jewelry glossary

8/4/2019 Jewelry Glossary

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Abalone:

A deposit made from inside a seashell, also called mother-of-pearl.Abraded culet:A chipped or scratched culet. Can be caused by contact with anotherdiamond.Abrasion:A bruise or scratch on the surface of a stone.Agate:A variety of chalcedony found in all colors; used extensively in Scottishjewelry

AGS:American Gem Society. Professional organization formed in 1934 by severalindependent jewelers and the founder of the Gemological Institute of America(GIA). The AGS is dedicated to setting and maintaining ethical standards andpractices within the industry.Aigrette:A hair ornament consisting of feather plume or spray of glitter oftenaccentuated by either a jewel or buckle. Worn in the hair or attached to headbandA Jour:Open setting that leaves the pavilion facets open to the lightAlexandrite:Discovered in 1830 in Russia, and named after Czar Alexander II of who wasthen Crown Prince of Russia, alexandrite is a form of the mineral chrysoberylnoted for its color change in different forms of light. In sunlight, alexandritelooks blue-green, but in indoor (tungsten) light it the same stone changes toreddish-purple. Natural alexandrite with good color is very expensive today,as very little is still being mined, and there are many synthetics on the market.Synthetic color-change sapphire is also sometimes mistaken for alexandrite.Alloy:Combination of metals fused together; base metal mixed with precious ore to

make it workable, to harden it, or to change its color.Aluminum:A silver white metal that is lightweight and malleableAmazonite:An opaque form of feldsparAmber:The fossilized resin of prehistoric pine trees which ranges in color from goldento orange-redAmethyst:Ranked among the most precious stones until the eighteenth century when a

large South American deposit was found. Its purple color is thought to becaused by iron and is still very popular.
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Amulet:A pendant or charm that is worn for protective magical power.Anneal:The process of hardening glass pottery or metal by alternately heating andpounding it.Anodized:An anode is the positive end of an electrical circuit. In the anodizationprocess, a metal object is placed in an acid bath and an electrical current ispassed through the tank. The process causes oxygen atoms to bond to thesurface of the metal giving it a thin, protective film and lustrous sheen.Antique:Any object that is 100 years or more old.Antiquing:Process of darkening the recessed areas of gold or silver jewelry to enhancethe visibility of the engraving, thus lending the look of age. Platinum cannot be

Antiqued.Antwerp:Perhaps the most noteworthy and versatile diamond-cutting center in theworld. All sizes and shapes of rough diamonds are cut in Antwerp.Appraisal:A monetary evaluation, usually performed for insurance purposes by agemologist. Appraisals should describe the piece in detail, including color,clarity, proportions, stone sizes, flaws and other distinguishing characteristics.Arabesque:Flowing scroll Work epitomized by curlicues in low relief

Art Deco:A style characterized by angular geometric shapes, zigzags, bold colors,molded or faceted Czech glass beads, plastics (like celluloid or Bakelite) andchrome, unlike the curves of the previous era. Also known as the geometricstyle that succeeded Edwardian jewelry beginning in the 1910s through themid-1920's. Colored stones were utilized more, and the opaque stones suchas jade, onyx and coral were set in geometric shapes. Sleek animals such asBorzoi and Greyhound dogs were featured in some designs. It started out withrelatively delicate designs, and progressed to a more bold and blocky stylealso called Art Moderne.Art Nouveau:A style also known as "Victorian" or "Edwardian" consisting of fluid lines, floraland nature themes and natural colors. Also known for its flowing style withsinuous curves and naturalistic motifs that was popular from about 1895 to1905. A common motif was a women's head with flowing hair.Articulated:Jewelry Constructed with hinges to make it flexible; jewelry with movablepartsArts and Crafts:A design movement that began in the late 1800s as a rebellion against themass-produced, machine made designs of questionable aesthetic value

common in the late Victorian era. The designers felt that their work shouldlook handmade, and therefore they often left hammer marks on the piece.


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Although pieces were made of gold, silver was more commonly used toemphasize the craftsmanship of the piece rather than the intrinsic value of thecomponents. Stones were commonly less expensive. Cabochon stones suchas moonstone, mother or pearl, agate, amber, and enamel work was alsoused.

Assay:The process of establishing the standards of purity of gold, silver, and otheralloys to reach the required Legal standard without actually analyzing the totalcomposition of the alloy. After successful assay, the article is hallmarked.Aurora Borealis:The term Aurora Borealis is Latin and means Northern Lights. Aurora Borealisrhinestones are glass stones that have a special iridescent coating that shineswith many colors; iridescentBBaguette:

Narrow Rectangular-cut stoneBail:The connector at the top of a pendant enabling the pendant to hang from achain or jump ringBakelite:A synthetic patented in 1909, bakelite, also called catalin, was used in jewelryextensively during the U.S. Great Depression of the 1930's. Bakelite can bemolded, lathe-carved, and one color can be inlaid into another, as in polkadots. The inlaid and carved pieces are especially popular with collectors

today. It has a distinct scent when rubbed to warm, somewhat likeformaldehyde. Watch for both outright repros, and later plastics from the last20-30 years that might be mistaken for bakelite by the inexperienced.Bandeau:Head ornament in the form of a narrow band worn low, encircling the foreheadBangle:Non-flexible braceletBaroque:Bold, ornate Heavy looking ornamentation. When the term is used to describea pearl (either real of fake) it means that the shape of the pearl is irregular

Basse-taille:This describes a technique of applying glass enamel to a metal surface thathas been engraved deeply enough to hold the enamel when heated and withsides high enough to keep the enamel colors separate.Bearding:Small feather-like cracks along the girdle of a diamond.Belle Epoque:Another name for the Edwardian period.Berlin Iron:Cast iron jewelry worked into delicate openwork patterns, and made in Berlinduring the first half of the nineteenth centuryBezel:


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setting for a stone that has a collar instead of prongs to secure the stoneBijouterie:Art of working in gold and enamelBiwa Pearl:Freshwater cultured pearl from JapanBlemish:A flaw, spot or scratch on the surface of a gemstone.Blister Pearl:Irregularly shaped and hollow pearl cut from the shell of the oysterBlue Topaz:A topaz that is light brown or colorless when mined but turns a vivid bluewhen exposed to heat. Blue Topaz is an alternate birthstone for DecemberBog Oak:Wood that was preserved over thousands of years in the bogs of Irelandwhich was hard enough to be Carved and used as jewelry. Popular during

Victorian times.Bolt ring:A finding that is a hollow or partially hollow connecting ring which is drawnback on an internal springBook Chain:Victorian Style of chain made in gold, gold filled, and sterling silver in whicheach link is a rectangular folded piece of metal resembling a book. They wereoften elaborately engraved and had large lockets attached.Borax:A flux used in soldering

Box Setting:A stone enclosed in a box-shaped setting with metal edges pressed down tohold the stone in place. Also referred to as Gypsy mountingBrass:An alloy made up of roughly half copper and half zinc which has a nice yellowcolor.Brilliance:The intensity and amount of light reflecting from inside a diamond orgemstone.Brilliant cut:

The standard round brilliant consists of a total of 58 facets: 1 table, 8 bezelfacets, 8 star facets, and 16 upper-girdle facets on the crown and 8 pavilionfacets, 16 lower-girdle facets and usually a culet on the pavilion or base.Although the brilliant style was devised to give maximum brilliancy and fire,many stones cut in this fashion do not have ideal proportions or angles forthat purpose. Modifications of the round brilliant include such fancy shapes asthe marquise, half moon, pear shape, and many others. See also Round Cut.Briolette:A pear-shaped stone that is facetedBrooch:A Large pin; An ornamental piece of jewelry with a pin and clasp to beattached to clothing. From the French word Broche, meaning to pierce or anobject/weapon made for piercing.


