mga parts catalogue

MGA 1500 - 1600 & MKIIRESTORATION PARTS & ACCESSORIES • EFFECTIVE 4/10/00 • MGA-21

MG

A

LOCAL & OVERSEAS: 805-681-3400FAX: 805-692-2525 www.mossmotors.com

POWER UNIT External Engine 6-7Internal Engine 8-9Cylinder Head 10-11

MANIFOLDS Inlet and Exhaust Manifolds 12& EXHAUST Air Cleaners 12

Exhaust System 12

COOLING SYSTEM Radiators, Fan and Pump 13

ENGINE CONTROL Accelerator Pedals, Choke Control 13

FUEL SYSTEM Carburetors 14-17Fuel Pump, Fuel Tank, Fuel Pipes, Sender Units 18

CLUTCH Clutch Cover, Clutch Plate, Bearings, Hydraulics 19

GEARBOX External & Internal Components 20, 21

FRONT SUSPENSION Suspension Joints, Springs, 22Shock Absorbers, Stub Axles 22

STEERING Steering Wheel, Column, Rack & Pinion Ass’ys, 23

REAR AXLE Crown Wheel, Bearings, Axle Shafts, Seals 24

REAR SUSPENSION Springs, Shock Absorbers, Rubber Components 25

PROPSHAFT ‘U’ Joints, Shaft Components 25

ROAD WHEELS Wheels, Knock-Off’s, Wheel Tools 25

BRAKES Brake Controls, Hydraulics 26Brake Drums, pads, shoes and Calipers. 27Brake Pipes 28

CHASSIS Chassis, Chassis Components 29

BODY PANELS & Bumper, front 30FITTINGS Grilles 30

Body Fittings, front 31Body Fittings, rear 32-33Body Panels 34-35Windscreen and Windscreen Fittings 36Doors and Door Fittings 36

COUPE Special fittings 37

ELECTRICAL Ignition Components 38Heater 39Wipers & Washers 39Headlamps 40Lamps, general 40, 41Electrical Fittings and Components. 42-43Battery, Wiring Harnesses 43Starter and Dynamo 43

FASCIA PANEL Fascia, Gauges and Switches. 44-45

TWIN CAM Parts Unique to Twin Cam & DeLuxe Models 46

TRIM Cockpit Fittings 47Tops and Tonneau Covers 48, 49Carpet and Trim Kits 50Seat Kits and Components 51

MGA Parts Catalog© Copyright Moss Motors, Ltd. October, 1985

Edition #MGA-21, April, 2000Printed in the USA

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrievalsystem, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, photocopying, recording,or otherwise without the prior written permission of Moss Motors, Ltd.

ContentsAAccelerator Cable . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13Air Filters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12Air Vent Grille . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31Anti Sway Bar Kit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22

BBadges, front . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30-31Badges, rear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32Battery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43Battery Bracket Assembly . . . . . . . .29, 43Battery Cables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43Battery Cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34Battery Fittings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43Bearing Set, camshaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8Bearing Set, con rod . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8Bearing Set, main . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8Bearing, front axle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22Bearing, rear axle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24Body Panels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34-35Body Rubber Sets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32Brake Adjuster . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27Brake Caliper Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . .27Brake Caliper Pistons . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27Brake Disc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27Brake Drum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27Brake Hoses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28Brake Master Cylinder . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26Brake Master Cylinder Fittings . . . . . . .26Brake Master Cylinder Repair Kit . . . . . .26Brake Pad Set . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27Brake Pipes, Sets & Fittings . . . . . . . . .28Brake Back Plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27Brake Shoes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27Brake Wheel Cylinder . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27Brake Wheel Cylinder Repair Kit . . . . . .27Bulb, headlamp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40Bulb, instrument . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44Bulb, tail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40-41Bumper, front . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30Bumper Fittings, front . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30Bumper, rear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32Bumper Fittings, rear . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32Bushes, front suspension . . . . . . . . . . .22Bushes, rear suspension . . . . . . . . . . . .25CCamshaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8Camshaft Bearings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8Camshaft Lifter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8Carburetor Choke Adjustment . . . . . . . .15Carburetor Complete Rebuild . . . . . . . .15

Carburetors, pushrod engines . . . . .14-15Carburetors, Twin Cam . . . . . . . . . .16-17Carpet Kits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50Chassis Condition . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29Chassis Numbers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5Choke Cable . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44Clutch Alignment Tool . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19Clutch Cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19Clutch Kit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19Clutch Master Cylinder . . . . . . . . . . . . .19Clutch Pipes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19Clutch Plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19Clutch Problems: Sorting Out . . . . . . . .19Clutch Release Bearing . . . . . . . . . . . . .19Clutch Slave Cylinder . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19Clutch Slave Cylinder Repair Kit . . . . . .19Cockpit Fittings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .47Cockpit Trim Kits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50-51Condenser . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38Connecting Rods . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8Connectors, electrical . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43Cooling System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13Coupe Parts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37Crankshaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8Crown Wheel and Pinion . . . . . . . . . . . .24Cylinder Head Inspection . . . . . . . . . . .10Cylinder Heads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11Cylinder Liners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8

DDash Knob Set . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44Dash, under dash pad set . . . . . . . . . . .47Dashboard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44Dashboard Trimming . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44Defroster Tubes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39Defroster Vents . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31Differential . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24Dipstick, engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6Dipstick, gearbox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20Distributor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38Distributor Cap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38Distributor Drive . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8, 38Door Fittings, roadster . . . . . . . . . . . . .36Door Handle, coupe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37Door Hinges . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36Door Latch, roadster . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36Door Locks, coupe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37Door Pillars . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34Door Seal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .47Door Skins . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34Door Strikers, coupe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37Driveshaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25

MGA Restoration Parts Catalog

1-800-667-7872MOSS MOTORS, LTD.TOLL-FREE ORDERS

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Contents

By special licensing agreement with RoverCars, P.L.C., (formerly British Leyland)Moss Motors, Ltd., is a fully authorizedmanufacturer and distributor of Britishsports car spares. With official supportfrom the original manufacturer, we are ableto produce a wide range of reproductionspares which meet or exceed the originalfactory standard of quality. In conjunctionwith British Motor Heritage, Ltd. (a divi-sion of Rover Cars, P.L.C.), Moss Motorsis dedicated to the preservation andrestoration of British sports cars. The British Motor Heritage, Ltd., MG andAustin-Healey trademarks, as well as someexploded view artwork included in thispublication, are the property of RoverCars, P.L.C., and are reproduced under li-censing agreement by Moss Motors, Ltd.

BRITISH MOTORHERITAGE APPROVED

EElectrical Trouble Shooting . . . . . . . . . .45Engine Controls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13Engine Lock Tab Set . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9Engine Mountings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6Engine Numbers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5Engine Tech Tips . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9Exhaust Front Pipe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12Exhaust Intermediate Pipe . . . . . . . . . .12Exhaust Mountings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12Exhaust System, stainless . . . . . . . . . . .12

FFan Belt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13Fan Belt, over tightening . . . . . . . . . . . .13Flasher Unit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42Float Needle & Seats, carb. . . . . . . . . . .14Floorboards . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29Flywheel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8Fuel Gauge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44Fuel Pipes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18Fuel Pump Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18Fuel Pump Mounting Kit . . . . . . . . . . . .18Fuel Pump Problems . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18Fuel Sender Unit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18Fuel Tank . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18Fuse Box . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42Fuses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42

GGasket Set, cylinder head . . . . . . . . .7, 11Gasket Set, engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7Gasket, manifold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11,12Gear Lever . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21Gear Lever Boot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21Gear Lever Knob . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21Gear, speedo drive . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21Gearbox Components . . . . . . . . . . .20-21Gearbox Gasket Set . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20Gearbox Mountings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21Gearbox Technical Tips . . . . . . . . . . . . .21Generator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43Generator Components . . . . . . . . . . . . .43Generator Fan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43Generator Polarization . . . . . . . . . . . . .42Generator Pulley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43Grille . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30Grille Fittings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30Grille, air vent . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31

HHalfshaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24Handbrake . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26Handbrake Cable . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26Handbrake Components . . . . . . . . . . . .26Headlamp Assemblies . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40Headlamp Rim . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40Headlamp, tripod type . . . . . . . . . . . . .40Headliner Kit, coupe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37Heat Shield, carb. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12Heater Components . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39Heater Control Cables . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39Heater Hoses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39Heater Switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39Hinge, hood . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31Hinge, trunk lid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32Horn and Horn Fittings . . . . . . . . . . . . .42Hub Cap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25Hub, front . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22Hub, rear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24

IIdentification Plates . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .53Ignition Coil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38Ignition Coil Reversed Polarity . . . . . . .38Ignition points . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38Installing the Cylinder Head . . . . . . . . .10

JJack . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25Jet Assembly, carb. . . . . . . . . . . . . .14,17

KKnock Off Hammer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25Knock Offs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25

LLamp Problems . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41Lamp, Dashboard . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42,44Lamp, Indicator Assembly . . . . . . . .42,44Lamp, Number Plate Assembly . . . . . . .41Lamp, Side Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40Lamp, Tail Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40Lamps, accessory . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41Lamps, driving . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41Lamps, fog . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41Logos and Trademarks . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4Luggage Racks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32

MMain Bearing Caps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8Main Bearing Clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . .9Manifold, exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12Manifold, inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12MGA Painting Sub-Assemblies . . . . . . .33MGA, Identifying . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33Mirror, dash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31Mirrors, fender . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31Mountings, engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6Muffler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12

NNeedles, carb. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14,17Number Plate Mount . . . . . . . . . . . .30, 32

OOil Cooler Kits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6Oil Filter Ass’y. & Components . . . . . . . .7Oil Filter Conversion Kit . . . . . . . . . . . . .7Oil Pressure & Water Temp. Gauge . . . .44Oil Pressure Gauge Pipe . . . . . . . . . . . .44Oil Pressure Relief Valve . . . . . . . . . . . . .6Oil Pressure Spring/Valve Assembly . . . .9Oil Pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8Oil Radiator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6Oil Seals, rear axle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24Overrider, front . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30Overrider, rear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32

PPaint Color Codes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36Paints . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33, 36Panel Kits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .51Pillar, ‘A’ Post . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34Pillar, ‘B’ Post . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34Piston, Brake Caliper . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27Piston Ring Sets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8Piston Sets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8Production Data . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5Prop Rod, hood . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31Prop Rod, trunk lid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32Pulley, Crankshaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6Pushrod . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8

RRadiator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13Radiator Cap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13Radiator Hoses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13Radio Blanking Plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44Rear Axle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24Rear Axle Halfshafts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24Relay, turn signal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42Release Bearing, clutch . . . . . . . . . . . . .19Ring Gear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8Rocker Arm Components . . . . . . . . . . .11Rocker Panels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35Rocker Shaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11Rotor, ignition . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38SSafety Catch, hood . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31Seat Components . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48Seat Kits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .51Sending Unit, fuel tank . . . . . . . . . . . . .18Serial Numbers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5

Shock Absorber, front . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22Shock Absorber, rear . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25Side Covers, engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6Side Curtain Sets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .49Side Curtain Stowage Bags . . . . . . . . . .49Sill Assemblies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35Spark Plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38Speedometer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44Speedometer Cable . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44Splash Plates . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34Spoke Wrench . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25Spokes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25Spring, front, coil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22Spring, rear, leaf . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25Sprocket, camshaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8Sprocket, crankshaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8Starter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43Starter Cable . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42, 44Starter Components . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43Starting Handle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25Steering Bushes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22Steering Rack Gaiters . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23Steering Rack . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23Steering Spring Cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23Steering Wheel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23Sun visors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37Suspension Kits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22,25Suspension Rebuild: Front . . . . . . . . . .23Switch Knobs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42Switches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42Swivel Pin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22

TTachometer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44Tachometer Cable . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44Tappet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8Tappet Cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6Thermostat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11, 13Thermostat Cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11, 13Thrust Washer, engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8Thrust Washer, rear axle . . . . . . . . . . . .24Tie Rod Ends . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23Timing Chain . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8Timing Chain Tensioner . . . . . . . . . . . . .8Tonneau Covers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48Tonneau Cover Fittings . . . . . . . . . . . . .48Tools, wheel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25Top and Top Fittings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48Tire Cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50Twin Cam Parts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46

UU-Joint, driveshaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25Upholstery Kits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50-51

VVacuum Advance Unit . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38Valance, front . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34Valve Cotter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11Valve Covers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11Valve Guide Installation . . . . . . . . . . . .10Valve Guides . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11Valve, inlet & exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11Valves, stellite-faced . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11

WWasher Bottle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39Washer Foot Valve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39Washer Jet Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39Water Pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13Water Pump Pulley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13Water Temp. & Oil Pressure Gauge . . . .44Wheel Cover, spare . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50Wheel Cylinder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27Wheel Cylinder Repair Kit . . . . . . . . . . .27Wheel Nut, Knock Off type . . . . . . .22, 25Wheel Spinners (wire wheels) . . . . .22, 25Wheels, wire . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25Wheels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25

Window Fittings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36-37Windows, coupe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37Windshield: Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . .36Windshield . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36-37Wiper Arm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39Wiper Blade . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39Wiper Motor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39Wiring Harnesses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43Wishbones . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22

MG

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MGA Engine Serial Number DataUse the following examples to de-code your engine serial number. Note: Early 1500 engineshad numbers prefixed by BP15GB.Example: 15 GB/U/H 123456

Serial Number

H-High CompressionL-Low Compression

U-Center Gearshift

B-1500 SeriesA-1600 SeriesC-1622 Series

G-MG

15-1500 cc16-1600 cc

5

MGA Production DataModel Production Period Special/Number MadeMGA 1500 August 1955 to May 1959 First MGA 10,101Twin Cam April 1958 to April 1960 First Twin Cam 501MGA 1600 May 1959 to April 1961 First 1600 68,851MGA 1600 MKII April 1961 to June 1962 First MKII 100,352

Last MGA 109,070

The above dates are dates of production, not model year dates. Model year productionbegan around October of the previous year for the U.S. market, and in November for thehome market. Accurate figures are not available for the 1600 MKII Deluxe, which used the1622 cc engine in the Twin Cam chassis. They were assembled and numbered along withthe regular production. The actual series production number of your MGA can bedetermined by subtracting 10,101 from your car's chassis number. For example, carnumber 24,514 is actually number 14,413. Coupe production was: 1500, 6,272; 1600,2,771; MkII, 521; Twin Cam, 323; for a total of 9,887.

Chassis Numbers-1500 Chassis numbers for MGA 1500s are loaded with coded information about the car. For example, HDA43/10101 (the chassis number of the very first MGA 1500) tells us that the car is anMGA 2-seater, painted in black cellulose, for the North American market, and is MGA #10101. Use the following chart to decode your chassis number. (Acrylic lacquer is the modernequivalent of cellulose.) Not all listed colors and paint types listed were used on the MGA. Paint formula codes can be found on page 34.

Example: H D A 4 3 10101MGA 2 Seats Black N. America Cellulose Car Number

1st Letter (Car Type) 2nd Letter (Body Style) 3rd Letter (Exterior Paint Color) 1st Number (Market) 2nd Number (Paint Type)H-MGA A-Saloon 4 door A-Black J-Dark Grey 1-RHD Home 1-SyntheticJ-MG 1 1/4 litre B-Saloon 2 door B-Light Grey K-Light Red 2-RHD Export 2-SynobelK-Magnette C-Tourer C-Dark Red L-Light Blue 3-LHD 3-Cellulose

D-2 seater D-Dark Blue P-Ivory 4-North America 4-MetallicE-Mid Green R-White 5-CKD/RHD* 5-PrimedF-Beige S-Mid-Grey 6-CKD/LHD* 6-Cellulosed Body/Synthetic G-Brown T-Light Green WingsH-CKD finish (primer) U-Dark Green *Note: Car shipped unassembled and unpainted.

Chassis Numbers-1600-1600 MKII1600 and 1600 MKIIs did not provide as much information in their chassis numbers.For example, GHNL2103779 stands for: G H N L 2 103779

MGA 1400-1999 cc 2 seat tourer LHD 1600 MKII Car Number

1st Letter (Car Type) 2nd Letter (Cubic Capacity) 3rd Letter (Body Type) 4th Letter* (Specification) 5th Prefix* (Model Series)G-MGA H-1400 to 1999 cc N-2 seat Tourer L-LHD 2-1600 MKII

D-Coupe (None for RHD) (None for 1600)*For LHD MKII, 4th and 5th positions are reversed from what MG published as theoretically correct.

The Body Num-ber is stampedon a metal plateon the bulkheadbetween the righthand hood hingeand the fuseblock.

The GearboxNumber isstamped on topof the gearboxcase next to thedipstick.

The Rear AxleNumber isstamped on thefront side of theleft hand axletube.

Location of Serial Numbers

The Engine Num-ber is stampedon a metal plateon the right handside of the en-gine block...

...or is stampedon a metal plateon the rear of theengine behind thecylinder block.

The ChassisNumber (carnumber) isstamped on theidentificationplate on the lefthand of the fire-wall shelf.

Production Data


No. Part Price Description Application Qty.No. (each) Req.

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External Engine


1 220-540 $12.50 ENGINE PAINT, correct MG red A/R2 328-230 $0.80 CORE PLUG 43 328-160 $6.10 PLUG, oil gallery 44 328-170 NA PLUG, crankcase oil hole 25 328-180 $5.75 PLUG, transverse oil hole 16 324-626 $0.45 WASHER, for plug #5 17 328-190 $1.70 PLUG, below oil relief valve 28 328-200 $3.20 PLUG, oil filter boss 110 328-200 $3.20 PLUG, chain tensioner oil feed 113 296-360 $0.95 CORK SEAL, main bearing cap 214 328-940 $4.25 STUD, cylinder head, long, 61/4" 415 328-950 $3.35 STUD, cylinder head, short, 41/2" 716 310-280 $0.95 NUT, cylinder head 1117 324-435 $0.35 WASHER, cylinder head 1118 325-080 NA PIN, gearbox plate block 219 460-015 $4.95 UNION, oil gauge pipe 120 324-626 $0.45 WASHER, oil gauge union 121 470-240 $17.50 TAP, water drain 122 324-670 $0.50 WASHER, drain tap 125 451-315 NA DIPSTICK, straight 1500 & 1600 to (e)16GA/H9648 1

451-350 $21.95 DIPSTICK, "bent" from (e)16GA/H9649 126 460-030 $14.50 TUBE, dipstick in block 127 460-040 $2.80 DUST CAP, dipstick 128 460-050 $3.45 COVER, tappet inspection, rear 129 460-060 NA COVER, tappet inspection, front 1

Note: Some early cars used a straight breather pipe (#451-040) which was used with adifferent front inspection cover. As these early covers are no longer available, we suggestusing cover #460-060 and breather pipe #451-050.

30 296-370 $1.15 GASKET, tappet cover 231 322-440 $0.85 BOLT, tappet cover 235 324-610 $0.20 WASHER, tappet cover bolt 237 451-040 NA BREATHER PIPE, w/ mounting clip to (e)GB35808 1

451-050 $18.95 BREATHER PIPE, w/ mounting clip from (e)GB35809 1

38 460-080 NA PLATE, blanking 139 460-630 $0.90 GASKET, blanking plate to (e)GB51767 1

41 460-155 $5.95 VALVE, oil pressure release 142 329-210 $1.45 SPRING, release valve 143 460-870 $1.80 CAP NUT, release valve 144 324-650 $0.30 WASHER, cap nut 245 460-370 NA OIL PAN 146 296-330 $2.70 GASKET, oil pan 147 328-280 $3.80 PLUG, oil pan 148 324-626 $0.45 WASHER, drain plug 152 322-210 $0.20 BOLT, oil pan to block 19

53 324-020 $0.15 WASHER, oil pan bolt 1955 460-380 NA PLATE, front engine mounting 156 296-000 $1.70 GASKET, front plate 157 322-040 $0.50 BOLT, front plate qty. reduced at (e)GB259 5/358 460-170 $15.95 BRACKET, R/H engine mount 159 460-180 $15.95 BRACKET, L/H engine mount 160 413-010 $7.95 MOUNT, R/H 1

413-030 $16.95 MOUNT, R/H Twin Cam & MKII Deluxe 161 413-020 $7.95 MOUNT, L/H all models 162 NA PLATE, gearbox to engine all 1500 w/ (e)GB prefix 1

460-390 NA PLATE, gearbox to engine from 1500 (e)GD101 163 297-500 $1.65 GASKET, gearbox plate 164 322-590 $0.50 BOLT, gearbox plate 8

68 235-800* NA OIL COOLER KIT, original type 169 435-300 $39.95 HOSE factory option thru 270 235-925 $99.95 OIL RADIATOR (13-row) 1600 MKII to (c)102736 171 435-590 $5.60 UNION (std. equip. thereafter) 172 324-800 $0.55 WASHER 1*After-market oil cooler kit and replacement oil cooler components are shown in the BritishAccessories Catalog at the front of this publication.

235-920 $127.95 OIL COOLER KIT, accessory type 1435-580 $20.95 OIL HOSE 2235-925 $99.95 OIL RADIATOR (13-row) 1235-995 $119.95 OIL RADIATOR, 16-row heavy-duty 1

75 460-310 NA BRACKET, generator, mounting 176 322-040 $0.50 BOLT 277 365-730 $0.20 LOCK WASHER 278 460-320 $9.95 PILLAR, adjusting link 179 324-040 $0.15 LOCK WASHER 180 310-050 $0.45 NUT 181 324-580 $0.10 WASHER 182 324-040 $0.15 LOCK WASHER 183 310-240 $0.60 NUT 184 460-330 $8.55 LINK, generator adjusting 185 365-730 $0.20 LOCK WASHER 186 322-510 $0.20 BOLT 187 321-598 $0.50 BOLT AND NUT SET 188 325-245 $0.40 DRIVE RIVET, engine number plate 290 * NA COVER, timing chain to 1500 (e)GB2581 1

460-350 NA COVER, timing chain from 1500 (e)GB259 to1622 (e)GC8262 1

455-380 NA COVER, timing chain from 1622 (e)GC8263 1


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External EngineNo. Part Price Description Application Qty.No. (each) Req.


91 121-500 $1.95 OIL SEAL, felt to 1622 (e)GC8262 1120-000 $3.90 OIL SEAL, rubber from 1622 (e)GC8263 1

92 296-510* $2.85 GASKET to 1500 (e)GB258 1296-340 $2.50 GASKET from 1500 (e)GB259 on 1

*Note: These parts fit only the very early engines without timing chain tensioners.323-568 $5.60 HARDWARE SET, timing cover 1

93 322-210 $0.20 BOLT, timing cover, upper 394 322-230 $0.30 BOLT, timing cover, lower 295 324-765 $0.35 WASHER, timing cover bolt 596 322-040 $0.50 BOLT, cover & plate to block 497 460-360 $1.10 WASHER 4

To install a new felt timing cover seal (#121-500), remove the old seal and any gasketcompound from the groove. Wash the cover in solvent. Soak the new seal in oil andcarefully push it into the groove. Make sure that it is straight and not caught on thesharp edge of the cover. When seated, push the crank pulley through the cover and giveit a turn or two to seat the seal. Prepare the cover gasket with a small amount of sealerand stick it to the cover or end plate. Push the pulley onto the crank and bolt up thecover. This method insures that the pulley is centralized, keeping oil seepage at aminimum. Note: Early and late covers may be interchanged but a late rubber sealcannot be fitted to an early cover.

110 332-070 $8.40 CABLE, ground engine to frame 1111 460-450 $87.95 PULLEY, crankshaft 1112 460-460 $18.95 NUT, crank dog 1113 460-470 $0.95 WASHER, lock tab 1114 460-658 NA TACH. DRIVE ASS'Y. 1115 460-660 NA PINION, tach drive 1116 460-690 $1.65 GASKET 1117 460-665 $56.95 HOUSING, tach drive pinion 1118 460-680 NA RING 1119 460-670 $6.95 SEAL 1

Gasket Sets296-420 $25.95 † GASKET SET, head set 1296-430 $22.95 ‡ GASKET SET, engine, less head set 1

† Head Set, #296-420, includes cylinder head, manifold, carb./heat shield, air filter, rockercover, heater outlet, water outlet, thermostat gaskets, and valve stem seals.

‡ Engine Set, #296-430, includes main bearing cap seals, gaskets for front and rear engineplates, timing cover, oil pump, oil strainer, chain tensioner, oil sump, water pump, oil pipeadaptor, tappet covers, crank case blanking plate, sump drain plug, oil filter and drain tap.(Late 1622 rubber oil seal not included.)The two gasket sets include all gaskets required for the MGA engine.

Main bearing caps are a tight fit and care must be taken when removing them. In lieuof a ‘factory’ cap puller, insert a bolt in the threaded hole in the cap and pull on it witha slide hammer. Do not use screwdrivers or chisels to separate the caps as theseinappropriate tools will damage the mating surfaces. Caps must fit with no clearance.If gouged, oil will pass through the mating surface and the bearing will have too muchrunning clearance. When reinstalling main caps hold the bearing shell against thesaddle and tap the cap home gently with a soft-face hammer. Use assembly lube toprotect the bearing until oil reaches it.

As part of a rebuild, remove the core plugs and have the block hot tanked. If you arenot sure that all the oil passages have been rinsed free of scale and casting sand,pressure wash the block with hot water and detergent. Follow with a hot water rinseand spray aerosol carburetor cleaner through the oil ways.

Warning: Hot-tanking will dissolve the aluminium engine number plate. MGA enginenumbers are back-stamped onto a plain aluminum plate affixed with two steel driverivets, our #325-245. When rebuilding an engine, carefully remove the plate byuntwisting the drive rivets with a pair of vice grip pliers, as the plate would otherwisedissolve in the caustic solution. This extra effort will allow you to easily re-install theplate, preserving the history and originality of your MGA.

Oil Filter Components125 NA PIPE ASS’Y., filter to block 1500 to (e)GB26932 1

460-830 NA PIPE ASS’Y., filter to block from 1500 (e)GB26933thru 1622 MKII 1

126 460-840 $6.75 BANJO BOLT 1127 324-800 $0.55 WASHER, copper, inner 1127a 324-800 $0.55 WASHER, copper, outer 1128 NA ADAPTOR 1500 to (e)GB11297 1

460-820 $22.95 ADAPTOR from 1500 (e)GB11298thru 1622 MKII 1

129 324-800 $0.55 WASHER, copper 1132 * NA OIL FILTER ASS’Y., early Tecalemit 1500 to (e)GB26932 1

133 * NA OIL FILTER ASS’Y., late Tecalemit alternatives from 1134 * NA OIL FILTER ASS’Y., Purolator 1500 (e)GB26933 thru

1622 MKII 1*Note: Assemblies interchange, provided the correct pipe (illus. 125) is used.

136 435-335 $1.50 SEALING RING all 1/2137 NA SEALING RING, cannister early Tecalemit 1138 NA HEAD ASS’Y. early Tecalemit 1139 460-900 NA HEAD ASS’Y. late Tecalemit 1140 460-850 NA HEAD ASS’Y. Purolator 1142 435-350 $10.95 FILTER ELEMENT, felt all 1

435-355 $5.75 FILTER ELEMENT, paper alternative to felt 1143 NA CANNISTER ASS’Y. early Tecalemit 1144 435-328 NA CANNISTER ASS’Y. late Tecalemit 1145 435-338 NA CANNISTER ASS’Y. Purolator 1146 NA SPRING CLIP Tecalemit 1147 326-200 $0.75 SPRING CLIP Purolator 1

148 435-150 $5.65 PLATE 1150 435-560 $0.60 WASHER, felt all 1151 435-570 $0.60 WASHER, steel 1

153 329-230 $2.05 SPRING Tecalemit 1154 329-120 $1.85 SPRING Purolator 1155 NA CANNISTER early Tecalemit 1156 460-770 NA CANNISTER late Tecalemit 1157 435-327 NA CANNISTER Purolator 1158 460-790 $2.30 BOLT Tecalemit 1159 460-800 NA BOLT Purolator 1160 460-805 $0.70 SEAL Tecalemit 1162 460-815 $3.25 SEAL Purolator 1163 235-940† $31.95 SPIN-ON FILTER ADAPTOR 1164 235-880 $5.95 ELEMENT, spin-on adaptor 1†These Moss-designed full-pressure die cast adaptors look nearly identical to the factory aluminum filter heads, and, in fact, completely replace the original unit. The factory cannister design is prone to leakage due to failed seals and is always a hassle to clean up whenchanging filter elements.



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Internal Engine


1 451-520 $495.00 CRANKSHAFT, new 1500-1600 1451-560 NA CRANKSHAFT 1622 1

2 460-410 NA RESTRICTOR 43 330-160 $2.75 BUSHING, spigot 14 460-420 $19.95 CRANK SPROCKET 15 327-100 $0.95 KEY 26 433-815 $1.90 OIL THROWER, crankshaft 17 460-440 $1.20 SHIM, aligns sprocket heights A/R

10 425-050 $38.95 MAIN BEARING SET, standard 1425-100 $38.95 MAIN BEARING SET, .010" 1425-150 $38.95 MAIN BEARING SET, .020" 1500 - 1600 1425-200 $38.95 MAIN BEARING SET, .030" 1425-250 $38.95 MAIN BEARING SET, .040" 1

425-300 $29.95 MAIN BEARING SET, standard 1425-350 $29.95 MAIN BEARING SET, .010" 1425-400 $29.95 MAIN BEARING SET, .020" 1622 1425-450 $36.95 MAIN BEARING SET, .030" 1425-500 $36.95 MAIN BEARING SET, .040" 1

11 425-550 $7.65 THRUST WASHER SET, standard 1425-600 $7.65 THRUST WASHER SET, .005" 1425-650 $7.65 THRUST WASHER SET, .010" 1

12 460-480 NA CONNECTING ROD, #1 & 3 1500 - 1600 2460-500 $49.95 CONNECTING ROD, #1 & 3 1622 2460-490 NA CONNECTING ROD, #2 & 4 1500 - 1600 2460-510 $47.95 CONNECTING ROD, #2 & 4 1622 2

13 322-840 $8.20 BOLT, connecting rod cap 814 460-520 $1.95 LOCK PLATE, (see locktab set #82) 415 322-480 $2.60 BOLT, gudgeon pin 1500 - 1600 4

322-140 $2.15 BOLT, gudgeon pin 1622 416 365-730 $0.20 LOCK WASHER 4

17 425-700 $28.95 ROD BEARING SET, standard 1425-800 $28.95 ROD BEARING SET, .010" all except 1425-850 $28.95 ROD BEARING SET, .020" Twin Cam 1425-900 $28.95 ROD BEARING SET, .030" 1425-950 $28.95 ROD BEARING SET, .040" 1

18 420-418 $269.95 PISTON SET, standard 1420-428 NA PISTON SET, .010" 1420-438 $269.95 PISTON SET, .020" 1500 1420-448 $269.95 PISTON SET, .030" (8.3:1 CR) 1420-458 $269.95 PISTON SET, .040" 1420-468 $269.95 PISTON SET, .060" 1

420-518 $269.95 PISTON SET, standard 1420-528 NA PISTON SET, .010" 1420-538 $269.95 PISTON SET, .020" 1600 1420-548 $269.95 PISTON SET, .030" (8.3:1 CR) 1420-558 $269.95 PISTON SET, .040" 1420-568 $269.95 PISTON SET, .060" 1

420-618 $269.95 PISTON SET, standard 1420-628 NA PISTON SET, .010" 1622 1420-638 $269.95 PISTON SET, .020" (8.3:1 CR) 1420-648 $269.95 PISTON SET, .030" 1420-658 $269.95 PISTON SET, .040" 1

420-718 NA PISTON SET, standard 1420-748 NA PISTON SET, .030 1500 1420-768 NA PISTON SET, .060 (9:1 CR) 1

420-818 NA PISTON SET, standard 1420-848 NA PISTON SET, .030 1600 1420-868 NA PISTON SET, .060 (9:1 CR) 1

Note: Rings are included with pistons. 9:1 high compression ratio pistons are not recommended due to lower octane rating of available fuels.

When installing new pistons and/or rings, always check all ring end gaps by pushing aring about an inch into the bore and measuring the resulting gap with a feeler gauge.The proper running clearances are listed in your factory manual. Try to build yourengine as close as possible to these measurements.


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Internal EngineNo. Part Price Description Application Qty.No. (each) Req.


