manufacturing specification for belt waist, belt shoulder … 5453 iss 05... · 2019. 6. 18. ·...

UK/SC/5453 Issue 05 04 December 2008

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Manufacturing Specification for BELT WAIST, BELT SHOULDER AND FROG SWORD

(SAM BROWNE) VARIOUS

Defence Clothing Integrated Project Team

PROPERTY OF :- DEFENCE CLOTHING

INTEGRATED PROJECT TEAM DE&S Caversfield

Skimmingdish Lane Bicester

Oxon OX27 8TS


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PREFACE

TABLE 1 – THE PRODUCT LIST

Item Name Belt Waist, Belt Shoulder and Frog Sword (Sam Browne) various

Development File No. DCIPT/CST/NR/47/07 Product Support File No.

NATO Stock No(s) Description Pattern No (s)

8465-99-428-7225 to 7231 BELT SHOULDER NO 1 MALE & FEMALE BROWN WITH BRASS FITTINGS 26192A

8465-99-428-7232 to 7238 BELT WAIST NO 1 MALE BROWN WITH BRASS FITTINGS 26193A

8465-99-562-5569 to 5576 BELT WAIST NO 1 FEMALE BROWN WITH BRASS FITTINGS D00086

8465-99-973-6433 FROG SWORD BROWN WITH BRASS FITTINGS 25593A

8465-99-973-6575 FROG SWORD BLACK WITH BRASS FITTINGS 28082

8465-99-973-6925 to 6929 BELT SHOULDER NO 3 BLACK WITH BRASS FITTINGS

28256A

8465-99-973-6946 to 6950 BELT WAIST NO 3 BLACK WITH BRASS FITTINGS

26223A

*Any colour shown in this document is for representation and must not be used

for colour matching.


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IPR STATEMENT

This specification contains information which is proprietary to the Secretary of State for Defence and shall remain the property of the Secretary of State. It is issued in strict confidence and must not be seen by any unauthorised person. The specification is supplied solely for the purpose of Information/Tender/Contract and shall not be copied or reproduced or used for any other purpose whatsoever without the express prior written permission of the Secretary of State as represented by the Intellectual property rights group. Technical documents in this specification refer to the edition current at the date

of tender or contract unless otherwise stated.

CROWN COPYRIGHT RESERVED


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TABLE 2 - ISSUE RECORD

Issue No Comments Issue Date 5 • Rationalisation and grading of the size

ranges.

• Frog Sword added

• NSNs range 8465-99-428-7239 to 7244 is obsolete and has been removed from the specification.

• NSNs range 8465-99-973-6918 to 6922 is obsolete and has been removed from the specification.

04 December 2008

4 • Reformatted

• Modification to belt clip

• Female range of waist belts added

22 October 2003

3 27 November 2001


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PART 1 1. THE PRODUCT

a. Use of the product

This specification describes the requirement for both male and female belts waist, belts shoulder and frogs sword (Sam Browne) made from leather. For use by various Regiments and Corps with No 1 and No 2 Dress uniforms as part of their parade wear. Figure 1 shows the products in normal day to day use.

FIGURE 1


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TABLE 3 – RELATED SPECIFICATIONS AND DOCUMENTS

Specification / Document Detail

BS EN ISO 105

Part X12

Part E04

Textiles-Test for colour fastness

Colour fastness to rubbing

Colour fastness to perspiration

BS EN ISO 3378 Leather. Physical and mechanical tests. Determination of resistance to grain cracking and grain crack index

BS EN 12590 Specification for industrial sewing threads wholly or partly made from synthetic fibres

BS 2780 Glossary of leather terms

BS 3870 Parts 1 & 2 Stitches and seams

UK/SC/5126 Insignia, Buttons, Pins, plates & Titles manufactured from Gilding Metal, Brass and Nickel Silver

UK/SC/5699 Specification for leather vegetable tanned various

2. PATTERNS

a. Master Patterns. The DC IPT at Caversfield holds a Master Pattern for this product. Potential contractors may view the pattern on site by arrangement with the DC IPT Commercial Department.

b. Standard Patterns. A Standard Pattern may be obtained from the DC IPT Technical Information Office and may be used to provide the criteria for all materials, components and manufacturing features not fully defined in this specification.


