john smedley

8/9/2019 John Smedley

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J O H N S M E D L E YM A D E I N G R E A T B R I T A I N

Product

ProposalA/W 2015


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Andrea Della Mattia

Tutor: Jo O’rourkeN0567112


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T a b l e

o f C

o n t e

n t s

Fig 1 - The Capsule (Behance, 2012)


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PG2

S.W.O.T

Business/SocialEconomicTrends

CustomerProfile

Intro/Aims

12

0806

04

16

Trends

18ColourPalettes

22

Collection

28RangePlan

32CostingSheets

38Conclusion

40ImageReferences

4245

Bibliography

WordCount


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I n t r o / A i m s

Fig 2 - Lea Bridge ( Wikimedia, 2010)


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PG4

HistoryJohn Smedley is a brand thatputs heritage into all thatthey do. Starting 230 yearsago in 1784 by John Smed-ley and Peter Nightingale,

The two men constructed aspinning mill factory in Der-byshire, United Kingdomthat, to this day, still acts asthe main factory for thebrand. As years went on, the

business was passed downthrough the Smedley familywho still owns the company.

The brand is known for itshand finished, fine-gaugeknitwear in luxury materials.

The company continues tokeep with its family cultureand values just as they were

in 1784.

If you’ve can create a wardrobe that is made up oftried and tested outfits of high quality then potential-ly you can still be the WWE Champion on a Wednes-day night, and look good doing it. I’m sure you know

where I’m going with this but one of those staplebrands is John Smedley. There’s a reason why they’re

still so highly regarded and prevalent in menswearstores across the globe, still to this day. Even in 2013John Smedley’s flawless

knitwear can be found on the old boys down thepub, wearing

the same ensembles as they did back in the 60s

- Matthew Pike(Buckets and Spades, 2013).

Quote

Aims The John Smedley Compa-ny has always been a brand

to design with the classic

look and classic feel inmind. Although this com-

pany does have their trendbased pieces, the majority

of our collections are strict-ly designed for the moremodest and classic look.

The new Autumn/Winter2015 collection keeps the

John Smedley standardlook but takes inspiration

from the runways and RTW. Throughout this report,you will experience the

visions, inspirations, andpricing of the new collec-

tion alongside thestrengths and

weaknesses of the brandand the business/socioeco-

nomic effects towards theJohn Smedley company.

“

”


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u s t

o m e

r P r o

fi l e

Fig 3 - Brand Watch: John Smedley (MFM, nd)


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The John Smedley women’s consumer isbroken down into three customersegments.

The 1st segment being between theages of 25-30,

the 2nd being the agesof 30-45,

and the 3rd being 50-65. This report will only focus on the customerages 30-50.

Meet Gemma.She is 32 years old. Gemma enjoys exclu-sivity and hand crafted items when itcomes to her clothing. Her friends andfamily describe her style as simplistic,sophisticated, and timeless. Although her

image is not everything to her, She is will-ing to spend the money to look as good asshe feels.

John Smedley offers Gemma an extensiveselection of handmade knitwear. With abroad range of styles and colours, JohnSmedley is Gemma’s favorite place to shop.

DemographicsAge:

30 - 45

Gender:

Female

Family Size:

1- 4

Income:

£37,000 - £40,000

Occupation:

Pharmacist, Midwife, Occupational Therapist

Education:

College or University Graduate

Ethnic Background:

All Ethnic Backgrounds

Home Ownership:

Owns Home

Fig 4 - Miss Universe (Mr Style, 2011)


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B u s i n e s s / S

o c i a l

E c o n o m i c

T r e n d s

Fig 5 -Made in England (John Smedley, 2014)


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The Dark Sideof the

Merino Wool IndustryBreeding & Shearing

Merino sheep are selec-

tively bred to produce ahigher bulk of wool, but

because Merino sheep arenot like wild sheep thatshed in the spring, these

animals need to besheared.

Unfortunately,Farmers pay their shearers

by bulk instead of hourly;these sheep gettreated poorly and get

injured. Flystrike/

Mulesing Flystike is whenBlowflies lay their eggs inbetween the wrinkles of a

sheep’s skin.

When this occurs, mag-

gots will then feed onthe skin which could

potentially, if untreat-ed, cause death of thesheep. Mulesing is the

common stoppage offlystike. This is a series

of surgical deductionof the sheep’s skin.

Although anestheticshave been approved to

help the pain for the

animals, most coun-

tries do not have lawsto enforce the use.

Fig 6 - Down on the farm (Blogspot, 2012)


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New Zealandaddressing

Animal Cruelty

In New Zealand, merino sheep are shelteredunder the 1999 NZ AnimalWelfare Act and the 2005 Animal Welfare (Painful HusbandryProcedures) Code of Welfare. These acts and

codes state ” prohibited chemical mulesingbut allowed “surgical mulesing on Merino orMerino-dominant animals farmed in exten-sive situations where there [was] high risk offlystrike and where there [were] no othereffective flystrike preventative measures.”Furthermore, “the procedure [had to] becarried out by competent operators using

clean sharp shears and removing no moreskin than is necessary.” However, followingthe Australians, the NZ merino industry alsoagreed to ban mulesing by the end of 2010,independent of alternative and regulatedmethods of flystrike prevention being madeavailable by that time. (Anne Galloway,

DesignCulture Lab).

By New Zealand addressing animal cruelty ona mass scale with emphasis on mulseing andflystike, this could affect the John Smedley

brand positively. Consumers who are con-cerned or interested in how the product as awhole is produced from the very beginning,they will learn and react to this news withease knowing that John Smedley producestheir products with strong precaution andcare from start to finish and abiding byregulated laws.