19 421-240 $51.50 RING SET, standard 1421-250 $51.50 RING SET, .020" 1421-260 $51.50 RING SET, .030" 1500, 4-ring 1421-270 $51.50 RING SET, .040" 1421-280 $51.50 RING SET, .060" 1

421-390 $57.50 RING SET, standard 1421-395 $57.50 RING SET, .020" 1421-400 $57.50 RING SET, .030" 1500, 5-ring 1421-410 $57.50 RING SET, .040" 1421-415 $57.50 RING SET, .060" 1



20 426-050* $34.95 CYLINDER SLEEVE 1500 4426-060* $39.95 CYLINDER SLEEVE 1600 4426-070* $33.95 CYLINDER SLEEVE 1622 4

*Note: These sleeves return worn or damaged cylinder bores to standard diameter. These must be fitted by a competent machine shop.

25 451-320 $224.95 CAMSHAFT 1222-270 $259.95 CAMSHAFT, high performance 1

26 425-000 $19.95 CAM BEARING SET 127 327-050 $0.55 KEY 128 460-530 $21.95 PLATE 130 311-500 $6.05 NUT 131 460-540 $24.95 CAM SPROCKET 132 460-590 $9.75 TIMING CHAIN 1

33 460-560 $11.45 TENSIONER ASSEMBLY 134 460-580 $0.25 GASKET from (e)GB259 on 136 322-250 $0.40 BOLT 2

Timing parts are often overlooked during an engine rebuild. Cam and crank gears must nothave sharp ‘pointy’ teeth, and must fit their keys perfectly. Timing chain wear can bedetermined with the chain held parallel to the floor. It should not sag appreciably. The closerto horizontal, the better the chain. The Reynolds tensioner must not be deeply grooved. It ispossible for a worn tensioner pad to fall into the chain, severely damaging the engine.

40 460-640 $59.95 SPINDLE, distributor drive 141 460-300 NA SLEEVE, distributor mounting 142 460-650 $65.95 GEAR, tach drive 143 327-010 $0.50 KEY 144 326-150 $0.35 CLIP, end of camshaft 145 323-250 $0.65 SCREW, sleeve to block 146 322-230 $0.30 BOLT, clamping plate to sleeve 2

460-638 $89.95 TAPPET & PUSHROD SET (8 pr.) 1460-628 NA TAPPET & PUSHROD, pair 8

50 460-600 $6.95 TAPPET 851 460-610 $5.45 PUSHROD 8

Note: Tappets and pushrods changed in length and diameter of the spherical mating surfacesat engine #15 GB5504. The later parts which we supply may be used in earlier engines in pairs only.

55 460-700 NA FLYWHEEL 156 190-040 $59.95 RING GEAR 157 325-090 $2.35 PIN, pressure plate locating 2

When separating the engine and transmission for any reason, be sure to check the condition of the ring gear teeth. If they are battered and worn, have the ring gear replaced. Ring gears should be replaced only by experts using professional equipment.

58 310-050 $0.45 NUT, flywheel bolt 660 322-850 $6.50 BOLT, flywheel to crankshaft 665 328-080 NA PLUG, rear main bearing cap to (e)GB40104 166 328-930 $5.95 STUD, main bearing cap 667 311-000 $1.00 NUT, main bearing stud 668 328-725 NA STUD, oil pump, long 1500 (early pump) 169 328-960 $3.35 STUD, oil pump, short later 1500 to MKII 2/3

70 460-620 NA PIPE, drain, in rear bearing cap to (e)GB40104 175 460-720 $149.95 SPINDLE, oil pump drive 176 460-725 $1.05 GASKET, pump to crankcase 177 NA OIL PUMP to (e)GB46341 1

(Note: this early pump and strainer are no longer available. The later pump and strainer,#460-730 & #460-760 listed below, may be used if used together.)

78 460-730 $99.95 OIL PUMP from (e)GB46342 179 460-735 $0.70 GASKET, strainer to pump 1

80 NA STRAINER to (e)GB46341 181 460-760 $47.50 STRAINER from (e)GB46342 182 460-005 $15.95 LOCK TAB SET 1

460-520 $1.95 LOCK PLATE, connecting rod bolts 4460-550 $1.05 LOCK PLATE, cam sprocket nut 1460-570 $0.65 LOCK PLATE, timing chain tensioner 1460-710 $2.45 LOCK PLATE, flywheel 3

Engine TechRunning clearances are most important to the success and longevity of your rebuild. Oilpressure problems traceable to improper running clearances are commonly found in the oilpump, main bearings, cam bearings and relief valve assemblies.

Check the oil pump...excessive wear and roughness of interior surfaces indicate the need fora new pump. Refer to your workshop manual for specifications and details.

Crankshaft main bearing clearances. Never attempt to compensate for excess main bearingjournal clearance by installing oversize bearings on a crankshaft that has not been turned toaccept them. Double check reground journals with Plastigauge while installing the crank.Bearing running clearances are listed in the factory shop manual. Wash the oil passages inthe crank and block with aerosol carburetor cleaner before assembly. Always use a thinsmear of an assembly lubricant. This protects the bearings until the oil reaches the journals.Never attempt to start a new or freshly rebuilt engine without first priming the oil system byremoving the spark plugs and turning the engine over with the starter until pressure registerson the gauge.

Cam Bearings. Worn cam bearings are a prime source of low oil pressure. New bearingsshould be installed and finished to correct running tolerances by a competent machinist. Cambearings must be replaced if you have your block hot tanked.

Oil Pressure Spring and Valve Assembly. The MGA oil pressure relief spring (#329-210)measures 3 inches in length. If the spring is shorter than this, low oil pressure will result. Donot stretch or shim the spring to adjust oil pressure. Replace the valve plunger if any wear isevident on the seating face.

The six flywheel bolts (#322-850) must be set in the crank before the crank is installed in theblock. Once the main caps are in place, installing these bolts is practically impossible.Damaged and/or stretched flywheel bolts will result in improper torque and a loose flywheel.Replace any that are not in good condition. Use new nuts and a thread locking compoundalong with new lock tabs.

Check the block deck surface as well as the cylinder head surface for straightness. Use asteel straight edge and a feeler gauge to measure along the length and diagonals of the block.MGA blocks are commonly shallow between cylinders number two and three. Remove aslittle of the block surface as possible; .005 will usually suffice. Counter sinking the head studswill help make a good gasket seal. The studs typically pull up the topmost thread which holdsthe gasket away from the block surface. Use a suitably sized drill bit or countersink and justtouch the hole to knock off the top thread. Always make sure your pistons do not stand morethan .010 above the deck after installation. An often surfaced deck may allow new pistons tohit the head. Mill piston tops to remove excess metal.

Flywheel ring gears are prone to considerable wear and can result in starter motor piniongears becoming jammed. A temporary fix is to rock the car backwards in first gear or use awrench on the commutator end of early style starter motors. Since a permanent cure involvesremoving the engine, we recommend careful examination whenever it is removed for othermaintenance, such as clutch replacement. Keep in mind that the ring gear wears mostly intwo small areas relating to where the pistons come to rest in the cylinder bores. Ring gearsare a heat-shrink fit and are best installed by your local automotive machine shop. The costof replacement is not expensive and offers cheap insurance against a common problem.


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Cylinder Head InspectionMGA cylinder heads are sturdy and will run acceptably well when far past their prime. Insome aspects, this is not advantageous as faults such as bad valve guides, burned valves,and cracked seats are not discovered until they are fatal to the head.Cracking is the most common problem with MGA heads. Improper torque and overheatingare the prime cause of cracks found in the seats and the exterior casting between numbertwo and three cylinders. A small crack may be successfully repaired by a machinist using anew seat. Welding is sometimes attempted, but do not expect a lot of success with cracksthat appear on the exterior of the head or in the gas passages. Welds can fail unexpectedlyregardless of the skill of the welder.Before carrying out any work on the head, clean the combustion chambers and inspect thevalves and seats for obvious problems such as burned valves and cracks.An easy (on the bench) leak test can be done with solvent or carburetor cleaner. Pour a smallamount of the fluid into the ports and set the head down on its face. After a few seconds liftthe head, and observe how much fluid has seeped around the valves; the more fluid, thepoorer the seal.Before spending time and money on your head, have it magnafluxed at a machine shop. Thisis an inexpensive process that will reveal any cracks.

Since all MGA heads are virtually interchangeable you should know what you have on yourcar. Look to the rear of the head - there is usually a number cast in the surface between thestud holes. Generally a “15” denotes a 1500 or 1600 head and a “16”, we believe, indicates a1600 MKII head. An “18” is an MGB head. Many heads were unmarked and there areexceptions. Be sure not to order cylinder head parts by external appearances. Measure yourvalves and order accordingly.The 1600 MKII carried a head with improved casting, greater port volume and larger valves.This was the pattern followed for the MGB 1800 heads.When exchanging cylinder heads keep in mind that although the castings are interchangeablethroughout the range, you should go ‘up’ not ‘down’. For example, an 1800 is suitable for a1500, but it is counterproductive to install a 1500 head on an 1800 engine.

Valve Guide InstallationBe sure to check valve stems and valve guides for wear before grinding the valve faces. Wornguides can be driven out toward the combustion chamber side by using a 9/16" diametersteel rod or punch. Press the new valve guides into the head from the top until they are 5/8"from the spring seat as illustrated below. Intake guides are fitted with the widest bevel at thetop and exhaust guides are fitted with the counterbored ends at the bottom.

Installing the Cylinder HeadOne of the most common complaints about the MGA is its leaky head gaskets. This need notbe, and is usually a symptom of poor assembly, rather than a fault of the car. A few simpleprocedures will produce a leak free installation.The first consideration is the method of removal. The proper sequence should be followed inslackening the head nuts as well as tightening them. Do not use sharp edged tools to pry atthe edges of the head. If force is necessary, gently tap the head around its perimeter with asoft-faced hammer. If it is necessary to lever the head, the lug at the back and the thermostathousing may be used to brace the lever.A good seal can be achieved only if the mating surfaces of the head and block are clean andflat. A good, if rather tedious cleaning method is to scrape the surfaces with a single edgerazor blade. Solvent or carburetor cleaner is used to help soften the old gasket. If the studsare removed, a sanding block with 80 grit waterproof paper is used to finish the surfaces.Low spots will show up as dark areas when the sandpaper block method is used. Thismethod requires some care that the grit and particles do not enter the interior of the block orcylinders. The threaded holes must be cleaned out too. Cleanliness is a prime importance,although less critical if the assembly is to be hot-tanked and washed before reassembly.Check the head and block surfaces for flatness. If the head is warped it will have to beplaned. Unless you are building a modified engine, have as little metal as possible removed.Your block may also have to be planed, and many shops will pass a block over the planer asa matter of course. See our engine section for tips on countersinking the stud holes, which isof primary importance if your block has been planed.

Cylinder Head Tech

Installation, as the saying goes, is the reversal of the above procedure. Wipe the surfaceswith a cleaner, and see that they remain clean and dry throughout the operation. Check thenew gasket; it's usually marked for ‘top’ and ‘front’. If not, it is an easy matter to line upeverything to see that it will be installed correctly. Although instructions in the gasketpackage and in some of the shop manuals may say that no gasket sealer is required, a lightcoating of ‘High Tack’ or ‘Kopper Kote’ sprayed on the gasket will help prevent leaks. This isespecially true with the composition gaskets supplied instead of the copper in many oftoday’s sets.While the gasket is drying, replace the studs and wipe any grit from the surface of the block.Studs only need to be torqued to twenty-five ft./lbs. or so. Check the studs carefully forstretched and damaged threads. Replace any that are damaged (#328-940, #328-950). Bynow, thirty or so years after manufacture, it is a good idea to replace the old studs and nuts.Place the gasket over the studs carefully. Lower the head into place, install the push rods,rocker assembly and washers and nuts. Now is where all the careful preparation can gowrong.

Torquing must be done accurately and in the proper sequence. Go around the head three orfour times, increasing the torque each time. Start at twenty-five ft./lbs., go to forty ft./lbs. andfinish up at fifty ft./lbs. Studs with a dot or the number 22 on the end will take more torquethan the unmarked studs. It is safe to torque these to sixty ft./lbs., but only if all studs are somarked.


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Cylinder Head


40 460-230 NA BRACKET, with tapped hole 141 460-240 $13.95 BRACKET, plain 342 460-270 $2.05 SCREW 143 460-280 $2.25 LOCK PLATE 144 310-140 $0.35 NUT, rocker bracket stud 450 460-210 $7.95 VALVE COTTER 1651 326-120 $0.95 CLIP 852 297-108* $1.95 VALVE STEM SEAL SET (8) 153 460-205 $3.45 VALVE RETAINER 854 433-020 $6.55 OIL DEFLECTOR 855 423-430 $24.95 SPRING SET, valve 156 460-220 $0.85 COLLAR 860 423-130 $7.95 INTAKE VALVE, 1.500” dia. 1500 - 1600 4

423-140 $8.95 INTAKE VALVE, 1.563” dia. MKII (1622) 4

61 423-110 $7.95 EXHAUST VALVE, 1.281” dia. 1500 - 1600 4423-115† $22.95 STELLITE EXHAUST VALVE 4

423-150 $8.95 EXHAUST VALVE, 1.344” dia. MKII (1622) 4423-155† $22.95 STELLITE EXHAUST VALVE 4

62 423-240 $2.45 INTAKE GUIDE, stock 463 423-245† $5.25 INTAKE GUIDE, manganese-bronze 464 423-250 $2.45 EXHAUST GUIDE, stock 465 423-255† $5.25 EXHAUST GUIDE, manganese-bronze 4

†To reduce the frequency of valve jobs, we suggest the use of our Stellite-faced exhaust valves and silicon bronze valve guides. Stellite is a very hard wear and erosion resistant alloywhich retains these properties at very high temperatures, making it the ideal material forexhaust valves. The low friction and high strength characteristics of silicon bronze producesvalve guides which not only show extremely little wear after long service but produce muchless valve stem wear than common guides. The combination of our Stellite exhaust valvesand silicon bronze valve guides cannot be beaten for reliability and longevity!

67 328-970 $1.10 STUD, rocker bracket, short 268 328-980 $1.15 STUD, rocker bracket, long 270 408-800 $5.95 VALVE COVER PLATE, MG crest 171 408-810 $4.95 VALVE COVER PLATE, patent number 172 458-765 $0.50 RIVET, valve cover plates 4

296-420 $25.95 HEAD GASKET SET, includes all items marked * 12 296-400* $24.60 GASKET, cylinder head 13 310-280 $0.95 NUT, cylinder head stud 114 324-725 $0.60 WASHER, cylinder head stud, hardened 115 328-900 $0.95 STUD, exhaust manifold to head, short 26 328-910 $1.05 STUD, exhaust manifold to head, long 47 NA VALVE COVER (see accessory section for valve covers) 18 460-100 $10.95 OIL CAP, stock type 1

460-145 $13.15 OIL CAP, chromed (no cable) 19 296-310* $3.50 GASKET, valve cover 110 460-110 $3.10 CAP NUT, valve cover 2

460-045 $5.85 CAP NUT, valve cover, chromed 211 460-120 $0.55 BUSHING, rubber 212 460-130 $0.80 WASHER, cupped, plain 2

460-135 $1.40 WASHER, cupped, chromed 213 460-115 $1.50 DISTANCE PIECE 214 386-745 $7.70 BRACKET, engine lifting 215 296-410* $3.25 GASKET, manifold 117 328-270 $0.45 PLUG, cylinder head oil feed 118 460-940 $29.50 ELBOW, water outlet 119 296-380* $0.60 GASKET 120 434-180 $4.95 THERMOSTAT, 165° hot climates 1

434-189 $4.95 THERMOSTAT, 180° standard conditions 1434-190 $4.95 THERMOSTAT, 195° cold climates 1434-135 $15.95 SLEEVE, thermo. bypass blanking (see page 53) 1

21 328-605 $0.85 STUD, water outlet elbow 3310-140 $0.35 NUT for stud 3365-730 $0.20 LOCKWASHER for nut 3

22 296-450 $1.20 * GASKET, heater valve 123 460-140 $3.55 COVER, heater valve port (when heater is not fitted) 125 460-258 NA ROCKER ASSEMBLY, new (incl. #26 - 42 below) 126 460-260 $2.40 SCREW, rocker arm adjusting 827 310-150 $0.70 NUT, adjusting 828 460-250 $19.95 ROCKER ARM 828a 325-240 NA PLUG, oil drilling 829 330-150 $2.75 BUSHING (must be drilled for oil holes and reamed) 830 451-340 $22.95 ROCKER SHAFT 135 328-080 NA PLUG, threaded 136 328-290 $5.95 PLUG, plain 137 329-470 $0.90 WASHER, double coil 238 324-400 $0.90 WASHER, plain 239 329-220 $0.45 SPRING 3



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Manifolds/Exhaust


1 456-110 $17.25 AIR HOSE, grille to carb., see page 39 for complete set 12 326-220 $3.70 CLAMP, air hose 15 223-200 $25.95 AIR FILTER, chrome, accessory 2

226-010 NA PLUG, valve cover, use with #223-200 filter 17 372-120 $42.90 AIR FILTER ASS’Y., front, original type 1

372-130 $42.90 AIR FILTER ASS’Y., rear, original type 18 322-040 $0.50 BOLT, air filter to carb. 49 372-040 $18.95 ELEMENT, for original filter 210 372-045 $12.95 FELT PAD SET, not included w/ air filters 111 372-140 $15.85 BRACKET, accelerator spring anchor 112 294-800 $0.75 GASKET, filter to carb. 213 451-000 $36.95 HEAT SHIELD, w/ asbestos pads 116 372-610 $2.15 OVERFLOW TUBE CLIP, on the side of the block 118 328-910 $1.05 STUD, exhaust manifold to head, long 4

328-900 $0.95 STUD, exhaust manifold to head, short 219 460-090 $2.05 WASHER, exhaust manifold stud 420 311-540 $0.55 NUT, brass, manifold stud 621 365-730 $0.20 LOCK WASHER, exhaust manifold stud 422 460-400 NA EXHAUST MANIFOLD 123 470-230 $3.95 SEALING RING, pipe to manifold 125 328-990 $1.45 STUD, exhaust pipe flange 326 310-260 $0.70 NUT, exhaust pipe flange 327 324-040 $0.15 WASHER, exhaust pipe flange 330 460-190 NA INTAKE MANIFOLD 131 329-800 NA STUD, carburetor mounting 432 310-050 $0.45 NUT, carburetor stud 433 324-040 $0.15 WASHER, carburetor stud 434 329-810 NA STUD, accelerator bracket 235 310-070 $0.75 NUT 236 365-730 $0.20 LOCK WASHER 237 408-830 $5.95 INFORMATION PLATE, intake manifold 1500 1

408-835 $5.95 INFORMATION PLATE, intake manifold1600 & MKII 140 296-410 $3.25 GASKET, manifold 141 372-030 $4.95 SPACER, carb. to manifold 242 294-700 $1.05 GASKET 643 372-050 $8.95 BREATHER HOSE 144 326-210 $1.15 CLAMP 250 470-230 $3.95 SEALING RING, pipe to manifold 151 454-870 $54.55 FRONT PIPE, one-piece, as original 152 321-798 $0.85 BOLT AND NUT 153 470-170 $3.25 STRAP, short 154 470-160 $4.50 STRAP, long 155 470-138 $15.55 HANGER ASSEMBLY 1

321-678 $0.80 BOLT & NUT SET 156 412-080 $4.95 MOUNT 157 454-580 $49.95 MUFFLER 158 470-150 $7.95 HANGER 1

321-678 $0.80 BOLT & NUT SET, rear hanger 1

60 451-728 $33.95 EXHAUST PIPE HEAT SHIELD(insulated accessory, mounts under floor tokeep floorboards from scorching or burning) 1

61 812-070 $1.40 CLAMP, repl. type 1812-075 $1.70 CLAMP, original type, w/o bolt 1321-678 $0.80 BOLT & NUT SET for original clamp 1454-875 $174.95 STAINLESS STEEL EXHAUST SYSTEM

(see Accessories Catalog for details) 1454-590 $69.95 FREEFLOW SPORTS MUFFLER

(see Accessories Catalog for details) 1


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Cooling/Engine Controls

Fan ShroudSignificantly reduce overheating problems with the “missinglink” of your MGA’s cooling system. This sturdy unitattaches to your existing radiator mounts, and greatlyincreases the efficiency of the fan by forcing air to be pulledthrough the radiator instead of around it.

459-645 $49.95



Cooling1 456-050 $264.75 RADIATOR (reproduction, with overflow) 12 202-020 $6.15 RADIATOR CAP, 4 lbs. normal 1

583-004 $4.95 RADIATOR CAP, 7 lbs. raises boiling temp. 13 460-020 $18.95 TAP, radiator drain 14 324-670 $0.50 WASHER, for drain tap 15 470-030 $2.95 DRAIN TUBE 16 296-110 $4.50 PACKING SET, radiator mounting 17 322-040 $0.50 BOLT, radiator mounting 610 326-408 $8.25 CLAMP SET, 6 original wire clamps 1

326-430 $1.40 CLAMP, radiator hose 6470-278 $14.95 RADIATOR HOSE SET 1

11 434-487 $4.75 RADIATOR HOSE, pipe to pump 112 470-270 $5.95 RADIATOR HOSE, upper & lower (replacement) 2

470-275 $24.50 RADIATOR HOSE, upper & lower (orig. manufacturer) 213 470-040 $25.95 PIPE, water branch 114 473-080 $9.45 NIPPLE (used when heater is fitted) 1

328-040 $8.70 PLUG (used when heater is not fitted) 115 324-660 $0.65 WASHER 1

MGA water pumps incorporate a carbon race seal design which must be perfectly lapped against the impeller to insure a leak-free seal. For best results, new pumps should beinstalled and then run dry for approximately 30 seconds without coolant. Modern antifreezemixtures are so efficient that they prevent the friction necessary to break in the seal.

17 460-950 $39.95 WATER PUMP, less pulley all except Twin Cam 1

460-960 NA REPAIR KIT single bearing pump only 1460-965 $10.95 SEAL, rear from (e)GB39365 1

20 296-320 $1.65 GASKET, pump to body 121 460-920 $39.95 PULLEY 122 460-930 $67.95 FAN 123 322-230 $0.30 BOLT, fan to pulley 425 321-598 $0.50 BOLT & NUT SET 228 460-990 $4.95 FAN BELT 129 460-940 $29.50 ELBOW, water outlet 130 296-380 $0.60 GASKET 131 434-180 $4.95 THERMOSTAT, 165° hot climates/summer 1

434-189 $4.95 THERMOSTAT, 180° standard 1434-190 $4.95 THERMOSTAT, 195° cold climates/winter 1

32 328-605 $0.85 STUD, thermostat housing 3

An overtightened fan belt will ruin the generator and water pump bearings, and willeventually loosen the crank pulley rivets. Refer to workshop manual.

Engine Controls40 280-790 $2.10 PEDAL PAD, accelerator 142 331-350 $25.95 CHOKE CABLE 143 331-090 $7.85 ACCELERATOR CABLE 144 372-140 $15.85 BRACKET, accelerator spring anchor 145 372-160 $26.95 BRACKET, cable 146 372-055 $8.30 CABLE ANCHOR 148 329-025 $2.40 SPRING 150 372-060 $4.75 GUIDE, accelerator cable 151 322-940 $0.50 SCREW, for guide 252 378-620 $9.95 TRUNNION 153 375-108 $3.25 CABLE STOP, w/ nut 254 372-070 $1.10 BRACKET, accelerator spring 155 329-005 NA SPRING, accelerator return 1500 to (c)24593 1

329-015 $3.50 SPRING, accelerator return from (c)24594 thru MKII 156 372-035 $2.05 DISTANCE TUBE, pedal stop 257 372-025 NA STOP, accelerator pedal (rubbber) 1

Operating the ChokeThe manual choke controls two distinct functions of the SU carburetors. The first third of thetravel of the choke cable works the fast idle only. The second two-thirds controls the mixtureenrichment, as well as the fast idle. The second function is the mixture enrichment. Thecolder the engine and surrounding air, the greater the need for more gasoline to be mixedwith the air at the carburetor. As the engine warms, the need for a richer mixture lessens.When starting from cold, always pull the choke completely out. Once the engine has started,the driver must gradually release the choke as the engine warms. If released too soon, theengine will cough and spit, especially under acceleration. If released too slowly, the enginewill run rough, especially while idling.By the time the temperature approaches 160°F, the choke can be released completely. If thechoke is left out too long, the extra gasoline can mix with the engine oil by ‘washing down’the cylinder walls. If your choke does not seem to be operating correctly, consult yourworkshop manual or our tech tip on mixture adjustment on page 15 of this catalog.



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Carburetors

Twin Cam carburetors are shown on pages 16-17.


370-778 $899.95 CARBURETOR PAIR, new 1500 1370-788 $899.95 CARBURETOR PAIR. new 1600 & 1622 1

1 372-545§ $2.95 BUSH, in carb. body 42 375-048 $5.05 PIN ASSEMBLY 23 370-730 $169.95 CHAMBER AND PISTON ASSEMBLY 24 370-180 $1.55 SCREW, jet needle retaining 2

5 370-745 $27.45 DAMPER, brass cap w/o vent 1500 2370-740 $19.95 DAMPER, repl. plastic cap w/o vent 2

370-765 $21.95 DAMPER, brass cap w/vent 1600 & 1622 2370-750 $10.95 DAMPER, repl. plastic cap w/vent 2

6 370-650§* $0.60 WASHER, damper 27 370-520 $2.95 SPRING 28 370-360 $1.10 WASHER (used with original tapered-end springs only) 29 370-290 $0.95 SCREW 610 324-110 $0.10 LOCK WASHER 611 370-760§* $9.95 JET, .090” 212 370-395 $29.95 JET BEARING KIT 213 370-240 $2.65 NUT, jet adjusting 214 370-210 $1.10 SPRING 215 370-400 $3.35 NUT 216 370-220§* $2.65 WASHER 217 295-000§*† $1.10 CORK SEAL 218 370-410§* $1.05 COPPER WASHER 219 370-390 $7.65 JET BEARING, bottom 220 295-200§*† $1.35 JET SEAL, cork 4

365-420 $0.75 O-RING (replacement for #20 cork seal, not in #12) 421 370-230§* $1.05 WASHER 422 370-070 $2.75 SPRING 223 370-380 $8.95 JET BEARING, top 224 370-250§* $1.00 WASHER 2

25 374-120* $8.95 NEEDLE, GS standard 2374-040 $13.95 NEEDLE, CC rich 1500 2374-160 $13.95 NEEDLE, 4 lean 2

374-170* $9.95 NEEDLE, 6 standard 2374-150 $12.95 NEEDLE, RO rich 1600 & 1622 2374-010 $8.95 NEEDLE, AO lean 2

26 370-550 $3.45 SPRING, jet lever return 227 370-680 $13.95 LEVER, front 1

28 370-690 $13.95 LEVER, rear 129 378-240 $6.95 UNION, vacuum line 130 370-630 $8.45 LINK 231 325-110• $1.90 PIN, with hole for cotter pin A/R

325-115• $0.55 PIN, no hole, uses starlock washer #328-270 A/R•NOTE: Application and use of these two pins varies. “Officially”, the pin using the starlock washer was used from engine # 16GA31660.

32 375-078§* $0.95 PIN SET (8 cotter pins) 133 370-570 $19.95 CAM 134 370-450 $4.95 BOLT 135 370-460 $0.90 SPRING 136 370-580 $8.95 LINK 137 376-030§ $13.95 THROTTLE SHAFT, standard 2

376-040 $13.95 THROTTLE SHAFT, oversize (fit to worn bodies) 238 370-370§ $9.95 DISC, throttle 239 370-090§ $0.65 SCREW 440 370-590 $10.95 SPRING ANCHOR 241 370-610 $3.95 SPRING, front 142 370-620 $4.80 SPRING, rear 143 370-600 $10.95 END CLIP 244 365-610 $1.20 SCREW 245 365-630 $0.55 NUT 246 370-300 $18.90 STOP 147 370-560 $20.95 LEVER 148 370-190 $1.35 PIN 249 370-340 $1.65 SCREW 350 370-330 $0.70 SPRING 351 370-110 $10.45 LEVER 152 372-170 $0.80 BOLT 1

53 372-180 $0.65 WASHER 254 372-190 $8.95 BANJO BOLT late type 255 372-200 $0.95 WASHER, upper alternative to #75 - 76 256 372-210 $0.95 WASHER, lower 257 311-230 $0.65 NUT 2


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CarburetorsComplete Carburetor RebuildRebushing carburetor bodies and fitting new throttle shafts is a major part of a proper carbrebuild that is often overlooked. Vacuum leaks due to worn bodies and shafts cause roughidle, poor performance and poor fuel economy.Checking the shaft and body clearance is a simple matter of wiggling the shafts up anddown. Any appreciable play indicates wear on the bushings and shafts. Some wear is to beexpected, but performance is seriously affected when clearances are over .010". Verificationis done with the engine running at idle speed. Spray the joints of the shafts with an aerosolcarburetor cleaner. If the engine stumbles, there is a leak around the shafts.

Quite often, the problem can be fixed by simply replacing the throttle shafts. Remove thecouplings and springs from the shafts and clean the exposed portions of the shafts. Mark thebutterfly plates with a felt-tip pen to record which way they face and which end is installedupwards, then remove the two securing screws. Pull the plates out, and slide the shaftssideways until a clean unworn section of the shaft is in each side of the body. Now wigglethem up and down and back to front to gauge whether any play is present. If none, a newpair of standard shafts should solve the problem. Oversize shafts (if not already fitted) can bepurchased to take up a small amount of play. Standard shafts measure .310", while theoversize shafts are appropriately larger. (Not all oversize shafts are exactly the same size.) Ifthe bodies and shafts are both worn, the carb bodies require rebushing.To rebush bodies, the old bushes (or the bodies, if your carbs don’t have bushes) must bedrilled out, just short of entering the venturi to a diameter just smaller than the bushdiameter. Since each side of the carb must be drilled separately, accurate alignment of thetwo holes is difficult to maintain. We have found that an easy way to do this is to chuck theproper sized drill in a lathe, and run the carb body into the drill with the tailstock center. Newbushes (#372-545) are then pressed into the bodies, and reamed to fit the new spindles withthe minimum clearance which allows rotation of the spindle. This is best accomplished witha 5/16" adjustable reamer with a pilot long enough to ride in the opposing bush. Sometimesit is necessary to lap the spindle in the bushes. This is done by chucking the spindle in ahand drill and running it dry in the reamed bushes. Do not use any abrasive compound; thedark oxide that is formed will be enough. Add a drop of oil, and continue until the shaftrotates freely in the bushes. Refit the butterfly plates and drill the shaft for the adjustinglevers, drill the taper pin holes with the throttle completely closed. The drilling is best donefrom the underside on a drill press with the parts clamped in a jig. The hole must be drilledexactly on center or the shaft will be spoiled.After reinstallation of the throttle plates and return springs, the rest of the carburetor rebuildis routine. Keep in mind the throttle plates must be centralized before the screws aretightened.If all of this seems rather complex, it is. Rebushing carburetors takes patience, specializedtools, and experience. The easiest alternative for the average enthusiast is to buy a pair ofnew carburetors from Moss Motors.


If you can wiggle your throttle shafts anappreciable amount, they probably need tobe replaced or the carb body rebushed.

Spray carb cleaner here - if your idlespeed increases, your throttle shafts leak.