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Bronze:A very Dense and heavy alloy of 60% copper and 40% tin. It has a dull browncolor and is not Favored for jewelry because of the weight.Brushed Finish:A finish also known as Satin finish, is a texturing technique that can be used

on metals where a series of tiny parallel lines are scratched onto the surfacewith a wire brush or Polishing tool.Buff top cabochon:Style of stone cutting where the top of the gemstone is a dome (en cabochon)and the pavilion is facetedBulla:Two concave plates that form a hollow receptacle, a form used in ancientjewelryC

C catch:The most Common means of securing a brooch before safety catches wereinvented. The pin, connected to one side of the brooch, is threaded through alayer of the Garment and rests in a C shaped catch on the other side of thebrooch. The C had no mechanism to hold the pin in place and so the pinswere usually designed to be long enough to extend far enough beyond theend of the brooch to weave back into the garment for security.Cabochon:Dome-shaped stone without facetsCalibre Cut:Small stones that are faceted and cut into squares, rectangles, or oblongs andset close together; used to add details to jewelry designsCaliper:Instrument for determining the thickness or diameter of a gemstone.Cameo:A layered stone, frequently banded agate or sea shell, that has been carvedwith either a woman's profile (most common), man's profile, a natural scene,or with themes involving the Greek and Roman Gods and Goddesses. As thecarver removed material from the surface the different layers beneath wererevealed, most often showing different colors or shades which created a 3-

dimensional quality to the scene or image.Cameo Habille:Most often this is depiction of a female who is carved wearing a diamondpendant, earrings, or a crown; the carver adds a small (real or fake) stone tothe piece by drilling a small hole in the cameo then setting the tiny stone,which is wired to the back of the cameoCannetille:A firework decoration which uses coiled and twisted gold wire to achieve adelicate scrolling effectCarat:A unit of weight for diamonds and other gems. The carat formerly variedsomewhat in different countries but the metric Carat of .2 grams, or 200milligrams, was adopted in the United States and is now standardized in the


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principal countries of the world. There are 100 points in a carat. It issometimes incorrectly spelled karat, but in the USA karat refers only to thefineness of pure gold and gold alloys.Carbuncle:A garnet cut en cabochon

Carnelian:A translucent red or orange variety of chalcedony, sometimes banded red andorange like an agate. Once believed to benefit the wearer's health and lovelife. Most carnelian comes from Brazil, India, Siberia, and GermanyCartouche:A swirling or scroll-like decoration that is most often a symmetrical design andis usually engraved as an embellishment; often found on Victorian jewelry,coats of arms, monograms, family crests, and emblemsCasting:Method of shaping metal by melting and then pouring into a hollow mold. The

casted piece is slightly more porous with a rough surface that requiresadditional polishing and finishing.Catalin:Trade name for an early phenol plasticCelluloid:A very thin, highly flammable plastic containing camphor. Celluloid is an earlyplastic that was invented in 1868 and used in jewelry to simulate tortoise shell,coral, and alabaster. It was quickly abandoned for heavier, more stableplastics.Celluloid:

Made of soluble gun cotton and camphor; resembling ivory in texture andcolor. Celluloid can also be dyed to resemble coral, tortoise shell, amber, andother natural stones. Because Celluloid is highly flammable, it enjoyed briefpopularity before it was replaced by more stable products which came intoexistence in the 1930's; the phenolic resins.Celtic:Designs that are derived from the ancient Irish, Gaelic, British, Scottish,Welsh symbolsChalcedony:A quartz, greyish-blue in colorChasing:A method of decorating the front or outside of metal objects by makingindentations using shaped punches and a chasing hammer. The opposite ofchasing is repousse.Chaton Cut:Round crystal jewelry stone shape with 12 facets on the pointed back.Champlev:An enameling Technique in which areas of metal are cut, etched, or routedand then filled with enamel or molten glass. Most commonly applied to copperor bronze.Channel Setting:Stone setting method that fits stones of uniform size into a channel to form acontinuous strip.


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Chtelaine:In Victorian days, a woman did not have pockets. A chtelaine was pinned at awoman's waist with several chains suspended from it, most commonly holdingscissors, keys, a thimble, a comb, and other household necessities. Today, achtelaine pin most commonly refers to pins that are joined together by small

chains.Choker:short necklace generally less than 14 long.Chrome:A hard,brittle, grayish-white metal fusible with difficulty and resistant tocorrosion. Its chief commercial importance is for its compounds, which arebrilliantly colored and are used in dyeing and calico printing. The commonmodern usage is for very shiny metal objects like chrome bumpers etc.Chrysoberyl:A semi-precious stone of transparent golden yellow, green yellow or brown

Cire-perdue:See CastingCitrine:A variety of quartz, citrine occurs in a color range ranging from light yellow toa brilliant orange that may be confused with fine imperial topaz.Clarity:One of the "Four Cs". Measures the degree to which a gemstone is free fromflaws. A clarity scale is used to grade flaws in gemstones. The scale rangesfrom FL (Flawless) where there are no visible internal or external flaws to I3,where many imperfections are visible to the naked eye. cleavage Tendency of

a crystalline material to break in certain directions, often along a grain orcrystal face.Cloisonn:Another technique of enameling whereby the enamel colored glass powder isplaced into pockets or cells of metal then baked and cooled to solidify. Themetal portions have high walls that keep the colors from running into eachother during firing.Cloud:Group of tiny white inclusions in a diamond.Collet:Round band of metal encircling a gemstone to hold it in placeCollier:A wide necklace encircling the neck from throat to chinColor:One of the "Four Cs". In diamonds, the color scale ranges from D (colorless)to Z (yellow). In colored gemstones, the grading scale differs widelydepending on the type of stone.Comfort:fit Ring design in which the edges of the shank are rounded for maximumcomfort.Copper:Common reddish-brown metallic element, copper is the only metal whichoccurs abundantly in large masses as opposed to small veins or nuggets that


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must be mined out of other rocks. When alloyed with tin it forms bronze andwhen alloyed with zinc it forms Brass. Copper is an excellent conductor ofheat and electricity and is widely used for electrical wiring as well as waterpiping and corrosion-resistant parts. When in moist conditions, a greenishlayer forms on the outside. It has been extracted and used for thousands of

years.Coral:Coral is a form of calcium carbonate secreted in long chains by coral polypswho live in colonies under the ocean. Coral can be found all over the worldbut the bulk of coral used in jewelry making has always come from the watersoff Sardinia and the coast of Sicily in the Mediterranean. Coral comes incolors from vivid orange, red, and white to Salmon and pale pink called angelskin coral. In jewelry making, coral is either carved into beads, cameos, andother forms or is left in its natural branch-like form and just polished. Duringthe mid-Victorian era, large cameo brooches of coral finely carved in high-relief floral sprays or faces were popular. It used to be thought that coralprotected the wearer, so it was a traditional gift to children. Since it iscomposed of calcium carbonate, real coral will effervesce if touched with acidlike lemon juice. Imitation coral is made from glass porcelain or plastic and willnot effervesce when Touched with acid.Creole earrings:A hoop earring broader at the bottom than at the top, popular in the 1850sCross facet:Small triangular facets above and below the girdle of a brilliant cut stoneCrown:The facets or portions of a gemstone located above the girdle.

