mario's_web

MARI_.indd C001MARI_.indd C001 1/18/12 12:40 PM1/18/12 12:40 PM

ZegnaSingle.indd 1ZegnaSingle.indd 1 1/12/12 4:48 PM1/12/12 4:48 PM

MARI.indd 1MARI.indd 1 1/18/12 6:23 PM1/18/12 6:23 PM

MARI_.indd 2MARI_.indd 2 1/18/12 12:37 PM1/18/12 12:37 PM

THE SECRET OF

MAR.10REVEALED

6

MAR.10_REVEALED.indd 6MAR.10_REVEALED.indd 6 1/19/12 8:47 AM1/19/12 8:47 AM

H E R M È S S E L L I E R – H E R M È S H O R L O G E R

CAPE COD TONNEAUSteel case, natural Barenia calfskin

double wrap-around strap crafted by Hermès watchmakers in Switzerland


MARI_Fash9-35.indd 9MARI_Fash9-35.indd 9 1/18/12 12:32 PM1/18/12 12:32 PM

11


y mission 10 years ago was to make the best jeansin the world; that’s still our mission today,” assertsAgave founder Jeff Shafer. “We started with eight

jeans; last year we did $11 million in sales, a record for us, just inmen’s. My wife Lauren (who retired from the business 16 years ago toraise our son Jacob) is back as my co-designer. We’ve become a luxu-ry label focused on USA-made quality product.”

How do you compete with bigger brands?I knew the secret of making the best jeans was in thedenim. I found the best denims from boutique mills inJapan. I focused on fabric and fit, partnering with aJapanese jeans manufacturer with production andlaundry in L.A. that made jeans for Levi’s. They knewhow to make a jean authentically and accurately.Agave stands for the highest quality jeans, made in the USA. Our cus-tomers know this and appreciate our commitment.

How tough is it to work with your spouse?I wouldn’t be a designer today if it weren’t for Lauren. Two companiesago we started working together: I was the owner and she was doingproduction. We hit tough times and had to let our designer go, andLauren encouraged me to do the design myself; she actually taughtme how. I found my passion thanks to Lauren and I’ve been trying toget her back to work with me for a long time. Last September, our sonEli started high school and she finally agreed.

Here’s why it works: We are equals; we trust each other and don’tcompete with one another. We try not to discuss work at home. Wehave the same taste level but complementary skills. We share values.

What’s the next big thing in denim for spring 2012?The news is COLOR in bottoms! One palette is bright and energeticwith a wild side: red, yellow, blue and green. The other is more sub-dued: white, gray, olive, khaki and rusty orange.

Selvedge remains important, along with natural looking washes.Whether it’s rinses, slight abrasions or heavy distressing, it has tolook like it happened naturally over a long period of time.

36

prof

ile

Above: Jeff andLauren ShaferLeft: A look fromAgave’s springcollection

A DECADE OF AGAVE

2012 MARKS THE 10-YEAR ANNIVERSARY

OF THIS COOLCOLLECTION. BY KAREN

ALBERG GROSSMAN

29 Profile_Agave.qxp:MARI_ 1/30/12 2:35 PM Page 36

T H E U L T I M A T E T R O U S E R

Hitl.indd 1Hitl.indd 1 1/28/12 11:05 AM1/28/12 11:05 AM

HUDSONJEANS.COM

Hudson.indd 1Hudson.indd 1 1/12/12 10:57 AM1/12/12 10:57 AM

Samuelsohn.indd 1Samuelsohn.indd 1 1/30/12 1:06 PM1/30/12 1:06 PM

SPORTCOAT 101: THE EASIEST WAY TO ADD STYLE ANDELEGANCE TO YOUR CASUALEVERYDAY LOOK

FORG

ETTA

BLE

MEMORABLE!

The Sportcoat

YOU’RE NEVER FULLY DRESSED WITHOUT...