58 370-480 $89.95 FLOAT CHAMBER, front 159 370-470 $89.95 FLOAT CHAMBER, rear 160 370-150 $4.05 CAP NUT 261 370-130§* $0.80 WASHER, aluminum 262 451-250 $14.50 OVERFLOW PIPE 263 370-160§* $0.60 WASHER, fiber 264 375-068 $78.95 COVER, front, with lever 165 375-058 $78.95 COVER, rear, with lever 166 370-060§* $0.65 PIN 267 370-170§* $5.95 LEVER for original lids 2

371-030 $2.75 LEVER for replacement lids 268 294-900§*† $0.95 GASKET, cover 269 371-060§* $9.75 NEEDLE & SEAT 2

386-390 $5.95 GROSE JET, superior replacement for original styleneedle & seat 2

70 370-010 $24.95 FLOAT 271 370-270 $3.80 SCREEN 272 370-140 $9.95 BANJO 173 370-350 $5.50 BANJO BOLT, lid 274 370-650§* $0.60 WASHER 4

75 370-080 $6.95 BANJO BOLT, mounting alternative to #53 - 57 276 370-030 $1.05 WASHER 2

77 370-020§*† $1.95 RUBBER WASHER 478 370-660 $5.95 LINK 179 310-040 $0.15 NUT 279a 324-185 $0.70 SPRING WASHER 280 370-670 $4.95 TRUNNION 181 375-028 $36.80 COUPLING KIT 182 372-030 $4.95 SPACER, carb. to manifold early type 283 370-640 $1.55 WASHER, plain 184 378-265 $0.55 WASHER, starlock (small) 385 378-270 $0.60 WASHER, starlock (large) (see note under illus. #31) A/R86 371-090 $7.40 PIN, link 1

Rebuild Kits375-518 $119.90 MASTER REBUILD KIT, includes items marked § 1375-238 $89.95 CARB. REBUILD KIT, 1500, includes items marked * 1375-248 $89.95 CARB. REBUILD KIT, 1600/MKII, includes items marked * 1298-228 $17.95 CARB. GASKET SET, includes items marked † 1

88 294-700§*† $1.05 GASKET, carb. mounting 6294-800§*† $0.75 GASKET, air cleaner mounting 2

89 386-400 $2.85 JET ADJUSTING WRENCH 190 408-470 $2.50 CARB. I.D. TAG (AUC 784) 1500 2

408-475 $6.45 CARB. I.D. TAG (AUC 943) 1600 & MKII 2408-490 $2.50 CARB I.D. TAG (AUC877) Twin Cam 2

§Master rebuild kit is a genuine S.U. kit which does not include metering needles, as one kitis suitable for several applications. Order appropriate needles separately.

SU Carburetor Choke AdjustmentMixture adjustment and synchronization of SUs seems to be widely understood. Of equal importance is the adjustment of the choke mechanism. If set too rich, the carb. will fill thecylinders with raw fuel and dilute the engine oil, causing premature bearing, piston ring, andcylinder wear. If set too lean, the car starts hard, which drains the battery and overheats theowner.Of first consideration is the fit of the clevis pins in the choke levers. If these holes areexcessively worn, the chokes will not operate through their entire range. New levers (#370-680 & #370-690) and clevis pins (#325-110) are the cure for this problem.Once the new parts are fitted, adjust the slack out of the choke linkage at the interconnectorlink. Slacken the top and bottom so the linkage is “relaxed”, then tighten the bottom nut sothat just a bit of pressure is brought to bear on the lever. Do not overcompensate, as this will“preload” the chokes and cause over-rich mixtures. Once set to your satisfaction, run the topnut in the bottom as a lock nut. Now, hook up the choke cable. Give it a turn to the right tohelp the cable lock work, and don’t get the cable too tight; leave a little slack.The fast idle cam may be adjusted to suit weather conditions by moving the link rod to theappropriate hole. #1 opens the butterfly a small amount slowly. #3 opens it a large amountquickly. #3 is intended for colder weather, #1 for warmer climates. Yours may be set at #2,where the majority were set to begin with. If so, you may want to leave it alone, as the #2setting seems to work in just about any climate. The fast idle screw should be set last of alland should be backed off completely when setting the idle, and synchronizing thecarburetors. Set the screw so it is about about 1/32” shy of the cam. Smear a dab of lightgrease on the cam face. If the idle screws do not hold their setting, new springs are in order.


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16

Carburetors - Twin Cam


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Carburetors - Twin CamNo. Part Price Description Application Qty.

No. (each) Req.

370-798 $799.95 CARBURETOR PAIR, new 11 372-545§ $2.95 BUSH, in carb. body 42 375-048 $5.05 PIN ASSEMBLY 23 370-850 NA CHAMBER AND PISTON ASSEMBLY 24 370-180 $1.55 SCREW, jet needle retaining 25 370-765 $21.95 DAMPER, brass cap w/vent 2

370-750 $10.95 DAMPER, repl. plastic cap w/vent 26 370-650§* $0.60 WASHER, damper 27 370-520 $2.95 SPRING 28 370-360 $1.10 WASHER (used with older tapered-end springs only) 29 370-290 $0.95 SCREW 610 324-110 $0.10 LOCK WASHER 611 378-350§* $11.95 JET, .100” 212 370-395 $29.95 JET BEARING KIT 213 370-240 $2.65 NUT, jet adjusting 214 370-210 $1.10 SPRING 215 370-400 $3.35 NUT 216 370-220 $2.65 WASHER 217 295-000§*† $1.10 CORK SEAL 418 370-410§* $1.05 COPPER WASHER 219 370-390 $7.65 JET BEARING, bottom 220 295-200§*† $1.35 JET SEAL, cork 4

365-420 $0.75 O-RING (replacement for #20 cork seal, not in #12) 421 370-230§* $1.05 WASHER 422 370-070 $2.75 SPRING 223 370-380 $8.95 JET BEARING, top 224 370-250§* $1.00 WASHER 225 374-220 $8.95 JET NEEDLE, RH, rich 2

021-077 $8.95 JET NEEDLE, 0A6, standard 2021-076 $8.95 JET NEEDLE, 0A7, lean 2

26 370-550 $3.45 SPRING, jet lever return 227 370-680 $13.95 LEVER, rear 128 370-690 $13.95 LEVER, front 130 370-630 $8.45 LINK 231 325-110• $1.90 PIN, with hole for cotter pin A/R32 325-115• $0.55 PIN, no hole, uses starlock washer #328-270 A/R•NOTE: Application and use of these two pins varies.

33 375-078§* $0.95 PIN SET (8 cotter pins) 134 378-270 $0.60 WASHER, starlock (large) A/R35 370-570 $19.95 CAM, fast idle 136 370-450 $4.95 BOLT 137 370-460 $0.90 SPRING 138 370-580 $8.95 LINK 139 370-640 $1.55 WASHER, plain 140 372-500§ $13.95 THROTTLE SHAFT, standard 2

372-510 $13.95 THROTTLE SHAFT, oversize (fit to worn bodies) 241 378-220§ $10.65 DISC, throttle 242 370-090§ $0.65 SCREW 445 370-590 $10.95 SPRING ANCHOR 246 370-610 $3.95 SPRING, rear 1

370-620 $4.80 SPRING, front 147 370-600 $10.95 END CLIP 248 365-610 $1.20 SCREW 249 365-630 $0.55 NUT 250 365-620 $0.35 WASHER 153 370-300 $18.90 THROTTLE STOP, front carb 154 370-560 $20.95 THROTTLE STOP, rear carb 155 370-190 $1.35 PIN 256 370-340 $1.65 SCREW 357 370-330 $0.70 SPRING 358 370-110 $10.45 LEVER, throttle 160 NA COUPLER 161 NA LEVER, coupler 162 372-170 $0.80 BOLT 363 311-030 $0.20 NUT 364 324-110 $0.10 LOCKWASHER 265 373-210 $0.55 WASHER, plain 266 NA ROD, coupling 167 370-517 $14.95 COUPLER 1

70 370-660 $5.95 LINK 171 310-040 $0.15 NUT 272 324-185 $0.70 SPRING WASHER 273 370-670 $4.95 TRUNNION 174 WASHER75 371-090 $7.40 PIN, link 176 378-265 $0.55 WASHER, starlock (small) 4

78 370-080 $6.95 BANJO BOLT, mounting 279 370-030 $1.05 WASHER, cupped alternative to #81-85 2

80 370-020§*† $1.95 RUBBER WASHER 4

81 372-180 $0.65 WASHER 282 372-190 $8.95 BANJO BOLT 283 372-200 $0.95 WASHER, upper alternative to #78-79 284 372-210 $0.95 WASHER, lower 285 311-230 $0.65 NUT 2

86 370-480 $89.95 FLOAT CHAMBER, rear 1370-470 $89.95 FLOAT CHAMBER, front 1

88 370-150 $4.05 CAP NUT 289 370-130§* $0.80 WASHER, aluminum 290 451-250 $14.50 OVERFLOW PIPE 291 370-160§* $0.60 WASHER, fiber 292 375-068 $78.95 COVER, rear, with lever 1

375-058 $78.95 COVER, front, with lever 194 370-060§* $0.65 PIN 295 370-170§* $5.95 LEVER for original lids 2

371-030 $2.75 LEVER for replacement lids 296 294-900§*† $0.95 GASKET, cover 297 371-060§* $9.75 NEEDLE & SEAT 2

386-390 $5.95 GROSE JET, superior replacement for original styleneedle & seat 2

98 370-010 $24.95 FLOAT 299 370-270 $3.80 SCREEN 2100 370-140 $9.95 BANJO, rear carb. 1101 370-350 $5.50 BANJO BOLT, lid 2102 370-650§* $0.60 WASHER 4

Rebuild Kits / Gaskets375-528 $119.90 MASTER REBUILD KIT, includes items marked § 1370-538 NA REBUILD KIT, includes items marked * 1698-010 $9.95 GASKET SET, incl. items marked † (for 1 carb.) 2696-010§*† $0.95 GASKET, carb. mounting 2696-020§*† $0.90 GASKET, air cleaner mounting 2386-400 $2.85 JET ADJUSTING WRENCH 1408-490 $2.50 CARB. I.D. TAG (AUC877) 2

§Master rebuild kit is a genuine S.U. kit which does not include metering needles, as one kitis suitable for several applications. Order appropriate needles separately.



0

18

Fuel System


45 328-280 $3.80 DRAIN PLUG 146 470-870 NA WASHER, drain plug 1

Diagnosing Fuel Pump ProblemsMost fuel pump problems are best cured by a direct replacement of the pump. A brieftrouble-shooting session will help you determine if a fuel pump is needed, or if you have aproblem that can be easily fixed.

No click: Check the electrical supply to the pump. Check the ground connection and the fuse.Rap the pump. If the pump starts, the points need replacing or there is a bad electricalconnection. Disconnect the fuel line at the carburetor. If the pump now works, it is likely thatthere is a stuck float needle valve.

No fuel: If the electrical parts check out okay and the pump either does not click at all, orstops clicking after a brief moment, the delivery line from the tank may be clogged. Checkthe line and the tank for foreign matter or obstructions. Blow through the delivery lines intothe tank. If the pump runs again momentarily, the obstruction is probably in the tank. Seethat the filter in the pump is clean.

Pump won’t shut off: If the pump will not shut off, there is an air leak. Air leaks are commonat the inlet and outlet elbows. A float needle that is stuck open will also cause the pump torun. This will be immediately evident as fuel will pour out of the overflow. A set of Grose Jets(#386-330, 2 req.) will eliminate this problem. If you choose not to run Grose Jets, see thatthe overflow tubes are in good condition, as otherwise the fuel will be sprayed over the hotexhaust manifold and exhaust pipe. Occasionally a pump will be able to rid itself of airbubbles. After working on the fuel system, run the pump and loosen the front carburetorconnection. Tighten this fitting as the pump runs. This will ‘bleed’ the fuel system of air.

PumpsIn our many years of experience, we’ve found that S.U. fuel pumps are normally reliable andgive years of trouble-free service. S.U. pumps are still in production and are reasonablypriced. More pumps, including SU electronic pumps are listed in our British AccessoriesCatalog at the front of this publication.1 377-040 $119.95 FUEL PUMP, new S.U. replacement 12 377-120 $6.95 CAP, stepped 1

377-115 $6.95 CAP, flat 13 377-110 $9.95 CONDENSER 14 377-080 $9.95 POINT SET 15 376-995† $22.95 DIAPHRAGM, 2 3/8” stem flat center 15a 377-130† $19.95 DIAPHRAGM, 2 3/8” stem stepped center 1

377-140† $19.95 DIAPHRAGM, 3” stem 1†Original pumps varied. S.U. replacements use 377-130.

6 377-100 $0.90 GASKET, body 17 377-090 $11.40 SCREEN, filter 18 377-150 $7.95 PEDESTAL 19 282-015 $8.95 BOOT, fuel pump cover 110 375-038 $8.95 ELBOW, 3 - piece ass’y. 211 377-258 $16.95 FUEL PUMP MOUNTING KIT 1

281-148* $2.20 PAD SET, pump mounting 115 321-698 $0.50 BOLT AND NUT 216 321-688 $0.55 BOLT AND NUT 217 321-668 $1.15 BOLT AND NUT 218 470-840 $50.90 STRAP, tank mounting 219 280-300* $8.95 PACKING, fuel tank straps 120 456-800 $284.95 GAS TANK 125 470-850 $69.95 EXTENSION, original type 126 470-190 $19.95 GAS CAP, original type 127 326-730 $3.95 LEVER, gas cap 128 470-210 $1.85 SEAL, gas cap (cork) 129 280-780* $3.95 FERRULE, extension to body (rubber) 130 470-220 $6.55 HOSE, extension to tank 131 326-230 $1.75 CLAMP, hose 232 282-720* $1.95 SEAL, filler pipe, on trunk floor 133 454-090 $21.95 FUEL PIPE, tank to pump 1

* See body rubber sets on pages 32-33.34 360-280 $76.95 SENDING UNIT, fuel gauge 135 293-415 $1.00 GASKET, sending unit 136 323-728 $2.15 SCREW SET (six screws) 140 454-065 $29.95 FUEL PIPE, pump to flex line 141 376-300 $3.45 UNION 142 376-350† $18.95 FUEL LINE, pipe to carb. 143 370-140 $9.95 BANJO UNION 144 376-070† $28.95 FUEL LINE, carb. to carb. 1†Note: These fuel lines are braided stainless steel with a non-aging Teflon interior.


19

MG

A

Clutch



MASTER CYLINDER, see page 26

1 190-140 $69.95 CLUTCH DISC, new, 10 splines 1500, 1600 & MKII 1to (e)3928 1

190-250 $49.95 CLUTCH DISC, new, 23 splines MKII from (e)3829 1

2 190-120 $99.95 PRESSURE PLATE, new 13 190-530 NA RETAINER, release plate all 3

MGA starters have a habit of chewing up the flywheel ring gear. While replacing a clutch,always check the ring gear for damage to the teeth, and have your machine shop install anew one if significant damage is present.

5 190-290 $16.95 RELEASE BEARING, stock type (carbon faced) 1190-295 $31.95 RELEASE BEARING, ball bearing type (heavy duty replacement)1

6 310-070 $0.75 NUT 1500 to (e)4524 1310-240 $0.60 NUT from (e)4525 thru MKII 1

7 190-555 NA BOLT 1500 to (e)4524 1190-550 $8.75 BOLT from (e)4525 thru MKII 1

8 190-545 NA LEVER, clutch release 1500 to (e)4524 1190-540 NA LEVER, clutch release from (e)4525 thru MKII 1

9 330-290 $2.30 BUSHING, in lever 1500 to (e)4524 1330-200 $2.25 BUSHING, in lever from (e)4525 thru MKII 1

10 190-310 $0.95 RETAINER, release bearing 211 322-540 $0.75 BOLT, plate to flywheel 614 180-720 $59.95 SLAVE CYLINDER 115 180-960 $4.30 REPAIR KIT 1

16 180-390 $7.95 BANJO BOLT 117 324-740 $0.80 WASHER, large copper 1500 to (c)11767 118 180-050 $25.95 BANJO 1

19 324-720 $0.95 WASHER, small copper 1500 to (c)11767 120 322-670 $0.75 BOLT, cylinder to gearbox 221 324-040 $0.15 WASHER 222 180-080 $2.15 BLEEDER 123 325-140 $0.85 CLEVIS PIN 124 180-200 $12.95 PUSH ROD 125 365-720 $0.25 WASHER 126 461-010 $5.95 BOOT, clutch lever 127 180-820 $16.50 HOSE, clutch 128 324-720 $0.95 WASHER, copper 129 324-180 $0.30 LOCK WASHER 130 311-420 $1.70 NUT 131 181-210 $17.95 PIPE, master cylinder to hose LHD only 1

181-215 NA PIPE, master cylinder to hose RHD only 136 180-390 $7.95 BANJO BOLT 137 324-740 $0.80 WASHER, large copper 138 180-050 $25.95 BANJO FITTING 139 324-720 $0.95 WASHER, small copper 140 180-400 $8.95 ADAPTOR, slave cylinder pipe 141 324-730 $0.35 WASHER, copper 145 325-150 $0.90 CLEVIS PIN 146 330-180 $3.35 PEDAL BUSH 147 329-350 $2.45 SPRING, pedal return 148 280-770 $2.95 PEDAL PAD, brake & clutch 249 387-250 $3.95 CLUTCH ALIGNMENT TOOL 10 spline 1

387-210 $3.95 CLUTCH ALIGNMENT TOOL 23 spline 1

Sorting Out Clutch ProblemsClutch problems fall into three categories:

a. The clutch does not release properly when the pedal is depressed, resulting in difficultengaging of gears.

b. Clutch slip, a condition where the engine speed increases when you give the car gas whilein gear, but the car does not speed up accordingly.

c. Clutch judder, where the clutch does not take up smoothly as you let the clutch out.Problem “a” is usually caused by faulty hydraulics. First, check that there is sufficient fluid inthe clutch master cylinder. If the level is low, look for leaks at the master cylinder or slavecylinder, and rebuild or replace these cylinders as necessary. If the level is okay and there areno leaks evident, bleed the system to ensure there is no air present. Check that the flexiblehose has not deteriorated; watch to see that it does not expand in diameter while a colleaguepushes the clutch pedal. If the hydraulics are working properly, the end of the throwout forkarm should travel a minimum of 3/8". If the clutch does not release properly, even though thehydraulics are working correctly, either the throwout bearing is completely worn out (so thepressure plate is not being pushed far enough to release the disc), or the disc itself ishanging up. Either of these problems require that the engine be removed to inspect andremedy the situation.

Problems “b” and “c” both require that the engine be removed to get at the clutch. Clutchslip results from the disc being worn out or oily, (which also causes judder), or the pressureplate springs being weak. Since getting to the clutch is such a labor-intensive operation, westrongly recommend replacing the disc pressure plate and throwout bearing if you have amechanical problem with your clutch. Also, check the clutch lever bushing and pivot bolt andreplace if worn. Excess play of the lever will cause premature wear on the throwout bearing.A new throwout bearing has 11/64” of carbon thrust face exposed from the metal body; ifyours has 1/8” or less, it should be replaced, too. If your disc has worn so far that the rivetsare exposed, check the face of the flywheel for grooves. It must be removed and resurfaced ifthe surface is scored noticeably.



0

20

Gearbox


1 310-070 $0.75 NUT 1500 to (e)4524 1310-240 $0.60 NUT from (e)4525 thru MKII 1

2 190-555 NA BOLT 1500 to (e)4524 1190-550 $8.75 BOLT from (e)4525 thru MKII 1

3 190-545 NA LEVER, clutch release 1500 to (e)4524 1190-540 NA LEVER, clutch release from (e)4525 thru MKII 1

4 330-290 $2.30 BUSHING, in lever 1500 to (e)4524 1330-200 $2.25 BUSHING, in lever from (e)4524 thru MKII 1

5 328-055 $7.95 PLUG, oil drain 16 296-440 $8.60 GEARBOX GASKET SET (does not include oil seals) 17 328-320 NA PLUG, blanking 18 324-830 NA WASHER, for #328-320 plug 29 461-010 $5.95 BOOT, clutch lever 110 461-020 $22.95 DIPSTICK 111 461-000* NA FRONT COVER to (G)A8010 1

461-030 NA FRONT COVER from (G)A8011 on 112 120-300 $3.25 OIL SEAL, input shaft 1

* Early cars had no oil seal, later cover and seal may be retro-fitted.15 461-040 NA SIDE PLATE 118 323-290 NA SCREW, countersunk 319 461-050 $0.40 WASHER 320 461-060* NA BUSH, sliding spline mainshaft non-flanged mainshaft 1

* This bush must be honed to size after installation.21 121-000 $32.95 SEAL, thick steel/rubber/felt, external 1500 to (c)20752 1

22 120-400 $8.95 SEAL, thin steel/rubber, internal 1500 from (c)20753to end of ‘GB’ engine 1

23 121-100 $8.95 SEAL, flanged type mainshaft 124 127-800 $23.95 BEARING, flanged type mainshaft 125 326-160 NA CLIP from GD engine on 126 461-800 NA FLANGE 1

27 324-100 $0.40 LOCK WASHER from GD engine on 128 310-570 $3.15 NUT 1

30 460-000 NA COVER 132 322-220 $0.25 BOLT 634 267-040 $2.75 BREATHER 135 461-080 NA SHAFT, remote control 136 461-090 NA LEVER, front selector 139 327-030 $0.70 KEY 440 461-100 NA LEVER, rear selector 141 461-110 $2.95 BUSHING, nylon replacement 142 326-170 NA CLIP for original brass bushing 146 461-120 NA FORK, 1st & 2nd gear 147 461-760 NA LOCK BOLT 3

310-080 $0.15 NUT, for #461-760 lock bolt 348 461-130 $49.95 SHAFT, 1st & 2nd fork 149 329-520 $0.30 BALL 350 329-240 $0.55 SPRING 351 461-150 $39.95 FORK, 3rd & 4th gear 152 461-140 NA TUBE, spacing (on shaft #53) 153 461-160 NA SHAFT, 3rd & 4th fork 154 461-170 $21.95 FORK, reverse gear 156 461-180 NA SHAFT, reverse gear fork 157 461-190 $19.95 BLOCK, shaft locating 160 461-200 NA SELECTOR, 1st & 2nd gear 161 461-770 $1.95 LOCK BOLT 362 461-210 NA SELECTOR, 3rd & 4th gear 164 461-220 NA SELECTOR, reverse gear 166 461-230 NA ARM ASSEMBLY, interlock 167 461-240 NA SHAFT, input, 10 clutch splines 1500, 1600 & early MKII 1

461-250 NA SHAFT, input, 23 clutch splines MKII from (e)16GC3929 168 461-260 $11.95 NUT 169 461-270 $2.95 LOCK WASHER 170 127-200 $38.55 BEARING, input shaft 171 326-180 NA CLIP 172 461-280 $0.75 SHIM, .002” A/R

461-290 $0.80 SHIM, .004” A/R


21

MG

A

Gearbox

MGA Gearbox Rear OilSeal Type IdentificationUse this diagram to determine the type of rear oil seal you need before ordering.Note that the dimension “A” is the outsidediameter of the tailshaft housing.



115 461-600 $9.95 THRUST WASHER, rear .155” A/R461-610 $9.95 THRUST WASHER, rear .157” A/R461-620 $9.95 THRUST WASHER, rear .160” A/R461-630 $9.95 THRUST WASHER, rear .163” A/R

116 461-640 NA SHAFT, reverse gear 1117 461-780 $2.25 LOCK BOLT, reverse shaft 1118 461-650 $1.20 TAB WASHER 1119 461-660 $39.95 REVERSE GEAR 1120 330-170 NA BUSHING 1121 321-598 $0.50 BOLT & NUT, gearbox to engine 7125 325-060 $0.65 PIN 2127 443-065 $69.95 GEARSHIFT LEVER 1128 461-680 $9.95 GEARSHIFT KNOB, reproduction of original 1129 311-180 $2.40 NUT, chrome plated 1130 461-690 NA PLATE 1131 325-100 $4.00 PIN 2132 443-070 $7.95 SPRING 1133 443-080 $6.45 RETAINER 1134 443-090 $1.95 CIRCLIP 1135 461-700 NA PLUNGER, reverse selector 1136 329-270 $1.25 SPRING, plunger 1137 461-710 NA PLUG, plunger 1139 329-520 $0.30 BALL, plunger 1140 329-240 $0.55 SPRING, plunger 1143 322-460 $0.50 BOLT, long 2145 460-150 NA CAP, remote damper 1146 324-770 $1.25 WASHER 1147 443-030 $5.25 PLUNGER 1148 329-010 $1.00 SPRING 2149 329-510 $0.60 BALL 1150 461-730 NA SHAFT, remote control 1151 461-740 NA LEVER, front 1152 461-750 NA LEVER, rear 1156 280-760 $8.95 GEARSHIFT BOOT 1157 326-480 $3.95 CHROME RING 1158 413-040 $12.95 REAR GEARBOX MOUNT 1159 322-698 $3.85 BOLT AND NUT, rear mount 1

Laygear shafts for early gearboxes are subject to excessive wear and can cause expensiveproblems. If pitted bearing wear causes the laygear to seize. Removal and replacement of thelayshaft is not difficult when the transmission is out for a clutch job.Proceed as follows: With the gearbox standing on its end and adequately supported, removethe gearbox front cover plate. This leaves the end of the layshaft exposed, and it can then bepulled straight up and out for inspection. Do not tilt the gearbox until the layshaft has beenreplaced, or realignment of the laygear and various thrust washers may be very difficult. If,upon inspection, the layshaft is heavily pitted, a complete teardown is recommended, as thelaygear roller bearings will also be excessively worn. The ideal situation is to replace thelayshaft just before it starts pitting. It’s also a good idea to replace the 1st motion shaft seal(Moss #120-300).

73 442-298 $18.50 ROLLER SET 174 451-365 NA MAINSHAFT, sliding joint type 1500 to (c)20752 1

451-375 NA MAINSHAFT, sliding joint type 1500 from (c)20753; (G)A101 to end of ‘GB’ eng. 1

451-370 $249.95 MAINSHAFT, flanged type from ‘GD’ engine on 174a NA SPACER, mainshaft 175 461-300 $0.70 RESTRICTOR 1

The factory manual recommends 30 wt. engine oil for MGA gearboxes. Heavier oil will slow the gear change but its use is acceptable to quiet noisy gears. Use 40 or 50 wt. oil.

76 461-310 $3.45 WASHER, .157” A/R461-320 NA WASHER, .159” A/R461-330 NA WASHER, .161” A/R

77 461-340 $4.50 THRUST WASHER, rear 178 461-350 NA PEG, front thrust washer 179 329-250 NA SPRING 180 127-900 $29.95 BEARING, mainshaft 181 461-360 $23.20 HOUSING 182 461-370 NA PEG 183 461-380 NA SPACER 1

84 461-395 NA NUT 185 461-405 NA LOCK WASHER 1500 to (c)20752 186 461-425 NA GEAR, speedo drive 1

461-385 NA NUT 1500 from (c)20753 1461-365 NA LOCK WASHER or (G)A101 1461-410 NA GEAR, speedo drive to end of GB engine 1

310-570 $3.15 NUT 1500 from 1461-355 $0.65 LOCK WASHER (e) GD101 1461-410 NA GEAR, speedo drive 1

461-410 NA GEAR, speedo drive 1600 & MKII 1

The MGA rear oil seal changed three times. The first tailpieces were fitted with an internal flush seal made up of steel and rubber. The later, and by far most common 1500s used aflanged seal that mounted over the tailpiece end. The last change incorporated an internalflush fit seal similar to the first. Some care is needed to determine which seal is appropriatefor your car, as the parts found in any particular MGA today are not always the same partswith which the car left the factory.

87 327-010 $0.50 KEY 188 461-430 NA PINION, speedo drive 189 461-440 NA PINION HOUSING 190 461-445 $5.95 SEAL, pinion 191 461-460 NA RING 192 324-820 NA WASHER 193 461-470 $229.95 FIRST GEAR ASS’Y., with hub 194 461-480 $44.95 SECOND GEAR, improved type

(use with #461-495 synchro ring only)96 329-550 $1.10 BALL 697 329-260 $2.80 SPRING 698 461-490 $28.95 SYNCHRO RING, 2nd gear, brass

(use with original gear only) 1461-495 NA SYNCHRO RING, 2nd gear, steel

(use with #461-480 gear only) 199 461-500 $68.95 BUSHING, 2nd gear 1

Another source of lost motion is worn pedal clevises, and the slave cylinder rod and clevis.These should be replaced when wear becomes apparent, as a relatively small amount ofmovement works the entire system.

100 461-510 $99.95 THIRD GEAR 1101 461-520 $29.90 SYNCHRO RING, 3rd & 4th gear 2102 461-530 $41.75 BUSHING, 3rd gear 1103 461-540 $10.95 RING, interlocking 1104 461-550 $69.95 SLIDING HUB AND DOG ASSEMBLY 1108 461-560 $25.95 SHAFT, laygear 1109 461-570 $269.95 LAYGEAR 1111 461-580 $6.25 TUBE, bearing spacer 1110 461-878 $46.95 BEARING KIT 1113 326-190 $0.75 CIRCLIP 3114 461-590 $9.95 THRUST WASHER, front 1

early 1500 (cup type)A=2 1/2”part #121-000

mid 1500A=2 1/8”part #120-400

late 1500 & all 1600A=3 1/4”part #121-100


0

22

Front Suspension



200-220‡ $31.95 WHEEL NUT, wire wheel, L/H 2NA ‡ Note: 1

33 264-280 $62.95 SPRING PAN 234 264-020 $14.95 WISHBONE ARM, lower 435 321-578 $5.60 BOLT & NUT SET (8), wishbone arms to spring pans 137 454-990 NA ANTI-SWAY BAR ASS’Y. 138 280-605 $5.75 BUSH, swaybar 240 324-450 $4.05 WASHER 241 311-450 $2.95 NUT, R/H (r/h thread) 1

311-460 $4.35 NUT, L/H (l/h thread) 142 264-800 $194.95 SHOCK ABSORBER, front, new 2

264-805 $84.95 SHOCK ABSORBER, rebuilt, exchange 2$40.00 CORE CHARGE FOR 264-805 SHOCK ABSORBER

43 264-530 $1.15 STUD 844 310-050 $0.45 NUT 846 264-070* $3.95 STEEL TUBE 447 324-510* $1.15 THRUST WASHER 849 264-010* $0.85 SEAL SUPPORT 850 264-100 $43.95 COIL SPRING all except Twin Cam & MKII De Luxe 2

264-390 $29.95 COIL SPRING Twin Cam & MKII DeLuxe 251 321-568* $6.95 BOLT & NUT, upper 252 310-405* $0.95 NUT, castellated 254 264-270 $79.95 PIVOT 255 321-618 $1.00 BOLT & NUT 856 281-398*† $8.95 BUSHING SET (8) as original 1

280-498 $14.95 BUSHING SET, heavy-duty rubber/steel bush set as fitted toMGB V8s, recommended. (Incl. in major suspension kit #264-348.) 1

57 264-510 $0.95 WASHER 458 310-410 $1.00 NUT 459 321-558* $5.60 BOLT & NUT, lower 259a 310-405* $0.95 NUT, castellated 260 264-290 $15.95 REBOUND BUFFER 261 264-060 $5.95 SPACER, rebound buffer 262 264-358 $119.95 MAJOR SUSPENSION KIT includes all * items 1

264-348 $114.95 MAJOR SUSPENSION KIT includes all * items, withheavy-duty MGB V8 lower bushes, instead of stock bushes. 1

281-768 $59.95 SUSPENSION RUBBER KIT includes all “†” items onthis page and page 25. 1

1 264-160 NA STEERING KNUCKLE, R/H 1500 to (c)54246 1264-170 NA STEERING KNUCKLE, L/H 1

264-670 NA STEERING KNUCKLE, R/H from (c)54247 1264-680 NA STEERING KNUCKLE, L/H 1

2 264-220 $112.50 SWIVEL PIN, R/H 1264-230 $112.50 SWIVEL PIN, L/H 1

3 264-180 $104.50 LINK, top R/H 1264-190 $104.50 LINK, top L/H 1

4 264-200 $104.50 LINK, bottom R/H 1264-210 $104.50 LINK, bottom L/H 1

5 330-140* $6.90 BUSHING 46 328-210 $0.30 PLUG 47 281-388*† $12.95 SEAL SET, 4 pin seals, 8 link seals 18 328-550 $1.50 GREASE NIPPLE 49 264-570 NA LEVER, L/H 1500 to (c)54246 1

264-575 NA LEVER, L/H 1500 from (c)54247 1264-700 NA LEVER, L/H 1600 & MKII 1264-560 NA LEVER, R/H 1500 to (c)54246 1264-565 NA LEVER, R/H 1500 from (c)54247 1264-690 NA LEVER, R/H 1600 & MKII 1

10 327-060 $0.60 KEY 211 310-400 $0.85 NUT 1500 to (c)54246 2

310-500 $1.55 NUT from (c)54247 on 212 264-120 $8.60 CAPdisc wheel 2

13 264-080 $24.95 SPACER 214 120-600 $3.95 OIL SEAL 215 125-500 $20.40 BEARING, inner all except Twin Cam 216 264-090 $20.85 SPACER and MKII DeLuxe 217 125-400 $14.95 BEARING, outer 2

18 264-550 NA HUB, disc wheel 1500 2264-745 NA HUB, disc wheel 1600 to (c)69504 2264-750 NA HUB, disc wheel 1600 from (c)69505 & MKII 2

19 264-760 $8.95 STUD all disc wheel 820 264-770 $2.05 LUGNUT 8

27 264-300 $149.95 HUB, wire wheel, R/H 1500 1264-310 $149.95 HUB, wire wheel, L/H 1

264-740 $149.95 HUB, wire wheel, R/H 1600 & MKII 1264-735 $149.95 HUB, wire wheel, L/H 1

28 264-140 $4.95 STUD 1500 12264-400 $2.95 BOLT, hub to disc 1600 & MKII 8

29 264-410 NA RETAINER, grease 230 200-210 $31.95 WHEEL NUT, wire wheel, R/H 2


23

MG

A

Steering



263-100 NA RACK & PINION ASS’Y., left hand drive 11 263-140 NA RACK HOUSING LHD only 12 262-030 $3.45 SEAL, pinion shaft 13 263-160 NA RACK LHD only 14 262-190 $11.95 PAD, rack damper 15 263-020 $4.95 SPRING, rack damper 16 262-120 $1.75 SHIM, .003” A/R7 262-090 $10.20 CAP, rack damper 18 263-040 $1.20 PAD, secondary rack damper 19 263-060 $0.50 SPRING, secondary rack damper 110 324-780 $2.15 WASHER, secondary rack damper 111 263-050 NA CAP, secondary rack damper 112 263-150 NA TIE ROD 213 262-170 $54.95 BALL HOUSING, male 214 262-100 NA BALL SEAT 215 262-160 $96.95 BALL HOUSING, female 216 262-130 $1.09 SHIM, .003” A/R

262-140 NA SHIM, .005” A/R262-150 $1.10 SHIM, .010” A/R

17 310-490 $1.15 LOCK NUT, tie rod 218 262-110 $5.95 LOCK WASHER 219 263-170 NA PINION LHD only 120 263-220 NA THRUST WASHER, upper 121 262-040 NA THRUST WASHER, lower 122 262-230 NA PINION BEARING CAP 123 262-010 $2.40 SHIM, .005” A/R

262-020 $3.25 SHIM, .007” A/R24 322-040 $0.50 BOLT 226 263-010 $9.50 RACK SEAL 227 263-230 $1.40 CLAMP, large 228 262-200 $0.75 CLAMP, small 229 263-288 $27.95 TIE ROD END, pair 130 262-220 $2.85 BOOT 231 262-210 $2.00 CLIP 232 263-240 NA RING 233 324-580 $0.10 WASHER 234 310-320 $0.80 NUT, nyloc 235 328-550 $1.50 GREASE NIPPLE 236 328-550 $1.50 GREASE NIPPLE, rack tube 237 263-130 $1.95 SHIM, steering rack ass’y. to brackets A/R38 321-588 $2.50 BOLT SET, 4 nuts & bolts 141 263-090 $89.95 COUPLING JOINT ASS’Y. 142 263-260 $15.95 U-JOINT 143 321-598 $0.50 BOLT & NUT SET 248 263-250 $174.95 STEERING WHEEL, original type 1

Moss spring spoke steering wheels are super quality reproductions that are actually betterthan the factory originals! Our wheels incorporate superior attention to detail and usemodern (yet vintage feeling) crack-resistant plastic that is far more durable than the original– our centerpiece is also an excellent reproduction! (Centerpiece not included.)

