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Debunking the mythology surrounding diamonds and helping you choose jewellery that you’ll treasure forever Introducing the IQ Diamond®: Kind not Mined Jewellery Jason and Elaine Foreman

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Page 1: Introducing the IQ Diamond® - County Wedding Magazines · Cubic Zirconia – a cubic crystalline form of zirconium dioxide – is another diamond alternative that is widely used

Debunking the mythology surrounding diamonds and helping you choose jewellery that you’ll treasure forever

Introducing the IQ Diamond®: Kind not Mined Jewellery

Jason and Elaine Foreman

Page 2: Introducing the IQ Diamond® - County Wedding Magazines · Cubic Zirconia – a cubic crystalline form of zirconium dioxide – is another diamond alternative that is widely used

Debunking the mythology surrounding diamonds and helping you choose jewellery that you’ll treasure forever

Introducing the IQ Diamond®: Kind not Mined Jewellery

Jason and Elaine Foreman

Page 3: Introducing the IQ Diamond® - County Wedding Magazines · Cubic Zirconia – a cubic crystalline form of zirconium dioxide – is another diamond alternative that is widely used

Copyright©2012 Jason and Elaine Foreman

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise without the prior permission of the author(s).

Edited by Tom Stevenson.

ContentsIntroduction. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

The anatomy of a diamond. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

“What is an IQ Diamond®?” . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

The diamond mythology. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22

Diamond Mining and the Environment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40

What is a blood diamond? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53

Environmental Concerns about Canadian Diamonds . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61

How the IQ Diamond® benefits the environment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66

The perfect setting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69

Choice for the IQ Diamond® . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69

Conclusion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77

About KinetIQue: Kind Not Mined Jewellery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81

Jaymark
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Jaymark
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Page 4: Introducing the IQ Diamond® - County Wedding Magazines · Cubic Zirconia – a cubic crystalline form of zirconium dioxide – is another diamond alternative that is widely used

Introduction

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IntroDuCtIonIntroDuCtIon

This isn’t intended to encourage you to forsake beautiful

jewellery in favour of cheap-looking fakes – quite the opposite!

As you will see, technology has improved to the extent that

hybrid diamonds – manmade stones based on the process

that creates natural diamonds – are virtually indistinguishable

from the ‘real thing’ and in many cases offer a level of brilliance

that regular diamonds, bought for the same price, are unable

to match.

Perhaps you’re looking for the perfect engagement ring…

Perhaps you’re looking for some jewels to wear as an alternative

to your family’s treasured heirlooms… Perhaps you’d just like

to give yourself a special treat! Whatever the reason you’re

shopping for diamonds, the pages that follow will equip you

with all the knowledge you need to choose jewellery that

looks stunning, has been created through ethical means and

will last a lifetime.

Jason and Elaine Foreman

KinetIQue Jewellery

Diamonds possess a unique kind of mystique. As the famous

advertising slogan says, “A Diamond is Forever”. Diamond

jewellery is gifted to us at the most significant moments of

our lives and is often passed on to future generations of our

families.

But this mystique comes at a price, as there are a great number

of misconceptions about diamonds and the diamond industry.

Consumers are increasingly concerned about the effect their

purchases have around the world, and are looking to ensure

that any money that they spend is encouraging just and fair

trade, together with awareness for environmental damage

through the products that they buy.

We believe that the time is particularly right for a socially

responsible diamond alternative company.

That’s why we wrote this book. In the pages that follow, you’ll

learn exactly why diamonds cost what they do, the reality

of where they come from, and (most importantly) the most

stunning and closest alternative currently available on the

market to mined diamonds – the IQ Diamond®.

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The anatomy of a diamond

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the anatomy of a DIamonDthe anatomy of a DIamonD

atoms and molecules. Another form of pure carbon is graphite,

but its atoms are held together in sheets rather than rigidly

attached in a crystal, so the carbon sloughs off easily, such as

at the tip of a pencil.

Despite the uniqueness of their structure, diamonds are not

really significantly different to other forms of carbon, such as

graphite (which is actually more stable than diamond!). Indeed,

diamonds will actually convert back to graphite over a very

long period of time.

