lt version - rjrtractor.com · the warranty for all parts in this kit, including the transaxle, is...

This Instruction Manual has been Prepared and Copyrighted1 © by:

RJR Tractor LLC

1/26/2011

142 Hatley Road Pullman, WA 99163

Phone: 877.333.8811 ● [email protected]

Ver. 10.3 (8/18/2017)

1 All Rights Reserved

LT Version

mailto:[email protected]

2

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

“John Deere” is the registered trademark of Deere & Co. This Manual and Kit have no connection with the “John Deere”, Deere & Co., or

any affiliated John Deere dealers.

RJR Tractor LLC is not a John Deere dealer.

This Manual and Kit have no connection with the Tuff Torq Company.

A Special Thanks to:

Henry Garcia Thomas Nolan

Brent Cox Philip Ritchie Peter Basten Kevin Rogers Michael Flynn

For their help and patience in developing this kit.

COPYRIGHT NOTICE: This Manual and all Revisions are copyrighted © by RJR Tractor LLC, Pullman, WA, USA, Sept 1, 2010. It may not be copied, in whole or in part,

without the express written permission of the copywriter.

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

All details and procedures in this manual are believed to be accurate and safe, but are not guaranteed to be so. In all cases, good judgment by the

owner/installer is required.

3

INTRODUCTION

This instruction manual is intended as a “Do-It-Yourself” project for people

of average mechanical ability. If you do not have these skills, it is

recommended that you seek the assistance of someone you trust that can

help you complete the project. There is no guarantee of performance or

ease of installation.

DO NOT attempt to install this kit if you are unsure of your abilities.

WARRANTY

The warranty for all parts in this kit, including the transaxle, is provided

by RJR Tractor LLC. Our warranty is provided to the original Upgrade Kit

purchaser and is not transferable.

Warranties are NOT provided by John Deere or Tuff Torq.

This kit will void the warranty on your John Deere tractor, if one still exists.

DO NOT expect John Deere to assist with any warranty issues.

We will warranty your parts as serviceable for the intended purpose for

sixty days from the date of purchase. If any parts in the kit are defective,

upon return of the part, we will replace it with a like part, if available, or

refund to you our documented purchase price for the part.

Since this is a DIY project and there are a variety of unknown variables, we

cannot guarantee the performance or outcome of the conversion.

SUITABILITY

The responsibility to determine if this kit and conversion is suitable and

safe for your application is totally up to you.

There is no guarantee or warranty regarding suitability or safety of use. If

you determine this kit is not suitable for your purposes, you may return it,

within thirty days after purchase, for a full refund, providing nothing has

been installed or otherwise used. The kit must be returned in entirety,

partial returns are not permitted.

HELP and ASSISTANCE

We are always pleased to assist you in installing this kit. If you run into a

problem you can’t solve or need help, feel free to send us an email or

phone: (8am - 8pm PACIFIC TIME)

Email: [email protected] Telephone: 877-333-8811 (toll-free)


4

As with any project where you are working on machinery and using tools,

the possibility of injury or death is always present. This upgrade kit is no

different.

DO NOT ATTEMPT TO INSTALL THIS KIT IF YOU HAVE ANY DOUBTS

CONCERNING SAFETY.

• Always wear safety glasses.

• Disconnect the battery GROUND lead prior to work.

• Only use tools which are designed for the purpose intended.

• When using jack stands, initially position correctly and re-check

frequently.

• Do not start the tractor while on jack stands.

• Make sure you have workspace that is free from other objects that

might cause a problem.

• If some object is under tension, check your work before you proceed.

• Finally, if you are unsure of any step, recheck the instructions or

check with us before proceeding.

• Have a “Helper-Outer” with you at all times.

• Keep your work area neat and organized.

• If using any heat source, be cautious of the fuel contained in the

tractor. Have a suitable fire extinguisher handy.

If Something Doesn’t Seem Right … It Probably Isn’t!

STOP and RECHECK what you are doing.

The instructions in this manual are believed to be clear and accurate, but

are not guaranteed to be so. If in doubt or confused: STOP and contact us.

5

PROJECT OVERVIEW

Installing the K66 Upgrade Kit is composed of several general

operations.

• Review entire Installation Manual for a general idea of the

procedures and work flow. Please read the FAQ’s (“Frequently Asked

Questions”) at the end of the manual.

• Remove the mower

• Drain and remove the fuel tank

• Raise and install Jack Stands

• Disconnect the controls and remove the old transaxle.

• Install new frame reinforcing brackets

• Prepare the new K66 for installation

• Install the new K66 in the tractor frame

• Reconnect the controls to the K66

• Remove and replace the engine-to-transaxle drive belt

• Install new rims (Tires previously transferred to new rims)

• Test Drive: Learn how the tractor handles with the new transaxle

installed. The performance will be substantially greater.

