INTRODUCTIONThis owner’s manual is provided to ease assembly,maintenance and use of your Prindle Catamaran. Webelieve these instructions portray the simplest methods.Do it our way the first time and learn from us. Then, ifyou discover a better method, feel free to tell us aboutit by faxing (714) 541-6643 or e-mailing pcat@perfor-mancecat.com. You may see your idea appear in thenext edition of the owner’s manual.

We are sure you will enjoy your Prindle Catamaran andhope that this manual will make your enjoyment easierto come by.

Make sure you join the Prindle Class Association - it’s funand it’s free to any new owner of a Prindle Catamaran($20 annually after the first year). You will receive thePerformance Sailor, our official class newsletter. Thisnewsletter contains feature articles, news and results ofregattas, photographs, timely tuning tips, specialannouncements and contests. As a member of thePrindle Class Association, you will also be entitled toenter and participate in all of our Class sanctioned regat-tas.

One design racing begins at the local fleet level leadingto regional qualifying regattas and culminates with theAnnual National Championship Regattas held in a differ-ent region every year. Even if you are not a racer, jointhe Prindle Fleet in your area. Our fleets have held suchfun events as watermelon hunts, hull flying contests,group cruises, Prindle barge picnics and clinics. It’smuch more fun to share the joy of sailing a PrindleCatamaran. If a fleet does not exist in your area - startone! All you need is a few enthusiastic owners!

Make sure your dealer fills out and submits your war-ranty card for your new boat. Not only does it validateyour warranty, but it will also automatically register youas a member of the Prindle Class Association. If youhave purchased a used Prindle, please send us your sailand hull numbers as well as your complete address.Make sure to notify us when you move too, thePerformance Sailor does not get forwarded.

Keep in touch. We love to hear from our owners!1800 East Borchard AvenueSanta Ana, CA 92705(714) 835-6416 (714) 541-6643 faxwww.performancecat.com

CONTENTSSECTION I: ASSEMBLY

Preparation 3Crossbars 3Trampoline 5Standard Jib System 8Deluxe 4-Way Jib System 8Jib Sheet 10Rudder System 11

Castings 11Tiller Crossbar 11Tiller Extension 11Rudder Blades 12Rudder Lock Bolt 12Adjusting the Helm 12Rudder Alignment 13Operation of Rudder System 13

Mast and Rigging 14Spreaders 14Diamond Wires 15Mast Rotator 16Masthorn 16Shrouds and Trapeze Wires 17Forestay and Jib Halyard 17Main Halyard 17

Raising the Mast 18Diamond Wires 20

Sails and Battens 21Mainsail Battens 21Hoisting the Mainsail 22Boom 23Mast Rotator 23Downhaul 23Mainsheet and Traveler 24Jib 24Jib Sheet Jam Preventer 26Righting Line 26Tightening rig tension 26Centerboard 27

SECTION II: SAILINGSail Trim

To Weather 27Reaching 28Downwind 28Downhaul Systems 28

TrapezingLacing the Harness 28Trapeze Positioning 29

LaunchingOnshore 30Offshore 30

Tacking 31Jibing 32Balance 33Righting 33

SECTION III: AFTER SAILINGLoosening the rig 36Lowering the sails 36Trailering 38

SECTION IV: MAINTENANCEDolphin Striker 40Battens 41

Foam/Fiberglass Battens 41General Maintenance Tips 41

Hulls 41Rudders 41Sails 42Outhaul Systems 42

SECTION V: TUNING PERFORMANCEMast Rake 43Mast Rotation 43Barberhauler 43

SECTION VI: SUPPLEMENTAL INFORMATIONMajor Parts of a Boat 44Glossary of Terms 45Knot Illustrations 46

Prindle 18-2 & 19 Owner’s ManualSection I:ASSEMBLY

PreparationTools needed:

✔ large screwdriver✔ pliers✔ needle-nose pliers✔ 1/2” offset wrench✔ combination 1/2” & 9/16 box-end wrench✔ adjustable wrench✔ silicone sealant

Your Prindle Catamaran comes packaged intwo hull containers, one large hardware boxand one mast box.

Place the two hull containers approximately 6feet apart with stapled seams at the top of thecartons facing each other. This will insure thatboth hulls will be facing the same direction.

Open the hull containers. Leave the hullsstanding on the cardboard supports.

Open the hardware box and familiarize your-self with the major parts of your boat. Thecontents of the hardware box should include:

Open the rigging box. The contents will belisted on the sheet enclosed.

CROSSBARSPut a dab of grease (included in bolt kit) intoeach hole in the hull for the front beam bolts.This is very important! Put a small amount oneach of the 3/8” hex head front beam boltsbefore assembling crossbars. The front beambolts are tapped into an aluminum plate.

boombattensrear crossbarsails (may be packedwith hulls)

trampolinerudder boxtiller crossbartiller extension

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Lay both the front and rear cross bars on thehulls with the outside edges even with the out-side edges of the hulls. The curf (groove) onthe front crossbar should face aft and the curfon the back crossbar should face forward.

To attach inside bolts on the rear crossbar,insert one of the 5/16” flathead screwsthrough the inboard hold of the rear crossbar.Apply silicone sealant to washer and nut andtighten with fingers only.

Align holes in front beam with the holes in thehull. Carefully thread all 4 of the 3/8” hexhead bolts, with grease on threads, throughthe beam and into the hull until they are about1/8” from being completely tight. CAUTION!!!

If the 3/88” bolts bind at all, remove the boltsand check fit of bolt without the beam on. DONOT force bolts as you could strip out the alu-minum plate inside the hull. If the bolt con-tinues to bind, use a 3/8-16 tap and rethreadthe hole to rectify the problem.

Tighten all rear beam bolts until about 1/8”from being fully snug. This allows beams toproperly align themselves. Snug down all 8bolts and then tighten all 8 bolts.

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TRAMPOLINE

Lead trapeze shockcords before putting tram-poline on hulls. Tie one piece of 1/8" x 2’paracord to one end of shock cord using asmall bowline knot.

Feed the line through the white fairlead onside of hull and out the other side. Continueacross to the other hull and repeat procedure.

The trapezes are continuous from one hull tothe other.

If one of the fairleads should come loose dur-ing assembly, simply apply some siliconesealant and push into place.

To install the trampoline, first unzip andremove the rear section. Slip the front of thetrampoline onto the front crossbar.