THE ULTIMATE FINISHING TOUCH AND THE KEY TO A WELL-DRESSED MAN

Marios_ the jacket.indd 49Marios_ the jacket.indd 49 1/28/12 2:40 PM1/28/12 2:40 PM

1

2

34

5

6

7

8

910

TheErmenegildo

Zegna 10-Pocket

Blazer

THIS LIGHTWEIGHT MUST-HAVE

TRAVELS LIKE A PRO AND TAKES

A LOAD OFFYOUR TROUSER

POCKETS.

1 3

2

46

5

8

79

10

Marios_ the jacket.indd 50Marios_ the jacket.indd 50 1/19/12 9:34 AM1/19/12 9:34 AM

DON’T MAKE THE MISTAKE OFTHINKING THAT JUSTBECAUSE IT'S WARM YOU DON’T NEEDA SPORTCOAT!

MEMORABLE!FO

RGET

TABL

E

PH

OTO

GR

AP

HY:

SE

RG

IO K

UR

HA

JEC

. STY

LIN

G: W

EN

DY

MC

NE

TT F

OR

AG

EN

T O

LIV

ER

. GR

OO

MIN

G: T

RE

VO

R B

OW

DE

N F

OR

BE

RN

STE

IN &

AN

DR

IULL

I

Marios_ the jacket.indd 51Marios_ the jacket.indd 51 1/30/12 2:05 PM1/30/12 2:05 PM

denim

52

HO ISN’T SEARCHING for theperfect jeans, a pair thatis both comfortable andsexy? Seemingly impossi-

ble standards for most brands to liveup to… but AG isn’t most brands.Mixing that form-fitting silhouettewith a lived-in feel is what makes AGdenim the hottest on the market.

The company launched in 2001as a collaboration between Mr. YulKu and “the Godfather of denim”Adriano Goldschmied. (Ku owns30-year-old Koos Manufacturing,one of the world’s premier denimfactories; Goldschmied co-foundedDiesel.) The two parted amicablyin 2004 and the brand has been onthe up-and-up since Ku’s son Sambecame design director in 2006.

AG manufactures everything in

its own 400,000 sq. ft. facility inLos Angeles, employing over 1,000workers. The amount of time andpersonal attention that goes intoeach pair is astonishing: fromhand-sanding and oven-bakedwhiskering to new eco-friendlylaser technologies that help createthat perfect vintage look.

“We control every step becausewe’re a vertical operation,” Samsays. “We don’t take shortcuts, ortry to save a few cents here andthere with cheaper fabrics or trims.We really care about the productand want our consumer to lookand feel good in our jeans.”

Premium fabrics are sourcedfrom Japan and Italy, many ofwhich are exclusive to the brand.Recently, AG has also impressed

with its non-denim styles, likesuper-soft pima cotton cords.

In denim and other fabrics alike,Sam highlights colored bottoms asone of spring 2012’s hottest trends.Men should try muted colors likesand and charcoal, while womencan experiment with a morediverse range: dusty shades of roseand gray, and saturated brightslike electric blue and raspberry.

The brand has garnered frequentpress attention thanks to its manycelebrity devotees, includingpower couple Gavin Rossdale andGwen Stefani, and Academy Awardnominee Anne Hathaway. But Samgets most excited when he seessomeone—anyone—walking downthe street in a pair he designed.“For me, that will never get old!”

ATTENTION-GRABBING

STYLEAG JEANS WILL GET YOU NOTICED. BY ELISE M. DIAMANTINI

MARI DENIM_Attention Grabbing Style.qxp:MARI_ 1/19/12 8:38 AM Page 52

Incotex and the other brands of the Slowear group - Montedoro, Zanone and Glanshirt - have made specialization their credo, to give life to garments with a modern, unique and timeless style.

Icotex.indd 53Icotex.indd 53 1/19/12 8:10 AM1/19/12 8:10 AM

54

SPRINGFASHION TIPS

FOR HIM

ASKMARIOQ: I’ve had some of my suits for over a decade and they’re holding

up pretty well. How do I know when it’s time to replace them? Just because your old suits aren’t worn out doesn’t mean they’re still in style.Cuts are slimmer now, so if you haven’t bought a suit since the country had a bal-anced budget, your closet needs updating! Jackets are also slightly shorter, two-buttons are in and pleated pants are out!

