june 2014 dining design · 2017-06-13 · 6 june 2unun0 w 2e1u0n notes prince v an orangiën inn...

DINING&DESIGNI N T E R N A T I O N A L

june 2014

Welcome to

Fine Dining & Design

- the place where the world

comes together in Sweden

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fine dining & design

COnTenTS

3 eDITORIALS

4 nOTICeS

8 We WOn – AnD THe OTHeR nORDIC COunTRIeS GOT THe TOP PLACInGS

14 HÄRInGe CASTLe A HOTeL FOR eVeRYOne

21 FIne DInInG TRenDS

27 nORDIC SeA WIneRY – A SWeDISH WIneRY WITH BIG AMBITIOnS

32 LAPLAnDIC DeLIGHTS In jOCKMOKK (Sweden´ s far north)

37 HOW TO MAKe A CLASSICAL BRAS-SeRIe – MeTROPOL PALAIS

40 LInnÈA, ARTWORKS AnD FOOD

44 GRILL AnD BRAnDY – juST In TIMe FOR SuMMeR

47 SuMMeR!

50 SWeDenS VeRY BeST BARTenDeR – RIKARD eneLL

52 SIn In MÖLLe…

60 SVenSKT Tenn (The Swedish Pewter

Store)

64 AW AnD A PuB CRAWL WHen IT RAInS

67 WHeRe THeRe´S SMOKe…

71 THe neWLY InAGuRATeD neW HAnDICRAFT BReWeRY In STOCKHOLM

14 37 52 6027

WHO ARe THe CHAîne DeS RôTISSeuRSThe Chaîne des Rôtisseurs is an international gastronomic society for both professionals and amateurs , with roots that stretch back to the year 1248. The society is represented in about 70 countries and has more than 25000 members worldwide. From its headquarters in Paris the organization is headed by President Yam Atallah In 1959 the Balliage de la Suéde was founded by amongst others Tore Wretman. In Sweden there are 14 associations, so called Balliage (Bailliwicks) which is individually responsible for its own program of activities. Coordination, administration and international contacts are taken care by a national committee under the leadership of Bailli (Grand Bailiff ) Délègue. One of the society’s strong points is the international membership which allows them to make use of the fantastic network and offers possibilities to take part in any event at all, wherever and whenever over the whole world.

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Swedish summer – Can there be anything better?

FFor us who live in this part of the world known as Scandina-via, there is nothing better than the Nordic summer. Around the clock daylight, an opportunity to enjoy our wonderful na-

ture and all of its delicious raw produce in the shape of berries and fruits that mother nature provides us with.

In this issue of Fine Dining & Design, we´ll learn more about Trends in Fine Dining and exciting innovations that are contemporary for 2014, but totally different in their implementation. The first example comes from Gothenburg in the west and the other from Umeå up north.

We’ll take a closer look at Häringe Castle, travel to Jockmokk in Lap-land, and also visit Linnéa’s restaurant in Gothenburg. We’ll enjoy strawberries and visit the reconstructed Metropol Palais in Stockholm as well perusing Swedish pewter on the Strand promenade.

Sweden also has a large, new winery in Simrishamn so we’ll check that out too.

As is our custom, we pay tribute to the winners of various competi-tions, amongst others, Sweden’s best bartender who was recently na-med in Copenhagen and will be attending the World Championships being held in Scotland this summer.

LeDARe

OVe CAneMYR

Editor-In Chief www.finedining.se

PS Let us know about friends and acquaintances who you think would like to receive a copy of Fine Dining.

eDITOR In CHIeF

Ove Canemyr

[email protected]

Fine Dining/Trendsetter Box 24013,

104 50 Stockholm

eDITORIAL

Anne-Marie Canemyr,

Carl Wachtmeister

Catarina Offe

Lotta Jonson

ART DIReCTOR

Sophie L Slettengren

[email protected]

enGLISH COPY

Roger Brett

[email protected]

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new foodstuffs and so on. Contact: [email protected]

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Cover photo: Anne-Marie Canemyr

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fine dining & designnOTeS

BuRGeR TRenDS In THe WORLD Right now, the hamburger is a steadily growing trend in the world and everyone has their own inter-pretation of just how it should be. Just in time for the outdoor terrace season at Peter Nordin’s continen-tal bistro cafe in Kungsträgården (the King’s Garden in downtown Stockholm). The Bar Burger Cafe has a personal atmosphere with Broadway-inspired ceiling, hand crafted tiles from Amalfi and French cafe furniture. All this in ad-dition to well-made burgers from beef, lamb, chicken, fish and vege-tables, and the classic Rockefeller, with oysters and mussels; salads and a full compliment of Italian ice cream,made from carefully select-ed raw ingredients complete the menu. The True-Burger consists of four different cuts of Angus beef which is ground daily, sauces ac-cording to their own recipes and homemade bread. Bar Burger Café will be open all year round.

Fine Wines very own homepage

w w w.f inewine.nu Here you’ll find the last 4 editions of Fine Wine

GRILL AnD BRAnDY Herb-infused spirits are part of our Swedish drinking culture and a natural choice during celebrations like Christ-mas, Easter and Midsummer. Flavoured spirits can be enjoyed as a taste en-hancer; flavoured schnapps marries up particularly well with grilled food.

Just in time for the BBQ season PRIMA Grill has launched five hand-picked varieties of flavoured schnapps - O.P Anderson, Östgöta Grain brandy, Hal-land Elderberry, Läckö Castle Aquavit and Herbal Vodka - each with its own flavour profile and personally selected by the Kryddmästare (herb master) Jo-nas Odland. All marry particularly well with grilled food. The unique flavour compounds in the different varieties enhance and amplify the flavours of the food they are served with. Many believe that these spirits are too strong to have with food but the problem is not the brandy, rather the bad habit of pouring large iced schnapps straight down the gullet. Instead, Jonas advises us to sip and really taste the schnapps and enjoy the flavors of food and drink together with every raised glass.

MATHIAS DAHLGRen ReCeIVeS MeDAL The St Erik medal has been awarded since 1938 by the Stockholm City Council to deserving local residents. “Those who, through their business or actions, are considered to merit an award from the City.”

The medal is submitted in conjunction with the fes-tivities in the Blue Hall of the Stockholm City Hall on May 18th, Erik’s Day. The medal is named after Sweden’s patron saint St. Erik, and who is also featured on the Stockholm City Crest.

http://www.finewine.nu

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PM HOTeLS Award-winning restaurant PM & Friends in Växjö, opened its new-ly built PM Hotel, with 74 unique rooms and suites this May. This is a first class hotel with an interna-tional character based on the gas-tronomic profile and image that PM & Friends has created in respect to food, service and their wine cellar.

“It’s a dream come true,” says Per Bengtsson, one of the founders of PM & Friends. “For more than 20 years we have developed a first class restaurant in Växjö. In recent years the idea of supplementing it with a hotel has grown stronger and now we are finally there,” says Per.

“Our philosophy is based on three pillars - forest, meadow and lake - where we want to show off what our stunning country and its landscapes can offer. We have our culinary ‘Småland’s’ style which includes techniques and textures from both the classic and the mod-ern kitchen.”

MATHIAS’S GReen RAB-BIT RYe BAKeRY Martin Berg and Mathias Dahlgren have finally opened the doors of the Green Rabbit Rye Bread Bakery in the old ‘Smörkringlans’ (Buttered Pret-zels) premises in Stockholm.

Martin and Mathias have worked to-gether for more than ten years and share the vision of making innovative and inspiring food available to more and more people. A step towards that ideal is the new bakery, where rye is the focal point rather than sour dough which has been popular in recent years.

“I’ve always been incredibly fond of bread. It requires love, knowledge and lots of experience,” said Martin. “Through the recruitment of Tina Fern-lund as operations manager, we can be certain that we’re baking bread with the same high standards we em-ploy in our cooking,” he adds.

The bakery will primarily be baking first class rye bread, but also a range of bread made from other Swedish cereals. The bakery can seat ten for lunch but also sells sandwiches and cakes to take-away.

FOCuS On LOCAL PRODuCe In DALARnA In Rättviks in Dalarna exciting things are hap-pening. The traditional Flatbread Bakery founded in 1957 has resurfaced in new premises on Vasa-gatan 12 in the same premises as the old General Store. And there is the old Gärdeby Trading post whose decor and advertising from yesteryear are also on display inside.

Now you can experience how tuttul bread is baked almost every day (www.tuttul.nu). On Fridays they bake kavel buns hand-made in the Stenungen (stone oven) just as they did over a hundred years ago. Of course, everything can be seen, viewed and purchased on site. In the old Handelsboden (General Store) situated in the entrance to the bakery you’ll find currentlylocally produced chees-es, sausages, spices and beverages. They’re plan-ning to brew their own beer later this year.

Check it out if you’re in Sweden and near there.

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PRInCe VAn ORAnGIënInn Keepers Oak / Green from the famed Oaxen Pub & Slipway, now have their own floating hotel which was brought from the island of Oaxen and is now moored above Beck Holm Bridge on Djurgården in Stockholm just opposite the tavern.

The Prince Van Orangiën (Prince of Orange), a very prestigious vessel, was built in 1935 from Vahali teak in Gendt, Holland, and no expense was spared. The decor consists of oak, ebony, rosewood and Belgian slate and five different kinds of marble.

The Prince van Orangiën was originally the home and office of a Dutch ship-owner who sailed around Europe in the mother ship of his flotilla. It was meticulously man-aged and maintained by its former owners and was a private residence until 2007.

“We are the fourth owners and have been very careful in our efforts to transform Prince Van Orangiën from a home to a small and very private hotel,” say Magnus and Agneta.

The Captain’s Cabin, the Owner’s Cabin and the 1st Mate’s Cabin all have an area of about twenty square meters and were extremely stylish and comfortable. The Owner’s and the Mate’s cabins had private decks as well. There are also three smaller cabins measuring about ten square meters.

Breakfast is included and an overnight stay aboard the hotel ship is probably an optimal experience even for the most discerning ‘passenger’.

STeFAn KARLSSOn’S neW TAVeRnGSK Food & People in Gothenburg has opened. At the end of last year Ste-fan Karlsson closed his Michelin Star restaurant called Fond. It was not to take it easy but rather to re-open.

“SK Food & People” is a restaurant far from the white tablecloths and silver cutlery. With the open plan kitchen and our chef’s table we want to create a relaxed atmosphere,” says Stefan. The furniture is made of walnut, the floors are of oak and flagstones which also contributes to the atmosphere.

“In connection with the Chef’s table, we installed a beautiful fireplace, - a real jewel. The kitchen is completely open, and the guests are able to ex-perience the fragrances and aromas at close quarters.”

It is of course also the personal ser-vice which is a bit beyond the ordi-nary. A visit that is simple, pleas-urable and personal. The menus are short, and the chefs are on hand to respond directly to diners’ questions. As at The Fond, the Swedish food heritage reigns supreme. Ingerdients are entirely seasonal – a policy which is sacrosanct

“If you have an interest in cook-ing, don’t hesitate to book in for a course,” Stephen adds.

