maximum yield australia january - february 2014

I N D O O R G A R D E N I N G

Australia January/February 2014

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2 Maximum Yield | January/February 2014

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CONTENTSJanuary/February 2014

6 From the Editor

8 Letters to the Editor

12 Ask the Experts

14 Max Facts

20 Product Spotlight

26 Master Media by Shane Hutto

34 No Plant Left Behind: Growing Your Own Hydroponic Grapevine by Ryan M. Taylor

36 Don't Let 'Em Fry: Managing Excessive Heat by Dr. Lynette Morgan

44 Growing on the Edge: Windowsill Gardeningby Karen Wilkinson

48 Noshing CO2 by Peter Vakomies

52 Building an Effective Fertiliser Regimen by Eric Hopper

56 Talking Shop

58 Distributors

62 Coming up Next Issue

62 MaximumYield.com

FEATURES

DEPARTMENTS

4452

48

26

36

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FROM THE EDITOR | lINDA jESSON

Linda Jesson

Message from the

Editor

cOnTRibuTORs

Shane Hutto is a technical advisor at Grodan Inc. He earned a bachelor’s degree in horticulture at Oklahoma State University and received a research assistantship for his master’s degree. During his graduate studies he researched production and extraction of surface waxes on horticultural commodities. His passion for growing is complemented by his experience in many types of controlled environment operations and design.

Ryan Taylor is the founder and president of the Taylor Horticulture Company. In addition to growing a wide variety of hydroponic and bioponic crops, he also specialises in the manufacturing of hybrid hydroponic systems and consults with horticulturalists on methods for optimising their production processes. Ryan is obsessed with hydroponics and his cat.

Dr. Lynette Morgan holds a B. Hort. Tech. degree and a PhD in hydroponic greenhouse production from Massey University, New Zealand. Lynette is a partner with SUNTEC International Hydroponic Consultants and has authored fi ve hydroponic technical books. Visit suntec.co.nz for more information.

Peter Vakomies, BSc, has 17 years experience as a professional silviculture grower, vegetable grower and horticulturist. He graduated from Simon Fraser University where he studied photosynthesis in nursery and fi eld settings. Living and working in British Columbia, Canada, Peter participated in growing more than 550 million tree seedlings for reforestation programs.

Eric Hopper has more than 10 years of experience in the hydroponic industry as both a retail store manager and owner. He continuously seeks new methods and products that could help maximise garden performance. Eric resides in Michigan where he and his family strive for a self-suffi cient and sustainable lifestyle.

Karen Wilkinson is a budding gardener with previous experience working in the hydroponics industry. Her background includes daily reporting, technical writing, marketing and promotions. After spending years living along California’s northern coast, she made her way to Sacramento where she currently lives and breathes the yoga lifestyle.

If your New Year’s resolution was to try something new in your garden or increase yields or both, we’ve got everything you need to succeed in all of your gardening goals. Shane Hutto gives us a rundown on different types of growing media, Peter Vakomies leads readers through an explanation of how plants consume CO2 and Eric Hopper has everything you need to know about building an effective fertiliser regimen. We’ve also included articles on growing grapevines hydroponically and windowsill gardening. And to help your plants survive the summer, Dr. Lynette Morgan has the details on managing excessive heat. To keep up-to-date on what’s happening in the industry, be sure to check out our Product Spotlight and Max Facts sections for the latest growing news, trivia and technology.

We have a fabulous lineup of articles and features for 2014 to help you achieve your maximum yield, however we appreciate and encourage your feedback and ideas on what you would like to see in future issues. Your opinion counts and we are offering a chance to win one of three $200 prizes to spend at your favourite grow shop for participating in the Maximum Yield Reader Satisfaction Survey. Simply go to maximumyield.com, click on the Reader Survey link at the top of the page, complete the survey and be entered to win.

Happy New Year from all of us here at Maximum Yield!

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Tenth I’m a Fan WinnerKevin Swisher from Michigan in the United States is the 10th winner of Maximum Yield’s I’m a Fan Contest. Kevin said, “I re-ally love Maximum Yield. It’s helped me out a great

deal with hydroponics and understanding things that you don’t find anywhere else. I’ve grown in soil for years, but over the last few I’ve really jumped into hydro and have had success. Now, after finding your magazine about two years ago, I’ve taken it to another level. Keep up the great work, and I will keep reading and being proactive in horticulture.”

Thank you for the great response, Kevin. We hope you enjoy your $100 gift certifi-cate at your favourite indoor gardening shop, Ultra Green Hydroponics.

Eleventh I’m a Fan WinnerSarah Herman from Massachusetts in the United States is the 11th winner of Maximum Yield’s I’m a fan contest. Sarah said, “I’ve been into landscaping

and gardening both professionally and as an avid hobbyist for more than 20 years now. Maximum Yield is a superb tool for valuable information, as well as learning about new and innovative methods and products. The articles and features are useful, and can be easily understood. The info can be used equally by the everyday hobby gardener, right up to serious professionals.”

Thank you for the great response, Sarah. We hope you enjoy your $100 gift certificate at your favourite indoor gardening shop, Mass Hydro.

Editor’s Note: We received so many submissions for our first annual I’m a Fan Contest and they were all a pleasure to read. Stay tuned to future issues of Maximum Yield for these and other opportunities to win great prizes.

Great WorkI love Maximum Yield. That’s pretty much the only thing you can say about them. Each and every person there is such a superstar! Keep up the great work and thanks for the awesome tour of your head-quarters. It’s amazing to see so many people so hard at work to bring us the magazine we all look forward to seeing.

–Brandon A., via Facebook

Matchmaking at a Maximum Yield ShowSix years ago, I went to a Maximum Yield indoor gardening show in Orlando, Florida, and I saw this guy I had previ-ously met on a business trip two years before at Simply Hydroponics and Organ-ics. We talked all night and had a great time together. We were both instantly hooked as soon as we saw each other. I didn’t give him my number that weekend because I thought the distance was too much—he lived in Largo, Florida, and I lived four hours away in Ft. Lauderdale, Florida, but that Sunday night I couldn’t stop thinking about him. He called me at work on Monday morning and I melted hearing his voice over the phone. I love you more than words can describe, Shawn Patrick Gorman! Funny the twists and turns life takes—never could I have imagined that “that guy” would later be the father of our children and the love of my life. I am very, very happy that I decided to go to that show. I have never been happier; I am blessed for having him in my life.

–Paulette Gorman, via Facebook

Editor’s Note: What a great story, Paulette! Thank you for sharing it with us.

Kevin Swisher

Sarah Herman


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LETTERs TO THE EDITOR volUMe 11 – nUMBeR 5 January/February 2014

Maximum Yield is published bi-monthly byMaximum Yield Publications Inc.

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I am not entirely sure what you are referring to as primary mould, but I do know how to battle moulds, mildews and fungi. The best solution, in my opinion, is sulfur. Sulfur kills moulds and mildews on contact. Sulfur can be bought in powdered form that can be dusted on the plant leaves. I like to use a soft brush and dust the leaves gently, as if I am a detective dusting for prints. This is most effec-tive if you only have a few plants.For getting rid of mould on a large scale I recommend

using a sulfur burner. A sulfur burner will vaporise sulfur pellets, filling your room with a sulfur mist. When doing this make sure your ventilation is off for 10 minutes or so. Also make sure there are no exposed flames such as a pilot light, because it can ignite the sulfur mist.There are other methods that are less effective but will do

the trick. You can spray the plants with a diluted ammonia and water solution at one part ammonia to 20 parts water. This is effective and relatively safe. Neem tree oil sprays and pine tree oil sprays can also help eliminate mould. There are also a wide range of copper-based fungicides available. They are highly effective but only practical on a small scale.

What is the best way to control primary mould?Roger

Sincerely, Matt LeBannister

To help prevent a recurring mould problem, try to lower humidity levels and temperature in your growroom. Also keep your growroom immaculately clean, ensuring to wash equipment in between crops.All of these solutions should be available at any quality

hydroponic retailer, and the staff should be able to walk you through whichever choice you make. I hope this helps.

Matt LeBannister developed a green thumb as a child, having been born into a family of experienced garden-ers. During his career, he has managed a hydroponic retail store and represented lead-ing companies at the Indoor Gardening Expos. Matt has been writing articles for Maximum Yield since 2007. His articles are published around the world.


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MAXFACTS GrOWING TIPS, NEWS AND TrIVIA

Figuring out Figs Figs have been cultivated since ancient times and are well known throughout the world. The unusual fruit grows on a deciduous subtropical tree, native to Western Asia. Figs have grown successfully in home orchards and backyards since early European settlers first brought them to New Zealand. They make ideal candi-dates for espalier or container planting. With an age-old reputation as a sustain-ing and nourishing food, figs are friendly to the digestive system in either fresh or dried form because they contain an enzyme called ficin that helps the digestive process. Dried figs are a rich source of fibre, iron, potassium and calcium, and weight for weight, a fig contains more fibre than most other fruits or vegetables. They’re also high in polyphenol antioxidants, which can make them a valuable food for cancer prevention. Established fig trees should bear 180 to 360 fruits per year.(Source: incredibleedibles.com.au)

tasmania Home to First Alpine Sword-Sedgeresearchers have discovered a high-altitude species of sedge in south-western Tasmania. A small clumping plant, Lepidosperma monticola grows on mountains including Mount Field and Mount Sprent. It is unique in the genus in being the only species essen-tially restricted to alpine vegetation. At less than 7-cm tall, this Tasmanian endemic is also the smallest known species of Lepidosperma. Species of the genus Lepidosperma, commonly known as sword-sedges, mostly have long, flattened leaves that are shaped like a double-edged sword. Many also possess sharp, cutting leaf margins, alluding to this common name. The genus has more than 100 species and is widespread across Australia. It is of particular ecological interest because its fruits are removed by ants after falling. Individual plants are often inconspicuous, growing in the crevices of rock outcrops. (Source: sciencedaily.com)

A New App for GrowersInfoVeg, launched by AUSVEG, is a new mobile and tablet-friendly research database

for vegetable growers. The web-based app is a powerful new tool that places a wealth of vegetable-related r&D into the hands of growers and has been de-

signed to bridge the gap between research and growers. “We recognised a need within the industry to centralise vegetable r&D so growers could easily access technical information. Given that growers are not desk-bound, we wanted to provide them with the ability to access that information out in the field,” says Andrew White, AUSVEG manager of industry development and communica-tions. “There is a lot of good research being done by the vegetable industry, but it’s of no use if growers can’t access it when they need it.” InfoVeg is avail-

able on Apple, Windows or Android smartphones and tablets. (Source: ausveg.com.au)


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Have Fun at a Food SwapAll around Australia, fruit and veggie swaps are taking off like never before, and they offer a real solution for that lorry load of lemons going to waste at your place. These are generally non-commercial events (meaning no money changes hands), and many fruit and veggie swaps will allow swapping of other types of items as well, from worm wee to chutney, and chook poo to cackleber-ries. Sustainable Gardening Australia has kicked off a series of fruit and veggie swap meets, an opportunity for the gardeners of Melbourne to meet once a month, share their extra produce with people who will appreciate it and swap their bounty of broccoli for another grower’s excess of eggplants. Mary Trigger with the SGA says this is a giant step forward towards urban sustainability.(Source: sgaonline.org.au)


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tachinid Flies There are 542 named Australian species of tachinid flies, making the family Tachinidae one of the largest families within the insect order Diptera. The tachinid flies are among the good guys of the beneficial insect kingdom. They feed on other insects, usually the larvae of moths and but-terflies, but also beetle larvae or adult beetles and adult bugs and grasshoppers. One species parasitises caterpillars just before they pupate, resulting in several flies emerging from the chrysalis instead of a butterfly. As such, the larvae of this fly are well adapted to living inside their food. Tachinid flies are extremely diverse in appearance; they can be quite drab or brightly coloured, and some even mimic wasps.(Source: sgaonline.org.au)

South Australia Extends GMo ban South Australia will extend a moratorium on genetically modified crops until

at least 2019. SA is the only mainland state maintaining a ban on GM crop production and trials. Government Minister Leon Bignell says

the state’s GM-free status gives primary producers a competitive advantage in key overseas markets, adding that a continuing ban

would help protect premium food and wine production and allow grain producers to attract higher prices. “We’ve

got a strong reputation not just around Australia but around the world for producing clean,

green premium food and we think having a moratorium on the

growing of GM crops really helps us in that end,” he says. Opposition agriculture spokes-man David ridgway says a ban needs regular review to ensure restrictions on growing GM crops did

not put local farmers at a disadvantage. “We support

a moratorium, but it needs to be monitored,” he says.

