lidia's favorite recipes: 100 foolproof italian dishes, from basic sauces to irresistible...

ThisIsaBorzoiBook

PublishedbyAlfredA.Knopf

Copyright©2012byTuttiaTavola,LLC

Allrightsreserved.PublishedintheUnitedStatesbyAlfredA.Knopf,adivisionofRandomHouse,Inc.,NewYork,andinCanadabyRandomHouseofCanadaLimited,Toronto.

www.aaknopf.com

Knopf,BorzoiBooks,andthecolophonareregisteredtrademarksofRandomHouse,Inc.

LibraryofCongressCataloging-in-PublicationDataBastianich,Lidia.Lidia’sfavoriterecipes:100foolproofItaliandishes,frombasicsaucestoirresistibleentrées/byLidiaMatticchioBastianichandTanyaBastianichManuali;photographsbyMarcusNilsson.

p.cm.“ThisisaBorzoibook.”Includesindex.

eISBN:978-0-30796085-61. Cooking,Italian. I. Manuali,TanyaBastianich. II. Title.

TX723.B31898 2012641.5945—dc232012023455

InteriorphotographsbyMarcusNilssonJacketphotographbyMarcusNilsson

JacketdesignbyKellyBlair

v3.2

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Iwouldliketodedicatethisbooktoallmyloyalandcommittedfans.Throughtheyearsourfriendship,bond,andtrusthavegrown,andyouhaveinvitedmeintoyourhomesandgivenmetheopportunitytobringmyItaliancultureandflavorstoyourtables.Youhavesharedmyfamilyandstorieswithyourfamilyandfriends,havecookedmanyofmyrecipes,andhavemadesomeofthemyourfavorites.Isenseyourappreciationformyrecipesandmyteachingsthroughyoure-mailsandletters,andwhenwemeetatspecialevents,atbooksignings,andatmyrestaurants.Iamimmenselygratefultoallofyou—yourhandsandyourkitchensbringLidia’sflavorsalive.Thankyouforallowingmetobepartofyourlives.Icherishandlovebeingthere.

Grazie,Lidia

ContentsAcknowledgments

Introduction

AppetizersShrimpandMixedBeanSalad—InsalatadiGamberieFagioliMistiShrimp“AllaBuonavia”—ScampiallaBuonaviaOctopusandPotatoSalad—InsalatadiPolipoePatateStuffedVegetables—VerdureRipieneEgg-BatteredZucchiniRoll-Ups—InvoltinidiZucchiniFrittiFriedMozzarellaSkewers—SpiediniallaRomanaBreadandTomatoSalad—PanzanellaLobsterSaladwithFreshTomatoes—AragostaallaCatalanaRiceandZucchiniCrostata—TortadiRisoeZucchineGarlicBread—PaneStrofinatoall’AglioBakedClamsOreganata—VongoleRipienealFornoRiceBalls—ArancinidiRiso

SaladsandSoupsScallionandAsparagusSalad—InsalatadiScalognoeAsparagiCeleryandArtichokeSalad—InsalatadiSedanoeCarciofiRoastedBeetandBeetGreensSaladwithApplesandGoatCheese—InsalatadiBarbabietoleconMeleeFormaggioCaprinoRedCabbageandBaconSalad—InsalatadiCavoloRossoePancettaRiceandPotatoSoup—MinestradiRisoePatateTomatoandBreadSoup—PappaalPomodoroPastaandBeans—PastaeFagioliMinestrone,VegetarianorwithPork—MinestroneVegetarianooconMaialeEscaroleandWhiteBeanSoup—ZuppadiScarolaeCannelliniWeddingSoup—MinestraMaritata

SandwichesandPizzaSausage,Egg,andPeppersBreakfastSub—PaninoconFrittatadiPeperonieSalsicciaAsparagus,Onion,andEggSandwich—PaninoconFrittatadiAsparagieCipollaPizzaDough—ImpastoperlaPizzaPizzaMargherita—PizzaMargherita

Primi—Pastas,Polentas,andRisottosSpaghettiniwithOilandGarlic—SpaghettiniAglioeOlioSpaghettiwithQuickGarlic-TomatoSauce—SpaghettiallaSalsettaVeloced’AglioPennewithCherryTomatoes,Basil,andMozzarella—PenneallaCapreseinCrudo

SpaghettiandMeatballs—SpaghetticonPolpettediCarneZitiwithBroccoliRabeandSausage—ZiticonBroccoliRabeeSalsicceTagliatellewithWildMushroomSauce—TagliatelleconSalsadiFunghiShellswithYoungPeasandMushrooms—ConchiglieconPisellieFunghiVermicelliwithRedClamSauce—VermicelliconleVongoleSalsaRossaLobsterFraDiavolowithSpaghetti—AragostaFraDiavoloconSpaghettiZitiwithRoastedEggplantandRicottaCheese—ZitiallaNormaZitiwithSausage,Onions,andFennel—ZiticonSalsicce,Cipolla,eFinocchioBakedStuffedShells—ConchiglieRipienealFornoSpaghettiinTomatoAppleSauce—SpaghettialSugodiPomodoroeMeleSpaghettiandPestoTrapanese—PestoallaTrapaneseStrawandHay—PagliaeFienoSpaghettiwithCalamari,Scallops,andShrimp—SpaghettidiTornolaBasicPotatoGnocchi—GnocchidiPatateGnocchiwithGorgonzolaandPeas—GnocchiconPisellieGorgonzolaBasicRisotto—RisottoCreamyRicewith“Piglet”Mushrooms—RisottoconPorciniRisottowithVegetables—RisottoconVerdureRicewithFreshSage—RisoeSalviaTraditionalRiceandChicken—RisoallaPitoccaBasicPolenta—PolentaBakedPolentaLayeredwithMushroomRagù—PolentaPasticciataaiFunghi

SaucesItalianAmericanMeatSauce—SugodiCarneMeatSauceBolognese—SugoallaBologneseClassicPesto—PestoallaGenoveseMarinaraSauce—SalsaMarinaraTomatoSauce—SalsadiPomodoroButterandSageSauce—SalsadiBurroeSalviaMushroomRagù—RagùdiFunghiMistiRawSummerTomatoSauceforPasta—SalsaCrudadiPomodoro

SidesandVegetablesSmotheredEscarole—ScarolaAffogataSwissChardPotatoes—BietolaePatateOliveOilMashedPotatoes—PurediPatateall’OlioBraisedSwissChardandCannelliniBeans—ZiminodiBietoleeFagioliBrusselsSproutsBraisedwithVinegar—CavoliniBrasaticonAcetoMarinatedWinterSquash—ZuccaGiallaMarinataEggplantParmigiana—MelanzaneallaParmigianaStuffedTomatoes—PomodoriFarcitialForno

Seafood

ShrimpPreparedintheScampiStyle—ScampiGrilledCalamari—CalamariallaGrigliaSoleMeunière—FilettodiSogliolaalLimoneSavorySeafoodStew—ZuppadiPesceShrimpBuzaraStyle—GamberoniallaBuzaraLobsterinZestyTomatoSauce—AragostainBrodetto

PoultryandMeatsLambStewwithOlives—Agnello’ncip’nciapeSausageandPeppers—SalsicciaconPeperoniSausageswithFennelandOlives—SalsicceconFinocchioeOliveChickeninBeer—PolloallaBirraChickenCacciatore—PolloallaCacciatoreChickenParmigiana,NewStyle—PolloallaParmigianaChickenBreastwithEggplantandFontinaCheese—PolloallaSorrentinaMyMother’sChickenandPotatoes—PolloePatatedellaMammaRoastedLoinofPorkStuffedwithPrunes—ArrostodiMaialeallePrugneBraisedPorkRibswithRigatoni—CostolettediMaialeBrasateconRigatoniMeatloafwithRicotta—PolpettonediManzoconRicottaVealOssobucowithBarleyRisotto—OssobucodiVitelloconRisottod’OrzoScaloppineSaltimbocca,RomanStyle,withSautéedSpinach—SaltimboccaallaRomana,conSpinaciSaltatiVealChopswithFontina—CostoletteallaFontinaBraisedBeefRolls—BraciolediManzoPan-SearedSteakwithPizzaiolaSauce—BisteccaallaPizzaiolaBeefBraisedinBarolo—StuffatoalBarolo

DessertsAlmondPineNutCookies—AmaretticonPinoliRoastedPearsandGrapes—PereeUvaalFornoChocolateBiscottiPudding—BudinodiGianduiaAppleStrudel—StrudeldiMeleBlueberryApricotFrangipaneTart—CrostatadiMirtilliedAlbiccochealFrangipanePlumTart—CrostatadiPrugneRicottaCheesecake—TortadiRicottaCannoliNapoleons—CannoloaStratiCrêpeswithChocolateandWalnuts—PalacinkeLimoncelloTiramisù—TiramisùalLimoncelloChocolateBreadParfait—PanediCioccolatoalCucchiaioRicottaCookies—BiscottidiRicottaAlmondTortawithChocolateChips—TortadiMandorleconGoccediCioccolato

Index

ANoteAbouttheAuthors

AlsobyLidiaMatticchioBastianich

Acknowledgments

Iwanttothankmygreatteamforthecreativity,enthusiasm,hardwork,guidance,ideas,testing,andtastingthathavegoneintocreatingthisbook.ToJessicaFreemanSlade,thankyouforyourenthusiasm,forfresh

perspectives,andforyourincrediblythoroughediting.AnddearKenSchneider,thankyouforpullingitallsodiligentlytogether.ThankyoualsotothenewestmembersofmyKnopfteam,PeterGethersandChristinaMalach.Ilookforwardtoworkingonmanymoreprojectstogether.Thankstomyever-dependablekitchencompanion,AmyStevenson,forhershopping,testing,andcontributioninwritingtotherecipesforthebookaswellasforbeingourculinaryproducerforthecompanionTVseries.Forcapturingmyfoodthroughhiseyes,IthankMarcusNilsson.For

tyingupalltheeffortsandhardworkintoawonderfuldesign,thankyoutoCarolDevineCarson,KellyBlair,andKristenBearse.AspecialthankstomyoldfriendPaulBogaardsforhisendlesseffortsinmarketingandpromotingmyworks.ThankstoRobertBarnettandDeneenHowellfromWilliamsConnelly

(wc.com)forhelpingmewhenImostneededassuranceandsecurity.Thisbookwouldnothavehappenedwithoutyourguidanceandcounsel.Aconstantsupportthroughoutmylife,Erminia,mymother,isa

sourceofwisdomandgoodlaughsforme.Thankyoutomydaughter,Tanya,forbeingmyresearchingandwritingcompanionaswellasmyconfidantandpartner,andthankyoutomyson,Joseph,asolidbusinesspartner;afamilytobeproudof.Andnotenoughcouldbesaidaboutmyloveformyfivelittledarlings:Olivia,Lorenzo,Miles,Ethan,andJulia.Theymakeallthelonghoursandhardworkeasy;theymakemesoproudtobeagrandmother.Ialsowanttothankmystrongofficeteam,ledbyShellyBurgess

Nicotra,whohasstoodbymeforthepastfifteenyears:LaurenFalk,togetherwithSaraEaglefromKnopf,whohavekeptmeandmybookinthelimelightduringandaftermypromotionaltravels;RebeccaFornaby,whohaskeptourwebsitevisitorsandFacebookfansinformed;andMeghanLiu,myassistant,whohaskeptmeandmyever-changing

http://wc.com

calendarupdatedandonschedule.Iwouldalsoliketothankthosewhomakemyshowonpublictelevisionpossible.ThankyoutotheAmericanPublicTelevisionteamforalwaysdoingastellarjobdistributingmyshow.Andthankstothewonderfulteamatmypresentingstation,WGBHinBoston.Theirenthusiasmiscontagiousandtheirprofessionalismisexemplary.Myshowwouldnotbepossiblewithoutmysponsors:GranaPadano,Colavita,Perugina,andCento.WhileIamontheroadfilmingandresearching,thereisanarmyofpeoplewhoworkandmakesuremybusinessescontinueonasIwouldhavethem.Fortheirdedicationandhardwork,thankyoutothestaffsofFelidia,Becco,DelPosto,Lidia’sKansasCity,Lidia’sPittsburgh,andEataly.Andabigthankyoutoallmyviewersandreaders.IamsopleasedyouenjoyandameversogratefulforyourappreciationoftheworkIdo.Millegrazie!

Introduction

Ihavewrittensevencookbooksthusfar,andI’msohappytohaveearnedaplaceinyourcookbooklibrary.I’msurethat,asyoureadandcookedyourwaythrougheachbook,youfoundrecipesthatbecameyourfavorites.Somemightbereliablerecipesthatareeasytocook,andothersareprobablymoredifficultrecipesthatareworththeeffort,butmyhopeisthatallofthemaredishesthatyourfamilylovesandthatbecamepartofyourowntraditions.Asreaderstellmeabouttheirexperiencesaroundthetable,it’sbecomeclearthatifIcollectedthosefavoriterecipesandcompiledthemallaccessiblyinonebook,itmightbejusttheLidiacookbookyouarelookingfor.Andhereitis,justforyou:Lidia’sFavoriteRecipes.Theserecipesincludenotonlyyourfavorites,butmineaswell,like

MyMother’sChickenandPotatoes.ItisarecipethathasremainedafamilyfavoriteforthelastfourgenerationsandI’msureithaditsfamilyrootswellbeforethat.Ithasbeenslightlyalteredthroughthegenerations,butthedeliciousnessofthiscomfortfoodremains.Therearealsorecipesthatrepresenttheflavorsandstoryofmychildhood,suchasPolenta,andSwissChardPotatoes.Therearerecipesfromsomeofmyunforgettabletrips,whichwillhaveyoutravelingthroughtheregionsofItaly—makingScaloppineSaltimboccawilltransportyoustraighttoRome;ZitiwithBroccoliRabeandSausageswilltakeyoutoPuglia,intheheelofItaly;andRisottoconPorciniandVealOssobucowillmakeyoufeellikeyou’reinMilan.ThentherearerecipesthatspeakoftheItalianAmericanstory,whichcanbefoundintheflavorsofmySpaghettiandMeatballs,ChickenParmigiana,BakedClams,ZucchiniRoll-Ups,andmanymore.AndasIputthisbooktogether,Iaddedsomeofmynewfavorites,whichIknowyouwilltryandlove.Familyisveryimportanttome,andIlovetocookformyfamilyand

friends,soIincludedthesimpleandflavorfulItaliandishesthatyouwilllovetoprepareforyourfamilyandfriends,likeMinestrone,MeatloafwithRicotta,andSausageandPeppers.Theserecipesallmakefamily-

sizequantities,andcanalsobedividedandstoredinthefreezerforunexpectedcompany,last-minutefamilyvisits,oreven“Ihavenotimetocook”nights.What’simportantisthatthesearealleasyanddelicious,andthewarm,familiarflavorswillbringyourfamilystraighttothetable.Todaymorethaneverwewantandneedtogatheraroundthetablewithourfamilyandfriendstoescapeourdailydistractions,andwhatbetterwaythanwithfoodthatisluscious,nutritious,andcookedwithlove.Formostoftheserecipes,theingredientsareaffordableandeasytofind.Thisisespeciallytrueifyoucookbytheseasons—and,afterall,thatisthebestwaytocook.Todayallofuscareabouteatingconsciously,sustainably,andresponsibly,tokeepourenvironmentsafeforfuturegenerations.Cookingandeatingseasonalandlocalfood,andnotwastingabitofit,issomethingallofuscandotomakeadifferencewhileenjoyingmealswelove.Afavoritedishistimeless,nomatteryourbudgetortheseason,andIthinkyou’llfindthatthesefavoritedishesofminewillremainyourfavoritesaswell.

Continuecooking,andtuttiatavolaamangiare,LidiaBastianich

APPETIZERS

SHRIMPANDMIXEDBEANSALADInsalatadiGamberieFagioliMistiThisisafavoriteofmine,andIamsureitwillbecomeoneforyourfamilyaswell.Iservethisdishatallofmyfamilygatherings,especiallywhenIamputtingoutaspreadofsalads,cheese,andslicedprosciutto.Itisgreatwhenmadewithfreshcranberryandfavabeansinspring,butitisequallygoodmadewithcookeddriedcannellinibeansor,forthatmatter,withotherlegumes,likececi(chickpeas)andlentils.Both

optionsaregivenhere,soyoucanmakeitanytime.

SERVES6ORMORE

1poundshelledfreshfavabeans

1poundshelledfreshcranberrybeans

½smallonion,cutinhalf

2freshordriedbayleaves

1smallcarrot,sliced1stalkcelery,cubed1poundlargeshrimp(about20to30),shelledexceptforfantails,anddeveined3tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil

3tablespoonsredwinevinegar

¼teaspoonsaltFreshlygroundblackpeppertotaste1pounddriedTuscancannellinibeansorothersmallwhitebeans(suchasbabylimaorGreatNorthern),pickedoverandrinsed2freshordriedbayleaves

1teaspoonsalt

Ifusingdriedcannellinibeansinsteadoffreshcranberrybeans:Placethedriedbeansinamedium-sizebowl,andpourinenoughcoolwatertocoverby4inches.Soakthebeansinacoolplaceforatleast8hours.Drainthebeans,andplacetheminasaucepan.Pourinenoughcoldwatertocoverthemgenerously,andaddthebayleaves.Bringthewatertoaboiloverhighheat.Keepingthepotatasimmer,cookthebeansuntiltender,40to60minutes.Seasonthebeanswithsaltabout10minutesbeforetheendofcooking.Drainthebeans,removethebayleaves,andletthebeanscool.Ifusingfreshbeans:Filltwoseparatepanswithboilingwater.Pourinthefreshbeans,andcookuntiltender,about4and8minutesforthefavasandcranberrybeansrespectively.Drainandrefreshthebeansundercoldrunningwater,andremovetheouterskinsfromthefavas.Boiltheonion,bayleaves,carrot,celery,and6cupswaterinamediumsaucepanfor20minutes.Addtheshrimp,andcookuntiltheyhavejustturnedopaque,about1minute.Draintheshrimp,andallowthemtocool.Whisktogethertheoliveoil,vinegar,andsaltandpepperinaservingbowl.Addthebeansandshrimp,andtosstocoattheingredientscompletely,andserve.

SHRIMP“ALLABUONAVIA”ScampiallaBuonaviaIhavebeenmakingthisdishforfortyyears,sinceBuonavia,myfirstrestaurant,openedin1971,andit’sbecomeoneofmyfavoritesaftersolong.Inthisdish,highheatandspeedareessential.Makesurethatthepanisgoodandhotwhenyouaddtheshrimp,andthatitiswideenoughtoholdalltheshrimppiecesinasinglelayer(sothepan

doesn’tcooldownastheshrimpgoin).Besuretohaveallyouringredientsrightbythestove—oncetheshrimpgointothepan,it’sfullspeedahead!

SERVES6

3tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil,plusmoreforfinishingdish3clovesgarlic,finelychopped1pound(about25)extra-largeshrimp,completelyshelled,deveined,andcutinto3pieces

1tablespoonchoppedfreshchives

½cupdrywhitewine4tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,cutinto4pieces

1tablespoonfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice

1tablespoonchoppedfreshItalianparsley,plusparsleysprigsforgarnishifdesired½teaspoonhotredpepperflakesSalttotaste6slicesItalianbread(about¼inchthickand2½incheswide),toastedandkeptwarm1lemon,cutintoslices

Heattheoliveoilinalargeskilletovermediumheat.Addthegarlic,andcook,shakingthepan,untillightgolden,about2minutes.Raisetheheattohigh,addtheshrimp,andcookuntiltheyturnbrightpinkandaresearedonallsides,about2minutes.Stirinthechoppedchives,thenaddthewine,butter,andlemonjuice.Bringtoaboil,andcookuntiltheshrimparebarelyopaqueinthecenterandthesauceisreducedbyhalf,

about2minutes.Stirinthechoppedparsleyandcrushedredpepper.Seasonwithsalt.Placeapieceofwarmtoastinthecenterofeachofsixwarmplates.Spoontheshrimpandsauceoverthetoast,drizzlingsomeofthesaucearoundthetoast.Decoratetheplateswithlemonslices,andwiththeparsleysprigsifdesired.

OCTOPUSANDPOTATOSALAD

InsalatadiPolipoePatate

TherewasatimewhenAmericansweresqueamishabouteatingoctopus,butnowthisisafavoriteandastapleonthemenuatFelidia.Octopushascomeofageasadeliciousingredient,andanyrespectablerestauranthasanappetizerthatincludesit;atmyhouse,ithasalwaysbeenpopular,evenwiththekids.Thissaladcanbemadeinadvance,butjustkeepinmindthatthe

potatoesgethardandwaxywhenrefrigerated,sorefrigeratetheoctopusbutleavethepotatoesatroomtemperature.Youcantossthemtogetherjustbeforeserving.Yourfishmonger(orsupermarketfishcounter)willoftenhavetenderizedoctopus,whichmostlikelyhasbeendefrosted.Usuallyanoctopusweighsabout2or3pounds,butshrinkstohalfitsoriginalsizewhencooked.ForthisrecipeIrecommendIdahopotatoes,butit’snicetomix

theseupwithwhateverisinseason,beitRedBliss,fingerlings,orthepurplePeruvianpotatoesthatarenowalltherage.

SERVES6

2-to-3-poundoctopus,cleaned

1winecork

2freshbayleaves,or3driedSaltandfreshlygroundblackpeppertotaste2mediumIdahopotatoes,whole5tablespoonsoliveoil

3tablespoonsredwinevinegar

1redonion,thinlysliced

2tablespoonschoppedfreshItalianparsley

Lemonwedgesforgarnish

Placetheoctopus,winecork,bayleaves,andsaltandpepperinalargepot.Covergenerouslywithwater,andbringtoaboil.Reducetheheat,andcooktheoctopusatavigoroussimmeruntiltenderbutslightlyaldente,about25minutes.(Testperiodicallybyinsertingthetinesofaforkintothethickestpartoftheoctopus.Itisdonewhentheforkpenetrateseasilyandcanberemovedwithonlyalittleresistance.)Meanwhile,coverthepotatoeswithcoldwaterinasecondpot,andbringtoaboil.Cookabout25minutes,untiljusttender,thencool,peel,andcuttheminto1-inchcubes.Draintheoctopus,discardingthebayleavesandcork.Cutthetentaclesawaywheretheyjointhehead.Cleantheoctopushead,whichlookslikeapouchthesizeofyourfist,bysqueezingoutthecorewithyourfingers,andcutthemeatintothinslices.Cutthetentaclesintoinch-longpieces,andtosstheoctopuspieceswiththewarmpotatoes.Tosswiththeoliveoil,red-winevinegar,onion,andparsley.Placeonaplate,garnishwithlemonwedges,andserve.

STUFFEDVEGETABLESVerdureRipiene

Italianswillstuffjustaboutanyvegetablewitheitherbreadormeat,andstuffedvegetablesareafavoritealongtheItalianpeninsula.AplatterofbakedstuffedvegetablesisadelightthatyouseeinmanyrestaurantsasyoutravelaroundItaly,butthearrayisneverexactlythesame,withvegetablesvaryingfromregiontoregion.TherearemanywaystostuffanItalianvegetable,butthisrecipeisoneofmyfavorites.HereIgiveyouthisdeliciousandeasybreadstuffing,alongwith

proceduresforpreparingandbakingafewofthemosttypicalvegetables—bellpeppers,mushrooms,sweetonions,tomatoes,andzucchini.I’vekepttheamountofthevegetablesloose,soyoucanmakeasmanyasyouwantandchangethevegetablesaccordingtoseason,creatinganewrecipeeverytime.

MAKESABOUT3DOZENVEGETABLEMORSELS

FORTHESTUFFING

4cups1-inchcubesofday-oldordrycountrybread,crustsremoved(about4thickslices)

1cupmilk

¼ouncedriedporcini(about¼cuplooselypackedpieces),soakedin2cupswarmwater

1cupfinelychoppedscallions

10largefreshbasilleaves,finelychopped½cupfreshlygratedGranaPadanoorParmigiano-Reggianocheese

1teaspoonkoshersalt

2largeeggs,lightlybeatenFORTHEVEGETABLEASSORTMENT2ormoremediumzucchini(6incheslong)2ormoreredorothercolorfulbellpeppers12ormorelargewhitestuffingmushrooms

3ormoresmallripetomatoes

2ormorelargeVidaliaorothersweet,flatonions1½teaspoonskoshersalt½cupextra-virginoliveoil,plusmoreasneededButterforthebakingdishes½cupfreshlygratedGranaPadanoorParmigiano-Reggianocheese

Tomakethestuffing:Pourthemilkoverthebreadcubesinabowl;tosswell,andletsitforacoupleofminutes.Whenthey’resoftened,gatherandpressthecubestogether,squeezingoutanyexcessmilk,andreturnthemoistenedbreadtoadrybowl,tearingitintoshredswithyourfingers.Lifttherehydratedporcinipiecesfromthesoakingliquid,squeezefirmly(savingalltheliquid),andchopthemintofinebits.Scatterthechoppedporcini,scallions,basil,gratedcheese,and1teaspoonsaltontopofthetornbread,andtosstocombine.Stirinthebeateneggswithawoodenspoon(ormixwithyourhands)toformawell-blended,fairlydensestuffing.Topreparezucchiniforstuffing:Trimofftheends,andslicethesquashesinhalflengthwise.Scoopoutthecentralpulpandanyseedswithateaspoonormelonballer,soeachhalfresemblesahollowedboat.Cutthelonghalvescrosswiseintoserving-sizepieces,about3incheslong.Topreparethebellpeppersforstuffing:slicethemlengthwiseinhalf,startingatthestem,orinthirdsifverylarge;trimawaythestemandallseedsandfibers,formingcuplikepieces.Topreparethemushrooms,tomatoes,andonions:Pulloutthestemsofthemushrooms,leavingthehollowcapsforstuffing.Cutthetomatoes

inhalfcrosswise,andsqueezeouttheseedstomakeconcavitiesforstuffing.Peeltheonions,andcutthemcrosswiseinto¾-inch-thickslices.Whenallthevegetablesarepreppedandallbutonionsarehollowed,putthepieces(excepttheonionslices)inalargebowl.Seasonwithsalt.Brushsomeoftheoilontheonionslices,keepingthemwhole.Thentosstheremainingoliveoiland½teaspoonsaltwiththevegetablesinthebowl.Tostuffandbakethevegetables:Butterthebakingdishes,arrangearack(ortwo,ifnecessary)intheoven,andheatto425degreesF.Forthezucchini,peppers,tomatoes,andmushrooms,fillthecavitieswithaboutatablespoonofstuffingandarrangeallthepiecesinabakingdish,withabitofspacebetweenthem.Laytheonionslicesflatinthedish,andmoundaspoonfulofstuffingontopofeachslice.Whenthedishesarefilled(butnotcrowded),sprinkleallthevegetablepiecesevenlywiththegratedcheeseandremaining½teaspoonsalt.Scrapeanyoliveoilleftinthevegetablebowloverthestuffedpieces,andpourthereservedporcini-soakingliquid(leavingbehindanygrittyresidue)intothebottomofeachbakingdish.Covereachdishwithatentoffoil,pressingitagainstthedishsides;makesurethefoildoesn’ttouchthestuffingortopsofthevegetables.Bake30minutes,untilthevegetableshavestartedtosoftenandreleasejuices,thenremovethefoiltentsandbakeuntilthestuffingiscrispyandbrown,another30minutesorso.Switchthepositionofthedishesintheovenonceortwice,soallthepiecescookandcolorevenly.Servehotfromtheoven,orletthevegetablescoolandserveatroomtemperature.

EGG-BATTEREDZUCCHINIROLL-UPS

InvoltinidiZucchiniFritti

Thisisapicnicfavorite:thebite-sizerollsareperfecttopopintoyourmouthatroomtemperature.Zucchiniisreadilyavailableandaffordable,especiallyinthesummertime,andwhenpreparedwithalittleimagination,asinthisdish,itisdeliciousandfestive-looking.ThisfavoriterecipefirstappearedinLidia’sFamilyTable.Ihaveliterallygrownuponzucchinipreparedthisway—slicedintothinstrips,dippedinegg,andfried.ItwasoneofmyfavoritevegetableswhenIwaslittle,andmymotheroftenmadeourschoollunchsandwicheswiththesestrips.

SERVES10ASHORSD’OEUVRESOR6ASASIDEDISH

2pounds(5or6)smallzucchini2cupsall-purposeflourfordredging

5largeeggs

¾teaspoonsalt,ormoretotasteFreshlygroundblackpeppertotaste

Canolaoilforfrying(2cupsormore,dependingonskilletsize)1or2tablespoonswell-drainedtinybrinedcapersFreshlysqueezedjuiceofabout½lemon

Tocoatandfrythezucchini:Rinseanddrythezucchini,andtrimoffthestemandblossomends.Useasharpknifetoslicethesquashlengthwiseintostripsabout⅛inchthick,flexiblebutnotpaper-thin.(Youshouldgetfiveorsixstripsfromeachsmallzucchini.)Dumptheflourintoawidebowlorshallowdish.Beattheeggswellinanotherwidebowl,stirringin½teaspoonofthesaltandsomegrindsofpepper.Setawidecolanderonaplate,todrainthebatteredstripsbeforefrying.Tumblefiveorsixzucchinistripsatatimeintheflour,coatingthemwellonbothsides.Shakeoffthelooseflour,andslidethestripsintothebeateneggs.Turnandseparatethestripswithaforksothey’recoveredwithbatter;pickthemuponeatatime,lettingtheexcesseggdripbackintothebowl;laythestripsinthecolander.Dredgeandbatterallthezucchinistripsthisway,andletthemdrain.Addtheeggdrippingscollectedunderthecolandertothebatter,ifyouneedmore.Pour⅓inchofcanolaoilintoadeepskillet,andsetitovermedium-highheat.Coverabakingsheetorlargeplatterwithseverallayersofpapertoweling,andplaceitnearthestove.Whentheoilisveryhotbutnotsmoking,testitbydroppinginhalfastripofbatteredzucchini.Itshouldsizzleactivelyandbegintocrisparoundtheedges,butnotsmokeordarken.Whentheoilisready,quicklyslipseveralstripsintotheskillet,usingkitchentongsoralongforktoavoidspattersofhotoil.Don’tcrowdthestrips—nomorethansevenatatimeina12-inchpan—sotheycrispquicklyandwon’tabsorboil.Frythezucchinistripsinbatches,andwhentheyaregoldenonbothsides,removethemandsetthemonthepapertowelstodrain.Saltthemlightly,andlayadditionalpapertowelsoverthefriedstrips,soyoucanlayeroverthemthenextonestocomeoutoftheskillet.Lettheslicescoolforafewminutes.Toformtheroll-ups:Placeafriedstriponyourworktable,withthewiderend(fromtheblossomendofthezucchini)closertoyou.Placethreeorfourcapersonthatend,thenrollthestriptightly,enclosingthecapersinthecenter.Weaveatoothpickallthewaythroughtheroll-up,

soitstaystogether.Rollupallthestrips,orasmanyasyouwant.Justbeforeserving,standtheroll-upsonendandsqueezedropsoflemonjuicealloverthespiraltops.Arrangethemonaservingplatter.(IfyoulikecapersasmuchasIdo,scatteranotherteaspoonorsoofdrainedcapersallover.)

FRIEDMOZZARELLASKEWERSSpiediniallaRomanaNoonecanresistfriedcheese,andtheseItalianmini-sandwichesarenoexception.TheyareaclassicdishinItalianAmerican

cooking,andespeciallybelovedbyanyonefondofgrilledcheesesandwiches.Firmwhitebreadisrecommendedintherecipe,but

multigrainorwhole-wheatwillbejustasdelicious.

SERVES4

2tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil

5clovesgarlic,chopped

4anchovyfillets

3tablespoonsdrainedtinycapersinbrine

2tablespoonsunsaltedbutter

½cupdrywhitewine

3tablespoonsfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice

8slicesfirmwhitebread,crustsremoved12ouncesfreshmozzarella,thinlyslicedAll-purposeflourfordredging2largeeggs

2tablespoonsmilk

Vegetableoilforfrying

1tablespoonchoppedfreshItalianparsley

Makethesauce:Pourtheoliveoilintoalargeskillet,andsetovermedium-highheat.Whentheoilishot,addthechoppedgarlic,andcookuntilitissizzlingandfragrant,takingcarenottoburnit.Addtheanchoviesandcapers,andstiruntiltheybothdissolveintotheoil.Plopinthebutter;onceitismelted,pourinthewhitewineandlemonjuice.Bringtoanenergeticsimmer,andcookuntilreducedbyhalf,about6to7minutes.Removeandkeepwarm.Layfourslicesofbreadonyourworksurface.Topwiththeslicedmozzarella,trimmingthecheesetofitwithintheedgesofthebread.Topwithremainingbreadtomakefoursandwiches,andsealeachsandwichateachcornerwithatoothpick.Spreadtheflouronarimmedplate.Beattheeggsandmilktogetherinawide,shallowbowl.Heatabout½inchvegetableoilinaskilletovermediumheat;theoilisreadywhenacrustofbreadsizzlesoncontact.Dredgethesandwicheswellintheflour,makingsuretocoatallsidesandtapofftheexcess.Soakthesandwichesonallsidesintheegg,lettingtheexcesseggdripbackintothebowl.Carefullyeasethesandwichesintotheoil,andfryuntilthey’regoldenbrownonbothsidesandthecheeseismelted,about1to2minutesperside.Removethesandwiches,anddrainwellonpapertowels.Removethetoothpicksfromsandwiches,anduseaserratedknifetocuttheminhalfonthediagonal.Returnthesaucetoasimmer,andstirintheparsley.Spreadthesauceonfourservingplates,thentopeachplatewithasandwichandservehot.

BREADANDTOMATOSALAD

Panzanella

PanzanellahasbecomeafavoritedishtocookbackhomeamongpeoplewhohavetraveledtoItaly,evokingmemoriesofTuscansunshineandagoodglassofChianti.It’ssoeasytomakethatanyonewhohasbeentoItalybringsthisrecipeback.TheversionIsharewithyouhereismadewithonions—redonions,orevensweetonionslikeVidalia,willbedelicious.Youcanservethissaladonitsown,orwithaplateofmozzarellaandprosciutto,asagreatstarterorasamaincourse.Countrybreadisrecommended,butrusticwhole-grainorwhole-

wheatisagreatsubstitute.

SERVES6

1pound2-day-oldcountry-stylebread,crustsremoved,cutinto½-inchcubes(about8cups)2poundsripetomatoesatroomtemperature,cored,seeded,andcutinto½-inchcubes(about4cups)

1cupcoarselydicedredonion

12freshbasilleaves,shredded,plusafewextrasprigsforgarnish5tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil

3tablespoonsred-winevinegar

Saltandfreshlygroundblackpeppertotaste

Tossthebread,tomatoes,onion,andshreddedbasilleavesinalargebowluntilwellmixed.Drizzletheoliveoilandvinegaroverthesalad,andtosstomixthoroughly.Seasontotastewithsaltandpepper,andletstand10minutesbeforeserving.Decoratewithsprigsoffreshbasil.

LOBSTERSALADWITHFRESHTOMATOESAragostaallaCatalana

ThereisnothingIenjoymorethanworkingmywaythroughalobsterorcrab,pluckingthemeatoutoftheshellandsavoringeachmorsel.Thesucculentflavorsofthesaladandthefunofpickingatthelobsterarethedrawofthisdish,butIalsolovethebeautifulcolorsofthesalad.Ifyoudonotfeellikeworkingthroughlobstershells,shrimpwill

workaswell,aslongasyouaresurenottoovercookit.

SERVES6ASANAPPETIZERSALAD,OR4ASAMAIN-COURSESALAD

1teaspoonkoshersalt,plus6tablespoonsforthelobsterpotTwo1¼-poundlivelobsters3or4ripefreshtomatoes(about1½pounds),or1poundsweet,ripecherrytomatoes2or3tenderstalkscelerywithaniceamountofleavesFreshlysqueezedjuiceof2largelemons(about⅓cup)2largehard-cookedeggs,peeledandchopped¼teaspoonhotredpepperflakes,ortotaste¾cupextra-virginoliveoil


Fillalargepotwith6quartswater,add6tablespoonssalt,andbringtoarollingboil.Whenthewaterisatarollingboil,dropinthelobsters,andcookthem,uncovered,forexactly10minutesafterthewaterreturnstotheboilingpoint(andthenkeepitboiling).Attheendof10minutes(oracoupleofminuteslongerifthelobstersarelargerthan1¼pounds),liftthelobstersfromthepot,rinsewithcoldwater,drain,andletthemcool.Coreandcutthetomatoesintowedges,about1inchthick(ifyou

havecherrytomatoes,cuttheminhalf).Chopthecelerystalkscrosswise

into1-inchpieces,androughlychoptheleaves.Tossthetomatoesandcelerytogetherinalargebowlwith½teaspoonofthesalt.Whenthelobstersarecoolenoughtohandle,twistandpullofftheclawsandknucklesegmentswheretheknucklesattachtothefrontofthebody.Laytheclawlesslobstersflatonacuttingboard,andsplittheminhalflengthwise,fromheadtotail,withaheavychef’sknife.Separatethemeatytailpiecesfromthecarcass(orbody)ofthefoursplithalves.Cutthelobsterbodymeatandshellintopiecesofwhateversizeyoulike,puttingthepiecesinalargemixingbowlasyouwork.Separatetheknucklesfromtheclaws,andcrackopentheshellsofbothknucklesandhardclawpincerswiththethickedgeoftheknifeblade,orkitchenshears,exposingthemeat.Choptheknucklesintopiecesatthejoints.Cutthetailpiecescrosswiseintochunks,orleavethemwhole(whichIprefer).Cutthecarcasspiecescrosswiseintwo,withthewalkinglegsstillattached(thoughyoucancutthemoff).Iliketoleavethetomalleyandroeinthebodypieces,asaspecialtreatwhileeatingthesalad.(Asanalternative,removethetomalleyandroeandwhiskthemintothedressing.Oryoucanremovethemanddiscard,ifthey’renottoyourliking.)Tomakethedressing:Whisktogetherthelemonjuice,choppedeggs,hotredpepperflakes,andremaining½teaspoonsalt.Pourintheoliveoilinaslowstream,whiskingsteadilytoincorporateitintoasmoothdressing.Toserve:Addthetomatoesandcelerytothebowloflobsterpieces.Pourinthedressing,andtumbleeverythingtogetheruntilevenlycoated.Scattertheparsleyontop.Arrangethesaladonalargeplatter,orcomposeindividualservingsonsaladplates.

RICEANDZUCCHINICROSTATATortadiRisoe

ZucchineThedoughforthiscrostata,orsavorytart,iseasytorollout,andthefillingisinexpensiveandeasytomakeaswell.Atmyhousewemakeitwheneverweexpectguests,orjustthefamily,tocomeover,andweneverhaveleftovers.Peoplejustkeepwalkingbytheplate,pickingupapieceortwo,andpoppingitintotheirmouths.ThisismydaughterTanya’sfavoritewhensheisexpectingguests,becauseitcanbemadeinadvanceandkeptwarmintheoven,readyforpassingasanhorsd’oeuvrewithaglassofProsecco.There’soneimportantsteptonotehere:sincesquashisawatery

vegetable,andriceisdryandstarchy,theyneedtosteeptogether.Steepingallowsthericetoextractmostofthevegetalwaterfromthezucchini,softeningthegrainenoughtocookduringthebakingtime,andtheresultisamoist,creamy,andflavorfulfilling.Forthechangeofseasons,thezucchiniinthisrecipecanbeeasily

replacedwithwintersquash,makingitafestivefall-winterrecipe.

MAKES15ORMOREAPPETIZERSLICES,ORSEVERALDOZENHORSD’OEUVRES

FORTHEDOUGH

2cupsall-purposeflour,plusmoreforrollingoutthedough

1teaspoonkoshersalt

½cupextra-virginoliveoil⅓cupcoldwater,plusmoreasneededFORTHEFILLING

1poundsmallzucchini

½cupItalianshort-grainrice(suchasArborio,Carnaroli,orVialoneNano)2cupsricotta,drainedovernight1cupgratedGranaPadanoorParmigiano-Reggianocheese2bunchesscallions,finelychopped(about2cups)3largeeggs,lightlybeaten2cupsmilk

2teaspoonskoshersalt

Butterforthebakingpan

Tomakethedough:Pourtheflourandsaltintoafoodprocessorfittedwiththemetalblade.Pulseafewsecondstoaeratethedough.Mixtheoilandwatertogetherand,withtheprocessorrunning,pourtheliquidthroughthefeedtubeandmixforabout30seconds,untilasoftdoughformsandgathersontheblade.Ifitdoesn’tform,thedoughisprobablytoodry,soaddmorewaterinsmallamountsuntilyouhaveasmooth,verysoftdough.Turnthedoughoutontoalightlyflouredsurface,andkneadbyhandforaminute.Patintoarectangle,andwraplooselyinplasticwrap.Letrestatroomtemperaturefor½hour.Tomakethefilling:Shredthezucchinionthecoarseholesofaboxgraterintoalargebowl.Tossthericeandshreddedzucchinitogether,andletsitfor30minutestoanhour,untilthegrainshaveabsorbedthevegetableliquid.Foldinthericotta(breakingupanylumps),thenthegratedcheese,scallions,beateneggs,milk,andsalt,stirringthoroughly

untilmixed.Preheattheovento375degreesF.Spreadthebutteronthebottomandsidesofa12-by-18-inchrimmedbakingsheet(ahalf-sheetpan).Rollthedoughonalightlyflouredsurfacetoarectanglethat’satleast4incheslongerandwiderthanthebakingsheet.Transferthedoughtothepan,eitherbyfoldingitinquartersandliftingitontothesheet,orbyrollingituparoundaflouredrollingpinandthenunfurlingitoverthebakingsheet.Whenthedoughiscenteredoverthepan,gentlypressitscenterflatagainstthebottomandrimofthepan,leavingevenflapsofoverhangingdoughonallsides.(Ifthedoughtearsasyouaremovingit,patchitwithabitofdoughfromtheedges.)Scrapethefillingintothedough-linedpan,andspreadittofillthecrustinanevenlayer.Foldthedoughflapsoverthetopofthefilling,pleatingthecorners,toformatopcrustborderthatlookslikeapictureframe,withthefillingexposedinthemiddle.Setthepanintheoven,andbakeuntilthecrustisdeepgoldenbrownandthefillingisset,about50minutes.Abouthalfwaythroughthebakingtime,turnthepanintheoven,backtofront,forevencolorandcooking.Coolthetortaonawirerackforatleast30minutestosetthefillingbeforeslicing.Thetortacanbeservedwarmoratroomtemperature,cutintopiecesinanyshapeyoulike—squares,rectangles,triangles,ordiamonds.

