l'oreal - a case of global brand
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LOreal The Case of A Global Brand
Dr. Sue Bridgewater - International
Marketing
3/15/2012
Author: Thanh Vu
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LOreal
Why is LOreal a Global Brand?
In 1909, a French chemist established a small company that retailed one sole hair dye product but a
century later, LOreal has developed into one of the biggest players in the beauty and personal care
industry, operating in 130 countries and owning 32 brands. LOreal covers 3 business branches
including cosmetics, the Body Shop and dermatology brands (LOreal International Website, 2012).
The scope of this paper will focus on the core business of LOreal, the cosmetics branch. The
cosmetic s branch consists of consumer, professional, luxury products, and active cosmetics
(Appendix 0). This paper uses a number of frameworks to assess the extent of LOreals global brand
and later discusses its implications on the degree of standardization and adaptation of its marketing
mix in India. Lastly, the paper will also assess how the current marketing strategy may need to
evolve due to the challenges that LOreal will face in the Indias market in the next 5 years.
A Global BrandDespite the liberal use of the term global brand, the lack of consensus in its definition leads to
difficulties in assessing how global LOreal is as a brand. Outside the world of academia,
BusinessWeek ranked LOreal at No. 44 in Top 100 Global Brand in 2009. To be qualified for such
ranking, a brand must derive at least a third of its earnings outside of its home country and the
brand must be recognisable outside of its customer base (BusinessWeek, 2009). This definition of a
global brand used by marketing practitioners is a loose derivation of Ohmaes broad triad markets of
NAFTA, the EU and Asia (Rugman, 2003). Under Ohmaes board triad markets, a brand must obtains
at least 20% of its sales in each part of the triad to be qualified as global. It must also have equal
sales representation in all three regions of the triad to be considered a triad power (Ohmae, 1985).
In this stricter sense, LOreal is a near miss, having only 17.6% of sales from Asia Pacific but almost40% of sales from Western Europe (Appendix A).
Furthermore, to truly be a global company or a triad power, a corporation must fulfil Ohmaes
(1985) two criteria: (1) equal penetration and exploitation capabilities, and (2) no blind spots, in
each of the triad regions. Although LOreal does not strictly meet the first criteria, it eliminates the
blind spots by establishing consortia, joint ventures and wholly-owned subsidiaries. Japan, China and
India were such examples (Appendix B). Over 100 years, LOreals strategic approaches to
internationalisation were diverse. In this case, the company generally followed the phases of the
internationalisation process described by the Uppsalas model (Banerjee, 2012). In Israel and Brazil,
it introduced the products via exporting, manufacturing and finally created wholly-owned subsidiary(Appendix B). Hence, it is appropriate to assess the extent of LOreals global brand by its
international marketing orientation and its exploitation of Levitts global convergence to benefit
from lower cost and more market knowledge (Cateora, 2000) in order to serve the increasingly
homogenised customers needs (Levitt, 1983). These bases for assessment are similar to the
regiocentric or geocentric philosophy (Douglas, 1973) where companies are global if they seek
standardization of certain elements and adaptation of others in the marketing mix (Perlmutter,
1969). A number of LOreals locally-acquired brands have been made global and standardized,
including Matrix (US), Maybelline (US), Shu Uemura (Japan) (Euromonitor International, 2011). The
US was accounted for 90% of Matrix s sales at the time of acquisition. Now it is established as a
high-end product sold all over in Brazil, Russia, India, Mexico and China (EI, 2011).
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Determinants of LOreals degree of standardization and adaptation in the
India market
Why India is an important market?
India has risen to become one of the top strategic markets for LOreal along with China and the US
(Neff, 2011). LOreal placed its sixth global R&D centre in Mumbai in 2011 in addition to the existing
manufacturing plant in Pune (Kasabe, 2011). Although sales from India only accounted for 1% of
LOreals cosmetic sales in 2011, India had the highest like-for-like growth among other emerging
markets at 24.5% (LOreal Finance, 2012). Furthermore, Indias large and young population, GDP
growth averaging at 8% (EI, 2011) and low-risk profile (Coface, 2012) (Appendix C) are favourable
factors that promise a key strategic market in the near future for beauty and personal care products.