• Correct any indicated problems (Phone or consult with RJR Tractor

LLC)

SUGGESTION

To avoid missing a step or an important point, several customers have

suggested having another person read the steps as another person does the

task. It also helps to cross off each step after completing it

Recommend this be done outside

6

TOOLS YOU WILL NEED

REQUIRED

• “Auto-type” jack stands, (two required. Fig. 2)

• 3/8” US socket or wrench

• 11/16” wrench or socket

• 10 mm socket

• 12 mm wrench (one required)

• 13 mm socket or wrench (two required)



• Large flat blade screwdriver OPTIONAL (Helpful, but not required)

• Light duty floor jack

• Additional lighting, such as flashlight or floor light.

RECOMMENDED

• Gloves

• Safety glasses

Note: I have found the ratcheting box end wrenches are superior

and much nicer to work with. It’s worth investing in a good

metric sized set.

There may be some variance between the description of a particular part or fastener or part you find in a parts bag. For example, the manual may state “Flange Head Screw,” however you may find a regular machine screw and a flat washer. Either will be completely acceptable. In every case, what you find in a bag will be appropriate. Don’t hesitate to ask us, if you have any concerns. (We make mistakes, too.)

About the 8mm screws: We use 8mm x 25mm (1”) Flange Head screws. They are called “self-tapping.” Because they are slightly oversized, the will cut their own threads in an untapped hole. When used with a nut, they may seem “sticky.” This is normal.

(I always said: “The nice

thing about DIY projects

is all the cool tools you

can buy!”)

7

STEP 1 REMOVING THE MOWER AND DRAINING THE FUEL TANK

Remove the mower deck, following the mower removal instructions that came with your mower.

It is easier to install the Upgrade Kit and later service the transaxle with the fuel tank removed.

Do the next step outside or have a drain pan immediately available to catch the fuel that will be draining from the live and tank. Be prepared to catch the gasoline that will drain out. Disconnect the fuel line on the right side of the tractor, near the engine. Using a pair of pliers, disconnect the fuel line at the RED ARROW. Take note how the fuel line was routed, so you can reinstall the new line the same

way.

Note: You can discard the old fuel line, as a new one is provided in the kit. Save the clip. (red arrow)

This would be a good time to sharpen or replace the cutting blades and inspect the mower belt(s) for wear or cracking.

CAUTION It is recommended that all work on the fuel tank and/or fuel line be done outside and away from all buildings and structures because of the possibility of an accidental fire. Have a fire extinguisher available and check for any possible source of ignition.

At this time, use a pair of vice grip pliers, or other means, to hold the pedals in the “neutral” position. As an alternative, mark each pedal where it passes through the floor so that this position can be reestablished when attaching the Motion Control rod to the new K66. (See STEP 11, Page 21)

8

STEP 2 FUEL TANK REMOVAL

To remove the fuel tank:

• Remove the tank Lower Support Bracket on the left side, below the gas filler cap.

• Remove the two Rear Attachment Screws.

• Remove the fuel filler cap and carefully remove the tank. (The tank should have already been drained.) Replace the cap after the tank is removed

You can cut the line and completely remove it because there is a new, longer fuel line provided in the kit. The longer fuel line will allow you to later remove the fuel tank to service the K66, without disconnecting the fuel line.

Lower Support Bracket Rear Attachment Screws

9

STEP 3 JACKING THE TRACTOR UP

There are basically TWO methods to do this:

1. Using two jack stands, one can be placed on either side of the tractor frame, just forward of the tire location. (Figure A)

2. One or two jack stands can be positioned on the rear hitch plate, as

shown in the photos, below. (Figure B) Without a floor jack, one person can rock the tractor up on one side while your “Helper-Outer” places the jack stand. Repeat for the other side.

Figure A Figure B

• Two jack stands.

Putting the tractor on jack stand can be hazardous.

USE CAUTION AND COMMON SENSE Always check the security of the jack stands EACH TIME before

working under the tractor.

10

STEP 4 REMOVING THE WHEELS

1) Remove plastic axle caps 2) Using a screwdriver, remove the large snap ring. (Figure A) 3) Slide the wheels off. They should slide off easily. (When installing

your new rims, put a little WD40 or light oil on the axle shaft to make future removal easier.)

CHECK SECURITY OF JACK STANDS. When you remove the first

wheel it will unbalance the tractor.

4) Slide off all remaining washers and hardware and discard. (Figure B) Because of the larger axle size on the K66, nothing removed will be reused.

Figure A Figure B

Tools Needed:

• Medium or large screwdriver.