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Slide the sides down each side of the trampo-line track. Two people are needed here.

Slide the rear piece and zip the two piecestogether.

Center the trampoline in the front. Lace upthe back of the trampoline with 1/4" x 19’ lac-ing line. Begin by tying a double overhandknot in one end of the line and thread throughthe right/aft grommet.

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Always tighten rear lace line first. Stand at theback of the boat and tighten lines by bracingyour foot or knee on the rear crossbar forleverage. Pull tight. Tie line off under trampo-line. Do not trim excess line as it leavessomething to hold onto when re-tighteningtrampoline.

Lace up the side of the trampoline with 1/4" x19’ lacing line. Begin by tying a double over-hand knot in one end of the line and threadthrough the forward/inboard grommet.

Tighten starting at the front.

Complete lacing.

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STANDARD JIB SYSTEM

Attach jib block to padeye on side jib tracks.

Note: there will be an aluminum cleat on thedeck just forward on the jib track, this is forfuture addition of the 4-way jib system as isthe "sock" on the trampoline.

DELUXE 4-WAY JIB SYSTEMThe parts are included in a separate bag.

If the jib cars have installed padeyes removethem since they will not be used.

Attach jib adjuster plate to both sides.

Attach jib crosswire to adjuster plate, leadingwire through the tramp sock, choosing one offour middle holes on each side so the wire issnug. NOTE: You may find it necessary toremove the plate to put the "O" ring on theclevis pin.

Attach the small bullet blocks to the forwardmost hole on each adjuster plate using a3/16" shackle.

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Shackle the jib blocks to each of the two bul-let blocks on the crosswire.

Adjust the cleat angle as high as possibleusing the side set screws. Most people preferthis position.

The jib blocks have a ratchet which can beturned off and on by using the button on theside of the block.

Tie each 1/4" x 8 1/2’ line completely aroundthe jib block shackle – not through.

Lead the line around the bullet block on theadjuster plate and through the aluminumcleat on the opposite side of the boat leadingline through the trampoline sock.

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Lead the shockcord through both loops in thelines around jib shackles and tie shockcordtogether. Slide the knot into the sock to hidefrom view.

One side of 4-way system completed.

Entire 4-way system completed.

JIB SHEET

Tie a 1/4" shackle to the middle of the 3/16"x 6’ line provided.

Tie the small jib clew blocks to each end of theline using a small bowline. Thread the 5/16" x33’ jib sheet line by tying off one end to jibratchet block with a bowline. Thread throughsmall jib clew blocks, through cleat of jibblock, across trampoline and through oppositejib block in opposite direction. Jib sheetshould be one continuous line.

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RUDDER SYSTEM

Remove cradles out from under hulls and peeloff protecting paper from Prindle logo on hull.

Open rudder box, it should contain: left &right rudder castings with tiller arms and com-plete workings installed, and two rudderblades with lock pins attached.

CASTINGS

To install rudder castings onto transom, makesure Prindle insignia is on outboard side.Remove cotter key and pintle from casting.Line up casting with gudgeons on transomand reinsert pintle through gudgeons andcasting.

TILLER CROSSBAR

To attach tiller crossbar to tiller arms, remove1/4" bolt, washer, and lock nut from end oftiller arm. Place tiller crossbar over tillers withlarge hole at end facing up and end cap poprivet facing aft. Drop 1/4" bolt down throughcrossbar, putting washer between tiller cross-bar and tiller arm. Insert 1/4" bolt throughhole in tiller arm and put lock nut on end.Make sure lines inside tiller go on either sideof bolt, do not cross them. Do not put the nuton the bolt at adjuster end of crossbar untilrudders have been aligned (instructionslater).

TILLER EXTENSION

Remove lock nut from end of tiller extension.Attach extension to tiller crossbar and re-attach lock nut.

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Tiller extension should be able to touch tram-poline easily. If it does not, the tiller crossbarhas been installed backwards.

RUDDER BLADES

To install rudder blades into rudder castings,untie ends of downhaul and uphaul lines incastings, but do not unlace. Remove 1/4" boltwith lock nut. Place rudder blade betweencasting with lock pin forward. Reinstate 1/4"bolt through casting and 1/4" hole in rudderblade. Replace lock nut and tighten until rud-der will just fall by itself. Do not over-tightenas this will restrict rudder movement, tooloose and rudder will be sloppy in casting.Thread downhaul and uphaul lines into rudderblade and tie off ends with a figure eight knot.Make sure the ends do not extend beyond theedge of blade. Follow same procedure on bothblades.

RUDDER LOCK BOLT

The rudder lock bolt is on the forward edge ofeach rudder blade. It is necessary to adjustthis bolt to obtain proper helm. Making thebolt longer produces more weather helm( h e avy steering) and shortening the boltdecreases weather helm (easier steering).

ADJUSTING HELM

We recommend the following method foradjusting the rudders before the boat issailed.

Place boat so there is clearance to lower rud-ders and lock down. Take a short batten oryardstick and lay the straight edge flushagainst the transom. Adjust the lock bolt sothat the forward button edge of the rudder isabout 1/4" to 3/8" forward of the forwardedge of the batten. (Pull rudder back lightly topull out any slop). 1/4" to 3/8" forward is agood starting point, further adjustment maybe necessary for personal preference.

Note: As the mast is raked aft, the ruddersmust be raked forward to balance helm.

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RUDDER ALIGNMENT

Lock both ruddersdown. Measure 20”up the leading edgeof rudcder and markthis measurement.Do the same on thetrailing edge.Turn the rudders sothey are pointingdown the hull as ifsailing stra i g h tahead.Measure from thefront edge of onerudder blade (20”up) to the centerlineof the front edge ofthe other blade. Dothe same with thetrailing edge.

If the distance between the trailing edges is greaterthan that of the front edges; lengthen the tilleradjuster by unscrewing it.

If the distance between the front edges is greaterthan that of the trailing edges; shorten the tilleradjuster by screwing it in.

One complete turn is 1/16 of an inch.

Attach adjuster end of tiller crossbar to tiller.

Example: if the distance between the front edges is86” and the distance between the trailing edges is86-1/2”

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CAUTION!!!! Check for overhead wires before raising mast. Amast which comes in contact with electrical powerlines can causeserious injury or death.

Prindle 15 mast step hinge in use Prindle 16 mast step hinge in use14

Prindle 18 mast step hinge in use

Stand on trampoline with one foot onrear crossbar to steady yourself.