Crystal:There are two basic kinds of crystal - rock crystal and man-made. Rockcrystal is the common name for the silicate mineral, quartz, which is a semi-precious stone that occurs in nature. A man-made crystal is produced from amixture of quartz and soda potash and lead oxide. Oddly enough, rock crystalhas nowhere near the color or brilliance of manufactured crystal.Cubic Zirconium:Cubic Zirconium are Man made gems which appear very much like diamondsyet do not have the same intrinsic Properties such as hardness. CZ'z, as theyare often called, are mass Produced and much less expensive than natural

diamonds.Culet:The pointed Bottom of the pavilion; sometimes polished with a tiny facet;sometimes pointed with no facet.Cultured pearl:An oyster or mollusk is artificially seeded with a tiny grain of sand. Themollusk then excretes a coating to protect itself from the irritant. Severallayers are accreted creating real pearl.Cushion Cut:A square or rectangular stone that has rounded corners; also called antiquecut. The older form of the brilliant cut having a girdle outline approaching asquare with rounded corners. Essentially an old-mine cut.


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Cut:One of the "Four Cs". Perhaps the most important factor in determining thevalue of a diamond or gemstone. The cut refers to the geometric proportionthat dictates the reflection and refraction of light within a stone.Cut Steel:Steel studs that have been machine stamped, cut with facets, and highlypolished. In the days before electricity the faceted steel would be quitebrilliant, giving the impression of gemstones in candlelight. Most frequentlyused from 1750 1870; highly susceptible to rust and corrosion. Finding it ingood condition today is not common.DDamascene:

Refers to a type of jewelry that today most often comes from Spain. Thejewelry is inlaid or engraved with gold or silver metals and black enamel

Originated in the 14th century in Damascus hence the name.Demi-parure:A partial set of jewelry. A full set usually includes a necklace, earrings,bracelet, and brooch (all matching). A demi (demi is the French word for half)is a jewelry set that is not a full set; it could refer to any combination such as anecklace and brooch or a bracelet and earrings, but is lacking the otherpieces of a full setDepose:The rights or patent granted for an exclusive jewelry design in France. If thereverse of a piece of jewelry is stamped Depose, it was made in France. The

literal translation is hand made.Depth:The distance from a gemstone's table to its culet (top to bottom).Depth percentage:The measurement of a gemstone's depth (top to bottom) in relation to itsdiameter. Depth percentage is primarily responsible for refraction, whichproduces the fire or sparkle in a gemstone.Diadems:A semi circular band worn around the head and usually jeweled and threedimensional

Diamond:A mineral composed essentially of carbon that crystallizes in the cubic orisometric crystal system and is therefore singly refractive. It is by far thehardest of all known natural substances. Only man made Borazon andSynthetic diamonds are as hard. In its transparent form, it is the mostcherished and among the most highly valued gemstones. It occurs in colorsranging from colorless to yellow, brown, orange, green, blue, and violet.Reddish stones are known, but those of an intense red color approaching thatof a ruby are excessively rare. Its hardness and high refractive index (2.417)permits it to be fashioned as the most brilliant of all gems and its dispersion(.044) produces a high degree of fire. The specific gravity is 3.52.

Diamond Cut:A name sometimes used in the colored-stone trade for brilliant cut.


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Dog Collar:Popular during the Victorian era, this was a snug Necklace made either ofrows of pearls or beads and usually worn high up on the neck. Alsosometimes a ribbon was used with a jewel at the front and tied in back. It wasmade popular in the late Victorian and Edwardian periods by Queen

Alexandra who had a long, graceful neck.Duette:A combination of two clips on a pin back. Duette was a registered design byCoro, but is now used generically for this design.EEdwardian:

Refers to the period during the reign of Edward VII of England (1901-1910),but the style has it's beginnings during the final years of Victoria's reign, andcontinued until shortly before World War I when the more geometric

influences later to be called Art Deco began to make headway. In jewelry, thisperiod was characterized by delicate filigree in white gold and platinum, withdiamonds and pearls predominating, and colored stones used less frequently,producing a light, monochromatic look. Delicate bows, swags, and garlandeffects were used in necklaces and brooches. Both dog collars, and longfringed necklaces were also "in", being popularized by the graceful, long-necked Queen Alexandra.Electro-plating:the process of applying metal (most often gold) to adhere to the surface ofanother metal using electrical current.

Emerald:A gemstone of the beryl family, fine emeralds are among the most valuablegemstones. Unlike most gemstones, flaws (called inclusions by gemologists)are quite common in emeralds, so they lower the value much less than withother precious stones such a diamonds. The most highly prized emeralds aremined in Columbia. A valuable emerald will be a bright, vividly colored green.Those with a slight blue cast to the bright green are actually the most valuablecolor. Many emeralds seen in jewelry are of relatively low quality. They areoften dyed or oiled to improve the color and minimize flaws. If an emeraldappears to be very fine, it may actually be a synthetic. There are several typesof synthetic emeralds on the market, and some of them are challenging to

identify, even for a trained gemologist.Emerald Cut:A form of step cutting, it usually is rectangular but sometimes is square, inwhich case it is known as square emerald cut. It has rows (steps) of elongatedfacets on the crown and pavilion parallel to the girdle, with sets on each offour sides and at the corners. The number of rows or steps may vary althoughthe usual number is three on the Crown and three on the pavilion. Theemerald cut is seldom used for diamonds in the intermediate color grades,since it tends to emphasize color. It is excellent however for colorless stonesand when it is desirable to emphasize the color of fancy colors.

Empire earrings:The distinctive hoop shape of Roman earrings of around 1st century BC with


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freshwater pearls or amethysts in sterling or gold.Enamel:A glass powder or paste that is applied to metal then fired in an annealingoven to Bake the glass onto the metal.Engraving:The process of decorating metal by etching a design into its surfaceEn Tremblant:A movable, trembling effect generally achieved through the use of coiledsprings of metal mounted underneath the portion of the brooch that isintended to move; often found in antique Brooches or hair ornaments.Etching:Removal of part of a metal surface by acid for a decorative effectEtui:Small cylindrical case that hangs from a chatelaineEuropean Cut:Now mostly obsolete,a style of diamond cutting popular from approximately1890 to the 1930's, typified by a round girdle, a smaller table in relation to thediameter of the stone and a large culet. The large culet appears to create ahole at the bottom of the diamond when viewed from the top since the largeculet lets light escape instead of reflecting back to the Viewer.Extinction:Dark or black spots in colored stone.Eye-clean:Gemstone in which the flaws cannot be seen without a 10x loupe.FFacet:

