maganjo institute of career education reference material ... ; definition ,forms... · hair hair...

Maganjo Institute of career EducationReference material for beauty and cosmetology

DefinitionDefinitionDefinition

Definition

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and

formsformsforms

forms

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of

elasticityelasticityelasticity

elasticity

Elasticity is the ability of a deformed material body to return to its original shapeand size when the forces causing the deformation are removed. A body with this ability is said to behave (or respond)elastically.

To a greater or lesser extent, most solid materials exhibit elastic behaviour, but there is a limit to the magnitude of theforce and the accompanying deformation within which elastic recovery is possible for any given material. This limit,called the elastic limit, is the maximum stress or force per unit area within a solid material that can arise before theonset of permanent deformation. Stresses beyond the elastic limit cause a material to yield or flow. For such materialsthe elastic limit marks the end of elastic behaviour and the beginning of plastic behaviour. For most brittle materials,stresses beyond the elastic limit result in fracture with almost no plastic deformation.

CurlyCurlyCurly

Curly

HairHairHair

Hair

TypesTypesTypes

Types

Finding the products that will best suit your hair is simplified with the Blended Beauty hair types chart. The hair typesare grouped, and listed under each group are products just right for that group of curls. Just find curls similar to yoursand choose from the products listed!

WhyWhyWhy

Why

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is

youryouryour

your

hairhairhair

hair

curlycurlycurly

curly

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and

whywhywhy

why

areareare

are

theretherethere

there

differentdifferentdifferent

different

typestypestypes

types

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of

curls?curls?curls?

curls?

Hair curls based on the chemical bonds it has. The protein keratin makes up the hair shaft and it is made of aminoacids. Long chains of amino acids form a helical structure. These structures will wrap around each other forming thehair shaft. One of the amino acids within the chains is called cysteine, which carries a sulphur group. These groupscreate sulphur bonds between the chains, causing bending of the protein. And the more sulphur bonds a hair shaft has,the more bending there will be and the more curly it is.


Different parts of your scalp can grow hair with more or less sulpher bonds, creating more than one hair type on yourhead. The texture of the curl depends on the contents of the hair cortex. The cortex is made of ortho cortex and paracortex. Para cortex is strong, durable and shiny. Ortho cortex is more porous, less durable, and more bendable. Curlyhair has more ortho cortex, and the amount present can greatly affect the hair type. The more ortho cortex the hair has,the more textured it is and the more fragile it is. This is why curly hair needs more TLC and can be easily damaged.

CurlsCurlsCurls

Curls

andandand

and

WavesWavesWaves

Waves

RecommendedRecommendedRecommended

Recommended

ProductsProductsProducts

Products

All-in-One Style/Moisturize/Defrizz: Light Styling Lotion Defrizz/Style/Soft Hold: Curly Frizz Pudding Moisturize: All Natural Hair Oil (hot oil treatment) SilkShake Cleansing/Conditioning: Soy Cream Shampoo, Quenching Conditioner, Cleansing Conditioner, HerbalReconditioner.


ForForFor

For

KidsKidsKids

Kids

&&&

&

SensitiveSensitiveSensitive

Sensitive

ScalpsScalpsScalps

Scalps

All-in-One Style/Moisturize/Defrizz: Light Down & Out Defrizz/Style/Soft Hold: Jelly Cream Cleansing/Conditioning: Silky Swirls Shampoo, Tug Me Not Conditioner Refreshing/Detangling: Satin Style Spritz Curly Cake Shake Moisturize: Soft Curls & Swirls Curly Cake Shake


CupidCupidCupid

Cupid

CurlsCurlsCurls

Curls


Recommended


Products

All-in-One Style/Moisturize/Defrizz: Styling Lotion, Light Styling Lotion Defrizz/Style/Soft Hold: Curly Frizz Pudding Moisturize: Soft Curls & Swirls, All Natural Hair Oil (hot oil treatment) SilkShake Cleansing/Conditioning: Soy Cream Shampoo, Quenching Conditioner, Cleansing Conditioner, HerbalReconditioner .

