Colour-Fade Defence: The Future of Sustainable Hair Styling Anna Crovetto, Marketing Manager Europe
Contents Hair Colour Protection A unique Approach: Kerazyme® Protect Study Protocol Efficacy Data Summary Bibliography
Hair Colour Protection
• Hair is coloured for many reasons, to promote confidence, to stand out from the crowd and to follow fashions
• 72% of people asked believed that hair colour improved their attractiveness, confidence and sense of well being2
• However, coloured hair is prone to fading
• 71% of people asked were unsatisfied with market products designed for colour
protection which are unable to perform as claimed2
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Presentation Notes
Hair is coloured for many reasons, to cover grey, to boost confidence, to follow the latest fashions or conversely to make a statement and stand out from the crowd. What ever the reason hair colouring is an ever growing trend leading to a vast array of hair dyes, colours and tones and new data from Mintel shows that the trend for at-home hair colouring products is picking up pace. But even so called permanent hair dye is prone to rapid fading exacerbated by everyday factors such as washing, UV exposure and heat styling. This can leave hair looking tarnished brassy and dull. In answer to this the personal care market has an abundance of shampoos, conditioners, sprays and styling products all designed to help protect hair colour and reduce fading. However, in research also conducted by Mintel and Datamonitor approx. 71% of people were found to be unsatisfied with these hair colour protection products and their performance against hair colour fade.
Semi-Permanent Hair Dye Permanent Hair Dye
Hair Cuticle Hair Cuticle
Cortex Cortex
Medulla Medulla
Large Colour Molecule Large Colour Molecule
Small Colour Molecule Colour Precursor
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Presentation Notes
In order to understand how colour protection works we also need to understand the basics behind hair colouring itself. Semi-permanent hair dyes contain large and small colour molecules that adhere to the outside of the hair. Depending on the hair’s porosity some molecules may also penetrate the cuticle layer. This means that the colour molecules are easily removed with each shampooing, leaving a dyed effect which typically lasts around 4 to 8 shampoos. Alternatively oxidative hair dyes are a more traditional method of permanently changing hair colour. They produce an effect that is more resistant to washing, compared to that of semi-permanent dyes, and are chosen to provide long term colour changes, ranging from subtle tones to dramatic shades. Oxidative dyes can be based on an alkaline agent and oxidising colouring agents. The alkaline agent has the effect of opening the hair cuticle so that the colouring agents can penetrate into the hair shaft. Colour precursors are small molecules which only develop their own colour tone once inside the hair. The oxidising agent (usually hydrogen peroxide) is mixed with the colour precursors prior to application. Oxygen is released by the reaction between the alkaline agent and the oxidising product to stimulate the colour-change. Large coloured molecules are consequently formed within the hair’s cortex. And it is harder for these larger colour molecules, once formed, to diffuse back out of the hair shaft thus giving the effect of a permanently changed hair colour.
Mass Luxury Prestige
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Every hair care brand from mass market to salon and the more prestigious names seem to have a line targeted towards reducing hair colour fade making claims such as prolongs and accentuates colour radiance, protects colour for up to 40 washes and extends hair colour. Some brands have a one product-fits-all approach where as others, such as John Frida, have hair care systems targeted towards not only different hair colours but also varying shades from light and dark blonde to brunette and red. These hair care products typically work to optimise the surfactant system in shampoos to reduce harsh cleansing and the subsequent diffusion of colour molecules from the hair shaft. Polymers and silicones can also be used to coat the hair to prevent diffusion where as UV filters are commonly added to provide protection from UV damage. In order for these methods to work the materials must be readily substantive to the hair in order to prevent direct rinse off. However, with these methods there are also some problems. For example silicones and polymers can create a protective layer on the hair but this in turn can weigh down finer hair leaving it looking flat and greasy. Also hair dressers advise that before dying your hair you should avoid using products which contain silicone in order to help better penetration of the hair dye. Therefore consumers regularly using colour protection products may also see a decrease in the performance of their hair dyes as well as colour fading afterwards.
A Unique Approach…
• Substantive to the hair
• Resilient to wash-off
• Light weight without product build up
• Maintains the hair’s integrity
• Sustainable
Presenter
Presentation Notes
In order to offer an effective system of hair colour protection we therefore need to find a product which is instantly substantive to the hair, forming strong bonds which makes the product more resilient to direct wash-off. However this product, which must seal the hair cuticle, should provide light weight conditioning without an accumulative product build-up in order to help enhance the natural body and volume of the hair and support any future colouring. As permanently dying the hair can cause long term damage such as increased porosity, brittleness, split ends and breakage it is also important to help maintain the hair’s own strength and integrity. And lastly an important focus of ours at Active Concepts is to provide materials which are sustainable having minimal impact on our environment.