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Raise the mast to your shoulder and walkforward with it while extending arms overyour head until the mast is held by the sideshrouds.

Attach theforestay to the1/4” shackle hold-ing the bow bridlewires together.After this initialrigging you canleave the forestayturnbuckle pre-set.

Tighten turnbuckleuntil mast is rakedslightly aft ofstraight up. SeePerformanceTuning section foroptimum mast

rake suggestion.If the shrouds arein one of the topholes the rig willbe a little loose.

After hoisting themainsail we willexplain how totighten the rig.,Use a wrench orpliers to tightenthe nuts againstthe turnbucklebarrel. This willhelp keep it fromunturning.

NOTE: Make sureto tape the turn-buckle barrel andnuts to preventthem from loosen-ing.

Diamond WiresPrindle 18:Adjusting the ten-sion of the dia-mond wiresshould be donewith care. Beforethe sails arehoisted, but afterthe mast hasbeen stepped;adjust both dia-mond wires tothe same tight-ness. If one islooser than theother your mastwill bend more onone tack than theother.

Push both wires towards the mast with equaltension at the same time. The wires shouldtouch the mast at least 12” above the lowerattachment point but not more than 20”above.

If the diamond wires are too tight, your mastwill not bend and undo strain will be put onthese wires.

WARNING: If the diamond wires are tooloose the mast could break under high pres -sure loads.

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Be sure to tape the locking nuts on turn-buckles after you have adjusted the wires sothat they will not unturn. SAILING NOTE:The looser the diamond wires are the morethe mast will bend and the flatter the sail willbecome (and vice versa).

A way to insurethat the turn-buckles on mastdo not loosen isto thread a smallline (batten tie)through the cen-ter hole in eachbarrel, tying aknot on the backside of the barrel.

SAILS AND BATTENSMainsail battensThe Prindle mainsail has a batten betweeneach panel of cloth. The longest one is thesecond one up from the boom. The rest gofrom long to short as you progress up thesail. The 15 and 16 each have nine battens,the 18 has 10.

Remove batten string ties from clew of main-sail.

Fold batten string in half and loop throughbatten grommet on leech of sail.

Insert tapered end of each batten (foamcore) or the end with rounded edges (fiber-glass) into batten pockets making sure eachbatten fits into the pocket end protector atforward edge of sail. Put plastic caps on aftend of fiberglass battens.

Lead string up through either hole in foambatten or through end cap and down throughtop grommet and tie an overhand knot(tightly) while pushing batten into sail withthumb.

Push batten tight enough to eliminate allwrinkles in batten pocket if using fiberglassbattens. Foam battens should be tightenough to just “flop” from side to side.

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Finish tying string with a square knot andtuck loose ends into batten pocket.

Finished tie on fiberglass batten.

Hoisting the mainsailFace your boat into the wind when raising orlowering your sails. Lay the mainsail to thebatten ends will not get caught on the tillercrossbar.

Prindle 15 & 18:Attach the twistedshackle to themain halyardring. NOTE: Thehalyard shouldfollow the curf ofthe mast and notwrap around thehook at the mast-head.

Attach the twisted shackle to the head of themainsail and place forward edge of sail intocurf of mast.

With one hand, feed the sail into the curfand pull on rope tail of halyard (exiting atbase of mast) with the other.

Make sure themast base sheave,or roller, spinsfreely while raisingthe sail. If it doesnot, you may needto file the inside ofthe mast basecasting.

When the sailreaches the topof the mast, youmust lock thering on the hal-yard line to thehook at the headof the mast. Todo this, pull hal-yard until the ringis above thehook.

Rotate mast (pushrotator) towardsthe starboard hull)so hook is insidering and pull downon the tack of thesail gently untilthe ring locks ontothe hook.

Coil the extramain halyard lineand store in one ofthe pockets on thetrampoline.

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Prindle 16:Attach main hal-yard shackle intohole at head ofmainsail.

Place forwardedge of sail intocurf of mast.With one hand,feed the curf andpull on rope tailof halyard withthe other. Pullfrom directly for-ward of mast andnot off to eitherside. This helpsto prevent hal-yard from jump-ing out of masthead sheaves.

When the sailreaches the top ofmast, you mustsecure the secondmetal stop on thehalyard wire intothe halyard lockon the mast. DOthis by leadingwire betweenteeth on lock andpulling down onsail to put tensionon the metal stop.The other stop,further down onthe halyard wire,

is for a reefed main only.

Cleat main halyard off and stow extra line.

Boom

Remove clevis pin from gooseneck assemblyattached to forward end of boom. Connectboom to the bracket on the mast using thisclevis pin and cotter ring.

Remove clevis in from outhaul car on aft endof boom and lift boom to aft end of mainsail.Clew ring of sail goes in between sides ofouthaul car. Reinsert clevis pin through sailand outhaul car. Install cotter ring in end ofclevis pin.

Mast Rotator(previously installed onto mast)

Tie rotator line 3/16” x 5’) to fairlead builtinto the aluminum clam cleat, down throughthe eye in the rotator wishbone and backthrough the cleat. This provides a 2:1 pur-chase for adjusting mast rotation. 45 to 75degrees rotation is considered normal formost sailing.19

DownhaulTie downhaul line (3/16” x 7’) to tack ring ofmainsail and lead:

1) Through pulley on gooseneck on portside of mast

2) Through tack ring on sail

3) Around pulley on starboard side of mast

4) Back through tack ring and down to cleat

Prindle 15 and 18 Note: Lines are leadthrough inside of rotator wishbone. Amethod used by many racers to increasepurchase is to tie the line through “U” brack-et on gooseneck base first, lead it upthrough the tack ring, and then follow steps1 to 4.

Mainsheet and TravelerPrindle 15 & 16:To thread main-sheet blocks (6:1purchase) layblocks on a flatsurface with thelower ratchetblock facing rightand the upperblock on rollers asshown. Feed linethrough cleat andmiddle roller(ratchet) of lower

block and lead:

1) Through firstroller of upperblock

2) Up through out-side roller of lowerblock

3) Down throughmiddle roller ofupper block

4) Up through insideroller of lower back

5) Through last rollerof upper block

6) Down through fair-lead on cleat base oflower block and tie offwith a single overhandknot.

