italian exports seen rising retro wave · moschino’s men’s collection will show in london for...

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PLUS Moschino’s men’s collection will show in London for the first time this season. Page MW4 Seth a Mess “Neighbors” star Seth Rogen gets little right with his style choices. At least there’s plenty of room for improvement. Page MW4 MAN OF THE WEEK May 15, 2014 Retro Wave Throwback patterns and vintage-inspired silhouettes are flooding the swimwear market for the resort season. Not specifically targeted to the performance market, these leisure suits are good for the sun and sand and many can double as après-beach attire as well. For more on the swimwear market, see pages MW2 and MW3. Sundek’s polyester swim trunks. Super sunglasses; Luis Morais bracelet; Caputo & Co. bracelet. PHOTO BY RENIE SALIBA; MODEL: EMILIO FLORES AT SOUL ARTIST MANAGEMENT; STYLED BY ALEX BADIA; SHOT ON LOCATION AT GANSEVOORT MEATPACKING NYC by ALESSANDRA TURRA MILAN — Pitti Uomo is upping the ante to affirm its leading role on the international men’s wear scene. During a press conference here Wednesday, trade organizer Pitti Immagine unveiled the agenda of the 86th edition of the international men’s wear trade show, which will run in Florence June 17 to 20. This season, the busy calendar of shows, presentations and parties will include Firenze Hometown of Fashion, a full pro- gram of events to be held in the Tuscan city in celebration of the 60th anniversary of the Florentine Center for Italian Fashion. Marking both the importance of Florence as an international fashion hub — especially for its high-end Made in Italy production — and the relevant role played by the fash- ion industry in the country’s economy, the Italian government allocated 2 million euros, or $2.7 million at current exchange, to sup- port Firenze Hometown of Fashion. This will begin on June 16 with a live con- cert by Italian tenor Andrea Bocelli at the renovated Opera di Firenze and with a spe- cial event at the Ponte Vecchio, which will show the lights donated to the city by Stefano Ricci, fashion entrepreneur and president of the Florentine Center for Italian Fashion. Along with a photo retrospective organized by Vogue Italia and a special exhibition by Italian artist Francesco Vezzoli, Firenze Hometown of Fashion will also include a series of initiatives organized by four presti- gious Florentine houses: Gucci, Emilio Pucci, Salvatore Ferragamo and Ermanno Scervino. Formerly part of the project, Roberto Cavalli decided not to take part in the initiative. In particular, Gucci will project spe- cial lights on the facade of its museum on Piazza della Signoria and will celebrate the opening of the first flagship of recently ac- quired luxury tableware and ceramics firm Richard Ginori; Ferragamo will open its new “Equilibrium” exhibition at the Salvatore Ferragamo museum, and Ermanno Scervino will organize a night dedicated to the label’s signature white color at the Forte Belvedere. Emilio Pucci hasn’t disclosed the details of its event yet because it’s waiting for approv- als from the Superintendence to the historic and architectural patrimony. This initiative will help generate even more buzz around Pitti Uomo, which will host 1,030 exhibitors and about 30,000 visi- tors, including more than 18,100 buyers. “After many years, positive signals are coming from both the international and European markets. The Italian fashion companies are exporting more,” said Pitti Immagine president Gateano Marzotto, who cited research conducted by Sistema Moda Italia forecasting that this year Italian brands will increase their exports and PREPPING FOR PITTI {Continued on page MW4} Florence Takes Center Stage Italian exports seen rising 8 percent this year.

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Page 1: Italian exports seen rising Retro Wave · Moschino’s men’s collection will show in London for the first time this season. Page MW4 Seth a Mess “Neighbors” star Seth Rogen

PLUSMoschino’s men’s

collection will show in London for the first time

this season. Page MW4

Seth a Mess“Neighbors” star Seth Rogen gets little right with his style choices. At least there’s plenty of room for improvement. Page MW4

MAN OF THE WEEK

May 15, 2014

Retro WaveThrowback patterns and vintage-inspired

silhouettes are flooding the swimwear market for the resort season.

Not specifically targeted to the performance market, these leisure

suits are good for the sun and sand and many can double as

après-beach attire as well. For more on the swimwear market,

see pages MW2 and MW3.