The trimmer a suit gets the more important fit becomes, so it’s a good idea toinvest in well-made pieces. Ask us to show you how quality canvassing, construc-tion and fabrics all come together to form the perfect fit, one that highlights yourshape and moves with you without constraining you. We’ll bring you up to speedwith updated models that suit your taste and budget. And don’t forget to pick upa few slimmed-down shirts and ties to complete the new you; nothing ruins thesilhouette of a trim suit faster than wearing a large, lumpy shirt under it.

Q: What can I do to make my casual wardrobe current forspring/summer 2012?

Warm weather sportswear can be casual, but never sloppy. One perfect way toupdate is with the season’s hottest bottoms: think khaki pants, only slimmeddown, in a variety of colors. Make sure they hit just at the top of your shoe, or rollup the bottoms for a more casual look. These new styles pair especially well withwashed or vintage polos, worn with a lightweight unconstructed blazer or jacket.It’s a great look that’s pulled together but easy to wear.

The boat shoe is also back big this summer, offering a perfect footwear optionfor casual style. Try them with colorful shorts for day, or dark jeans and a blazerfor evening. Driving moccasins are also a cool summer shoe; wear them with funsocks or the new “invisible” socks from V.K. Nagrani.

Q: My wife switches her closet every season, but I wear the samesuits and slacks all year round. Am I doing something wrong?

Yes! While some fabrics can be seasonless here in the Northwest, much of yourwardrobe should be adjusted according to the weather. So reorganize your closet,putting aside the heavy wools, flannels and corduroys. Even a classic navy blazerwill be much more comfortable in a lighter-weight wool. In fact, when it comes tosuits and sportcoats, tropical weight wools are the most breathable (and there-fore most comfortable) option for warm weather. Other good choices includelinen, cotton and seersucker in lighter colors that reflect the summer heat.

MARI ASK MARIO_For Him.qxp:MARI_ 1/30/12 1:08 PM Page 54

Eton.indd 1Eton.indd 1 1/12/12 10:53 AM1/12/12 10:53 AM

56

SPRINGFASHION TIPS

FOR HER

ASKLYNWOODQ: It seems that prints are everywhere, but

I’ve never considered myself a “prints person.” Help! From bold geometrics to dreamy florals, our favorite designers are offering allmanner of fabulous prints for 2012. With so many to choose from, there’s some-thing out there for everyone. If you’re new to prints, an easy way to introducethem into your wardrobe is with a flowy, romantic dress or blouse. There are nohard and fast rules, so the most important thing is to come in and start tryingthings on! Don’t discount anything until you see how it looks on you. We promiseto help you find a pretty print you can wear with confidence, and put the springback in your step this season.

Q: I love wearing white in the warmer months, but what can I doto add more visual interest to an all-white outfit?

If you thought white was boring, or that you could only wear it a few months outof the year, you might be surprised at the lighthearted—and light colored—fash-ions that dominated this season’s runways. You can add both newness andlongevity to your wardrobe by layering different tones (bright white, cream andtaupe) and contrasting textures (pique, eyelet, embroidery and knit). This look isall about approachability and ease, so try a loose, sheer blouse over a georgettecami, or top a silky slipdress with a chunky cardigan. And don’t forget to careful-ly consider your undergarments, the literal foundation for any white ensemble.

Q: Asymmetric hemlines look great on the runway, but how can Itranslate the look for real life?

Skirts, dresses and tops with asymmetric cuts are hot right now, so you’ll beremiss if you let their tricky fits scare you away! Don’t be dismayed if you try iton and it doesn’t look exactly like it did on the model. This style is all about pro-portion, but you can always have a piece tailored and tweaked to flatter your par-ticular shape. Working with your associate is key: he or she can point you towardthe pieces that will work for you, help you decide what alterations to make, andsuggest the perfect footwear to complete the look.