Although diamond is technically the hardest naturally occurring

mineral, its actual toughness is only fair at best and it possesses

a cleavage plane that allows it to be cut. This is important as

rough diamonds require skilful cutting before they can be

used as jewellery. This process reduces the diamond’s size by as

much as 50%, but is responsible for the much-coveted sparkle

that all great diamonds possess. The diamond is carefully cut

using specialist tools and then polished to minimise any flaws

while allowing more light to pass through it.

Ask yourself this – “What is a diamond?” Despite the fact

that we’re willing to invest so much money in them, most

of us would struggle to answer this question.

Diamond is a form of carbon, with the atoms bound together in

a face-centred cubic lattice structure also known as tetrahedral

SP3 bonding that gives diamond its strength and special

optical properties.

This unique structure is created through very specific conditions.

Carbon-bearing materials must be exposed to high pressure,

typically between 45 and 60 kilobars (4.5 and 6 GPa), at a

temperature range of around 900–1300°C (1652–2372°F). These

conditions occur naturally in two different ways. First of all, in

the lithospheric mantle, below relatively stable continental

plates. Second, at the sites of meteor strikes. While the second

is rather rare, the first one occurs in many places throughout

the world, so diamonds are in plentiful supply (although most

people remain unaware of this, as we’ll see later in this book).

So, diamond is simply a crystalline form of pure carbon, just as

a ‘stick of rock’ candy is crystallised sugar – an ordered array of

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“What is an IQ Diamond®?”

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“What Is an IQ DIamonD®?”“What Is an IQ DIamonD®?”

of the IQ Diamond®, (the scale of 1-10 used to determine the

hardness and scratch resistance of gemstones, 10 being the

hardest).

As a result, the IQ Diamond® is visually identical to a highest

quality mined diamond.

Expert Gemologists have been genuinely astonished at how the

IQ Diamond® “draws the fire” in just the same way a superlative

mined diamond does. Even with their expert eyes, there is no

way to tell the difference between the two.

The Evans Analytical Group – the world’s top materials

characterisation and surface analysis lab – confirmed this in

a series of intensive tests using state-of-the-art equipment.

They discovered that the IQ Diamond®’s surface did indeed

display all the properties of a mined diamond and would

always test positive for diamond. They also carried out Raman

Spectroscopic analysis, which produced the characteristic

Raman Shift Spike for diamond at 1,332cm-1 (see below). The

only thing that would confirm it isn’t a naturally grown diamond

is its limited conductivity – the result of copper and titanium

The IQ Diamond® is also known as a Hybrid Diamond. It’s

not a fake, but it’s not a naturally occurring diamond either.

Rather than being grown naturally in the Earth’s mantle and

mined, it is manmade – with a layer of pure diamond grown

around a high-tech ceramic core, with an almost identical

refractive index to diamond. The different shapes of the IQ

Diamond® have the finest cuts available and all of their facets

are perfectly proportioned. This is why the IQ Diamond®

looks as good as the finest diamonds available and why

no-one can visually tell the difference between them. It is

also naturally coloured, unlike many other artificially-grown

stones, such as Cubic Zirconia and Moissanite (which we’ll

discuss in detail later).

The IQ Diamond®’s surface is composed of carbon atoms, bound

together in a tetrahedral lattice structure. This tetrahedral

arrangement of carbon atoms called SP3 Bonding is identical

to natural diamond and it’s this distinctive structure – referred

to as a face-centred cubic lattice – that gives the diamond its

unique optical and physical properties. For example, diamond’s

hardness is rated at 10 on the Mohs scale, as is the outer layer

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“What Is an IQ DIamonD®?”“What Is an IQ DIamonD®?”

Not only does it look great, it’ll stay that way. Many of the fake

diamonds we buy are actually made of a porous crystal that

will absorb oil and dirt throughout the day, eventually losing

their lustre and developing a milky-looking surface. They also

don’t score highly on the Mohs scale, and will scratch, tarnish

and dull easily. The IQ Diamond®, on the other hand, will last

a lifetime, just as a mined diamond would.

“But aren’t there already plenty of diamond alternatives available?”It’s true that there are already several stones available that are

used as a less expensive substitute for diamonds, but they

simply can’t compare to the real thing.