Sundek’s polyester swim trunks. Super sunglasses; Luis Morais bracelet; Caputo & Co. bracelet.

PHOT

O BY

REN

IE S

ALIB

A; M

ODEL

: EM

ILIO

FLO

RES

AT S

OUL

ARTI

ST M

ANAG

EMEN

T; ST

YLED

BY

ALEX

BAD

IA; S

HOT

ON LO

CATI

ON A

T GA

NSEV

OORT

MEA

TPAC

KING

NYC

by ALESSANDRA TURRA

MILAN — Pitti Uomo is upping the ante to affirm its leading role on the international men’s wear scene.

During a press conference here Wednesday, trade organizer Pitti Immagine unveiled the agenda of the 86th edition of the international men’s wear trade show, which will run in Florence June 17 to 20.

This season, the busy calendar of shows, presentations and parties will include Firenze Hometown of Fashion, a full pro-gram of events to be held in the Tuscan city in celebration of the 60th anniversary of the Florentine Center for Italian Fashion.

Marking both the importance of Florence as an international fashion hub — especially for its high-end Made in Italy production — and the relevant role played by the fash-ion industry in the country’s economy, the Italian government allocated 2 million euros, or $2.7 million at current exchange, to sup-port Firenze Hometown of Fashion.

This will begin on June 16 with a live con-cert by Italian tenor Andrea Bocelli at the renovated Opera di Firenze and with a spe-cial event at the Ponte Vecchio, which will show the lights donated to the city by Stefano Ricci, fashion entrepreneur and president of the Florentine Center for Italian Fashion. Along with a photo retrospective organized by Vogue Italia and a special exhibition by Italian artist Francesco Vezzoli, Firenze Hometown of Fashion will also include a series of initiatives organized by four presti-gious Florentine houses: Gucci, Emilio Pucci, Salvatore Ferragamo and Ermanno Scervino. Formerly part of the project, Roberto Cavalli decided not to take part in the initiative.

In particular, Gucci will project spe-cial lights on the facade of its museum on Piazza della Signoria and will celebrate the opening of the first flagship of recently ac-quired luxury tableware and ceramics firm Richard Ginori; Ferragamo will open its new “Equilibrium” exhibition at the Salvatore Ferragamo museum, and Ermanno Scervino will organize a night dedicated to the label’s signature white color at the Forte Belvedere. Emilio Pucci hasn’t disclosed the details of its event yet because it’s waiting for approv-als from the Superintendence to the historic and architectural patrimony.

This initiative will help generate even more buzz around Pitti Uomo, which will host 1,030 exhibitors and about 30,000 visi-tors, including more than 18,100 buyers.

“After many years, positive signals are coming from both the international and European markets. The Italian fashion companies are exporting more,” said Pitti Immagine president Gateano Marzotto, who cited research conducted by Sistema Moda Italia forecasting that this year Italian brands will increase their exports and

PREPPING FOR PITTI

{Continued on page MW4}

Florence Takes Center StageItalian exports seen rising 8 percent this year.

Page 2: Italian exports seen rising Retro Wave · Moschino’s men’s collection will show in London for the first time this season. Page MW4 Seth a Mess “Neighbors” star Seth Rogen

Men’s WeekWWD THURSDAY, MAY 15, 2014MW2

Swim P

PHOTOS BY RENIE SALIBA

Clockwise from left: ! Marc by Marc Jacobs’ polyester swim trunks. Super sunglasses; Luis Morais necklace; George Frost by Michael Bastian bracelet.! Etro’s nylon swim trunks. Caputo & Co. bracelet; Luis Morais bracelet.! Stüssy’s polyester swim trunks. Arizaga Men’s necklace.

From left: ! 2(x)ist’s polyester and spandex swim trunks. Ne! sunglasses; Scosha bracelet.! Robinson Les Bains’ nylon swim trunks. George Frost by Michael Bastian bracelet.! Parke & Ronen’s nylon swim trunks. Eli Halili necklace; Caputo & Co. bracelet; Luis Morais bracelets.

Clockwis! SaturdMorais n! Naïla’Luis Mor! Lightnsunglass

FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE

WWD.com/menswear-news.

