make your own bag

MAKE YOUR OWN SLEEPING BAGContributed by: Rob Marco, 1999

IntroductionA sub-2 lb. 3-season down bag for$90 ? Get outta here!!...

Have you ever lain in bed at nightthinking about the day when you'll beable to score a Feathered Friends orWestern Mountaineering sleepingbag? Or toss and turn restlesslywondering how you'll be able tofinance the down payment for one ofthem? Well I've got a solution thatmay help you sleep easier: Makeyour own bag!I've been making my own gear for acouple years now, and sleeping bagsare one of my favorite things tomake. When you think about it,there's nothing too complicated thatprevents you from making one--they're basically a quilt sewn togetherat both sides. How hard is that!?Well, it's a little bit more complicatedthan that, but hopefully I'll be able towalk you through it with the plansfor making your own down mummybag. I'm convinced that these bags arelighter than the bigger retailers andcost almost three times less to make.My biggest surprise after making oneof these bags is how similar it was to$250+ down bags I saw in thestore...even the best quality FF andWM. The 20 degree model packsdown to about 7"x14", and weighsapproximately. 1lb. 15 oz. Not bad,eh?

MaterialsSleeping bags don't get a whole lot of stress in comparison to items likeboots and tents. Therefore, constructing bags from the lightest materialavailable is the best way to go to shave ounces (or pounds) off your packweight while at the same time maintaining a high level of durability.

I use 1.1oz ripstop nylon for both the inner and outer shell, and 700 fill powerdown for the fill. For colder weather bags, I use a half zipper, #5 YKK, and forsummer bags I use a full length #3 YKK. Aside from a small piece ofhook&loop (velcro), a drawstring, and no-see-um netting for the baffles, that'sall you need to construct a bag.However, this stuff can be expensive. 700 fill power offers a great amount ofloft, but is VERY hard to purchase retail. I had to order a minimum of 5lbs thatran me over $360! This is by far the most expensive part of the bag, but whenyou think about it, since it's a loftier down, you can use less of it--therefore,carrying and paying for less.Dimensions are up to you, but I go with the traditional 60"x54"x38". The hoodis a simple design, but does the trick. Half zipper or full zipper...it's up to you! Adraft tube to go along with it. I'll give instructions for my own stature (6 footmale, 155lbs) and you can modify however you want.*Like I said, a lot of the materials I ordered were ordered in bulk quantities.Therefore, if anyone is interested in undergoing this project, you can ordermaterials directly from me, running about $90 total for everything you need tomake a 20 degree bag. BafflesThe day I learned how to design baffles I felt like the enlightened Buddha!I'll explain how to go about it in the steps. The baffles for these bags arebasically long rectangular strips of noseeum netting that acted as 'walls' toseparate and keep the down in individualized compartments. You candesign em anyway you want, but lately I've been working with continuousstraight-block baffles, that is, the down can be shifted from top to bottomor vise-versa without interruption, and they run perpendicular to thefabric (as opposed to slant-box baffles, which are off-set and set at angles).For lightweight summer bags, baffles are not commonly used, whichmakes construction easier. I'll try to give instructions for both types.Remember also that the temperature rating for a bag is based on howmuch loft the bag has. A summer bag typically has about 3" of loft (1.5"top, 1.5" bottom), and 20 degree bags about 6" (3"top, 3" bottom).Therefore, I usually make the baffles about 3.5" in height, and the lengthabout 60" (or shorter, depending how close you get to the foot section ofthe bag).

Notes: You gotta have a sewing machine to do this (obviously). Thread typedoesn't matter too much, but make sure it's not too thick. You want to use thesmallest needle possible so you don't make big holes (facilitates down leakage),and i also use a low-thread count (8-10per inch) for the same reason. I've beensewing for a couple years, so I know how to do a lot of seams and stitches thatmakes for a nicer looking and higher quality bag. They are hard to explain, soI'm not going to try. A background in sewing helps...I don't know the names forthe stitches, so I'll just try to give you the best idea I can. The best thing you cando when making a bag is use an existing bag to model from, so you'll get an ideaof what I'm *trying to explain.

The StepsStart out by making a newspaper cutout pattern. Construct it in thetraditional mummy fashion, but make it so it represents one side of themummy bag, like your looking at a bag from a bird's eye view. Thecutouts should be identical, except that one will have a semi-circularextension at the top (the hood). Be sure to allow yourself more material

extension at the top (the hood). Be sure to allow yourself more materialthan you think you will need to allow for seams..it's better to have a bagthat's too big rather than too small.

The sheet of material should measure 60" in width by 2.5 yards (7.5 feet).Note: make sure after cutting out the patterns from the material, to run the edgesover a candle flame so they don't fray (if you didn't use a hot knife).Most material is 60" in width. This should give you enough room to get the topsand bottoms of the bag, if you invert both patterns. Typical dimensions are 59-62" shoulder girth, 52-56" hip girth, 39-40" foot circumference. The shell isconstructed of 4 parts: the inside and outside TOP part, and the inside andoutside BOTTOM part. The bottom part is longer, since there is an approximate.16" diameter semicircle as part of the pattern which is to be the hood. The top(near the chin area), can be cut straight across or with a slight (apr ox 6")concavity. Once the patterns are cut, sew the two patterns that lookDIFFERENT along the sides. In other words, the outside shells are sewntogether along the sides, as well as the inside shells. Still confused? The longerpattern with the hood is sewn to the shorter pattern along the side. Sew withabout a 1/2" seam allowance, and invert so the seam is hidden.After that, cut the baffles. No-see-um netting is the best. Temp rating isdetermined by loft of both the TOP AND BOTTOM part of the bag. Typically,a 20degree bag has about 6" of loft, so if you laid the bag out like a quilt (open),the loft would be 3". So make the baffles as high as you need. For 20degreebags, cut baffles about 3 1/2" (the final baffle will be about 3" high). Sinceshoulder girth is typically around 60", this is as long as the shoulder baffle needsto be for that area, since these instructions are for CONTINUOUS baffled bags.As you move farther down the bag, baffles decrease in length.It gets crowded in there when you start sewing the baffles, so it helps to drawparallel lines on the INSIDE of the shells to determine where the baffle needs tobe sewn. Baffle width is usually 5 1/2"-6 1/2", so measure up from the bottomand draw parallel lines across spaced about this distance from each other.Remember, you are drawing these lines only on the inside, and they go straightacross both the HOODED and NONHOODED pattern, WHICH ARE SEWNTOGETHER. It's hard to visualize, I Know.Before you start sewing the baffles in place, place the two patterns together sothey are identical. Remember, there are only TWO patterns now, since they arecomposed of two separate parts for each pattern. Place them together so theINSIDE of the shells (where you drew the lines) are on the outside of the bag,where you can see them. Sew with a 1/2" seam allowance along the top of thepattern; in other words, along where your chin would be, and where thecircumference of the hood semi-circle is. Do this as you did the side seam, andinvert in order to hide the seam. Then once the lines you drew are now on theINSIDE, sew the two pieces together about 1/2" from the seam you just made.You will be able to see the stitching on this part. This is to contain the drawcord.Next, sew the baffle strips along the lines you drew, on only one Pattern. Ithelps to tuck over a small allowance so you can sew through TWO parts of theno-see-um as opposed to one, for added strength.This next step is very important. You MUST start at the very TOP of the bag,the first baffle in the hood section. It is very hard to describe in words, but this isthe only way to do it. Sew the other side of the baffle to the other side of theshell, which has lines on it, but has not been sewn yet. You have to stuff thedown in this first (and the second) compartment first, before sewing otherbaffles, or you won't be able to get it in there. Repeat for the secondcompartment.Now you can sew all other baffles and save the filling for later. Do one bafflestrip at a time, sewn to each drawn line, and work your way down to the foot of