49 263-110 $27.65 CENTERPIECE, as original 150 263-200 $0.50 CLIP 451 263-080 $4.65 NUT, wheel to shaft 152 263-120 $13.95 CLAMP 253 263-300 $3.50 DISTANCE PIECE 254 321-608 $0.85 BOLT AND NUT 258 263-310 $3.25 SEAL, column & blanking plate 2

59 NA OUTER TUBE adjustable column 160 260-170 $8.20 FELT BUSH, upper 1

260-190 $5.10 FELT BUSH, upper non-adjustable column 161 260-160 $9.10 FELT BUSH, lower all 162 263-065 NA SHAFT non-adjustable column 1

63 263-070 NA SHAFT 164 327-080 $3.95 KEY 165 263-320 $9.95 CHROME CLAMP, w/ bolt & nut adjustable column 166 NA INNER TUBE 167 262-250 $16.95 CHROME SPRING COVER 168 262-240 $4.25 CAP, for cover 1

Front End RebuildThe four trunnion bushes (#330-140) must be pressed into the trunnions and reamed to size.If you are not equipped with a press and reamer, it is advisable to leave this job to a reliablemachinist. Hammering the new bush into the trunnion will distort it and may crack thetrunnion itself. Never attempt to remove or replace the trunnions with the tubes (#264-070)in place. Damage to swivel pin threads will result if you do.The lower link bolt holes in the wishbone arms (#264-020) must not be worn oval. Extra playintroduced by this condition causes premature tire wear and makes it impossible to align thefront end. Left long enough, this can be dangerous, as the link bolts will have a groove wornin them.The MGA steering rack is to be lubricated with 90 wt. oil, not front end grease. The smallpom-pom gun that is in so much demand by tool collectors is actually an oil gun and is usedto fill the rack. (See accessories section for replacement oil gun.)Front end clunks are caused by loose parts such as A-arm pivots, lower trunnion bolts orshock mounting bolts. A sharp cracking noise is sometimes caused by a stone caught underthe coil spring in the spring pan.



0

24

Rear Axle


Rear Hub Nut SocketYour local hardware store or travelling tool salesmanwon’t have this special 8-sided 1 61/64” socket for yourrear axle hub nuts. This invaluable tool is a modern andaffordable replacement for the hard to find and veryexpensive Churchill tool #18G152. (Socket has a 3/4”square drive hole, so you will need an adaptor unlessyou have 3/4” drive tools.

384-905 $27.90

1 267-440* $17.95 NUT, L/H (L/H thread) see note below 1267-430* $17.95 NUT, R/H (R/H thread) 1/2

* Note: 1500 to (c)11540 used #267-430 (R/H thread) on both sides. All later cars used one #267-430 on the right side, and one #267-440 on the left side.

2 267-450 $1.50 TAB WASHER 23 319-060 $2.95 PLUG, oil drain & filler 24 267-040 $2.75 BREATHER 1

Remember to clean the breather on top of your rear axle housing every so often. (It unscrews from the axle housing.) If it gets clogged, pressure builds up inside the housing, forcing oil past the pinion and hub seals.

5 296-200 $0.80 GASKET 16 267-060 $36.40 DIFFERENTIAL CARRIER 18 127-700 $37.50 BEARING, carrier 29 267-150 NA WASHER, bearing packing, .002” A/R

267-155 NA WASHER, bearing packing, .113” A/R267-160 NA WASHER, bearing packing, .004” A/R267-170 NA WASHER, bearing packing, .006” A/R

10 267-070 $24.95 DIFFERENTIAL GEAR 1500 (10 spline) 2

267-080 NA DIFFERENTIAL GEAR 1600 to (c)82892 disc wheel, (26 spline,1.115” dia.) to (c)82748 wire wheel 2

267-090 $42.95 DIFFERENTIAL GEAR 1600 from (c)82893 disc wheel,(25 spline, 1.075” dia.) from (c)82749 wire wheel 2

11 267-140 $3.00 THRUST WASHER, differential gear 212 267-100 $34.95 PINION, differential 213 267-130 $3.10 THRUST WASHER, differential pinion 214 267-110 $39.95 AXLE, pinion 115 267-120 NA LOCKING PIN, pinion axle 116 320-640 $1.15 BOLT, crown wheel to carrier 817 267-220 NA TAB WASHER 418 267-180 NA GEAR SET, standard, (4.300:1) 1

267-185 $249.95 GEAR SET, optional, (4.555:1) requires special flange below 1267-165 $249.95 GEAR SET, optional, (3.909:1) requires special flange below 1266-340 $97.50 FLANGE for replacement gear sets above only 1

19 267-320 NA THRUST WASHER, pinion, .126” A/R267-310 $5.95 THRUST WASHER, pinion, .124” A/R267-300 $5.50 THRUST WASHER, pinion, .122” A/R267-290 $5.10 THRUST WASHER, pinion, .120” A/R267-280 $5.50 THRUST WASHER, pinion, .118” A/R267-270 NA THRUST WASHER, pinion, .116” A/R267-260 $5.95 THRUST WASHER, pinion, .114” A/R267-250 $5.95 THRUST WASHER, pinion, .112” A/R

20 125-600 $39.95 PINION BEARING, inner 121 267-230 $7.60 SPACER 1

22 125-805 $20.55 PINION BEARING, outer 125 267-330 $1.35 SHIM, outer bearing, .004” A/R

267-340 $2.25 SHIM, outer bearing, .006” A/R267-345 $0.95 SHIM, outer bearing, .008” A/R267-350 $0.95 SHIM, outer bearing, .010” A/R267-360 $1.80 SHIM, outer bearing, .012” A/R267-370 $0.70 SHIM, outer bearing, .020” A/R267-380 $1.30 SHIM, outer bearing, .030” A/R

26 120-800 $2.95 OIL SEAL, pinion 127 267-240 NA DUST COVER 128 267-390 NA FLANGE 129 324-100 $0.40 WASHER 130 310-570 $3.15 NUT 133 328-260 $0.70 PLUG 234 453-320 $199.95 AXLE, wire wheel 1500 2

453-340 $229.95 AXLE, wire wheel 1600 to (c)82748 2453-350 $186.95 AXLE, wire wheel 1600 from (c)82749 2

35 267-485 $139.95 REAR HUB, R/H wire wheel 1267-480 $149.95 REAR HUB, L/H wire wheel 1

36 453-310 NA AXLE, disc wheel-10 spline 1500 2453-330 NA AXLE, disc wheel-26 spline 1600 to (c)82892 2453-360 $119.95 AXLE, disc wheel-25 spline 1600 from (c)82893 2

37 267-400 NA HUB, disc wheel 2267-490 NA HUB, wire wheel 2

38 267-410 $3.45 STUD, disc wheel 8267-500 $8.35 STUD, wire wheel 8

39 264-770 $2.05 NUT, disc wheel 8310-300 $0.75 NUT, brake drum to hub wire wheel 8

40 296-100 $0.90 GASKET, rear hub 243 121-405 $2.15 O-RING 1500 2

121-400 $1.95 O-RING 1600 244 120-900 $3.50 OIL SEAL 245 127-600 $39.95 BEARING, hub 246 267-420 $37.95 SPACER disc wheel 247 267-050 NA HOUSING, differential 1

Driveshaft50 268-010 $24.95 FLANGE 1600 uses 2 1/251 321-858 $5.25 BOLT & NUT SET, driveshaft flange 1/252 268-060 $14.95 U-JOINT 253 328-540 $1.60 GREASE NIPPLE, U-joint 254 268-050* NA YOKE, front 1500 1

55 268-020 $52.75 YOKE, front 156 328-530 $0.85 GREASE NIPPLE, yoke 157 NA SEAL, corks 1600 and MKII 158 268-045 NA WASHER, steel 159 268-035 $5.25 DUST CAP with rubber seal #57 (washer #58 not req’d.) 1

* Note: Some cars between (c)61037 and 61503 were fitted with the later type yoke and driveshaft.


25

MG

A

Rear Suspension & Driveshaft

385-930 $25.15 Jack Bag (not illustrated)

385-940 $7.65 ea. Tool Roll Strap 2 required.

385-920 $31.45 Tool Roll(tools not included!)


No. Part Price Description Application Qty.No. (each) Req.Rear Suspension

1 454-840 $67.95 LEAF SPRING 22 267-510 $8.25 SILENTBLOC BUSHING 22a 320-460 $9.05 BOLT, spring center 23 321-738 $2.85 BOLT & NUT 25 267-520 $15.95 SHACKLE PIN & PLATE 26 267-530 $5.30 SHACKLE PLATE 27 310-050 $0.45 NUT, shackle & u-bolt 208 282-858† $9.95 BUSHING SET, shackle pins 19 267-550 $6.95 U-BOLT 410 267-560 $8.95 BUFFER PLATE, U-bolt 211 267-570 $6.70 PLATE 412 281-598† $7.75 PAD SET, rubber 115 267-590 $28.95 BRACKET, R/H 1

267-600 $28.95 BRACKET, L/H 116 267-650 $9.45 BUMP RUBBER 217 267-610 $8.95 CHECK STRAP 220 267-620 $116.50 SHOCK, right, original Armstrong 1

267-630 $116.50 SHOCK, left, original Armstrong 1

267-635 $84.95 REBUILT SHOCK, right rebuilt/exchange 1$10.00 CORE CHARGE FOR 267-635 REBUILT SHOCK

267-625 $84.95 REBUILT SHOCK, left 1$10.00 CORE CHARGE FOR 267-625 REBUILT SHOCK

21 267-640 $21.95 SHOCK LINK 2322-928 $2.00 BOLT WITH NUT, original shock mounting 2281-768 $59.95 SUSPENSION RUBBER KIT, includes all items marked “†”

on this page, and page 22. 1

Wheel & Tools1 200-230 $21.95 HUB CAP disc wheel 4

2 454-610 $159.95 WIRE WHEEL, painted 5200-328 NA SPOKE & NIPPLE SET 5200-030• $4.75 SPOKE, long, outer 80200-040• $3.95 SPOKE, short, inner 160200-050 $1.20 NIPPLE 15” x 4”, 48 spoke wheels 240454-615 $274.95 WIRE WHEEL, chrome plated factory option 5200-032• $5.85 SPOKE, long, outer 80200-042• $5.85 SPOKE, short, inner 160200-052 $1.35 NIPPLE 240

454-620 $159.95 WIRE WHEEL, painted 5200-070• $4.95 SPOKE, long, outer 100200-060• $4.95 SPOKE, short, inner 200200-050 $1.20 NIPPLE 15” x 41/2”, 60 spoke wheels 300454-630 $274.95 WIRE WHEEL, chrome plated optional 5200-072• $6.05 SPOKE, long, outer 100200-062• $5.70 SPOKE, short, inner 200200-052 $1.35 NIPPLE 300

• Note: Individual spokes are supplied without nipples, which must be purchased separately.

3 452-750 $10.50 RIM BAND wire wheels 54 452-755 $19.95 INNER TUBE 155-165/15 tires 5

5 200-210 $31.95 WHEEL NUT, R/H, eared knock-off 2200-220 $31.95 WHEEL NUT, L/H, eared knock-off cwire wheels 2

6 200-310** $32.65 WHEEL NUT, L/H, octagonal knock-off 2200-320** $32.65 WHEEL NUT, R/H, octagonal knock-off 2

**Octagonal "safety" knock-offs are required in some countries. Use with spanner#386-030 (illus. #18).

7 264-770 $2.05 LUGNUT 169 386-000 $23.95 WHEEL HAMMER, copper-faced, as original, 11/2 lbs. 1

386-110 $29.95 WHEEL HAMMER, copper/rawhide, 2 lbs. 110 385-80O $14.95 SPOKE WRENCH 113 386-080 $3.90 HUB CAP REMOVER 114 386-900 $114.95 JACK, includes 2-piece handle & tommy bar 115 387-008 $12.00 TIRE IRON SET 116 386-100 $28.95 HAND CRANK, faithful repro. of original 117 386-935 $15.95 LUG WRENCH disc wheels 118 386-030 $7.95 SPANNER for octagonal knock-offs 1



0

26

Brake Controls


52 181-250 $2.10 SPRING 153 181-260 $6.30 BUSH 154 181-270 $14.95 ROD ASSEMBLY 155 181-470 NA PAWL 156 181-280 $149.95 HANDLE & SHAFT ASS’Y. 157 181-290 $4.95 HAND GRIP 160 181-480 NA RATCHET 161 181-630 $2.95 BUSH 262 322-918 $0.80 BOLT WITH NUT 163 181-490 NA LEVER 1

The master cylinder has a non-return valve in the brake side only. Make sure when rebuildingyour cylinder that you double check the placement of this valve. It is common to forget thelarge rubber washer in the brake side of the cylinder or overlook it completely whendisassembling the unit. Avoid this problem by reminding yourself that the clutch is on the leftwhen the cylinder is mounted on the firewall and on the right when looking at the front of thecylinder.

64 181-540 $4.35 NUT 165 181-530 $3.95 TRUNNION 166 324-115 $0.55 WASHER 167 324-590 $0.25 WASHER 168 329-130 $1.00 SPRING 170 331-100 $16.50 HANDBRAKE CABLE disc wheel 1

331-130 $15.50 HANDBRAKE CABLE wire wheel 171 181-550 $0.55 CLIP, cable to battery carrier 172 181-620 $9.15 CLIP, cable to axle bracket 173 596-165 $0.80 CLEVIS PIN 274 181-500 $3.40 FULCRUM 175 181-510 $10.20 LEVER, cable equalizing 176 181-520 $17.75 LEVER, cable equalizing 177 330-190 $7.35 BUSHING 1

* See body rubber sets on pages 32.

MGA brakes are efficient, long-wearing and reliable. However, now that some MGAs are over40 years old and some cars have been driven hundreds of thousands of miles...don’t take thesafety of your brakes for granted! Brakes can fail without warning due to an old rupturedbrake hose, rusted brake pipe or leaking wheel cylinder. Genuine Lockheed brake componentsare not very expensive and provide cheap insurance and peace of mind!

1 180-670† $329.95 MASTER CYLINDER, 7/8” bores 1500 1180-750† $329.95 MASTER CYLINDER, 7/8” bores 1600 & MKII 1

† Note: The two master cylinders are identical except for the covers. The 1500 mastercylinder, #180-670, includes the correct 1500 cover. Because of Lockheed productionchanges, the 1600 master cylinder no longer includes the cover, but does come with coverscrews and gasket so you can reuse your own. Some cars may be found with Sprite/Midget3/4” bore master cylinders. Measure your cylinder bores before ordering internal parts!2 180-970 $11.95 REBUILD KIT 13 180-450 $3.45 WASHER, filler cap 14 180-210 $2.60 FILLER CAP 15 323-500 $1.00 SCREW 78 NA COVER 1500 19 180-260 NA COVER 1600 & MKII 110 180-270 $3.00 GASKET 111 180-030 $1.95 SPRING 212 NA PISTON 213 180-195 NA VALVE, non-return brake side only 115 180-020 $1.70 GASKET 116 180-010 $39.95 PLATE 1

20 180-400 $8.95 ADAPTOR, slave cylinder pipe 121 324-730 $0.35 WASHER, copper 122 324-720 $0.95 WASHER, copper, small 123 180-050 $25.95 BANJO for clutch pipe 124 324-740 $0.80 WASHER, copper, large 125 180-390 $7.95 BANJO BOLT 1

26 180-040 $9.95 PUSH ROD, does not include fork 227 310-150 $0.70 NUT 428 180-300 $11.95 FORK, push rod to pedal 229 280-710* $9.95 EXCLUDER, fume & dust all with dual master cylinder 1

280-715 $24.95 EXCLUDER, fume & dust Twin Cam & MKII DeLuxe 130 181-640* $2.95 RUBBER BLANKING PLATE, passenger side 131 181-650 $6.50 RETAINING PLATE 236 280-770* $2.95 PEDAL PAD, brake & clutch 237 329-350 $2.45 SPRING, pedal return 238 190-625 $4.15 SPACER 239 330-180 $3.35 BUSHING, pedal 240 321-648 $1.35 BOLT & NUT 141 325-150 $0.90 CLEVIS PIN 251 181-350 $8.95 KNOB 1


27

MG

A

Brakes

If your brake pedal pulsates or the car shudders under braking, it's likely that your brakerotors are distorted. Accurate measurement of the disc rotor thickness is essential. A dialgauge can be easily set up to check the brake rotor ‘run out’ with the rotor and hub on thecar. Use a micrometer to check the rotor thickness. The MGA rotor must not ‘run out’ morethan .003”. The thickness should be parallel within .001". Light scoring of rotors is notdetrimental provided it is concentric. If a rotor is to be turned, no more than .040” should beremoved. After turning, the rotor must not be less than .330” thick.

Anti-squeal StripsSometimes disc brakes just won’t shut up. These foillined self-adhesive strips stick onto the back of thebrake pads to dampen the vibrations which cause brakesqueal. Set of four.

583-805 $2.95



117 180-180 $1.45 SPRING 2118 180-190 $1.95 EXPANDER 2119 NA LEVER 2120 180-240 NA PIN 2121 180-160 $39.95 ABUTMENT 2122 180-130 $7.95 BANJO BOLT 2123 324-720 $0.95 WASHER, large copper 2

124 180-425 NA BANJO (straight) 1500 to (c)27989 disc wheelor (c)28540 wire wheel 2

180-460 $19.95 BANJO (90° angle) from (c)27990 disc wheel(c)28541 wire wheel 2

125 324-730 $0.35 WASHER, copper (small) 2

126 182-180 $72.95 BRAKE DISC 2180-510 NA CALIPER ASS’Y., R/H 1180-520 NA CALIPER ASS’Y., L/H 1

130 180-420 NA CALIPER BODY, R/H 1180-410 NA CALIPER BODY, L/H 1

131 180-740 $63.95 PISTON 4132 180-980 $9.95 REBUILD KIT see important notes on page 28 2133 182-210 $39.95 PAD SET 1600, front disc brakes 1134 180-290 $3.60 RETAINER 2135 180-280 $2.95 PIN 2136 180-285 $1.15 O-RING, fluid channel 2137 310-140 $0.35 NUT 4138 181-305 $15.95 LOCK PLATE, R/H 1

181-315 $13.25 LOCK PLATE, L/H 1

139 180-255 $13.15 BOLT, caliper mounting 2

81 264-790 $119.95 BRAKE DRUM, rear & 1500 disc wheel, front 2/4

82 264-520 $4.25 PLUG, 1/2” A/R264-525 $4.25 PLUG, 3/4” disc wheels A/R

83 323-250 $0.65 SCREW, front 1/2” 1500 disc wheels 4323-255 $0.60 SCREW, rear 5/8” disc wheel 4

83a 310-300 $0.75 NUT, rear 1500 & 1600 wire wheel 884 182-150 $39.95 SHOE SET, 4 shoes 1/2

85 181-450 $5.95 RETURN SPRING 486 322-020 $3.35 BOLT, plate to steering knuckle 887 310-050 $0.45 NUT 1500 8/1688 NA BRAKE PLATE, R/H front 1

NA BRAKE PLATE, L/H front 1

89 267-460 $1.75 TAB WASHER, for #264-790 drum 4/8

90 264-780 $136.45 BRAKE DRUM, front 1500 wire wheel 291 311-778 $3.95 NUT SET (12 nuts) (disc wheel uses 192 264-150 $1.95 TAB WASHER (uses drum #81) 6

93 328-390 $0.45 PLUG, 1/2” A/R328-400 $0.60 PLUG, 3/4” wire wheels A/R

94 181-460 $2.95 RETURN SPRING, thin 295 181-450 $5.95 RETURN SPRING, thick 296 181-340 $3.35 ANTI RATTLE SPRING 497 322-030 $1.00 BOLT all rear 898 NA BRAKE PLATE, R/H rear 1

NA BRAKE PLATE, L/H rear 1

100 180-640 $25.95 WHEEL CYLINDER, R/H front 2180-650 $25.95 WHEEL CYLINDER, L/H front 2180-458 $24.95 REPAIR KIT 1

102 180-180 $1.45 SPRING 4103 180-170 $3.15 EXPANDER 1500 4104 180-940 $4.30 CUP & RING front drum brakes 4105 180-140 $7.95 MASK 2/6106 180-150 $23.95 ADJUSTER 2/6108 322-880 $0.60 BOLT, large 4109 322-400 $1.95 BOLT, small 4

110 180-340 $6.95 BLEEDER, rear 1500 to (c)27989 (disc wheel)(c)28540 (wire wheel) 4

180-100 $2.60 BLEEDER, front & rear 1500 from above, 1600 & MkII 4/6

115 180-630 $42.95 WHEEL CYLINDER, rear, less boot 2180-470 $27.95 REPAIR KIT 1

116 180-950 $10.70 CUP & BOOT, boot not included w/ complete cylinder 2



0

28

Brake Pipes


181-185 $11.95 PIPE, 3-way to L/R cyl., wire 1500 to (c)28539 1181-170 $11.95 PIPE, 3-way to L/R cyl., wire from 1500 (c)28540 1

20 181-230 $9.40 PIPE, 4-way to R/F hose 1500 1181-160 $8.95 PIPE, 4-way to R/F hose 1600 & MKII 1

21 181-240 $12.95 PIPE, 4-way to L/F hose 1500 1181-190 $12.95 PIPE, 4-way to L/F hose 1600 & MKII 1

22 181-900 $2.95 STRAP, pipe to axle 123 181-660 $4.35 LOCKING PLATE 1600 & MKII 225 182-615 NA CLIP, pipe to frame 426 182-635 $1.05 CLIP, pipe to differential case 127 141-700 $19.95 BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH 1

220-400 $3.95 BRITISH BRAKE FLUID, 1 pint A/R220-410 $24.95 SILICONE BRAKE FLUID, 1 quart A/R

1 589-010 $62.40 FITTING, 5-way (replacement, includes switch ) 1

2 589-040 $21.95 FITTING, 3-way 1500 to (c)27988 discwheel, 28539 wire 1

180-090 $10.95 FITTING, 3-way from 1500 (c)27989 discwheel, 28540 wire 1

3 180-830 $19.95 HOSE, front brake 1500 24 180-890 $27.45 HOSE, front brake 1600 & MKII 25 180-830 $19.95 HOSE, rear brake all 16 324-180 $0.30 WASHER 1/37 324-730 $0.35 WASHER, copper 38 311-420 $1.70 NUT 1500 uses 3 1/311 310-230 $0.35 NUT 2

12 324-045 $0.30 LOCK WASHER 213 324-720 $0.95 WASHER, copper 1600 & MKII 214 180-430 $5.35 BANJO BOLT 2

183-008 $77.95 BRAKE PIPE SET, LHD 1500 to (c)27988 disc whl.(c)28539 wire whl. 1

183-048 $77.95 BRAKE PIPE SET, LHD 1500 from (c)27989 disc,(c)28540 wire whl. 1

183-088 $77.95 BRAKE PIPE SET, LHD 1600 & MKII 115 181-200 $14.20 PIPE, master cyl. to 4-way LHD only 1

181-215 NA PIPE, master cyl. to 4-way RHD only 116 181-140 $7.95 PIPE, between front wheel cyl. 1500 217 181-220 $16.95 PIPE, 4-way to rear hose 1

18 181-155 $7.95 PIPE, 3-way to R/R cylinder 1500 to (c)27988 discwheel (c)28539 wire 1

181-145 $8.40 PIPE, 3-way to R/R cylinder from 1500 (c)27989disc wheel, (c)28540 wire 1

19 181-070 $12.70 PIPE, 3-way to L/R cyl., disc 1500 to (c)27988 1181-180 $11.95 PIPE, 3-way to L/R cyl., disc from 1500 (c)27989 1

Caliper Rebuild Kit Notes

Do not confuse the dust seals with the fluid seals in the #180-980 caliper rebuild kit. The larger ring with the “V” groove is the dust seal. It is virtually impossible to install the piston in the caliper with the seals in the wrong grooves.

Warning: The metal seal retainers and seals in rebuild kits are of modified design. Themetal retainers must be installed differently than the originals, and differently thanshown in the workshop manual. Refer to the drawing below for correct installation.Lockheed made this design improvement years ago. The metal seal retainer is easilydamaged. Make sure that it is pressed into place using equal pressure at opposite sides.


29

MG

A

Chassis



27 456-040 $339.95 EXTENSION ASS’Y., front frame 130 455-800 $20.95 FLOORBOARD RAIL, R/H footwell side 1

455-810 $20.95 FLOORBOARD RAIL, L/H footwell side 131 455-820 $12.95 FLOORBOARD RAIL, R/H toeboard front 1

455-830 $12.95 FLOORBOARD RAIL, L/H toeboard front 132 455-840 $16.85 FLOORBOARD RAIL, R/H footwell rear 1

455-850 $16.85 FLOORBOARD RAIL, L/H footwell real 134 455-865 $35.95 CROSSMEMBER 235 455-900 $17.95 FLOORBOARD RAIL, R/H front 1

455-910 $17.95 FLOORBOARD RAIL, L/H front 136 455-920 $18.60 FLOORBOARD RAIL, R/H side 1

455-930 $18.60 FLOORBOARD RAIL, L/H side 137 455-940 $17.75 REPAIR KIT, R/H rear corner, 3 pcs. 1

455-950 $17.75 REPAIR KIT, L/H rear corner, 3 pcs. 138 455-960 $16.65 FLOORBOARD RAIL, R/H rear 1

455-970 $16.65 FLOORBOARD RAIL, L/H rear 139 455-980 $21.85 REPAIR PANEL, inner sides of frame 2

Frame condition is a determining factor in deciding how far to go with your restoration. Mostof the rust damage will occur on the passenger side of the car from the footwell to the rearsupport tube. A seriously rusted frame will be completely perforated or have large sectionscompletely missing in this area. Moss frame repair sections will enable you to repair mostframe problems yourself. Cut away the remaining damaged metal and clamp the repair parts in place. Tack weld andtrial fit an entire section before any final welding is carried out. To avoid warping, weld therails at 2" to 4" intervals working from the center of the piece. An electric welder is best forframe repairs.

1 281-778* $69.95 PACKING SET, body mounting (28 pieces, complete) 1* See pages 32 for Body Rubber Sets.

2 310-050 $0.45 NUT, rear, rebound strap mounting 23 161-800 $2.10 STRAP, tail lamp cable 24 470-800 $37.95 BRACKET, bumper support, front L/H 1

470-810 $37.95 BRACKET, bumper support, front R/H 15 322-040 $0.50 BOLT 66 310-290 $0.35 NUT 67 310-380 $0.85 NUT, front bumper to frame 48 470-820 $1.85 CLIP, battery cable & harness 69 470-830 $0.70 CLIP, tail lamp harness 210 470-260 $79.50 BRACKET, bumper mounting, rear L/H 1

470-250 $79.50 BRACKET, bumper mounting, rear R/H 111 310-390 $0.55 NUT, bumper mounting brackets 212 322-720 $1.20 BOLT, bracket to frame, forward 213 322-730 $1.25 BOLT, bracket to frame, rearward 214 310-300 $0.75 NUT, for #12 & #13 415 470-880 $11.95 SEAL, rear ramp 116 456-945 $179.95 COMPLETE FLOORBOARD SET 1500 to (c)61503 1

456-955 $179.95 COMPLETE FLOORBOARD SET from (c)61504 1456-960 $124.95 MAIN FLOORBOARD SET, items marked ‘A’ only 1

17 323-968 $49.95 SCREW & WASHER SET, floorboard 1

18 473-200 $46.95 R/H BATTERY BRACKET ASS’Y. easily welded to frame 1473-210 $46.95 L/H BATTERY BRACKET ASS’Y. 1

19 470-890 $23.95 L/H COVER PLATE 1470-900 $23.95 R/H COVER PLATE 1

20 326-480 $3.95 RING, shift boot top 121 280-760* $8.95 SHIFT BOOT 122 280-000 $7.65 GASKET 123 280-410* $2.45 PLUG, dipstick hole 124 280-005 $6.95 BUFFER 2

25 280-015 $13.95 COVER, starter drive 1500 from (c)61504,1600 & MKII 1

26 361-080 $12.95 BRACKET, starter switch 1



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1600 MKII

1500-1600

Front Bumper and Grille

321-888 $21.15 FASTENER KIT, front bumper (46 pc. hardware kit) 11 454-880 $87.95 BUMPER ASS’Y., front 3 main sections 12 454-940 $24.95 OVERRIDER 23 322-640 $0.85 BOLT, overrider attaching 25 400-418 $4.25 PACKING SET, overrider to bumper 16 322-900 $1.65 BOLT & NUT, chrome 37 321-708 $2.00 BOLT & NUT, chrome, behind overriders 29 470-970 $5.95 BRACKET, hand crank 110 454-930 $18.95 MAIN SPRING BRACKETS 214 310-380 $0.85 NUT, bumper ass’y. to frame 4

The MGA front bumper, with its complex arrangement of parts, is difficult to mount on thecar without a lot of scratched paint and frustration. This is one of those jobs for which anassistant is needed, if only to make encouraging noises. Make sure that the body bracketsand main spring brackets are not bent. If the spring brackets are, it is practical to buy new,(#454-930) as they are extremely hard to bend back.