Fig 7 - Poetry & Pop Culture (Blogspot, 2013)


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TheLuxury

DeclineAccording to Holly Ellyatt,

Assistant Producer at

CNBC, The luxury market

in 2014 has taken a hit but

has not completely gone

off the radar. According to

the article “Luxury goods

and EM: Bruised but notbeaten”, a reason as to why

the luxury market is

declining could be based

on the rising level of trav-

ellers. The article used the

example of Chinas declin-

ing luxury market and

discovered that the rising

level of travelling has beena great impact.

Ellyatt states

According to another article

“Easing of US Visas for Chi-

nese Travelers Heralds a

Business Boom” by Avery

Booker, nearly 1.8 million

Chinese visited the United

States in 2013 and spent $21

billion dollars. Because of

the booming travelling,

Avery states “Last week, US

President Obama

announced the signing of a

reciprocal visa agreement

with China that will increase

the validity of short-term

tourist and business visas

from one to ten years, andstudent and exchange visas

from one to five years.”

(Booker 2014, Luxury Socie-

ty).

“One danger that the luxury

goods sector could face is a

backlash against brands con-

sumers view as not niche

enough. With the increase in

travel leading to an 'education

process' of consumers becom-

ing ever more discriminating,

ubiquity – or the perception of

consumers that they are

seeing the same brands and

the same products every-

where – became the enemy

[for the luxury sector]. This is

by no means a new theme in

the sector but it is however as

valid as ever.

”- Ellyatt 2014, Fortune

The luxury decline could

be a potential downfall for

the John Smedley brand. If

travelling means these

customer are in hopes of

finding more niche prod-

ucts, then they will be in

disappointment as John

Smedley is primarily based

online. What is shown on

their online retail shop is

what is sold in their

Brooke Street location in

London. John Smedley

does not tailor to specific

locations or countries.


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S W O T A N A L Y

S I S

Fig 8 - John Smedley Christmas Basket (Pinterest, 2014)


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S

TO

W•Broad range of products•Colour options

•Online stress-free browsing

•Luxury materials

•Global presence

•Lack of brick-and-mortar shops

•Branding/Advertising

•Trend based options

•Brick-and-mortar expansions

•Brand/Advertising

•Competitors pricing

•Brand recognition

TRENGTHS EAKNESSES

PPERTUNITIES REATS


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STRENGTHS WEAKNESSESBreadth of Range

John Smedley’s women’s wear category has a broad range of productsincluding trousers, skirts, cardigans, dresses, jackets, shirts, sweaters, vests,capes, and an accessory line including scarves, gloves, and briefs. Theironline store now carries 597 items from the above categories

Depth of Range

John Smedley’s depth to their range is extensive. Their garments come incolour combinations of 9-19 with the average piece having 13 options.

Online Stress-Free Browsing

When shopping online, the website makes browsing stress-free to lookup just the right product for you. The brand lays out the range of clothing insubheadings including category, collection, style detail, trend, style type,material, fit, and clearance sale.

Luxury Materials

John Smedley only uses high quality yarns to produce their garments. Theyarns they use consist of merino wool, cotton, cashmere, and silk andblends of these.

Global Presence

John Smedley has only one retail store on Brooke Street in London,England. Although they do not have a great deal of retail stores, they dosell their brand in 29 different countries across the globe and online.

Lack of Brick-and-Mortar Stores

Although John Smedley sells their garments in 29 differentcountries, their lack of brick-and-mortar stores is a weakness.

Branding/Advertising

John Smedley’s biggest weakness is their branding and adver-tising. Because of the lacking quality to their branding andadvertising, this allows competitors to reach a larger audienceand gain more brand recognition.

Fig 9 - Brooke Street(John Smedley,

Pinterest)


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OPPORTUNITIES THREATS Trend Based Options

John Smedley’s collections and filled with classicand simplistic garments. An opportunity to thebrand is to open up their range to a few trendbased options to keep their customers intriguedand to touch on a missed opportunity.

Brick-and-Mortar Expansions

Although John Smedley’s online presence is theirspecialty, an opportunity rests on expanding intobrick-and-mortar stores. By expanding, the brandcould have an opportunity to magnify their cus-tomer base.

Advertising

John Smedley’s advertising lacks compared to theircompetitors. This opportunity could have an im-mense growth to their brand recognition and salesvolume.

Competitors Pricing

Although John Smedley prides itself on the quality oftheir garments, their competitors who are using thesame materials are pricing their garments at a lowerretail price. This is a potential threat to the brand be-cause if the customer sees the same garment in thesame material they are most likely to purchase thelower priced product.

Brand Recognition

John Smedleys biggest threat is their brand recogni-tion. Because of their lack of advertising andbrick-and-mortar stores, the biggest way they allowfor new consumers is through word of mouth. By tap-ping into these missed opportunities, their brand

recognition will surely rise.


