invest northern ireland | technical textiles seminar | 30 september 2016
TRANSCRIPT
Technical Textiles
Workshop
30 September 2016
Technical Textiiles
www.investni.com
Richard Pelan Invest Northern Ireland
Welcome
• Housekeeping
• Todays Agenda
Technical Textiles www.investni.com
Agenda
• 9.30 Welcome - Richard Pelan INI• 9:40 Innovate to Succeed – Andrew Millar, EEN• 10:00 UK Report – Brian McCarthy, KTN • 10:20 Fire Testing for Textiles – Michael Thompson,
Resonate Testing• 10:40 Bespoke Fabrics – Joan Johnston• 11:20 Hollings at MMU – Barbara Shepherd, MMU • 12:05 Close• 12:10 Networking Lunch• 13:00 Meeting of Collaborative Network
Technical Textiles www.investni.com
R&D support
• Innovate UK £15m Manufacturing and Materials call is opening again at the end of the year
• We aim to have an event to promote it in NI around 5th Dec
• Thanks to all who responded to the H2020 call
• Provide product definition support for full proposal preparation
• Provide impartial feedback on applications to other funders
Technical Textileswww.investni.com
Project Definition
• Up to £15k grant, up to 50% to apply for specific competition
• Guide - 5-10% of estimated main project costs
• Internal staff time
• Consultancy
• Travel & Accommodation
• Intellectual Property, preparation of collaborative agreements
Technical Textileswww.investni.com
What Next?
• We have another event planned for 25th Nov, here in INI
• Hope to have UKFT and UoM
• Developing textile presence on our website
• Best of times, Worst of times, but exciting times with shared challenges
Technical Textileswww.investni.com
Thank you
Richard Pelan
Innovation Adviser
Engineering, Construction and Transportation
T: 02890698632
M: 07780002603
Technical Textileswww.investni.com
•Enterprise Europe NetworkOverview Andrew Millar
The world’s largest
support Network for SMEs
with international
ambitions
3000 600+LOCATIONSLOCAL
EXPERTS
60+COUNTRIES
WORLDWIDE
Based locally
and connected to the world
• The Enterprise Europe Network in England N. Ireland & Wales
Funded jointly by the European Commission’s Executive Agency for SMEs (EASME) through COSME and H2020 and Innovate UK (previously the TSB).
• Hosted in N.Ireland by Invest NI
21 Consortia Partners in UK including Universities, Chambers of Commerce, Government and Local Government Agencies and private innovation companies
€75m project over 7 years to 2022 designed to stimulate innovation in SMEs
EEN in the UK
EEN in the UK
• Help businesses innovate through internationalcollaboration, be more entrepreneurial and competitive
• Help bring ideas to commercialisation
• Inspire internationalisation
• Help business access funding for R&D (H2020 and UK) and access to finance
• Innovation management advice & support
• Act as an agent to help the EU implement its SME and Business Strategies
Our key aims
How do we help?
We combine international business
expertise with local knowledge to take your
innovation into new markets.
A broad range of services for growth-oriented SMEs
ADVISORY
SUPPORT
Access to finance
Access to funding
Advice on EU law and
standards
INNOVATION
SUPPORT
Research funding
Market intelligence
IPR expertise
INTERNATIONAL
PARTNERSHIPS
Company missions
Brokerage events
Technology transfer
How it works: international partnerships
The Network business database contains thousands of company
profiles to find the perfect match
Matchmaking events across Europe where you can
meet potential business partners in person. We schedule meetings for you and help you
prepare for them.
How it works: technology missions
The Network identifies centres of interest and excellence. We organize
visits
Groups of companies share knowledge, transfer
technology and learn from each otherWe put together the visit, set up side meetings
and follow up to create opportunities.
How it works: advisory support
Access to venture capital and public aid
Advice on EU laws and standards
Input in the EU regulatory process
Advice on intellectual property
Technology transfer
How it works: innovation support
Tailored support packages to steer you onto the fast track to success.
Assistance to access funding available “Horizon 2020”
which has almost €80 billion of funding available over 7
years (2014 to 2020).
Help in protecting ideas and technologies.
Help in finding the right technology or innovation
Support in finding finance it needs to grow.
How it works: innovation support
Innovate2Succeed.