GARLICBREADPaneStrofinatoall’AglioEverybodyloveswarmbreadwhenitarrivesatthetable,andwhenithasthescentofgarlicwaftingfromit,youknowithastheItaliantouch.Thegoalinmakingagoodgarlicbreadistorubthebreadwiththecrushedgarlicclove,nottoloaditwithchoppedgarlic;remember,

justtheessenceisenoughtogratifyyoursenses.

SERVES4


3clovesgarlic,crushedandpeeled12-inchloafItalianbreadwithoutseeds

1teaspoondriedoregano

Koshersaltforseasoning

Combinetheoliveoilandgarlicinasmallbowl,andsteepabout30minutes,tolettheflavorsmingle.Preheattheovento400degreesF.Splitthebreadinhalflengthwise,

thencutinhalfcrosswise,tomakefourpieces.Setthepieces,cutsideup,onabakingsheet,andbrushthebreadwiththeflavoredoil,rubbingwiththegarlicclovesandleavingthemontop.Sprinklewiththedriedoregano.Bakeuntilthebreadisgoldenandcrispy,about4to5minutes.

Removeanylargegarlicpieces,andlightlyseasonthebreadwithsaltbeforeserving.

VARIATION:GarlicBreadToppedwithCheese(PaneStrofinatoconFormaggio):Substitute¼cupgratedGranaPadanoorParmigiano-Reggianofortheoregano.

VARIATION:GarlicBreadRubbedwithTomatoes(PaneStrofinatoconPomodoro):Cutsomeripetomatoesinhalfcrosswise.Whilethebakedbreadisstillhot,rubcutsurfacesofthebreadwiththetomatohalves,untilthebreadhasabsorbedthetomatojuices,andthetomatopulphasrubbedontothebread.Seasonlightlywithsalt,drizzlesomeextra-virginoliveoilontop,andserveimmediately.

BAKEDCLAMSOREGANATAVongoleRipienealFornoThebrinyflavoroftheclamswiththecrispy

breadcrumbcoatingmakesthisdishoneofmyfavoriteappetizers,anditisalsoago-torecipeinLidia’sItalyin

America.Thetoppingusedherefortheclamsisalsogreattoputontopoffishsuchashalibut,salmon,orsole

whenbaking.ClamsOreganatahavebecomeaclassicItalianAmericandish,muchbelovedandoftenfoundon

mixed-antipastoplates.

SERVES6

36littleneckclams,shucked,halftheshellsreserved,juicesreservedandstrained1½cupsfinedrybreadcrumbs½cupfinelychoppedredbellpepper¼cupfinelychoppedfreshItalianparsley

1teaspoondriedoregano

½teaspoonkoshersalt


½cupdrywhitewineLemonwedgesforserving(optional)

Preheattheovento425degreesF.Coarselychoptheshuckedclams,andputinalargebowl.Addthe

breadcrumbs,bellpepper,parsley,oregano,andsalt.Drizzlewith2tablespoonsoliveoil,andtosswithaforktocombine.Stufftheclamshellswiththefilling,andplaceonarimmedbaking

sheet.Drizzleeachclamwithalittleofthereservedclamjuice,pouring

anyextrajuice,alongwiththewhitewine,intothebottomofthepan.Drizzletheclamswith3tablespoonsoliveoil,anddrizzletheremainingtablespoonoilinthebottomofthepan.Bakeuntiltheclamstuffingisbrownedandcrispy,about15minutes.Toserve,settheclamsonaplatewiththeremainingsauceandawedgeoffreshlemonifdesired.

RICEBALLS

ArancinidiRiso

TheseareanotherfavoriteappetizerinItaly,theUnitedStates,andmyhouseforsure.Kidslovethem,particularlywhenthehiddentreasureatthecenterissavoryprosciuttoandoozingcheese.Poptheseinyourmouth,makingsure,ofcourse,theyarenottoohot.Arborioriceisrecommendedintherecipe,butthisdishcanbemadewithbrownriceaswell;justmakesureyoucookitlongenough,andyouwillneedtouseabitmorestock.

MAKESABOUT2DOZEN


1mediumonion,finelychopped1cupfinelydicedhamorprosciutto(about3ounces)2cupsArboriorice1cupdrywhitewine

5cupschickenstock

½teaspoonkoshersalt,plusmoreforseasoning1cupfrozenpeas,thawed1cupgratedGranaPadanoorParmigiano-Reggianocheese10freshbasilleaves,chopped4ouncesfreshmozzarella,cutinto½-inchcubes(you’llneedabout24cubes)1cupall-purposeflour2cupsfinedrybreadcrumbs

2largeeggs

Vegetableoilforfrying

Heattheoliveoilinamediumsaucepan;whentheoilishot,addtheonionandcookuntilsoftened,about3to4minutes.Addthehamorprosciutto,andcookafewminutes,untilthemeatbeginstorenderitsfat.Addtherice,andcooktocoatthericeintheoilandfat.Pourinthewine,bringtoasimmer,andcookuntilthewineisalmostreducedaway.Add3cupshotchickenstockandthesalt;cover,andsimmeruntilthechickenstockisabsorbedbytherice,about7to8minutes.Addtheremaining2cupsstock,andcover,lettingthericecookuntilaldente,about6to7minutesmore.Stirinpeastowardtheend,andmixwell;spreadthericeonarimmedsheetpantocool.Whenthericeiscool,putitinabowlandstirinthegratedcheeseandchoppedbasil.Scoopoutabout⅓cuprice,rollintoalooseball,thenpokeacubeofmozzarellaintothecenter.Patfirmlytoformatightballaroundthecheese.Spreadtheflourandbreadcrumbsontworimmedplates,andbeattheeggsinashallowbowl.Dredgethearanciniintheflour,shakingofftheexcess.Dipthemonebyoneinthebeatenegg,lettingtheexcessdripbackintothebowl.Rollinthebreadcrumbstocoatthoroughly.Pouraninchofvegetableoilintoalargestraight-sidedskilletsetovermediumheat.Fryinbatches,takingcarenottocrowdtheskillet,turningonallsides,untilgolden,about3minutesperbatch.Drainthearancinionpapertowels,andseasonwithsaltwhilestillwarm.

SALADSANDSOUPS

SCALLIONANDASPARAGUSSALAD

InsalatadiScalognoeAsparagi

Handsdown,thisisoneofmyfavoritedishes,inpartbecauseofwhofirstservedittome.Mygrandmotherwouldoftenmakethislovelyspringsalad,occasionallytossinginaboiledeggortwo.Thissaladisdeliciousasanantipastoorafirstcourse,orasasidedishtogrilledmeatandfish.

SERVES6

1½poundsfreshasparagus¾poundscallions

1teaspoonsalt

3½tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil1½tablespoonsredwinevinegarFreshlygroundblackpeppertotaste3hard-cookedeggs,peeled

Usingavegetablepeeler,shaveofftheskinfromthebottom3inchesorsoofeachasparagusstalk,sotheycookevenly.Snapoffthehardstubsatthebottom—they’llbreaknaturallyattherightpointasyoubendthebottomoftheasparagus.Topreparethescallions,trimtherootsandthewiltedendsofthegreenleaves.Peeloffthelooselayersatthewhiteend,sothescallionsarealltight,trim,andabout6incheslong.Bring1quartofwater(orenoughtocoverthevegetables)toaboilinawide,deepskillet,andaddtheasparagusandscallions.Adjusttheheattomaintainabubblingboil,andpoachthevegetables,uncovered,forabout6minutesormore,untiltheyaretenderbutnotfallingapart,cookedthroughbutnotmushy.Tocheckdoneness,pickupanasparagusspearbyitsmiddlewithtongs:itshouldbealittledroopy,butnotcollapsing.Assoonastheyaredone,liftoutthevegetableswithtongsandlaytheminacolander(anyfatasparagusspearsmaytakealittlelonger,soleavetheminafewminutesmore).Holdthecolanderundercoldrunningwatertostopthecooking.Drainbriefly,thenspreadonkitchentowelsandpatdry;sprinkleabout½teaspoonsaltoverthem.Slicetheasparagusandthescallionsinto1-inchlengths,andpilethemlooselyinamixingbowl.Drizzletheoilandvinegaroverthetop,andsprinkleontheremainingsaltandseveralgrindsofblackpepper.Tosswell,butdon’tbreakupthevegetables.Quartertheeggsintowedges,andsliceeachwedgeintotwoorthreepieces;scattertheseinthebowl,andfoldinwiththevegetables.Taste,andadjustthedressing.Chillthesaladbriefly,thenarrangeitonaservingplatteroronsaladplates.

CELERYANDARTICHOKESALADInsalatadiSedanoeCarciofi

Celeryisnotusedoftenenoughasaprincipalsaladingredient,buttheinnerstalksoftheheadhaveawonderfulfreshness,flavor,anddelicacywhenthinlysliced.(Makesuretoincludethetenderinsideleavesoftheceleryaswell.)Myreadersraveaboutthisrecipe,andlovethecrunchytextureandthesavoryshavedcheese.

SERVES6

2wholelemons

1quartcoldwater

6firmsmallartichokes,nowiderthan3inches8to12tenderstalkscelerywithleaves,fromtheinnerpartoftheheadFORTHEDRESSING

1½tablespoonsfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice,ormoretotaste


¾teaspoonsalt,ormoretotaste¼-poundchunkofGranaPadanoorParmigiano-Reggianocheese,ormoretotaste

Cutthe2lemonsinhalf,andsqueezetheirjuiceintoabowlwithaquartofcoldwater.Theacidulatedwaterwillkeeptheartichokeslicesfromdiscoloringafteryoucutthem.Totrimtheartichokes:Workwithoneartichokeatatime.Trimoff

thethickoutsideleavesuntilyoureachthetender,paleinsideleaves.Cutoffthetoughbottomofthestembutleavemostofit(aninchorso)attachedtotheglobe.Withavegetablepeelerorparingknife,peeloff

theouterskinoftheshortstem,exposingthefreshlayerunderneath.Next,ataboutathirdofthewaydown,cutstraightacrossthepointedtopoftheartichoke,removingthetipsoftheleaves.Dropthetrimmedartichokeintotheacidulatedwater,andtrimtherestoftheminthisway,submergingthemallinthebowl.Topreparethecelery:Trimoffthetenderleaves,andsliceeachstalkonthediagonalinto⅛-inch-thickdelicate,translucentcrescents.Gentlycutthetenderleavestopiecesofabout¾inch,thentossallthecelery—about2cups—intoalargemixingbowl.Tomakeanddressthesalad:Whenyou’rereadytoservethesalad,removeatrimmedartichokefromthelemonwater,andcut,fromstemtotop,intothin⅛-inchslices;addtheslicestothebowlwiththecelery.Quicklyslicealltheartichokesthisway,thentosstheceleryandartichokeslicestogetherwiththe1½tablespoonslemonjuice,theoliveoil,andthesalt.Shaveabouttwenty-fourlarge,delicateflakesofGranaPadanoorParmigiano-Reggianofromthechunkofcheese,usingavegetablepeelerorasharpknife:eachshavingshouldbeacoupleofincheslongandaninchortwowide.Gentlyfoldtheshavingsofcheeseintotheslicedvegetables.Taste,andadjustdressing.Arrangethesaladonaservingplatter,orportionitonsaladplates.Shavemoreflakesofcheese,andscatteradozenormoreovertheplatter,orplacethreeorfourflakesontopofeachindividualserving.

ROASTEDBEETANDBEETGREENSSALADWITHAPPLESANDGOATCHEESEInsalatadiBarbabietoleconMeleeFormaggioCaprino

Abeetsaladwithgoatcheesehasbecomeubiquitousonrestaurantmenus,afavoritethroughoutAmerica.Thisversionisabitdifferent,usingthebeetgreensaswell—mostpeoplethinkofonlythebeetbulbitself,butthegreensareasdeliciousandnutritiousastheroot,andthisisagreatwaytousetheminasalad.Itisbestwithsmall,firmbeetswithfresh,unblemishedgreens,acrisp,tartapple,andcrumblygoatcheese.Roastingthebeetstointensifythesweetnessyieldsthebestresults.

SERVES6

10to12smallyellowandredbeetswithgreensattached(about3poundstotal)½teaspoonsalt⅓cupextra-virginoliveoil⅓cupgood-qualitybalsamicvinegarFreshlygroundblackpeppertotaste1mediumtart,crispapple(suchasGrannySmith)4ouncesorso

slightlyagedgoatcheese

Preheattheovento400degreesF.Slicethegreensoff,leavingatinybitofstemonthetopofthebeets,thenscrubthebeetsandpokeeachofthemwithaforkafewtimes.Putthemallinashallowbakingdish,uncovered,witha⅛inchofwatercoveringthebottom.Roastthebeets—thewaterwillactuallysteamthemabitfirst—untiltheyareshriveled,dark,andcaramelizedoutside,andtenderallthewaythrough(whenpokedwithaknife)—45minutesto1½hours,dependingonsize.Letthemcoolcompletely.Rinsethebeetgreenswell,trimmingoffthetoughpartsofthestems,andcutthesofterstempiecesfromtheleaves.Bringabigpanofwatertotheboil,thendropinthestemsandcookforabout10minutes;thenaddthegreens.Cookfor20minutesmore,oruntilthestemsarequitesoft.Draininasieve;sprinkle¼teaspoonsaltoverthehotgreens,andletthemcool.Peelthecooledbeets,removingalltheskin,thestembase,andtheroottip,exposingthegleamingflesh.Cutinwedges,andplaceinabigmixingbowl.Cutthegreens(bothleavesandstems)into2-inchlengths,andtosswiththebeetwedges.Whisktogethertheoilandvinegar,withtheremaining¼teaspoonsaltandsomegrindsofpepper.Drizzlethedressingoverthebeets,andtosstocombine.Coreandslicetheappleintothinmatchsticks.Arrangethedressedbeetsonaservingplatterorportionthemonsaladplates;foldintheapplepieces,thencrumblegoatcheeseontopjustbeforeserving.

REDCABBAGEANDBACONSALADInsalatadiCavoloRossoePancettaThissaladisoneofmyfavorites

becauseofthecrunchinessineverybite.Becertaintoslicethecabbageverythinly,usingeitheramandolineslicerorafoodprocessor.Itisagreat

wintersalad,anddeliciouswiththecrispbacon,butIsometimesenjoyitwithjusttheolive-oil-and-balsamic-vinegardressing.

SERVES4TO6

1smallheadredcabbage,veryfinelyshredded¼cupextra-virginoliveoil1poundslicedbacon,cutinto1-inchpieces

5tablespoonsbalsamicvinegar

Koshersalt

Shredtheredcabbageintoalargeservingbowl.Heat1tablespoonoliveoilinalargeskilletovermediumheat.Cookthebaconuntilcrisp,about5to6minutes,thenremovetoapaper-towel-linedplate.Pouroffmostofthefat,andreturnthepantotheheat.Addtheremainingoliveoilandthevinegartotheskillet.Bringthe

liquidtoanenergeticsimmer,andpourthehotsauceoverthecabbageinthebowl.Mopouttheskilletwithahandfulofthecabbagetogetthecrustybitsfromthebottomofthepan,andaddtothebowl.Seasonwiththesalt,andtosswellsothecabbagedoesn’tsticktogether.Servewarmoratroomtemperature.

RICEANDPOTATOSOUPMinestradiRisoePatateThisisthesoupmygrandmothermademost

often,anddefinitelyoneofmyfavorites.Itisoneofthesimplestsoupstomake,andIamsureitwillbecomeafavoriteofyourfamily,too.

Tomakethissoup,besureyousavetherindsofGranaPadanoorParmigiano-Reggianowhenyouhavefinishedgratingit.Keeptherindsinthefreezer,wrappedinplastic,untilyouarereadytotossthemintosoups;theyaddmuchflavorandcomplexitytoanysoup.

MAKESABOUT2QUARTS,SERVING8


2largebaking(Idaho)potatoes,peeledandcutinto⅓-inchcubes2mediumcarrots,trimmed,peeled,andcoarselyshredded2centerstalkscelery,trimmedanddicedSalt

2teaspoonstomatopaste10cupshotwater


LeftoverrindofthegratedGranaPadanoorParmigiano-Reggianocheese,washedFreshlygroundblackpepper

1cuplong-grainrice

½cupchoppedfreshItalianparsleyleaves¼cupfreshlygratedGranaPadanoorParmigiano-Reggianocheese

Inadeep,heavy4-to-5-quartpot,heattheoliveoilovermediumheat.Addthepotatoes,andcook,stirringoccasionally,untillightlybrowned,

about5minutes.(It’sfineifthepotatoesstick;justadjustthelevelofheattopreventthebitsofpotatothatstickfromgettingtoodark.)Stirinthecarrotsandcelery,andcook,stirringwithawoodenspoon,untilthecarrotsaresoftened,2to3minutes.Seasonlightlywithsalt,thenstirinthetomatopastetocoatthevegetables.Pourinthehotwaterandbayleaves,thenbringtoaboil,scrapingupthebitsofstuckpotato.Addthewashedcheeserinds,adjustthelevelofheattokeepsoupatasimmer,andseasonthesouplightlywithsaltandpepper.Coverthepot,andsimmeruntilthepotatoesbegintofallapart,about40minutes.Stirthericeintothehotsoupandletsimmer,stirringwell,untilthericeistenderbutstillfirm,about12minutes.Removethebayleaves.Sprinkletheparsleyintothesoup,andseasonwithgratedcheeseandsaltandpeppertotaste.

TOMATOANDBREADSOUP

PappaalPomodoro

ThissoupwillbringTuscanytoyourtable,anditisdeliciouswarm,orservedatroomtemperatureonahotsummerday.Itisagreatsouptomakeinthesummer,whenthetomatoesaremeatyandripe,butitisalsoexcellentwithcannedtomatoes,andcanbemadeatanytimeoftheyear.Andwhatagreatfeelingitistousethestalebread—wastingnothing.


3tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil,plusmoreforthefinishedzuppa½cupfinelydicedyellowonion6clovesgarlic,crushedandpeeledThree28-ouncecanswholeSanMarzanotomatoes

2cupswater

Five½-inchslicesstaleItalianbread,crustsremoved,cutinto1-1inchcubesSaltandfreshlygroundblackpeppertotaste10freshbasil

leaves,washedFreshlygratedGranaPadanoorParmigiana-Reggianocheese

Heattheoliveoilovermediumheatinadeep,heavy4-to-5-quartpot.Addtheonionandcookuntilwilted,about3minutes.Addthegarlic,andcookuntilgolden,about6minutes.Meanwhile,crushthetomatoeswithyourhandsoravegetablemill.Addthetomatoesandtheirjuicetothepot,addthewater,andbringalltoaboil,stirringoccasionally.Oncethetomatoeshaveboiledfor10minutes,addthebreadtothepotandbringbacktoaboil.Seasonlightlywithsaltandpepper.Addthebasilleaves,andadjustthelevelofheattomaintainasimmer.Cook,uncovered,whiskingoccasionallytobreakupthepiecesofbread,untilthemixtureisdenseandsilky,about40minutes.Ifdesired,removegarlicclovesandbasilleaves.Seasonthesouptotastewithadditionalsaltandpepperifneeded.Serveinwarmbowls,drizzledwithextra-virginoliveoilandshredsoffreshbasilleaves,andsprinkledwiththegratedcheese.

PASTAANDBEANSPastaeFagioli

WhetheryouareItalianornot,youhavecertainlyheardofpastafazool—everyregionofItaly(andtherearetwenty)makesitsownversionofpastaefagioli,andIwouldventuretosaythateveryItalianAmericanhouseholdhascookedpastaefagioliatonetimeorother.ThissouphasthecredentialstobetherepresentativedishofItaliancuisine.It’soneyoumusttry.Thesoupfreezeswell,butkeepinmindthatyoushouldcookand

addthepastajustbeforeserving.

MAKES5½QUARTS,SERVING12

1pounddriedcannellini(whitekidney)beans

6quartswater

3largeIdahopotatoes(about1¾pounds),peeled

3sprigsfreshrosemary

2freshbayleaves,or3dried12slicesbacon,cutcrosswiseinto½-inchpieces(about1cup)4clovesgarlic,peeled¼cupextra-virginoliveoil,plusmorefordrizzlingoverthesoup1mediumonion,chopped(between1and1½cups)2mediumcarrots,peeledandcoarselyshredded(about1cup)2cupscannedItalianplumtomatoes(preferablySanMarzano),crushedbyhandorwithafoodmill,withtheirliquidSaltandfreshlygroundblackpeppertotaste1poundditalini,or3cupselbowpastaFreshlygratedGranaPadanoorParmigiano-Reggianocheese

Cold-soakthebeansinadvance:Dumpthemintoa2-to-3-quartcontainer,andpourinenoughcoldwatertocoverthembyatleast4inches.Letsoakinacoolplaceatleast8hoursorupto24hours.Drainwell.Pourthe6quartswaterintoatall,large(atleast10-quart)pot.Addthedrainedbeans,potatoes,rosemary,andbayleaves.Bringtoarollingboiloverhighheat,thenadjusttheheattomaintainagentleboil.Letcookwhilepreparingthesautéedvegetables.Processthebaconandgarlictoapasteinafoodprocessor,stoppingonceortwicetoscrapedownthesidesofthebowl.Heattheoilinalargeskilletovermediumheat,thenscrapeinthebacon-garlicpasteandcook,stirring,untilgolden,about5minutes.Stirintheonionandcook,stirring,untiltranslucent,about4minutes.Stirinthecarrotsandcookuntiltheonionbeginstobrown,about5minutes.Addthecrushedtomatoes,bringtoaboil,thenlowertheheatandsimmerfor5minutes.Pourtwoladlefulsofthebean-cookingwaterintotheskilletandbringtoaboil,thenpourthecontentsoftheskilletbackintothesouppot.Seasonlightlywithsaltandpepper,andbringtoaslowboil.Cookuntilthebeansaretender,45minutesto1hour.Ladleaboutone-thirdofthebeans,alongwithenoughcookingliquidtocoverthem,intoabakingdishorothershallowcontainerwheretheywillcoolquickly.Letthebeanssituntilnolongersteaming.(Waituntilthebeanscoolcompletelybeforeblendingorprocessing;hotbeanscancausesplatters.Ifyoumust,youcanstirthebeansabittospeedupthecoolingprocess.)Processthebeansandliquidinafoodprocessororblenderuntilcreamy.Returnthepuréedbeanstothepot.Fishoutthepotatoestoaplate,mashthemcoarselywithafork,andreturnthemtothepot.Cookthesoupanother10minutestogivetheflavorsachancetoblend.Letthesouprestofftheheat,covered,10to15minutes.Whilethesoupisresting,cooktheditaliniorelbowpastainsaltedwateruntilveryaldente.Drainthoroughly,andstirintothesoup.Letallrestfor5minutes,thenserveinwarmsoupbowls,withadrizzleofextra-virginoliveoilandasprinkleofGranaPadanoorParmigiano-Reggiano.

MINESTRONE,VEGETARIANORWITHPORKMinestroneVegetarianooconMaiale

AvegetablesoupforItaliansissomethingmorethanthebasicpastaefagiolirecipe:thevegetableswillbechosentofollowtheseasons,andhencethesoupwillbedifferenteverytimeyoumakeit;forexample,asparagussoupsarebestinthespring,andsoupswithbroccolibestinthewinter.Thisisabasicrecipe,butdofeelfreetosubstituteyourfavoritevegetables.


1cupdriedcannellini,kidney,orGreatNorthernbeans,orchickpeasAbout1½poundssmokedporkshoulderbutt,in1piece(optional)


1mediumonion,chopped(about1½cups)Salt,preferablyseasalt2clovesgarlic,finelychoppedOne14-ouncecanItalianplumtomatoes

(preferablySanMarzano)

1teaspoonhotredpepperflakes

2freshbayleaves,or3dried1largeIdahopotato,peeledandcutinto½-inchdice(about1½cups)1cup¼-inchslicespeeledcarrots½cup¼-inchslicespeeledcelery,withleaves4cupsshreddedgreencabbage(1medium-sizecabbagehead)

5quartshotwater

2smallzucchini,trimmedandcutinto½-inchdice(about1½cups)¾cupditaliniorothersmallpastashape,suchastubettiniFreshlygroundblackpeppertotasteFreshlygratedGranaPadanoorParmigiano-Reggianocheese

Fast-soakthedriedbeans:Placetheminalargesaucepanofcoldwater.Bringtoaboil,addthesmokedporkifusing,coverthepot,andremoveitfromtheheat.Letstand1hour.Heattheoliveoilinalarge,heavypotovermediumheat.Addtheonion,seasonitlightlywithsalt,andcook,stirringoccasionally,untilwilted,about4minutes.Addthegarlic,andcontinuecookinguntiltheonionisgolden,about5minutes.Useyourhandstocoarselycrushthetomatoes.Addthecrushedtomatoesandtheirliquid,thehotredpepper,andbayleavestothepot,andbringtoaboil.Addthepotato,carrots,andcelery,bringtoaboil,andcook5minutes.Seasonlightlywithsalt,thenstirinthecabbageandletsimmerfor5minutes.Pourthehotwaterintothepotandbringtoaboil.Adjusttheheattoagentleboilandcookfor20minutes.Drainthebeansandporkandaddthemtothepot,tuckingtheporkintothevegetablessoitiscompletelysubmerged.Bringthesouptoarollingboil,adjusttheheattoasimmer,andcook,covered,untilthebeansaretender,about1½hours.Addthezucchiniandcookuntilsoftened,about4minutes.Removethepork

fromthesoup,andletstandonacuttingboard.Stirthepastaintothesoupandcook,stirringoccasionally,untilaldente—tenderbutfirm—about8minutes.Tastethesoup,seasoningwithsaltandpepperifnecessary.Letrestofftheheatfor5minutes.Whilethesoupisresting,cuttheporkinto½-inchslicesandtentthemwithaluminumfoiltokeepthemwarm.Whenreadytoserve,layasliceofsmokedporkinthebottomofeachwarmsoupbowlandladlethesoupoverit.Sprinklewithgratedcheeseandserve.

ESCAROLEANDWHITEBEANSOUPZuppadiScarolaeCannelliniAsouthern-Italianspecialty,thissouphasbeenafavoriteofItalianAmericanimmigrantsthroughthegenerationsandstillis.Itiseasytomake,delicious,nutritious,andaffordable—alltheelementsappreciatedbythosewhobroughtittothiscountry,andbyallof

ustodaywhomakeitintheirhonor.

SERVES6

1½cupsdriedcannellini,GreatNorthern,babylima,orothersmallwhitebeans

2quartswater

2freshbayleaves,or3dried½cupextra-virginoliveoil,plusmorefordrizzlingoverthefinishedsoupSalttotaste6cups(approximately1head)coarselyshreddedescaroleleaves(preferablythetoughouterleaves),washedanddrained8clovesgarlic,peeledandcutinhalf4to6wholedriedpeperoncini(hotredpeppers)GarlicBread(optional)

Cold-soakthebeansafewhoursinadvance:Dumpthemintoa2-to-3-quartcontainerandpourinenoughcoldwatertocoverthembyatleast4inches.Letsoakinacoolplaceforatleast8hoursorupto24hours.Drainthoroughly.Transferthebeanstoalargestockpot.Pourinthe2quartswater,toss

inthebayleaves,andbringtoaboil.Adjusttheheattomaintainasimmer,pourinhalfoftheoliveoil,andcookuntilthebeansaretenderandonlyaninchofliquidremains,1to1½hours.Seasonthebeanstotastewithsalt,thenstirintheescarole,andcook,stirringoccasionally,untiltheescaroleisquitetender,about15minutes.Removethepotfromtheheat.Heattheremainingoliveoilinasmallskilletovermediumheat.Add

thegarlicandpeppers,andcook,shakingthepan,untilthepeppers

changecolor,about1minuteorless.Removefromtheheat,andcarefully—itwillsputterquiteabit—pouroneladlefulofsoupintotheskillet.Swirlthepantoblendeverything,andthenstirthepanfulofseasonedsoupbackintothelargepot.Checktheseasoning,andletthesouprestofftheheat,covered,10to15minutes.Servewithgarlicbreadifyoulike.

WEDDINGSOUPMinestraMaritataMinestramaritatahailsfromBasilicata,theregionin

southernItalytowhichIdedicatedawholechapterinLidiaCooksfromtheHeartofItaly.EveryonewhohaseventheslightestbitofItalianheritagehasenjoyedweddingsoup(thoughnotalwaysatawedding).Itshouldbeno

surprisethatmanyothercultureshavesimilarsoupsofvegetablesandlittlemeatballs—suchsoupsalwayshaveaspecialplaceatthetable.Thisisoneofmyfavorites,andwithsomecrustybreaditcanbecomeacompletemeal.


FORTHEVEGETABLESOUP

1mediumonion,cutintochunks2mediumstalkscelerywithleaves,cutintochunks1smallcarrot,cutintochunks4plumpclovesgarlic,peeled½cuplooselypackedfreshbasilleaves⅓cupextra-virginoliveoil

7quartscoldwater

1headescarole(about1pound),cutinto½-inchshreds1bunchSwisschard(about1pound),cutinto½-inchshreds1largefennelbulb(about1pound),trimmedandsliced¼inchthick1poundzucchini,cutinto½-inchpieces(about3smallzucchini)

2tablespoonskoshersalt

FORTHEMEATBALLS

4ouncesstalecountrybread,crustsremoved(about3or4slices)½cupmilk,ormoreasneeded1poundsweetItaliansausage(withoutfennelseeds)1largeegg,beaten½teaspoonkoshersaltFreshlygroundblackpeppertotaste2tablespoonschoppedfreshItalianparsley,plusmoreforservingFreshlygratedpecorinocheese(orhalfpecorinoandhalfGranaPadanoorParmigiano-Reggiano),plusmoreforpassing

Best-qualityextra-virginoliveoilfordrizzling

Usingthefoodprocessor,pulsetheonion,celery,carrot,garlic,andbasiluntiltheyformasmoothpaste,orpestata.Heatthe⅓cupoliveoilinalargesouppotoverhighheat,andscrapeinthepestata.Cook,stirring,untilthepestatahasdriedoutandjustbeginstosticktothebottomofthepan,about5minutes.Pourthecoldwaterintothepot,stirwell,thencoverandbringtoaboil.Lowertheheat,andsimmerthebrothforabout15minutes,blendingtheflavors;thenstirinthegreens,fennel,zucchini,andsalt.Returntoasimmer,andcook,covered,for45minutesorso,untilthegreensaretender.Removethecover,andcookatanactivesimmerforanother45minutesorlonger,untilthesouphasreducedabitinvolumeandtheflavorsareconcentrated.Whilethesoupsimmers,preparethemeatballs:Tearthebreadintochunks,puttheminasmallbowl,andpourinjustenoughmilktocoverthem.Letsoakuntilcompletelysaturated,thenliftthebreadoutofthebowlandsqueezeoutthemilkwithyourfists.Tearthemoistenedbreadintoshreds,andtossthemintoalargebowl.Removethesausagemeatfromthecasing,andcrumbleitintotheshreddedbread,breakingupanyclumpswithyourfingers.Pourthebeateneggoverthemeat,andsprinklethesalt,freshlygroundblackpepper,andparsleyontop.Foldandtossandsqueezealltheingredientsthroughyourfingerstodistributethemevenly.Scoopupasmallamountofthemeatmix—aboutaheapingteaspoon—androllitinyourpalmstoforma1-inchball(thesizeofalargegrape).Continuetoformballsuntilallthemeatisusedup.Meanwhile,filla4-quartsaucepanwith3quartsoflightlysaltedwatertopoachthemeatballs,andbringittoaboil.Dropinthemeatballs,coverthepot,andreturnthewatertoaboilquickly.Adjusttheheattokeepthewatersimmeringgently,andpoachthemeatballs,uncovered,about5minutes,untilcookedthrough.Liftthemoutwithaspiderorstrainer,letdrainbriefly,anddropthemintothefinishedsoup.Bringthesouptoasimmer,andcookmeatballsandsouptogetherforabout5minutes.Ladlethesoupintowarmbowls.Sprinkleeachservingwithparsley

andsomeofthegratedcheese,andgiveitadrizzleofyourbestoliveoil.Serverightaway,passingmorecheeseatthetable.

SANDWICHESANDPIZZA

SAUSAGE,EGG,ANDPEPPERSBREAKFASTSUBPaninoconFrittatadiPeperonieSalsiccia

Ijustloveagoodsandwich.Bitingintocrispybreadthatisfilledwithwarm,deliciouslycookedfoodissoincrediblysatisfying.Thisrecipemakesagreatfrittataaswell;sausageandpeppersisanItalianAmericanclassic,andthisisthebreakfastversion,incaseyoucan’twaituntillunch.

MAKESTWO6-INCHSUBS,OR4ROLLS


2linkssweetItaliansausage,removedfromcasing(about8ounces)1mediumonion,thinlysliced1largeredbellpepper,coredandseeded,sliced½inchthick¾teaspoonkoshersalt

4largeeggs

Two6-inchlengthsItalianbread,or4crustyrolls,splitandtoasted

Heattheoilinalargenonstickskilletovermediumheat.Whentheoilishot,cookthesausage,crumblingwithawoodenspoon,untilitisnolongerpink,about3minutes.Addtheonionandbellpepper,seasonwith½teaspoonsalt,cover,andcookuntilthevegetablesarewiltedandlightlycaramelized,about10minutes.Beattheeggswiththeremainingsaltinasmallbowl.Whenthe

peppersandonionsarewilted,pourtheeggsintoskilletandcookuntiltheeggsarejustsetbutstillalittlewet,about1to2minutes.Removefromheat.(Theeggswillfinishcookinginthepan.)Moundthefrittataonthebreadorrolls,andserveimmediately.

ASPARAGUS,ONION,ANDEGGSANDWICHPaninoconFrittatadiAsparagieCipollaWildasparagus,whichIforagedasachild,ismorebitter(andthinner)thanthefarmedvariety,butIloveanyfreshasparagusinthisspringfrittata.Othervegetablesinseason—suchasmushrooms,broccolirabe,peppers,andzucchini—canbesubstitutedaswell.WhenIwasachild,thissandwichwasoftentakenouttothefieldsduringspringplantingforthemerendaorsnack(althoughthebreaddoes

getabitsoggyanditisbesteatenimmediately).

MAKES2HEROSANDWICHES,OR4ROLLS


1mediumonion,thinlysliced½bunchasparagus,peeledandcutinto2-inchlengths½teaspoonkoshersalt

4largeeggs

4ouncesmildprovolacheese,shreddedTwo6-inchlengthssemolinabread,or4crustyrolls,lightlytoasted

Heattheoilinalargeskilletovermediumheat,andaddtheonion,asparagus,and¼cupwater.Seasonwith¼teaspoonofthesalt,thencoverandletsimmeruntilthewaterhasboiledawayandtheasparagusistender,about10minutes.Beattheeggswiththeremainingsalt.Pourtheeggsintotheskillet

overthevegetables,andcook,stirring,untiljustbeginningtosetbutstillwet,about1minute.Sprinklewiththeshreddedprovola,thencoverandcookuntilthecheesemelts,about1minutemore.Uncover,stirtomixthecheeseintotheomelette,andserveonthetoastedbreadorrolls.

PIZZADOUGHImpastoperlaPizzaYoudon’tneedmetotellyouwhyIwouldincludepizzaamongmyfavoriterecipes.Everyonelovespizza:somelikeitthinandreallycrisp,othersdoughyandchewy.Themostimportantelementinmakingpizzaisthedough,andinthisrecipeIgiveyouinstructionstomakeitallin

oneday,thoughIliketoletmydoughriseslowlyintherefrigeratorovernight.MyfavoritepizzaisMargherita,withjusttomato,mozzarella,andbasil,butsometimesIgetacravingtoaddslicesofprosciutto,and

thentosssomefresharugulaontopjustbeforeservingit.

MAKESENOUGHDOUGHFOR2PIZZASORABATCHOF18SMALLCALZONES

1packageactivedryyeast(2¼teaspoons)

1teaspoonsugar

6cupsall-purposeflour,plusmorefortheworksurface

1teaspoonkoshersalt

Oliveoilforthebowl

Heat2cupswatertobetween90and110degreesF.Stirintheyeastandsugaruntildissolved;letsituntilfoamy,about5minutes.Combinetheyeastmixture,flour,andsaltinanelectricmixerfitted

withthepaddleattachment.Mixatmediumspeeduntilthedoughcomestogether.Switchtoyourdough-hookattachment.Increasespeedtomedium-high,andmixuntilthedoughcomestogetherintoasmoothmass,about2to3minutes.Thedoughwillnotclearthesidesoftheworkbowlatthispoint,butshouldnotbetoowet.Addalittlemorewaterorflourasnecessarytogettherightconsistency,springytothe

touch.Scrapethedoughontoaflouredworksurfaceandkneadseveraltimes,untilthedoughcomestogetherinasmoothball.Oilalargebowl,thenturnthedoughinthebowluntilitiscoatedwiththeoil.Coverwithplasticwrap,andletriseuntildoubled,about1to1½hours.Punchdownthedoughanddivideinhalforintoeighteenpiecesforcalzones.

PIZZAMARGHERITAPizzaMargheritaInmytravelsresearchingLidia’sItalyinAmerica,IencounteredmanydifferentkindsofpizzaacrossAmerica,suchasdeep-

dishinChicago,acrackerlikepizzainSt.Louis,andtheclassicNewYorkpizzapie.PizzainItalyisquite

different:it’susuallyasmallpieservingoneindividual,oftenmadewithbufalamozzarella—crispinmost

regionsofItaly,butwithachewycrustinNaples.Ienjoymypizzamostwithathin,crispycrustandbufalamozzarella,asinthisrecipeI’vegivenyou,butthefun

ofpizzaistryingalltypes.

MAKES2PIZZAS

1batchpizzadough½to¾cupMarinaraSauce4ouncesfreshmozzarella,thinlysliced

1tablespoonextra-virginoliveoil

Preheatovento450degreesF.Placeapizzastoneontherackinthelowerthirdoftheoven.(Youcanuseasheetpanora10-inchcast-ironskillettobakethepizzaifyoudonothaveastone.)Dividethedoughinhalf,thenformeachhalfintoaflatroundandletrestontopofyourknucklesonbothraisedfists.Useyourknucklestopulloutandstretchtheroundintoathincircle.Placethedoughcircleonyourworksurface,andpressitoutasthinasyoucanwithyourfingertips.Placethedoughcircleonapieceofparchmentonapizzapeel-paddle

(or,ifyoudonothaveapizzapaddle,slidetheparchmentpaperwith

thepizza-doughcircleontothebackofasheetpan).Spreadhalfofthesauceonthedough,usingjustenoughsaucetodotabouthalfofthepizza’ssurface,leavingaliparoundtheedge.Inthespaceswhereyouhaven’tdottedsauce,layhalfofthecheese.Drizzlewithhalfoftheoliveoil.Slideoffthepizzapeelorsheetpanontothebakingstone(orontoyourcast-ironskillet).Bakethepizzauntilthecheeseismeltedandbubblyandthecrustisbrownedandcrisponthebottom,about10minutes.Removefromoven,andrepeatwithremainingdough,sauce,cheese,andoliveoil.

PizzaStoneApizzastoneisusuallyarectangularstonemadeofterra-cotta—ithelpsinbakingagoodcrustypizzaandfocaccia,becauseitheatstohightemperatureanddispersestheheatevenly,cookingthebottomofthepizzaevenlyandcrisply.Apizzastoneshouldnotbewashed,sinceitisporous—justscrapeandbrushoffanyremainingdebris.

PRIMIPastas,Polentas,andRisottos

SPAGHETTINIWITHOILANDGARLICSpaghettiniAglioeOlioThisisthequintessentialItalianpasta:justabouteveryoneinItalyknowshowtomakeitandlovesit.Itisoneofthose

magicaldisheswhoseingredientscanbepulledoutofthecupboardandturnedintoagloriousmealinabout15minutes.Inallitssimplicity,or

maybebecauseofitssimplicity,itisafavoriteofmany,andmakesregularappearancesatmytable.