(Source: au.news.yahoo.com)

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Fruits for changeThe Australian Melon Association has joined the fight against climate change, winning a major grant to reduce on-farm greenhouse gas emissions. The Fruit Salad Project will bring together growers from the melon, blueberry and banana industries. The project, worth a total of $1.42 million, will investigate the role of soil amendments, including biochar and compost, in increasing soil carbon and reducing nitrous oxide emissions in melon, banana and blueberry enterprises. Demonstration trials will be conducted on farm sites located in Cowra, New South Wales and Bundaberg, Queensland. The Fruit Salad Project is part of a larger soils-based project supported by funding from the Australian Govern-ment’s Department of Agriculture Action on the Ground program. Australian

melon growers produce $250 million in product annually.(Source: melonsaustralia.org.au)

Asparagus Season Saggedrain, hail and fluctuating temperatures made for another unpredictable season for West Gippsland’s asparagus growers. A warm September was followed by intense hail storms, which damaged the plants. Dal-more grower Alan McDonald says it was a difficult year. “We had some very low weeks when we should have had peak production, and cold weather knocked everything on the head,” he said. Alan says growers receive less for hail-damaged asparagus, even though the effect is only cosmetic. Despite this being the second consecutive year of wild weather in the area, Alan says Koo Wee rup and Dalmore remain the best places to grow asparagus. “I think there’s still a future growing asparagus in the area; even though it’s fragile, it’s fairly hardy.” (Source: abc.net.au)


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potent carrotsHere’s another incentive for guys to eat their fill of colourful fruits and veg-gies. researchers at Harvard University’s School of Public Health in Boston in the United States found that orange and yellow produce can increase the quantity and quality of sperm. Carrots in particular were singled out for their sperm-boosting properties. These orange veggies, along with lettuce and spinach, are high in beta-carotene. researchers found that this antioxidant improves sperm motility, or its ability to swim toward an egg, by 6.5 to 8%. Lutein, a carotenoid or antioxidant also found in spinach and lettuce, had a similar effect on sperm motility. researchers also found that participants with diets rich in lycopene, the chemical that gives tomatoes their red colour, had lower levels of abnormally shaped sperm.(Source: nydailynews.com)

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Measure Master Graduated Measuring bucketSunlight Supply is pleased to announce the release of the Measure Master Grad-uated Measuring Bucket with a comfort grip handle. Made with heavy-duty food-grade material, this bucket works well for blending small batches of nutrient solutions, or can be used for adding nutrients to large reservoirs. It is clearly marked in litre, quart and gallon incre-ments and is simple to clean. Handle your solutions with the Measure Master Graduated Measuring Bucket. With our general purpose measuring tools, we substitute the need for estimation and guesses with precision and accuracy. Our mission is to bring calculated order to the world of finite measure. Visit a specialty garden centre near you for more information.

Adjust-A-Wings Double Ended large reflectorSunlight Supply is pleased to announce the arrival of the Adjust-A-Wings Double Ended Large reflector. This reflector was made specifically for double-ended, 1,000-W HPS horticulture lamps (not included). Full spectrum DE Lamps used in the fixture focus on the red component for increased photosynthetic response. They offer improved PAr values and increased PAr/lumen maintenance (up to 90% PAr at 10,000 hrs of opera-tion). Unmatched in output, uniformity and performance, you can’t afford not to have this reflector in your growroom. This great new reflector features all the great Adjust-A-Wing attributes gardeners have grown to love. Visit a local retailer for more information.

Nutrifield premium coco chips blend 50/50Nutrifield®is excited to release a new product in Australia that blends coco coir with a coco chip structure to deliver explosive yields and dynamic growth. The coco chips measure between 15 to 25 mm, allowing for faster rehydration. This innovative chip structure allows growers to customise air and water ratios at the root zone, which is crucial in fighting plant disease. Combining the properties of coconut fibre and pith, Coco Chips Blend 50/50 offers roots a larger open-pore area, allowing roots to breathe better and encouraging stronger root structure and better drainage. Unused nutrient solutions are easily flushed away, while moisture retention abilities and faster nutrient uptake is upheld. The chips also provide better cation exchange capacity. The smaller chip size also allows for greater insulation against excessive heat or humidity, offering growers peace of mind that root zones will be cooler than the atmospheric conditions surrounding them. Nutrifield Premium Coco Chips Blend 50/50 is designed for gardeners who desire the ultimate nourishing environ-ment and greater results. Visit a specialty garden centre for more information.

the Hood from GrowliteGrowlush is happy to announce the arrival of The Hood from Growlite. The Hood is a 6-in. and 8-in. air cool reflector made of premium quality materials including 95% Hammertone reflective German dimple aluminium internal. It has a lightweight design and a black matte finished outer body to match the OG and Karma in the black line of hoods. The Hood features a hinged door frame for ease of cleaning and accessibility to the lamp, a slim, tempered glass lens and a 4.5-m lamp cord. It’s suitable for all HPS and MH lamps ranging from 250 W to 1,000 W and pair of V-hooks is included. The Hood is 59.69-cm long, 53.34-cm wide and 23.50-cm high and is UL, CE, roHS and C-Tick approved. It is distributed by Growlush in Australia and New Zealand. For more information, visit a grow store near you.


prOdUCT SpOTLiGHT

YOUR GUIDE TO THIS ISSUE’S HOTTEST ITEMSAsk for them at your local indoor gardening store.

Growlite's oG Grow light HoodOG (Original Growlite) offers quality hydroponic reflectors using the finest components, materials and finishes, as well as innovative, cutting-edge designs and CVAT (concealed vacuum airflow technology) for maximum yield. The CVAT technology has been proven to expand lumen performance to increase reflector efficiency by 30%. Compared to the average reflector, this technology will create more uniform light nutrients and produce larger yields at harvest time. It also takes the heat away from the reflector much faster and more efficiently. OG is perfect for growrooms with heat issues and to continue your growing during the summer season. Features include: user-friendly installation and maintenance, vertical lamp for even light distribution, black matte powder coat finish, removable door for lamp access and easy clean-ing and 0.32-cm-thick tempered glass. The OG comes with a pair of V-hooks for mounting, uses MH and HPS bulbs and has UL, CE, roHS and C-Tick approval. It is distributed by Growlush in Australia and New Zealand. Ask for the OG Grow Light Hood at your local gardening store.

regen-A-root from cX HydroponicsGrow monster roots with regen-A-root. regen-A-root stimulates monster root growth while boosting the naturally occurring immune de-fences of plant root systems. Instead of containing rooting hormones, regen-A-root contains the required precursors for naturally occurring plant auxins. This approach guarantees phenomenal root development with-out sacrificing top growth, making it safe to use throughout both vegeta-tive and flowering stages. A lush, healthy, produc-tive root system every time is CX Hydroponics’ guarantee to you. All CX Hydroponics additives, including regen-A-root, are formulated to work with any nutrient line. For more information, check out a local grow store.

21Maximum Yield | January/February 2014


the Hood Xl from GrowliteGrowlush is happy to announce the arrival of The Hood XL from growlite, a 6-in. and 8-in. air cool reflector made with 95% Hammertone reflective German dimple aluminium internal. These extra-large hoods are the “bigger is better” range of reflectors for professional growers. The Hood XL has a lightweight design and a black matte finished outer body to match the OG and Karma in the black line of hoods. The Hood XL features a hinged door frame for easy cleaning and accessibility to the lamp, a slim tempered glass lens and a 4.5-m lamp cord. It’s suitable for all HPS and MH lamps ranging from 250 W to 1,000 W and a pair of V-hooks is included. The Hood XL is 85.72-cm long, 71.12-cm wide and 25.40-cm high and is UL, CE, roHS and C-Tick approved. The Hood XL is distributed by Growlush in Australia and New Zealand. For more information, visit a grow store near you.

Head Masta from cX HydroponicsMany growers obtain high quality at the expense of high yields, or vice versa. Head Masta ensures both a heavy-yielding and high-quality crop. In addition to stimulating an internal hormonal signal that increases flower formation and creating additional flowering sites, Head Masta pumps plant cells full of extra vitamins and minerals required by the plant to convert excess light and nutrients into the highest quality proteins, amino acids and carbohydrates. Head Masta also adds weight-producing silicon to flower cells and increas-es its thirst for potassium. All CX Hydroponics additives, including Head Masta, are formulated to work well in any medium and with any nutrient line. All CX Hydroponics products are designed for use with consum-able crops and are PGr/hormone free. Stop by a local gardening store for more details.

Supercloset’s improved SuperFlow-20 and SuperFlow-32 SuperCloset has improved the SuperFlow-20 and the SuperFlow-32 to supplement its product line of SuperPonics hydroponic systems. The SuperFlow-20 is a 20-plant system spread across 1.21-m trays and the SuperFlow-32 is a 32-plant system spread across 1.82-m trays. Both systems combine ebb and flow and aeroponic hydro methodologies in one system. A central control reservoir feeds the ebb and flow system that spans the four-tray arrangement. The aeroponic hydrosystem is a simple air stone configuration that will not clog. The SuperFlow is compatible with organic nutrients and promotes rapid root growth because of the custom-moulded, thick-gauge, HDPE-food-grade, UV-resistant reflective reservoir and trays. The SuperFlow is easy to operate, clean, fill and drain due to its customised valve and tube array. For more information on these improvements, stop by an indoor gardening shop.

