louis vuitton
DESCRIPTION
My presentation at London College of Fashion March 2009TRANSCRIPT
Claudio Diniz
History
Founded in 1854, by Louis Vuitton: Malletier a Paris
1858 - Grey trianon canvas
1888 - Damier Pattern
1896 Georges Vuitton designed the famous ‘Monogram Canvas’
Expansion to countries worldover
1930s onwards creation of signature bags – Keepall, Noe, Speedy, Papillon
1959 Monogram Canvas made suppler to be used for purses, bags, and wallets
1983 Louis Vuitton Cup
1987 Formation of LVMH
1990s onwards they launched many new lines and collections
By 1989 there were 130 stores worldwide
1998 Marc Jacobs appointed as Art Director, Pret-a-Porter
2000s Collaboration with Stephen Sprouse and Takashi Murakami
Revamped a few old lines
History
Portrait of Louis Vuitton (1821-1892) founder of the company
Four historical canvas - bottom/right: grey Trianon canvas, bottom/left: Striped canvas, top/right: Damier canvas, top/left: Monogram canvas
The Monogram canvas « Wardrobe » (1875)
The «Steamer bag »: ancestor of soft bags
The fabrication of Louis Vuitton
shoes, for which no less than 150
operations are necessary
Overview
« Vuitton Building » : the façade of the Louis Vuitton store, at 70, Av. des Champs-Elysées (1914)
Lock with multiple tumblers, launched in 1890
Launch of Louis Vuitton as a fashion label (1998)
The Milano toiletry case, presented by Louis Vuitton at the International Exposition in 1925
Portrait of Patrick-Louis Vuitton, 5th generation of the Vuitton family
Yves Carcelle, CEO Louis Vuitton
Louis Vuitton
workshop in Asnières,
France
Louis Vuitton’s 150th anniversary party (April 2004, Hongkong)
Overview
Monogram Vernis – Pegase 50
Damier Geant Aventurier
Stephen Sprouse – Keepall 50
Monogram Multicolore - Keepall
Epi Leather – Sirius 45
Luggage
Carried Monogram Canvas - Case
Monogram Mirior - Small Ring Agenda Cover
Monogram Canvas - Mini Agenda Zippy Cover
Epi Leather - Small Ring Agenda Cover
Monogram Vernis - Agenda Cover PM
Desk Agenda Cover – Nomade Leather
Agendas
Damier Azur Canvas - Pocket Agenda Cover
Watches
Montres Tambour 2002
Montre Tourbillon Tambour Monogram Montres Tambour Diving
Montres Speedy
Montres Tambour Quartz Small Lovely
Montres Tambour Fleurs Précieuses
Monogram Multicolore – Speedy 30 Monogram Mini Lin –
Diaper Bag
City Bags and Briefcases
Damier Graphite – President Briefcase
Mahina XLStephen Sprouse – Neverfull GM
Monogram Vernis – Roxbury Drive
Suhali Leather - Lockit Clutch
Clutches and Pouches
Monogram Damier Canvas – Pochette Compact
Monogram Limelight – Clutch PM
Stephen Sprouse – Pochette Accessories
Afterdark Monogram – Motard
Epi Leather – Sellier Dragonne Clutch
Wallets and Leather Goods
Mahina - Amelia Wallet
Monogram Canvis – Astrid Wallet
Suhali Leather – Serenata Case
Monogram Multicolore – Flat Coin Purse
Epi Leather - Key Holder
Monogram Denim – Zippy Wallet
Shoes
Harold Loafer in Calf Leather Sofia Sandal in Suede Goat Leather
Rose Pump in Glazed Calf Leather
Lagoon Thong in Canvas
Monogram Damier Canvas - Elan Sneaker
Coconut Mule in Monogram Canvas & Leather Patchwork
Fine Jewellery
Fleur Medalllian Necklace, Yellow Gold
Small Monogram Gallea Band Ring, White Gold
Clous Bracelet, Yellow Gold Large LV Pendant White Gold & Diamonds
Les Luxuriantes Earrings with Pink Sapphires
Les Craquantes
Small Pendant &
Chain
Sun Glasses
Metal - Attraction
Monogram Photocromique – Conspiration Pilote
Metal and Acetate – Alias Round
Desmayo Strass Cat Eye