strip at a time, sewn to each drawn line, and work your way down to the foot ofthe bag.Now sew the bottom of the bag together so the down won't spill out when youstuff it. Sew parallel to the drawn lines and tuck the ends in so they won't fray.Next, sew a zipper on one side of the bag, again tucking in the fabric so itdoesn't fray. Then hand fill the chambers with down on the open end, and sewthe other zipper to seal the chambers.Making a square foot box is the easiest way to go about this task. If the bottomlength of the bag is say 40", make the square pocket 5"x15", or 6"x14", so thatthe perimeter of the box is also 40". Sew the box on three sides, with tuckedseams, and seal the fourth side after filling. Then sew the foot box to the bottomof the bag along the perimeter of the bottom.Insert a drawcord and stitch each side to keep it in place. Cut two small holesand have the cord come out near the side seam, insert a barrel lock, and since upthe hood. You can do a velcro closure near the top of the zipper if you feel likeit. Remember not to forget zipper stops.

* The best thing todo when making abag is to have oneavailable to use as amodel.

A lot of the things Iwas describing arehard to visualizewithout seeing them.My first sleeping bagwas pretty crude, butworked well.Remember if you needmaterial, or havequestions, drop me anemail. Good luck!

Rob Marco, [email protected]

Henry's 18 oz. & 24 oz. Tarptent Contributed by: Henry Shires, 3/01/99 (updated 9/15/01)

Henry's 18-ounce Tarptent & 24-ounce Tarptent-for-2*

The Tarptent sleeps 1+ (me, gear, +) and weighs 18 ouncescomplete with poles, stakes, tie lines etc. The Tarptent-for-2 sleeps 2(or huge for one), weighs 24 ounces complete including generousbeak, and has some additional room for gear. Both tents are floor-less, completely screened with zipper opening door and made from 1.1oz silicone-coated nylon. Here's everything you need to know to makeyour own.

*NEW 9/15/01

(More Tarptent-for-2 Photos) (More Tarptent Photos)

IntroductionShelter ComparisonAll in the FabricAnatomy of a DesignMaterialsThe PlansSome Assembly RequiredOut, Damned MosquitoesOptions (Why? Because we got 'em)Finishing TouchesBut Do I Really Want to Make One...Five Months on the PCT

IntroductionA goal of every ultralight backpacker is to carry a comfortable shelterthat offers maximum protection from wet weather and bugs, whileminimizing weight, difficulty of setup, and cost. The Tarptent is mysolution to the problem.

Shelter ComparisonThere are three traditional shelter types. Here is a summary of theirrelative performance. My rankings are subjective.

Type Rain Bugs Weight *Setup Cost Spacetent 4-3 4 3-1 3-1 3-1 4-3bivy 3-2 4 3 4 3-2 1tarp 4-3 1 4 4-2 4 4

4=excellent, 3= good, 2=fair, 1=

poor

* setup for tarps is often a factor ofavailable trees.

Each shelter type excels in certain categories. The tarp is at or near the top inall categories except bugs. My goal was to create a modified tarp thateliminated the bugs while maintaining excellence in all other categories. TheTarptent weighs 18 ounces, sleeps one person plus gear, and costs about$60 to make. The Tarptent-for-2 costs costs a few dolllars more.Disclaimer: Snowy, winter conditions create additional shelter needs. TheTarptent will be fine in light snowstorms but is NOT intended for winteruse.

All in the FabricWhile researching tents for my thru-hike, I found and subsequentlypurchased a tent from Stephenson (603-293-7016), a producer of verylight, high quality, but expensive tents. This bug-tight, 4-season tentweighs just over 3 pounds (less if you don't get the extra windowscreening), sleeps 2 very comfortably, and offers easy setup. It wouldrate a "4" in nearly all categories except cost. At 1.5 lbs/person, it'shard to beat, except if you're hiking solo.

What really got me thinking about making my own tent was the Stephensontent material. Stephenson tents are able to achieve their remarkable lightnessbecause they use 1.4 oz./sq. yd. silicone coated ripstop nylon. Urethanecoated nylons weigh well over 2 oz./sq. yd, some approaching 3 oz/sq. yd.While this may not sound like much of a savings, it really starts to add upwhen your tent contains 10+ sq. yds of material. The Stephenson catalogoffers the 1.4 oz. fabric for sale. It also references the material that was usedin previous model years but discontinued because of an apparent problemwith the supplier's ability to meet demand. This material is 1.1-ouncesilicone-coated nylon (silnylon). Silnylon is available now from several mailorder suppliers, and it is the material I used to make my Tarptent. It is verystrong, extremely lightweight and must, of course, be protected fromabrasion to withstand extended use. For those who expect extremely highwinds or subject their fabric to abrasive situations, I would recommendgetting the Stephenson 1.4 oz fabric. It will add about 1 oz. to the overallweight of the Tarptent design.

weight of the Tarptent design.Update 9/5/01: "1.1-ounce" refers to the fabric weight before the coating isapplied. Actual fabric weight is variable, depending on manufacturer, andcan range from 1.3 to 1.5 ounces/ sq. yd. This variability will impact thefinal Tarptent weight by up to 1 ounce. Recently I have begun using asilicone-coated, "zero-porosity, high performance rip stop nylon fabric"from Aerodyne Research Corp that is used for parachutes. It's called ZeroPorosity Fabric (ZPF) and the company claims that it weighs 1.3 ounces/sq. yd. On my scale it weighed 1.5 ounces/sq yd. My last batch of "1.1-ounce" silnylon from Outdoor Wilderness Fabrics also weighed 1.5ounces/sq yd. so either my scale is off or the variability is just to beexpected. What's great about the ZPF fabric is that it has a smooth, ratherthan slippery, finish and is MUCH easier to sew than standard 1.1-ouncesilnylon. Sort of like the difference between matte and glossy photographicpaper. This fabric is extremely strong with better abrasion resistance--youwouldn't want your parachute to be weak--but seems to have a bit moreelasticity than standard silnylon. The 3-point rear pullout on the Tarptent-for-2 is designed to eliminate the small amount of extra sag caused by theincreased elasticity. Your mileage will vary.

