level 1: foundation: pattern & garment construction 1 ... · pattern & garment construction...

LEVEL 1:

PATTERN & GARMENT

CONSTRUCTION 1

FOUNDATION:

Basic Blocks ~

Compulsory

MODULE 1:

Patterns ~

Bodice & Sleeve

MODULE 2:

Garment ~

Shirts & collars

MODULE 3:

Patterns ~

Skirts & Trousers

MODULE 4:

Garment ~ Skirt

& Trouser/Pkts

MODULE 5:

Patterns ~ Dress

Adaptations

MODULE 6:

Garment ~ Dress

construction

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MODULE 7:

FD1-PG1-KG

Patterns & Garment ~

Knit Tops and Bottoms

MODULE 8:

FD1-PG1-CPB

Pattern & Garment ~

Corset/Petticoat/bra

CAD illustration by Liza Perryman

Page # Chapter Topic 1 Shopping list 2-4 Introduction to pattern and garment construction 5-9 Taking measurements 10 Standard measurement chart 11-15 The Bodice draft – front & back 16-17 Skirt draft 18 -21 The sleeve draft 22-29 The Trouser draft

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INDEX :- (Colour coded for ease of use)

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SHOPPING LIST: You are required to purchase the following pattern construction equipment: ~ 1x Paper scissors. ~ Box of straight pins (long shaft) ~ 1x Pattern Notcher. ~ 1x Hand held stapler and staples + staple remover. ~ 1x Metal square Rule (L- shaped). ~ 1x French curve ~ 1x Tape measure with inches and cm markings. ~ 1x Awl ~ 1x Tracing Wheel ~ Pencils, eraser, markers (colours to indicate different pattern markings), cello tape and adhesive. Please refer to the "Foundation Module: PATTERN TOOLS" for more details on the tools /equipment and their functions as they are very necessary for hand drafted patterns. Bibliography: Complete Guide to Sewing: Readers Digest (ISBN 0-276001826 ) ~ Compulsory Reading. Pattern Making For Fashion Design: Helen Joseph Armstrong (ISBN 0-13-111211-2) ~ Compulsory Reading.

www.littlecrowcollectionon.blogspot.com

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a) Fabric scissors b) Pattern scissors c) Cello tape d) - (f) pens/pencils g) Metal awl h) metal metre rule i) grading ruler

1.

INTRODUCTION TO PATTERN AND GARMENT CONSTRUCTION ~ This subject consists of two essential parts, Pattern Construction and Garment Construction. The module preceding will be the pattern module and then a garment module will follow based upon the pattern module. You are required to complete all 8 modules in order to successfully complete level 1 of this subject. ~ Please take note of the compulsory reading below, these are the texts that all modules are based on and must be purchased and used in conjunction with the notes within the tutorials. All relevant information for each module is supplied within the tutorial notes, however in order to progress and build on these exercises a student will need to practice and consult these texts often. ~ Garment construction and Pattern construction go hand in hand since without an accurate pattern, with all the relevant markings and cutting instructions, you will not be able to lay and cut the garment correctly or produce a well fitted garment. A good grounding in both these areas of design is essential to become a fully functional, competent fashion designer. Knowledge of how a garment is drafted, properly laid, marked, cut and sewn will only benefit you in the long run and give you a better creative edge. ~ Also note that many terms and processes may often be duplicated/ repeated in the modules as they are relevant to both pattern and garment construction: eg. Correct labelling, and marking of all pattern pieces. ~ Most of the "Foundation Modules" information can be found in the compulsory/ recommended reading books mentioned below and in order to get the most out of this learning experience you are required to read each section that applies to your module in order to be better prepared for the exercises within this module. However, to ensure you have everything you need at your fingertips, your tutor has compiled short introductory "Foundation Modules" for you to download in conjunction with this module, just in case you have a problem obtaining the reading materials in time for your module 1. Please read through the foundation modules as they are essential for preparing you for what's ahead. ~ Each "Foundation Module" is clearly labelled and will assist your progress through the whole course. You can consult the foundations at any time through the level you feel you need assistance, or message me for extra help. ~ The "Foundation Modules" for this course are: "PATTERN TOOLS" and "TAKING MEASURMENTS“. This Foundation module called “Basic Blocks” is compulsory, and you must have drafted all the mentioned patterns (bodice, skirt, sleeve and trouser) before attempting Module 1. You need to make sure all your full size drafts are 100% correct because if your basic pattern drafts are incorrect, all your following modules patterns will be incorrect. Compulsory Reading: ~ Patternmaking for Fashion Design (5th edition) by Helen Joseph- Armstrong. Pearson Publishers. ~ Complete guide to Sewing by Readers Digest.