Nutrifield premium coco perlite blend 70/30By combining coco and perlite, Nutrifield® has brought together two mediums that will improve plants and yields by increasing the oxygen levels within the root zone. Coco coir is known for its superior water-holding capabilities, while perlite’s drainage properties are second to none. Boasting high thermal insulation protection, Nutrifield Premium Coco Perlite Blend 70/30 is a vital ingredient for growers facing hot weather and humidity. The open-pore structure keeps the root zone cooler, which means there is more oxygen avail-able to the roots, increasing the AFP to around 45%. By combining specific ratios of rHP-certified organic coco and perlite, Nutrifield has improved the physical properties of the coco, reducing the possibility of over-watering and saturation while maintaining essential water retention abilities. The grower is now total-ly in charge of watering and wettability while the media offers better drainage to rid root zones of unused nutrients. Nutrifield Premium Coco Perlite Blend 70/30 promotes a dynamic growing environment for

serious growers who expect explosive results. Visit your favourite garden centre for more information.


prOdUCT SpOTLiGHT

Karma reflector by GrowliteGive your plants the light they deserve with the Karma. The Karma reflector uses Growlite's patented CVAT Technology to create 100% inter-nal lamp reflectivity. By creating 100% lamp reflectivity, the Karma is able to redistribute the light spread over your canopy, allowing for complete, maximised, uniform plant growth. Features include: horizontal lamp for even light distribution, concealed vacuum airflow technology, black matte powder coat finish, 20.32-cm duct for airflow (push or pull), removable door for lamp access and easy cleaning, 0.32-cm-thick tempered glass and 22-gauge steel. The Karma comes with a pair of V-hooks for mounting and is standard with a 4.57-m cord and ballast plug, suitable for all HPS and MH lamps between 250 and 1,000 W and CE, UL, roHS and C-Tick certified. Visit your local grow shop for more details.

Xtreme Gardening Mykos Wettable powder Mykos Wettable Powder is for use on established plants. Simply mix with water and apply around the base of each plant. It’s great for use in hydroponic reservoirs. Mykos is a specific species of mycorrhizal fungi that works faster and stronger. It grows the biggest and best fruits, vegetables and herbs and also helps leap start new transplants and shield roots from shock and disease. When it comes to mycor-rhizae, Mykos can’t be beat. Best of all, it’s affordable on any budget. Mykos is a beneficial additive and may be used with any nutrient line. Application is suitable for soil and other media, hydropon-ics and irrigation. Mykos Wettable Powder—Water-in, roots-out. For more information, visit an indoor gardening store.



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Masterby Shane Hutto

The beginner indoor gardener has a loT To Think abouT, including whaT growing medium To use. shane huTTo Takes us on a Tour of all The differenT kinds of sTuff you can use To grow oTher sTuff.

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For most of us, the beginning was all about what to grow—and we thought about that long and hard—but what we’d grow that stuff in was an after-thought. Once you have your light source and your space set up, though, you’ll finally start thinking about what medium to use. Most of the time you start with what your mentor uses: whether it’s your buddy, your local retailer or something you’ve read on the Internet, typically the first person who tells you what they use and who sounds like they know what they are talking about is who you end up fol-lowing. This usually gets you at least something in the way of yield if you’re lucky, but we all want to get the most out of our garden. Today’s consumer is bombarded with

choices. Rockwool, hydroton, coco coir and peat mixes (what most call soil or soilless mixes) all have their pros and cons and each of these choices is available in its own particular varieties and brands, so a beginner can be over-whelmed quickly. The fundamental ques-tions to ask yourself before deciding on a particular grow medium are: how well do you read instructions and how often do you plan to check on your plants? As a beginner, you will have to learn

when and how much to water and feed your plants, regardless of the type of medium you are using. Getting the most out of your garden is about find-ing a balance between how much effort you need to put in and how much time you have to devote to your hobby.

Follow the InstructIonsWhen preparing your medium, the most important advice I can give you is to follow the instructions: they are on the bag for a reason! Most peat mixes are ready to go and require little preparation other than filling up your plastic pots. Rockwool is easy to prepare as well—the 24-hour soak requirement is simply a myth, you just have to rinse the rockwool in pH 5.5-adjusted water for a few minutes. After the presoak it’s ready to use. Hydroton is similar in preparation to rockwool in that it must be rinsed—with plain water—but it must then also be agitated to remove the excess sediment. Then you just need to fill your system and you’re good to go. Coco coir is a preparation-intensive medium. It does come in bags, but still usually needs the salts rinsed out. Mostly, though, it comes in bricks, which are convenient to carry but expand significantly once water is added. The bricks must be soaked and broken up. I like to use a garden spade and break them up while they are soak-ing. Coco coir must also be rinsed after it is broken up to ensure the high salt content is flushed away.

regular sanItatIonAnother time-consuming task is regular sanitation. In any controlled growing environment, whether it’s indoors or in a greenhouse, regular cleaning is a must. Whether it involves picking up dead leaves and bugs or just general floor cleaning, there’s always something

“the fundaMental questions to ask yourself before deciding on a particular grow MediuM are: how well do you read instructions

and how often do you plan to check on your plants?”

MASTER MEDIA

to do. Which medium you use will make a difference in how long your clean-ing chores will take. Coco behaves a lot like peat in this category; when dry it flies all over the place and seems dusty. Hydroton is good in that it doesn’t fly around, but drop part of a bag or a net pot full of those round clay balls and they roll everywhere. Rockwool tends to be dust-free after the initial wetting and once it’s in place it pretty much doesn’t move unless you move it.

waterIng and FeedIngThe next major task is determining how often you need to water or feed your plants. This is also the job that is the easiest to mess up, no matter which medium you’ve chosen to use. The answer a horticulturalist will tell you is “when the plant needs it.” You can certainly over-water plants in an indoor garden—if you watered peat two times a day in an indoor environ-ment, the plants would be dead in a couple of weeks! Soilless mixes should be checked for moisture by feeling the weight of the pot or by sticking your finger about 5 cm below the surface to feel the moisture yourself. Another characteristic of the soilless mixes is they change to a lighter colour as they dry and if you practice this can be a good indicator of when to water. Hydroton feeding is almost the oppo-

site; it can pretty much be watered throughout the daily light cycle and remain viable because it retains virtually no moisture.



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Coco retains nutrients well, but it also drains well. Rockwool also falls in the middle: it’s designed to hold air and water evenly so it can be watered frequently, but it still holds enough air for the roots to breathe. The amount of water your plants need will fluctuate the most in rockwool. On the hottest days (or under strong light) they should be watered often with short-duration soak-ings, but for cool, windless days they may be watered only once. Factor in all these considerations

when deciding whether a medium is going to be easy for you to work with. The truth is that they are all user-friendly to a degree and you must decide which is best for your needs. The peat mixes are user-friendly in that you do not have to monitor the pH too much and you’ll still get a nice plant. Hydroton is great because it’s really hard to over-water. Rockwool and coco both have their ups and downs for new growers. Rockwool is an easy medium to use because what’s in it is what you feed it; there are no hidden nutrients or other factors to consider in the root zone and it allows you to know exactly what you’re doing—whether you’re doing it right or wrong. I do tend to advise most new growers of the some-what temperamental nature of coco as a growing medium.

cost comparIsonsOnce you have chosen your preferred medium you’re off to the store to compare prices. Many of us start rethinking our options at this point. On first impression, the peat mixes seem like the clear winners for cost, but then you must consider the amount of peat it will require to handle the size of plants you plan to work with. Hydroton has a good structure and will allow plant roots to penetrate outside the clay, forming massive roots. Coco holds nutrients well and it’s expensive but can produce quality root masses. Rockwool actually has the best root mass-to-product volume in the hydro industry—it is manufactured so that a rock will expand to 50 times its size, with an equivalent amount of rock fibre. All that extra space is air space, into which roots can grow.

“all growing Media require regular Maintenance, which Means that

at soMe point your crop’s life cycle will coMe to an end and the Media

will have to be replaced or reused.”

MASTER MEDIA

medIa maIntenanceAll growing media require regular maintenance, which means that at some point your crop’s life cycle will come to an end and the media will have to be replaced or reused. The one thing to keep in mind when reusing any medium is that plant diseases are almost always species-specific. Media like hydroton are cost-effective because they can be reused several times, but must be thoroughly washed between crops. The other thing about hydroton reuse is that after several uses the rocks begin to break down and fall apart. Remember, we are dealing with water—the same destructive force that made the Grand Canyon! Rockwool can be reused but it has to be reprocessed first, back at the factory. In Europe a high percentage of commercial growers send back their used rockwool to be melted down and made into new rockwool again. In North America, used rock-wool from indoor growers is sometimes made into bricks for house building. Your used rockwool can be tilled into

the garden for aeration or it can also be reused for other species in potting containers. Coconut coir is not reused often, due to its propensity to hold high microbial counts. This happens because root zones establish beneficial fungi and bacteria that thrive as long as plants continue to grow, but once they are harvested the roots will begin to decay and diseases will be present in the medium. Peat mixes are similar to coconut in this respect—the mixes can be steam sterilised under high tempera-tures and pressure—but not everybody has the kind of expensive equipment this process requires.

Once you’ve mastered growing in each of the media we’ve discussed you’ll probably begin to think about plant quality, but that’s material for future articles. For now, you should realise that each medium offers its own set of challenges and benefits, but finding the one that’s right for you and your situation is key to success early in your gardening experience.



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No Plant Left Behind—

Growing Your Own Hydroponic Grapevines

bY RYAn M. TAYLOR

Who’s going to make Wine for the astronauts if nobody groWs any grapevines?

“Compared to a Control group grown in soil, the soilless grapes were 30% firmer, had 60% higher antioxidants and phenol Content— in other words, aroma—less baCterial growth and superior visual appeal.”


Grapevine growing tradi-tionally requires a substantial

investment and it can be years before any grapes are harvested. However, recent experi-ments have shown how hobbyists and commercial growers alike can grow better quality fruit faster.Think for a moment: if you were an astronaut stationed

on Mars for two years before returning to Earth, what plant would you want to cultivate as a guilty pleasure? Some people might say the cacao tree to make chocolate or maybe sugarcane or even some herb that makes everything taste better. All those choices are fine and dandy but without a doubt, I would choose grapevines—not because I love grapes themselves, but mainly because it’s hard to imagine going two years, let alone two weeks, without a nice bottle of wine (OK, even a cheap one will do).Over the past century, tremendous progress has been

made in hydroponic systems, nutrient solutions and grow-ing techniques as they relate to the growing of certain crops. However, our collective hydroponic knowledge and cultiva-tion experience has not progressed at a similar pace for a number of plants, particularly the grapevine. Why not? The short answer is that grapevine growing systems require large investments and in most cases, grapes aren’t harvested for the first few years of growth. While these two reasons are in them-selves daunting and will deter many from trying to cultivate grapes, I feel that no plant that adds such great value to soci-ety should be left behind. So to decide on an experimental set-up—including substrate and irrigation system—I began by looking into the scant research that has been done.One group of university researchers compared the results of

vines grown in deep water culture versus a continuous drip irrigation system with expanded clay as the medium. The former method didn’t provide enough oxygen to the roots, whereas the latter proved sufficient to grow vines successfully for two years as of the date of publication. Good to know, but this study didn’t get to what we are really interested in know-ing—how was the grape yield?

A research group from Turkey provides this piece of the puzzle. They grew vine cuttings—essentially dwarf grape-vines—in high-density, sub-irrigated beds of perlite. After six months of growing, they harvested clusters of grapes that were equivalent in size and quality to those of the mother plants, except that the individual soilless grapes were wider; they believe this is because of superior water retention. Great to know, but this study didn’t look at the long-term potential of soilless grapevine cultivation.Cue a research group from Italy, who grew a number of

table grape cultivars in a peat-perlite mix with drip irriga-tion. They waited the traditional three years to harvest grape clusters, and their patience definitely paid off. Compared to a control group grown in soil, the soilless grapes were 30% firmer, had 60% higher antioxidants and phenol content—in other words, aroma—less bacterial growth and superior visual appeal. They concluded that this system design has great potential for a commercial-scale vineyard. While this is only one report and definitely requires more study and confirma-tion, my internal voice can’t help but scream, “YES!!!”So now we know some basics about the potential for

hydroponic grapevine cultivation. Can grapevines be grown hydroponically over a sustained period of time? Yes. Will growers benefit from higher-density plantings and larger yields? Yes. Can a commercial-scale level of production be reached? Again, yes.I have been inspired by these recent results to begin

planting a few rows of grapevines for both short- and long-term growth. While it makes sense to imitate the successful methods reported earlier for the latter vines, I figure it is worth trying different methods for my single-season plant-ings. How well do vines grow in a flood and drain or deep flow system? There is only one way to know for sure—you have to experiment.As a parting note, I encourage everyone who loves wine,

grapes or even raisins to try their hand at growing grapevines. Hey, if for no other reason, let’s make sure our astronauts know how to grow their own in space!