Anatomy of a DesignWhen I started working on this design, I began with an IntegralDesigns 8'x5' 1.1-ounce silicone coated tarp. It weighed about 6 oz,cost $50, and came with all the guyline pullouts already installed. Icreated a simple a-frame design, using 26" straight poles (I-poles) inthe front and back. I sealed the triangular open ends with coatednylon doors, bounded at the apex by small mosquito netting vents forventilation. I sewed one door edge to the tarp and used Velcro toattach the other edge for easy opening and closing . A groundclothformed the floor of the enclosure. I attached guylines to the front andback and staked all 4 corners to the ground. There was just enoughroom to wriggle in and out of the tent and it kept the bugs out.Serviceable, cheap, lightweight, no view and no fun. It also sufferedfrom condensation and showered on me when I brushed the materialwhile exiting the tent. Next I decided to raise one long side of the tentand add mosquito netting along the entire length. This increasedventilation and provided a bit of a view. It also dramatically increasedfloor space while extending the drip line away from the interior.

Original Design Raised Side Modification

I modified the door and added guylines along the edge of the raised side atthe corners and in the middle. While testing this tent I discovered that thenetting actually blocks most of the driven rain. Small spray that gets throughthe netting will not reach more than a foot or so into the interior so as longas you keep the groundcloth/sleeping bag away from the netting you willstay dry. Subsequently I changed the front and back doors to all netting toincrease ventilation and views with minimal increase to rain exposure. Theoriginal 8' x 5' tarp was then transformed into something like this:

I field tested this tent on a '98 JMT hike and it performed quite well. I stillgot a few drips of condensation when exiting the tent and I couldn't sit up tomove around, eat, or put on a shirt. I yearned for more freedom ofmovement.This time I needed my calculator and a little help from simple trigonometry.I wanted to maintain the floor space but increase the headroom withoutadding much to the overall weight. By raising the front and lowering therear I added less than 7 sq. ft. (less than 1 ounce) but increased headroomby 1 foot. I'm 5'11" and can just sit up in the Tarptent. So without furtherado, here's how to make your very own 18-ounce Tarptent.

Materials1.1-ounce, silicone-coated nylon (silnylon) - 6 yds.

No-see-um mosquito netting. Tarptent: 4 yds; Tarptent-for-2: 4 1/2yds

3/4" nylon tape/webbing - 2 yds.

3/4" or 1" Velcro tape (both halves) - 7" (4" if not including beak)

Grommet kit - size 1. If you plan to use trekking poles, make sure thegrommet diameter fits your pole tips (and you may need 1" or widerwebbing for a wider grommet).

Easton aluminum poles (.340"). Tarptent: 36" front and 18" rear;Tarptent-for-2: 40" front and 20" rear. (Note: larger poles can also beused with the original Tarptent at some loss to interior space) Eastonpoles are extremely strong, slightly flexible, and very light. A set ofpoles weighs 2.5 ounces for the Tarptent or 3 ounces for the Tarptent-for-2. Poles should have grommet tip on one end and be capped on theother end. The front pole should be shock-corded to prevent losing asection and for easier and faster set-up. Trekking poles may also besubstituted.

6-8 stakes. In the absence of trees, rocks, or other tie off points youwill probably want all 8 stakes to pull out the midpoints on both longsides. I recommend titanium stakes as they are incredibly strong andweigh only 12 grams/stake (3.4 ounces/8 stakes).

#3 or #5 coil zipper w/double tab for opening from inside and out.Tarptent: 42"; Tarptent-for-2: 50".

Nylon cord for guylines. I recommend The Kelty "Triptease" ultralightspectra cord - 15'. Not only is it exceptionally strong and light but it'shighly reflective and very easy to see. Burn the cut ends to preventunravelling.

GE Silicone II Clear Sealer. Mix with some mineral spirits and painton the seams, especially the outside (top side) of the main roof seam.

Scrap nylon for reinforcing pullouts. Use scrap from 1.1 oz. nylon orwhatever else you have but uncoated ripstop is probably better toprevent water from getting trapped between the layers. Be sure toheat seal uncoated fabric with a match or soldering iron.

Home or industrial sewing machine. Be sure to use 100% polyester orspun nylon thread--I use polyester thread made by Guterman--and

spun nylon thread--I use polyester thread made by Guterman--anduse a small needle size. Do NOT use heavy duty thread.

Pins for marking seams.

Measuring tape, yardstick, and scissors. Optional but very useful is arotary fabric cutter and mat.

A good place to order materials is Outdoor Wilderness Fabrics (1-800-693-7467). Poles can be assembled from sections available at REI andother sources. My local REI did not have the grommet tips when Iinquired so I had my poles custom made by TA Enterprises (1-800-266-9527) for about $10.

Pole Notes: Adjustable Trekking poles can also be used. If you turn thepoles over you should be able to insert the pole tips into the existinggrommets. Adjust the poles to match the specs for the front and rear heights(though most trekking poles will not collapse down to 20" and you'll haveto get creative to use one for the rear). For those using Glen Van Peski's G4 pack, the 18" or 20" Easton poles willdouble as excellent pack stays. Simply shove them down between the foldsin the Z-Rest frame sheet. Using the Tarptent poles, I find the G4 comfortand load carrying capacity to be greatly improved

The PlansThe following designs are intended for 1 person and gear (Tarptent)or 2 people and some gear (Tarptent-for-2). The Tarptent can sleeptwo in a pinch but the Tarptent-for-2 is intended for extended 2-person use or as a more luxurious shelter for one.

Fabric Dimensions:Cut 2 identical pieces of silnylon. Click here for printable pattern.Note: Ron "Fallingwater" Moak has developed an alternate pattern for atarptent which uses more of the fabric sheet by running the seam across thetent instead of down the roof line. Click here to see his idea.

Cut 4 pieces of no-see-um netting. Click here for printable pattern.Left Side (raised side)

Right Side (low side)

Front Door

Rear Door

Cut 8 identical pieces of nylon tape or webbing for pullouts.

Cut 1 piece of Velcro tape (both sides) for netting tie or 2 pieces if you'readding a beak.

Some Assembly RequiredPlace the two identical pieces of silicone-coated nylon together andstitch along the long horizontal side. Use a 0.5" inch seam allowance.The Tarptent should now look like this:

Now fold over each edge 3/4" and stitch to form a border. The Tarptentshould now look like this:

The PulloutsPullouts are used to attach the Tarptent to the ground, via a stake orguyline.

The areas around the pullouts will be subject to stress and it is imperativethat these areas be reinforced to spread the load. Cut scrap nylon andreinforce as shown :

You will need to cut scrap nylon to fit each corner and the midway point ofeach parallel side (the ridgeline pullouts). You can also add reinforcingpatches along the midway point of each long side though those points donot experience much stress. Make each piece several inches wide/long andstitch along the direction of stress. Front and Rear PulloutsThe front and pullouts are grommeted to support the Tarptent poles.Adjustable Trekking poles can also be used but be sure the grommetand associated webbing is large enough or just affix the trekking poleto the webbing loop and leave out the grommet.

