mc queen research / design development

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McQueen research : McQueen expressed his originality most fundamentally through his methods of cutting and construction. These were both innovatory and revolutionary. He was such an assured designer that his forms and silhouettes were established from his earliest collections, and remained relatively consistent throughout his career. Also, nature was the greatest, or at least the most enduring, influence upon Alexander McQueen. Many artists of the Romantic Movement presented nature itself as a work of art. McQueen both shared and promoted this view in his collections, which often included fashions that took their forms and raw materials from the natural world. ‘You’ve got to know the rules to break them. That’s what I’m here for, to demolish the rules but to keep the tradition.’ - Alexander McQueen

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Page 1: Mc queen research / design development

McQueen research   :

McQueen expressed his originality most

fundamentally through his methods of

cutting and construction. These were both

innovatory and revolutionary. He was such

an assured designer that his forms and

silhouettes were established from his

earliest collections, and remained relatively consistent throughout his career.

Also, nature was the greatest, or at least the most enduring, influence upon

Alexander McQueen. Many artists of the Romantic Movement presented nature

itself as a work of art. McQueen both shared and promoted this view in his

collections, which often included fashions that took their forms and raw

materials from the natural world.

‘You’ve got to know the rules to

break them. That’s what I’m here

for, to demolish the rules but to

keep the tradition.’

- Alexander McQueen

Page 2: Mc queen research / design development

-Color block, volume, long length, tight waist, feminine

-Long length, volume, skin out, structured, tight waist, feminine

Page 3: Mc queen research / design development

-Animosity, savage, naturness, structured

-Low-rise, skin out, short cuts, straight shapes

- Romantism, naturness, volume, tight waist, transparency, structured, pleats

Final design Inspiration   : Shape and color

Page 4: Mc queen research / design development

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Final garment   : Long circle skirt

Fabric swatch :

MINI PINK

Mcqueen

Mcqueen

COS 2015

COS 2015

COS 2015

Mcqueen

Mcqueen

Mcqueen

Page 5: Mc queen research / design development

Supplier: Tissus ReineColour : mini pinkComposition : 96%cotton 4%elasthane Properties: soft, smooth, ideal for summerPrice: £7/mWeight : 262 gr/ml

I choose this fabric because it is very soft and smooth, it falls off perfectly on the body. It is not too heavy or too light so the movements are easy and it is ideal for the summer season. Furthermore, it is sometimes a little bit shiny and the colour gets darker but flashy inside the pleats.

I decided to make a long circle skirt because I think that it

is a good combination of COS and Mcqueen.

Page 6: Mc queen research / design development

COS usually makes simple garments but large, with volume. And Mcqueen likes to make feminine garments, with volume and movement. Also this particular garment (picture below) of Mcqueen inspires me and that is why I did my skirt low-rise. I actually combined these pants to this skirt (pictures below) from COS.

COS skirt SS15 Mcqueen 1996

To me, the shape fits perfectly as a timeless piece. Because it remains very simple. There is no flashy or showy details. Furthermore, the whole skirt is made of one fabric only, so the colour remains the same everywhere and it makes the skirt more classic and sober.

For the colour, I choose a soft pink for several reasons. First because it reminds of the romantic creations of Mcqueen and then because pink is going to be one of the main colour of SS16. Also, COS tends to chose this colour for a lot of skirts and dresses since the past 2 years, which means that the customers like and buy these pink garments. Furthermore, this pink is twisting the skirt, it makes it glamorous and lovely.

COS

SS15 I evidenced colourways on the skirt

using optitex in order to know what colour could or could not have been chosen for the skirt.

Mcqueen SS12Première vision colour trends SS16

Page 7: Mc queen research / design development

As Mcqueen did in 1997, I tried to Make a print from a masterpiece.So this Skirt is printed with the Edvard Munch’s masterpiece The scream.The result is quiet close from the Mcqueen jacket but does not fit to the shape of the skirt. It makes it look like an aged and washy skirt because the skirt is too loose and not structured enough.

(left picture) This print is unusual as it is

« colour block stripes ». The pink is not bright enough to twist the skirt and make it really beautiful.

Furthermore this kind of print is never used by COS.

(right picture) In this bright red/orange, the circle

skirt looks amazing. It gives a summer touch to the garment which is very glamorous. There is a sort of contrast between the classic shape of the skirt and the flashy colour and I could definitely have chosen this colour.

White is a masterkey. COS uses it very often in its ranges and this colour would have been beautiful on this skirt. It can fit with everything else, it makes one think of summer, it is pure, simple but it takes effect.

Mcqueen AW 97Jacket printed with an image from The thief to the left of Christ by Robert Campin.