“over the past Century, tremendous progress has been made in hydroponiC systems, nutrient solutions and growing teChniques as they relate to the growing of Certain Crops. however, our ColleCtive hydroponiC knowledge and Cultivation experienCe has not progressed at a similar paCe for

a number of plants, partiCularly the grapevine.”


Don’t Let ‘em Fry!

While indoor gardening seems like the perfect antidote to outdoor extremes, vents allow a little bit of the outdoors to invade our

protected growing haven. Fortunately, we have the technology to deal with these problems.

Managing Excess

ive Heat

by Dr. Lynett

e Morgan


“ If rEspIratIon Is burnIng a HIgH proportIon of tHEsE sugars, LEss Is LEft for pLant growtH anD DEvELopMEnt.”

Sweltering conditions, overbearing heat, extreme humid-ity or arid, dry air—these are the difficult outdoor climate challenges many growers face at least part of the year. While indoor gardening might seem like the perfect antidote to such outdoor extremes, the requirement to vent fresh air in and stale air out of a growroom means a little bit of the outdoors invades our protected growing haven. When ambient temperatures are mild, drawing air in from outside poses little problem (in fact, it helps maintain an optimal environment for growth), but when it’s 38°C outside and the air is dripping with humidity or as dry as desert sand, drawing air in and over the crop doesn’t quite provide those

ideal growing conditions that most plants are after. Fortunately, these types of problems are one of the reasons we have such highly developed greenhouse and indoor gardening technology—dealing with unfavourable outdoor conditions is what protected cropping is all about!

plant physiology and Excess HeatTemperature is a major controller of the rate of plant growth and affects many plant processes. Generally, as the tempera-ture increases, chemical processes within the plant proceed at faster rates until a maximum is reached and chemical inhibition occurs. Chemical processes in plants are regulated by enzymes and cell membranes, which perform best within a certain temperature range. Outside this range, chemical processes begin to slow down and can even completely stop. At this point the crop becomes stressed, growth is reduced and the plants might eventually die.



Cool season

crops such a

s

lettuce can

suffer under

hot growing co

nditions.

an infra-red thermometre can determine if leaves are actively transpiring and cooling themselves.

“ If aIr HuMIDIty Is HIgH, pLants struggLE to transpIrE EnougH watEr to HELp CooL tHEMsELvEs.”

Even temperatures slightly above the ideal range can have significant effects on plants. As temperatures increase, so too does the rate of respiration. Respiration is a process that burns the sugars produced during photosynthesis. If respira-tion is burning a high proportion of these sugars, less is left for plant growth and development, so yields subsequently fall. To make matters worse, high temperatures can acceler-ate water loss from the plants via the stomata on the leaf sur-face. If the plant senses the rate of water loss from the foliage is higher than it can sustain via root uptake, the stomata will close to protect the plant. Once stomata close, carbon diox-ide cannot diffuse into the leaf for photosynthesis and the photosynthesis process will shut down until such time as the conditions improve, meaning no sugars for growth are being produced. Combined, these processes (or lack thereof) mean plant growth can completely stagnate.

transpiration and root ZonesPlants have a natural process for cooling themselves: transpiration. Energy is lost as water evaporates into the air surrounding the leaf during this process, causing the tem-perature to fall (this is the same cooling we feel when sweat

evaporates from wet skin). This process is one we can take advantage of to measure heat stress. By using a simple tool, an infrared thermometre that non-destructively measures surface temperatures, we can determine if a leaf is actively transpiring and photo-synthesising, or whether it has shut the stomata to prevent excessive water loss. If the leaf surface temperature is a few degrees lower than the surrounding air temperature, then transpiration is occurring and cooling that surface. If the leaf temperature is the same as the air temperature or even slightly higher, then the stomata have shut and no transpiration is happening. This is also a great way to monitor plants under heat stress conditions to determine at exactly what temperatures they start to shut down, as this can vary between different species and in different growing environments. Note that humidity also plays a role in this process: if air humidity is high, plants struggle to transpire enough water to help cool themselves, but if humidity is low the rate of water loss might be too high for the plant to sustain and wilting can rapidly occur.

MANAGING EXCESSIVE hEAT



http://www.sunlightsupply.com

Misting and fogging

can be used to reduce

temperatures in some

circumstances.

nutrient chilling and root zone cooling can help some plants overcome the adverse effects of high-air temperature.

Transpiration and temperature also have an indirect effect on the plant’s root zone. Under hot and dry conditions, the rate of water loss via transpiration from the foliage can be high, particularly for those plants with large leaf areas. When this occurs, the plants draw water up faster from the root zone. This higher proportion of water to nutrient uptake means salts can build up in growing media, and solution culture systems often see rapid increases in EC under these conditions. Carefully monitoring the EC in the root zone becomes essential when plants are under this type of heat stress. Some plants are sensitive to this type of EC increase, so dropping the solution strength assists with water and cal-cium uptake under these conditions.

Dealing with High temperaturesControlling the effects of high temperatures in an indoor garden when the outside air is no help with cooling requires an integrated approach. Firstly growers need to know the

optimal temperature range at which their plants perform best. Many species such as tomatoes, cucumbers, melons and peppers are warmer season plants and require higher temperatures than cooler season crops like lettuce and other salad greens. However, the exact ideal tempera-ture of a plant is also dependent on other factors such as light level, stage of development, health, humidity and any other stresses (such as root problems) that could be pres-ent. Many warm season plants have an approximate ideal temperature range of 20 to 28°C and cooler season plants a range of 11 to 24°C, with humidity in the 70 to 75% range. If the incoming air is being superheated outside and is much higher than these optimal levels, the plants will often come under thermal stress.Within an indoor garden there are a number of methods

that can be used to cool the air and help the plants cope with temperature stress conditions. First, many indoor gardeners take advantage of having a small, insulated space and use air-conditioning units to cool air as it enters. This approach works fine, so long as a sufficient flow of air in and out of the garden still occurs to keep the environment healthy. Another approach in areas where the outside air is not con-

tinuously humid is to use evaporative coolers. Evaporative cooling works by pulling air into a greenhouse or indoor garden through wet pads or even entire walls of running water (this is termed fan and pad cooling). Water evaporates as air is pulled through the wet pads, removing energy from the air and lowering the temperature in the process.

“EvaporatIvE CooLIng works by puLLIng aIr Into a grEEnHousE or InDoor garDEn tHrougH wEt paDs or EvEn EntIrE waLLs of runnIng watEr.”




http://www.sunlightsupply.com

Even warm season crops can

suffer heat stress. know

ing

the optimal temperature for

each type of plant

is important.

The cooled air is then circulated through and over the crop, cooling the growing environment until it is vented out the other side. For fan and pad cooling to work at maximum effi-ciency, it is important to keep the growing area as airtight as possible so that air being drawn in from outside is forced over the wet pads and does not come in through other openings where it won’t be cooled. Some smaller growers have made their own fan and pad system using capillary matting and simi-lar materials, but these pads can rot over time if they are used continuously (and are therefore wet for most of the day).Commercially designed pads for evaporative cooling are

manufactured from material that often incorporates wet-ting agents and other compounds to resist rot. Algaecides can also be used in the water circulating through evapora-tive pads to prevent the buildup of algae on surfaces, which lowers the efficiency of the cooling pad.

Another method of evaporative cooling is using misters or high-pressure fog systems, which are more suited to larger growing environments where uniform cooling of a wider area is required. Fog or mist systems use high-pressure nozzles to form fine water droplets, which absorb heat from the environment as they vaporise. Fog contains drop-lets of 0.05 to 50 microns, and mist contains larger drop-lets of 50 to 100 microns. Fog is a better option for most situations because it tends to fully evaporate before any droplets can fall on the plants and wet the foliage surface. Wet plant surfaces encourage the development of many fungal and bacterial pathogens, and so should be avoided with any evaporative cooling system in use. That combined with the fact that humidity levels increase with evaporative cooling and plant transpiration is why (like with fan and pad systems) it is vital to have sufficient air ventilation and movement to circulate the cooled air and draw it out.

While evaporative cooling can be useful to cool the air temperature, it can also be combined with another tech-nique that focuses on the root zone when the heat outside is really sweltering. Root zone chilling with a hydroponic nutrient solution is a technique used by many commercial growers in warm or tropical climates, and most often with cool-season crops like butterhead lettuce, herbs and other vegetables. Chilling the nutrient solution down to as low as 15 to 18°C allows the cool-season vegetables to crop well at ambient air temperatures that are often well above optimal for these crops (27 to 37°C). Without nutrient chilling, the root zone usually warms to the level of the air and this gives numerous growth problems, including slow growth, lack of heart formation, bolting, tip burn and low marketable yields. Other researchers have reported that nutrient chill-ing of lettuce also reduces the occurrence of the fungal root disease Pythium aphanidermatum. However, trials have also shown that root zone cooling must be applied soon after early crop establishment and maintained for the life of the crop for maximum effect.The first line of defense for any grower battling climatic

extremes is to know the environment, both inside and out. While the indoor garden can seem insulated from the outside world, ambient temperatures will play a role in the requirement for cooling, while factors such as humidity often determine which methods of temperature control are best suited in each situation. Letting a crop cook and fry under extreme heat is stressful for both grower and plants, so planning for that mid-summer heat is well worth the time and effort.

“ root ZonE CHILLIng wItH a HyDroponIC nutrIEnt soLutIon Is a tECHnIquE usED by Many CoMMErCIaL growErs In warM or tropICaL CLIMatEs.”


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It always feels like you’re standing on the brink of a new adventure when you consider bringing a new companion into your home—even if that new friend is a windowsill plant! Here’s a crash course on how to grow on the edge.

