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LESLEY CHESTERMAN, SPECIAL TO MONTREAL GAZETTEMore from Lesley Chesterman, Special to Montreal GazettePublished on: December 19, 2014Last Updated: December 26, 2014 5:14 PM EDT
Lesley Chesterman picks the best restaurants of 2014
What a year this was for Montreal restaurants.There was an explosion of openings, yet what hurt most were the closings of many long-standing Montreal institutions likeGlobe, Magnan’s Tavern, Le Latini and the Beaver Club. The scene is in crisis, no doubt facing obstacles that don’tappear to be letting up any time soon. And yet when I dine out, I’m often seated in crowded rooms filled with happycustomers dining on pretty fabulous food. Despite the hardships, Montreal remains a great restaurant city.
Choice right now is at an all-time high. And though this year delivered a few lousy dinners and not a single four-starreview, on the whole I’d say we eat pretty darn well. The high end has all but collapsed, but the low end has improvedconsiderably. So here we are now, noshing somewhere in the middle.
If anything, 2014 has been a year of renewal. I think of restaurants like Thursdays and Les 400 Coups doing great thingsunder new chefs. Then there are people like the Rouyé couple, who successfully up and left the city to move on to Val-David. Joe Mercuri, former chef-owner of Brontë, is back behind the stoves, creating some pretty wild dishes at his newrestaurant, Mercuri. I was sad to see the St-Denis St. restaurant Tasso close, but thrilled to see they moved to swish digsin the Old City. I have nothing but admiration for the gang at Lucille’s Oyster Dive who rebuilt after a fire gutted theirN.D.G. restaurant and came out better than ever. And how great to get to know so many new chefs at restaurants like LesCoudes sur la Table, Manitoba and Salmigondis, who have found success in their adopted town of Montreal.
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Montreal Gazette fine dining food critic Lesley Chesterman's top 10 restaurants for 2014.
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The Montreal restaurant scene needs some encouragement these days. Despite the snowballing austerity measures andcost-cutting many of us are sure to be considering, let’s not forget our restaurants. Here’s to more great eats in 2015!
The best dishes of 2014
Bouillon Bilk
When I dined at Bouillon Bilk last summer, devouring dishes like lobster salad, foie gras terrine and a pork dumpling, Ithought this was a restaurant that could compete on the international fine-dining scene. It opened in 2011, but finally cameinto its own this year thanks to chef François Nadon’s exquisite food (does anyone make more beautiful plates?) and co-owner Mélanie Blanchette’s dining room smarts. Not only were the wine choices perfect, service managed to be slick,smooth and friendly. Though the restaurant sustained major water damage on Dec. 9, things should be up and runningagain in the new year. Without a doubt, Bouillon Bilk was my top restaurant of 2014. Bouillon Bilk, 1595 St-Laurent Blvd.514-845-1595. www.bouillonbilk.com
Les 400 Coups
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I was worried that Les 400 Coups might falter when its original kitchen crew departed last year. Their replacements, chefGuillaume Cantin and pastry chef Brian Verstraten, slipped into this renowned kitchen with little fanfare, but within sixmonths had not only maintained the high level, but may even have surpassed it. From the nouveau onion soup through tothe guinea hen main course to the caramel dessert, I was one happy diner. The dishes could use a little editing, but theenthusiasm I see on these plates is impressive. Les 400 Coups, 400 Notre-Dame St. E. 514-985-0400.www.les400coups.ca
Salmigondis
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When I walked onto the empty terrasse at Salmigondis last summer, I was concerned. But when the plates started toarrive, my spirits soared. The talent in the kitchen includes former New Brunswickers and co-chefs Brian Peters andRobert Kaniak, and their incredibly appealing menu doesn’t fall into any particular ethnic persuasion. Instead, it’s a lineupof product-driven dishes starring deer, scallops, veal, lobster, mackerel and more. The cooking is sharp. Prices are quitehigh, making this an occasion restaurant. Start the night with a cocktail, soak up the pretty surroundings, and if the halibutis on the menu, jump! Salmigondis, 6896 St-Dominique St. 514-564-3842. www.salmigondis.ca
Shinji
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I have long been a fan of chef Shinji Nagai, so I was thrilled to visit Shinji, his new restaurant in the heart of Griffintown.His partner is restaurateur/Simple Plan guitarist Jeff Stinco, who was smart to bet on Nagai as one of his brightestheadline chefs. Of course, the main event at Shinji is the sushi, and the selection I was served left me wide-eyed, admiringthe surgically precise slices of pristine sashimi, the exquisite fingers of nigiri sushi, the pretty maki rolls and the artisticarrangement of it all. Montreal isn’t considered much of a sushi town, but now with the likes of Shinji, Antonio Park at Parkand Junichi Ikematsu at Jun-i, sushi hounds are well served. Shinji, 1732 Notre-Dame St. 438-384-1270.www.shinjimtl.com
Les Coudes sur la Table
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I was one of the last critics to review Les Coudes sur la Table, but this bistronomie-style restaurant scored! Breton nativeCedric Deslandes is the chef, Alexandre Jourdan is the maître d’ – and together with partner Serge Gauthier, they havecreated a very special restaurant. Deslandes’s food impresses because of his stellar technique. Starting with somefabulous foie gras cooked torchon-style followed by squash-stuffed ravioli and finishing with some impressive desserts,this unassuming French restaurant wowed. In a scene filled with noisy dining rooms and pork-belly-filled plates, thissophisticated bistro provides an oasis of civility. Les Coudes sur la Table, 2275 Ste-Catherine St. E. 514-521-0036.www.lescoudessurlatable.ca