Refreshing/Detangling: Kick For Curls SilkShake


ForForFor

For

KidsKidsKids

Kids

&&&

&


Sensitive

ScalpsScalpsScalps

Scalps

All-in-One Style/Moisturize/Defrizz: Light Down & Out Defrizz/Style/Soft Hold: Jelly Cream Cleansing/Conditioning: Silky Swirls Shampoo, Tug Me Not Conditioner Refreshing/Detangling: Satin Style Spritz Curly Cake Shake Moisturize: Soft Curls & Swirls Curly Cake Shake


SpiralSpiralSpiral

Spiral

CurlsCurlsCurls

Curls


Recommended


Products

All-in-One Style/Moisturize/Defrizz: Styling Lotion, Styling Butter Cream Defrizz/Style/Soft Hold: Curly Frizz Pudding Moisturize: Butter Me Up!, Soft Curls & Swirls, All Natural Hair Oil (hot oil treatment) SilkShake Cleansing/Conditioning: Soy Cream Shampoo, Quenching Conditioner, Cleansing Conditioner, Herbal Reconditioner. Refreshing/Detangling: Kick For Curls SilkShake


ForForFor

For

KidsKidsKids

Kids

&&&

&


Sensitive

ScalpsScalpsScalps

Scalps

All-in-One Style/Moisturize/Defrizz: Down & Out Styles, Light Down & Out Moisturize: Butter Me Up!, Soft Curls & Swirls, All Natural Hair Oil Curly Cake Shake Defrizz/Style/Soft Hold: Jelly Cream Cleansing/Conditioning: Silky Swirls Shampoo, Tug Me Not Conditioner Refreshing/Detangling: Satin Style Spritz Curly Cake Shake


CorkscrewCorkscrewCorkscrew

Corkscrew

CurlsCurlsCurls

Curls


Recommended


Products

All-in-One Style/Moisturize/Defrizz: Styling Butter Cream Defrizz/Style/Soft Hold: Curly Frizz Pudding Moisturize: Butter Me Up, All Natural Hair Oil SilkShake Cleansing/Conditioning: Soy Cream Shampoo, Quenching Conditioner, Cleansing Conditioner, HerbalReconditioner.



ForForFor

For

KidsKidsKids

Kids

&&&

&


Sensitive

ScalpsScalpsScalps

Scalps

All-in-One Style/Moisturize/Defrizz: Down & Out Styles Moisturize: Butter Me Up, All Natural Hair Oil Curly Cake Shake Defrizz/Style/Soft Hold: Jelly Cream Cleansing/Conditioning: Silky Swirls Shampoo, Tug Me Not Conditioner Refreshing/Detangling: Satin Style Spritz Curly Cake Shake


AfroAfroAfro

Afro

CurlsCurlsCurls

Curls


Recommended


Products

All-in-One Style/Moisturize/Defrizz: Happy Nappy Styles Defrizz/Style/Soft Hold: Curly Frizz Pudding Moisturize: Butter Me Up, All Natural Hair Oil SilkShake Cleansing/Conditioning: Soy Cream Shampoo, Quenching Conditioner, Cleansing Conditioner, HerbalReconditioner.



ForForFor

For

KidsKidsKids

Kids

&&&

&


Sensitive

ScalpsScalpsScalps

Scalps

All-in-One Style/Moisturize/Defrizz: Down & Out Styles Moisturize: Butter Me Up, All Natural Hair Oil Curly Cake Shake Defrizz/Style/Soft Hold: Jelly Cream Cleansing/Conditioning: Silky Swirls Shampoo, Tug Me Not Conditioner Refreshing/Detangling: Satin Style Spritz Curly Cake Shake


RelaxedRelaxedRelaxed

Relaxed

HairHairHair

Hair


Recommended


Products

Setting/Blow Drying: Straightening Glaze for some hold, SilkShake for softness Defrizz/Style/Moisturize: Straigt Pearl, Soft Curls & Swirls, All Natural Hair Oil To Wear Curly/Wavy: Curly Frizz Pudding, Styling Lotion. Cleansing/Conditioning: Soy Cream Shampoo, Quenching Conditioner, Cleansing Conditioner,HerbalReconditioner.