11

STEP 5 REMOVE THE OLD K46 TRANSAXLE

PART 1

The following steps will remove the old transaxle:

1. Disconnect the brake control rod. PART 1 2. Disconnect the transaxle control arm shock absorber. PART 2 3. Disconnect the transaxle FORWARD/REVERSE control rod. PART 3 4. Disconnect the Freewheeling rod. PART 4 5. Unbolt and lower the old transaxle. PART 5

CAUTION: You will be working under the tractor. Be certain to use eye protection and re-check the jacks holding the tractor. It is

strongly suggested a helper is available in case of trouble.

PART 1: Disconnect the Brake Control rod. (Refer to Figure A & B, below.)

Working from the LEFT side, disconnect the spring clip A (Fig A & B) that secures the brake control rod to the transaxle brake lever. Using two15 mm. wrenches, remove both nuts (“B” & “C”) and the trunnion. Discard removed parts. Figure A

Figure B

12

STEP 5 (Cont.) REMOVE THE OLD K46 TRANSAXLE: PART 2 & 3

PART 2: Disconnect the transaxle control arm shock absorber. (Refer to photo at the left) Working from the right side: Using a flat blade screwdriver, pry off the retaining clip “A”, then using a suitable wrench, remove the stud the shock absorber end was attached to. None of these parts will be re-used.

NOTE: Later, the hole used by the stud will be used to secure the new front transaxle strap. PART 3: Disconnect the transaxle FORWARD/REVERSE control rod. (Refer to picture, above.) Working from the right side: Remove the clip “B” and remove control rod from the transaxle control lever. NOTE: There may not be enough clearance to pull the rod away from the control lever. If this is the case, wait until after dropping the K46, then remove it. Using a suitable wrench, remove both nuts and the trunnion on the control rod. Discard everything. (The trunnion is the piece the rod passes through and connects the rod to the lever.)

PART 4: Remove the “RIO” (Reverse Implement Override) bracket and switch. (Figure D) This switch causes the engine to stop when you push the REVERSE pedal and the mower is operating - unless you push the yellow button on the dashboard. With this switch removed. That “feature” is disabled. Save the switch for possible reuse. For now, let the loose wire

hang free. Do not cut off. By removing the RIO Switch, a “SAFETY FEATURE” is disabled.

Be sure to use caution when backing up with the mower operating. Inform other users of this change.

13

STEP 5 (Cont.) REMOVE THE OLD K46 TRANSAXLE

PART 4, 5, 6 &7

PART 4: Disconnect the Freewheeling rod. Discard. The freewheeling rod (sometimes referred to as the “Tow Valve” rod.) is the small rod that you pull out when you want to move the tractor without starting the engine. It is connected to a small lever on the front of the transaxle. It is secured with a small spring clip. Using a flat blade screwdriver, pry off the clip. Discard the rod and clip. (You might find it easier to remove this clip and rod after dropping the transaxle. It will NOT be reused.) PART 5: There are two metal straps, that support the front of the K46. These straps are fastened to the frame rail. Remove both the left and right straps. Discard. PART 6: Remove the Rear Belt guide. See Figure E, Appendix 4, Page 36. PART 7: Unbolt and lower the old transaxle. Removing the old transaxle will be easier, if a suitable auto-type floor jack is available, however it is not required. An alternative would be to use two of the supplied 24” zip-ties to secure the transaxle to the frame until all the screws are removed. After all the screws are removed, the zip-ties can be cut. (See Figure A, Appendix 4, Page 36) There are four screws securing the axle to the frame (two on each side) and two screws securing the transaxle side braces. Discard all screws and nuts. Put the old transaxle in the TRASH … Just kidding!

Save it to use as a Boat Anchor or chrome it and use as a Coffee Table Conversation Piece.

Anchors Away!

Drain the oil from the transaxle before disposing of it.

14

STEP 6 (Part 1) PREPARE THE NEW K66

• Remove the installed fan and pulley. (They will NOT be reused.)

Remove the 15mm nut from the Input drive shaft. You will likely find

that the factory has excessively tightened this nut and it will be

difficult to loosen. You can grip the fan or pulley with just about

anything you want, while you try to loosen the nut. Since neither will

be reused, damaging the fan or pulley is no problem. I have a small

electric impact wrench, which worked well. If you are unable to

loosen the nut, I suggest you take the transaxle to

any mechanic or tire shop. They can loosen the nut

with one of their impact wrenches.

• Remove the RIO Switch and bracket by removing

the 13mm screw. (Yellow arrow) It will not be

reused.

• Reconfigure the Oil Reservoir tank

Tools you will need:

• 13mm & 15mm socket or wrench

• Regular pliers or Vice-Grip pliers.

We have discovered that some transaxles have two holes in the control arm, as shown, and some have one. This is not a problem, as only the forward hole is used.

