march 2015 | our 36th year andrewharper · 2 hideaway report march 2015 buying white truffles the...

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This MonthPiedmont, ItalyAtmospheric hotels, excep-tional food and wine, and an interlude in elegant Turin

Chicago, IllinoisUpdate on one of my favorite North American cities

Online Exclusives> Piedmont Dining Slideshow> Food Shopping in Piedmont> Chicago Architecture Cruise> Chicago Slideshow and Video> Salvage Stores in Chicago

Los Cabos Reopening

IN T HE N E WS

‘IT’S AN ILL WIND that

blows no good,” Google

informs me, is a 16th-

century English proverb,

and hence of little

obvious relevance to the

One&Only Palmilla resort

in Los Cabos, Mexico.

However, the devastation

wrought by Hurricane

Odile in September has

now been repaired and

the property will reopen

on April 20. Many of the

173 rooms have new baths

and upgraded ameni-

ties; the Agua by Larbi

restaurant, which features

Mediterranean cuisine

with Mexican influences by

chef Larbi Dahrouch, has

been entirely redesigned

— including its famous

clifftop terrace. And a

new spa will debut, with

secluded garden massage

villas. So, Odile’s tantrum

turns out to have been

surprisingly constructive.

ONE ANDONLY RESORTS.COM

T R AV E L I NG T H E WOR L D I N SE A RC H OF T RU LY E NC H A N T I NG PL AC E S

MARCH 2015 | OUR 36TH YEAR AndrewHarper.com

Piedmont abounds with delicacies, including exceptional beef; excellent cheeses such as Castelmagno; Gianduiotto chocolates; and Arborio rice, which is grown on the wet plains around the towns of Vercelli and Novara. Its most famous culinary product, however, remains hidden until a brief season from late September to the end of November. This is when farmers using specially trained dogs take to the hills and forests of the Langhe and Monferrato districts in search of the pungent and astronomically expensive white truffles prized

all over the world. Delicious mushrooms, including porcini, are in season at the same time.

Since I’m an avid truffle hound myself and love the great wines of the Piedmont, I decided to spend 10 days in the region last fall. Since then, a day has rarely passed when I haven’t recalled the sublime meals and tastings we enjoyed during our relaxing tour. Piedmont should be on everyone’s bucket list. Be forewarned, however: It is a very popular destination during truffle season, and reservations must be made well in advance.

Piedmont: An Italian Driving Tour

B A C K D R O P P E D B Y T H E S N O W C A P P E D P E A K S O F T H E A L P S , P I E D M O N T I S A S U P E R B

destination for food and wine connoisseurs, as well as all Italophiles. Bordered by France and Switzerland, the rolling hills of this fertile region are planted with vineyards that produce some of the world’s great wines, notably Barolo and Barbaresco. And the elegant city of Turin charms with its spectacular baroque architecture, fine museums and outstanding cafés and restaurants.

T EN DAYS OF T RU FFL ES, P ORCIN I A N D BA ROLO

Villa Tiboldi, near Canale

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2 HIDEAWAY REPORT MARCH 2015

Buying White Truffles

THE WHITE TRUFFLE

(Tuber magnatum pico)

is a fungi usually found

close to the roots of trees.

It comes from the Langhe

and Monferrato areas,

most famously in the

countryside around Asti

and the charming town

of Alba, the world’s white

truffle capital. The time to

visit is during the truffle

season in October and

November. Don’t miss the

International Alba White

Truffle Fair, with its Truffle

Market on Saturdays and

Sundays. The record price

for a single white truffle

was paid in December

2007, when a specimen

weighing 3.3 pounds was

bought for $330,000. The

best place to stock up on

truffle products, including

delicious pastes and oils,

is at Tartufi Ponzio.

From Turin, we drove south for 90 minutes to Alba on roads through cornfields, hazelnut

plantations and vineyards. This charming city of 32,000 inhabitants is renowned for its Truffle Market on weekends. Arriving at noon, we found the air redolent with enticing cooking smells, and we entered chef Enrico Crippa’s three-star restaurant Piazza Duomo, which overlooks the main square from its first-floor dining room, with a keen appetite.

Crippa trained with many of the great chefs of Europe, including Spain’s Ferran Adrià, France’s Michel Bras and Italy’s Gualtiero Marchesi. While running a restaurant in Kobe, Japan, he began to develop his own style, which mixes innovation with reinterpretations of traditional Piedmont dishes. Though many people come to Duomo for the truffle menu, we opted for a tasting menu, which is the best way to discover Crippa’s brilliance. An intriguing suite of 10 beautifully presented dishes included shrimp with grape must, scallops with sea urchin and shavings of Pecorino cheese, veal sweetbreads with artichokes, and an improbably delicious dessert of roasted corn, quince and orange. Obliging service and an excellent selection of wines by the glass added to the pleasure of one of the finest meals I’ve ever eaten in Italy.

The little village of Sinio is a 30-minute drive from Alba. There, the 14th-century Castello di Sinio houses a remarkable 14-room hotel. After ringing a bell at the gate, we drove up a short, winding road to the castle. Having been warmly greeted by two porters, we found ourselves chatting with a woman from San Francisco, who turned out to be one of the friendliest hoteliers I’ve met during all of my years of travel. Denise Pardini trained as a chef, working

for a brief stint at Chez Panisse in Berkeley; ran her own restaurant; then had a successful career in high tech before the abrupt end of the first Internet boom. She then decided to spend several months in Italy learning the language. Her original destination of Lucca in Tuscany — where her father’s family had come from — was supplanted by Piedmont, owing to her fascination with its wines. Seeing that the region was becoming increasingly popular with sophisticated travelers, she decided to open a hotel.

Scouting for a property to renovate, she came across the ruined castle in 2000. “Just out of curiosity, I drove up the little road to Sinio. My heart started pounding when the man in the local café told me the castle was for sale,” she told us. The five-year renovation that ensued was “the most challenging but also most rewarding thing I’ve ever done in my whole life.” The hotel, with its walled garden,

LO C A L DEL IC ACIES

The garden and our Junior Suite at Castello di Sinio, and Nebbiolo grapes in Barolo PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER

MARCH 2015 HIDEAWAY REPORT 3

outdoor swimming pool and vine-covered arbor where breakfast is served in good weather, became an immediate success.