These substitutes are often referred to as diamond simulants,

diamond veneer, amorphous diamond and other branded

names. There is generally a lot of fogginess around the

‘diamond simulant/alternative’ market, which has led to a

great deal of confusion for people seeking an alternative to

mined diamonds.

implanted during its creation for ethical reasons (as per the

GIA requirements), to ensure no-one can attempt to pass it

off as the ‘real thing’ or misvalue it.

Mined Diamond (upper) IQ Diamond® (lower) both showing a spike at 1,332cm-1 indicating the presence of the SP3 diamond bonds.

1332

1326

1200 1400 1600

DOS

Ozon (30 nm)Inte

nsity

(a.u

.)

Raman shift (cm-1)

sp2

sp2

F4

3-rd order of Si

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“What Is an IQ DIamonD®?”“What Is an IQ DIamonD®?”

soft and porous stone, so it will start looking old and worn

out very quickly, no matter how attractive it looked when

you bought it.

Another common diamond alternative is Moissanite – silicon

carbide. This is a naturally-occurring compound that is actually

rarer than real diamonds! It was originally discovered in a

meteor crater in 1893 and initially mistaken for a diamond.

Nowadays they are usually created using a similar process

to the synthetic diamonds that are cultivated in laboratories

(more on those later).

In terms of colour, clarity and hardness, it is very close to a real

diamond, scoring I-K for colour, VS for clarity and 9.25 on the

Mohs scale, placing it second to diamond in terms of hardness.

Unfortunately, Moissanite displays a slight yellow-green or

greyish tint and often appears ‘fuzzy’ due to double refraction,

even if they’ve been specially cut to minimise this. This rather

spoils the effect, despite their many positive qualities.

For example, Diamond-Like Carbon (or DLC), as the name

implies, is a blend of differing forms of crystallised carbons that

possesses some of the valuable properties of diamond. The

‘diamond-like’ coating – referred to as ‘amorphous carbon’ – is

a blend of different forms of carbon, from diamond to graphite.

When a stone is coated with amorphous carbon, the coating

must be exceedingly thin as to be essentially non-existent;

otherwise, the stone would be discoloured, leaving it with a

grey look.

DLC is commonly used in products such as razors and cutting

tools rather than jewellery and has been around for many

years. To be clear, most of these stones are not marketed as

DLC but marketed as something less accurate, so as to not

give too much away.

Cubic Zirconia – a cubic crystalline form of zirconium dioxide –

is another diamond alternative that is widely used by jewellers.

In many ways it is ideal for use in jewellery. It is very durable,

relatively inexpensive and optically flawless – not unlike a

high-quality diamond. However, it often has a fake and glassy

look as a result of its subtle bluish tint. Furthermore, it is a very

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“What Is an IQ DIamonD®?”“What Is an IQ DIamonD®?”

Africa (later renamed Kimberley). It wasn’t long before more

diamonds were found, and a ‘tent town’ sprang up as diggers

sought to take advantage of the area that was eventually

dubbed ‘New Rush’.

It was the arrival of Cecil B. Rhodes in 1874 that initiated the

birth of the diamond industry as we know it today. Rhodes

was an Oxford student who had been sent to South Africa by

his father in an attempt to expose him to a healthier climate.

After an unsuccessful attempt at farming, his foray into digging

made him financially independent at the young age of 19. By

1880, Rhodes had established a company to manage the large

number of mines he had acquired, as well as buying out the

De Beers brothers’ claim in the area, leading to the creation

of De Beers Consolidated Mines. Despite having started the

diamond rush, the brothers would have no further involvement

in the company that bore their name.

As it was, large-scale mining was impossible at that time and

small claimholders were soon forced to band together, renting

out equipment together and co-operating in the steadily

expanding operation. Throughout the next 43 years, the so-

“But are diamonds really that valuable?”

You’re probably wondering why something visually and

functionally identical to a natural diamond can be sold for

so much less. The common answer to this question is that

natural diamonds are extremely scarce, hence the high prices

they command. But if scarcity is such an important part of

the diamond’s appeal, then why on earth are stones such as

rubies and sapphires (which are actually significantly scarcer

than diamonds) not considered more desirable?