Prindle 18: To thread mainsheetblocks (7:1 purchase)lay blocks on theirsides on a flat surface.Feed line away fromyou through cleat andratchet roller of lowerblock and lead:

1) Towards youthrough bottom ofroller of upper boomblock

2) Away through bot-tom roller of lowerblock

3) Towards youthrough top roller ofupper block

4) Away through mid-dle roller of lowerblock

5) Towards youthrough top roller of upper block

6) Away through top roller of lower block

7) Tie to becket of upper block with bowline

All boats: Install upper block to block hang-er on boom with 1/4” shackle. Install lowerblock to traveler with 1/4” shackle.

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Prindle 15 and 16: Thread loose end of mainsheet through trav-eler cleat and fairlead (mounted on swivelpedestal, rear crossbar), traveler car, andpad eye. Tie off with figure eight knot.

Prindle 18:Tie or splice 5/16” traveler line to loose endof mainsheet and thread same as 15 and 16.

Complete mainsheet and traveler on Prindle18

Complete mainsheet and traveler on 16(same as 15)

Tips on splicing from Leigh Martin: Cut thebitter end of the mainsheet off with a newsingle edge razor. Pull out 8 to 12 inches ofthe center core and cut with a hot knife (ortape, cut with a razor, and burn end). Putthe end of this core up to end of travelersheet and carefully sew them together, endto end with no overlap using a good, heavydacron-polyester thread. Feed the core andtraveler sheet back into the mainsheet coveruntil it is all smooth. Sew the traveler sheet

into the mainsheet cover for the last 8 to 12inches. This can be done neatly by stitchingwith the weave of the braid so that yourstitches do not show. Make sure the stitchesgo through the middle of the new core (trav-eler). Complete it by turning end of themainsheet cover over the traveler sheet.

JibPrindle 16 and 18only: Tie “S” hook to the afthalf of the jib halyard.This can be left onpermanently. Attach“S” hook to the headof the jib with a 3/16”shackle. Hook open-ing must face towardmast.

Start the zipperaround forestay wire and jib halyard line.The jib halyard is internal in the luff of jib.

Hoist jib up, closingsipper as you do until“S” hook just passesring.

Slowly pull the jibback down at thetack (forward lowercorner) until the hookis locked in place.Note: the opening onhook should bebetween1/4” to 3/8”for easiest operation.

Unlock the brummelhooks from each otherand store extra hal-yard length in one ofthe pockets on thetrampoline.

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Lead jib downhaul linearound shackle pinand cleat downhaulline snugly into cleaton jib tack.

Prindle 16 only:Attach two small pul-lies (attached to jibsheet line earlier) tofoot of jib by leadingeach one around thefront of the mast, one

from each side.Put a 1/4”shackle throughgrommet inlower aft cornerof jib (clew)and reattachpullies with

shackle pin.Make sure thatthese lines arenot twisted.Pull up slackfrom line lead-ing between thejib sheet blocksand trampoline.

Prindle 18 only:Tie jib clew blocks to sail clew rather thanwith shackle. Use one of the 3/16” x 3’ 7”lines. Tie one block to each end.

Jib Sheet andJamPreventerUsing the extra7’ piece ofshock cord sup-plied attach thecenter to themast and tieeach end to dolphin striker bar on oppositesides of mast. Be sure the jib sheet is leadoutside shock cord. This will keep the jibsheet from catching under mast base.

Rigged boat ready to sail.

Righting LineIt is recommendedthat you alwayscarry a rightingline on your boat.A grommet andpouch are on thetrampoline to facil-itate this. You willneed a line at least14’ long and 3/8”or 7/16” in diame-ter. Tie a figureeight knot about9” from one end.Insert the taildown through thegrommet in tramp by the mast and tieanother figure eight knot on this end. Youmight also find it useful to tie knots on theline every fewfeet so your wethands do notslip when right-ing the boat.Coil the line andstore it in apouch untilneeded.22

Tightening the rig tensionAfter the boat is completely rigged with sailsup and mainsheet connected, it is time totighten the rig. You should not attempt todo this by yourself or if it is windy until youhave done it several times.

Turn the boat untilthe wind is blow-

ing from a 45o

angle to the bow.Ease the travelerout to the lee sideand sheet themain in tight.Have your crew siton the trampolineto keep the main-sheet fromuncleating and theboat from tipping.With the mainsheeted to lee-

ward, the leeward shroud will be loose.Move the shroud down a couple of holes onthe adjuster, but not all the way down.Replace clevis pin and ring. Loosen main-sheet.

Turn the boat so the wind is coming from theopposite side. Ease the traveler out to whatis now the lee side and sheet in. The newleeward shroud will be loose. Move theshroud down to the corresponding hole inthe adjuster as the first shroud. If the rig isstill loose, move the shroud down one or twomore holes and repeat with the other sideuntil the rig is fairly tight and both shroudsare in the same hole on the adjuster.

It is possible to over-tighten the rig whichwill make the mast hard to rotate.

When you take the boat apart, be sure toloosen one side only before taking the maindown. By leaving one shroud in the correcthole, you will only have to tighten one sidenext time you go sailing.

If you are not happy with the mast rake youhave, simply lengthen or shorten theforestay turnbuckle. Be sure to leave atleast 10 complete threads into each side ofthe barrel.

SECTION II: Sailing

Sail TrimTo Weather

The main traveler should be centered withthe main and jib sheets in snug. Be carefulnot to pull the sails in too tight. If the mainis oversheeted (too tight), the mainsail willbe too flat and the boat will not move veryfast.

If the jib is over-sheeted it will stopthe air flowingbetween the leechof the jib and themainsail. This gap(slot) between thejib leech and themainsail should beabout 12 inchesnear the top of thejib.

The jib tell-tale onthe leeward andwindward sidesshould be streaming back. If the windwardtell-tale on the jib is flopping forward youshould head the boat downwind a little. Ifthe leeward tell-tale is flopping forward, youshould head the boat into the wind a little, orif you do not want to head up any further, letthe sail out a little.

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Reaching

The main traveler should be set a few inchesfrom center with the main sheet snug andthe jib sheet slightly looser than used whengoing to weather. This will allow the dis-tance between the main and the jib toincrease. Both sails should be sheeted in sothat both the leeward and windward tell-tales are streaming back.

Downwind

Let the main traveler all the way out to theend of the crossbar and sheet the mainloosely. Do not let the main out far enoughto rub against the shrouds if at all possible.Trim the jib sheet loosely trying to keep thewindward and leeward tell-tales streamingback.