A needs assessment review and with reference to
Innovation Management Standard, CEN/TS 16555,
businesses will be helped to:
•Create an effective culture of innovation
•Develop and implement innovation processes
•Stimulate and capture ideas
•Discover opportunities for growth
Step 1
Diagnostic
Step 2
Action plan
Step 3
Help with
barriers
17 key sectorsNetwork experts in 17 key sectors have teamed up to provide you with customised support.
Women
Entrepreneurship
Agrofood Automotive, Transport
and Logistics
BioChemTech Creative
Industries
Environment
Healthcare ICT Industry &
Services
Intelligent
Energy
Maritime Industry
and Services
Materials Nano and micro
technologies
Services and
Retail
Sustainable
Construction
Textile & Fashion Tourism and
Cultural Heritage
Aeronautics
and space
Contact
• www.enterprise-europe.co.uk
• www.enterprise-europe.co.uk/content/about_enterprise_europe_network_uk/the_regions/northern_ireland/
• @EEN_InvestNI
September 2016 Update
30th September 2016
NI Textiles Cluster - Belfast
Brian J. McCarthy
M&M Competition Round 1
Consortium BuildingInnovate UK competition
Over 1,000 expressions of interest registered on website
Over 240 proposals submitted
Initial conclusions from assessment:
Projects showing lack of risk
Greater competition – reduced % of projects funded
UKFT
UK Fashion & Textile Association – UKFT
CEO – Adam Mansell
www.ukft.org
Report published in August
UK textile and apparel manufacturing gathers pace
UK Textiles and Apparel
Number of companies producing Textiles and Apparel in
UK rose to 7,880 – a 7.6% increase on the previous
year
Number of Apparel manufacturers – up by 10.7% to
3,830 companies
Number of Textile manufacturers – increased by 4.9%
on year to 4,030
Rising cost of overseas production
Increasing need for supply control and flexibility on the
part of retailers and brands
Greater consumer awareness of UK production
Continued export demand for UK-produced textiles and
apparel
Factors affecting change
Employment
The number of people employed in textile and apparel
manufacturing (including self-employed) is at its highest
level since 2006 – at approx. 132,000
Mixed start to 2016 – and effect of BREXIT
In Numbers
Exports - +1.6% to £8.5 billion
Imports - +3% to £23.4 billion
UK Consumer Spending - +4.8% to £66 billion
Michael Thompson Resonate Testing
Technical Textiles Group30th September 2016
The Nacelle Group -Complementary approach • Nacelle Systems Consultancy (NSC) – a
highly specialised consultancy service in its tenth year of operation. NSC has proven expertise in the design, integration, installation, validation and certification of powerplant related systems.
• Resonate Testing – a new commercial Test House offering high quality testing and certification services for organisations from all sectors, adding to our experience in product validation
• Nacelle Systems Technology (NST) – a subsidiary of the overall group that focuses on offering a unique diversification into R&D, Product Development and Fabrication.
Resonate Testing Limited offers a state-of-the-art 6,000 sqft test facility within the island of Ireland, convenient located within 1 hour of Dublin and Belfast. Our primary focus lies within our Four cornerstones of testing;• Vibration and shock• Powerplant Fire • Flammability• Environmental Testing
As a recently incorporated company, Resonate Testing Ltd represents a $3.3 Million USD investment, and currently employs 8 people, supported by an additional 8 people seconded from Nacelle Systems Consultancy Ltd. Recruitment is ongoing. The organisation is actively engaged in gaining UKAS accreditation to ISO 17025 for a range of testing including a complete range of powerplant fire testing.As part of The Nacelle Group we have a wealth of expertise in test specification and component certification and validation.
About Resonate Testing
Many products are required to meet rigorous standards, product-specific test protocols to achieve approval, certification standards or simply for validation during product development phases.
Our vibration test laboratory features a high force electrodynamic vibration table capable of a wide range of frequencies, amplitudes and spectrums.
In addition to the standards mentioned we have the capability to test to customer specified requirements and defined vibration profiles.