If the dramatic setting and pleasingly furnished rooms partly explain its popularity, the hotel is exceptional mainly for Pardini’s warm and personal hospitality. At check-in, along with flutes of Prosecco, she presented us with her guide to the area, an invaluable document that lists and describes local restaurants, along with detailed information on their locations and opening times, plus her favorite shops, wine bars, wine producers, places to walk, places to picnic, best views over the country, and other sights. Pardini was always present at breakfast to help guests plan their days, and was on hand again in the evening to make sure they had restaurant reservations or anything else they needed. Not only does Pardini do a fine job of running this intimate property, she is also a superlative cook. On our first night at dinner, we sampled a rich, earthy mushroom flan, a delicious risotto, and roasted pork garnished with black cherries. The impressive and well-priced wine list is a reflection of her deep knowledge of local wines and friendships with many of the best small producers.

Even though our air-conditioned Junior Suite did not come with a completely separate sitting area, we liked its exposed stone walls, terra-cotta tile floors and huge exposed beams. In the late afternoon, the room was flooded with sunlight, and it was a pleasure to relax with a book in one of the two armchairs arranged beside the window to take advantage of views of the campanile across the street and the vineyards rolling over the distant hillsides. A tub would have been welcome in the spacious and

well-lit bath — which was provided with Acqua di Parma toiletries and Frette bathrobes — and the stall shower was a bit snug, but we thoroughly enjoyed every minute of our three-night stay.

W hen planning our Piedmont trip, I’d decided to visit each of the principal wine regions.

Castello di Sinio is perfectly located for discovering the wines of Barolo. Our next stop, the 30-room Relais San Maurizio, owned by Pier Domenico Gallo, a well-known Piemontese banker, is ideally situated for the Barbaresco and Barbera vineyards, as well as those around the town of Asti that produce excellent and underrated sparkling wines.

Perched on a hillside just outside of the town of Santo Stefano Belbo, with spectacular views over steep, vineyard-planted hills, this casually elegant hotel was built in 1619 as a Franciscan monastery. Gallo bought the property in 1997 for his private residence, and later transformed it into a hotel. Surrounded by lovely gardens dotted with ancient cedar trees and modern sculptures, the property consists of two main buildings: the original manor house, where the excellent Guido da Costigliole restaurant occupies a spectacular vaulted cellar, and a recently opened annex.

We were initially shown to a Junior Suite in the historic main building that was charming but rather small, so we asked to see the new Suites San Luigi in the handsome two-story brick building nearby. We were immediately seduced by these light, spacious and stylish accommodations. Our suite was attractively furnished with a mix of contemporary Italian furniture and antiques, and was decorated in earth tones. The lounge area provided a built-in

Wine TastingENOTECAS OFFER

library-like selections of

the wines produced in the

surrounding areas. They are

a great way to sample wines

if you don’t have the time

or inclination to go from

vineyard to vineyard. Two

of the best are the Enoteca

Regionale del Barbaresco

and the Enoteca Regionale

del Barolo, each of which

offers an excellent program

of guided tastings. The

enoteca in Barbaresco

is housed by an early

19th-century chapel

and features exhibits on

Barbaresco wines, plus a

bar. The Barolo enoteca

is located within the

impressive Falletti Castle

and is run by the town

of Barolo. It offers wines

from the 11 districts that

comprise the Barolo zone.

An excellent selection of

Barolos and grappas

is for sale.

The village of Sinio, aerial view of Relais San Maurizio, and details of our suite

SINIO AND SUITE PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER AERIAL PHOTO © RELAIS & CHATEAUX

“ Relais San Maurizio is situated close to the Barbaresco vineyards.


desk and a bar with an espresso maker. The bedroom contained a Jacuzzi, while the bath itself came with Boffi fixtures, including double vanities, and a large stall shower. As the suite was on the ground floor, we had two private terrace gardens, one in front with a Jacuzzi and lovely views of the countryside, and the other in back. Overall, these discreetly luxurious lodgings were extremely well-designed, well-lit and comfortable.

Elsewhere, we discovered a delightful conserva-tory bar filled with flowering bougainvillea, potted plants and trees. In the excellent restaurant, the dish not to miss proved to be the local Vicciola beef, which is exceptionally flavorful but so lean that it has less cholesterol than sea bass. (There are many restaurants nearby, including the outstand-ing Ristorante del Belbo da Bardon, which has one of the region’s best wine lists and serves delicious Piemontese country dishes such as tagliolini with porcini mushrooms, and roasted veal.) The highlight of our afternoons was visiting the spa, where we took reviving soaks in the brine pool, followed by turns in the salt grotto. Excellent massages and a variety of beauty treatments are also available.

The Relais San Maurizio is a sophisticated country house hotel that updates the best of Italian style and hospitality with a confident and witty modernity. After several peaceful days, we left with real regret.

T he inhabitants of Piedmont take their food very seriously. In 1989, Italian food writer

Carlo Petrini assembled a group of journalists, restaurateurs and food producers to defend Italy’s rich gastronomic heritage from industrialized food production. The triggering event was the opening of a McDonald’s near the Spanish Steps in Rome. His organization, which has become the international Slow Food movement, is based in the little Piedmont town of Bra, Petrini’s hometown. There, we stopped for lunch at the Osteria del Boccondivino adjacent to Slow Food headquarters, and on a mild Indian summer day, enjoyed an excellent meal of carne cruda (steak tartare), rabbit braised in red wine, and panna cotta in the garden courtyard. Afterward, we dropped in at the Slow Food shop to buy a copy of “Osterie d’Italia,” its celebrated guide to the best osterias in Italy.

Our next stop, the 10-room Villa Tiboldi, is set on a hillside overlooking the vast Malvirà

wine-producing estate, just outside of the town of

Piedmont’s Best Restaurants

PIEDMONT IS ONE OF THE GASTRONOMIC CENTERS OF EUROPE. Both the food

and the wine are consistently exceptional. Here are the restaurants that I most enjoyed

on my recent tour.