Make two identical grommet loops as follows:Fold a piece of nylon tape in half. Insert a #1 grommet near the end of theloop, through both pieces of tape, and spread the free ends as shown:

Repeat with a second piece of tape. Now, attach the grommet loops to themiddle of the front and rear parallel sides. Be sure to spread out the tape sothat there is more surface area to sew.

Side pullouts

Side pulloutsNow attach the remaining webbing strips to the 4 corners and the tworemaining midpoints. Fold each piece in half, turn it so it faces youedge on and then open it like a book to form a loop that looks likethis:

Attach the loops to the remaining areas in the same manner as the grommetloops. Your Tarptent should now look like this:

Out, Damned MosquitoesBlessed be the ones inside the netting for they shall remain sane...

Before you attach the netting you should determine which long side of yourTarptent you want to raise up. If you sleep on your left side as I do you willwant to raise up the left side (as viewed from the front) of the Tarptent soyou can see out the side of the tent while lying down. Reverse theinstructions for a "right-sided" design.A Velcro closure is nice so that you can prop open the door when the bugsare low. Peel apart the two halves of the Velcro and stick them togetheragain so that they form one long piece with about 1/2" overlap.

Sew the overlap area to the edge of the tarp, about 1/3 of the way up thefabric, so that it forms a right angle to the tarp.Be sure to attach the Velcro to the left side of the Tarptent before you sewthe netting. When the netting is held open by the Velcro it will look like this:

Now, sew each of the long pieces of netting to the edges of the Tarptentroof as shown below. Be sure to center each piece of netting so that there isenough material on both ends to overlap with the adjoining netting. Fornow, do not sew past the center of each corner.

Tip: The netting/nylon interface is slippery. You will want to use a shortstitch length to prevent seam puckering. Practice with scrap before youproceed or you will have to rip out your first attempts. I also recommendcutting each long side netting in half and sewing each half separately. Oncethe tent is set up, pin and re-sew the break in the vertical wall. This will helpeliminate the stretch in the netting.You are now ready to set up the Tarptent and adjust the netting for good fitand finish. Be sure the Tarptent is taut before proceeding. Walk to the backof the Tarptent and pull the back window netting flap across until it's taut.

Pin the netting to the edge of the roof line. Now go the front of the Tarptentand repeat the sequence with the front door flap but leave a little slack tocompensate for the zipper. Draw a line along the netting corresponding tothe pins. This is the zipper line and you will need to trim the netting back tothis line. Take down the Tarptent and sew the zipper to the right side of theTarptent You will need to sew one side to the right edge of the roof and theother side to the edge of the netting.

Be sure to block the top of the zipper to prevent complete separation bysewing an extra piece of nylon tape across the zipper. Stitch over the area afew times. Do the same thing to the bottom of the zipper by separatelytaping each bottom edge and stitch to prevent unraveling.Finish sewing the rear window along the pin line.Set up the tent again and pin the corners of the netting so that they hangstraight and slightly inward. Each corner should form a pocket (for placingrocks/shoes/etc. to hold the netting) and the netting should fold to the inside.There should be about 7 inches of netting to the inside of the tent. Trim thenetting as desired. In the field, place objects along the netting border, asneeded, to complete the bug seal. When you have finished pinning the material, take the Tarptent down andsew the netting along the pin lines.

Options (Why? Because we got 'em.)Sorry no moon roofs or 4-speaker stereos. But if it's beaks or floorsyou want, you came to the right place.

Adding a Beak

Tarptent with optional beak; beak rolls up and can be tied offwith velcro

A beak is an awning that partially covers the front of the tent. I have made ita standard part of the Tarptent-for-2 and consider it optional for the originalTarptent. It adds about 1 ounce to the overall weight of the finished product.In either case, it will not be needed except when the tent front is aimed intothe blowing rain. A beak will, however, allow the front netting to be leftopen during most storms--a benefit for increasing airflow in wet weather--and allow you to scootch up toward the front. Like the door netting, thebeak is designed to be rolled up and stored with velcro when not needed. Click here for printable pattern

Adding a FloorThe Tarptent is designed to have an open floor with netting border.Typically a groundcloth forms the interior. I always carry agroundcloth made of Tyvek Housewrap--a very tough and highlywater resistant fabric used in building construction--and center itinside the Tarptent. My groundcloth measures 3 x 6 1/2 feet andweighs about 5 ounces.

Top-down view of Tarptent interior

Another option is to fill the space with a full netting, Tyvek, Silnylon, orcombination floor.

A removable floor is the best of all worlds because it gives you flexibility tosleep out or in without having to carry an extra groundcloth. Here's how tomake one.Determine the dimensions of your groundcloth. Now cut or piece together anetting floor insert to match the interior dimensions of the "hole" in theTarptent or Tarptent-for-2 (see above) and create a another hole in themiddle of the netting insert that is an inch or two smaller than yourgroundcloth. Sew velcro to the corners and middle of the long sides asshown.

shown.

Note: The interior profile will appear slightlydifferent, depending on the tension of the sidepullouts. Actual profile will be more square across thefront end (left end in this picture) and then tapertoward the rear. Create the floor insert using the"stretched" dimensions so the netting insert will notbe stretched during setup.

Sew corresponding velcro patches to your groundcloth as shown.

Sew the netting insert to the netting flaps on the tarptent (except the frontdoor) and press the groundcloth velcro patches onto the netting insert. Yourcompleted floor should now look like this,

A combination netting/removable floor should add 1-1.5 ounces to theoverall Tarptent weight (not including the weight of the groundcloth). A fullnetting floor would add about 4 ounces.

Finishing TouchesSet up the Tarptent again and seam seal the main ridge seam and, if youwish, the seams around the pullouts. You may also wish to sew smallloops at the front of ridgeline and about 1 foot toward the rear for useas a small clothesline or flashlight holder. An additional benefit ofthese two loops is that they double as a ridgeline tightener.

Click here for additional Tarptent-for-2 finishing touches.But Do I Really Want to Make One...

But Do I Really Want to Make One...Since I first published this document, many people have asked me if Ihave any Tarptents to sell. The answer used to be no but is now yes,time permitting. Contact me if you would like a Tarptent or Tarptent-for-2.

Five Months on the PCT

Goat Rocks Wilderness, Washington

I put the Tarptent through an extensive field test during my hike. For nearly5 months on the trail, the Tarptent was truly my home. Overall, it performedlike a champ and I stayed exceptionally dry and warm during my walk. I do,however, have a few comments and suggestions for future Tarptent users.Over time, thin poles will sink into wet or loose soil. To solve theproblem, place small, flat rocks under each pole during set-up.