Remove the two screws (Red arrows) and remove the oil tank and mounting bracket. Discard the old bracket. The screws will be reused.

Using a pair of pliers unscrew the oil pipe that is screwed into the K66. Discard the pipe and the pipe covering.

15

STEP 6 (Part 2) PREPARE THE NEW K66

Installing the K66 oil reservoir

Install the new oil reservoir mounting bracket, in the same manner as the old one. Use the previously removed screws.

Tools you will need

• 12 or 13 mm socket or wrench

• Pliers

Parts you will need (Bag #2)

• Reservoir mounting bracket

• Oil tube

• ¼” Rubber gasket (Pre-installed on tube)

• Gasket sealer

Use a small dab of Gasket Sealer on the new pipe found in Bag 2. (Use your finger to smear it around the pipe.) Screw the new pipe back into the transaxle fitting, Point the pipe down.

Before you re-attach the oil reservoir on the transaxle: Smear a small amount of gasket sealer on the rubber seal and spread around.

• Next slide the pipe into the oil reservoir tank.

• Secure the tank into the mounting bracket.

NOTE: The tank is held in position by the “spring action” of the bracket.

16

STEP 7 PREPARE THE NEW K66

Check the location of the two drain plugs on the bottom of the K66. (See photo, below) Apply a little paint to the plugs so you can easily locate them later, when you drain and refill the transaxle. You can use any handy spray paint or even fingernail polish. (NOTE: These plugs are the only screw heads that have fiber washers under the screw heads.) As shipped, the reservoir may have a small amount of oil in the reservoir. Retain this oil: It is the same as you will be adding.

Note: In total, you will only be adding a few ounces of oil.

Fill the gearbox (left side) with oil, to cover the gears. (About 1 in. below the bottom of the filler.) Replace cap. Fill the plastic reservoir (right side) no higher than indicated by the RED arrow. (Only about an inch is required.)

IMPORTANT: Check oil after two hours of use.

(See Appendix 1 & 2, Pages 33 - 34)

Oil Level Drain Plug Locations

STEP 8:

Parts you will need:

• 5W-50 Synthetic Oil (Packed separately)

If a small oil leak develops where the oil reservoir connects to the transaxle body, check the FAQ’s on page 49

Slightly rotating the rubber filler cap when installing or removing will make it easier … like removing the “twist-cap” on a beverage bottle.)

NOTE: The plastic oil reservoir is simply an oil expansion tank, much like the radiator tank on a car. When the transaxle gets warm, the oil level will rise. If you overfill the tank, it will not cause any problem, other than overflowing and creating a mess on the floor.

17

STEP 8 PREPARE THE NEW K66

Positioning the Belt Guide

Adjusting the Belt Guide

Parts you will need: Bag #1

• Pulley

• Splined spacer


• None

Temporarily place the pulley on the K66 input shaft, with the belt also temporally held in place. Bend the Belt Guide toward the pulley so that it just clears the belt. After adjusting the belt guide, remove the pulley and set aside for later. (Keep the splined spacer on the shaft)

Slide one of the splined spacers on the K66 Input Shaft. (Either side may be UP.) Leave on.

Note: Your pulley will look different than the pulley in the photo.

18

STEP 9: PREPARE THE NEW K66

Preparing the Motion Control (Forward/Reverse) Rod ADJUSTING THE BEND IN THE FORWARD/REVERSE ROD

To prevent the Motion Control (Forward/Reverse) rod from rubbing on the frame rail, where it comes through the frame, the rod must be slightly bend down, before the new K66 is bolted into the frame.

Working from the right side, use your hands to bend the FORWARD/REVERSE rod down to the approximate position shown. (This will likely take a couple of tries.)

Parts you will need

• None


• None

NOTE: The purpose of bending the rod is so the rod will match up with the hole in the K66 control arm.

19

STEP 10 Part One: INSTALLING THE K66

Using your “Helper-Outer,” floor jack or ZIP ties, carefully raise the K66 into position.

• Insert and loosely fasten the transaxle 8 mm x 80 mm screws.

• Insert and loosely fasten the upper frame reinforcing 8 mm screws.

• Insert and loosely fasten the “red dot” marked screw in the rear hole, with the red dot nearest the bracket.

• Repeat for the other side. Do not tighten screws until the front strap is in place. (Next Step)

NOTE: 20 ft/lbs is about equal to a firm tightening with an 8” end wrench.


• Two 13 mm wrenches or sockets:

Parts you will need: Bag 4

• 2 ea, Reinforcing brackets. (Left & Right)

• 4 ea, 8mm x 80mm machine screws.

• 4 ea, 8mm x 1.25” flange head screws.

• 2 ea, 8mm x 1.25” SPECIAL MARKED flange head screws. (red dot)

• 10 ea, 8mm Locking flange head nuts.