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T R E N

D S

Fig 10 - Press Day (Chase Bond, 2011)


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2015/16 TRENDS IDENTIFIED

Fig 11-20 - Knitwear (SSENSE, 2014)


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C o

l o u r P a l e t t e s

Fig 21 - Feather Cycles FX John Smedley (Cyclesexif, 2012)


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MUTED EARTH TONES

MUTED PIGMENT PASTELS


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C o

l l e c t

i o n

AW

autumn/winter

2015


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JOHN SMEDLEYS

BEST SELLERSIn John Smedley’s Women’s A/W 2013-14 collection, the best sellers wereappointed to the classic Susan boat neck (In colours Midnight, Black,Snow White, Bunny, Papaya, Spanish Pink, Jade, and Lunar Blue), the Moraturtle neck (In colours Black, Charcoal, Silver, Midnight, and Macadamia),the Bela (In colours White, Pumpkin Flower, Silver, Black, Charcoal, Navy,

Spanish Pink, and Firecracker) and Betty (In colours Charcoal, Macadamia,Spanish Pink, and Firecracker) cardigans, the Ellipse scarf (In colours Mid-night and Espresso), and the Josslyn hat (In colours Black, Midnight, and

Silver). Because these styles were so popular with John Smedleys Womenclientele, the Women’s A/W 2014-15 collection will react to this by taking

the previous design and enhancing it to new demands. The following four styles will be enhanced:

Mora: The Mora turtle neck will be enhanced by lowering the neck lineslightly so the tip of the garment will fall mid-neck on the customer (also

known as the nock turtle neck). Will also be done in a smaller gage.Bela: The Bela cardigan will be enhanced by adding a belt to the design to

give the customers the option of closing the garment.Ellipse: The Ellipse scarf will be enhanced by looping the beginning andend yarns together to make an enclosed scarf (also known as a circle

scarf).Josslyn: The Josslyn hat will be enhanced by taking off the pompom on

the tip of the hat. The original Josslyn hat will be readded to the Women’sA/W 2014-15 collection again.

FIG 22- JOHN SMEDLEY’S BELACARDIGAN IN PUMPKIN

FLOWER (John Smedley, 2014)


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John Smedley’s A/W 2015 collection is comprised with a mix offashion trends along with the classic Smedley feel. This collection

has been carefully designed with inspiration taken from runways,our past definitive heritage styles, and the cold England climate. The colours and shades have been wisely handpicked to appealto the John Smedley customer. The creativeness behind the hues

has been taken from vibrant fruits and muted earth tones.

The following is the A/W 2015 full preview

INTRODUCTION TO

C O L L E C T I O N


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Season:A/W 2015/16

Size:S, M, L, XL

Style Number:Angela

Gender:Women’s

Fit:Slim Fit

Gauge:30

Season:A/W 2015/16

Size:S, M, L, XL

Style Number:Penelope

Gender:Women’s

Fit:Slim Fit

Gauge:25

Details:Knee length, slim fit, ribbed neck,

cuffs, and trim, 30 gage dress.

Care:

biological, bleach freedetergent protect the outer surface -shape and iron slightly

damp, using a hot iron cloth to avoid glazing

should check the care labelfound inside your garment.

Fabrics:100% Merino Wool

Colours:

Details:Knee length, panelled front,

added full belt, 25 gage cardigan.

Care:

biological, bleach free recommend:

protect the outer surface -shape and iron, using a

cool iron Specialist Dry Cleaning Only should check the care labelfound inside your garment.

Fabrics:Wool & Cashmere Blend

Colours:

In John Smedley’s past collection, there have been 3 different wool dresses designed; Nemo, Raya,and Dawn. In the A/W 15/16 collection, Angela has been designed to taper into the naturel waist and

extended the neckline to a mock turtle neck.

As previously stated, the Bela cardigan will be enhanced in the A/W 15/16 collection. The new designwill now be called Penelope. Penelope will be enhanced by added a belt to the design so that

consumers will have an option of closing the garment.


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Season

A/W 2015/16

Size:

S, M, L, XL

Style Number:Hannah

Gender:Women’s

Fit:

Easy Fit

Gauge:

25

SeasonA/W 2015/16

Size:S, M, L, XL

Style Number:

Megan

Gender:

Women’s

Fit:

Easy Fit

Gauge:

25Details:Knee length, collar neck, ribbed

cuffs, button down, double frontpocket, 25 gage coat.

Care:

biological, bleach freedetergent

protect the outer surface -shape and iron slightly

damp, using a hot iron warm iron

cloth to avoid glazing

should check the care labelfound inside your garment.

Fabrics:

100% Merino Wool

Colours:

Details:

Collared neck, double armhole,zippered 25 gage poncho.

Care: biological, bleach free

detergent to protect the outer surface

-shape and iron slightlydamp, using a hot iron or low settingwarm iron

cloth to avoid glazing should check the care label

found inside your garment.

Fabrics:

100% Merino Wool

Colours:

A coat has been added to the A/W 15/16 collection. The new design will be called Hannah. Hannah isdesigned as a long wool cardigan that will hit consumer’s knee length. A collar neckline, zipper front

along with 5 buttons, and 2 pockets on either side of the front of the garment.

A poncho has been added to the A/W 15/16 collection. The design will be named Megan. Megan isdesigned with a collar neckline and two arm holes in the front to allow consumers so move without

hassle like capes tend to do. Megan will have a zip up front.


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PG24

Season

A/W 2015/16

Size:

ONE

Style Number:

Brianna

Gender:

Women’s

Fit:

Slim Fit

Gauge:

30

Season

A/W 2015/16

Size:

S, M, L, XL

Style Number:

Lanie

Gender:

Women’s

Fit:

Easy Fit

Gauge:

25

Details:¾ long, rolled back edge, 30 gage

gloves.

