m1 helmet restoration

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M1 Helmet Restoration by Bryn Spawton

As promised, the step-by-step illustrated guide to refinishing your WWII M1 helmet. This is not a "do it in a day" process.

Although the amount of work involved probably totals no more than three hours, it is best done over about a week. Patience

has its rewards.

Materials needed

Nitro Mors (or similar) paint remover and suitable large brush. Approximately 4 or 5 tins of Humbrol No 155 or equivelant

model enamel (not acrylic). A bag of Javis or Stockport Model Railway Scatter No 30 "SAND" Ref:JS30 or similar (actually very,

very, finely ground cork). Semi stiff, half inch oil painting brush. Something to stand the helmet on. Small glass container.

First step is to completely strip the helmet shell of paint, wire wool it, and bang any major dents out.

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Next, the whole helmet is given a flat coat of the Humbrol 155. Make sure the paint is well stirred, poor it into a glass or

ceramic jar. The paint dries much flatter if you thin it slightly with spirit. I did the inside first, then, when that was touch dry

(about three hours), painted the outside. Start from the crown. working downwards in a spiral motion to the rim. It's actually

better to have slightly too much paint on the brush, rather than not enough. Brush out excess as you go. Once finished, leave

to dry for at least 24 hours (if you try to apply new paint before this, the solvents in it will soften the first coat under it, and

lead to dragging). The next day, apply a second coat, inside and out, then leave to dry for another 24 hours. Obviously, I hand

paint mine, but these stages could be done using a spray gun.

For the cork texture, put a whole tin of the humbrol paint into a clean glass container (with glass you can see it's clean, and

you don't want anything but cork in the paint). Add scatter, until you achieve a kind of watery paste. Now stipple on the

mixture, again, starting at the crown and working around. This stage, I am afraid, has to be done by hand to get the best

results. You can control the amount of cork going on, and adjust accordingly. If the brush starts to become clogged, squeeze

the excess cork out of it using an old rag. You may want to practice on another surface first, to get your technique going.



With the whole of the ouside corked, gently run your finger under the rim to remove any cork granules which may have gotten

under there. Obviously, don't texture the inside, and don't worry about any loose looking bits on the surface, because the next

stage deals with them. Allow another 24 hours to dry, and make sure you clean all the crud out of the brush.

With the corked surface dry, rub over the whole outer surface with your bare hand to remove any loose cork. Any bits which

stick out too far can be picked off with the fingernail.



The outside of the helmet now needs between three and four further flat coats to soften the texture somewhat. Don't forget to

leave 24 hours between coats again.

This is what the texture should look like now.



Leave the helmet to thoroughly dry for a couple of days, then spray lightly, inside and out, with WD40. Allow to sit for a few

minutes, then rub the excess off with a sponge or soft cloth. Keep rubbing around the shell until you are sure the WD40 has

dried off, and you have a uniform appearance all over. This has two effects. It will give the finish the semi-matt appearance

which the original paint had when new, and it also darkens the paint nicely.



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