Resonate Testing Ltd-Vibration and Shock Testing
SHAKER, SLIP TABLE AND POWER AMPLIFIER
VIBRATION TESTING CAPABILITIES
Swept Sine Vibration Control
Resonance Search and Tracked Dwell
Multi Frequency Sine Control
RTCA DO-160: SECTION 8.0
IEC 60068-2-6:2007
Random Vibration Control
Power spectral density
RTCA DO-160G: SECTION 8.0
IEC 60068-2-64:2008
Shock Testing
Classical shock
Drop test
RTCA DO-160G: SECTION 7.0
IEC 60068-2-27:2008
IEC 60068-2-31:2008
• Temperature shock • Humidity• Sand and Dust• Waterproofness IP requirements• Icing• Fluids Susceptibility• Salt Spray• Shock, bump and topple• Fungus
There are a range of general environmental tests which will be complimentary to the core Vibration and Fire Testing
General Environmental Tests
Temperature -100C to +200CShock significant ramp rates in excess of aerospace requirements,+150C to -50 C in 7 Minutes.
Resonate Testing Ltd-Fire Test Facilities
FAA OIL BURNER (NEXGEN)
FAA (CARLIN) OIL BURNER
FAA Large burner testsThe Facility will offer power plant testing using a modified gun oil burner and a NexGen burner per FAA requirements.
We will have the capability of performing material testing for aircraft Seat Cushions, Cargo Panel and Thermal Acoustical insulation according to FAA & EASA requirements. In addition we will have facilities to fire test powerplant components including fire wall and hoses.
Testing will be carried out according to the following requirements:-
– AC20-135
– FAA Handbook Chapter 7,8, 11, 12, 24 & 25,
– FAR Part 25 Appendix F,
– AS1055, AS1377, AS4273
– FAA Handbook Chapter 1,2, 3 & 4
– And customer specific requirements.
Resonate Testing Ltd-Fire Test Facilities
FAA Multi-purpose small scale flammability testingThe facility will also offer small scale testing and measurement of the ignition resistant properties of aircraft materials. This is Vertical & Horizontal and 45° Material Testing and can be expanded to the requirements of other industries.
To the following specifications:-
– FAR Part 25 Appendix F Part I (Vertical, Horizontal, 45° and 60°) – Airbus AITM 2.002, 2.003, 2.004, & 2.005, – Boeing BSS 7230: F-1, F-2, F-3, F-4, F-5, & F-6
AccreditationsIt is the intent to gain UKAS accreditation for the Laboratory, and FAA approval for fire testing.
FAA MULTI-PURPOSE SMALL SCALE FLAMMABILITY
Flammability Testing Video -
Horizontal
Flammability Testing Video -
Vertical
Flammability Testing Video – 45
Degree
Why Test ?
• Research & Development – To reduce wasted effort in the R&D development cycle
• Engineering Assurance – To ensure that your product meets your own standards, assist your sales process and bring you into compliance with a customer requirement
• Certification – to show compliance with required industry standards for the application the product is being used within
What standards to test to?• Well, there are many, many standards across multiple sectors
– aerospace, marine, construction, household furnishings, clothing etc.
• It depends what the purpose of the test is
• As a test facility we will hold ISO17025 accreditation which covers core testing methodologies
• And we can develop the test to meet your industry requirement
Thank You
For further information on the capabilities of Resonate Testing and Nacelle Systems Consultancy
Please Contact Michael Thompson, General [email protected]
+44 (0)28 9073 6390
Barbara Shepherd Manchester
Metropolitan University
Head Of Business Engagement : Barbara Shepherd
E Mail: [email protected]
Mobile: 0777 268 4344
SKYPE: b.shepherdmmu
WEBSITE: http://fashioninstitute.mmu.ac.uk
Manchester Metropolitan
University
Numbers
260,000 alumni
37,000 students; 3,500 international students
Links with more than 70 professional bodies
and associations
More than 1,000 Undergraduate and
Postgraduate courses
Ranked within the global top 3% of
universities by The Times Higher Education
World University Rankings 2015
Manchester Metropolitan
UniversityFaculties
Faculty of Science and Engineering
Faculty of Arts and Humanities
Faculty of Health, Psychology and Social Care
Faculty of Education