SERVES6

Saltforpastapotandtotaste1poundspaghettiniorvermicelli


10clovesgarlic,peeledandsliced½teaspoonhotredpepperflakes,ormoretotaste½cupchoppedfreshItalianparsley1cupfreshlygratedGranaPadanoorParmigiano-Reggianocheese(optional)

Bringapotofsaltedwatertoaboiloverhighheat.Stirthespaghettiniintotheboilingwater.Returntoaboil,stirringfrequently,andcook,semi-covered,untilthepastaistenderbutstillveryfirm,about6minutes.Meanwhile,heat3tablespoonsoftheoliveoilinalargeskilletover

mediumheat.Addthegarlic,andcook,shakingtheskillet,untilpalegolden,about2minutes.Removefromtheheat,andaddthecrushedhotredpepper.Ladleabout1½cupsofthepasta-cookingwaterintothesauce;thenaddtheparsley,theremainingoliveoil,andsalttotaste,andbringtoaboil.Fishoutthepastawithalargewireskimmeranddropitdirectlyinto

thesauceintheskillet.Bringthesauceandpastatoasimmer,tossingtocoatpastawithsauce.Cookabout1minute.Removethepotfromtheheat,andtossinthegratedcheeseifusing.Checktheseasoning,addingsaltandcrushedredpepperifnecessary.Serveimmediatelyinwarm

bowls.

SPAGHETTIWITHQUICKGARLIC-TOMATOSAUCE

SpaghettiallaSalsettaVeloced’AglioThisistheperfectquicksauceforsummermonths,orwheneveryouhavesomeextracannedtomatoes

around.Bythetimethespaghetticooks,thesauceisdone,andwilltasteveryfresh.Honestly,assimpleasitis,Ilovemakingthisrecipe—itisoneof

myfavoritesbecauseitneedssolittleyetdeliverssomuchflavor.

SERVES6

1teaspooncoarseseasaltorkoshersalt,plus1tablespoonforthepastapot

1poundspaghetti

½cupextra-virginoliveoil⅓cupslicedgarlic4cups(ora35-ouncecan)cannedItalianplumtomatoes(preferablySanMarzano),withtheirliquid,crushedbyhandorthroughafoodmill¼cupshreddedfreshbasilleaves(10largeleaves)

Heatthepasta-cookingwater—atleast6quartswaterand1tablespoonsalt—toaboil.Pour⅓cupoftheoliveoilintoalargeskilletsetovermedium-high

heat.Scatterintheslicedgarlic,andcookuntillightlycolored.Pourinthecrushedtomatoes;rinsethetomatocontainerswithabitofwater,andpourthisintotheskilletaswell.Sprinkleontheteaspoonsalt,stirwell,andbringtoaboil.Cook,stirringoccasionally,maintainingasteadyboil.Dropthespaghettiintothecookingwaterwhenthetomatoesare

perkingalong.Cookuntilaldente,drain,anddropitintothesauce.Tossthespaghettiandtomatoesforaminuteortwo,untilthepastaisperfectlycookedanddressed.

Turnofftheheat,scatterthebasiloverthepasta,anddrizzleontheremainingoliveoil.Tosswell,andserveimmediately.

PENNEWITHCHERRYTOMATOES,BASIL,ANDMOZZARELLAPenneallaCapreseinCrudo

Thisisoneofthosepastadisheswherethereisnoneedtocookthesauce—justgetthebestperfectlyripenedtomatoes,thefreshestmozzarella,andthemostaromaticbasilyoucanfind.Theseingredientswillmaketheperfectdressingforpasta,especiallyonhotsummerdays—ratherthanweighingdownthestomach,thispastabecomesarefreshingandtastytreat.Keepinggoodingredientsliketheseonhandmeansthatthrowingtogetheragreatdinneratthelastminuteisabreeze.

SERVES6

1poundripeandjuicycherrytomatoes(theonessoldstillonthevinearethebest),rinsed,dried,andcutinhalf¼cupextra-virginoliveoil,plusmorefordrizzlingoverthefinishedpastaifyoulike1teaspoonseasalt,preferablycoarsePinchofhotredpepperflakes4clovesgarlic,peeled

1poundpennepasta

10freshbasilleaves,shredded½poundbocconcini(bite-sizefreshmozzarella),cutinhalf

Tossthetomatoes,oil,seasalt,andredpepperflakestogetherinalargebowl.Whackthegarlicwiththesideofaknife,andtossitintothebowl.Letmarinateatroomtemperature,tossingonceortwice,for30minutes.Whilethetomatoesaremarinating,bring6quartsofsaltedwatertoaboilinan8-quartpotoverhighheat.Stirthepenneintotheboilingwater,andcook,semi-covered,stirringoccasionally,untilaldente,10to12minutes.Removethegarlicfromthemarinatedtomatoes,ifyoulike,andtossinthebasil.Drainthepasta,addittothebowloftomatoes,andtosswelltomix.Checktheseasoning,addingsaltandmoreredpepperflakesifnecessary.Gentlystirinthebocconciniandserve.

SPAGHETTIANDMEATBALLSSpaghetticonPolpettediCarne

ThisisoneofthemostpopularandrecognizedItaliandishesinAmerica,butitisnoteateninItaly.Strange,youmightsay;butthisdishevolvedfromthekitchensoftheearlyItalianimmigrantsinAmerica.IthasbecomeoneofthefavoriterecipesinLidia’sFamilyTable.HereinAmerica,meatwasabundant,unlikeinItaly,soonSunday,thedaywhenfamiliesgatheratthetable,thesauceforthespaghettiwasenrichedwithmeatballs.WhatmorecanIsay,exceptformangia!

SERVES6

FORTHESAUCE

Two35-ouncecansItalianplumtomatoes(preferablySanMarzano),withtheirliquid¼cupextra-virginoliveoil1mediumonion,chopped(about1cup)

1teaspoonhotredpepperflakes

2freshbayleaves,or3driedKoshersaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper,totasteFORTHEMEATBALLS

½poundgroundpork½poundgroundbeef

1cupfinedrybreadcrumbs

1cupfreshlygratedGranaPadanoorParmigiano-Reggianocheese¼cupchoppedfreshItalianparsley2clovesgarlic,peeledandfinelychopped1largeegg

1teaspoonsalt

¼teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepperAll-purposeflourfordredging¼cupoliveoil¼cupvegetableoil

1poundspaghetti

Passthetomatoesandtheirliquidthroughafoodmillfittedwiththefinedisc,orcrushbyhand.Heat¼cupoliveoilina4-to-5-quartpotovermediumheat.Stirintheonion,andcook,stirring,untilwilted,about4minutes.Pourinthetomatoes,addthecrushedredpepperandbayleaves,andseasonlightlywithsaltandpepper.Bringtoaboil,thenlowertheheatsothesauceisatalivelysimmer.Cook,stirringoccasionally,for30minutes.Crumbletheporkandbeefintoamixingbowl.Sprinklethebreadcrumbs,⅓cupgratedcheese,theparsley,andgarlicoverthemeat.Beattheeggwiththesaltandpepperinasmallbowluntilblended,thenpouroverthemeatmixture.Mixtheingredientswithcleanhandsjustuntilevenlyblended,andshapethemeatmixtureinto1½-inchballs.Dredgethemeatballsintheflouruntillightlybutevenlycoated.Heat¼cupoliveoilandthevegetableoilinalarge,heavyskilletovermedium-highheat.Slipasmanymeatballsintotheskilletaswillfitwithoutcrowding.Fry,turningasnecessary,untilgoldenbrownonallsides,about6minutes.Adjusttheheatasthemeatballscooktopreventthemfromoverbrowning.Removethemeatballs,andrepeatifnecessarywiththeremainingmeatballs.Addthebrownedmeatballstothetomatosauce,andcook,stirringgentlywithawoodenspoon,untilnotraceofpinkremainsatthecenterofthemeatballs,about30minutes.Bring6quartsofsaltedwatertoaboilinan8-quartpotoverhighheat.Stirthespaghettiintotheboilingwater.Returntoaboil,stirringfrequently.Cookthepasta,semi-covered,stirringoccasionally,untildone,about8minutes.Drainthepasta,andreturnittotheemptypot.Spooninabout2cupsofthetomatosauce,tossingwelluntilthepastaiscoatedwithsauce.Removefromtheheat,andtossintheremaining⅔

cupgratedcheese.Checktheseasoning,andaddsaltandpepperifnecessary.Servethepastainwarmbowlsorpiledhighonalargewarmplatter.Spoonalittlemoreofthesauceoverthepasta,andpasstheremainingsauceseparately.Passthemeatballsfamily-styleinabowl,ortopthebowlsorplatterofspaghettiwiththem.

ZITIWITHBROCCOLIRABEANDSAUSAGE

ZiticonBroccolidiRabeeSalsicce

Broccolirabeandsausageseemlikeamarriagemadeinheaven.TheygowelltogetherwithpastaoronaloafofItalianbread.Thebroccoliandsausagepiecesgetintothecrevicesofthepasta,andwhenthey’reservedonbread,theoliveoilisimmediatelysoakedup.EventhoughthebitterandunfamiliarbroccolirabemightnothavebeenanAmericanfavoriteafewdecadesago,whenitfirstappearedinCalifornia’sSalinasValley,itcertainlyhasbecomeafavoriteingredientforItaliansandAmericanstoday.

SERVES4

¼cupoliveoil3largeclovesgarlic,crushedandpeeled¼teaspoonsalt,plus1tablespoonforthepastawater

1poundziti

½poundsweetItaliansausage,meatremovedfromcasingsandcrumbled2poundsbroccolirabe,cleanedandcut¼teaspoonhotredpepperflakes½cupgratedGranaPadanoorParmigiano-Reggianocheese

Heattheoliveoilinalarge,deep,heavyskilletwithafittedlid,thentossinthegarlicandsauté,uncovered,untilgolden,about2minutes.Bringalargepotofsaltedwatertoarollingboil.Whenyouareready,andthewaterisboiling,addthezititothepotandcookuntilaldente.Meanwhile,addthesausagemeattotheoilandgarlic,andcook,stirring,untilgolden,about5minutes.Addthebroccolirabe,1cuppasta-boilingwater,¼teaspoonsalt,andthepepperflakes;cover,andsteam5minutes,stirringoccasionally.Cookthesauceuncoveredoverhighheatforabout3minutes,untiltheliquidsareslightlyreduced.Drainthepasta,addittothesauce,andtossgently.Sprinkleonhalfofthecheese,tossagain,anddistributetheremainingcheeseoverthepasta.Serveimmediately.

TAGLIATELLEWITHWILDMUSHROOMSAUCETagliatelleconSalsadiFunghiThissimplebutdelicioussauceisbestmadewithfreshporcini,butitwouldbealmostasgoodwithotherseasonalfresh

mushrooms.Suchwildorexoticmushroomsasmorels,shiitakes,chanterelles,oranymixcanbesubstitutedforallorpartoftheporcini.Ihavefoundthatpeoplearepassionateabouttheirloveofmushrooms:thecomplex,mustyflavorsandaromas;thetoothsometexturetheycanhave,almostlikeapieceofmeat;andtherich,sensuoustastetheyaddtoany

dish.

SERVES6

Saltforthepastapot,plusmoretotaste


4clovesgarlic,lightlycrushedandpeeled1½poundsfreshporcini,cleaned,trimmed,andsliced

4freshsageleaves

1cupchickenstockorcannedchickenbroth


Freshlygroundblackpeppertotaste1½poundsfreshordrytagliatelle


½cupgratedGranaPadanoorParmigiano-Reggianocheese

Bring6quartsofsaltedwatertoaboilforthepasta.

Heattheoliveoilinalargeskilletovermediumheat.Addthegarlic,andcookuntilgolden,about2minutes.Tossthemushroomswiththesageleavesintheskillettocoattheminthehotoil,andsauté,stirringoccasionally,untilthemushrooms’liquidhasbeenreleasedandevaporated,about10minutes.Pourthechickenstockandbutterintotheskillet,andletsimmerovermediumheatuntilthebutterisincorporatedintothesauce,about3minutes.Addsaltandpeppertotaste.Slipthetagliatelleintotheboilingpastawaterandcookuntilaldente.Drainthemwell,andreturnthemtotheemptypot,nowsetoverlowheat.Addthesauceandparsley,andtossgentlyuntilthepastaiscoated.Removefromheat,addhalfofthegratedcheese,andtosswell.Transferthepastatoaservingplatterorindividualbowls,andserveimmediatelywiththeremainingcheeseonhand.

SHELLSWITHYOUNGPEASANDMUSHROOMSConchiglieconPisellieFunghiIloveusingshellsforthissimplesauce,

becausetheshellscollectthepeasandthemushroomsauceinthenooksandcranniesanddeliverasurprisewitheveryforkful.ProsciuttocanbesubstitutedforthebacontogiveamoreauthenticallyItaliantaste,andotherseasonalvegetablescanbeaddedorsubstituted,aslongastheyare

cutintosmallpiecestonestleinsidetheshells.

SERVES6

Saltforthepastapot,plusmoretotaste1½cupsshelledyoungpeasorfrozenbabypeas


2slicesbacon,finelychopped½cupchoppedspringonionsorscallions2cupscleanedandslicedmixedmushrooms,suchasshiitake,oyster,andcrimini2cupschickenstockorcannedchickenbroth

1tablespoonunsaltedbutter

Freshlygroundblackpeppertotaste1poundsmallpastashells(conchiglie)½cupfreshlygratedGranaPadanoorParmigiano-Reggianocheese

Bringalargepotofsaltedwatertoaboilforthepasta.Ifusingfreshpeas,blanchtheminamediumsaucepanofboiling

water2minutes.Drainthepeas,andrinsethemundercoldwateruntilcool.Drainthemthoroughly.(Frozenpeasneedtobedefrostedanddrained,butnotblanched.)Heattheoliveoilinalargeskilletovermediumheat.Addthebaconandonions,andsauté,stirring,untiltheonionsarewilted,about4minutes.Addthemushrooms,andsprinkle

themwithsalt.Continuetocook,stirringoccasionally,untilallthemushroomshavereleasedandlosttheirmoisture,about5minutes.Pourinthechickenstock,peas,andbutter,andseasontheentirepanlightlywithsaltandpepper.Simmeruntiltheliquidisreducedbyhalf,about10minutes.Checktheseasoning,andadjustifnecessary.Meanwhile,stirtheshellsintotheboilingpastawater.Cookthepasta,stirringoccasionally,untilaldente—tenderbutfirm—about12minutes.Drainthepasta,andreturnittotheemptypot,nowsetoverlowheat.Pourinthesauce,andstiroverlowheatuntilthepastaiscoated.Removefromheat,andaddthegratedcheese.Tosswell,andtransfertoawarmedservingplatterorindividualbowls.

VERMICELLIWITHREDCLAMSAUCEVermicelliconleVongoleSalsaRossa

Pastawithclamsauceismygrandchildren’sfavorite,andIgetnogreaterenjoymentthanwatchingthemslurpdownthepastawiththejuicyclamsauce.Vermicelli,atypeofverythinspaghetti,cooksasquicklyastheclamsdo,sohaveyouringredientsreadyandthewaterboilingwhenyouarereadytostartcookingthesauce.

SERVES6

3½poundslittleneckclams½teaspooncoarseseasaltorkoshersalt,ortotaste,plussaltforthepastapot10tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil,plusmoreifneeded10clovesgarlic,peeledandsliced½teaspoonhotredpepperflakes1cuptomatoesalfiletto—freshorcannedplumtomatoes,seededandslicedinthinstrips4tablespoonschoppedfreshItalianparsley

1poundvermicelli

Puttheclamsinasinglelayeronatrayorplatter,andfreezethemforabout½hour.(Slightlyfrozenclamsareeasiertoopen.)Workingoverabowltocatcheverydropofclamliquid,opentheclamswithashuckingknife,cutthemeatfreefrombothhalf-shells,andletthemeatandliquidfallintothebowl.Reserve8ofthesmallerclams.Collecttheclammeatfromthebowlandstrainthejuicethroughasievesetoverasmallbowlormeasuringcup.Letthesedimentintheclamjuicesettle,thenpouroffthecleanclamjuicefromthetopintoacleanbowl,discardingthesediments.Choptheclamsroughlyintolargepieces.Beforestartingthesauce,bringalargepotofwatertoaboilforthepasta—4quartswaterwith1tablespoonsalt.Pour½cupoftheoliveoilintoalargeskillet,andsetovermedium-highheat.Scatterintheslicedgarlicandthereservedwholeclams,heattosizzling,andsprinklethehotredpepperflakesoverit.Cookanotherminute,addtheslicedtomatoesandthereservedclamliquid,stir,andbringtotheboil.Cookfor2to3minutes,andstirinthechoppedclams.Returntoaboil,andcookatabubblingsimmerfor3or4minutes—iftheclamsreleaseafrothyscum,scoopitoffthesurfaceanddiscard.Whenthesaucehasachievedanicedensity,justenoughtocoataspoonlightly,lowertheheatandseasonwithsalttotaste.Stirintheparsleyandanother2tablespoonsofoliveoil.Whenyouaddtheclamjuice,dropthevermicelliintheboilingwater.Cookbriefly,2to4minutes,thenliftthepastafromthepot,usingaspiderortongs—itwillstillbequitealdente.Letitdrainbriefly,anddropitintothesimmeringsauce.Tossthevermicelliinthesauceforacoupleofminutes,untilthepastaiscookedthroughanddressedwiththesauce.Serveimmediately.

LOBSTERFRADIAVOLOWITHSPAGHETTIAragostaFraDiavoloconSpaghetti

Justabouteverybodyloveslobster,butinthispreparationtheflavorandmeatofthelobstergoalongway.Thepreparationrequiresspaceandattentioninthekitchen,butonceitisonthetable,everybodyrollsuptheirsleeves,anddiggingincomesnaturally.Itisapastaandmaincourseallinone.Makesureyouputextraemptybowlsonthetablefortheshells,andextranapkinsforthehandsandface.Keepinminditisfradiavolo,meaningspicy;ifyoupreferthesauceonthemildside,justreduceoromitthepeperoncino.

SERVES6

Three1¼-to-1½-poundlivelobsters(IrecommendMainelobsters)Saltforthepastapot

1poundspaghetti

1½cupsvegetableoil,orasneeded1½cupsall-purposeflour¼cupextra-virginoliveoil8clovesgarlic,peeledTwo35-ouncecansItalianplumtomatoes(preferablySanMarzano),withtheirliquid,passedthroughafoodmillorcrushedbyhand8wholedriedpeperoncinoordiavollilohotredpeppers,or1teaspooncrushedhotredpepperflakes1teaspoondriedoregano,preferablytheSicilianorGreektypedriedonthebranch,crumbled

1teaspoonchoppedfreshoregano

½teaspoonkoshersalt

Placethelobstersinthefreezerabout30minutesbeforebeginningthe

recipe.(Thiswillmakeiteasiertotakethemapart.)Bringalargepotofsaltedwatertoaboiloverhighheatforthepasta.Removethelobstersfromthefreezer,andstartbycuttingofftheirclawsandlegswithasturdypairofkitchenshears.Whacktheclawswithameatmalletjusthardenoughtocracktheshells,andusetheshearstocutalongonesideofthejointsattachedtotheclaws.(Crackingtheclawsandcuttingthejointswillmakeiteasiertoremovethemeatfromtheshellafterthelobsteriscooked.)Layeachlobsteronacuttingboardwiththetailstretchedout,andcutinhalflengthwisebyinsertingaheavy,sharpknifewherethetailmeetstheheadsection.Holdingthetailfirmlyasyoucut,bringtheknifedowntothecuttingboardinaswiftmotion,cuttingthebodycleanlyinhalf.Turntheknifeintheotherdirection,andcutthetailinhalfinthesameway.Openupthecutlobster,andremovetheantennaeandeyeswiththeshears,makingsuretoscrapeoutthedigestivesaclocatedinsidetheshellbehindtheeyes.Pulloutthedarkveinthatrunsalongthetail,butleavethetomalley—thepale-greenmassintheheadclosetothetail—intact.(Itaddswonderfulflavortothesauce.)Heat1cupofthevegetableoilinawide,heavyskilletovermediumheat.Dredgethemeatsideofthebodiesinflour,pattinglightlywithfingerssoitwilladheretothelobster.Whentheskilletofoilishot,addtheflouredlobsterquarterscutsidedown;continueaddingasmanyaswillfitcomfortablyintheskillet.Cookuntilthelobstermeatislightlybrowned,about5or6minutes.Removefromthepan,andrepeatwiththeremaininglobsterpieces,ifnecessary,addingmorevegetableoiltothepanasneeded.Whenallthelobsterbodieshavebeenlightlybrowned,addtheclawstothepan,andcook,turningthemwithtongs,untiltheshellsturnbrightredonallsides,about4minutes.(Turnthelobsterpiecescarefully—theyarelikelytosplatter.)Heattheoliveoilinawide,deepbraisingpanlargeenoughtoholdallthelobsterpieces,overmediumheat.Whackthegarliccloveswiththesideofaknife,andaddthem,alongwiththesmalllobsterlegs,totheoil.Cook,shakingthepan,untilthegarlicislightlybrowned,about3minutes.Pourinthecrushedtomatoes;addthepeppersanddriedoregano,andseasonlightlywithsalt.Bringthesaucetoaboil,andadjusttheheattoalivelysimmerfor10minutes.Meanwhile,stirthespaghettiintotheboilingwater.Cook,stirringfrequently,untildone,about6minutes.

Stirinthefreshoregano,andtuckallthelobsterpiecesintothesauceskillet.Cookatalivelysimmerjustuntilthelobstermeatiscookedthroughandjuicy,about5minutes.Ifthesaucebecomestoodenseasitsimmers,ladlealittleofthepasta-cookingwaterintothepan.Keepthesauceandlobsterwarmoververylowheat.Drainthespaghetti,andreturnittotheemptypot.Withaladle,spoontheliquidportionofthelobstersauceoverthepasta,leavingjustenoughsaucebehindinthepantokeepthelobsterpiecesmoist.Bringthesauceandpastatoaboil,stirringgentlytocoatthepastawithsauce.Checktheseasoning,addingsaltifnecessary.Dividethedressedspaghettiamongsixpastabowls.Topeachwithhalfalobsterbody,tail,andoneclaw.Spoonsomeofthesauceremaininginthepanovereachserving,andserveimmediately.

ZITIWITHROASTEDEGGPLANTANDRICOTTACHEESE

ZitiallaNorma

ThisisadeliciousSicilianpastadish,andasIdiscoveredinPalermo,whileresearchingLidia’sItaly,foundonjustabouteveryrestaurantmenuthere.InSicilytheyfrytheeggplantcubesbeforetheyaddthemtothepasta,buthereIinstructyoutobaketheeggplant—itisjustasgood,butwithmuchlessfat.Iamaskedforthisrecipeoverandoveragain—myviewersseemtoloveeggplant,aswellasricotta,andthisdishistheperfectmarriageofthetwo.

SERVES6

2large,firmeggplants(eachabout3inchesindiameterand1¼pounds)2tablespoonscoarsesalt,plusmoreforcookingthepastaandseasoningthesauce


2clovesgarlic,peeledandslicedOne35-ouncecanItalianplumtomatoes(preferablySanMarzano),withtheirliquid,crushedbyhand1teaspoonhotredpepperflakes

1poundziti

1cupfreshlygratedGranaPadanoorParmigiano-Reggianocheese1cupfreshbasilleaves,washed,dried,andshredded½pound(1cup)whole-milkricotta

Trimthestemsfromtheeggplants.Removestripsofpeelabout1inchwidefromtheeggplants,leavingabouthalfthepeelintact.Cuttheeggplantsinto1-inchcubes,andtossinalargebowlwiththe2tablespoonssalt.Dumpintoacolander,andletdrainfor1hour.Rinsetheeggplantundercoolrunningwater,drainthoroughly,andpatdry.Preheattheovento400degreesF.Brushabakingsheetwithhalftheoliveoil.Turntheeggplantcubesontothebakingsheet,tosstocoatwithoil,andspreadthemoutinanevenlayer.Bakeuntiltheeggplantisverytenderandbrowned,about25minutes.Turnandstirtheeggplantcubesgentlyonceortwiceduringbakingsotheycookevenly.Bringalargepotofsaltedwatertoaboiloverhighheatfortheziti.Heattheremainingoliveoilinalargeskilletovermediumheat.Scatterthegarlicovertheoil,andcook,shakingthepan,untilgolden,about3minutes.Pourinthecrushedtomatoes,addthepepperflakes,andseasonlightlywithsalt.Bringtoaboil,thenreducetheheatandsimmerfor10minutes.Stirthezitiintotheboilingwater.Returntoaboil,stirringfrequently.Cookthepasta,semi-covered,stirringoccasionally,untilaldente,about10minutes.Drainthepasta,andreturnittotheemptypotoverlowheat.Pourinabouthalfofthesauce,tossinglightlytocoatthepastawithsauce.Removethepotfromtheheat,stirin½cupofthegratedcheeseandthebasil.Tossinhalfoftheroastedeggplantcubesandtossagain,thenaddthericottabyheapingteaspoonfuls,stirringitgentlyintothepasta;youwantthericottatowarm,butyoudonotwantittoblendwiththesauce

completely.Platethepasta,andspoonthereservedsauceovereachserving.Nowaddequalamountsoftheremainingbakedeggplanttothetopofallthepastaplates.Sprinklewiththeremaininggratedcheese,andserve.

ZITIWITHSAUSAGE,ONIONS,ANDFENNELZiticonSalsicce,Cipolla,eFinocchio

Thismeatysugo,orskilletsauce,cooksataleisurelypace,whileafewingredientsarecreatingarichandcomplexsauce.Inthefirstfewminutes,youwanttocaramelizeeachingredientasitisintroducedtothepan—thisisespeciallyimportantwiththetomatopaste,togiveitagoodtoastingbeforeitisdilutedwiththepastawater.Thesauceneeds6minutesormoreatagoodbubblingsimmerafteraddingthewater,inordertodrawoutandmeldtheflavorsofthemeatandvegetables,aswellastosoftenthepiecesoffreshfennel.

SERVES6

Saltforthepastawater

1poundziti

1poundsweetItaliansausage(withoutfennelseeds)1largefennelbulb(about1pound)⅓cupextra-virginoliveoil2mediumonions,cutintohalf-moonslices(about2cups)½teaspoonsalt½teaspoonhotredpepperflakes½cuptomatopaste⅓cupfinelychoppedfennelfronds1cupfreshlygratedpecorino(orGranaPadanoorParmigiano-Reggiano)cheese

Heatalargepotofsaltedwatertoboilingforthepasta.Dropthezitiintotheboilingwater,thenbringbacktoaboilandcookuntilthezitiarenotquitealdente.Drain,reserving3cupsofthepastawater.Whilethepastaiscooking,removethesausagefromitscasingandbreakthemeatupabitwithyourfingers.Trimthefennelbulb,removinganytoughouterparts,reservingthefronds.Slicethebulbinhalflengthwise,removecore,thensliceeachhalfin¼-inch-thicklengthwiseslices.Separatethesliversoffenneliftheyareattachedatthebottom;cutthelongsliversinhalfsoyouhaveabout3cupsof2-inch-longmatchsticksoffennel.Heattheoliveoilinaskilletsetovermedium-highheat.Addthesausagemeat,andcook,stirringandbreakingitupmorewithawoodenspoon,untilitsizzlesandbeginstobrown,about1½minutes.Pushthesausagetothesidesofthepan,anddroptheonionslicesintotheclearpartofthepan;sauté,stirring,untiltheysizzleandwilt,another2minutesorso,thenstirtheminwiththemeat.Clearanewspace,anddropinthefennel;letitheatupandwiltfor1minuteormore,thenstirtocombine.Sprinkleon¼teaspoonsalt;dropthehotredpepperflakesintoaclearedhotspot,andtoasttheflakesfor30seconds,thenstirtocombine.Clearagood-sizedhotspotinthecenterofthepan,plopinthetomatopaste,andcook,stirringitinthespot,foragoodminuteormore,untilitissizzlingandcaramelizing;thenstiritinwitheverythingelse.Ladlethereservedpastawaterintotheskillet,stirwell,andbringtheliquidtoaboil.Reducetoasimmer,andletcookuntiltheflavorshavedeveloped,thesauceisthickenedbutnottoothick,andthefennelissoftbutnotmushy,6minutesormore.(Addmorewaterifthesaucereducestoorapidly.)Seasontotaste.

Dropthecookedzitiintothesimmeringsauce.Tosseverythingtogether,thensprinkleoveritthechoppedfennelfronds,andcontinuetocookuntilthezitiareperfectlyaldenteandcoatedwithsauce.Removetheskilletfromtheheat,sprinklethegratedcheeseovertheziti,andtossitin.Servethehotpastarightfromtheskilletintowarmpastabowls.

BAKEDSTUFFEDSHELLS

ConchiglieRipienealForno

Thewholefamilylovesthisrecipe,anditisagreatdishtomakewhenyouhavelotsofguestscomingfordinner.Onceyou’vestuffedtheshellsandsettheminthebakingdish,therestiseasy.Thedeliciousaromawillfillthehousewhileyourguestsarehavingdrinks,andtheshellswillarrivebubblinghottothetable.Let’sfaceit,everyonelovesbakedpasta—thechefandtheguests.

SERVES6(ABOUT5STUFFEDSHELLSPERPERSON)1½poundswhole-milkricottaOne35-ouncecanpeeledItalianplumtomatoes(preferablySanMarzano)Saltandfreshlygroundwhitepeppertotaste

1poundfreshmozzarellacheese

1cupfreshlygratedGranaPadanoorParmigiano-Reggianocheese⅓cupchoppedfreshItalianparsley

1largeegg

¼cupextra-virginoliveoil6clovesgarlic,peeledandcrushed½teaspoonhotredpepperflakes10freshbasilleaves

1poundjumbopastashells

Placethericottainacheesecloth-linedsieve,andsetthesieveoverabowl,allowinganyliquidtodripout.Discardtheliquidinthebowl.Passthetomatoesthroughafoodmillfittedwiththefinedisk.(Ifyoudon’thaveafoodmill,placetheminafoodprocessor,usingquickon/offpulsesuntilfinelyground.Don’toverprocess,oryou’llincorporateairintothetomatoesandchangetheirtextureandcolor.)Bringapotofsaltedwatertoaboiloverhighheatforthepasta.Slicehalfthemozzarellathin,andcuttheremaininghalfinto¼-inchcubes.Turnthedrainedricottaintoamixingbowl,andstirinthemozzarellacubes,gratedcheese,andparsley.Seasontotastewithsaltandwhitepepper.Beattheeggwell,andstiritintothericottamixture.Heattheoliveoilinalargeskilletovermediumheat.Scatterthegarlicovertheoil,andcook,shakingthepan,untilgoldenbrown,about2minutes.Carefullypourthetomatoesintotheskillet.Addthecrushedredpepper,andseasonlightlywithsalt.Bringthesaucetoaquickboil,thenadjusttheheattokeepitsimmering.Cookuntilthesauceislightlythickened,about30minutes.Stirthebasilintothesauceafewminutesbeforeitisdone.Preheattheovento425degreesF.Stirtheshellsintotheboilingsaltedwater,andcook,semi-covered,stirringoccasionally,untilslightlyfirmerthanaldente,about7minutes.Fishtheshellsoutofthewaterwithalargeskimmer,andcarefullylowerthemintoabowlofcoldwater.Letcool,thendraincarefully.Linethebottomofa10-by-15-inchbakingdishwithabout¾cupofthetomatosauce.Spoonabout2tablespoonsofthericottamixtureintoeachshell—theshellshouldbefilledtocapacity,butnotoverstuffed.Nestletheshellsnexttooneanotherinthebakingdishasyoufillthem.

Spoontheremainingsauceovertheshells,coatingeachone.Arrangetheslicesofmozzarellainanevenlayerovertheshells.Bakeuntilthemozzarellaisbrownedandbubbling,about25minutes.Remove,andletstand5minutesbeforeserving.

SPAGHETTIINTOMATOAPPLESAUCESpaghettialSugodiPomodoroeMeleTomato-and-applesaucemightsoundoddtoyou,butnotsoinTrentino–AltoAdige,oneofthemost

northerlyregionsofItaly,knownforitsdeliciousapples.WhileresearchingforLidiaCooksfromtheHeartofItaly,IendedupclimbinganappletreeinTrentino–AltoAdigetoharvesttheperfectapplesforthisrecipe.Whatfun,

andIadmitIateafewwhileIwasupthetree.

SERVES6

3cupscannedItalianplumtomatoes(preferablySanMarzano)


2largestalkscelery,cutinto¼-inchdice(about1cup)1mediumonion,chopped(about1cup)1teaspoonkoshersalt,plusmoreforthepastapot1poundtartandfirmapples,suchasGrannySmith

1poundspaghetti

1cupfreshlygratedGranaPadanoorParmigiano-Reggianocheese,plusmoreforpassing

Pourthecannedtomatoesintoafoodprocessororblender,andpuréeuntilsmooth.Pour4tablespoonsoftheoliveoilintoaskillet,setitovermedium

heat,andstrewtheceleryandonioninthepan.Cookandstirthevegetablesforabout5minutes,untiltheywiltandstarttocaramelize.Stirinthepuréedtomatoes,seasonwiththesalt,andheattoa

bubblingsimmer.Cook,stirringoccasionally,for5minutesorso.Asthetomatoesperk,peelandcoretheapples,andremovetheseeds.Shredthem,usingthecoarseholesofashredderorgrater.

Whenthetomatoeshavecookedabout5minutes,stirtheapplesintothesauce.Bringtheskilletbacktoasimmer,andcookthesauce,uncovered,forabout15minutes,stirringnowandthen,untilithasreducedandthickenedandtheappleshredsarecookedandtender.Meanwhile,bringalargepotofsaltedwatertoarollingboil,dropinthespaghetti,andcookituntiljustaldente.Liftthespaghettifromthewater,letdrainforamoment,anddropitintothewarmsauce.(Reheatifnecessary.)Tossthepastawiththesauceforaminuteortwo,untilallthestrandsarecoatedandperfectlyaldente.Turnofftheheat,sprinklethegratedcheeseoverthepasta,andtosswell.Drizzleoverittheremainingoliveoil,tossonceagain,andheapthepastainwarmbowls.Serveimmediately,passingmorecheeseatthetable.

SPAGHETTIANDPESTOTRAPANESEPestoallaTrapanesePestohasbecomeveryfamiliarinAmericanhomesbynow—thatis,pestomadewithfreshbasilleaves,garlic,andpignolinuts.Well,thisoneisdifferent—itisanuncookedsaucefreshlyflavoredwithherbs,almonds,andtomatoes.ItisarecipeIdiscoveredinSicilywhileresearchingforLidia’sItaly,andIhavereceivedcountlesse-mailsaboutthisrecipe,praisingitssimplicityandrichflavor.Iamsureitwillbecome

oneofyourfavorites.

SERVES4TO6

¾pound(about2½cups)cherrytomatoes,veryripeandsweet

12largefreshbasilleaves

1plumpclovegarlic,crushedandpeeled⅓cupwholealmonds,lightlytoasted¼teaspoonhotredpepperflakes,ortotaste½teaspooncoarseseasaltorkoshersalt,ortotaste,plusmoreforthepastapot½cupextra-virginoliveoil

1poundspaghetti

½cupfreshlygratedGranaPadanoorParmigiano-Reggianocheese

Rinsethecherrytomatoesandbasilleaves,andpatthemdry.Dropthetomatoesintoablenderjarorfood-processorbowl,followedbythebasilleaves,garlicclove,thealmonds,hotredpepperflakes,and½teaspoonsalt.Blendforaminuteormoretoafinepurée;scrapedownthebowl,andblendagainifanylargebitsorpieceshavesurvived.Withthemachinestillrunning,pourintheoliveoilinasteadystream,emulsifyingthepuréeintoathickpesto.Taste,andadjustseasoning.(Ifyou’regoingtodressthepastawithinacoupleofhours,leavethepesto

atroomtemperature.Refrigerateitforlongerstorage,upto2days,butletitreturntoroomtemperaturebeforecookingthepasta.)Tocookthespaghetti,heat6quartsofwater,with1tablespoonsalt,totheboilinalargepot.Slipinthespaghetti,andcookuntilaldente.Scrapeallthepestointoabigwarmbowl.Liftthecookedspaghettiup,drainbriefly,anddropdirectlyintothepesto.Tossquicklytocoatthespaghetti,sprinklethecheeseallover,andtossagain.Serveimmediatelyinwarmbowls.

STRAWANDHAY

PagliaeFieno

ThiscolorfulpastadishhasbeenonrestaurantmenusasfarbackasIcanremember.Patronslovethetwo-tonepasta,crispypeas,prosciuttobits,andcreamysauce.Yourfamilyandguestswillaskforsecondhelpingseverytime.But,astraditionalasthisdishis,feelfreetochangethevegetablesaccordingtoseasons;forexample,Iloveaddingfavabeansinthespring,corninthesummer,mushroomsinthefall,andcookedchestnutsinthewinter.

SERVES6

Saltforthepastapot4scallions


1cupshelledfreshpeas,blanched,orfrozenbabypeas,defrosted6to8slicesimportedprosciutto,cutcrosswiseinto½-inch-thickribbons⅔cupchickenstockorcannedlow-sodiumchickenbroth½cupheavy

cream1poundfreshpagliaefienofettuccine,or½pounddryeggfettucineand½pounddryspinachfettuccine¾cupfreshlygratedGranaPadanoorParmigiano-Reggianocheese

Bringalargepotofsaltedwatertoaboiloverhighheat.Trimtheroots,tips,andanyyelloworwiltedleavesfromthescallions.Cuttheminhalflengthwise,thencrosswiseinto3-inchlengths.Cutthescallionpieceslengthwiseintothinstrips.Heattheoilinalarge,heavyskilletovermediumheat.Addthescallions,andcookuntilwilted,1to2minutes.Scatterinthepeasandcookuntiljusttender,about3minutes.Addtheprosciutto,andtossuntilitchangescolor,1to2minutes.Pourinthechickenstock,andbringtheliquidtoaboil.Reducethesaucetoasimmer,andcookuntiltheliquidisreducedbyhalf.Addtheheavycream,andcontinuetosimmeruntiltheliquidislightlythickened,2to3minutes.Stirthepastaintothesaltedboilingwater.Returntoaboil,andcookthepastauntilaldente.Fishthepastaoutoftheboilingwaterwithalargewireskimmer,andadditdirectlytothesauceintheskillet,stirringtocoatthepastawithsauce.Cookoverhighheatuntiltheliquidisreducedenoughtoformacreamysauce.Removefromtheheat,tossinthegratedcheese,andserveimmediatelyinwarmbowls.

SPAGHETTIWITHCALAMARI,SCALLOPS,ANDSHRIMP

SpaghettidiTornola

JustabouteveryregionthatistouchingtheseainItaly(fifteenoutoftwentyregions!)hasaversionofaseafoodsaucetodressaquickplateofpasta.ThisrecipeisfromCalabria,whichhasquiteabitofcoastforfishing,andiswherethebestspicypastainItalycanbefound.IvisitedCalabriaduringmytravelsforLidiaCooksfromtheHeartofItaly,andwassohappytobringthisdishbackwithmeasasouvenir.

SERVES6

1teaspoonkoshersalt,plusmoreforthepastapot8ouncesmediumcalamari,cleaned8ouncesdryseascallops

1poundlargeshrimp

¼cupextra-virginoliveoil,plus2tablespoonsforfinishingthepasta6plumpclovesgarlic,peeledandsliced4cupscherrytomatoes,halved;or2cupscannedItalianplumtomatoes(preferablySanMarzano),crushedbyhandorwithafoodmill¼teaspoonhotredpepperflakes,ortotaste

1poundspaghetti

¼cupchoppedfreshbasilleaves


Fillalargepotwithsaltedwater(atleast6quartswater,with1tablespoonsalt),andheattoaboil.Topreparetheseafood:Cutthecalamaribodies,includingthetentacles,into½-inchsegments.Pulloffthesidemuscle,or“foot,”fromthescallops,ifpresent,anddiscard.Removetheshells,tails,anddigestiveveinsfromtheshrimp;rinseandpatdry.Heattheoliveoilinaskilletsetovermedium-highheat.Scatterintheslicedgarlic,andcook,stirringoccasionally,untilitbeginstosizzleandcolor,about1to2minutes.Dumpinthecherrytomatoes,sprinkleontheteaspoonsaltandthehotredpepperflakes,andcookforabout5minutes,stirringandtossingthetomatoes,untiltheyaresoftenedandsizzlingintheirjuicesbutstillintact.Nowstartcookingthepastafirstandtheseafoodrightafter,sotheyarereadyatthesametime.Dropthespaghettiintotheboilingwater,stir,andreturnthewatertoaboil.Asitcooks,scatterthecalamariringsandcuttentaclesinthepanwiththetomatoes,andgetthemsizzlingovermedium-highheat.Letthepiecescookforaminuteortwo,thentossinthescallops,andspreadthemouttoheatandstartsizzlingquickly.Afterthey’vecookedforacoupleofminutes,tossintheshrimp,ladleinacupofboilingpastawater,stirtheseafoodandsaucetogether,bringtoasteadysimmer,andcookjustuntiltheshrimpturnpinkandbegintocurl,about3minutes.Assoonasthespaghettiisbarelyaldente,liftitfromthepot,drain

briefly,anddropintotheskillet.Tossthepastaandthesimmeringsaucetogetherforaminuteortwo,untilthespaghettiisnicelycoatedwithsauceandperfectlyaldente,andtheseafoodisdistributedthroughoutthepasta.Turnofftheheat,sprinkleonthebasilandparsley,anddrizzleonanother2tablespoonsoliveoil.Tosswell,heapthespaghettiintowarmbowls,givingeachportionplentyofseafood,andserveimmediately.

