KANCHENJUNGA TO MAKALU GHT TREK NEPAL 2015 PART 5

DAY 16 Yak camp to Selap (2400m) and Olangchung Gola (3208m). Rained all night but let up by 8 AM when everyone finally emerged from their water-soaked tents. Had the basic rice and dhal baht for breakfast with coffee, stans freeze dried eggs. Skies broke to partly cloudy and we packed up water-soaked gear with a now positive countenance and began the descent through hemlock and bamboo forests. I was ahead again, but the trail took many forks leading to different small yak pastures scattered on the steep cliffs. It was not easy to pick the right trail since there were so many equally and slightly worn. I chose a wrong dead-end yak trail that turned vertically downslope steeply ending 300 meters vertically below in a small pasture right above a sheer cliff. I had to work my way back up, hoping to find the small main trail, hearing the porters yelling in the distance. They got lost too. Once back to the fork, I chose the other trail and continued to slip and slide down the narrow mud pathway.

The remote Tamur River in the early morning, revealing a Shangrila of wild forests

Beautiful clouds hung over the peaks and valley, and soon the sun briefly broke through the clouds, allowing shafts of light to paint the green and blue distant peaks. It was a truly Shangri-La setting in the Himalayas. It became one of the most beautiful scenes of the trip worthy of a painting. The clouds closed off the sun and I continued the descent through large tan oak trees sections mixed in bamboo forest. Here there was a documented red panda population recorded by a recent WWF research team.

Old growth bamboo, buff barred warbler, wild red panda (sichuan, China)

Descending waterfalls from the forest on the upper Tamur River Started raining again, and we slipped and fell through the steep clay trail and were covered with mud, laughing part of the way. I could appreciate these beautiful sections

of tan oak, chestnut, maple, bamboo, and some huge gigantic fir (Abies) trees with epidendric lichens and moss draped from the branches. Water droplets flowed from the tips of lichens, creating such an enchanting setting, and the steady wind moving through the forest, blowing the hanging lichens like creation’s prayer flags, reminding me of the book of Acts and how the Holy spirit moved like a rushing wind through the apostles gathering. I had never seen anything quite like this. In sheltered areas along the way we came across flocks of warblers that must have been moving up to the breeding grounds, including as many as 200 Buff-barred, Lemon-rumped P. chloronotus and Greenish Warblers P. trochiloides. This exceptional forest is also densely covered with Rhododendron on the uppermost slopes (up to 3410m) and lower with mixed broadleaved forest including Rhododendron and bamboo stands stretching to the valley bottom at 2430m. We passed through more old stands of bamboo forests in this remote valley that was a refuge for the red panda, now protected in this conservation area. I thought I had heard a panda earlier, or so I thought, but it could have been the squealing of a squirrel. Wet, and Stan was soaked and quite exhausted from the day before, we finally made it to the beautiful Tamur River (2400m), a wild and magical forested valley of huge trees, with rhododendrons beginning to bloom and myriads of waterfalls cascading from the cliffs surrounding us. The trail now joined the larger trail that led to Olangchung Gola up the valley. It rained hard for the next three hours as we ascended the roaring Tamur River cascading through a narrow smooth rock gorge. So many waterfalls pouring off the high rock cliffs, and combined with mist floating along the slopes, it created a living Chinese watercolor of mist, mountains, forest and water.

Waterfalls were swollen with the unusual spring heavy rains and snowfall. The trail crossed a suspension bridge to the other side of the river, and we walked along sections that dropped through amazing narrow rugged canyons along the north bank of

Thasa Khola and walk through an old growth coniferous forest before entering Yangma Khola valley. Ascended the trail while it continued to down pour rain, and soaked ascended a large barren gravel slope failure, a large land slide that had partially blocked the river. Once above the slide and back into the forest, we took in the view of many waterfalls cascading more than 300 meters (thousand feet) to the river below. One falls must have dropped 500 meters (1500 feet tall) through the forested cliffs, the tallest yet seen.

Yellow primulas, yellow rhodadendron

We were now at 3000 meters (9940 feet), having climbed above the roaring Tamur River falls. The trail then broke in a gentle ascent along the river and after 6 more kilometers of walking we finally reached Olangchung Gola. Stan and Ethan were shaking and wet, suffering from mild hypothermia as their rain parks were not waterproof. We were led to an interesting tea house, built with stone by a Tibetan immigrant who came here in 1959. We sat by a small smoky fire in a cold wooden room

that leaked rain, then enjoyed soup, dal baht, and yak tea. The drafty room was too small to really get warm, but we were thankful to make it here, coming through such a difficult two days of rain and snow. We are ready to go home.ha-ha..I fantasized about it along with Stan and Ethan imagining 5 course meals we would eat, with salads, salmon, potatoes. I miss my wife terribly and am discouraged by this rotten weather, snow storms, and mud and rain. The weather in April is supposed to be dominated by clear skies, but climate change has impacted the monsoons. This might very well block our progress towards Makalu. Tired and by 9 pm I crawled into my sleeping bag to rest, thankful for making it through the past two days.