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GLOSSARY OF PATTERN TERMS ~ Cutting Line - Heavy outer line on pattern pieces lets you know where to cut. ~ Seam line/ Stitching Line - A broken line found 1/4 to 5/8 inch inside the cutting line and indicates the seam allowance. ~ Notches - These are diamond shaped/ half oval match points on the cutting line for accurately joining pattern pieces together. You may find single, double or triple notches all on 1 pattern. ~ Circles, dots, triangles or squares - These shapes often indicate additional match points that aid in the construction and fit of the individual pieces. E.g. Large dots on the waist line may indicate gathers. ~ Place on fold - This indicates that a pattern needs to lie on a folded fabric along a lengthwise grain, after cutting, the fabric can be opened to a full piece. ~ Lengthen or Shorten Directives - Based on your measurements your body may be longer or shorter than the paper pattern piece. These double lines show where you can cut the pattern apart to lengthen it or fold to shorten. ~ Darts - Broken stitching lines meet at a point to create the dart. Sometimes a solid line runs the length of the dart to indicate where you fold the fabric to create the dart. ~ Centre Back & Centre Front - These directions are clearly labelled with a solid cutting line or (Place on Fold) symbol. If the pattern as solid cutting line, it has a seam down the centre front or centre back. If the centre front or back is placed "on fold" then seam allowance is not needed. ~ Zipper Position - This indicates the zipper placement. The top and bottom markings (usually dots) show the length of the zipper. ~ Grain lines - This is the most important pattern marking, the grain line symbol is a straight line that usually has arrowheads at each end. The grain line parallels the selvages(finished edges) of the fabric. ~ Directional stitching Symbols - These symbols look like small arrows or presser feet symbols, indicate the direction of sewing. ~ The hemline - This direction on the pattern shows the recommended finished length of the garment, which varies from person to person. The hemline may vary but the hem allowance (distance from hemline to the cut edge) doesn't.

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Pattern Pieces showing critical areas

Self Drafted Pattern

Bought Paper Pattern

www.visual.merriam-webster.com

www.visual.merriam-webster.com

Patterns made by Liza Perryman

VISUALS:

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Please note: Each pattern piece must be clearly labelled with the following: Pattern piece eg: – FRONT Cut by how many – CUT X2 FABRIC Size - SIZE 10 Grain line

Pattern pieces showing stacked grading for each part.

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TAKING MEASUREMENTS: Before attempting any pattern draft you need to understand the importance of taking correct body measurements. Please refer to the "Foundation Module 2: TAKING MEASUREMENTS" which will assist you with this process. Practice on yourself but preferably a friend. Landmark Terms: The following landmark terms identify the parts of the form that are referred to when measuring from one landmark to another. Numbers refer to both the front and back wherever indicated. 1. Centre front neck Centre back neck 2. Centre front waist Centre back waist 3. Bust points 4. Centre front bust level(between bust points) 5. Side front(princess) Side back(princess) 6. Mid-armhole front Mid-armhole back - Both at level with plate screw. 7. Shoulder tip 8. Shoulder at neck(shoulder neck) 9. Armhole ridge or roll line 10. Plate screw 11. Armhole point

Shortened Symbol Key: ~ CF = Centre front ~ CB = Centre back ~ BP = Bust point ~ SS = Side seam ~ SW = Side waist

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Circumference form and model measurements: When taking personalized measurement please follow the following advise:- ~ A tape measure is placed around the person to take the circumference measurements ~ A finger is placed under the tape whilst the tape is wrapped on top of the metal end to get the reading on the tape. ~ Do not pull tight on the tape, but rather wrap it gently without it falling down the person.