BASICPOTATOGNOCCHIGnocchidiPatateKidslovegnocchi.Adultslovegnocchi.Evenourhousehold

petseatgnocchi(withoutthecheese,ofcourse).Thereissomethingaboutthewarmingfeelingofsatisfactionaftereatingaplateofdeliciousgnocchithatmakesthislittledumplingrankhighoneveryone’slist.PotatognocchiissomethingImadeoftenasachild,helpingGrandmaand

MompreparewhatwasusuallySundaydinner.Peopleshyawayfrommakinggnocchi,buttheyarerathersimple

tomake.Therearetwothingstoremember:Onceyouhavericedthepotatoes,spreadthemout,andletthemcoolcompletely.Donotoverkneadthedough,but,rather,workitjustenoughtoincorporatetheingredientstogether.

SERVES6

6largeIdahoorrussetpotatoes

2tablespoonsplus1teaspoonsalt

Dashoffreshlygroundwhitepepper2eggs,beatenAbout4cupsunbleachedall-purposeflourGratedGranaPadanoorParmigiano-Reggianocheeseforserving(optional)

Boilthepotatoesintheirskinsforabout40minutes,untileasilypiercedwithaskewer.Whencoolenoughtohandle,peelandricethepotatoes,andsetthemasidetocoolcompletely,spreadingthemlooselytoexposeasmuchsurfaceaspossibletoair.Bring6quartsofwaterand2tablespoonsofthesalttoaboilina

largepot.Onacool,preferablymarbleworksurface,gatherthecold

potatoesintoamound,formingawellinthecenter.Stirtheremainingteaspoonsaltandthewhitepepperintothebeateneggs,andpourthemixtureintothewell.Workthepotatoesandeggstogetherwithbothhands,graduallyadding3cupsoftheflourandscrapingthedoughupfromtheworksurfacewithaknifeasoftenasnecessary.(Incorporationoftheingredientsshouldtakenolongerthan10minutes—thelongeryouworkit,themoreflouritwillrequireandtheheavieritwillbecome.)Dustthedough,yourhands,andtheworksurfacelightlywithflourandcutthedoughintosixequalparts.(Continuetodustaslongasthedoughfeelssticky.)Usingbothhands,rolleachpieceofdoughintoarope½-inchthick,thenslicetheropesat½-inchintervals.Indenteachdumplingwithathumb,orusethetinesofaforktoproducearibbedeffect.(Thishelpsthesaucesticktothegnocchi.)Dropthegnocchiintoboilingwaterafewatatime,stirringgentlyandcontinuouslywithawoodenspoon,andcookfor2to3minutes,untiltheyfloatuptothesurface.Removethegnocchifromthewaterwithaslottedspoonorskimmer,transferthemtoawarmplatter,andaddalittlesauceofyourchoice.Addfreshlygroundwhitepeppertotasteand,ifappropriate,gratedcheese,andserveimmediately.Gnocchicanbedeliciouswithjustbutterandcheese,orsage-and-buttersauce,orplainTomatoSauce.Ortrythenextrecipe.

GNOCCHIWITHGORGONZOLAANDPEASGnocchiconPisellieGorgonzolaThereissomethingveryspecialaboutthe

marriageofcreamyGorgonzolaandgnocchi,themellownessandcomfortingfeelofthegnocchiwiththepungentGorgonzolameltedon

them.Abeautifulharmonyofflavors.

SERVES6

Saltforthegnocchipot


½cupheavycream1cupchickenstock,vegetablestock,orpasta-cookingwaterOne10-ounceboxfrozenpeas,thawed6ouncesGorgonzola,crumbled1batchBasicPotatoGnocchi

¼cupgratedGranaPadanoorParmigiano-Reggianocheese

Bringapotofsaltedwatertoaboiltocookthegnocchi.Forthesauce,heatalargeskilletovermedium-highheat.Meltthe

butter,thenaddthecreamandstock.Oncethemixtureissimmering,addthepeas.Bringtoarapidbubble,andcookuntilreducedtoasauce,about5minutes.StirintheGorgonzolauntilitdissolvesinthesauce.Keepthesaucewarmwhileyoucookthegnocchi.Meanwhile,shakeexcessflourfromthegnocchiandaddtotheboiling

water(don’tcrowdthegnocchi;cookinbatchesifnecessary).Oncethegnocchirisetothesurface,simmeruntilcookedthrough,about2minutes.Removethegnocchidirectlytothesaucewithaspider.Tossthegnocchiinthesauceforaminute(addalittlepastawaterifitseemstootight),justtocoatthegnocchiwiththesauce,thenremovefromtheheat.Sprinklewiththegratedcheese,toss,andserve.

BASICRISOTTORisottoMakingarisottowasconsideredchallengingafewdecadesback.

NowAmericahasmasteredthetechniqueandistrulyenjoyingtheversatilityofrisotto,whichcanbeservedalongsideseasonalvegetables,beneathapieceofperfectlycookedfishorpoultry,orasthemaincourse.

Thisrecipemakesasimplebutdeliciousrisottoallaparmigiana,butyoucanflavoritbyaddingyourfavoritevegetables,shrimp,ortomatoormeatsaucethatyoumighthaveonhand,orusetherecipesthatfollow.Ontheotherhand,ifyouwanttodosomethingmoreelaborate,Irecommendrisottoallamilanese,madewithsaffronandbeefmarrow,whichyoucanfindinLidiaCooksfromtheHeartofItaly.

SERVES6

5to7cupsoftastymeatorvegetablestock


2cups(about10ounces)fairlyfinelychoppedonion1cupchoppedshallots

1teaspoonsalt

2cupsshort-grainItalianrice,eitherArborioorCarnaroli1cupwhitewine

2tablespoonsbutter

1½cupsfreshlygratedGranaPadanoorParmigiano-Reggianocheese,plusmoreforthetableFreshlygroundblackpeppertotaste

Pourthestockintoalargepot,andbringitalmosttoaboil.Cover,andkeepithotoververylowheat,onaburnerclosetotherisottopan.Puttheoil,onions,shallots,andhalfofthesaltinalargepan,andsetovermediumheat.Cooktheonionsslowly,stirringfrequentlywithawoodenspoon,astheysweat,soften,andgraduallytakeonagoldencolor,8to10minutes.Ladle½cupofthehotstockintotheonions,stirwell,andcontinuetocookoverlowtomediumheatforanother5to10minutes,bywhichtimetheonionsshouldbecompletelygoldenandglisteningandthestockwillhaveevaporated.Whentheonionsarecompletelydevoidofstock,addthericeallatonce,raisetheheattomedium,andstirconstantly.Cookforabout3minutes,untilthericegrainshavebeentoasted,butdonotallowthemtoscorchorcolor.Pourinthewineallatonce,andcookwiththericefor2to3minutesovermediumheat.Stirconstantlyallaroundthepanuntiltheliquidhasbeenabsorbed.Havethehotstockcloseby,andbereadytoadditwithaladleormeasuringcup.Forthefirstaddition,ladlein1½to2cupsoftheveryhotstock,enoughtobarelycovertherice;stiritincontinuously,allaroundthepan.Addremaining½teaspoonofsalt,andstirwell.Lowertheheat,ifnecessary,tomaintainaverygentleperking.Aftertheadditionofatleast5cupsofstock,youcantasteandgaugethedegreeofdonenessofthericekernelsandthefluidityofthecreamysuspension.Wheneveryoufindthericegrainspleasantlyaldenteandtherisottocreamy,youcanchoosetostopcooking.Oryoumayincorporatemorestock,uptoabout7cupstotal,ifyouwantasofter,looserrisotto.Whenyouaresatisfied,turnofftheheat.Stirfrequentlyatfirst,andthenconstantlyastherisottothickens.Makesurethespoonisreachingintoallthecornersofthepan,soeverythingisconstantlybeingstirred.Whenallthestockhasbeenabsorbed,therisottoishardertostir(thebubblingsoundsthicker,too),andthepanbottomisvisible,ladleinanothercupofwater.(Ifyouareflavoringyourrisottowithasauce,stiritinatthispoint,beforethesecondadditionofstock.)Cook,alwaysstirring,andaddanother2cups

ofstockwhentherisottoisreadyforit,asjustdescribed—anywherefrom3to6minutesbetweenadditions.Keeptrackofhowmuchliquidyouhaveadded.Removefromheat,andstirinthebutter.Stiringratedcheeseandfreshlygroundpeppertotaste,whiskingwithawoodenspoon.Whenit’sniceandcreamy,servetherisottoimmediatelyinheatedbowls,withmoregratedcheeseatthetable.

CREAMYRICEWITH“PIGLET”MUSHROOMSRisottoconPorciniPorciniaretheidealmushroomsforthisrisotto,butanymushroomormixtureofmushroomswillyieldadeliciousrisotto.PorcoisanItalianwordfor“pig,”andporcinihavethechubby,oblongshapeofthebodyofapig—hencethe“piglet”mushroom.TypicallyItalian,thisisoneofthemostcommonrisottodishesservedintheUnitedStates.Formore

detailsonrisotto,seethebasicrisottorecipe.

SERVES4

5tablespoonsoliveoil1cupmincedonion

2tablespoonsmincedshallots

12ouncesfreshporcinimushrooms,sliced

2cupsArboriorice

½cupdrywhitewine6½cupshotchickenorvegetablestock½teaspoonsalt

2tablespoonsbutter,cutintobits½cupfreshlygratedGranaPadanoorParmigiano-ReggianocheeseFreshlygroundblackpeppertotaste

Heattheoliveoilinamediumcasserole,andsautétheonionandshallotsuntilgolden.Addthemushrooms,andsautéuntiltender,about5minutes.Addtherice,andstirtocoatitwithoil.Pourinthewine,stirwell,andadd½cupofthehotstockandthesalt.Cook,stirringconstantly,untilalltheliquidhasbeenabsorbed.Continuetoaddhotstockinsmallbatches(justenoughtocompletelymoistentherice),stirringconstantlytohelptheliquidabsorb,untilthericemixtureiscreamyandaldente.Removefromtheheat,whipinthebutterandcheese,seasonwith

peppertotaste,andserveimmediately.

RISOTTOWITHVEGETABLES

RisottoconVerdure

Whenmakingthisrisotto,chooseanyvegetablethatisinseason.Itisawonderfulwayofcreatingexcitingnewcombinationsofflavorsthatwillbeyourstopasson.Itcanbecomeaspringpearisotto,anautumnsquashrisotto,awinterbeetrisotto,orasummercornrisotto.Thisrisottoisalsoawonderfulwaytouseleftovervegetablesyoumighthaveintherefrigeratororfreezer.

SERVES6

½poundbroccoli(about1medium-sizestalk)1cupblanchedfavabeansorfrozenbabylimabeans½teaspoonsalt,plusmoreasneeded


½cupmincedscallions,greensincluded(about6)

1tablespoonmincedshallot

2½cupsArborioorCarnarolirice½cupdrywhitewine6½cupshotvegetablestockorchickenbroth2tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,cutintobits½cupfreshlygratedGranaPadano,Parmigiano-Reggiano,orPecorinoRomanocheeseFreshlygroundblackpeppertotaste

Trimthebroccolifloretsfromthestems,keepingthemsmallenoughtofitonaspoon.(Youshouldhaveabout1¼cups.)Peelthestemswithasmallknifeorvegetablepeeler,thencuttheminto2-inchpieces.Steamthefloretsjustuntilbrightgreen,about1minute.Steamthestemsuntilverytender,about4minutes.Reservethesteamingliquid.Transferthestemstoablenderorfoodprocessor,andprocessuntilsmooth.Youwillprobablyhavetoaddsomeofthesteamingliquidtomakeasmoothmixture.Scrapeoutthepuréeintoasmallbowl,andsetthefloretsandpuréeaside.Ifusingthebabylimabeans,cooktheminasmallsaucepanofboilingsaltedwaterfor2minutes.Drainthemthoroughlyandsetaside.Heattheoliveoilinaheavycasseroleorpotovermediumheat.Addthescallionsandshallotandsautéuntiltranslucent,stirringoften,about4minutes.Addtherice,andstirtocoatwiththeoil.Toastthericeuntiltheedgesbecometranslucent,1to2minutes.Pourinthewine,andstirwelluntilevaporated.Add½cupofthehotstockandthe½teaspoonsalt.Cook,stirringconstantly,untilallthestockhasbeenabsorbed.Continuetoaddhotstockinsmallbatches—justenoughtocompletelymoistentherice—andcookuntileachsuccessivebatchhasbeenabsorbed.Aftertherisottohascookedfor12minutes,stirinthebroccolipuréeandthefavasorlimas.About3minutesafterthat,stirinthebroccoliflorets.Stirconstantly,andadjustthelevelofheatsothericeissimmeringverygentlywhileaddingthestock,untilthericemixtureiscreamybutaldente.Thiswilltakeabout18minutesfromthefirstadditionofstock.Removethecasserolefromtheheat.Whipinthebutterfirst,untilmelted,thenthegratedcheese.Adjusttheseasoningwithsalt,ifnecessary,andpepper.Serveimmediately,ladledintowarmshallow

bowls.

RICEWITHFRESHSAGERisoeSalviaWhenyouwanttoenjoyarisotto-stylericebutdon’thavethetimeforlotsofprepandstirring,trythissimplerecipe.Itisgreatasamain

courseoraflavorfulsidedishforgrilledchickenandbraisedmeats.

SERVES6ORMOREASAFIRSTCOURSEORSIDEDISH

4tablespoonsbutter,plus2tablespoonsbuttercutintopiecesforfinishing

12largefreshsageleaves

5cupshotwaterorlightstock,plusmoreifneeded2½teaspoonskoshersalt2cupsItalianshort-grainrice,suchasArborioorCarnaroli1bunchscallions,finelychopped(about1cup),forfinishing½cupfreshlygratedGranaPadanoorParmigiano-Reggianocheese,plusmoreforpassing

Meltthe4tablespoonsbutterinasaucepanovermediumheat.Whenthebutterisfoaming,scatterthesageleavesinthepanandheatforaminuteorso,justuntiltheyaresizzling.Pourin5cupsofhotwaterorstock,andstirinthesalt.Raisetheheat,andbringtheliquidtotheboil;thenstirinthericeandbringbacktotheboil.Coverthepan,andlowertheheatsothewaterisbubblinggently.

Cookfor13or14minutes,thencheckthericeandaddmoreliquidifneeded.Atthispoint,too,stirinthescallions,tocookforthelastminuteortwo,untilthericeiscreamyandaldente.Whenthericeisfullycooked,turnofftheheat,dropinthebutter

pieces,andstirvigorouslyuntiltheyhavecompletelymelted.Stirinthe½cupofgratedcheese,spoontherisointowarmpastabowls,andserveimmediately,passingadditionalgratedcheeseatthetable.

TRADITIONALRICEANDCHICKENRisoallaPitoccaEveryculturehasitsrenditionofchickenandrice,andthisrecipehasbecomeoneofmymostrequesteddishes;peoplelovericeandpeoplelovechicken.Risottoisoneverybody’sradarthesedays,andthoughit’sdelicious,itdoesrequireconstantattention.Hereisadishthatrivalsrisottoforflavorbutismuchsimplertomake.Mygrandmotherusedto

makeitoftenforus,andwealllovedit.

SERVES4TO6

1½poundsboneless,skinlesschickenthighs1cuponioncutinto1-inchchunks1cupcarrotcutinto1-inchchunks1cupcelerycutinto1-inchchunks2plumpclovesgarlic,peeled½cupextra-virginoliveoil1tablespoonkoshersalt1freshbayleaf

1cupdrywhitewine

5cupshotchickenorturkeystock,plusmoreifneeded2cupsItalianshort-grainrice,suchasArborioorCarnaroli2tablespoonsbutter,cutintopieces


½cupgratedGranaPadanoorParmigiano-Reggianocheese,plusmoreforpassing

Trimanyexcessfatfromthechickenthighs,andcutthethighsinto1-inchchunks.Useafoodprocessortomincetheonion,carrot,celery,andgarlicintoafine-texturedpestata.Pourtheoliveoilintoasaucepan,andsetovermedium-highheat.Stir

inthepestata,andseasonwith1teaspoonofthesalt.Cookforabout5minutes,stirringfrequently,untilthepestatahasdried.Tossinthe

chickenpiecesandthebayleaf,andsprinklewithremainingsalt.Tumblethechickeninthepanuntilbrownedandcaramelizedallover,about4minutes.Raisetheheat,pourinthewhitewine,andcook,stirringandscrapingupthebrownedbitsinthepan,untilthewinehasalmostcompletelyevaporated.Pourinthehotstock,stirring,andaddtherice.Bringtoaboiloverhighheat,thencoverandreducetheheattokeeptherisobubblinggently.Cookforabout14minutes,oruntilboththericeandthechickenchunksarefullycookedandtheconsistencyiscreamy.Turnofftheheat,dropinthebutterpieces,andstirvigorouslyuntilthoroughlyamalgamated;thenstirintheparsleyand½cupofgratedcheese.Spoontherisointowarmpastabowls,andserveimmediately,passingadditionalgratedcheeseatthetable.

BASICPOLENTAPolentaCornisafoodfromtheNewWorld—itonlycametoItalyafterthediscoveryoftheAmericas.ButyoucouldnevertellthepeoplefromtheregionofFriuli–VeneziaGiulia,theregionIhailfrom,

thatpolentaisnotFriulian.Infact,theFriulaniarecalledpolentoni,“polentaeaters,”muchastheTuscansarecalledmangiafagioli,“beaneaters.”Cornisaplant

thatyieldsalotoffruitinrelationtothelandandattentionitneeds,andsincehungerwasalwaysprevalent

inthatareaofItaly,cornbecameastapletofeedthepeopleandtheanimals.Soonthereweredailycauldronsofpolentacookinginthefogolars,theopenhearthsof

Friuli.

SERVES8

8cupswater,orasneeded


1tablespooncoarsesalt,orasneeded


1½cupscoarseyellowcornmeal

Inasmallsaucepan,bring4cupsofwatertoasimmer;keepthis“backup”waterhot,covered,overmedium-lowheat.Bringthe

remainingwater,thebayleaves,and1tablespoonsalttoaboilina3-to-4-quartcast-ironsaucepan,overmedium-highheat.Whenboiling,addtheoliveoil.Scoopupasmallhandfulofthecornmeal,and,whilestirringconstantlywithawoodenspoonorflat-endedstirrer,letitsiftslowlythroughyourfingersintotheseasonedboilingwater.Letthecornmealfallapioggia—likerain—intothewater.Sifttheremainingcornmealintothewaterasmallhandfulatatime,stirringconstantly,payingspecialattentiontostirringthecornersofthepot.Itshouldtakeabout5minutestoaddallthecornmeal.Whenallthecornmealhasbeenadded,themixtureshouldbesmoothandthickandbeginto“perk,”withlargebubblesrisingtothesurface.Reducethelevelofheattomedium-low,andcontinuestirringuntilthemixturebecomestoothicktostireasily,about4minutes.Addenoughofthe“backup”water—about1cup—torestorethemixturetoasmoothstirringconsistency.Stiruntilthemixtureisagaintoothicktostireasily.Continueaddingwaterandstirringlikethisuntilthecornmealistender,about20minutesafterthecornmealwasadded.Whenthecornmealistender,stirthepolentawithoutaddingwateruntilitisshinyandbeginstogatheraroundthespoonasyoustirit,5to10minutes.(Thepolentashouldbethickenoughtostandaspoonin.)Thepolentaisreadytoserveatthispoint,oryoucanchoosetocookitanextrafewminutestointensifytheflavor.Tocontinuecooking,reducethelevelofheattolow,andstirthepolentaconstantlyfor5to10minutes.Youmayneedtoaddasmallamountofwaterduringthisextracookingifthepolentabeginstostickorbecometoothick.Pourthepolentaawayfromyouintoaceramicbowl.Letitstand10minutesbeforeserving.Toservepolenta,scoopitontoplateswithalargespoon,dippingthespooninwaterbeforeeachscoop.(Anice-creamscoopcanbeusedinthesamefashion;itmakesniceroundmoundsofpolenta.)PolentaattheTableFORIMMEDIATESERVING:Youmayalsoservethepolentahotdirectlyfromaboardinthetraditionalway:Pourthehotpolentaintothecenterofawoodencuttingboard,keepingthepolentainalong,highmound.Letthepolentastandafewminutes,untilitisfirmenoughtocut.Cutthepolentawithastringstretchedtautbetweenyourindexfingers,orwithathinknife.Gentlytransfertheslicestoplates.

TOCHILLTHEPOLENTAFORBAKING,GRILLING,ORPAN-FRYING:Youcanbegintoseethetrueversatilityofpolentawhenithasbeenchilleduntilfirmandcutintoshapesforbaking,grilling,orpan-frying.Toservepolentathisway,pourthehotpolenta—eitherfreshlymadeforthispurpose,orremainingfromabatchmadetobeeatenhot—intoabakingpanormoldtoathicknessofabout½inch.(OnewholerecipeofBasicPolentamakesenoughtofilltwo9-by-13-inchbakingdishestoadepthofabout½inch.)Coverwithplasticwrapapplieddirectlytothesurface,andrefrigerateuntilthoroughlychilledandveryfirm,4to5hours.Invertthepolentaontoacuttingboardandcutitintoanydesiredshapeforbaking,grilling,orfrying.TOBAKE:Placethepolentapiecesonalightlyoiledbakingsheetandplaceinapreheated375-degree-Fovenuntillightlybrownedandcrispy,about20minutes.Turnthepolentaonceabouthalfwaythroughthecooking.TOGRILL:Lightlybrushbothsidesofthepolentapieceswitholiveoil.Placeonahotgrill,andcook,turningonce,untilwellmarkedandheatedthrough,about2minutesperside.TOPAN-FRY:Heatasmallamountofoliveoilinanonstickskilletovermedium-highheat.Addthepolentaslices,andcook,turningonce,untilgoldenbrownandcrispyonbothsides,8to10minutes.

BAKEDPOLENTALAYEREDWITHMUSHROOMRAGÙ

PolentaPasticciataaiFunghi

Polentapasticciataisalayeredbakeddish,justlikelasagna,butmadewithwarm,freshpolentainsteadofpasta.And,likelasagna,itismarvelouslyversatile:youcanfillthelayersofpolentawithallmannerofgoodthings—cheeses,vegetables,meats,orsauces,oracombinationofeverything.Peopleabsolutelyloveitforthecomplexityofflavor,andbecauseitcanbepreparedinadvance.Itisagreatfamilypreparation,andIhavearenditionofitinLidia’sFamilyTable;itcanbemadeaheadoftime,justlikelasagna.

SERVES12,WITHLEFTOVERSTHATCANEASILYBEFROZEN

1batch(about10cups)BasicPolenta(precedingrecipe),freshlymadeandhot,withorwithoutfreshlygratedGranaPadanoorParmigiano-Reggianocheese(itwillbericherifyouincludeit,butjustasgoodwithoutit)4to6cupsMushroomRagù,MarinaraSauce,orTomato

Sauce.2tablespoonssoftbutterforthebakingdish,ormoreifneeded1to2cupsshreddedMuensterordry-packedmozzarella,ItalianFontina,cheddar,orasoftcheeseofyourliking½to1cupgratedGranaPadanoorParmigiano-Reggianocheese

Preheattheovento400degreesF,andsetarackinthecenter.Makeyourpolentainalargebowl,thenputplasticwrapoverthetop,tokeepitwarmandtopreventaskinfromformingontop.Besuretoassemblethepasticciatawithin½hour,whilethepolentaisstillwarmandsoftwithnolumps.Ifnecessary,heatthefillingsaucetoquitewarm.Ifitistoodenseforspreading,thinitwithsomewater.Butterthebottomandsidesofa9-by-13-inchbakingdishora12-inchcast-ironskilletthoroughly.Usemorebutteronthebottom,inparticular,ifyouwanttounmoldthepasticciataontoaplatter.Pourinhalfthepolenta(approximately5cups),andspreaditevenlyinthebottomofthepan.Scatter⅓cupormoreshreddedMuensterorothersoftcheesealloverthetop,thensprinkleon2to4tablespoonsofgratedGranaPadanoorParmigiano-Reggiano.Pourorladle2cupsofthewarmsauceoverthepolentaandcheese,andspreaditallover—use3cupssauceifyouwantathickerlayer.Pouronabitmorethanhalfoftheremainingpolenta(about3cups)andspreadit,andtopwithshreddedsoftcheeseandgratedhardcheeseintheamountsyoulike.Pourintheremainingsauce,andspreaditevenly,reservingacup,ifyouhaveenoughandplantounmoldthepasticciata.Forthetoplayer,spreadalltherestofthepolenta,andanother¼cupsauceontopofthat.SprinkleonmoreshreddedsoftcheeseandgratedGranaPadanoorParmigiano-Reggiano.Ifyou’remakingathinpasticciatainabigpan,orwantittohaveabeautifuldeep-goldencrustorgratinato,useenoughcheesetoreallycoverthetop.Donotcompressthecheeses,though.(Seenotebelow.)Setthepanonacookiesheet,andbakefor45minutestoanhour,ormore,untilthetopisdeeplycoloredandcrusted,evenbrownedabitontheedges.Letthepasticciatacoolfor

afewminutesbeforeserving.Ifservingportionsfromthebakingpan,cutintosquares(likelasagna),orwedgesifyou’veusedaroundskilletorpan,andliftthemoutwithaspatula.Ifunmoldingthepasticciata:Letitcoolforatleast10minutes.Runaknifearoundthesidesofthepan,cuttingthroughanycruststickingtotherimorsides.Layabigboardontopofthebakingpanorskillet,holdthetwotogether(withtheprotectionofclothsandthehelpofotherhandsifnecessary),andflipthemover.Rapontheupturnedpanbottom—orbangonitallover—toloosenthebottom.Lifttheboard,andgivethepanagoodshake.Thepasticciatawilleventuallydropout.Serveontheboard,orreflipitontoaservingplatter,andservewithacupormoreofwarmsauceheapedonthetoporservedontheside.

NOTEIfyouwanttopreparethepasticciataandbakelaterthesameorthenextday,donotsprinklethecheeseontop.Coverit,wrapitwell,andrefrigerate.Beforebaking,sprinkleonthecheesesandmakeatentoffoiloverthebakingdish,withouttouchingthecheese.Pokeafewsmallholesinthefoil,toventsteam.Setthepanonasheet,andbakefor½hourat400degreesF;thenremovethefoilandcontinuetobakeuntildeeplycoloredandcrusted.

SAUCES

ITALIANAMERICANMEATSAUCESugodiCarneThissaucehastobeafavoriteineveryItalianAmerican

home.Iffornothingelse,alltheloveandtimethatgoesintomakingitputsithighuponthecook’slistoffavorites.ItevokesmemoriesoftheSundaytable,allthefamilygatheredaround,andthecelebrationsthatbubbledupasyouatetogether.OneofmybestSundaymemoriesisthearomaoftheSundaysaucepermeatingthehouseearlyinthemorning,whichleadsto

thememoryoflaughteratthetable.IknowmanyofyousharethedelightfulmemoryofSundaysaucewithme.Thesaucecanbepreparedentirelyinadvanceandrefrigeratedforupto5days,orfrozenforupto3

months,soanyextrasaucewillkeepwell.

MAKESABOUT8CUPS,ENOUGHTODRESSABOUT2POUNDSOFPASTA

Two35-ouncecansItalianplumtomatoes(preferablySanMarzano)¼cupextra-virginoliveoil2mediumyellowonions,diced(about2cups)6to8clovesgarlic,peeledandfinelychopped5or6meatyporkneckbones(about¾pound—askyourbutchertosetthemasideforyou)1poundgroundbeef

1poundgroundpork

½teaspoonkoshersalt4freshbayleaves,or5dried1½teaspoonsdriedoregano,preferablytheSicilianorGreektypedriedonthebranch,crumbled¾cupdrywhitewine⅓cuptomatopaste

3to4cupshotwater

Passthetomatoesthroughafoodmillfittedwiththefineblade.Setaside.Heattheoliveoilinaheavypotovermediumheat.Addtheonions,

andcook,stirringoccasionally,untilgolden,about8minutes.Makeroominthecenterofthepottoaddthegarlic,andcookuntilitislightlybrowned.Addtheporkbones,andcook,turning,untiltheyarelightlybrownedonallsides,about5minutes.Addthegroundbeefandpork,andseasonlightlywithsalt.Cook,stirringtobreakupthemeat,untiltheliquiditgivesoffisboiledaway,about10minutes.Continuecookinguntilthemeatisbrowned,about5minutes.Addthebayleavesandoregano,thenpourinthewine.Bringtoaboil,andcook,scrapingupthebrownbitsthatclingtothepot,untilthewineiscompletelyevaporated.Pourthetomatoesintothepot,thenstirinthetomatopasteuntilitisdissolved.Seasonlightlywithsalt.Bringtoaboil,adjusttheheattomaintainalivelysimmer,andcook,uncovered,stirringoften,2to3hours.Addthehotwater,about½cupatatime,tomaintainthelevelofliquidwhilethesaucecooks.Skimoffanyfatfloatingontop,removeporkbones,andadjusttheseasoning.Serveoverpasta.

MEATSAUCEBOLOGNESESugoallaBologneseOnceyouhavehadatrulygoodBolognesesauce,itwillbecomeoneofyourgo-torecipes.Bologneseisaveryversatilesauce:itcan

dressallshapesandsizesofpasta,whetherfreshtagliatelle,driedspaghetti,orbakedrigatoni.Thisrecipemakesenoughsaucetofeedahungrycrowd,butitalsofreezeswellifyouwanttoenjoyitinsmaller

quantities.

MAKES6CUPS,ENOUGHFORABOUT1½POUNDSDRIEDPASTA


1mediumyellowonion,minced(about1cup)1mediumcarrot,peeledandfinelyshredded(about½cup)½cupmincedcelerywithleavesSalt

1poundgroundbeef

1poundgroundpork

½cupdryredwine

1tablespoontomatopaste

3cupscannedItalianplumtomatoes(preferablySanMarzano),crushed3freshbayleaves,or4driedFreshlygroundblackpepper4cupshotwater,orasneeded

Heattheoliveoilinawide3-to-4-quartpanorDutchovenovermediumheat.Stirintheonion,carrot,andcelery,seasonthemlightlywithsalt,andcook,stirring,untiltheonionistranslucent.Crumbleinthegroundbeefandpork,andcontinuecooking,stirringtobreakupthemeat,until

alltheliquidthemeathasgivenoffhasevaporatedandthemeatislightlybrowned,about10minutes.Pourinthewine,andcook,scrapingthebottomofthepan,untilthewineisevaporated,3to4minutes.Stirinthetomatopaste,andcookafewminutes;thenpourinthetomatoes,tossinthebayleaves,andseasonlightlywithsaltandpepper.Bringtoaboil,thenlowertheheatsothesauceisbubbling.Cook,stirringoccasionally,untilthesauceisdensebutjuicyandarichdark-redcolor.Thiswilltakeabout2to3hours—thelongeryoucookit,thebetteritwillbecome.Whilethesauceiscooking,addhotwaterasnecessarytokeepthemeatsandvegetablescovered.

CLASSICPESTO

PestoallaGenovese

Pestohasnowbecomeahouseholdsauce:itiseasytomake,anditsfreshnessofflavorhasmadeitanoftenfoundfriendonAmericantables.Pestoisatitsbestwhenusedimmediatelyafteritismade,thoughitcanberefrigeratedforuptoafewweeksifit’sspoonedintoacontainer,toppedwitholiveoil,andsealedtight.Ifyoufindyourselfwithanabundanceofbasilinsummer,makesomepestoandstoreitinsmallportionsinthefreezer,whereitwilllastforuptoafewmonths.(Frozenpestogivesagreatburstoffreshflavortoheartywintersoupsandpastasauces.)I’vegivenyoutwomethodsforhowtomakethis,withamortarandpestleorwithafoodprocessor,buttheresultseitherwayaredelicious.

MAKESABOUT¾CUP,ENOUGHFOR1POUNDPASTA

4cupslooselypackedfreshbasilleaves(about60smallor30largefreshbasilleaves),gentlywashedanddriedPinchofcoarseseasalt2clovesgarlic,peeled3tablespoonspinenuts,lightlytoasted2tablespoons

freshlyandfinelygratedPecorinoRomanocheese2tablespoonsfreshlyandfinelygratedGranaPadanoorParmigiano-Reggianocheese3to4tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil

Tomakethepestoinamortar:Placeafewleavesofthebasilinthebottomofamortar,andsprinklethesaltoverthem.Crushtheleavescoarselywiththepestle,addafewmoreleaves,andcontinuecrushing,addingnewleaveseachtimethoseinthemortararecrushed,untilalltheleavesarecoarselyground.Tossinthegarlic,andpounduntilthemixtureformsasmoothpaste.Addthepinenuts,andgrindthemtoapaste.Stirinthecheeses,thenenoughoftheoliveoiltogivethepestoacreamyconsistency.Tomakethepestoinafoodprocessor:Combinethebasil,salt,andgarlicinthefoodprocessor,add2tablespoonsoftheoil,andblendatlowspeed,stoppingfrequentlytopressthebasildownaroundtheblades,untilacoarsepasteforms.Tossinthepinenuts,andpourintheremainingoliveoil.Blenduntilthepinenutsarefinelyground.Stirinthegratedcheesestoformacreamypaste.

MARINARASAUCESalsaMarinara

Cannedplumtomatoesmakeaneasyanddeliciousmarinarasauce.Youcanmakethissaucewithfreshtomatoesaswell,butIrecommenddoingitonlywhenthejuiciest,mostflavorfulripetomatoesareavailable.

MAKESABOUT1QUART,ENOUGHFOR6SERVINGSOFPASTA

¼cupextra-virginoliveoil8clovesgarlic,peeledOne35-ouncecanItalianplumtomatoes(preferablySanMarzano),lightlycrushed,withtheirliquidSaltandhotredpepperflakestotaste10freshbasilleaves,tornintosmallpieces

Heattheoilina2-to-3-quartnonreactivesaucepanovermediumheat.Whackthegarlicwiththeflatsideofaknife,addittotheoil,andcookuntillightlybrowned.Carefullyslidethetomatoesandtheirliquidintotheoil.Bringtoa

boil,andseasonlightlywithsaltandredpepperflakes.Lowertheheatsothesauceisatalivelysimmer,andcook,breakingupthetomatoeswithawhiskorspoon,untilthesauceischunkyandthick,about20minutes.Stirinthebasilabout5minutesbeforethesauceisfinished.Tastethesauce,andseasonwithsaltandredpepperifnecessary.

TOMATOSAUCESalsadiPomodoroThereisalightversionoftomatosauce,justtomatoes,garlic,andoliveoil,quicklycookedwithsomeaddedbasil.Thetomato

sauceinthisrecipeislonger-cooking,withvegetablesaddedtoit,makingitmorecomplexinflavor.

MAKESABOUT1QUART,ENOUGHFOR6SERVINGSOFPASTA

¼cupextra-virginoliveoil1smallonion,chopped(about⅓cup)¼cupfinelyshreddedpeeledcarrots¼cupfinelychoppedcelery(includingleaves)Two35-ouncecanspeeledItaliantomatoes(preferablySanMarzano),seededandlightlycrushed,byhandorwithafoodmill,withtheirliquid4freshbayleaves,or2driedSaltandhotredpepperflakestotaste

Heattheoilina2-to-3-quartnonreactivesaucepanovermediumheat.Stirintheonion,andcook,stirringoccasionally,untilwilted,about3minutes.Addthecarrotsandcelery,andcook,stirringoccasionally,untilgolden,about10minutes.Addthecrushedtomatoesandbayleaves,andbringtoaboil.Season

lightlywithsaltandredpepper.Lowertheheatsothesauceisatalivelysimmer,andcook,stirringoccasionally,untilthickened,about45minutes.Removethebayleaves.Taste,andseasonwithsaltandredpepperifnecessary.

BUTTERANDSAGESAUCE

SalsadiBurroeSalvia

Thisisadeliciousandsimplesauce,butintensewithsageflavor,andperfectfordressinggnocchi.It’sdeliciousevenwhenjustlightlydrizzledoverfreshgrilledfishorpoultry—alittleisallyouneed.YoucanfindthissimplerecipemostlyinthenorthofItaly,wherefreshpastaprevails,buttodayeventheRomantrattorieserveit.

MAKESABOUT1CUP,ENOUGHFOR1POUNDPASTA1½sticksbutter(12tablespoons),ormoretotaste

10wholefreshsageleaves

1cuphotwaterfromthecookingpotofyourpastaofchoice¼teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper,ortotaste1cupGranaPadanoorParmigiano-Reggianocheese,grated

Meltthebutterinasautépanovermediumheatuntiljustfoaming.Gentlylaythesageleavesinthepan,andheatuntiltheleavescrispup,aboutaminuteLadlein1cupboilingpastawater;stirthesauce,andsimmerforabout2minutes,reducingliquidbyhalf.Grindtheblackpepperdirectlyintothesauce.Keepthesaucehotoververylowheat;returntoasimmer,andimmediatelyaddcookedpastatothesauce.Tosswiththesauce,thenremovefromheat,andsprinklewiththecheesejustbeforeserving.

MUSHROOMRAGÙRagùdiFunghiMistiThisisagreatvegetariansauce,verycomplexand

satisfying.It’sexcellentforpasta,bakedinalasagnaorpolentapasticciata,cookedintorisotto—orasacondimentforgrilledsteakorfish.The

mushroomsyoucanbuyatthesupermarketwillmakeafinesauce,butifyouhavefreshwildmushroomsitwillbeevenbetter.Ineithercase,driedporciniprovidethekeyflavorinthissauce.Itisasaucethatfreezeswell,so

freezewhateverextrayoumayhavemade.

MAKESABOUT6CUPS,ENOUGHFOR3POUNDSPASTA

½ouncedriedporcini(about½cuplooselypackedpieces),soakedin1½cupswarmwaterforafewminutes,untilreconstituted2½poundssmall,firm,freshmixedmushrooms

3sprigsfreshthyme

1sprigfreshrosemary,atenderstemabout4incheslong1sprigfreshsagewith4bigleavesormoresmallerones¼cupextra-virginoliveoil

4tablespoonsbutter

1mediumonion,finelychopped(about1cup)

1cupfinelychoppedshallots

½teaspoonsalt,plusmoretotaste⅓cuptomatopaste

1cupdryMarsala

4cupshotchickenorvegetablestockFreshlygroundblackpepper

Squeezeoutthesoakedporcini,andslicethemintopiecesabout¼inchwide.Strainthesoakingwater,andkeepitinawarmspot.Clean,trim,andslicethefreshmushroomsintomoderatelythinslices,barely¼inchwide.Tiethesprigsoffreshherbstogetherwithapieceofkitchentwine,orenclosetheleavesincheesecloth.Puttheoilandbutterinalargeskillet,andplaceovermediumheat.Whenthebuttermelts,dumpintheonionandshallotsandhalfthesalt,andstirwell.Heattoaslowsizzle,andcookfor6minutesormore,stirringoften,untiltheonionsaresoft,wilted,andshiny,withoutanybrowning.Pourallthemushroomsintothepan,andspreadthemout.Sprinkleintheremainingsalt,dropintheherbbouquet,thentossbrieflyandcoverthepan.Raisetheheatabit,andcook,covered,forabout3minutes,shakingthepannowandthentosweatthemushrooms.Uncover,andcontinuetocookoverfairlyhighheat,stirringfrequently,asthemushroomsshrinkandtheliquidevaporates,5minutesormore.Whenthepanisdryandthemushroomsbegintobrown,clearaspot,dropinthetomatopaste,andtoastit,stirring,foraminuteorso;thenstiritintothemushrooms.Wheneverythingisbrowningagainandjuststartingtostick,pourtheMarsalaallover.Stirconstantlyasthewinethickensandevaporates.Whenthemushroomsagainstartstickingtothebottom,pourinthewarmmushroomwaterand2cupsofthehotstock.Bringtoanactiveboil,stirringupanycaramelizationonthepanbottom.Lowertheheattokeepthesaucebubblinggentlyalloverthesurface,andcoverthepan.Cookforabout20minutes,occasionallystirringandaddingstocktokeepthemushroomsnearlycoveredinliquid;expecttoadd½cuporsoatatime.Adjusttheheattokeepthesaucesimmering.Uncoverthepan,andcookforanother20minutes,continuingtosimmertheragùandaddingstockasneeded.Whenthemushroomsarethoroughlytenderandthesaucehasjustthickened,removeanddiscardtheherbbouquet.Seasonwithsaltandfreshlygroundblackpeppertotaste.