Obsession Carre LV Landscape
Acetate - Mahina
Pens
Charm Pen
Agenda Ballpoint GM
Roller Pen LV cup
Leather-Covered Doc Ballpoint PenRhodium Finish
Books
Birth of Modern Luxury City Guide 2009, Mumbai
Travel Note Book London
History of the LV CupCity Guide 2009 – European Cities
Travel Note Book Mumbai
Ties and Scarves
Olivia Scarf Monogram Shawl
Mix Monogram Tie
New Denim Square Scarf
LV Tie Signature Silk Celestie Tie
Belts
Monogram Damier Canvas Belt
LV Initials Monogram Belt
LV Inventeur Reversible Damier Ebene Belt
Boitier Calf Leather Belt
LV Intitials Monogram Multicolore Belt
1904 Natural Calf Leather Belt
Accessories
Graffiti BroochSweet Monogram Headband
Candy Bag Charm
Monogram Canvas - Baxter Dog Collar GM
Cigar Humidor 75Mahogany and pear wood Monogram
1001 Nuits Hair Clip
Ready to Wear
Spring Summer 2009 Spring Summer 2009 Cruise Collection 2009
Ready to Wear
Spring Summer 2009 Pre Spring Summer 2009 Cruise Collection 2009
Brand Identity
Physical Personality
Self-projection
Reflection
CultureRelationship
Luxury leather goods Monogram DamierLocks, trunksQuality
TraditionHeritage
Success,Show off Effortless luxury
Art of travelCraftsmanshipSporting traditionWorking class originElite customers“La belle époque”FrenchJapanese
EleganceComfortUnderstated
StatusSocial belonging
Core Values
Traditional and Classic
Luxurious and Elegant
Iconic
Creates Desire
Evokes a sense of Style
Subtle Changes
Sophisticated and Elite
Brand extension- Why Perfume?
Available by all our competitors, missing from the LV catalogue
To cater to the already existing loyal LV customer
Fulfill desires of people of owning a LV product
Increase the Market Share
Increase Revenues
Competitors Analysis
Perfumes when sold through selective distribution channels are clearly luxury products, even if they correspond to low-priced items
Brands like Chanel, Lancôme, Estée Lauder, Dior and Lanvin launched perfumes as early as the 19th century
Other luxury brands like Chanel, Dior and Armani have an aided awareness of around 80% to 90% through their perfumes
Competitors Analysis
Gucci by Gucci, 50ml - £ 48.00
Elizabeth Arden, Badgley Mischka Couture, 100ml - £ 61.00
Marc Jacobs, Daisy, 50ml - £ 49.00
Dolce & Gabbana, Sicily, 50ml - £ 43.00
Emilio Pucci, Sabbia 167, 50ml - £ 39.00
Bond No 9, Nuits de Noho, 50ml - £ 90.00
Dior, Midnight Poison, 50ml - £ 54.00
Competitors Analysis
Cartier, Delicies de Cartier, 50ml - £ 48.00
Giorgio Armani, Armani Code, 50ml - £ 45.00
Valentino, Rock n Rose Couture, 50ml - £ 46.00
Bvlgari, Rose Essential, 50ml - £ 54.00
Hermes, Kelly Caleche, 50ml - £ 52.00
Givenchy, Ange ou Demon, 50ml - £ 50.00
Ralph Lauren, Notorious, 50ml - £ 48.00
Jean Paul Gaultier, Fragile, 50ml - £ 59.00
Trend Book and Colour Trend Book Creation
R - 111
G - 173
B - 222
R - 205
G - 55
B - 0
R - 239
G - 120
B - 171
R - 158
G - 0
B - 0
R - 0
G - 0
B - 0
R - 0
G - 138
B - 42
R - 134
G - 25
B - 124
R - 191
G - 173
B -191
Damier Azur
R - 255
G - 212
B - 0
R - 212
G - 19
B - 128
R - 232
G - 223
B - 205
R - 125
G - 116
B - 119
Monogram Multicolore
Trend Book and Colour Trend Book Creation
Creation and design of the new introduced product
Packaging Creation
Product Identity
Shape1: Very slim and long Elegance, sleek, modernity
Shape 2: Slightly curvy corners and edges
Feminine yet strong
Colour 1: Damier Azur Canvas in light blue and beige
Traditional, LV original signature print. Soft, feminine, dream
Colour 2: Monogram Multicolore. Bright colours and white.