The original design called for 6" netting flaps around the perimeter.Despite security measures, there were still times when a fewmosquitos managed to evade the defenses. If you plan to camp in verybuggy conditions I suggest another inch or two to the netting width.The key to whatever width you choose is to press the netting to theground with rocks, sticks, shoes, overlapping ground cloth, etc.Properly pinned, the netting will stop all flying insects from entering.Ants are a bit more clever and a few will find their way in no matterwhat you do. If you must stop ants, a full netting floor will add about 4ounces to the tent weight and is a reasonable ultralight solution. Update 9/5/01: I have ammended the plans in this document toinclude 7" flaps and suggestions for a full floor.

I sewed small velcro patches to the inside of the front door, two alongeach seam. Since I carried a poncho, I also sewed matching patchesalong the edges of the poncho. During windy storms, when I hadneglected to aim the low end of the tent into the blowing rain, Iattached the poncho to the velcro patches and was able to stop themist and droplets from entering. Any piece of fabric, coated orotherwise, will accomplish the same thing. Another option would be toadd a beak to the front entry area. Update 9/5/01: I have included plans for a beak. The Tarptent will be forever linked with the most incredible journeyof my life.

That's it! I hope you enjoy your Tarptent or Tarptent-for-2 and please feelfree to contact me with comments or suggestions.

Henry [email protected]

Ben's TarptentContributed by: by Benjamin Miller, 3/01/2

IntroductionA tent you make yourself can have several advantagesover a commercial product. This one is cheaper ($60-$70all told) and substantially lighter (about 1.5 lbs). It took meslightly more than a weekend to make, and you'll probablybe quicker.Before we begin, I need to acknowledge my debt to otherswho have published their efforts: My principal sourceswere Henry Shires' TarpTent and Ray Jardine's tarpinstructions, which can be found in his book BeyondBackpacking. Design ConceptMy tent is modeled on Henry Shires' TarpTent. I havemade a few changes to the design to fit my needs anddesires and I've also implemented a few refinements.For one thing, I wanted to make the front and rearedges of the tent vertical when viewed from the sides,which they are not in Shires' tent (his tent slants tothe rear). I also decided that I wanted to increase theairiness and usable space of the tent by lifting bothsides off the ground. Although Shires says that thebug mesh breaks up any flying rain enough to keepthe interior dry, I was worried that I might not be astolerant of rain intruding through the large frontopening. So I added a simple awning which covers thefront end of the tent. It fits loosely enough that thereshould still be plenty of ventilation inside, and inaddition to keeping rain off the front door, it providesa protected area in which gear, boots, etc. can bestored. This is similar to the beaks which Shiressuggests for the front of his tarptent, but it covers thefront mesh entirely and also protects some squarefootage in front of the tent. It's entirely optional, soyou can decide to make it or not and take it or not.

you can decide to make it or not and take it or not.

I also wanted to retain some of the flexibility of a plain 'oltarp while also preserving the benefits of a tarptent. Themain advantage of a tarp, as I understand it, is that it can bepitched closer to the ground if heavy rain or high windsrequire it. The design of this tent has a more fixedgeometry. I developed the following system to allow it tobe easily erected in a more weatherproof fashion. The frontpole consists of three sections. The middle section is 12"long and the pole in not shock-corded. If bad weather isanticipated, the middle section is simply removed from thepole. The front end of the tent is then 12" lower, the frontcorners rest on the ground, and the tent becomes muchmore snug.While my final design deviates somewhat from HenryShires' method, I would still highly recommend that youread his instructions. Other excellent sources of gear-making information are The Lightweight Backpacker andThru-Hiker.com.For a peek at some of the mathematical concepts behindthis design, check out my discussion of the TrigTent. CaveatsThis was my first ever sewing project. I am not an expert.I tried to give a lot of detail when writing theseinstructions, but I don't intend for them to be followedslavishly. Think of this document as a collection of advice.If you take what I've provided here and use it to produceyour own more-advanced model, I'll be happier than if youjust follow my directions step by step.The first piece of advice I will offer is this: Read throughthese instructions carefully before you begin. I know thissounds a little contradictory, given what I just said, butwhat I want to point out is the need to go through theentire process in your mind. Some parts might get difficultotherwise. For example, in the front peak we have to dealwith: the ridgeline seam, the hem on the front edge of thetent, a reinforcing patch, a webbing pull loop, the frontmesh panel, and the zipper. Thinking through these detailsbeforehand will be time well spent.IntroductionMaterials

Construction:

I: RoofII: WallsIII: DoorIV: SupportV: Finishing TouchesVI: AwningVII: The End

Materials1.3 oz silicon-impregnated ripstop nylonyards

This fabric (known as "silnylon") is currently allthe rage for lightweight homemade backpackingproducts. My personal feeling, after some first-hand experience with the material, is that I wouldhave preferred a slightly heavier fabric. In certainrespects, silnylon is quite strong, but in others Ifind it a bit worrisome. It would be quite easy topoke a sharp stick or rock right through a tautsilnylon tent. I'm also a little worried aboutstitches in high-stress areas pulling through the

stitches in high-stress areas pulling through thefabric. Still, people use silnylon for projectsranging from stuff-sacks to ponchos to backpacksand they do so without suffering any catastrophicfailures. I think the best course is to decide justhow careful you want to be with your gear and thenchoose your fabric accordingly.

Noseeum mesh - 4.5 yards1.9 oz uncoated ripstop nylon - .5 yard

High-stress areas of the tent call for some extrareinforcement, which is provided by this fabric.Henry Shires points out that patches made ofuncoated fabric won't trap water betweenthemselves and the waterproof roof, which makessense to me. Half a yard is more than enough. Usethe leftovers to make a bag for the tent.

Nylon webbing - 6 feetShires recommends 3/4," Jardine says 1/2." I say,do as I did, and pick up whatever the store has instock. I used 3/4." (But bear in mind that thiswidth will determine seam widths later on.)

Tri-glide or LadderLoc adjuster - 1Size to match your webbing.

Zipper - 5 feet#5 is a good size. One could perhaps go a sizesmaller with care, but there definitely no need foranything larger. Also get a double tab slider andtwo bottom stops (more if you think you might losethese tiny parts in the carpet). A top stop isn'tabsolutely necessary, but I look at it as niceinsurance and cheap at $0.29.

Velcro - 5 inches or so, both hook and loopThis is for a loop to hold the door open when theneed arises. Entirely optional.

ThreadI got two 100 m spools of standard weight 100%polyester thread. This was just barely enough, so a250 m spool would give you a nice cushion in casesome mysteriously vanishes.

Sewing needlesApparently it's good practice to put in a freshneedle when starting a project of this type. I used asize 70 universal point and had no problems.

Seam sealer - Small tubeIf you're using silnylon a 2.8 oz tube of 100%silicone sealant, available at a hardware store, willbe more than enough. Also pick up some mineralspirits to dilute the silicone. If you've chosenurethane-coated nylon then you need to use aproduct specifically designed for sealing thisfabric, such as SeamGrip.

