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CONTENTS OF THIS GUIDE Tradition vs. 1/2 Price Additions (pg 3) Does my home qualify? (pg 4) High Volume (Box) Sloping (Vaulted) Home Evaluation by an Expert The Art of Blending (matching) (pg 5) I don't want the new room to look "added". Match existing or upgrade. Ceiling Heights (pg 6) I'm concerned that the ceiling will be too low. Natural Light (Windows) (pg 7-9) Will my first floor room be too dark? Windows Window benches Design Features Design the room you want (open vs. enclosed rooms) Stair Railing vs. Low Wall Coffer ceilings Architectural Soffits and Lines Recessed Lighting Ceiling Fans Storage Areas & Closets Room Types Imagine if you had just one more room. Other Required Items Electrical Circuit, Outlets & Switches Air Ducts Permits & Approvals Is a permit required from the building department? What about my Home Owner Association? Use A Specialist Recommended Company

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Tradition vs. 1/2 Price Additions Traditional A traditional room addition are the most common. These are rooms that have been added to some part of the exterior of your home. To build a single story room addition (on the ground floor) your lot (property) must be large enough to be able to build on. You must be within the local requirements for percentage of lot coverage as well as total square footage allowable for your size lot. Two story room additions built from the ground floor up (both first and second stories) must meet the same requirements as a single story addition as well as ridgeline limitations (if any). A third kind of traditional room addition which is a second story addition over an existing single story area of the home. All three types of traditional room additions require the major components of foundation, structure and roofing. There are more components than these three, but for comparison reasons we will just look at these three major requirements. 1/2 Price Additions As long as the existing ceilings in your home are high enough to be converted into a new room the foundation and the roofing typically do not need to be upgraded. This is where you will experience the majority of your cost savings. If your room has a high volume ceiling (like a high box) or sloping (vaulted ceilings) it will typically cost about half and even one third the price of an exterior addition. The new room structure is typically the only major component. This is why homeowners will often times upgrade the area of their home that is being converted with tray ceilings (called coffer ceilings), beautiful railings and other architectural options. High Volume Ceilings (Box style) Vaulted or Sloping Ceilings

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Does my Home Qualify? A simple test is to estimate the ceiling height in the area where you have a high ceiling. Keep in mind that in most California homes the normal ceiling height is either 8 or 9 feet for a regular room. If the high part of your ceiling looks to be 16 feet or more there is a good chance your home would qualify for this type of addition. Many homes with high volume ceilings, such as the one in the photo (picture #1), are 19 to 20 feet in height. If your ceiling is high on one side and slopes down to a low point on the other (like picture #2) your home may still qualify. Dormers (see graphic #1)

If your ceiling is sloping very low it may still qualify by adding what is called a dormer. A dormer is a small area that is raised up to give you more head room (ceiling height in the upper room). It is only required when the new room would be too low. Dormers are typically built to accommodate one window perhaps three to four feet wide. Graphic #1 shows a large dormer with three windows to show what is possible. Evaluation by an Expert If you're not sure you can always schedule an expert to measure your ceilings and determine if the space qualifies. The contact information for the leading specialist can be found at the end of this guide.

Picture #1 High Volume Ceiling

Picture #2 Vaulted or Sloping Ceiling

Graphic #1 Large "3 Window" Dormer

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The Art of Blending (matching) I don't want the new room to look "added". Match Existing This is a phrase that is common in room addition and remodeling projects. "Match existing" means just that. It usually refers to items such as doors, windows and other visible features. Adding a new room is great, but noticing where it was added is not great. So you want your doors and windows to match. Blending Even if you get items such as doors and window styles to match you still need to be certain that the walls, ceilings, textures and trim will match. The smallest differences can make your addition stand out like a sore thumb. How well the new addition blends into your home depends on the quality of the overall design and the quality and experience of the construction crew building this type of addition. For example; new home builders don't necessarily make good room addition builders primarily because they never have to match up to something that is already there. Everything is new. This is the easiest kind of construction. The most difficult is matching to construction materials and techniques that were performed 10, 20 or 30 years ago. The art of blending is best performed by remodeling experts who have the experience of blending critical transitions between the old and the new. The process of blending starts in design and involves the proper selection of materials and the skilled hands of remodeling craftsman. To further complicate matters...If your home was built at least 5 years ago your house has been slowing shrinking from it's original size. The amount of shrinkage in the structure of your home depends upon what kind of materials and wood that was used and how much moisture was in the wood when your home was built. Most homes have several tons of moisture within the structure when they are first built. As the home ages and dries the floor joists, beams and other structural members shrink as much as 1/2 inch. This poses a added challenge to the construction crew. The plans and measurements can be perfect on paper, but the paper on which the plans are written does not shrink like the real thing. Even using the same size lumber parts that were originally used to build your home will not fit well and cause gaps and lines where the new room meets the old. The quality of the finished product will vary greatly depending upon the experience and the blending techniques practiced by the contractor and his crew. Photos can be touched up to hide imperfections so it is best to see a project for yourself or talk to other homeowners who have had the work done.