Traditional yet feminine and young.
Material 1: Canvas Classical yet innovative (in a perfume bottle)
Material 2: Thick transparent glass
Luxury, elegance, quality, clean
Signs Meanings
Package Identity
Shape1: Long and slim tin with metal base
Practical, elegant, modern
Shape 2: Round corners and edges
Feminine and soft
Colour 1: Damier Azur Canvas. Light blue and beige
Eternal, LV original, symbolic, legendary print
Colour 2: Silver logo, product name and base
Sophisticated yet modern and innovative
Material 1: Metal Practical, modern
Material 2: Canvas Luxury, elegance, expertise, classical, LV heritage
Signs Meanings
Package Identity
An innovative product with classical features that reflect the brand heritage and expertise. It also brings a touch of modernity, fun and agility. It
caters to the sophisticated LV female customer and to the younger fans of the LV brand.
Modern Classic
Mass market
Luxury
Perfume Voyager
New Product Positioning
0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15
LOW INNOVATION
MEDIUM INNOVATION
HIGH INNOVATION
Voyager Parfum
Innovation Value Scale
Core business of the brand - Luggage maker
LV heritage and signature products
The LV customer: jet set. Likes to travel and visit new places but one thing is constant: the LV bags, luggage and accessories
Simple name and easy to remember
Good sonority
Invite the customer to travel and dream. Join the LV universe
Semantics – Why “Voyager”
Target Segmentation
Our targeted client are both sex, aged between 30-50 year’s old
Income between £ 35.000-150.000 +
They are graduate professionals with sense of self-worth and novelty seekers
Our product can be bought for personal use or as a gift
Achievers and innovators
PASTFrench,
Immaterial
Never vulgar
Plug in ephemeral
Trends & Events
Artistical statement
Cultural Mobility
Good life
“Planter ses racines tous les jours”
Contemporaneity & Universal
Myths
Desire
Stylish
Positiveatitude
Brand Loyalty
Self confidenceStatus
Traditional Facets of Luxury
BOTTLE BOTTLE PACKAGING PACKAGING
PRODUCTION TOOLS
Glass injection matrix
Cap injection matrix
Colors films
Metallic cutting frame
Metallic cutting frame
Metallic LV
Cutting frame Voyage
Colors films
PRICES 60.000 euros per piece (Glass)
30.000 euros per piece (Cap)
= 90.000 euros
3.000 euros per piece
13x3.000
= 39.000 euros(colors)
3.000 euros per piece (cutting)
39.000+3.000=42.000
3.000 euros per piece
5.000 euros
Per piece
3.000+5.000=
8.000 euros
2.500 euros per colors
X 2 = 5.000 euros
FIXED COST
Production Cost
VARIABLE COST
NUMBER OF MODELS
50.000 100.000 150.000
BOTTLE
Price per unit
6 euros 5 euros 4 euros
Packaging
Price per unit
5 euros 4 euros 3 euros
Production Cost
Number of models 50.000 100.000 150.000
BOTTLE
Fix cost per unit
132.000/50.000 = 2.64 euros
132.000/ 100.000
= 1.32 euros
132.000/150.000 = 0.88 euros
BOTTLE
Variable cost per unit
7 euros 6 euros 5 euros
BOTTLE
Production cost per unit
9.64 euros 7.32 euros 5.88 euros
PACKAGING
Fix cost per unit
13.000/50.000
= 0.26 euros
13.000/100.000
= 0.13 euros
13.000/150.000
= 0.08 euros
PACKAGING
Variable cost per unit
5 euros 4 euros 3 euros
PACKAGING
Production cost per unit
5.26 euros 4.13 euros 3.08 euros
TOTAL PRODUCTION COST
BOTTLE + PACKAGING
14.90 euros 11.45 euros 8.96 euros
MARGIN : 500 %
SELLING PRICES
74.50 euros
89.40 euros
57.25 euros
68.70 euros
44.80 euros