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GATMAT SWeDen OPenS ITS FIRST FOOD PARK On BRunKeBeRGSTORGGatmat has received a unique assignment from the City of Stockholm to estab-lish Sweden’s first food park to open on Brunkebergstorg. Named the Elephant Food Park, it will become an avant-garde food and music fair in a forgotten park in central Stockholm.

When the Elephant Food park opens it will offer visitors a varied selection of food from mobile food vendors and bars. DJs and a larger music venture in col-laboration with the Online company Luger will provide entertainment.

“It feels fantastic to be part of creating the first Swedish Food park in the little tucked-away park Brunkebergstorg, a place that has long deserved a little recog-nition,” says Martin Lagerberg, one of the founders of the food park.

The Elephant Food Park will provide a permanent home for Stockholm’s mobile food vendors (food trucks) with 4-6 parking spaces. The park will be open seven days a week and will feature mobile food vendors, a gazebo restaurant, bar, seating for 250 visitors and a stage. An area of the park that won´t be used by food vendors will feature an ambitious cultural program.

“In collaboration with the booking agency, the Culture Department and other stakeholders, we will fill the park both day and evening with activities, music and other diverse experiences. There will be podcasts, live shows, after-works, dj-set, design markets and endless fun!” says Martin Lagerberg.

The project is implemented with the support of the City of Stockholm and is be-ing promoted by design studio Guringo.

The scheduled opening is on Friday 27th June.

THe WORLD GOuR-MAnD AWARDS 2014 At this year’s ‘Cookbook World Cup’ in Beijing, Sweden was once again very successful. Six Swedish food and beverage books are now en-titled to use the prestigious ‘Best in the World’ epithet on their book jackets.

Our world-famous champagne ex-pert Richard Juhlin won the fine distinction of being inducted into the Hall of Fame for his magnificent work ‘A Scent Of Champagne’.

Maj-Lis Hellström and Bo Hagström won in the category of Mediterra-nean cuisine, with Sun’s Health and Roy Fares in the category of Ameri-can cuisine with the United States of Cakes.

Second Prize in the category of Scan-dinavian food, went to Lisa Lemke with ‘Everything In A Pot’, and in the entertainment category Edward Bloom with ‘Everything Good And Way Too Much’.

The recipes provide a palette for quality of life. Eat healthy and tasty for good health, be comfy and put everything in the same pot; chill out occasionally with your favourite food, and eat cake with champagne!

nOTeS

WOuLD YOu L IKe TO HAVe YOuR OWn ISSue OF F Ine D In InG In YOuR e -MA I L - FRee OF CHARGe?

PLeASe GIVe uS An e-MAIL TO [email protected]


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We WOn – AnD OTHeR nORDIC COunTRIeS ReCeIVeD TOP PLACInGSTExT: CATARINA OFFE PHOTO: EWA SäFWENBERG, SUSANNA ÖSTERLIND, JONAS BERG, DENNIS ERIxON, CATARINA OFFE,

CARITA WALLMAN LARSSON

The Bocuse d’Or Europe 2014 competition took place over

a two day period in May and the arena was packed from the start.

Twenty teams from across Europe competed in the European Cham-pionship to win a coveted place in the World Cup. Admittedly, it was the very best, well-known chefs who had the largest stake in the contest, but nevertheless the competition called them ‘teams’ which, apart from the Chef him-self, consisted of a coach, com-

neVeR HAS THe ROOF OF B-HALL AT THe STOCKHOLM InTeRnATIOnAL TRADe FAIR Been SO CLOSe TO LIFTInG OFF In A WAVe

OF euPHORIA.

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mis and assistant chefs. They all had an extremely well-equipped kitchen at their disposal and the competition area also boasted a generous press area for the hund-reds of journalists present. VIP lounges were there for the sole use of sponsors, bleachers for Swedish and foreign supporters who cheered favourite teams on from morning til night.

Outside the competition area a very exclusive pop-up restau-rant was erected – ‘The secret of Swedish Terroir’. Here we were treated to dishes from Lake and Meadow, Forest and Sea. The res-taurant itself was well patronized - a place where you could meet

friends and colleagues, both old and new, and the atmosphere was friendly and electric.

The competition brief was to create a fish and a meat dish of the highest standard. The raw produce was to be Swedish and unique to the contest. Coalfish is a pretty normal Swedish fish but in Tommy Myllymäkis’s hands it becomes a great delicacy with brown butter and horseradish. The meat course was created from the hind quarters of a Swedish piglet and Tommy followed the prevai-ling trend by using everything

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OuTSIDe THe COMPeTITIOn AReA A VeRY exCLuSIVe POP-uP ReSTAuRAnT WAS

eReCTeD – ‘THe SeCReT OF SWeDISH TeRROIR’

and cooking ham in four different ways. It was, of course, excel-lent with judges testifying to the fact. I was fortunate to have had the opportunity to taste at one of Tommy’s training sessions.

The victory for the Swedish team was well deserved. Tommy has a knack for nailing the right flavours and he is extremely competitive. Tommy’s meat dish garnered more than 600 points; he received a total 1164 points, which put him 56 points ahead of the runner-up, which is of course a staggering victory. Afterwards Tommy said his training has been “one long trip of constant doubt” and that he is never quite satisfied.

“Now all that remains is being in the unenviable position of be-ing the favourite right up to 2015 where everyone taking part in the World Cup will be out to beat me! The team’s efforts have been unbelievable and we’re all very

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happy of course, but they all look absolutely exhausted!”

The honorary president of the competition was Mathias Dahl-gen, winner of the Bocuse D’Or in 1997. Fredrik Eriksson did all the heavy work - he came 7th in the Bocuse D’Or 1993. Both of them are well-known and award-win-ning Swedish chefs, in addition to which they are also members of the culinary world of Chaine des Rotisseurs. Even Henrik Nor-

ström, the president of Tommy’s team, is a Chaîne member. A bril-liant effort by Paul Smith, 5th in the Bocuse D’Or 2003 together with journalist Lydia Capolicchio who compered both days of the event from morning to night. Paul handled the English language part of the competition as if he had ne-ver done anything else. Our chefs really have many strings to their bows, and the rest of our impres-sive Swedish chef brigade was in place, each carrying out different

THe VICTORY FOR THe SWeDISH TeAM WAS WeLL DeSeRVeD. TOMMY HAS A KnACK FOR nAILInG THe RIGHT FLAVOuRS AnD He IS exTReMeLY COMPeTITIVe.

CATARInA OFFe

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roles in the competition. Agricul-ture Minister Eskil Erlandsson and Sweden’s ‘Foody Prince’ H.R.H. Carl Philip who visited Tommy in the training kitchen, were both enthusiastic participants in the Swedish cheerleading squad.

Sweden has actively taken part in all the Bocuse D’Or events since its inception in 1987. We have won a medal 5 times, otherwise we have always had a top 10 pla-cing. In this year’s and 2011’s competition the Nordic countries took all the medals. This year it was Sweden, Denmark and Nor-way, with 4th place going to the founder country France. Finland seized fifth place and Iceland se-venth. How about that?!

Although Paul Bocuse himself said that fine cuisine has moved to Scandinavia, he was represented at this event by his son who said “I wish my father were here to ex-perience this”.

SWeDen HAS ACTIVeLY TAKen PART In ALL THe BOCuSe D’OR eVenTS SInCe ITS InCePTIOn In 1987

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This spring you have the possibility to buy rare bottles at Systembolagets online auctions in collaboration with Stockholms Auktionsverk at magasin5.auktionsverket.se.

Auctions this spring:

3 – 5 March at 1 pm

7 – 9 April at 1 pm

12 – 14 May at 1 pm

9 – 11 June at 1 pm

Good newsfor Connoisseurs

Auctions this fall1 -3 September7 – 9 October12 – 14 November8 – 10 December

http://www.magasin5.auktionsverket.se

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HÄRInGe CASTLe A HOTeL FOR eVeRYOne TExT: CATARINA OFFE PHOTO: CATARINA OFFE, HäRINGE SLOTT

PAuSe FOR A MOMenT AT THe START OF THe AVenue LeADInG uP TO THe PALACe GATe AnD GReeT THe FLAnKInG LIOnS WITH A

MODICuM OF ReSPeCT. HAVe A quACK WITH THe DuCKS In THe POnD TO THe RIGHT AnD MAKe A SMALL GenuFLeCTIOn TO THe

COLOSSAL BOuLDeR TO THe LeFT THAT MARKS WHeRe AxeL AnD MARGueRITe WenneR-GRen ARe BuRIeD.

When you arrive at the gates you’ll see two cannons,

pansies in generous pots, an ash tray of sparkling glass stones that hides even the dullest of cigarette butts and a slate blackboard an-nouncing that the castle is open. It hasn´t always been like this.

When the castle’s owner Jenny Ljungberg came here the first time,

she was met by a little boring con-ference facility with a multitude of regulations and restrictions. It was a castle that was more locked than unlocked, and when it was unlocked a list of rules as long as your arm ensured your visit was uncomfortable. Despite this, Jen-ny saw the potential. She was just 24 years old and her father, who

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worked for a real estate company, told her it was for sale. She had no prior experience or knowledge of how to complete a purchase of this magnitude. Despite this, or perhaps because Jenny has lived half her life abroad, she was brave enough to take on the deal. Along with the hotel c / o The Maidstone on Long Island outside New York, Häringe also received the c / o epithet which means “care of”. It is this way that Jenny want guests to perceive their stay at the castle. They should feel welcome, enjoy themselves and feel like they are in residence. Guests are welcome to bring their children and their pet dogs with them. She has torn

down walls, opened doors and created a unique lounge feel th-roughout the castle. On every wall hangs modern art and photograp-hy, alongside the old oil paintings, stuffed owls and antlers and the gilt-framed portraits. Wildlife and beach scenes from the fifties are recurring subjects, although the most spectacular scene in the main dining room represents the contents of Andy Warhol’s bath-room cabinet!

jennY HAS MAnAGeD TO TRAnSFORM THe ‘FuDDY DuDDY’ COnFeRenCe CenTRe InTO A 4-5 STAR HOTeL

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Despite its impressive history it is an unpretentious castle. The history alone makes it even more exciting to stay here. It dates back to the 11th century, though the present castle building is about th-ree hundred years old. The most famous owner in modern times was the wealthy bachelor and par-tygoer Torsten Kreuger, who built an Olympic-sized swimming pool and had a slide from his bedroom

right down into the pool. There remains no photographic evi-dence of that because it was con-sidered somewhat embarrassing. Krueger’s friends Axel and Mar-guerite Wenner-Gren were regu-lar guests and when the Kreuger wealth disappeared, they bought Häringe Castle as their summer retreat. Their guests were celebri-ties from around the world. Eliza-beth Taylor and Greta Garbo lived there during their summer stays in

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WILDLIFe AnD BeACH SCeneS FROM THe FIFTIeS ARe ReCuRRInG SuBjeCTS, ALTHOuGH THe MOST SPeCTACuLAR SCene In THe MAIn DInInG ROOM RePReSenTS THe COnTenTS OF AnDY WARHOL’S BATHROOM CABIneT!