Care:

detergent

-

ironing use a damp

Fabrics:

100% Merino Wool

Colours:

Details:

Care:

separately

-

Fabrics:

100% Sea Island Cotton

Colours:

Aggie and Bridgette are the past John Smedley glove designs. Both were simple but came in multiplecolours. In the A/W 15/16 collection, Briana has been designed with 2 different stitching patterns to

give texture to the design and also has been elongated to keep our consumers warmer.

Lanie has been readded to the A/W 15/16 collection as it is a staple John Smedley garment. Newcolours will be added to give consumers more choice.


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Season

A/W 2015/16

Size:

S, M, L, XL

Style Number:

Kristen

Gender:

Women’s

Fit:

Slim Fit

Gauge:

30

Season

A/W 2015/16

Size:

S, M, L, XL

Style Number:

Zoay

Gender:

Women’s

Fit:

Slim Fit

Gauge:

30Details:

Fully fashioned shoulders, roll

neck, ribbed cuffs, 30 gage mock

turtle neck.

Care:

biological, bleach free

detergent

protect the outer surface

-shape and iron slightly

damp, using a hot iron


should check the care label


Fabrics:

100% Merino Wool

Colours:

Details:

pockets, 30 gage skirt.

Care:


recommend:


-shape and iron, using acool iron



Fabrics:

Wool & Cashmere Blend

Colours:

As previously stated, the Mora turtle neck will be enhanced in the A/W 15/16 collection. The newdesign will now be called Kristen. Kristen will be enhanced by lowering the neck line to fall mid-neck

(the mock turtle neck). Kristen will also be done in a lower gage.

A wool skirt has been added to the A/W 15/16 collection. The new design will be called Zoay. Zoay isdesigned as a A-line skirt with added pockets on either side of the front. Zoay has a ribbed band that

tapers to the naturel waist of the consumers.


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PG26

Season

A/W 2015/16

Size:

ONE

Style Number:

Veronica

Gender:

Women’s

Fit:

Slim Fit

Gauge:

30

Season

A/W 2015/16

Size:

ONE

Style Number:

Carlyn

Gender:

Women’s

Fit:

Easy Fit

Gauge:

24

Details:Fully fashioned, looped as one, 24

gage scarf.

Care:


detergent


-shape and iron slightly

damp, using a hot iron

ironing use a damp




Fabrics:

Wool and Cashmere Blend

Colours:

Details:

Full fashioned, ribbed cuff, 30

gage hat.

Care:


recommend:


-shape and iron, using a

cool iron

on you



Fabrics:

Wool and Cashmere Blend

Colours:

As previously stated, the Josslyn hat will be enhanced in the A/W 15/16 collection. The new design willnow be called Veronica. Veronica has been designed with 2 stitching patterns. Unlike Josslyn, Veronica

will not have a pompom added to the tip of the hat.

As previously stated, the Ellipse scarf will be enhanced in the A/W 15/16 collection. The new designwill now be called Carlyn. Carlyn will be enhanced by looping the beginning and end yarns together

to make an enclosed scarf.


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R a n

g e P

l a n

Fig 23 - SS 12 (Pinterest, 2011)


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PG28

Assortment/Range Plan

John Smedley

A/W 2015/16

Collection

Style #: Angela Penelope Hannah Megan Brianna

Description: Taper naturel waist, knee lengthmerino wool dress.

Classic cardigan with additional

belt in wool and cashmere blend.

Men’s inspired coat with front

pockets/buttons in wool.

Full fashioned cape with front

armholes in Merino wool.

¾ gloves with ribbed trim

in Merino wool.

Basic/Core

Fashion Trend

Fashion Basic Basic Fashion Basic

S – M – L – XL 25% - 25% - 25% - 25%(10,000 Limit)

25% - 25% - 25% - 25%

(10,000 Limit)

25% - 25% - 25% - 25%

(5,000 Limit)

25% - 25% - 25% - 25%

(10,000 Limit)

25% - 25% - 25% - 25%

(10,000 Limit)

Cost Price £51.67 £56.75 £124.75 £52.50 £10.35

Margin % 74% 75% 75% 70% 77%

Selling Price £195.00 £225.00 £499.00 £175.00 £45.00

Total Spent (Coat) £516,700 £567,500 £623,750 £525,000 £103,500

*Sizes and limits would normally be based on last year’s sale s.


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Assortment/Range Plan

John SmedleyA/W 2015/16

Collection

Style #: Lanie Kristen Zoay Veronica Carlyn

Description: Classic V neck with ribbed cuffs in100% Merino Wool.

Mock turtle neck and ribbed

cuffs in Merino wool.

A-line skirt with ribbed waist in

wool and cashmere blend.

Classic ribbed band hat in

100% Merino wool.

Looped wool scarf in

Merino wool.

Basic/Core

Fashion Trend

Basic Basic Fashion Basic Fashion

S – M – L - XL 25% - 25% - 25% - 25%(10,000 Limit)

25% - 25% - 25% - 25%

(10,000 Limit)

25% - 25% - 25% - 25%

(10,000 Limit)

25% - 25% - 25% - 25%

(10,000 Limit)

25% - 25% - 25% - 25%

(10,000 Limit)

Cost Price £34.32 £37.12 £30.00 £16.20 £13.33

Margin % 70% 73% 70% 77% 77%

Selling Price £115.00 £139.00 £100.00 £70.00 £60.00

Total Spend(Cost)

£343,200 £371,200 £300,000 £161,000 £133,300

*Sizes and limits would normally be based on last year’s sales.


