Long Exposure

Harjit SinghVin Singh

Why? • Objects move over time (star trails, clouds, water, people, lights, etc)

• Blur out moving objects (people, junk, cars)

• Capture enough light to have a picture

• See objects that normally the eye cannot see (celestial objects)

ISO 50, 93s @ f18

Why Not? • Too much motion results in loss of texture/detail

• Too much light• Freeze action is lost

Equipment required

• tripod?• neutral density filters• timer• flashlight• smartphone (long exposure

calculator)• proper attire in

cold/warmthISO 100, 30s @ f11

Filters • B+W / Hoya/ Lee/ Singh Ray / Tiffen /Cokin etc

• 3 stop , 5 , 8, 10 stop & variable from Singh-Ray/Cameron

• Threaded / Plates with adaptors• Choose 3 stop (a couple) and 8

stop• Choose largest size you have in

lens and then step down/up rings• Some have colour bias and not

completely neutral (shoot raw)

ISO 3200, 32s @ f2.8

Camera Stuff • Long exposures work out pretty well for all cameras near base ISO

• Some cameras will have amp noise for long exposures so use NR if needed

• Long exposure NR doubles your time…a 15 min exposure means 30 minutes before you can see your image!

• Close OVF during daylight long exposures

Picture below demonstrates importance of keeping OVF closed during long exposures in daylight: purple area in lower left corner cause of light-leak.

ISO 100, 30s @ f13

Settings• What we have found is that most of the time we

can deal with minor noise/hot pixels without NR. • Stay close to base ISO unless you have time

restrictions or light restrictions (i.e. stars will trail)

• Use lenses near wide open (i.e. 2.8 or 4) unless depth of field is required or not enough ND filters in your bag.

• Choice of shutter/ISO/f-stop will dictate quality of picture. So if you require minimal noise you may have to sacrifice depth of field for it.

• Mirror up only required if your exp time is around 1/20 second (give or take 2 stops)

• Close review finder in daylight (or night if flashlight/phone near by)

ISO 200, 69s @f-18

Daylight Long Exposure • Change your stop settings to either 1 stop or 1/2 stop.

• Determine what effect you need• Before using filters, compose image• Take a properly exposed image (note

settings) • Put on filter and put AF off• Change camera to Manual and dial in

the settings noted above• Change your shutter speed by the

number of stops your filter is (example: original, no ND exposure 1/60s. With 3 stop ND this will now be 1/8s. 1/60->1/30->1/15->1/8)

• Take shotISO 100, 4s @ f9

Night Long Exposures

ISO 400, 38s @ f4.5

• Before nightfall: Know/mark (tape) where infinity is on lens

• Go to the place you want to shoot at before nightfall or geo-tag location if possible

• Compose for general direction. Set ISO to max. , lens open wide, shoot.

• Adjust according until desired composition and exposure is attained. Take note of reading

• Note cameras only go to 30s then BULB. Anything over thirty requires BULB

• Adjust as per daylight shooting (compensate for the time according to desired ISO, example: ISO 12800@1s becomes 6400@2s or 3200@4s or 1600 @ 8s or 800 @ 16s…) and shoot