A plane, polished surface on a stone.Faience:Glazed porcelain or earthenwareFancy Cut:Any style of diamond cutting other than the round brilliant or single cut. Fancycuts include the marquise, emerald cut, heart shape, pear shape, keystone,half moon, kite, triangle, and many others. Also called the fancy-shapeddiamond or modern cut

Faux:French word meaning false, fake, imitation, or artificial. In manufacturingcontext, faux is used to indicate something made to resemble something else.Feather:Internal flaw (inclusion) that has a feathery appearance.Fede ring:A ring with two hands clasped together firstFerronnire:Narrow band with a center jewel worn encircling the foreheadFestoon:Design motif of a garland or string of flowers, leaves and ribbonsFibula:


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Archaeological term for broochFiligree:Thin strands of wire are intricately interlaced or bent into rosettes, spirals,scrolls, or vines. The wire is typically gold or silver and may be plain, twisted,or plaited. There are two major styles of filigree. The first is to solder the wire

to a metal base. The second style is to leave the wire as an openwork designwithout a metal backing which is a characteristic of European jewelry until the15th century. Filigree was used on Jewish marriage rings as well as Spanishand Portuguese peasant jewelry. In England it is found on some mourningrings.Findings:All types of construction components used in jewelry making such as clasps,pins, hooks, tabs, etc.Finish:Finish is used to describe the polish or texture applied to metal. Common

finishes include high polish, matte, or brushed.Fire:Flashes of different spectrum colors seen in diamonds and other gemstonesas the result of dispersion.Flaw:General term used to refer to internal or external characteristics of agemstone (i.e., inclusion, fracture, etc)Flawless:Term used to describe a gemstone that lacks discernable internal or externalblemishes when viewed by a gemologist using no less than 10x magnification.

Fleur-de-lys:From old French Flor de lis: Flor (flower) + de (of) + lis (lily). A stylized,three-petaled iris flower used as the armorial emblem of the Kings of France;re-popularized by Napoleon. It is commonly found in jewelry.Florentine Finish:Florentine finish is a cross-hatched pattern tooled into the surface of metal.The lines are often coarse and more deep than that of a brushed finish.Fluorescence:Luminescence that appears when certain diamonds are exposed to ultravioletlight.Flux:Material used in solderingFob:A short chain or ribbon attached to a pocket watch, often with an ornament ordecorative seal attached to the end.Foil:The reflective coating on the back of a gemstone or rhinestones to increasebrilliance and depth of color. It was often used on gemstones in the 18th and19th centuries. Today foiling is mostly used on rhinestones.Fracture:Cracks, feathers or chips in a gemstone.

French Ivory:A plastic produced to simulate ivory. It was first Produced by the Xylonite


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Company in 1866. Other names include Celluloid, Ivoride, Ivorine, and PyralinFrench Jet:Black glass that is neither French nor Jet. Originally meant to simulate real jetwhich is black ignite (fossilized coal). Victorian jet was made into jewelry foruse during mourning and was made popular by Queen Victoria. As a result,

sources of natural jet were quickly depleted.French wire:A curved wire resembling a fish hook which passes through the piercedearlobe and has a catch closure. It is mostly used with dangling earrings dueto their extra weight.Freshwater Pearls:An irregular pearl of various colors produced by fresh water mollusks such asmussels and clams. Popular in Roman jewelry for its irregular shape andrelative availability.Full-cut Brilliant:

A brilliant-cut diamond or colored stone with the usual total of 58 facetsconsisting of: 32 facets and a Table above the girdle; and 24 facets and aculet below.Full Lead Crystal:Full lead crystal is the finest man-made crystal, because its high lead oxidecontent serves to enhance its natural color spectrum.GGarnet:

A family of stones having many varieties in color and in their constituents, but

all are silicates with the same isometric crystallization and conforming to thesame general chemical formula. The name is derived from its resemblance incolor and shape to the seeds of the pomegranate. The most common color ofgarnets range from light red to violet or plum-red, but can also be white,green, yellow, brown, and black. It was believed that the wearer of garnetswas kept in good health and protected while traveling. Garnets are worn tosignify truth and faith. Red garnet is the Birthstone for January.Gemologist:Gemstone specialist trained in gem identification, grading and appraising.Gemology:Science and study of gemstones.

Gemstones:Include diamond, brilliant, beryl, emerald chalcedony, agate, heliotrope; onyx,plasma; tourmaline, chrysolite; sapphire, ruby, synthetic ruby; spinel, spinelle;oriental topaz; turquoise, zircon, cubic zirconia; jacinth, hyacinth, carbuncle,amethyst; alexandrite, cat's eye, bloodstone, hematite, jasper, moonstone,sunstone.Gerlots:Small long pendant beadsGIA:Gemological Institute of America. Non-profit organization specializing in

grading diamonds and gemstones. Widely held as the premier laboratory forgemological grading.


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Gilding:An Object decorated with a thin layer of gold, gold leaf, or gold foil.Gilt:Gold PlatedGimmel ring:A ring formed of two or more linked hoops, which fit together in a manner thatmake them appear as one ringGirandole:A shape that consists of three pear-shaped stones or pearls hanging from alarge stone or decorative motif such as a bowGirdle:The outer edge or periphery of a fashioned stone; the portion that is usuallygrasped by the setting or mounting; the dividing line between the crown andpavilion; the rim or edge of the diamond. The girdle plane is the largestdiameter of the stone.

Gold:Because pure gold is too soft to resist prolonged handling, it is usually alloyedwith other metals to increase its hardness for use in jewelry, gold ware, orcoinage. Most gold used in jewelry is alloyed with silver, copper, and a littlezinc to produce various shades of yellow gold or with nickel, copper, and zincto produce white gold. The color of these gold alloys goes from yellow to whiteas the proportion of silver in them increases. Alloys of gold with silver orcopper are used to make Gold coins and gold ware and alloys with platinumor palladium are also used in jewelry. The content of gold alloys is expressedin karats. 14-karat gold alloy is 58.5 percent gold and 24-karat gold is pure.Rose gold (or red gold) is alloyed with copper to give its hue.Gold-Filled:Base metal which has had a thick layer of gold ( at least 10k and 1/20th of thetotal weight of the piece) bonded to its surface. More durable than gold-plated.With moderate to heavy use, gold-filled and gold-plated jewelry will eventuallylose their coating, leaving the base metal exposed.Gold-Plated:Base metal which has been bonded with a thin layer of gold (less than 1/20thof the total weight of the piece). Not as durable as alloyed gold or gold-fill.With moderate to heavy use gold-filled and gold-plated jewelry will eventuallylose their coating, leaving the base metal exposed.