MARI ASK LYNWOOD_For Her.qxp:MARI_ 1/28/12 2:45 PM Page 56

ounded in 1923,Samuelsohn is aMontreal-based clothingcompany with a reputa-tion for excellence basedon fine tailoring, luxuryfabrics, unusual atten-

tion to detail and modern style. For Samuelsohn, fine tailoring

means fully-basted canvas con-struction: there is no glue in theinterlinings of their suits, so thatthe garment maintains its shape,fit and comfort even after repeatedcleanings. Their luxury fabrics arefrom the best mills in Italy andEngland, featuring cashmere,camel hair, superfine wools, Pimacotton, Italian silk and preciousfibers like vicuna and yangir.Hand-tailored details includeBemberg linings, corozo or hornbuttons, silk threads and labels,and Italian cotton pocketing.

But perhaps Samuelsohn’s realsecret weapon is its designer,Arnold Brant Silverstone, who grewup working for his family’s clothingcompany in Montreal beforelaunching his own in the late 1990s.Respected as one of the most tal-ented designers in the industry,he’s also known for his dapper per-

sonal style. Here, we speakwith him about tailored cloth-ing, and about what makes awell-dressed man.

What’s so special about aSamuelsohn suit?It’s about hand-craftsmanship:each suit takes six and a halfhours of labor, more than manyof the well-known designerbrands that arealmost twice theprice. Are theymade totallyby hand?No. If wecould auto-mate it all, wewould. But thereare severalprocesses amachine can’tduplicate: the hand-basting, the hand-sewn armholes, theshoulder. Certainsteps can be automat-ed and you won’t seethe difference, butothers cannot. Mostimportantly, technol-

OLD WORLD QUALITY, MODERN STYLE.BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

SAMUELSOHN:

NEVER COMPROMISE

prof

ile

Samuelsohndesigner ArnoldBrant Silverstone

58

MARI PROFILE_Samuelsohn_Never Compromise.qxp:MARI_ 1/28/12 2:47 PM Page 58

BO

SS

Bla

ck

H

UG

O B

OS

S F

AS

HIO

NS

IN

C.

P

ho

ne

+1 2

12 9

40 0

600

Boss.indd 1Boss.indd 1 1/12/12 10:49 AM1/12/12 10:49 AM

ogy has not been able to duplicatea full canvas garment. Cheapersuits look okay on a hanger sincethe shape comes from pressing.But after dry cleaning, that shapeis gone. Your suits are known for acertain “expression”—whatdoes this mean?It means the garments are not flat:there’s a certain dimension, a soft-ness, a sexiness. After all, thehuman body is not flat, so a well-tailored suit should also haveshape and dimension.What should guys look forwhen buying a suit?The most important thing is fit:when you put on the garment, itshould make you look better. Awell-tailored suit hides myriadimperfections and moves with you.The shoulders should be on you,not out to there. Today, men arewearing suits closer to the body,but that shouldn’t mean you losecomfort. It’s like driving a greatsports car and really feeling theroad. When you wear a quality suit,it moves with you.How can guys look elegantwhen they’re not wearingsuits?The biggest problem is when menequate casual with not caring, with

throwing on jeans and a T-shirt.The best-dressed men put thoughtinto dressing: casual might meanbeautifully tailored cotton pantsand a soft jacket or a lightweightknit cashmere sweater or a coolreversible outerwear piece. Thinkback to the best-dressed men overthe decades: The Rat Pack, James

Bond, the Kennedys, Cary Grant,George Clooney… However casualthe look, it was well thought-out,not thrown together, reflectingtheir personal style. What are the key items aman should have forspring/summer 2012?1) A great summer suit, maybe atropical wool in British tan or dovegray. 2) A performance blazer orsuit, either with high-twist yarns orsome Lycra. Most guys these daysare traveling or on the move butthere’s no reason not to look crisp…3) A cool outerwear piece: some-thing reversible or with interiorpockets or truly transitional andmulti-functional. 4) A soft coat.We’re famous for ours: they looktailored but weigh next to nothing.What’s the secret of successfor a clothing manufacturer?Passion! I’ve been doing this formore than 20 years; I inherited thepassion from my parents. But inaddition to passion, one needs aspirit of innovation. We’re on topof the latest fabrics, fits, technolo-gies. We’re always pushing theenvelope, never satisfied with thestatus quo. We want the customerto say “WOW!” every time he putson one of our garments. That’s mypassion, and my mission.