53.76 euros
Production Cost
Cost of 50ml perfume bottle is £ 55.00
Pricing
Exclusive only to LV boutiques and concessions in department stores worldwide
Also available at LV web site and Duty Free
Distribution Strategy
Exclusive/Selective Distribution when appropriate
110%
Polo RL
RichemontBurberry
Tod's GroupBulgari
LVMHEscada Group
Coach
Hermès
Gucci Division
Louis Vuitton
R2 = 0.8591
30%
40%
50%
60%
70%
80%
90%
100%
0% 5% 10% 15% 20% 25% 30% 35% 40% 45% 50%
% o
f R
etai
l Sal
es
EBIT Margin (%) Source : Merrill Lynch Luxury Goods Team estimates
Extrapolated Evolution
Source : Merrill Lynch Luxury Goods Team estimates (trend between in-house production and gross margin highlighted but names of companies are left blank intentionally)
58%60%
70%
62%
78%
65%
0%
10%
20%
30%
40%
50%
60%
70%
80%
90%
Louis Vuitton Hermès Richemont Gucci Division Tod's Group Burberry
0%
10%
20%
30%
40%
50%
60%
70%
80%
90%
Estimated In-House Production Gross Margin
Manufacturing Integrity: Product Quality
0% 5% 10% 15% 20% 25% 30% 35%
Hotels
Jewelry
Leather Goods
Wines & Spirits
Watches
Accessories
Skin Care
Eyewear
Make-up
Shoes
Fragrances
Beauty Products (all segments)
Ready to Wear
Crystal
Porcelaine
EBIT Margins by Industry
Source : Merrill Lynch Luxury Goods Team estimates
Profitability Across Key Luxury Product CategoriesGross Margins (% ) Operating Margins (% )
Leather Goods & Shoes (1) 35%-80% 20%-50%Ready-to-Wear (2) 50%-65% 5%-20%Cognac & Champagne (3) 30%-40% 25%-35%Jewelry & Watches (4) 55%-70% 15%-20%Perfumes & Cosmetics (5) 15%-35% 5%-12%Writing Instruments & Lighters (6) 10%-50% 0%-15%Tableware (7) 10%-50% 0%-10%
(1) Louis Vuitton shows an operating margin near 50%, Gucci the second most profitable brand is at 30%+...
(2) Huge discrepancy as well between the players, even on the listed front (Hugo Boss, Escada, IT Holding)
(3) For premium and super-premium bottles only - Moët Hennessy third largest player in value
(4) Profitability in the jewelry and watch categories very similar. Margins higher with lower price points
(5) Benchmarks in the sector are L'Oréal Prestige & Beauté, Clarins, Estée Lauder - Shiseido in the red,
including on prestige products
(6) Only ST Dupont & Montblanc in sample examined (rest less profitable)
(7) Huge discrepancy between the best performing companies (Waterford Wedgwood)
and various money losing brands
Source : Merrill Lynch Luxury Goods Team estimates
Presence in most Profitable Product Categories
Characteristics
Positioning
Global brands with extended product propositions Target the largest audience by creating desire with permission Accessibility A well established ‘historical brand’ opens its door to YOU for a
‘luxuryland’ experience In line with customers looking for personal fulfillment over material /
statutory distinction
Customers
Everyone’s welcome (but not said openly, everyone has to feel privileged))
Price is not a discriminator in absolute terms But remains a filter in relative terms
Hypermodern Luxury: To Have and To Be
Advertisement placement in fashion, lifestyle and travel magazines, newspapers, specialized websites (ex: Style.com), TV and cinema.
PR. Beauty session of speciliazied magazines.
Advertisement with celebrities. Endorsement.
Direct Marketing.
Windows’ display. Teasers.
Special visual merchandising (especially in department stores)
Communication Strategy