Faculty of Business and Law
Cheshire Campus
School of Art
Manchester Metropolitan
University
Investment
£35 m: School of Art, 2012
£75 m: Business School, 2012
£15 m: Manchester Fashion Institute, 2013
£100 m: Birley Fields, 2014
Birley Fields
Manchester Fashion InstituteStrengths
Dedicated employability and placement team
Technical resources
Anthropometrics / laboratory facilities
International industrial and educational links
Broad research expertise
Manchester Fashion Institute Staff
55 full-time subject-specific academic staff
plus associate lecturers
Active in research, regularly contributing to
conferences and publishing in professional
and academic books and journals
Links with universities worldwide
Manchester Fashion Institute Research
Research teams
Fashion Business Management
Fashion Design
Fashion Marketing & Communication
Innovative Materials & Product Development
Research partners
ASOS, Berghaus, Canterbury,
Marks & Spencer, Speedo ,Boohoo
Avatars generated from anthropometric data, a sizing
research project for ASOS
Manchester Fashion Institute Partners
Academic partners
BIFT (Beijing)
Bunka Fashion College (Tokyo)
George Brown College (Toronto)
Istituto Marangoni (Paris / London)
North Carolina State University (Greensboro, NC)
Pearl Academy (New Delhi)
RMIT (Melbourne)
Ryerson University (Toronto)
SUNY (Buffalo, NY)
Texas Tech University (Lubbock, TX)
Dr Lynn Boorady (SUNY) speaking to students at
The Big Issue conference, 2014
Industry partners
Abercrombie & Fitch, ASOS, BooHoo,
British Fur Trade Association, Burberry,
Canterbury, Hugo Boss, Old Navy,
Orsola de Castro, Portwest, Quantem,
Ralph Lauren, Carry Somers, Speedo,
Tommy Hilfiger
Placement providers
Adidas, ASOS, BooHoo, Burberry,
Caroline Charles, Margaret Howell,
Net a Porter, New Look, Nike, Primark,
Puma, Ralph Lauren, River Island
Orsola de Castro (Reclaim to Wear / Fashion Revolution) speaking
on sustainable fashion at Connect Forum, 2015
Manchester Fashion InstituteProgrammes
Undergraduate
BA (Hons) Fashion Business Management
BA (Hons) Fashion Buying & Merchandising
BA (Hons) Fashion Design & Technology: Womenswear /
Sportswear / Menswear
BA (Hons) Fashion Futures
BA (Hons) International Fashion Promotion
BA (Hons) Fashion
BA (Hon) Art Direction
Foundation Year
Fashion Buying & Merchandising
Fashion Design & Technology
International Fashion Promotion
BA (Hons) Fashion Design & Technology
Postgraduate
MA Fashion Innovation
MA Fashion Journalism
MA Responsible Fashion
MA Fashion Graphics
MA Fashion Knitwear
MA International Fashion Business: Marketing
Management
MA Fashion Womenswear
MA Fashion Menswear
MA Fashion Innovation
MA International Fashion Business: Buying and
Merchandising Management
MA Responsible Fashion
MSc by Research, MPhil and PhD
PhD student, Nabil Nayal
Manchester Fashion Institute International
The Big Issue, annual student conference
Connect, sustainable fashion student collaboration
with BIFT (Beijing), RMIT (Melbourne) and SUNY
(Buffalo, NY)
Fashion promotion student collaboration with
BIFT (Beijing)
Sportswear design student collaboration with
Bunka (Tokyo)
Cotton Exchange: fashion buying and merchandising
student collaboration with Texas Tech University
(Lubbock, TX)
Sass Brown (SUNY) and Alexander Lamb (Ralph Lauren),
guest speakers at The Big Issue conference, 2015
Manchester Fashion Institute Student careers
Fashion design
Product development
Buying
Sourcing
Merchandising
Marketing
Supply chain management
Graduate Fashion Week, London
Alumni
Bert Bagnall Press Officer, Giorgio Armani
Darren Barry Design Manager, Kathmandu
Lauren Baxendale Senior Buyer, Henry Lloyd
Elizabeth Brown Design Engineer, Survitec Group
Tom Burke Assistant Manager, Chanel,
New Bond Street, London
Harry Davis Brand Manager, Givenchy
Jason Denham Denham Amsterdam
Catriona Derrins Designer, Gap/Old Navy
Camilla Fowlkes Buyer, Selfridges
Bryn Glor Product Developer, Burberry
Katharina Groborz Merchandising Manager,
McQ at Alexander McQueen
Alex Hindle Senior Designer, Team Sports, Adidas
Alexander Lamb Senior Designer, Ralph Lauren
