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Makeup for the Everyday Woman

Module 02

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2. Module 02: Eyebrow trimming

Table of Contents

2. Module 02: Eyebrow trimming ................................................................................................................................ 1

2.1 Getting the Perfect Eyebrow Shape ...................................................................................................... 2

2.1.1 Eyebrow Anatomy and Grooming .................................................................................................... 2

2.1.2 Eyebrow Grooming and Correcting .................................................................................................. 4

2.1.3 Eyebrow Makeup .............................................................................................................................. 5

2.2 Eyebrow Hair Removal ......................................................................................................................... 5

2.3 Defining the Brows with Makeup ........................................................................................................... 7

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2.1 Getting the Perfect Eyebrow Shape

The eyebrows are probably the most important part of the face – no pressure here! The reason being, is they

frame the face and help to define its shape, and of course they draw attention to the eyes. You don’t need to

pluck like crazy or draw your brows on to get a great look – you just have to know how to work with what

you have. A round face, for example, with very rounded “half moon” eyebrows will look full in the cheeks

and even more round as a result. But changing the shape so that the brow is more angled, adding a bit of length

to the end, and loweing the arch will change the entire shape of the face, making it look more like an oval.

What’s important to note, is that very rarely can a person say “I want brows like ” and pull them off. Eyebrows

shouldn’t be replicated; you really need to look at your individual features and determine what shape, color,

and size will work best for your unique face.

2.1.1 Eyebrow Anatomy and Grooming

The eyebrow has three main sections: The body of the brow is the section from the inner starting point to the

highest point. The tail of the eyebrow is the outer section and, in well-groomed brows, is also the narrowest.

The arch of the eyebrow is the highest point and where we often pluck to shape the area where the body and

tail meet.

And while fashion trends may dictate eyebrow thickness or specific shapes, you should remember that trends

come and go! In the 1920’s for example, pencil-thin arched eyebrows were all the rage, but the 1940’s saw a

heavier, more dramatic brow ala Lauren Bacall. Then the 1960’s saw a retread of pencilled moon-shaped

brows, but thick natural brows were all the rage in the 1980’s. If you’re going to base your look off celebrities

and fashion trends, remember that it’s easier to chieve this with makeup than it is by permanently removing

hair!

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Here are a few tips to keep in mind for eyebrow grooming:

Cover stray hairs outside the ideal lines with white pencil to see how the eyebrows will look

once plucked. Remember: It’s easier to remove white pencil than to re-grow important hairs.

Raised eyebrows create a happy, youthful expression. For the everyday client, these are the ideal

to aim for. (If you are working on a fashion project, the desired look may be different.) If the

natural eyebrows are too high, the top hairs can be waxed and the area slightly below the natural

line can be filled in to bring it closer to the eyes.

Drooping eyebrows can give the appearance of sadness and age. In these cases, pluck the hairs

at the tail and, with a pencil, fill in a higher line.

Short eyebrows can easily be lengthened by applying pencil lines to the inside and outside edges.

Long eyebrows can be plucked to bring them into the ideal length according to the guidelines

above.

Thick eyebrows can be plucked to suit the ideal shape described above, to suit the characteristics

of the eye and to suit the aim for an oval-shaped face.

Thin eyebrows can be augmented by filling in with an eyebrow pencil, eyebrow gel or brow

powder above and below the eyebrow line, emphasizing the brow bone.

The shape of the eyebrows can be further intensified by highlighting the brow bone and areas

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around the tail and the arch with a matte white pencil or eye shadow. This can also help clean up

messy dark pencil or brow powder applications.

2.1.2 Eyebrow Grooming and Correcting

Before waxing or tweezing eyebrows, use these guidelines to create the ideal frame for the eyes:

1. Draw an imaginary line from the edge of the nostril to the inner corner of the eye, continuing

directly upwards to the eyebrow. This is the ideal starting point of the eyebrow. However, if the

client has a wide nose, starting the eyebrows a bit closer together can help create the illusion of a

more petite nose - just be careful not to overdo it.

2. Draw another imaginary line starting from the edge of the nostril to the middle of the eye, and

stop at the outer side of the iris (coloured part of the eye). This marks the ideal point for the peak

of your arch.

1. Draw a third line from the edge of the nostril to the outer corner of the eye, extending to the outer

part of the eyebrow (basically at a 45 degree angle). This point is the ideal place for the tail to

end.

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2.1.3 Eyebrow Makeup

Eyebrow Make-up

Instructions

Proportions of the eyebrows:

Draw an imaginary line, beginning at the nostril, past the tear duct and continuing upward. This

is the ideal point for the eyebrow to begin.

Draw another imaginary line from the corner of the mouth to the outer edge of the iris and

upwards. This point marks the ideal arch of the eyebrow.

An imaginary line from the nostril to the outer corner of the eye marks the ideal end of the

eyebrow.

Match the eyebrows to the hair tone using eye shadow and a bevelled brush.

There are brands that manufacture specific shadows for eyebrows with stencils that help to shape

the brows.

When choosing the tone for eyebrow make-up, always use the hair tone as a guide. The result should be as

natural as possible.

2.2 Eyebrow Hair Removal

There are many methods of hair removal, and each has their pros and cons!

