male dress - great coats, surtouts & cloaks

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    18th Century Material Culture

    Great Coats, Surtouts, & Cloaks

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    IllustratedGreat Coats / Surtouts

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    The Centurion William Walker

    by Gerhard Bockman, After John Slack c. 1736 - 1773(The British Museum)

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    Thomas Coram

    by William Hogarth 1740(Foundling Hospital, London, England)

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    Two Men

    by Paul Sandby c. 1740 - 1765(The British Museum)

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    A Hanoverian who brought over despatches from William, Duke of Cumberland

    by Paul Sandby c. 1747 - 1752(The Royal Collection)

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    London Cries: All Fire and No SmokePaul Sandby c. 1759

    (Yale Center for British Art)

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    The Old Woman

    Paul Sandby(The British Museum)

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    David Garrick as John Brute in The Provokd Wife by Vanbruch, Drury Lane

    by Johann Zo!any 1763(Wolverhampton Arts & Heritage)

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    Parsons, Bransby, and Watkyns in a Scene from Lethe

    by the Circle of Johann Zo!any 1766(Birmingham Museums Trust)

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    A TOUR TO FOREIGN PARTS

    After Henry Bunbury 1767(Christies)

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    A TOUR TO FOREIGN PARTS

    After Henry Bunbury 1767(Christies)

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    "A Scene from "The Registrar's O"ce"

    by Benjamin Vandergucht 1773(Leiceister Arts and Museums Service)

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    WELLADAY: is this my SON TOM

    by Carington Bowles(The British Museum)

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    WHATS! THIS MY BOY TOM

    by M. Darley 1774(Lewis Walpole Library)

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    Man Standing in a Landscape

    Paul Sandby(The Royal Collection)

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    Voules. William, Duke of Cumberlands Bali!

    by Paul Sandby(The Royal Collection)

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    The Paxton Expedition

    by Henry Dawkins 1764(Library of Congress of Philadelphia)

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    The Paxton Expedition

    by Henry Dawkins 1764(Library of Congress of Philadelphia)

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    Colonel John Biddulph of the 3rd Regiment of Foot

    by Anthony Poggi after Thomas Watson 1770(The British Museum)

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    Colonel John Biddulph of the 3rd Regiment of Foot

    by Anthony Poggi after Thomas Watson 1770(The British Museum)

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    The OLD BALLAD SINGER.

    by Carington Bowles c. 1770(Private Collection)

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    The OLD BALLAD SINGER.

    by Carington Bowles c. 1770(Private Collection)

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    A MACARONI

    by M. Darley 1771(Colonial Williamsburg)

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    A HIBERNIAN ANTIQUE, Turnd modern MACARONI.

    by Mathew Darly 1772(The British Museum)

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    "MACARONI Valour displayd, or the Drunken Hero pillagd"

    by William Humphrey 1773(The British Museum)

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    Sti!BreezeWilliam Henry Bunbury

    (The Samuel Courtauld Trust, The Courtauld Gallery, London)

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    Thomas Hawkins and George Simpson Robbing the Mail near ColnbrookEngraving from The Annals of Newgate (1776), by John Villette

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    Night Watchman

    by John Bogle 1776(Yale Center for British Art)

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    Night Watchman

    by John Bogle 1776(Yale Center for British Art)

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    Mr. THOs. GENT, Printer, Aged 80, Citizen of LONDON, YORK, and DUBLIN.

    by Valentine Green, After Nathan Drake 1771(The British Museum)

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    A Jew

    18th Century(Lewis Walpole Library)

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    THE WESTMINSTER WATCHMAN

    1784(Private Collection)

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    THE WESTMINSTER WATCHMAN

    1784(Private Collection)

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    INSIGNIA VILLAE DE PRETON

    1784(Lewis Walpole Library)

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    Edward Orpin, Parish Clerk of Bradford - Upon - Avon

    18th Century(Philadelphia Museum of Art)

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    Ed Scofield

    c. 1756 - 1800(The British Museum)

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    Merchant James Cooke

    by Unknown c. 1780(Guildhall Winchester)

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    "The Gentle Shepherd"

    Illustration by David Allan for Allan Ramsay 1788(Private Collection)

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    "Dr Johnson in his Travelling Dress as described in Boswell's Tour"

    Thomas Trotter, published by George Kearsely, 1786(Private Collection)

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    A Night Watchman Making the Rounds

    by Thomas Rowlandson c. 1795 - 1800(Private Collection)

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    Newcastle Castle Keep - New GateCoat of Arms

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    English Figure of Winter

    Chelsea Manufactory c. 1752 - 1758(Museum of Fine Arts, Boston)