Sweden. Garbo’s room was speci-ally built with no corners because she loathed right angles.

Marguerite, who came from Mex-ico, loved dogs with a special penchant for Chihuahuas. She had 23 of them as well as 2 young deer kids in her bedroom. The dogs are now buried each with their own tombstone under the pine tree on the way down to the tennis court. When Axel died Marguerite went back to Mexico, never to return. Her butler at Häringe later retrie-ved her ashes and she now rests with her Axel under the stone out-side the castle.

Häringe’s manager emptied the castle of all its antiquities and en-ded up in prison. The subsequent owner, Olle Hartwig, has devoted much time and money to buying back many of these items so that the castle now stands in its former glory.

Naturally, as a castle, Häringe also has its share of ghosts. A monk wanders around in the monastery interior, which was smuggled by boat from Scotland to Sweden and

installed in the Chinese Room. In the red velvet chair there is always the imprint left by ‘someone’ who has been sitting there.

It isn’t hard to keep yourself amu-sed during a stay at the castle. In addition to the smooth functio-ning of the conference center, ac-tivities include tennis, bowling, petanque, swimming in the pool, forest hikes and boat trips. To the left of the castle are the great sta-bles with Sofie’s Icelandic horses. Hotel manager Hedvig Wilander plans a luxury riding weekend in co-operation with Forsgård ri-ding. There will be ‘after stall’ and good food. On Fridays there is club activity with a DJ and a di-rect bus from town.

But if all that is not your thing, you are perfectly free to do ab-solutely nothing. You can come for afternoon tea, served daily with delights from Häringes own kitchens. Or just come here to

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sunbathe, swim, or enjoy a Rivi-era-inspired lunch on the veranda with a glass of Italian rosé bubbly and all of this “without having to spend the night,” says Jenny. The hotel is perfect for all wedding re-quirements.

The hotel’s special hallmark is that dogs are extremely welcome. Maybe Jenny has some kind of dog family connections to Mar-guerite. A dog coach can take care of your problem dog and after training all the dogs eat dinner together in the dining room from their own dog menu. Häringe celebrated a fireworks-free New Year, and most recently there were 135 guests and 35 dogs swarming around the castle’s rooms. Both guests and dogs behaved in an ex-emplary fashion!

THe HOTeL’S SPeCIAL HALLMARK IS THAT DOGS ARe exTReMeLY WeLCOMe. MAYBe jennY HAS SOMe KInD OF DOG FAMILY COnneCTIOnS TO MARGueRITe.

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It is my firm belief that there is no total experience without food. The castle hotel manager and former chef Jacob Berlin and the head chef Liam from Ireland, have a mutual philosophy - Slow Food. They offer international cuisine with Swedish ingredients such as seafood, trout, deer and wild boar. The à la carte menu has three star-ters, main courses and desserts and everything is well-prepared and delicious. The castle has in-troduced ‘Meatless Mondays’ and the chefs are very skilled at crea-ting delicious vegetable dishes. The wine list is augmented by the castle’s apple juice pressed from their own apples. At harvest time the Castle hires casual labor from the City Mission which provi-des homeless people and addicts an opportunity to work and earn some money. The juice is served cold in summer, warm in winter and as an alternative to wine all year round.

Jenny has managed to transform the ‘fuddy duddy’ conference centre into a 4-5 star hotel and has that rare ability of being able to both build and manage, so the castle is in good hands. Her life on both sides of the Atlantic is cer-tainly a strength when it comes to introducing a little ‘un-Swedish’ style into the ancient pile. Jenny is the trademark, an entrepreneur who dares to stand up and follow her heart. When the time is right shehopes to have more children, more dogs and a horse. I’ll stop here even though I have more pages in my notebook. Häringe Castle is an experience that can-not be written down in full.

KRueGeR’S FRIenDS AxeL AnD MARGueRITe WenneR-GRen WeRe ReGuLAR GueSTS AnD WHen THe KReuGeR WeALTH DISAPPeAReD, THeY BOuGHT HÄRInGe CASTLe AS THeIR SuMMeR ReTReAT

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YOUR RECRUITMENT PARTNERS WITHIN FMCGWITH FOCUS UPON IMPORTERS

Since 2000, Sikta Urval, a company within the Sikta Group has been

a strategic partner in FMCG.

Regardless of whether you are seeking staff or you yourself are working within the industry and you want to take a

look at something new then Sikta can be your partner. In the initial phase all consultations are free and strictly confidential.

Over the years we have contributed in finding absolute Leaders in their field. We have clients that we

been associated with for more than 10 years. We have seen little small operators go on to be industrial leaders within just a couple of years.

Part of their success is of course the personnel.

We HeLP:

Producers, Wine & Spirits importers / HoReCa & Food operatives.

We ReCRuIT:

Product managers / Brand Managers / Senior Brand Managers / Account managers / key account managers / Blenders / Managing Directors / Sales and marketing

Managers and Others.

You can always just contact us. Or let us contact you, email or text me and we will get back to you immediately.

www.sikta.se Andreas Flyckt [email protected]

+46 70 725 48 36 direct or +46 8 678 00 00



http://www.sikta.se


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FIne DInInG TRenDSTExT: LOTTA JONSON PHOTO: FOTOGRAF ÅKE E-SON LINDMAN, KOKA/ERIK NISSEN JOHANSEN, GOTTHARDS KROG

WHeRe SHALL We GO? WHAT IS IT THAT DeTeRMIneS THe SeLeCTIOn OF A ReSTAuRAnT? THe PRICe, THe DeCOR, THe SeRVICe,

THe DReSS CODe? WeLL CeRTAInLY nOT THe FOOD, AnYWAY. HOW ABOuT THe HIP FACTOR MAYBe? BeCAuSe ReSTAuRAnTS ARe

ALSO RuLeD BY WHIMSICAL FADS, TRenDS THAT COMe AnD GO.

We have visited two newly designed restaurants in

two cities: Gothenburg’s Koka and Gotthard’s in Umeå. The two are listed under completely dif-ferent interior concepts, yet they do have a common denominator. The décor of both factors in their geographical locations to give character and enhance the dining

experience - the port city of Goth-enburg, and Umeå with its river that empties into the ocean. In de-scribing the interiors, words like ‘salt spray’, ‘relaxed rustic’ and ‘ruggedly fancy’ are used. The results are two typically contem-porary examples but nevertheless as different as night and day. One

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trendy. For us the ‘West Swedish’ was all about finding a certain rus-tic character - not too delicate, and using natural materials with a lot of wood,” says Jonas Olsson.

Wide planks were used on the floor as well as on the walls. The tabletops were covered with unt-reated rough leather instead of ta-blecloths. The comfortable chairs were designed by Staffan Holm and ‘Ascent’, the table lamps create a warm ambience and were designed by Daniel Rybakken. Both designers have a studio in Gothenburg. So now that everyth-ing is in place it is clear that the ”Ascent” is the icing on the cake. At Koka. the lamp consists of a single aluminum cap mounted on a thin arm of cast steel and rubber and is easily turned on or off.

Guests create the very atmosphe-re they wish to have at the table, whether it be intimate and myste-rious or more well-lit. The lamp has become a veritable conversa-tion piece. “The mandatory warm light is not needed here,” says Jo-han Olsson satisfied.

classically restrained, the other trendier than the actual trend.

Koka is located a 10 minute walk from the Avenue in central Goth-enburg. It has a star in the 2013 Michelin Guide and has been awarded ‘International Master Class’ in the White Guide. When restaurateur Björn Persson wan-ted to refurbish the restaurant at the beginning of the year, the inte-rior design contract went to Born-stein Lycke Fors Architects under the watchful eye of Björn Pers-son, whose mantra is ‘Modern Western Swedish Cuisine’. Apart from the food the architects could interpret the words quite freely. The ‘cuisine’ part of the promise means to use as much produce from local producers as possible.

“A design job such as this is of-ten about creating a contempora-ry feel, which is not the same as

We HAVe VISITeD TWO neWLY DeSIGneD ReSTAuRAnTS In TWO

CITIeS: GOTHenBuRG’S KOKA AnD GOTTHARD’S In uMeå

23


Koka can seat 34 diners, each ta-ble (with two exceptions) is for two people only which makes for a cozy atmosphere. For larger groups they join tables together with extension leaves that hang on the walls when not required. This way they can seat 52 people in to-tal. There are strange nooks and crannies clad in mirrored glass making the room feel much larger. An unexpected but exhilarating Alice in Wonderland feeling oc-curs when you suddenly happen to peek into a corner.

Muted colors of burgundy, brown and warm amber generate a warm and comfortable atmosphere. The cutlery is placed in position on the tables, on top of the menu which is

printed on paper in the same pale green as the retained antique glass roof’s undercoat. I settle down to choosed between mackerel, white asparagus, morels from Airdrie, lamb from Bitterna, wild garlic ... the homemade bread is placed on an untreated wooden board, with newly churned butter in a small stone foraged from a west coast beach somewhere.

One of the strong interior design trends in the restaurant industry in recent years is industrial vintage. You know, worn out rooms where, for example, pipes and ventilation ducts are plainly visible beneath

KOKA IS LOCATeD A 10 MInuTe WALK FROM THe AVenue In CenTRAL

GOTHenBuRG. IT HAS A STAR In THe 2013 MICHeLIn GuIDe AnD HAS

Been AWARDeD ‘InTeRnATIOnAL MASTeR CLASS’ In THe WHITe GuIDe.

24


the ceiling. The coarseness has a genuine and timeless feel to it, but in fact it is mostly fake; pre-tending that the decor is old when in fact it is brand new - just like in Disney World! To over decorate is another contemporary trend. So-metimes combining both styles: industrial brutality and a bunch of stuff often motivated by so-called storytelling.

Specialists amongst the storytel-lers are to be found at Stylt Tram-poli who have designed more than

400 restaurants around the world over the past twenty years. Story-telling means letting the whole of the interior concept be based upon a story, an historical person if pos-sible.

Gotthard Zetterberg in Umeå as an example. When the story is formulated Stylt Trampoli write a script about the whole story, which must then be followed to the letter. In the script there are explanations for everything from menu selection to wallpaper de-signs. Gotthard’s Tavern is one such story.

Erik Nissen Johansen, Stylts Trampolis founder and creative director, says: “Everyone loves and understands a good story. There is always a story that distin-guishes something that is unique and which one can base a success-ful concept upon. The challenge is to be able to see it.” (From an interview published on www.svid.se)

SPeCIALISTS AMOnGST THe STORYTeLLeRS ARe TO Be FOunD

AT STYLT TRAMPOLI WHO HAVe DeSIGneD MORe THAn 400

ReSTAuRAnTS AROunD THe WORLD OVeR THe PAST TWenTY

YeARS

www.svid.se

www.svid.se

25


Asked if a question about the story is more important for the pub than the menu, Sami Nissen Johansen responded in the journal Focus Pub No 1/2011: “Several studies show that the same food is percei-ved to taste differently depending on the environment in which it is served. You don’t have to have the best food in town for people to say that the best food is there.”