Currently, all four product groups of LOreal (consumer/mass-market/colour cosmetics, professional,
luxury and active cosmetics) are present in the Indian beauty and personal care industry. However,
since the consumer product group yield the main revenue stream for LOreal and the presence of
the higher-end products are still limited (EI, 2011), this paper will limit the scope of LOreals
marketing mix in India to the former group. The next section will examine the level of adaptation
and standardisation of elements in the marketing mix, relative to other competitors in the market
(EI, 2011) (Appendix D). As cultural dimensions are important determinants of the consumers wants
and behaviours (Kotler, 1999), LOreals practice will be looked at under Hofstedes cultural
framework (Appendix E).
LOreal Marketing Mix in India:
Like many other global brand, LOreal faces the issue ofadaptation or standardization in its
marketing mix to achieve cost efficiency and recapture innovation cost (Ohmae, 1983), especially in
a price-conscious market like India (Bhattacharya, 2007). Both Perlmutters EPRG scheme (1969) and
Riesenbecks (1991) survey (Appendix J) of successful global brands suggest that firms can benefit
from a standardized, geocentric brand name. In the case of LOreal Paris, the companys flagship
brand, this can be true due to a positive country-of-origin effect that a French name can give to
beauty products (Cateora, 2000). However, the two frameworks differ in other elements of the mix.
Products:
In terms of products, most of LOreal products in India are standardized as they are also available in
other markets with the same name, quality, packing and design (LOreal 2012). However, the
preference for fair looks and darker skin tones in India requires LOreal to offer a different product
mix including whitening products (Appendix F) which means the company must adopt a regiocentric
orientation for this particular element, as suggested by the EPRG framework (Appendix G). In
contrast, its biggest competitor, Hindustand Uniliver has taken a polycentric philosophy in the Indian
beauty and personal care market. It is a public company and a subsidiary of Uniliver in India. It caters
to the market with Fair & Lovely, Lakme and other brands that it has developed specifically for the
Indian market. Fair & Lovely is also the countrys number one skin-lightening cream for women.
Hindustand Unilivers colour cosmetics has a value share of 28.6%, far exceeding LOreals 13.9%
(LOreal, 2012).
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Price:
The pricing scheme for LOreal products are more or less standardized across markets as suggested
by Riesenbeck (1983). Although LOreal consumer products are at the lowest spectrum of its product
lines, the lower average disposable income in India means that LOreal products are still considered
expensive. Its rival, Hindustan Uniliver, has adopted a polycentric approach in pricing and Unilivers
products are priced lower. It was able to do so because it possesses a much more extensive
manufacturing network. It has over 40 manufacturing units and ties to a network of 150 third party
manufacturers. Hindustand Uniliver is also able to export products in home care to other Uniliver
companies all over the world (EI, 2011).
Place:
While LOreal sticks to its standardised distribution channels and utilised mostly Westernised stores
and retailers, Hindustand Uniliver has a much more extensive distribution network including a direct
selling marketing initiative to reach the rural areas (Rao, 2010). Taking into the consideration of
Indias collectivistic culture and long-term orientation (Appendix E), a higher level of adaptation in
LOreals distribution channel may increase the companys success. A direct selling marketing
initiative can create benefits because the Indian collectivistic culture means that consumers may
enjoy establishing relationships with the marketers. Members of a collectivistic culture expect to be
well-taken care of by their in-group members (Hofstede, 2012). Furthermore, the long-term
orientation tends to create high propensity to save and preference for thriftiness (Hofstede, 2012).