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PG30


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C o

s t i n g S h e

e t s

Fig 24 - Made in England (John Smedley Pinterest, 2014)


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PG32

John Smedley Costing SheetDate: Jan 15 2015 Style #: Angela Currency: £

Department: Women's Season: A/W 2015/16 SRP: £195.00

FOB Costs: QTY per Weight Trim Item Cost

£132.30 per kg Buttons

Zippers

Care Labels $0.04

Swing Tickets $0.03

Hangers $0.18

Total trim Cost $0.25

Currency Exchange £0.16

CM Cost SMV Cost/SM Cost

Knitt ing 2.4 mins 0.1083*2.4 £0.26

Cutting 30 sec 0.1083/2 £0.05

Linking 45 sec 0.1083/4* £0.08

Washing 1 hour 1040/4000 £0.26

Examine 1.5-2 mins 0.1083*2 £0.22

Finishing 3-8 mins 0.1083*3 £0.32

Package 30-1min 0.1083/4* £0.08

Total £1.27

Total Cost

£50.40

£1.27

£51.67

NZ Merino Wool (0.38kg)

£50.24Total Yarn Cost

Manufacturing Cost

Total CMT Cost

See Appendix Afor

references and equations


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John Smedley Costing SheetDate: Jan 15 2015 Style #: Carlyn Currency: £



£132.20 per kg Buttons

Zippers

Care Labels $0.04

Swing Tickets $0.03

Hangers $0.18

Total trim Cost $0.25



Knitt ing 2.4 mins 0.1083*2.4 £0.26

Cutting 30 sec 0.1083/2 £0.05

Linking 45 sec 0.1083/4* £0.08

Washing 1 hour 1040/4000 £0.26

Examine 1.5-2 mins 0.1083*2 £0.22

Finishing 3-8 mins 0.1083*3 £0.32

Package 30-1min 0.1083/4* £0.08

Total £1.27


£11.90

£12.06

£1.27

£13.33

Total CMT Cost

Manufacturing Cost

Total Cost

Total Yarn Cost

See Appendix Bfor



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PG34

John Smedley Costing SheetDate: Jan 15 2015 Style #: Kristen Currency: £



£132.20 per 1kg Buttons

Zippers

Care Labels $0.04

Swing Tickets $0.03

Hangers $0.18

Total Yarn Cost Total trim Cost $0.25



Knitting 2.4 mins 0.1083*2.4 £0.26

Cutting 30 sec 0.1083/2 £0.05

Linking 45 sec 0.1083/4* £0.08

Washing 1 hour 1040/4000 £0.26

Examine 1.5-2 mins 0.1083*2 £0.22

Finishing 3-8 mins 0.1083*3 £0.32

Package 30-1min 0.1083/4* £0.08

Total £1.27

Manufacturing Cost

Total CMT Cost

Total Cost

NZ Merino Wool (.27kg)

£35.69

£35.85

£1.27

£37.12

See Appendix Cfor



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John Smedley Costing SheetDate: Jan 15th 2015 Style #: Lanie Currency £



$132.20 per 1kg Buttons

Zippers

Care Labels $0.04

Swing Tickets $0.03

Hangers $0.18

Total Yarn Cost Total Trim Cost $0.25



Knitting 2.4 mins 0.1083*2.40 £0.26

Cutting 30 sec 0.1083/2 £0.05

Linking 45 sec 0.1083/4*3 £0.08

Washing 1 hour 1040/4000 £0.26

Examine 1.5-2 mins 0.1083*2 £0.22

Finishing 3-8 mins 0.1083*3 £0.32

Package 30-1min 0.1083/4*3 £0.08

Total £1.27

Manufacturing Cost £33.21

Total CMT Cost £1.27

Total Cost £34.32


£33.05See Appendix D

forreferences and equations


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PG36


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I m a g e R e

f e r e n

c e s



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PG40

Fig 1 - Clarke, P. (2012). Capsule/JohnSmedley. Available: https://www.behance.net/gallery/1798926/CapsualJohn-Smedley-website. Last accessed Jan 11 2015.

Fig 2 - Bevis, D. (2010). Lea Bridge. Available: http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Lea_Bridge_-_John_Smedley_Mill_-_Factory_Shop.jpg. Last accessed Jan 11 2015.

Fig 3 - Wilson, P. (n.d). Brand Watch: John Smedley. Available: http://www.mensfashionmagazine.com/brand-watch-john-smedley. Last accessed Jan 11 2015.

Fig 4 - Mr, Style. (2011). N/A. Available: http://mrstyle1.blogspot.co.uk/2011/09/detalles-miss-universe-2011.html. Last accessed Jan 11 2015.

Fig 5 - Anon. (2014). Made in England. Available: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/204773114277315520/. Last accessed Jan 11 2015.

Fig 6 - Anon. (2012). Down on the farm. Available: https://sfkfsfcfef.wordpress.com/tag/farm/. Last accessed Jan 11 2015.

Fig 7 - Chasar, M. (2013). N/A. Available: http://mikechasar.blogspot.co.uk/2013/05/the-rise-of-creative-reading-melissa.html. Last accessed Jan 11 2015.

Fig 8 - Anon. (2014). John Smedley Christmas Hamper. Available: https://uk.pinterest.com/johnsmedley/john-smedley-christmas-hamper/. Last accessed Jan 12 2015.

Fig 9 - John Smedley. (n.d). Brooke Street. Available: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/204773114277315220/. Last accessed Jan 11 2015.

Fig 10 - Charles, C. (2011). Press Day. Available: http://chasebond.blogspot.co.uk/2011/01/bryan-morel-pr-press-day-2010.html. Last accessed Jan 11 2015.