Assemble the parts off the car, test fit and adjust any gaps before the unit is tightened up. Asmall jack may be needed to help adjust the bumper. Try to get the gap at the top equalacross the front of the car, especially at the outer edges where the bumper wraps around thefender. Don’t overlook the new rubber grommets and an overrider packing set, #281-578 &#400-418.

16 470-980 $3.45 BRACKET, L/H license plate 117 470-990 $3.45 BRACKET, R/H license plate 118 451-720 $11.95 SUPPORT, number plate 119 453-400 $87.95 BADGE/GRILLE BAR factory option 120 280-690 $1.85 GROMMET 4

21 407-720 $44.95 FOG LAMP BRACKET, L/H chrome, factory option 1407-730 $44.95 FOG LAMP BRACKET, R/H see page39 for fog lamps 1

Moss sells the only reproduction grille shells available, which are now of much better quality than previously. Trimming and fit have improved, and they are now chrome plated brass (as original), instead of steel. While these grilles are acceptable to most owners, they may notsatisfy the most particular concours enthusiast. In this case, we suggest hand-fitting the newgrille prior to painting and then have the custom-trimmed grille replated locally.

25 990-060 $174.95 SHELL & GRILLE ASS’Y., flat 1500 - 1600 126 990-090 $204.95 SHELL & GRILLE ASS’Y., recessed MKII 1

Note: Shell & grille assemblies include numbers 28 thru 31, plus the correct grille #32 or #33, and grille-to-shell bolts and nuts.

28 990-070 $129.95 SHELL, fits both grilles 129 470-110 $29.95 FALSE NOSE 130 326-530 $0.15 SPEED NUT, false nose 131 201-035 $15.95 BADGE 132 990-080 $99.95 GRILLE, flat 1500 & 1600 133 470-100 NA GRILLE, recessed MKII 134 320-940 $1.95 BOLT, grille to shell 2

310-040 $0.15 NUT 535 322-220 $0.25 BOLT, grille ass’y. to body 636 470-120 $4.95 GRILLE PIPING, original silver color 1


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MGA hoods (bonnets) changed subtly over the production period of the cars. Twolengths were made, 47 7/8” and 48 3/8”. This could be the reason that you're havingso much trouble fitting the hood on your car. The hood shape was changed toaccommodate the Twin Cam cam cover, which was higher than the push rod rockerbox. There is a noticeable bump in the middle of these hoods.

It is a good idea to make sure that the hood latch is adjusted and working perfectlybefore the grill is mounted. If the hood sticks, the only way to get it up is to pry at thelip with a screwdriver, or go in through your new grille!

Fender mirrors were dealer-installed items, and were supplied in several styles andmounted wherever the owner wished. The Lucas style fender mirrors are most effectivewhen mounted on the top of the fender just above the front axle. Some people havetrouble seeing the left mirror if mounted closer to the screen. Try various locationsbefore drilling any holes.

Fender welt must be notched to fit around the fender bolts. Do not discard your originalfender welt, use it as a pattern to notch the replacement.

Front Body Fittings

Sidecurtain Anti-Rattle SleeveThis molded rubber sleeve fits over the brackets on theleading edges of the factory-style 1600 and MkII sidecurtains. 280-965 $2.15 Each



40 165-300 $17.95 FENDER MIRROR, L/H convex 1165-500 $17.95 FENDER MIRROR, L/H flat reproduction of round 1165-210 $17.95 FENDER MIRROR, R/H convex Lucas fender mirrors 1165-400 $17.95 FENDER MIRROR, R/H flat 1

40a 280-140 $0.95 PAD, under mirror base A/R41 471-010 $9.95 VENT GRILLE 2

326-588 $3.25 SPEED NUT SET, trim mounting (24 speed nuts) 142 408-410 $8.75 1600 EMBLEM, on front deck & trunk lid 343 408-420 $8.75 1600 MKII EMBLEM, on front deck & trunk lid 344 165-100 $21.95 DASH MIRROR 1

311-030 $0.20 NUT, dash mirror mounting 2323-080 $0.65 SCREW, dash mirror mounting 2

45 472-000 $9.95 FINISHER, defroster slot 246 323-695 $0.95 SCREW, defroster slot finisher 447 363-195 $3.45 SEAL, felt (between defroster box & underside of dash) 248 200-230 $21.95 HUB CAP disc wheels 4

281-848 $36.70 GROMMET SET, completeVirtually every rubber grommet found on an MGA! (51 pieces) 1

49 281-808 $34.50 GROMMET SET, firewall, heater box shelf area (41 pieces) 150 281-818 $8.25 GROMMET SET, wiring other than heater shelf (9 pieces) 151 281-628 $6.95 HOOD BUFFER SET, 10 buffers 152 280-410 $2.45 TRANSMISSION COVER PLUG 153 241-00 $20.95 ASHTRAY, as original factory option 154 280-760 $8.95 SHIFT BOOT 155 326-480 $3.95 RING, chrome 156 470-950 $14.95 PROP ROD 157 329-165 NA SPRING 158 365-720 $0.25 WASHER 159 471-130 $4.95 CLIP, prop rod 160 470-640 $19.95 SAFETY CATCH, hood 161 470-930 $17.95 BRACKET, safety catch 162 329-280 $4.75 SPRING 163 470-610 $3.15 CUP 164 470-620 $9.95 PIN 165 470-940 $2.35 GUIDE PLATE 166 329-175 $5.45 SPRING 167 249-738 $16.20 FENDER PIPING, enough for 4 fenders, original silver color 170 470-918 $54.95 HOOD HINGE SET 171 472-560 $8.95 FELT PAD (glues on hood above radiator tank) 1



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Rear Body Fittings


321-898 $26.20 FASTENER KIT, rear bumper, 1(58 piece bumper mounting hardware kit)

1 453-170 $87.95 BUMPER FACE BAR 12 454-940 $24.95 OVERRIDER 23 322-630 $0.65 BOLT, overrider attaching 24 400-418 $4.25 PACKING SET, overrider to bumper (does 4 overriders) 15 322-900* $1.65 BOLT & NUT, chrome, ends of bumper 28 322-080* $2.25 BOLT & NUT, chrome, center of bumper 2

*these also include lockwasher9 454-950 $12.95 MAIN SPRING BRACKET 210 280-690 $1.85 GROMMET 211 310-380 $0.85 NUT 213 451-285 $19.75 BACKING PLATE, license plate 114 451-290 $22.95 MAIN BRACKET, license plate 115 406-600 $10.75 LAMP BRACKET 118 470-190 $19.95 GAS CAP 119 326-730 $3.95 ‘LIFT’ LEVER, gas cap 120 470-210 $1.85 SEAL, top of filler neck 121 280-780 $3.95 FERRULE, filler pipe to body 122 282-720 $1.95 SEAL, filler neck, on trunk floor 123 470-195 $7.65 CLAMPING PLATE 124 453-000 $43.95 CLAMP, spare tire 125 453-005 $7.35 WING NUT 126 453-015 $10.95 BOLT 127 453-025 $1.40 PIN, pivot 132 329-165 NA SPRING 133 365-720 $0.25 WASHER 135 453-245 $7.25 PACKING, spare tire (felt), pair 137 280-714 $10.95 TRUNK SEAL 140 326-588 $3.25 SPEED NUT SET, trim mounting (24 pieces) 141 408-410 $8.75 ‘1600’ EMBLEM, on trunk lid & front deck 342 408-420 $8.75 ‘1600 MKII’ EMBLEM, on trunk lid & front deck 343 470-698 $10.75 ‘MG’ EMBLEM SET, 3 pieces w/ speed nuts 1

326-500 $0.15 SPEED NUT for emblem 1347 249-738 $16.20 FENDER PIPING, original silver color (does 4 fenders) 148 470-747 $4.95 RETAINER, chrome 249 470-757 $2.25 WASHER, cup 250 471-100 $14.95 CLIP, hand crank 351 280-680 $2.15 DOOR BUFFER coupe uses 2 4/252 470-490 $3.25 TAPPING PLATE, door buffers coupe uses 2 4/2

53 323-080 $0.65 SCREW, tapping plate coupe uses 2 4/254 471-110 $1.25 FERRULE, trunk lid release rod 155 471-120 $2.95 CHANNEL, release rod 156 244-700 $209.95 LUGGAGE RACK, repro. of factory option 157 453-900 NA PROP ROD, trunk lid 158 457-475 $6.75 CLIP, prop rod 159 470-015 NA ROD, trunk release 160 470-075 $10.95 PLATE, rod guide 161 470-065 $11.95 LEVER, trunk release 162 470-025 $17.95 ROD, rear 165 470-918 $54.95 TRUNK LID HINGE SET 166 470-705 NA TRUNK LOCK 170 406-170 $0.65 WASHER, bumper bar to bracket 271 406-190 $1.95 SPACER, large 272 406-180 $1.75 SPACER, small 273 324-655 $0.40 WASHER, large 474 NA WASHER, rubber 4

Save time and money! The following body rubber sets include virtually every rubber part needed to restore an MGA body, from headlamp seals to tail lamp pads, at considerable savings over total individual prices. Sets include items listed below and on the facing page.

281-708 $189.95 BODY RUBBER SET 1500 roadster 1281-718 $289.95 BODY RUBBER SET 1500 coupe 1281-728 $199.95 BODY RUBBER SET 1600 roadster 1281-738 $299.95 BODY RUBBER SET 1600 coupe 1281-748 $179.95 BODY RUBBER SET MKII roadster 1281-758 $274.95 BODY RUBBER SET MKII coupe 1281-108 $16.95 HEADLAMP SEAL SET 1280-120 $4.75 SEAL, headlamp rim 2280-130 $5.95 PAD, headlamp to fender 2280-540 $3.60 PAD, license plate lamp 1280-680 $2.15 DOOR BUFFER coupe uses 2 4/2280-710 $9.95 EXCLUDER, pedal 1280-714 $10.95 TRUNK SEAL 1280-760 $8.95 GEARSHIFT BOOT 1280-780 $3.95 FERRULE, around filler neck 1


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Rear Body Fittings

The 1500 style tail lampswere common to manyBritish cars of the period.

The 1500 style grille hasslats that are set flushwith the back of the shell.

Horizontal tail lamps onthe 1600 MKII replacedthe earlier vertical style tail lamps.

The 1600 MKII grillewas very similar tothe earlier versionbut had recessed

slats.

The front grille on 1600 models was identical to the one that was fitted to the 1500s.

Front parking lamp lenses became "flat"and a separate turn signal lamp was added at the rear of 1600s.

Moss MG Maroon (#220-540) Original installation was engine color Replacements from factory and Lucas were black.

Natural, aluminum

Semi-Gloss Black

School Bus Yellow (Rustoleum) or Duplicolor T-211

Moss MG Maroon (#220-540)

Black

Natural, coat with clear to prevent rusting.

Black

Moss Tan Top Frame Paint (#220-520)

Moss Wheel Paint (#220-560)

Tudor Blue, Krylon 3107

Body Color

Identifying The MGAThere are only five variations of the MGA. The 1500, 1600, MKII, Twin Cam and 1600 MKIIDeLuxe. The coupes were a variation of the roadster and were not differentiated by thefactory numbering system as to body style. The Twin Cam, a major undertaking at the time ofits introduction, was identified separately while the DeLuxe, the most elusive of MGA models,was not distinctly identified. There are reliable production figures for all models except theDeLuxe.

The three major MGA models may be readily identified by their tail-lamp and grilleconfigurations as well as their engine displacement.

A 1600 is differentiated by the dual tail lamp with separate turn lamps, larger round parkinglamps with flat lenses and a ‘1600’ marker on the cowl and rear trunk lid. Disc brakes on thefront greatly improved stopping power. The starter position was moved with the resultinghump on the passenger toe board.

A 1500 will have the familiar single Lucas tail lamp, the flush style grille and no cowl or deckmarking. Four-wheel drum brakes were fitted to this model only. Very early 1500s haddifferent style gauge faces, an example of which can be found in the factory service manualand drivers handbook illustrations. The door rails on the first few cars were entirely of wood,as were the cockpit rear corners. There are few of these seen today. The 1500s did not havethe starter hump on the passenger toe board or the windscreen mounted top clamp. The turnindicators were switched through a relay.

The 1600 MKII received the closest thing to a face lift an MGA ever got. The famous flat grillewas replaced with the ‘pre-crushed’ version. The Morris Mini tail lamps appeared horizontallybelow the deck lid and the vinyl covered dash and cowl and 1600 MKII badges were added.The chrome trim and dash escutcheon from the coupe finished off the dash. Seat beltanchors were added to the frame. 1600 MKII DeLuxe cars used the Twin Cam chassis withthe push rod 1622 engine. Check all parts carefully, as MGAs have not always enjoyed therespect they do now, and parts have been freely exchanged with little regard for originality.

When re-wiring your car, be sure to order the harness that fits your body type, not enginetype.

Painting MGA Sub-AssembliesThe fact that the MGA was built primarily of sub-assemblies makes it easy to properly detaileach component before it is installed on the car. Here is a guide to help you detail your MGA.The Moss Custom Color Spray Paints listed below are specially formulated by us to matchthe original colors as closely as possible.

Component Paint Color

EngineStarterGenerator

Transmission

Air Cleaners

Fan

Fan Pulley

Radiator, Heater

Master Cylinder Casting

Chassis, all frame andsuspension parts, bumperbrackets & brake drums.Floor BoardsTransmission Tunnel

Convertible Top Frame

Wheels, Wire & Disc

Windscreen Washer Bottle Bracket

Body PanelsInner FendersSplash ApronsUpper DashBulkheadBattery CoverInside TrunkEngine CompartmentUnderside of Hood

and Trunk LidInside Door


280-790 $2.10 PAD, gas pedal 1280-690 $1.85 GROMMET, bumper mounting 6280-770 $2.95 PEDAL PAD, brake & clutch 2249-738 $16.20 FENDER PIPING, 4 fenders 1470-120 $4.95 GRILLE PIPING, shell to body 1281-628 $6.95 HOOD BUFFER SET, 10 buffers 1

680-470 $11.95 SEAL, windshield to body roadster 1280-740 $3.30 GROMMET, w/s post 2

280-940 $49.50 WINDSHIELD SEAL, front 1280-950 $49.50 WINDOW SEAL, rear coupe 1281-788 $34.95 VENT WINDOW SEAL SET 1

158-700 $1.90 MOUNTING RING, park lamp 2159-518 $4.95 SEAL SET, parking lamp lens 1500 1280-960 $9.85 PAD, tail lamp mounting 2

159-100 $2.95 PAD, tail lamp lens 1500 & 1600 2159-400 $2.95 PAD, tail lamp socket base 2

280-970 $12.95 PAD, tail lamp mounting 1600 2159-600 $3.60 BODY, upper tail lamp 2

159-018 $4.95 SEAL SET, parking lamp lens 1164-800 $1.85 MOUNTING RING, park lamp 1600 & MKII 2159-718 $5.95 BOOT SET, park lamp sockets 1

281-678 $17.95 PAD SET, tail lamp mounting (pair) MKII 2Major rubber kits not included in above:281-778 $69.95 PACKING SET, body to frame (28 pieces) 1281-848 $36.70 GROMMET SET, complete (52 pieces) 1

(Just about every rubber grommet found on an MGA)



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Body Panels


1 459-270 $849.95 FLOOR ASSEMBLY, trunk 12 459-275 $79.95 REPAIR PANEL, trunk center 13 459-280 $79.95 REPAIR PANEL, trunk rear 14 459-285 NA REPAIR PANEL, L/H center side 1

459-290 NA REPAIR PANEL, R/H center side 15 459-485 $33.95 REPAIR PANEL, L/H front side 1

459-490 $33.95 REPAIR PANEL, R/H front side 16 470-720 $1.35 SPRING, retaining (incl. w/ #5) 28 459-495 $149.95 REAR BULKHEAD PANEL all except 1600 coupe 19 456-280 $64.95 BATTERY COVER 110 470-710 $2.05 FASTENER, battery cover 2

12 456-140 $199.95 SILL & PILLAR ASS’Y., R/H roadster 1456-160 $199.95 SILL & PILLAR ASS’Y., L/H 1

456-145 $199.95 SILL & PILLAR ASS’Y., R/H coupe 1456-165 $199.95 SILL & PILLAR ASS’Y., L/H 1

13 457-800 $63.95 SILL, R/H, with end caps 1457-810 $63.95 SILL, L/H, with end caps 1

14 457-820 $18.65 REPAIR PIECE, A-post bottom lower 3” 215 457-830 $18.45 REPAIR PIECE, B-post bottom lower 3” 216 453-098 $25.95 FINISHER STRIP, sill bottom (pair) 57” long, as original 117 458-140 $18.95 SILL PLATE, R/H 1

458-150 $18.95 SILL PLATE, L/H 1

18 457-875 $53.95 SHUT FACE PANEL, R/H roadster 1457-900 $53.95 SHUT FACE PANEL, L/H 1

459-560 $69.95 SHUT FACE PANEL, R/H coupe 1459-565 $69.95 SHUT FACE PANEL, L/H 1

19 456-190 $19.95 INNER SILL PANEL, R/H 1456-200 $19.95 INNER SILL PANEL, L/H 1

21 459-570 $179.95 WHEEL ARCH CLOSING PANEL, R/H 1459-575 $179.95 WHEEL ARCH CLOSING PANEL, L/H 1

22 458-120 $17.25 REPAIR PANEL, w/brace, R/H 1458-130 $17.25 REPAIR PANEL, w/brace, L/H 1

23 457-880 $12.25 REPAIR PIECE, sill to wheel well, R/H 1457-870 $12.25 REPAIR PIECE, sill to wheel well, L/H 1

24 457-860 $14.85 CHANNEL, reinforcing 2

25 459-580 $19.95 MOUNT, windshield stanchion, R/H roadster 1459-585 $19.95 MOUNT, windshield stanchion, L/H 1


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Body Panels

About Our Body PanelsVirtually all Moss MGA body panels are produced exclusively on our behalf, mostly inDarlington, County Durham, England.

This facility, enthusiastically managed by Adrian Wood, grew out of a small MGA specialistfirm which we acquired in 1986. With years of restoration experience on rust prone EnglishMGAs, Adrian saw the need for a truly comprehensive range of MGA sheet metal. WithAdrian's determination and Moss backing, an ambitious development program has beentaken on under the direct supervision of Plant Foreman, Tom Oysten. With over 20 yearsexperience in limited production sheet metal manufacturing, Tom has successfully tooled,jigged, or templated a totally comprehensive range of quality tried and tested panels. Whilemany of these panels are largely handmade by Tom and his skilled staff, accuracy is assuredby a variety of carefully designed gauges.

Our fenders are supplied without bolt mounting holes and without holes for mountingparking or tail lamps. This aspect should be entrusted to a qualified body shop.We are very proud of Adrian and Tom’s accomplishments and are totally confident in the fitand quality of this important range of products.

Sill & Pillar ReplacementRusted sill and pillar assemblies are easily replaced with new parts. If you are planning abody off restoration, replace the sill and pillar assemblies before you lift the body from theframe. It will be practically impossible to maintain the proper door, fender and rocker panelalignment of the body if this is not done. If the body is to be removed, brace the cockpitopening across the top to ensure a rigid assembly.



457-645 NA DOOR SKIN, R/H LHD coupe 1457-655 NA DOOR SKIN, L/H 1

457-795 NA DOOR SKIN, R/H RHD coupe 1457-805 NA DOOR SKIN, L/H 1

70 456-730 $32.95 ROCKER PANEL, R/H 1456-720 $32.95 ROCKER PANEL, L/H 1

71 456-750 $1,099.00 FENDER, R/H front 1456-740 $1,099.00 FENDER, L/H front 1

72 457-760 $99.95 REPAIR PANEL, lower R/H 1457-770 $99.95 REPAIR PANEL, lower L/H 1

73 457-665 $399.95 REPAIR PANEL, R/H front 1457-675 $399.95 REPAIR PANEL, L/H front 1321-900 $29.95 FENDER BOLT SET, front (for 2 fenders) 1

74 324-715 $0.75 FENDER WASHER, lower 675 456-965 $1.00 FENDER WASHER, upper 2276 457-505 NA BOX ASSEMBLY, L/H air duct 1

457-515 NA BOX ASSEMBLY, R/H air duct 177 457-555 $1,259.95 HOOD (BONNET) 178 457-740 $1,450.00 HOOD SURROUND roadster 179 457-750 $679.95 REPAIR PANEL, hood surround 180 456-100 $469.95 FRONT VALANCE, steel 1

455-110 $79.95 FRONT VALANCE, fiberglass 1321-948 $8.95 BOLT & WASHER SET, front valance mounting 1

81 459-250 $39.95 REPAIR SECTION, inner door, R/H roadster 1459-255 NA REPAIR SECTION, inner door, L/H 1

459-260 NA REPAIR SECTION, inner door, R/H coupe 1459-265 NA REPAIR SECTION, inner door, L/H 1

26 459-590 NA WHEEL WELL, R/H 1459-595 $419.95 WHEEL WELL, L/H 1

27 459-110 $6.95 REINFORCEMENT, R/H wheel well 1459-115 $6.95 REINFORCEMENT, L/H wheel well 1

30 459-120 $339.95 INNER FENDER ASS’Y., R/H rear roadster 1459-125 $339.95 INNER FENDER ASS’Y., L/H rear 1

459-130 NA INNER FENDER ASS’Y., R/H rear coupe 1459-135 $294.95 INNER FENDER ASS’Y., L/H rear 1

31 459-140 $38.95 REPAIR PIECE, L/H rear 1459-145 $38.95 REPAIR PIECE, R/H rear 1

32 459-150 $49.95 REPAIR PIECE, L/H front roadster 1459-155 $49.95 REPAIR PIECE, R/H front 1

459-160 NA REPAIR PIECE, L/H front coupe 1459-165 $56.95 REPAIR PIECE, R/H front 1

33 458-170 $18.65 REPAIR PIECE, L/H lower front 1458-160 $18.65 REPAIR PIECE, R/H lower front 1

34 457-840 $7.95 REPAIR KIT, top frame mount roadster 235 456-260 $46.90 SPLASH PLATE, R/H front 1

456-250 $46.90 SPLASH PLATE, L/H front 1

36 456-290* $31.65 SPLASH PLATE, R/H rear, forward roadster from (c)29935 1456-320* $31.65 SPLASH PLATE, L/H rear, forward and all coupes 1* These splash plates may be fitted to earlier cars.

280-808 $42.95 SPLASH PLATE SEAL SET 137 280-800 $10.95 SEAL, L/H front 1

280-810 $10.95 SEAL, R/H front 138 280-820 $9.95 SEAL, R/H rear roadster from (c)29935 1

280-830 $9.95 SEAL, L/H rear and all coupes 139 325-268 $5.75 SPLIT RIVET SET 1

40 456-995 $46.75 SPLASH APRON, rear of R/H rear fender 1456-990 $46.75 SPLASH APRON, rear of L/H rear fender 1

41 457-850 $13.95 MOUNT, body to frame, front 242 457-855 $27.35 MOUNT SET, body to frame, rear (pair) 143 459-180 $99.95 BRACKET, radiator support, R/H 1

459-185 $99.95 BRACKET, radiator support, L/H 144 459-190 $69.95 PLATFORM, bonnet locking 145 459-195 $299.95 PANEL ASS’Y., ft. bulkhead except Twin Cam & MKII

DeLuxe 146 456-240 $64.95 PANEL, radiator duct except Twin Cam 1

459-215 $74.85 PANEL, radiator duct Twin Cam 147 459-220 $13.95 MOUNTING BRACKET, rad. duct panel, R/H 1

459-225 $13.95 MOUNTING BRACKET, rad. duct panel, L/H 148 459-230 $88.90 SKIRT PANEL, front valance 149 459-240 $7.95 PILLAR TOP EXTENSION, R/H 1

459-245 $7.95 PILLAR TOP EXTENSION, L/H 151 457-885 $31.95 COVER PLATE, heater aperture when heater not fitted 152 282-750 $3.75 SEAL, heater/cover plate mounting 161 456-000 NA TRUNK LID ASSEMBLY 1

456-005 NA SKIN, trunk lid 162 457-725 NA TONNEAU PANEL roadster 163 457-715 $593.95 VALANCE, rear 164 457-735 $49.95 REPAIR PANEL, R/H rear deck roadster 1

457-745 $49.95 REPAIR PANEL, L/H rear deck 1321-905 $21.95 FENDER BOLT SET, rear (for 2 fenders) 1

65 456-710 $549.95 FENDER, R/H rear 1456-700 $549.95 FENDER, L/H rear 1

66 457-485 $479.95 REPAIR PANEL, R/H rear 1457-495 NA REPAIR PANEL, L/H rear 1

67 457-775 $349.95 REPAIR PANEL, R/H front 1457-785 $349.95 REPAIR PANEL, L/H front 1

68 457-780 $46.95 REPAIR PIECE, lower R/H front 1457-790 $46.95 REPAIR PIECE, lower L/H front 1

69 457-590 $579.95 COMPLETE DOOR, R/H roadster 1457-600 NA COMPLETE DOOR, L/H 1

457-625 $94.95 DOOR SKIN, R/H roadster 1457-635 $94.95 DOOR SKIN, L/H 1

Mounting Hardware321-900 $29.95 FENDER BOLT SET, front (bolts & lockwashers for 2 fenders) 1321-905 $21.95 FENDER BOLT SET, rear (bolts & lockwashers for 2 fenders) 1456-965 $1.00 FENDER WASHER, large oblong (11/ft fender, 10/rear fender) 42324-155 $0.55 FENDER WASHER, round (1 per fender) 4

313-305 $0.35 FENDER WASHER, small rectangular3 per lower ft. fender, 2 per upper ft. of rear fender 10

321-948 $8.95 FRONT VALANCE BOLT & WASHER SET 1



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36

MGA Paint Color CodesMGA 1500 After Market CodesBody Color Interior Color R-M DitzlerOld English White Red or Black 6642 8177Black Red or Green* 9000MG Red (dark red) Red or Black BM121R 71993Orient Red (light red) Red or Black BM119R 71034Mineral Blue (coupe only) Gray or Black 6600 12115Glacier Blue (roadster only) Gray or Black BM049 11825Island Green (coupe to 48979) Gray or Black 6614 42607Tyrolite Green (rdst. to 48979) Gray or Black BM104 42605Ash Green (from 48980) Gray or Black BM077 42642

*Green interior is not available.MGA 1600Old English White Red or Black 6642 8177Black Red or Tan 9000Chariot Red Red, Beige or Black 9015R71420Iris Blue Black BM054 12235Dove Gray Red 6572 32085Alamo Beige Red 9014 21973

Windshield & Doors

Installing Windscreen and FrameOne of the most familiar characteristics of the MGA is the small diagonal crack at the cornerof the windscreen. This can be avoided if, upon installation, the mounting bolts aretightened up a little at a time. Work from side to side so the brackets are drawn up equally.The amount of packing required varies from car to car, especially if any crash repair hasbeen carried out. Plan on replacing the screw set and corner brackets. These screws are BAthread and have usually been replaced with something else which damages the brackets.Rust attacks the lower brackets, while the upper ones are prone to cracking, and should becarefully inspected. (See pg. 52 for factory information on this topic.)


Roadster Windshield1 680-470* $11.95 SEAL, under windshield 12 280-155 $3.80 PACKING, for windshield ends, 5” long 23 280-735 $8.95 GLAZING RUBBER 14 470-790 $6.75 BRACKET, lower corner 25 323-958 $35.95 SCREW SET, windshield frame, complete 16 470-780 $13.95 BRACKET, R/H 1

470-770 $13.95 BRACKET, L/H 17 456-070 $169.95 WINDSHIELD GLASS 18 472-070 $15.95 GRAB HANDLE, R/H 1

472-080 $15.95 GRAB HANDLE, L/H 19 472-090 $1.25 PACKING, grab handle 2

10 323-020 $0.65 SCREW, grab handle to frame 611 323-080 $0.65 SCREW, grab handle to body included in set #5 412 311-010 $1.40 DOME NUT, grab handle 6

14 472-450 $4.65 PACKING, windshield post (pair) A/R15 451-300 $164.95 WINDSHIELD POST, R/H 1

451-310 $164.95 WINDSHIELD POST, L/H 117 408-790 $2.95 AUSTER, windshield nameplate 118 325-210 $0.25 DRIVE RIVETS, nameplate 219 322-610 $0.50 BOLT, post to body 420 408-880 $7.95 TAPPING PLATE, windshield 221 280-740* $3.30 GROMMET, windshield post 2

* Note: Included in body rubber sets listed on pages 32.

Roadster Doors23 470-540 $9.95 STRIKER PLATE 224 472-455 $1.20 SHIM A/R25 470-480 $6.75 TAPPING PLATE 226 470-520 $27.95 DOOR LATCH, R/H 1

470-530 $27.95 DOOR LATCH, L/H 127 470-560 $6.95 CABLE, door pull 228 280-200 $1.15 GROMMET, door pocket 230 470-960 $29.95 DOOR HINGE 431 470-510 $1.20 PACKING SHIM A/R32 408-890 $5.95 TAPPING PLATE, door hinge 433 323-260 $0.50 SCREW, hinge and striker plate 3634 451-095 $5.95 STIFFENER BAR, door panel 235 280-680* $2.15 DOOR BUFFER 4

* Note: Included in body rubber sets listed on pages 32.36 470-490 $3.25 TAPPING PLATE, securing door buffers 437 323-080 $0.65 SCREW, tapping plate 440 470-570 $4.85 SOCKET, side curtain 241 324-425 $1.65 WASHER 242 310-390 $0.55 NUT for socket 243 453-260 $24.95 DOOR TOP RAIL, R/H wood 1

453-255 $24.95 DOOR TOP RAIL, L/H wood 144 472-180 $12.95 DOOR CORNER RAIL, R/H, aluminum 1

472-170 $12.95 DOOR CORNER RAIL, L/H, aluminum 1


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Coupe



Coupe only1 280-017 $19.95 SEAL, R/H vent window 1

280-027 $19.95 SEAL, L/H vent window 12 280-025 $3.95 GLAZING RUBBER, vent windows (enough for 2 windows) 13 456-460 NA VENT WINDOW GLASS 23a 470-725 NA HINGE, L/H vent window 1

470-735 NA HINGE, R/H vent window 14 470-580 $35.60 HANDLE, vent window, R/H 1

470-590 $35.60 HANDLE, vent window, L/H 15 324-295 $0.70 WASHER, anti-rattle 26 325-470 $0.80 PIN, handle retaining 27 470-575 $33.95 PIVOT, vent window handle 28 402-225 $5.00 GLAZING RUBBER door windows 29 472-100 $19.95 FELT STRIP SET, glass channel for 2 windows 110 456-470 NA DOOR GLASS 211 280-035 $4.95 BRUSH SEAL, door window 212 282-245 $24.50 PAD, R/H A-POST 1

282-255 $24.50 PAD, L/H A-POST 113 282-225 NA SEAL , door pillar 2

The sequential assembly of the MGA afforded simplicity and economy of effort inconstruction. Recalling how the car was assembled at the factory will be of great help whenyou attempt to take it apart and re-assemble it.

The MGA line moved at the rate required to carry out the assembly correctly. There was aminimum of hurry, although the workers were able to assemble several hundred cars a week.MGA components were first built into sub-assemblies in side bays and ‘hung’ on the frameas complete units. Engines, rear ends and interiors rapidly came together to make an MGAwhich was driven off the line. Each car was inspected thoroughly before being consigned to ashipment. While working on your MGA, the sequential assembly can cause problems if youattempt to subvert the system. Don’t fight it. Remember that one layer of parts removed willreveal another layer, and things have to be disassembled in proper order.

14 233-895 $79.95 SUN VISOR, black superb reproductions 1/2233-945 $79.95 SUN VISOR, white of factory options 1/2

15 472-190 $115.95 DOOR HANDLE, exterior, with escutcheon(2 pcs. - must be assemble w/ orig. pivot pin & spring.) 2

16 282-250 $3.50 BUFFER, door handle 217 470-545 NA DOOR STRIKER, R/H 1

470-555 $54.95 DOOR STRIKER, L/H 120 803-900 $16.95 DOOR HANDLE, interior 2

This is an excellent replacement handle of proper size and shape.21 472-110 $12.10 HANDLE, window regulator 222 470-600 $6.95 ESCUTCHEON, window & door handles 425 163-590 NA DOOR LOCK ASS’Y., with 2 keys (driver’s door only) 126 451-390 $39.95 TRIM, windshield or rear window (see note below) 2

Note: One length per window. Looks and fits like original when installed, but is a flexiblechrome-colored Mylar strip. For authenticity, cut in half and use two #470-700 joiners, asillustrated. Heat with an electric hair dryer to bend around corners.