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    English Figure of Winter

    Chelsea Manufactory c. 1752 - 1758(Colonial Williamsburg)

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    Hooded FrenchRedignote en Bakmann

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    Redingote en Bakmann

    1779(Private Collection)

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    Redingote en Bakmann

    1779(Private Collection)

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    ExtantGreat Coats

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    Great Coat

    c. 1780 - 1820(Colonial Williamsburg)

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    A Recreated Great Coat of Grey Wool Beaver Cloth & Velvet

    (Colonial Williamsburg - Mark Hutter)

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    A Recreated Great Coat of Grey Wool Beaver Cloth & Velvet

    (Colonial Williamsburg - Mark Hutter)

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    A Recreated Great Coat of Grey Wool Beaver Cloth & Velvet

    (Colonial Williamsburg - Mark Hutter)

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    A Recreated Great Coat

    (Eric Schnitzer)

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    NewspaperAdvertisements

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    Advertisements - The Pennsylvania Gazette1776 (Top)

    1778 (Bottom)

    (Illustration Courtesy Andrew Watson Kirk)

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    Advertisements - The Pennsylvania Gazette1779

    (Illustration Courtesy Andrew Watson Kirk)

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    Cloaks

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    New England Cloakc. 1780

    (Museum of Fine Arts, Boston)

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    Roquelaure Cloak Owned by Judge Peter Oliver of the Boston Massacre Trial18th Century

    (Massachusetts Historical Society)

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    American Roquelaure Cloak Owned by Samuel White18th Century

    (Buttonwoods Museum, Haverhill, Massachusetts - Photograph Courtesy Neal Hurst)

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    American Roquelaure Cloak Owned by Samuel White18th Century

    (Buttonwoods Museum, Haverhill, Massachusetts - Photograph Courtesy Neal Hurst)

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    American Roquelaure Cloak Owned by Samuel White18th Century

    (Buttonwoods Museum, Haverhill, Massachusetts - Photograph Courtesy Neal Hurst)

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    English Roquelaure Cloak Owned by Timouthy Fellows18th Century

    (Private Collection - Courtesy Neal Hurst)

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    English Roquelaure Cloak Owned by Timouthy Fellows18th Century

    (Private Collection - Courtesy Neal Hurst)

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    Roquelaure Cloak18th - Early 19th Century

    (Litchfield Historical Society)

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    The Facetious Patie Birnie, Fidler in Kinghornby William Aikman c. 1725

    (National Museums Scotland)

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    The Field Coat of General Wolfe

    Green Serge Lined with Red Serge, Detachable Hood c. 1727 - 1759(The Royal Museum)

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    The Field Coat of General Wolfe

    Green Serge Lined with Red Serge, Detachable Hood c. 1727 - 1759(The Royal Museum)

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    The Field Coat of General Wolfe

    Green Serge Lined with Red Serge, Detachable Hood c. 1727 - 1759(The Royal Museum)

    P d A

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    Period Accounts

    On Sunday Evening, the ninth instant, was lost in Arch streeta dark blue Great coat ofblanket cloth, with a large red collar, yellow metal buttons, those on the sleeves, small

    Pennsylvania Evening Post, published as The Pennsylvania Evening Post (Philadelphia,Pennsylvania) 11-13-1777 Page 538

    Lost, a double milled drab Great coat, marked on the inside of the back, T. Peters

    Pennsylvania Evening Post, published as The Pennsylvania Evening Post (Philadelphia,Pennsylvania) 07-08-1777 Page 360

    Was StolenAlexander Carmichael, Lieutenant of the Eleventh Pennsylvania Regimentonelarge Hessian Hussars sword, three inches broad in the scabbard, lined with red, brass gilthilted, with a single guard; one pair buckskin breeches, one grey bearskin great coat, three shirts,two black silk stocks, and six pair of white worsted stockings

    Pennsylvania Packet, published as Dunlap's Pennsylvania Packet or, the General Advertiser(Philadelphia, Pennsylvania) 07-01-1777 Page 3

    P i d A

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    Period Accounts

    was found yesterday in the possession of a gang of thieves, one drab colour cloth great coat..