Gold Washed:Products that have an extremely thin layer of gold applied by either dipping orburnishing the metal, but not plated. This will wear away more quickly thanpieces that are gold plated, gold-filled, or gold electroplated.Grading:Valuing a diamond using master stones.Granulation:The process of decorating a metal surface with tiny grains of metalGraver Tool:A tool similar to a chisel used for engraving metal

Green gold:Gold which contains a high proportion of silver


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Grey gold:Gold which contains a high proportion of ironGrisaille:A form of enamel painted in monochromatic colorsGuilloch enamel:A form of enamel work acheived by working the metal on an engine turnedlathe to form a pattern and then enameling over the patternGypsy setting:A setting in which the stone is sunk into the surrounding metal leaving the topof the stone almost level with the top of the metal surfaceHHallmark:

A mark stamped on Jewelry throughout much of the world to attest to the

purity of the metal after assay. European hallmarks are legally required anddate back to the early Middle Ages; an early form of consumer protectionagainst fraud. Marks are not officially required in the US but are carried bycustom and practice. Marks may indicate the purity of the metal, the maker,the country of manufacture, and/or the date that the piece was assayed orhad its design registered.Hardness:The resistance of a substance to being scratched. Tests prove that diamondis approximately five to fifteen times as hard as corundum, the next hardestmineral. The variation stems not only from the differences obtained fromdifferent hardness-testing methods, but also from the fact that various

directions on a given stone surface show considerable variation in resistanceto abrasion. The hardest direction in a diamond is parallel to the faces of theoctahedron.Head:Portion of a jewelry item that holds the stone.Hematite:Iron ore consisting of ferric oxide in crystalline form; hematite is a silvery,shiny, opaque stone that becomes a red powder when ground down.Horn:A substance often used as a substitute for tortoiseshell which is from cow

hornsIImperfection:

General term used to refer to internal or external characteristics of agemstone (i.e., inclusion, fracture, etc)Inclusion:Visible internal flaws in a gemstone, including fractures, crystallingabnormalities, and foreign objects.Ingot:A precious metal formed into a bar or brick by pouring molten metal into amold


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Inlaid:Past tense of InlayInlay:A decorative technique in which part of the surface of a piece of jewelry,furniture, or ceramic is cut away and a stone, mother of pearl, or some other

substance is embedded into the hollowed-out area so that it is level with thesurface of the piece.Intaglio:A design carved down into a gemstone, unlike a cameo in which the design israised from it's background, in relief. This technique was often used for seals,which made an impression in wax used to seal a letter or authenticate adocument. It is also common on watch fobs, since the watch fob was originallya good place to carry a seal. Once seals fell out of use, the intaglio tended toface out to the viewer rather than down as on a seal. Some of the mostcommonly found Victorian intaglios are carved in Carnelian, an orange-brown

variety of quartz.Invisible Setting:Invisible setting is a style in which rows of square princess cut diamonds orother gemstones rest perfectly flush against one another within a metal borderor frame with no metal separating them.Iridescent:A display of lustrous rainbow-like colors. The colors seen in an oil slick ormother of pearl are good examples of iridescenceIridium:A metal and member of the platinum family, it is often alloyed with platinum toimprove workability, thus you will find pieces marked something like "90%Plat. 10% Irrid" to indicate that the alloy is 90 % platinum and 10% iridium.Irradiation:Treatment performed on gemstones and even pearls to enhance color.Ivory:A hard, smooth, yellowish-white substance made from the tusks of elephantsand walruses.JJabot pin:

A jeweled tie pin popular in the 1920s and 1930sJade:An opaque, semiprecious gemstone which is usually found in shades ofgreen, but can be also be found in lavender and rose shades.Jadeite:A hard, translucent variety of jade which is rarer than the other varieties ofnephrite and comes in a variety of colors such as orange, pink, yellow, brown,blue, violet, and black.Jasper:Jasper is an opaque, impure, polycrystalline variety of quartz that may be red,yellow, or brown. It breaks with a smooth surface and can be highly polishedlike marble. Varieties of jasper include fancy jasper, poppy jasper, redjasper,and striped or banded Jasper. Jasper was once believed to have


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curative powers.Jet:(also called black amber) A dense, black variety of lignite (fossilized coal)that can be highly polished and is often made into mourning jewelry, inlay,toys, buttons, etc.

Jump Ring:A small oval or round wire ring used to link charms or pendants onto a chain.It is not usually soldered shut.KKarat:

Unit of fineness for gold equal to 1 part of pure gold in an alloy. Pure gold isdesignated 24K and is much too soft to be used in jewelry except asdecoration. If your Jewelry is 14K gold, the standard fineness in the U.S., itmeans that it is 14 parts gold and 10 parts base metal. Rings (particularly

mens rings) are often 10K gold due to its higher durability. The purest form ofgold used in jewelry is 18K. It was often used in ancient cultures as a symbolof wealth and royalty. Not to be confused with carat.LLapidary:

Cutting, shaping, polishing and creating jewelry from precious and semi-precious stones.Laser drilling:Technique used to enhance a stone's clarity by allowing for the introduction of

bleaching agents or other enhancing agents.Lavaliere:A chain from which an ornament or gemstone hangs in the centerLeakage:Light leaving, or escaping, through the facets of fashioned gemstone.Liquid silver:The term given to strands of small silver beads which were made by carefullyslicing tubes of sterling silver into pieces and stringing them together.Living Jewelry:Jewelry materials derived from living organisms: pearl, cultured pearl, fresh-

water pearl; mother of pearl; coral.Locket:A hinged case usually in the shape of an oval or heart which can be openedor closed and usually contains a photograph or memento.Lost Wax Process or Casting:Casting process where a carved or cast wax original is encased in clay orother investment; the wax is melted under temperature and the resulting voidsare filled with molten metal. Used since early Egyptian times for casting finemetals where the highest level of detail was required.Loupe:Small magnifying glass, often held in the eye socket, used for analyzinggemstones.


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Lucite:Popular in the 1940's for ladies purses and jewelry, lucite is a clear, strongplastic that can be molded and carved.Luster:The appearance of a material's surface, as determined by the quantity and

quality of light reflected.MMabe:

A Japanese term for cultured pearls which are cultured against the shell sothat only half a pearl is formed resembling a half-sphere.Maltese Cross:Enamel named for the Knights of Malta, a group of knights who bore thissymbol during the Crusades. A Maltese cross has four broad arms of equallength, sometimes having a V-shaped notch cut out of the ends.Marcasite:An iron ore material, pyrite, that is facetted into rose cuts and set into silver orpewter jewelryMarquis Cut:Faceted, elongated oval stone which tapers to a point at both endsMaster stones:A set of diamonds used to grade the color of other diamonds.Matte:With jewelry which has a matte finish, the designer uses either a chemicalprocess or an abrasive material to scratch the top layers of the piece, creating

a dull and non-reflective surface. Also referred to as having a brushed or satinfinishMlange:Term for mixed diamond sizes weighing more than caratMle:Classification used in the sorting of diamonds weighing less than caratMemento Mori:Jewel that is a reminder of deathMemorial jewel:Jewel that is made in memory of a loved one, often containing hair from that

person and frequently decorated with enamelMicro Mosaic:Mosaic of very small colored glass pieces (tessarae) inlaid in glass orhardstoneMilanese Chain:Chain consisting of interwoven rows of small links forming a meshMilgrain:Tiny beads of metal used to decorate bands of metalMillefiori:Means "thousand flowers" in Italian. A method of creating glass or clay beads

with intricate patterns using canes.Minaudire:


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The name for a womans small hard vanity case or handbag, usually metal orwood, which is held in the handMine cut:Differs from the modern brilliant cut only in its girdle shape, which is squareinstead of round; also has a higher crown, smaller table, deeper pavilion, and

larger culet, but the number and arrangement of the facets are the same. It islumpier than the form accepted today.Mississippi River Pearls:Irregularly shaped pearls, usually elongated.Mizpah Ring:A broad gold ring engraved with the word MIZPAH, meaning I will watch overthee, popular during the Victorian periodMoonstone:A transparent, slightly iridescent, milky white variety of feldspar with white orlight blue opalescent spots. Moonstone is considered a good luck stone,

especially for lovers.Mosaic:A design created by pressing pieces of stone glass or ceramic tiles calledtessera in mortar.Mother-of-pearl:The opalescent material on the inside of mollusk shells like oysters andmussels. This material can be scraped and sliced thin and used as inlay on avariety of jewelry, furniture, etc.Mount:To place or fix a stone in the setting. See Mounting.