Plucking: The most common method, plucking using tweezers is convenient, easy to do yourself, and gives

you quite a bit of control over your shape. Using a pair of tweezers with a pointed end, you remove the hairs

one-by-one until you reach your desired shape. Go slowly and step back every few minutes to make sure

you’re not overdoing it or getting off track, and compare both sides to check symmetry. If you tweeze after a

hot shower, hair follicles will be more pliable, and hair removal will be easier and less painful. Also, if you

use a magnifying mirror, use it sparingly. What looks good close up may look like a mess once you stand up,

and overplucking is more common when you’re looking at every single hair magnified.

Threading: Threading is a great method if you have fast-growing hairs and a permanent shape that you’re

trying to maintain. It involves using a thread to isolate individual hairs and pluck them by the root. It’s fast, it

lasts longer, and produced very clean results, but it’s not a technique that most can do on their own. You’ll

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likely have to go to a salon or specialist to get your eyebrows threaded, and it doesn’t always come cheap! It’s

a great option for sensitive skin, as it’ll leave it less irrirated than plucking or using chemical products.

Waxing: Waxing isn’t as popular as it used to be, but for bushy eyebrows or persistent “unibrow” growth, it’s

a lifesaver. You apply a thin layer of waxing product to the unwanted hair and place a removal strip on top,

giving it a few seconds to absorb the wax and hair before tearing it off. It’s more painful than plucking or

threading, but it’s fast, and it ensures that hair is removed from its follicle, which means it’ll be slower to grow

back. This method is also great for defining brow shapes, particularly from the top of the brow, and removing

over-growth in between brows and at the ends. It’s not a good option for sensitive skin, as it may cause redness

and even bleeding where hair has been ripped.

Trimming: If you want to maintain a mostly natural look, you can still do so without removing any hairs. What

we’d recommend is to brush the hairs using an eyebrow brush or even a dried and cleaned mascara wand, to

ensure hairs are flowing in the same directions and none are unruly or out of place. If you have some

overgrowth – hair growing outside your natural shape, then you can easily trim these using manicure scissors.

You can also give your brow a bit more shape by trimming the ends, so they taper off, and by trimming along

the top of the brows to keep all hairs at the same length.

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Electrolysis: This is a method of permanent hair removal using electricity to target the hair follicle and destroy

it. It should only be used when you have a permanent eyebrow shape in mind, or to get rid of unwanted hairs

in between the brows or under the brow bone. Unlike other types of permanent hair removal, the eyebrows

are quite effective because the area of treatment is so small and concentrated. You will, however, likely need

more than one session to completely remove unwanted hair. The upside of this procedure is that it’s permanent,

effective, and because it targets individual hairs, you have complete control over shaping. The downside is

that you obviously can’t do it yourself, it can be costly, and some individuals do experience discolouration of

the skin and quite a bit of pain.

2.3 Defining the Brows with Makeup

Now that you’ve determined your shape and removed any unwanted hairs, you can use makeup to fill in sparse

areas, define your arch, and really make your shape stand out. Makeup is a lifesaver for women with naturally

thin brows, or those whose brows have stopped growing due to over plucking. There are a few different types

of makeup you can try:

Eyebrow Pencils: These come in a wide range of colors, and are generally harder than eyeliners to keep from

smudging or sliding off during the day. You should apply the pencil in short upward strokes, as if you were

drawing on individual hairs. Use a light touch, and start NOT from the very most inner part of the brow, but

a few centimeters back – this will ensure you don’t get a harsh line that looks unnatural. Follow the shape of

the brow using the small upward strokes until the very end, and make sure that you taper the brow, decreasing

pressure so that strokes are lightest at the ends. When you’re done, use an eyebrow brush to blend, so you

don’t have any harsh lines.

Pencils are great for changing up or exaggerating your shape, to give extra definition to sparse brows, or to

extend the brow tail. They’re easy to handle, and by mimicing individual hairs, you can achieve a fairly natural

look – just don’t forget to blend!

Brow Shadows or Eye Shadows: Brow shadows work best, but in a pinch you can also use a matte eye shadow

that is close in color to your natural brows. Use an angled eyebrow brush in short upward strokes to sweep the

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product on, and then press it gently to ensure it sticks to the skin. You will have to build the shadow for a

more concentrated look if you’re filling in bald patches, so be patient and work up your layers.

Brow Creams: These come in a pot and should be applied with an angled eyebrow brush. Use a tiny dab on

the onset to ensure you’re not overdoing it, and build up as you go. Creams are best to achieve dramatic looks

or to define brows using precise lines.

Eyebrow Waxes: Not the same as the removal wax, this is a shaping and tinting wax to keep hairs in place,

fill in bald spots, and give brows more definition. You can buy them in pots, or in compacts, and use an angled

brush for application.

Eyebrow Gels: These are used to keep hairs in place, and are particularly useful for those with thicker, fuller

brows. You can buy them in pots, to use with a brush, or they can look like a mascara and include a wand for

application. You can find clear or tinted products, but we recommend choosing a clear option to ensure that

you don’t have a color mis-match on your hands.

Highlighters: You can use a highlighting pencil, shadow or cream underneath your brow to really accentuate

the shape and give your arch a lift.