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Learn how to construct a couture waistband using silk organza, hair canvas and Petersham ribbon. The result is a refined, lightweight and strong waistband without unsightly ridges or bubbles from traditional fusible interfacing.

Methods to Master:

CoutureWaistband

{ by Justine Abbitt }

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Supplies

• Skirtpatternwithside-zipperclosure

• Fashionfabric(amountaccordingtopattern,pluswaistbandmeasurements)

• Silkorganza,Petershamribbon&haircanvas(amountaccordingtowaistbandmeasurements)

• Zipper(accordingtopatternenvelope)

• Twosetsofhooksandeyes

• All-purposethread

• Handsewingneedle

• Removablefabricmarker

PrepareDetermine the desired skirt upper-edge placement on the body, such as the natural waistline or 1” below the natural waistline. The featured skirt sits at the natural waistline.

Measure your waistline circumference, and then add 1” for ease; record as the waistline measurement. Add 2” to the waistline measurement for the waistband underlap and seam allow-ance; record as the waistband length. Add 1” to the waistline measurement; record as the interfacing length.

From the fashion fabric and silk organza, cut one rectangle each measur-

SUPER SUPPLIESUsing tailoring supplies, such as hair canvas and Peter-sham ribbon, takes a simple garment to a couture level. Learn about these supplies and where to shop for them.

• Haircanvasisasturdywoven interfacing tradition-ally used in jacket and coat tailoring. Use hair canvas for garment areas that need a firmer hold or crisp structure, such as lapels, collars and waistbands.

• Petershamribbonisasoft,pliable and strong rib-bon that easily conforms to garment curves. Often confused with grosgrain ribbon, Petersham ribbon is a corded ribbon with scalloped edges, while grosgrain ribbon is a woven ribbon with bound edges.

• AlwayspreshrinkPetersh-am ribbon with steam from an iron, or lightly spray the ribbon with water and press with an iron set at a low temperature.

• Findhaircanvasinmostmajor fabric stores or online at specialty tailoring supply shops. Petersham ribbon is available in both brick-and-mortar and online millinery shops and trim stores.

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ing 21⁄2”x the waistband length. The finished skirt waistband is 11⁄2” wide.

From Petersham ribbon, cut one rectangle measuring 11⁄2”x the waistline measurement.

From hair canvas, cut one rectangle measuring 11⁄2”x the interfacing length.

Cut out the skirt pattern pieces, excluding the waistband, from the fashion fabric following the pattern instructions.

ConstructUse 1⁄2” seam allowances unless otherwise noted.

Construct the skirt front and back following the pattern instructions. Install the zipper into the left-skirt side seam following the manu- facturer’s instructions.

Position the organza rectangle right side up on a flat work surface. Draw 1⁄2” seam allowances along the rectangle perimeter using a removable fabric marker (1).

Position the hair-canvas rectangle right side up over the organza, aligning the edges with the markings; pin.

Stitch a lengthwise line along the hair canvas 1⁄8” from one long edge. Repeat to stitch lines 1⁄4” apart along the remaining rectangle width. Stitch a vertical line 1⁄8” from the hair-canvas short end and 1⁄8” from the remaining long edge. Repeat to stitch a line on the remaining hair-canvas short end (2). Designate the rectangle layers as the waistband interfacing.

Position the interfacing rectangle over the fashion-fabric rectangle with wrong sides together; pin. Hand baste along

the perimeter (3). Designate one long edge as the upper edge.

Fold the waistband upper edge 1⁄2” toward the wrong side; press. Hand stitch the seam allowance edge to only the hair canvas. Repeat to press and stitch each short edge to the hair canvas (4).

Position the waistband lower edge and skirt upper edge with right sides together, aligning one short end with the front-left side seam opening and the opposite short end 1” beyond the back-right side seam opening; pin.

Stitch the waistband to the skirt. Press the waistband up and the seam allow-ances toward the waistband (5).

Evenly center two hooks along the left-waistband wrong side, aligning the hook edges with the short end; hand stitch to secure (6).

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Fold each ribbon short end 1⁄2” toward the wrong side; press. Place the ribbon over the waistband with wrong sides together and 1⁄8” to 1⁄4” below the waistband upper edge; pin.

Handstitchtheribbonperimeter to the waistband using a fell stitch, making sure to stitch the ribbon over the hooks (7).

Evenly center two eyes along the right-waistband right side, 1” from the waistband short end; hand stitch to secure (8).

TIP: To increase or decrease the waistband width, add or subtract the same amount to the ribbon and canvas width measurements.

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