Mounting:A piece of metal that holds a gem in PlaceMourning Jewelry:Jewelry worn to commemorate the death of a loved one, usually in the form ofa ring, brooch, or necklace. Widely worn During the Victorian era when thedeath of Prince Albert plunged Queen Victoria into a lifetime of mourningNNacre:

The shiny, iridescent substance secreted by a mollusk as a response to an

irritant like a piece of sand. Over time, layers of nacre build up to become apearl.Navette:An oval stone which is pointed at both ends.Negligee:A long necklace that usually terminates in irregular length with tassels ordropsNickel silver:A white metal mixture of copper, zinc, and nickel which contains no silver.Niello:

An inlay technique in which the grooves made in silver or gold are made blackin color by the use of a composition of metal sulfides


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OOiling:

Temporary treatment used to enhance the color of a gemstone.

Old-European Cut:A term applied to the earliest form of a circular, girdled round stone or brilliant.It is characterized by a very small table, heavy crown, and usually greatoverall depth. Improperly referred to as an old-mine cut.Old-mine Cut:An early form of Brilliant cut with a nearly square girdle outline. Incorrectlyapplied to a somewhat more modern style of brilliant cut that also has a muchhigher crown and smaller table than the modern brilliant cut, but whose girdleoutline is circular or approximately circular; a style of cutting that is moreproperly called a lumpy stone or an old-European cut.Onyx:A semi precious stone that is black or white in color; lends itself to flat jewelrycreation such as cameos since it has layered structure. Onyx belongs to thechalcedony family of minerals, which are somewhat porous stones.Opal:Opals are known for their iridescent luminous qualities and are adored bymany. Opals contain a large amount of water and need to be cared forproperly since experts warn of potential cracking. This semi precious stonecontains a wide-ranging mixture of colors that produce a fire-like quality.Opalescent:A term used to describe a surface with a lustrous, cloudy, rainbow-like colors

like one might see in an oil slick or mother of pearl.Opaque:Not transparent or translucent. An opaque stone will not allow any light topass through it.Open Back Setting:Setting in which the back of the stone can be seenOre:A metal-bearing mineral from which metal can be profitably mined orextracted.Orient:

The characteristic sheen of fine natural and cultured pearlsOriental Pearl:A pearl that has formed naturally with no human intervention.Oval Cut:Faceted, elongated stone; round at both endsOxidation:A chemical process in which metal such as silver is blackened or tarnishes asa reaction to sulfur and oxygen.Oxide:A compound containing one oxygen atom per molecule

Oxidize:The act of combining with oxygen molecules to make an oxide. Oxidized


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metal is rusted.Oxygen:A nonmetallic element that is normally a colorless, odorless, tasteless gas.Oxygen combines with many other elements easily. These compounds arecalled oxides and make up about half the solid matter on Earth, making

oxygen the most abundant element present in the Earth's crust.PPaillons:

Small pieces of metallic foil which are placed underneath enamel work toprovide a glow, popular with a number of Arts and Crafts movement jewelersPalladium:A charcoal-gray form of Platinum found in Russia, South Africa, and NorthAmerica. Palladium has many of the same properties as platinum, such as itsresistance to corrosion and versatile applications in Jewelry designs.Pampilles:A cascade of pendant stones; popular in Georgian jewelry and meant to looklike rain dropsParure:A suite of matching jewelry usually four or more pieces, a necklace, bracelets,earrings and belt or broochPassamenterie:Jewelry inspired by furniture trimmings such as cordingPaste:In the context of jewelry, paste is a glass-based substance used to simulate

gemstones. It has become a slang term for all fake gemstones; paste stonesare lead crystals with a high lead content; paste is more brilliant than glassrhinestones.Patina:Discoloration that forms on metals such as silver and bronze but oftenplanned for in the artists design, can also be introduced artificially by use ofchemicalsPav:From the French term for Pavement or Cobblestone, a large field of smallstones set very close together to create wall-to-wall paved object. The more

stones in the field, the more faceted surfaces there are creating a morereflective piece.Pavilion:The portion of a gemstone located below the girdle.Pearl:Pearls are organic gems grown within oysters and other mollusks which aremost valued and sought after when they are perfectly round and are lustrous.Pearls form as a result of an irritant or foreign body that has made its way intothe oyster or mollusk shell. The living oyster or mollusk's natural reaction is tosecrete nacre (the luminous substance that forms around the irritant). Thisprocess can take between five to eight years, usually the entire life of an

oyster or mollusk. With the marvels of science, this process has beenreproduced using human intervention to create cultured pearls. Natural Pearls


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are made with no human intervention.Pendaloque:A type of pear shaped or tear drop gemstone faceted as a brilliant cut andsuspended from a smaller stone which is usually separated by a bow or othermotif

Pewter:Pewter items are described and marked as such if they contain at least 90%tin. Also, a somewhat dull silver-colored alloy of tin, antimony, and copper.Pietra Dura:Mosaic of semi-precious stones set into a floral pattern of black marble oronyx, also known as a hardstone mosaicPinchbeck:A gold simulant, invented circa 1720 by Christopher Pinchbeck, which iscomprised of a mixture of copper and zincPit:Indentation on the surface of a diamond or gemstone.Piqu:Tortoiseshell or horn which is inlaid with mother-of-pearl, silver or goldPlanishing:A hammering process done to give a smoother finish to a piece of metalPlatinum:Platinum is more difficult and consequently more expensive to refine.Platinum is almost double the weight of 14k gold. Platinum is the mostprecious of white metals. Both platinum and silver have the appearance ofwhite metal but platinum is extremely durable and resists tarnishing. Platinum

will never wear outPlique-a-jour A form of cloisonn in which the enamel in thecells has no backing, producing a translucent effect. Thistechnique was used to good effect by Rene' Lalique andothers during the Art Nouveau period to depict dragonflywings and other translucent objects.Plot:Diagram of a gemstone's clarity characteristics. Generally performed duringan appraisal using magnification.Point:One-one hundredth (0.01) of a carat.Pomander:A pendant scent casePosy Ring:A ring engraved with a versePot Metal:Any alloys which do not have gold, silver, or platinum as a component. Alsocalled white metalPrecious metal:Metals valued for their color, malleability, and rarity. There are only three

precious metals: gold, silver, and PlatinumPrincess Cut:


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A highly faceted square cut stone similar to a brilliant cut but adapted to asquare shape to increase its BrillianceProng setting:A gemstone held in place by small finger-like wires attached to the bezelwhich bend over the edges of the stone.