27 470-700 $4.65 JOINER, window trim 2 per window 428 456-080 $169.95 WINDSHIELD 129 280-940† $49.50 WINDSHIELD SEAL 130 280-950† $49.50 WINDOW SEAL, rear 131 456-438 $649.00 REAR WINDOW GLASS SET 1

34 242-935 $104.95 SPARE WHEEL COVER, grey 1242-465 $104.95 SPARE WHEEL COVER, black 1500 coupe 1242-475 $104.95 SPARE WHEEL COVER, red (for roadster, see pg.50) 1

35 242-945 $69.95 SPARE WHEEL COVER, grey 1246-435 $69.95 SPARE WHEEL COVER, black 1600 coupe 1246-445 NA SPARE WHEEL COVER, red (for roadster, see pg.50) 1

Note: Spare wheel covers use the same carpet material as our carpet sets. See page 50 for complete listing.

36 456-970 $195.75 HEADLINER KIT, white 1456-980 $195.75 HEADLINER KIT, black 1† Included in body rubber sets listed on pages 32.



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Ignition

Reversed polarity at the coil will cause fouled spark plugs and premature point erosion, as well as high-speed break up, although the car will run. The coil connections to the distributorshould match the battery ground. For example, on a positive ground car, the positive sideshould connect to the distributor. Original Lucas coils for positive ground systems weremarked ‘SW’ for switch and ‘CB’ for the contact breaker. Modern coils are marked ‘+’ and ‘-’.

When working on the electrical system it is advisable to disconnect the coil switch wire. Thisprecaution will keep the coil and points from overheating, and prevent an accidental start-up.


Distributor143-180 $226.60 MALLORY DUAL-POINT DISTRIBUTOR 1143-100* $349.95 DISTRIBUTOR (rebuilt) 1500 & 1600 1543-000* NA DISTRIBUTOR (rebuilt) 1622, MKII 1

* Note: These rebuilt Lucas distributors are fitted with the push-on vacuum connectioninstead of the original threaded connection. To connect the original or Moss reproductionmetal vacuum advance line, remove the nut and compression fitting from the distributor endof the line and make the connection with adaptor #371-805 (purchased separately).

2 163-805 $19.95 CAP, Lucas 1163-800 $14.95 CAP, replacement 1

3 151-710 $2.55 ROTOR, Lucas 1151-800 $2.85 ROTOR, replacement 1

4 151-730 $3.05 CONDENSER, Lucas 1154-000 $2.85 CONDENSER, replacement 1

5 151-720 $4.10 POINT SET, Lucas 1153-900 $3.85 POINT SET, replacement 1

6 323-245 $1.15 SCREW, point set to breaker plate 17 153-600 $12.95 TERMINAL BUSH with lead (screw connector) 1

560-450 $6.00 TERMINAL BUSH with lead (Lucar connector) 1

8 152-600 NA SPRING SET orig. distributors, #40488A 19 152-700 NA WEIGHT & 40510A, B/D & F 2

10 163-605 $59.95 VACUUM UNIT 1500-1600 1163-615 $59.95 VACUUM UNIT 1600 MKII 1

11 163-730 $1.95 SPRING, adjuster 112 163-740 $2.75 RATCHET, adjuster 113 163-735 $6.95 KNURLED NUT, adjuster 114 153-100 $43.95 BUSHING 117 153-300 $11.95 DRIVING DOG 118 539-020 $0.60 PIN 120 163-760 $39.95 SUNDRIES KIT 121 153-400 $19.95 CLAMPING PLATE, with bolt 1

No spark? The most common tune-up problem results when a set of new points is installedand the car refuses to run. Double check the condenser and terminal wires; they must beinsulated from the point set. It's common to place them on top of the insulator, whichgrounds them to the distributor base plate. The insulator washer must be fitted under thepoint spring, and the condenser mounted securely to the breaker plate.

Coil/Ignition Wires30 543-020 $22.95 COIL, ignition, 12 volt screw-in H.T. connection 1

143-200 $39.95 LUCAS SPORTS COIL push-in H.T. connection 1

31 152-400 $1.40 NUT, wire securing for #543-020 coil only 132 146-310 $0.70 WASHER, brass 1

33 215-630 $2.20 LUCAS COIL DECAL 134 171-628 $29.95 IGNITION WIRE SET, with clips 135 171-620 $6.75 SPARK PLUG CLIP 4

171-627 $6.95 IGNITION WIRE, 5 feet 136 171-550 $1.95 IGNITION WIRE SEPARATOR 137 171-630 $2.95 WIRE LABEL SET 138 152-120 $2.25 SPARK PLUG, Champion 4

39 473-120 $19.95 PLATE, coil steady 140 473-125 $14.95 BRACKET, coil mounting 1500 1

41 470-055 $17.95 BRACKET, coil mount 1600 & MKII 1

24 163-620 $34.95 VACUUM PIPE ASS’Y., pre-bent as original 125 163-635 $0.55 COMPRESSION FITTING 126 153-810 $3.25 NUT, distributor end 127 163-625 NA SCREW FITTING, carburetor end 128 153-820 $1.00 CLIP 129 371-805 $2.50 ADAPTOR to connect vacuum line to replacement vacuum

unit with slip-on connector. 1


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Heater & Wipers



Heater362-900 $389.95 HEATER ASSEMBLY (all except Twin Cam) 1

1 408-350 $3.40 PLATE, ‘Smiths’ 12 408-360 $2.95 PLATE, ‘Caution’ 13 360-430 NA BLOWER MOTOR 14 360-440 NA HEATER CORE 15 280-190 $0.95 GROMMET 27 363-025 $2.95 CLIP, side cover 48 473-010 NA FAN 19 473-170 $2.85 CLAMP, cable 410 360-450 $12.95 PANEL, heater control 111 322-215 $9.10 BOLT & SPACER 212 360-455 $39.95 LEVER & SWITCH ASSEMBLY 113 150-810† $3.95 KNOB, heater blower, with letter ‘B’ 114 331-330 $27.95 AIR CONTROL CABLE, less knob 115 331-320 $24.95 DEMIST CONTROL CABLE, less knob 116 150-880† $3.95 KNOB, control cables 2

† Note: Our dash knob set, part #150-888 includes all 11 knobs. Seepage 45 for details.

17 473-030 $13.95 TUBE, defroster 2456-188* $69.95 AIR HOSE SET, 5 original type hoses1

18 456-170* $6.45 AIR HOSE, 14”, original type 119 456-185* $12.95 AIR HOSE, 25”, original type 120 456-110* $17.25 AIR HOSE, 4” x 18”, original type 221 456-120* $22.95 AIR HOSE, 4” X 31”, original type 1

* Note: These hoses are supplied compressed in length, and must be stretched to correct length for installation.

22 326-360 $1.95 CLAMP, for 4” air hose 423 326-220 $3.70 CLAMP, for 4” air hose 324 363-415 $9.95 SEAL, air valve 125 360-410 $29.50 VALVE, heater shut off 126 296-450 $1.20 GASKET 1

456-238 $4.95 WATER HOSE SET 127 456-220 $0.70 HOSE, 21/2” 128 473-050 $2.50 HOSE, 121/2” 129 473-060 $2.95 HOSE, 14” 130 473-040 $16.95 PIPE 131 326-308 $4.95 CLAMP SET, for #27, 28, 29 132 363-205 $1.30 CLIP 233 473-070 $2.25 CABLE STOP & SCREW 436 331-000 $12.50 CABLE, water valve 137 473-080 $9.45 NIPPLE 138 324-780 $2.15 WASHER 142 473-220 $2.95 ADAPTOR 243 282-750 $3.75 SEAL, heater mounting, rubber 144 457-885 $31.95 BLANKING PLATE (when heater is not fitted) 1

Wipers50 145-538 NA WIPER MOTOR 151 554-020 $71.75 ARMATURE 152 554-030 NA BRUSH & SPRING SET, complete 152b 554-035 $15.95 BRUSH PAIR (carbon blocks only) 153 240-515 $2.10 GROMMET 154 145-010 NA CASING, motor to wheelbox 155 145-020 NA CASING, between wheelboxes 156 161-310 $25.95 INNER DRIVE CABLE 157 145-200 $46.95 WHEELBOX ASS’Y. 258 145-290 $4.95 CHROME BEZEL, wheelbox 259 282-820 $2.50 PAD, wheelbox bezel 260 311-065 $3.00 CHROME NUT, wheelbox 261 164-990 $12.95 WIPER ARM LHD only 2

165-035 $14.95 WIPER ARM RHD only 262 164-980 $9.95 WIPER BLADE 264 145-640 $9.95 WIPER MOTOR MOUNT KIT 165 280-755 $3.35 GROMMET, rubber 366 471-105 $10.95 BRACKET, top 167 471-115 $18.95 BRACKET, bottom 168 565-130 $2.15 CASING, R/H end 1

Washer70 361-100 $12.95 CONTAINER 171 361-140 $9.45 CAP 172 361-145 $3.40 FOOT VALVE, non-return valve 175 361-160 $24.95 PUMP, replacement type 175a 150-889 $6.95 KNOB, orig. pumps 176 282-640 $2.05 GROMMET, washer tube 1

77 361-210 $1.65 TUBING, container to pump, 1/4” dia. A/R78 361-210 $1.65 TUBING, pump to connector, 1/4” dia. (sold by the foot) A/R79 361-220 $0.75 TUBING, connector to jets, 3/16” dia. A/R

80 565-040 $1.95 CONNECTOR, 3-way 181 361-240 $5.05 JET ASSEMBLY 282 361-255 $7.95 BRACKET, for container 1



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40

Lamps


Headlamps1 168-708 $74.95 HEADLAMP ASSEMBLY (3-adj.) 1500 & 1600 to (c)70221 2

168-698 $112.95 HEADLAMP ASSEMBLY (2-adj.) 1600 from (c)70222 22 164-000 $19.95 CHROME RIM, outer 23 147-000 $0.60 SCREW 24 280-120 $4.75 DUST SEAL 25 144-790 $59.95 HEADLAMP ASS’Y., without rim 1500 & 1600 to (c)70221 2

144-800 $78.95 HEADLAMP ASS’Y., without rim 1600 from (c)70222 26 157-300 $28.95 RING, retaining, 2 piece 1500 & 1600 to (c)70221 2

7 156-700 $12.95 RING, retaining, outer 1600 from (c)70222 2560-215 $18.45 BUCKET, inner 2

7a 158-045 $0.40 SCREW, retaining rings to bucket 68 171-100 $4.75 LIGHT UNIT, sealed beam, U.S. made 29 144-797 $14.95 BUCKET, with adjusters 1500 & 1600 to (c)70221 2

144-807 $19.95 BUCKET, with adjusters 1600 to (c)70222 2

9a 147-015 $6.95 ADJUSTER SET 1500 & 1600 to (c)70221 29b 147-010 $2.30 SCREW & SPRING 4

552-115 $6.25 ADJUSTER SET 1600 from (c)70222 210 171-400 $8.95 PLUG, sealed beam with grommet & pigtail 211 280-130 $5.95 MOUNTING RUBBER 2

Front Lamps20 143-500 $36.95 FRONT PARKING LAMP 1500 221 158-900 $16.25 LENS, with rim 222 159-518 $4.95 SEAL SET, lens mounting 123 170-700 $0.95 BULB 224 158-700 $1.90 RUBBER PAD 225 159-700 $1.90 RUBBER BOOT 228 143-600 $39.95 FRONT PARKING LAMP 1600 & MKII 229 164-200 $15.95 LENS, with rim, clear U.S. spec. 2

164-210 NA LENS, with rim, amber/clear U.K. spec. 230 159-018 $4.95 SEAL SET, lens mounting 131 170-800 $0.95 BULB, turn indicator, large 232 170-100 $0.80 BULB, parking, small 233 164-800 $1.85 RUBBER PAD 234 159-718 $5.95 BOOT SET, 4 boots 1

Tripod Headlamps

14 156-878* $149.95 TRIPOD HEADLAMP SET2 units w/ bulbs & adaptors 1

15 156-870 $62.95 LIGHT UNIT LHD, & cars driven 216 170-600 $7.50 BULB on right side of road, 217 157-000 $17.95 ADAPTOR (dip right) 2

14 156-888* NA TRIPOD HEADLAMP SET2 units w/ bulbs & adaptors 1

15 156-880 NA LIGHT UNIT RHD, & cars driven 216 170-460 $5.95 BULB on left side of road, 217 157-000 $17.95 ADAPTOR (dip left) 2

* Note: The above “Tripod” headlamps are semi-sealed beam units, and are not legal forstreet use where D.O.T. approved headlamps are required. Right hand drive cars driven onthe right side of the road (e.g. North America) require “LHD” units for proper “dip right” (lowbeam) versus high beam light patterns.

Tail Lamps36 143-800 $34.95 TAIL LAMP ASSEMBLY 1500 & 1600 237 159-200 $9.75 LENS, genuine Lucas 238 158-018 $1.85 SCREW SET, for lenses 139 159-100 $2.95 PAD, lens mounting 240 170-700 $0.95 BULB 241 159-300 $20.95 CHROME BASE ASS’Y. 242 159-400 $2.95 PAD, rubber 245 144-000 $22.95 FLASHER LAMP ASS’Y., rear 1600 246 158-400 $3.95 RIM, chrome 247 164-900 $7.95 GLASS LENS, red U.S. spec. 2

560-275 $13.00 GLASS LENS, amber U.K. spec. 248 170-800 $0.95 BULB 249 159-900 $11.45 SOCKET 250 159-600 $3.60 BODY, rubber 2


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Lamps

Our Moss-made accessory lamps are outstanding reproductions of the Lucas ‘576’ lampsfitted to many British sports cars of the ‘50s and ‘60s. First class quality in all respects,lamps are supplied complete with bulbs. The wiring for one of these lamps is already in yourMGA harness. It is the red and yellow wire found behind the grille.If a fog and driving lamp is to be used together, a two position switch (a second MGAheadlamp switch is ideal) can be used. Wire the fog lamp to the ‘park’ or first position andthe driving lamp to the second. Mount the driving lamp on the left and the fog lamp on theright for best illumination.

R/H Lamp shown



52 473-140 $104.95 PLINTH, L/H 1473-150 $104.95 PLINTH, R/H 1500 1

53 280-960 $9.85 PLINTH PAD 2

54 159-180 NA PLINTH, L/H 1159-190 NA PLINTH, R/H 1600 1

55 280-970 $12.95 PLINTH PAD 2

Two basic tools are essential for trouble shooting electrical problems - a wiring diagram, and a 12 volt test light. A test light is an inexpensive little tool that looks like a cross between anice pick and an electric screwdriver. Simple to use, it is connected by its clip to a ground. Thesharp probe is poked around the ‘hot’ leads. If the lamp lights, there is power, at least to thatpart of the circuit. For example, clip the test light to a bumper bolt or other good ground andtouch the probe to a bulb contact on the ‘hot’ side - the bulb will light (so long as the light is‘on’).

Most lamp problems are conveniently in the lamp unit itself. The great majority are causedby bad bulb contacts or corroded grounds. Don’t assume that there are major problems untilthe non-functioning unit is completely inspected. Using the wiring diagram, work your wayback through the circuit to the connectors and from there to the source of power such as thefuse box or terminal connector. By this method, you are able to determine whether an entirecircuit or the individual unit is at fault. If the circuit is dead, track the problem from the fusebox or battery side of that particular circuit. Proceed through the circuit components one at atime, using the wiring diagram as a guide.

60 144-300 $114.95 TAIL LAMP ASS’Y., L/H 1600 MKII & DeLuxe 1144-400 $114.95 TAIL LAMP ASS’Y., R/H (US spec w/red lens #62) 1164-208 $50.95 LENS SET, all 4 lenses below 1

61 164-400 $12.95 LARGE LENS, L/H stop/tail lamp 1164-500 $12.95 LARGE LENS, R/H stop/tail lamp 1

62 164-600 $14.95 SMALL LENS, L/H flasher lamp, red 1164-700 $14.95 SMALL LENS, R/H flasher lamp, red U.S. spec 1

164-605 $13.95 SMALL LENS, L/H flasher lamp, amber 1164-705 $13.95 SMALL LENS, R/H flasher lamp, amber U.K. spec. 1

63 170-700 $0.95 BULB, stop/tail, dual filament 264 170-800 $0.95 BULB, flasher, single filament 265 552-080 $8.95 SOCKET, double contact 268 552-070 $4.95 SOCKET, single contact 269 159-410 $2.95 PAD 270 159-420 NA BASE, R/H 1

159-430 NA BASE, L/H 171 159-440 $6.95 PAD 2

323-588 $17.95 SCREW SET 272 158-010 $3.25 SCREW, stop/tail light lens 273 158-020 $2.85 SCREW, long, flasher lens 274 158-030 $2.40 SCREW, short, flasher lens 275 159-450 $104.95 PLINTH, R/H 1

159-460 $104.95 PLINTH, L/H 176 281-678 $17.95 PLINTH PAD SET 1

License Plate Lamp80 144-190 $43.90 LICENSE PLATE LAMP, genuine Lucas 1

144-200 $28.95 LICENSE PLATE LAMP, reproduction 181 158-100 $11.95 CHROME COVER 182 164-100 $6.25 GLASS LENS 183 170-100 $0.80 BULB 2 used after 1600 (c)88844 1/284 280-540 $3.60 RUBBER SEAL 185 158-200 $2.75 CHROME SCREW 1

Accessory Lamps90 162-700 $97.95 DRIVING LAMP ASS’Y., clear factory option A/R

162-800 $97.95 FOG LAMP ASS’Y., clear fluted A/R91 170-500 $3.95 BULB for 162-700 A/R

170-510 $3.95 BULB for 162-800 A/R92 157-200 $35.95 LENS, clear, plain A/R

157-250 NA LENS, amber, fluted A/R157-100 $35.95 LENS, clear, fluted A/R

94 146-300 $2.05 NUT A/R95 157-137 NA RETAINER A/R96 158-000 $1.40 SCREW A/R97 157-127 NA PAD, rubber A/R98 157-087 $4.95 BULB HOLDER A/R99 157-200 $35.95 LENS ASS’Y, clear driving lamp 1

157-100 $35.95 LENS ASS’Y, fluted fog lamp 1100 157-117 $4.95 CREST, “Lucas” A/R

101 407-720 $44.95 BRACKET, acc. lamp, L/H mount behind 1407-730 $44.95 BRACKET, acc. lamp, R/H (illus.) overriders 1



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42

Electrical


150-888† $39.95 DASH KNOB SET, includes all knobs marked † below,plus knobs for vent lever, starter or choke and heater cables. 1

1 162-100 $25.95 SWITCH, map light 12 150-800† $3.95 KNOB, map light 13 162-100* $25.95 SWITCH, wiper 14 150-840† $3.95 KNOB, wiper switch, with letter ‘W’ 15 140-500 $34.95 HEADLIGHT SWITCH 16 150-830† $3.95 KNOB, headlight switch, with letter ‘L’ 17 162-100* $25.95 SWITCH, fog or driving lamp 18 150-850† $3.95 KNOB, fog light switch, with letter ‘F’ 1

* Note: These switches are supplied with blank knobs.9 146-000 $66.95 SWITCH, panel light 110 150-820† $3.95 KNOB, panel light switch, with letter ‘P’ 113 162-400 $189.95 TURN SIGNAL SWITCH 114 323-295 $0.95 SCREW for handle 115 233-780† $4.95 HANDLE, original type, not included with switch 116 169-108 $39.90 IGNITION SWITCH ASSEMBLY 117 163-500 $8.95 LOCK & KEYS 118 140-900 $42.95 SWITCH, headlight dimmer 119 141-700 $19.95 SWITCH, stop light, hydraulic 1

Don’t waste a lot of time chasing down electrical problems until you have first checked thebattery connections. If there is no power at all, it is most likely to be the battery connections,especially if you don't service the battery on a regular basis. The next most likely suspect isthe starter switch and its connections. The least likely is the key switch.

22 145-600 $39.95 HORN PUSH 123 233-770 $4.95 BRACKET, horn bottom 125 145-800 $43.95 STARTER SWITCH 126 161-900 $1.95 BOOT, rubber 227 361-080 $12.95 BRACKET, starter switch, welds to chassis 128 331-340 $25.95 CABLE, starter 129 161-500 $5.75 COUPLER, starter cable 1

Carburetor cleaner is a great help in cleaning wiring to identify color coding, but do not allowa hot wire such as the horn lead to spark against the chassis while using it. The resultantspark will cause a flash and may set the wiring harness on fire. Dampen a rag with cleanerand use it to clean the wires.

30 144-100 $21.50 MAP LIGHT ASSEMBLY 131 158-510 $12.95 COVER 132 158-500 $6.95 GLASS 133 171-000 $0.95 BULB 134 158-520 $1.75 SEALING RING 135 142-400 $25.40 LAMP, turn indicator 136a 151-500 $3.65 JEWEL, green 136b 324-745 $0.80 WASHER 137 171-000 $0.95 BULB 138 162-500 $39.50 FUSE BOX A/R39 146-700 $0.70 FUSE, 35 amp A/R

146-800 $0.80 FUSE, 50 amp A/R

42 142-000 $49.75 REGULATOR (screw connectors) 1542-100 $49.95 REGULATOR (Lucar connectors) 1

43 151-700 $29.95 COVER 145 165-708 $109.95 HORN SET, (1 high, 1 low) repro. of orig. style Windtone horns 1

165-700 $74.95 HORN, L/H high note (reproduction, optional) 1165-800 $74.95 HORN, R/H low note (reproduction, standard) 1

46 160-200 $15.95 BRACKET, horn mounting, included with horns A/R47 405-800 $11.95 HORN BRKT., L/H, on chassis optional 1

405-900 $11.95 HORN BRKT., R/H, on chassis (illus.) standard 148 141-750 $19.95 FLASHER UNIT 149 141-400 $159.95 RELAY, turn signals 1500 1

If there is trouble with the rear lamps on your MGA, check the harness ground at the rightrearof the frame, near the rear spring shackle. Clean up this ground as well as the connectorbundle. The wiring is exposed to the elements at this point and it is common to find theground wire broken off. Trouble in the license lamp is usually corrosion at the bulb holder.Check the wires as they pass through the body and inspect the connector inside the lamp.

To polarize a generator - disconnect the wires and run a wire from the control box "A"terminal. Spark the "A" terminal wire against the generator "F" terminal. Do not hook this up,just a brief touch will do, then reconnect the generator.

MG

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43

Starter & Generator

93




Battery459-410* $122.45 BATTERY, 6 volt, tar top (original style) 2459-415* $101.30 BATTERY, 6 volt, modern Lucas 2473-178 $79.95 COMPLETE BATTERY BRACKET KIT 1

50 473-200 $46.95 BATTERY BRKT. ASSEMBLY, R/H weld to frame 1473-210 $46.95 BATTERY BRKT. ASSEMBLY, L/H 1

51 473-188 $7.95 BOLT SET, 4 bolts & nuts 152 473-198 $8.95 PAD SET, 4 pads 153 473-180 $3.95 BRACKET, battery hold-down 254 473-110 $0.50 PAD, bracket 255 215-610 $5.95 LUCAS BATTERY DECAL (modern logo) 1

57 332-010 $14.95 CABLE, battery to frame replacement type 158 332-080 $29.95 CABLE, battery to starter switch replacement type 159 332-065 $14.60 CABLE, starter switch to starter replacement type 160 332-035 $19.50 CABLE, between batteries 161 332-070 $8.40 CABLE, engine to frame 1

332-025 $23.95 CABLE, battery to starter switch repro of original 162 332-205 $0.35 SCREW, orig. “helmet head” cables A/R

*Note: Batteries are "dry charged" - electrolyte must be added.

Generator79 140-200 $79.95 GENERATOR, new (includes # 86, 87, 89, 90) 180 162-900 NA ARMATURE all 1

560-070 $57.95 FIELD COIL SET all except #22258 182 147-300 NA PLATE, drive end #22258 only 1

125-100 $9.75 BALL BEARING, drive end all 183 147-400 $39.95 PLATE, commutator end #22258 only 1

147-600 $0.90 BUSHING, commutator plate 184 147-200 $3.95 BRUSH SET orig. generators marked #22258 1

147-250 $3.20 BRUSH SET orig. generators marked #22700, #22704and replacement generator #22715 1

85 147-700 NA SPRING SET, brush (all) 186 310-310 $0.70 NUT, securing pulley 187 327-030 $0.70 WOODRUFF KEY 188 473-130 $60.35 PULLEY 189 433-670 $5.95 FAN #22258 1

433-710 $7.95 FAN #22700, #22704, #22715 190 324-050 $0.15 LOCKWASHER 1

148-120 NA SUNDRIES KIT, misc. small parts 1

Wiring Harnesses63 356-170 $219.95 WIRING HARNESS, fabric bound, PVC wires 1500 1

357-500 $289.95 WIRING HARNESS, fabric bound, lacquer braid wires 1500 1

356-180 $219.95 WIRING HARNESS, fabric binding, PVC wires 1600 & MKII 164 162-000 $0.60 WIRE CONNECTOR, single A/R65 161-600 $1.00 WIRE CONNECTOR, double A/R66 161-720 $2.90 WIRE CONNECTOR, 3-way A/R67 162-200 $0.35 WIRE TIP, for wire end A/R70 161-800 $2.10 STRAP, tail lamp cable 271 470-820 $1.85 CLIP, battery cable & harness 672 470-830 $0.70 CLIP, tail lamp harness 273 161-850 $1.95 RUBBER STRAP 1

Wiring harnesses include the main harness and three sub-harnesses (some exceptions). These are color coded as original so that your workshop manual wiring diagram can bereferred to should any problems arise in the future. Headlamp pigtails #171-400 are notincluded.

Starter93 541-545 $189.95 STARTER, new, replacement 194 541-540 $89.95 STARTER, rebuilt, exchange 1

$11.70 CORE CHARGE FOR 541-540 STARTER, REBUILT95 NA ARMATURE 196 148-300 NA PLATE, drive end 197 148-600 $1.95 BUSHING, drive end 198 163-300 NA PLATE, commutator end 199 148-500 $1.45 BUSHING, commutator end 1100 149-000 $5.95 BRUSH SET, rectangular (original type) 1

149-010 $5.75 BRUSH SET, triangular (some rebuilt starters) 1

101a 149-100 NA SPRING SET, brush as fitted - note 1101b 149-110 $4.15 SPRING SET, brush inner loops of springs 1

103 148-800 $18.95 PINION 1104 148-900 $49.00 SLEEVE & NUT 1105 148-700 NA SPRING 1106 148-200 $6.95 SPRING, main 1107 150-500 $18.85 NUT 1

150-170 $5.20 SUNDRIES KIT, starter 1108 322-620 $0.65 BOLT, starter to engine 1500 to (c)117330 2

322-455 $1.60 BOLT, starter to engine 1500 from (c)117331 2113 149-800 NA CAP, shaft end 1


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44

Dash

Burl Wood DashboardsDress up your dashboard with one of these beautifully handcrafted highly figured walnut burl veneer dashboards. Available unfinished, or with a durable hand rubbed synthetic finish. Thesereplace the original dashboard completely. Installation is reversable, should you become a born-again purist. Complete with speaker screen and all required hardware, these fit roadsters only.233-610 $394.95 Finished dashboard


45

MG

A


Dash

Brown

Yellow

White

Green

Blue

Red

Black

Electrical Trouble-ShootingListed below is a guide for trouble-shooting electrical problems on your MGA and makingsense out of standard Lucas wiring harness color coding.Sorting out electrical problems requires a step-by-step, methodical approach. Identify theproblem, examine the wiring diagram, and trace the circuit connection to connection(usually from the hot side), until the problem is found.As a rule: Wires do not fail. The bullet connectors may corrode at the ends of the wires(rarely), or the connections may be loose (common!), but the wires are usually OK. Anotherrule: Wires begin and end outside of the loom. There is no reason to cut through theharness binding.Warning: Approaching an electrical problem without a test light and wiring diagram is acertain route to insanity.

Battery Circuit. Feeds light and ignition switches from controlbox terminal A1. Feeds horns from control box terminal A to A1fuse box terminal. Always hot. Accessories are sometimesinstalled at fuse box terminal A1, but should always be fusedseparately.

Generator Circuit. Generator terminal D (armature) to controlbox terminal D and ignition warning light. Hot with ignition on.

Ignition Circuit. All essential requirements when ignition isswitched on but are not fused. Hot with ignition on.

Auxiliary Circuits. Fed through the ignition switch and fused.Hot with ignition on.

Headlamp Circuit. Fed from terminal on light switch. Unfused.

Side and Tail Lamp Circuits. Fed from terminal S1 or T onlight switch. Includes fog lamps and panel lamps.

Earth or Ground Circuits. Components not internally groundedare grounded to the chassis. Unfused.


45 140-500 $34.95 HEADLIGHT SWITCH 146 150-830† $3.95 KNOB, headlight switch, with letter ‘L’ 147 146-000 $66.95 SWITCH, panel light 1

When MGAs were set up for left hand drive, the instrument positions were not changedaccordingly. It is a good idea to change the fuel gauge and combination gauge position, asthe ignition key switch is located above this important gauge. Your key ring and keys willblock your view of the gauge and you may be distracted by having to move things out of theway in order to see what is going on with your engine. Some owners have found it desirableto change tach and speedometer positions also. Remember, when working with the dashwiring for any reason, it is a good idea to disconnect the battery.

Failure of the green flasher pilot lamp to light when the indicator is flashing is most often abad ground at the bulb fitting behind the dash. Reach behind the dash and give the bulbholder a turn or two against the dash to tighten and clean the ground.

48 150-820† $3.95 KNOB, panel light switch, with letter ‘P’ 149 162-100 $25.95 SWITCH, wiper, with plain unlettered knob 150 150-840† $3.95 KNOB, wiper switch, with letter ‘W’ 151 162-100 $25.95 SWITCH, map light, with correct knob 152 150-800† $3.95 KNOB, map light 153 162-100 $25.95 SWITCH, fog or driving lamp, w/ plain unlettered knob 154 150-850† $3.95 KNOB, fog light switch, with letter ‘F’ 1

† Note: Order our dash knob set, part #150-888, and save over individual prices. Set includes all 8 knobs indicated † on this page, plus 3 knobs for heater control.

150-888 $39.95 DASH KNOB SET 1

55 144-100 $21.50 MAP LIGHT ASSEMBLY 156 158-510 $12.95 COVER 157 158-500 $6.95 GLASS 158 171-100 $4.75 BULB 259 158-520 $1.75 SEALING RING 159a 158-320 $4.95 BULB HOLDER, map light 160 142-400 $25.40 LAMP, turn indicator 161 151-500 $3.65 JEWEL, green 162 171-000 $0.95 BULB 163 324-745 $0.80 WASHER, behind jewel 1

1 249-540 $1.65 DASH PIPING, black A/R249-550 $1.65 DASH PIPING, red sold per foot A/R249-570 $1.65 DASH PIPING, tan A/R249-600 $1.65 DASH PIPING, white A/R

3 472-028 $2.95 CLIP SET, piping to dash 16 472-078 $26.95 RADIO BLANKING PLATE SET 17 472-030 $8.65 PLATE, blanking 18 472-040 $8.75 BEZEL, blanking plate 19 472-050 $9.65 BADGE, on plate 110 472-060 $1.40 CLIP, plate retaining 211 326-520 $0.20 SPEED NUT 213 233-750 $8.45 SCREEN, speaker 114 233-760 $5.95 PLATE, blanking 115 331-340 $25.95 STARTER CABLE, with knob, letter ‘S’ 116 331-350 $25.95 CHOKE CABLE, with knob, letter ‘C’ 1

150-860† $3.95 KNOB, choke cable, with letter ‘C’ for original cables 1150-870† $3.95 KNOB, starter cable, with letter ‘S’ must be cemented on 1

To cut a wound control cable such as the starter, choke or heater cable, pull the control knobout of the outer sheath. The distance between the knob and the mounting bezel should beequal to the amount of cable needed to reach and operate the control. Hold the cableassembly against an anvil (on your bench vise) and cut with a sharp chisel. Cut with oneblow, as repeated blows will spread the inner wire. A large, very sharp side cutter can also beused. It is a good idea to leave a little extra inner cable so the end, which soon frays, may betrimmed from time to time. You can also lightly solder the end to prevent fraying.