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1. Bust:- over the bust prominence and round the back in the same line. 2. Waist:- around waist. 3. Abdomen:- 3” below waist. 4. Hip:- Measured at the widest area of the hip with the tape parallel to the floor.

Circumference measurements

Horizontal Arc measurements - front

Front Horizontal Arc measurements for form and Model: Arc measurements are taken from centre lines to the side seam. 10. Bust span – ½ bust measurement. 14. Across shoulder – shoulder tip to CF neck. 15. Across chest – CF to 1” above mid-armhole. 17. Bust arc – CF over bust point, ending 2” below armhole side seam. 19. Waist arc – CF waist to side seam. 20. Dart placement – CF to side front (princess line) 22. Abdomen arc – CF to side seam starting 3” below waist. 23. Hip arc – CF to side seam on HBL line. 25. CF to HBL line.

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Illustration by Liza Perryman

Illustration from: Patternmaking for Fashion Designers – Helen Joseph –Armstrong

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Horizontal Arc measurements - Back

Back Horizontal Arc measurements for form and Model: 12. Back neck – CB neck to shoulder at neck. 14. Across shoulder – shoulder tip to CB neck. 16. Across back – CB to 1” above the mid armhole. 18. Back arc – CB to bottom of arm plate. 19. Waist arc – CB waist to side waist seam. 20. Dart placement – CB waist to side back (princess line) 22. Abdomen arc – CB to side seam, starting 3”from waist. 23. Hip arc – CB to side seam on HBL line. 25. Hip depth – CB waist to HBL line

Personal fit measurements: When taking a models horizontal arc measurements, you could take the total circumference measurement and then divide it in ½ to get the ‘horizontal arc measurement’. For the neck circumference:- measure around the upper neck, divide by 5 and record for #12. on the standard measurement chart.

Personal measurements

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Vertical measurements for form and model: Side measurements:- 11. Side length – pin a mark below the arm plate at the side seam to side waist. 13. Shoulder length – shoulder tip to neck. 26. Side hip depth – side waist to HBL on side of form being measured. 9. Bust radius – measured from bust point ending under the bust mound to rib above.

Front and back measurements for Form and Model: 5. Centre length – mark neck to waist over bridge. 6. Full length – waist to shoulder at neck, parallel with centre lines. 7. Shoulder slope – Centre line at waist to the shoulder tip. 9. Bust depth – shoulder tip to bust point.

Side measurements

Front and back Vertical measurements

New Strap measurements

New Strap measurement: To take this measurements, place the metal tip of the measuring tape at the corner of the shoulder/ neck to the bottom of the waist band at the side seam and record.

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YOU WILL BE REQUIRED TO DRAFT THE FOLLOWING BASIC BLOCKS: 1. Bodice (Front and Back) 2. Skirt (Front and Back) 3. Sleeve 4. Trouser (front and back) ~ Each pattern draft has a specific set of measurements that are required to complete the draft. All pattern drafts are worked on standard size 8/35 (as per your standard measurement chart, below). In the Clothing Industry, each chain store has their own measurement chart that you will be working your patterns from. But for now we will use the Size Chart below as our guide. ~Please refer to the "Foundation Module 2: TAKING MEASUREMENTS" for a more detailed study of Size Charts, conversions and the Draft Table. ~ Before starting any draft you must make sure that you have understood which measurements are required for that particular draft and that you have taken them accurately. Work out the measurements needed and write them down on the ‘Form measurement chart’ on a separate piece of paper. The ‘Form measurement chart’ is found at the back of your pattern book in the Appendix section, along with a Metric conversion table (inches to centimetre conversion) Please photocopy the Form measurement chart, and add in the necessary measurements, to make your pattern drafting easier. ~ Please note that all measurements are in inches and can be recalculated in centimetres by multiplying by 2.5, should you wish to do your drafts in metric measure. By using the Standard Size Chart and Metric Conversion table work out the required body measurements needed to commence each of the basic block drafts, starting with the front and back bodice drafts, skirt draft (front and back),the sleeve draft and the trouser draft(front and back. ~ The Step x step pages following will give you an easy guide to follow, as to how to draft all of the above mentioned patterns. The numbers in brackets (behind each step) directly correlate with the point form numbers on the left in the Standard Measurement Chart. It helps you to find your needed measurement easily. ~ Please keep your bodice, skirt, sleeve and trouser drafts in a safe place, or cut them out on cardboard, as you will be using them continually as a base block for all your future modules.