Diamonds are undoubtedly objects of great beauty, but what is

it about them that really justifies the huge amounts of money

we pay for them (even for mediocre ones)? Put simply, very

little…

The perceived rarity of diamonds is in fact a fallacy, brought

about through clever marketing. Although it’s true that

diamonds were extremely rare for a number of centuries,

to the extent that even monarchs struggled to obtain them,

this all changed in 1871, when a small diamond was found

near the home of the De Beer brothers in Vooruizicht, South

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“What Is an IQ DIamonD®?”“What Is an IQ DIamonD®?”

They’ve even placed a ban on trading in diamonds, as this

would require them to create an extra degree of transparency,

leading to their value being significantly reduced, to the extent

it would lead to the collapse of the diamond industry.

Marketing has played a major part in the continued success

of this arrangement (think back to the “A Diamond Is Forever”

slogan we mentioned at the very beginning of this book).

Indeed, during the 1930’s, De Beers made a concerted effort to

get diamond rings on the fingers of every Hollywood starlet!

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called ‘Big Hole’ got bigger and bigger, to the extent that it is

now 463 metres wide and 215 metres deep. Once overground

operations became too dangerous, the diggers switched to

underground mining at a depth of 1,097 metres. This was the

birth of modern strip mining in the diamond industry.

Rhodes consolidated his position by purchasing any diamond

deposits owned by his rivals and taking control of all distribution

channels through The Diamond Syndicate – a London-based

coalition of merchants who shared his goal of high prices

and perceived scarcity when it came to their products. The

Syndicate agreed to regulate the supply of exported diamonds

by making regular purchases of a fixed number of diamonds at

a fixed price – an arrangement that has continued to this day.

Ten times a year, 160 select distributors (referred to as ‘sight

holders’) purchase boxes – literally a shoebox full of rough

diamonds from the De Beers company (now based in

Luxembourg), with no haggling allowed and no opportunity

to re-sell the rough diamonds. As a result of this arrangement,

the company controls between 60 and 75% of the world’s

diamond trade; free to sell them for whatever price they choose.

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“What Is an IQ DIamonD®?”

Many of their adverts would go on to run for decades and

firmly cement the idea of diamonds being a rare commodity;

one that evokes feelings of romance and glamour in the

public’s mind.

As a result of this, most people are happy to accept the high

mark-up on diamonds as they genuinely believe they are a

scarcer commodity than other gemstones.

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The diamond mythology

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the DIamonD mythologythe DIamonD mythology

� They are extremely rare. Nonsense! Not only are diamonds

in plentiful supply in numerous different parts of the world,

there are warehouses full of them waiting to be sold. The

perceived rarity is only due to a conscious decision to

restrict the market supply, playing on diamonds’ scarcity

several hundred years ago.

� Diamonds make a good investment. Many people

purchase diamonds on the assumption that they are a

sound investment that will pay off in the future. However,

as a result of clever pricing tactics, this is far from the case.

There are warehouses in multiple countries “filled to the

brim” with diamonds, but only a limited amount are sold

each a year, to purposefully drive the price up and make

more money. Unless you have a really special “one of a

kind” stone, worth millions, then they are definitely not a

good investment.

Some of the deliberately-created myths surrounding

diamonds include…

� They are particularly difficult to mine. They are in fact

no more difficult to mine than any other gemstone.

Technology has dramatically reduced the amount of hard

manual labour involved, so there are very few specialist

skills involved in their extraction. Interestingly, diamonds

are now being dredged en masse from the seabed along

the Namibian coastline in South Africa.

� They are unbreakable. Although they are the hardest

naturally occurring substance, they are very brittle and can

break easily on four different planes. Furthermore, they

are not physically difficult to cut (although the process

does require a high degree of skill). While diamond may

be the hardest naturally occurring substance, there are

manmade materials that are harder, and also easy to

come by.

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the DIamonD mythologythe DIamonD mythology

does not reflect its actual worth. Furthermore, many

jewellers receive their stock on consignment from

wholesalers, who will not require them to pay until the

jewellery is actually sold and so will be reluctant to risk their

own cash by buying used diamonds. As a result of this,

many people seeking to sell their jewellery find themselves

being bounced between different firms until they grow so

frustrated with the process that they either keep the

jewellery or reluctantly accept a price that’s significantly

lower than what they were expecting.