How would you describeyour own personal style? I like to look contemporary: notblending in with the crowd but notblatantly standing out. I like cloth-ing that’s special, with the focus onfit, quality and elegance. That’s theway I like to dress and the kind ofclothing I love to design!

CLOTHING THAT’S SPECIAL, WITH THE FOCUS ON FIT, QUALITY AND ELEGANCE.

60

MARI PROFILE_Samuelsohn_Never Compromise.qxp:MARI_ 1/30/12 1:09 PM Page 60

pau

lsh

ark.

it

MAR_P061_PaulShark.indd 1MAR_P061_PaulShark.indd 1 1/12/12 12:45 PM1/12/12 12:45 PM

desig

ners

ALL I

MA

GE

S B

Y N

EA

L P

RE

ST

ON

62

When Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsenlaunched their highly publicizedluxury apparel and accessories col-lection back in 2007, there weremany skeptics. Just because a girlis beautiful, rich, famous andsought after doesn’t mean she candesign! (And that goes doublewhen there are two of them!)

How the skeptics were wrong!Today, New York-based designersAshley and Mary-Kate Olsen are sell-ing their cool, contemporary apparelto fashionable women everywhere.

How did they do it? THE ROW

has always emphasized the clas-sics: the label’s initial mission wasto make the perfect T-shirt. Witheach collection, the pieces becamemore innovative without becomingoverly trendy or straying too farfrom this classic aesthetic.

“We start each season by pullingtogether images of people andplaces that inspire us.” The finestfabrics are chosen early in the cre-ative process to help inform eachcollection.

Ashley describes thespring/summer 2012 designs as

“equally modern and tribal” featur-ing easy, relaxed silhouettes. Thedesigners used a broad ivorypalette, with elements of pale blueand a sea animal paisley print, fora very ethereal result.

Where will they go from here?Will the designers ever make dra-matic changes in their vision forthe label? “THE ROW will contin-ue to evolve, but our foundationwill always be classic, wearableclothing,” Ashley insists. In fact,asked what they’d do differently,both designers agree that theywouldn’t have changed a thing.“Everything we’ve done has led usto where we are,” says Mary-Kate.“We trust our instincts and keepmoving forward.”

Ashley and Mary-Kate werenamed members of The Council ofFashion Designers of America in2009, a very prestigious honor fora young company. They plan tomove steadily ahead, growing thebusiness and expanding their cate-gories with a steadfast focus.

Asked to offer advice to aspiringyoung designers, both jump at theopportunity. Says Ashley:“Establish a clear vision and staytrue to it.” As for Mary-Kate, shebelieves that no matter how talent-ed and/or creative the designer,taking a business course or twonever hurts…

DOES IT RIGHTTHE ROW

“NO MATTER THESILHOUETTE, WESTICK TO OUR COREPRINCIPLES OF GREATFABRIC AND FIT.”—MARY-KATE OLSEN

CELEBRITY, LUXURY, QUINTESSENTIAL STYLE: THISCOLLECTION HAS IT ALL! BY KELSEY WHITE

MARI PROFILE_The Row.qxp:MARI_ 1/28/12 2:49 PM Page 62

Diesel.indd 1Diesel.indd 1 1/28/12 2:51 PM1/28/12 2:51 PM

RMENEGILDO ZEGNA’s new Milano suit for spring 2012 is anexquisitely detailed work of art that, one could say,took the Italian clothier a century to perfect. Just intime for the luxury menswear brand’s 100th anniver-sary, the Milano is a super-soft study in sartorial chic

that combines a slim shape, gently fitted waistand natural, semi-constructed shoulders.