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Ceiling Heights I'm concerned that the ceiling will be too low. Probably the number one concern with the half priced room addition is how the new room both above and below are going to "feel". If you've been in your home for any number of years you've probably grown accustomed to the high ceilings above your head. The first rule of thumb is that you should NOT build the first floor ceiling any lower than the ceiling heights in the other areas of your home downstairs. If your ceiling height on the first floor is 8 feet high then the area you are building over should also be 8 feet. If you'd like to know how the area will feel simply take a walk into a room that has the same ceiling height and notice where the ceiling is. As long as the ceiling is built to the same height it will not feel or look low. Depending upon how long you've lived in your home you might take a little time to get used to losing your high ceilings, but as long as you match the ceiling heights the room should feel quite normal. You might feel a little sad about losing your high ceiling space above you, but you'll probably soon forget your loss when you begin walking in the new room that now occupies that space and seeing just how much room was hanging above you all this time. Southern California is one of the few places in the United States where a concentration of high ceilings existing. Most builders elsewhere do NOT build homes with high ceilings. Some architects have pointed out that it makes the home appear larger since the lots in California are smaller on average that other states. But this is no illusion. The space needed to produce the "large home" effect is "real space". If it was a mirror on a wall or ceiling it would be an illusion, but the space above your head is "real space". As one homeowner reasoned, "If my high ceiling is suppose to make my house look bigger, why not turn that big look into real room and make my home as big as it looks?". A good question and apparent wisdom when considering how to get more needed space for a fraction of the cost of a traditional room addition. Coffer ceilings (a.k.a. trays ceilings) also help to add height below. (See coffers ceilings later in this guide. BEFORE - LOOKS BIG AFTER- LOOKS BETTER

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Natural Light Will my first floor room be too dark? Probably the number two top concern is; will my room downstairs be dark? Depending upon the number of windows you have and where they are located you will likely lose some "direct" sunlight when you section of the room above with the room below. However, there are some interesting lighting dynamics that occur when adding a new floor system; Firstly, the direct sunlight that may have been coming in from upper windows is not usually lost unless you actually remove the window completely and fail to add another. The direct light is redirected to the upper room and the windows on the first floor continue to supply natural light below. Mathematically, the light that once filled the large open ceiling space is now simply divided into two spaces. If you keep the same amount of window space (perhaps some windows need to be moved up or added) the same volume of light is filling the same volume of home. Secondly, when a ceiling is introduced into a space that was once a high ceiling it becomes a large reflective surface that wasn't there previously. People who have high ceilings often complain that their lamps don't light the room very well. This is because the reflective ceiling is so far above. Unless you paint the new ceiling black it will act to compress and multiply the natural light that enters. What you may have lost in direct light you gain in reflective light. The before and after pictures below help to show the two distinctly different light effects.

BEFORE - Direct sunlight (hard light) fills the high ceiling area and is extremely hot. The primary reflective surface is the bleached rear wall. At night, the chandelier over the dining room table is barely effective.

AFTER - Softer reflective sunlight is compressed by the new ceiling surface and fills the area below. This affect is amplified by the window shutters being slightly open and reflecting the sunlight upward. At night, the chandelier is much more effective with the new ceiling surface close above.

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Window Openings and Ventilation New Construction Windows New construction windows are new windows that are installed into a newly framed opening. This involves cutting siding or stucco (exterior wall surfaces) and interior drywall in order to position a new window. This is common when turning high ceilings into new rooms because often times windows are not exactly where they need to be after the new room is constructed. There are building code requirements that will determine the minimum size for window and how much of the window has to be open-able (for natural ventilation). BEFORE - Window is too low. AFTER - New construction window installed.

It is critically important as shown in the photo above that the hole where the old window was is patched correctly and smoothly. The stucco texture is blended properly and no evidence of the old window location is visible. Below is a picture of a homeowner that got a bargain price as reflected in the quality of the labor.

Driving down the street in Aliso Viejo we found this eye sore. We don't even have to show you the before picture because you can clearly see where the window use to be. It was simply moved up to the new position. This is very poor (amateur) stucco work and this picture doesn't even come close to conveying just how bad this looked in person. No paint job will be able to hide this scar because the texture itself is completely different from the old.

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Replacement Windows These are windows that fit into an existing window opening. This technique is common when a window is in the right location, but it does not open. Homeowners desire that windows open for ventilation and again building code requirements dictate a minimum percentage of natural ventilation. No cutting of stucco, siding or drywall is needed with this type of window installation. Be aware that replacement windows will appear slightly smaller than the original window since replacement windows fit a new frame within the existing window frame which is not removed. This is a cost saving measure and is preferred by most homeowners. Window benches This is a frequently requested design feature. Window bench seats come in different shapes and sizes and can add architectural style and storage space to the new room. The top of the benches have hinges that open up to store pillows, blanket and everything else you don't want to see but need handy. and the front facing area is decorated with a feature called wainscoting.

