keyka lou patterns-pixie handbag

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Pixie Handbag

********************************* Important Printing Information ***************************** When printing set “scaling” to “none” in your print properties. A 1”x1” print test square is shown with the pattern pieces. Print troubleshooting is available here: http://keyka.typepad.com/my_weblog/2009/01/print-troubleshooting-for-pdf-sewing-patterns.html

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General Info/Tips If you’d like to add additional structure to the bag body you can add another layer of lining to the WRONG side of the B pieces. The picture for step #7 shows where sew in interfacing has been added to the wrong side of the bag body piece. For this pattern sew-in interfacing, muslin, cotton batting or a lighter material is suggested for the additional lining. Using a heavier material may make gathering difficult. Cutting Info: Small and large versions of pieces A & B are included. They are labeled. Piece C is the same for both sizes. Pieces A & B need to be placed on a fold for cutting. The edge to place on the fold is marked. Supplies

• ½ yard focus fabric (exterior fabric)

• ½ yard lining/contrast top fabric

• ½ yard fusible interfacing

• 5” x 5” piece of scrap fabric to make flap backing

• 3.25” piece of elastic

• Button for interior pocket

• 14-18mm magnetic snap

• Decorative button for flap (optional)

Seam Allowance: Edge of standard presser foot unless otherwise indicated. Topstitch: ⅛” - ¼” Approximate Finished Dimensions: Small - 10" (w) x 6.75" (h) x 3.5" deep x 18” strap(s)

Large - 11.5" (w) x 8.25" (h) x 3.5" deep x 18” strap(s)

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------------------------------------------------ 1. Cut Pieces ------------------------------------------------

� Focus Fabric

Cut two piece B (small or large size) Cut one piece C Strap(s): Using ruler & marking pen draw and cut:

Single strap: one piece 19” high x 4” wide Double strap: two pieces 19” high x 3” wide

� Lining & Contrast Top Fabric: Cut four piece A (small or large size) Cut two piece B (small or large size) Cut one piece C Interior pocket: Using ruler & marking pen draw and cut: two pieces 5.5” wide x 5” high (grain is not important)

� Interfacing Cut four piece A (small or large size) Cut two piece B (small or large size) Cut one piece C Strap(s): Using ruler & marking pen draw and cut:

Single strap: one piece 19” high x 4” wide Double strap: two pieces 19” high x 3” wide

� Scrap Fabric Cut one piece C from scrap fabric, sew-in interfacing, muslin, recycled fabric, etc. This will piece will not show on the finished flap and will help stabilize the snap.

------------------------------------------------ 2. Apply Interfacing ------------------------------------------------

a. Apply the interfacing pieces to the WRONG side of all four A pieces, the two focus

fabric B pieces, the focus fabric C piece and the strap piece(s). Follow the interfacing manufacturer instructions regarding heat setting, press time, etc.

------------------------------------------------ 3. Sew Darts ------------------------------------------------

a. Mark the darts on the WRONG side of all four B pieces.

b. Stitch the darts in place on all four B pieces. Clip extra fabric away on dart if desired.

Tip: Visit http://keyka.typepad.com/my_weblog/2008/04/making-great-da.html for tips on making darts.

------------------------------------------------4. Attach Pocket Pieces ------------------------------------------------

a. Fold the raw ends of the elastic piece together.

b. Hand sew through both ends

edges.

c. Wrap the thread around the loop bottom several times and then insert needle throuDon’t snip the thread yet.

d. Find the center top of and on the RIGHT sidewith the attached loop about top edge. The loop should face toward the bottom of piece B as shown in the photo. Hand stitch the loop to the fabric using a few stitches to hold it firmly in place. Tie off thread and snip.

e. On the RIGHT side of the fabric, mcenter on both pocket(either of the longer sidechalk or pin.

f. Mark the center bottom on

one piece A.

g. Lay one pocket piece with the piece A with the center mark along the bottom. Match the center pocket piece and the A piecealong bottom edge of A

h. Sew across pocket attaching it to piece

photo).

i. Lay the second pocket together with the lining attached loop. Match the center pocket piece to the loop on the lining piece B. Pin in place along top edge of lining piece B.

j. Sew across pocket attachi(see photo).

k. Fold the pocket piece attached to downward and press the seam.

l. Fold the pocket piece attached to B up

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of the elastic piece together.

Hand sew through both ends about 1/8” from the raw

thread around the loop bottom several times needle through the center of the stitches.