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Figure 1: ~ A-B = Full length (6), plus 1/8”. Draw line and label. ~ A-C = Across shoulder (14), less 1/8”. Square 3” down from C line. ~ B-D = Centre front length (5). Mark and square out 4”. ~ B-E = Bust arc (17), plus ¼”. Square out from B, and then square up 11” from E.

Figure 1. Figure 2. Figure 2:

~ B-G = Shoulder slope (7), plus 1/8”. G touches C line. ~ G-H = Bust depth (9). Mark on the G-B line. ~ G-I = Shoulder length (13). Square down from I to intersect D line. ~ J-K = Bust span, plus ¼”. Square from J at CF through H-K. ~ D-L = One half of D-J. Mark down from D. ~ L-M = Across chest, plus ¼”(15). Square a guideline up & down from M. ~B-F = Dart placement (20). Square down 3/16” from F.

On the previous page is the Standard measurement Chart. This chart has all the measurements needed to draft the bodice, skirt and sleeve drafts. In the step x step instructions following, there will be numbers in ( ) that correspond to the numbers in the chart, so you can find them easily. Jot down all the measurements you will need in your Form measurement chart,and then begin to make the drafts. 1. FRONT BODICE DRAFT Look at the chart on the previous page and determine, from your clients bust and hip measurement as to what size she would fall under. You can always go back and tweak the pattern at the end to make sure the pattern fits correctly.

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Figure 3: ~ I-N = New strap, plus 1/8”. Draw line from I to intersect E line. ~ N-O = Side length (11). ~ N-P = Mark 1¼” out from N. ~ O-P = side length line is directed to P, and ends when equal to N-O. Draw line from P-F. Figure 4: ~ P-Q = Waist arc (19), plus ¼” ease, less B-F measurement. Dart legs: Draw a line from K-F and measure. Draw dart legs from K through Q equal to K-F. Label this R. Dart point: Centre a point 5/5” from bust point. Redraw dart legs from this point to F and R. Draw slight curved lines from B-F and R-P. Figure 5: Armhole – Draw armhole curve with rule touching G, M and Square line. Do not follow curve past square line. Neckline – Draw curve from I – D passing inside the angle Line by 1/8”.

Figure 4

Figure 5

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Figure 3


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2. BACK BODICE DRAFT Figure 6: ~ A-B = Full length (6) ~ A-C = Across shoulder (14). Square 3” down from C. ~ B-D = Centre back length (5). Mark and square out 4”. ~ B-E = Back arc (18), plus ¾”. Square up from E.

Figure 7: ~ A-F = Back neck (12), plus 1/8”. ~ B-G = Shoulder slope (7), plus 1/8”. ~ F-H = Shoulder length (13), plus ½”. Line may pass G. Square down from F-D line. ~ B-I = Dart placement (20). ~ B-J = Waist arc (19), plus dart intake of 1½” and ¼” (ease). (Petites add 1” for dart intake, plus ¼” ease.) ~ I-K = Dart intake. Mark centre and label L.

Figure 6 Figure 7

Figure 8

Figure 8: ~ J-M = Square down 3/16”. ~ M-N = side length (11). ~ L-O = Square up from L – 1” less than M-N. Draw dart legs from O, 1/8” past I and K. Draw slightly curved lines from K-M and from B-I.

Figure 9 Figure 9: ~ F-P = One half of F-H. Mark. ~ P-Q = Draw 3” line in the direction of point O. (shown by broken line) ~ P-R = ¼” Mark. Draw dart leg Q 1/8” past R and Connect to F. Mark ¼” from P. Draw other dart leg From Q equal to dart leg Q-R, and Connect to H. ~ D-S = One fourth D-B. Mark. ~ S-T = Across back, plus ¼” (16). Square up & down from T.