Page 3: Italian exports seen rising Retro Wave · Moschino’s men’s collection will show in London for the first time this season. Page MW4 Seth a Mess “Neighbors” star Seth Rogen

Men’s Week WWD THURSDAY, MAY 15, 2014 MW3

The shorter boardshort is the

leading style of the resort season in a variety

of heritage surfing prints, including florals,

tie dyes and batik patterns.

— ALEX BADIA

Practice

MOD

ELS:

ALE

XAND

ER V

AN B

ALLA

ER A

T DN

A M

ODEL

S, E

MIL

IO F

LORE

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BY JE

NNIFE

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AREK

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FASH

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se from left: days Surf NYC’s nylon swim trunks. Luis

necklace; Caputo & Co. bracelet.s polyester swim trunks. Super sunglasses;

rais bracelet; Caputo & Co. bracelet.ning Bolt’s cotton swim trunks. Super ses.

Page 4: Italian exports seen rising Retro Wave · Moschino’s men’s collection will show in London for the first time this season. Page MW4 Seth a Mess “Neighbors” star Seth Rogen

Men’s WeekMW4 WWD THURSDAY, MAY 15, 2014

Man of THE WEEK

PHOT

O BY

GRE

GG D

EGUI

RE/W

IREI

MAG

E

SETH ROGEN: C-

The star of “Neighbors,” the number-one movie in America, is the quintessential “before” picture in a fashion makeover with his monochromatic light gray suit and ridiculous matching shoes.

The skinny tie with the polka dots feels dangerously close to a bridal moment.

Although the jacket fits him well enough, the ultrathin cotton fabric is not flattering. A summer wool blend would drape in a way that would elongate his torso.

by LUISA ZARGANI

MILAN — For the first time, Moschino’s men’s collection will show in London this season.

Scheduled for June 16, the show will be held at 6 p.m. at a location still to be deter-mined. This will also be the first men’s col-lection designed by creative director Jeremy Scott, who will also pres-ent around 15 pieces of Moschino’s women’s pre-collection on the runway.

A spokeswoman said Scott’s decision was “in-stinctive, for fun, and in-spirational” — terms he associates with London’s “vibe and international crowd.” Scott has person-al ties to the British capi-tal, as he has previously shown his namesake col-lection there. Moschino’s own Cheap & Chic brand also showed three times in the city.

This step does not rule out a return to Milan or a potential move to other fashion cities, noted the spokeswoman. “There are many possibilities for the fu-ture,” she said, underscoring that, on the other hand, the women’s collection is “well-rooted in Milan.” She also highlighted that there is “no polemic” with Milan and its fashion organization.

Scott’s women’s looks for Moschino, which made their debut in February, gar-nered praise from retailers and the press. Leveraging the label’s bounty of referenc-es and iconography, infused with his own quirky sense of style, Scott’s designs, his so-cial media activities, and his strong connec-

tion with pop culture — drawing the likes of Rihanna, Katy Perry and Miley Cyrus — re-turned the brand to the spotlight.

On Tuesday while discussing first-quar-ter results of Aeffe SpA, Moschino’s parent, Marcello Tassinari, managing director and chief financial officer, touted the arrival of Scott, who was tapped in October, and his

contribution to the brand, which “is showing a growth above average.” For fall, the collection rose “above the average 10 percent.”

He said the designer has added strength to the brand, which is target-ing a younger customer. “There are good prospects. If we were to consolidate the brand’s licenses, sales last year would have to-taled 220 million euros [$302.1 million at current exchange] and we could expect sales of 240 mil-lion euros [$330 million] in 2014,” he said.

The Missouri-born Scott is a graduate of the Pratt

Institute, introduced his own signature brand in Paris in 1997 and has worked with Christian Louboutin and Stephen Jones on accessories for his runway show. In 1996 and 1997, he won the Venus de la Mode Award for Best New Designer. In 1999, he was nominated for Best Young Designer by the Council of Fashion Designers of America. He has also worked with brands including Linda Farrow, Longchamp, Swatch and Smart, and is known for his ec-centric Adidas Originals creations, incor-porating teddy bears, cow prints and even leopard tails into his sneaker line.

Moschino to Show Men’s in London

domestic sales by 8 and 3 percent, respectively. According to Marzotto, European coun-

tries are registering the best sales of the past several years. “Consumers are more relaxed and many international investors are returning to invest in Italy,” he said.