Shared a fire and Tibetan flat bread as guests, in a home.

Olangchung Gola (3208m) is a beautiful Tibetan village with around 45 houses, and a 465 years old monastery (gompa) with golden manuscript, the oldest in Nepal. Olangchung lies near the Tibet Border to the north, and surrounded by mountains with Sikkim to the east, and is locally known as Walung, which is comprised of the five major settlements of Olangchun Gola, Yangma, Ghunza, Lungthung, Lelep. Trade is the major occupation of Walungs, and herding yaks and dzos, sterile hybrids of cattle and yaks.

Their religion, language, dress and social patterns are Tibetan in derivation. Gola means means "market" in the Walungge, the local language of Central tibet, and historically Tipta la pass connecting the area with Tibet was an important trade route. The large and lavishly furnished gompa (monastery) and village is studded with chorten (stupa), mani walls and prayer wheels. The Bhutias of Upper Tamur practice a much more orthodox pattern of Buddhist culture than any of the Limbu community of the Arun valley. Historically, the senior monk would also invite Tibetan monks from Lhasa to provide teaching in this monastery. Lhosar and Futuk are the main festivals, which the people celebrate with full pomp and show.

Oldes gompa (monastery) in Nepal, 465 years old. Tibetan Buddhism include religious festivals of Lhosar, Neso, Futuk, Sakadawa, Dhukpachhesi and Ngyungnay

Phutuk festival dances depicting the Wulung conquests, Latter photos courtesy of Adrian Bottomley

Lhosar means New Year and usually falls during the month of February. During this period the major Buddhist monasteries and stupas are decorated with prayer flags. During this festive season people perform their cultural dance and welcome the New

Year with feasts and family gatherings. The Futuk festival brings masked dancers that enact various scenes, including a scene depicting a battle between the local Maksum Gyabo and the Gyabo of the neighbouring Thudam area. Walungs celebrate with great fervor the social and religious festivals of Lhosar and Phutuk.

This gompa practices the Nyingma tradition, and we are told it is the oldest of the four major schools of Tibetan Bhuddhims. Nyingma literally means "ancient," and is old schoo because it is founded on the first translations of Buddhist scriptures from Sanskrit into Old Tibetan in the eighth century. The Tibetan alphabet and grammar was created for this endeavour.

The people of Olangchung are Tibetan in origin and are more associated with Tibetan culture from across the border since they are so far removed and isolated, one of the most distant villages from a road than any other area in Nepal. Olangchun Gola used to rule a relatively large territory overlapping parts of Eastern Nepal and Tibet. Today they still trade goods from Tibet through Tiptala La (5095m), however, increasing constraints imposed by the Chinese government (including border closures) make this commerce more and more difficult, and the village is shrinking. Many have moved to Darjeeling India. All houses are built in traditional manner with a stone base, walls made of wood panels, and roof constructed with wood tiles. Almost every house has a small balcony with an incense burner on its outer corner. The stone base is often covered with drying yak dung patties that are later burned in stoves. DAY17, April 19. Olangchung Gola (3208m) Rest day. Slept well and deep, waking up by 7 am. Clear skies. We all decided that with good weather, to press on towards lumbha sumba pass three more days ahead at 5200 meters. It will take quite an effort, and there will be lots of snow but we hope to finish the entire traverse. Dried out clothes after breakfast, then walked the river on the way to the 600-year-old Buddhist monastery, the oldest in the Taplenung area. Overgrazing of yaks and removal of the forest by cutting was causing the river to expand and cut away the banks at the edge of the village, posing a serious threat of destroying all the homes there. We followed lines of prayer flags flapping in the wind leading to steep steps to the temple that overlooked the village and surrounding mountains. Prayer wheels lined the entrance way, and once we were allowed to go inside, it reminded me of some of the catholic churches I was in in Peru, South America, but with statues and effigies of buddha, and drums, masks hung on the wall used for the mask dance in October. A monk met us through the request of our guide and I learned more about the Dali Lama blend of Buddhism and animism associated with its superstitions. We returned to our tea house and Stan bought a goat for the porters as a gift. So, we had goat stew later that evening. Read my bible outside in the sun in the field overlooking a steep cut on the river, and the young daughter of the tea house owner

came to talk to me. She saw I had my bible out and I read to her part of Colossians 4 with me. Amazing God appointment as she saw the Holy Bible for the first time and began asking me more questions about what it meant. I shared the gospel, then I prayed for her a blessing and hunger for the Lord. God moved as she is only 12 years old. She wanted a bible for herself, and first asking permission of her father, who consented, I gave her Ethan’s bible later that day. She was so excited and was learning some English in school.