Fig 11 to 20 - Anon. (2014). Knitwear. Available: https://www.ssense.com/women?q=knitwear. Last accessed Jan 11 2015.

Fig 21 - Anon. (2012). Feather Cycles FX John Smedley. Available: http://www.cycleexif.com/feather-cycles-x-john-smedley. Last accessed Jan 11 2015.

Fig 22 - Anon. (2014). Cardigans. Available: http://www.johnsmedley.com/uk/aw14-bela-in-pumpkin-flower. Last accessed Jan 11 2015.

Fig 23 - Anon. (2012). SS 12. Available: https://uk.pinterest.com/johnsmedley/ss12-capsule-collection/. Last accessed Jan 12 2015.



Fig 26 - Anon. (2015). John Smedley Store. Available: http://www.officetwelve.com/work/repeat/. Last accessed Jan 11 2015.


Fig 28 - Anon. (2014). Limited Edition. Available: https://uk.pinterest.com/search/pins/?q=john%20smedley%20bag. Last accessed Jan 14 2015.



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R e f e r e n

c e s

Fig 28- Limited Edition (Pinterest, 2014)


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B i b l i o g r a p h y



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PG42

Anon. (2013). Is there a bubble in the luxury goods market?.Available: http://fortune.com/2013/01/24/is-there-a-bubble-in-the-luxury-goods-market/. Last accessed 08-12-2014.

Anon. (2014). WOMEN'S TOP 10 COLORS F/W 2015-16 TRENDS. FASHION SNOOPS. Available: http://weconnectfashion.com/fido/getarticle.fcn?&type=trends&SearchString=f/w+2015&id=737870PW0000169&start=2&tr=7. Last accessed 07-12-2014.

Anon. (2014). Fall/Winter 2014 Runway. Available: http://www.colorsolutionsinternational.com/Fall-Winter-2014-Runway.cfm#.VIYzODHF-9V. Last accessed 08-12-2014.

Anon. (2010). cotton. Available: https://oecotextiles.wordpress.com/tag/sea-island-cotton/. Last accessed 08-12-2014.

Anon. (n.d). Wool. Available: http://liberationbc.org/issues/wool. Last accessed 07-12-2014.

Anon. (2014). Bain & Company’s 2014 annual global luxury study proclaims the rise of the consumer as luxury markets settle in for lower, but more sustainable long-term growth. Available:http://www.bain.com/about/press/press-releases/bain-and-companys-2014-annual-global-luxury-study.aspx. Last accessed 08-12-2014.

Anon. (2014). IMAGE & DESIGN LIBRARY. Available: http://www.wgsn.com.ezproxy.ntu.ac.uk/search/-search.php#%7B%22start%22%3A%200%2C%20%22limit%22%3A%2050%2C%20%22f_limit%22%3A%205%2C%20%22q%22%3A%20%22pantone%22%2C%20%22block_markets%5B%5D%22%3A%20%5B. Last accessed 07-12-2014.

Anon. (2015). Best Sellers. Available: http://www.johnsmedley.com/uk/catalogsearch/result/?q=best+sellers. Last accessed Jan 11 2015.Baker, K. (2013). Largest class survey reveals polarised UK society and the rise of new groups. Available: http://www.uk.sagepub.com/aboutus/press/2013/apr/3_apr3.htm. Last accessed 16thoct 2014.

Booker, Avery. (2014). Easing of US Visas for Chinese Travelers Heralds a Business Boom. Available: http://luxurysociety.com/articles/2014/11/easing-of-us-vi-sas-for-chinese-travelers-heralds-a-business-boom. Last accessed 08-12-2014.

BBC. (2013). Huge sur vey reveals seven social classes in UK.Available: http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-22007058. Last accessed 15th oct 2014.

Book, A. (2012). Umbro and John Smedley Olympic collaboration.Available: http://www.fashionising.com/clothing/b--umbro-john-smedley-olympic-collection-27399.html. Last accessed 17thOct 2014.

Braukämper, Tania. (2014). Fall / winter 2015 colour trends..Available: http://www.fashionising.com/trends/b--fall-2015-fashion-trends-autumn-winter-2015-fashion-75173.html. Last accessed

07-12-2014.

Doughty, S. (2013). Are you a precariat, new affluent worker or elite? Study reveals there are now SEVEN social classes in the new jargon-filled British class system Read more: http://www.daily-mail.co.uk/news/article-2. Available: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2303333/Great-British-Class-Survey-reveals-UK-7-social-classes-Are-precariat-new-affluent-worker-elite.html.Last accessed 16th oct 2014.


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Dixon, H. (2013). Average ‘middle class’ Briton earns £25,000 and drives a Ford. Available: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/lifestyle/9929998/Average-mid-dle-class-Briton-earns-25000-and-drives-a-Ford.html. Last accessed 15th Oct 2014.

Dutta, K. (2011). Class exclusive: Seven in 10 of us belong to Middle Britain. Available: http://www.independent.co.uk/news/uk/this-britain/class-exclu-sive-seven-in-10-of-us-belong-to-middle-britain-2247052.html. Last accessed 15th oct 2014.

Esquire. (2012). The Collaboration | John Smedley x Umbro Collection.Available: http://www.esquire.co.uk/style/shoes/548/the-collaboration-john-smedley-x-umbro-collection/. Lastaccessed 17th Oct 2014.

Esquire. (2012). The Collaboration | John Smedley x Comme des Garçons. Available: http://www.esquire.co.uk/style/fashion/757/the-collaboration-john-smedley-x-comme-des-garcons/. Lastaccessed 17th Oct 2014.