RAWSUMMERTOMATOSAUCEFORPASTASalsa

CrudadiPomodoroThisreciperequiresripeandjuicyhomegrowntomatoesorheirloomtomatoesfromthefarmers’market.Besuretohavethematroomtemperature,forthesauceactuallydevelopsinthehourortwothatitmarinates:saltdrawsthejuicesfromthetomatoes,andtheybecomeinfusedwiththeflavorsofbasilandgarlic.Thenallyoudoistosspiping-hotpastawiththetomatoesandenjoyararetreatofsummer.

MAKES3TO4CUPS,ENOUGHFOR1POUNDPASTA2poundsripesummertomatoes,preferablyheirloomvarietiesinamixofcolorsandshapes3to4plumpclovesgarlic,peeled½teaspoonsalt

6largebasilleaves

¼teaspoonhotredpepperflakes,ormoreorlesstotaste½cupextra-virginoliveoil1cupormoregratedGranaPadanoorParmigiano-Reggianoor

cubedfreshmozzarellacheese(optional)

Rinsethetomatoes,drain,andwipedry.Cutoutthecoreandanyothertoughparts.Workingoverabigmixingbowltocatchallthejuices,cutthetomatoes—cherrytomatoesinhalf;regulartomatoesinto1-inchchunks—anddropthemintothebowl.Smashthegarliccloveswithachef’sknife,andchopintoafinepaste(easierifyouaddsomeofthesaltasyouchop;mashthegarlicbitsandsaltwiththeflatsideoftheknife,too).Scatterthegarlicpasteandtherestofthesalt(½teaspooninall)overthetomatoes,andstirgently.Pileupthebasilleaves,andcutintothinstrips;youshouldgetabout3tablespoons.Scattertheseoverthetomatoes,thensprinkleinthehotredpepperflakes.Pourintheoil,stir,andfold,tocoatthetomatoesanddistributetheseasonings.Coverthebowlwithplasticwrap,andletitmarinateatroomtemperaturefor1to2hours.Tossthemarinatedsaucewithfreshlycookedanddrainedpasta.Serveasis,ortossin1cupgratedGranaPadanoorParmigiano-Reggiano.Forextrarichness,add1cupormorecubedfreshmozzarella.

SIDESANDVEGETABLES

SMOTHEREDESCAROLEScarolaAffogataItalianslovetheirbittergreens,likechicory,kale,and,ofcourse,escarole.WhenmyfamilyfirstcametoAmerica,escarolewas

alwaysonthetable—itwasreadilyavailable,affordable,andagoodsourceofnutrition.And,whenpreparedthisway,italwaysremindedusofhome.ButthissimpleItalianrecipeapplieswelltothepreparationofmostgreen

leafyvegetables,suchasspinach,kale,andbroccolirabe.

SERVES4

1pound(approximately2mediumheads)escarole6clovesgarlic,crushedandpeeled

3tablespoonsoliveoil

½teaspoonsalt¼teaspoonhotredpepperflakesFreshlygroundblackpepper

Topreparetheescarole,cutoutthecore,washtheleavestwiceinabundantcoldwater,drain,anddiscardanydamagedordiscoloredleaves.Sautéthegarlicinoilinalargepotuntilgoldenbutnotbrown.Addtheleavesandseasonings,cover,andcookovermoderateheat3or4minutes,stirringoccasionally.Removeanddiscardthegarlic;serveimmediately.

SWISSCHARDPOTATOESBietolaePatateSwisschardhasonlyrecentlybecomeapopularvegetableintheUnitedStates,butIgrewuponitandlovedit,andthiswasmyfavoritewayofcookingit.Chardcanbefoundwithbeautifullycolored

stems,whichreallyaddstothepresentationofthisdish.Traditionallyweusedregularpotatoes,butnowIsometimesreplacethemwithsweet

potatoes.

Thisdishisespeciallygoodwhenmadeinadvanceandreheated.

SERVES6

2poundsSwisschard

4quartssaltedwater

3mediumIdahopotatoes(about1¼pounds),peeledandcutcrosswiseinto4pieces¼cupextra-virginoliveoil

4clovesgarlic,crushedandpeeledSaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper

Topreparethechard:Trimtheendsfromthestems.Cutoffanddiscardanywiltedoryellowpartsoftheleaves.Stripthestemsfromtheleaves,andcutthestemsinto½-inchlengths.Cuttheleavesinhalflengthwise,thencrosswiseinto½-inchstrips.Washtheleafandstempiecesthoroughly,thendrainthemwell.Bringthesaltedwatertoaboilinalargepot.Addthepotatoes,and

cook20minutes,untiltender.AddtheSwisschardstems.Afteranother10minutesaddtheleaves,thencookalluntilthevegetablesareverytender,anadditional5minutes.Draininacolander.Heat2tablespoonsoftheoliveoilinalargeskilletovermediumheat.

Addthegarlic,andcookjustuntilitbeginstobrown,about1minute.AddtheSwisschardandpotatoes,andseasonthemlightlywithsaltand

pepper.Cook,stirringandmashingthepotatoes,untiltheliquidisevaporatedandthepotatoesarecoarselymashed.Ifthepotatoesbegintobrown,adjustthelevelofheattomedium-lowandcontinuestirring.Addtheremaining2tablespoonsoliveoil,andseasontotastewithsaltandpepper,stir,andservehot.

OLIVEOILMASHEDPOTATOES

PurediPatateall’Olio

Whodoesn’tlikemashedpotatoes?Ofcoursewelovethem,buteveryonewantstobecarefulaboutaddingtoomuchbutter.SotrymakingitthewaymynonnausedtomakeitinItaly—witholiveoil,orwithgarlicandoliveoil.It’shealthier,andstillafavoriteatourtable.Foravariation,toastthreegarlicclovesinoliveoilinalargeskilletandaddtothericedormashedpotatoes.

SERVES4

1poundIdahoorYukonGoldpotatoes,scrubbedbutunpeeledSalt¼cupextra-virginoliveoilFreshlygroundpepper,preferablywhite

Pourenoughcoldwateroverthepotatoesinalargesaucepantocoverthembyafewinches.Seasonthewaterwithsalt,andbringtoaboil.Cookuntilthepotatoesaretenderbutstillholdtheirshape,15to30

minutes,dependingonthesizeandshapeofthepotatoes.Drainthepotatoes,andletstanduntilcoolenoughtohandle.Peelthepotatoes,andpassthemthrougharicerorafoodmillwithafinedisc.Gentlystirintheoliveoil,andseasonthemtotastewithsaltandpepper.Servehot.

BRAISEDSWISSCHARDANDCANNELLINIBEANS

ZiminodiBietoleeFagioli

ThisrecipehailsfromMaremma,inTuscany,andaversionofitwasfirstfeaturedinLidia’sItaly.Swisschardisusuallysoldinabunchtiedaroundthestalks;lookforyoung,tenderbright-greenleavesandthinstalks.Inthisrecipe,cookedwithcannellinibeans,itcanbeacompletemeal.AfavoriteinTuscanyandatourhouse,thisdishisalsodeliciousservedwithgrilledmeats.(Ilovegrilledsausageswithit.)Itisgoodjustoffthestove,butitgetsbetterwhenitrestsabitandisreheated.Itwillkeepintherefrigeratorforafewdays,andalsofreezesverywell.

SERVES6

½pounddriedcannellinibeans1teaspooncoarseseasaltorkoshersalt,ortotaste,plus½teaspoonforcookingdriedbeans2poundsbigunblemishedSwisschardleaves6tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil,ormoretotaste4clovesgarlic,

peeledandthinlysliced


½teaspoonhotredpepperflakes,ortotaste1cupcannedItalianplumtomatoes(preferablySanMarzano),crushedbyhand

Rinsethebeans,andputtheminabowlwithcoldwatertocoverbyatleast4inches.Letsoakinacoolplacefor8hoursorovernight.Drainthebeans,andtransferthemtoalargesaucepanwithfreshcoldwatertocoverbyafewinches.Bringtoaboil,partiallycovered,andcookthebeansabout40minutes,untiltenderbutnotmushy.Turnofftheheat,andstirin½teaspoonsalt;letthebeanscooltoabsorbthecookingliquidandseasoning.Taste,andadjustthesaltifneeded.Bring6quartsofwatertotheboilinastockpot.Meanwhile,cleantheSwisschardleavesandcutoffthestemsandsavethemforasoup.Slicetheleavescrosswiseevery2inchesorso,intolongstrips.Whenthewaterisboiling,dropinalltheslicedchardatonce.Bringthewaterbacktotheboil,andcookthechard,covered,forabout15minutes,untilthoroughlytender—checkapiecewithathickmiddleveintobesure.Drainthecookedchardwellinacolander.Drainthecannellini.Heat¼cupoftheoliveoilandtheslicedgarlicinalargeskilletovermedium-highheat,stirringfrequently,untilthegarlicissizzling,about2minutes.Dropthetomatopasteintoaclearspotinthepan,andstirandtoastitforaminute.Toasttheredpepperflakesinaclearedhotspot,too,thenpourinthecrushedtomatoesandstireverythingtogether.Bringthetomatoestoaboil,andspillinthebeans.Stir,seasonwithsalt,andbringbacktosimmer,stirringoccasionally.Stirinthechardandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Cookrapidlyforacoupleofminutestoreducetheliquid,tossingthebeansandgreensoverandover.Asthejuicesthicken,drizzletheremaining2tablespoonsoliveoilallover,tossitinwiththevegetables,andsimmerforanother2or3minutes,untilmostoftheliquidhasevaporated.Serverightaway,orsetasidetheskillet,covered,andreheatlater.

BRUSSELSSPROUTSBRAISEDWITHVINEGARCavoliniBrasaticonAcetoBrusselssproutsarenotusuallyconsideredafavorite,butthisrecipehasconvertedmanyofmydinnerguestsintofans.Peoplemayshyawayfromthembecauseoftheintensecabbageflavor

whenthey’recookedwhole,butifyoucuttheminhalfandoffsettheflavorwithsomeacidity(vinegar)everyonewilllovethem.

SERVES6

1½poundsBrusselssprouts¼cupextra-virginoliveoil,plusmorefordrizzlingoverthefinisheddish6clovesgarlic,peeled

Salt1cupwater,orasneeded½cupredwinevinegarFreshlygroundblackpepper

Trimthecoreofthesprouts.Removethediscoloredouterleaves,andcuteachsproutverticallyinhalf.Washthemthoroughly,anddrainwell.Heat¼cupoliveoilina3-quartbraisingpotorwide,deepskillet.

Smashthegarliccloveswiththesideofaknife,andtossthemintotheoil,shakingthepanuntiltheyturngolden,about2minutes.Stirthesproutsintotheoil,seasonthemlightlywithsalt,andstiruntiltheyturnbrightgreen,about3minutes.Pourin1cupwaterandthevinegar,andbringtoaboil.Lowertheheatsotheliquidissimmering.Cook,uncovered,untilthesproutsaretenderandalmostfallingapartandtheliquidisalmostcompletelyevaporated,20to25minutes.Iftheliquidisevaporatedbeforethesproutsaretender,addmorewater,about¼cupatatime,asnecessary.Seasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.Spoonthesproutsintoawarmservingbowl,drizzlewithalittleolive

oil,andserve.

MARINATEDWINTERSQUASH

ZuccaGiallaMarinata

Squashisbecomingevermorepopular,andIlovecookingwithitanditsfabulousflavoraswell.Thisisagreatsidedishorappetizer—traditionallythezuccaisfriedbeforeitismarinated,asIdohere,butitisalsodeliciouswhengrilledorboiledfirst.ThoughIrecommendbutternutsquash,acorn,Hubbard,andothervarietieswillworkaswell.

SERVES6ORMOREASANAPPETIZERORASIDEDISH

1cupapplecidervinegarorwhitevinegar

1tablespoonsugar

½teaspooncoarseseasaltorkoshersalt,ormoretotaste6clovesgarlic,peeledandsliced


2-poundbutternutsquash

1cupvegetableoil,orasneeded10to20freshbasilleaves,shredded

Mixthevinegar,sugar,and¼teaspoonsalttogetherinasmallsaucepan.Letsimmeroverhighheatuntilthemarinadeisreducedbyhalf.Removefromtheheat,dropinthegarlicslices,andletthemarinadecool.Stirintheoliveoil.Slicethesquashinhalflengthwise,andscrapeoutalltheseeds.Peelthehalves;withthecutsidedown,cutcrosswiseinto⅓-inch-thickhalf-rounds.Pourathinlayerofvegetableoilintoadeepskillet,andsetovermedium-highheat.Whentheoilsizzlesoncontactwiththesquash,fillthepanwithalayerofslices,spacedslightlyapart.Fryforabout3minutesonthefirstside,thenfliptheslicesover.Fryonthesecondsideanother2or3minutes,untiltheslicesarecookedthrough(easytopiercewiththetinesofafork),crispedonthesurface,andcaramelizedontheedges.Liftoutthesliceswithaslottedspoon,drainingoffoil,andlaythemonpapertowels.Sprinklesomeoftheremainingsaltlightlyonthehotslices.Fryupallthesquash,inbatches,thesameway.Arrangeasinglelayeroffriedsquashinthebottomofthemarinatingdish,andscattersomeoftheshreddedbasilleavesontop.Stirupthemarinade,anddrizzleacoupleofspoonfulsoversquash.Continuetolayerthesquashinthedish,toppingeachlayeroffriedsliceswithbasilleavesandgarlicmarinade.Alltheseasoningsshouldbeused—drizzleanyremainingmarinadeoverthetoplayerofsquash.Wrapthedishinplastic,andmarinatethesquashforatleast3hoursandpreferablyovernightintherefrigerator;letitreturntoroomtemperaturebeforeserving.

EGGPLANTPARMIGIANAMelanzanealla

ParmigianaThisdishconjuresupmemoriesofGrandma’shouseinthemindsofmany,andpartofthosememoriesisthelovethatwentintothecooking.Fryingthebreadedeggplantisatraditionalpreparation,andit’s

becomepopularallover,asIdiscoveredwhileresearchingLidia’sItalyinAmerica.Butyoucanmakethisrecipebyjustgrillingtheeggplantslices;itisnotasflavorful,butitismuchlighterandleaner.InItaly,thisdishhasalwaysbeenservedasamaindish;inAmerica,itwasforyearsconsideredaside,althoughnowyoufinditoftenasamaindishhereaswell.Anall-timefavorite.

SERVES6

3mediumeggplants,or5or6smallereggplants(about2½to3poundstotal)1tablespooncoarseseaorkoshersalt3largeeggs

1teaspoonsalt

All-purposeflourfordredging

2cupsplainbreadcrumbs

½cupvegetableoil,orasneeded½cupoliveoil,orasneeded4cupsTomatoSauce2cupsgratedGranaPadanoorParmigiano-Reggianocheese

12freshbasilleaves

1poundfreshmozzarellaorItalianFontinacheese,sliced⅓inchthick

Trimthestemsandendsfromtheeggplants.Removestripsofpeelabout1inchwidefromtheeggplants,leavingabouthalfthepeelintact.Cuttheeggplantslengthwiseinto½-inch-thickslices,andplacetheminacolander.Sprinklewiththecoarsesalt,andletdrainfor1hour.Rinsetheeggplantundercoolrunningwater,drainthoroughly,andpatdry.Whisktheeggsand1teaspoonfinesalttogetherinabakingpanorwide,shallowbowl.Spreadtheflourandbreadcrumbsinanevenlayerintwoseparatewide,shallowbowlsoronsheetsofwaxpaper.Dredgetheeggplantslicesinflour,shakingofftheexcess.Diptheflouredeggplantintotheeggmixture,turningwelltocoatbothsidesevenly.Letexcesseggdripbackintothepan,thenlaytheeggplantinthebowlofbreadcrumbs.Turntocoatbothsideswellwithbreadcrumbs,pressingwithyourhandsuntilthebreadcrumbsadhere.Pour½cupeachofthevegetableandoliveoilsintoamediumskillet.Heatovermedium-highheatuntilacornerofoneoftheeggplantslicesgivesoffalivelysizzlewhendippedintotheoil.Addasmanyoftheeggplantslicesaswillfitwithouttouching,andcook,turningonce,untilwellbrownedonbothsides,about6minutes.Removetheeggplanttoabakingpanlinedwithpapertowels,andrepeatwiththeremainingeggplantslices.Adjusttheheatastheeggplantcookstopreventthebitsofcoatingthatfallofftheeggplantslicesfromburning.Addoiltothepanduringcooking,asnecessarytokeepthelevelthesame.Preheattheovento375degreesF.Heatthetomatosaucetosimmering,ifcoldorfrozen,inasmallsaucepanovermediumheat.

Ladleenoughsauceintoa9-by-13-inchbakingdishtocoverthebottom.Sprinklewithanevenlayerofgratedcheese,andtopwithalayeroffriedeggplant,pressingitdowngently.Tearafewleavesofbasilovertheeggplant,andladleabout¾cupofthesaucetocoatthetopevenly.SprinkleanevenlayerofgratedcheeseoverthesauceandtopwithalayerofmozzarellaorFontina,usingaboutone-thirdofthecheeses.Repeatthelayeringasdescribedabovetwomoretimes.Drizzleremainingsaucearoundthetopandsprinklewiththeremaininggratedcheese.Coverthebakingdishlooselywithaluminumfoil,andpokeseveralholesinthefoilwiththetipofaknife.Bakefor30minutes,untilthecheeseisbubbling.Uncover,andcontinuebakinguntilthetoplayerofcheeseisgolden,about15minutes.Letrest10to20minutes,thencutintosquaresandserve.

STUFFEDTOMATOESPomodoriFarcitialFornoThesestuffedtomatoesarebestmadeinthesummer,whentomatoesareabundant.Makesurethetomatoesareallapproximatelythesamesizeandnotoverripe;firmtomatoeswillyield

good-lookingresults.Thisisafamilyfavorite,andwhetherImakeitasanappetizerorasidedish,thereisneveranyleftover.Thisdishisverygoodwhenhotoutoftheoven,butIpreferitatroomtemperature.Itisagreatbuffetdish,or,whenyouaredoingalotofgrilling,itcanbeyourvegetableandstarchallinone.Forbestresults,makesureyoufillthetomatoes

loosely—donotoverstuff,ortheywillbetoodenseafterbaking.

SERVES8

1¼teaspoonskoshersalt2freshbayleaves,or3dried¾cupArboriorice2tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil

8firm-ripemediumtomatoes

¾cupfreshmozzarellacutintosmallcubes2-ouncepieceham,cutinsmallcubes½cupplus2tablespoonsgratedGranaPadanoorParmigiano-Reggianocheese10largebasilleaves,chopped½teaspoondriedoregano

Preheatovento400degreesF.Preparetherice:Inasmallpot,bring2cupswaterwith½teaspoon

salttoaboilwiththebayleaves.Stirinthericeand1tablespoonoftheoliveoil.Bringtoasimmer,andcook,uncovered,untilriceisaldenteandliquidisalmostallgone,about10minutes.Scrapeintoabowltocool.Slicethetopsoffthetomatoes,reservingforlater.Scoopouttheinner

fleshofthetomatoeswithaspoon,leavingathickshell.Asyouwork,putthefleshinastrainersetoverabowltocollectthejuices.Onceallof

thetomatoesarescoopedout,seasontheinsidesofthetomatoeswith½teaspoonofthesalt.Chopthetomatoflesh,andputitinthebowlwiththerice.Addthemozzarella,ham,½cupofthegratedcheese,thebasil,theoregano,andtheremaining¼teaspoonsalt.Tosstocombine.Pourthereservedtomatojuicesintothebottomofalargebakingdish.Evenlydividethestuffingbetweenthetomatoes.Arrangethecut-offtomatotopsinthebakingdish,cutsidedown,andplaceastuffedtomatooneachtop.Dependingonthesizeofyourtomatoes,youmayhavealittleleftoverstuffing.Ifso,rollitinto“meatballs”andplaceinthespacesbetweentomatoesinthebakingdish.Drizzletomatoeswiththeremainingtablespoonofoliveoil,andsprinkletopswiththeremaininggratedcheese.Bakeuntilthetomatoesaresoftandjuicyandthestuffingisbrownedontop,about20to25minutes.

SEAFOOD

SHRIMPPREPAREDINTHESCAMPISTYLEScampiEverybodyseemstolikecrunchy,garlickyshrimp.Theonecardinalmistakewithshrimpistoovercookthem.Usingthismethod,whereonemakestheflavoredbutterfirst,thechanceofovercookingtheshrimpis

minimized,andtheresultsaredelicious.

SERVES6


3largeclovesgarlic,peeledandminced

2tablespoonsfinelychoppedshallots

Saltandfreshlygroundblackpeppertotaste½cupdrywhitewine

2tablespoonsfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice

8tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature2teaspoonsmincedfreshparsley

2teaspoonsmincedfreshtarragon

36mediumtolargeshrimp(about3½pounds)

6to8sprigsfreshthyme

Tomaketheflavoredbutter:Heattheoliveoilinasmallskilletovermediumheat.Addthegarlic,andcookuntilpalegolden,about1minute.Stirintheshallots,seasongenerouslywithsaltandpepper,andcontinuecooking,shakingtheskillet,untiltheshallotsarewilted,about

2minutes.Add¼cupofthewine,bringtoaboil,andcookuntilabouthalfofthewinehasevaporated.Stirin1tablespoonofthelemonjuice,andboiluntilalmostalloftheliquidhasevaporated.Transfertoasmallbowl,andcoolcompletely.Addthebutter,parsley,andtarragon,andbeatuntilblended.Tomakethebuttereasiertohandle,spoonitontoplasticwrapandrollitintoalogshape,completelywrappedinplastic.Chillthoroughly.(Theflavoredbuttercanbemadeseveralhoursoruptoafewdaysinadvance.)Placetherackinthelowestpositionintheovenandpreheatovento475degreesF.Peeltheshrimp,leavingthetailandlastshellsegmentattached.De-veintheshrimpbymakingashallowcutalongthecurvedbackoftheshrimpandextractingtheblackorgrayveinthatrunsthelengthoftheshrimp.Splitthebodyoftheshrimphalfopenwithaparingknife,leavingthetailpartwhole.Usingsomeoftheflavoredbutter,lightlygreasealow-sidedbakingpan,suchasajelly-rollpan,oranovenproofsautépanintowhichtheshrimpfitcomfortablywithouttouching.Placeeachshrimpontheworksurfacewiththeundersideofthetailfacingawayfromyou.Withyourfingers,rolleachslitpartoftheshrimpunderneatheachsideoftheshrimp,liftingthetailup.Setthepreppedshrimp,tailsup,onthebutteredpanasyouwork,leavingsomespacebetweeneachshrimp.Cuttheremainingflavoredbutterinto½-inchcubes,anddispersethecubesamongtheshrimp.Addtheremainingwineandlemonjuice.Scatterthethymesprigsoverandaroundtheshrimp.Seasonwithsaltandpepper,andplacethepanontheovenrack.Bakeuntiltheshrimparefirmandcrunchyandbarelyopaqueinthecenter,about5minutes.Transfertheshrimptoahotplatter,ordivideamongwarmplates.Bringtheremainingjuicesinthepantoaboiloverhighheatontopofthestoveuntilthesauceislightlythickened,1to2minutes.Spoonthesauceovertheshrimpasis,orstrainitfirstforamorevelvetytexture.Serveimmediately.

GRILLEDCALAMARICalamariallaGrigliaTheprimaryingredientinanyfishpreparationmustbe

super-freshfish.Nowhereisthatmoreevidentthaningrillingcalamari.Thisdishcanbepreparedonacharcoalgrillorinacast-ironpanorgriddle,butineithercase,

thetemperatureshouldbegoodandhot,sothecalamaricookveryquickly.Foreasyhandling,threadthe

calamaribodiesontoaskewer—oneortwoperskewer,dependingonthesize.(Threadthetentaclesontoa

separateskewer,withoutcrowdingthem,sincetheywillneedafewadditionalminutestocook.)SERVES6

8mediumsquid(about3pounds),cleaned,leavingskinon¼cupextra-virginoliveoil,plusmorefordrizzlingoverthecookedsquidifyoulike6clovesgarlic,peeledandsliced

1tablespoonfreshthymeleaves

½teaspoonsalt½teaspoonhotredpepperflakesChoppedfreshItalianparsley

Tossthecleanedcalamaribodiesandtentaclestogetherwiththeoliveoil,garlic,thyme,salt,andredpepperinabowl,untilthecalamariiscoated.Coverthebowl,andmarinateinrefrigeratorfor1hour,oruptoovernight.Prepareacharcoalgrillwellahead,soitishot,orheatawidecast-

ironskilletorgriddleoverhighheatuntiladropofwaterbouncesandsizzles.Laythesquidonthegrillorintheskillet.Setaheavyskilletontopofthecalamaritoweightitdownsoasmuchofthecalamariaspossiblemakescontactwiththehotgrillorskillet.(Thismakesiteasier

forthecalamaritocookevenlyandbrownwell.)Cookuntilgoldenononeside,about4minutes,thenflipandcook3minutesontheotherside.Transfertoawarmplatter,anddrizzlewithadditionalextra-virginoliveoilifyoulike.SprinklewithchoppedItalianparsley,andserveimmediately.

SOLEMEUNIÈRE

FilettodiSogliolaalLimone

Thislightfishinalemonysauce,whichalwaysappearsonItalianandFrenchmenus,hasremainedafavoritefordecades.Iserveditinmyfirstrestaurant,andcontinuetoserveittoday.Irecommendusingfilletofsoleinthisrecipe,butthefilletofanyfishpreparedthiswayisdelicious.Itiseasytoprepare,andevenkidsloveit.Theresultisapuckerylemonfinish,withbrinycapers.YouknowhowmuchIloveoliveoil,butthereisatimeandplace

foreverything.Whensautéingfoodsthatcookquickly,likethesesolefillets,usingsomebutteralongwiththeoilhelpsthesolebrownbeforetheyovercook.Thickersoleorflounderfilletsareidealforthisdish,butifyoursarethinner,youmayfinditeasiertohandlethemifyoucuttheminhalffirst.Traditionallythefilletsaresimmeredinthesauce,butIliketocookthesauceseparatelyandspoonitaroundthesolefillets—theystaycrispierthatway.

SERVES4

5tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil,plusmoreforfinishingthesauceifyoulike


6filletsgrayorlemonsole,approximately2½poundsAll-purposeflourfordredging5clovesgarlic,crushedandpeeled12thinlemonslices(about2lemons)

3tablespoonsdrainedtinycapers

¼cupfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice¼cupdrywhitewine½cupvegetablestockorwater

2tablespoonschoppedfreshparsley

Saltandfreshlygroundblackpepper

Preheattheovento250degreesF.Heat3tablespoonsoftheoliveoiland4tablespoonsofthebutterinalarge,heavyskilletovermedium-highheatuntilthebutterisfoaming.Dredgethefilletsintheflourtocoatbothsideslightly.Gentlylayasmanyofthefilletsinthepanasfitwithouttouching.Cookjustuntiltheundersideislightlybrowned,about4minutes.Flipthemgentlywithawidemetalspatula,andcookuntilthesecondsideisbrownedandthefishisopaqueinthecenter,about2minutes.Transferthemwiththespatulatoabakingsheet,andkeepthemwarmintheoven.Repeatifnecessarywiththeremainingfillets,adjustingtheheatundertheskillettopreventthebitsofflourinthepanfromburning.Whenallthesolefilletshavebeenbrowned,carefullywipeouttheskilletwithawadofpapertowels.Addtheremainingoliveoilandtheremainingbutterandcrushedgarlic,andreturntomediumheat.Whenthebutterisfoaming,slideinthelemonslices,andcook,stirringgently,untiltheyaresizzlingandlightlybrowned.Stirinthecapers,andheat

untiltheyaresizzling,about1minute.Pourinthelemonjuiceandwine,bringtoaboil,andcookuntilreducedbyabouthalf.Pourinthevegetablestock,bringtoaboil,andboiluntilthesauceislightlythickened,about2minutes.Ifyoulike,drizzleinatablespoonortwoofoliveoiltoenrichthesauce.Sprinkleintheparsley,andtaste,seasoningwithsaltandpepperifyoulike.Removethesolefromtheoven,andsetonefilletinthecenterofeachplate.Fishthelemonslicesoutofthesauce,andtopeachfilletwithtwoofthem.Spoonthesaucearoundthefillets,dividingitevenly.Serveimmediately.

SAVORYSEAFOODSTEW

ZuppadiPesce

Thezuppadipescethatyouaremostlikelyfamiliarwithwasbasedongarlicandtomatosauce,whichwassimmeredalongwithassortedfishtomakeasavory,chunkydish.Thisversionismoreinabrodettostyle(myfavorite—lighterandclearer).ThiskindofpreparationcanbefoundwithslightvariationsalongtheentirenortherncoastofItaly.

SERVES6

2quartswater

One35-ouncecanItalianplumtomatoes(preferablySanMarzano),withtheirliquid1½cupsdrywhitewine4smallleeks,whitepartsonly,trimmedandcleaned;2cutinto3-inchlengths(about2cups),2sliced½inchthick(about2cups)2mediumcarrots,trimmedandslicedthick2largeonions,1cutintothickslices,1thinlysliced

10sprigsfreshthyme

Zestof½lemon,removedinwidestripswithavegetablepeeler½cupextra-virginoliveoilSalt8clovesgarlic,peeled4mediumcalamari(about1¼pounds),cleaned,tentaclesleftwhole,bodiescutcrosswiseinto½-inchrings10mediumseascallops(about½pound)8ouncesfresh,firm-texturedfishfillets,suchassalmon,snapper,orswordfish,skinremoved,cutinto1-inchpieces2cupscookedcannellinibeans(cannedisokay)(optional)24mussels,preferablycultivated,cleaned12jumboshrimp,peeledanddeveined(about½pound)¼cupchoppedfreshItalianparsleyFreshlygroundblackpeppertotasteGarlicBreadorcrustyItalianbread

Makethesoupbase:Combinethewater,tomatoes,wine,3-inchleeks,carrots,thicklyslicedonion,thyme,andlemonzestinasaucepan,andbringtoaboil.Lowertheheattokeepatalivelysimmer,andcookuntilreducedbyaboutone-third,about45minutes.Stirin¼cupoliveoil,seasonthemixturelightlywithsalt,andcontinuetosimmeruntiltheliquidportionofthesoupbaseisreducedtoabout8cups,about20minutes.Strainthesoupbaseintoa3-quartsaucepan,andkeepitwarmoverlowheat.Discardthesolids.(Thesoupbasemaybepreparedupto3daysinadvanceandrefrigerated.)Ifyouhavepreparedthesoupbaseinadvance,bringittoasimmerinamediumsaucepan.Adjusttheheattoverylowandkeepitwarm.Heattheremaining¼cupoliveoilinalarge(about8-quart)heavypotovermediumheat.Addthethinlyslicedonion,½-inch-slicedleeks,andgarlic,andcook,stirring,untiltheonioniswiltedbutstillcrunchy,about4minutes.Addthecalamari,andcook,stirring,untiltheyturnopaque,about2minutes.Pourinallbut1cupofthesoupbase,andbringtoaboil.Stirinthescallops,fishfillets,andbeans(ifusing).Adjusttheheattomaintainasimmer,andcookuntiltheseafoodisbarelyopaqueatthecenter,about5minutes.Meanwhile,addthemusselstothesoupbaseremaininginthesaucepan.Increasetheheattohigh,coverthesaucepan,andsteamovermediumheat,shakingthepanoccasionally,untilthemusselsopen,about3minutes.

Stirtheshrimp,parsley,andsteamedmusselsintheirshellsintothelargepotofsoup.Simmeruntiltheshrimparecookedthrough,about1minute.Checktheseasoning,addingsalt,ifnecessary,andpepper.Ladleintowarmsoupbowls,passingabasketofthebreadofyourchoiceseparately.

SHRIMPBUZARASTYLE

GamberoniallaBuzara

Everyonelovesshrimp,andhowbettertosavorthemthaninthistastysauce,oneofmychildhoodfavorites?ThisrecipeisatraditionalIstrianrecipeforaspeciesofshrimpsimilartolangoustines,notfoundinAmericanwaters,anditcomesfromtheareaaroundTrieste,Istria,andDalmatia,wheresomeofthebestscampiarecaught.HereIgiveyoutherecipeandtechniqueoflangoustineallabuzarasoyoucanpreparethisdeliciousdishwithshrimpforyourfamilyandguests.

SERVES4TO6

2poundssupercolossalshrimp(10to12perpound)1tablespoontomatopaste

1cuphotlightfishstock

¼cupoliveoil½cupfinelychoppedonion2clovesgarlic,crushedand

peeledSaltandfreshlygroundblackpeppertotaste1cupdrywhitewine1tablespoonbreadcrumbs


Usingpoultryshearsorasharpparingknife,cutthroughtheoutercurveoftheshrimpshellsfromendtoend,butdon’tremovetheshells.Rinsetheshrimpundercoldrunningwater,anddevein.Dissolvethetomatopasteinthehotstock.Heat2tablespoonsofoliveoilinamediumsaucepan.Addtheonionandgarlic,andsautéovermoderatelyhighheatuntilgolden.Seasonwithsaltandpepper,addthewine,andbringtoaboil.Addthestock-and-tomato-pastemixture,reducetheheat,andsimmer20minutes.Meantime,heattheremainingoilinalargeskillet,addtheshrimp,andsauté(intwobatches)1minuteoneachside.Drainofftheoil,returnalltheshrimptotheskillet,andaddthesauce.Cover,andcookoverhighheat,stirringoccasionally,untiltheshrimparejustcookedthrough,about2or3minutes.Sprinklewithbreadcrumbsandparsley,mixwell,andcookaminutelonger,uncovered.Serveimmediately.

LOBSTERINZESTYTOMATOSAUCEAragostainBrodettoThisishowmygrandmacookedlobsterwhenwewere

luckyenoughthatmyfishermanuncleEmiliohadcaughtoneortwo.Lobstercookedslowlywithtomato,vinegar,andonionisdeliciousonitsown,butweserveditoverpolenta,ortodresspasta.UsingvinegarinthisrecipeisanoldtechniqueofVenetiansailorstopreservetheirfoodwhileat

sea—itactuallygivesanicebalancetothesweetnessofthelobster.Needlesstosay,itisoneofmyfavoritewaystoeatlobster.

SERVES6

Six1¼-poundMainelobsters½teaspoonsalt,plusmoreforpasta(optional)⅓cupvegetableoil

1cupall-purposeflourfordredging

½cupextra-virginoliveoil1½cupsdicedonion1cupdicedscallions

6tablespoonstomatopaste

½cupredwinevinegar

3cupshotwater

4cupscannedItalianplumtomatoes(preferablySanMarzano),crushedHotredpepperflakes½cupchoppedfreshItalianparsleyleaves1poundspaghetti(optional)

CutthelivelobstersintoservingpiecesaccordingtothedirectionsfortheLobsterFraDiavolo.Ifyouplantoservethelobsterwithpasta,bring4quartssaltedwatertoaboil.Heatthevegetableoilinalargeskilletovermedium-highheat.

Meanwhile,lightlycoattheexposedmeatofthelobstertailswithflour,shakingoffexcessflour.Theoilishotenoughwhenacornerofalobstertaildippedinitgivesoffalivelysizzle.Addlobstertails,meatsidedown,andcook,shakingtheskilletoccasionally,untilgoldenbrown,about2minutes.Removethetailsfromtheoil,andsetthemaside.Heat⅓cupoftheoliveoilinalarge,widesaucepanovermediumheat.Addtheonionandscallions,andcookuntiltranslucent,3to4minutes.Addthelobsterbodypieces,andcook,stirring,untiltheyturnbrightred,about5minutes.Stirintomatopaste,andcookfor5minutes.Blendthevinegarwiththehotwater,thenpouritintothepanandbringtoafullboil.Addthetomatoesandsalt,bringtoaboil,andcook3minutes.Stirinredpepperflakestotaste.Removethelobsterbodieswithtongs,allowingalljuicestodrainbackintosauce,andkeepthemwarm;theymaybeservedonacommunalplatterinthecenterofthetable.Themostdelicatemeatisinthosebodiesandshouldnotbewasted.Addtheclawstothepan,andcook7minutes.Addthereservedtails,thelobsterlegs,theparsley,andtheremainingoliveoil.Simmeruntilthelobstertailsarefullycooked,3to5minuteslongeroverhighheat,skimmingoffallsurfacefoam.Removethetailsandclaws,andkeepthemwarmunderaluminumfoil.Bringthesaucetoaboil,andcookuntilslightlythickened.Arrangethelobsterpiecesonawarmplatter,andspoonthehotsauceoverthem.Toservethebrodettowithpasta,cookanddrainthepastaandreturnittothepot.Addhalfthelobstersauce,andtosstocoatoverlowheat.Transferthepastatoaplatter,andflankwiththelobsterpieces.Spoontheremainingsauceoverthelobster.

POULTRYANDMEATS

LAMBSTEWWITHOLIVES

Agnello’ncip’nciape

Thisisoneofthosedeliciousdishesthatarecomplexintastebuteasytoprepare.Manyhomecooksareintimidatedbylamb,butmyreaderstellmethattheyfindthisrecipebothtastyandeasy.Bonelesslambisreadilyavailable,andbonelesslambshoulderorlegmeatisjustfineforthisdish.

SERVES6ORMORE

3½poundsbonelesslambshoulderorleg


¼cupextra-virginoliveoil7plumpclovesgarlic,crushedandpeeled½teaspoonhotredpepperflakes,ortotaste2tablespoonsfreshrosemaryleaves,strippedfromthebranch1cupwhitewine

2tablespoonsred-winevinegar

1½cupsbrine-curedgreenItalianolivesoroil-curedblackItalianolives,crushedandpitted

Trimtheexteriorfatfromthelambshoulderorleg,andcutthemeatinto2-inchpieces,removingfatandbitsofcartilageasyoufindthem.Patthepiecesdrywithpapertowels,andseasonalloverwithhalfthesalt.PourtheoliveoilintoaDutchoven,andsetitovermediumheat.Scatterinthecrushedgarlicclovesandredpepperflakes.Whenthegarlicissizzling,layinallthelambpiecesinonelayer,scattertherosemaryontop,andseasonwiththeremainingsalt.Whenthemeatstartstosizzle,coverthepan,lowertheheat,andletcookgently,browningslowlyandreleasingitsfatandjuices,about10minutes.Uncoverthepan,turnthepieces,andmovethemaroundthepantocookevenly;thencover,andcookforanother10minutes.Turnagain,andcontinuecooking,covered,foranother10to15minutes,untilthelambisnicelybrownedalloverandthepanjuiceshavethickenedandcaramelized.(Ifthereisalotoffatinthebottomofthepan,tilttheskilletandspoonoffthefatfromoneside.)Stirthewineandvinegartogether,andpourthemintotheskillet,swirlingthemwiththepanjuices.Bringtheliquidstoaboil,andcookthemdownquicklytoformasyrupysauce.Droptheolivesintothepan,allaroundthelambchunks,thencover,andadjusttheheatsotheliquidmaintainsabubblingsimmer.Cookforanother10minutesorso,whichwillconcentratethejuicesandmarrytheflavors.Cookuncoveredforafewfinalminutes,tumblingthemeatandolivesinthepan,coatingthemwiththesauce.Serverightfromtheskillet,orheapthemeatchunksonaplatterorinashallowservingbowl.Spoonoutanysauceandolivesleftinthepan,anddrizzleoverthelamb.

SAUSAGEANDPEPPERSSalsicciaconPeperoni

Thekeytomakingreallywonderfulsausageandpeppersistocaramelizeeachingredientseparately—sausages,peppers,andonions—thentopilethemintoabakingdishandfinishthemintheoven.Thisway,allthesweetjuicesremaininthesausagesandvegetables.Sausageandpeppersisanall-timefavorite,foundateveryItalianfestivity,carnival,andstreetfairinAmericaandatmostlargeItalianAmericanfamilygatherings,asfeaturedinLidia’sItalian-AmericanKitchen.

SERVES8(INGREDIENTSCANEASILYBEHALVEDTOSERVE4)1poundwhite,shiitake,orcriminimushrooms(oramixoftwoorthreekinds)16linkssweetItaliansausages,withorwithoutfennelseeds(about3pounds)¼cupextra-virginoliveoil,orasneeded8clovesgarlic,peeled3largeyellowonions,cutinto1-inchwedges(about5cups)6pickledcherrypeppers,stemmedandseededbutleftwhole2mediumyellowand2mediumredbellpeppers,coredandseeded,cutinto1-inchstrips(about6cupstotal)

Preparethemushrooms:Trimthestemsfromtheshiitakes,ifusing.Trimthestemsfromthewhiteandcriminimushroomsifyoulike.Cutanymushroomswithcapslargerthan2inchesinhalf;leavesmallermushroomswhole.Pokethesausagesalloverwithafork.Divide¼cupoliveoilbetween

twolarge,heavyskillets,andheatthemovermediumheat.Dividethe

sausagesbetweentheskillets,andcook,turningoccasionally,untilthesausagesarewellbrownedonallsides.Inthemeantimewhackthegarlicwiththeflatsideofaknifeandtosshalftheclovesintoeachskillet.Transferthebrownedsausagesandgarlictoabakingdish,leavingthefatbehind.Preheattheovento400degreesF.Scattertheonionsandcherrypeppersoverthefatinoneoftheskillets,andthemushroomsoverthefatintheother.Cook,stirringoften,untiltheonionsarebrownedandwiltedbutstillquitecrunchy,about8minutes.Cookthemushroomsuntiltheyhaveabsorbedthefatintheskilletandhavebeguntobrown,about6minutes.Slidethemushroomsintothebakingdish.Spoontheonionsintothebakingdish,leavingbehindsomeofthefatintheskillet.(Ifthereisnotenoughfatlefttocoatthebottomoftheskillet,pourinenougholiveoiltodoso.)Addthebellpepperstotheskillet,andcook,tossingfrequently,justuntilwiltedbutstillquitecrunchy,about6minutes.Slidethepeppersintothebakingdish,tossalltheingredientstogetherwell,andplaceintheoven.Bake,uncovered,tossingoccasionally,untilthevegetablesaretenderbutstillfirmandnotraceofpinkremainsinthesausages,about25minutes.Servehot.