Like all Zegna suits this season, the newMilano, available in both single and double-breasted, is interpreted in a range of color-

ful natural fabrics that appear to bebleached by the sun, with an ever-so-slight sheen reminiscent ofsharkskin clothing from the 1950s.But the Milano is tailored with adecidedly modern sensibility. Thejacket is cut slightly shorter andfeatures just a hint more interiorcanvas—as many as three layers—for structure, yet the finished gar-ment remains remarkably light-weight. The defining element is

the barchetta, or boat-shapedbreast pocket, a sewing detail that

can only be achieved by hand.Initially a cloth producer and later a

suit and sportswear maker, ErmenegildoZegna (pronounced zane-ya) has per-

fected the art of lighter-than-air suit mak-ing like no other designer label in history.

The Trivero, Italy-based mega-brand notonly constructs all of its own suits in fac-tories around the world (prompting thecompany to introduce the slogan ‘Made in

Zegna’), but the family-owned company

suiti

ng

64

TAILORED TO PERFECTION

100 YEARS LATER, OLD-WORLD CRAFTSMANSHIP MEETSMODERN TECHNOLOGY. BY WILLIAM KISSEL

Zegna suits in a rangeof colorful naturalfabrics that appear tobe bleached by the sun.

MARI SUITING_Tailored to Perfection.qxp:MARI_ 1/27/12 1:46 PM Page 64

ww

w.b

rune

llocu

cine

lli.it

C

aste

l del

Mon

te -

And

ria

Cucinelli.indd 1Cucinelli.indd 1 1/17/12 4:57 PM1/17/12 4:57 PM

66

has pioneered everything from thetechnically advanced fabrics usedto make its suits to the su mesura,or made-to-measure, concept oftenemployed to sell them.

WHAT MAKES AN ERMENEGILDOZEGNA SUIT SO SPECIAL—espe-cially the made-to-measure

variety—can only be answered byslipping into one. Each piece is alabor of love tailored to your exactspecifications, in the fabric of yourchoice. You can select the numberof pockets and even the buttonsand whether or not they work.Moreover, it will be made withsuch attention to detail that yourevery physical anomaly—fromsloping shoulders and a thrownback to a hollow chest or anenlarged abdomen—is actuallymasked by the finished garment.(Buying one of these suits is a farbetter option than going under thedoctor’s knife.)

“By the time a made-to-measuresuit is complete over 500 handswill have touched it and more than7,000 hand stitches will have beenused to create it,” explains imagedirector Anna Zegna.

Zegna workers have a hand inevery step, from shearing the sheepthrough the processing of the fiberinto yarn (and then fine fabrics), tothe cutting and sewing of everyjacket using a combination of mod-ern machinery and hand finishing.

“The perfect fit of a Zegna suitcomes from constructing it with100 pieces; the lining alone com-prises 12 separate components,”adds Zegna. After each piece isprecision cut, it passes through thehands of hundreds of tailors,whose singular purpose is to turnone-dimensional pieces of clothinto a three-dimensional garment

worthy of the most discriminatingclientele. The waistband, fly andbelt loops on a pair of trousers canrequire more than 20 workers, andit takes the efforts of another 24tailors to construct the sleeves of ajacket; nearly 190 sewers areinvolved in creating the body of asingle jacket. Even the act ofsewing a simple buttonhole “cantake an eternity of careful cuttingand stitching,” says Zegna.

Once the fabric has been cut,corresponding pieces are carefullybundled and passed down to thetailors and sewers to construct the

garment, which can take as long asfour days to wind its way throughthe 110-step production cycle.

Upon completion each suitundergoes an arduous pressingprocess performed by dozens ofworkers: six to press the slacks andanother 22 to press and hand-ironthe jacket before it receives itsfinal inspection. If the finished gar-ment meets the company’s loftystandards, it is literally given theZegna seal of approval as the sig-nature logo is sewn in place.