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PART 2 3. PRODUCT DESIGN

a. The product design is to follow the specification with the patterns to guide for all aspects not covered within this specification. Figure 2 shows a schematic of the belt waist, belt shoulder and frog sword assembled.

FIGURE 2


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4. PRODUCT COMPONENTS TABLE 4 – PRODUCT COMPONENTS 4.1 Main Material • Leather, cattlehide with fine haircell finish as standard

pattern.

• The appearance of the grain is to be as standard pattern. There is to be no looseness of grain (pipeness) when tested to BS EN ISO 3378 the leather is to have a minimum crack index of 15.

• To comply with UK/SC/5699 for Type B leathers for dressed grain split

• Colour to be that of the standard pattern. Colour fastness to meet the requirements of Section 8.

• Thickness:-

• 0.3cm for shoulder belt, waist belt and main body of frog

• 0.25cm for shoulder belt loops; waist belt loops and tongue; frog loops and straps

• 0.2cm for frog retaining strap for ring and waist belt retaining straps for rings

• Or an alternative approved by DC IPT

4.2 Lining • Leather, pigskin, vegetable tanned, colour hazel with a glazed finish of good quality, free from defects

• Thickness 0.1cm-0.13cm

4.3 Sewing thread • Polyester/cotton threads corespun to Table 5 of BS EN 12590. Metric Ticket No. 20.

• To match belt colour

• Or an alternative approved by the DC IPT

4.4 Metal fittings general

• Self coloured, solid brass as detailed by standard pattern.

• To conform to UK/SC/5126

• The items are to be free of cracks and visible defects.

• Design to match standard pattern


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TABLE 4 – PRODUCT COMPONENTS continued 4.5 Buckles Male Waist Belt

• Oblong, rounded corners, two prong with clip retaining bar

• 3.8cm wide x 6.6cm long

Female Waist belt

• Oblong, rounded corners, two prong with clip retaining bar

• 3.75cm wide x 6.05cm long Shoulder Strap

• Oblong with rounded corners, one prong

• 1.5cm wide x 3.4cm long Frog Strap

• Square with rounded corners, one prong

• 2.6cm x 2.6cm

4.6 D Rings Waist Belt

• 3.3cm wide x 1.9cm depth Frog

• 2.2cm wide x 1.3cm depth

4.7 Obtuse angle rings

Waist Belt

• 2.8cm wide x 1.8cm depth x 1.4cm depth

4.8 Studs Waist Belt, Shoulder Strap & Frog

• 1.1cm High; Diameter varies top to bottom 0.88cm, 0.52cm, 1.1cm

4.9 Rivets Waist Belt

• Split pin rivet

• 0.7cm

4.10 Clip Waist Belt

• 4.5cm long with 1.9cm turn back x 2cm wide

4.11 Sword hook Waist Belt

• 3.8cm long with 3.3cm turn back


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5. PRODUCT CONSTRUCTION

SEAMS AND STITCHING to BS 3870

• All stitching to be machine stitch type 301 or hand stitch type 201 • To have at least 5 but no more than 6 stitches per 2cm and to be correctly tensioned

General Requirements

• All punch holes measurements are to be to the centre of the eye • Sewing thread may be treated with a stain free lubricant. • The belts are to be free from all loose threads ends and be delivered in a clean

condition. • All ends of stitching are to be back tacked, the ends to be drawn through and

securely tied or overrun stitched by a minimum of four stitches. • Leather point needles are to be used for the all sewing. • All turnbacks, belt loops and tongues are to be skived to produce a flat, neat finish. • The edges of the belts, shoulder strap and attachments are to be edge tooled on the

front top and bottom and be dye fast to match the leather. • The edges are to be embossed on the topside of the belt, shoulder strap and

attachments with a line 0.3cm from the edge as on the Standard Pattern. The following seam types are referenced in this specification

1.01.01

PART DETAIL

BELT

• Belt with attached tongue • Buckle and clip fastening and stud • Obtuse angle rings for frog

attachment • “D” rings for shoulder belt

attachment • Sword clip • One slider


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5. PRODUCT CONSTRUCTION continued

