journey into stillness - dharma nature...through the thar desert, from pushkar to jaisalmer using...
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Journey
into stillness
I am 27 years old and I am with friends at a techno concert of electro music, an unfamiliar world to me. One of my friends offers me ecstasy – the so-called drug of love. I am tempted. The experience is both exciting and scary. "This evening remains etched in my memory. The effect of the drug is to make me feel connected to the immensity of what I am, cleansed from all my fears, serene and peaceful. I feel a new impulse of life carried by the deep intuition that there is, inside of me, something bigger than me." That night, I was very lucky to see clearly that drugs were not the path that would lead me to this place of freedom: the freedom from one's own neuroses, from those beliefs that make the relationship to one-self and others so narrow and confrontational. I became profoundly aware that the path that had opened before me was that of detachment, while the drug was calling for attachment. The call was to leave my habits, not to create an addiction and es-pecially not this particular one. That same evening, I decided to go to India and my life took a completely different turn.
by Denis Robberechts
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Delhi, early morning. "It's
here," the taxi driver an-
nounces. My heart tightens: it
had felt safe to watch the
hustle and bustle of India
from inside the vehicle. Al-
though it is still early, there
are already a lot of Indians on
the streets, not to mention all
those who sleep on the side-
walks. I take refuge in my ho-
tel room. No window, not too
clean, spartan, but it's enough
for me to feel safe.
It’s not until the afternoon that
I venture out onto Pahar
Ganj's main street. The street
is teeming with people. In ad-
dition to the crowds of pedes-
trians, there are all kinds of
vehicles, fruit stalls and other
shops on carts, dogs and
cows... Monkeys who watch
the fruit from the rooftops and
run on a jumble of power
lines above our heads. "Hello
my friend, how are you?"
"Where do you come from?"
"What is your name?" Ques-
tions come from every direc-
tion. I feel like I am the centre
of attention. "Come to my
shop" is usually the next sen-
tence. An hour later and I ha-
ven’t got very far.
It didn’t take me long to figure
out how to handle awkward
situations, like learning how
to get out of a shop without
buying stuff I absolutely did
not need. Very quickly, I had
to learn to say no. The clearer
my no became – and the
more resolute my tone of
voice - the less people per-
sisted and the less I found
myself in positions from
which it was difficult to extri-
cate myself ... India’s
teaching had begun.
In Rajasthan, I met a friend
who, like me, was tired of tra-
veling by train or bus, going
from one tourist trap to the
next. We decided to trek
through the Thar Desert, from
Pushkar to Jaisalmer using
donkeys to carry our luggage.
We gave ourselves a week to
get ready. It took us over a
month.
India is slow, and our pa-
tience was severely tested.
We used this time to learn the
basics of Hindi and to cook
with what whatever was at
hand. People gave us recom-
mendations, talked about the
desert. "Do not sleep in hol-
lows, that’s where snakes
pass through", "Do not set up
your camp next to a water
point, the tiger might come to
drink and attack your
donkeys" ... Afterwards, I was
grateful that life had organi-
zed all these setbacks. This
imposed preparation time
proved extremely valuable! I
began to accept the fact that
life has its own rhythm and
intelligence, and that the spi-
ritual journey is a constant
invitation to let go of control
and to be carried away by
something beyond reason.
Finally we left: enthusiastic,
and fearful. We had been
India
I became
profoundly
aware that the
path that had
opened before
me was that of
detachment,
while the drug
was calling for
attachment.
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warned against gangs of
armed robbers who loot vil-
lages, rape and kill. But our
biggest fear was the leap into
the unknown.
The entire village of Pushkar
came to see us off. In Indian
culture donkeys are consi-
dered impure, so they were
confused to see two young,
white (so obviously rich)
people leave with donkeys!
We walked 600 km towards
the West, without a map or
compass. At every village we
passed we were set upon by
people touching our bags,
wanting to know what we
were carrying. The fact that
we were traveling with
donkeys provoked hysteria,
and many of the desert folk
seemed to lose the innate
respect they have for travel-
lers. Fortunately, we always
met wise people who were
able to go beyond their cultu-
ral conditioning. Without
them, it is likely that certain
moments of hysteria would
have turned into the looting of
our luggage. And at the same
time, because we were trave-
ling with donkeys, we were
invited in by simple and open
people. In these meetings,
we discovered a generosity
like nowhere else. Rich or
poor, they cooked their best
food for us, invited us to stay
for several days, fed our
donkeys, and gave us some
money to continue our jour-
ney. The elders of the family
would explain: "You are far
from home, it is our duty to
take care of you". Or "It is the
Gods who have sent you to
offer us the chance to help".