17 360-380* NA SPEEDOMETER, rebuilt, exchange 118 360-350* NA TACHOMETER, rebuilt, exchange 1

361-005 $6.45 GLASS LENS, tach & speedo 219 360-085 $12.65 BEZEL, chromed, tach & speedo 220 361-761 $142.95 OIL/WATER GAUGE, new, replacement 121 360-290* NA FUEL GAUGE, rebuilt, exchange 1

361-045 $5.95 GLASS LENS, oil & fuel gauges 222 360-075 $9.45 BEZEL, chromed, oil & fuel gauges 2

* Note: These gauges have become impossible for us to obtain. If you need your old gaugerebuilt, inquire to either of the following for rebuilding services: West Valley Instruments (818) 758-9500 MO-MA (505) 766-666119314 Van Owen 1321 2nd St. NWReseda, CA 91335 Albuquerque, NM 87102

23 171-000 $0.95 INSTRUMENT BULB 425 331-120 $16.50 CABLE, tachometer LHD only 1

021-388 $16.95 CABLE, tachometer RHD only 126 331-110 $13.95 CABLE, speedometer LHD only 1

331-115 NA CABLE, speedometer RHD only 127 435-548 $19.95 TUBE, oil gauge to fitting 127a 435-515 $0.40 WASHER, leather, oil tube 128 376-060 $26.45 OIL LINE, flexible 129 435-530 $12.95 FITTING, tube to flex line 130a 233-740 $8.95 DASH SUPPORT, R/H 230b 233-745 $8.95 DASH SUPPORT, L/H 231 233-775 $21.95 BEZEL, speaker coupes & twin cam, 1600 MKII rdst. 1

32 233-710 $61.95 TRIM, dash bottom (LHD) 1600 MKII & twin cam rdst. 1233-715 NA TRIM, dash bottom (RHD) 1

233-720 $69.95 TRIM, dash bottom (LHD) all coupes 1233-725 NA TRIM, dash bottom (RHD) 1

33 281-920 $6.95 CLIP SET, temp. sender tube 134 280-890 $2.95 RING, rubber, large (4") 235 280-870 $1.95 RING, rubber, small (2") 236 360-370 $3.05 KNURLED NUT, speedo & tach 437 233-770 $4.95 BRACKET, horn button 138 281-808 $34.50 GROMMET SET, firewall (33 pcs.) 1

281-890 $1.20 GROMMET, oil line 1281-900 $1.95 GROMMET, speedo & tach cables 2680-630 $0.90 GROMMET, temp. gauge capillary 1

40 145-600 $39.95 HORN BUTTON 140a 233-785 NA GASKET, horn button 141 169-108 $39.90 IGNITION SWITCH ASS’Y., w/ lock & keys 142 163-500 $8.95 LOCK & 2 KEYS 143 162-400 $189.95 TURN SIGNAL SWITCH 143a 323-295 $0.95 SCREW for handle 144 233-780† $4.95 HANDLE, original type, black 1



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46

Twin Cam & MKII DeLuxe


12 180-790 $74.95 MASTER CYLINDER, clutch 1180-990 $12.15 REPAIR KIT, clutch master cylinder 1

13 200-200 $59.95 WHEEL NUT, ‘knock-off’, R/H 2200-205 $59.95 WHEEL NUT, ‘knock-off’, L/H 2

14 408-425 $33.10 ‘TWIN CAM’ MOTIF 315 513-316 $89.95 CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER 1

513-127 $5.95 REPAIR KIT, slave cylinder 116 584-100 $16.95 HOSE, clutch slave cylinder 117 360-435 $32.95 HEATER VALVE 1

18 377-085 $259.95 FUEL PUMP, square body474-020 $12.70 RADIATOR HOSE, top Twin Cam only 1474-030 $10.95 RADIATOR HOSE, bottom 1

452-100† $269.95 STAINLESS STEEL EXHAUST SYSTEM 1†Uses stock exhaust manifold. Does not include clamps and hangers. Note : Twin Cam carburetors are on pages 16-17.

Dunlop four wheel disc brake systems fitted to the Twin Cam and MKII DeLuxe chassis areentirely different from the Lockheed disc/drum combinations fitted to the standard MGAs.The hand brake is independent of the hydraulic system. Two friction pad carriers are fitted tothe top of the rear calipers. Adjustment must be carried out at the hand brake caliper units,not the cable relay lever. Release the hand brake. Slacken the brass adjuster nut on the relaylever so that the cable hangs loosely. Tighten each adjuster bolt until the pads just touch therotor. Take up any slack at the relay lever, making sure that there is no pre-load in the cable.Unscrew each adjuster bolt about one third of a turn. Make sure that the rotors rotate freely.Overheating is deadly to Twin Cams. Correct timing and mixture strength are vital to twincam operation. Pay strict attention to the timing specifications. Do not let the engine ‘ping’, apre-ignition condition fatal to Twin Cam engines. Use the highest octane fuel you can obtainand make sure that your mixture settings are not too lean. The timing chains, gears, anddistributor breaker plate must be in perfect condition. Since many Twin Cam parts are notavailable, proper maintenance is essential.

The Twin Cam MGA was a significant development for MG: The Twin Cam engine has little incommon with the push-rod ‘B’ series engines. The Twin Cam, or “Twinkie”, was in productionfrom September 1958 until June of 1960. A total of 2111 were produced and numberedseparately from the regular production.

The 1600 MKII DeLuxe was numbered in the regular series and no reliable figures areavailable regarding total production. Some sources claim as many as 500 of these carsexisted, but recent research shows somewhat less than that. This rarest and most desirableof all MGAs represented the MGA at its highest peak.

The parts listed on this page fit only the Twin Cam and MKII Deluxe models, with theexception of the engine parts, which fit the Twin Cam only. Body, frame, electrical, interior,and most suspension parts for these models are the same as standard MGAs.

1 180-770* $229.95 MASTER CYLINDER, brake (Girling replacement) 1180-495* $10.95 REPAIR KIT for replacement cylinder 1180-780* $63.95 REPAIR KIT for original Dunlop cylinder 1

* Note: Original Dunlop master cylinders are no longer available. The Girling replacement incorporates a round white nylon reservoir. If appearance is important, wesuggest you rebuild your original cylinder.2 181-590 $239.95 PISTON & CYLINDER, front calipers 2 per caliper 4

181-600 $44.00 REPAIR KIT, front calipers, does both calipers 1181-580 $279.95 PISTON & CYLINDER, rear calipers 2 per caliper 4181-610 $52.50 REPAIR KIT, rear calipers, does both calipers 1

3 182-220 $19.95 PAD SET, front & rear 1 set for 2 calipers 24 182-230 $149.95 PAD SET, hand brake 15 280-715 $24.95 EXCLUDER, fume & dust, brake & clutch pedals 17 181-560 $24.95 BRAKE HOSE, front 2

180-830 $19.95 BRAKE HOSE, rear 1183-178 $98.95 BRAKE PIPE SET, LHD 1

8 182-160 $129.95 BRAKE ROTOR, front 2182-165 $119.95 BRAKE ROTOR, rear 2331-180 $27.95 CABLE, hand brake 1

296-460 $129.95 HEAD GASKET SET 19 296-395 $48.95 HEAD GASKET 1

296-465 $53.45 CONVERSION GASKET SET 1296-330 $2.70 OIL PAN GASKET 1

10 474-010 NA TIMING CHAIN Twin Cam only 1425-550 $7.65 THRUST WASHER SET, standard 1425-600 $7.65 THRUST WASHER SET, 0.005" 1425-000 $19.95 BEARING SET, idler shaft in block 1474-040 $5.95 FAN BELT 1331-095 $14.95 ACCELERATOR CABLE 1

11 413-020 $7.95 ENGINE MOUNT, L/H Twin Cam & MKII DeLuxe 1413-030 $16.95 ENGINE MOUNT, R/H 1

296-330 $2.70 GASKET, oil pan 1


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Cockpit Fittings

40 241-980 $49.60 UNDER DASH PAD SET coupe, LHD 1Note: This reproduction of the original coupe sound-deadening pads fits roadsters as well.Not only does it reduce cockpit engine noise, but it helps insulate against excess heat in thefootwells. Makes motoring in your MGA much more comfortable. Originally fitted to someearly coupes. (These are easily fitted during a full restoration, but are time consuming toinstall on a fully assembled car.)



321-958 $15.95 HARDWARE KIT, 132 pieces 1This kit includes all interior chrome Phillips head screws requiredfor panels, end caps, fixing plates, etc.

37 323-948 $13.95 SCREW SET, door & trim panels, included in panel kit 1

38 Original type 2-part door seal with separate furflex and neoprene seals. Included are 12 securing clips per yard. Sold by the yard.249-808* $27.95 DOOR SEAL, black A/R249-818* $27.95 DOOR SEAL, red sold per yard A/R249-848* NA DOOR SEAL, grey (orig. type) A/R249-838* $27.95 DOOR SEAL, blue A/R280-007 $15.20 NEOPRENE SEAL A/R803-400 $0.25 CLIP A/R

249-607* $12.95 DOOR SEAL, black velour/rubber A/R249-637* NA DOOR SEAL, red velour/rubber sold per yard A/R249-667* $42.95 DOOR SEAL, tan velour/rubber (repl. type) A/R

259-907* $4.05 DOOR SEAL, black plastic/rubber, sold per foot A/R

* Roadsters require 4 yards (12 feet) per car.Coupes require 7 yards (21 feet) per car.

321-810 $44.35 HARDWARE KIT for all cockpit rails 11 453-718 $71.95 FRONT RAIL, uncovered, w/ rubber, hardware & end caps 12 282-860 $12.95 RUBBER STRIP 13 470-565 $2.75 ‘T’ BOLT, with washers & nut 64 472-170 $12.95 DOOR CORNER RAIL, L/H, aluminum 15 472-180 $12.95 DOOR CORNER RAIL, R/H, aluminum 16 453-255 $24.95 DOOR TOP RAIL, L/H, wood 17 453-260 $24.95 DOOR TOP RAIL, R/H, wood 18 453-265 $32.95 REAR COCKPIT RAIL, wood 19 321-828 $14.95 HARDWARE SET, rear rail 1

321-808 $7.75 HARDWARE SET, door rails, does not include #20 210 472-460 $14.95 REAR CORNER RAIL, L/H, aluminum 111 472-470 $14.95 REAR CORNER RAIL, R/H, aluminum 1

472-128 $19.95 DOOR SEAL FINISHER SET, chrome 116 472-130* $6.95 FINISHER, R/H, rear 1

472-140* $6.95 FINISHER, L/H, rear 117 472-150 $6.95 FINISHER, R/H, front 1

472-160 $6.95 FINISHER, L/H, front 1* Note: The rear door seal finishers supplied are the type used prior to car number 101292 (i.e. all the last 7800 cars). Although the late finishers are not available, the early ones may be easily trimmed to match them.

19 470-570 $4.85 SOCKET, side curtain 220 324-425 $1.65 WASHER 221 310-390 $0.55 NUT, for socket 222 405-300 $6.95 PLATE, side curtain 223 323-115 $0.10 SCREW 624 405-100 $5.95 NUT, side curtain 1500 225 405-150 $7.95 NUT, side curtain 1600 & MKII 226 SIDE CURTAIN STOWAGE BAGS (see page 49) 127 226-308 $1.00 FASTENER, ‘Lift the Dot’ 728 226-328 $1.00 STUD & WASHER 129 226-630† $2.35 STUD, flanged 4/632 SPARE TIRE COVER - see carpet listings on page 50 134 241-000 $20.95 ASHTRAY, original factory option 135 451-095† $5.95 STIFFENER, door panel 2† Note: These stiffener bars should be painted to match door panels. They’re often missing, but are necessary to properly support the door panels.



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48

Top & Tonneau Hardware

Coupe

"Competition Deluxe"(rare factory option)

Note: These illustrations and descriptions are for reference only: "Competition-Deluxe" seats are not available. Parts listed do not fit Competition Deluxe seats.

Seat Components

Roadster


11 453-225 $18.95 LATCH, header rail 1600 & MKII 112 240-520 $4.65 CATCH, windshield center 1

15 TONNEAU COVERS are listed in detail on page 49.16 226-308 $1.00 FASTENER, ‘Lift the Dot’ tonneau 620 226-408 $1.90 STUD, wood screw A/R21 226-708 $0.90 STUD & NUT, machine screw A/R22 315-168 $1.45 WASHER SET, clear nylon (set of 10) under studs A/R23 227-500 $1.10 TURNBUTTON 224 226-630 $2.35 STUD, flanged, alt. for ft. tonneau fixing A/R25 323-600 $0.15 SCREW for #24 A/R26 227-310 $0.25 FINISHER 2

643-875 $154.95 SEAT FRAME, roadster, L/H 1643-885 $154.95 SEAT FRAME, roadster, R/H 1

1 454-045* $42.95A SEAT SLIDE PAIR, L/H seat 1454-055* $42.95 SEAT SLIDE PAIR, R/H seat 1321-878* $13.50 SEAT SLIDE INSTALLATION KIT 1

2 641-905* $103.10 BASE ASS’Y., L/H (plywood, w/riser & screen) roadster 1641-915* $103.10 BASE ASS’Y., R/H (plywood, w/riser & screen) 1

640-400* NA BASE ASS’Y., L/H (plywood, w/riser & screen) coupe 1640-410* NA BASE ASS’Y., R/H (plywood, w/riser & screen) 1

3 641-925* $49.95 CUSHION, L/H seat bottom, uncovered roadster 1641-935* $49.95 CUSHION, R/H seat bottom, uncovered 1

640-420* NA CUSHION, L/H seat bottom, uncovered coupe 1640-430* NA CUSHION, R/H seat bottom, uncovered 1

640-460* $39.50 PAD, seat back (rubberized horsehair) roadster & coupe 2These pads must be trimmed to fit.

640-470* $12.95 BACKBOARD roadster 2640-480* NA BACKBOARD coupe 2

* Note: These items are for “standard” roadster and coupe seats only. They do not fit thecompetition deluxe seat.

1 TOPS are listed in detail on page 49.2 226-308 $1.00 FASTENER, ‘Lift the Dot’, top 63 227-408 $0.50 EYELET, top 24 244-200 $15.95 RETAINER, rear of top 15 470-747 $4.95 RETAINER, on body 26 470-757 $2.25 CUP WASHER 27 406-890 $219.95 TOP FRAME 17a 323-260 $0.50 SCREW, top frame to body 68 453-250 $44.95 HEADER RAIL, wood 19 406-200 $8.75 WING BOLT 210 406-920 $5.25 SOCKET, header rail 2


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Tops and TonneausMoss MGA tops and tonneau covers are in a class by themselves. The rear windows of

the cloth and canvas tops* are sewn and double-bound in the very best European manner.We have carefully patterned, designed, and tested our tops and tonneau covers to provideperfect fit and years of satisfaction.

In addition to our top-grade vinyl, we are offering tops and tonneau covers in Haartz“Stayfast” cloth, which is a heavy fabric of American-made, solution-dyed acrylic of 3-plyconstruction with rubber center. “Stayfast” resists the effects of sun, weather, andatmospheric pollution better than any other convertible top fabric. It offers the ultimate inlong service life and color fastness.

Note: Early 1500 and late 1500 - 1600 tops are interchangeable. Tonneau covers listedare for left hand drive cars only. Right hand drive tonneau covers are available. Call forinformation.

(* The vinyl tops are not made by Moss Motors, and have dielectrically weldedwindows as original for the MKII.)

Tops & Tonneau Covers

Black Tan Red Grey1500 & 1600 to (c)78249 243-280 243-300 243-290 243-350 $149.951600 from (c)78250 & MkII 243-285 243-305 243-295 243-355 $159.95

MGA 1500 “Flip-Up” Side Curtain SetsThese are exact reproductions of the “flip-up” type side curtains originally fitted to all MGA1500s. While not as practical as our other types of sliding window side curtains, these willsatisfy most restoration purists. Black “Stayfast” canvas flip-up side curtain set 259-645 $550.00Tan “Stayfast” canvas flip-up side curtain set 259-635 NABlack “Durable” canvas flip-up side curtain set 259-268 $549.95Black Vinyl flip-up side curtain set 259-258 $549.95

MGA 1600 Fabric Covered Side Curtain SetsWe now stock the original style fabric-covered side curtain sets for MGA 1600. We havemade these in the same Haartz “Stayfast” fabric and vinyl to exactly match the tops listedabove.Black “Stayfast” fabric side curtain set 259-615 NABlack “Durable” canvas side curtain set 259-628 $639.95Black Vinyl side curtain set 259-618 $524.95Tan “Stayfast” fabric side curtain set 259-625 $639.95Tan “Durable” canvas side curtain set 259-638 NAGrey Vinyl side curtain set 259-620 NA

MGA Side Curtains (replacement)We started with the original sliding plexiglass aluminum-framed side curtains as suppliedwith the factory hardtops, then made a few changes and improvements to ensure a perfect fitfor all MGAs with the standard pattern convertible tops. These side curtains are extremelywell made and nearly identical in construction to the factory optional side curtains. We firmlybelieve our new aluminum-framed side curtains are a permanent solution to a difficultproblem. A quality product at an affordable price! (Not illustrated.)

259-648 $344.95

Side Curtain Stowage BagsCompletely pre-cut and sewn. Ready for installation behind the seats.

Black “Stayfast” Black Vinyl Tan “Stayfast” Grey Vinyl White VinylCloth Cloth

TopsOne window, early 1500 243-955 $429.95 242-330 $249.95 243-950 $429.95 242-335 NA 242-340 NAThree window, late 1500 - 1600 243-965 $459.95 242-310 $249.95 243-960 $459.95 242-325 NA 242-320 $249.95Three window, MKII NA 242-950 $249.95 NA NA 242-960 $249.95

Tonneau CoversShort style, mounts on rear cockpit rail 243-985 $234.95 241-420 $159.95 243-980 $234.95 241-435 NA 241-430 NALong style, mounts behind rear cockpit rail 243-995 $234.95 241-520 $169.95 243-990 $234.95 241-535 NA 241-530 $219.95


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50

Black Red Grey Price(orig. for coupe)

1 MAIN CARPET SETCoupe or Roadster, LHD 242-705 242-715 242-725 $199.95

2 REAR CARPET SETRoadster 242-835 242-845 242-905 $72.50Coupe 242-975 242-985 242-915 $79.95

3 TRUNK CARPET SETOptional on Coupe & Roadster 242-815 242-825 242-925 $99.95

4 SPARE TIRE COVERAll Roadster & 1500 Coupe 242-465 242-475 242-935 $104.951600 & MKII Coupe 246-435 246-445 242-945 $69.95CARPET, per foot 456-295 454-460 456-405 $18.95

5 HEELMAT, included in #1 Main Carpet Set (Black only) 280-990 $10.95

Panel & Carpet KitsPanel KitsDeLuxe Panel Kits: Made as original from durable vinyl, the DeLuxe Kit includes 2front kick panels, 2 front frame covers, 2 door panels, 2 assembled door pocketsfor the roadsters and 2 rear kick panels. You also receive sufficient leather, vinyland piping to cover all door and cockpit rails, and 1600 MKII and coupedashboards, and vinyl to cover MKII and coupe scuttle panels (between dash andwindshield).

Basic Panel Kits: While not as complete as our DeLuxe Kits, these ‘budget’ kits, forroadsters only, are made with the same dedication to quality. They include 2 doorpanels, 2 front kick panels, 2 front frame covers that are fully finished and ready toinstall. Also included is sufficient vinyl and piping to cover all cockpit rails, latevinyl-covered dashboards and existing door pockets.

Original Combination Kit: For those who desire the entire package, this kit is theanswer. This concours quality kit combines both the leather seat kit and the deluxepanel kit. (For coupes, seat and panel kits must be ordered separately.)For free samples of our upholstery materials, order sample card #878-110.

Black with Black with Black with Black with Red with Tan with Grey with Blue withWhite Piping Red Piping Blue Piping Black Piping Red Piping Tan Piping Grey Piping Blue Piping Price

RoadsterDeLuxe Vinyl Kit 246-330 246-320 246-340 246-310 246-350 246-360 246-365 246-355 $289.95Basic Vinyl Kit 246-270 246-260 246-280 246-250 246-290 246-300 NA NA $199.95Combination Kit 246-028 246-018 246-038 246-008 246-048 246-058 246-068 246-078 $759.95

CoupeDeLuxe Vinyl Kit 246-390 246-380 246-400 246-370 246-410 246-420 246-425 246-415 $339.95

Panel Screw Set A complete set of original type screws and washers for installing doorand trim panels (included in all of our panel kits listed above).

323-948 $13.95

Carpet KitsCarefully patterned and cut for proper fit and ease of installation,these Moss-made carpet kits include the correct rubber heelmat, allnecessary studs and snaps, and edge binding where original.The main carpet set covers the seating and foot well areas. The rearcarpet set, standard on the coupe and optional on roadsters, addsthat ‘finished’ look to your car’s interior. To dress up your trunk, atrunk set and spare tire cover are also available in black and red. For free samples of our carpet material, order sample card #878-310.


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Seat Upholstery

Black with Black with Black with Black with Red with Tan with Grey with Blue withWhite Piping Red Piping Blue Piping Black Piping Red Piping Tan Piping Grey Piping Blue Piping Price

RoadsterComplete Seat Sets 246-118 246-128 246-148 246-138 246-158 246-168 246-178 246-188 $1,399.00Original Combination 246-028 246-018 246-038 246-008 246-048 246-058 246-068 246-078 $759.95

Leather Seat Kit andDeLuxe Panel Kit

Leather Seat Kit 246-030 246-020 246-040 246-010 246-050 246-060 246-065 246-055 $499.95Vinyl Seat Kit 246-150 246-140 246-160 246-130 246-170 246-180 NA NA $299.95

CoupeLeather Seat Kit 246-090 246-080 246-100 246-070 246-110 246-120 246-125 246-115 $499.95Vinyl Seat Kit 246-210 246-200 246-220 246-190 246-230 246-240 NA NA $299.95

Seat Upholstery KitsWhether you plan to replace only seats or panels, or fully restore your MGA interior, we havewhat you need! If you’re presently budget-conscious, our basic all-vinyl kits will give you abeautiful original style interior without the higher cost of leather. If the perfect Concoursrestoration or the luxury of long-wearing supple leather is what you’re after, our completeleather and vinyl combination kits will delight you. All are made from the best materialsavailable, and cut and sewn to original design specifications in our own upholstery shop. Weguarantee our top quality interior kits are designed to give professional results, even wheninstalled by the novice!Our complete seat kits are a unique combination of Concours quality, practicality andeconomy. Features include piping in contrasting colors when appropriate, and matchingpadded center armrests.Our leather seat kits are perfect reproductions of the originals with leather seating surfacesand vinyl non-wearing surfaces. Our leather is tanned and vat-dyed to the highest standardsto ensure durability. Proper pleat placement and correct stitching make these the best seatcover replacement kits you can buy. In fact, we’re so pleased with the quality of ourupholstery that we guarantee 100% satisfaction, or your money back upon return of theuninstalled kit!The same careful workmanship and concern for quality also go into our vinyl seat kits. Thesekits, like our leather kits, offer premium materials and factory original colors. The qualitymaterial, the proper colors, the perfect fit - all say “this is how an MGA should look”. Thecomplete seat sets listed below are ready to install seat pairs with new frames, cushions,covers, and center armrest.

Note: We strongly advise ordering upholstery items on a“Backorder Yes” basis. These parts are made to order inour own upholstery shop and stocks are kept to a minimumbecause of the wide variety of products involved.

Upholstery orders can usually be filled within a couple ofweeks of the order date. If you order seats and panels onseparate occasions, we recommend that you not leave morethan 3 - 4 months between purchases. While we makeevery effort to match colors as closely as possible, dye lotsdo vary. For a guaranteed “close as humanly possible”match, it’s best to order your interior as a complete set. Forfree samples of our upholstery materials, please requestsample card #878-110.


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Windshield Installation

Note: Our (and possibly some other) replacement MGA windshields arerelieved for several inches at the corners to clear the corner brackets, anddo not require the rubber packing nor the original wooden packing referredto in paragraph #3 above. Only the glazing rubber should be used with thesewindshields.


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Accessories

Aluminum Cockpit Trim SetsMade of polished ribbed aluminum, these attractive and practical cover sets are supplied withmounting screws.

Frame Cover Set (shown) - Four piece set covers the exposed frame sections in the interior.240-500 $33.95

Threshold Plate Set - Covers and protects sills from scuffs.240-600 $19.950

Scuff Plate Set - Protects the lower front corners of your door panels where your shoealways hits the door.

240-700 $23.95

Throttle Plate - Prevents (or covers up) carpet wear where your throttle foot rubs the carpet.240-900 $14.85

Identification PlatesHigh quality photo-etched reproductions of the original plates will give your car the finishing“just like new” touch. A. Heater Number Plate 408-350 $3.40B. Heater Caution Plate 408-360 $2.95C. Patent Number Plate 408-750 $3.95D. “MG” Valve Cover Plate 408-800 $5.95E. Valve Cover Patent # Plate 408-810 $4.95F. Chassis Number ID Plate 408-720 $9.95

(from late 1500 thru MkII)G. “Auster” Windshield Plate 408-790 $2.95

Rivets for “Auster” Plate 325-210 $0.25

Factory Style Luggage RackThis luggage rack mounts to the trunk lid on wide chrome plated straps.244-700 $209.95

Thermostat Bypass Blanking SleeveFine reproduction of the original works competition part 11G176. Forsustained maximum power and speed, such as under racing conditions, itis advantageous to remove the thermostat, but only when this sleeve isfitted. 434-135 $15.95

Vintage Style SeatbeltsKeep yourself and yours in the car by installing a pair of seatbeltstoday! Belts are black with solid steel chrome plated aircraft typebuckles. Sold individually, mounting hardware included.

222-235 $22.95

Wood Rim Steering WheelOnly for MGAs, this Moss-made reproduction of the light alloy “Italian Style” optionalcompetition item is “the” wheel to have on your finely restored car. Centerpiece #263-110sold separately. 263-255 $499.95


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Does your car let you down every time you try to startit, or those wipers only work when it is not raining?Perhaps the indicators go dim every time you apply thebrakes, and the horn only operates when the lights areoff.Before you go out to buy new lights, horns, switch gear,voltage rectifiers and anything else that carries anelectrical current, it may be worthwhile spending timechecking out the wiring rather than shelling out on newparts.Quite often I have found that electrical components

supposedly faulty, are perfectly all right, i.e., “blown” headlamps which are intact,switches that work when connected to a multi-tester, horns that stop making funnygurgling noises and operate correctly when connected to the battery for a test.Many electrical faults are caused by two frequently overlooked factors, eitherworking separately, or together to produce a variety of interesting visual andsometimes pyrotechnic effects. The first ofthese factors is simply caused by ageand the climate - electro-rheumatism if you like. Thesecond is caused bythat stalwart of themotoring world, CaptainAccessory!I am alwayssurprised bythe largenumber ofgood qualityproducts onthe market (andthis does includeradios, etc.)which are let down eitherby the cheap, easy-to-useconnectors sold with the kit, or by“hash wiring” on the part of the installer. Fitting any accessory should be dealt within the same way that any other task should be undertaken on a vehicle - properly.Connections should be mechanically and electrically sound.The worst electrical problems I have faced have been caused by “bodged” wiring orfaulty connections. Easy-to-use connectors often provide me with hours ofentertainment, as does unwrapping electrical insulation tape to find wires that havebeen just cut, stripped back and twisted together. It always works for a while!And it’s not bodged wiring - some products are of an appalling quality. For example,I have tried various different HT leads in my car to “improve the quality of the spark”,“reduce resistance”, and “provide better ignition”. Most of these leads have beenuseless. It doesn’t matter two hoots that the PTFE casing and superior qualitycopper core offers less resistance than the normal standard item - what matters isthat if the cap doesn’t fit the spark plug, it will just bounce off. One famous makehad such appalling connections that it would not fit into the standard Lucasdistributor.If you are going to tackle any electrical work for your car, then do it properly and doit once. Throw away those cheap connectors ad get the right tools to do the jobproperly - because I can guarantee that if you don’t, that one day you’ll wish you had- or even worse, you’ll get rid of the car because it keeps going wrong. (I’ve pickedup a few cheap cars like that which sing after two or three hours with a solderingiron!)Get the Right Tools:1. Soldering Iron - Get one with: 5 to 15 watts output, stay clean tips, decent stand,and PTFE leads (which make the iron easy to handle.2. You probably already own one of those multi-purpose devices that cuts, stripswires and fits connectors. Throw it in the trash. Buy instead: Long Nose Pliers, SideCutters, Wire Strippers, Insulation Tape, and Solder (60 - 40 lead/tin mix with fluxincorporated).3. Connectors - Get the type of connectors that are already in use on your car -spade connectors and bullet connectors (that can be soldered) and throw the crimpconnectors into a bin!Three important safety tips:1. Disconnect the BatteryA fully charged battery can use around 120 amps to turn over a cold car engine.Making a mistake and accidentally connecting the “hot” lead to the earth can havesome interesting affects, i.e.:i. Any wire involved in a direct connection will act like a fuse and melt (this includesHT wire).ii. The battery could explode if an HT wire does not fuse quickly enough.iii. 120 amps is enough to weld your screwdriver to any object very easily.iv. You can receive nasty burns if you use yourself as a suitable earthing point.(Remember DC current differs from AC in that it does not change direction - once

DiagnosingWiringTroubles!(Words ofWisdom toLive andDrive By)

you get to grips with DC it won’t let go!) 2. Holding the soldering ironNever grab the soldering iron if it starts to fall. Sounds obvious, but there are stillplenty of electrical engineers around who hold out their left hand when greetingsomebody!3. Suitable wiringFinally, make sure that the wires you are using have the correct current capacity forthe power they have to take. Using cable that is too thin is the electrical equivalent ofreducing three lanes of motor way into one - total breakdown - if the current is muchhigher than the wire, the wire will act like a fuse and melt.Making Connections1. Spade connectorsStrip back 1/4” of wire without ripping out half of the strands, (if you have neverused wire strippers before, have plenty of practice with some old bits of wire) twistthe strands together and solder the bare end.Always heat the wire with the soldering iron and apply the solder to the wire while itis still in contact with the iron. The wire must be hot enough for the solder to flowinto the wire strands - but don’t keep the iron there for too long, otherwise the outersleeve of the wire will melt back. It is an art worth learning. Do not apply solder to the iron and then try to “blob” the solder on to the wire - itnever works because the solder “dries out” as the flux evaporates, and then theresulting joint can become brittle and prone to breaking (aka “Dry Joint”).Once cool, fit a spade connector sheath over the wire and then crimp the connectorto the wire as shown in the diagram The crimping makes a mechanically soundconnection, but this is not enough. Returning to the soldering iron, you then need toapply heat to solder the wire to the connector to ensure an enduring connection, justlike they do at the factory.2. Bullet connectorsBullet connectors are needed where (A) two separate lengths of wire are to be joinedtogether or (B) where an extra wire is to be added to a main feed.Many bullet connectors can be crimped on as well as soldered to enhance the qualityof their connection, but the stock items used by BL tend to be a bit more tricky andcan only be soldered - so you must ensure that the soldered connection is not dry!Strip back 3/8” of cable and solder the strands. Insert in the end of the bullet - it mayhelp to “kink” the strands slightly to keep the bullet in place - and then re-apply thesoldering iron to the top of the bullet. Allow it to heat up and then apply the solderthrough the hole at the top of the bullet so that it can run inside, attaching the cableto the wall of the connector.The advantage of these connectors is that, if corroded, the connector block can bethrown away and a new one fitted without having to do any more soldering. Also,they can provide multiple outlets for power, but watch out for that current overloadon the original feed wire!The disadvantage is that the connector is a mechanical fit and prone to electricalfailure when corroded, which is why many cars start going wrong after five year’suse!An Extra Fuse BoxIf you are accessory mad, the use of a fuse box with a direct link to the solenoid mayprovide a safe, efficient answer, rather than connecting countless new wires onto anoverburdened wire feed.Again, make sure that the wire, from the feed to the box has sufficient capacity todeal with any load place upon it (an in-line fuse may further protect the entiresystem).Is it worth the effort you might ask? Yes! A clean job is a good job!1. If it’s soldered, then the connections will be better, stopping niggling electricalfailures and dangerous burn-outs; the connectors are cheaper too.2. The proper connectors often allow easier access for repair of equipment. 3. Stops wires from sparking and equipment lasts longer.4. It looks better, too!Finally, here are some good tricks to play on people wielding a soldering iron ontheir car.1. Blow up a paper bag and stand behind them. Burst the bag whenever you seethem cutting a wire or poking at something electrical with a screwdriver.2. Try swapping solder for tinned copper wire. It’s better than watching paint dry.(The other version involves merely turning off the soldering iron!)3. Offer to hold wires while they solder than swap one wire for a cut off length ofabout 4” long and then wait for sparks to fly when they realize they have justconnected a wire that goes nowhere.