If your boat is equipped with a barber hauler,see Section V - Tuning for Performance forinstructions regarding its use.

Downhaul SystemsThe luff of both the main and jib should bepulled down tightly to pull all the wrinklesout when sailing. You have to be quitestrong to over-downhaul themainsail, so give ita hard pull. Youcan easily over-tighten the jibdownhaul, so justpull hard enoughto get wrinkles.

Notice the diagonalwrinkles in the luffof both the mainand jib. Both sailsshould be down-hauled until theydisappear.

TRAPEZINGLacing the HarnessUsing bowlines, tie eachof the lines supplied ontothe bottom inside grom-mets. Lace back andforth loosely and tie ahalf hitch at the top out-side grommets.

Put the harness on. Itshould be slightly loose.Most people find a tightlylaced harness uncom-fortable. Slip the web-bing over your head.Feed the lines through the webbing grommet

from the backside, thenfeed one through eachbackside of top grom-met near hook. Tieends together using anoverhand knot. Do notuse a square knot. Thewebbing over yourshoulders should fittightly. The tighter it isthe more it will supportyour back and shoul-ders.

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Trapeze PositioningWe recommend that you practice going outon the trapeze on shore before you try itwhile sailing.

Before hooking up, pull the dog bone downand see if it will reach the trampoline. Thelowest ring should almost reach the outsideedge of the trampoline. If it does not, adjustthe length using the height adjuster.

Sit on the side of the hull just forward of theshroud. Pull the dog bone down and hookthe uppermost ring onto the harness hook.

Lean back until you are being supported bythe trapeze wire. Hold the jib sheet in yourback hand.

Bring your forward leg out, put foot on rail.

Now bring your aft leg out and put that footon the rail. Slowly straighten your legs out,keeping your feet two feet apart. Lean back!Do not hold onto the handle as you couldunhook yourself.

When trapezing on a reach, move yourweight back on the hull to keep the bows up.

LAUNCHINGAlways launch with your bows into the wind.There are two basic wind conditions that willaffect the way you launch:

Onshore - (wind blowing from the water towards the land)

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Offshore - (wind blowing from the landtowards the water)

Before leaving the beach, make sure that therudders are up all the way, the main traveleris out all the way, both sheets are loose andthe hiking stick is on the windward side ofthe boat.

Onshore

Push the boat off at a 45 to 60 degree angleto the wind until it floats, jump on and sheetin the jib (only) tight. (Do not sheet in themain yet.) This will pull you out at a goodangle until you can safely drop your rudders.

As soon as water is deep enough, drop andlock both rudders, bring traveler to centerand sheet in main. You’re off!

This method can be used when very light off-shore winds are blowing. Otherwise use thefollowing method.

Offshore

Look to make sure it is totally clear whereyou will be backing.

Walk boat out backwards until it is floating.Give boat a big shove and jump onto thebows. Keeping the transoms out of the

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water, have the crew hold jib clew out as farforward as necessary to fill jib with air andkeep boat moving backwards. Keeping thetransoms out of the water will keep the boatmoving straight out. When you are far outenough (usually about 100 feet) let the jibgo, move to the proper sailing positions,drop rudders down, sheet in both sails andgo.

TACKINGBefore starting your tack, be sure you aresailing to weather with good speed (sheetedin and traveler centered). Do not attempt totack while sailing on a reach.

Make a smooth turn to windward using aboutone half the amount of rudder throw.Turning the rudders too sharply will stall theboat and bring it to an abrupt stop.

When the bows are pointing into the wind,release the main sheet 1 or 2 feet. Leavethe jib cleated.

The skipper should now move aft, into thecenter, and swing the hiking stick to the newside. Do not straighten the rudders out. Ifyou do, you will find yourself into “irons”(boat pointing directly into wind making noheadway).

Leave the jib cleated until the boat is on itsnew heading. When the main “pops” to thenew side, release the jib, bring it acrossquickly and sheet in. Keeping the jib on thewindward side is called “backwinding”. Ithelps pull the bows around until your tack iscompleted.

While the crew is sheeting in the jib, theskipper should be sheeting in the main andmoving to the proper position on the wind-

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ward side of the boat. Tack is now complet-ed.

NOTE: If you end up “in irons” you will startto drift backwards. While sitting on theweather hull, uncleat the main and push theboom to leeward. Backwind the jib and pushthe tiller away from you. This reverses therudders and allows the boat to sail back -wards. Leave them reversed until the bowsare pointed in the direction of a close reach.Release the jib, straighten the rudders andsheet both sails in quickly.

JIBINGWhen sailing downwind or on a broad reachyou must jibe. To do so, first check newdirection to be sure it is clear of other boats.

The skipper should move aft and to the cen-ter of the boat while turning the rudderabout 1/3 of the full throw.

Swing the hiking stick to the opposite side,placing the end aft of the rear beam and for-ward of the tiller arm. Keep the ruddersturned by holding onto the tiller crossbar.

When boat is heading straight downwind,grab the sheets between the main blocksand pull the sail across. BE SURE TO KEEPLOW AS THE BOOM CROSSES THE BOAT.

When the main fills on the opposite side itmay “snap” across so be ready for it. Haveyour crew bring the jib to the new side.Move to the side of the boat and pick up thehiking stick.

BALANCEYour Prindle Catamaran will sail faster andeasier if it is sailed on its “lines” so that thewater flows across the hull as it wasdesigned to do.

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Note how the transom is almost under waterand the bows are very high. The sailors aretoo far aft - MOVE FORWARD!

Bows are too low and transoms are too highout of the water. Sailors are too far forward- MOVE AFT!

Trim fore and aft here is good, but there istoo much weight on one side for the light air.Move the crew to the middle or leeward side.

When balance is proper, the leeward bow will

be between 6 and 12 inches out of the waterand the weather hull will just touch thewater. The idea is to sink the leeward hulldeep into the water, thereby using the hull toreduce side slippage.

RIGHTINGEven the best sailors flip occasionally, so pre-pare your boat for the inevitable. Install arighting line according to instructions inSection I - Assembly.

The boat will losespeed as it raisesup on one hull andusually flips overslowly. Sit downon the flat surfaceof the hull.

Ease yourselfdown to the bot-tom hull usingthe mast as astep.