Piazza Duomo The brilliant contemporary Italian cooking at chef Enrico Crippa’s three-

star establishment makes this the best restaurant in Piedmont. PIAZZA RISORGIMENTO 4,

ALBA. TEL. (39) 0173-366-167. PIAZZADUOMOALBA.IT

Trattoria della Posta Few places are as charming on a warm fall day as this well-run old

tavern, with its wonderful wine list and a terrace with a view of the Langhe Hills. Try dishes

such as tajarin (taglierini), an egg-dough ribbon pasta, with a ragout of rabbit, pork and

veal; and veal braised in Barolo wine with peppercorns. LOCALITÀ SANT’ANNA 87, MONFORTE

D’ALBA. TEL. (39) 0173-78120. TRATTORIADELLAPOSTA.IT

L’Osteria del Vignaiolo This friendly trattoria is located in one of the region’s prettiest

villages. Look for delicious simple dishes such as poached eggs with goat cheese and

black truffles, and venison “osso buco” with Nebbiolo wine. FRAZIONE SANTA MARIA 12, LA

MORRA. TEL. (39) 0173-50335. OSTERIADELVIGNAIOLO.IT

Guido Ristorante This formal gastronomic restaurant is housed in a handsome old

villa on the Fontanafredda wine estate. Look for locally inspired dishes such as pasta with

truffles and porcini, pumpkin gnocchi with a ragout of sausage and radicchio, and deli-

cious roast veal. VIA ALBA 15, SERRALUNGA D’ALBA. TEL. (39) 0173-626-162. GUIDORISTORANTE.IT

Osteria dell’Arco This popular osteria with a modern setting offers excellent casual

dining. Try dishes such as vitello tonnato (chilled veal with creamy tuna sauce); ravioli

stuffed with veal, pork and spinach; guinea fowl with chestnuts; and panna cotta with pears

cooked in Muscat wine. PIAZZA SAVONA 5, ALBA. TEL. (39) 0173-363-974. BOCCONDIVINOSLOW.IT

Osteria del Boccondivino This charming osteria is located at the headquarters of the

Slow Food movement in Bra. Typical dishes include broccoli and cauliflower flan with a

fondue of Raschera cheese, and brasato al Barolo (beef stew cooked with Barolo wine and

served with polenta). VIA MENDICITÀ 14, BRA. TEL. (39) 0172-425-674. BOCCONDIVINOSLOW.IT

Cantina dei Cacciatori Be sure to try the great mushroom dishes in season at this

rustic auberge near Canale. The list of Roero wines is excellent. LOCALITÀ VILLA SUPERIORE

59, MONTEU ROERO. TEL. (39) 0173-90815. CANTINADEICACCIATORI.IT

Osteria Due Grappoli Fish from the nearby port of Liguria features extensively on

the menu of this friendly restaurant with a vaulted brick ceiling. Look for dishes such as

octopus carpaccio with orange sauce, and black rice with shrimp and vegetables. Meat

specialties include rabbit with capers, and guinea fowl cooked in Port wine. VIA SANTA

CROCE 38, CUNEO. TEL. (39) 0171-698-178. OSTERIADUEGRAPPOLI.IT

Ristorante del Belbo da Bardon This relatively inexpensive country auberge offers deli-

cious rustic food such as tagliolini with porcini, roast shank of veal, and pears poached in

wine. The wine list is superb. VIA VALLE ASINARI 25, SAN MARZANO OLIVETO. TEL. (39) 0141-831-340.

And Two to Avoid …

All’Enoteca Despite its one-star rating in the Italian Michelin Guide, we found the food

in this Canale restaurant fussy, boring and overpriced — and the service was unfriendly.

Trattoria i Bologna Though well-rated by many travelers to Piedmont, this out-of-the-

way restaurant is not worth the detour to Rocchetta Tanaro, since the cooking is just

better than average and is overpriced.

Steak tartare at Osteria dell’Arco, and linguine with white truffles at Guido PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER


Canale. The vineyard is run by Massimo and Roberto Damonte, and their wives oversee the Villa Tiboldi. Arriving at the end of a sunny autumn afternoon, I was immediately taken by the beauty of the scene: an impressive cream-colored villa framed by ancient chestnut trees and surrounded by weathered brick farm buildings, set in an ocean of vineyards. The infinity pool looked inviting, and our expectations were high. So it was a disappointment to find that our Junior Suite was in an outbuilding over the kitchen. Somewhat dark and rustically furnished, it had none of the appeal of the handsome suites in the main villa (which I later learned are often booked months ahead). These are decorated in a so-called “Liberty” style, a reference to the art nouveau fabrics made famous by the London department store, and offer a tasteful mix of antiques and contemporary furniture, canopied beds, attractive baths and memorable views.

Currently, Villa Tiboldi is a very good hotel that could be great. There was no porter when we arrived, and the woman at the front desk reacted with exasperation to requests for restaurant reservations, as she was busy with clerical work. That said, the exquisite location, lovely pool and excellent restaurant make this a good base for exploring the vineyards of the Roero region. And our impressions of the property would have been entirely different had we stayed in the main villa. It is perhaps worth emphasizing once again that travel to Piedmont during the fall high season should be booked as far in advance as possible.

S ince I’ve always been a keen student of the Napoleonic Wars, we concluded our tour with

a night in Cuneo, an old garrison town that was constantly besieged by invading French armies. Today, it is distinguished by quiet streets lined with long arcades that contain lively cafés and old-fashioned shops. We stayed at the well-run 47-room Palazzo Lovera, a once-grand hotel that has been renovated to suit the needs of business travelers. Nowadays, it is not a luxury property, but our Junior Suite was attractive and comfortable, and the staff couldn’t have been friendlier. That night, we dined at the Osteria Due Grappoli, a four-minute walk away. After dinner, the owner joined us for a final glass of Barbera. “In Piedmont,” he said, “we work like the Germans, have good taste like the French, and love food like the Italians.” Perhaps it was the wine, but his summary seemed to encapsulate the many charms of this alluring corner of Italy. H

HOTELS AT A GL ANCE

Hotel Castello di Sinio A94LIKE The convenient location, comfortable rooms and, most of all, the hospitality and excellent cooking of the delightful owner, Californian Denise Pardini. DISLIKE The canopy of our bed blocked the bedside light, making it difficult to read; the small shower stall. GOOD TO KNOW For a night when you want a simple meal, or don’t feel like driving, an excellent pizzeria, Il Commercio, is located an easy walk from the hotel. SUPERIOR DELUXE ROOM, FROM $220; JUNIOR SUITE, FROM $300. VICOLO DEL CASTELLO 1, SINIO. TEL. (39)

0173-263-889. HOTELCASTELLODISINIO.COM

Relais San Maurizio A96LIKE The comfort and stylish design of the new Suites San Luigi; the fine restaurant and spa. DISLIKE The front desk staff could be more attentive and efficient; charging for the capsules for our espresso machine seemed rather miserly. GOOD TO KNOW Since the spa is very popular, treatments should be booked before you arrive. CLASSIC ROOM, $330; JUNIOR SUITE, $550; SAN LUIGI LUXURY SUITE, $875. LOCALITÀ SAN

MAURIZIO 39, SANTO STEFANO BELBO. TEL. (39) 0141-841-900. RELAISSANMAURIZIO.IT

Villa Tiboldi A92LIKE The lovely setting; the notable restaurant with wines from the surrounding estate. DISLIKE The hotel is understaffed: The front office closes at night, and there is no bar to repair to after dinner. GOOD

TO KNOW To be happy here, you must get a room in the main villa and not in one of the annex buildings. DOUBLE ROOM, FROM $170; JUNIOR SUITE, FROM $220; SUITE, FROM $305. CASE SPARSE TIBOLDI, 127, CANALE.