Day18, April 20 Monday. Olangchung Gola (3208m) to Sanjung camp Upper Langmale - (3893m) Left Olangchung Gola 8 AM under clear skies and followed the stony trail along the Tamur Nadi River for 5 kilometers. There was so much erosion from tree cutting and landslides, and much of the village will fall into the river. So much trash dumped at the edge as well, sad. We are heading to Thudam that takes three days from Olanchungola over the Lumba Sumba pass, a route so hazardous that few locals venture across it.

Ascending the upper Tamur River before crossing over to Langmale, in the distance

We passed through complete wilderness, and stone cairns marked the way. Entered a beautiful fir forest of rhododendrons and an understory of azaleas and primroses as we left the upper Tamur River and turned west to ascend the Dingsamba Khola. We continued through now stunted rhododendron and azalea meadows in a broad valley that leads to Lumba sambah khola. This is a beautiful place of dwarf forest, budding rhodies and pure yellow primulas. After a short day, we saw many birds near our camp

Squirrel, Himalayan goral

Long tailed thrush, white browed bush robin

Longmale forest

at 3800 meters (12,590 feet) in a Juniper forest that included a male Rufous-breasted Bush Robin Tarsiger hyperythrus, Long-tailed Thrush, and three Himalayan Goral Naemorhedus goral approached the forest edge. Clouds appeared and soon overcame the blue sky, creating

a nice cool breeze. Ascended past langmale, and settled in a beautiful camp Sanjung, a meadowed snow forest that is at the edge of a large steep boulder scree. Snow covered unnamed peaks surround us were partly veiled by clouds. Amazingly beautiful place

Langmale forest

Langmale camp with surrounding yaks grazing

with a stream passing through, but the north facing slope we needed to ascend was heavy with snow. I was thankful for good weather and our camping site above Upper Langmale (3893m). It is a beautiful evening tonight with clear skies but low clouds over the peaks. The porters and I gathered dry firewood, which was plentiful here and we made a wonderful campfire, the first one of the trip that made great memories. This was the best camping spot of the whole trip for me. No wind and the stars came out so bright against a deep black sky. I explained the earth’s orbit around the sun and the galaxies to the guide, which he translated to the porters. Laughter and good conversations by the bonfire where I stayed up late as the coals glowed red and yellow, and prayed, thanking the lord for such a beautiful night. I worshipped in songs of praise, filled with Gods presence. Best night of the past two weeks and I reflected on past campfires shared with the kids. Wonderful memories.

DAY 19 April 21 Tuesday. Sanjung camp (3893m) to Pass camp (4747m). Clear morning and woke up 6 AM to witness the peaks summits glowing in crimson red and orange. So nice to have slept well in the tent on my comfortable sleeping pad, fleece liner and sleeping bag. We had about another 900 meters (almost 2000 feet) to climb ahead of us, but there was deep snow ahead that had not yet melted from the past weeks snow storms. I felt rested, strong and no altitude problems.

White-capped robin redstart, Tibetan snowcock

The trail ascended through boulder strewn meadows and rhododendron thickets covered in snow. Walking along the stream I found such a precious time in prayer with the Lord. Surprised grouse-like snow partridges, birds with white rump that scooted into the rhododendron thickets. Heard and studied a white capped robin redstart, flittering along the stream. It had a long melodious undulating song, and flitted about while bobbing its body and wagging its tail, displaying its white cap, black body and wings and red body underparts. It was such a cheerful songster. Such a beautiful day, surrounded by peaks 5000-6000 meters covered in snowfields. We encountered increased snow depth as we ascended, having to kick steps through deep drifts and again having to posthole through 4-foot-deep drifts. Exhausting work

and an arduous day. I empathized for the porters with heavy loads as they plowed and fell even deeper into soft snow into rock crevices, potholing even deeper to their hips. A British trip operator with a crack team of Sherpas followed us, but didn’t lead since they didn’t know the way. Our guide did all the work breaking trail through the soft snow, leading us across a huge flat and small lake that soon depleted our energy. Everyone now exhausted under a hot sun that was melting the snow, so we rested for an hour. Today is Stans birthday so I gave him my most precious food item, the last snickers bar of the trip, and wished him happy birthday. We again continued up a steep slope, reaching an alpine basin covered with at least 4 feet of fresh snow from the past week. No good level place to camp, so we pitched our tends at the edge of large boulders next to an ice-covered slope of sharp gravel and rock saturated with groundwater from melting snow.

Approaching Pass camp at 4747 meters (15,726 feet) with everyone exhausted Everyone with soaked legs and boots from the snow, and tired but we all set up camp quickly. Our porters are amazing, hauling heavy loads 35 kg (77 pounds), cooking, and serving us. Yes, they are conditioned to high altitudes, but it still was difficult for them. That evening clouds again moving in and out by evening at 6 PM the crew served up dinner, even a small cake for Stan as today it was his birthday. the British crew camped with us and the Sherpas baked him an orange marmalade cake, and gave him a bottle of Chinese fruit liquor. Tried a shot and it burned. We got laughs out of everyone. So tired. We must get up at 4 AM and break camp to ascend the pass under hard snow conditions before it get softened with the sun. Didn’t get much sleep that night.