Galloway, Anne . (2011). Merino husbandry issues and public concerns. Available: http://designculturelab.org/2011/08/04/merino-husbandry-issues-and-public-concerns/. Last accessed08-12-2014.

Hills, S. (2013). 'Average' Britons who earn £25,000 and drive a Ford see themselves as middle class Read more: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2293690/Brit-ons-earn-25-000-drive-Ford-middle-class.html#ixzz3HZ9. Available: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2293690/Britons-earn-25-000-drive-Ford-middle-class.html. Last accessed 15thoct 2014.

J-Louis, Dorly. (2014). Fashion Forecast: Key Colour Combos Fall 2015 Winter 2016. Available: http://www.dorlydesigns.com/2014/07/fashion-forecast-key-col-our-combos-fall-2015-winter-2016.html#.VHDTWIusW9U. Last accessed 07-12-2014.

Melton, Aria. (n.d). greenopedia. Available: http://greenopedia.com/article/dark-side-wool-industry. Last accessed 08-12-2014.

Liberty London. (2014). ACNE STUDIOS FOR LIBERTY. Available: http://www.liberty.co.uk/fcp/content/acne-liberty/content. Last accessed 17th Oct 2014.

Pieri, K. (2014). WE'RE OBSESSED: A MOTO GONE GIRLY. Available: http://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/fashion-articles/acne-studios-liberty-collection. Last accessed 17th Oct 2014.

Popsugar Fashion. (2009). Lanvin and Acne Denim Collaboration Online; Already Renewed. Available: http://www.popsugar.com/fashion/Lanvin-Acne-Denim-Collabora-tion-Online-Already-Renewed-2621276. Last accessed 16th Oct 2014.

Salter, B. (2013). Average UK gamer is 35, married, earns $38K per year. Available: http://mmgn.com/xboxone/news--average-uk-gamer-is-35-married-earns-38k-per. Last accessed 16th Oc t2014.

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Smith, L. (2013). Britain now divided into SEVEN classes not just upper, middle and working: Which are you?. Available: http://www.mirror.co.uk/news/uk-news/britain-now-divided-sev-en-classes-1806186. Last accessed 15th oct 2014.

Smith, Gary. (2010). Wool Is Cruel. Available: http://www.elephantjournal.com/2010/01/pulling-the-wool-over-our-eyes-gary-smith/. Last accessed 08-12-2014.

Sneddon, Joanne. (2011). How the wool industry has undercut itself on mulesing. Available: http://theconversation.com/how-the-wool-industry-has-undercut-itself-on-mulesing-956. Lastaccessed 08-12-2014.

A


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APPENDIX A - Angela

New Zealand Merino

Wool Yarn

Anon. (2015). New Zealand Merino Wool. Available:

http://www.briarpatch.co.nz/shop/100+New+Zealand+Merino+-

+Organically+Grown.html. Last accessed Jan 15 2015.

Swing Tickets Anon. (n.d). Swing Tickets. Available:http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Popular-swing-ticket_508160669.html. Last accessed Jan 12 2015.

Care Labels Anon. (n.d). Care Labels. Available:http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/custom-wholesale-

clothing-label-polyester-cotton_2000469481.html. Last accessedJan 12 2015.

Wooden Hangers Anon. (n.d). Wooden Luxury Hangers. Available:http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Luxury-Wooden-

Hangers-with-Cross-Bar_590422408.html. Last accessed Jan 122015.

C.M Costs Based on notes taken during our John Smedley Factor visit.

Weight of Garment

Equations

Washing: 1 Hour Washers Salary: =8 (hours/day) X £6.50 (wage)

=£52 X 5 (days/week)

=£260 X 48 (weeks/year)

=£12,480

4000 garments per month

=£1,040 (months’ salary) / 4000

=£0.26 per garment

Knitting: 2.40 mins Mins to make garment

=4000 / 20 (days worked)

=200 (garments/day) / 8 (hours worked)

=25 (garments/hour)

=60 (mins) / 25

=2.40

Price to make garment

=6.50 (wage) X 60 (mins)

=0.1083 (wage/min) X 2.40 (mins to make)

=0.26 per garment

Cutting: 30 sec Price to make garment

=6.50 (wage) X 60 (mins/hour)

=0.1083 (wage/min) / 2

=0.05 per garment

Linking: 45 sec Price to make garment


=0.1083 / 4 (quarter mins)

=0.027075 X 3 (min quarters)

=0.08 per garment

Examine: 1.5 – 2 mins Per Garment

=6.50 (wage) X 60 (mins/hour)=0.1083 X 2 (minutes)

=0.22 per garment

Finishing: 3 – 8 mins

(Depending on

Buttons, collars, etc)

Per garment


=0.1083 X 3 (mins)

=0.32 per garment

Packaging: 30s -1 min Per garment

=6.50 (wage) X 60 (mins)

=0.1083 / 4 (quarters)

=0.027075 X 3(quarters)

=0.08 per garment

Weight of

Garment/Price

132.20 = 1kg merino wool

Price for garment

=1 (kg) - .38 (weight)

=.62

=132.20 X .62

=81.96

=132.20 – 81.96

= 50.24

Mark-up % Retail – Cost X 100

Retail

195.00 – 51.67 X 100195.00

74% Mark-up

*Wages for workers are based on the minimum wage in the U.K

A P P

E N D I X A

B


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=6.50 (wage) X 60 (mins)

=0.1083 / 4 (quarters)

=0.027075 X 3(quarters)

=0.08 per garment

Weight of

Garment/Price

132.20 = 1kg merino wool

Price for garment

=1 (kg) – 0.09 (weight)

= 0.91

=132.20 X 0.91

=120.30

=132.20 – 120.30

=11.90Mark-up % Retail – Cost X 100

Retail

60.00 – 13.33 X 100

60.00

77% Mark-up


APPENDIX B - Carlyn

New Zealand Merino

Wool Yarn


http://www.briarpatch.co.nz/shop/100+New+Zealand+Merino+-

+Organically+Grown.html. Last accessed Jan 15 2015.

