Hair actives – overview booklet

All about hair 04

How is hair structured? 04 How does hair grow? 06 Why does hair need care and protection? 08

Active ingredients for hair 10

Protection and reinforcement with the cationic delivery system 10 Delay of aging and hair loss 12 Full protection of hair and scalp 14 Moisturizing effect 16 Added value 17

In brief 18

Active ingredients according to product’s positioning 18 Active ingredients according to consumer benefit 19

Summary

Sebaceous gland

Hair shaftEpidErmis

dErmis

BulbDermal papilla

Matrix

Inner root sheath

Outer root sheath

Basement membrane

05 — All about hair

How is hair structured?

Hair actually consists of two distinct structures:• the part beneath the skin, called follicle• the visible hair shaft (above the skin surface).

In the lower part of the hair bulb which contains the matrix and the papilla, new cells are continuously produced. As they grow and develop, they steadily push the previously formed cells upwards. When the cells reach the upper part of the bulb they begin to change, and they arrange themselves into several cylindrical layers, one inside the other. • The inner three layers of cells become the

actual hair.• The outer three layers become the lining

of the hair follicle, the inner root sheath.

The outer root sheath is continuous with the epidermis.

The hair bulb also contains melanocytes which produce the melanin pigments that color the hair as well as stem cells.

Facts and figures

Average number of hair per head:

100‘000 – 150‘000

Diameter: 10 – 100 µm

Average hair growth per month:

1 cm

Number of hair lost per day:

50 – 100

Composition of dry hair:

95 % proteins

Anagen phase: 90 % of hair

Catagen phase

Telogen phase

10 % of hair

07 — All about hair

How does hair grow?

Hair growth is a cyclic and asynchronous process. This cycle is made up of 3 phases (anagen, catagen and telogen) which occur simultaneously; each hair passes through the phases independent of the neighboring hairs.

• During the anagen (growing) phase which lasts 3 years on average, protein material (keratin) is produced in the hair bulb.

• Then the hair moves to the regression (catagen) stage for about 3 weeks. During this transition period, the hair bulb separates from the dermal papilla, and the hair follicle shrinks and migrates towards the scalp surface.

• At the end of the telogen (resting) phase which lasts 3 months on average, the hair follicle re- enters the anagen phase: the dermal papilla and the base of the follicle join together again and a new hair begins to form. If the old hair has not already been shed, the new hair pushes the old one out and the growth cycle starts all over again.

In people with healthy hair, about 90 % of the hair is in the anagen phase and the other 10 % are either in the catagen or telogen ones.

Environmental stress Drastic procedures Blow-drying and oxidative stress Shampoos and styling products Mechanical stress

Scalp

Hair fibre

Water Oil

09 — All about hair

Why does hair need care and protection?

Hair strands are covered with scales overlapping like roof tiles, oriented from root to tip and forming the hair cuticle. Despite the hydrophobicity of the surface of the cuticle due to its lipid content, the hair absorbs moisture. This contradictory behavior known as the “hair paradox” is due to the fact that the interior of the fiber contains hydrophilic amino acid residues. Hair in good condition can absorb more than 30 % of its own weight of water.

Hair is constantly exposed to stress factors which can dehydrate and damage it:• Environmental stress factors (UV irradiation, wind,

salt water) make hair rough, dry and prone to breakage.

• Drastic procedures, such as decoloration and perming, lead to an irreversible loss of the original form and strength of hair.

• Blow-drying and oxidative stress lead to the formation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) which oxidize and degrade the proteins of the hair surface and thus affect the structure of the hair.

• Mechanical stress factors damage the cuticle leading to opening and removal of the scales as well as the formation of split ends.

• Shampoos and styling products tend to dehydrate and to dry both the scalp and the hair.

These factors make the hair more porous and so more sensitive, brittle, feeling rough and looking dull. Thus, hair structure needs to be reinforced, repaired and protected on a daily basis.

Active ingredients for hair — 10

Protection and reinforcement with the cationic delivery system

The cationic delivery system (CDS) transports lipophilic actives to the hair fiber without leaving an oily, sticky feeling. In the CDS, the actives can be encapsulated into liposomes or nanoemulsions containing stearylamine. Therefore, these vesicles are positively charged and adhere to the negatively charged hair surface even in a rinse-off application.