MAIN WAIST BELT SECTION

Length from curve of clip to Centred around sword clip Middle pair of

adjustment holes End of stitch

pattern Centre of sword

clip

Middle pair of adjustment holes

to end of point Length, centre to centre, of D rings

Length, centre to centre, of Obtuse angles

A B C D E F Size

Inches Cm Inches Cm Inches Cm Inches Cm Inches Cm Inches Cm 0 26 66 15½ 39.4 7 17.8 6¾ 17.2 6¾ 17.2 7 17.8 1 29 73.7 16½ 41.9 7½ 19.1 7¼ 18.5 7¾ 19.7 7½ 19.1 2 32 81.3 17½ 44.5 8½ 21.6 7¾ 19.7 7¾ 19.7 8 20.3 3 35 88.9 18½ 47 9 22.9 8½ 21.6 8 20.3 8¾ 22.2 4 38 96.5 19½ 49.5 9½ 24.1 8¾ 22.2 8½ 21.6 9½ 24.1 5 41 104.1 20½ 52.1 10 25.4 9 22.7 8½ 21.6 10¼ 26 6 44 111.8 22 55.9 10½ 26.7 9½ 24.1 9 22.9 11¼ 29.2

Tol± ¼ 0.6 ¹/16 0.2 ¹/16 0.2 ¹/16 0.2 ¹/16 0.2 ¹/16 0.2 All measurements are in inches and centimetres. Belt laid flat


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SLIDER

• Slider 1.5cm wide • Total length 18cm for male belt and 16.5cm for

female belt • Formed with a 3.5cm overlap for male belt and 3cm

for female belt • Securely stitched together with two rows of stitching• Positioned between stud and sword hook • Should be capable of overriding the sword hook

ADJUSTMENT HOLES AND BUTTONHOLES

• End of the belt is to be shaped as the standard

pattern Adjustment holes • Five pairs of adjustment holes are to be worked in

the end of the belt • Holes to be 0.5cm in diameter • Middle pair, 2.5cm (1”) apart, positioned as Size

schedule “D” • Positioned centrally in the width of the belt • Other pairs positioned 2.5cm (1”) apart and in

alignment • Two pronged buckle to be fitted into the middle pair Buttonholes • Five buttonholes 1.8cm long, with a 0.6cm eye are

to worked in the end of the belt • 1st positioned 3cm (1¼”) from the end and centrally • Other four to be positioned in alignment and 2.5cm

(1”) apart


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• A curve brass clip, fashioned as the standard pattern, is to be securely attached, centrally to the end of the belt with 3 split rivets. The clip attaches to the back of the buckle when the belt is fastened

• A shaped tongue to be securely attached to the end of the belt to cover the rivets

• The tongue is to be skived at end to create flat neat finish

• The tongue is to be size and positioned as follows:-

Length of

tongue H

Width of tongue at

widest part J

Length of tongue to

show K

Female All sizes 8.9cm 7.2cm 3cm

Sizes 1 & 2 11.5cm 8cm 4.5cm

Sizes 3-6 13cm 8cm 4.5cm

• A stud is to be securely attached centrally to the belt

• NOTE - With the buckle on the middle set of adjustment holes the centre button hole should fit over the stud as the belt is normally worn (i.e. curved around the waist)

• Positioned as follows:-

Size From end of clip to stud L

0 8.9cm (3½”)

1 10.2cm (4”)

2 11.4cm (4½”)

3 13.3cm (5¼”)

4 14cm (5½”)

5 15.2cm (6”)

6 15.9cm (6¼”)

TONGUE AND CLIP

• Stitching to be as standard pattern • Sword clip to securely attached centrally to the belt • Positioned as stated in Section 4 “C”


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5. PRODUCT CONSTRUCTION continued D AND OBTUSE ANGLE RINGS

D rings • Two D rings are to be fitted to the top of the belt• Positioned as measurement in Section 4 “E”,

centre on the sword clip position • Attached with a retaining strap 6.6cm long x

2.5cm wide • Retaining straps to be attached using a split pin • Split pin positioned to allow the two rows of

stitching to catch the strap in • Retaining strap ends to be skived to create a

flat neat finish Obtuse angle rings • Two obtuse angled rings are to be fitted to the

bottom of the belt • Direction of ring as diagram • Positioned as measurement in Section 4 “F”,

centre on the sword clip position • Attached with a retaining strap 6.6cm long x

2.2cm wide • Retaining straps to be attached using a split pin • Split pin positioned to allow the two rows of

stitching to catch the strap in • Retaining strap ends to be skived to create a

flat neat finish


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LINING

• Reinforcement lining is to sewn to the back of

the belt • Stitching pattern to be as standard pattern • Final point of stitching as Section 4 “B” • Lining to be cut and trimmed to follow the line of

the stitching as on standard pattern. • Lining should under lap the tongue by 1cm