Did you realise that as soon as you have bought a diamond,

it is worth up to 70% less? Imagine you’ve just bought a

diamond for £5,000 – as soon as you have taken it out of the

shop its worth has fallen to £2,000 or less. This is because of

the tremendous mark-up made on each stone and the fact

that diamonds aren’t nearly as rare as we have been led to

believe. In addition, the jeweller has no incentive to buy back

your diamond if they are supplied with their diamonds on a

consignment basis. In black and white terms, ordinary mined

diamonds have absolutely no investment value whatsoever.

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he huge mark-up on diamonds can make reselling them

extremely difficult, as jewellers are reluctant to offer a price

that they know the customer would find insulting and alert

them to fact that the high price they paid for their diamond

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the DIamonD mythologythe DIamonD mythology

serious alternative that sells for a price that reflects its true

market value.

The Four Cs – the key elements of an incredible diamondThere are four elements that make for a great diamond, whether

it’s mined or not. We call them ‘The Four Cs’…

The Cut

Any diamond must be skilfully cut if it is to reflect and refract

light in the way we expect it to. The better the quality of the

cut, the more of that much-treasured sparkle and brilliance the

diamond will possess. The cut is the absolute most important

part of any diamond because that is what determines how

much light comes back at you from the stone. It can also

compensate for lower grades in clarity and colour, allowing

the diamond to still have a good degree of sparkle.

The quality of a diamond’s cut is rated according to the following

scale…

The valuation you receive is for insurance purposes only.

There’s no doubt that a finely-cut diamond is an object of

exquisite beauty, but that does not justify the vastly inflated

prices they are sold for. Remember, it’s the memories we

attach to our jewellery that gives it its special significance, not

what we originally paid for it. When you eventually pass your

engagement ring onto your children, for instance, they won’t

want to know what you originally paid for it – they’ll just see

it as a beautiful family heirloom. Consider this when you next

go shopping for jewellery, as the IQ Diamond® represents a

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the DIamonD mythologythe DIamonD mythology

the cut is “Good” – as advertised – the truth is that these will

not be well cut diamonds.

The absolute finest cut is the Hearts and Arrows Ideal Cut

diamond, which accounts for around 2% of the naturally mined

diamonds in the world. Even compared to the exceptional

beauty of an Ideal Cut Standard diamond, the level of polish

and shine is truly breathtaking. Unsurprisingly, these diamonds

retail for an incredible amount of money.

The IQ Diamond® is Ideal Cut by hand with Hearts and Arrows Symmetry.

Ideal/Excellent – Hearts and Arrows

The greatest possible level of brilliance. All light that passes through the diamond is reflected, leading to stunning, sparkling effect.

Very Good Not as well cut – perhaps the facets are very slightly non-uniform. Light is reflected back but the diamond appears less brilliant than an Ideal Cut and they are priced slightly lower.

Good (as advertised) The cut is usually much less perfect than an Ideal Cut diamond. There is usually a very broad range of cut quality that is advertised as Good and the brilliance tends to be mediocre. This is due to light escaping from the facets giving the diamonds less fire and sparkle.

Fair and Poor The cut quality is below average leading to a significant amount of light escaping from its facets. This gives the diamond a very dull, lifeless appearance with very little sparkle. You will most likely never see this grading in a jeweller’s shop.

You may have noticed that the cut quality listed as “Good”

will appear on many of the average cut diamonds available.

The names of these grades are somewhat misleading – after

all, poorly cut diamonds would not sell if their cut was more

transparently advertised as “Poor/Fair”. This is just a little

marketing on the part of the diamond industry. Although

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the DIamonD mythologythe DIamonD mythology

When we’re talking about clarity in a diamond, we mean the

absence of inclusions – naturally occurring flaws, blemishes and

birthmarks. No diamonds are completely without inclusions,

but those with few to no visible flaws receive high clarity grades.

The clarity of a diamond is graded according to the following

scale from The Geological Institute of America (GIA)…

Flawless (FL) No inclusions of blemishes visible up to 10x magnification.

Internally Flawless (IF)

As above, but some small blemishes on the diamond’s surface which might be removed with careful polishing of the stone’s surface.

Very, Very Slightly Included (VVS)

Some small inclusions that a skilled grader will struggle to spot under 10x magnification. Subdivided into VVS1 and VVS2.