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Figure 10

Figure 10: ~ Armhole – Draw armhole with the French curve touching H, T and N. The curve should touch the square line. ~ Neckline – Draw a 3/8” angle line from the corner. Draw neckline from F, angle line and ending close to D. INCREASING AND DECREASING THE BUST ON PATTERNS: The bodice is drafted with a B cup. The pattern can be adjusted for bust cup sizes A, C, D and DD for a more personalized fit. Test fit by adding seam allowances To the pattern and cutting up a toile mock up. Figure 11: A. Draw a line from Dart point to bust point and to, not through mid armhole. B. For C, D, DD cup, spread at bust point as follows: ~ C Cup = 3/8”. ~ D cup = ¾”. ~ Centre bust point. ~ Lengthen dart leg A to be equal to B. C. A Cup ~ Overlap bust point 3/8”. Tape. ~ Centre bust point. ~ Shorten dart leg A to match with B.

Figure 11

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FITTING PROBLEMS WITH THE BODICE

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Once you have completed your basic bodice, add ½” seam allowance all around the pattern pieces. Cut the front on the fold x1 and your back x2 as it has a CB opening. Try the bodice on a dummy, or a friend who is a size 8/35. Take their measurements and double check that they are as per the measurements of the standard measurement chart. If you were making a pattern for a client you would want to double check that their basic block fits correctly before attempting to make the pattern needed. Remember that if your pattern is incorrect your garment will be incorrect. Always make sure that the final pattern that is made has had a mock up made prior to cutting it out in the clients fabric.

When the bodice is too big over the bust:- The excess is pinned over the bust and To nothing at the shoulder, and then From the bust to the waist.

When the bodice is too small over the bust:- When trying on the bodice, if there is tension over The bust area, you need to cut the tryout over the Bust area to nothing at shoulder and waist. You Would need to add that amount into your pattern That is gaping. See above picture.


16. 3. SKIRT DRAFT The basic skirt draft serves 2 purposes. One, as a basic block for all skirts to be constructed off. And two, to be combined with the bodice block to make up a dress block. Figure 1: ~ A-B = Skirt length (as desired) ~ A-C = Centre front hip depth (25). ~ A-D = Back hip arc (23), plus ½” ease. Squared out from A, C and B equal to D. Draw centre back line F – D. Label E and F. ~ E-G = Centre Back hip depth (25). Cross mark location. ~ A-H = Front hip arc (23), plus ½” ease. Squared out from a, C and B equal to A-H. Draw centre front line J-H. Figure 2: - Back skirt ~ D-K = Back waist arc (19), plus ¼” for ease and add 2” for dart intake. If the waist to hip measurement is larger or smaller than the chart, you can increase or decrease the dart allowance to get waist to fit to hip measurement on chart. ~ D-L = dart placement (20). Mark first dart 1” from L. Mark dart space 1¼” and mark 1” for second dart. Square up and down from K. - Front skirt ~ H-M = Front waist arc (19), plus ¼” ease, and add 1’ for dart intake. (or personalize as stated in the back draft of figure 2.) ~ H-N = Dart placement (20). Mark first dart 5/8” from N. Mark dart space 1 ¼” and mark 5/8” for second dart. Square up and down from M.

Figure 1

Figure 2

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Figure 3

Figure 3: ~ C-P = side hip depth (26). Draw side seam curve using the skirt curve rule. Shift the rule until the depth measurement touches the front and back guidelines. Label P and Q. Waistline: Draw front and back waistline using the shallow end of the curve ruler from G – P (back) and from H – Q (front). Figure 4: ~ Back darts: Locate centres of each dart intake, and square down 5 ½”. ~ Draw dart legs from dart points to curve line of the waist. ~ Make sure each side of the dart measures the same, as they will have to be stitched together. ~ Front darts: Repeat the process with the dart legs 3 ½” long. Each side must measure the same.