    Pennsylvania Evening Post, published as The Pennsylvania Evening Post (Philadelphia,Pennsylvania) 02-22-1777 Page 98

    Stolen, a blue broad cloth great coat, with a double cape, the upper one black Velvet, large silkand hair buttons

    Norwich Packet, published as The Norwich Packet and the Connecticut, Massachusetts, New-Hampshire, and Rhode-Island Weekly Advertiser (Norwich, Connecticut) From Monday,

    May 6, to Monday, May 13, 1776 Page 4

    Run awaya negro man, named Je!had on a mixt coloured black and white short great coat

    New-York Journal, published as The New-York Journal; or, The General Advertiser (NewYork, New York) 04-18-1776 Page 4

    Period Accounts

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    Period Accounts

    the person suspected to have stolen said Coathad ona light brown great coat

    Connecticut Journal, published as The CONNECTICUT JOURNAL. (New Haven,Connecticut) 03-27-1776 Page 4

    A robberythe following articles.A black silk cloke line with red baize half worn; a blue greatcoat lined with crimson baize, with a broad crimson velvet collar and slash sleeves of fourbuttons to each

    Pennsylvania Evening Post, published as The Pennsylvania Evening Post (Philadelphia,Pennsylvania) 01-31-1778 Page 52

    was stolen the following articlesone pair of spattersahes with morocco topsan excellent drabcloth coloured great coat, the sleeves line with glazd linen very much torn, two Durant pockets,serveral of the buttons o!the fore parts, a large tear mended joining the three buttons generallyon the right side, remarkably wide for the lengthJames Mullins

    Pennsylvania Packet, published as The Pennsylvania Packet or the General Advertiser(Philadelphia, Pennsylvania) 09-22-1778 Page [3]

    Period Accounts

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    Period Accounts

    Deserted from my company in the Col Johnsons regiment, belonging to the state ofConnecticut, John Tewhad on a brown great coat, a bu!cap, leather breeches and overallsDavid Eanoshad on a ragged great coat, and leather breechesIchabod Randallhad on ablue great coat, a close bodied coat faced with red, and leather breeches

    Providence Gazette, published as THE PROVIDENCE GAZETTE; AND COUNTRYJOURNAL: (Providence, Rhode Island) 01-31-1778 Page 3

    Stolena drab coloured Great coat, with flat mohair buttons, rattinet cape with a button of thesame stu!, sleeves lined with red tillet, and a small oznabrigs pocket with two keys in it

    Pennsylvania Ledger, published as The Pennsylvania Ledger: or the Philadelphia Market-Day

    Advertiser (Philadelphia, Pennsylvania) 12-10-1777 Page 3

    Dover Township, Monmouth county, robbedof the following articlesa homespun newgreat coat of a light colour

    New-Jersey Gazette, published as The New Jersey Gazette (Trenton, New Jersey) 11-25-1778

    Page 3

    Period Accounts

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    Period Accounts

    Stop thief, Stolena brown Kersey Great Coat

    Essex Journal, published as THE Essex Journal AND New-Hampshire PACKET(Newburyport, Massachusetts) 04-12-1776 Page 4

    The house of the subscriber, living at middlebrook, township of bridgewaterstate of New-Jersey, was broken open and robbed, of a suit of twilled superfine blue broadcloth with polishedsteel buttons and a star on the middle of each; a deep blue coat, fine broadcloth, with flat pinch-beck buttons; a pair of mixed red and with superfine broadcloth breeches, with silver platedbuttons, remarkable for having a three-square darn on one of the knees; a light coloured wiltoncoat, with light coloured binging and basket buttons; a great coat, brown coloured , with basket

    buttons, the cape lined with pale blue shalloon, about half worn; a beaver hat scalloped, with apiece gnawed out of the rim by the rat, with a large gold button with the shape of anchor in themiddle, and a gold loop; a dark silk purple and brown jacket, moulds covered the same forbuttons; a pair of Russia duck overalls

    New-Jersey Gazette, published as The New Jersey Gazette (Trenton, New Jersey) 12-02-1778 Page 4

    Period Accounts

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    Acknowledgements

    The 18th Century Material CultureResource Center is indebted to Mr. AndrewWatson Kirk for contributing all of thePeriod Accounts featured within this

    slideshow.

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    Acknowledgements

    The material contained within these slideshows is presented for educational purposes only. The18th Century Material Culture Resource Center does not personally own any of the itemsdepicted herein and is indebted to the countless museums, libraries, and private collectors who

    willingly share their collections with the public through the internet. Every attempt has beenmade to credit these organizations and individuals for their contributions as best as possible.

    If there is a question you have regarding a particular item featured within a presentation, pleasecontact the 18th Century Material Culture Resource Center and we will try to answer yourinquiry as best as possible. If for any reason you feel there is any item that should not bepresented here, or if there is an error in any listing, or if you know the source for any item whose

    credit is unknown, please inform us and we will make sure your concern is addressed as soon aspossible.

    Thank you!

    The 18th Century Material Culture Resource Center