PolesHigh-quality Easton aluminum poles can becustom-made by TA Enterprises.

custom-made by TA Enterprises.Grommets - 2

These are sized to the tips on the ends of yourpoles.

Stakes - 6 to 10The entire tent & awning needs ten stakes.Removing the vestibule eliminates two stakes, andthe two side pull-outs aren't entirely necessary,which leaves six stakes for the bare minimum.

Guy line - 20 to 30 feetI got some thin (about 1/8") line at the hardwarestore. Twenty or thirty feet is plenty.

I bought my supplies from Outdoor Wilderness Fabrics and I wasvery pleased with their service.

IntroductionMaterials

Construction:


ConstructionPart One: RoofStep one is to lay out the two roof sections. It's important to do thiscarefully. A large flat area is essential: a ping-pong table is ideal.Make sure you understand this sequence well, because there are acouple of "gotchas."Our final goal is a tent which is 8' long, 5' across at the front, and 3'across at the back. The front is 3.5' tall, the back is 1.5' tall, and thefront corners are lifted 1' off the ground. It looks something like this:

In order to satisfy those dimensions and keep the front and backedges vertical (as they are in the drawing) we need a rather strangeshape:

However, we also need to account for the seams and hems we'll bemaking. If we didn't the tent wouldn't be ruined, but it would turn outa little smaller than we intended. The edge that will be in the ridgelineseam will need an allowance of 1.5 x the width of the finished seam(so a 1/2" seam would need a 3/4" allowance) and the edges whichwill be hemmed need an allowance of twice the width of the hem (a1/2" hem requires a 1" allowance). I laid out the four corners of thepiece to the exact dimensions above first, and then eyeballed the extrafor the allowances.

Since the center seam and the hems will havewebbing sewn to them, their size depends on thesize of your webbing. If you get 1/2" webbing,make your hems and seam to match, and thesame for 3/4" webbing. I used 1/2" seams and3/4" webbing, which was a mistake.

Now that we know all this, we're ready to lay out the pieces and cutthem. Try to lay them out so that the ridgeline edge is aligned withthe weave of the fabric, rather than cutting diagonally across it. If theridgeline isn't aligned with the weave, then when you put tension onit it'll wrinkle up like mine instead of laying flat. Your layout shouldlook something like this:

At last, we have the two roof pieces cut out and we can sew themtogether. We're going to use a flat-felled seam. If you don't knowwhat this is (I didn't before I did this project) here are someinstructions. Don't hem the edges yet; that comes later.The last bit of preparation our roof needs is to sew on somereinforcing patches, cut from our 1.9 oz uncoated nylon. These go inthe four corners and at the ends of the ridgeline and will reinforcethese high-stress areas. I used semi-circular patches with a diameterof roughly 4.5". In retrospect, they look kind of small, and I wouldsuggest a large diameter, say 6 or 7 inches. (Note: again, that'sdiameter, not radius.) Also, circular patches are hellishly difficult tosew on flat, especially with this slippery silnylon. Henry Shires usesrectangular patches which would probably be quite a bit easier toattach and work just as well. Whatever the shape of your patches,when you sew them on remember to leave room for the hems. Thehems are made by folding over the fabric twice and we want thesecond fold to overlap the patch, so the extra room you leave shouldbe the same as the allowance you made for hem when doing thelayout. So for a 1/2" hem the patch should be set back 1" from theedge. (1" from both edges in the case of the corner patches.) Sew acouple of rows of stitches along the edge of the patch, one row about1/4" in, and the other 1/4" inside of that. Since this is uncoated nylon,you also need to seal the edges, either with a flame or seam sealer, to

you also need to seal the edges, either with a flame or seam sealer, tokeep them from fraying.


Construction:


Part Two: WallsThe mesh panels are much easier to lay out than the roof. The shapesare all simple triangles, to which we add an 8" strip on the bottom.This strip lies on the ground and keeps the bloodsuckers out. Again,we need to add a little extra for hems, etc, but not quite as much asfor the roof. Add an amount equal to the width of your hem to thetop edge of the mesh, and about 1/2" on all the other sides. Go aheadand cut out those pieces.

Don't include the roof's hem allowance in thelength of the mesh panel. Use the finisheddimensions of the roof as shown in the layoutdiagram a few steps back. The dimensions in this

diagram a few steps back. The dimensions in thisdrawing are based on those measurements, plusone inch to give a little extra material. Feel free touse these, if you trust me. ;)

Before you sew the panels onto the roof, hem the bottom edge (of themesh) by simply folding over a quarter inch or so and sewing itdown. This noseeum doesn't seem likely to unravel, but the hem willadd a bit of strength and protection and certainly won't cause anyproblems.Now we can attach the netting to the roof, beginning with the twolong side pieces. This method is complicated to explain, but notdifficult to carry out, and the finished product is strong and looksclean.First, lay the mesh panel on the top side of the roof (the top side isthe side opposite the folded-over flap of the flat-felled seam: thesmooth side) with the inner side of the panel up (the inner side is theone you folded the hem flap onto). Now fold over 1/2" of netting atthe end where you plan to begin sewing so that the fold is up. Thisextra flap will be used to sew the mesh panels together in the corner.Align the folded-over edge with a mark that is a distance the hem allowance away from the edge, align the long edge of themesh with the long edge of the roof, and begin sewing. (The pictureshould make this a lot clearer.)

As you sew, the mesh will probably stretch slightly and give you alittle more extra at the end than you had planned for. This is noproblem. Just fold it over as you did for the beginning edge (with thefold up again, and the folded edge three times the hem allowanceaway from the edge of the roof) and sew it down. This line ofstitches is really just to hold the mesh and nylon together temporarily,so you can use a long stitch length.Now in one fell swoop we're going to hem the edge of the roof andpermanently attach the mesh panel. Simply fold the edge of the roofover twice as if you were hemming it and carry the mesh with alongwith it. When the folds are complete, the mesh should lie flat againstthe underside of the roof and tuck under the hem. Run a line ofstitches along the hem, and you're done with this panel. Repeat forthe other side.

Next we sew on the rear mesh panel using the same sew-to-the-top,fold-over system. It's more complicated this time, however, becauserather than a nice long straight edge, we have to deal with cornerwhere the two roof pieces meet. It's a very awkward process, at leastfor an inexperienced sewer such as myself, and I don't have anysuggestions on how to make it go more smoothly. Just pin it well(don't worry about pin holes, since if you put them near the edge,they'll get folded inside the hem) and go slowly. Don't forget to sewfolds in the ends of the panel, as you did for the sides. These foldswill help seal out the bugs and strengthen the edges.Remember that the professionals are selling this sort of thing forhundreds of dollars, so since you're only paying $60, it's okay ifthings don't look perfect.