TwistsTwistsTwists

Twists

&&&

&

LocsLocsLocs

Locs


Recommended


Products

All-in-One Style/Moisturize/Defrizz: Styling Butter, Styling Lotion, Happy Nappy Styles Defrizz/Style/Soft Hold: Curly Frizz Pudding Moisturize: Butter Me Up, All Natural Hair Oil SilkShake Cleansing/Conditioning: Soy Cream Shampoo, Quenching Conditioner, Cleansing Conditioner, HerbalReconditioner, Volcanic Clean Mask.



ForForFor

For

KidsKidsKids

Kids

&&&

&


Sensitive

ScalpsScalpsScalps

Scalps

All-in-One Style/Moisturize/Defrizz: Light Down & Out Moisturize: Butter Me Up, All Natural Hair Oil Curly Cake Shake Defrizz/Style/Soft Hold: Jelly Cream Cleansing/Conditioning: Silky Swirls Shampoo, Tug Me Not Conditioner Refreshing/Detangling: Satin Style Spritz Curly Cake Shake


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ExceptionExceptionException

Exception

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exception

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to

thethethe

the

rule!rule!rule!

rule!

Usually the looser the curl, the less textured the hair and the softer it is. But that is not always the case. This is a perfectexample of loose curl with highly textured hair. It is thick, fairly course and dry, but has big loose curls and waves. Soeach hair type can come in different textures. Sometimes type 4 hair can be very fine and silky, with super tight kinks.

This eg. is a textured BB1 but would use product from the BB3 group.


CurlyCurlyCurly

Curly

HairHairHair

Hair

RulesRulesRules

Rules

Curly hair is a blessing in disguise. You can get the largest variety of looks, if you have the time to straighten your hair.If not, curl control is important. Curls made a big comeback, but making them look good is another story. Sometimesthe tangling and blow-drying is enough stress to keep your curly locks frizzy for a while. Follow some of these rules,but for the best results using a diffuser as opposed to a blow dryer is recommended.

Always use a good shampoo and conditioner. The more you touch your root, the frizzier it can get. Treat yourself oncea month, if possible, to a deep conditioning treatment. It helps control your ends, and replenish what the harsh dailywear takes out.

Take heed if you want to go Blonde or a Platinum Blonde: stripping your hair of its natural color to go lighter makes itdry, and your curls will turn limp and dry.

Use a big toothed comb or a pick when combing out your wet hair. Most of the damage happens when your hair iswet, so use a sealer like BC Bonnicures Sealed Ends, before and after you blow-dry. It helps with split ends and frizzyhair.

Don't forget your 8-12 week hair cut appointment. Most hairstylists want to help you. A good stylist will be cuttingyour curly hair with your own curl formation which is the easiest and cheapest way to keep your curly

http://www.beautyden.com/curlyhairrules.shtml


MethodsMethodsMethods

Methods

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of

curlingcurlingcurling

curling

BuildingBuildingBuilding

Building

aaa

a

BetterBetterBetter

Better

CurlCurlCurl

Curl

An amazing amount of time, effort and money are spent each year by women who want to add curl to straight hair(or add more curl to the wave they already have). Most women find a method of doing so that they are comfortablewith and stick with it, even when the results are less satisfying than they had hoped.

Women who try various methods to curl their hair for styling purposes soon learn that some methods work betterand produce longer-lasting curl than others. Usually, the length of time the curl will last increases with the amount oftime it takes to create the curl. This makes some methods unsuitable for some women, particularly those who need tostyle their hair quickly as part of their daily routine.

So, we’re going to take a look at the various methods of curling the hair, the results that you can expect, and thepros and cons for each method. It should be noted, however that these methods can be made more and less effectiveby the type of styling product used or the lack thereof, respectively. A wet set on rollers that is heat dried will producelonger-lasting and firmer curls when you add in a gel styling product for maximum hold than when you simply wrapthe roller set with water.