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Figure 4


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18. 4. BASIC SLEEVE

Sleeve Terminology: Grainline – straight grain of the sleeve which Lies in the centre of the sleeve. Bicep level – the widest part of the sleeve. Sleeve cap – curved top of the sleeve or head. Cap height – Distance from bicep to top of cap. Cap ease – the difference between the cap or head And the actual armhole measurement from 1 – 7/8”. Elbow level – Placed at the articulation part of the sleeve with an elbow dart. Wrist level – entry for the hand. Notches – A centre top of cap notch divides cap ease between front and back of sleeve. One notch for front and two notches for back ease is between these 2 notches. Sleeve ease – additional allowance at the bicep ,elbow, and wrist gives more freedom of movement Quartering sleeve- sleeve is divided into 4 equal parts from cap – wrist as guidelines for slashing and adding fullness. Notches – 1 notch indicates the front sleeve, 2 notches indicate the back sleeve. Centre cap notch indicates the centre sleeve to body shoulder line for matching purposes.

Figure 2

Figure 3

Figure 1

Sleeve Cap Ease: The ease on a basic sleeve Cap is between 1 ¼” – 1 ½” for sizes 10 and larger. For sizes below 10 it is Between 1 1/8” and 1 ¼”. Always check your sleeves ease to avoid puckering by using flexible measuring curve. ~ measure the front bodice armhole = _____________ ~ measure the back bodice armhole = _____________ ~ add measurements together = __________________ ~ divide measurement in ½ , and add ¼” for ease = (see figure 3 below) __________________


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Sleeve Draft: -Figure 4 Draw a line in the centre of your paper. ~ A-B = Sleeve length ~ A-C = Cap height. Mark . ~ C-D = ½ of C-B. ~ D-D’ = ¾”. Mark. Square lines from A, C, D’ and B. Armhole measurement = __________. Place a ruler at A and pivot until The measurement touches the bicep line. Mark. ~ C-E = ½ of bicep measurement. Mark. Compare placement of the two marks, and mark bicep in between. Label E. Draw a line from A – E, divide into fourths. Mark and label as shown. ~ C-F = C-E Draw a line from A-F. Divide into fourths, mark and label as shown. ~ B-O = 2” less than C-E. ~ B-P = B-O Draw a line from O – E and from P - F. Figure 5: Square lines from the following: ~ G – in 3/8” ~ H – out ¼” ~ K – out 5/8” ~ L – out ¾” ~ M – out 3/16” ~ N – in ½”

Figure 4

Figure 5


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20.

Figure 6

Figure 8

Front capline: - figure 6 ~ Use a French curve or flexi curve to shape the capline of the sleeve, by touching A, L and M. Draw the curve past M for blending. ~ Change the position of the curve rule touching F, and N and draw curve blending with M line (figure 6)

Figure 7

Back Capline: - figure 7 ~ Place the curve rule so that A, K, and H touch. Draw the curve past H to blend. (figure 7) ~ Change the position of the curve rule touching E and G, and draw curve blending with H line.

Completing the Sleeve: - figure 8 ~ Label elbow level S, and extend line R ¼”. Draw line from R – E. ~ Elbow dart: ~ R-T = ½ of R – D. Mark. ~ R-U = 1”. Mark. ~ T-U = R-T. Draw connection line. ~ O-V = ¾” . Mark. Draw line from U through V equal to S – P. Label W. ~ W-X = O-P. (Adjust at the fitting if necessary.) Draw a line ending at wrist level. Draw a slightly Curved line from X to S to F.

EASE CONTROL NOTCHES ~ Back – mark notch ½” up from G and second notch ½” above it. ~ Front – mark one notch ½” above N. Continue with instructions to determine cap ease.


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21.

Figure 9

Sleeve Ease: The general rule for the sleeve is that the pattern should measure about 2” more than the persons bicep measurement. This should give the sleeve a comfortable fit. The sleeve cap should measure about 1” more than the bodice front and back armhole.

Checking the sleeve fits the Armhole:- figure 9 ~ Place the corner of the front sleeve together with the front bodice, armholes together. ~ Use a pen to hold that area of the patterns together, gently pivot the sleeve cap around the armhole, checking that the notches line up right to the centre notch of the sleeve to the shoulder line on the front bodice. ~ make a mark on the sleeve where the shoulder line is. This should be ½” to the front of the sleeve. ~ Repeat the process for the back sleeve to back bodice. ~ Place the centre cap notch in the centre of the ease you have just checked.