Construction:


Part Three: DoorLet's start by working on the zipper. Slide on the slider and zip thetwo halves together. If you bought a top stop, attach it now at the top(closed) end of the zipper. Since this zipper is going to run all theway to the top of the tent, we need to sew a small nylon extension tothe top end of it. Otherwise we'd be trying to sew the hem across theend of the zipper, and that wouldn't work well. Cut a strip of youruncoated nylon that is about four inches long and about half or three-quarters of an inch wider than the zipper. Hem all the edges byfolding them over once. Make sure that when you're finishedhemming this strip, it's just as wide as the zipper. Fold the strip overwidthwise so that the two ends meet. Now slip the top end of thezipper into the fold half an inch or so, so that zipper is "clamped"between the two ends of the strip and the strip adds an inch or so tothe length of the zipper. Sew the strip on tightly, and in the processrun some stitches up the sides of the strip to close it off.

Now you can sew the zipper to the roof. Use the fold-over methodthat I laid out in the Walls section. Be careful to leave enough of theextension flap at the top for you to sew it into the hem on the otherside of the door. In other words, if we're sewing the zipper to the"right" side of the door, we need to be able to sew the end of thatextension to the "left" side of the door.Once the extension panel is attached to the zipper and the zipper issewn into the roof, sew the zipper to the mesh side panel. I couldn'tthink up a clean way to accomplish this. Just fudge it as well as youcan.The next step is to sew the mesh door panel to the roof, using the

The next step is to sew the mesh door panel to the roof, using thesame program as before. This is also where we put in the velcroloop. One piece (hook or loop) need to stick out in front of the door,and the other behind it. By now you should be familiar enough withthe hemming process to figure out how to sew these in, so I'll justsay that one half needs to go in before you fold the hem over, and theother after. Also, you might point the hooks away from the mesh,because otherwise they'll grab it. When you sew the panel on, don'tforget to fold in the ends of the panel as you did for the side panels.In this case, the fold next to the zipper will give us a nice strong edgeto sew to the zipper tape, and the fold at the other edge will allow usto sew the door panel to its neighboring side panel.Once you've finished sewing the mesh panel to the roof, sew it to thezipper tape. The corner where the mesh follows the edge of the roofmight give you a bit of trouble, but just take it slow. Don't sew all theway down the zipper just yet. Stop a few inches past the edge of theroof. We'll finish this later.


Construction:


Part Four: SupportNow for the pulls. We have three kinds of pulls to deal with: Cornerpulls, ridgeline pulls, and middle pulls. The ridgeline pulls are thehardest, so we'll start with them.Unlike the other pulls, we have to sew the ridgeline pulls to the topof the roof. Cut off a piece of webbing long enough to start at theinward edge of the reinforcing patch, run forward along the ridgelineand off the tarp for about two inches, then fold back and overlapitself by four inches or so. In other words, the webbing will have along tail and a short tail. (You could make both the same length, but Idon't think it's necessary.) Sew the webbing down securely, usingseveral rows of stitches. Make sure that you only sew the webbing tothe ridgeline, and try not to accidentally sew the mesh panel to theroof. Both the front and the rear pulls go on the same way.

I should note that Henry Shires doesn't go to allthis trouble. He simply folds a short piece ofwebbing in half and sews it to the hem, as we'll dofor the middle pulls later on. I felt that since theridgeline pulls take the most stress, they neededto be firmly attached. Now I'm starting to wonderif it was worth the bother and if Shires' methodisn't strong enough.

The corner pulls are much simpler. Cut a piece of webbing that isabout five inches long. Fold it in half at an angle so that it makes anarrow V and then sew the ends to the underside of the hem in the

narrow V and then sew the ends to the underside of the hem in thecorner. Repeat for the other three corners.The middle pulls go in the middle of the long sides and are meant topull them out and make the tent a little roomier. They don't take muchstress, so I didn't specify that any reinforcing patches should be sewnin to back them up. The patches are primarily to prevent the roofnylon from tearing under strain, and there's no danger of that here.There is the possibility that if you try to get your tent really tight, youmight be able to yank the middle pulls off the fabric. So what I didwas to sew a three inch strip of webbing to the top side of the hemwhere I wanted to attach the pull. Then I folded the pull in a V andsewed it to the underside of the hem, sandwiching the hem betweenthe two pieces of webbing. This method seems secure.


Construction:


Part Five: Finishing touchesWell, we've done all the important steps. Just a few details left now.Start by setting up the tent. You can use whatever makeshiftarrangement you like, (I did it in the basement using paint cans as"stakes") but be sure that it's set up properly. The peak should be 42"above the ground, the two front corners should be 12" above theground, and the front should be reasonably taut, as should the rest ofthe tent.First take a look at the zipper and decide just how long you wouldlike it to be. It should extend to the ground and a few inches beyond,but it doesn't have to run all the way to edge of the mesh. It won't doany good lying on the ground and you'll just have to unzip and zipthat extra length. Once you've decided on a length mark that point.Move to the other side of the door. The mesh in this corner needs tobe sewn together to keep the bugs out. Get inside the tent and pin thetwo panels together so that they hang smoothly and slightly to theinside of the tent.

I chose not to sew the mesh panel at the foot tothe side panels. (At least, I put off the decisionuntil I have some experience with the tent.) It'snot necessary, but it might make setup a littlesimpler. Or more complicated. I don't know. If youwant to sew them to each other, now would bethe time to pin them together.

Now take the tent down, move out of the basement, and go back upto your sewing machine. To finish off the zipper, first move theslider up above your designated bottom point. ("Well, duh!" you say,but it would be such a tragedy to cut off the bottom of the zipper andtake the slider with it.) Take a bottom stop (the tiny U-shaped things)and force it over the zipper's teeth on one side. A pair of pliers helps.Once it's on all the way squeeze it with the pliers to make itpermanent. Put another on the other strip of teeth. Now you can cutoff the extra zipper tape (scissors work fine) and fuse the raw edgewith a lighter.Move to the other corner andturning the tent inside outsew thefront mesh panel to its neighbor. If there's some unsightly extra meshhanging inside the tent feel free to cut it off, but leave at least 1/4,"enough to hold the stitches. Go through the rest of the mesh panelsand hem any rough edges.

and hem any rough edges.If you plan on making the awning, then continue with the nextsection. If not, skip Part Six and go to Part Seven.


Construction:


Part Six: AwningThe awning was designed with several factors in mind in addition tosheltering the front of the tent and the ground immediately in front ofit. It can be pitched to allow air to flow between it and the tent,increasing ventilation. It is also adjustable to allow for the use of astick rather than an aluminum pole for the front support. After whatyou've already done, the awning will be a breeze.The basic shape is two isosceles triangles sewn together along onelong side. A chunk taken out of the top of the ridgeline will allow theawning to pass around the front pole of the tent. Lay out two pieceswith the raw dimensions below. Again, make sure to line up one ofthe long sides of each piece with the weave of the fabric and use thatside for the ridgeline when you sew the two pieces together. Add aseam allowance where the two will be sewn together (using a flat-felled seam) and a hem allowance on the other two sides. See theroof layout section for a refresher on what to make these allowances.