THE SECRET of a Zegna suitisn’t just the meticulous wayit’s put together, but theinnovative cloth used to makeit. The company’s founder andnamesake, Ermenegildo Zegna,began as a fabric maker in1910 with the creation of anatural wool weighing roughly350 grams per square meter,considered featherweight byearly 20th-century standards.Today, most Zegna fabrics weighin at a fraction of that andinclude such technical advancesas Trofeo, a worsted wool madeof prestige Australian superfinemerino wool with long fibers foradded strength and resiliency;and the latest 13milmil13, avicuna-like fabric made from

merino yarns measuring lessthan 13 microns. (To appreciatehow exceptional this is, oneneed only reflect on the factthat a human hair measuresroughly 50 to 60 microns.) Thedevelopment of such fine micronwools is the result of Zegna’s1963 initiative, the VellusAureum trophy, which motivatesand awards Australia and NewZealand’s sheep farmers whoproduce these ultra-fine wools.

Pioneering fabrics for springinclude Zero Weight, a blend ofsuperfine merino wool and silkwith a yarn count of 600—thefinest silk quality in the world.The company is also movingforward with last year’s CoolEffect, in which fine Australian

wool is finished to enable darkfabrics to reflect heat like light-colored ones. The result: a cloththat keeps the wearer 10degrees cooler than if he werewearing an untreated fabric.

“Fabric represents Zegna’sheritage and it’s the primaryfocus of our innovation,” saysAnna Zegna, noting that thebrand offers more than 700cloth options, including 200 newfabrics each season, as part ofits made-to-measure suit service.Over the course of thecompany’s 100-year history,“Zegna has invented over 20unique and innovative fabrics invarious colors, patterns andtextures, which have becomestaples of our collection.”

MARI SUITING_Tailored to Perfection.qxp:MARI_ 1/30/12 1:13 PM Page 66

Isaia.indd 1 7/12/11 4:40 PM

style

IMA

GE

BY

MIC

HA

EL P

OLIZ

A P

HO

TO

GR

AP

HY

68

IN THE 1960s film La Dolce Vita,main character Marcello Rubini(played to perfection by MarcelloMastroianni) wears a series ofform-fitting two-button suits fea-turing curvaceous lapels, soft natu-

ral shoulders and cigarette-cutslacks. When not wearing a shirtand tie, he opts for Johnny collarknit shirts accented with a scarf orascot, casually knotted at the neckin a way only the most debonairItalian men are capable of pullingoff with effectiveness.

No one ever second guesses thecharacter’s (supposedly a journal-ist) sense of style. Forget the factthat no American journalist—except the occasional fashion edi-tor or perhaps the novelist TomWolfe—dresses with suchunabashed sartorial flair. In Italy,whether students, statesmen orstreet sweepers, most men natural-ly possess a sense of chic thateludes the rest of us.

Italians grow up in a culturewhere sartorial style is taken forgranted. “We have a native predis-position for elegance and style, acharacteristic that has been devel-oped and improved upon overtime,” explains Elisabetta Canali,scion of the Canali clothing family.“Good taste and savoir faire arejust a part of the Italian culture.”

By way of tailors (found on everystreet corner), Italian men learnabout fine fabrics, the importance

DRESS LIKE YOU WERE BORN INTO LA DOLCE VITA. BY WILLIAM KISSEL

DISCOVER YOURINNER ITALIAN

PIT

TI

IMM

AG

INE

UO

MO

/ T

OM

MY

TO

N

MARI STYLE_Discover Your Inner Italian.qxp:MARI_ 1/28/12 2:56 PM Page 68

FIND OUT ALL ABOUT THE L.12.12 POLO SHIRT ON LACOSTE.COM/L1212


of a razor-sharp fit and how to mixand match shirts, ties and acces-sories. Moreover, through experi-ence and experimentation theydiscover that a suit with a higharmhole isn’t necessarily tight anduncomfortable—just the opposite,in fact. Most important, they train

themselves not to be afraid ofcolor for fear of being bullied orjudged. Just as “it is important formen to choose the right silhouettein order to feel most comfortable,it is equally important to work withcolor to give each outfit someexcitement,” adds Canali.