Jenny Tran Designer, Burberry
Jason Denham Denham, Amsterdam
My Industry & Academic Background25 yrs + in Garment & Homewear Textile Industry
Commercial background : Have supplied all major UK High St Retailers across all product sectors
Worked with both UK manufacturers and Off Shore
Sourced and bought raw materials globally
Own consultancy business – Est 2008
Part Time Contract @ MMU – Since 2010
Research area of interest –Technical Textiles & Wearable Technologies
Working with MFI @ MMU
MMU SKILL SET Talent Pipeline Research Expertise Specialist Kit & Equipment Joint funded research projects
YOUR TEAM Build Business relationship Invest time and plan a realistic time frame
Academic Time Line
Head Of Business Engagement : Barbara Shepherd
E Mail: [email protected]
Mobile: 0777 268 4344
SKYPE: b.shepherdmmu
WEBSITE:http://fashioninstitute.mmu.ac.uk
JoanJohnston
Design and USA Sales Director Stephen Walters and Sons Ltd
AnillustrationofthecustomersIworked withandproductdevelopedoverseventeenyears
9yearsasaboarddirector
WorkedinternationallyinUSA,Italy,FranceandwithJapanesecustomers
InvolvedinsettingupaTradingcompanyinChina
http://www.johnstonscashmere.com/retail/about-johnstons-of-elgin/our-story-dvd/english
Autumn Winter Knitwear and Accessories15/16 photo shoot
Creative Design Director for Johnstons Of ElginProducts developed and promoted during the two years including cashmere and fine woollen for accessories, home,
cloth for fashion, as well as a collection of men’s and ladies knitwear, sold across international markets
Autumn Winter Interiors collection15/16 photo shoot
http://www.johnstonscashmere.com/retail/77-new-bond-street/
Bespoke Fabrics-Responsible for the creation and development of Bespoke Fabrics, an online business retailing own range of luxury English and Irish woven fabrics and products.
Northumbria University Fashion CommunicationFocusing on the broad aspects of promotion through 2D, 3D space and digital communication.
Scotland support for textile manufacturing through government supported bodies,
Textile Future Forum-Connecting universities and businesses around textile innovation for projects in Scotland.
Zero Waste Scotland-The Scottish Government announced a £70 million fund (March 16) for innovation within this sector, which includes materials.
Scottish Textiles and Leather Association –STLA members only group
Interface –linking universities and businesses looking to develop an idea
Scottish Enterprise
Textiles Scotland
For Smaller makers
Emergents supporting creatives in the Highland and Islands
Craft Scotland
Cultural Enterprises.
TextilesIndustryinScotland2011–2015
Key finding’s from the research
CraftsmanshipProvenanceTrust, engagement and emotional connection
Understanding the consumerTransparency Sustainability
“Companies need to be distinctive, promoting attractive niche products which gets buyers’ attention, whilst having more mainstream offerings which generates stable revenues. This balance supports success and sustainability.”
Paul Smith, New Dawn For Textiles Conference 2012
We are emotional beings and emotion lies behind many of the decisions we make in our lives”Padua (2012)
Vertu presentation Luxury Interactive London 2015
KNOW YOUR CUSTOMER
Beryl Gibson a trend consultant states“ Traceability and manufacturing with superb heritage and expert time honoured skills is seen as a quality as important as the actual fabric”. Retailers are more confident buying from a well-established mill, often co-branding the product using the suppliers name.
Presented by Made By in March 16, at a meeting supported by Zero Waste Scotland
Patagoniavideohttp://apparelcoalition.org
Presented by Made By in March 16, at a meeting supported by Zero Waste Scotland
Presented by Made By in March 16, at a meeting supported by Zero Waste Scotland
Glenfiddich Presentation Luxury Interactive London 2015
Glenfiddich Presentation Luxury Interactive London 2015
DesignintheUK
17th-25th Sept16 22nd-25th Sept16
24th -26th May16
13th /14th July2016
JOAN JOHNSTONCreative Director
Tel: +44 (0)[email protected]