Bamboo
• A natural and sustainable source of silica
• Macerated bamboo leaves are fermented with Lactobacillus lactis which complexes with the bio-silicate to give a slightly acidic solution containing bio-chelated silica
• Improves slip, softness and aesthetic of the hair
• Light weight without product build-up
Presenter
Presentation Notes
One of the key materials we wished to focus on for this protecting complex development was bamboo. In terms of hair care products I think bamboo is well established within the consumers mind as being beneficial due to product launches such as Garnier’s HerbaShine Color Creme with Bamboo Extract and from the products I showed earlier Aterna’s Colour Protection range which contains Strengthening Organic Bamboo extract. Bamboo itself is known to be one of the fastest growing plants in the world with a tensile strength to match that of steel. It is used in house construction, scaffolding, furniture, cooking utensils and fencing. The shoots and seeds are edible and the leaves are used in medicine. As such bamboo has rapidly been accepted as a natural material pioneering the concept of sustainability throughout many industries including that of personal care. Further to this bamboo provides a natural source of Silcia. The bio-silicate isolated from bamboo has typically been used in supplements targeted for the treatment of arthritis, however, there has also been in an increase in silica based supplements targeted at the growth of healthy hair and nails. We use a unique method of fermenting macerated bamboo leaves with the lactic acid bacteria Lactobacillus lactis. The process forms a complex with the bio-silate to give an aqueous solution containing bio-chelated silica. On it own this fermented bamboo extract helps improve the slip softness and aesthetic of the hair giving silicone elastomer like properties but without the heavy product build up typically associated with silicones.
Keratin
• Hydrolyzed Keratin from wool*
• Derived from a sustainable and natural source • Due to its molecular weight, hydrolyzed keratin does not
penetrate the hair, but plates out to form a tenacious film
• This film translates as increased shine and improved feel
• Provides conditioning benefits
*Vegan version also available
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The next material included in our complex is that of hydrolysed keratin. Here the keratin used is obtained from sheep’s wool however we have also developed a vegan version utilising hydrolysed protein from soy, corn and wheat as I am aware that some brands cannot use any animal derived products even if the animal itself is not harmed in the production process. By hydrolysing keratin we increase its substantiate the hair. The molecules being large, approx. 2000 daltons are not able to penetrate the hair shaft but rather plates out to form a tenacious film. Keratin is another material well established in consumer consciousness as its film forming properties translate well into increased shine and improved feel on the hair. However it is not just the properties of the keratin and bamboo in isolation which interest but how this complex works together with our next ingredient.
• Cross links free carboxylic acid groups in the hydrolyzed keratin with the amine groups present in keratin hair fibres
• This enzyme found in Trametes versicolor is also capable of annealing disulphide bonds
• Helps enhance hair strength
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Presentation Notes
The last ingredient is an extract from Trametes versicolor a type of mushroom often found growing on the underside of trees. This colourful mushroom contains the oxidative enzyme laccase. This distinct heat activated enzyme cross-links free carboxylic acid groups in the hydrolysed keratin with the amine groups along the hair cuticle to create a stable network with the hair shaft. Further crosslinks are created by the bamboo bio-silicate to give a silica impregnated keratin polymer. By forming a scaffold around the hair shaft, which is bonded to the hair itself, a resistant seal is created preventing loss of colour molecules through physical diffusion.
LACCASE
LACCASE
HEAT
HEAT
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Presentation Notes
Here I just want to show how this cross-linked network is created and how it can be used in a range of different products. Firstly a shampoo and conditioner regime can be applied to the hair allowing the product to plate out across the hair shaft. As the keratin polymer is impregnated with silica it becomes more hydrophobic providing a protective seal which is more resilient to washing through hydrogen and ionic bonds thus helping to reduce the diffusion and loss of colour molecules. When the hair is dried and/or styled using heat appliances the laccase present in the Trametes versicolor extract is heat activated and cross-links the free carboxylic acid groups in the hydrolysed keratin with the amine groups along the hair cuticle. Further to this the laccase found in the Trametes versicolor extract is capable of annealing disulphide bonds which can help enhance hair strength. This creates a scaffolding around and bonded to the hair which provide long-term protective benefits from UV induced colour fade and thermal damage. This means that the product would also work well in leave-on conditioners and styling products to convey further protective benefits.
Study Protocol
• Ex-vivo studies conducted on human hair tresses
• Bleached blonde hair was dyed red (Redken)
• Treated with a base shampoo and conditioner vs a base shampoo and conditioner + 2% AC Kerazyme® Protect
• In order to simulate real life conditions the hair tresses were exposed to everyday factors such as washing, UV irradiation and heat styling
• Conducted using a blind protocol in order to limit bias.
