kooperationsstelle hamburg substitution of hazardous chemicals in products and processes...

Kooperationsstelle Hamburg

Substitution of Hazardous Chemicals in Products and ProcessesSubstitution of Hazardous Chemicals in Products and Processes

Substitution of Hazardous Chemicals in Products and Processes

Workshop„Textiles in Chemicals“

Hamburg, June 14, 2002

Lothar Lissner



1. Chemical Scope

2. Eco-toxicological Evidence

3. Regulation, Market and Actors

4. Substitutes

5. Implication for enterprises

Content



Combined results from two case studies

1. Success of Textile Labels

2. Dry cleaning of textiles with PER



Basic materials

• Synthetic fibres (Polyester, Polyamid, Polyacrilonitrile

• Wood pulp (Viscose, Cupro, Acetat)

• Cotton and flax

• Wool

• Silk



Extractable heavy metals

AntimonyArsenicLeadCadmiumChromiumCobaltCopperNickelMercuryTinZinc

Chemicals

Free formaldehydePesticides (Phenols, PCP, TeCP, OPP)PVC- plasticisersPhthalates Organotin compoundsDyes (arylamines, carcinogenic, allergic)Chlorinated organic carriersBiocides Flame retardants

Main problematic substances



Production

Chemicals from the production or manufacturing of basic materials (synthetic fibres, wood pulp, cotton, wool, silk) as pesticides, bleaching chemicals, catalysts as antimony

Preparation

Cleaning and washing (solvents)Spinning (oils)

WAYS OF CHEMICALS INTO THE TEXTILE



Pre-Treatment

Carbonising, washing, dyeing, printing, bleaching, mercerising etc.

Finishing

Treatments to achieve properties as

Easy care, Water repellent, Softening, Anti Static Treatment, Flame retardant, Moth proofing,Anti bactericidal and anti fungicidal

WAYS OF CHEMICALS INTO THE TEXTILE



In many cases:Certainty about the toxic properties as for dyes, pesticides, heavy metals, organo tin

Uncertainty or ambiguity about the NO-effect levels

On the following pages:Comparison of four label criteria

ECOTOXICOLOGICAL EVIDENCE



Parameter Oeko-Tex-Standard II”In direct contact with skin”

Oeko-Tex-Standard III”No direct contact with skin”

EU -ECO-EU Eco-Label

Nordic Eco-Label “Nordic Swan”Product group B “Clothes”

Ph-Value 4,0 - 7,5 4,0 - 9,0 ----- Acc. ISO 3071

Free formaldehyde 75 ppm 300 ppm 75/300 ppm 30 ppm

Extractable heavy metals(in ppm)AntimonyArsenicLeadCadmiumChromiumCr VI CobaltCopperNickelMercuryTinZinc

(in ppm)10,01,01,00,12,0under detection level4,050,04,00,02--------

(in ppm)10,01,01,00,12,0under detection level4,050,04,00,02--------

Separated limit values for heavy metals in dyes and pigments, but not in the final product

(in mg/kg)----0,20,80,12,0---- 4,050,04,00,024,060,0



Parameter Oeko-Tex-Standard II”In direct contact with skin”

Oeko-Tex-Standard III”No direct contact with skin”

EU -ECO-EU Eco-Label

Nordic Eco-Label “Nordic Swan”Product group B “Clothes”

Organotin compounds (since 2000)

TBT 1 ppm TBT 1 ppm ---- Not acceptable

Dyes (arylamines, carcinogenic, allergic)

Not used Detailed List Detailed list accor ding to the German ban of azo-dyes list

Chlorinated organic carrier

1,0 ppm 1,0 ppm Not acceptable

1% of the weight (halogenated subst.)

Biocides finish Not acceptable

Not acceptable

------ Not acceptable

Flame retardant finish None None No substance labelled with R45, R46, R50, R52, R53, R60 or R 61

Bromo- and chloro- organic flame retardants not acceptable



REGULATION

Important regulative areas

Regulation of raw material production:Pesticides in wool andcotton production – very divergent depending on the regulations in the different 1.,2.,3.World nations

Regulation of processing chemicals in the textile manufacturing from different areas, most important:Waste water, dyeing process (see also for a complete overview the BREF-Reference Document on Best Available Techniques for the Textiles Industry, Nov 01)

Regulation of the final productMainly via Labels (Oeko-Tex, European Eco Label, Nordic Swan)

Import controls – low enforcement



MARKET

Globalised production

Very dispersed supply chain



ACTORS

Divergent views on substitution encountered:

Consumers

Retail

Textile producers in industrialised and 2. and 3. World countries

The suppliers of textile chemicals

Suppliers of synthetic fibres / Suppliers of natural fibres

Governments and WTO

Label issuers



SUBSTITUTES

Main strategies

Emission reduction by fixing of chemicals to reduce the extractability res emission

Substitution or very reduced use of the most hazardous products as carcinogenic dyes or some pesticides

Strict emission control as in the waste water area

Strict emission control of PER in dry cleaning



IMPLICATIONS FOR ENTERPRISES

Retail services:Trust on existing labels or development of own criteria

Textile producers: Trust on the suppliers res. labels or control instruments used by suppliers

The suppliers of textile chemicals Development of innovative products

kooperationsstelle hamburg substitution of hazardous chemicals in products and processes...

Documents