This means that direct selling in rural areas may be appeal to the average citizens than selling
through distributors or retailers in modern shopping malls. Although LOreal may not fulfil the high
level of adaptation as Riesenbeck (1973) suggested for this particular element of the marketing mix,
it is congruent with the EPRG framework. By selling in modern stores and through reputable
retailers, its ethnocentric approach conveys prestige and higher quality.
Promotion:
LOreal takes a geocentric approach to sales and promotion consistent with Perlmutters framework,
which contradicts Riesenbecks suggested practice of high level of adaptation in regards to this
marketing element (Appendix J). LOreal Because Were Worth It is a standardized advertising
campaign that uses the celebrities such as Eva Longoria, Jennifer Lopez and Beyonce Knowles and a
few local ambassadors to promote LOreal products. The same practice is also used in Brazil, China
and other markets. LOreals ambassador also includes Aishawa Rai, the famous former Miss
Universe and Bollywood actress (LOreal, 2012). Hindustand Uniliver also uses the same approach
and hires a number of ambassadors to promote its brand (EI, 2011). In addition, LOreal has alsostandardized most of its websites for different markets with identical elements such as forums for
LOreal consumers to connect and create feedback about the products.
Challenges in the next 5 years in the Indian Beauty and Personal Care Market
Although Levitts suggestion (1983) of exploiting homogenised consumer needs with more product
standardisation to achieve efficiency from economies of scale, the idea is hardly viable in practice.
Moojis study concludes that divergence in consumption at country-level behaviour exist due to
cultural variables, which can be explained by Hofstedes model (Appendix E). In another word,
LOreal needs to enhance its level of adaptation in relevant elements of the marketing mix, taking
cultural factors into consideration.
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Colour cosmetics have been growing at a steady rate of more than 30% annually between the period
of 2002 and 2007 (Bhattacharya, 2007) and it is expected to experience total growth of 114.8% and
46.6% in premium cosmetics and mass cosmetics respectively during 2010 and 2015 (Appendix H).
The collectivism in the Indian culture translates into group conformity which means once
innovators in the society start using a new product, other groups of consumers quickly follow suit to
avoid the discomfort of being left out (Bhattacharya, 2003). The result of such behaviour is higher
product diffusion rate. In addition, there is an increasing number of women in the age group of 22 to
45 who are becoming more independent with more disposable income and decision-making power.
The implication for LOreal, therefore, is a need to invest heavily on promotion and advertising to
capture the anticipated demand growth and to combat increase in illegal distribution channel
encouraged by high import tariffs (Appendix I). It must enhance its distribution channel, produce
focused promotion and events catering specifically toward this group of customers.
Practically, LOreal needs to take advantage of more malls opening in big cities such as Delhi,
Mumbai, Hyderabad, Chennai and Kolkata. This can also mean increasing floor area in shop-in-shop
concept and establishing more stand-alone branded beauty stores to accommodate the growing
appetite for leading global brands. LOreal may also want to diversify its channel to maximise
product accessibility and increase its consumer base at all income levels (Bhattacharya, 2007).
LOreals promotional strategy in India can benefit from higher level of adaptation as the majority of
the Indian population can identify with Indian singers and film actors than American celebrities
(Bhattacharya, 2003).
To learn from its biggest rival in the Indian market, LOreal will also need to focus on adapting
product innovation to cultural differences in order to capture more shares in the market.
Competition in the skin whitening products will continue to remain fierce since it will remain a
reliable source of revenue due to cultural factors. The high power distance in the culture means
status plays a very important role in India and people often associate fair complexion not only with
beauty, but also a symbol of higher social class. Demand for skin whitening products is high among
men and women of all ages. Indian men believe lighter complexion make them look smarter and can
increase their chances in succeeding in a job interview. Product innovation in skin whitening
products is necessary to succeed in this market. The increasing trend toward natural beauty and
personal care in the emerging markets poses a valuable opportunity here (EI, 2011). Hence,
establishing an R&D centre in India is a prudent decision for LOreal to stay ahead of the competition
with product innovation in the foreseeable future.