Don’t snip the thread yet.

of one lining piece B RIGHT side insert the needle

with the attached loop about 1/8” from the The loop should face toward the piece B as shown in the photo.

the loop to the fabric using a it firmly in place. Tie off

On the RIGHT side of the fabric, mark the pocket pieces along the top

sides) with a fabric pen,

bottom on the RIGHT side of

Lay one pocket piece RIGHT sides together with the center mark along the

the center markings on the pocket piece and the A piece. Pin in place along bottom edge of A.

Sew across pocket attaching it to piece A (see

pocket piece RIGHT sides lining piece B with the

Match the center marking of the pocket piece to the loop on the lining piece B.

along top edge of lining piece B.

pocket attaching it to lining piece B

piece attached to the A piece

downward and press the seam.

pocket piece attached to B upward and press the seam.

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------------------------------------------------ 5. Gather Fabric on B Pieces ------------------------------------------------

a. Using a basting stitch (very long stitch), sew across the top of one focus fabric B

piece ⅛” from the edge. Leave a tail of thread 2”+ on each end and do NOT back stitch at either end.

b. Sew a second line of stitching close to the

first stitches, but still within the seam allowance. It’s ok if you go beyond the seam allowance here and there—any of the gathering stitches that show on the finished bag can be removed with a seam ripper.

c. Repeat steps a & b for the remaining focus

fabric B piece and the lining fabric B piece without the attached pocket.

d. Repeat steps a & b for the lining piece B with the attached pocket, but sew the gathering stitches only along both sides of the pocket (i.e. do not sew gathering stitches across the part of the piece with the attached pocket).

e. On the RIGHT side of the fabric mark the center on the along the bottom edge

(longer edge) of the three A pieces WITHOUT the pocket.

f. On the RIGHT side of the fabric mark the center top of the three B pieces WITHOUT the pocket. Tip: Use a pin for the markings on the B pieces. The gathers on these pieces may make it difficult to see your center markings if you use a pen.

g. On one lining piece B WITHOUT the pocket,

gather the fabric by grasping the top threads on the RIGHT side of the fabric and gently pulling the thread while pushing the fabric toward the center of the piece. Try to gather fairly evenly, but the gathers doesn’t need to be tight or perfect. Once fabric is gathered on one side, go to other side and pull thread while pushing fabric towards the center.

h. Repeat for all remaining B pieces (gathering only along the sides of the pocket for

the pocket panel piece).

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6. Create Panels ------------------------------------------------

a. Sew lining panel with the pocket by taking the A and B pieces with the attached pocket pieces and laying them RIGHT sides together.

b. Match up the edges of the pocket pieces and

pin around the sides and bottom. c. Match pieces A & B together along the sides

of the pocket and pin in place. You may need to release or tighten some gathers to make these pieces match up. Stitch along the pinned edges of A and B and around the pocket (see arrows in photo).

d. On the remaining A and B pieces match the

center of one A piece to the center of one B piece so the fabrics are RIGHT sides together. Insert one pin in the center.

e. Moving out from the center to one edge, pin A

to B. Release/tighten gathers if necessary. Return to center and pin outward to opposite edge.

f. Repeat for the remaining two sets of A and B

pieces. g. Sew the A & B pieces together along pinned

edges. h. Iron or finger press the seam where A & B meet. Top stitch along bottom edge of the

A pieces if desired.

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7. Make Bag Shells ------------------------------------------------

a. Lay the two focus fabric panels RIGHT sides together. Line up the seams between the A & B pieces on each side and pin in place. Line up darts at the bottom of the two panels and pin in place. Then pin the rest of the way around the bag. Tip: The top seams are the most important to line up since they will be the most obvious if they are mismatched. Let the darts be off a bit if necessary.

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b. Stitch around the outside edge attaching the focus fabric panels together to create the focus fabric bag shell.

c. Clip curves.

d. Press around stitching and then press side seam open flat at the top on each side of

the bag shell. e. Repeat steps a –d to attach the lining panels together to create the lining bag shell.