Additional benefits

Preservative-free

Emulsifier-free

Suitable for rinse-off products

Ideal for pump spray products

Advantages

Small vesicle size (50 – 200 nm)

offering a high bioavailability

Additional moisturizing effect based

on lecithin forming the vesicles

Very high targeted delivery of oil-

and water-soluble actives to the

hair surface based on the cationic

structure (100-fold increase compared

to the uncharged vesicle)Electrostatic attraction

Hair

Stearylamine

Encapsulated active

11 — Active ingredients for hair

Active ingredients based on the cationic delivery systemNano-Lipobelle UV-A/B

Solar radiation damages the skin but also the hair leading to:• bleaching of hair’s natural color, fading of

color-treated hair• a rough straw-like texture due to the erosion

of the cuticle• a loss of elastic strength and hair luster.

Based on UVA and UVB filters encapsulated in the CDS, Nano-Lipobelle UV-A/B:• protects both hair and scalp on a long-term basis• preserves the hair’s quality by its film forming

property.

D-Panthenol works as a nutrient for the hair. This vitamin B5 precursor which can penetrate into the scalp, the hair cortex and to the hair roots: • moisturizes, repairs and strengthens

the hair shaft • reduces the formation of split-ends • improves hair manageability • gives shine.

Lipobelle S100/PA, based on D-panthenol encapsulated in the CDS:• strengthens the hair from inside• preserves the beauty of hair.

Lipobelle S100/PA

Ideal for colored hair but also natural blond hair prone to photo-yellowing

Ideal for treated hair (colored, decolored, permed, straightened) but also long hair

12

Sebaceous gland

Hair shaft

EpidErmis

dErmis

BulbDermal papilla

Lineages derived from bulge stem cells

Matrix

Inner root sheath

Outer root sheath

Hair bulge stem cell

13 — Active ingredients for hair

Delay of aging and hair lossPhytoCellTec™ Malus Domestica

The hair follicle contains stem cells located in the hair bulge and in the bulb (lower part of the hair follicle) which assure its renewal and the mainte-nance of its color (pigmentation).

Based on plant stem cells, PhytoCellTec™ Malus Domestica maintains the vitality of skin stem cells and also delays the senescence of the hair follicle. Thus, it:• maintains the regenerating power of the hair• increases the longevity of the hair follicle• prolongs the anagen phase (hair’s growing

phase).

Present in each cell, mitochondria supply energy through respiration to the cells and regulate their metabolism. As both an antioxidant and an electron carrier, co-enzyme Q10 is a key ingredient of mitochondria.

The co-enzyme Q10 concentration in the cell declines with age. This leads to a reduced “energy supply” to the cells as well as the formation of ROS and thus to a reduced protection of cells against oxidative stress and free radicals.

Nano-Lipobelle DN CoQ10 oA which contains 7% of co-enzyme Q10 as well as vitamins C and E:• stimulates the proliferation of the dermal

papilla cell.• accelerates the growth of hair follicles which

are in the early anagen phase and thus, whose energy needs are especially high.

Thus, Nano-Lipobelle DN CoQ10 oA vitalizes the hair from the roots and prevents hair loss.

Nano-Lipobelle DN CoQ10 oA

14

damage of hair protein

Hair

Water droplet

O2*O2

physical stress Combing, brushing, heating, drying, UV irradiation

Chemical stress Perming, relaxing, coloring

ROS

15 — Active ingredients for hair

Full protection of hair and scalpGSP-T

Hair is constantly exposed to different physical and chemical stress factors which damage it. Besides, hair is specially sensitive to oxidation when it is wet. Hair therefore needs protection on a daily basis to remain healthy and brilliant.

GSP-T is a powerful patented antioxidant complex for hair protection. It combines water-soluble Swiss grape seed procyanidins and oil-soluble natural tocopherol.

• GSP-T offers a broad protection to all hair types and styles: it protects hair against both physical and chemical stress factors.

• It prevents color fading of dyed hair. • Besides, it soothes the scalp.

Ideal to protect hair and scalp during blow-

drying, outdoor activities and hair treatments

Additional benefits

Protecting effect in both leave-on

and rinse-off products

Tested at different use levels:

1 % – 1.5 % and 2.5 %

Preservative-free

Active ingredients for hair — 16

Moisturizing effectAquaCacteen Poly-Fructol

Additional benefits

Moisturizing effect in rinse-off

products tested at 0.1 % – 0.5 %

and 2 %

Available in a preservative-free

and ECOCERT certified version***

Thanks to its high content of water-binding compounds, AquaCacteen, a cactus extract, hydrates the skin even when used at low levels in rinse-off applications. Besides, AquaCacteen can block the release of stress mediators from nerve cells which cause inflammation and pain. Thanks to piscidic acid, an excellent inhibitor of ROS, AquaCacteen protects the skin against UV-induced damage.