As you’ve heard explained before, the wavewavewave

wave

patternpatternpattern

pattern

ofofof

of

thethethe

the

hairhairhair

hair

is held in place by the side bonds in the hair. Thethree types of side bonds are divided into two categories: physical side bonds and chemical side bonds. The physical


side bonds are salt bonds and hydrogen bonds and are easily broken by the application of heat and moisture (water)to the hair. These are the bonds that are affected by the curling methods we will be discussing. The chemical sidebonds are disulfide bonds and are only broken through chemical processes like perms and straighteners. None of themethods we discuss here will have any effect on the chemical side bonds of the hair.

RollerRollerRoller

Roller

Sets:Sets:Sets:

Sets:

We start our list of curling methods with the heat-dried rollerrollerroller

roller

setsetset

set

. This process uses bothheat and moisture and therefore breaks more of both types of physical side bond in the stylingprocess. Heat and moisture can each break both of the types of physical side bond. Using oneor the other usually breaks sufficient side bonds to allow you to alter the hair’s wave pattern.

Using both heat and moisture means that more of the physical side bonds are broken (and subsequently reformed)which accounts for the extra-strong curl created.

When you wrap wet (or freshly shampooed) hair around a roller the water has already broken a large portion of theside bonds. Wrapping the hair around the tool positions it into the shape of curl you want to have, and you have awide range of sizes from which to choose. You can even mix and match roller sizes to create more natural lookingwave patterns. When you place the wrapped hair under the dryer, you add heat to the process which breaks additionalbonds which may not have broken previously. As the hair dries, most of the bonds that were broken begin to reform inthe new shape. Once the hair is dry, you allow the rollers to cool completely which completes the reformation of theside bonds and gives you very strong curls that will last until your hair gets wet again.

The cooling step is just as important as any other step in this process. It is also very important that the hair be fullydry before taking down the rollers. This means that, for some women especially, a heat dried roller set can take a


considerable length of time. A well-practiced woman with shoulder length hair can probably wrap her hair on rollers in30-40 minutes, depending on the number of rollers she uses. This can take longer if her hair is particularly dense,because she will need to use more rollers.

The drying step is equally time-consuming. It would take an average of 45-50 minutes to dry normaldensity hair of shoulder length in a roller set. More dense hair, or hair wrapped on fewer rollers thannormal would take longer because of the thickness of the hair layer around the rollers.

All totaled, a roller set can take between 2-3 hours to complete. However, during the drying time, you can either relaxor perform other simple tasks to get ready. This is a good use of the time if you are getting ready for a function. Inaddition, you can expect the style to hold for several days (or until the next shampooing) under ideal conditions. Manywomen who have curly hairstyles love roller sets because they can get their hair done, and with a little “freshening up”each morning, have a style that will carry them through the week.

CurlingCurlingCurling

Curling

Irons:Irons:Irons:

Irons:

Adding curl with a curling iron is typically easier and simpler than performing a wet roller set because: A) the hair isdry when curled, and B) the curl can be added where desired, allowing you to add as much or as little as you want. Awoman with shoulder-length hair of normal densitydensitydensity

density

who wanted to add all-over curls with a curling iron wouldprobably spend about and hour to an hour-and-a-half doing so – more, if her hair is denser than normal.

To create the curl, the curling iron uses heat to break the physical side bonds and reshape the wave pattern as thehair is wrapped around the heated barrel of the curling iron. When the iron is removed and the curl is allowed to coolcompletely (an important step) the side bonds reform in the new wave pattern. The curls created this way arereasonably strong, especially when strong-hold styling products are used in the process.


Curling irons are now available in many barrel sizes and shapes to allow the creation of everything from pencil-thincurls to large, soft waves and even geometrically-shaped coils. On the downside, adding curl with a curling iron is alabor-intensive process that requires careful attention as you do it to avoid scorching, singeing or downright burningthe hair. The use of curling irons and flat irons are the most common causes of heat-styling damage to the hair. Theuse of conditioning agents designed to protect against this type of damage are always recommended.