Set up your tent again, making sure that the front guy hits the groundabout four and one half to five feet in front of the tent. Take one ofthe awning pieces and clip its ridgeline edge to the front guy of thetent using clothespins. Overlap the awning onto the roof by aboutfive inches. The overlap should be more or less even all the waydown to the edge of the roof, and the awning should hang down alittle further than the roof. This overlap keeps rain from passingbetween the roof and the awning. At the top corner of the awning,mark where the awning flops over the ridgeline. This is the chunkyou're going to cut out. It needs to be big enough to allow the awningto maintain a few inches of overlap even when the tent pole issticking up through the gap in the awning. When the awning isfinished and folded over the front guyline, the two corners made bythe missing chunk will meet and touch each other. Transfer the markyou just made over to the other piece and chop off those chunks.The first hem you should make is the shortest edge, newly created bythe cutting of the chunk. Once that edge is hemmed on both pieces,sew them together using a flat-felled seam. Make sure to make thesmooth side of the seam (the side opposite the flopped-over piece)the top side, as this makes the seam easier to seal. Hem the other twoedges.

edges.The awning attaches to the tent itself only at the apex. Regarding theother three corners, two are guyed to their own stakes and oneattaches to the tent's front guyline. We'll finish the apex attachmentfirst and we start by sewing a webbing tail onto the apex of theawning. Cut a piece of webbing that is as long as your awning'soverlap plus two or three inches. Grab the two corners next to thecenter gap in the awning and bring them together, putting one on topof the other. Sew one end of the webbing to these corners so theother end hangs away from the awning. This will serve as theattachment to the body of the tent.Now we make an attachment point on the roof of the tent to receivethat webbing tail. You can use either a tri-glide or a LadderLocadjuster. Both attach in more or less the same way.Set up the tent, if it's not already erected, and drape the awning overthe front guyline. Spread out the awning's two wings and attach themto the sides of the roof with clothespins. The awning should be setup with the maximum overlap possible. Make a mark on the ridgelineof the tent right at the edge of the awning. Take down the tent. Cut ashort length of webbing and loop it through the attachment point ofyour tri-glide or adjuster. (The adjuster will have a specificattachment bar; for the tri-glide loop the webbing through the middlebar from underneath.) Sew the webbing loop to the top of theridgeline, making sure that the attachment is on the far side of themark, i.e. it won't interfere with the awning even at maximumoverlap.Sew the three other pulls onto the awning following the sameprocedure as for the corner pulls on the main tent. To set up theawning, you thread the webbing tail through the attachment point onthe roof, adjusting it for maximum overlap. The two side corners getguyed out beside the tent and the front corner ties off to a loop in thefront guy or to the front guy's peg. For more ventilation, the wings ofthe awning can be guyed further away from the roof, or they can bebattened down tight against it. You could even tie one wing up in theair if you didn't need 360 protection.


Construction:


Part Seven: The End!The final step is to seal the seams. The hems are right at the edge ofthe roof and therefore don't really have to be sealed. The ridgeline isthe seam that needs our attention. Set up the tent so that the ridgelineis stretched nice and flat, with the top side up. In a paper cup, mix acouple teaspoons of mineral spirits with a good dollop of silicone.Stir the mixture until it's smooth. If need be, adjust it by addingmineral spirits or silicone until the sealant isn't quite liquid. The exactconsistency isn't that important. It just needs to be watery enough tosoak into the stitches. Use a small foam brush to paint a stripe ofsealent down the ridgeline. Give the ridgeline pullouts a goodsoaking. The sealant will look awfully shiny at first, but once it driesit's not so bad. If you wish, you can give it a second coat. After it'scured (let it sit overnight) sprinkle it with some talcum powder tomake it a little less sticky.That's it! I hope your tarptent serves you well, and that you enjoyedits creation, despite my attempt to fill your mind with clouds ofbuzzing details. If only the noseeum mesh could keep them out!Printable version

Printable version 2002 by Benjamin Miller. "Tarptent" is a trademark of HenryShires.Last updated March 1, 2002.

A HOMEMADE TARPTENTContributed by: David Spellman (for Ken Koebele), 3/23/00

These are the photos that Ken Koebele asked me to scan for him of atent-like structure he made from a Campmor SilNylon tarp -- Ibelieve the 10'x12' version. He's whacked a lot off the original tarp, asyou can see. The tarp now measures 7.5' wide and 10' long. He's usingtwo hiking poles in an inverted V, coupled by a hose connector (?) andplaced about 2.5 feet back from the front of the tent to provideinterior structure. He ties the poles to ties on the underside of thefabric to prevent them from slipping.

The front of the tent has grommets at the corners and at the center, and anadditional two grommets about 16" on either side of the centerline. For asquare opening, he uses those two grommets to a high tie-off (see the photowith two poles at the front of the tent). For a triangular "door", use thecenter grommet to a high tie-off on a single pole. To close the front off, he'stied off the two "square opening" grommets either together, or to a lowposition on the front post and folds the material over. Then he ties off thecenter grommet to the corner grommet on either side. He notes that you canincreast headroom in the tent by raising the "tail", but you reduce width.There are several nice things about the design. For starters, it makes a nicefloorless tent that should have very little splashback during a serious rain.Second, with the addition of a ridgeline, it could also be a pretty large, prettygeneral tarp if you want more air.I don't know what his final weights are -- he can tell you that.

Homemade Silk LinerMaking a silk sleeping bag liner is a pretty straight forward project.Start by going to your local fabric store to buy some silk fabric. Ifound some at JoAnn Etc. There was a section with "Silk Solids" forabout $2.99 per yard - 72" width. If you're a small to medium sizeperson you can probably get by using a folded 72" width section ofsilk, otherwise you'll have to buy twice as much silk. Buy about 2

silk, otherwise you'll have to buy twice as much silk. Buy about 2and 1/4 yards of silk, or more if you're taller. This should cost youabout $7 to $8.

Once you have bought the silk, fold it in half. With a chalk pencil orjust a pen, mark out the desired shape and then pin it up for sewing.Using the sharpest cissors you can find, cut out your pattern. Then

using some polyester thread (if available) sew two or three stitches into the edge ofthe cut. You should now have a nice silk bag. Turn the bag inside out to hide thestitch. Then if you want, sew back the top of the bag so the material doesn'tunravel.

The silk liner that I made for myself weighs about 4 oz.which is far less than the typical 6-7 oz. store bought silksleeping bag liner and at a fraction of the cost! Plus, youcan't beat the fact that I found some bright green silk! ;)

Last Revised: 02/05/2002 Written By: Jeff Walters E-mail: hiker_jjw(at)yahoo(dot)com

make your own bag

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