After 1 week of daily use in a rinsed product: + 12.9 % of hydration*

Poly-Fructol is a polymer of fructose naturally present in fruits and vegetables. Encapsulated in liposomes, it brings immediate hydration.

30 minutes after a single use of a rinsed product: + 9 % of hydration**

*with 2 % AquaCacteen, compared to the placebo

**with 5 % Poly-Fructol, compared to the placebo

***material certified by Ecocert Greenlife according

to the Ecocert Standard for Natural and Organic

Cosmetics available at www.ecocert.com/cosmetics

Additional benefits

Moisturizing effect in rinse-off

products tested at 0.1 % and 5 %

Treatments such as decolor-ing, coloring, perming and straightening dehydrate the hair. Besides, these types of treatments usually contain irritant compounds and /or destabilize the natural cuta-neous pH leading to redness and irritation. Thus, the hydration of both hair and scalp needs to be preserved and maintained.

17 — Active ingredients for hair

DetoxophaneAdded valueLipobelle Glacier Lipobelle Royal NanoCacao O

Lipobelle Glacier with Swiss glacier water, protects keratino-cytes against heat stress, pre-venting damage to the scalp induced by heat during blow-drying.

NanoCacao O is a lipophilic fraction of cocoa beans. Cocoa beans contain several “feel-good“ chemicals including anandamide. Also naturally produced in our brain, this neurotransmitter induces euphoria and reduces pain sensation. NanoCacao O can thus improve the sense of well-being as well as reduce unpleasant sensations.

Based on Swiss cress sprouts, Detoxophane stimulates the cellular detoxification system and neutralizes oxidants and free radicals. It can thus protect the scalp from environmental stress.

Based on Royal Jelly encapsu-lated in liposomes, Lipobelle Royal has revitalizing and energizing properties.

18

Active ingredients according to product’s positioningmarketing Value

science

scalp/hair follicleBiological activity

Hair fibrephysical/chemical activity

GSP-T

NanoCacao O

Poly-Fructol

AquaCacteen

Lipobelle S100/PA

Lipobelle Royal

Nano-Lipobelle UV-A/B

PhytoCellTecTM Malus Domestica

Lipobelle Glacier

Nano-Lipobelle DN CoQ10 oA

Detoxophane

19 — In brief

Active ingredients according to consumer benefit

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Hair

Protection against environmental stress (UV, pollution)

Protection against daily stress from washing and styling

Heat protection

Prevention of color fading

Moisture balance

Repair, revitalization

Prevention of hair loss

Scalp

Protection, antioxidant

Hydration

Anti-irritation

Hair follicle

Anti-aging

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The information contained in this publication is provided in good faith and is based on our current knowledge. No legally binding promise or warranty regarding the suitability of our products for any specific use is made. Claim ideas are offered solely for your consideration, investigation and verification. Mibelle Biochemistry will not assume any expressed or implied liability in connection with any use of this information.

GSP-T For HairPowerful protection for all hair types and styles

Pros_GSP-T-Hair_u_Pros_GSP-T-Hair 02.09.11 16:50 Seite 1

AquaCacteenSoothes and hydrates women’s and men’s skin

Pros_AquaCacteen_u_AquaCacteen_Pros_u 25.05.11 08:58 Seite 1

PhytoCellTec™ Malus DomesticaPlant stem cells for skin stem cell protection

Pros_PCTec-Malus_u_PCTec_Pros_u 02.09.11 16:47 Seite 1

NanoCacao Deep comfort and relaxation

Lipobelle Glacier24h refreshing hydrationwith Swiss glacier water

Pros_LipobelleGlacier_u_LipobelleGlacier 11.10.10 16:57 Seite 1

For more information Ask for the detailed brochures

Page 17

NanoCacao

Page 17

Lipobelle Glacier

Page 13

PhytoCellTec™

Malus Domestica

Page 16

AquaCacteen

Page 15

GSP-T For Hair

DetoxophaneActivating the skin’s detoxification system

Pros_Detoxophane_u.qxp:Detoxophane_Pros_u 19.2.2010 12:00 Uhr Seite 1

Page 17

Detoxophane