SAUSAGESWITHFENNELANDOLIVES

SalsicceconFinocchioeOlive

IlovefennelwithgoodItaliansausageforamaincourse,asandwich,oreventodresspasta;thiscombinationworks.Heremeatandvegetablesareskillet-cooked,firstseparatelyandthentogether,andtheirflavorsmergeandconcentrate.Itmayseemthatalotoffenneliscalledfor,butincooking,fennelreducesdown,caramelizingasitcooks.Fennelpreparedthiswayisexcellentwithanygrilledmeats,evenwithgrilledfish.IamgladtosaythattheAmericanpalateisslowlydiscoveringfennel,andthisrecipeprovidesaneasy,tastywaytoenjoyit.

SERVES6


12sweetItaliansausages(about2pounds)

1cupdrywhitewine

6plumpclovesgarlic,crushedandpeeled¼teaspoonhotredpepperflakes,ortotaste1cuplargegreenolives,squashedtoopenthemtoremovepits3½poundsfreshfennelbulbs,trimmedandcutinto1-inchchunks(seerecipeforZitiwithSausage,Onions,andFennelfortechnique)½teaspoonsalt

Pourhalftheoliveoilintoabigskilletovermedium-highheat.Layinallthesausages;cookthemfor5minutesormore,rollingthemoveroccasionally,untilthey’renicelybrownedonallsides.Pourinthewine,andboilituntilitisreducedbyhalf.Removethesausagestoaplatter,andpouroverthemthewineremaininginthepan.Addtheremainingoliveoiltotheskillet,tossinthegarliccloves,andcookforaminute,untilsizzling.Clearahotspot,andcooktheredpepperflakesinitforafewseconds,thenscatterthecrushedolivesinthepan;tossandcookforacoupleofminutes.Addthefennelchunkstothepan,andstir.Seasonthevegetableswith½teaspoonsalt,covertheskillet,andcookovermedium-highheatfor20minutes,stirringnowandthen,untilthefennelsoftens,andbeginstocolor.Addabitofwatertothepanifthefennelremainshard;youwantittobewiltedbutnotmushy.Whenthefenneliscookedthrough,returnthesausagesandwinetotheskillet.Turnandtumblethemeatandvegetablestogether,andcook,uncovered,another5minutes.Adjusttheseasoningtotaste;servepipinghot.

CHICKENINBEER

PolloallaBirra

Everyhouseholdhasitsfavoriterenditionofroastedchicken,andasimple,perfectlyroastedchickenisthebest.Butwhynotdiversifynowandthen?Atourhouseweoftengiveitatwistandroastthechickeninbeerwithcloveandcinnamon,astheydoinTrentino–AltoAdige,aregionofnorthernItalyfeaturedinLidiaCooksfromtheHeartofItaly.Thebeergivesitacomplexityofflavors,andleavesthechickenmoistwithagreatglossyskin.Notonlydoyouhavethebeer-flavoredroastedchickeninthisrecipe,butthevegetablesroastedalongwiththechickenarealsoagreatsidedish.

SERVES6

A3½-to-4-poundroastingchicken


2mediumonions,peeledandquartered1largecarrot,peeled,halved

crosswise,andquarteredlengthwise(about4ounces)2mediumparsnips,peeled,halvedcrosswise,andquarteredlengthwise(about6ouncestotal)2tablespoonsfreshsageleaves4wholecloves

1cinnamonstick

1½cupslightstock(chicken,turkey,orvegetablebroth)orwater1½cups(one12-ouncebottle)flavorfulbeerorale1cupnonalcoholicapplecider,preferablyunfiltered

Arrangearackinthemiddleoftheoven,andheatto400degreesF.Trimtheexcessfatfromthechicken,andseasonitinsideandoutwithhalfofthesalt.Scattertheonions,carrot,parsnips,sage,cloves,andcinnamoninthepot,sprinkleoverthistherestofthesalt,andsetthechickenontopofthevegetables.Putthepotonthestove,pourinthestock,beer,andapplecider,andbringtoasimmerovermediumheat.Cook,uncovered,forabout15minutesontopofthestove.Putthepotintheoven,androastthechickenforabout30minutes,bastingwiththepanjuicestwoorthreetimes.Coverthechickenwithasheetofaluminumfoiltopreventoverbrowning,androastanother30minutes.Removethefoil,androastanother20to30minutes,bastingfrequently,untilthechickenandvegetablesarecookedthroughandtender.Removethechickentoawarmplatter,andsurroundwiththevegetables.Bringthepanjuicestoaboilontopofthestove,andcookuntilreducedbyhalf.Carvethechickenatthetable,andspoonsomeofthepanjuicesontop.

CHICKENCACCIATOREPolloallaCacciatore

ChickencacciatorehasbeenpreparedinItalianhomesforever,anditisusuallymadebycuttingupawholechicken.Butifyoudon’twanttocutupawholechicken,youcanbuypieces—getalllegsandthighs,whichiswhatIlike.Bestofall,though,istomakethisdishwithanorganicolderhen.Ifyoudomakethiswithanolderhen,increasethecookingtimeby20minutes,addingmorewaterorstockasneededtokeepthehencoveredwhileitcooks.

SERVES6

2broilerchickens(about2½poundseach,preferablyfree-range)SaltandfreshlygroundblackpeppertotasteAll-purposeflourfordredging

¼cupvegetableoil¼cupextra-virginoliveoil1smallyellowonion,cutinto1-inchcubes(about1cup)½cupdrywhitewine

One28-ouncecanItalianplumtomatoes(preferablySanMarzano),withliquid,crushed1teaspoondriedoregano,preferablytheSicilianorGreektypedriedonthebranch,crumbled2cupsslicedwhiteorshiitakemushrooms(about8ounces)1redand1yellowbellpepper,coredandseeded,cutinto½-inchstrips(about2cupstotal)

Cuteachchickenintotwelvepieces:Withasturdyknifeorkitchenshears,removethebackbonebycuttingalongbothsides.Removethewingtips.(Youcansavethebackbone,wingtips,andgiblets—exceptfortheliver—tomakechickenstockanothertime.Or,ifyoulike,cutthebackboneinhalfcrosswiseandaddittothisdish.)Placethechicken,breastsidedown,onacuttingboard,andcutitintohalvesbycuttingthroughthebreastbonelengthwise.Cutoffthewingatthejointthat

connectsittothebreast,thencuteachwinginhalfatthejoint.Separatethelegfromthebreast.Cuttheleginhalfatthejoint.Cutthebreastinhalfcrosswise,givingtheknifeagoodwhackwhenyougettothebonetoseparatethebreastcleanlyintohalves.Repeatwiththeremainingchicken.Seasonthechickenpiecesgenerouslywithsaltandpepper.Dredgethepiecesinflour,coatingthemlightlyandtappingoffexcessflour.Heatthevegetableoilinawidebraisingpanwith2tablespoonsoftheoliveoiluntilapieceofchickendippedintheoilgivesoffaverylivelysizzle.Addasmanypiecesofchickentothepanaswillfitwithouttouching(donotcrowdthechicken;youcanalwaysbrownitinbatches).Removethechickenpiecesfromtheskilletastheybrown,addingsomeoftheremainingpiecesofchickentotaketheirplace.Afterbrowningallthechickenandremovingitfromtheskillet,addtheoniontothefatremaininginthepanandcook,stirring,for5minutes.Pourthewineintothepan,bringtoaboil,andcookuntilreducedbyhalf,about3minutes.Addthetomatoesandoregano,seasonlightlywithsaltandpepper,andbringtoaboil.Tuckthechickenintothesauce,adjusttheheattoagentleboil,andcoverthepan.Cook,stirringafewtimes,for20minutes.Meanwhile,heattheremaining2tablespoonsoliveoilinalargeskilletovermedium-highheat.Addthemushroomsandpeppers,andtossuntilthepeppersarewiltedbutstillquitecrunchy,about8minutes.Seasonthevegetableswithsalt.Addthepeppersandmushroomstothechickenpan.Cook,covered,untilthechickenandvegetablesaretender,10to15minutes.(Checktheleveloftheliquidasitcooks;thereshouldbeenoughliquidtobarelycoverthechicken.Ifnecessary,addsmallamountsofwatertomaintainthelevelofliquidasthechickencooks.)Servethechickenpiecesnestledbetweenthevegetablesonaplatter.

CHICKENPARMIGIANA,NEWSTYLE

PolloallaParmigiana

Chickenparmigianaisall-timefavoriteamongItalianAmericans,andmygrandchildrenarenoexception.Butthisisamorecontemporaryversionoftheclassic.Insteadofcoatingathin,breaded,andfriedchickencutletwithtomatosauce,IliketotopthechickenwithslicesoffreshtomatoesandslicesoffreshmozzarellaorFontinacheese.Iusealighttomatosaucemadewithfreshtomatoesandbasiltofinishtheplate.

SERVES4

4boneless,skinlesschickenthighsorbreasts(about1½pounds)SaltandfreshlygroundblackpeppertotasteAll-purposeflourfordredging¾cupfinedryplainbreadcrumbs

2largeeggs

1cupvegetableoil,orasneeded3ripeplumtomatoes,coredandthinly

sliced6ouncesfreshmozzarellaorItalianFontinacheese,slicedthinFORTHESAUCE¼cupextra-virginoliveoil,plusmorefordrizzlingoverthefinisheddish6clovesgarlic,peeled8ripetomatoes,or12ripeplumtomatoes,peeled,seeded,andchopped¼cupshreddedfreshbasilleaves

Cutoffanyfat,bone,andgristleremainingonthechickenthighs.Placetwothighsbetweentwosheetsofplasticwrap.Poundthemlightlywiththetoothedsideofameatmallettoamoreorlesseventhickness.Seasonthechickenthighslightlywithsaltandpepper.Spreadouttheflourandbreadcrumbsontwoseparateplates.Beattheeggsinawide,shallowbowluntilthoroughlyblended.Dredgethechickeninflourtocoatlightly,andtapoffexcessflour.Diptheflouredthighsinthebeatenegg,andholdthemoverthebowltolettheexcesseggdripbackintothebowl.Transferthechicken,onepieceatatime,totheplateofbreadcrumbs;turnittocoatwithbreadcrumbs,pattinggentlyandmakingsurethateachthighiswellcoated.Heatthevegetableoilinawide,heavyskilletovermedium-highheatuntilacornerofoneofthecoatedthighsgivesoffalivelysizzlewhendippedintheoil.Addtotheoilasmanyofthechickenpiecesasfitwithouttouching.Fry,turningonce,untilgoldenonbothsidesandcookedthrough,about8minutes.Removetoabakingsheetlinedwithpapertowels,anddrainwell.Removethepapertowelsfromthebakingsheet.Topeachchickenthighwithoverlappingslicesoftomato,dividingthetomatoesevenly.Drapetheslicedcheeseoverthetomatoestocoverthechickencompletely.Preheattheovento400degreesF.Preparethesauce:Heat3tablespoonsoftheoliveoilinawidenonreactiveskillet.Whackthegarliccloveswiththesideofaknife,anddropthemintotheoil.Cook,shakingthepan,untilgoldenbrown,about2minutes.Carefullyslidethechoppedtomatoesintotheskillet,seasonlightlywithsaltandpepper,andcookuntillightlythickened,about10minutes.Removefromtheheat,andsetaside.

Bakethechickenuntilthecheeseislightlybrowned,about10minutes.Whilethechickenisbaking,reheatthetomatosaucetokeepitsimmering,stirinthebasil,andtaste,seasoningwithsaltandpepperifnecessary.Spoonthesauceontoaheatedplatterorplates,andplacethebakedchickenoverthesauce.Drizzletheremainingoliveoiloverthesauce,andserveimmediately.

CHICKENBREASTWITHEGGPLANTANDFONTINACHEESE

PolloallaSorrentinaThenameofthisdish,“allaSorrentina,”meansitoriginatedinSorrento,acrossthebayfromNaples,andwheneveryousee“allaSorrentina”itisagoodindicatorthatthedishwillcontaineggplantandmeltedcheese—althoughIhavesometimessubstitutedzucchini,asparagus,andsquashforeggplant,accordingtotheseason.InmyresearchthroughouttheUnitedStatesforLidia’sItalyinAmerica,thisrecipeappearedonthetablesofmanyItalianAmericanrestaurantsand

homesinslightlydifferentversions.

SERVES6

1mediumeggplant(about1¼pounds)Salt


Six6-ounceboneless,skinlesschickenbreastsFreshlygroundblackpepper

6slices(about3ounces)importedItalianprosciutto,cutinhalf



6clovesgarlic,peeled½cupdrywhitewineAbout1cuphotchickenstockorcannedlow-sodiumchickenbroth¼cupcannedItalianplumtomatoes(preferablySanMarzano),seededandchopped12freshbasilleaves,plusmore(optional)fordecoratingtheplates6ouncesItalianFontinacheese,cutintothinslices2tablespoonsTomatoSauceorliquidfromthecannedtomatoes

Trimthestemfromtheeggplant.Removestripsofpeelabout1inchwide,leavingabouthalfthepeelintact,andcuttheeggplantinto1-inchcrosswiseslices.Sprinkleabakingsheetwithsalt,arrangetheslicesoverthesalt,andsprinklewithmoresalt.Letthemstanduntilbothsidesarewet,about30minutes.Rinsetheeggplantundercoolrunningwater,drainthoroughly,andpatdry.Preheattheovento400degreesF.Wipethebakingsheetclean,andoilitgenerously,usingabouthalftheoil.Arrangetheeggplantonthebakingsheet,andturntocoatthesliceswithoil.Roastuntiltenderandwellbrowned,turningthemandrotatingtheminthepanasnecessary,about20minutes.Removeandcool.Increasetheoventemperatureto450degreesF.Cuteachchickenbreastinhalfonabias,andlightlypoundit.Seasonthechickenverylightlywithsaltandpepper(theprosciuttowillgivethedishplentyofsaltasis),andlayereachpieceofchickenwithhalfasliceoftheprosciutto,tappingtheprosciuttowiththebackofaknifesoitadherestothemeat.Heat2tablespoonsoftheremainingoliveoiland2tablespoonsofthebutterinaheavy,wideskilletovermediumheat.Dredgethechickeninflourtocoatbothsideslightly,tappingoffexcessflour,andaddasmanytotheskillet,prosciuttosidedown,aswillfitwithoutoverlapping.Cookjustuntiltheprosciuttoislightgolden,about2minutes.Turn,andcookuntilthesecondsideisbrowned,about2minutes.Remove,anddrainonpapertowels.Repeatwiththeremainingchicken,addingmoreoilifnecessary.Afterremovingthelastpieceofchickenfromtheskillet,pourintheremainingoil,andscatterthegarlicintheskillet.Cook,turning,untilgoldenbrown,about3minutes.(Lowertheheat,ifnecessary,sothebitsofflourthatsticktothepandon’tburnwhilethegarlicisbrowning.)Pourthewineintotheskillet,bringtoaboil,andboiluntilit’salmostcompletelyevaporated.Pourinthestock,anddropintheremaining3tablespoonsbutter.Bringtoaboil,stirinthechoppedtomatoes,andboiluntilthesauceislightlyreducedandglossy,about4minutes.Meanwhile,arrangethescaloppinesidebysideinabakingdish.Coverthemwiththeeggplant,cuttingortearingtheslicesasnecessarytocoverallthescaloppinemoreorlessevenly,andtopeachwithaleafofbasil.DividetheFontinaslicesevenlyovertheeggplant,dottingeach

Fontinaslicewithadaboftomatosauce.Pourthepansaucearoundthechicken,andbakeuntilthecheeseismeltedandlightlybrownedinplacesandthesauceislightlythickened,about10minutes.Transferthebubblychickentoservingplates,placingtwooneach.Spoonthesauce—throughastrainerifyoulike—aroundtheplates.Decoratetheplateswithadditionalbasilleavesifdesired.

MYMOTHER’SCHICKENANDPOTATOESPolloePatatedellaMammaChickenandpotatoes,cookedtogetherinabigcast-ironskilletuntilthechickeniscrispandmoistatthesametime,ismymother’sspecialty.Growingup,mybrotherandIdemandediteveryweek;agenerationlater,ourkids,TanyaandJoe,andmybrotherFranco’schildren,Eric,Paul,andEstelle,clamoredforit,too.Andnowthenextgenerationof

littleonesareaskingtheirgreat-grandmothertomakechickenandpotatoesforthem.Thisisbyfaroneofourmostrequestedrecipes;IamsureGrandma’spersonalitymusthavesomethingtodowithit,butthe

tastydishhasmeritsallitsown.

SERVES4

FORTHEBASICCHICKENANDPOTATOES

2½poundschickenlegsorassortedpieces(bone-in)½cupcanolaoil½teaspoonsalt,ormoretotaste1poundRedBlisspotatoes,preferablynobiggerthan2inchesacross2tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil,ormoreasneeded2medium-smallonions,peeledandquarteredlengthwise2shortbranchesfreshrosemarywithplentyofneedlesFORMYSPECIALTOUCHES—TRYEITHERORBOTH

4to6ouncesslicedbacon(5or6slices)1or2pickledcherrypeppers,sweetorhot—ormore!—cutinhalfandseeded

Rinsethechickenpieces,andpatdrywithpapertowels.Trimoffexcessskinandallvisiblefat.Cutthedrumsticksfromthethighs.Ifusingbreasthalves,cuteachintotwosmallpieces.Makethebaconroll-ups:Cutthebaconslicesinhalfcrosswise,and

rolleachstripintoaneat,tightcylinder.Stickatoothpickthroughtherolltosecureit;cutorbreakthetoothpicksoonlyatinybitsticksout(allowingthebacontorollaroundandcookevenly).Pourthecanolaoilintoadeepskillet,andsetoverhighheat.Sprinkle

thechickenonallsideswithhalfthesalt.Whentheoilisveryhot,laythepieces,skinsidedown,intheskilletaninchorsoapart—watchout

foroilspatters.Don’tcrowdthechicken:ifnecessary,youcanfryitinbatches,cookingsimilarpiecestogether.Dropthebaconrollsintotheoilaroundthechicken,turningandshiftingthemoften.Letthechickenfryinplaceforseveralminutestobrownontheunderside,thenturnandcontinuefryinguntilthepiecesaregoldenbrownonallsides,7to10minutesormore.Frythebreastpiecesonlyfor5minutesorso,takingthemoutoftheoilassoonastheyaregolden.Letthebaconrollscookandgetlightlycrisp,butnotdark.Adjusttheheattomaintainsteadysizzlingandcoloring;removethecrispedchickenpieceswithtongstoabowl.Meanwhile,rinseanddrythepotatoes;sliceeachonethroughthemiddleontheaxisthatgivesthelargestcutsurface,thentosstheminabowlwiththeoliveoilandtheremainingsalt.Whenallthechickenandbaconiscookedandoutoftheskillet,pouroffthefryingoil.Returntheskillettomediumheat,andputinallthepotatoes,cutsidedown,inasinglelayer,pouringtheoliveoilintotheskilletwiththem.Fryandcrispthepotatoesforabout4minutestoformacrust,thenmovethemaroundthepan,stillcutsidedown,untilthey’reallbrownandcrisp,7minutesormore.Turnthemoverandfryanother2minutestocookandcrispontheirroundedskinsides.Keepingtheskilletovermediumheat,tosstheonionwedgesandrosemarybranchesaroundthepan,inwiththepotatoes.Returnthechickenpieces—exceptthebreastpieces—tothepan,alongwiththebaconrolls;pourinanychickenjuicesthathaveaccumulatedandaddthecherrypeppers.Raisetheheatslightly,andcarefullyturnandtumblethechicken,potatoes,onions(andbaconand/orpepperpieces)sotheyarecoatedwithpanjuices,takingcarenottobreakthepotatopieces.Spreadeverythingoutinthepan—potatoesonthebottomasmuchaspossible,tokeepcrispingup—andcover.Lowertheheatbacktomedium,andcookforabout7minutes,shakingthepanoccasionally;thenuncover,andtumblethepiecesandpotatoes(andbaconrolls)again.Cover,andcookanother7minutesorso,addingthebreastpiecesatthispoint.Andgiveeverythinganothertumble.Nowcookcoveredfor10minutesmore.Removethecover,turnthepiecesagain,andcookintheopenskilletforabout10minutes,toevaporatethemoistureandcaramelizeeverything.Tasteabitofpotato(orchicken)forsalt,andsprinkleon

moreasneeded.Turnthepiecesnowandthen—whentheyareallglisteningandgolden,andthepotatoesarecookedthrough,removetheskilletfromthestoveand—asIdoathome—bringitrighttothetable.

ROASTEDLOINOFPORKSTUFFEDWITHPRUNES

ArrostodiMaialeallePrugne

Roastedporkloinisalwaysagreatholidaycenterpiece.Itisdeliciousplain,orwithherbsandrosemary,butIlovetheelementofprunespairedwithpork,especiallyiftheyaredousedwithgrappaorbourbon.Iusetheprunesasastuffing,andthrowafewinthesauceaswell.Muchtomysurprise,thishasbecomeanoldfavoriteofmyreaderseversincetheydiscovereditinLidia’sItalianTable—Ibelieveitistheprunesthatgivethedishthatsomethingextraspecialthatissotastyandappealing,anddemonstratethatthedinnerisaspecialevent.

SERVES8

½poundpittedprunes½cupbourbonOnebonelesscenterpork-loinroast,about3pounds(askyourbutchertobonetheribroast,oryoucandoityourself,andtrimthefat)

10freshsageleaves

Saltandfreshlygroundblackpepper


½cup¼-inch-dicecarrots½cup¼-inch-dicecelery½cuproughlychoppedonion4clovesgarlic,crushedandpeeled2½cupschickenstockorcannedlow-sodiumchickenbroth

Inasmallcontainer,soaktheprunesinbourbonfor1hour.Heattheovento450degreesF.Draintheprunes,andsetfourofthemasidealongwiththesoakingliquid.Tostufftheroast:Useasharpknifetocuta1-inchpocketalongtheentirelengthoftheeye,aroundthetophalfpartoftheroast.Cutfrombothsidesoftheroastuntilyoucutthrough.Linetheremainingsoakedprunesalongtheslitintheroast.Foldtheflapovertheopening,andtietheroastsecurelywithkitchentwineat2-inchintervals.Threadthesageleavesintworowsthroughthetiesoneithersideoftheroast.Seasontheroastgenerouslywithsaltandpepper,andrubitwiththeoliveoil.Placetheroastinalargeroastingpan.Roast15minutes.Reducetheoventemperatureto400degreesF.Tilttheroastingpan,andspoonoffexcessfat.Scatterthecarrot,celery,onion,andgarlicaroundtheroast.Roast15minutes.Addthereservedprunesandsoakingliquid,androast10minutes.Pourthestockintothepan,andcontinuecooking,bastingtheroastoccasionallywiththepanjuices,untilameatthermometerinsertedintothethickestpartoftheroastregisters155degreesF,30to40minutes.Removetheroasttoaplatter.Passthecontentsofthepanthroughafoodmillfittedwiththefinediscintoasmallbowl.(Alternatively,straintheliquidthroughasieve,pressingonthevegetablestoextractasmuch

liquidaspossibleandtoforcesomeofthevegetablesthroughthesieve.)Skimallfatfromthesurfaceofthesauce.Thesauceshouldbethickenoughtocoataspoonlightly.Ifnot,transferthesaucetoasmallsaucepan,bringtoasimmer,andsimmeruntilitisthickenough.Seasonthesaucewithsaltandpepper,ifneeded.Cutthemeatinto¼-inchslices,andservewiththesauce.

BRAISEDPORKRIBSWITHRIGATONICostolettediMaialeBrasateconRigatoni

Americalovesbarbecuedribs,andIdoaswell,butItalianscookthemintomatosauceanddresstheirpastawiththosedeliciousmorselsofmeat.Themeatandsauceareabsolutelysucculent,andeverybodyatourhomeenjoyspickingthemeatoffthebone.

SERVES6

1wholerackporkspareribs(about4pounds)Saltandfreshlygroundblackpepper¼cupextra-virginoliveoil

2largeyellowonions,sliced(about3cups)8clovesgarlic,peeled6pickledcherrypeppers,stemmed,seeded,andquarteredTwo35-ouncecansItalianplumtomatoes(preferablySanMarzano),withtheirliquid,seededandcrushed2freshbayleaves,or3dried

6sprigsfreshthyme

2to3cupshotwater,orasneeded

1poundrigatoni

¼cupchoppedfreshItalianparsley⅔cupfreshlygratedGranaPadanocheese,plusmoreforpassingifyoulike

Cuttherackofspareribsbetweenthebonesintosingleribs(oraskyourbutchertodothisforyou).Seasontheribpieceswithsaltandpepper.Heattheoliveoilinalarge,heavybraisingpanovermediumheat.Addasmanyoftheribsaswillfitwithouttouching.Cook,turningoccasionally,untilbrownedonallsides,about10minutes.Removetheribs,anddrainonabakingsheetlinedwithpapertowel.Repeatwiththeremainingribs.(Adjustthetemperaturethroughoutthebrowningsothefatinthepanissizzlingbutthepiecesofporkthatsticktothepandon’tburn.)Pouroffallbutabout4tablespoonsoffatfromthepan.Addtheonions,garlic,andcherrypeppers,andcook,stirring,untiltheonionsarewiltedandcaramelized,about4minutes.Stirinthetomatoes,bayleaves,andthyme.Bringtoaboil,scrapingthepantoloosenthebrownbitsstucktothebottom.Tuckthespareribsintothetomatosauce,seasonlightlywithsaltandpepper,andbringtoaboil.Adjusttheheatsotheliquidissimmering,andcook,turningthespareribsinthesauceoccasionally,untiltheribsarefork-tender,about2hours.Ladlesomeofthehotwaterintothecasserolefromtimetotime,asnecessarytokeeptheribscoveredwithliquid.Toserve:Whentheribsarealmosttender,heat6quartsofsaltedwatertoaboilinan8-quartpot.Stirtherigatoniintotheboilingwater,andcook,semi-covered,stirringoccasionally,untildone,about10minutes.Drainthepasta,returnittothepot,andspooninenoughofthespare-ribsaucetocoatthepastagenerously.Tossintheparsley,andbringthesauceandpastatoasimmer,tossingtocoatthepastawithsauce.Checktheseasoning,addingsaltandpepperifnecessary.Removethepotfromtheheat,andstirinthegratedcheese.Transferthepastatoawarmplatterorindividualplates,andtopwiththespareribs.Spoonalittleoftheremainingsauceoverthepasta,andserveimmediately,passingadditionalsauceandgratedcheeseseparately.

MEATLOAFWITHRICOTTAPolpettonediManzoconRicottaIamsurethatyourfamilyhasafavorite

recipeformeatloaf—itis,afterall,anAmericantradition.ButtheItalianshavebeenmakingpolpettoneformanyyears.IntheItalianversion,ricottaisaddedtothemix,whichrendersthemeatloaftenderandmoist.Allthee-mailsIreceivetellmethisrecipehascaughton

likewildfire.Toaccompanythismeatloaf,Ilovebraisedbroccolirabeorescarole,servedonaseparateplateor

platter.

SERVES8ORMORE

1cupmilk

3cupsday-oldbreadcubesfromaloafofcountrybread3poundsgroundbeef(freshlygroundpreferred)3largeeggs,beatenwithapinchofsalt1pounddrainedfreshricotta(about2cups),plusmoreforthesauceifyoulike1bunchscallions,finelychopped(about1cup)½cupgratedGranaPadanoorParmigiano-Reggianocheese¼cupchoppedfreshItalianparsley½teaspoonfreshlygratednutmeg

1tablespoonkoshersalt

Freshlygroundblackpeppertotaste½poundfreshmozzarella,cutinto½-inchcubes(about2cups)¼cupextra-virginoliveoil

4to5cupsTomatoSauce

Preheattheovento375degreesF.

Pourthemilkoverthebreadcubesinabowl,andletsoakforafewminutes,untilthebreadissaturated.Squeezethesoftbreadahandfulatatime,pressingoutasmuchmilkasyoucan(discardthemilk).Tearthebreadintosmallshreds,andtossbackintotheemptybowl.Crumblethegroundbeefintothebowl,andaddtheeggs,ricotta,scallions,gratedcheese,parsley,nutmeg,salt,andpepper.Foldandtosseverythingtogether,andsqueezethemixtureafewtimesbetweenyourfingerstodistributealltheingredientsevenly.Scatterthemozzarellacubesontop,andfoldandmushthemthroughouttheloafmix.Brushtheroastingpanwith2tablespoonsofoliveoil.Gatherthemeatmixtureinthebowl,turnitintothepan,andshapeitintoafatovalloaftheshapeofaloafofcountrybread.Drizzlewiththeremaining2tablespoonsoliveoil.Coverthepanwithfoil—tentitsoitdoesn’ttouchthemeat—andbake45minutes.Removethefoil,andcontinuetobakeuntilthemeatloafisbrownedalloverandcompletelycookedthrough,another1½hoursorso.(Ifyouchecktheloafwithameatthermometer,itshouldreachatemperatureof160degrees.)Removetheloaffromtheoven,andletitrestforabout10minutes.Heatthetomatosaucetoasimmerinasaucepanwhilethemeatrests.Turnofftheheat,and,ifyoulike,stir½cuporsofreshricottaintothesauce.Cuttheloafcrosswiseinthepanoronacuttingboard,intoslicesasthickasyoulike.Serveonwarmdinnerplates,toppedwithaspoonfulortwoofsauce,andpassmoresauceatthetable(or,forfamily-styleserving,arrangetheslicesonawarmplatter,toppedwithsomeofthesauce).

VEALOSSOBUCOWITHBARLEYRISOTTOOssobucodiVitelloconRisottod’Orzo

OssobucoistheonlydishthathasnotcomeoffmymenuatFelidiainthirtyyears.Peopleabsolutelylovetherichflavorofvealshankpreparedthisway,andthesoftmeat,fallingoffthebone.Theseriousossobucoeatersevenscoopthemarrowoutofthecenterofthebones.I’msureyouhavealreadytriedseveralrecipesforossobucoifyou’reafan,butdotrythisversion—thejuicefromtheorangekeepsitlightandfresh,butstillveryclassic.Thetraditionalossobucoisusuallyservedwithrisotto,asintherecipeinLidiaCooksfromtheHeartofItaly,butIfindthatbarleyismucheasiertohandle.Unlikerisotto,barleycanbepreparedinadvance,andIloveitsnuttyflavor.HereIalsogiveyoutherecipeforthegremolata,asimplechoppingofparsley,garlic,andlemonpeel.Itbringsanadditionalfreshnesstothedish,butisnotnecessary.

SERVES6

FORTHEOSSOBUCO

1sprigfreshrosemary1sprigfreshthyme2freshordriedbayleaves4wholecloves

1lemon

1orange,peelandjuice¼cupextra-virginoliveoil1cupfinelychoppedonion1cupshreddedcarrots

1cupfinelydicedcelery

Saltandfreshlygroundblackpeppertotaste3wholevealshanks,bone-in,eachabout3½pounds,andeachcutinto2pieces

1cupall-purposeflour

½cupvegetableoil1tablespoontomatopaste

1cupdrywhitewine

2cupscrushedcannedplumtomatoes(preferablySanMarzano)4cupschickenstockorcannedlow-sodiumchickenbrothFORTHEBARLEYRISOTTO

2quartswater

1cup¼-inch-dicecarrots1cup¼-inch-diceonion1cup¼-inch-dicecelery2freshordriedbayleaves

1teaspoonextra-virginoliveoil

1½cupspearlbarley


FORTHEGREMOLATA

Zestof2lemons(yellowpartonly,nowhitepith),finelychopped¼cupfinelychoppedfreshItalianparsley1clovegarlic,finelychopped

Preparetheossobuco:Tietherosemary,thyme,bayleaves,andclovessecurelyina4-inchsquareofcheesecloth.Withavegetablepeeler,removethezest(yellowpartofthepeelonly)fromthelemoninwidestrips.Dothesametotheorange.Squeezethejuicefromtheorange,andreserveseparately.Heattheoliveoilovermediumheatinawide,heavycasserolelargeenoughtofitallthevealshanks.Addtheonion,andcook,stirringoccasionally,untilwilted,about5minutes.Addthecarrots,celery,andthecheeseclothbundleofherbs.Seasonlightlywithsalt,reducetheheattolow,andcook,stirringoccasionally,for10minutes.Patthevealshanksdrywithpapertowels.Tieapieceofkitchentwinesecurelyaroundtheperimeterofeachpieceofshanktoholdittogetherduringcooking.Seasonthemallwithsaltandpepper,andcoatwithflour,shakingtheexcessflouroff.Dividethevegetableoilbetweentwolarge,heavyskillets,andheatovermediumheat.Addtheshankstotheskillets,andcook,turningonce,untilwellbrownedonallsides.(Alternatively,theshanksmaybebrownedinbatchesinasingleskillet.)Addthebrownedossobucotothecasserolewiththevegetables,andaddthetomatopaste.Stirthetomatopasteintothevegetables,andcook,stirringoccasionallyandturningtheshanksonceortwice,10minutes.Pourinthewhitewine,bringtoaboil,andthenaddtheorangejuiceandtheorangeandlemonzest.Bringtoavigorousboiloverhighheat,andboil10minutes.

Addthecrushedtomatoes;reducetheheattolow,andsimmer,covered,for30minutes.Stirinacupofthechickenstock.Cover,andsimmeroverlowheat,addingstocktokeepthelevelofliquidinthecasserolethesame,untiltheshanksaretender,about1½hours.Rotatethevealshanksinthecasseroleastheycook.Meanwhile,preparethebarleyandthegremolata:Bringthewater,

carrots,onion,celery,bayleaves,andoliveoiltoaboil.Stirinthebarley,andcookuntiltenderbutstillfirm,about40minutes.Drainthebarley,andsetaside.Tomakethegremolata,tossthelemonzest,parsley,andgarlicina

smallbowluntilblended,andsetaside.Whenthevealistender,removetheshankpiecesandcutoffthe

strings.Passthecookingsaucethroughasieve,pressinghardonthesolidstoremoveasmuchliquidaspossible.Returnthemeatandstrainedsaucetothecasserole,andbringtoaboil.Checktheseasoning,andkeepthevealwarmoverlowheat.Finishthebarley:Heatthebutterinalarge,heavyskilletover

medium-lowheat.Addthebarley,andcook,stirringoften,untilitisheatedthroughandcoatedwithbutter.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.Servesomebarleyandtwopiecesofthevealoneachplate,sprinkling

thevealwithgremolata.

SCALOPPINESALTIMBOCCA,ROMANSTYLE,WITHSAUTÉEDSPINACH

SaltimboccaallaRomana,conSpinaciSaltati

Vealscaloppinearetraditionallyusedinthisrecipe,butchickenbreastorporkwillworkjustaswell.Thebeautyofthisisthatitiseasy,flavorful,andacompletedish,withvegetablesandproteins.

SERVES4

FORTHESAUTÉEDSPINACH

1poundloosespinach,orone10-ouncecellophanepackagespinach


3clovesgarlic,peeledSaltandfreshlygroundblackpeppertotasteFORTHESCALOPPINESaltandfreshlygroundblackpeppertotasteEight3-ounceslicesveal,lightlypoundedtoabout⅛inchthick4slices(about2ouncestotal)importedItalianprosciutto,eachslicecutinhalfcrosswise



3tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil,orasneeded


¼cupdrywhitewine1cupchickenstockorcannedlow-sodiumchickenbroth

Washthespinach,butdon’tdrytheleavescompletely.Thewaterthatclingstothemwillsteamthespinachasitcooks.Heattheoliveoilinawideskilletovermediumheat.Whackthegarliccloveswiththesideofaknife,andtossthemintotheoil;cook,shakingthepan,untilgolden,about2minutes.Scatterthespinachalargehandfulatatimeintothepan,seasonlightlywithsaltandpepper,andcoverthepan.Cookuntilthespinachbeginstoreleaseitsliquid.Uncoverthepan,andcook,stirring,untilthespinachiswiltedanditswaterhasevaporated,1to3minutes.Taste,andseasonwithadditionalsaltandpepperifnecessary.Removefromheat,andcoverthepantokeepitwarmwhileyoupreparethesaltimbocca.Seasonthescaloppinelightlywithsaltandpepper(keepinginmindthattheprosciuttoisalreadycuredwithsalt).Covereachscaloppinawithahalfsliceoftheprosciutto;taptheprosciuttowiththebackofaknifesoitadhereswelltothemeat.Centerasageleafovertheprosciutto,andfastenitinplacewithatoothpick,weavingthetoothpickinandoutasifyouweretakingastitch.Dredgethescaloppineintheflourtocoatbothsideslightly,thenshakeoffexcessflour.Heattheoliveoiland2tablespoonsofthebutterinalarge,heavyskilletovermediumheatuntilthebutterisfoaming.Slipasmanyofthescaloppine,prosciuttosidedown,intothepanasfitwithouttouching.Cookjustuntiltheprosciuttoislightgolden,about2minutes.Turn,andcookuntilthesecondsideisbrowned,about2minutes.Remove,anddrainonpapertowels.Repeatwiththeremainingscaloppine,addingmoreoilifnecessary.Removeallthescaloppinefromtheskillet,andpourofftheoil.Returnthepantotheheat,andpourinthewine.Addtheremainingbutter,andcookuntilthewineisreducedbyabouthalf.Pourinthechickenstock,andbringtoavigorousboil.Tuckthescaloppineintothesauce.Simmeruntilthesauceisreducedandlightlythickened,about3to4minutes.Taste,andseasonwithsaltandpepperifnecessary.Toserve,spoonthespinachintoamoundinthecenterofeachplate.Arrangetwopiecesofthesaltimboccaoverthespinach.Spoonsomeofthepansauceoverthescaloppine,andserveimmediately.

VEALCHOPSWITHFONTINACostoletteallaFontinaVealchopsarealwayssomethingspecialandextravagant,butworthspendingthemoneyonwhen

preparedwell.Inthisrecipe,thickribchopsarestuffedwithFontinacheese,brownedandbraisedonthe

stovetop,thenbaked.Theresultisquitegrand,becausethesucculentmeatandpansauceareenrichedwithdribletsandhiddenpocketsofsweetmeltedFontina.However,letmepointoutthatyoucanmakecostolette

allaFontinainmoremodestversionsthatareabsolutelydeliciousandmucheasieronthepocketbook,usingthickporkchopsorplumpchickenbreasts.Youmayhavetoadjustboththeamountofcheeseyouputinsideandthe

cookingtimeateachsteptoavoidovercooking.

SERVES6

6bone-invealribchops,about1½inchesthick,8to10ounceseach


8ouncesshreddedItalianFontina(agoodwhitecheddarwilldoaswell)1cupgratedGranaPadanoorParmigiano-Reggianocheese4tablespoonsbutter


½cupall-purposeflourfordredging,plusmoreasneeded12freshsageleaves


2cupswhitewine

½cuphotchickenbroth

Arrangeanovenracktoaccommodateacoveredsaucepan,andheatovento400degreesF.Trimthechops,leavingonlyathinlayeroffatontheperimeter.Withasharp,thinknife,slicehorizontallyintotheouteredgeofeachchop,splittingthemeatyportionintwoalmostallthewaytothebone,formingapocketforstuffing.Withthemallet,poundindividuallyeachflapofthechopmeat,spreadingthemeatapart,flatteningitto½-inchthickness.Whenallthechopsareslicedandpounded,saltthemonbothsides,usingateaspooninall.Inabowl,tosstogethertheshreddedFontinaandthegratedGranaPadanoorParmigiano-Reggiano,anddividethecheesesintosixequalportions.Oneatatime,lightlycompressthecheeseportionsintoovalpatties,andslipthemintotheslicedchoppockets.Foldthebottommeatflapoverthetopflap—enclosingthecheese—andthreadatoothpickthroughbothflapstokeepthemtogether.Put2tablespoonsofthebutterandtheoliveoilinalargeskillet,andsetovermedium-highheat.Spreadtheflouronaplate,dredgeeachchoponbothsides,shakeoffexcessflour,andlaythechopinthepan.Whenallthechopsareinthepan,dropthesageleavesinbetweenthem.Cookthechopsfor5minutesormore,turningthemonceortwice,untilwellbrownedonbothsides.Clearaspaceinthepanbottom,dropinthetomatopaste,andtoastitinthehotspotforaminute.Pourthewineoverthetomatopaste,stirthemtogether,andshakethepantodistributetheliquid.Bringittoaboil,andcookfor3minutesorso,toreduce.Addtheremainingbutter,andwhiskitintothepanliquid.Turnthechopsover,pourinthechickenbroth,sprinkleontheremainingsalt,andbringtoaboil.Coverthepan,andplaceintheoven.Roastforabout15minutes,thenremovethecoverandroastanother10minutesorso,

untilthechopsaredoneandthesaucehasthickened.Removefromtheoven,andplacethechopsonawarmplatter.Ifthesauceisthin,putthepanoverhighheatandreduceuntilthesaucehastheconsistencyyoulike.Serverightaway—whilethecheeseisstilloozing—arrangingallthechopsonawarmplatterandspooningthesauceover,family-style,oronwarmdinnerplateswithmashedpotatoesalongsideandsaucedrizzledover.