In Umeå it´s an exciting story about the maritime town on the Gulf of Bothnia, and Gott-hard who ran away to sea but in 1895 became the cellar master in the combined City hotel and Seaman’s Mission on the Ri-ver Ume. Nowadays glasses are raised in his honour amongst the ship’s port & starboard lanterns, the seagulls, the conch shells , the hour glass and bits of rope in the newly decorated restaurant. Here the décor flourishes - real or fake is irrelevant.

There are weekday evenings when the restaurant is rather quiet but generally they are kept busy ser-ving diners. I overhear comments from new guests as they enter the long, narrow room. “Oh, ama-zing! This is so cool.” Everything here is theatrical, it’s like walking into a display cabinet with lots of curios I hardly noticed before. The colors are dull dark blue and brown with details in polished brass. The several-metre-long plush sofa is crowned by a carved skull, octopuses can be seen on

the walls and the specially desig-ned blue-white porcelain features a sailing ship.

Gotthard’s restaurant seats about 120 people in total. Half indoors, the rest in the glazed courtyard - but it’s spectacular.

The menu includes dishes with exotic names: Iwo Jima, New York, Barcelona, Buenos Ai-res, Panama and others, though the ingredients, as much as pos-sible, will be local. The cloths are wrinkled, white napkins made of sheeting which has been torn to size. Fancy but Rugged.

When I spoke to Jonas Olsson, who furnished Koka in Gothen-burg, he agreed with Erik Nissen Johansen in that many restaurant owners have a tendency to overes-timate the food’s appeal. There are few restaurants, he says, says that are purely food driven. Some may instead be ‘socially driven’ ins-tead. You go there to eat a simple pasta carbonara and socialise. At the same time he is beginning to see a tendency that more and more people understand the environme-ntal importance of the restaurant’s appeal. It is important of course, to have both a pleasant environ-ment and good food.

“It’s the collaboration between the food and ambience that wins in the long run,” says Jonas Ols-son.

He calculates that a restaurant’s interior has a life of about six or seven years. Koka will surely stand the test of time; the question is whether the Gotthard Zetterst-rom story will.

26


Alkohol i samband med arbeteökar risken för olyckor.

www.janake.se

VILLA RIGHETTI RIPASSOART.NR 76308, 13,5%VOL,

750ML 119KR

RIPASSO INNEBÄR ATT VINET HAR GENOMGÅTT

EN ANDRA JÄSNING MED PRESSRESTER FRÅN

EN ANDRA JÄSNING MED PRESSRESTER FRÅN

EN ANDRA JÄSNING

VINTILLVERKNINGEN AV AMARONE. FÖR VILLA RIGHETTI RIPASSO ÄR

DENNA METOD GJORD TVÅ GÅNGER OCH DET DENNA METOD GJORD TVÅ GÅNGER OCH DET DENNA METOD GJORD

GER DÄRMED VINET MER KRAFT MED

EN KARAKTÄR SOM PÅ MINNER OM

AMARONE.

DUBBELRIPASSO!

FYND!

”VARM, KNÄCKIG, VIDÖPPEN OCH INBJUDANDE, APELSINFRUKTIG DOFT. APELSINFRUKTIG DOFT. LÄTT, SMÅSTRÄV, LÄTT, SMÅSTRÄV, URSPRUNGSTYPISK URSPRUNGSTYPISK SMAK I TREVLIG, LÄTTSAM, SMAK I TREVLIG, LÄTTSAM, ÄNDÅ STRINGENT, ÄNDÅ STRINGENT, URSPRUNGSTYPISK STIL.”URSPRUNGSTYPISK STIL.”

http://www.janake.se

27


nORDIC SeA WIneRY – A SWeDISH WIneRY WITH BIG AMBITIOnSPHOTO: ANNE-MARIE CANEMYR

On 10TH june, THe nORDIC SeA WIneRY WAS OFFICIALLY OPeneD In SIMRISHAMn AMOnGST GReAT POMP AnD CeReMOnY.

The doors were thrown open to the public who can now enjoy

a superb restaurant and wine bar, which initially will be open Mon-days to Fridays. Opening hours will be adapted to the number of visitors and you can find out about that at www.nordicseawinery.se.

You can also have a guided tour, take part in wine production, wan-der around the vineyard (current-ly with two hectares of Chardon-nay and Pinot Noir) and visit the barrel cellar. One can also partici-pate in wine tastings and you can book it all directly online.

Oenoforos Group started the Nordic Sea Winery in Simrishamn in 2008. It is a modern winery that processes, stores and bottles wi-nes from around the world, among them a couple of the most well-known wine brands presently sold throughout Scandinavia, England and the United States.

www.nordicseawinery.se

28


By moving the entire end produc-tion to Sweden created significant environmental benefits (including less trucking as the grape juice is shipped in containers to the port of Helsingborg) and simultaneously create stricter quality control, and last but not least, it will also gene-rate local employment. The cost of this giant project to date is 500 million Swedish crowns.

The basic idea came from Takis Soldatos who is CEO of Oeno-foros Group which has vineyards of Tuscany, Italy and South Afri-ca. Because of this they can re-fine, store and bottle wines from around the world right here in Sweden. A super-modern labora-tory is on site. Chief Winemaker and senior manager is Denis de la Bourdonnaye (former cult wine-maker from Chablis).

By producing wine from South African grape juice in the spring and Italian grape juice in the fall, you get an even production flow all year round - a smart move for

IT IS A MODeRn WIneRY THAT PROCeSSeS, STOReS AnD BOTTLeS WIneS FROM AROunD THe WORLD

TAKIS SOLDATOS

29


profitability and something com-pletely new to the industry.

The restaurant section is designed and run by Takis Soldatis him-self. With this Sweden has acqui-red a winery of international class with a restaurant and bar and hotel nearby. In other words, a new de-stination for tourists from far and wide to visit from now on.

We all look forward to an excit-ing summer in Simrishamn.

BY PRODuCInG WIne FROM SOuTH AFRICAn GRAPe juICe In THe SPRInG AnD ITALIAn GRAPe juICe In THe FALL, YOu GeT An eVen PRODuCTIOn FLOW ALL YeAR ROunD

30


The Chaîne des Rôtisseurs is an international gastronomic society for both professionals

and amateurs , with roots that stretch back to the year 1248. The society is represented in

about 70 countries and has more than 25000 members worldwide. From its headquarters

in Paris the organization is headed by President Yam Atallah In 1959 the Balliage de la

Suéde was founded by amongst others Tore Wretman. In Sweden there are 14 associa-

tions, so called Balliage (Bailliwicks) which is individually responsible for its own program

of activities. Coordination, administration and international contacts are taken care by a

national committee under the leadership of Bailli (Grand Bailiff ) Délègue. One of the soci-

ety’s strong points is the international membership which allows them to make use of the

fantastic network and offers possibilities to take part in any event at all, wherever and

whenever over the whole world.

http://chaine-des-rotisseurs.net

31


GREAT COMBINATIONSC A R LS B E RG SV E R I G E Ä R STO LT S PO N SO R T I L L Å R E TS S E RV I TÖ R ,

Å R E TS Ö LU T V E C K L A R E , SV E N S K A BOC U S E D ’ O R A K A D E M I E N , W H I T E G U I D E T R E N D S E M I N A R ,I N T E R N AT I O N A L BA R M A N AG E M E N T OC H BA RT E N D E R C H O I C E AWA R D S .

D E SS U TOM D E L ÄG A R E I STOC K H O L MS OC H SV E R I G E S N YA E X P E R I M E N T V E R KSTA DOC H Ö L - E L D O R A D O : N YA C A R N E G I E B RYGG E R I E T.

carlsbergsverige.se

http://www.carlsbergsverige.se

32


LAPLAnDIC DeLIGHTS In jOKKMOKK - SWeDen’S FAR nORTHTExT: CATARINA OFFE PHOTO: CATARINA OFFE

juST ABOVe THe ARCTIC CIRCLe In LAPLAnD, LIeS THe LITTLe TOWn WITH THe unuSuAL nAMe OF CARDIFF WITH ITS FIVe THOu-

SAnD InHABITAnTS.

Centrally located next to the hotel is a cafe situated in a

green house with the exotic name of Gassaks. In Laplandic Gassaks is a bush that when burnt saves the lives of frozen souls in the wilder-ness. Kristoffer Åström, who is a Sami, cook and handicraft artisan works in the café. “My father is also a craftsmen and my grandpa-rents own reindeer.”

After his chef training Kristof-fer worked in restaurants around Sweden and Norway. When the only and now-defunct apprentice-ship in Sami artisan food was clo-sed down, it was only natural for Kristoffer to do something about it. He was by inheritance and ha-bit already knowledgeable about

33


In LAPLAnDIC

GASSAKS IS A BuSH

THAT WHen BuRnT

SAVeS THe LIVeS OF

FROzen SOuLS In THe

WILDeRneSS.

the Sami culture, the raw produce and the cooking, so he used all of his training to experiment with in-gredients and cooking methods, to find ways to reconcile the old Sami food traditions with the future.

There was a great need for this, because the Laplandic Sami tra-ditions have mostly been passed on between generations orally, so very little is written down. Here Kristoffer also met Malin Strömbäck and when she and Vi-dar Segerstrom opened the Café Gasskas in Jokkmokk Kristof-fer wasn’t slow in tagging along. Since then he has created Sami dishes in Gasskas which is now a pub with higher ambitions than the café. During the low season, they only open on Fridays and then opening hours are extended

in time with the seasons. Regard-less of the opening hours, here you can have both genuine and more modern Sami dishes. A traditional reindeer meal involves a number of different dishes from different parts of the reindeer such as heart, tongue, marrow bone, grated liver and reindeer broth, and the main course which is a reindeer steak. It is entirely consistent with the Sami tradition to utilize the entire animal. The stomach may become a receptacle for storage and the skin, of course, makes a warm pelt to sleep on.

34


Sami food is not just pure and clean, there is also a wealth of raw materials that you won´t find any-where else - coldwater fish, game birds, moose, mountain herbs and berries. Kristoffer’s dishes are of-ten a cross over with Sami ingre-dients, except vegetables, which come from further away. ”It gets a little to narrow otherwise,” he says. He applies the typical Sami preservation methods like drying, pickling and smoking, for ex-ample, smoked cloudberries.

He serves Soavas with 65 degree egg, slow-baked pork with al-mond potato puree, steamed veg-etables and reindeer consomeé or acidified birch soup with smoked pure topside. Guests literally come from far and wide. From the native Jokkmokks residence just around the corner to foreign vi-sitors from across the globe. And once they come, they will glad-ly return. When Gasskas Goes Big,as it surely will, it will offer a complete dining experience, with themes like ”Fire & Soot” or ”Gasskas Sushi” made from with local produce with a Sami inspi-ration, fish, game bird in exciting combinations and variations.