Proportion:Mathematical representation of a gemstone's overall symmetry.QQuartz:

The family name for naturally occurring crystals composed of silica or silicondioxide. The most common variety is colorless and transparent. This is oftenreferred to as clear quartz, rock crystal, or simply quartz.R

Radiant Cut:A rectangular gemstone combining the shape of an emerald cut and thesparkle of a brilliant cut.Refraction:The action of changing the direction of a light wave so the light enters theobject in one direction and leaves it in another.Regard:Meaning jewelry where the first letter of each type of a stone spells out aword. In this case, a ring or brooch set with Ruby, Emerald, Garnet, Amethyst,Ruby, and Diamond so that the first letter of each gemstone spelled out R-E-G-A-R-D. Popular In the Victorian era.Relief:A kind of raised decoration that protrudes above the surface like a cameo.Repouss:A raised high relief design on the front of a metal object made by hammering,embossing or punching the reverse side of the metal to form the design fromthe back side outRhinestone:A faceted stone made of glass.Rhodium:A metal that is a member of the platinum family of metals, but is liquid in itsraw, natural state; not solid like platinum. Rhodium can be applied to basemetals, gold, sterling silver, or some other alloy to give it a shiny white surfacelike platinum.Ring Sizes:One of the few aspects of the jewelry industry that is standardized is ring size,though many national systems are in use. The US uses a numeric system.The UK has an alphabetic system. The European system is numeric,representing the interior circumference in millimeters.Riveting:A Method of joining two objects together by making hole in each piece thenpassing a screw composed of the same metal as the piece through the holes


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to join the parts. This Process was used in jewelry instead of soldering when itwas not advisable to use heat or when one part was intended to swivel.Rivire:Choker type necklace that is a continuous line of gemstones usually ofgraduated or equal size stones

Rolled Gold:Early 19th century type of goldplatingRock Crystal:see Quartz.Rondelle:A pierced piece of metal or gemstone strung between the beads in a necklaceRose Cut:A style of stone cutting that produces a gem with a flat, multifaceted base andsomewhat dome-shaped top that is covered with a varied number of triangularfacets and terminates in a point. This style of cut has been in use since the

16th century. It is an early style of cutting that is thought to have originated inIndia and to have been brought to Europe by the Venetians. The rose cut isnow used primarily on small diamonds.Rose finish:Jewelry finished so that it has the look of rose gold, but no actual goldcontent.Rose gold:An alloy of gold mixed with copper which gives it red tint.Rose Quartz:A translucent, milky-pink variety of quartz

Round Cut:The most common style of cutting for both diamonds and colored stones. SeeBrilliant CutRuby:One of the four precious gemstones along with diamonds, emeralds, andsapphires. Ruby is a member of the corundum family whose color comes fromchromium oxide in the stone. Although corundum can come in many colors,rubies are by definition red. Rubies have been synthesized and can only bedistinguished from natural rubies by trained gemologists. Rubies areextremely hard, second only to diamonds. Fine rubies of good color can bemore valuable than diamonds. For centuries, rubies have symbolized beauty,charity, love, passion, power, and royalty. In some countries, engagementrings are set with rubies instead of diamonds. The ruby is the birthstone forJuly.SSafety Catch:

One of several means of securing a brooch to a garment. Before the inventionof safety catches, the most common means of securing a brooch was simpleC catch with no locking mechanism. A safety catch has a swiveling head thatlocks the tip of the pin stem into the C catch.Sand Casting:For hundreds of years, sand casting was the most popular of all casting


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methods. It still plays an important role in the production of large metal forms(typically iron, but also bronze, brass, and aluminum). Tempered sand ispacked onto wood or metal pattern halves, removed from the pattern, andmetal is poured into the resultant cavities. Molds are broken to removecastings

Sapphire:One of the four precious gemstones; the other three being diamonds, rubies,and emeralds. Sapphire is a member of the corundum family which come in avariety of colors from white to orange to green to pink. If a corundumgemstone is red, it is a ruby, but any other colors are properly referred to assapphires. Sapphires have been synthesized. Blue sapphire is the birthstonefor September.Sardonic:A variety of onyx consisting of alternating layers of chard and whitechalcedony.

Satin finish:A series of tiny parallel lines scratched onto a surface with a wire brush or apolishing tool to produce texture. Satin finish is also called brushed or mattefinishSautoir:An extremely long neck chain, which falls below the waistline and terminateswith a tassel or pendant. Popular in the early 20th centuryScarab:Known as the sacred beetle in ancient Egypt, a very fine gold original scarabpendant is in the collection of the Brooklyn Museum of Art. Scarabs weresymbols of rebirth and rejuvenation and were popular as amulets. Scarabs

were ancient Egyptian fertility symbols based upon a common dung beetlefound in Egypt. It was often carried as an amulet cast from gold or carvedfrom semiprecious stones. The flat underside could have a design carved intoit that could be used as a signet.Scatter Pin:A small pin usually featuring flowers birds and insects that is intended to beworn in a group with many other scatter pins.Scepter:Symbol of spiritual and worldly power used as part of a royal insignia. Ascepter used in a ceremony is usually highly decorated with precious metals

and gemstones. The topping of a scepter varied in different countries and indifferent periods.Screw:A back type of earring attachment for non-pierced ears where the earring istightened against the earlobe by means of a screw with a flat round end.Seal:Engraved (intaglio) of stone or metal used to create an impression on asubstance such as wax or claySeed bead:Mass produced tiny glass or plastic beads made by slicing tubes into tiny

evenly spaced pieces. This makes them oblong in Shape rather than roundand flat on the ends. Seed beads can be strung together to make a necklace


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or bracelet, but are commonly used as spacers for larger beads. They canalso be strung on a loom to make beaded bands and belts and curtains.Seed Pearl:A very small pearl popular during the Victorian period as accents set into goldjewelry or woven into long fringed necklaces; still very popular today, often

incorporated into larger designs.Semi-precious stones:A stone that is less rare and less expensive than precious stones but is stillvalued for its beauty.Setting:Setting refers to the mechanism by which a stone is held by precious metalinto a mounting. Common settings include bezel, pave, channel, and prong.Setting can also refer to the part of jewelry in which one or more stones areset.Svign:

A bodice ornament set with gemstones in a bowknot shapeShagreen:The skin of a ray or shark from the waters around China, usually stainedgreen or another colorShank:The part of ring that encircles the finger; does not include the setting.Shoulder:The part of ring between the shank and the center of the settingSignet:A private seal once impressed into wax to authenticate a document was often

formed into a finger ring with the seal forming the bezel of the ring. Knownsince Egyptian times where the seal would be on the reverse of a scarab. Theseal would usually be in reverse so the impression in the wax would be rightSilverTone:Silver plated or coated, not sterling silver.Single-cut Diamonds:Genuine diamonds commonly used in watch cases that contain only 1 facetsSimulated stones:Any natural or synthetic substance which is meant to resemble a gemstone. Acubic zirconium, for example, is a simulated diamond.

Slide:A jeweled fastener, which slides onto a chain or fabric ribbonSmoky quartz:A variety of quartz that ranges in color from cloudy brown to a dark root beershade with a smoky appearanceSmoky Topaz:see QuartzSnake chain:Unlike most chains, which are a series of linked rings, a snake chain is madeup of round, wavy, metal rings joined side by side forming a flexible tube witha smooth scaly texture like snake skin.Soldering:


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A technique used in making and repairing jewelry whereby two pieces ofmetal are joined by applying molten metal which has a lower melting pointthan the two metals being joined.Solitaire:Ring containing a single diamond or gemstone.