I was struck by how available
people were. Throughout our
stay, we enjoyed their ge-
nuine curiosity and caring at-
tention. It made me feel asha-
med to think how little time I
spent with my friends. What
can be more generous than
being fully available?
This trek took five weeks and
was full of adventures. Our
donkeys were attacked by
buffaloes, I thought I was
dying of dysentery, we were
greeted with open hearts and
also had rocks thrown at us. I
found myself running through
the desert in the middle of the
night, half naked, trying to
catch my runaway donkey, so
many stories ... I was ente-
ring deeper into the journey... The spiritual journey is a con-
stant invitation to let go of con-
trol and to be carried away by
something beyond reason.
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I stayed in India. Since the
start of my trip, I had studied
with a master of Indian classi-
cal music. He became like a
father to me and I spent all
my winters with him in Be-
nares. As soon as spring arri-
ved, I went walking in the
foothills of the Himalayas:
with no destination and al-
ways without a map or com-
pass, with only a few provi-
sions in a bag. I slept in
people’s homes, in caves, or
under the sky ... I had very
strong inner experiences,
ranging from a total loss of
meaning to a euphoric sense
of freedom. It always inspired
the same questions: "Who
am I without my habits? Or
"How does it feel not to know
where we are going?" I think I
was trying to lose myself, to
be no one, to leave behind all
my conditioning, my identity.
During one of these walks, I
remember constantly thinking
about my mother's death to
the point where it felt like a
premonition. It was on the
third night, lying in a cave (I
learned later that it had been
inhabited for a long time by a
highly respected hermit), that
a new understanding emer-
ged: "It’s my mother inside
me who is dying, my rela-
tionship to her is changing, I
can let it go ". Another time, I
saw myself as a boat leaving
the shore to launch into the
waves. Walking aimlessly
was doing its work!
One day, I felt a need to re-
flect. Miraculously, a pretty
little house appeared. Far
from any village, it had been
built by a hermit, who had
died a few years before. I
found the keys and settled
there. I stayed there for five
months. Alone, without rea-
ding, without mu-
sic, without any
distraction. Cut-
ting wood, tending
the fire for coo-
king and warmth,
fetching water,
gardening. I
quickly learnt that
the simple life is
not easy! It takes
a lot of structure
and a thousand
small skilful ac-
tions to provide
the bare mini-
mum. It was there
that I really en-
joyed the plea-
sure of simple
things, this deep feeling of
not wanting anything and
being truly satisfied. It's like a
sweet, intimate, safe and
peaceful joy. I realized that
this feeling of wanting nothing
is also a feeling of wealth, the
very wealth that so many
people seek through
ownership and accumulation.
For several years, I returned
to recharge my batteries in
this small house in the Hima-
layas during the monsoon
season with its torrential
rains, so conducive to immo-
bility and introspection. I
practiced meditation, and was
letting life take care of sim-
plifying me.
My style of traveling began to
change. I felt less and less
need to move around, to dis-
cover new places and to live
new experiences. My inner
world became the territory I
explored. It is there that,
more and more, I discovered
a great adventure.
I spent seven years in this
country where "yesterday"
and "tomorrow" are the same
word “Khal”. I continued my
music lessons, solitary re-
treats, and visits to monaste-
ries and ashrams.
Sometimes I went home for a
few months. People would
say, "Why go so far, every-
thing is already here." Now I
know it's true. But it is only far
from home that I finally un-
derstood.
Alone
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If traveling is synonymous
with "discovering", then it is
more of a state of mind than
physical displacement. The
closed mind can change
countries without changing
universes, the open mind can
change universes without lea-
ving home.
Today I live in a small village
in France, with my family. I
practice meditation: the inner
exploration, the greatest of
journeys. I share my expe-
riences on retreats in France
and abroad. Once a year, I
take a group to India for a trip
off the beaten track and
share the experience of a
country I love. It is an oppor-
tunity to come together
around the same quest for
meaning, to meditate toge-
ther and to open up to a diffe-
rent kind of freedom and in-
dependence.
The next trip will take place in
the November 2019. Destina-
tions: the Himalayas,
Dharamsala (where the Dalai
Lama lives), Benares for the
festival of light mandalas, one
of the most beautiful festivals
of India, and Pushkar, the ga-
teway to the Desert.
Trusting the intelligence of life
that is inside us - which is us
- makes it possible to follow
its path, without complying or
seeking to copy. Just follow
this path and you will go far.
https://
www.dharmanature.org
The closed mind
can change
countries with-
out changing
universes,
the open mind
can change
universes
without leaving
home.