Conclusion
While the validity of Levitts global convergence of consumer needs and wants may not apply in the
cosmetics world in India, LOreal still benefits from adaptation and standardization in certain
elements of the marketing mix. The optimal strategy must take into consideration the uniqueness of
the Indian culture and its cultural dimensions to achieve an optimal market mix. India has various
qualities which indicate a significant strategic market so it is part of LOreals priority to establish a
strong market presence in the country. It will face many challenges in the foreseeable future with
the considerable presence of Hindustand Uniliver in the market. However, by adjusting its level of
adaptation in certain marketing mix elements to align with the cultural needs of the Indian
consumers, LOreal will succeed in this strategic market.
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APPENDIX
Appendix 0LOreal Product Groups
Consumer Products
(Mass-market)
LOreal Paris
GarnierMaybelline New York
Professional Products LOreal Professionnel
Kratase
Matrix
Kraskin Esthetics
Luxury Products Lancome
Giorgio Armani
Ralph Lauren
Diesel
Kiehls
Active Cosmetics VichyLa Roche Posay
Source: LOreal India Website
Appendix ALOreal Sales by Region
Appendix BLOreal Global Emergence
France Founded in
1909
US 1956 Moved into the North America after 3 years of market research
Brazil 1959 Had present in Brazil since the 1930s but built 2 plants in Rio and Sao Paulo
to establish direct present
Japan - 1963 Created a partnership with Kose Corp in 1963 and in 1996, formed a wholly-owned subsidiary under the name of Nihon LOreal (Hamada, 2011). In
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1983, it established Japanese Research Centre to customise products to this
Asian market
Israel 1994 Had a presence in the market since 1983 with a plant and in 1994, created a
subsidiary
India 1994 Was the first international cosmetic group that received permission to
establish wholly-owned subsidiaryChina 1996 Strengthened its presence in Chinas market by partnering with Sozhou
University to create a joint venture named Sozhou LOreal Products and
constructed a plant in the same province
Africa 2000 With the acquisition of Carson, a hair product customised for African
ethnics, LOreal hoped to strengthen its position in Africa
Source: LOreal Website
Appendix C: Coface India Risk Assessment A3
Appendix D: Largest competitors in the Beauty and Personal Care Company shares by NBO 2006-
2010 (% of retail value rsp)
Competitors 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010
Hindustan Unilever Ltd - 34.6 34.7 33.5 32.9
Colgate-Palmolive India Ltd 6.6 6.8 6.8 6.9 6.8
Dabur India Ltd 4.8 4.9 5.0 5.0 4.9
Godrei Consumer Products Ltd 4.0 4.1 4.2 4.4 4.7
LOreal India Pvt Ltd 2.2 2.5 2.8 3.1 3.4
Source: Euromonitor International
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Appendix E: Geert Hofstedes Cultural Dimensions Comparison between India and France
Source: Geert Hofstedes Website
Appendix FLOreal Paris Product Types, Lines and Ranges in India
Skincare Face UV Protection Cleanser Men Skincare
Hydrafresh
For Normal to Dry
Skin
Lip Balm
Instant Freshness
For Normal to
Combination Skin
UV Perfect
Anti-Dullness Purple
Tint
Transparent Skin
Non-Tinted
Hydrafresh
Foaming Cream For
Normal to Dry Skin
Toning Water For
Normal to
Combination Skin
Men Expert Hydra
Energetic
Foaming Cleaning Gel
Anti-Irritation Caring
Shave Gel
Anti-Fatigue
Moisturising Lotion
Hydrating Boost Post-Shave Balm
Pearl Perfect
Day Cream
Night Cream
Pearl Perfect
Scrub
Men Expert Vita
Lift
Anti-sagging
Moisturising Cream
Revitalift White Revitalift Men Expert
White Activ
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Day SPF18
White Essence
Milky Foam
Aqua Milky TonerBrightening Foam
Moisturing Fluid SPF
20 PA+++
Youth Code Youth Code Range
Day Cream
Night Cream
Eye Cream
Concentrate
Revitalift Rejuvenating Home Facial
Day Cream SPF18
Anti-Wrinkle and Firming Night Cream
Day Cream SPF18
Anti-Wrinkle and Firming Night Cream
Day Cream SPF18
Anti-Wrinkle and Firming Night Cream
Cosmetics Face Eyes Lips Nails
True Match
Powder
Liquid Foundation
Roll on
Super Blendable
ConcealorTrue Match Minerals
Extra Volume
Collagene
Waterproof Black
Color Riche
Color Riche Crme
Color Riche Star
Secrets
Colour Rich Made for
Me
Colour Riche Made
for Me Intense...