“A man should look for a suithe can wear, and not a suit thatwill wear him. In other words, ele-

gance, sophistication and timelessstyle are always better than of-the-moment trends, which will date thewearer,” offers Giorgio Armani.“As for style, a two-button suit ismore timeless than a three- or aone-button. A single-breasted ismore versatile than double, allow-ing you to dress your suit up ordown more freely and use the jack-et as a separate more easily.”Finally, says Mr. Armani,“Confidence and a sense of humormake a man sexy.”

Dressing like an Italian is aboutdiscovering a sense of balance,proportion, color and pattern. Onecan begin to develop Italian-esquestyle with a few simple tricks: • Wear dark sunglasses,

Mastroianni style, in any weather. • Don loafers without socks.• Drape and loosely knot a colorful

sweater over your shoulders. • Carry an oversized bag across

your chest.• Secure your necktie with a knot

large enough to land a smallplane on.

• Add a notice-me belt (white is anoption even in winter) to bring atouch of panache to your jeans.

• Wear a coordinating top coatover your suit or sportcoat.

• Consider flat-front red pants orwhite jeans.If you’re worried about remem-

bering these rules, turn to adesigner collection, like LucianoBarbera or Brunello Cucinelli, forinspiration that can help make theprocess a bit easier. Barberaprefers a bit of formality in hischeck cashmere sportcoats, wornwith crisp cotton shirts, wool ties

and flat-front trousers. He also rec-ommends brown suede shoes withmost outfits to give your look asporty yet sophisticated edge.

The Cucinelli formula is equallydistinctive: trim-cut gray flannelslacks or jeans, a knit shirt and/orpullover sweater, and a gray cash-mere blazer with suede elbowpatches and a turned up collar.Since Armani invented his slouchysuits in the ’80s, few designersuntil Cucinelli have seen their“look” adopted by such an eclecticassortment of men—from the 70-year-old businessman to the 25-year-old college student.

“I think it’s very important howwe put things together,” saysCucinelli, one of the few Italiandesigners who espouses facial hairwith his cashmere blazers. “I like toshow clothing, even tailored pieces,in a sporty chic way that is ageless.Because when I’m 50 years old, likeeveryone else, I want to lookyounger,” adds the designer (whoclaims to be 49, despite what itsays on his birth certificate).

Cucinelli designs each piece soit can be worn on its own and in avariety of ways. “A 25-year-old manis not going to wear a classic pin-stripe suit,” he says, suggesting

that a tailored gray cashmere blaz-er over khakis or jeans can beequally elegant, depending on theman wearing it.

Bottom line: open your mind andexperiment with your wardrobe tofind your perfect style. After all,you may be able to afford a Guccisuit or Prada loafers, but that cashregister receipt doesn’t come witha diploma in style.

70

“ELEGANCE, SOPHISTICATION AND TIMELESS STYLE ARE ALWAYS BETTER THANOF-THE-MOMENT TRENDS.”—GIORGIO ARMANI

MARI STYLE_Discover Your Inner Italian.qxp:MARI_ 1/28/12 2:56 PM Page 70

WWW.PAULSMITHUSA.COM


MARI.indd C003MARI.indd C003 1/28/12 3:02 PM1/28/12 3:02 PM

Canali.indd 1Canali.indd 1 1/12/12 10:50 AM1/12/12 10:50 AM

MA

RIO

’S F

OR

UM

SP

RIN

G 2

01

2

Spines:Document 1 1/18/12 4:49 PM Page 7

mario's_web

Documents

indd c001mari

switzerland mari

i e r h e r

amh e r

s h o r

best denims

best jeansin

pmy mission