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MAIN SHOULDER BELT PART

Size Length on the curve from middle adjustment hole to centre of stud

G

Inches Cm

1 22½ 57.2

2 25½ 64.8

3 28½ 72.4

4 31½ 80

5 34½ 87.6

6 37½ 95.3

Tol± ¼ 0.6

All measurements are in inches and centimetres. Belt laid flat


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PART DETAILS

SHOULDER BELT

• A curved, radius as per standard pattern,

shoulder belt in two parts with attached billets • First part is a curved length of leather with

adjustment holes, a fixed billet and a stud. • Second piece of leather, continuing the curve,

has a buckle attachment with one fixed slider and one free slider, a fixed billet and a stud

POINTED END

• Curved pointed end shaped as standard pattern• 3.5cm wide at shoulder tapering to 2.5cm • Total length from shoulder to point 23cm • Seven 0.4cm wide adjustment holes to be

punched in the end • Middle adjustment hole to be punched 11cm

from end • Remaining holes spaced 2cm apart

ROUNDED END

• Stud to be fitted to the rounded end • Positioned 1.8cm from end • Billet shaped as standard pattern • 13cm long • Positioned centrally over stud with a single

circle of stitching, underside uppermost • One buttonhole 2.5cm long, with a 0.6cm eye

are to worked in the end of the billet • Centre of eye 3.5cm from billet end


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BUCKLE END

• Buckle end shaped as the standard pattern • Tapering to 2.5cm • Length 16.5cm with 3cm turned over top • A crew punched through the top 1.5cm long by

0.3cm wide • Buckle with prong fitted into the turn over,

prong going through the crew • Two loops 1.2cm wide, 9cm long with 1cm

overlap • One fixed in the turn over, one free running on

the strap • Stud to be fitted to the rounded end • Positioned 1.8cm from end • Billet shaped as standard pattern • 13cm long • Positioned centrally over stud with a single

circle of stitching, underside uppermost • One buttonhole 2.5cm long, with a 0.6cm eye

are to worked in the end of the billet • Centre of eye 3.5cm from billet end


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PART DETAILS

FROG

• Sword holder • Two straps with buckles fastening • Two free running sliders • D ring

STRAPS

Short strap Long strap

Short strap • Short strap shaped as standard pattern • Width 1.8cm • Length 21cm with 3.5cm turn over top • A crew punched through the top1cm long and

0.3cm wide • Buckle with prong fitted into the turn over,

prong going through the crew • One loop 1.2cm wide, 8cm long with 1cm

overlap, free running Long strap • Long strap shaped as standard pattern • Width 1.8cm • Length 46cm • Five 0.4cm wide adjustment holes to be

punched in the end • 1st adjustment hole to be punched 8cm from

end • Remaining holes spaced 1.5cm apart • One loop 1.2cm wide, 8cm long with 1cm

overlap, free running


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SWORD HOLDER

Back

Front

Back • Back shaped as standard pattern • 7cm wide at bottom, 8.5cm wide at top • Length 8.5cm • Long straps to be fitted to the back as standard

pattern • Cross over point 3cm from top • D ring attached to the back, retaining loop

finished length 2cm Front • Front shaped as standard pattern • 7cm wide at bottom, 8.5cm wide at top • Length 8.5cm • Short straps to be fitted to the back as standard

pattern • Cross over point 3cm from top • Stud fitted centrally over join • Front and back stitched together, down the

sides with boxed stitching


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6. GARMENT LABELLING REQUIREMENTS

a. Identification labelling of each item Information and format is to be as follows

For Stock Sizes NATO Stock Number, Size, Contract Number, and year. Clearly printed on the underside of the leather, marked in indelible black ink For Special Measure NATO Stock Number, Size, Contract Number, and year, wearers name. Clearly printed on the underside of the leather, marked in indelible black ink

b. Swing Ticket A white swing ticket, marked in indelible black ink, is to be attached to each individual item. The ticket is to read as follows:

SPECIMEN LABEL

c. Manufacturer Information Under no circumstances should the contractor’s name, logo or trademark appear on any form of labelling

NO ADDITIONAL POLISH TO BE APPLIED UNTIL NATURAL OILS HAVE BEEN POLISHED OUT OF THE SURFACE WITH A SOFT CLOTH DO NOT FOLD. STORE FLAT OR CURLED DO NOT USE BRUSH TO POLISH


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7. PACKAGING AND LABELLING REQUIREMENTS

a. All individual items should be packed in suitably sealed clear polythene

bags, and clearly labelled with the Item Description, NSN, Contract Number, Quantity and Denomination.

SPECIMEN LABEL

b. Individually packed items that are to be boxed together should be packaged and labelled in accordance with the details laid down in the contract.

8. COLOUR FASTNESS REQUIREMENTS

Minimum ratings unless otherwise stated in the tender or contract

Method of Test - BS EN ISO 105

No of sides - 2 - per production batch of 600 sides

Part E04 Part X12

Staining (cotton) Dry (1024 Revs) Wet (65 Revs)

Grain Flesh Grain Pad Grain Pad

2 2 3 3 3 2

Item Description: NSN Contract Number Quantity Denomination


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9. SCHEDULE OF NATO STOCK NUMBERS AND MEASUREMENTS

Belt length (effective*) Pattern No.

NATO Stock No. 8465-99-

cm inches

SizeNo.

Description

428-7225 72 - 85 (28½ - 33¼) 1 428-7226 80 - 92 (31½ - 36¼) 2 428-7227 88 - 100 (34½ - 39¼) 3 428-7228 95 - 107 (37½ - 42¼) 4 428-7229 103 - 115 (40½ - 45¼) 5 428-7230 111 - 123 (43½ - 48¼) 6

26192A

428-7231 Special measure

No.1 – Male & Female, Sam Browne Belt Shoulder Brown with brass fittings

428-7232 69 - 79 (27 - 31) 1 428-7233 76 - 86 (30 - 34) 2 428-7234 84 - 94 (33 - 37) 3 428-7235 91 - 102 (36 - 40) 4 428-7236 99 - 109 (39 - 43) 5 428-7237 107 - 117 (42 - 46) 6

26193A


No.1 – Male, Sam Browne Belt, Waist Brown with brass fittings

562-5569 61 - 71 (24 - 28) 0 562-5570 69 - 79 (27 - 31) 1 562-5571 76 - 86 (30 - 34) 2 562-5572 84 - 94 (33 - 37) 3 562-5573 91 - 102 (36 - 40) 4 562-5574 99 - 109 (39 - 43) 5 562-5575 107 - 117 (42 - 46) 6

D00086


No.1 - Female, Sam Browne Belt, Waist Brown with brass fittings


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SCHEDULE OF NATO STOCK NUMBERS AND MEASUREMENTS Continued

Belt length (effective*) Pattern No.

NATO Stock No. 8465-99-

cm inches

SizeNo.

Description

973-6925 80 - 92 (31½ - 36¼) 2 973-6926 88 - 100 (34½ - 39¼) 3 973-6927 95 - 107 (37½ - 42¼) 4 973-6928 103 - 115 (40½ - 45¼) 5

28256A

973-6929 111 - 123 (43½ - 48¼) 6

No.3 – Sam Browne, Belt Shoulder, Black with brass fittings

973-6946 76 - 86 (30 - 34) 2 973-6947 84 - 94 (33 - 37) 3 973-6948 91 - 102 (36 - 40) 4 973-6949 99 - 109 (39 - 43) 5

26223A

973-6950 107 - 117 (42 - 46) 6

No.3 – Male, Sam Browne Belt Waist, Black with brass fittings

25593A 973-6433 n/a n/a n/a Frog Sword Brown with brass fittings

28082 973-6575 n/a n/a n/a Frog Sword Black with brass fittings

* The first measurement is to be taken from the first hole, and the second measurement taken from the last hole

• The tolerance for measurements: below 10cm ± 0.1cm and above 10cm ± 0.2cm


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10. PHOTOGRAPHIC SHEETS

a. The following section contains photographic.

b. Relevant Standard Patterns are to be used to govern shade, all shades depicted on data sheets and photographs are for guidance only.

c. Any pattern suffixed with TG is a pattern To Guide for manufacture for a

range of a similar design. Data Sheets may also reflect that a single sized pattern is to guide for a range NSNs of similar design.