Swing Tickets Anon. (n.d). Swing Tickets. Available:http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Popular-swing-

ticket_508160669.html. Last accessed Jan 12 2015.


clothing-label-polyester-cotton_2000469481.html. Last accessed

Jan 12 2015.

Wooden Hangers Anon. (n.d). Wooden Luxury Hangers. Available:

http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Luxury-Wooden-Hangers-with-Cross-Bar_590422408.html. Last accessed Jan 122015.


Weight of Garment Anon. (2015). Reversible Beanie. Available:http://www.minus33.com/shop-merino-wool/accessories-2/sb-reversible-beanie/. Last accessed Jan 15 2015.

Equations




=£12,480


=£1,040 (months’ salary) / 4000

=£0.26 per garment



=200 (garments/day) / 8 (hours worked)=25 (garments/hour)

=60 (mins) / 25

=2.40


=6.50 (wage) X 60 (mins)


=0.26 per garment



=0.1083 (wage/min) / 2

=0.05 per garment





=0.08 per garment



=0.1083 X 2 (minutes)

=0.22 per garment


(Depending on


Per garment


=0.1083 X 3 (mins)

=0.32 per garment


A P P

E N D I X B

C


52/54

=6.50 (wage) X 60 (mins)

=0.1083 / 4 (quarters)

=0.027075 X 3(quarters)

=0.08 per garment

Weight of

Garment/Price 132.20 = 1kg merino wool

Price for garment

=1 (kg) - .27 (weight)

=.73

=132.20 X .73

=96.51

=132.20 – 96.51

=35.69Mark-up % Retail – Cost X 100

Retail

139.00 – 37.12 X 100

139.00

73% Mark-up


APPENDIX C - Kristen

New Zealand Merino

Wool Yarn


http://www.briarpatch.co.nz/shop/100+New+Zealand+Merino+-+Organically+Grown.html. Last accessed Jan 15 2015.



clothing-label-polyester-cotton_2000469481.html. Last accessedJan 12 2015.

Wooden Hangers Anon. (n.d). Wooden Luxury Hangers. Available:http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Luxury-Wooden-Hangers-with-Cross-Bar_590422408.html. Last accessed Jan 122015.


Weight of Garment Anon. (2015). Women's Lightweight. Available:http://www.minus33.com/shop-merino-wool/minus33/liberty-womens-lightweight-14-zip/. Last accessed Jan 15 2015.

Equations




=£12,480


=£1,040 (months’ salary) / 4000

=£0.26 per garment




=25 (garments/hour)

=60 (mins) / 25

=2.40


=6.50 (wage) X 60 (mins)


=0.26 per garment



=0.1083 (wage/min) / 2

=0.05 per garment





=0.08 per garment

Examine: 1.5 – 2 mins

Per Garment=6.50 (wage) X 60 (mins/hour)

=0.1083 X 2 (minutes)

=0.22 per garment


(Depending on


Per garment


=0.1083 X 3 (mins)

=0.32 per garment


=6.50 (wage) X 60 (mins)

A P P

E N D I X C

D


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APPENDIX D – Lanie

New Zealand Merino

Wool Yarn

Anon. (2015). New Zealand Merino Wool. Available:http://www.briarpatch.co.nz/shop/100+New+Zealand+Merino+-+Organically+Grown.html. Last accessed Jan 15 2015.


Care Labels Anon. (n.d). Care Labels. Available:

http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/custom-wholesale-clothing-label-polyester-cotton_2000469481.html. Last accessedJan 12 2015.

Wooden Hangers Anon. (n.d). Wooden Luxury Hangers. Available:http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Luxury-Wooden-

Hangers-with-Cross-Bar_590422408.html. Last accessed Jan 122015.


Weight of Garment Anon. (2015). Women's Midnight Crew. Available:http://www.minus33.com/shop-merino-wool/minus33/ossipee-womens-midweight-crew/. Last accessed Jan 15 2015.

Equations




=£12,480


=£1,040 (months’ salary) / 4000

=£0.26 per garment




=25 (garments/hour)

=60 (mins) / 25

=2.40


=6.50 (wage) X 60 (mins)


=0.26 per garment



=0.1083 (wage/min) / 2

=0.05 per garment





=0.08 per garment



=0.1083 X 2 (minutes)

=0.22 per garment


(Depending on


Per garment


=0.1083 X 3 (mins)

=0.32 per garment


=6.50 (wage) X 60 (mins)

=0.1083 / 4 (quarters)

=0.027075 X 3(quarters)

=0.08 per garment

Weight of

Garment/Price 132.20 = 1kg merino wool

Price for garment

=1 (kg) - .25 (weight)

=.75

=132.20 X .75

=99.15

=132.20 – 99.15

= 33.05

Mark-up % Retail – Cost X 100

Retail

115.00 – 34.32 X 100

115.00

70% Mark-up


A P P E N D I X D


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Final Word Count

2543

john smedley

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