20

STEP 10 Part Two: INSTALLING THE K66

Using the 8 mm x 55 mm screw and nut, install the right transaxle front

support strap to the transaxle. Leave loose. Fasten the top of the strap to the frame, using the 8mm x 25mm (1”) flange head screw and nut. Note: The top screw fastens to the frame through the existing hole where the old K46 shock absorber cylinder post was attached.

Now, go back and tighten all transaxle fastening screws.


• Two, 13 mm wrenches or sockets


• RIGHT transaxle strap

• 1 ea, 8mm x 1.25" flange head screw.

• 1 ea, 8mm x 55mm flange head screw.

• 2 ea, 8mm Locking flange head nuts.

The front support bracket fits between the frame rail and the motion control rod.

21

STEP 11 INSTALLING THE K66

THE FORWARD/REVERSE CONTROL ROD

Tools you will need: None


• Spring Clip

• Washer

• Modified trunnion

• Lock nut

Screw the trunnion on the end of the Motion Control rod, as shown. Adjust the position of the trunnion so that the pin fits into the hole in the arm, without moving the arm. Screw the lock nut on the rod and secure the trunnion in place.

IMPORTANT: Check that the pedals are in the “neutral” position BEFORE you adjust the trunnion. (See page 7) If you missed this requirement, you can do it now, by positioning the pedals in the approximate “neutral” position. The pedals will be approximately the same distance from the floor.

(Engine not running) After securing the trunnion pin in the control lever, use the foot pedals to check the full forward and full reverse position of the transaxle control lever.

22

STEP 12 RECONNECT BRAKE ROD

Figure A Figure B

Unlock the brake pedal.

Thread the welded trunnion assembly on the brake rod, as shown in Figure A. (Your unit will be painted black) As a preliminary adjustment, the center of the trunnion pin should be about 4” from the end of the brake rod. Move the brake rod to transaxle brake lever. With Brake Pedal OFF, adjust the trunnion so the pin fits easily into the brake lever. (Pin UP, see Fig. C)

Temporarily install the trunnion in the brake lever, with the pin UP. Attach the spring clip.

Lock the brake pedal ON and check the spring clearance, as shown in Figure B. The correct space is ¼” – ½”) If more clearance is needed, unlock the brake pedal and unfasten the brake trunnion. Screwing the trunnion UP the rod will provide MORE clearance. If less clearance is needed, unscrew the trunnion assembly. This adjustment is important for brake operation.

When the clearance adjustment is complete, permanently secure the brake trunnion with the spring clip. (Clip goes on top, as shown) Figure C

Tools you will need: 13 mm or 15 mm wrenches (one box end one open end)


• Welded Nut/Trunnion assembly, K66 Brake.

• Spring clip

The actual spacing is not critical. What IS important is that there is at least some clearance, with the brake pedal locked ON.

23

STEP 13 INSTALL THE FREEWHEELING ROD

Thread the small bent threaded end of freewheeling rod through the opening in the rear of the tractor hitch plate, as shown.

Insert the rod end into the transaxle freewheeling lever. Install rod in the hole farthest away from the pivot point in order to gain the largest travel and leverage.

Screw the 10-24 Locking nut on the end of the freewheeling rod, using a 3/8” wrench. Screw the nut on the rod until the rod end is flush with the nut.


• 3/8” wrench or socket


• Freewheeling rod (Packed separately)

• 10-24 Nylock locking nut (Located in the “Miscellaneous” bag.)

Bend the freewheeling rod, as needed, to insure smooth operation.

24

12” Rims Parts you will need: Bag 7

• Two THICK wheel washers

• Two MEDIUM wheel washers

• Two Machine bushings

• Two ¼” axle keys, one per axle

• Two spring retainer clips, one per axle

• Two axle caps and valve stems, one per axle

STEP 14 INSTALL REAR WHEELS

For 8” or 12” keyed rims

8” Rims Parts you will need: Bag 7

• One THICK wheel washers

• One MEDIUM wheel washers

• Two ¼” axle keys, one per axle

• Two spring retainer clips, one per axle

• Two axle caps and valve stems, one per axle


• Screwdriver or large pliers (To install retainer clip)

8” Rim Installation

• Slide the THICK WASHER on axle.

• Slide the RIM on. (Check the valve stem is outside.)

• Install the AXLE KEY.

• Slide the MEDIUM WASHER on.

• Install the AXLE CAP

12” Rim Installation

• Slide TWO THICK WASHERS on the axle.

• Slide the RIM on.

• Install the AXLE KEY.

• Install the MEDIUM WASHER.

• Install the MACHINE BUSHING

• Install the AXLE CAP.

25

STEP 15 REPLACING THE DRIVE BELT

Needless to say, be sure the rear wheels are installed.