The raw materials come, as I mentioned, from around the cor-ner and when Kristoffer serves his self-caught fish he is happiest. Fishing is not only work, but also fills a large part of Kristoffer’s lei-sure. “What do you do on vaca-tion,” I ask and he is quiet for a while. “To practice craft is always fun.” Kristoffer doesn’t differen-tiate between work and leisure - being a handicraftsman and coo-king Laplandic food is simply his life.

SAMI FOOD IS nOT juST PuRe AnD CLeAn, THeRe IS ALSO A WeALTH OF RAW MATeRIALS THAT YOu WOn´T FInD AnYWHeRe eLSe - COLDWATeR FISH, GAMe BIRDS, MOOSe, MOunTAIn HeRBS AnD BeRRIeS.

35


Jokkmokk has been appointed Food Lands Capital for 2014. It is of course fun but doesn’t make much difference to Kristoffer. He does what he has always done. But, he admits, “We are creating a Jokkmokk Plate with special-ties from the area” which he ho-pes will be served at most of the restaurants in the village. Kristof-fer is a bit vague about the menu but smoked and pickled reindeer, some smoked fish scales and a tra-ditional fresh buttermilk cheese from Skabrams dairy made from unpasteurised milk from moun-tain cows all seem to be probable ingredients. And it will be good enough for me. I’m just grateful

to be able to take advantage of all that Sami cuisine has to offer and it’s people like Kristoffer that make it possible.

He APPLIeS THe TYPICAL SAMI PReSeRVATIOn MeTHODS LIKe DRYInG, PICKLInG AnD SMOKInG, FOR exAMPLe, SMOKeD CLOuDBeRRIeS.

FROM THe nATIVe jOKKMOKKS ReSIDenCe juST AROunD THe CORneR TO FOReIGn VISITORS FROM ACROSS THe GLOBe. AnD OnCe THeY COMe, THeY WILL GLADLY ReTuRn.

36


http://www.visitstockholm.com

37


HOW TO MAKe A PuB – MeTROPOL PALAIS TExT: CATARINA OFFE PHOTO: CATARINA OFFE, METROPOL

FOR SALe: An IMPReSSIVe HOuSe In THe CenTeR OF STOCKHOLM WITH An equALLY IMPReSSIVe InTeRIOR, A WeLL-uSeD COn-

FeRenCe FACILITY WITH ADjOInInG BAnqueTInG HALL.

WAnTeD: An InVITInG ReSTAuRAnT WITH FRenCH CLASSICAL BRASSeRIe FeeLInG OPen TO ALL COMeRS.

38


THe Menu IS SO CLeARLY FRenCH, MODeRn CLASSICAL FRenCH CuISIne.

THeRe’S FOIe GRAS, BOuILLABAISSe, STeAK TARTARe, CRePeS SuzeTTe.

Who do you ask for help if not ‘The Grand old boss’

Roland Persson, Chef of the Year in 1990 and with a whole gene-ration of restaurant experience. “Everything must be right but a lot can go wrong,” he concludes.

First, a concept, such as good standards and pricing. And then the food and staff. “The staff is the trickiest,” Roland says. You have to have good key people and here they are all handpicked. You have to be loyal to the concept and not work with your own agenda. The guests have to be happy when they go home and cherish the me-mories.

The premises have undergone a major renovation, the former banqueting hall kitchen has been turned into a pub kitchen with its specific logistics. The banqueting hall features red carpets, ornate murals and beautiful stucco. And in the kitchen - gadgets, lots of gadgets, reminiscent of a Paris as it used to be.

The menu is so clearly French, modern classical French cuisine. There’s foie gras, bouillabaisse,

steak tartare, crepes suzette. The pork comes from France’s oldest breed of pigs, Noir de Bigorre, li-ving wild and eating grasses and herbs in the foothills of the French Pyrenees. The Russian caviar has been replaced by Carelian Caviar from sturgeon farms in Finland. This spring the menu has featured asparagus, in the autumn it will be mushroom season.

Roland really wanted to be a chef and has never regretted it, even though he really didn’t know what it entailed. “Though in the early seventies, it wasn’t much fun,” he acknowledges. The Res-

39


taurant standard wasn’t exactly on top, and at times I despaired,” he adds.

But then things started to happen. Gunnar Forsell opened Grappe d’or in Stockholm and Leif Man-nerström and Christer Svantesson started Johanna in Gothenburg. Both had good reputations - it was the beginning of the restau-rant landscape that we see to-day. Young Roland co-founded Victoria or ‘Vicky’ which was Stockholm’s hot spot for several years. Over the years, the super-stylish Grands French Dining, ”French” as the initiates said, Roland’s home-made lamb sau-sage was a success on the menu.

“It was expensive as sin,” said Roland, “but we had regulars who came here just for that,” he re-calls. So it became Carl Mikael on Djurgården, a crude Swedish ta-vern, then the tavern at Bonnier´s Konsthall. “I’ve had fun all the time and haven’t been out of work for a single day,” says Roland. He also harbours strong feelings about the craftsmanship that goes into making sausages and cheeses. Herbs, beans and lentils are also on his menu, and he has written books about them with tasty reci-pes. Just before Metropol, Roland made an excursion into the con-sumer side of the counter and de-veloped the great fresh food hall in the Flygfyren grocery store in Norrtäljegatan, known far beyond the Norrtälje city limits and the winner of the Golden Cow of the Year for the best food enjoyment store.

In addition to pottering about in his own herb garden, Roland has become the hunter and part of the hunting team which only includes cooks headed up by Sven-Åke Larsson.

“When we’re hunting, we are not competitors, just hunters in a very special group,” explains Roland. He doesn´t have any favourite haunts. “Sitting in a hide at five o’clock in the morning I simply listen to the silence.” Roland dis-covers new things, develops them and moves on. And if, against all odds, he should tire of his profes-sion, he could be a carpenter or maybe a photographer.

“And I usually help Melker An-dersson with his Christmas din-ner! Last Christmas we made six-ty thousand”, says Roland as I’m on my way out.

“I’Ve HAD Fun ALL THe

TIMe AnD HAVen’T Been

OuT OF WORK FOR A

SInGLe DAY,”

40


LInneA, ARTWORKS AnD FOODTExT: CATARINA OFFE PHOTO: CATARINA OFFE, LARS ARDARVE

I VISITeD LInneA KOnST & MATen ReSTAuRAnT In GOTHenBuRG THe ReSTAuRAnT BeARS THe FOunDeR’S DAuGHTeR’S

nAMe AnD THe ART SPeAKS FOR ITSeLF.

As I enter I see nothing but glass, all of it Swedish and

preferably from Kost Boda, re-presenting glass artists like Kjell Engman, Ulrika Hydman-Vallien, Bertil Vallien and Ingegerd Ra-man. Everything is for sale and they recently sold a Vallien Boat for 200,000 Swedish crowns. I hope he carried it home carefully after spending a whole evening in the pub!

Personally I would almost make do with the violently popular skull lantern by Ludvig Löfgren. The glassware is spread out throug-hout the restaurant, even the rest rooms are no exception. The ti-les are of custom artwork and the sinks are exquisite in frosted glass with a molded fish.

41


In THe FIne DInInG SeCTIOn THeY ARe OFFeRInG A Menu OF eIGHT TO SIxTeen COuRSeS THAT TAKeS BeTWeen FOuR TO SIx HOuRS TO enjOY

And then comes the food. Lin-nea is now divided into two di-ning rooms. In the Fine Dining section they are offering a menu of eight to sixteen courses that ta-kes between four to six hours to enjoy, but it is also innovative, daring and offers nothing but surprises. Not only are the di-ners extremely happy, but this is also the staff’s very own cuisine playhouse. Chefs from around the world carry out experiments in the mornings when the restaurant is quiet. Here everything is possible, but to a limited number of guests. The pleasure and desire from the bistro menu is infectious with its steak tartare which is their signa-ture dish.

The bistro has a capacity for two seatings, each with ninety guests and usually it’s packed. Although the raw steak is a classic, the menu contains other interesting flavour combinations. Amongst the prin-cipal raw materials we find clas-sics like cod, trout, prime rib, ox cheek and spare ribs, but these are all well known. There are also flavor combinations that we never knew existed which just have be experienced. Lobster served with iced cranberries and brown butter cream, duck liver with cabbage and meringue, the red caviar is smoked and served with cauliflo-wer and dill cream. For dessert it may be browned butter cream, chanterelles milk foam, blueberry

42


ice cream, roasted pistachio and semolina. Make of it what you will. If you think they are a bit overwhelming then there’s Bana-na Split or a chocolate truffle.

The kitchen is small and extre-mely tidy. The chef’s own paint box is a colorful battery of spices in their neat glass cases. There is no division between the hot and cold kitchens - they all work to-gether, ten people at the same time requires a well thought out logis-tics plan when the pressure in the dining rooms is at its highest.

The man behind this is an ac-claimed rising star, winner of the Annual Werner award. National

Culinary team member, five-time semi-finalist in the Chef of the Year, Edin Dzemat. Edin is a per-fectionist and very goal-oriented

Everything he does has to be top quality. Dividing his time in the restaurant with the Swedish nation culinary team is tough but Edin sees it as an asset. Seven times a month, he trains with the team in Stockholm. “It’s nice to get out of this bubble,” says Edin, and every time he brings something back home with him to the benefit of the pub and its guests.

To keep fit, he trains several times

THe MAn BeHInD THIS IS An ACCLAIMeD RISInG STAR, WInneR OF THe AnnuAL WeRneR AWARD. nATIOnAL CuLInARY TeAM MeMBeR, FIVe-TIMe SeMI-FInALIST In THe CHeF OF THe YeAR, eDIn DzeMAT

43


a week, eats a healthy diet and re-wards himself when there is time. Edin has a liking for fast cars - he likes Porche. “If the pub does well it might be a Ferrari,” Edin says wistfully. “If you work hard and it goes well, you are well worth a reward.” Edin originally comes from Bosnia-Herzegovina, his mother was farm girl and from the age of 12 Edin learned the basics of Swedish cuisine in Småland. If he hadn’t become a Chef he might have been a “hairdresser or archi-tect”. He says Road to Linnea was paved with jobs in the very best restaurants which include Noma in Copenhagen. Speaking of the hard school of ambitious chefs “I’m a tough devil, when I arrived at Linnea I turned the whole place upside down,” he says, looking ra-diantly happy. “You have to have fun at work and be happy with the result.” In the future there will be more flavour influences from the Balkans on Linnéas’s menus and “perhaps I can repeat this concept in Stockholm, New York and Du-bai.” After meeting Edin nothing seems impossible.