GrowInG on tHe edGe:

by Karen wilkinson

Windowsill Gardening

Other than bringing a baby into this world, or adopting a puppy or kitten, there’s no better way to bring new life into your home than by adding some greenery. Not to say that babies and four-legged friends don’t offer the same fulfillment as growing your own garden, but plants are much easier to keep happy, and they don’t wake you up in the middle of the night or chew your favourite shoes! They just sit there in search of light, air and moisture, and they look cute while doing it. Windowsill gardening is a great way to bring colour and

texture to a room. Even the apartment-dweller can find the space to beautify. All it takes is a well-lit windowsill, some

pots, plants and a good attitude—the rest just kind of takes care of itself. Plus, windowsill gardens serve multiple pur-poses in that they literally breathe air into the space. And, you’re in for a treat if your plants are the food-bearing kind, especially during those months when outdoor growing might not be happening. However, during the summer, windowsill gardening can get

somewhat tricky, as temperatures soar and the sun’s powerful rays beat down and threaten such life. Below are a few tips to starting and maintaining a windowsill garden while keeping your plants burn-free.


oneChoose the sunniest, best windowsill in your house. Make sure trees and buildings don’t block the sun’s light and that the area receives at least six hours of direct sunlight a day. If needed, add artificial lighting. A white or light-coloured room will prove useful as well; light colours reflect the light, while dark interior surfaces absorb light. Finally, try to avoid windowsills near heating vents or cooking appliances, which will upset the natural humidity in the air.

twoChoose the proper container. If starting with plants, get a container that is at least 15 to 30-cm deep. Herbs can grow in a wide or long container. If you’ve got more than one crop per container, make sure there’s enough breathing (and root system) room so they don’t have to compete for light, water and nutrients. Then, you can get all artsy and make decora-tive arrangements by combining different crops together, like tomato and leaf lettuce. But, again, just be sure the container allows plenty of room for the different roots to grow.

tHreeChoose a quick-maturing plant for vegetables. Indoor veg-etable gardening has nearly all the same requirements as an outdoor garden—bright light, water and protection from pests and diseases—but there is dramatically less space. So, growing quick-maturing crops planted in quick succession is ideal. Also, try growing indoor crops close to their natural outdoor growing season.

fourWater plants as needed using room temperature water. Use the trusted “stick your finger in it” method. That is, stick your finger in the soil and if it’s dry, give it some water; if it is damp or wet, let it be. Too much water can lead to fungus. Water your indoor plants in the morning on sunny days ideally, as evaporation slows on cloudy, cool days.

fIveSquirt plants as required. To counter the dry air, espe-cially in the summer or in heated homes during, mist around the plants frequently. Dryness can lead to brown tips and spider mites.

sIxRotate those containers. Give your plants a quarter turn each week to expose all sides to the sun, so as to ensure they grow evenly.

sevenRinse them off. Vegetable crops are susceptible to aphids, mites and whiteflies, so give indoor plants a strong rinse every two weeks or so. You can take the plant outside to spray, or do it beneath the kitchen faucet. Just be sure to check the undersides of leaves to verify any bugs have been washed away.



http://www.stealth-garden.com


http://www.lights-interaction.com

NoshingCO2

by Peter Vakomies

Plants have no teeth…or do they?


The RuBisCO enzyme does not restrict its

diet to CO2 alone; it will also chew on oxygen

molecules, which slows photosynthetic yields.”

The enzyme known as Ribulose Bisphosphate Carboxylase, or RuBisCO, might be the closest thing plants have to teeth. This enzyme grabs CO2 gas molecules and attaches them to a five-carbon sugar molecule, thereby assimilating more carbon atoms into the Calvin Cycle. It fixes a molecule of CO2 to another five-carbon sugar (ribulose), making a new six-carbon sugar every time it cycles through its enzymatic function. Considering the super low CO2 concentration of 0.0035% present on Earth today, RuBisCO has essentially chewed most of the carbon out of the atmosphere and fixed it into plants.By grabbing a single CO2 molecule out of the

air every 0.3 seconds, every RuBisCO enzyme is at the heart of the photosynthesis machinery. This is a chewing rate of around three molecules of CO2 per second, which is quite slow compared to most other enzymes. Because of its abundance and essential role in life, the RuBisCO enzyme also hap-pens to be the most abundant protein on Earth.



If you could extract the whole biosphere’s protein to make a giant Earth-smoothie-protein-shake, RuBisCO alone would make up more than 50% of the total protein.RuBisCO is a large, complex molecule,

which in more advanced plants is built from 16 separate sub-units forming an amazingly complex protein structure. It is located in the chlorophyll-containing organelles (chloroplasts) found inside every green plant and algae cell. RuBisCO is a miracle of nature that has been evolving since life began—a true protein nano-machine that drives all life on Earth.The RuBisCO enzyme does not restrict its

diet to CO2 alone; it will also chew on oxygen molecules, which slows photosynthetic yields. There are eight locations for CO2 to bind to in each RuBisCO enzyme, and these are also able to bind oxygen molecules. For this reason, RuBisCO is located in an oxygen-reduced environment inside plant cells and tucked away inside chloroplasts. Chloroplasts contain dense accumulations of the large enzyme in patches; in some algae there are super complexes of RuBisCO accumulated into structures called pyrenoids. Discoveries with unicellular algae have shown just how localised the teeth can be; in efforts to con-centrate CO2 around RuBisCO, when CO2 becomes depleted, some algal plants will make RuBisCO only on one side of the chlo-roplast, meaning only one half has teeth and can actually grab CO2, while the other half actually has no teeth and acts as a reservoir of Calvin Cycle intermediates, shunting the required substrates to the side with teeth.

Because of its abundance and

essential role in life, the RuBisCO enzyme also happens to be the most abundant protein on earth.”

This is a mechanism to compensate for depleted CO2 when O2 becomes a compet-ing substrate, unique to some algae.But back in the greenhouse, imagine

starving a crop of CO2. Carbon dioxide in a well-sealed greenhouse or growroom will be assimilated starting the moment after dawn when light becomes bright enough. From a typical concentration of 350 ppm CO2 in the air, the concentration can drop to 160 ppm in under two hours. This will stop plant growth by starving their cells’ RuBisCO enzymes of their favourite thing to chew on. At this point oxygen can even out-compete the reduced levels of CO2 and cause photo-respiration, a wasteful use of captured light energy, sending the plant’s teeth to chatter and chew on junk food.


NOShING CO2

There is an overwhelming array of nutrients and additives available on today’s hydroponic market. Many gardeners choose a particular brand of nutrients and stay loyal to that brand, while some people mix and match, making a fertiliser cocktail. Determining the best combination of nutrients can be a long process involving countless experi-ments. Plants, like people, don’t all thrive on exactly the same diet so it’s important to find your particular crop’s preferred mix. Although each crop is unique, there are certain steps every gardener can take when trying to build the ultimate fertiliser regimen.

Base FormulasStart with a quality base fertiliser. A good base formula is exactly what its name implies—a foundation for your entire fertiliser regimen. Base formulas consist of the nutrients plants need for basic survival and general health. Most base nutrients are split into grow and bloom formulations, with their nutrient ratios specific to that particular stage of growth. There is a wide variety of base nutrients available in one-, two- or three-part formulas, all of which contain the essential building blocks for plant nutrition. Quality base fertilisers will

What should you be feeding your plants? Figuring out their perfect diet is a matter of trial and error and careful observation.

EffectiveFertiliser Regimen

Building an

by Eric Hopper


contain a substantial amount of NPK (nitrogen, phos-phorus and potassium) along with a variety of micronu-trients. A base fertiliser with multiple sources of each particular element is a good choice. This diversity allows the plant to choose the source from which the nutrients are taken. In other words, a base formula containing both calcium nitrate and potassium nitrate is a better choice than one that contains only potassium nitrate. Along the same lines, an organic base fertiliser contain-ing bat guano, worm castings and kelp would be a better choice than one that contains only bat guano.

“PlANTS, lIkE PEOPlE, DON’T All ThRIVE ON EXACTlY ThE

SAME DIET SO IT’S IMPORTANT TO FIND YOUR PARTICUlAR CROP’S PREFERRED MIX.”


http://www.growright.com.au

Calcium is a vital nutrient for plant health and a tricky aspect of the base formula. Most base fertilisers contain only a small amount of calcium because it is assumed that the gardener’s water supply will contain it. If your water supply has little calcium, though, or if you are using reverse osmo-sis water, adding a calcium supplement might be necessary. Although calcium supplements at hydroponics stores are sold separately from the actual base fertilisers, calcium is so integral to basic plant functions that it should be considered part of your base formula.

Vegetative AdditivesOnce you are satisfied with your base formula you can start to add amendments specific to the stage of growth or a par-ticular purpose. Some crops like lettuce only have a vegeta-tive stage and therefore the focus on amendments should be for this stage only. Additives containing growth hormones like kelp can accelerate growth throughout the vegetative period and enhance the plant’s overall health. Other addi-tives for the vegetative period are root enhancers. There are a variety of enzyme formulas and beneficial micro-organisms that promote root growth. Root enhancers will help build root mass, thus increasing nutrient uptake and overall performance. If you are growing a crop that has a fruiting/flowering stage you can also increase yields by increasing the root mass in the vegetative stage. Plants with large, healthy

roots perform better and are more resistant to potential problems as well.A recent advancement in plant stimulators is the use

of protein hydrolysate. Protein hydrolysate is a mix-ture of amino acids prepared by splitting a protein with an enzyme. In the case of plant additives we use the hydrolysis process to produce L-amino acids, the type of amino acids used by plants. Amino acids are the basic building blocks for the proteins and enzymes required for the structural integrity and metabolic functions of plants. By supplementing L-amino acids directly to our plants we can boost their metabolisms, resulting in faster growth and stronger resistance to pathogens. Protein hydrolysate can be used throughout the plant’s entire life, making it a great vegeta-tive and blooming additive.

Blooming AdditivesThere is a multitude of fertiliser amendments for crops that have a fruiting/flowering stage. Most bloom-ing additives can be divided into three categories: initia-tors, mid-blooming and ripening formulas. Blooming initiators are products specifically designed to help the onset of fruit or flower sets—as a plant transitions into a

“ROOT ENhANCERS WIll hElP BUIlD ROOT MASS, ThUS

INCREASING NUTRIENT UPTAkE AND OVERAll PERFORMANCE.”

EFFECTIVE FERTIlISER REGIMEN


blooming period it produces specific hormones for fruit or flower production and most blooming initiators target these particular hormones.Mid-blooming additives are products designed to be used

through the stage of actual fruit and flower production. These products are meant to either boost or enhance hor-monal production or to supply a higher amount of the nutri-

ents commonly used during that particular stage. For

most fruiting or flower-ing plants an increase of

phosphorus and potas-sium will heighten hormonal response,

creating larger yields. In my opinion, the best mid-blooming enhancers contain slightly more potas-sium than phosphorus and are best used from the

time when fruit or flowers first appear until two or three weeks before harvest.Ripening additives are specific to the last two or three

weeks before harvest. Like the mid-bloom enhancers, many of these products contain significant amounts of phosphorus and potassium. Some ripening additives target specific hormones created during the plant’s final

weeks of life. The ripening stage is one of the easiest stages to identify because most plants exhibit significant visual changes during ripening. Many fruits and vegetables physi-cally change colour during ripening, a result of hormonal responses in the plant triggered by nutrient composition

or environmental factors. If you choose to add a ripening additive to your nutrient regimen, make sure to add it at the first sign of colour change. If a highly concentrated ripening additive is used too late it could build up in the medium and make pre-harvest flushing difficult.

Specialty AdditivesThere are many specialty additives that can be used in con-junction with base nutrients, vegetative additives and bloom-ing additives. Carbohydrates, enzyme formulas, amino acids, humic/fulvic acid, microbes and vitamins are sometimes found in base formulas but can also be added individually to maximise performance.Almost all the fertilisers and amendments found at your

local hydroponics store are compatible with one another. Experiment with different ratios until you achieve the results you desire. And don’t be afraid to mix and match different fertiliser manufacturers. The best results in my garden have rarely come from using a single brand of nutrients.Experimentation and observation are crucial in determin-

ing your garden’s ultimate fertiliser regimen. Don’t make a lot of big changes all at once. Instead make small changes on every crop rotation so you can effectively monitor the results. Record the amount of every fertiliser and additive you use and also any changes you notice in the garden’s overall performance. There is nothing worse than harvest-ing an epic crop only to realise you have no idea what you were feeding your plants.