Presenter
Presentation Notes
A series of ex-vivo studies were conducted on human hair tresses to evaluate the ability of this Kerazyme® Protect complex to provide perceivable benefits to the hair. In order to simulate real life conditions the hair tresses were exposed to everyday factors such as washing, UV irradiation and heat styling. Across all study protocols blonde hair tresses were dyed red, as this is the shade which shows the greatest level of wash-out. A control of dyed hair treated with a base shampoo and conditioner was compared to dyed hair treated with the same base shampoo and conditioner containing 2% Kerazyme® Protect. All studies were conducted using a blind protocol in order to limit bias.
Xenon-Arc Test
• Tests the light stability of products, such as pigments, dyes and inks
• Best available simulation of full-spectrum sunlight
• Includes ultraviolet, visible and infrared light
• Full spectrum xenon arc lamps can reproduce the damaging wavelengths of light encountered either indoors or outdoors
• Measured in Accelerated Fading Units (AFUs)
Presenter
Presentation Notes
Before under-going any efficacy studies we spoke to one of the worlds top manufactures of hair bleaches and dyes in order to evaluate the best methods for measuring hair colour fade. Just last month I saw that Unilever have applied for a patent on a method for assessing hair colour changes with rinse of products which analyses the rinse solution after washing for the presence of removed colour. As there is no standardised protocol we wished to find out which test would be the most effective and relevant for industry However, we were informed that the Xenon-Arc accelerated light exposure test is the most highly regarded method for this type of application and is used through out different dye and textile industries. This method was used for accelerated light exposure as it has been shown to simulate the spectral characteristics of daylight better than any other artificial light source. The control and treated hair tresses were exposed to 30 hours UV irradiation using the AATCC accelerated fading units (AFUs) model.
Control Control Control 0hrs 10hrs 20hrs 30hrs
Control
2.0% AC Kerazyme® Protect 7 Wash Cycles
Base Shampoo & Conditioner 7 Wash Cycles
2.0% AC Kerazyme® Protect 14 Wash Cycles
Base Shampoo & Conditioner 14 Wash Cycles
Hours of UV Exposure (AFU) N
umber of W
ash Cycles
Ex-vivo Colour-Fastness of Dyed Hair
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Presentation Notes
A microscopic examination of the hair tresses was then conducted on the Hirox 3D Imaging Digital Microscope. This gave photographic images for comparison of the dyed hair tresses washed 7 and 14 times, in order to represent 1 and 2 weeks’ worth of washing, and also at 0, 10, 20 and 30 hours of light (Accelrated Fading Units = AFUs) The results of the Xenon-Arc accelerated light exposure test have shown that both increased UV exposure and increased washing causes a perceivable loss of hair colour. However, when we compared tresses which have been treated with the 2% Kerazyme protect we can see increased levels of colour-fastness. It is quite clear that washing has the greatest negative influence on hair colour but that this is further exacerbated by exposure to UV.
Control 30hrs
2.0% AC Kerazyme® Protect 14 Wash Cycles
Base Shampoo & Conditioner 14 Wash Cycles
Colour-Fade Comparison Chart to show the influence of UV exposure and number of wash cycles on hair colour-fastness. Controls of dyed hair and dyed hair washed with a base shampoo and conditioner were compared to that of dyed hair washed and treated with a base shampoo and conditioner plus 2% AC Kerazyme® Protect
• Hair which has been exposed to 30hrs AFU and 14 wash cycles with the base shampoo and conditioner has very low colour fastness
• The blonde colour of the bleached hair can easily be seen where the base products have been used
• Hair treated with 2% AC Kerazyme® Protect has maintained its red tones
• The colour is closer to that of the original control dye
Presenter
Presentation Notes
In this closer view of the control samples vs the treated and test samples exposed to 14 wash cycles and 30hours AFU we can really see a difference in colour-fastness between the products. Here where only the base shampoo and conditioner have been used the colour has been almost completely stripped back revealing the original blonde hair colour. Conversely the tresses treated with the 2% Kerazyme Protect in the base shampoo and conditioner has better retained the hair colour, still appearing red and more closely resembling the control hair colour.
L*a*b Test
• In order to substantiate these visual results further quantitative data was collected in the form of L*a*b-values
• Three points per hair swatch were measured to give a mean value
• This was then analysed using the L*a*b scale to determine the colour light fastness of the hair samples
• L* = lightness therefore, as the L*-value increases it can be shown that the colour fastness decreases and the subsequent colour of the hair is faded
Presenter
Presentation Notes
We have then taken these visual results and used quantitative data to support our findings. This was done using a L*a*b Colour Analysis. L*a*b is a colour-opponent space with dimension L* for lightness and a* and b* representing the colour-opponents. Using computer software the microscopic images of the dyed hair tresses were analysed via the Lab scale in order to determine the degree of lightening caused by washing and UV irradiation. Here L* = lightness therefore, as the L*-value increases it can be shown that the colour fastness of the hair dye decreases and the subsequent colour of the hair is faded returning back to the original lighter blonde shade.