Grahame BristowMoss Europe Staff


Tech Tips

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Mixture adjustment and synchronisation of SUs seem to bewidely understood. Of equal importance is the adjustmentof the choke mechanism. If set too rich, the choke will fillthe cylinders with raw fuel and dilute the engine oil causingpremature bearing, piston ring and cylinder wear. If set too

lean, the car starts hard, which drains the battery and overheats the owner.Of first consideration is the fit of the clevis pins in the choke levers. If these holds are wornlarger than the pins, the chokes will not operate through their entire range. New levers andclevis pins are the cure for this problem.Once the new parts are fitted, adjust the slack out of the choke linkage at theinterconnector link. Slacken the top and bottom nut so the linkage is “relaxed”, then tightenthe bottom nut so that just a bit of pressure is brought to bear on the lever. Do notovercompensate, as this will “pre-load” the chokes and cause over-rich mixtures. Once setto your satisfaction, run the top nut down on the fitting to lock the adjustment. You maywant to use an extra nut on the bottom as a lock nut. Now, hook up the choke cable. Giveit a turn to the right to help the cable lock work, and don’t get the cable too tight; leave alittle slack.The choke cam may be adjusted to suit weather conditions by moving the link rod to theappropriate hole. #1 opens the butterfly a small amount slowly, #3 opens it a large amountquickly. #3 is intended for colder weather, #1 for warmer climes. Yours may be set at #2where the majority were set to begin with. If so, you may want to leave it alone, as the #2setting seems to work in just about any climate.The choke adjusting screws should be set last of all, and should be backed off completelywhen setting the idle, and synchronizing the carburetors.Set the screws equally so they are just shy of the cam, about 1/32”. Smear a dab of lightgrease on the cam face. If the chokes and idle screws do not hold their settings, newtension springs may be in order.

In this article we will examine yet another alternative ignition system for your Britishsports car, the Mallory Dual-Point Distributor. What makes the Mallory uniqueamong point type ignitions, is, as the name implies, it has two separate sets ofpoints to do the work of one. What are the advantages to using two sets of points?

In the Mallory distributor, one set of points opens theprimary circuit and the other closes it, giving a longerperiod of dwell (the period of time that the points areclosed, expressed in degrees).The dwell period is the time when the secondarywindings in the ignition coil charge the magnetic fieldup for another high voltage blast when the points open(20,000-40,000 volts!). It can generally be said that thelonger the period of dwell, the higher voltage the spark.On most four cylinder engines, the dwell period isabout 60°, but the Mallory Dual-Point Distributor has adwell period of 72°, so even if you choose to use yourstock coil, you will still have a “hotter” spark, as thecoil has more time to charge itself up than with aconventional distributor. This is accomplished in theMallory unit by the following process. In the fourcylinder distributor the point cam has eight lobes, andas it rotates, it opens the primary set of points

completely, triggering the coil. Then the lobe rotates another 8° and opens thesecondary set of points. Shortly after the secondary set has begun to open, theprimary set closes, and the ignition coil starts charging even though the secondaryset is still open. After the secondary set has closed the process starts again for thenext cylinder. Why not just crank open the points for more dwell in your stock distributor? Youcould, but this would have an adverse effect on the ignition timing and the pointswould wear in short order, as they are designed to work at a specified gap, all ofwhich would result in a loss of performance and economy. Another feature of theMallory Dual-Point Distributor is the fact that it has a full centripetal advance unit,rather than the part-centripetal, part-vacuum advance system used on the stockLucas distributors. This feature may make it illegal for use on pollution-controlledvehicles (check your local and state laws before using this unit on the street) butmakes it perfect for use with high performance engines equipped with sidedraftcarburetors that often lack a vacuum port for use with a stock distributor. TheMallory unit is also easily adjustable for total amount of ignition advance, and comespreset at 28° allowing the serious enthusiast the ultimate in tune-ability. The MalloryDual-Point is supplied without a drivedog or gear, which must be transferred fromthe old distributor. Mallory has been making high performance ignition systemssince 1932, was even a popular modification to MG TCs when they were new!Today there is a Mallory Dual-Point to fit most British cars, so if you’re looking forthe ultimate in high performance ignition systems, look no further than the MalloryDual-Point distributor.

Ben TravatoSanta Barbara, CA

The purpose of the SU damper is to retard the rapidupward movement of the piston on the rapid throttleopening associated with acceleration. This delay inpiston movement causes a momentary decrease in

pressure at the throat, thus achieving a momentary increase in richness much thesame as with an accelerator pump. The weight of the oil in the damper determinesthe amount of dampening. A lot ofrace mechanics use automatictransmission fluid for some misguidedreason obscure to me. I think it is toolight for normal use. SU publicationsrecommend 20 weight, which I wouldfollow. (Moss sells the correct SUdashpot oil, under #220-225 for a125ml. bottle -Ed.)Do not overfill the damper. The properprocedure is to fill “below the top ofthe hollow piston rod”, not “below thetop of the chamber neck”. Overfillingjust spills over into the suctionchamber and makes a mess. One easycheck is to remove the damper and then re-insert it. If you feel resistance before youreach the threads on the cap, you’ve put in enough oil.

Jim TaylorKansas City

SU CarbDashpot Oil

FluidLevel

If your car is still slow starting, or won’t start inwet/damp weather, and you have checked andconvinced yourself that your battery is strong, thegrounds and hot connections are all good, timing,plugs, and points are all up to specs, it is now time to

go to the next step. You should seriously consider replacing your old,probably weak and/or worn out stock 25k coil with a new, highvoltage 35k or 40k volt coil. They are available atreasonable prices. If you are a purist, restassured that the Lucas Sports Coil (Moss#143-200), is still available, although notoriginally fitted at the factories. Mostlikely if all the other electrical stuff isworking well, you will solve yourwet/damp starting problems with a highvoltage coil. Try it, and if you are like me, you will wonder why you or Lucas didn’tdo it 20 years ago.

Tom K’BurgSalem, NJ

DampStartingProblems

We know that the balancing of SU carburetorsrequires the removal and replacement of theanchoring nuts and bolts, and washers for the aircleaners. We also know the contortions required toreplace the washers and nuts up under the carbs (as

well as the kneeling, searching and cursing when we drop them...twice!). I think thefollowing might simplify the problem.The holes in the carb flanges that the 1/4” (.250”) air cleaner anchoring bolts gothrough are .257” plus (at least the ones for “H” carbs) and this just happens to bethe recommended hole size to install 5/16” x 18 t.p.i. helicoils. Run the 5/16” x 18t.p.i. tap in a helicoil kit into these holes with the wing nut tool. The insert may be alittle long for the thickness of the flange but screwing a 1/4” x 18 tpi bolt throughwill break off the little tang and set them.Now the removal and replacement of the air cleaners is from the outside, andwashers and nuts under the carburetor are not required. This method can also beused on other British cars with the same set-up.

Donald LaTrobeHuntington Beach, CA

BalancingSUCarburetors

AdjustingYour MGAChoke


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Freshly tuned carburetors, proper running adjustments,an oil and filter change; these are just the start of asuccessful driving season. Making sure that your car willstop is probably the most important part of the springmaintenance routine. This year, why not give your car a

thorough brake safety check?Excessive pedal travel and/or excessive handbrake movement indicates an overdueadjustment or the need for new pads or shoes.Sticky wheel cylinder pistons or incorrect master cylinder push rod adjustment willresult in a ‘dead’ feeling pedal. Air in the system is the most common cause of‘spongy’ pedal. These are the most common of storage-related brake problems.An obvious and serious brake problem is indicated by the abnormal loss of fluidonce the car is put in service. Do not just keep on filling the reservoir; clean andtighten the brake fluid connections. Look for fluid seeping out of the cylinder seals.Pay special attention to the master cylinder. If wheel cylinders leak into the brakeassembly, the fluid quickly ruins the shoes.Leaky rear oil seals are also a prime source of brake contamination. Often, both leakywheel cylinders and oil seals rob your stopping safety. Determine the culprit andcorrect the problem.Shoes that have been soaked with brake fluid and oil may sometimes be reclaimedwith a proprietary brake cleaner, but it is usually necessary to replace them, as rearaxle oil will soften the friction material, greatly reducing its efficiency and safety.As brake fluid is susceptible to water contamination, it is essential to bleed the brakesystem once a year. Worn seals will allow air to enter the system without a sign offluid leak. The need for repeated bleedings is a sure indicator of this fault.Absolute cleanliness is essential when servicing brake systems. Be sure that themaster cylinder top is clean before it is opened, so no dirt or grit enters the system.Small rubber caps (Moss 031-300) are available to cover bleed screws, and are aninexpensive and convenient way to keep dirt out of the bleeders. Wash thebackplates and any other gritty areas before anything is disassembled for service.Remove the drums and clean the parts with brake cleaner or soap and hot water. Donot use an air blast to clean brake assemblies. The asbestos particles are a provencarcinogen. Do not handle the clean parts with dirty hands.Carefully inspect the cylinder bores. Units having rust pitting, score marks, and‘rings’ left by corrosion must be replaced. Internal parts must also be in good order.Disc brake pistons that are rusted or corroded will not hold a seal, nor will plungersand pistons that are scored or worn on one side.

Examine the rubber hydraulic hoses. Theconnections to the metal piping arecommonly covered in grease. This areashould be kept clean so any indication ofcracking or swelling can be observed. Anuncommon problem with rubber hydraulichoses occurs when the inside of the hoseswells and cuts off the fluid flow.

No problem is apparent on the outside. Ifyou are bleeding the system and no air orfluid passes from the cylinder in question,consider removing the rubber hose for closeinspection.It is preferable to visually inspect front drumbrake systems where two cylinders are used.

Back off the adjusters to permit the removal of the drum. Get a helper to push thepedal gently. Observe the action of the cylinders’ pistons - only one cylinder may beworking, while the other may be stuck. That will stop the wheel, but not very well. Ifthe cylinder does not retract fully when pressure is released you can see right awaythat it will have to be rebuilt. Tech Tip: Stuck pistons can be forced from cylinders by air pressure. Clean thecylinder; remove corrosion in the exposed bore. Use an air nozzle to force air intothe cylinder, covering the open end with a rag to prevent damage from flying pistons. R.B. HartMoss Motors Staff

SpringBrake Tune-Up

2. Check cylinder seals for fluid leaks, oilseals for gear oil seepage.

3. The general method is to turn the adjustersclockwise until the shoe comes up against thedrum, “clicking back” until the wheel turns free.

1. A damp backing plate or drippingbetween drum and backing plateindicates trouble.

Like many others, I grew up with a strong andunwavering belief in the commandment: “Thou shalt notcross-rotate radial tires, nor cause reversal of their

directional rotation”. A friend of mine even carried two used spare tires (couldn’tafford new ones in those days) in his Fiat - one which had been run on the left sideof the car, and one on the right. He wasn’t going to risk having a tire fly apartbecause he broke the rules! Thus, my initial reaction to Mr. Kraft’s letter was disbelief, followed by curiosity. Do$500 truck and bus tires live by different rules than our relatively tiny andinexpensive sports car tires? Have two generations of drivers spent their automotivelives believing in tire fables? Coker Tire Co., Firestone, The Kelly-Springfield Tire Co., and Pirelli Armstrong TireCorp. responded to my plea for authoritative commentary with a unanimous “It’s OKto cross-rotate radial tires, with the exception of ‘Temporary Use Only’ spares, andtires with uni-directional tread patterns”. Firestone added the recommendation that

the vehicle manufacturer’sinstructions be followed, eventhough their tires can becross-rotated. Our thanks tothese companies for all theinformation they sent, andspecial thanks to Mr. JimHildebrand of Coker Tire Co.who added: “I understand thatthe original theory (commonto the late ’60s) was that,particularly on the drive tires,the torque would cause theradial side wall cords to slant,and if rolling direction waschanged that a balanceproblem might exist. Furtherresearch and testing disprovedthis theory. The basis beingthat a slanting of the side wallcords did not actually takeplace.”

Approved Rotation Patterns (extracted from information supplied by Pirelli Armstrong)The purpose of regularly rotating tires is to achieve more uniform wear for all tireson a vehicle. Before rotating tires, individual owner’s manuals should always beconsulted for rotation recommendations for specific vehicles. If no rotation period isspecified, tires should be rotated every 6000 to 8000 miles or at any sign of unevenwear. The first rotation is most important.If the tires show uneven wear, ask the service person to check for and correct anymisalignment, imbalance, or other mechanical problem before rotation.

Car & Light Truck Tire Rotation PatternsDo not include a “temporary use only” spare tire in any of these rotation patterns. Ifthe vehicle owner has a regular tire as a spare and wishes to include it in the tirerotation process, the proper procedure is as follows:Use one of the four tire rotation patterns, but insert the spare in the right rearposition, and place the tire which would have gone to the right rear position in thetrunk as the new spare.When tires are rotated, inflation pressures must be adjusted in accordance with thevehicle manufacturer’s recommendations.Eric WilhelmMoss Motors Staff

Rear & Four WheelDrive Vehicles

Four WheelDrive Vehicles

All VehiclesAll VehiclesFrontFront

FrontFront

TireRotation


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One of the less popular aspects of wire wheels isthat they tend to go “out-of tune” and needoccasional straightening (or “truing”). This iscaused by the spokes stretching and by the spokeholes wearing, both of which result in a change inspoke tension. This causes the rim to run out-of-round. Consider that the weight of the car is suspended onthe few spokes that are uppermost in each wheeland that they are constantly moving into and out ofthis weight-bearing position when the car ismoving. Add side loads from cornering and you can

understand the stresses that cause the spokes to stretch and move around.A wheel which is tuned to run true may be kept this way by a monthly checking ofspoke tension. Run a pencil around the spokes and note whether any make a soundwhich is markedly lower in pitch than the others. Tighten these “flat” ones with aMoss spoke wrench (#385-800) and you will maintain the wheel in a nice, roundcondition. Old WheelsIf your wheels have not been trued for some time, simply tightening the “flat” spokeswill not necessarily make them run true. You might just tighten them permanentlyinto their buckled condition! An old wheel should be properly trued to eliminateradial and lateral run out before being put on the monthly maintenance program. New WheelsWhen the wheels are assembled at the factory, they are laced so as to be withinfactory tolerance for radial and lateral run out. Since the hubs, rims, and spokes arenew, this tolerance can be achieved without the spokes necessarily being tensionedevenly! Result? When a new wheel is subjected to a load, it may go slightly out ofround. Even when the spoke tension is correct, some settling will occur during thefirst couple of hundred miles, as the spokes and nipples bed into their seats. A goodpractice with new wheels, therefore, is: A) Check spoke tension before mounting new tires. Tighten any loose spokes, checkfor excessive run out and remedy by tightening appropriate spokes.B) Drive gently on new wheels at first, allowing them to settle in without severe stress. C) Re-check spoke tension and run out after new wheels have been used for acouple of hundred miles or so. Following this procedure, and remembering to clean and re-grease the hub splinesevery 4-6 months, will give you years of trouble-free life from your wire wheels.Lawrie AlexanderMoss Motors Staff

About WireWheels

I was no stranger to English cars. I had pleasant earlyassociations with the unique aroma of Wilton wool carpet,mixed with Connolly hides and top-down summer days spentin an older brother’s Jaguar. Those childhood memories

were, as much as anything else, responsible for my buying a Rover 2000 some yearslater. I exorcised the ghost of Henry Lucas periodically from that Rover for years. Itmight have been the memory of quality enamel, faultless chrome, or picnic basketsthat made me recall the best qualities of those cars and forget their weaknesses, butI now find myself in a well-cared-for MGB. A feature new to me, and one I gave little thought to before buying the car, were thewire wheels. Then I read in the owner’s manual that the splined of wire wheelsshould be greased periodically to prevent binding at the worst possible time: whileaway from home, and possibly in foul weather. Removal of the first three wheelstook a matter of minutes. A wire brush applied to the splines, careful wiping, andapplication of a thin coat of grease proved a simple, almost pleasant job. I was idlyimagining having a flat in traffic and replacing it with the spare in next to no time.Then I tried to remove the fourth wheel. What I thought was “a little snug” turnedout to be frozen tight. Pry bars, then wrecking bars proved no match. Penetrating oilapplied through tubes to reach behind made no difference. Hammering withincreasing intensity produced only a ringing in the ears. The most amazing aspect of the whole experience was the lack of good adviceavailable. I called numerous mechanics and wheel/tire specialists, only to hear thatthey had no special tools or equipment to solve this problem. A kind of one-upmanship emerged in the story telling of normally helpful mechanics. I heard aboutthe guy who replaced the whole rear end, the guy who changed the tire right on thecar, and the guy who put the car in a broadslide and still couldn’t get the wheel off!Finally I told my tale of woe to an industrial mechanic. He was more at ease withheavy machinery than light sports cars, but his answer came without hesitation.Handing me a large gear puller, he said, “Heat the wheel”. I told him it would ruin thepaint and he assured me that was the least of my problems! “You can always get itpainted, but if you deform it, you’ve ruined it”, he told me. “It’ll come off hard all theway”, he predicted “but let the heat do the work for you. The axle will act as a heatsink, keeping the spline cool as the wheel expands”. I first confirmed that the penetrating oil I had used was not flammable. Then Icarefully positioned the three arms of the gear puller between the spokes. It might benecessary to disassemble the gear puller to avoid bending the spokes; this is asimple matter. Considerable pressure can then be applied very evenly, withoutdistorting the rim, but probably still not enough to loosen the wheel. The torch is the charm. Concentrate heat between the outer spokes, while turning thewheel slowly. I did this for what seemed like far too long a time and was about togive up when a sound very much like a twenty-two caliber rifle scared me to death. Ijumped, yelled, and nearly dropped the torch. Even then there was no obviousevidence anything had come free. The only noticeable change was that the gearpuller was not quite as tight as before. I gave it a turn or two and began heatingagain. A minute or two later, “Pop”, another sixteenth of an inch! That was the way itwent all the way off. (To save all this trouble, the owner’s manual warning to removethe wheels and grease the splines regularly should not be taken lightly. )Ed. Note: Your gear puller will have to have relatively fine jaws to fit behind the wheelhub. A harness can be made by securing a chain around the hub and attaching thegear puller to the chain. Tom StraussLancaster, PA

StuckWheels

Because servicing them is a dirty job, wire wheels areperhaps the most neglected components on a Britishcar. Many times I’ve bought or worked on a car andfound it nearly impossible to remove one of the wheels!This is likely due to very hard, dried-up grease whichessentially freezes the wheel on.

I’ve heard about many techniques for removing stuck wheels with torches andchisels, and even trying to drive around without the knock-offs installed to loosenthe the wheel. Before resorting to such drastic measures, try using a can ofcarburetor cleaner to dissolve dried up grease. Jack the car up, remove the knock-offs and spray well up into the cavity between the wheel hub and the splinedextension, The carb cleaner will dissolve hardened grease in short order.Be sure to place a pan or tray under the wheel to catch the dissolved grease andcarb cleaner. Let the carb cleaner soak in for a few minutes and repeat the processwhile wiggling the wheel around to help break up hardened grease. Unless thesplines have become jammed together on the extension, this will allow you toremove the wheel easily.

DissolvingHardenedWire WheelGrease

The second most frequently asked question about ourcars must be “how do I take care of my wire wheels?”“Should the car be off the ground to hammer the

knock-off, or should the wheel be on the ground?” Well, that’s two questions, butthe problem remains...Whether you call it a knock-off, a knock-on, a nut or alocknut, BMC felt inclined to issue a Technical Service Bulletin on the matter. Inshort, you should always hammer the nuts on or off with the wheel off the groundand free to rotate. While they don’t say so, many people believe this will decreasethe force transmitted into the spokes from each blow. If the wheel is not free toturn, then the spokes take the full brunt of each hammer blow.The rest of the information is definitive! If you do as BMC says, your wheels shouldlast much longer than if you don’t. How many of you have had to hacksaw off awire wheel, as it had become rusted to the hub? A few of you have. So inspect,grease, and check your wheels at least once a year, preferably before the rainyseason. As an added precaution, why not use an anti-seize lubricant that comes in alarge can with a brush in the lid. One can should last a lifetime and isn’t all thatexpensive at a local auto parts store.One final word, don’t forget to use RTV silicone inside the wheel hub on top of thespoke heads - to seal out water and prevent grease or anti-seize lubricant frombeing spun out onto your spokes and wheels. Several of us have used thistechnique for years and it works great! What can you do if either the wheel hub or the center of the wire wheel is tooworn? It costs at least $25 a wheel to dip (removes rust and paint), true (tighteneach spoke uniformly, replacing several that won’t turn), and repaint (who wantsrusty wheels?). By getting new wheels, you might get by with a worn hub a bitlonger. A somewhat temporary trick is to use a couple of pieces of shim stock from.001 to .003 inches thick, spaced around the hub to tighten up the splines. It iseven possible to dress up the splines with a small file. But, these fixes just prolongthe inevitable; sooner or later the rear hubs will have to be replaced if they havebeen run with loose wheels.It makes good sense to take care of your wheels and hubs. If you don’t, you willcripple your car... As a postscript, an aluminum can will do in a pinch to get youhome if you spin a wheel. Use it for shim stock and the contents to soothe yourpending expenditure.Ron PhillipsLa Habra Heights, CA

Wire WheelCare


0Tech Tips

58

Before repairing a rusted area on a car, a “battle plan” must becarefully worked out. If there is any body filler or damagenearby, consider replacing more than just the rusted area. Ifadjoining panels are also rusted, a logical sequence ofoperations must be planned. Above all, have your Moss repairpanels in hand before cutting rusted/damaged areas out of your

car. This not only makes planning the job easier, but it lets you see exactly how therepair panel will fit. It’s also a good way to prevent cutting out an area larger than therepair panel, a potentially costly mistake. Careful measurements and marking areessential. Plan with care. Start from the inside out. Floors and sills (always before removing thebody from the frame if the car has a separate frame) are followed by inner fender anddoor pillars, after which come rocker panels and then fender patches. This is, of course,a very general outline. Equipment needed to produce professional quality repairs is generally beyond the tool

inventory of the average enthusiast’s garage, but it is often cheaper to purchase neededtools and equipment than to take the car to a body shop, especially if only “skin”repairs are required. The most expensive item required for this is most likely a M.I.G.welder or oxy-acetylene torch set-up to do the actual welding. (If only non-stressedareas are to be repaired, pop-riveting is usually adequate.) A few years back, an“inexpensive” M.I.G. welder cost just under $1,000. Recently there have been “tabletop”models available starting under $300, which puts these invaluable devices within thereach of many. For cutting the rust out of your car, I have found a hand-held 4” grinder with a cut-offdisc to be quick, clean, and accurate. These have the added advantages of producingvirtually no distortion in the metal, and can be used with grinding discs for grindingwelds. Chisels, hand shears, and cutting torches should not be used on most external panels, as they produce too much distortion in the surroundingmetal. Cutting torches are great for rough or preliminary work. Nibblers may be used,but are generally slow and leave a slightly ragged edge. They are good for cutting smallradius curves, however. Spot-welded panels such as rocker panels can usually be removed by carefully drillingthe spot welds with a drill of slightly larger diameter then the welds. If the welds aredrilled out through the entire assembly, the new panel may be plug welded from the“back” of the holes. If done carefully, appearance of the original spot-welds can beapproximated. In any case, once the spot welds are drilled, the old panel may beseparated from the piece it was welded to with a thin sharp chisel and vise-grips.Rocker panels are easy to remove if the main part is cut away from the welded flanges,and the flanges removed separately. Repair panels may be mated to the cuts made in the car by overlapping or with butt-joints. Overlaps are easily made, and may be welded or pop-riveted, but they leave agrossly uneven surface unless the edges of the “hole” are joggled, so that the surfaceof the patch and any rivet beads are slightly below the surface of the main panel. Thetime and effort to do this properly makes this method more difficult than butt-welding.Butt-welding is the joining of two pieces by their edges, and demands careful matchingof the edges. Whichever method is used depends on equipment available and what sortof panel is being installed. Floorboards and trunk pans can be installed with lappededges, while exterior “patch panels” should be butt-joined if a minimum of body fillerand finishing is to be used. Plan for drainage - there was a reason the car rusted where it did. Figure out why, andadd inconspicuous improvements such as extra drain holes where required. To install a panel, mark on the body of the car approximately where you think the edgeof the repair panel will be. Remove all of the original pieces to be replaced except for aninch or so along where the main joint or weld will be. It should then be possible toscribe an accurate line on the body for the final cut where the two panels will join. Cutthis carefully with as little distortion and with as smooth an edge as possible.Hold the repair panel in place, and note any areas which need attention. These could beunfair mating flanges, ragged surfaces (remnants of old welds, barbs left from roughchisel work, or slag from cutting with a torch), or poorly mating edges. Look forimperfections in the repair panel itself. Trim, grind, hammer (gently) or do whatever isrequired for a perfect fit all over. With the repair panel held or lightly clamped in place, place a small “tack” weld at thecenter of the major joint. In the case of a lower fender repair panel, especially when theweld will not be covered by trim and the joint is straight, allow the contraction of this“tack” to pull the bottom of the panel away from the car slightly - when later “tack” ismade and the bottom of the panel pushed into place, the joint will (usually) be slightlybelow the “correct” surface. The idea is to have the finished (ground-off) weld slightly“low”, so a light coat of body putty or lead is all that is needed to bring the repairedarea to smooth perfection. With the first tack in place, wiggle the panel around a bit for perfect alignment, andplace more tacks at 2-3 inch intervals from the center outwards in both directions, oneon one side of center, the next on the other side, and so on. By leaving a small gap between the two pieces to be butt-welded (about 1/32” is fine), asmall thin screwdriver or other object may be used as a lever to pry the two pieces asrequired to perfectly align the two surfaces at each tack. With the “cosmetic” joint(s) well tacked, weld the flanges and other edges of the panel,being careful not to allow enough heat to build up to cause any distortion. The best wayto do this is by “skip-welding”, in which short welds are made at long intervals aroundthe work until it is finished. Now go back and put a tack weld between each of theprevious ones on the “cosmetic” or “exposed” joint, aligning the surfaces as before. Doit again - a tack between the ones just made and the original ones. If the resulting gapsare more than about 1/2” long, do it again. With a hand grinder, carefully grind off thetops of all these little tack welds.

InstallingRustRepairPanels

After aligning the surfaces as before, use the skip-welding procedure mentioned earlier,to carefully weld in the gaps, again being careful not to cause adverse heat distortion. Grind off the excess weld carefully, without hitting the body panels. If you find the weldto be in a slight depression, congratulations! If the ground weld is still slightly raised,do not try to grind it and the edges of the now joined panels flat - you will make themetal too thin, and cause the weld to crack. Careful hammer work or heat shrinking isthe only cure - consult an experienced body man and/or a good book on bodywork. Common questions about repair panels are: (1) Why not braze them?, (2) Why not sellgalvanized panels?, and (3) Why aren’t all the repair panels supplied in primer? Brazingcan be used, but causes paint adhesion problems unless proper preparation andprimers are used. Galvanized panels should not be used, as the fumes from weldingthese are highly toxic. Furthermore, as the zinc is burned off at the welds, protection islost where it is most needed. All body panels should be stripped to the bare metalbefore finishing, and properly prepared for paint. It is easier to work with an oil-coveredor even slightly rusty panel than one already covered with primer that must beremoved, as it must be thoroughly cleaned anyway.

The most feared four letter word in a British sports carowner’s vocabulary must be rust. I once saw a TR250collapse in the middle when lifted by a tow truck; whenset back on all fours, the center portion of the frame wasresting on the pavement. Rust, caused by road salt andneglect, was responsible.

Even in areas where road salt is not used, rusting agents may be present which literallyeat holes in automobiles. Dilute sulfuric acid is present in many areas in the highlypublicized form of “acid rain”. Some crop spraying chemicals are also active rustingagents, while salt spray in coastal areas often turns cars into dangerous hulks of rustysteel lace. Once the rusting process has begun (often by the time the car reaches thedealer), it is too late for protection – remedial action must be taken immediately toremove existing rust, no matter how seemingly insignificant. The only way to remove rust which hasn’t yet eaten entirely through its “host” panel isto sand down to clean metal, treat the sanded area with a rust remover (mostproprietary solutions containing phosphoric acid work well), wash thoroughly toremove all traces of the rust remover, prime and paint. It’s a lot of work, even for arelatively small area. If rust is forming between two pieces of metal spot-weldedtogether, or otherwise lapped over each other, acid treatment is not recommended, as itcan’t be adequately neutralized. What can be done to de-rust a sealed, boxed-in area? Unless you can get to all rust-contaminated surfaces and de-rust them, there’s not much that can be done. Generally,the compounds advertised as “rust neutralizers” and such, have some rust retardantvalue, but they don’t seem to effect permanent cures. “Body cancer” is one of the leastpleasing pseudonyms of automotive rust, but one of the most accurate. Once rust haseaten through a panel, even in pin-holes, the only cure is to cut out the affected partand weld in a new piece. This can be more trouble and certainly more expensive thanprevention or immediate first aid when rust is first noticed, but it is the only way to curethe problem. Body-putty, lead, pop-riveted patches and other commonly used “repair”methods only hide the problem, they do not cure it. Rust has an even more dangerouscousin, the electrolytic corrosion of aluminum panels where they join steel, as on BigHealeys. In this case, the aluminum and steel, in the presence of moisture, act as anelectric battery, especially when the moisture is salt-laden and the temperature is warm.When this occurs, the aluminum crumbles and turns into white powder, leaving thesteel rusty, but usually sound. What makes this form of ‘body rot’ worse than rust isthat it is much more difficult to perform ‘cut and weld’ repairs on aluminum than onsteel. Prevention of corrosion is much easier than repair. When washing your car, washit thoroughly underneath as well. Do whatever you can to dry it - blow with compressedair, mop it dry, or open doors, trunk and hood to allow water to evaporate. Letting it sitout in the hot sun will dry it quickly enough. Above all, do not put a wet car in a heatedgarage; heat, combined with high humidity is what rust thrives on. Check the carthoroughly underneath for raw or rusty metal areas. Clean and protect them with paint,undercoating, or even grease. Have you ever noticed that the bottoms of your frontfloors never seem to get rusty, the oil from engine leaks protects them. (This won’tprevent floors from rusting from the inside, though.) Do whatever you can to preventrust from starting. Most commercial undercoatings work very well when properlyapplied. Checking a car for rust and finding all the rust is not as easy as it sounds. Forexample, by the time rust bubbles appear under the point at the lower front of MGB rearfenders, it’ s a good bet that at least the rear portion of the rocker panel (covered by thefender) and the vertical inner sill panel are in much worse condition. The only way to find this dangerous structural rust is to explore. Remove the outerrusted fender section, probe deeply and try not to be horrified by what is found. Onmost cars, removal of the front bulkhead sealer plates will show if there is any rust“inside” the lower rear of the front fenders. This is one of rust’s favorite spots. Whileexploring, the traditional “ice pick” method works, but I prefer to tap suspect areas witha body pick hammer which has the pick ground to a hemisphere about l/8” in diameter.Light tapping with this won’t damage sound bodywork, but it will, by sound and feel, ifnot by penetration, find all rust damaged areas which are not usually apparent. So yourcar’s like mine, well past the prevention stage, and ready for major surgery. Moss helpshundreds of us each year by supplying not only complete fenders, rocker panels, andfloor boards, but also repair panels which are designed to replace those areas of yourcar which are prone to rusting. Check the Moss catalog for the car of your choice andyou will likely be surprised by the number of such body repair pieces available.

Eric WilhelmMoss Motors Staff

The Basicsof RustRepair

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