“MOST BlOOMING ADDITIVES CAN BE DIVIDED INTO ThREE CATEGORIES:

INITIATORS, MID-BlOOMING AND RIPENING FORMUlAS.”


TALKing sHOPTALKing sHOP

Donny Pascal, owner of Everything Hydro Mega Store, started off as a wholesaler in the hydroponic industry before delving into the retail side of things with the opening of his shop in September 2012. He tells Maximum Yield all about his nutrient line and why patience is an important virtue in the indoor growing industry.

Before opening Everything Hydro Mega Store, Donny Pascal, owner and sales manager, worked in the wholesale side of the hydroponic industry, promoting his nutrient additive product line-up called DNA Growth. Donny ran the hydroponic wholesale business from the rear shed of his house, but as more and more shops began to take interest in the nutri-ent additive range, he moved into a small, leased building in Paralowie, and began to manufacture DNA Growth products on a larger scale. It was about August 2012 when the decision to be a wholesaler and retail opera-tor was made and Donny began to look for a new location. “After our lease expired at Paralowie in September 2012, a decision was made to move to our current location [in Blair Athol] and open up a hydroponics store for the public, whilst still being able to cater and run my wholesale business,” remembers Donny.In the first few months, Donny questioned his decision to open the retail

store because the small amount of customers coming in at first made the days go by slowly. But he quickly reminded himself that a business cannot be built in a few months, and the company philosophy was slow and steady.

Company: Everything hydro Mega Store

Owner: Donny Pascal

Location: Shop 2 / 494 Main North Road, Blair Athol, SA 5084

Phone: (08) 8260 3335

Web: everythinghydro.com

E-mail: [email protected]

Motto: “Choose and use a DNA Growth product today and become a believer”

At A GLAnCE

Donny (left) and Lee inside Everything Hydro in South Australia.


TALKing sHOP

He and his wife Grace were the only employees at first—Donny handled customer service and sales and Grace handled all of the bookkeeping. To gain market share and recognition, they relied on customers to advertise by word of mouth, chose a shop location with good exposure that also provided clients with private rear parking options and contacted Maximum Yield for some further exposure.Selling products that are unique and only available at

Everything Hydro, such as Organiks Plus +1 is what makes the business stand apart from others, says Donny.Plus +1 is a weight-gain additive used externally on any types

of fruits and flowers and will add 10 to 20% extra yield weight guaranteed. Plus +1 is safe and can be used with any current growth nutrient formula. This product was developed by cousin Lyoto, a biochemist, who completed his studies at the University of South Australia and graduated with Merit Honours. Lyoto is currently employed with SA Water as a senior water chemist.The store’s current product range includes fans ranging from

un-muffled, muffled axle, mix flow and centrifugal; portable air-conditioner evaporator units; automatic fire protection devices; a large range of propagation kits; various types of grow-ing substrates; pumps; water heaters; reflective material; a broad range of nutrients and plant additives; pots and growing tents; fungicide and insecticides; and body detoxing kits. “Currently our client base is all in South Australia, but hopefully this will change when we have our website completed,” says Donny. On the wholesale side of the business, Donny is advertising DNA Growth products in each issue of Maximum Yield Australia. The DNA Growth line includes Grrrow, Vita-Boost, Sanitizer, Bio-Zyme, Fulganic, Pound-Ash, Black Magic, Sex Changer PT1 and 2, Firm, Weight Gain, Ripen, Rhizoroids, Juicy and Bulk.Everything Hydro has now added another employee, Lee, on

the sales and customer service end of things, boosting staff up to three. “Lee is new to the hydroponic industry, which has been beneficial to us as we were able to train him and allow him to be open and ambitious about ideas and decisions,” shares Donny.Besides having an exclusive product range, Donny counts his

own unique skills as a fully licensed and qualified electrician among the strengths of the business. Donny is able to answer the most complicated electrical questions his customers throw

“ OUR hYDROPONICS ShOP IS ONE OF SOUTh AUSTRAlIA’S lARGEST ShOPS, AllOWING US TO CARRY A WIDER RANGE OF PRODUCTS.”

Donny shows off a rack of DNA Vita-Boost.

at him and wires all fan speed controllers, thermostats and timers in-house. “Everything Hydro has only been in business for a little over a year, so I believe the shop potential has yet to be achieved,” Donny reflects. “Our hydroponics shop is one of South Australia’s largest shops, allowing us to carry a wider range of products to cater to a broad market.”So far, Donny has learned that understanding market

demands in the hydroponics industry can be difficult and that doing things slowly and steadily is the way to build a success-ful business. He hopes to one day become one of the busiest hydroponics stores in South Australia and distribute DNA Growth products internationally.For more information about Everything Hydro, call

(08) 8260 3335 or visit everythinghydro.com



MAXiMUM YiElDdistributors retail Stores listed alphabetically by city in each state.

AUSTRALIA

ACTSouth Pacific Hydroponics #2 - 84 - 86 Wollongong St., Fyshwick ACT 2609(02) 6239 2598

South Pacific Hydroponics 70 Oatley Court, Belconnen ACT 2617(02) 6251 0600

NEW SOUTH WALESABC Aquaculture 54 Wahroonga Road, Kanwal NSW 2259(61) 2 4393 3131

ASE HydroponicsFactory 10/45 Leighton Pl., Hornsby NSW 2077 (02) 9477 3710

Ballina Hydro 3 Ray O’Niell Crescent, Ballina NSW 2478(02) 6686 7321

Brunswick Hydro & Aquarium Supplies 19 Booyun Street, Brunswick Heads NSW 2483 (02) 6685 1552

Criscete Hydroponics and Organics Unit 2/15 Kam Close, Morisset, NSW 2264(02) 4973 5779

Dubbo Hydro & Tobacconist 42c Victoria Street, Dubbo West NSW 2830(02) 6885 1616

Ezi Grow Hydro 177 Mt Druit Road, Mt Druitt NSW 2770(02) 9832 1610

Ezi Grow Hydro 1B/340 Windsor Street, Richmond NSW 2753 (02) 4588 5826

Ezi Grow Hydro 56 Fish Parade, Bathurst NSW 2795(02) 9832 1610

Ezi Grow Hydro - Head Office 18 Part Street, Eglinton NSW 2795(02) 6337 1485

Favgro Hydroponics Growers 107 Glenella Road, Batehaven NSW 2536(02) 4472 7165

Felanza - Hydroponics140 Princess Highway, Arncliffe, NSW 2205(02) 9556 1494

General Hydroponics 7/14 Sunnyholt Rd., Blacktown NSW 9676(02) 9676 8682

Grow Australia Factory 1/5 Sefton Road, Thronleigh NSW 2120 (02) 9473 5000

Grow Your Own Unit 6/34 Alliance Ave, Morisset NSW 2264(02) 4973 5179

Happy Grow Hydro 15/The Crescent Street, Penrith NSW 2750(02) 4732 2870

Home Harvest 423 Princess Highway, Rockdale NSW 2216(02) 9567 8841

Hyalite Moorebank 6/376 Newsbridge Road, Moorebank NSW 2170 (02) 9824 3400

Hyalite Villawood 2/21 Birmingham Avenue, Villawood NSW 2163 (02) 9723 7199

Hydro Masta 100 Station Road, Seven Hills, Sydney NSW 2147 (02) 8812 2845

Hydro Masta Pty Ltd 76 Beecroft Road, Epping NSW 2121(02) 9869 3011

Hydro Net 2/14 Aific Street, Long Jetty NSW 2261(02) 4334 6955

Hydro Place 1/68 Nelson Street, Wallsend NSW 2287(02) 4965 6595

Hydro Shop and Reptile Supplies 2/390 The Esplanade, Warners Bay NSW 2282 (02) 4958 1489

Hydro Shop Pty Ltd Unit 1/5-7 Channel Road, Mayfield West NSW 2304 (02) 4960 0707

Hydro Supplies 57 Flinders Street, Darlinghurst NSW 2010 (02) 9326 0307

Hydro Wise B/385 The Entrance Road, Long Jetty NSW 2261 (02) 4333 5700

Hydroponics Grow All Year 14 Fitzmaurice Street, Wagga Wagga NSW 2650 (02) 6921 5911

Hygrow Horticulture (Greenlite) 252 Oxford Street, Bondi Junction NSW 2022 (02) 9369 3928

Indoor Sun Shop 745 Victoria Road, Top Ryde NSW 2112 (02) 9808 6511

Indoor Sun Shop Unit 2/109 Junction Road, Moorebank NSW 2170 (02) 9822 4700

International Fans PO Box 120, St. Mary’s NSW 2760 (02) 9833 7500

Kyper’s Tools and Hydroponics Stuart & Tincogan Sts, Mullumbimby NSW 2482 (02) 6684 4928

Lismore Hydro 1/106 Canway Street, Lismore NSW 2480 (02) 6621 3311

Lismore Hydroponics rear of 28 Casino St., South Lismore, NSW 2480 (02) 6621 3311

Northern Lights Hydroponics6/46 Through StreetSouth Grafton NSW [email protected]

Northern Nursery Supplies Pty Ltd 14-16 Nance Road, Kempsey NSW 2440 (02) 6563 1599

Nowra Hydro 68 Bridge Road, Nowra NSW 2541 (02) 4423 3224

Nutriflo Hydroponic Systems 19/5 Daintree Place, Gosford West NSW 2250 (02) 4323 1599

Parkview Plants 250 Princess Highway, Nowra South NSW 2541 (02) 4423 0599

Port Pumps and Irrigation 20 Uralla Road, Pt Macquarie NSW 2444 (02) 6581 1272

Quik Grow 510a Great Western Hwy., Pendle Hill NSW 2145 (02) 9636 7023

Quick Grow 823 King Georges Road, S. Hurstville NSW 2221 (02) 9546 8642

Quik Grow Pty Ltd 490 Parramatta Road, Petersham NSW 2049 (02) 9568 2900

Simple Grow Hassall Street & Windem, Wetherill Pk NSW 2164 (02) 9604 0469

The Grow Shop 5/5 Forge Drive, Coff’s Harbour, NSW 2450(02) 6651 9992

Tweed Coast Hydroponics 2/58 Machinery Dr., Tweeds Head South NSW 2486 (07) 5524 8588

Uncle Wal’s Gardenland 31 Crescent Avenue, Taree NSW 2430 (02) 6550 0221

Home Grown Aquaponics 13/8a-8b Hartley Drive, Thornton NSW 2322 (02) 4028 6388

Westside Lighting & Electrical (Ezi Range) PO Box 274, Mascot NSW 1400 1 800 661 475

Wollongong Hydroponic Center 318 Crown Street, Wollongong NSW 2500 (02) 4225 8773

NORTHERN TERRITORYKatherine Hydroponics Centre 17 Rundle Street, Katherine NT 0850 (08) 8972 1730

QUEENSLANDA Happy Medium Hydroponics Unit2/10 Central Court, Browns Plains QLD 4118 (07) 3809 3322

Allgrow Hydro 13 - 58 Bullock Head St., Sumner Park QLD 4074 (07) 3376 7222

Aquatic Oasis Unit 2/33 Smith Street, Capalaba QLD 4157 (07) 3245 7777

Billabong Hydroponics Lot 1, Billabong Court, Childers QLD 4660 (07) 4126 3551

D-Bay Hydroponics Shop 5/404 Deception Bay Road, Deception Bay QLD 4508 (07) 3204 8324