This step will remove the old drive belt and replace it with the new one. For the belt operation, you may want to tip the tractor on its side. To do this: Have someone help you lift one side of the tractor. When the tractor is beyond the “tipping point” (over center) it can be held up with a chair or other heavy object. Bracing against the steering wheel shaft is a good point.

(L130 pictured)

After the belt operation is completed, lower the tractor back to level.

CAUTION DO NOT USE ANYTHING THAT MIGHT MOVE OR

NOT HOLD UP.

Always test the setup to make sure it is well braced and solid.

Be sure no gasoline or oil will leak out.

NOTE: Before tipping the tractor, use the Spring Hook to unhook the Belt Tensioning Spring. (See next step.)

NOTE: The new belt must be installed. It is a different size than the original JD belt.

If the “Tipping” procedure does not seem safe to you, DO NOT use it.

26

STEP 16

REPLACING THE DRIVE BELT

Figure A Figure B Lock the Brake ON Using the supplied Spring Hook, insert the hook from the rear of the tractor (where the fuel tank was removed) and hook the end over the belt tensioning spring. (Figure B) Pull the hook back and then push down, to unhook the tensioning spring. NOTE: To be able to reinstall the spring properly, note where the other end is hooked to the tensioning assembly. (see Figure B & C, Appendix 4, Page 36


• Spring hook (Supplied in kit)

• Pliers

• 12 mm or 13 mm wrench or socket


• Drive belt, 88” (A86K)

To replace the belt:

• Unhook the belt tensioning spring (Fig B)

• Remove the steering drag links (Fig A)

• Loosen the two belt tensioning pulleys. (Figure C)

• Remove the old belt. (Note how the belt went thru the pulleys)

• Install the new belt.

• Re-attach the tensioning spring. (Using your “helper-outer” will be very helpful.)

Figure C

Use gloves and safety glasses for the spring detaching operation and later re-attaching.

27

STEP17 INSTALL PULLEY, FAN and BELT

Place the pulley on the K66 input shaft. At the same time holding the belt around the pulley. (Note the larger side of the pulley is down.) NOTE: The previously placed splined washer should still be in place. (It is only used as a spacer.)

Next, place the second splined spacer on the shaft, with the hex side up. (Belt is not shown in this photo)

Next, place the fan on, followed by large washer and the smaller washer and the 10mm nut..

Using a 15 mm box end wrench or socket, tighten the flange nut. Be careful if you hold the fan blades. The fan blades are tough, but if one is broken or damaged, the fan must be replaced! (I have found that you can hold the shaft by holding the drive belt tightly around the pulley.) The nut does NOT need to be “really tight!”


• 15mm wrench or socket

The belt must be around the pulley before the pulley is placed on the input shaft, because of the belt guide. NOTE: The BRAKE must be locked on, so the belt will be loose.


• Pulley, K66 Input

• Washer

• Nut, 10 mm Flange head Nylock

• Splined spacer

• Fan (Packed separately)

Before lowering the tractor back to level, go to the next step and adjust the belt tension.

28

STEP 18 ADJUSTING THE BELT TENSION

Getting this adjustment correct is very important.

(Yellow arrow) This nut holds the belt guide in place. When you remove the nut, there is another nut under the plate (on the same screw) that fastens the belt pulley. When the second nut is loosened, the belt pulley can slide back and forth to adjust the belt tension. BEFORE you loosen the second nut, release the brake and check the spacing on the tensioning spring. (white arrows) It should be about 1-1/2 to 1-3/4” If it looks OK, then skip the adjustment. If the spring is not opening or needs MORE opening, lock the brake pedal ON, loosen the nut and slide the pulley a little toward the front of the tractor. Re-tighten the nut, release the brake and check the spring again. Adjust again, as needed. The spring measurement can ONLY be made with the brake pedal released OFF, as releasing the brake pedal puts tension on the belt. Once you have the adjustment made, replace the belt guide (red arrows) and tighten the top nut. BE SURE the guide is positioned so it doesn’t rub on the belt. Premature belt failure will occur if the guide rubs the belt.


• 13 mm box wrench or socket

The important point is with the BRAKE OFF, the spring is slightly pulled open. If there is some opening, when the Brake is OFF, the adjustment is just fine.

29

STEP 19 REINSTALL THE FUEL TANK

To service and check the transaxle oil, it is MUCH easier to remove the fuel tank. To make this easier, without disconnecting the fuel line each time, a new longer fuel line is provided in the kit.

Reinstalling the Fuel Tank:

• If not already done. disconnect the fuel line at the front fuel filter. (Disconnect on the tank side.)

• Remove the old fuel line. (Note the fuel line routing)

• Connect the new fuel line to the fuel filter and route the hose back to the rear, along the same route as the old fuel line.