La Table des Gourmets
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Sometimes you just want a change and if so, you’d be hard-pressed to find a better restaurant “en région” than the six-month-old La Table des Gourmets. The former owners of Montreal’s La Porte restaurant, chef Thierry Rouyé and his wife,Pascale, make for the ideal husband-and-wife team, with him behind the stoves and her managing the front-of-house. Thespace is airy and modern, the food is made with the best local ingredients, and the prices are quite a bit lower than whatyou’d find for the equivalent meal in the city. Superb. La Table des Gourmets, 2353 Rue de l’Église, Val-David. 819-322-2353. ww.tabledesgourmets.com
Lawrence
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When looking for the ultimate Montreal experience, I can think of two establishments that capture the energy of our cityright now. First, Lawrence, the restaurant run by the dynamic group of chef Marc Cohen, Sefi Amir and Ethan and AnnikaWills. Lawrence has quickly become one of Mile End’s signature restaurants, popular at brunch and lunch, and exceptionalat dinner time when Cohen’s modern British cuisine is the antithesis of the stuffy restaurant experience. Lawrence, 5201St-Laurent Blvd. 514-503-1070. www.lawrencerestaurant.com
Manitoba
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In the same vein comes Manitoba, where owners Elisabeth Cardin, Simon Cantin and chef Chris Parasiuk have managedto create a dining space that is as much about the food, the wines, the ambience and the decor. Gosh, I never wanted toleave that restaurant. Manitoba, 271 St-Zotique St. W. 514-270-8000. www.restaurantmanitoba.com
Ikanos
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There is a dearth of ethnic restaurants on the fine-dining beat, which is why Ikanos was such a favourite this year. ChefsConstant and Nicolas Mentzas’s menu features dishes like scallops with foie gras, octopus in a panzanella-style salad,and pomegranate-braised lamb. There are all sorts of enticing fish and seafood grilled over live wood charcoal like yousee in many a Greek taverna. And then there’s Ikanos’s wine list, a great lineup of some of the most food-friendly Greekwines available. I yearn to taste more. Ikanos, 112 McGill St. 514-842-0867. www.restaurantikanos.com
Thursday’s
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And finally, the surprise of 2014: Thursday’s. In September 2012, word was this Montreal institution would be demolished.Frankly, I thought it had already closed. But a year ago, the restaurant’s demolition was scrapped and owner BernardRagueneau passed the torch to his son Torrance to helm the new Thursdays Bistro, Bar and Club. Smart move and evensmarter of Ragueneau to hire Jean-François Vachon, an experienced chef who knows his way around the French classics.I didn’t expect much from my dinner here, but ended up having a terrific meal, with great food, superb service and all in thislegendary room that turned out to be as much fun today as it was in its heyday. Here’s hoping a new heyday is on thehorizon. Thursday’s, 1449 Crescent St. 514-288-5656. www.thursdaysmontreal.com
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Melissa Breton · Northwood University-West Palm BeachMyPiece is a free application offering exclusive deals and promotions on manyrestaurants such as these. Download it to keep some money in your pocket inorder to eat out more!Reply · Like · · January 19 at 12:00pm1
Ilania AbileahThank you for including one of my favourite restaurant La Table des Gourmets inVal David. Next time you come up in summertime, please also try Carré desSaveurs, in St. Sauveur. They do have an affordable lunch in summertime - ChefFrederic is creative, imaginative and responds to my three criteria - pleasing to theeye, aromatic and tastes heavenly. As Chef Thiery using fresh, mostly organic localproduce.Reply · Like · · December 19, 2014 at 10:41am1
Robert Mazerolle · Top Commenter · Director, Development at Intervistaa sucker born every minute'Reply · Like · · December 19, 2014 at 10:08am1
Robert Mazerolle · Top Commenter · Director, Development at Intervistaboth retorts miss the point- : a resto- by definition - serves nutrition. so if they areranked due to ambiance, newness, convenience and cleanliness- that s fine. Butfirst and foremost it MUST be what the serve that should be paramount in a listicle.Because they are not discos. They are not bathrooms. Obviously music andcleanliness are important- but serving lard mixed with bad oils and salt do notmake these aberant vein cloggers 'a restaurant". Just because they are hip? Theyare restaurants. Comes from the word to "restore" - not to the word " to causediabetes" - nor ' "to cause fawning food ignorant journalists to propagate thefats/salt/grease culture'.Reply · Like · December 19, 2014 at 10:06am
Robert Mazerolle · Top Commenter · Director, Development at IntervistaNot one vegan or even vegetarian consideration ? Most of these restauraunts areserving profoundly unhealthy food. The gazette should tune in to changing tastes .There are more Anglo vegans than ever in montreal.Reply · Like · December 19, 2014 at 5:17am
Cristian Racansky · Top Commenter · LaSalle College | MontrealFood obeys no language my "Anglo Vegan" friend.Reply · Like · · December 19, 2014 at 6:39am5
Robert Mazerolle · Top Commenter · Director, Development atIntervistaam not anglo-the publication is.Reply · Like · December 19, 2014 at 8:27am
David WhiteI don't see that they were not considered, they just didn't make the cut.Reply · Like · · Edited · December 19, 2014 at 8:36am2
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