BRAISEDBEEFROLLS

BraciolediManzo

Abigpotofsaucewithplentyofbeefbracioleperkingonastove—thathasbeentheSundaymealformanyItalianAmericanhouseholdsforaslongasIcanremember.Sausagesandmeatballsaddedtothepothavesometimesmadeforanevenmorebountifuldinner.Thebracioleareservedonaplatter,whilethesaucedressesabigbowlofrigatoni.Theonlythinglefttodoistobeckoneverybodytothetabletoeat.

SERVES6

FORTHEBRACIOLE

1½cupsmilk2cups½-inchbreadcubes,cutfromday-oldItalianbreadwithcrustsremoved2hard-cookedeggs,peeledandcoarselychopped¼cupchoppedfreshItalianparsley¼cupfreshlygratedGranaPadanoorParmigiano-Reggianocheese¼cupraisins

¼cuppinenuts,toasted

1clovegarlic,finelychopped2poundsbeefbottomround,cutinto12sliceseachabout½inchthick12slicesimportedItalianprosciutto(about6ounces)¼poundimportedprovolaorprovolonecheese,cutinto¼-by-¼-by-1-inchsticksSaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperFORTHESAUCEOne35-ouncecanItalianplumtomatoes(preferablySanMarzano)


2smallonions(about8ounces),chopped2clovesgarlic,finelychopped½cupdryredwine3tablespoonstomatopaste


Saltandhotredpepperflakestotaste

Tomakethestuffing:Pourthemilkintoamediumbowl,addthebreadcubes,andletsoakuntilthebreadisverysoft,20to30minutes.Drainthebread,squeezeoutexcessmilkfromthecubeswithyourhands,andreturnbreadtothebowl.Stirinthechoppedeggs,parsley,GranaPadanoorParmigiano-Reggiano,raisins,pinenuts,andgarlic.Mixwell,andsetaside.Withthetoothedsideofaheavymeatmallet,poundeachsliceofbeefroundtoathicknessofabout¼inch.Arrangeoneofthepoundedmeatslicesinfrontofyouwithoneoftheshortsidesclosesttoyou.Topwithasliceofprosciutto,andtaptheprosciuttowiththebacksideofaknifesoitadherestothebeef.Spread2tablespoonsofthestuffingoverthebeefslice,leavinga1-inchborderaroundtheedges.Placeastickofprovolonecrosswiseovertheedgeofthestuffingclosesttoyou.Foldtheborderovertheprovolone,thenfoldthesidebordersintooverlaptheedgesofthestuffing.Rollintoacompacttube.Securetheendflapwithatoothpick.Repeatwiththeremainingbeefandstuffing,thenseasontherollswithsaltandpepper.

Emptythetomatoesintoabowl,andsqueezethemwithyourhandsuntilcoarselycrushed,removingthecoresasyoudo.Heattheoliveoilinalarge,heavycasseroleovermediumheat.Stirintheonionsandgarlic,andcookuntiltheonionsarewilted,about5minutes.Addasmanyofthebracioleaswillfitinasinglelayer,andcook,turningthebracioleasnecessary,untilgoldenonallsides,about7minutes.Ifnecessary,repeatwithanyremainingbraciole.Adjusttheheatunderthepanasnecessarytopreventthebeeffromscorching.Pourthewineintothecasserole,bringtoaboil,andcookuntilmostofithasevaporated.Stirinthetomatoes,andbringtoaboil.Addtomatopasteandbayleaves,andstiruntilthepasteisdissolved.Seasonlightlywithsaltandredpepperflakes,adjusttheheatsotheliquidissimmering,andcook,addingwaterasnecessarytokeepthebraciolecompletelysubmerged,untilthebeefistender,about3hours.Removethetoothpicksbeforeserving.Thebraciolecanbepreparedupto2daysinadvance,thenwarmedoverlowheatuntilheatedthrough.

PAN-SEAREDSTEAKWITHPIZZAIOLASAUCEBisteccaallaPizzaiolaThetomatosauceandvegetablesinthisdishwillbringtomindtheflavorsofpizza,anAmericanfavorite.Andwhenthoseflavorsarepairedwithsteak,anotherAmericanfavorite,howcouldyougowrong?Ialwaysenjoyagoodgrilledsteak,butthesauceandearthinessofthevegetablesheremakeforaperfectpairingwiththemeatandagood

pieceofcrustybreadtomopuptheleftoversauceonyourplate.

SERVES4


3clovesgarlic,peeledandsliced1redbellpepper,coredandseeded,cutinto1-inchstrips1yellowbellpepper,coredandseeded,cutinto1-inchstrips

2cupsslicedwhitebuttonmushrooms

1¼teaspoonskoshersalt½teaspoondriedoreganoOne14-ouncecanItalianplumtomatoes(preferablySanMarzano),crushedbyhandFour8-ouncebone-inshellsteaks,about1inchthick

Heattheoliveoilinalargeskilletovermedium-highheat.Whentheoilishot,addtheslicedgarlic.Letthegarlicsizzleaminute,thentossinthebellpeppersandmushrooms.Seasonwith1teaspoonofthesaltandtheoregano.Sautéuntilthemushroomsandpeppersarecaramelizedontheedges,about5minutes.Pourinthetomatoes,andsloshoutthecanwith½cuphotwater,

addingthattotheskilletaswell.Bringtoasimmer,andcook,uncovered,untilthesauceisthickenedandthepeppersbreakdown,about12to15minutes.

Seasonthesteakswiththeremaining¼teaspoonsalt.Searthesteaksinalargecast-ironskilletoverhighheatuntildonetoyourliking,about2minutespersideforrare.Letthesteaksrestforafewminuteswhilethesaucefinishescooking.Toserve,putthesteaksonplatesandtopwiththepeppersauce.Serveimmediately.

BEEFBRAISEDINBAROLOStuffatoalBaroloEvenifyouarethousandsofmilesaway,there’snodoubtyouwillbetransportedtonorthernItalyforafewhourswhilethebeefinthisrecipecookstomeltingtenderness.AndeventhoughinItaly—

specifically,inPiemonte—itisbraisedinBarolowine,thisdishisdeliciouswhenanygoodfull-bodiedredwineisusedincookingit.

SERVES6ORMORE

5-poundbonelessbeefroast,flatiron,chuck,orbottomround,trimmedoffat2teaspoonscoarseseasaltorkoshersalt,ortotaste⅓cupextra-virginoliveoil

2mediumonions(1poundtotal),peeledandquartered3mediumcarrots(½poundtotal),peeledandcutinto2-inchwedges4mediumstalkscelery(½poundtotal),cutinto2-inchchunks6plumpclovesgarlic,peeled

2branchesfreshrosemarywithlotsofneedles


¼teaspoonfreshlygratednutmeg

1teaspoonwholeblackpeppercorns

1ouncedriedporcinislices(about1cup,looselypacked)2bottlesBarolo(750mleach),orasneeded2cupsbeefstock,orasneeded

Heattheovento250degreesFwitharacksetinthecenter.Seasonallsurfacesoftheroastwithhalfthesalt.Pourtheoliveoil

intoalarge,heavybraiserandsetovermedium-highheat.Laytheroastin,andbrownituntilcaramelizedallover.Removetoaplatter.Whilekeepingtheskilletovermedium-highheat,dropinthecut

vegetablesandgarliccloves,tosstocoatwithoil,andspreadthemoutinthepan.Dropintherosemary,sageleaves,gratednutmeg,peppercorns,driedporcini,andremainingteaspoonsalt,andtossalltogether.Cookfor3or4minutes,stirringfrequentlyandscrapingupthebrownedmeatbitsonthepanbottom,justuntilthevegetablessoften;thenlowertheheat.Pushthevegetablestothesidesandreturntheroasttothepan,layingitflatonthebottom.Pourinthebottlesofwineandanymeatjuicesthatcollectedontheplatter.Theroastshouldbeatleasthalfsubmerged—addbeefstockasneeded.Coverthepot,andheatuntilthewineissteamingbutnotboiling.Uncoverthepan,andplaceitintheoven.After30minutes,rotatetheroastsotheexposedmeatisnowsubmergedinthebraisingliquid.Braisethisway,turningthemeatinthepanevery30minutes,forabout3hours,untilfork-tender.Theliquidshouldnotboil—ifitdoes,pourinsomecoldwatertostopthebubbling,andlowertheoventemperature.After2½hours,checkthebeef.Itshouldbeforktender.Takethepanfromtheoven.Movethemeattoaplatter,andreserveintactcarrotandcelerypiecestouseasagarnish.Skimanyfatfromthebraisingjuices,heattoaboil,andreducetoasaucyconsistencythatcoatsthebackofaspoon.Pourthroughasievesetoveracleancontainer.Pressthejuicesfromthestrainedherbsandvegetablepieces.Pourinanyjuicesfromthemeatplatter,andseasonthesaucetotastewithsaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper.(Ifyouarenotgoingtoserveitrightaway,putthemeatandreservedvegetablesinthesaucetorestandcool,foracoupleofhoursorovernightintherefrigerator.)Toserve,slicethemeatcrosswise(easiestwhenitiscool).Pourashallowlayerofsauceinawideskillet,andlaytheslicesin,overlapping.Heatthesaucetobubbling,spooningitoverthebeef,sotheslicesarelightlycoated.Liftthemwithabroadspatulaandslideontoawarmplatter,fannedout.Heatthecarrotsandceleryinthesauce,too,ifyou’vesavedthem,andarrangeontheplatter.Serve,passingmoreheatedsauceatthetable.

DESSERTS

ALMONDPINENUTCOOKIESAmaretticonPinoliThesecookiesappearateveryItalianholiday.Theyaresimpletomake,keepwellforaweekormore,areagreatgifttogiveandtoreceive,butmostofalltheyaredelicious.Somelikethemchewy,somelikethemcrunchy;thedegreeofcrunchinessisonlyamatterofhowlongyou

bakethem.Thelongeryoubakethemthecrunchiertheybecome.

MAKESABOUT30COOKIES

Two7-ouncetubesalmondpaste1cupsugar

2largeeggwhites

Zestof1orange,finelygrated1½cupspinenuts,leftwhole

Preheatovento350degreesF.Linetwobakingsheetswithparchment.Crumblethealmondpasteintotheworkbowlofafoodprocessor,and

processuntilthepasteisinfinecrumbs.Sprinkleinthesugarwiththemotorrunning.Oncethesugarisincorporated,addtheeggwhitesandorangezest.Processtomakeasmoothdough,about20to30seconds.Spreadthepinenutsonaplate.Formthedoughinto2-tablespoon-size

balls,rollandpressthemtocoatinpinenuts,thenplacethemonthebakingsheets.Bakeintheupperandlowerthirdoftheoven,switchingtrayshalfwaythroughbaking,untillightlygoldenandspringytothetouch,about13to15minutes.Letcoolonthebakingsheetsforabout5minutes,thentransferthecookiestocoolingrackstocoolcompletely.

ROASTEDPEARSANDGRAPESPereeUvaalFornoThisismyfavoritedessertforadinnerparty.Light,

tasty,andeasytomake,itisagreatdessertwhenyouhavecompany:youcanjustslipthisrecipeintotheovenandhaveagranddessert,especiallyifyouserveitwithvanillaicecream.Pearsandgrapesmakeagreatmarriage

offlavors,but,dependingontheseason,Ialsolikebakedquinceandcranberries.Totrythat,cutthepeeledandcoredquinceinquarters,

becausetheytakelongerthanthepearstobake,thenaddthecranberriesinsteadofthegrapes.

SERVES6

2cupsseedlessredgrapes

1cupsugar

Juiceof2lemons

⅔cupMoscatowine½vanillapod,splitlengthwise2tablespoonsapricotjam

3firmbutripeBoscpears

Preheatovento375degreesF.Placethegrapesinabakingdish.Combinethesugar,lemonjuice,Moscato,vanillabeansfromthepod,andapricotjaminabowl,andstiruntilblended.Pourthisoverthegrapes.Cuteachpearinhalfthroughthecore,andremovethecoresandseeds.Nestlethepearhalves,cutsideup,intothegrapes.Bakeuntilthepearsaretenderandtheliquidaroundthegrapesis

thickandsyrupy,about50minutes.Removethepears,andletstandforabout10minutes.Servethemwithsomeofthegrapesandtheirliquidspoonedaroundthem.

CHOCOLATEBISCOTTIPUDDING

BudinodiGianduia

Thisdelightfulpuddingisafineexampleoftheartofusingleftoverstomakesomethingfreshandnew.Herecrumbledbiscotti,choppedchocolate,andchoppedhazelnutsaremixedintothewarmcustard.“Chocolate”and“custard”aretwofavoritewordsatmyhouse,andhereyougettohavethemboth.

SERVES6TO8

2largeeggs

¾cupsugar

2tablespoonscornstarch

1¼cupsheavycream,plusmoreforwhippedtopping

1cupmilk

⅓cupcocoapowder1½cupscoarselyhand-crumbledplainbiscotti3½ouncesfinelychoppedbittersweetchocolate½cuptoasted,skinned,finelychoppedhazelnuts,pluscrushednutsfortopping(optional)

Whisktheeggswiththesugarinalargebowl.Whiskthecornstarchintotheeggsuntilnolumpsremain.Pourthecreamandmilkintoasaucepan,setitoverlowheat,andbringtoasimmer.Turnofftheheat,andslowlypourabout1cupofthehotmilk-creamintotheeggbowl,whiskingsteadily,totempertheeggs.Whenblended,slowlypourthetemperedeggsbackintothesaucepanofwarmmilkandcream,againwhiskingconstantly.Setthepanbackovermedium-lowheat,andwhisksteadilyuntilthecustardheatsandthickens.Don’tletitboil,thoughitshouldbubbleoccasionally.Cookfor7to8minutes,untilitisquitethick.Siftcocoapowder.Removethecustardfromtheheat,andstirinthecrumbledbiscotti,choppedchocolate,nuts,andcocoapowder.Stircontinuouslyuntilthechocolatehasmeltedandalltheingredientsareevenlyblended.Linea9-inchpieplatewithplasticwrap,leavingafewinches’overhangonalledges.Pourthecustardintothepieplate,andcoverwithplasticwrap,layingitdirectlyontopofthepudding.Refrigerateuntilset,atleast4hoursorovernight.Toserve:Removethetopsheetofplastic,invertthebudinoontoaservingplate,andcutintowedges.Topwithunsweetenedwhippedcream,andcoarselycrumbledbiscotti(ifyouhaveanyleft)orcrushedhazelnuts.

APPLESTRUDEL

StrudeldiMele

Thisfavoriteisdedicatedtomybrother,Franco,andmyson-in-law,Corrado.Ialwaysmakeitatafamilymealinthefall,whentheapplesareinseason,andIknowtheywillbothbethere.StrudelisaMiddleEuropeandessertthatisverycommoninthe

ItalianregionofFriuli–VeneziaGiuliaandonthepeninsulaofIstria,whereIgrewup.Butstrudelislovedeverywhere,especiallyatourrestaurantBecco,whereitisservedwarmwithvanillasauceandcinnamonicecream.Imakemanyvariationsonthetheme,sometimesbyaddingfreshcranberriesand/orsquashtotheapples.LikethestrudelrecipesinLidia’sFamilyTable,thatmakesitaveryseasonalThanksgivingtreat.

SERVES10

FORTHEDOUGH

2cupssiftedunbleachedall-purposeflour,plusmoreforkneadingthedough


½teaspoonsalt½cuplukewarmwater,orasneededFORTHEFILLING1cupgoldenraisins2tablespoonsdarkrum

1lemon

½cup(1stick)unsaltedbutter,softened,cutintotablespoons

1cupplaindrybreadcrumbs

1½cupsgranulatedsugar½teaspoongroundcinnamon3poundstartgreenapples,suchasGrannySmithOliveoilforthepanandbrushingthestrudelConfectioners’sugarfordusting

Inasmallbowl,tosstheraisinswiththerum.Letthemstand,tossingoccasionally,whilepreparingthestrudel.Tomakethedough:Combinetheflour,oil,andsaltintheworkbowlofafoodprocessor.Withthemotorrunning,add½cupwaterandprocessuntilthemixtureformsasmooth,silkydough.(Ifthemixtureistoodry,addmorewater,1tablespoonatatime.)Turnthedoughoutontoalightlyflouredsurfaceandknead,addingflourasnecessarytopreventthedoughfromsticking,untilthedoughisverysmoothandelastic,about3minutes.Wrapthedoughinplasticwrap,andletitrestatroomtemperaturefor2to3hoursorintherefrigeratorforupto2days.(Lettherefrigerateddoughsitatroomtemperatureforatleast1hourbeforerollingit.)Useafinegratertoremovethezestfromthelemon.Squeezethejuicefromthelemon,strainitifnecessary,andcombinethejuiceandzestinamedium-sizemixingbowl.Melthalfthebutterinamedium-sizeskilletovermediumheat.Addthebreadcrumbsandtoast,stirringconstantly,untillightlybrowned,about5minutes.Removetheskilletfromtheheat,andstirin½cupofthesugarandthecinnamon.

Addtheremainingcupofgranulatedsugarandtherumandraisinstothebowlwiththelemonjuiceandzest.Peeltheapples,andcuttheminto½-inch-thickwedges,cuttingawaytheseedsandcoresandaddingthewedgestothebowlofthelemon-sugarmixture(topreventthemfromdarkening).Lettheapplesstand,tossingoccasionally,untilthesugarbeginstodissolveandtheapplesarecoatedwiththesyrup.Preheattheovento450degreesFandbrushalargebakingpanwitholiveoil.Lightlyflouralarge,smoothwoodenormarblesurface.Usingarollingpin,rolloutthedoughfromthecentertotheedgesintoaverythinrectangle2feetby1½feet.Asitgetsthinner,youshouldbeabletopullandstretchitgentlywithyourhandstocoaxitintotheshapeyouwant.Don’tworryifthedoughtearsalittleinspots—youcanpatchitlater—orifitdoesn’tformaperfectrectangle.Turnthedoughsooneofthelongersidesisfacingyou.Undertheendofthedoughacrossfromyouplaceakitchentowelorlengthofdouble-thickcheeseclothundertheentiresideofthedoughrectangleandextendingabout4inchesbeyondit.(Thiswillhelpyoumovethestrudeltothebakingsheetonceitisformed.)Spreadthebreadcrumbmixtureevenlyoverthedough,leavingaclean1½-inch-wideborderonallsidesoftherectangle.Dotthebreadcrumbswithsmallpiecesoftheremaining¼cupofbutter.Arrangetheapplemixtureinalongmoundalongthesideclosesttoyou.Themoundofapplesshouldmeasureabout4incheswideandaslongasthebreadcrumbmixture,leavingthe1½-inch-wideborderclean.Foldthecleanborderclosesttoyouovertheapples.Beginrollingthestrudelintoafairlytightroll,startingatoneendoftheapplemound,givingitahalf-roll,andgraduallyworkingyourwaydowntheroll.Don’tworryiftherollisunevenortearsinplaces.Youshouldendupwithafairlyeven,lumpy-lookingrollthatiscentered,seamsidedown,onthekitchentowel.Usethetoweltotransferthestrudeltothepreparedbakingsheet,bendingthestrudelintoacrescentshapeifnecessarytofititonthepan.Cutoffanyexcessdoughfromtheends.Sealtheendsofthestrudelbyfoldingtheendsoftherollunderneathandpressingthemfirmlywithyourfingers.Brushthestrudellightlywitholiveoil,andplaceitinthe

oven;thenimmediatelyreducetheoventemperatureto375degreesF.Bake30minutes,untilthetopofthestrudelisalightgoldenbrown.(Ifit’sdeeperincolorthanthat,reducethetemperatureto350degreesF.)Rotatethebakingpanintheovensothestrudelcooksevenly,andcontinuetobakeuntilthestrudelcrustisdeepgoldenbrownandfirm,about30minutesmore.Removethestrudelfromtheoven,andletstanduntilcompletely

cooled.Toserve,cutthestrudelinto1-inch-thickslicesandsprinklethemwithconfectioners’sugar.

BLUEBERRYAPRICOTFRANGIPANETARTCrostatadiMirtilliedAlbiccochealFrangipaneAlmondsareafavoriteingredientinItalianbaking,andfrangipaneisabattermadeofalmond

flourthat,whenbakedinashellandstuddedwithblueberries,takesonthetextureofatartwithanalmondcustardholdingafruitcenter.Forthis

recipeyoucanbuyapricotglaze,buttomakeyourown,heatapricotjaminasmallsaucepanoverlowheat.Ifthejamischunky,addatablespoonor

twoofwater,andstrainbeforeusing.

MAKESONE10-INCHTART,SERVINGABOUT8

FORTHESHELL

1½cupsall-purposeflour¼cupsugar½teaspoonbakingpowderPinchofsalt½cup(1stick)unsaltedbutter,cutintocherry-sizepiecesandchilled

1largeeggyolk

Zestof1lemon,gratedIcewaterasneededFORTHEFILLING½cup(1stick)unsaltedbutter,softened,plusmoreforthepan⅓cupsugar

2largeeggs1cupalmondflour

1teaspoonvanillaextract

½cupapricotglaze

1cupfreshblueberries

½poundripeapricots,halvedandpitted,orone24-ouncecanapricothalves,drained

Maketheshell:Sifttheflour,sugar,bakingpowder,andsalttogetherintoabowl.Addthebutter,eggyolk,andlemonzest,andworktheingredientstogetherwithyourfingersuntilthebutterresemblescornflakesandisdistributedevenlythroughouttheflourmixture.Sprinkle3tablespoonsicewateroverthemixture,andtosslightlyjustuntilthedoughholdstogetherwhenlightlypressed.Ifnecessary,addalittlemoreicewater.Wrapthedoughinplasticwrap,andletrestintherefrigeratorfor1hour.Buttera10-inchtartpanwitharemovablebottom.Rolloutthedoughtoa12-inchcircleofeventhickness.Centerthedoughoverthetartpan,fitthedoughwellintotheedgeswithyourfingers,andtrimoffexcessoverhangingdough.Prickthebottomofthetartshellwithafork,andsetonabakingsheetinthefreezerfor10minutes.Meanwhile,preheattheovento350degreesF.Makethefilling:Withanelectricmixeratmediumspeed,creamthebutterwiththesugaruntilfluffy,about3minutes.Addtheeggsoneatatime,beatingwellaftereachaddition.Addthealmondflourandvanilla,andmixuntilasmoothbatterforms.Brushthetartshellwith¼cupofwarmapricotglaze,thenspreadtheblueberriesoverthebottom.Pourthealmond-flourmixtureovertheblueberries,andwithaspatulaspreaditevenly.Arrangetheapricothalvesoverthealmond-flourmixture,cutsidedown.Placethetartintheoven,andbakeuntilthealmond-flourmixtureandtheedgesofthetartshellaregoldenbrown,about40minutes.Letthetartcoolfor30minutes,thenbrushwiththeremaining¼cupwarmapricotglaze.

PLUMTARTCrostatadiPrugneIabsolutelyloveafruittart,anyfruittart;itismyfavoritedessert.Prunetartsinparticularappealtome—Grandmahadseveralplumtrees,whosefruitshedriedintoprunesforthewinter;driedorfresh,theywereoneofmyfavoritefruits.Butcertainlythiscrostatacanturnintoafavoriteforeveryseasonbychangingthefruit;cherries,peaches,apricots,

pears,andapplesareonlyafewoptions.

SERVES8

¼cupsmoothapricotjamOne10-inchtartshell,prebakedfor15minutes14firm,ripepurpleplums,halvedandpitted

2tablespoonssugar

½tablespoonwater¼tablespoonlemonjuice

Preheattheovento350degreesF.Brush3tablespoonsoftheapricotjamoverthebottomofthe

prebakedtartshell.Startingfromtheoutsideedgeoftheshell,arrangetheplumscutsideupinconcentriccirclesuntiltheshellisfilled.Bakethetart10minutes,sprinklethesugarovertheplums,andreturntotheovenforanadditional25to35minutesorlonger,dependingonthetextureoftheplums,untilthepastryisnicelybrownedandtheplumsarewellcooked.Ifthepastrygetsbrownbeforetheplumscook,coverwithfoilandcontinuetobakeuntilplumsaredone.Removefromtheovenandcool.Melttheremainingapricotjaminasmallsaucepan,stirringinthe

waterandlemonjuice.(Strainifthejamislumpy.)Whenthetarthascooledsomewhat,brushtheplumswiththeapricotglaze.Serveatroomtemperature.

RICOTTACHEESECAKETortadiRicottaCheesecakeisafavoriteineveryhousehold,buteventhemostdedicatedcheesecakeaficionadoshavetoadmitthatItalianricottacheesecakeissomethingspecial.Therecipeissimpleandbasic.Itisnotthecreamycream-cheesecakeyoumightbeusedto—ithasacrumblytextureandcanbeabitwetattimes—butitisthecheesecakeofthe

Italians.ThoughIloveservingitwarm,itisgoodcoldaswell.

SERVES8

3½cupsricotta½cupraisins

3tablespoonsdarkrum

Softenedbutterandfinedrybreadcrumbsforthepan5largeeggs,separated¾cupsugar

PinchofsaltZestof1largelemon,gratedZestof1largeorange,grated½cupheavycream½cuppinenuts

Placethericottainacheesecloth-linedsieve,andplacethesieveoverabowl.Coverthericottawithplasticwrap,andplaceintherefrigeratorforatleast8hoursandupto1day.Soaktheraisinsinruminasmallbowl,tossingoccasionally,untilthe

raisinsaresoftenedandhaveabsorbedmostoftherum,about30minutes.Brushan8-inchspringformpanwithenoughsoftenedbuttertocoatit

lightly.Sprinklethebreadcrumbsoverthebuttertocoatgenerously.Shakeouttheexcesscrumbs.Preheattheovento375degreesF.Beattheeggyolks,sugar,andsaltinalargebowlwithawhiskuntil

paleyellow.Addthedrainedricottaandthelemonandorangezest,andbeatuntilblendedthoroughly.Beatinthecream.Foldinthepinenuts,

andtheraisinsandrum,witharubberspatula,blendingwell.Beattheeggwhitesinaseparatebowlwithahandmixerorwirewhiskuntiltheyformfirmpeakswhenabeaterisliftedfromthem.Addaboutone-fourthoftheeggwhitestothericottamixture,andgentlystiritin.Addtheremainingeggwhites,andfoldthemin,usingalargerubberspatulatoscrapethebatterfromthebottomofthebowlupandoverthewhites.Pourthecakemixtureintothepreparedpan,andbakeuntilthecakeisgoldenbrownontopandsetinthecenter,about1hourand10minutes.Coolthecakecompletelybeforeremovingthesidesofthepan.Servethecakeatroomtemperatureorchilled.

CANNOLINAPOLEONSCannoloaStrati

Traditionalcannoliarecrispyfrieddoughcylindersstuffedwithricottacream.Thisversionismadewithdeep-frieddiscsofcannoli,stackedhighwithlayersofricottacreaminbetween,justlikeanapoleon.Itisamucheasiertechnique,fryingthediscsratherthanthetubularcannolishells,andthefinishedcannolitasteasgoodasthetraditionalversionbutlookquitecontemporary.

MAKES6TO8CANNOLINAPOLEONS

FORTHEPASTRYDOUGH

1½cupsall-purposeflour,plusmoreforrolling

2tablespoonsgranulatedsugar

¼teaspoonsalt2tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil

1teaspoonwhitevinegar

½cupdryredwine,orasneededFORTHECANNOLICREAM1pound(2cups)freshricotta⅔cupconfectioners’sugar,plusmorefordecoration1tablespoonGrandMarnier(optional,butverygood!)1ounceunsweetenedchocolate(or3tablespoonsbittersweetchips)

2tablespoonscandiedorangerind

2tablespoonsalmonds,toasted1cupvegetableoil,orasneededHoneyandgratedchocolatefordecoration

Tomakethedough:Puttheflour,granulatedsugar,andsaltinafood-processorbowl,andprocessjusttomix.Mixtheoliveoil,vinegar,andwinetogetherinameasuringcup,and,withthemachinerunning,pourallbut1tablespoonoftheliquidin;processfor20secondsorso,untiladoughgathersontheblade.Ifitfeelshardanddry,sprinkleintheremainingliquidandprocessbriefly,tomakeitmoistandmalleable.Turnthedoughoutofthebowl,scrapinganybitsfromthesidesandblade,andkneadbyhandintoasoft,smoothball.Flattentoadisc,wrapverytightlyinplastic,andrefrigerateforupto2days.Makethepastrydoughinthefoodprocessoradayortwo—oratleast4hours—inadvanceforthebesttexture.Tomakethecannolicream:Putthefreshricottainafine-meshedsieve,andsetitinsideabowltodrainfor12to24hoursinadvance.Coverthericottawithplasticwrap,andrefrigerate.Whipthericottawiththewhiskattachmentofanelectricmixeruntilsmooth.Whipintheconfectioners’sugarandGrandMarnier.Chopthechocolate(orchips)intocoarsebits—bigenoughtobiteintoandtobevisible.Coarselychopthecandiedpeelandalmondstothesamesize,aboutthesizeofraisins.Foldthechoppedpiecesintothecream;refrigerateuntilyouassemblethecannoli.Cutthepastrydoughinhalf.Onalightlyflouredsurface,rolloutonepieceofdoughtoarectangle11by14inches(orascloseaspossible).

Usearoundcookiecutterabout3inchesindiametertocutdiscs.Settheroundsaside,onalightlyflouredtray,torestfor15minutesbeforefrying.Meanwhile,rolloutandcuttheremaininghalfofthedoughthesameway.Tofrythepastry,pourvegetableoilintoaskillettoadepthof¼inch,andsetovermediumheat.Usethepointofasmall,sharpknifetopierceeachpastryroundabouttentimesalloveritssurface,asthoughyouweremakingpinpricksthroughthedough.(Thesetinyholeswillpreventthepastryfromballooningwhenfried.)Heattheoiluntiltheedgeofthedoughsizzlesgentlywhendippedintoit,thenlayinasmanyroundsasyoucan,2inchesapart.Raisetheheattokeeptheoiltemperatureup(butloweritassoonasthesizzlinggetstoofast).Frytheroundsforabout3minutesonthefirstside,pushingthemundertheoiloccasionallytoheatthetopsurface.Asthetopsbegintobubble,presswithtongstopreventbigbubblesfromballooning—smallbubblesareOK.Whenthebottomisgoldenbrown,fliptheroundsoverandfryuntilevenlycoloredandcrisponbothsides,about2moreminutes.Assoonasthey’redone,liftthemwithtongs,letexcessoildripoff,andlaythemtodrainonfoldedpapertowels.Fryalltheroundsthisway,addingoilasneededandheatingitbetweenbatches.Assembleyourcannolinapoleons:Setoneroundontheplate,dropabout1½tablespoonsofcannolicreaminthecenter,layanotherroundontop—sidesaligned—andpressgentlytospreadthecream.Droponanotherlayerofcream,coverwithathirdround,andpress.Finally,showerthetopofeachnapoleonwithconfectioners’sugarandembellishwithdrizzlesofhoneyorasprinkleoffinelygratedchocolateandserve.

CRÊPESWITHCHOCOLATEANDWALNUTS

Palacinke

Trulynodifferentfromcrespelleorcrêpes,palacinkeisthenameIfirstusedtoaskforthesedeliciousthinpancakes.Mymotherwouldwhipthemupfordinner;sheoftenservedthemwithonlyasprinkleofsugar,oradornedthemwithpreserveslikerose-hipjam,apricotmarmalade,orprunebutter.AsachildIlovedthemwithanyofthosefillings,butthemostluxurious—andalwaysourfavorite—werepalacinketoppedwithmeltedchocolate.Thisis,handsdown,thefavoritedessertofmygrandchildren.Theycanfill,roll,andeatthemfasterthanIcancookthem,andIusuallylosecount.

MAKESADOZENPALACINKE,SERVING6

2eggs2cupswater1tablespoondarkrum

1teaspoonvanillaextract

2tablespoonssugar,plusmoretosweetenwhippedcreamifdesired⅓teaspoonsalt

2cupsflour

8tablespoonsbutter,melted,ormoreasneededZestof2lemons,finelygrated10ouncesexcellentbittersweetorsemisweetchocolate(12ouncesormoreforextremechocolate-lovers)1cupheavycream,chilled1½cupswalnuts,toastedandcoarselychopped

Tomakethebatter,whisktogethertheeggs,water,rum,vanilla,sugar,andsaltinalargebowluntilwellblended.Sifttheflourontop,abitatatime,whiskingeachadditionuntilsmooth.Drizzleinhalfthemeltedbutter,whiskinguntilthebatterhasslightlythickenedintotheconsistencyofmeltedicecream.Finally,whiskinthelemonzest.Puttheremainingbutterinasmallcupandkeepitwarm.Breakorchopthechocolateintosmallpieces,andputthemabowlsetinapanofhot(notboiling)water.Whenthechocolatebeginstomelt,stiruntilcompletelysmooth,andkeepitwarm,inthewater,offtheheat.Setacrêpepanorskilletovermedium-highheatuntilquitehot.Pourinacoupletablespoonsofbutter,quicklyswirlitalloverthepanbottom,thenpourexcessbutterbackintothecup,leavingthebottomlightlycoatedwithsizzlingbutter.(Ifthebutterdoesn’tsizzle,heatthepanlongerbeforeaddingthebatter.)Immediatelyladleinascant⅓cupofbatter,tiltandswirlsoitcoatsthebottom,andsetthepanontheburner.Lowertheheattomedium,andcookthepalacinkaforalittlelessthanaminute,untiltheundersideislightlybrownedinalacypattern.Flipitoverwithaspatula,andfryfor30secondsorlonger,untilthesecondsideislightlybrowned,thenremoveittoawarmplatter.Heattheemptypanbriefly,thenrapidlycoatitwithbutter,fillitwithbatter,and

cookanotherpalacinka.Repeatthesequence,stackingupthefinishedpalacinkeontheplatter,untilallthebatterisusedup.Fillandservethepalacinkeassoonaspossible,whilefreshandwarm.Keeptheplatterinawarmspotandcoverthestackwithatentoffoiloralargebowlturnedupsidedown.Whiptheheavycream,unsweetenedorwithsugartotaste,tosoftpeaks.Stirthemeltedchocolate,andreheatitifnecessarysoitissmoothandwarm.Takeonepalacinkaoffthestackandplaceitwithitslacy-patternedsidedown.Spoonageneroustablespoon(ormore)ofwarmchocolateinthecenterofthepancake,andspreaditoverthepalacinka,leavinganinch-wideborderuncoated.Scatteraspoonfulofchoppedwalnutsonthechocolatelayer,thenfoldtheroundinhalf,hidingthefillings,andfoldagainintoaplumpquarter-round.Fillandfoldallthepalacinkethesameway.Foreachserving,placetworounds,overlapping,onadessertplate,heapsomewhippedcreamontop,scattersomenutsontopofthecream,anddrizzlewarmchocolateinstreaksandsquigglesoverthepalacinkeandtheplate.

LIMONCELLOTIRAMISÙ

TiramisùalLimoncello

Oneofthebestthingsabouttiramisùisitsversatility:thoughtheconventionalversioncallsforespresso-soakedsavoiardi(ladyfingers),I’vefoundthatotherflavorscanbeincorporatedintothedessertwithgreatsuccess.Herethebrightnessoffreshlemonsandlimoncellolacethecreamandsoakingsyrup,resultinginatiramisùthatisrefreshingandirresistible.Greatforlargergatherings,itisalwaysadessertofchoiceatourhouse.

MAKESA12-OR13-INCHTIRAMISÙ,SERVING12ORMORE

5or6lemons5largeeggs

1cupsugar

1½cupslimoncelloliqueur

1cupwater

1pound(2cups)mascarpone,atroomtemperature40ladyfingers(preferablyimportedItaliansavoiardi),ormoreasneeded

Removethezestof2ormoreofthelemons,usingafinegrater,toget2tablespoonsofzest.Squeezeoutandstrainthejuiceoftheseandtheotherlemonstoget¾cupoffreshlemonjuice.Pourjustenoughwaterintoadouble-boilerpansothewaterlevelisrightbelowthebottomofthemixingbowlwhenitissittinginthepan.Separatetheeggs,puttingyolksinthelargebowlofthedoubleboiler,andthewhitesinanotherstainless-steelbowl.Tomakethebaseforthetiramisù:Heatthewaterinthepantoasteadysimmer.Removethetopbowlfromheat,andbeattheeggyolkswith¼cupofthesugarand½cupofthelimoncellountilwellblended.Setthebowloverthesimmeringwater,andwhiskconstantly,frequentlyscrapingthewhiskaroundthesidesandbottomofthebowl,astheeggmixtureexpandsandheatsintoafrothysponge,5minutesorlonger.Whenthespongehasthickenedenoughtoformaribbonwhenitdropsonthesurface,takethebowloffthedouble-boilerpanandletitcool.Meanwhile,pourtheremainingcupoflimoncello,allofthelemonjuice,the1cupwater,and½cupofthesugarinasaucepan.Bringtoaboil,stirringtodissolvethesugar,andcookfor5minutes,evaporatingthealcohol.Letthesyrupcoolcompletely.Inanotherlargebowl,stirthemascarponewithawoodenspoontosoftenit,thendropinthegratedlemonzestandbeatwithawhiskuntillightandcreamy.Inanotherbowl,whiptheeggwhiteswiththeremaining¼cupsugaruntilitholdsmoderatelyfirmpeaks.Whenthecookedlimoncellozabaglioneiscooled,scrapeaboutathirdofitoverthemascarponeandfolditinwithalargerubberspatula.Foldintherestofthezabaglioneintwoorthreeadditions.Nowfoldinthewhippedeggwhitesinseveraladditions,untilthelimoncello-mascarponecreamislightandevenlyblended.Poursomeofthecooledsyrupintoapan,nodeeperthan¼inch,tomoistentheladyfingers.Oneatatime,rollaladyfingerinthesyrupand

quicklyplaceitina9-by-13-inchPyrexpan.Weteachcookiebriefly—ifitsoaksuptoomuchsyrup,itwillfallapart.Arrangethemoistenedladyfingersinneat,tightrowsinthepan,fillingthebottomofthepancompletely.Youshouldbeabletofitinabouttwentyladyfingersinasinglelayer.Scoophalfofthelimoncello-mascarponecreamontotheladyfingers,andsmoothittofillthepanandcoverthem.Dipandarrangeasecondlayerofladyfingersinthepan,andcoveritcompletelywiththeremainderofthecream.Smooththecreamwiththespatula,andsealthetiramisùairtightinplasticwrap.Beforeserving,refrigeratefor6hoursorupto2days,orputitinthefreezerfor2hours.Toserve,cutportionsoftiramisùinanysizeyoulike,andliftthemoutofthepanontodessertplates.

CHOCOLATEBREADPARFAIT

PanediCioccolatoalCucchiaio

Thisdessertrecallsformethechocolate-and-breadsandwichesthatweresometimesmylunch,andalwaysaspecialtreat.Howsimplebuthowdeliciousthosetwopiecesofbreadwithchocolateinbetweenwere.Thisisanotherinventivewaytorecycleleftoverbreadasthefoundationofanelegantlayereddessert.Thoughitissoakedwithchocolate-and-espressosauceandburiedinwhippedcream,thebreaddoesn’tdisintegrate,andprovidesagreattexturalcontrastineveryheavenlyspoonful.Evenwhenyouthinkyouhavenothinginthehousefordessert,thisisarecipeIamsureyoucanconjureup.Itisbestwhenservedimmediately,whilethemeltedchocolateisstillwarmandrunny.

SERVES6

8ouncesbittersweetorsemisweetchocolate,finelychopped8ouncescountry-stylewhitebread,crustsremoved½cupfreshlybrewedespresso2tablespoonsdarkrum

2tablespoonssugar

1½cupsheavycream,chilled1cupslicedalmonds,toasted

Putthechoppedchocolateinabowlsetinapanofhot(notboiling)water.Whenthechocolatebeginstomelt,stiruntilcompletelysmooth.Keepitwarm,overthewater,offtheheat.Slicethebreadinto½-inch-thickslices,andlaythemflatinonelayer,closetogether,onatrayorbakingsheet.Pourthewarmespressointoaspoutedmeasuringcup,stirintherumandsugaruntilthesugardissolves,andstirinhalfthemeltedchocolate.Pourthecoffee-rum-chocolatesaucealloverthebreadslices,thenflipthemoverandturnthemonthetray,tomakesureallthesurfacesarecoated.Letthebreadabsorbthesauceforafewminutes.Meanwhile,whipthecreamuntilsoftpeaksform.Toassembletheparfaits:Breakthesoakedbreadinto1-inchpieces.Usehalfthepiecestomakethebottomparfaitlayerinsixservingglasses,droppinganequalamountofchocolate-dippedbreadintoeach.Scrapeupsomeoftheunabsorbedchocolatesaucethatremainsonthebakingsheet,anddrizzleabitoverthebreadlayers.Drizzlesomeoftheremainingmeltedchocolateaswell.Next,dropalayerofwhippedcreamintotheglasses,usinguphalfthecream.Topthecreamlayerwithtoastedalmonds,usinghalfthenuts.Repeatwithanotherlayerofallingredients.Tofinish,dollopanotherlayerofwhippedcream,usingitallup,andsprinkleontheremainingalmondsanddrizzleremainingmeltedchocolateontopofeachparfait.