E.T. Grow Home Unit 1/4 Windmill Street, Southport QLD 4215 (07) 5591 6501

Eye Lighting Australia Pty LtdPO Box 306, Carole Park QLD 4300 (07) 3335 3556

Green Power Hydroponics 2/26 Strathvale Court, Caboolture QLD 4510 (07) 5428 1133

Grow Hydro 22 Mining Street, Bundamba QLD 4304 (07) 3816 3206

H2 Gro Pty Ltd 2 Sonia Crt., Raceview QLD 4305 (07) 3294 3253

Hyalite Varsity 5/11 John Duncan Crt., Varsity Lakes QLD 4227 (07) 5593 7385

Hydroponic Roots & Shoots Lot 3 Herberton Road, Atherton QLD 4883 (07) 4091 3217

Hydroponics & Garden Supplies 93 Cook St., Portsmith QLD 4870 (07) 4035 5422

Hydroponics Today PO Box 785, Stanthorpe QLD 4380 (07) 4683 3133

Indoor Solutions Unit 2 / 79 Oxford Tce., Taringa QLD 4068

J&K Hydroponics 387 Progress RdWacol QLD 4076(07) 3271 6210

KY Garden 3/31 Argyle PDE, Darra Brisbane QLD 4076 (07) 3375 9098

Nerang Hydroponic Centre 27 Lawrence Drive, Nerang QLD 4211 (07) 5527 4155

North Queensland Hydro Supplies Shop 2B/20-22 Fleming St., Townsville QLD 4810 (07) 4728 3957

Northern Hydroponics383 Mulgrave Road, Cairns QLD 4870 (07) 4054 5884

Pioneer Hydroponics 194 Doyles Road,Pleystowe QLD 4741 (07) 4959 2016

SA Hydroponics Shed 3, 1191 Anzac Avenue, Kallangar QLD 4503 (07) 3285 1355

Simply Hydroponics Gold Coast 42 Lawrence Drive, Nerang QLD 4211 (07) 5596 2250

Slacks Creek Hydroponics#13/22 Allgas St.Slacks Creek QLD 4217(07) 3299 1397

Sunstate Hydroponics10/13 Kerryl Street,Kunda Park QLD 4556 (07) 5445 3499

The Hydroponic Warehouse Shop 3/73 PIckering Street, Enoggera QLD 4051 (07) 3354 1588

Tumbling Waters Hydroponics2 Clarkes Track, Malanda QLD 4885 (07) 4096 6443

Walsh’s Seeds Garden Centre 881 Ruthven Street, Toowoomba QLD 4350 (07) 4636 1077

SOUTH AUSTRALIA------------------------------------------

Advanced Garden Supplies3/8 Bredbo St

Lonsdale S.A. 5160(08) 8382 1191

------------------------------------------

Amazon Aquariums & Gardening Unit 5, 16 Research Road, Pooraka SA 5095 (08) 8359 1800

Ascot Park 753 Marion Road, Ascot Park SA 5043 (08) 8357 4700

Barry’s Hardware Saints & Main North Rd., Salisbury Plains SA 5109 (08) 8281 4066

Bolzon Home & Garden 103 Tolley Road, St Agnes SA 5097 (08) 8265 0665

Chocablock Discount Variety Store 15-17/1220 Grand Junction, Hope Valley SA 5090 (08) 8396 3133

Complete Hydroponics 1581 Main North Road Salisbury East SA 5109 (08) 8258 4022

Country Hydro 434 Saddleback Road, Whyalla SA 5600 (08) 8645 3105

D & W Dependable Hardware 45B Kettering Road, Elizabeth South SA 5112 (08) 8287 6399

Festive Hydro 2 Kreig Street, Evanston Park SA 5116 (08) 8523 5100

Fulham Gardener Nursery 597 Tapleys Hill Road, Fulham SA 5024 (08) 8235 2004

Futchatec Distribution 4 Symonds St. Royal Park, 5014 (08) 8447-1122

Glandore Hydroponics 644 - 646 South Road, Glandore SA 5037 (08) 8371 5777

Greener than Green 52 - 54 Cliff Avenue, Port Noar-lunga South SA 51 (08) 8386 2596

Greenhouse Superstore Lonsdale 35 to 37 Aldenhoven Road SA 5160 (08) 8382 0100

Greenhouse Superstore Royal Park 4 Symonds St. Royal Park SA 5014 (08) 8447 5899

Ground-Up Service Nursery 3 Copinger Road, Pt. Pirie SA 5540 (08) 8264 9455

Harvest Time Hydroponics Shop 3/146-148, Findon Road, Findon SA 5023 (08) 8244 0222

Hindmarsh Hydroponics 39a Manton Street, Hindmarsh SA 5095 (08) 8346 9461

Highland Grow & Flow 14/1042 Grand Junction Road, Holden Hill SA 5088 (08) 8395 4455

Hong Kong Hydro 13 Research Road, Pooraka SA 5095 (08) 8260 2000

Hydro Heaven Kane Motors-Hunt Road, Mount Barker SA 5251 (08) 8391 1880

Hydro Sales & Service 1 Salisbury Crescent, Colonel Light SA 5041 (08) 8272 2000

Hydro Technics 321 South Road, Croydon SA 5008 (08) 8241 5022

Hydro Warehouse 181 Seacombe Road, South Brighton SA 5048 (08) 8377 1200

Hydro World 40 Folland Avenue, Northfield SA 5085 (08) 8262 8323

Koko’s Hydro Warehouse Unit 2/2 McGowan Street, Pooraka SA 5095 (08) 8260 5463

Larg’s Bay Garden Supply 239 Victoria Road, Largs Bay SA 5016 (08) 8242 3788

Martins Road Hydro # 5- 353 Martins Road, Parafield Gardens SA 5107 (08) 8283 4011

Mitre 10 Drive In 152 Hanson Road, Mansfield Park SA 5012 (08) 8445 1813

New Age Hydroponics 135-137 Sir Donald Bradman Dr., Hilton SA 5033 (08) 8351 9100

Owen Agencies 17-19 Railway Terrace, Owen SA 5460 (08) 8528 6008

Professional Hydro 4/522 Grange Road, Fulham Gardens SA 5024 (08) 8353 0133

Professional Hydro Shop 5/645 Lower North East Road SA 5075 (08) 8365 5172

Professional Hydroponics113 Maurice Road, Murray Bridge SA (08) 8532 3441

Seaton Hydroponics129 Tapleys Hill Road Seaton SA 5023 (08) 82682636

Soladome Aquaculture & Hydro 44 Chapel St., Norwood SA 5067 (08) 8362 8042

South Coast Hydroponics 6/25 Gulfview Road, Christies Beach SA 5165 (08) 8384 2380

State Hydroponics 174 Semaphore Road, Exeter SA 5019 (08) 8341 5991


Tea Tree Gully Hydro 32 Famechon Cresent, Modbury North SA 5092 (08) 8264 9455

Two Wells Hardware 86 Old Port Wakefield Road, Two Wells SA 5501 (08) 8520 2287

Urban Grow Solutions1/111 Main Sth Rd, O’Halloran Hill, S.A 5189 (08) 8322 0040

West Garden Centre Peachey Road, Elizabeth West SA 5113 (08) 8255 1355

TASMANIAAdvanced Hydroponics 26 Mulgrave Street, South Launceston Tas 7249 (03) 6344 5588

Aqua HydroponicsRear 45 Burnett St.New Norfolk Tas 7140(03) 6294 9233

Ezy Grow 625 East Derwent Highway, Lindisfarne Tas 7015 (03) 6243 9490

Garden World 717 West Tamar Highway, Legana Tas 7277 (03) 6330 1177

------------------------------------------

Green Acres Hydroponics 46-48 Bingalong Road, Mornington, TAS 7018

(03) 6245 1066sales@greenacreshydroponics.com.au------------------------------------------

Growers Choice 225 Main Road, Derwent Park Tas 7009 (03) 6273 6088

Hydroponics Systems131 Main Rd, Moonah, TAS 7009 (03) 6278 3457

Hydroponic World 322 Bass Highway, Sulphur Creek Tas 7316 (03) 6435 4411

Organic Garden Supplies 17 Don Road, Devonport Tas 7310 (03) 6424 7815

Tas Hydroponic Supplies 99 Lampton Avenue, Derwent Park Tas 7009 (03) 6272 2202

The Hydroponic Company 69 Charles Street, Moonah Tas 7009 (03) 6273 1411

The Hydroponics Company 289 Hobart Road, Kings Medow Tas 7428 (03) 6340 2222

VICTORIAAAA Lush Hydroponics 2-4 The Arcade, Junction Village, Melbourne Vic 3972

Albury Hydroponics/ Cappers Hydroponics 62 Thomas Mitchell Drive, Springvale Vic 3171 61 (02) 6024 4029

All Seasons Hydroponics 3 Springvale Road, Springvale Vic 3171 (03) 9540 8000

Banksia Greenhouse and Outdoor Garden 530 Burwood Highway, Wantirna Vic 3152 (03) 9801 8070

Barb’s Hydro and Nursery 15 Wallace Avenue, Interverloch Vic 3196 (03) 5674 2584

Bayside Hydroponics 5/9 Rutherford RoadSeaford, VIC 3198(03) 9775 0495

Belgrave Hydroponics 5/ 60-68 Colby Drive, Belgrave Heights Vic 3160 (03) 9754 3712

Brew ‘N’ Grow 4 - 479 Nepean Highway, Edithvale Vic 3199 (03) 9783 3006

Casey Hydro 12 The Arcade Street, Cranbourne Vic 3977 (03) 5996 3697

Casey Hydro 78 Spring Square, Hallam Vic 3803 (03) 9796 3776

Chronic Hydroponics 31 Anderson Street, Templestowe Vic 3106 (03) 9646 8133

Complete Garden Supplies 580 Ballarat Road, Sunshine Vic 3020 (03) 9311 9776

Discount Hydroponics 18 Princes Hwy.Doveton VIC 3177(03) 9792 2966

Echuca Hydroponic Nursery & Supplies 23 Ogilvie Avenue, Echuca Vic 3564 (03) 5480 2036

Echuca Pump Shop 128 Ogilvie Avenue, Echuca Vic 3564 (03) 5480 7080

Excel Distributors Pty Ltd 2/41 Quinn Street, Preston Vic 3072 (03) 9495 0083

F.L.O.W. Plants and Environments 66B Chapel Street, Windsor Vic 3181 (03) 9510 6832

Gardensmart 810-834 Springvale Road, Keysborough Vic 3173 (03) 9769 1411

Global Hydroponics 10 Knight Avenue, Sunshine Vic 3020 (03) 9356 9400

Greenleaf Hydroponics 9a Church Street, Traralgon Vic 3844 (03) 5176 0898

Greenleaf Hydroponics Factory 7, Industrial Park Drive, Lilydale Vic 3140 (03) 9739 7311

GreenLite - Ringwood 291 Maroondah Highway, Ringwood Vic 3134 (03) 9870 8566

Grow 4 XS Rear 24 Simms Road, Greensborough Vic 3088 (03) 9435 6425------------------------------------------