As for the longevity of curling-iron curls, they don’t tend to hold up as well as roller sets. This is especially true withlonger hair. The curls tend to go flat as the day wears on, and usually need to be redone if you want the style tocontinue into the evening after a day at work.

HotHotHot

Hot

Rollers:Rollers:Rollers:

Rollers:

Many women cheered when the first hot rollers were marketed. Finally, there was a tool that allowed women to usea familiar method of adding curl (rollers) without the time requirements of a traditional wet set. The hot rollers couldbe used to add curl where desired, just like a curling iron, but were much less likely to result in burns on the scalp andfingers.

Of course, it did take a few mishaps for some women to get the hang of letting the hot rollers cool completelybefore removing them. Because the hot rollers create curl by using heat to break the side bonds, failing to let therollers cool completely meant that when the rollers were removed and the curls were still warm the weight of the hairpulled the curls right out. However, the waiting period for cooling meant that the woman could put the hot rollers in,apply her make-up or continue getting dressed, and finish styling her hair once she was done and the rollers hadcooled completely. It was a convenient and time-saving addition to the styling routine.

On the downside, the curls created with the hot rollers tend to be much softer and much less strong than the curlscreated with other methods. There is also the fact that, in general, curls created with hot rollers tend to loosen more


quickly than curling irons, especially in warmer, more humid environments. But for those hairstyles that call for a soft,romantic look, hot rollers can be ideal. Even if the curls don’t survive for evening wear, the ease of use makes restoringthe curl a simple matter.

StylingStylingStyling

Styling

Products:Products:Products:

Products:

All of the methods above can be made more effective with the use of styling products. Different products arebetter suited to various styling methods, and can help to customize the type, strength and longevity of the curl youdesire by simply choosing the right product.

StylingStylingStyling

Styling

Gels:Gels:Gels:

Gels:

Styling gels are thick, usually-greaseless and somewhat-sticky products which are applied to damp hair beforedrying the hair, or to help make wrapping hair onto a roller for a wet set easier. In roller sets, styling gel produces veryfirm curls which are often hard, and require breaking up before the hair can be brushed. For use with curling irons andhot rollers, styling gel must be applied to wet hair and dried before the heated tools are used. However, the gel givesthe hair more substance and helps make the curls created more durable and stronger.

Mousses:Mousses:Mousses:

Mousses:

Mousses are usually foamy substances that give a softer finish to the curls. It can be used on damp hair whenwrapping a roller set, or applied prior to drying for hair that will be heat styled. It helps to create longer-lasting curlsthat are still soft to the touch and easier to style. It’s ideal for those who want a soft-looking style, but won’t hold a curlas long as styling gel.


HairHairHair

Hair

Sprays:Sprays:Sprays:

Sprays:

In a wet set, hairspray is reserved for use after the hair has been dried and cooled on the rollers. Once the curls arecombed out and the hair configured into the desired style, hairspray is applied to hold the finished style and help itstay in place. However, hairspray becomes a more active part of curl creation when using curling irons and hot rollers.By applying a light mist of hairspray to the hair prior to wrapping the hair around the curling iron or onto the hotrollers, the hairspray helps to bond the hairs together and create stronger curl. This adhesion means that the curl froma curling iron will hold together better while it cools, making the curl firmer and longer-lasting. The spray is then alsoused to add extra hold to the finished style after curl is added.

Hopefully, this information may help some women make more informed choices about how they curl their hair.Most of the time the choice of method is dependent on the amount of time available in the daily routine, but once youunderstand the pros and cons of each method, as well as what kind of results to expect, you may decide to try adifferent method. And if you’re not happy with the results you’re getting with the method you currently use, maybeadding one or more of the styling products listed in the appropriate manner will give you results you can be happywith.

Stacy - Stylist

http://www.hairfinder.com/info/buildingcurl3

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