Split Ring:Small base metal finding resembling a key-ring.Spring Ring:A very common kind of clasp used for joining two ends of a necklace.Square cut:A style of gem cutting resembling the Emerald cut.Stabilized Turquoise:Turquoise is very porous by nature, which allows it to absorb any pollutantsthat it comes in contact with, including oils from the skin. Stabilized turquoisehas been treated by various methods to reduce the porosity, thus making it

less changeable over time.Stamping:Using a punch or die to cut or emboss metal with a markStep cut:See Emerald CutSterling Silver:A silver alloy made up of at least 92.5% pure silver. This is the standardfineness for silver.Stomacher:A very large bodice ornament, usually triangular, filling the area between the

neckline and the waistline, also known as a corsage ornamentStrap Necklace:A mesh chain with pendants suspended by short, fine chain resembling afringe; an Archaeological Revival style during the Victorian periodStrapwork:Decorative pattern in the form of interlaced and crossed straight bandsresembling strapsSwag:A motif used on a piece of jewelry of festoons of foliage, fruit and flowersSymmetry:

Uniformity of a gemstone's cut, including the shape and placement of facets.Synthetic Gemstones:Produced in laboratory rather than found in nature. Synthetic gemstones arenot fake, since they have exactly the same chemical characteristics as thenatural stone, but they are usually flawless and much cheaper than the realthing. The most common synthetic gems are emeralds, rubies, sapphires, andopals.TTable:

The large facet that caps the crown of a faceted gemstone. In the standardround brilliant, it is octagonal in shape and is bounded by eight star facets; the


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top facet.Table-cut:See Emerald Cut.Table percentage:Diameter of a gemstone divided by the size of the table.Tanzanite:Named after its country of origin Tanzania, where it was first discovered andis still the only place where it can be found. Tanzanite is popular for itsbrilliance and is known for its varying shades of violet from deep rich purple toLilac. The gem can be heated to achieve the most sought after shade; vibrantblue-violet. Good quality tanzanite is usually faceted, but the rare pieces thathave no flaws are simply made into cabochons.Tapered baguette:A small gemstone cut in a trapezoid shape with one end narrower than theopposite end.

Tarnish:A dulled luster or finish caused by a thin deposit of dirt which discolors thesurface of metal and is easily removed. Also, a reaction between metals andother chemicals which discolors the surface; particularly silver, which reactswith sulfur. The silver sulfide can be removed with a proprietary cleaningproduct and gentle abrasion.Tennis bracelet:A bracelet made up of individually set gemstones of uniform size and colorlinked together like chain so it is somewhat flexibleTerminal:

The decorated ends of a necklace or bangle usually with stylized heads of aram, lion, dragon, etc.Tiara:A head ornament worn in the crown positionTin:A malleable, silvery, metallic element which is not easily oxidized in the airand so is used chiefly to coat iron to protect it from rusting. It is primarilyextracted from the ore, cassiterite, where it is found as an oxide. Tin ismalleable at ordinary temperatures, but brittle when heated and is part ofnumerous alloys. It is most commonly used in the form of tin foil with mercuryto form the reflective surface of mirrors.

Toggle clasp:A means of fastening two ends of a chain together; consisting of a ring on oneend and a short bar on the other. The bar is slid through the ring and sitsacross it so it does not slide or pull.Tolkowsky, Marcel:Mathematician that defined the proportions necessary for maximum brilliancefrom a round diamond brilliant cutTopaz:A borosilicate of aluminum that occurs in rhomboidal crystals and is used as agemstone. Although it is a hard stone, topaz can be susceptible to breaking. It

may be found in many colors, such as blue, brown, clear, green, orange, pink,red, yellow, or white. The most valuable topaz is Imperial Topaz with golden-


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yellow to orange color. The most popular color is an enhanced blue treatedwith heat to develop it into a rich blue color which resembles aquamarine, butis more adorable. Yellow quartz is sometimes called topaz but is consideredfalse topaz. True topaz is said to be the symbol of love and affection or to actas a protector by making the wearer invisible in emergencies. Topaz is the

birthstone for November.Torsade:Twisted strands of pearls ending in a claspTortoise Shell:A mottled, nutty brown shell material with a spotted, striped, or sometimeseven speckled pattern. Popular for jewelry and hair combs, tortoise shell wasbanned and is no longer used for these items. There are very close plasticimitations of tortoiseshell. One technique to differentiate tortoise from itsimitators is to touch the surface with a hot pinpoint. A Tortoise will give off asmell like burning hair while plastic will emit an acrid, chemical odor.

Translucent:Partially transparent. A translucent stone will allow some light through but itwill still be too cloudy to see objects through clearlyTrapeze Cut:A gemstone cut into an equilateral triangle with a flat topTremblant:Jewelry with a trembling effect when the wearer moved, produced byelements set upon stiff wires that moveTrillion Cut:Trillion cut is a triangular shaped diamond with abbreviated corners andtypically varying facets.Tubogas:Sometimes referred to as gas pipe, a flexible tubular chainTurquoise:Turquoise is a semi-precious stone and is known for its true Robin's egg Blue.Although turquoise is very opaque, it is also porous and is predominantlyfound in desert regions worldwide. It was originally discovered in Turkey andgreen-hued Turquoise can be found in North America. This unique stone isusually cut into cabochons or domes to enhance the natural beauty of thegem.Tutti Frutti:Jewelry set with multi colored gems carved in shapes of leaves, flowers andberries and often in a basket designUVWXYZUltrasonic:

Cleaning device for jewelry that removes dirt through the use of ultrasonicwaves. Note: Certain gemstones may be damaged by an ultrasonic cleaner.Vermeil:Silver with gold plating.Victorian:The designation given to the period from approximately 1837 when Victoriabecame Queen of England until 1901 when she died. This long period is


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divided into early (approx. 1840-1860), mid (approx. 1860 - 1880) and late(approx. 1880-1900) since it covers a wide span of time, and a number ofdistinctive design trends. This period was preceded by the Georgian period,and succeeded by the Edwardian period after Victoria died in 1901, and herson Edward became king

White gold:An alloy made of gold mixed with nickel sometimes also containing palladiumor zincWhite Metal:Any combination of alloys of non precious metals such as lead and tin. Alsocalled Pot Metal.Zinc:An abundant, lustrous, bluish-white metallic element of the magnesium-cadmium group. Zinc is brittle at room temperature, but malleable whenheated. It is used to form a wide variety of alloys including brass, bronze,

various solders, and nickel silver. Because Zinc is not easily oxidized in moistair it is used for coating galvanized iron and other metals; for electric fuses;anodes; meter cases; in roofing gutters; and is also largely consumed inelectric batteries.Zircon:Common mineral occurring in small crystals which is heated, cut, andpolished to form a brilliant blue-white gem; used as a refractory when opaqueand as a gemstone when transparent. They are not man made stones likecubic zirconium are. Although they are frequently color-treated, zircons occurnaturally in clear, yellow, orange, brown, and red. They are chief source ofzirconium.

jewelry glossary

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