TEL. (39) 0173-970-388. VILLATIBOLDI.COM

Palazzo Lovera 88LIKE The convenient central location; the friendly service. DISLIKE The steep charge for on-site parking. GOOD TO KNOW This is not a luxury hotel, but rather the best that is available in the historic town of Cuneo. DOUBLE ROOM, FROM $135; JUNIOR SUITE, FROM $180. VIA ROMA 37, CUNEO. TEL. (39) 0171-

690-420. PALAZZOLOVERA.COM

A preceding a rating, denotes an officially recommended hotel. Visit AndrewHarper.com for more information on these and 81 additional recommendations in Italy.

MILAN

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Vatican City

Bern

Ljubljana

Rome

Zagreb

Sarajevo

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I t a l yNational CapitalsAdministrative CapitalsCities 3,000,000+Cities 900,000-2,999,999

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“ I was immediately taken by the beauty of the scene: an impressive cream-colored villa and infinity pool set in an ocean of vineyards. Villa Tiboldi PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER


Great CafésTURIN IS A pleasantly

old-fashioned place where

people still take the time to

enjoy the little pleasures in

life, such as a really superb

cup of coffee at one of the

city’s magnificent cafés.

The grandest of all is

the Caffè San Carlo, a

regal establishment with

gilded mirrors, framed

paintings, marble floors,

a massive chandelier and

suited waiters. It opened

in 1842 and has been

serving superlative

coffee, pastries and

sandwiches since. PIAZZA

SAN CARLO 156.

Nearby, the Caffè Torino

is another grande dame,

with gilded moldings and

huge fireplaces. PIAZZA SAN

CARLO 204.

At Baratti & Milano, the

marble bar and coffered

ceilings date to its opening

in 1858. The specialty

here is bicerin, a hot drink

native to Turin made

of espresso, drinking

chocolate and whole milk

served layered in a small,

rounded glass. PIAZZA

CASTELLO 29.

Easily reached by train from Milan or Rome, it is a refined and walkable place that remains under the radar of most travelers despite its many attractions. Two days are required to visit its excellent museums, including the Museo Egizio, which has the world’s second-largest collection of ancient Egyptian art (after Cairo), and the Galleria Sabauda, which contains the royal art collections amassed by the House of Savoy. These include outstanding paintings by Mantegna, Fra Angelico and Filippino Lippi, among other Italian masters. You may also wish to see the controversial and enigmatic Shroud of Turin, which is kept in the royal chapel of the Cathedral of Saint John the Baptist.

T U R IN WA S T HE C A PI TA L OF T HE DU K ES OF SAVOY FOR CEN T U R IES before Italy became a unified country in 1871, and it has long been a major banking and manufacturing center. Today, it is a visibly wealthy city perhaps best known for its association with the carmaker Fiat.

I prefer to stay at the 120-room Grand Hotel Sitea, a conveniently located and well-run traditional property where rooms are decorated in the classic style that the Italians call signorile, or “lordly and distinguished.” This translates to damask curtains, Empire-style furniture and Brussels carpets. The excellent Carignano Restaurant offers a Piedmont tasting menu as well as international cuisine, while the peaceful American Bar is a haven for cocktails and light meals, including a delicious Piedmont “hamburger” of minced veal.

Elsewhere in Turin, the restaurant not to miss is fabled Del Cambio, which opened in 1757. By 2012, when it was purchased by the investor Michele Denegri, its luster had long faded. A team of restorers, carpenters and upholsterers was hired to rehabilitate its glorious historic dining rooms, with their 19th-century frescoes and gilded boiserie. Chef Matteo Baronetto, who worked for nearly two decades under Milan-based chef Carlo Cracco, presents refined dishes such as hazelnut consommé with steamed shrimp in an elderflower sauce; ravioli with mascarpone cheese, beet, sea urchin and squid; and the local specialty Finanziera (veal sweetbreads).

Those fascinated by the great wines of Piedmont may wish to visit Casa del Barolo, a wine shop and tasting venue that showcases the best Barolos, as well as Nebbiolos and Barberas. H

Turin: An Elegant and Captivating City

FIN E MUSEU MS, ST Y L ISH SHOPS A N D SU PER L AT I V E C U ISIN E

HOTELS AT A GL ANCE

Grand Hotel Sitea A90LIKE The central location, gracious public areas and comfortable accommodations. DISLIKE The room rates are surprisingly steep for the location and the level of luxury provided. GOOD TO KNOW Almost everything you want to see in Turin is a short walk from the hotel. DELUXE DOUBLE ROOM, $370; JUNIOR SUITE, $550. VIA CARLO ALBERTO 35, TURIN. TEL. (39) 011-517-0171. GRANDHOTELSITEA.IT

Monument of Emanuele Filiberto in Piazza San Carlo, our room at the Grand Hotel Sitea, and ravioli and vitello tonnato at Del Cambio PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER

“ Rooms at the Grand Hotel Sitea are decorated in the classic style that the Italians call signorile, or ‘lordly and distinguished.’


Inspiring Architecture

E XC U R SIONS

FRANK LLOYD WRIGHT

lived in the near-west

suburb of Oak Park from

1889 to 1909, and his

home and studio welcome

visitors. He used his house

to experiment with forms

that later appeared in

larger projects, and the

tour of the enchanting

space is well worth the

inconvenience of a trip

out to Oak Park. Don’t

miss Unity Temple nearby,

Wright’s only Prairie-style

church. Constructed

entirely from reinforced

concrete, it is consid-

ered by many architects

to be the world’s first

truly modern building.