• Secure the fuel line to the frame in several places, using supplied zip ties.

• Connect the fuel line to the fuel tank.

• Reinstall the fuel tank. Coil the extra fuel line the top of the fuel tank. BE CERTAIN THE FUEL LINE IS SECURED AWAY FROM THE FAN

TIDYING UP Bundle together the loose RIO switch wires and the new fuel line. Secure out of the way of the fan, using one, or more, zip ties.

See Figure D, Appendix 4, Page 36


• Two: 13 mm wrenches or sockets.

• Pliers (To disconnect fuel line clamps)


• Fuel tank (Previously removed

• 5 1/2 ft. Fuel line (Separately packed)

• Six Zip ties (MISC. Bag)

It is likely the following procedure will result in gasoline spillage. DO NOT do this in an enclosed area.

BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL.

30

STEP 20 Adjustments and “Fine Tuning”

NEW BELT MAY CAUSE NOISE: Frequently, after installing a new belt, it will be “sticky” and jump around on the engine drive sheave when the brake is ON and the belt is loose. If this happens, it will sound like something is loose and rattling. This will gradually disappear after a little use. BRAKES: The brakes should operate as they did prior to the K66 Upgrade, if the position of the trunnion on the brake rod is properly adjusted. If the tractor seems to be “lugging,” or lacks power, a possible cause is the internal brake in the K66 transaxle is partially ON. This would be caused by the brake rod and trunnion pulling on the transaxle brake lever, even with the brake off. Recheck. An easy check: With the brake OFF, jiggle the brake rod. It should be free and loose in the transaxle lever hole. If not, readjust. The same situation can occur if the brake is too loose. In this case, the brake action would be weak. Do the same “jiggle check,” as above, and readjust, as needed. Brake test: The parking brake should hold the tractor on a 15 degree incline.

FORWARD/REVERSE:

The tractor speed should be very close to the original speed. The “after conversion” speed has been accurately measured with the engine speed (rpm) running at specification: 3350 rpm +/- 100 rpm. Forward: 4.4 mph Reverse: 2.2 mph If you think your tractor is running too fast or too slow, check the engine rpm. It should be about 3000 -3200 rpm.

A “noisy belt” can also be caused by a loose belt that is rubbing on the belt guide. Refer to Step 18 , Page 28

31

CAUTION

Your tractor will have different performance and handling characteristics after the K66 Upgrade.

Please take time to learn the differences before

operating on slopes or steep terrain.

32

You’re done!

Enjoy the Ride

Any suggestions and feedback would be greatly appreciated.

Roger Daisley

RJR Tractor LLC Pullman, WA

Email: [email protected]


33

APPENDIX 1

SERVICING THE OIL IN THE K66 Draining and Changing Oil

Check the oil level in the K66 gear box (Thumb screw lid) and in the plastic reservoir after about the first two hours. About every two seasons, or every season, if you use your tractor for winter operations, drain and refill the transaxle. Refill with 5W-50 Synthetic oil. (I suggest using the same Castrol Syntec oil as supplied in the kit) This will insure a good long life. (NOTE: If the oil level is normal and is clean and clear, with no “burned” smell, it is safe to skip a drain & fill.) To drain the transaxle, there are two drains on the bottom of the transaxle. (See Figure 35) They are the only bottom screws that have a fiber gaskets. Drain both chambers

Refill BOTH chambers with Castrol Syntec 5W-50 Synthetic oil, or equivalent. (Gear case and plastic reservoir.) The total capacity after a

complete drain is 2½ quarts. Don’t be surprised if it initially takes less than that amount. Check again after a few minutes of operation.

SUGGESTION: Before installing the

transaxle, mark the two drain plugs with paint. This will make it much easier to

identify the plugs later.

NOTE: If the tractor does not operate properly after a complete drain and refill, there is likely air in the system. Do an “Air Purge.” (Appendix 3, Page 35)

34

APPENDIX 2 SERVICING THE OIL IN THE K66

Checking and adding oil

CHECKING THE OIL LEVEL: HOW TO DO IT You will need a small “Dip Stick” made out of a metal rod, about 12" long. I use a straightened out metal coat hanger. On one end, bend down, about 90-degrees, 2" of the rod. On the other end, form a little handle to hold on to. (The handle end of the Spring Hook tool supplied with the kit is 2” long and can be used.) Acquire a small "pump-type" oil can with a flexible snout. Remove the fuel tank, OBSERVE CAUTION Reach in and using a cloth to clean the dirt and “crud” from around the two filler caps. Remove the two oil caps from the transaxle. (Slightly twisting the cap on the plastic reservoir, while removing it, will make it easier.) Using the "dip stick" check the levels of the reservoir tank and gear box. You may have to dip a couple of times, wiping it off after each dip, until you get a clear picture of the oil level. As long as the oil level in the plastic reservoir touches the bottom of the dip stick, the level is correct. The proper oil level for the gear box is approximately 1” below the top of the filler hole. Use Castrol Syntec 5W-50 oil, or equivalent. To add oil, you can use a pump-style oil can, or a “turkey baster.” (Please don’t use your spouse’s … BAD IDEA!) Replace oil filler caps.