Growlush Australia830-850 Princes Highway,

Springvale, Vic, 3171(03) 9546 9688

www.growlush.com ------------------------------------------

Holland Forge Pty Ltd. 5 Hi-tech Place, Rowville Vic 3178 (03) 9764 1372

------------------------------------------

Hydroware1/54 Lara Way,

Campbellfield, Vic, 3061(03) 9357 8805

------------------------------------------

Hyalite Airport West Unit 4/504-506 Fullarton Road, Airport West 3042 (03) 9331 5452

Hyalite Bayswater 4/19 Jersey Road, Bayswater Vic 3153 (03) 9720 1946

Hyalite Global 10 Knight Avenue, Sunshine North Vic 3020 (03) 9356 9400

Hyalite Westend 3 Third Avenue, Sunshine Vic 3020 (03) 9311 3510

Hydroponic Central110 Dynon RoadWest Melbourne Vic. 3003(03) 9376 0447

Indoor Garden Company29 Glasgow Street, Collingwood Vic 3066 (03) 9416 1699

Impact Distribution PO Box 2188, Salisbury Downs 5108 (08) 8250-1515

JB Lighting 492 - 500 Neerim Road, Murrumbeena Vic 3163 (03) 9569 4399

Just Hydroponics Deer Park Unit 11 29-39 Westwood Drive, Deer Park, VIC 3023 (03) 8390 0861

Just Hydroponics Hoppers Crossing 3/8 Motto CourtHoppers Crossing, 3029 (03) 8742 2830

Latrove Valley Home Brew Supplies PO Box 802, Morwell Vic 3804 (03) 5133 9140

Living Jungle 345 Sommerville Road, Footscray West Vic 3012 (03) 9314 0055

Melton Hydroponic Supplies 18/10 Norton Drive, Melton Vic 3194 (03) 9746 9256

Midtown Hydroponics Factory 1, 821B Howitt St., Wendouree Vic 3355 (03) 5339 1300

One Stop Sprinklers 1 Burwood Highway, Wantirna Vic 3152 (03) 9800 2177

Pam’s Home Brew & Hydroponics 61 McArthur Street, Sale Vic 3850 (03) 5143 1143

Palms & Plants 175 Salisbury Highway, Salisbury S.A. 5108 (08) 8285 7575

Prestige Hydroponics Pty. Ltd. S 2.10 Level 2, 343 Little Collins St. Melbourne VIC Australia 3000 (61) 4187 81083

Shepparton Hydroponics 87A Archer Street, Shepparton Vic 3630 (03) 5831 6433

Simply Hydroponics 5/ 411-413 Old Geelong Rd., Hoppers Cros. 3029 (03) 9360 9344

Simply Hydroponics Epping 10 Dilop Drive, Epping Vic 3076 (03) 9408 4677

Sunlite Hydroponics 1/104 Shannon Avenue, Geelong West Vic 3281 (03) 5222 6730

Simply Hydroponics - PakenhamFactory 6/3-11 Bate Close Paken-ham, Victoria 3810 (03) 5940 9047

Sunray Hydro 157 Tenth Street, Mildura Vic 3500 (03) 5023 6422

Supply Net International P/L PO Box 171, Highbury Vic 5089 (08) 264-3600

The Hydroponic Connection 397 Dorset Road, Boronia Vic 3155 (03) 9761 0662

Waterworks Hydroponics Unit 1, 5 Brand Drive, Thomastown Vic 3074 (03) 9465 1455

WESTERN AUSTRALIAAccent Hydroponics Unit 2/141 Russell Street, Morley WA 6062 (08) 9375 9355

Aqua Post Unit 2B 7 Yampi Way, Willetton WA 6155 (08) 9354 2888

Aquaponics Lot 12 Warton Road, Canning Vale WA 6155 1800 640 222

Bunbury Alternate Growing Supplies8/13 Worcestor Bend, Davenport, WA 6230 (08) 9725 7020

Creative Hydroponics 1/95 Dixon Road, Rockingham WA 6168 (08) 9528 1310

Great Southern Hydroponics Shop 1, 21 Hennessy Road,Bunbury WA 6230 (08) 9721 8322

Greenfingers World of Hydroponics Albany Hwy & Kelvin Rd., Maddington WA 6109 (08) 9452 0546

Greenfingers World of Hydroponics Unit C 14-16 Elliot Street, Midvale WA 6056 (08) 9274 8388

Greenlite Hydroponics 4/91 Wanneroo Road, Tuart Hill WA 6060 (08) 9345 5321

Growsmart Hydroponics 47768 South Coast Highway, Albany WA 6330 (08) 9841 3220

Hydro Nation 41A Rockingham Road, Hamilton Hill WA 6163 (08) 9336 7368

Hydroponic Solutions 1/1928 Beach Road, Malaga WA 6090 (08) 9248 1901

Hydroponic Warehouse Unit 7/627 Wanneroo Road, Wanneroo WA 6065 (08) 9206 0188

Hydroponica 317 Guildford Road, Maylands WA 6051 (08) 9371 5757

Isabella’s Hydroponics 66 Jambanis Road, Wanneroo WA 6065 (08) 9306 3028

Johnson’s Nursery Garden Centre 30 Blencowe Road, Geralton WA 6530 (08) 9921 6016

Neerabup Organic & Hydroponic Supplies Unit 1, 21 Warman St. Neerabup WA 6031 (08) 9404 7155

One Stop Hydroponics 947 Beaufort Street, Inglewood WA 6052 (08) 9471 7000

Perth Hydroponic Centre Shop 4, 171-175 Abernathy Road, Belmont WA 6104 (08) 9478 1211

Reptile and Grow Store Unit 7 - 117-119 Dixon Road, Rockingham WA 6168 (08) 9527 2245

Richo’s 4 HydroUnit 7/22 Franklin Lane, Joondalup, WA 6027(08) 9301 4462

Southwest Hydroponics Lot 29, Pinjarra Road, Mandurah WA 6210 (08) 9534 8544

The Grow Room 1/1451 Albany Highway, Cannington WA 6107 (08) 9356 7044

The Great IndoorsUnit 1/25 Gillam Dr.Kelmscott WA 6111(08) 9495 2815

Bloem PO Box 1816, Subiaco WA 6008 (08) 9217 4400

The Watershed Water Systems 150 Russell Street, Morley WA 6062 (08) 9473 1473

The Watershed Water Systems 2874 Albany Highway, Kelmscott WA 6111 (08) 9495 1495

The Watershed Water Systems 1/146 Great Eastern Highway, Midland WA 6210 (08) 9274 3232

Tru Bloomin Hydroponics7/36 Port Kembla Dr.Bibra Lake, WA 6163(08) 9434 5118

Water Garden Warehouse 14 Drake Street, Osborne Park WA 6017 (08) 9443 7993

NEW ZEALANDEasy Grow New Lynn3018 Gt North Rd New Lynn, Auckland (09) 827 0883

Easy Grow Manukau15/69 Wiri Station Road,Manukau, Auckland (09) 263 7560

Guru Gardener 14 Molesworth St., New Plymouth (06) 758 6661

Otaki Hydroponics1083 S.H. 1 South Otaki (06) 364 2206

House of Hydro221 Waiwhetu Rd., Lower Hutt Wellington

Pet and Garden10 Fitzgerald Ave., Christchurch (03) 377 2507

Grow and Brew14a Flexman Place, Silverdale Auckland (09) 426 2095

Green Day Hydroponics Cnr of Maunganui Rd & Tawa St., Mt Maunganui (07) 575 4090

Switched on GardenerNumber 189 (Lower) Dent Street, Whangarei (09) 438 0223

Switched on GardenerUnit 159 Central Park Drive, Henderson (09) 837 1210

Switched on GardenerUnit 1/60 Ti Rakau Drive, Pakuranga (09) 576 0296

Switched on GardenerNumber 1c Sunshine Ave, Hamilton (07) 850 8351

Switched on GardenerNumber 513 Heretaunga Street West, Hastings (06) 876 7885

Switched on GardenerNumber 62 Kaiwharawhara Road, Wellington (04) 472 5265

Switched on Gardener Unit 7/67 View Road, Glenfield (09) 443 0106

Switched on GardenerNumber 1 Rata Street, New Lynn (09) 826 4444

Switched on GardenerNumber 57 Cavendish Drive, Manukau (09) 263 4336

Switched on GardenerNumber 427 Cameron Road, Tauranga (07) 579 9840

Switched on GardenerNumber 1060 Fergusson Drive, Upper Hutt (04) 526 3913

Switched on GardenerNumber 3 Pascoe Street, Nelson (03) 546 4769

Switched on Gardener Number 9 Buckley Road, Linwood (03) 381 0937

Switched on Gardener Number 143 Tuam Street, Christchurch CBD (03) 374 5682

Switched on GardenerNumber 313 King Edward Street, Dunedin (03) 456 1980


COMING UP ON THE WEB

cOMing uP inMarch/April

tenth annual 2014 international trade direCtory now available Maximum Yield’s highly anticipated, comprehensive Best Of Maximum Yield International Trade Directory has been compiled and will be available at maximumyield.com by the first week of January 2014. This one-of-a-kind, annual indoor gardening directory offers the most complete and up-to-date listings of manufacturers, distributors and retail shops globally. This one is set to be the biggest issue yet as the industry keeps on growing.

free digital subsCriptionreceive Maximum Yield in your inbox every month. Subscribe to the digital edition of Maximum Yield by filling out the form at maximumyield.com/subscriptions

announCing our 2014 indoor gardening expo lineupFor the Grow Like a Pro Indoor Gardening Expo in 2014, we've booked four exciting locations spanning from coast to coast in the United States, including Tacoma, Washington (April 5 and 6); Novi, Michigan (May 31 and June 1); San Francisco, California (July 26 and 27); and Boston, Massachusetts (Oct. 18 and 19). Stay tuned to indoorgardenexpo.com to plan your 2014 vacation.

sCan itConnect to maximumyield.com instantly from your smartphone with our Quick response (Qr) Code found on the cover of every issue of Maximum Yield.

we want your feedbaCk!Help us continue to create an informative and exciting product for the indoor gardening industry for years to come, and earn a chance to win one of three $200 cash prizes to spend at your favourite indoor garden retail store, by participating in the Maximum Yield reader Satisfaction Survey. Visit maximumyield.com to fill out the survey. Thank you for helping us keep Maximum Yield the No. 1 indoor gardening magazine in the world!

now even more soCial media aCtivityMaximum Yield now has more Facebook and Twitter activity than ever before. Look out for us on your news feeds as we’ll be asking followers from around the world for their best indoor gardening tips and tricks. Some of the things we learn might find their way into our print editions.

growing systems for beginnersBasic growing systems for beginners come in a myriad of designs and are suitable for cultivating a wide variety of crops. This article introduces new growers to deep-water culture, top-drip, flood-and-drain and hybrid systems, as well as tips for growing with each.

water and nutrient uptake by rootsGrowers universally understand the concept that roots take up nutrients and water to help promote shoot growth. Still, a better comprehension of certain principles of water and nutrient acquisition can help hydroponic growers achieve more impressive results.

soft water’s not that hardSoftened water—you either love it or leave it. But, regardless of which camp you’re in, knowing a little bit about water softener can help you better evaluate your water needs. The bottom line is that if you have hard water, you should probably get a softener.

stay in the know with maximum yield’s e-newsEvery month Maximum Yield’s E-News brings you the latest news, tips and tricks, reader questions, contests and upcoming events. If you are not yet subscribed to our mailing list, sign up today at maximumyield.com/enewssignup

Maximum Yield March/April will be available in March for free at select indoor gardening retail stores across the country and on maximumyield.com

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