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22.

GLOSSARY OF PANT TERMINOLOGY ~ Bifurcated – Means divided into 2 parts. (right and left side) ~ Crotch – Base of torso where the legs join the body. ~ Crotch depth – The distance from the waist to the base of the crotch. (this is the same for the front and the back crotch depth) ~ Rise – An older term for referring to the crotch depth. ~ Crotch length – The distance from the CF waist around the crotch to the back of the CB waist. ~ Crotch extension – The distance from the CF and CB line to the inside crotch. ~ Crotch point – The end of the crotch extension. ~ Crotch level – This is the line from the crotch point at the front around the hips to the crotch point at the back pant. ~ Outer seam – The length of the side seam on the outside of the leg from waist to length. ~ Inner seam – The seam on the inside of the leg from crotch point to the length. ~ Pitch – Is the term given to the back crotch length, that has been slashed and lengthened and now sits at a slanted angle, away from the CB line.

5. THE TROUSER


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23.

THE DIFFERENT PANT FOUNDATIONS/ BLOCKS There are 4 different pant blocks that can be drafted and They are as follows:- 1. Culotte – Has the longest crotch extension because this pant has the biggest distance from the figure at crotch level. 2. Trouser – The trouser hangs straight from the bottom to the hem, but sits closer to the body than the culotte. 3. Slack – This block draft sits closer to the body than does the trouser because the crotch extension is shorter. This causes a slight tightness under the bottom. 4. Jean – This draft fit has the shortest front and back crotch extension, and contours the figure. This short crotch extension results in a loss of crotch length but an increase in the back pitch to make up for it.

aliexpress.com stylehive.com dwarka.com tqsmagasine.co.uk

Culotte Trouser Slacks Jean


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24.

MEASURING FOR THE PANT DRAFT If you are wanting to draft a pattern for a client or for yourself and your measurements differ from that of the Standard measurement chart, you will need to know where to take accurate measurements for the pant Drafts. Take the circumference measurements of the waist and hip and divide each measurement by 4. You Divide by 4 because you will be drafting a ¼ of the pant at a time. (either the front or back) Then modify as Follows:- Example: Waist = 26” 4 = 6 ½” ~ then add ¼” = 6 ¾” = front waist. ~ then subtract ¼” = 6 ¼” = back waist. Hip = 38” 4 = 9 ½” ~ subtract ¼” = 9 ¼” = front hip ~ add ¼” = 9 ¾” = back hip ~ To determine the dart intake, subtract the waist from the hip circumference measurement. ~ Record your measurements in a photocopied page of the ‘measurement chart’ from the back of your books. Vertical Measurements:- ~ Waist to ankle length (27) ~ Waist to floor length (27) ~ Waist to mid-knee (30) Circumference Measurements:- (figure 1) ~ Waist arc (19) – CF to side seam – CB to side seam. ~ Hip arc (23) – Place a pin 9” below waist at CF and CB. measure at this level for CF to side seam and CB to side seam. ~ Upper thigh (29) – near crotch base. ~ Mid thigh (29) – between crotch and knee. ~ Knee (30) – mid knee level. ~ Calf (31) – widest part below knee. ~ Ankle ( 32) (figure 2) - Crotch length (28) – centre front under crotch and to centre back.

Figure 1

Figure 2


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~ Vertical Trunk (28) – Front to back measurement starting at the nape of the neck and passing under the crotch.

~ Crotch Depth (24) – figure 4 shows you where to measure for the form – place a square ruler between the legs and note the measurement from the waist level to the crotch level. ~ Crotch depth (24) – figure 3 shows a person sitting in a chair. Tie an elastic in the natural waist and then measure from that elastic to the base of the chair.

Figure 4

Figure 3

~ Foot entry (32) – measure around the heel and instep of the foot

25.