Alternatively, head south

to Hyde Park to tour the

Robie House, the height

of Prairie-style residential

architecture. Few of the

Wright-designed original

furnishings remain, but our

guide brought the house to

vivid life. FLWRIGHT.ORG

In addition to walking

tours, the Chicago

Architecture Foundation

conducts tours by bus,

“L” train, bike and even

Segway. But my favorite

is the River Cruise. This

90-minute tour glides

through the heart of

downtown, exploring the

Chicago River’s north

and south branches. Buy

tickets online in advance

for weekends, and expect

temperatures to be about

10 degrees cooler than on

land. ARCHITECTURE.ORG

Conveniently, many top attractions cluster in the Loop, a skyscraper district around which all “L” train lines circle, and the adjacent River North neighborhood, home to the shopping of Michigan Avenue and Oak Street, as well as all of my recommended hotels. It would be possible to enjoy a rewarding vacation without ever leaving these areas. The neoclassical Field Museum of Natural History has an endlessly diverting collection, and the neighboring Shedd Aquarium ranks as the largest indoor aquarium in the world. Families flock to both, making it wise to purchase tickets in advance, especially on weekends. Nearby, the world-class Art Institute of Chicago contains an array of Impressionist masterpieces (including Seurat’s “A Sunday Afternoon on the Island of La Grande Jatte”), plus iconic American works by the likes of Edward Hopper (“Nighthawks”) and Grant Wood (“American Gothic”). A Renzo Piano-designed wing that opened in 2009 added space for a collection of modern pieces, temporary exhibitions and a fine café. A pedestrian bridge

arcs from the Art Institute to Millennium Park with its well-tended gardens, dramatic fountains, Anish Kapoor’s wildly popular “Cloud Gate” sculpture, and a Frank Gehry-designed bandshell. In the summer, it’s bliss to bring a picnic and to listen to a classical concert as the sun sets behind the magnificent skyline.

Despite all of these riches downtown, it would be a shame never to venture into the neighborhoods beyond. To the north, Lincoln Park contains the graceful Conservatory with exotic plants from around the world, as well as the Green City Market, Chicago’s best weekly farmers’ market. Farther on, in Lakeview, devoted baseball fans endure repeated disappointment at historic Wrigley Field, home to the beloved Cubs. And cozy Andersonville draws connoisseurs to its microbrewery, craft distillery and delightful storefront restaurants. To the west, the Loop gives way to a lively nightlife district along Randolph Street, and a little-known gallery district along Grand Avenue. Logan Square has emerged as an unlikely gourmet and craft cocktail

G R AC E F U L LY S E PA R AT E D F ROM L A K E M IC H IG A N BY A N U N BROK E N S T R I NG OF PA R K S ,

beaches, marinas and museums, Chicago is a textbook of 20th-century architecture and one of the country’s loveliest metropolises. Visitors discover a clean, cosmopolitan city with excellent shopping, unique restaurants and a thriving cultural scene. The talented labor pool wasn’t the only reason I chose to open the Andrew Harper Travel Office in Chicago. It’s simply one of my favorite cities in the world.

Chicago’s Enduring Appeal

= Find a full story and photos of the architectural cruise on our website.

View of Chicago Harbor from the Museum Campus

PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER

Find a Chicago slideshow online.

A N IN E X H AUST IBL E W E A LT H OF AT T R AC T IONS


A 10-minute walk south stands the newest addition to Chicago’s luxury hotel scene. The Langham occupies the first 13 floors of a landmark black Mies van der Rohe tower, a former IBM office building on the north bank of the Chicago River. Here, the décor emphasizes clean lines and simple, dramatic forms, enlivened by touches of opulence. In the two-story lobby, for example, a bronze bead curtain surrounds white cubic armchairs, cylindrical floor lamps and an elongated marble bust by Jaume Plensa. Similarly eye-catching contemporary art decorates every public space.

A cheerful greeter showed us to the elevators and directed us to the club floor lounge, an amenity that distinguishes The Langham from competing Chicago properties. Guests who reserve club-level accommodations, set in the highest floors of the hotel, have a private check-in and checkout, as well as access to a complimentary hot breakfast buffet, midday snacks, teatime pastries and finger sandwiches, and evening canapés and cocktails. The lounge proved to be a delightful space in which to relax, with comfortable contemporary couches and armchairs in creams and grays and punctuated by dramatic midcentury modern chandeliers, built-in bookshelves and room dividers. Its view of the river from the 13th floor makes it an ideal place from which to observe events such as the water being dyed bright green for St. Patrick’s Day, and the new Great Chicago Fire Festival, which culminates in the burning of large model buildings floating in the river.

We were escorted to our Executive Club Room one floor below, and were delighted to discover a bright, expansive and thoughtfully designed space, with the floor-to-ceiling windows found throughout the building. Touches of black and olive green accented the neutrals of the exceedingly comfortable

destination. Continuing west, Oak Park contains notable Frank Lloyd Wright architecture, including his former home and studio. And to the south, the gentrifying neighborhoods of Pilsen and Bronzeville lead down to Hyde Park, dominated by the neo-Gothic architecture of The University of Chicago and the immense Beaux Arts Museum of Science and Industry. Fans of “The Devil in the White City,” Erik Larson’s dark best-seller about the 1893 World’s Fair, will no doubt want to stroll along the nearby Midway Plaisance.

T hree of my favorite Chicago hotels, the Four Seasons, The Peninsula and the Waldorf Astoria,

cluster near the northern end of Michigan Avenue. I’ve revisited each of these properties within the last year or two, and I continue to wholeheartedly recommend them. The recently renovated Four Seasons has fine views from most of its rooms and a beautiful new collection of contemporary art in its public spaces. The Peninsula has maintained its immaculate accommodations and glamorous indoor rooftop pool. And the Waldorf Astoria has the same chic ambience and tucked-away location that first drew me to the hotel when it opened in 2012.

CHICAGO HAS a thriving

jazz and blues scene,

anchored by institutions

such as the Jazz Showcase

and the House of Blues.

But one small club in

particular draws me

back time and again. The

Green Mill dates to before

Prohibition. Al Capone

was a regular customer,

and a secret escape tunnel

under the bar reportedly

still exists. The interior

appears unchanged from

the 1920s, making it an

unusually atmospheric

venue for live jazz. I also

come for “The Paper

Machete,” a variety show

akin to a Berlin cabaret

held Saturdays at 3 p.m.

(arrive by 2:30 p.m. to

secure seats). 4802 NORTH

BROADWAY. TEL. (773) 878-5552.

GREENMILLJAZZ.COM

Favorite Club

L I V E MUSIC

“ At The Langham, we were delighted with our Executive Club Room, a bright, expansive and thoughtfully designed space with floor-to-ceiling windows.

PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER


room, which had a love seat, writing desk, armchair and ottoman, in addition to the king bed. Dual vanities done in spectacular Alaskan white granite centerpieced the bath, which provided a soaking tub contained within a large travertine walk-in shower. With the flip of a switch, the glass wall next to the tub would change from cloudy to transparent, providing either privacy or views of downtown Chicago.

A beautifully presented room service lunch arrived within 30 minutes as promised. Another staffer picked up our pressing at the same time as the lunch delivery, so we were only disturbed once. The only occasion service faltered was after dinner, when we were settling into an already turned-down bed. A staffer knocked on the door and asked whether we needed anything else, an unnecessary if well-intentioned gesture that seemed rather intrusive at the time.