It is important toget off the top hullquickly to preventthe boat fromturning upsidedown (turtle). Donot jump off theboat as currentand wind may notallow you toreturn to it.

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The skippershould uncleatthe main whilethe crew uncleatsthe jib.

The crew shouldreach around thefront crossbar forthe righting lineand throw it overthe top hull.Make sure thebows are pointinginto the wind.

If the mast ispointed into thewind, the boatmay flip over inthe other directionas you try to rightit. To swing bowsaround into thewind, walk backtowards the tran-som slowly untilbows are posi-tioned properly.

Be careful not toshift your com-bined weight toofar forward or aftas this may causethe boat to rolland turn “turtle”.

Standing evenwith the frontcrossbar, theskipper and crewshould grab therighting line andlean backwards.Knots in the linehelp keep yourhands from slipping. If you are single-hand-

ing your boat,carry your jib bagon board. Grabonto the rightingline, scoop up abag of water andhold it over yourshoulder whileleaning back. Thisextra weightshould allow youto right the boat.

An alternativemethod is to tie aloop in the end ofthe righting line

and attach theloop to your tra-peze harnesshook for moreleverage.

Once the tip ofthe mast comesout of the water,the boat will rightquickly. Be sureto hold onto therighting line untilyou can grab theboat and pullyourself up. Theboat will now be

pointing directly into the wind and movingslowly if at all. Stow the righting line back inthe pouch and you are sailing again!

REEFINGUnlock the main halyard and lower the main-sail down about 4 feet. Lock the lower metalstop on the halyard wire into the halyardlock on the mast. The sail should now beabout 4 feet short of being fully hoisted.Downhaul the luff using the ring in the reefpatches.

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Attach the outhaul car to the aft ring.Starting with the bottom batten, roll theextra sail up and tie with two 2 foot pieces ofline using the reef points (grommets) in thesail. Do now tie around boom.

Reefed sail on a Prindle 16.

SECTION III:AFTER SAILING

Loosening the rigBefore you lower your sails, you must loosenthe rig tension using the mainsheet and trav-eler method (explained in Section I -Assembly). With the wind coming from thebow at a 45 degree angle, travel the main allthe way out to the leeward corner. With thecrew sitting on the trampoline, sheet themain in tight. The lee shroud should becomeloose.

Move the shroud up to the second to the top

hole in adjuster, insert pin and ring anduncleat the main. You do not need to loosenthe other shroud. Leave it in the proper sail-ing position and you will know where toplace the loosened shroud the next time yougo sailing.

Lowering the sailsPoint your bows into the wind. Uncleat themain downhaul and disconnect the boomfrom the mainsail.

To lower the jib, uncleat the jib downhaul.Rehook the jib halyards together with brum-mel hooks. Hoist the jib slightly until “S”hook is just above the ring and quickly pullthe jib down by the tack.

NOTE: If the jib does not lock or unlock thefirst time, try again. Remember the hookmust face aft and to hoist the “S” hook justabove the ring. Pull down slowly to lock andquickly to unlock.

Lower the jib and tie the jib halyard at thebase of the mast. Use the downhaul cleatfor this purpose. Pull the lines tight to keepthem from flapping while trailering. Leavezipper open with the zipper car at the headof the sail. If it is allowed to go to the bot-tom, it may fall off.

Fold the jib in half and start rolling from themiddle.

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Roll tightly withoutany folds. If it iswindy, put the jibunder the hikingstrap to keep itfrom blowing awaywhile you lowerthe main.

To lower the mainon the Prindle 15and 18, hoist themainsail up as faras possible androtate mast awayfrom sail tounhook main hal-yard. This rotation

should be towards the side of the mast thatthe hook is riveted onto. The object to turnthe headboard and ring away from the hookenabling the sail to be lowered past thehook.

NOTE: The best way to do this is to haveone person pull the sail up and rotate themast using the rotator wishbone while some -one else pulls the clew of the mainsail in theopposite direction than the mast is rotated.The person hoisting the sail lets the halyardgo and pulls down on the tack while keepingthe mast rotated.

Once the sail has dropped a couple of inchesbelow the hook, let the clew and rotator goand drop the sail.

NOTE: Be sure to have a knot tied in theend of the halyard to keep it from goinginside the mast.

After the main is down, attach the twistshackle to the rotator bar and pull the mainhalyard firmly and tie off.

To lower the main on the Prindle 16, hoistthe mainsail up as far as possible and itshould release from the halyard lock. Letthe sail drop.

After the main is down, store the shackle inthe curf on the mast, pull firmly on the mainhalyard and wrap the line around the mast

(below the shrouds) 3 or 4 times. Cleat offusing the main halyard cleat.

Roll the main starting with the second orthird batten from the top. Roll smoothly andtightly. Stop when you get to the next tothe last bottom batten.

Insert the rolled jib and continue rolling.

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Wrap and tie downhaul line around rolledsails.

Place sails in long mainsail bag. Your jib bagcan now be used to carry other miscella-neous items.

We strongly recommend that you store yoursails in this manner rather than folding themas they will last much longer.

Unfasten the lower main block from the trav-eler car and the traveler line. Tie the out-haul line tail to the lower main block shackleand coil the excess mainsheet. This keepeverything from becoming tangled in stor-age.

Trailering

Place the boat on the trailer. Tie the boatdown using at least 1/4” nylon or dacronline. DO NOT TIE ANYTHING TO THE DOL-PHIN STRIKER OR ROD. Remove the rudderblades from castings. Be sure they aremarked port or starboard so you don nothave to retune them the next time you gosailing.

Attach mast hinge to the mast. With oneperson on the trampoline, push the mast for-ward and disconnect the forestay shackle.DO NOT undo the turnbuckle. Rig shackle soit holds the two bow bridle wires together.Check in back of boat to make sure you willnot be lowering the mast onto a person, car,or power line.

CAUTION - Extreme caution must beobserved when launching and sailingnear overhead wires. A mast near awire could be fatal!33

The second person should move to the backto catch the mast as it is lowered.

While the second person holds the mast,remove the hinge pin and walk the mast for-ward until you can place it in the front mast

support on the trailer. Store hinge in downposition.

Place the top of the mast in the rear mastsupport making sure the mast does notextend beyond the rudder castings. Trailerthe Prindle 15 and 18 with curf up to preventdamage to rear support padding and mast.DO NOT trailer with the Prindle 18 mast onits side. The bouncing will put excess shockloads on the spreader assembly.