Resist & Shine
Titanium
Pure Transparent
Pearlescent Rose
Misty Pink
Antique Rose
Boise En Rose
Matte Morphose
Rose Ivory
Golden Ivory
Beige Natural
Rosy Sance
Apricot Beige
Amber
Volume Millions
Lashes
Black
Glam Shine
H6
Reflexion
Double Extension
Renewable Serum
Inside Mascara
Contour Parfait
HoneyPlum
Black Brown
Toffee
Coppered Plum
Black Red
Contour Khol
Dark Chocolate
Jet Black
Golden Brown
Super Liner
Ebony
Paris Blue
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Cocoa
Expresso
Pencil Perfect Self
Advancing
Eyeliner
Ebony
Paris Blue
Cocoa
Expresso
Hair Colour
Casting Crme Gloss
Maghony
Plum
Medium Brown
Dark Brown
Praline
Excellence Crme
Natursl Black
Natural DarkestBrown
Burgendy
Natural Dark Brown
Deep Plum
Hair Care
Colour Perfect
Shampoo
Conditioner
Nutri-Gloss
Shampoo
Conditioner
Smooth Intense
Shampoo
Conditioner
Instant Smooth
Serum
Total Repair 5
Shampoo
Conditioner
Masque
Source: LOreal Paris India Website
Appendix G: EPRG Framework
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Source: Douglas, Perlmutte &Wind. Guidelines for Developing International Marketing Strategy
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Appendix H: Forecast Sales of Premium & Mass Cosmetics in India: % Value Growth 2010-2015
Source: EI
Appendix J: Successful Global Brands Marketing Mix Elements Survey
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Source: Riesenbeck & Freeling. How Global are Global Brands? The Mackinsey Quarterly 1991 Number 3
Appendix I: LOreal India SWOT
Strengths Weaknesses
First mover advantage when LOrealestablished the first wholly-owned
subsidiary in 1994
Increasing company shares which seemsto be taken away from Hindustan
Unilever
R&D centre located in Mumbai andmanufacturing plant in Pune
Establishing head of marketing for theregion (Middle East and Indian
subcontinent)
Has yet to achieve further efficiency incost by exporting products to LOreal
companies in other locations
Brand diversity leading to brandcannibalism with lack of consumer
education
Opportunities Threats Potential growth for premium and
higher-end products with Indias steady
strong economic growth1
Robust forecast sales growth in theindustry (2010-15): Premium Cosmetic s
at 16.5% and mass cosmetics at 7.9%
CAGR2
High rate of import duty encourages theillegal distribution channel in India which
requires extra effort to promote
products3
High market growth attracts morecompetition in the high-end product
group such as Chanel, Estee Lauder,
MAC, Versace4
Appendix K: LOreal Competitive Position in India 2010
1Euromonitor Beauty and Personal Care in India
2
Euromonitor BPC in India Table 143Bhattacharya
4Bhattacharya
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Appendix L Sales and Market Growth by Region
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