Dinner in Travelle, The Langham’s Mediterra-nean main restaurant, was pleasant but inconsistent. The prime river view is allocated to the stylish bar, leaving Travelle overlooking the spiral parking garages of the Marina City towers. Even so, the midcentury décor and low lighting made for a romantic atmo-sphere. Some dishes left us overwhelmed, such as the “Zaatar Tartar” appetizer, an immense portion of tangy beef tartare accompanied by thick slices of toast slathered with bone marrow. But others, like the perfectly cooked lamb chops with carrot-caraway yogurt and sumac-dusted onions, and the sea trout with heirloom sweet potatoes, watermelon radishes, shishito peppers and mustard jus, were memorably delicious.

The Langham has one of the loveliest spas in Chicago, the 22,000-square-foot Chuan, with a range of treatments inspired by traditional Chinese medicine. We didn’t indulge in massages during our stay, but spent a very pleasant couple of hours taking advantage of the saunas, steam rooms and relaxation lounges. Past the well-equipped fitness room, a 67-foot lap pool is illuminated by a constellation of small crystal lights in the ceiling and surrounded by translucent windows and ginkgo-leaf bas reliefs on the walls. Service here, too, was friendly and helpful. Overall, I was left in no doubt that The Langham is well able to compete with the best of Chicago’s luxury hotels.

I have long been in search of a boutique alternative to the city’s larger properties, so on my recent

visit, I also checked into the new Soho House, which opened last September. This 40-room hotel

Chicago’s Cocktail LoungesGIVEN THE CITY’S INFAMOUS HISTORY during Prohibition, it is only appropriate

that Chicago should now have a thriving cocktail bar scene. These options cluster

in the West Loop or River North, within walking distance or a short taxi ride from my

recommended hotels. All maintain decibel levels conducive to relaxed conversation.

1 If you visit one cocktail bar in Chicago, make it The Aviary. Here, chef Grant Achatz,

renowned for his three-star restaurant Alinea, applies the principles of molecular

gastronomy to cocktails. One drink comes inside an egg-shaped piece of ice, which

the guest breaks with a slingshot. My scotch-based cocktail involved a Bunsen burner.

In lesser hands, this pageantry would be mere gimmickry. But the exquisite drinks

never fail to have deep, complex flavors. Appetizers are available, and enthusiasts can

order cocktail flights. Make reservations in advance. 955 WEST FULTON MARKET. NO PHONE.

THEAVIARY.COM

2 In recent years, the Chicago area has experienced a micro-distilling boom, with

companies such as KOVAL, Few and North Shore opening in rapid succession.

CH Distillery is one of the newest. Attached to the downtown distillery is a casual bar and

restaurant, serving expertly crafted cocktails based on CH spirits. I tried some aquavit

neat, which had appealing notes of butterscotch and fennel in addition to the expected

caraway. A “Savant Sour” cocktail mixed the aquavit with sage syrup, lemon, egg white

and bitters to great effect. I also enjoyed the “Bastard’s Bitter,” a bittersweet and citrusy

concoction of CH vanilla rum, CH amaro, honey, bitters and grapefruit oil. Distillery tours

are also available. 564 WEST RANDOLPH STREET. TEL. (312) 707-8780. CHDISTILLERY.COM

3 Located squarely in the middle of the Randolph Street restaurant district, the homey

Maude’s Liquor Bar and restaurant decorated with subway tiles and crystal chan-

deliers draws crowds every night of the week. After securing seats at the bar, we ordered

a rich and complex Boulevardier with rye, Carpano Antica and Campari, and a flawlessly

balanced Aviation, a classic drink of gin, maraschino liqueur, crème de violette and lemon.

Barmen dress the part in natty vests and ties. 840 WEST RANDOLPH STREET. TEL. (312) 243-9712.

MAUDESLIQUORBAR.COM

4 Across the street from the Soho House you will find RM Champagne Salon. RM (an

acronym for “Récoltant-Manipulant,” designating a grower Champagne) has atmo-

spheric outdoor seating in a festive alley strung with lights. Inside, a Left Bank-inspired

space glows with candles and a woodburning fireplace. We arrived early on a Friday for

an apéritif and had no trouble securing a table. My elegant flute of Thiénot Brut Rosé was

redolent of berries, and Mrs. Harper’s “Le Drapage” cocktail of Prosecco, gin, blueberry

syrup, lime and mint tasted delightfully fresh and herbaceous. Try the decadent lobster

deviled eggs. 116 NORTH GREEN STREET. TEL. (312) 243-1199. RMCHAMPAGNESALON.COM

5 The stylish and popular Sable Kitchen & Bar occupies the ground floor of the Hotel

Palomar in the heart of River North. Two wall-mounted televisions mar the otherwise

sleek design, but few other bars in the vicinity can compete with Sable’s extensive list of

expertly prepared cocktails. The “Park Slope,” made with rye, Cynar, Cocchi Americano,

maraschino liqueur and orange bitters, tasted smooth and deep, with bittersweet flavors

accented with cinnamon. And the “War of the Roses,” a cocktail of Pimm’s, gin, lime juice,

elderflower syrup, mint and bitters, was fresh and citrusy with a deliciously bitter finish.

505 NORTH STATE STREET. TEL. (312) 755-9704. SABLECHICAGO.COM

“Savant Sour” at CH Distillery, and interior of the RM Champagne Salon PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER


New Dining Discoveries

Asparagus gelato atop Spanish cured tuna, and “Flavors of the Sea” with prawn, sea urchin, trout roe and razor-clam froth at 42 grams PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER

and private club occupies a converted early 20th-century belt factory in the heart of the leading restaurant district. (Favorites such as Girl & the Goat, The Publican, Next, Sepia, avec and Blackbird are all within easy walking distance.) The warehouse setting gives guest rooms and public spaces high ceilings and broad expanses of window. The property’s cozy décor is an unorthodox but successful mix of midcentury modern and steampunk. This eclectic style fits with the Soho House’s mission, which, according to its website, aims to “assemble communities of members that have something in common: namely, a creative soul.” Business attire is discouraged, and the club lounge is populated largely by 30- and 40-somethings engrossed in their MacBooks.

Nevertheless, my initial impressions were positive. I quite enjoyed catching up on some reading in the large and comfortable club lounge, decorated with reclaimed wood floors, eclectic armchairs, midcentury light fixtures, Danish modern tables, a woodburning fireplace and an undulating green banquette. Our 600-square-foot Big Bedroom, the largest category in the hotel, came with a huge crystal chandelier and carefully selected furnishings that mixed late 19th-century and midcentury styles. I especially liked the bath, with its large round ottoman flanked by a chrome-legged dual marble vanity and

“ The décor in the Soho House is an unorthodox but successful mix of midcentury modern and steampunk.