2.0% AC Kerazyme® Protect Base Shampoo & Conditioner
Lightening of hair colour expressed as (L* = Lightness) to show the influence of UV exposure and number of wash cycles on hair colour-fastness. Dyed hair washed with a base shampoo and conditioner were compared to that of dyed hair washed and treated with a base shampoo and conditioner plus 2% AC Kerazyme® Protect
Ex-vivo Lightening of Hair Colour
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Presentation Notes
Here we can see that over hours of UV exposure and with an increase in washing dyed hair becomes lighter as the L*-value increases. However, when comparing the lightening of the samples washed with only the base shampoo and conditioner to that of the samples also treated with 2% AC Kerazyme® Protect the L*-values show that the level of hair lightening is lessoned following treatment. After 14 wash cycles and 30 hours of exposure to intense UV AC Kerazyme® Protect reduces colour fade by 17.2% compared to when using only the base products. The results of this study supports the photographic evidence that AC Kerazyme® Protect provides colour protection.
Tenacity & Elasticity
• A Flexabrasion method was used to evaluate the effect of AC Kerazyme® Protect on the integral structure and properties of the hair
• Single fibre testing was performed via Favimat to assess the strength of the hair in terms of tenacity and elasticity
• 25 hair strands from each tress were tested in order to achieve a mean result.
• Tenacity gives the breaking strength of the hair where the lower strength needed indicates a weaker and more damaged fibre
• The Modulus of Elasticity gives the hair’s resistance to being deformed
Presenter
Presentation Notes
In this next study we are looking at the tenacity and elasticity of the hair in order to highlight how the hair’s strength is changed as a response to thermal styling. The dyed hair tresses were washed and air dried 14 times using the test and control products. The tresses were then heat styled using 20 passes of a Remington Ceramic Hair Straightener under standard conditions. The temperature applied was of the highest setting at 218°C. A Flexabrasion method was then used to evaluate the effect of Kerazyme® Protect on the integral structure and properties of the hair. Single fibre testing was performed via Favimat to assess the strength of the hair in terms of tenacity and elasticity. 25 hair strands from each tress were tested in order to achieve a mean result. Tenacity gives the breaking strength of the hair where the lower strength needed indicates a weaker and more damaged fibre. Force is applied to the hair strands individually until each strand breaks. The Modulus of Elasticity gives the hair’s resistance to being deformed. This method indicates the strength needed to increase the fibre length. To calculate this a force is applied on the hair causing elongation. This is expressed as the ratio change in stress to change strain as a fraction of the original hair fibre length. The greater the stress needed the more elastic and stronger the hair.
Dyed Treated with 2% ACKerazyme® Protect +Ceramic Straightener
Mod
ulus
of E
last
icity
0..1
0% (g
/den
)
Ex-vivo Modulus of Hair Elasticity Thermal Damage
Tenacity of the hair to show the influence of washing and thermal styling
Elasticity of the hair to show the influence of washing and thermal styling
Ex-vivo Tenacity & Elasticity of the Hair
Presenter
Presentation Notes
From these results we can see that hair treated with 2% Kerazyme®Protect has both improved tenacity and elasticity compared to hair which has only been washed using the base products. This indicates that the hair strength has been improved as it is less susceptible to the force applied. Here in the case of elasticity the hair which has been thermally styled, which is another highly damaging process effecting the structural integrity of the hair, has been improved vs hair which has not been heat styled at all. Therefore we can assume that Kerazyme® protect also offers protection against thermal damage to help maintain hair strength and flexibility.
Summary • A sustainable and natural material
• Creates a cross-linked network with the hair to provide a protective seal
• This helps to inhibit the migration of molecules in and out of the hair shaft
and so impede the process of dye loss • Ex-vivo studies support use of AC Kerzayme® Protect in hair care products to
reduce colour fade
• Simultaneously works to improve hair strength and condition
Presenter
Presentation Notes
So just to give a quick summary of our new material Kerazyme® Protect we are really focusing on producing a sustainable hair care product complexing natural extracts with potent efficacy. Our Bamboo, Keratin and Trametes versicolor work in synergy to create a stable cross-linked net work with the hair in order to produce a protective seal. This helps to inhibit migration of colour molecules out of the hair shaft during washing but also helps to protect from further UV and thermal induced damage. This also helps to maintain the integrity of the hair providing conditioning and strengthening properties. To accompany this we have a dossier of ex-vivo studies providing quantitative and visual data.
3. Blyumin, y., Konig, B. & Weber, D. (2014) ‘Colour Protection for Hair Care Products’, Household and Personal Care Today, Monographic Supplement Series: Hair Care, Vol 9 (2), pp 4 – 7
