m05 weft knitting technologies i sw
DESCRIPTION
Knitting TechnologyTRANSCRIPT
M. Weber
M05 Weft Knitting Technologies – State of the Art I
Content
Stitch formation, needle arrangements, cams (CD)Loop drawing – needle notationNeedle selectionFlat knitting machine parametersFlat knitting pattern
M. Weber
Loop drawing – needle notation
Please draw the needle notation for the following pattern:
2
1
M. Weber
Loop drawing – needle notation
Please draw the needle notation for the following pattern:
4
3
2
1
M. Weber
Loop drawing – needle notation
Please draw the needle notation for the following pattern:
6
5
4
3
2
1
M. Weber
Loop drawing – needle notation
Please draw the needle notation for the following pattern:
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
1
M. Weber
Loop drawing – needle notation
Please draw the needle notation for the following pattern:
3
2
1
M. Weber
Loop drawing – needle notation
e. g. Half Cardigan
21
21
M. Weber
Loop drawing – needle notation
e. g. Half Cardigan
21
21
2
1
2
1
References: Weber: Wirkerei und Strickerei. DFV 2007
M. Weber
Parameters of Flat Knitting Machines
1. Machine gauge, 2 – 20 E , E = needles per inch2. Yarn count in dtex / Nm
3. Area of needles, e. g. automatic flat knitting machine: 1,30 m – 3,05 m
4. Number of systems, 1 – 6 systems, (6 systems = 12 cams)5. Speed of carriage, up to 1,30 m/s
Glove and toe sock machines have different parameters, which changedepending on gauge and size.
[E] 2 2,5 3 3,5 4 5 7 8 10 12 dtex 7500 6667 5556 5000 3848 2843 1623 1422 972 871 Nm 6x16/2 6x18/2 5x18/2 6x24/2 5x24/2 4x24/2 2x22/2 2x24/2 2x36/2 1x24/2 6x34/2 4x34/2 2x28/2 2x34/2 1x24/2 2x44/2 [E] 14 16 18 20 dtex 607 373 318 250 Nm 1x28/2 1x48/2 1x54/2 1x80/2 2x40/1 1x54/2 1x60/2
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Yarn Count vs. Machine Gauge
0
1000
2000
3000
4000
5000
6000
7000
8000
9000
0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20
1,14 g/ccmPolyamide
1,17 g/ccmPolyacryl
1,36 g/ccmPolyester
1,32 g/ccmWool
1,52 g/ccmCotton
gauge
dtexNm
6x 16/2
6x 24/2
2x 28/228/2
M. Weber
Cellulosics 27%
PES 27%
PA 15%
Acryl 23%
Other Synthetics
WO1,4%
CO31%
Cellulosics4,6%
Acryl 2,5%
PA 5 %
PES48%
Others
PP 7,6 %
References: C. Edward Hayes:Textile Market Research NY/USA; IVC, Frankfurt/Germany; Fiber Organon, Arlington, VA/USAIn: Man-Made Fiber Year Book 2011 p. 4-12
Fibre Production - Faser ProduktionWorld Germany
M. Weber
Technical
Apparel
Home + Carpet
Classification of Textile Application –Anwendungen textiler Produkte
World Germany
Home + Carpet
Apparel
Technical
References: C. Edward Hayes:Textile Market Research NY/USA; IVC, Frankfurt/Germany; Fiber Organon, Arlington, VA/USAIn: Man-Made Fiber Year Book 2011 p. 4-12
55 %
M. Weber
Patterns of flat knitting
1. Cuff, border structures, starts
2. Cam setting only
- structural elements - stitch/ tuck/ float, e. g. (double) full cardigan, (double) half cardigan, knob, roll welt, Jacquards
3. Transfer/increase of stitches or tucks
e. g. Petinet, à jour, pelerine, Jacquards
4. Yarn carrier technology
- Stripes (colour change), striper technology
- Plating, intarsia, pile fabric or plush, weft
5. Needle bed racking
- Racking without transfer (stitch, tuck), e. g. racked welt,racked cardigan every (2nd) course
- Racking with transfer (stitch, tuck), e. g. Aran, cable stitch
6. Needle hook size and machine gauge, e. g. Multigauge®
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Starts
1. Without start, only pattern design
2. 1 x 1 (half racked)
3. 2 x 1 (without racking)
4. 2 x 2 (half racked)
5. Tubular (without racking)
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Starts
6. Start with pick-up (reed) 7. Start with no pick-up (holding down sinker )
source: Stoll M1 Plus
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Production technologies of flat knitting
1. Conventional knitting (26 steps)
- Front and back knitting, steaming, separating, cutting (8)
- Sleeves knitting, steaming, separating, cutting (8)
- Collar knitting, steaming, separating (3)
- shoulder seams, sleeves linking, side seams, collar linking,neatening of yarns, labelling, final inspection (7)
2. Fully Fashion (22 steps)
Cutting is not necessary
3. Integral knitting of whole garments (4 steps)
Whole garment knitting, neatening of yarns, labelling, steaming, final inspection
4. Gloves and toe socks
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Colour Jacquard
Front Backing
source: Stoll M1 Plus
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Double Face
Colour Jacquard backings
Horizontal stripe backing
Birds eye backing
Vertical stripe backing
Ladder backing
Single Face
Float backing
2-Colour 3-Colour 4-Colour etc
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Ladder full
Ladder 1 x 1
2-Colour Jacquard ladder backings
source: Stoll M1 Plus
M. Weber
Ladder 1 x 2
Ladder 1 x 3
2-Colour Jacquard ladder backings
source: Stoll M1 Plus