In THe FuTuRe THeRe WILL Be MORe FLAVOuR InFLuenCeS FROM THe BALKAnS On LInnéAS’S MenuS

44


GRILL AnD BRAnDYTExT: CATARINA OFFE FOTO: MAT&VIN, SLOTTSPARKEN

Flavoured spirits can be en-joyed as a taste enhancer; fla-

voured schnapps marries up parti-cularly well with grilled food.

Just in time for the BBQ season PRIMA Grill has launched five hand-picked varieties of flavoured schnapps - O.P Anderson, Östgöta Grain brandy, Halland Elderberry, Läckö Castle Aquavit and Herbal Vodka - each with its own flavour profile and personally selected by the Kryddmästare (herb master) Jonas Odland. All marry parti-cularly well with grilled food. The unique flavour compounds in the different varieties enhance and amplify the flavours of the

HeRB-InFuSeD SPIRITS ARe PART OF OuR SWeDISH DRInKInG CuLTuRe AnD A nATuRAL CHOICe DuRInG CeLeBRATIOnS LIKe

CHRISTMAS, eASTeR AnD MIDSuMMeR.

45


food they are served with. Many believe that these spirits are too strong to have with food but the problem is not the brandy, rather the bad habit of pouring large iced schnapps straight down the gul-let. Instead, Jonas advises us to sip and really taste the schnapps and enjoy the flavors of food and drink together with every raised glass.

FLAVOuReD SPIRITS CAn Be enjOYeD AS A TASTe enHAnCeR; FLAVOuReD SCHnAPPS MARRIeS uP PARTICuLARLY WeLL WITH GRILLeD FOOD.

46


F I N E W I N E o n yo u r R e a d e r Pa d

N ow ’s t h e t i m e to f i l l u p yo u r re a d e r p a d w i t h s o m e co nte nt .

Yo u c a n d ow n l o a d Fi n e Wi n e a s a Pd f f i l e a n d re a d i t o n t h e re a d e r.

P l e a s e p a s s t h i s o n to f r i e n d s a n d a cq u a i nte n ce s .

w w w. f i n e w i n e. n uS u p p o r t o u r O p e rat i o n

to i n fo r m a b o u t Fi n e Wi n e s Take a chance and give yourself and your friends a long lasting present.

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Februari2014I N T E R N A T I O N A L

två strålande stjärnor på valdeorras vinhimmel sid 6

fräscha drinkar attmöta våren med sid 41

sid 6 besök hos två strålande stjärnor på valdeorras vinhimmel sid 13 anteprime di toscana i ny tappning sid 18 sött vitt från mytomspunnen ö sid 23 fine wine producer of the year 2014 sid 25 peter thustrup om auktionen i stockholm 3-5 mars sid 30 närproducerat in i minsta detalj sid 35 tanniner och tuffa viner i toro sid 40 alkohol i valrörelsen sid 42 fräscha drinkar att möta våren med sid 53 senaste nytt i beställningssortimentet

fine spirits – collectable investments sid 54 courvoisier – napoleons egen konjak sid 56 cardhu – den sjunde mest sålda single malt whiskyn

Webauction special: paGe 57 webauction special a new season of drinks as collectibles paGe 60 peter thustrup – auction in stockholm 3-5 march paGe 63 whisky ... yesteryear, today and ...tomorrow ! paGe 65 sotheby´s

WebAuction special I N T E R N A T I O N A L

sött vitt från mytomspunnen ö sid 18

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SuMMeR!TExT OCH PHOTO: CATARINA OFFE

In SWeDen, SuMMeR IS SYnOnYMOuS WITH STRAWBeRRIeS WHICH We LIKe TO eAT OuT OF THe CARTOn OR WITH MILK AnD

SuGAR, THen WITH ADDeD CReAM AnD ICe CReAM. THIS YeAR THe FIRST STRAWBeRRIeS WeRe ALMOST Ten DAYS eARLIeR THAn

nORMAL Due TO THe MILD WInTeR AnD THe WARM WeATHeR In MARCH.

John Bjersjö of the Bärfräm-jandet (National Strawberry

Council) says, “No Swede wants to experience a midsummer wit-hout Swedish strawberries. Well this year they won’t have to. The-

re will be enough strawberries for all of us.”

Nowadays strawberries are grown in tunnels so our season is exten-ded, from May through to Sep-tember.

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And why do they have to be Swe-dish strawberries, some might ask? For the taste, all strawberry lovers will say. The light and the difference in temperature between night and day gives us more fla-vour. During the night the straw-berries retain their sugar, and the greater the difference between day and night time temperatures, the sweeter the berries. That’s why the northern strawberries are sweeter and have more fla-vour. They also contain antiox-idants, and more vitamin C than an orange. “We cannot get enough fruits and vegetables,” say health experts in unison.

Almost everyone has some sum-mer memory that relates to straw-berries or raspberries. Malin Sö-derström, cook, remembers the lingon berry juice and raspberry cake at her friend’s grandmother’s. “Use raw, uncooked berries as long as possible,” advises Ma-lin. This year’s pastry chef Patrik Fredriksson says that strawberries and raspberries are every pastry chef’s favourite product in the summer.

THe LIGHT AnD THe DIFFeRenCe In TeMPeRATuRe BeTWeen nIGHT AnD DAY

GIVeS uS MORe FLAVOuR. DuRInG THe nIGHT THe STRAWBeRRIeS ReTAIn

THeIR SuGAR, AnD THe GReATeR THe DIFFeRenCe BeTWeen DAY AnD nIGHT

TIMe TeMPeRATuReS, THe SWeeTeR THe BeRRIeS

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http://www.dalawines.se

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SWeDen’S BeST BARTenDeRFOTO: ANNE-MARIE CANEMYR

AFTeR TWO HeCTIC COMPeTITIOn DAYS In COPenHAGen, THe SWeDISH COCKTAIL CHAMPIOn In THe DIAGeO WORLD CLASS nOR-

DIC FInAL HAS Been nAMeD. THIS YeAR’S WInneR IS RIKARD eneLL FROM TAVeRnA BRILLO In STOCKHOLM, WITH ROOTS On THe

COAST juST OuTSIDe STOCKHOLM In SALTSjÖBADen.

Rikard can now boast of be-ing the Swedish cocktail

champion. Along with Hardeep Rehal from bar 1105 in Den-mark, and Jesper Høst from No. 19 in Norway, he has secured a place in the Diageo World Class Global Final (also known as the unofficial World Champion-ships) which will be held in the UK in July of this year. Hardeep Rehal even went all the way and can now call himself best Nordic bartender. A total of 27 bartend-ers from Sweden, Norway and Denmark took part in the Nor-dic final.

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The final was held over two days - the first day was at Holmen’s Canal Cocktails and the second day at Hotel D’Angleterre. The bartenders who competed were judged by a jury of past winners, participants and experts. Crea-tivity, showmanship and, above all, a steady hand are what the judges are looking out for. “It’s a great feeling and this has really exceeded my expectations. I’ve had highs and lows during

the contest but I think my expe-rience has made a big difference. Cocktails are my passion and my hobby and I look forward to tak-ing the Nordic food trend with me to the global finals and cre-ating some truly extraordinary cocktails,’ says Enell, Sweden’s best bartender.

COCKTAILS ARe MY PASSIOn AnD MY HOBBY AnD I LOOK FORWARD TO TAK-

InG THe nORDIC FOOD TRenD WITH Me TO THe GLOBAL FInALS AnD CReATInG

SOMe TRuLY exTRAORDInARY COCKTAILS,’ SAYS eneLL

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SIn In MÖLLe ...TExT: CARL WACHTMEISTER PHOTO:GRAND HôTEL MÖLLE, FILMARKIVET.SE

LIKe MAnY OTHeRS In THeIR YOuTH I BeGAn In A SMALL WAY TO TAKe An InTeReST In THe OPPOSITe Sex. In OuR eARLY

TeenS, YOu LOOKeD AT THe PReTTY GIRLS A LITTLe On THe SLY, AnD SIGHeD InFATuATeDLY WHen YOu LOOKeD THROuGH THe

CLASS PICTuReS In THe SCHOOL ALBuM.

photo:filmarkivet.se

filmarkivet.se

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In the spring, in March and in a sleepy little Scanian place on the Kulla Peninsula. But hope was replaced with disappointment. Nowhere was the shame we had hoped for to be found. It was bad, almost a betrayal, almost as big as when one discovered that there is no Santa Claus!

Well, that’s how it goes. Apart from the fact that sin was no long-er available in Mölle, also demon-strates the importance of good research. In our defence, it was at a time when the internet and Google didn’t exist. The Nordic Encyclopaedia wasn’t much help either.

But what a shame it was when we somewhat misguidedly had hoped to find sin. Yet ‘sin’ had

Eventually, usually in connec-tion with confirmation, one

also got to hear a lot about sin. To be completely honest, maybe we knew a thing or two earlier, though there were occasions when we got to hear about sin in Mölle. The ‘we’ being me and my friends. Little by little we began to understand that this talk of sin was not so stupid after all; it sounded like a good place to start. We im-mediately began to forge plans for getting there and maybe taking part in some of the unrestrained goings on. After a lot of ifs and buts, we arrived there, in Mölle.

One CAn ALMOST SAY THAT MÖLLe WAS A BIT OF A COnTeMPORARY TO ST TROPez.

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been there back in the late 1800s and early 1900s. In Mölle’s case it was an outrageous fact that men and women bathed, not individu-ally but ... together! This is parti-cularly upsetting in many circles. Pure evidence of moral decay. In addition to that, they wore full cross-striped and simultaneously revealing swimsuits. Downfall was close. The small town was originally a fishing village; back in the second half of the 19th cen-tury they started to attract tourists. Initially on a modest scale, but gradually more and more came from abroad, from Denmark and Germany. There was a boat from Copenhagen and even a direct train connection from Berlin. Via Paris and London there were even more international visitors. There were many who wanted to partake of the great waters and bathe to-gether and of course have a good time in general. It became an in-

In MÖLLe’S CASe IT WAS An OuTRAGeOuS FACT THAT Men AnDWOMen BATHeD, nOT InDIVIDuALLY BuT ... TOGeTHeR!

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ternational arena. In addition to the common bath and the sweet life, there were opportunities to stroll in the beautiful surroun-dings and climb up on the rocks.

Even the German Emperor Wil-helm II visited Mölle.

In July 1907, he made a stop when he passed by on his yacht and saw with his own eyes the sin he had read about in the newspapers at home. There exists photographic evidence of his visit to this day, although he did not bathe him-self, neither individually nor in a group.

In 1910 Mölle got its first rail con-nection with the outside world. Previously, you had to go to Hö-ganäs and from there travel the last 10 miles by horse and cart . Before the railroad there was also Sweden’s first regular bus service between Höganäs and Mölle. A staggering thought, far from the big cities. For Mölle it was a real lift when 50 000 visitors arrived by train in the very first year. Few places were more popular than Mölle right there and right then. The fashionable bathing life was nothing for ordinary people. Möl-le became a playground for the upper class and people with stuf-fed wallets. A luxury seaside town of international standards, with the hectic nightlife and everything else you could wish for. One can almost say that Mölle was a bit of a contemporary to St Tropez. Lots of postcards and the occasional movies found their way abroad. Later came the silent movies, but with exciting names like Badende Damer (Bathing Beauties - 1907), Badliv vid Kullen (Beach life at the Hill - 1909), Champagneruset (Champagne Intoxication - 1911), Svart sjuka kärleks drömmer (Jealousy / Love Dreams - 1912) and, presumably, dramatic Ver-dens Undergang (The End of the World – 1916).