RICOTTACOOKIESBiscottidiRicottaIlovericottaalmostanywhere,butinparticularinthesemoistanddeliciouscookies.Iknowmymotherwillbereadytoeatsomeaswell—ricottaisherfavoritebyfar.Addingricottatobakedgoodslightensupthedessertandaddsthecomplexityofthesweetmilkcurdstothefinal

flavors.

MAKESABOUT3½DOZENCOOKIES

2¼cupsall-purposeflour

1teaspoonbakingpowder

Pinchofkoshersalt

1cupgranulatedsugar

½cup(1stick)butter,atroomtemperature

2largeeggs

8ouncesfreshricotta,drained½teaspoonvanillaextractZestof1lemon,finelygrated,plus¼cupfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice2cupsconfectioners’sugar,sifted

Preheatovento325degreesF.Sifttogetherflour,bakingpowder,andsaltintoabowl,andsetaside.Linetwocookiepanswithparchmentpaper.Creamthegranulatedsugarandbutterinamixerfittedwiththe

paddleattachmentathighspeeduntillightandfluffy,about2minutes.Reducethespeedtomedium,andcrackintheeggsoneatatime,beatingwellinbetweenadditions.Plopinthericotta,vanilla,andlemon

zest,andbeattocombine.Addtheflourmixtureandbeatatlowspeeduntiljustcombined;donotovermix.Dropthedoughinheapingtablespoonsontothesheetpans.Placeinovenandbake,rotatingpanshalfwaythroughthebakingtime,untilthecookiesarepuffed,golden,andcookedallthewaythrough,about20to22minutes.Remove,andcoolonwireracks.Whenthecookiesarecompletelycool,maketheglaze.Inabowl,whisktogethertheconfectioners’sugarandlemonjuicetomakeasmoothglaze.Adjusttheconsistencywithalittlewaterormoreconfectioners’sugartomakeaglazethickenoughtosticktothecookieswhendipped.Dipthetopsofthecookiesintheglaze,andletdryonracks.

ALMONDTORTAWITHCHOCOLATECHIPSTortadiMandorleconGoccediCioccolatoImustsaythatmyoriginalrecipewasforplainalmondcake,whichisafavoriteatourhouse,buthereIaddchocolatechips.Whodoesn’tlikechocolatechips?Youcanalsosubstitutedriedcranberries,driedcherries,orcurrantsinthisdeliciousbasicrecipe.Thisisparticularlygoodaccompaniedbywhippedcream,icecream,orzabaglione.Iadapteditfromonefavoritetoanother—so,really,it’sthe

perfectdishtoclosethiscollection.

MAKESA10-INCHCAKE,SERVING10ORMORE

1¾cupsall-purposeflour,plusmoreforthepan½teaspoonbakingpowder¼teaspoonkoshersalt10ounces(2½sticks)butter,softened,plusmoreforthepan1cupsugar

5largeeggs

Zestof1lemon,finelygrated(about2teaspoons)

1teaspoonpurealmondextract

2cupsalmondflouroralmondmeal

1cupsemisweetchocolatechips

½cupslicedblanchedalmonds,lightlytoastedConfectioners’sugar,fordusting

Arrangearackinthecenteroftheoven,andheatto350degreesF.Sifttogethertheall-purposeflour,bakingpowder,andsalt.Creamthe

butterandsugarinamixeratmedium-highspeeduntillightandfluffy,about2minutes.Beatintheeggs,oneatatime.Beatinthelemonzest

andalmondextract,thenraisethespeedtohighandbeatthebatteruntilverylight,aminuteormore.Atlowspeed,mixinhalfofthesiftedflourmixture,beatingjustuntilitisincorporated;beatinhalfthealmondflour.Scrapethebowl,andmixintheremainingall-purposeflourandremainingalmondflour.Beatbrieflyatmediumspeedtoasmoothbatter,then,againonlowspeed,mixinthechocolatechips,justuntilevenlydistributed.Scrapethebatterintoabutteredandfloured10-inchspringformpan,andspreaditinanevenlayer.Scattertheslicedalmondsalloverthetop.Bakethetortafor45minutes—rotatingthepanhalfwaythroughthebakingtime—oruntilthecakeisgoldenbrownontopandaknifeinsertedinthecentercomesoutclean.Coolthecakeinthepanforabout10minutesonawirerack.Runthebladeofaparingknifearoundtheedgeofthecake,thenopenthespringandremovethesidering.Coolthecakecompletelybeforeserving.Cutitintowedges,anddustwithconfectioners’sugar.

IndexLinksinitalicrefertoillustrations.

A

Agnello’ncip’nciape(LambStewwithOlives),8.1,8.2almond(s):ChocolateBreadParfait,9.1,9.2flour,inBlueberryApricotFrangipaneTart

PineNutCookiesTortawithChocolateChips

AlmondPineNutCookies(AmaretticonPinoli)AlmondTortawithChocolateChips(TortadiMandorleconGocce

diCioccolato)AmaretticonPinoli(AlmondPineNutCookies)

appetizersandhorsd’oeuvresBakedClamsOreganata(VongolaeRipienealForno)

Egg-BatteredZucchiniRoll-Ups(InvoltinidiZucchiniFritti),1.1,1.2

FriedMozzarellaSkewers(SpiediniallaRomana)GarlicBread(PaneStrofinatoall’Aglio)

RiceandZucchiniCrostata(TortadiRisoeZucchine),1.1,1.2,1.3

RiceBalls(ArancinidiRiso),1.1,1.2Shrimp“allaBuonavia”(ScampiallaBuonavia)StuffedTomatoes(PomodoriFarcitialForno)

StuffedVegetables(VerdureRipiene)seealsosalads;soups

apple(s):RoastedBeetandBeetGreensSaladwithGoatCheeseand,2.1,2.2

Strudel,9.1,9.2,9.3TomatoSauce,Spaghettiin

AppleStrudel(StrudeldiMele),9.1,9.2,9.3ApricotBlueberryFrangipaneTart

AragostaallaCatalana(LobsterSaladwithFreshTomatoes)AragostaFraDiavoloconSpaghetti(LobsterFraDiavolowith

Spaghetti)ArancinidiRiso(RiceBalls),1.1,1.2

ArrostodiMaialeallePrugne(RoastedLoinofPorkStuffedwithPrunes),8.1,8.2

ArtichokeandCelerySaladAsparagus,Onion,andEggSandwich(PaninoconFrittatadi

AsparagieCipolla)AsparagusandScallionSalad,2.1,2.2

B

BaconandRedCabbageSaladBakedClamsOreganata(VongoleRipienealForno)

BakedPolentaLayeredwithMushroomRagù(PolentaPasticciataaiFunghi),4.1,4.2

BakedStuffedShells(ConchiglieRipienealForno),4.1,4.2BarleyRisotto,VealOssobucowith,8.1,8.2

Barolo,BeefBraisedinbasil,inClassicPesto,5.1,5.2

Basil,PennewithCherryTomatoes,Mozzarellaand,4.1,4.2bean(s):Cannellini,BraisedSwissChardand,6.1,6.2favaorbabylima,inRisottowithVegetables,4.1,4.2

Minestrone,VegetarianorwithPork,2.1,2.2Mixed,andShrimpSalad

PastaandWhite,andEscaroleSoup

beefBraisedinBarolo

ItalianAmericanMeatSauceMeatloafwithRicotta

MeatSauceBolognesePan-SearedSteakwithPizzaiolaSauce

Rolls,Braised,8.1,8.2BeefBraisedinBarolo(StuffatoalBarolo)

Beer,Chickenin,8.1,8.2Beet,Roasted,andBeetGreensSaladwithApplesandGoat

Cheese,2.1,2.2BietolaePatate(SwissChardPotatoes)BiscottiChocolatePudding,9.1,9.2BiscottidiRicotta(RicottaCookies)

BisteccaallaPizzaiola(Pan-SearedSteakwithPizzaiolaSauce)BlueberryApricotFrangipaneTart(CrostatadiMirtillied

AlbiccochealFrangipane)BologneseMeatSauce

BraciolediManzo(BraisedBeefRolls),8.1,8.2BraisedBeefRolls(BraciolediManzo),8.1,8.2

BraisedPorkRibswithRigatoni(CostolettediMaialeBrasateconRigatoni),8.1,8.2

BraisedSwissChardandCannelliniBeans(ZiminodiBietoleeFagioli),6.1,6.2

bread:Chocolate,Parfait,9.1,9.2Garlic

Garlic,RubbedwithTomatoesGarlic,ToppedwithCheeseandTomatoSalad,1.1,1.2andTomatoSoup,2.1,2.2

BreadandTomatoSalad(Panzanella),1.1,1.2BreakfastSub,Sausage,Egg,andPeppersbroccoli,inRisottowithVegetables,4.1,4.2BroccoliRabe,ZitiwithSausageand,4.1,4.2

BrusselsSproutsBraisedwithVinegar(CavoliniBrasaticonAceto)BudinodiGianduia(ChocolateBiscottiPudding),9.1,9.2ButterandSageSauce(SalsadiBurroeSalvia),5.1,5.2

butternutsquash,inMarinatedWinterSquash,6.1,6.2

C

cabbage,inMinestrone,VegetarianorwithPork,2.1,2.2Cabbage,Red,andBaconSalad

Cacciatore,Chickencalamari:Grilled

SavorySeafoodStew,7.1,7.2SpaghettiwithScallops,Shrimpand,4.1,4.2CalamariallaGriglia(GrilledCalamari)

cannellinibeans:BraisedSwissChardand,6.1,6.2EscaroleandWhiteBeanSoup

Minestrone,VegetarianorwithPork,2.1,2.2PastaandBeans

ShrimpandMixedBeanSaladCannoliNapoleons(CannoloaStrati),9.1,9.2,9.3

CavoliniBrasaticonAceto(BrusselsSproutsBraisedwithVinegar)CeleryandArtichokeSalad(InsalatadiSedanoeCarciofi)

Cheese,GarlicBreadToppedwithCheesecake,Ricotta

chickeninBeer,8.1,8.2

BreastwithEggplantandFontinaCheeseCacciatore

Parmigiana,NewStyle,8.1,8.2andPotatoes,MyMother’s

Riceand,TraditionalScaloppineSaltimbocca,RomanStyle,withSautéedSpinachChickenBreastwithEggplantandFontinaCheese(Polloalla

Sorrentina)ChickenCacciatore(PolloallaCacciatore)

ChickeninBeer(PolloallaBirra),8.1,8.2ChickenParmigiana,NewStyle(PolloallaParmigiana),8.1,8.2chickpeas,inMinestrone,VegetarianorwithPork,2.1,2.2

chocolate:BiscottiPudding,9.1,9.2BreadParfait,9.1,9.2

Chips,AlmondTortawithCrêpeswithWalnutsand,9.1,9.2

ChocolateBiscottiPudding(BudinodiGianduia),9.1,9.2ChocolateBreadParfait(PanediCioccolatoalCucchialo),9.1,9.2

ClamSauce,Red,Vermicelliwith,4.1,4.2ClamsOreganata,Baked

ConchiglieconPisellieFunghi(ShellswithYoungPeasandMushrooms)

ConchiglieRipienealForno(BakedStuffedShells),4.1,4.2cookies:AlmondPineNut

RicottaCostoletteallaFontina(VealChopswithFontina)

CostolettediMaialeBrasateconRigatoni(BraisedPorkRibswithRigatoni),8.1,8.2

cranberrybeans,inShrimpandMixedBeanSaladCreamyRicewith“Piglet”Mushrooms(RisottoconPorcini)CrêpeswithChocolateandWalnuts(Palacinke),9.1,9.2

Crostata,RiceandZucchini,1.1,1.2,1.3CrostatadiMirtilliedAlbiccochealFrangipane(BlueberryApricot

FrangipaneTart)CrostatadiPrugne(PlumTart)

D

dessertsAlmondPineNutCookies(AmaretticonPinoli)

AlmondTortawithChocolateChips(TortadiMandorlecon

GoccediCioccolato)AppleStrudel(StrudeldiMele),9.1,9.2,9.3

BlueberryApricotFrangipaneTart(CrostatadiMirtilliedAlbiccochealFrangipane)

CannoliNapoleons(CannoloaStrati),9.1,9.2,9.3ChocolateBiscottiPudding(BudinodiGianduia),9.1,9.2

ChocolateBreadParfait(PanediCioccolatoalCucchialo),9.1,9.2

CrêpeswithChocolateandWalnuts(Palacinke),9.1,9.2LimoncelloTiramisù(TiramisùalLimoncello),9.1,9.2

PlumTart(CrostatadiPrugne)RicottaCheesecake(TortadiRicotta)RicottaCookies(BiscottidiRicotta)

RoastedPearsandGrapes(PereeUvaalForno)

E

egg:Asparagus,andOnionSandwich-BatteredZucchiniRoll-Ups,1.1,1.2Sausage,andPeppersBreakfastSub

Egg-BatteredZucchiniRoll-Ups(InvoltinidiZucchiniFritti),1.1,1.2

eggplant:ChickenBreastwithFontinaCheeseandParmigiana,6.1,6.2

Roasted,ZitiwithRicottaCheeseand,4.1,4.2EggplantParmigiana(MelanzaneallaParmigiana),6.1,6.2

escarole:SmotheredWeddingSoup

andWhiteBeanSoupEscaroleandWhiteBeanSoup(ZuppadiScarolaeCannellini)

F

favabeans:RisottowithVegetables,4.1,4.2ShrimpandMixedBeanSalad

fennel:SausageswithOlivesand,8.1,8.2WeddingSoup

ZitiwithSausage,Onionsand,4.1,4.2FilettodiSogliolaalLimone(SoleMeunière),7.1,7.2

fish,seeseafoodFontina,VealChopswith

FontinaCheese,ChickenBreastwithEggplantandFrangipaneTart,BlueberryApricot

FriedMozzarellaSkewers(SpiediniallaRomana)

G

GamberoniallaBuzara(ShrimpBuzaraStyle),7.1,7.2garlic:Bread

BreadRubbedwithTomatoesBreadToppedwithCheeseSpaghettiniwithOiland

TomatoSauce,Quick,SpaghettiwithGarlicBread(PaneStrofinatoall’Aglio)Gnocchi,Potato(GnocchidiPatate)

GnocchiwithGorgonzolaandPeas(GnocchiconPisellieGorgonzola)

GoatCheese,RoastedBeetandBeetGreensSaladwithApplesand,2.1,2.2

Gorgonzola,GnocchiwithPeasandGrapesandPears,Roasted

Gremolata

GrilledCalamari(CalamariallaGriglia)

H

horsd’oeuvres,seeappetizersandhorsd’oeuvres

I

ImpastoperlaPizza(PizzaDough)InsalatadiBarbabietoleconMeleeFormaggioCaprino(RoastedBeetandBeetGreensSaladwithApplesandGoatCheese),2.1,

2.2InsalatadiCavoloRossoePancetta(RedCabbageandBacon

Salad)InsalatadiGamberieFagioliMisti(ShrimpandMixedBean

Salad)InsalatadiPolipoePatate(OctopusandPotatoSalad),1.1,1.2InsalatadiScalognoeAsparagi(ScallionandAsparagusSalad),

2.1,2.2InsalatadiSedanoeCarciofi(CeleryandArtichokeSalad)

InvoltinidiZucchiniFritti(Egg-BatteredZucchiniRoll-Ups),1.1,1.2

ItalianAmericanMeatSauce(SugodiCarne)

L

ladyfingers,inLimoncelloTiramisù,9.1,9.2LambStewwithOlives(Agnello’ncip’nciape),8.1,8.2

lemons,inLimoncelloTiramisù,9.1,9.2limabeans,baby,inRisottowithVegetables,4.1,4.2

LimoncelloTiramisù(TiramisùalLimoncello),9.1,9.2lobster:FraDiavolowithSpaghetti

SaladwithFreshTomatoesinZestyTomatoSauce

LobsterFraDiavolowithSpaghetti(AragostaFraDiavoloconSpaghetti)

LobsterinZestyTomatoSauce(AragostainBrodetto)LobsterSaladwithFreshTomatoes(AragostaallaCatalana)

M

MarinaraSauce(SalsaMarinara)MarinatedWinterSquash(ZuccaGiallaMarinata),6.1,6.2

mascarpone,inLimoncelloTiramisù,9.1,9.2meatballs,inWeddingSoupMeatballs,Spaghettiand

MeatloafwithRicotta(PolpettonediManzoconRicotta)meats,seepoultryandmeatsMeatSauce,ItalianAmerican

MeatSauceBolognese(SugoallaBolognese)MelanzaneallaParmigiana(EggplantParmigiana),6.1,6.2

MinestradiRisoePatate(RiceandPotatoSoup)MinestraMaritata(WeddingSoup)

Minestrone,VegetarianorwithPork(MinestroneVegetarianooconMaiale),2.1,2.2

mozzarella:BakedStuffedShells,4.1,4.2PennewithCherryTomatoes,Basiland,4.1,4.2

PizzaMargheritaSkewers,Fried

StuffedTomatoesmushroom(s):ChickenCacciatore

“Piglet,”CreamyRicewith

RagùRagù,BakedPolentaLayeredwith,4.1,4.2

StuffedVegetablesWild,Sauce,Tagliatellewith

MushroomRagù(RagùdiFunghiMisti)mussels,inSavorySeafoodStew,7.1,7.2

MyMother’sChickenandPotatoes(PolloePatatedellaMamma)

N

Napoleons,Cannoli,9.1,9.2,9.3

O

OctopusandPotatoSalad(InsalatadiPolipoePatate),1.1,1.2Oil,SpaghettiniwithGarlicand

OliveOilMashedPotatoes(PurediPatateall’Olio),6.1,6.2Olives,LambStewwith,8.1,8.2

Olives,SausageswithFenneland,8.1,8.2onion(s):Asparagus,andEggSandwich

StuffedVegetablesZitiwithSausage,Fenneland,4.1,4.2

OssobucodiVitelloconRisottod’Orzo(VealOssobucowithBarleyRisotto),8.1,8.2

P

PagliaeFieno(StrawandHay),4.1,4.2Palacinke(CrêpeswithChocolateandWalnuts),9.1,9.2

PanediCioccolatoalCucchialo(ChocolateBreadParfait),9.1,9.2

PaneStrofinatoall’Aglio(GarlicBread)PaninoconFrittatadiAsparagieCipolla(Asparagus,Onion,and

EggSandwich)PaninoconFrittatadiPeperonieSalsiccia(Sausage,Egg,and

PeppersBreakfastSub)Pan-SearedSteakwithPizzaiolaSauce(BisteccaallaPizzaiola)

Panzanella(BreadandTomatoSalad),1.1,1.2PappaalPomodoro(TomatoandBreadSoup),2.1,2.2

Parfait,ChocolateBread,9.1,9.2Parmigiana:Chicken,NewStyle,8.1,8.2

Eggplant,6.1,6.2pasta

BakedStuffedShells(ConchiglieRipienealForno),4.1,4.2BasicPotatoGnocchi(GnocchidiPatate)

andBeans(PastaeFagioli)BraisedPorkRibswithRigatoni(CostolettediMaialeBrasate

conRigatoni),8.1,8.2GnocchiwithGorgonzolaandPeas(GnocchiconPisellie

Gorgonzola)LobsterFraDiavolowithSpaghetti(AragostaFraDiavolocon

Spaghetti)PennewithCherryTomatoes,Basil,andMozzarella(Pennealla

CapreseinCrudo),4.1,4.2ShellswithYoungPeasandMushrooms(ConchiglieconPiselli

eFunghi)SpaghettiandMeatballs(SpaghetticonPolpettediCarne)SpaghettiandPestoTrapanese(PestoallaTrapanese)SpaghettiinTomatoAppleSauce(SpaghettialSugodi

PomodoroeMele)SpaghettiniwithOilandGarlic(SpaghettiniAglioeOlio)

SpaghettiwithCalamari,Scallops,andShrimp(SpaghettidiTornola),4.1,4.2

SpaghettiwithQuickGarlic-TomatoSauce(Spaghettialla

Salsettad’AglioVeloce)StrawandHay(PagliaeFieno),4.1,4.2

TagliatellewithWildMushroomSauce(TagliatelleconSalsadiFunghi)

VermicelliwithRedClamSauce(VermicelliconleVongoleSalsaRossa),4.1,4.2

ZitiwithBroccoliRabeandSausage(ZiticonBroccolidiRapeeSalsicce),4.1,4.2

ZitiwithRoastedEggplantandRicottaCheese(ZitiallaNorma),4.1,4.2

ZitiwithSausage,Onions,andFennel(ZiticonSalsicce,Cipolla,eFinocchio),4.1,4.2seealsosauces

PastaeFagioli(PastaandBeans)PearsandGrapes,Roasted

Peas,GnocchiwithGorgonzolaandpeas,inStrawandHay,4.1,4.2

PennewithCherryTomatoes,Basil,andMozzarella(PenneallaCapreseinCrudo),4.1,4.2

peppers:Pan-SearedSteakwithPizzaiolaSauceSausage,andEggBreakfastSub

SausageandStuffedVegetables

PereeUvaalForno(RoastedPearsandGrapes)PestoallaGenovese(ClassicPesto),5.1,5.2

PestoallaTrapanese(SpaghettiandPestoTrapanese)PineNutAlmondCookies

PizzaDough(ImpastoperlaPizza)PizzaiolaSauce,Pan-SearedSteakwithPizzaMargherita(PizzaMargherita)

pizzastonesPlumTart(CrostatadiPrugne)

polenta

baking,grilling,orpan-fryingBasic

LayeredwithMushroomRagù,Baked,4.1,4.2Polenta(BasicPolenta)

PolentaPasticciataaiFunghi(BakedPolentaLayeredwithMushroomRagù),4.1,4.2

PolloallaBirra(ChickeninBeer),8.1,8.2PolloallaCacciatore(ChickenCacciatore)

PolloallaParmigiana(ChickenParmigiana,NewStyle),8.1,8.2PolloallaSorrentina(ChickenBreastwithEggplantandFontina

Cheese)PolloePatatedellaMamma(MyMother’sChickenandPotatoes)

PolpettonediManzoconRicotta(MeatloafwithRicotta)PomodoriFarcitialForno(StuffedTomatoes)

porcini,inCreamyRicewith“Piglet”Mushroomspork

ItalianAmericanMeatSauceMeatSauceBolognese

Minestronewith,2.1,2.2Ribs,Braised,withRigatoni,8.1,8.2

RoastedLoinof,StuffedwithPrunes,8.1,8.2ScaloppineSaltimbocca,RomanStyle,withSautéedSpinach

potato(es):Chickenand,MyMother’sGnocchi,Basic

GnocchiwithGorgonzolaandPeasandOctopusSalad,1.1,1.2OliveOilMashed,6.1,6.2

andRiceSoupSwissChard

PotatoGnocchi(GnocchidiPatate)poultryandmeats

BeefBraisedinBarolo(StuffatoalBarolo)BraisedBeefRolls(BraciolediManzo),8.1,8.2

BraisedPorkRibswithRigatoni(CostolettediMaialeBrasateconRigatoni),8.1,8.2

ChickenBreastwithEggplantandFontinaCheese(PolloallaSorrentina)

ChickenCacciatore(PolloallaCacciatore)ChickeninBeer(PolloallaBirra),8.1,8.2

ChickenParmigiana,NewStyle(PolloallaParmigiana),8.1,8.2LambStewwithOlives(Agnello’ncip’nciape),8.1,8.2MeatloafwithRicotta(PolpettonediManzoconRicotta)MyMother’sChickenandPotatoes(PolloePatatedella

Mamma)Pan-SearedSteakwithPizzaiolaSauce(BisteccaallaPizzaiola)RoastedLoinofPorkStuffedwithPrunes(ArrostodiMaialealle

Prugne),8.1,8.2SausageandPeppers(SalsicciaconPeperoni)

SausageswithFennelandOlives(SalsicceconFinocchioeOlive),8.1,8.2

ScaloppineSaltimbocca,RomanStyle,withSautéedSpinach(SaltimboccaallaRomana,conSpinaciSaltati)

VealChopswithFontina(CostoletteallaFontina)VealOssobucowithBarleyRisotto(OssobucodiVitellocon

Risottod’Orzo),8.1,8.2prosciutto,inRiceBalls,1.1,1.2

Prunes,RoastedLoinofPorkStuffedwith,8.1,8.2Pudding,ChocolateBiscotti,9.1,9.2

PurediPatateall’Olio(OliveOilMashedPotatoes),6.1,6.2

R

RawSummerTomatoSauceforPasta(SalsaCrudadiPomodoro),5.1,5.2

RedCabbageandBaconSalad(InsalatadiCavoloRossoe

Pancetta)Ribs,BraisedPork,withRigatoni,8.1,8.2

riceBalls,1.1,1.2

andChicken,TraditionalCreamy,with“Piglet”Mushrooms

withFreshSageandPotatoSoupRisotto,Basic

RisottowithVegetables,4.1,4.2StuffedTomatoes

andZucchiniCrostata,1.1,1.2,1.3RiceandPotatoSoup(MinestradiRisoePatate)

RiceandZucchiniCrostata(TortadiRisoeZucchine),1.1,1.2,1.3RiceBalls(ArancinidiRiso),1.1,1.2RicewithFreshSage(RisoeSalvia)ricotta:BakedStuffedShells,4.1,4.2

CannoliNapoleons,9.1,9.2,9.3Cheesecake(TortadiRicotta)

CookiesMeatloafwith

ZitiwithRoastedEggplantand,4.1,4.2RicottaCheesecake(TortadiRicotta)RicottaCookies(BiscottidiRicotta)

Rigatoni,BraisedPorkRibswith,8.1,8.2RisoallaPitocca(TraditionalRiceandChicken)

RisoeSalvia(RicewithFreshSage)risotto:Barley,VealOssobucowith,8.1,8.2

BasicCreamyRicewith“Piglet”Mushrooms

withVegetables,4.1,4.2Risotto(BasicRisotto)

RisottoconPorcini(CreamyRicewith“Piglet”Mushrooms)

RisottoconVerdure(RisottowithVegetables),4.1,4.2RoastedBeetandBeetGreensSaladwithApplesandGoatCheese

(InsalatadiBarbabietoleconMeleeFormaggioCaprino),2.1,2.2

RoastedLoinofPorkStuffedwithPrunes(ArrostodiMaialeallePrugne),8.1,8.2

RoastedPearsandGrapes(PereeUvaalForno)

S

Sage,Fresh,RicewithSageandButterSauce,5.1,5.2

saladsBreadandTomato(Panzanella),1.1,1.2

CeleryandArtichoke(InsalatadiSedanoeCarciofi)Lobster,withFreshTomatoes(AragostaallaCatalana)

OctopusandPotato(InsalatadiPolipoePatate),1.1,1.2RedCabbageandBacon(InsalatadiCavoloRossoePancetta)RoastedBeetandBeetGreens,withApplesandGoatCheese(InsalatadiBarbabietoleconMeleeFormaggioCaprino),2.1,

2.2ScallionandAsparagus(InsalatadiScalognoeAsparagi),2.1,

2.2ShrimpandMixedBean(InsalatadiGamberieFagioliMisti)

SalsaCrudadiPomodoro(RawSummerTomatoSauceforPasta),5.1,5.2

SalsadiBurroeSalvia(ButterandSageSauce),5.1,5.2SalsadiPomodoro(TomatoSauce)SalsaMarinara(MarinaraSauce)

SalsicceconFinocchioeOlive(SausageswithFennelandOlives),8.1,8.2

SalsicciaconPeperoni(SausageandPeppers)

SaltimboccaallaRomana,conSpinaciSaltati(ScaloppineSaltimbocca,RomanStyle,withSautéedSpinach)

sandwiches:Asparagus,Onion,andEgg(PaninoconFrittatadiAsparagieCipolla)

Sausage,Egg,andPeppersBreakfastSub(PaninoconFrittatadiPeperonieSalsiccia)

saucesButterandSage(SalsadiBurroeSalvia),5.1,5.2

Marinara(SalsaMarinara)Meat,Bolognese(SugoallaBolognese)Meat,ItalianAmerican(SugodiCarne)MushroomRagù(RagùdiFunghiMisti)

Pesto,Classic(PestoallaGenovese),5.1,5.2PestoTrapanese(PestoallaTrapanese)

QuickGarlic-Tomato(Salsettad’AglioVeloce)RawSummerTomato,forPasta(SalsaCrudadiPomodoro),

5.1,5.2Tomato(SalsadiPomodoro)

TomatoApple(SugodiPomodoroeMele)sausage(s):Egg,andPeppersBreakfastSub

withFennelandOlives,8.1,8.2meatballs,inWeddingSoup

andPeppersZitiwithBroccoliRabeand,4.1,4.2ZitiwithOnions,Fenneland,4.1,4.2

Sausage,Egg,andPeppersBreakfastSub(PaninoconFrittatadiPeperonieSalsiccia)

SausageandPeppers(SalsicciaconPeperoni)SausageswithFennelandOlives(SalsicceconFinocchioeOlive),

8.1,8.2SavorySeafoodStew(ZuppadiPesce),7.1,7.2

ScallionandAsparagusSalad(InsalatadiScalognoeAsparagi),2.1,2.2

scallops,inSavorySeafoodStew,7.1,7.2Scallops,SpaghettiwithCalamari,Shrimpand,4.1,4.2

ScaloppineSaltimbocca,RomanStyle,withSautéedSpinach(SaltimboccaallaRomana,conSpinaciSaltati)Scampi(ShrimpPreparedintheScampiStyle)ScampiallaBuonavia(Shrimp“allaBuonavia”)

ScarolaAffogata(SmotheredEscarole)seafood

BakedClamsOreganata(VongoleRipienealForno)GrilledCalamari(CalamariallaGriglia)

LobsterFraDiavolowithSpaghetti(AragostaFraDiavoloconSpaghetti)

LobsterinZestyTomatoSauce(AragostainBrodetto)LobsterSaladwithFreshTomatoes(AragostaallaCatalana)

OctopusandPotatoSalad(InsalatadiPolipoePatate),1.1,1.2SavorySeafoodStew(ZuppadiPesce),7.1,7.2Shrimp“allaBuonavia”(ScampiallaBuonavia)

ShrimpandMixedBeanSalad(InsalatadiGamberieFagioliMisti)

ShrimpBuzaraStyle(GamberoniallaBuzara),7.1,7.2ShrimpPreparedintheScampiStyle(Scampi)

SoleMeunière(FilettodiSogliolaalLimone),7.1,7.2VermicelliwithRedClamSauce(VermicelliconleVongoleSalsa

Rossa),4.1,4.2Shells,BakedStuffed,4.1,4.2

ShellswithYoungPeasandMushrooms(ConchiglieconPisellieFunghi)

shrimp:“allaBuonavia”BuzaraStyle,7.1,7.2andMixedBeanSalad

PreparedintheScampiStyleSavorySeafoodStew,7.1,7.2

SpaghettiwithCalamari,Scallopsand,4.1,4.2

Shrimp“allaBuonavia”(ScampiallaBuonavia)ShrimpandMixedBeanSalad(InsalatadiGamberieFagioli

Misti)ShrimpBuzaraStyle(GamberoniallaBuzara),7.1,7.2

ShrimpPreparedintheScampiStyle(Scampi)sidesandvegetables

BarleyRisotto(Risottod’Orzo),8.1,8.2BraisedSwissChardandCannelliniBeans(ZiminodiBietolee

Fagioli),6.1,6.2BrusselsSproutsBraisedwithVinegar(CavoliniBrasaticon

Aceto)Egg-BatteredZucchiniRoll-Ups(InvoltinidiZucchiniFritti),

1.1,1.2EggplantParmigiana(MelanzaneallaParmigiana),6.1,6.2MarinatedWinterSquash(ZuccaGiallaMarinata),6.1,6.2OliveOilMashedPotatoes(PurediPatateall’Olio),6.1,6.2RedCabbageandBaconSalad(InsalatadiCavoloRossoe

Pancetta)RicewithFreshSage(RisoeSalvia)SautéedSpinach(SpinaciSaltati)

ScallionandAsparagusSalad(InsalatadiScalognoeAsparagi),2.1,2.2

SmotheredEscarole(ScarolaAffogata)StuffedTomatoes(PomodoriFarcitialForno)

SwissChardPotatoes(BietolaePatate)SmotheredEscarole(ScarolaAffogata)

SoleMeunière(FilettodiSogliolaalLimone),7.1,7.2soups

EscaroleandWhiteBean(ZuppadiScarolaeCannellini)Minestrone,VegetarianorwithPork(MinestroneVegetarianoo

conMaiale),2.1,2.2PastaandBeans(PastaeFagioli)

RiceandPotato(MinestradiRisoePatate)

TomatoandBread(PappaalPomodoro),2.1,2.2Wedding(MinestraMaritata)

spaghetti:withCalamari,Scallops,andShrimp,4.1,4.2LobsterFraDiavolowith

andMeatballsandPestoTrapanese

withQuickGarlic-TomatoSauceinTomatoAppleSauce

SpaghettiallaSalsettad’AglioVeloce(SpaghettiwithQuickGarlic-TomatoSauce)

SpaghettialSugodiPomodoroeMele(SpaghettiinTomatoAppleSauce)

SpaghetticonPolpettediCarne(SpaghettiandMeatballs)SpaghettidiTornola(SpaghettiwithCalamari,Scallops,and

Shrimp),4.1,4.2SpaghettiniAglioeOlio(SpaghettiniwithOilandGarlic)spareribs,inBraisedPorkRibswithRigatoni,8.1,8.2SpiediniallaRomana(FriedMozzarellaSkewers)

Spinach,SautéedSquash,Winter,Marinated,6.1,6.2

Steak,Pan-Seared,withPizzaiolaSaucestews:Lamb,withOlives,8.1,8.2

Seafood,Savory,7.1,7.2StrawandHay(PagliaeFieno),4.1,4.2

StrudeldiMele(AppleStrudel),9.1,9.2,9.3StuffatoalBarolo(BeefBraisedinBarolo)

StuffedTomatoes(PomodoriFarcitialForno)StuffedVegetables(VerdureRipiene)

SugoallaBolognese(MeatSauceBolognese)SugodiCarne(ItalianAmericanMeatSauce)

Swisschard:Braised,andCannelliniBeans,6.1,6.2Potatoes

WeddingSoup

SwissChardPotatoes(BietolaePatate)

T

TagliatellewithWildMushroomSauce(TagliatelleconSalsadiFunghi)

tarts:BlueberryApricotFrangipanePlum,9.1

RiceandZucchiniCrostata,1.1,1.2,1.3Tiramisù,Limoncello(TiramisùalLimoncello),9.1,9.2

tomato(es):andBreadSalad,1.1,1.2andBreadSoup,2.1,2.2

Cherry,PennewithBasil,Mozzarellaand,4.1,4.2GarlicBreadRubbedwith

StuffedVegetablesTomatoandBreadSoup(PappaalPomodoro),2.1,2.2

TomatoSauce(SalsadiPomodoro)tomatosauces:Apple

Garlic,QuickMarinara

Meat,BologneseMeat,ItalianAmerican

Raw,forPasta,Summer,5.1,5.2Zesty,Lobsterin

TortadiMandorleconGoccediCioccolato(AlmondTortawithChocolateChips)

TortadiRicotta(RicottaCheesecake)TortadiRisoeZucchine(RiceandZucchiniCrostata),1.1,1.2,1.3

TraditionalRiceandChicken(RisoallaPitocca)

V

vealChopswithFontina

OssobucowithBarleyRisotto,8.1,8.2ScaloppineSaltimbocca,RomanStyle,withSautéedSpinach

VealChopswithFontina(CostoletteallaFontina)VealOssobucowithBarleyRisotto(OssobucodiVitelloconRisotto

d’Orzo),8.1,8.2vegetables:Risottowith,4.1,4.2

Stuffedseealsosidesandvegetables

VerdureRipiene(StuffedVegetables)VermicelliwithRedClamSauce(VermicelliconleVongoleSalsa

Rossa),4.1,4.2VongoleRipienealForno(BakedClamsOreganata)

W

Walnuts,CrêpeswithChocolateand,9.1,9.2WeddingSoup(MinestraMaritata)

whitebean(s):Cannellini,BraisedSwissChardand,6.1,6.2andEscaroleSoup

Minestrone,VegetarianorwithPork,2.1,2.2PastaandBeans

ShrimpandMixedBeanSaladWinterSquash,Marinated,6.1,6.2

Z

ZiminodiBietoleeFagioli(BraisedSwissChardandCannelliniBeans),6.1,6.2

ziti:withBroccoliRabeandSausage,4.1,4.2

withRoastedEggplantandRicottaCheese,4.1,4.2withSausage,Onions,andFennel,4.1,4.2

ZitiallaNorma(ZitiwithRoastedEggplantandRicottaCheese),4.1,4.2

ZiticonBroccolidiRapeeSalsicce(ZitiwithBroccoliRabeandSausage),4.1,4.2

ZiticonSalsicce,Cipolla,eFinocchio(ZitiwithSausage,Onions,andFennel),4.1,4.2

ZuccaGiallaMarinata(MarinatedWinterSquash),6.1,6.2zucchini:Minestrone,VegetarianorwithPork,2.1,2.2

andRiceCrostata,1.1,1.2,1.3Roll-Ups,Egg-Battered,1.1,1.2

StuffedVegetablesWeddingSoup

ZuppadiPesce(SavorySeafoodStew),7.1,7.2ZuppadiScarolaeCannellini(EscaroleandWhiteBeanSoup)

ANoteAbouttheAuthorsLidiaMatticchioBastianichwasborninPula,Istria,andcametotheUnitedStatesin1958.Sheopenedherfirstrestaurant,Buonavia,inQueens,in1971andasecondrestaurant,VillaSecondo,shortlythereafter.TheirtremendoussuccessinspiredhertolaunchFelidiain1981inManhattan,

followedbyBecco,Esca,DelPosto,andEataly(alsoinNewYork),andLidia’sinKansasCityandPittsburgh.ShehasdevelopedalineofLidia’sPastaandLidia’sSauces,availableacrossthe

UnitedStates.LidiaBastianichistheauthorofeightpreviousbooks:LaCucina

diLidia,Lidia’sItalianTable,Lidia’sItalian-AmericanKitchen,Lidia’sFamilyTable,Lidia’sItaly,LidiaCooksfromtheHeartofItaly,andLidia’sItalyinAmerica(thelastthreewithTanyaBastianichManuali)andherchildren’sbook,NonnaTellMeaStory.Shehasalsobeenthehostofseveralpublic-televisionseries—Lidia’sItalianTable,Lidia’sItalian-AmericanKitchen,Lidia’sFamilyTable,Lidia’sItaly,Lidia’sItalyinAmerica,andLidiaCelebratesAmerica—andshegiveslecturesonItaliancuisineacrossthecountry.Lidiaalsohasdevelopedaveryinteractivewebsite,www.lidiasitaly.com,whereshesharesdailyrecipes,pictures,informationaboutseasonalproducts,tips,andpersonalstories.ShelivesonLongIsland.

TanyaBastianichManuali’svisitstoItalyasachildsparkedherpassionforthecountry’sartandculture.ShededicatedherselftothestudyofItalianRenaissanceartduringhercollegeyearsatGeorgetownandearnedamaster’sdegreefromSyracuseUniversityandadoctoratefromOxfordUniversity.LivingandstudyinginmanyregionsofItalyforsevenyears,shetaughtarthistorytoAmericanstudentsinFlorence,andalsometherhusband,CorradoManuali,fromRome.Tanyaco-created,withShellyBurgessNicotra,EsperienzeItaliane,acustom-tourcompanydevotedtothediscoveryofItalianfood,wine,andart.

http://www.lidiasitaly.com

TanyaisintegrallyinvolvedintheproductionofLidia’spublic-televisionseriesandisactivedailyinthefamilyrestaurantbusiness.Shehasalsoledthedevelopmentofthewebsite,www.lidiasitaly.com,andrelatedpublicationsandmerchandiselinesfortabletopandcooking.Tanyahasco-authoredthreepreviousbookswithhermother:Lidia’sItaly,LidiaCooksfromtheHeartofItaly,andLidia’sItalyinAmerica.In2010,Tanyaco-authoredReflectionsoftheBreast:BreastCancerinArtThroughtheAges,asocial-art-historicallookatbreastcancerinartfromAncientEgypttotoday.TanyaandCorradoliveinNewYorkCitywiththeirchildren,LorenzoandJulia.

http://www.lidiasitaly.com

AlsobyLidiaMatticchioBastianich

Lidia’sItalyinAmerica

NonnaTellMeaStory:Lidia’sChristmasKitchen

LidiaCooksfromtheHeartofItaly

Lidia’sItaly

Lidia’sFamilyTable

Lidia’sItalian-AmericanKitchen

Lidia’sItalianTable

LaCucinadiLidia

lidia's favorite recipes: 100 foolproof italian dishes, from basic sauces to irresistible...

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