Figure5

Figure 6


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6. THE TROUSER DRAFT The trouser is a pant that does not fit too tightly and hangs from the bottom to the length. This draft is used as a basis for other pant adaptations such as: the pleated trouser, the baggy trouser as well as the short, the Jamaica, the Bermuda and the Pedal pusher. The measurements you will be need to draft a size 8/35 the trouser are as below: (please refer to the standard measurement chart, and look up the # in( ) ~ Waist to ankle (27).................... ~ Crotch depth (24) .................... ~ Front hip arc (23) .................. ~ Back hip arc (23) ................... ~ Front waist arc (19) .................... ~ Back waist arc (19) .................... The Trouser Draft: ~ A-B = waist to ankle (pant length). ~ A-D = Crotch depth plus ¾” ease (this varies). ~ D-C = Hip depth: 1/3 of D-A. ~ B-E = Knee depth: ½ of B-D plus 1” (towards crotch level). Square out from both sides of A, B, C, D, and E.

Figure 1


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27.

Figure 2:- Back: ~ C-F = back hip plus ¼” (ease). ~ D-G = same as C-F. ~ A-H = same as C-F. Connect G with H. ~ G-X = ½ of G-H. ~ G-I = ½ of G-D Figure 3:- Back Dart intake for personal measurements drafts ~ H-N = ¾” make a mark. ~ N-O = waist measurements plus 2 ¼”. ~ N-P = 3”. Mark 1” intake for each dart and space

of 1 ¼” apart. Mark centres of each dart and square down 4½”.

Front: ~ C-J = front hip plus ¼” (for ease). ~ D-K = same as C-J. ~ A-L = same as a C-J. Connect K with L. ~ K-X = ½ of K-L. ~ K-M = ¼ K-D. Figure 2

Figure 3

Front dart intake for person measurement drafts ~ L-Q = waist measurements plus 1 ¼” ~ L-R = 3”. Mark ½” intake for each dart and space 1 ¼” apart. Mark centres of each dart and square down 3”.


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28.

Figure 4:- Back - ~ N-S = ¼” squared up from n. Draw line from S-X to crotch level. ~ F-T = 2” diagonal line (less 1/8 – ¼” for sizes under 10) Draw the crotch curve from I-X touching or blending at T. Front – K-U = 1 ½” diagonal line. Draw the crotch curve from M-X touching or blending at U. Figure 5 Back and Front Waistlines ~ Draw a slight inward curved line from S-O. ~ Draw a slight inward curved line from ¼” below L-Q. ~ Draw dart legs to the waistline and true (this means adding to the shorter dart legs to make them equal in length). ~ Draw hip curves just above C=O and to Q.

Figure 4

Figure 5


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29.

Figure 6:- Back ~ D-V = 1/ of D-I plus ¼”. Square up and down from V(this is the back grain line). Front ~ D -W = ½ of D-M plus ¼”. Square up and down from W(this is the front grain line). ~ Mark hemline widths ( they will be adjusted at fitting stage) ~ Outer seams – Draw straight lines from ankle marks to C (blend with hip line). ~ Inner seams – mark ½” in from M and L and draw straight lines to ankle marks. Draw inward curved lines from I and M, blending in at the knee area. Ensure that your side seams and inner seams of front and back relate to each other by walking the patterns together along the appropriate seams. Start by laying your front and back inner seams together starting at the crotch point. Place a pencil near to the edges and gently rotate the top pattern over the under along the seams. Repeat the same process for the outer seams. Where there is a shortfall either add on to the pattern or trim off the excess. Figure 7:- Ways to equalize the side hipline ~ ~ Measure the distance between O and Q, divide in 1/2 and place an equal amount either side of A. Re-draw the side seam curved shape.

Figure 6

Figure 7


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Please note: ~ Trace these patterns out on cardboard and keep them in a safe place. ~ You will be referring to them for most of your modules. ~ Make sure your patterns are well labelled and all grain lines are present. ~ No seam allowances need be added, as these are just basic blocks to be used to construct other patterns.

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Bibliography: ~ Helen Joseph Armstrong, 20010. Patternmaking for Fashion Design. 5th edition. Pearson publishers. ~ Certain information compiled by Liza Perryman.

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