THe DAHLBeRG FAMILY BOuGHT THe HOTeL juST OVeR 50 YeARS AGO. FIRST FATHeR ARne AnD THen, FOLLOWInG HIS DeATH, HIS DAuGHTeR eVA TOOK OVeR THe HeLM.

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New hotels were also built on the assembly line. In the early 1900s there were more than ten hotels. Hotel Kullabergsvägen, Hotel Corfitzon, Hotel Möllenberg, Grand Hotel Ahlbäck, Tourist Ho-tel and Olympia are just some of them. Many guests stayed for a long time so the need for accom-modation was great. In many ca-ses, Mölle became more of a Ger-man and Danish tourist town than a Swedish one. During the First World War, however, the happy beach life dwindled. The first to disappear were the Germans. To some extent, the tourists did re-turn between the wars but the great glory days were now a thing of the past. Apparently the same thing happened to the sin.

Today in Mölle there will be no eyebrows raised if you bathe to-gether. At best, you might get a little attention when you’re wea-ring an all in one striped swimsuit. However, there are still excellent opportunities available to sin. But then maybe other kinds of sin. I myself am more attracted to the sin of gluttony or perhaps indo-lence. An obvious focal point in this context is the Grand Hotel in Mölle. The hotel, built in 1909, is located on the slope leading up from the harbour in Mölle.

It is an imposing classical buil-ding of some considerable size with generous glass verandas fa-cing the sea and a fantastic ter-race to sit on when the weather permits. The whole atmosphere and surroundings make it appear that it could just as easily lie just outside Cape Town or maybe in New England. You can enjoy a

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quiet summer evening as well as a stormy day in November, alt-hough in the latter case you would probably gladly skip the outside drinks.

The Dahlberg family bought the hotel just over 50 years ago. First father Arne and then, following his death, his daughter Eva took over the helm. “You might not think that was the original plan,” says Eve. Her brother Per was probably the one who stood first in line but he had just opened his successful restaurant Gastro in Helsingborg, and had other things to take care of. Well, the challen-ges were there and Eva took over the operation.

At the Grand they’re continually seeking new innovations while retaining the traditions out of respect to the old hotel. For the Dahlberg family the art of hotel management has become a lifest-yle. They are always there except

for two weeks in the spring when they’re closed. In Eva’s case, the hotel so far has been her life. She was even born in the tower room at the hotel. Today, the hotel is probably Mölle’s largest em-ployer with over 55 employees and a turnover in the tens of mil-lions. They have managed to get a reasonably even distribution of bookings although the emphasis is still on the year’s brighter and warmer periods. Five months of the year it is busy while the oth-ers are somewhat calmer. Unlike before, they now have companies holding their conferences there. Nowadays, there are very few weeks in the year when there isn’t a conference at the hotel. From June to October there is also a wedding almost every weekend.

TODAY, THe HOTeL IS PROBABLY MÖLLe’S LARGeST eMPLOYeR WITH OVeR 55 eMPLOYeeS AnD A TuRnOVeR In THe TenS OF MILLIOnS

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An important group of guests are still the Danes. Swedish guests prefer their summer to have at least fair weather. Our Danish neighbours a little more durable. In many cases, it is almost as if they would rather appreciate a bracing storm and a bit of tempest during their walks on the Kul-len cliffs. Once back at the hotel, they recover by a blazing fire with a drink. Danes constitute a large number of the hotel guests and while I’m there I hear a lot of Da-nish being spoken in the salons. They know where they are while many of the other tourists never take the back roads into Mölle itself. Today, both the ferry from Copenhagen and the railroad are a part of history. Grand Hotel cur-rently has 55 state rooms in the main building, the Grand Hotel Olympia and the Little Annexe. For those who wish, there are also

suites. Many rooms have balco-nies facing the Sound.

In the distance the northern part of Danish Jutland can be seen, to the north is the Kullens dramatic rock formations and to the south you can just glimpse Höganäs and a little further south Helsingborg and Elsinore. The rooms are de-corated in a mixed style of clas-sical and modern. If you like the sea and ships, then the hotel is the place where you can keep a good watch on the traffic in the Sound. Book a room with sea view, bal-cony, and bring your binoculars.

More than 15 years ago, Eva met her husband David Mill. He came by one day looking for a job. He got the job and since then he’s been in charge of the restaurant side of the business. The food at the Grand Hotel is classically in-ternational or Scandinavian. Itss always difficult to put a stamp on menus. The focus is on seasonal ingredients and local produce. The

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seafood comes from the local fish-ermen in Mölle and Arild. Meat and vegetables from the Kulla peninsula. The kitchen achieves a consistently high standard with the attention on good food. What used to be more fine dining with long sittings and many dishes has now been replaced by more simple and casual dining expe-riences. Still, of course, with the focus on high quality. Recently, it has also appeared on the list of the country’s best seafood restau-rants. All the different lists and guides though, you can take with a pinch of salt. They are largely a rather blunt tool, but of course it is flattering to be noticed anyway.

In addition to the Grand Hotel Mölle they also run the market hall in Höganäs. It is in itself so amazing that it will be the subject of a special article in an upcoming issue of Fine Dining. It should be mentioned, however, that the mar-ket operates in a symbiosis with the hotel. To some extent, the staff are the same and you can balance the resources for example when it comes to catering. Even in terms of raw materials the market hall provides many of the purchases. Where previously the local pro-ducers were a tad restrained, the attitude has now changed quite considerably. To appear in the market hall catalogue or on the hotel menu is now solely positive. Many of those who have their own farm produce shop will now also sell their products through the market hall or merchandising. But as I said it will have a whole article dedicated to it, so we’ll leave that there for now.

The question then arises - when is the best time to go to Mölle and the Grand Hotel? The answer is quite simple. Anytime except the two weeks in early spring when it’s closed. Each season has its own allure. Hike, play golf, swim, fish, dive or just be there doing nothing. The activities are numerous. Why not combine it with some shopping in Höganäs and a visit to the Market Hall. Do as our Danish friends do and head off over the Kullen rock forma-tions in the autumn storms and cozy down by the fire with a cal-vados or coffee. For myself, I like to skip the summer crowds and enjoy the rather more sedate at-mosphere during the other times. Clearly, I prefer the Danish habit with a ‘little one’ at the Grand in Mölle. Hver gang. (Danish for ‘every time’.)

ReCenTLY, IT HAS ALSO APPeAReD On THe LIST OF THe COunTRY’S BeST SeA-FOOD ReSTAuRAnTS.

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SVenSKT Tenn (THe PeWTeRSTORe)TExT: CATARINA OFFE PHOTO: SVENSKT TENN

MY FIRST COnTACT WITH SVenKT Tenn WAS AT THe AGe OF FIVe WITH MY AunT FAnnY. SHe HAD A nAVY BLue DReSS WITH

WHITe eLePHAnTS On IT. SInCe THen I HAVe HAD One juST LIKe IT On MY WISH LIST.

After that I was taken on regu-lar visits to Stockholm and,

according to my Mother, it would always involve a visit to the exci-ting shop on the Strand called the Swedish Tenn. It was considered to be the bastion of good taste. I realized that early on, but re-cently I have learned that it is not about good or bad taste, but more

about the ability to select objects that have the capacity to convey a desired feeling. Svenskt Tenn’s founder, the textile teacher Estrid Ericson, was a person with a uni-que ability to do just that. Swedish Tenn started with a small shop carrying selected items of Swe-dish pewter. The company soon developed into a full scale interior

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design centre and has remained so ever since. This year marks the 90th year since its inception and it still feels completely up to date. The shop on Strandvägen (the Strand in downtown Stockholm) has displayed ambitious exhibi-tions this year of times gone by.

Estrid Ericson paid tribute to the eclectic, far and beyond the basic range, that she and her collabo-rators developed. She used paper napkins and plastic flowers early on in high design, something that designers continue to do today.

The range currently consists of 80% custom design, explains Marketing Director Thommy Bindefeld. The rest varies but it is always of the highest class of creative handicraft. Recently Thommy collected many exqui-site artifacts from Mexico; Estrid Ericson also did a shopping trip

there. The best-known collabora-tion is with Josef Frank, the Aus-trian architect who came to Swe-den during the Second World War with his Swedish wife and beca-me an interior designer. His furni-ture and especially his fabrics are well known throughout the world and through the company’s web shop. “Interest in Svenskt Tenn’s textiles are evenly distributed around the world,” says Thommy. At the Swedish-owned c / o The Maidstone in the United States, Swedish Pewter is well represen-ted, as well as at some foreign embassies. Frank’s 160 patterns are stored in the National Archi-ves, with forty of them are still in production. A design shouldn’t

62


run the risk of being ‘tired’. Five years ago a small number of pre-viously unseen patterns were put into production, yet there are still a handful of patterns that have ne-ver been shown from the archive. All designs and colours are made exactly as Frank instructed.

New products appear regularly such as when there wasn’t a good selection of vases. Two Swedish designers were commissioned to design three vases and each of them went into production at the Swedish glassworks. Skruf and Reymyre commissioned the most and one vase became so popu-lar that Skruf was able to recruit a glassblower. The mixture of the basic classic range of custom designs and the temporary range means Swedish design never feels outdated, but very much alive and modern instead.

VIC, Very Important Customers, are free to use the company’s own interior designer when furnishing public places, a home or a room. Decorating with Swedish Pewter

SWeDISH PeWTeR IS unIque In ITS OWneR

COnSTeLLATIOn. In 1975 eSTRID eRICSOn SOLD

HeR LIFe’S WORK TO THe KjeLL AnD MARTA BeIjeR

FOunDATIOn, A CHARITABLe ORGAnISATIOn Run

unDeR PuBLIC SuPeRVISIOn. ALL PROFITS GO

TO ReSeARCH In eCOLOGY, MeDICIne AnD

AGRICuLTuRe

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alone is not advised; eclectic con-trol is important and the customer is encouraged to add their own touches to it to make the envi-ronment vivid and personal. You can also bring your own fabric to cover a Swedish Tenn sofa or purchase fabric by Josef Frank or some other selected fabric manu-facturers.

Thanks to extensive renovation a few years ago, the store now has a tea room, something which Estrid Ericson had long desired. Now guests can have lunch and tea in Estrid Ericson’s almost pristine office. In addition to exhibitions, the Swedish Pewter Academy will re-emerge with a series of lectures and courses. Swedish Pewter also appears to be less affected by the economy’s ups and downs.