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Specification No. DC/MS/5453

Item Description BELT SHOULDER NO 1 MALE AND FEMALE BROWN WITH BRASS FITTINGS

Pattern No. 26192A (To Guide for whole NSN range)

NATO Stock No. 8465-99-428-7225 to 7231

Scope:

Shoulder belt, male and female worn by various Regiments and Corps with No 1 & No 2 Dress, Male & Female. Provided in 6 sizes and a special measure. Size 4 pictured below.

NATO Stock No. Belt length (effective)

inches Size No.

8465-99-428-7225 (28½ - 33¼) 1

8465-99-428-7226 (31½ - 36¼) 2

8465-99-428-7227 (34½ - 39¼) 3

8465-99-428-7228 (37½ - 42¼) 4

8465-99-428-7229 (40½ - 45¼) 5

8465-99-428-7230 (43½ - 48¼) 6

8465-99-428-7231 Special measure


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Item Description BELT WAIST NO 1 MALE BROWN WITH BRASS FITTINGS


NATO Stock No. 8465-99-428-7232 to 7238

Scope:

Waist belt, male, worn by various Regiments and Corps with No 1 & No 2 Dress Provided in 6 sizes and a special measure. Size 3 pictured below.


inches Size No.

8465-99-428-7232 (27 - 31) 1

8465-99-428-7233 (30 - 34) 2

8465-99-428-7234 (33 - 37) 3

8465-99-428-7235 (36 - 40) 4

8465-99-428-7236 (39 - 43) 5

8465-99-428-7237 (42 - 46) 6



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Item Description BELT WAIST NO 1 FEMALE BROWN WITH BRASS FITTINGS

Pattern No. D00086 (To Guide for whole NSN range)

NATO Stock No. 8465-99-562-5569 to 5576

Scope:

Waist belt, female, worn by various Regiments and Corps with No 1 & No 2 Dress Provided in 7 sizes and a special measure. Size 3 pictured below.


inches Size No.

8465-99-562-5569 (24 - 28) 0

8465-99-562-5570 (27 - 31) 1

8465-99-562-5571 (30 - 34) 2

8465-99-562-5572 (33 - 37) 3

8465-99-562-5573 (36 - 40) 4

8465-99-562-5574 (39 - 43) 5

8465-99-562-5575 (42 - 46) 6



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Item Description FROG SWORD BROWN WITH BRASS FITTINGS

Pattern No. 25593A

NATO Stock No. 8465-99-973-6433

Scope:

Frog sword worn with Sam Browne Belt. Provided in one size


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Item Description FROG SWORD BLACK WITH BRASS FITTINGS

Pattern No. 28082

NATO Stock No. 8465-99-973-6575

Scope:

Frog sword worn Royal Tank Regiment with Sam Browne Belt. Provided in one size


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Item Description BELT SHOULDER NO 3 BLACK WITH BRASS FITTINGS


NATO Stock No. 8465-99-973-6925 to 6929

Scope:

Shoulder belt worn by Royal Tank Regiment with No 1 & No 2 Dress. Male & Female. Provided in 5 sizes. Size 2 pictured below.


inches Size No.

8465-99-973-6925 (31½ - 36¼) 2

8465-99-973-6926 (34½ - 39¼) 3

8465-99-973-6927 (37½ - 42¼) 4

8465-99-973-6928 (40½ - 45¼) 5

8465-99-973-6929 (43½ - 48¼) 6


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Item Description BELT WAIST NO 3 MALE BLACK WITH BRASS FITTINGS


NATO Stock No. 8465-99-973-6946 to 6950

Scope:

Waist belt, male, worn by Royal Tank Regiment with No 1 & No 2 Dress Provided in 5 sizes. Size 4 pictured below.


inches Size No.

8465-99-973-6946 (30 - 34) 2

8465-99-973-6947 (33 - 37) 3

8465-99-973-6948 (36 - 40) 4

8465-99-973-6949 (39 - 43) 5

8465-99-973-6950 (42 - 46) 6

manufacturing specification for belt waist, belt shoulder … 5453 iss 05... · 2019. 6. 18. ·...

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