NOTE: If the tractor does not operate properly after a complete drain and refill, there is likely air in the system. Do an “Air Purge.” (Appendix 3, Page 35)

35

APPENDIX 3 SERVICING THE OIL IN THE K66

Air Purging Procedure

(Information as provided by Tuff Torq Service bulletin)

• Check the Oil Level.

• Put the tractor on jack stands with the wheels off the ground.

• Start the engine and operate at low idle.

• Repeat opening and closing the Freewheeling Valve (Using freewheeling rod) while alternately depressing the FORWARD and REVERSE pedals.

• When the wheels start to move, increase engine speed.

• Repeat starts and stops until the transaxle give full response.

• Remove jack stands

• Recheck oil level and top-off, if needed.

36

APPENDIX 4

Figure A

Figure B Figure C

Figure D

Figure E

37

APPENDIX 5

ABOUT TIRES

Most LT models are originally equipped with 20 x 10.00 - 8” tires. These tires can be transferred to your new rims and will work just fine. (I suggest you take them to a tire shop.) Because of the added torque, traction will be your main concern, since traction is the main factor in pulling power. Traction is primarily influenced by the weight on the tires and tread design. Weight:

• Fill the tires with a non-freezing fluid. This will add about 35 lbs, per tire. This is a good method of weight increase because it doesn’t add to weight in the transaxle. (My local tire dealer filled my tires.)

• For added weight for heavy applications and winter use, you can add external rear weights. The 40 lb. John Deere “suitcase” weights are a good choice. “Tube Sand” can also be strapped on top of the weights for even more weight. (The K66 is rated for 1000 lbs. of axle weight.)

Tires:

• Some people prefer to go with the “lug type” tires. I use lug tires all year and find them completely acceptable

• I can also recommend the Carlisle Super Lug tires. I have found them at: www.tires-easy.com (Ask us if you need a recommendation)

http://www.tires-easy.com/

38

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS (FAQ’s) Q: How fast will the tractor go after conversation? A: The speed has been measured with a GPS and is 4.4 mph FORWARD and 2.2 mph REVERSE. This is approximately the same as original. (Engine RPM set to spec.) Q: The FORWARD and REVERSE pedals seem harder to push. Is this normal? A: Yes, the pedals will be stiffer, because of the “Shock Absorber cylinder” attached to the K66. This cylinder is there to slow down both the FORWARD and REVERSE action … to keep from throwing you off the tractor if you actuate it too quickly! It will loosen up a little after a few hours. Q: After use, the K66 seems quite hot. A: This is normal. Be sure you ALWAYS run the engine at FULL speed when using the tractor. Q: I am interested in larger and/or lug tires. Where do you buy yours? A: I use the Internet site: www.tires-easy.com Look for “Quad/ATV/Specialty Tires.” Feel free to call RJR Tractor LLC for suggestions. Q: How often should I change the transaxle oil? A: I change my oil once a year, just before the summer mowing starts. If your tractor won’t move after the oil change, you will likely need to “burp” your K66. See Appendix One. Q: The size of wrench you mention doesn’t seem to match up: A: The size of the wrench is not the same as the screw size. For example, an 8mm. screw usually uses a 13mm wrench. This can vary between screw manufacturers, so the wrench specified may sometimes be wrong. Q: Everything is done, but the tractor won’t move. A: This is usually caused by a missing axle key in one of the wheels (The axle will turn, but the wheel won’t.) or the Freewheeling Rod is not fully pushed in. (Two clicks.) If no problem is found here, do the “Air Purge” procedure, Appendix 3, Page 32 Q: I ran my tractor for the first time and when I parked it, it dripped oil on the floor. A: The usual reason for this is overfilling the oil reservoir. Other than a mess, no damage was done. Q: I just bought a new belt and installed it. Do I need to replace it? A: Yes, the belt supplied in the kit is a different length. If you later need a new belt, it is commonly available. (Size: A86K, 88” length) Q: Where can I get a replacement belt? A: You can order one on our webpage. It is a good idea to have a spare. Q: Is the K66 noisier than the K46? A: Yes, because of the larger hydraulic pump and motor. Q: “K62” is stamped on the transaxle housing. Did I get the wrong transaxle? A: No, Tuff Torq uses the same casting for both the K61 and K66.

http://www.tires-easy.com/

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