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Design Features Open vs. Enclosed Open rooms or lofts that overlook to the first floor make your new room addition look and feel open upstairs. Many people are concerned that adding the new space will take away from the open feeling the home currently has. This is a valid concern because building full height walls may very well restrict lighting and feel cramped. Parents can also keep an eye on kids with open space. Open lofts also maintains good light distribution in the rooms and hallway surrounding the new area. Enclosed rooms are the room of choice (full height walls) when privacy is a priority as with a needed bedroom or home office. Our advice is always build the room you need and try to get your contractor to show you what the room will look and feel like using 3D computer graphics. There are three examples of rooms below; open, enclosed and semi-private. OPEN Open loft overlooking stairwell with railing. ENCLOSED Architectural nook for artwork and doorway. SEMI-PRIVATE Play room for the kids with interior window openings (no glass).

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Open Stair Railing vs. Low Wall (solid) Since most high ceiling conversions occur near stairwells the existing railing is often affected. Many homeowners take the opportunity to upgrade their old stair railing to something more contemporary. Open Railing Open railing definitely provides a more open look and feeling of luxury in the home. There are wood railings and balusters, wrought iron and a combination of both. Open stair railing comes in many different styles, colors, and stained finishes. Open railing is usually the more expensive choice instead of low wall. The looks can greatly enhance the look and feel of your home. When adding open railing consider the room or span that it will be crossing. For example; you probably would not want open railing where you plan to place desks, office equipment and furniture. Since open railing is open you can see right through it. Always consider how you are planning to use the room before deciding upon how much open railing to add. If you don't want to upgrade a good railing specialist can usually closely match what you already have. Perhaps you only need to add a small section of railing where the new room is being added or across a small section of new hallway. This is an ideal cost saver and maintains the current look of your home. Low Wall Low wall or solid railing is probably the most cost effective choice. Sometimes it is referred to as a half wall. The minimum height requirement is 42 inches (same as open railing) across new rooms and hallways created by the addition. Low wall is used to keep rooms open, but partially concealed so that work out equipment, office computers, toys and other home furnishings are not in plain view. Low wall is made out of drywall with the texture matching your walls. A single piece of wood or MDF cap can be placed on top of the low wall to give it a more custom look.

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Coffer Ceilings

Coffer ceilings (also called tray ceilings) are a structural feature that can be incorporated into the new ceiling of the first floor. The new floor system above is also the ceiling below and it is usually about 10 to 12 inches in thick. Coffers are created not by lowering the sides down, but by building a thinner structural floor system in the center of the ceiling. The floor thickness above a coffer is approximately 6 inches thick. For this reason coffers cannot be too big otherwise the strength of the floor system will be compromised. Coffers are generally 4 to 6 inches deep depending upon the thickness of the floor system used. Coffers come in various shapes and sizes. Features such as crown moulding, faux beams, clipped corners and recessed lighting are common design options when adding a coffer. Coffers give the room below a little extra height. Homeowners with 8 foot ceilings can usually get between 8' 4" to 8' 6" of ceiling height in the coffer area. Since coffer ceilings have to be engineered properly and they are part of the structural floor system they cannot simply be added later. You should decide early on if the added cost of a coffer ceiling is desired and will fit within your budget.

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Architectural Soffits and Lines Soffits are non-structural architectural features that range from a few inches to create design lines to a few feet to create chases, pathways for ducts and wiring. The design of a home can be greatly enhanced by some simple soffit lines. Bare walls can now take on a little character adding traces of custom elegance.

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Recessed Lighting & Ceiling Fans Recessed can lights are a clean way to install light right where you need it. Connected to a dimmer switch the room can be adjusted according to your preference. Recessed lighting is economical to add while the floor construction is being installed. Since electrical outlets are required for the new room above many homeowners take opportunity to install recessed lights, ceiling fans and fans with lights. Storage Areas & Closets A common by product when building the half priced room addition is gaining extra storage space. This feature is very common in homes that have low sloping ceilings. In cases where the ceiling is not high enough at one end of the room it is best to convert it into a storage space. A fifteen foot room might gain a 12 foot wide room and the remainder (3 feet) becomes storage. A short slab door is added fort easy access. Lights can be installed. You can never have too much storage space.

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Room Types The half price room addition is not limited to just open lofts and bonus rooms. Just about any kind of room you can imagine can be built inside the high ceiling space as long as it is high enough. Take a moment to imagine how you would use your new space. Other Requirements Electrical Circuit, Outlets & Switches According to building code requirements new electrical outlets need to be placed throughout your new room. It is common to have these new outlets on a new circuit breaker. This means that a "home run" (wiring back to the electrical panel) is needed to supply the outlets with adequate power.