Secure the mast and support to the boat bywrapping the tie down line around the masttwice and down through the trampolinegrommets. Store the tiller under a hikingstrap or jib lead line to keep it from flappingaround. Tie a 3 or 4 foot piece of line to thetraveler pad eye, around the tiller crossbartwice, and through the fairlead and cleat.This will keep the rudder castings fromswinging. Tie the front end of the mastdown making sure to wrap line twice herealso.

There are several ways to store your riggingwhile trailering. Here are two popular meth-ods.

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#1 Tie a 6 foot line to the front mast sup-port. Bring all shroud and trapeze wires for-ward to the front support and tie the linearound them.

Lace the forestay through the back lace lines2 or 3 times. Store trapeze dogbones undertrampoline to keep them from bangingaround. You may wish to tie the wires up offthe front crossbar to keep them from rubbingon a long trip with a line over the mast.

#2 This method is not recommended if theboat is stored outside during the rainy sea-son. Remove both hatch covers and feedshrouds and trapeze wires into each hull.Store forestay as in method #1.

With any method you use, the importantthing is to keep all rigging separate and tan-gle-free.

Store the jib sheet by tying or shackling thejib clew blocks to the bow bridle shackle.

Pull the jib sheet snug and cleat each side.Store the extra line in the halyard pouch orloop around hiking straps.

SECTION IV:Maintenance

Dolphin StrikerThe single most important maintenance pro-cedure is done on the dolphin striker. ThisMUST be kept snug at all times with no playbetween the vertical rod and the bar. Thinkof the dolphin striker as the backbone ofyour boat.

To test the snugness of your dolphin striker,grab the aluminum bar between the side andthe rod, push upand then pulldown. If you canmove it more than1/4” you musttighten the rod.

To tighten therod, first loosenthe nylon mastbearing (half-round ball on topof mast step).

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Loosen screw atbottom of strikerrod.

Turn dolphinstriker rod clock-wise using awrench and theflat spot on therod designed forthis purpose untilthe bar is snugagain.

Retighten thenylon ball andscrew.

The bolts thatconnect thestriker bar to thefront crossbarshould be loos-ened occasionallyto check forcracks in thecrossbar. Ifcracks are appar-ent, the crossbarshould bereplaced. Thereis a back-upplate inside thecrossbar so thesebolts can betightened easilyfrom the outside. Again, do not overtighten,since the bolts could snap.

BATTENSPrindle 16 and 18 Catamarans are equippedstandard with solid fiberglass battens. Theseare virtually unbreakable but do requiresome attention.

Make sure that battens are inserted all theway into the batten pocket with tapered endinside the stop at the luff of the sail. If it isnot, the batten may tear the sail. The bat-tens should extend about 1-1/2” past theend of the batten pocket. You may wish totrim them to this length.

Loosen battens when storing the sail formore than a few weeks or during extremetemperature changes. This relieves pressureon the sail and battens and will preserve thelife of both.

Foam/Fiberglass BattensRace equipped Prindle 16 and 18s and allPrindle 15s are equipped with foam/fiber-glass battens. These battens are much soft-er and more fragile requiring more care.

Occasionally, a delamination may occur atthe tapered end where the foam narrowstowards the tip. To repair, spread the glassand foam apart slightly and coat with 5-minute epoxy, clamp tip together, and letharden. This repair should be stronger thannew.

Take care when rolling a sail with foam bat-tens. If the sail is rolled unevenly and bat-tens are allowed to twist they will hold thetwist. This may hamper your sail shape.You can however, remove this twist byremoving the batten from the sail and twist-ing it in the opposite direction and holding itfor a moment or two. The batten shouldspring back fairly straight.

GENERAL MAINTENANCE TIPSAfter your second sail on your PrindleCatamaran and periodically thereafter:

1) Tighten the 8 crossbar bolts. This is very important as most of the strain on the boat is concentrated on these bolts.

2) Check all shackles (shrouds, forestay,etc.) and other fasteners (including nuts and bolts on blocks and cleats). Tighten where necessary.

3) Check all hardware attached to hulls (bow tangs, shroud pins, gudgeons) for tight-ness. Do not over tighten.

4) Cut off excess length on solid fiberglass mainsail battens leaving 1-1/2” past aft edge of sail.

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HullsCheck for leaks at all hull fittings by coveringthese areas with detergent and blowing air(from your lungs) into drain plug hole. DONOT USE A VACUUM CLEANER AS THEEXCESS PRESSURE CAN DAMAGE THEHULLS. If detergent bubbles, there is a leak.Remove fitting and cover area with clear sili-cone sealant and replace.

RuddersRub paraffin on the inside of casting whereblade slides to ease operation. To fine tune:remove uppermost bolt on casting and paraf-fin. If there is slack between sheaves adda washer on nut end of bolt. Insert andtighten. This will help keep lines of sheaves.Remove bolt which holds top of spring andrub with paraffin. If rudders do not kick upeasily: pull spring to loosen tension andreplace bolt. Paraffin lock pin. Sand allrough edges on blades lightly. Alwaysremove blades for trailering.

SailsRub paraffin on the luff of mainsail to easehoisting. Sail tape should be applied to bat-ten pockets where it hits shrouds to avoidchafe. Always fold your jib and store it inthe envelope bar or roll it - DO NOT JUSTSTUFF IT IN BAG. Roll your main front thethird batten (from top) to your boom andstore in long boom bag. Storing your sailswill greatly lengthen their life. Rinse thefresh water whenever possible.

NOTE: Howe and Bainbridge, Inc., the man-ufacturers of our sail cloth have sent us thefollowing memo which we felt was importantenough to pass on to you.-- To prevent color transfer on your sails, drythem as thoroughly as possible after using.Try not to store wet in sailbag for any longerperiods of time than necessary.

When either dyed nylon or dacron sailfabrics are stored wet, the color will bleed ortransfer form the colored to the white oreven from a darker shade to a lighter shade.The wetter and more compressed the fabric,the greater the bleeding - such as stuffed ina sailbag. --

Outhaul SystemThe Prindle 18-2 and 19 boom is equippedwith an internal 4:1 outhaul system withshock cord load return. Shock cord tensioncan be tightened simply by pulling somecorder out of the boom at the front end of

tieing a new know. DO NOT LET THE SHOCKCORD GO! To relead the shock cord youmust disassemble the entire aft end of theboom. DO NOT REMOVE the small clevis pinin the outhaul car unless you need to removethe internal workings of the outhaul system.