Both Stockholms Auktionsverk and Bukowski’s have their own Svenskt Tenn departments. Prices

are often higher than the original purchase price. An object from Swedish Pewter usually retains its value.

Swedish Pewter is unique in its owner constellation. In 1975 Es-trid Ericson sold her life’s work to the Kjell and Marta Beijer Foun-dation, a charitable organisation run under public supervision. All profits go to research in ecology, medicine and agriculture.

“It is a commercial cultural insti-tution,” says Anders Wall, Chair-person. “Sure, we need to cover our costs and make a profit,” says Thommy, “otherwise there will be no money for research, but we have an artistic freedom that other companies don’t. Our brand is unique.” And for that reason sales in Strandvägen in Stockholm, and in the web shop complement it perfectly. They have an old cont-ract with a store in Gothenburg which carries a small selection of the range. “And it will remain that way,” Thommy declares. “We work long-term and want conti-nued control over the range, and if we ever do expand the sales will be on Svenskt Tenn’s terms.” Estrid Ericsson promised that the company would live forever; Thommy is more modest but is willing to guarantee at least three hundred years.

Visit the shop at Strandvägen on your next visit to Stockholm - it’s so good for your soul and well-being.

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AW AnD A PuB CRAWL WHen IT RAInSTExT: CATARINA OFFE PHOTO: CATARINA OFFE, BERNS

PLeASuRe PALACe BeRnS In STOCKHOLM InVITeS YOu TO An ‘AFTeR WORK’ eVeRY WeeKDAY. A neW COnCePT, THeRe’S eVeRY-

THInG FROM A WIDe VARIeTY OF BeeRS AnD CLASSIC COCKTAILS TO SPeCIALLY DeSIGneD SIGnATuRe COCKTAILS.

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The terrace tempts you with rosé and bubbly, the Mirror

Bar has beer aplenty while the Cocktail Bar and Berns Bistro & Bar offers classic cocktails. The Berns Bistro Bar is located a short distance away from the house but is worth a visit with its exciting signature drink called Östermalmare which consists of elderflower liqueur, lemon juice and topped up with champagne.

The terrace has its Juicy Mama, am alcohol-free fresh fruit drink, the Mirror bar has its Elderberry Fluff, just as fluffy as it sounds, and the cocktail bar Barry In The Ground, always has a refreshing blend of strawberry and elder-berry. Without exaggeration it can be said that the Elder flower has a special place in the Berne drinks selection. BuBBLY On THe WAY.

If you’re waiting for the train and don’t have the time or energy to leave Central Station, and if you’re keen on a glass of bubbly, then my advice is to take the escalator up to Perini Wine, Champagne & Food. Their lunch is popular, but after one o’clock, when it calms down a bit, choose a table in the middle of the room where you can enjoy watching life go by. Choose a glass of Prosecco for less than a 100 Swedish crowns or any of the eight champagnes, including se-veral by the glass. Splurge out and select the 2005 Louis Massing Millésime Grand Cru from Fran-ce, but be sure to share the bottle with someone, otherwise you’ll miss your train!

THe TeRRACe TeMPTS YOu WITH ROSé AnD BuBBLY, THe MIRROR BAR HAS BeeR APLenTY WHILe THe COCKTAIL BAR AnD BeRnS BISTRO & BAR OFFeRS CLASSIC COCKTAILS.

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WHeRe THeRe´S SMOKe…TExT OCH PHOTO: CATARINA OFFE

On THe LITTLe ISLAnD OF SKePPSHOLMen IS A ReSTAuRAnT CALLeD HjeRTA SITuATeD In A CAReFuLLY RenOVATeD TORPeDO

WORKSHOP FROM THe LATe 1800S. RIGHT uP unTIL A FeW YeARS AGO enTRY WAS STRICTLY PROHIBITeD BeCAuSe IT HAD Been A

MILITARY AReA FOR CenTuRIeS.

“Still to this day, the area is relati-vely unknown for local Stockholm residents even though it is right in the middle of the city,” says res-taurateur Malin Söderström. Af-ter four years, it was time to end the concept, and Malin took the opportunity to introduce her favo-rite taste, smoke, onto the menu. Smoking is one of the oldest met-hods of preserving food and has been used in Swedish cooking for thousands of years and Malin lo-ves to mix tradition with the new. She has acquired a proper wood-burning smoke chamber that is ca-

68


pable of supplying the restaurant with smoked food for starters, main courses and even desserts.

“I have experimented with a va-riety of ingredients and I ven-ture to promise many exciting combinations,” says Malin. Cold smoked asparagus, smoked whip-ped butter and smoked trout is a small selection from the menu. And being the talented chef she is, the smoky flavor is very well ba-lanced throughout all the dishes, not too much and not too little. It’s just the licorice pieces in the coffee we need some time to get used to.

In addition to the exciting taste experience the restaurant’s loca-tion is well worth a visit on its own. Apart from the pleasant in-door atmosphere there is an out-door dining area with rustic tables set on gravel, a pier with boats bobbing about and views over to Djurgården with its grand Nordic

Museum, The Regal Ship Wasa’s Shipyard and The Gröna Lund Amusement park, which you can visit another day.

“You will be able to hang around from lunch until late at night. Or take a steaming hot picnic basket with you to eat on the Island’s green. Malin had always wanted to be a chef - it was as easy as that. The fact that at the time it carried with it a low status didn’t bother her. And it never occurred to her that a cook could become a celebrity. She doesn’t believe it was harder being a woman; she was quite busy doing the best she could and just went her own way. She has always been respected, and when she enters a kitchen she feels that the language and attitu-

“YOu WILL Be ABLe TO HAnG AROunD FROM LunCH unTIL LATe AT nIGHT. OR TAKe A STeAMInG HOT PICnIC BASKeT WITH YOu TO eAT On THe ISLAnD’S GReen.

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de of the male chefs has changed a bit.

“I might help them to tone it down a little,” she reflects. In ad-dition to Hjerta, Malin also runs the Modern Museum’s restaurant next door, and has done so for the last ten years. “Time flies when you’re having fun!” says Malin. She works happily alongside oth-er Swedish elite chefs, currently in The Annual Chef of the Year competition and most recently the highly acclaimed Bocuse d’or European championship. Which Sweden won!

When she married, she was quite ‘old’ as she puts it, and was able to decide her own working hours. That doesn’t mean she was wor-king irregular hours. She has been with the Swedish National Culinary team with all its thou-sands of training hours and she’s been a TV chef where you have to be ‘in makeup’ at five o’clock in the morning. It helps for sure if you have Malins attitude - her eyes always glisten with curiosity and her mouth is always ready to laugh. The only time I’ve seen her looking very serious was when she was head of the Nobel dinner 2011, and proceeded down the fa-mous staircase of the Blue Hall of Stockholm City Hall to the app-lause of a 1000 guests. But once it was all over the laughter returned. “It was great!” says Malin.

In ADDITIOn TO HjeRTA, MALIn ALSO RunS THe MODeRn MuSeuM’S ReSTAuRAnT nexT DOOR

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www.bravin.se

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THe neWLY InAuGuRATeD neW HAnDICRAFT BReWeRY In STOCKHOLM- BReWeRY AnD ReSTAuRAnT WITH BeeR AnD FOOD In PeRFeCT HARMOnYPHOTO: FRIDA PETERSSON/LINUS HALLGREN/CARLSBERG

THe neW CARneGIe BReWeRY - A neW AnD MODeRn HAnDCRAFTeD BReWeRY In THe LISTeD LuMA FACTORY BuILDInG In HAM-

MARBY (SOuTHeRn SuBuRB OF STOCKHOLM ) WITH ITS OWn ReSTAuRAnT WAS ReCenTLY InAuGuRATeD. BeHInD THe PROjeCT IS

CARLSBeRG SWeDen AnD THe BROOKLYn BReWeRY. THe BReWeRY’S AMBITIOn IS TO BeCOMe A GATHeRInG PLACe FOR ALL WHO

WAnT TO exPLORe THe WORLD OF BeeR.

The New Carnegie Brewery is a modern handcraft brewery

founded on old traditions and combining history, innovation and quality. The work to realise the vision of a new craft brewery in Stockholm began more than two years ago and was officially ope-ned by the Minister of agriculture Eskil Erlandsson.

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Brewmaster Anders Wendler and site manager Fredrik Vogel, along with the three other brewers - Josefine Karlsson, Christopher Thurgesson and Karl Fornarve - have had a hectic time, but now the dream of a new craft brewery in Stockholm has become a reality.

“To me beer is both my job and my hobby, so it feels fantastic to have had the opportunity to create the new Carnegie Brewery which we hope will be a temple to hops and malt to anyone who wants to explore the world of beer,” says Anders Wendler.

Five different beers have already been developed in close colla-boration with the Brooklyn Bre-wery which is responsible for the operation of the brewery. One of them is the New Carnegie JACK, an IPA whose name is made up of the first letters of the brewers (Jo-sephine, Anders, Christopher and Charles).

CHRISTOFFeR THuRGeSSOn

GARReTT OLIVeR

FIVe DIFFeRenT BeeRS HAVe ALReADY Been DeVeLOPeD In CLOSe COLLABORATIOn WITH THe BROOKLYn BReWeRY WHICH IS ReSPOnSIBLe FOR THe OPeRATIOn OF THe BReWeRY

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“Ever since its inception, we at Brooklyn Brewery traveled ab-road quite extensively to acquire further training in the different beer cultures. In Sweden we have always been welcomed with open arms, so it is natural for us to part-ner with our friends here, and to-gether write a new chapter in beer history,” says Garrett Oliver, mas-ter brewer at Brooklyn Brewery in New York.

The New Carnegie Brewery pro-duces small-scale, quality beer that will be sold on draft and in bottles and will also be availa-ble from the System Bolaget (the Swedish state owned off-licence chain) and at selected restaurants and bars in Stockholm, Sweden and the world.

The New Carnegie Brewery Res-taurant

The brewery’s premises include a restaurant where the combina-tion of beer and food are the to-tal focus. The restaurant is run by manager Tobias Nordahl and chef Billy White, both with a excellent experience in fine cui-sine. They’ve recently come from Mattias Dahlgren’s Food Bar in Stockholm and Fäviken in Jämt-land respectively . In Hammarby, they will create something com-pletely new in the old listed Luma Building down by the water.

“The New Restaurant and Carne-gie Brewery is a fantastic project. The thing that inspired me the most was the first meeting with the brewers. Their craftsmanship and enthusiasm really impressed me from the start. The restaurant has an inviting atmosphere where everyone is welcome, from beer enthusiasts to the couple who have arranged a babysitter for the evening. The proximity of the in-house hand-made beer gives the restaurant an extra edge,” says Billy White, head chef.

THe BReWeRY’S PReMISeS InCLuDe A ReSTAuRAnT WHeRe THe COMBInATIOn OF BeeR AnD FOOD ARe THe TOTAL FOCuS.

june 2014 dining design · 2017-06-13 · 6 june 2unun0 w 2e1u0n notes prince v an orangiën inn...

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