“This season, Pitti Uomo will be a festi-val of creativity, contents and business, in a moment when it’s essential to work as a team,” said Pitti Immagine chief executive officer Raffaello Napoleone, illustrating the fair’s tight schedule. Once again this season, Pitti will overlap with Men’s Collections: London, but that is expected to change in January when Pitti’s dates are pushed back until after the London calendar is over.

Among the highlights of this edition, Pitti Uomo will host the launch of the new Z Zegna, which has just been restructured by the Ermenegildo Zegna Group, incorporat-ing the Zegna Sport brand into the Z Zegna line. The show will take place the evening of June 19 at the Stazione Leopolda.

Confirming its leading role in support-ing emerging brands, the Pitti Italics pro-gram will offer Au Jour Le Jour Garçon and Marcelo Burlon County of Milan the chance to make their debut at the trade show.

Au Jour Le Jour Garçon, a division of the fashion label launched by Diego Marquez and Mirko Fontana in 2010, will host a run-way show at former customs house Dogana on June 19, while Marcelo Burlon will pres-ent his Marcelo Burlon County of Milan label with a special performance and runway show inspired by extreme sports at the Parterre.

A number of special projects will also be launched at Pitti. Italian label Lardini will

unveil Nick Wooster Lardini, a capsule col-lection designed by men’s fashion guru Nick Wooster; G-Star Raw will present “Raw for the Ocean,” a special project created in col-laboration with Pharrell Williams; Italia Independent will unveil an exclusive col-lection of 60 customized sunglasses; Valstar will introduce Valstar — Starting Over, a capsule collection developed in collabora-tion with retailer United Arrows, and labels Tiger Jay and North Sails will showcase a new co-branding project.

In addition, Italian high-end e-tailer Thecorner.com will unveil “De’ (Millennials) Costumi,” a style guide realized by W’s editor in chief Stefano Tonchi, who, taking inspiration from Monsignor Della Casa’s “Galateo overo de’ Costumi,” analyzed today’s men’s fashion.

Increasing the focus on accessories, Pitti is joining forces with Milan-based eyewear trade show Mido to launch Pop-Eye, a spe-cial space dedicated to independent eye-wear companies. Pitti organizers also are reshaping the Attico hall. The space, which hosts the Classico Italia formal men’s wear area, will be redesigned by architect Patricia Urquiola to resemble a gentlemen’s club.

A series of events will take place around Florence to coincide with Pitti. Among them: La Perla will unveil its new men’s line with a show at the Dogana; Italian jewelry firm Damiani will celebrate its 90th anniversary with an exhibition at Palazzo Pitti’s Galleria d’Arte Moderna; Pinko will fete the opening of its new Pinko Hybrid Experience, while Del Toro Shoes founder Matthew Chevallard will throw a cocktail party on the terrace of the Hotel Continentale to present his new footwear collection.

{Continued from page MW1}

Jeremy Scott

PHOT

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MPA

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Romano Joins Boston TradersVETERAN MEN’S sweater designer Lenor Romano has joined DDK International as vice president of design. She will spearhead the sweater and knitwear design for the com-pany’s Boston Traders label and work closely with existing teams in Montreal and Hong Kong. She will be based in Manhattan.

Romano will continue to design her

namesake collections, Lenor Romano and le-nieR, which are carried in Nordstrom, Saks Fifth Avenue and other high-end retailers.

DDK manufactures branded and private-label men’s wear for retailers in North America and Europe. It also licenses Caribbean Joe and Utex in some categories. — JEAN E. PALMIERI

The light gray color totally washes him

out. A two-shade darker tone would

do wonders for him.

Jon Hamm wants his pants back.

The matching shoes are the last nail in the

fashion co!n and make him look like the Tin

Man from “The Wizard of Oz.” A white sneaker

would be better.

The mix of extra unforgiving fabric

and the subtle sheen only enhances the

sloppiness factor. A narrower silhouette

with a clean cu" would help alleviate the issue.

The well-groomed beard helps

strengthen his jawline and hides

his double chin.

He normally has luscious curls. He should lose the hair dryer and go for a more natural look to cover his wide forehead.

Italy Invests $2.7M to Aid Florence Fashion Industry