WHENEVER I RETURN TO CHICAGO, it is always difficult to narrow the list of new

restaurants I’d like to try. These four presented the most memorable meals of my visit.

All of my favorites are indicated in red on the map opposite.

42 grams This tiny BYOB restaurant hidden in an unpromising northside neighbor-

hood was once easy to reserve. But that has changed with the acquisition of two Michelin

stars. Tickets purchased through the website include the tasting menu, tax and tip, as

well as seats at either a 10-person communal table or a counter facing the open kitchen

(our preference). The restaurant started “underground” in chef Jake Bickelhaupt’s apart-

ment, and it still feels like a dinner party, with Bickelhaupt’s wife acting as hostess and

master of ceremonies. Almost all 13 courses on the menu dazzled. A wildly creative dish

of asparagus gelato, salt-cured tuna, sea buckthorn cream, wood sorrel and apricot

kernels created fireworks of flavor, as did courses such as sous-vide egg yolk with ramps,

amaranth and chanterelles, and triple-seared Miyazaki wagyu beef with baby bok choy,

Japanese pickled plums and rich crumbs of dehydrated beef tendon and marrow. This

restaurant is well worth the taxi ride. Reserve far in advance. 4662 NORTH BROADWAY.

TEL. (312) 371-6589. 42GRAMSCHICAGO.COM

Bavette’s Chicago has no shortage of fine steakhouses, but the candlelit atmosphere

of Bavette’s makes it far more appropriate for couples than for businessmen. We had a

wonderfully decadent dinner of cognac-infused foie gras with a tart blackberry compote,

rich and garlicky shrimp de Jonghe, tender lamb T-bone with rosemary and garlic, and

flawless filet mignon with savory roasted tomatoes and spicy watercress. Our side

dishes of creamy elote-inspired corn and flavorful roasted butternut squash with sage

proved equally delicious. Other Chicago steakhouses serve comparable or perhaps even

better beef, but none is as romantic as Bavette’s. 218 WEST KINZIE STREET. TEL. (312) 624-8154.

BAVETTESCHICAGO.COM

Bohemian House Located just off the most touristy stretch of Michigan Avenue, this

new Central European restaurant has no business being so warm, stylish and well-priced.

Downtown offers no better place to ward off the winter chill. Pierogi came filled with delec-

table shredded beef, and a salad of orange and purple cauliflower achieved remarkable

complexity with a poached egg, watermelon radish slices and crunchy chicken skin. Mrs.

Harper’s pork schnitzel was simple but satisfying, and my crisp “Czech Roast Duck” confit

was accompanied by brandied prunes and delicately bitter turnips. A caramelly Praga

Dark beer paired perfectly with this hearty but balanced cuisine. 11 WEST ILLINOIS STREET.

TEL. (312) 955-0439. BOHOCHICAGO.COM

Brindille As a new formal French restaurant, Brindille swims directly against the

currents of culinary fashion. Inside the tranquil storefront, tables of well-dressed couples

engage in hushed conversation beneath backlit photos of leafless trees. The food tends to

be unfussy but beautifully presented, and the menu encourages the traditional appetizer-

main-dessert progression. My perfectly cooked sweetbreads came with a flavorful combi-

nation of baby beets and horseradish, while the Dover sole meunière was delicate and

buttery. A list of superb wines by the glass includes unusual selections such as an ethereal

Trousseau Gris from the Jura. Everything is very expensive, but the quality is uniformly

high. 534 NORTH CLARK STREET. TEL. (312) 595-1616. BRINDILLE-CHICAGO.COM

Detail of the Drawing Room, above, and our 600-square-foot Big Bedroom at the Soho House

BEDROOM PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER


© 2011 GEOATLAS.com

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North Pond

HOTELS AT A GL ANCE

The Langham A94LIKE The relaxing club floor lounge; the immaculate spa; the stylish décor; the cheery and anticipatory service. DISLIKE The inconsistent cuisine in the Travelle restaurant. GOOD TO KNOW My other recom-mended hotels are closer to the best shopping, but The Langham is nearer to better restaurants. CLUB

KING ROOM, $815; CLUB EXECUTIVE SUITE, $965. 330 NORTH WABASH AVENUE. TEL. (312) 923-9988. CHICAGO.

LANGHAMHOTELS.COM

Soho House 89LIKE The skyline-view rooftop pool; the location; the price. DISLIKE The casual and inexpert service. GOOD TO KNOW Though we saw guests in their 50s and 60s, the property is chiefly geared toward younger “creative” patrons. MEDIUM PLUS BEDROOM, $440; BIG BEDROOM, $520. 113-125 NORTH GREEN STREET.

TEL. (312) 521-8000. SOHOHOUSECHICAGO.COM

A preceding a rating, denotes an officially recommended hotel. Visit AndrewHarper.com for more information on all of my recommended hotels in Chicago.

a freestanding tub. In the spacious shower stall trimmed in brown glass subway tiles, we discovered no fewer than nine body washes, shampoos and conditioners from the Cowshed Spa on the ground floor. The gym, however, ventures into kitsch. With a leather-roped boxing ring, leather medicine balls and leather-clad pommel horse among other workout equipment, it seems better suited to Edwardian pugilists than to contemporary fitness buffs.

Alas, the service failed to meet expectations, and the staff’s friendliness became irritatingly casual at times. In the Italian grill, I enjoyed my kale salad and fresh salmon fillet with sofrito and cannellini beans, but the waitress addressed me throughout as “dear” and “darling.” In the more formal Tavern Restaurant, the waiters wear white coats and bow ties, but somehow their attire seemed more a costume than a uniform. The staff behave as though they are actors in a play about a smart hotel, rather than people actually working in one. Young-at-heart guests who wish to be in the thick of the West Randolph Street restaurant district might enjoy the Soho House, but most Harper subscribers will be happier at one of my recommendations in River North. The Langham, The Peninsula, the Four Seasons and the Waldorf Astoria may cost more, but the additional expense is entirely justified. H

High-Profile Restaurants ReassessedIN CHICAGO, I RETURNED TO TWO FAVORITE RESTAURANTS. Regrettably, their

current performances did not live up to my fond memories, or to their Michelin stars.

moto I loved the high-flying molecular cuisine of moto when it opened 10 years ago, and

the fact that it has maintained its star gave me hope that it had aged gracefully. It has

not. Some of our eight courses were successful, but most were uninventive, and a few

were quite disagreeable. moto used to be in the vanguard, but its creative energy is clearly

exhausted. 945 WEST FULTON MARKET. TEL. (312) 491-0058. MOTORESTAURANT.COM

North Pond This Prairie-style restaurant has an unparalleled setting on the bank of

North Pond in Lincoln Park. However, on this visit, the food was surprisingly inconsistent.