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8. Construct Flap ------------------------------------------------

a. On the RIGHT side of the lining fabric piece C find the center along the bottom curved edge. Measure up 1.25” from bottom edge and mark the snap placement.

b. Place the washer that came with your snap over

the snap placement mark and draw where prong slits need to be clipped.

c. Place the scrap fabric piece C on the WRONG

side of the lining fabric piece C.

d. Snip the holes for snap prongs through both the lining fabric and scrap fabric layers. Tip: Additional info on snaps can be found here: http://keyka.typepad.com/my_weblog/2008/07/how-to-insert-m.html

e. From the RIGHT side of your lining piece C insert the prongs of the male snap half through the slits.

f. On the WRONG side place the backing washer

over the prongs and then flatten them outward to hold the snap in place. Tip: The prong edges are often rough/sharp so use a small square of cotton batting or scrap fabric between the fabric and snap prongs to provide a buffer layer to prevent them from snagging or wearing through your fabric.

g. Place focus fabric piece C and lining piece C with attached snap RIGHT sides together and pin or clip in place. Sew around curved edge leaving the flat end open.

h. Clip curves and then trim away about half of the seam allowance.

i. Iron stitches to shrink and tighten them and then turn flap right side out through the open flat end.

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j. Press to neaten the edges and then top stitch around curved edge. Tip: Topstitch with the lining side of the flap facing up to keep the snap from getting caught on your machine plate.

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9. Attach Flap ------------------------------------------------

a. Center flap on backside of focus fabric bag shell and pin in place. Bag shell and flap fabrics should be RIGHT sides together.

b. Stitch flap in place ⅛” from the top edge.

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10. Make Strap(s) ------------------------------------------------

Tip: Additional pictures of strap construction can be found here: http://keyka.typepad.com/my_weblog/2008/06/easy-double-str.html

a. Fold strap piece in half lengthwise with the fabric WRONG sides together and press to make a crease down the center.

b. Open up fabric and press one side in

toward the center crease.

c. Press opposite side in to meet the center crease.

d. Fold fabric piece in half again to encase the

raw edges in the middle and pin or clip in place down the open edge. e. Beginning on the open edge, top stitch down the length of the strap piece.

f. Top stitch down the opposite side (folded edge). g. Repeat steps a- f to make second strap if

applicable.

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11. Attach Strap(s) ------------------------------------------------

a. Match the raw ends of the strap(s) to the top of the focus fabric bag shell and pin or clip the strap ends in place.

• Single strap: center the strap along the side seams.

• Double straps: align the straps just outside the edges of the flap.

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The strap(s) should be resting along the bag shell and facing down towards the bottom of the bag (see photo).

b. Stitch strap(s) in place ⅛” from the top edge of the focus fabric bag shell.

------------------------------------------------ 12. Attach Bag Shells Together ------------------------------------------------

a. Turn the focus fabric bag shell RIGHT side out.

b. Turn lining bag shell WRONG side out.

c. Place the focus fabric bag shell INSIDE the lining bag shell, so the fabrics are now RIGHT sides together. The straps are still facing downward along the focus fabric bag shell and are sandwiched between the bag shells. They are NOT coming out the top.

d. Line up the side seams and pin in place around

the top. e. Stitch around the top leaving a 3” opening on the front side (side without the flap) for

turning the bag RIGHT side out. Tip: The best way to leave an opening is to sew it closed first. Back stitch where the opening begins, lengthen your stitch and sew to the end of the opening. Back stitch again. Then press the seam open and remove the long stitches and you will have a nice crease to follow for slip stitching the opening closed. Pictures for this tip can be found here: http://keyka.typepad.com/my_weblog/2008/11/how-to-slip-stitch-a-seam-closed.html

f. Turn the bag RIGHT side out through opening and tuck the lining shell down inside

focus fabric bag shell.

------------------------------------------------ 13. Finishing ------------------------------------------------

a. Fold the flap down and mark where the snap on the flap meets the bag body.

b. Snip slits through the focus fabric layer for the female snap prongs.

c. Insert female half of snap as you did in step 8 for making the flap.

d. Slip stitch opening closed. Tip: To learn the

basic slip stitch go here: http://keyka.typepad.com/my_weblog/2008/11/how-to-slip-stitch-a-seam-closed.html

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e. Top stitch around the top of bag. f. Gently pull the lining out and fold the button loop upward and mark button placement. g. Hand stitch button in place and then tuck the lining back down into place. h. Clip any stray threads and remove any gathering stitches that may be showing on

the outside of the bag. i. You’re done!

**********************************COPYRIGHT INFORMATION************************************

© 2009 Selling items made from this pattern is allowed under the following circumstances: * Please credit Keyka Lou in all written item descriptions. For example when selling online please include the following sentence or other similar wording in your item description: "This bag was made using a Keyka Lou pattern.” * All items for sale must be handmade by you. Contracting with others to mass produce the design is expressly prohibited. Distribution of the pattern and instructions as your own creation is expressly prohibited.

keyka lou patterns-pixie handbag

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