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SECTION V: TUNING FOR PERFORMANCE

Mast Rake:To measure the amount of mast rake, yourmast must be up with your rig tension snug.Lay a carpenter’s level on the trampoline justaft of the hatch. Adjust the boat until it islevel fore and aft and relatively level fromside to side. Attach a one or two poundweight (a heavy wrench will work) onto themain halyard. Using the main halyard as aplumb, measure the distance from the aftedge of the mast at the black band to thecenter of the plumb. This distance is howmuch mast rake you have. We recommendbetween six and ten inches of aft rake. Youmay find that you prefer slightly less ormore.

MAST ROTATIONThe Prindle 15 and 18 come equipped stan-dard with an adjustable mast rotation control(wishbone device on the mast). For mostsailing this rotation should be set between60 and 75 degrees from straight back. Agood rule of thumb is to have the wishbonepointing at the shroud when you are sailingto weather. As you ease the traveler out,the rotation will automatically increase sothat it should be between 80 and 100degrees for downwind sailing. When sailingto weather, an increase in rotation will flattenthe mainsail and less rotation will make themainsail fuller.

BARBERHAULERA barberhauler sys-tem works like atraveler for the jiband is used forbroad reaching anddownwind sailing.It is optional equip-ment. This systemis generally used toget that “extraedge” while racingand is not neces-sary for pleasuresailing. The bar-berhauler will pullthe clew of the jibout to the end of

the front crossbar which will give it a slightlybetter shape and make it easier to trimproperly.

FOUR-WAY JIB SYSTEMThe optional four-way jib system has a fewbasic positions and infinite options inbetween. Use these basic guidelines to dis-cover your preferences.

The four and aft track:Set at center position for light to medium

air.Set at aft position for heavy air.

To side to side lead:Set at 8” inboard in light air.Move position outboard as wind picks up until lead is about 2 to 5 inches inboard when you are a little overpowered.

You may find in certain downwind conditionsthat having the barberhauler (option andseperate from the four-way jib system) allthe way out is too far for proper wind flow.In medium to heavy conditions setting thebarber 8 to 15 inches from fully outboard isoptimum.

SECTION VI:SUPPLEMENTAL INFORMATION

GLOSSARY OF TERMS

Aft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . toward or near the rear part of the boatAsymmetrical . . . . not symmetrical. On Prindle hulls - flat on one side, curved on the otherBatten. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . thin, narrow strip of material used to stiffen the shape of a sailBeat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . to sail to windwardBlock . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . roller or pulleyBoom. . . . . . . . aluminum tube that holds the foot of the mainsail and attaches to the mastBow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . the forward part of the hullCapsize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . to turn the boat overCleat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . device which secures a line or rope by jamming or tying offClew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . lower, rear corner of sailClosed Hauled. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . sailing close to the eye of the windCrossbar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . aluminum tube connecting two sides togetherCurf . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . grove in boom, mast or crossbarDiamond Wire . . . . . . . . . . . wire that attaches to mast and spreader to control mast bendDownhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . line used to pull down the tack of a sailDownwind. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . sailing away from the windEye of the Wind . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . exact direction the wind is blowing fromFoot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . bottom edge of sailFore & Aft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . from the bow to the sternForestay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . forward wire supporting mastGooseneck . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . fitting connecting the boom to the mastGrommet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . metal ring set into a sailGudgeon. . . . . . . . . . fitting bolted through transom of hull for attaching the rudder systemHalyard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . line or wire used to hoist and lower sailHarness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . a support worn while hooked to trapeze wireHead. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . top of sailHead Off . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . to steer the boat away from the windHead to Wind . . . . . . also referred to as “in irons” - pointing the bows directly into the windHead Up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . to steer the boat into the windHelm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . tiller which controls the ruddersHike . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . to position weight as far as possible to windwardHoist . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . to pull upIn Irons. . . . . . . . . . heading directly into the eye of the wind, unable to tack or go forwardJibe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . also gybe, to change course of boat without tackingLee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . side falling away from the windLeech . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . back edge of sailLee Helm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . tendency of boat to turn away from the windLeeward . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . side away from the windLine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ropeLoose Footed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . mainsail not held to a boom for its entire lengthLuff . . . . . . . . . . . leading edge of sail, or flagging of sails due to improper trim or headingMast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . aluminum tube used to support sailsMast Rake . . positioning the top of the mast fore and aft in relation to straight up and downOuthaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . system used to pull clew of mainsail away from the mastPintel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . pin which holds rudder casting onto gudgeonsPort . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . the left sideReaching. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . to sail across the direction of the windReefing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . to reduce sail area

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Rigging. . . . . . . . . . lines, wires and spars used for support and operation of mast and sailsRudder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . wing shaped devies used to steer the boatShackle . . . . . . “U” shaped fitting with removable pin used to fasten lines or parts togetherSheaves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . roller or pulleySheet. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . lines used to control sailsShroud . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . wires on each side of boat supporting the mastSpreader . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . strut projecting from side of mast to brace diamond wireStarboard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . the right sideStern . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . back of hullTack. . . . . . . . . . . . to turn the bow by having the bows cross through the eye of the wind,

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . or lower forward control of the sailTell Tale. . short pieces of ribbon or yarn attached to sail or rigging for reading wind directionTiller Extension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . device which controls rudder steeringTrampoline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . material stretched between hulls and crossbars to sit onTransom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . aft most end of the boatTraveler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . “car” which rolls width of rear crossbarTrim. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . to adjust sheet tension, or to balance hulls in water

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . so they function to maximum efficiencyTurnbuckle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . threaded fitting for adjusting wire lengthUpwind . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . to sail into the windWeather . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . to sail to windwardWindward . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . side toward the wind

GLOSSARY OF KNOTS

Figure eight

Reef knot or square knot

Cleat half hitch

Two half hitches Double overhand knot

Bowline

Truckers hitch

40

Masthead Head

Mast

Diamond Wire

Luff

Leach

Batten

Mainsail

ClewBoom

Rudders

Mainsheet

TransomRear Crossbar

Trapeze WireShroudKeel

Waterline

Bow

Tack

Front Crossbar

Jib (16 & 18)

Forestay

Spreader (18)

FootTiller

38