Our appetizers were balanced and complex, but the pheasant I ordered was tough. The

misconceived dessert — a dry stout beer cake with tart cranberries, maple-poached pear

and burned candied walnuts — failed on all counts. In the end, North Pond’s warm and

accommodating service somewhat redeemed its culinary missteps. 2610 NORTH CANNON

DRIVE. TEL. (773) 477-5845. NORTHPONDRESTAURANT.COM

1 The Peninsula

2 Four Seasons

3 Waldorf Astoria

4 The Langham

5 Soho House

DOWNTOWNCHICAGO

L A ST WOR D

WHEN MEETING or corre-

sponding with subscribers,

I am frequently taken aback

by how many do not fully

appreciate the range of

services offered by our

Travel Office. People ask me,

“So what can you guys do

that Travel Agent B can’t?”

In reply, I always emphasize

the extremely personal

nature of the service we

provide. Many subscribers

establish enduring relation-

ships with individual travel

advisors, who, henceforth,

handle everything for

them — consulting regional

specialists when necessary.

We are also at pains to

ensure that Travel Office

staff stay in my recom-

mended properties as often

as possible. And I brief

advisors personally when I

return from trips. As a result,

their understanding of the

expected luxury hotel stan-

dards is unequaled. We know

what our customers want. Of

course, we are not compla-

cent and constantly strive

to improve. Travel Office

staff participate in some

form of training — seminar,

webinar or hotel presenta-

tion — at least once a week.

I have also found that some

subscribers are under the

impression that we reserve

only hotels. In fact, we can

also book air tickets, cruises

and land arrangements.

Unquestionably, we do the

best job when you entrust

us with your entire itinerary.

And to provide expertise

everywhere in the world, we

partner with 580 hotels and

destination specialists in

more than 80 countries. So

if you have never used our

Travel Office, I hope that you

will give us an opportunity to

demonstrate our unrivaled

capabilities.

Travel Office Services

L A ST LO OKPanna cotta with fruit

leather at Piazza Duomo in Alba, Italy

PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER

View a slideshow online of our memorable

meals in Piedmont.

New and Noteworthy

Townhouse in TellurideOne of my favorite retreats

in the Rockies, Dunton Hot

Springs, is separated from

the picturesque former

mining town of Telluride by

the splendor of 14,252-foot

Mount Wilson. The resort

is set in a meticulously

restored ghost town dating

from 1885. In 2013, Dunton

River Camp, a luxury tented

camp, opened on nearby

Cresto Ranch. This year will

see the debut of Dunton

Town House, a luxurious

five-room bed-and-break-

fast in Telluride itself. In

summer, when the skiers

have gone home, Telluride

is still a colorful and vibrant

place. I look forward to

spending a couple of days

in town, trying out the

new restaurants, before

heading down to Dunton

Hot Springs to pester the

trout on the West Fork of

the Dolores River.

Ship Debuts From SeabournSo many new cruise ships

are behemoths, designed

to carry thousands of

passengers, that it is a

pleasure to report the

impending launch of a

smaller vessel. In 2013,

I had the pleasure of

taking a Mediterranean

cruise aboard the

208-passenger Seabourn

Legend. The Seattle-

based line’s new ship,

the Seabourn Encore, is

scheduled to undertake

her maiden voyage in

2016. Although consider-

ably larger, with verandah

suites for 604 travelers,

the Encore is still suffi-

ciently modest in scale to

be categorized as a “small

ship.” The vessel’s interior

is the work of legendary

designer Adam D. Tihany.

A sister ship, the Seabourn

Ovation, is expected to

debut in spring 2018.

Villa Stéphanie at Brenners ParkMost upscale hotels and

resorts now consider a spa

to be a standard amenity.

Scarcely a day goes by

without a new one opening

somewhere, but most

excite only the merest

flicker of interest. However,

the new Villa Stéphanie,

which debuted in January

at Brenners Park-Hotel &

Spa, falls into an entirely

different category. Built

in 1890, the mansion is

located on Baden-Baden’s

famous Lichtentaler Allee.

Accommodations comprise

12 rooms and three suites,

while the 54,000-square-

foot spa complex, spread

over five floors, will

operate in partnership

with the French cosmetics

company Sisley. For once, a

hotel’s self-assessment —

“Europe’s finest destination

spa” — may well prove to be

entirely accurate.

New Boulders Camp at WolwedansI can think of few, if any,

more spectacular places in

the world than Namibia’s

NamibRand Nature

Reserve. The constantly

changing desert landscape

provides epic panoramas

of otherworldly beauty. I

have long recommended

the Dunes Lodge at

Wolwedans. Now, the

property’s new Boulders

Camp offers an even

higher level of comfort

and exclusivity. Backed

by enormous granite

boulders, the camp sleeps

a maximum of eight guests

in four enormous tents.

Aside from scenic drives,

Boulders specializes in

walking safaris along

trails of immemorial

antiquity that were

established by the area’s

indigenous people, the San

(Bushmen).

Free of hotel advertising since its inception in June 1979, Andrew Harper’s Hideaway Report® (ISSN 0884-7622) is a private publication for sophisticated travelers. The selection of hotels and restaurants for inclusion is made on a completely independent basis, with Andrew Harper, LLC paying full rate for all meals, lodging and related travel expenses. The Hideaway Report is published monthly by Andrew Harper at 1601 Rio Grande St., Suite 410, Austin, TX 78701. Periodicals Postage is paid at Austin, TX, and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to: Andrew Harper, P.O. Box 684368, Austin, TX 78768. Tel. (866) 831-4314 or (512) 904-7342. Fax (512) 904-7350. Copyright 2015 Andrew Harper, LLC. CST #2110806-40; IST #1096; WST #603248672. All rights reserved. Quotation, reproduction or transmission by any means is prohibited without written permission from the publisher.

Editor-in-Chief Andrew Harper Art Director Kristina Mitchell Photo Editor Kelly Zhu Illustrator Melissa Colson

Discover More at AndrewHarper.com Find additional stories, my trip videos and more photography throughout the month on our website. Look for these symbols in this print edition, then visit The Hideaway Report at AndrewHarper.com. = slideshow = video = additional stories

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