Very Slightly Included (VS)

Minor inclusions that are easier to spot by a skilled grader when using 10x magnification. Such inclusions will not usually be visible to the naked eye. Subdivided into VS1 and VS2 grades.

Slightly Included (SI)

The inclusions are very easy for a trained grader to spot using 10x magnification. Such inclusions are more likely to be visible without the need for magnification. Subdivided into SI1 and SI2 grades.

Included (I) The inclusions are visible without magnification and may threaten the structural integrity of the diamond, causing it to break. Subdivided into I1, I2 and I3 grades.

The IQ Diamond® with the Hearts and Arrows:

Hearts and Arrows are cut to Ideal proportions, with superior optical symmetry and a specific faceting pattern. This results in a repeatable, near perfect pattern of eight symmetrical arrows in the face up position and eight symmetrical hearts when viewed in the table down position.

The Clarity

The clarity of a diamond is a major factor in determining its

worth, as well as its brilliance.

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the DIamonD mythologythe DIamonD mythology

clarity is enhanced to make it look more like a VS1/VS2. That is,

a diamond of much higher apparent value, appearing much

clearer than it actually is. The flaws are still present but are not

visible. It is a “fairly worthless” stone, marketed and sold as if it

possesses greater value. Should a clarity-enhanced stone be

knocked, it could cleave (split into two), depending on where

the fracture plane is and its length.

Exposed to heat, the silicone filler turns milky. Any repair

requiring the use of a gas blowtorch will leave your clarity-

enhanced diamond with very obvious large milky spots on the

inside. This happened to us in our younger years with a clarity-

enhanced diamond that was not declared as such. Needless

to say, it was quite a shock to us, as well as the jeweller, when

the ring came back following a repair; the diamond had milk

bubbles in it!

Jewellers selling clarity-enhanced diamonds should advertise

them as such, since they are selling a very sub-standard stone

that appears to be of higher value. They also should advise of

the risks of purchasing them.

Clarity Enhancement. Something to be wary of…

A word of warning about these types of diamonds, gained

from our own experience. Clarity-enhanced diamonds are

mined diamonds which are flawed, sometimes quite heavily

so, meaning, they are of the poorest quality. Consequently

they seem to be great value, since they are sold for much less

in relation to other diamonds of the same size.

This should set alarm bells ringing since they are not what they

seem… Clarity enhancement is a process where flaws (internal

imperfections) are artificially filled with silicone. The filler is

optically neutral and very hard to spot, even when magnified.

A clarity-enhanced diamond could start off with a clarity rating

of an I3, i.e. a very poor quality stone, with a large number

of inclusions, but by filling these fractures with silicone, the

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The average grade tends to be J, which is fairly clear, but with a

subtle yellowish tint. A 1ct diamond would still cost you £1,000

or more, even though it isn’t really a top-rated diamond…

The Carat

Carat weight determines the weight of the diamond, although

bear in mind that this figure does not take size and shape

into account – two diamonds that appear identical may have

different carat weights due to their depth.

Carat weight is expressed as a decimal or fraction. The greater

the carat weight, the more expensive the diamond will be,

although bear in mind that this doesn’t necessarily make it

better. When choosing jewellery, your considerations should

be based on hand size, budget, setting and personal style

Unfortunately, jewellers selling clarity-enhanced diamonds

rarely point out the potential issues that surround these types

of stones. Instead they will focus on their perceived benefits,

avoiding any counter benefits altogether in order to get a sale.

If a large stone seems to be too good to be true in terms of

cost when its clarity seems good, then it is very likely to be a

clarity-enhanced diamond. We would not advocate purchasing

clarity-enhanced stones.

The Colour

What we’re actually talking about here is in actual fact, the

lack of colour. Natural diamonds, like any type of crystal, vary

enormously in terms of their colour. The less coloured they

are, the higher their cost. Colour in a diamond is rated on a

scale of D-Z, with D being the lowest colouration and Z the

highest. A diamond that is more coloured will affect how the

light appears when it sparkles.

A D-F graded diamond would be virtually colourless (even the

G-I graded ones will appear colourless to the naked eye), while

the bottom-graded diamonds would be light yellow in colour.

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to begin with and that you’ll take pride and pleasure in for the

rest of your life.

The good news is that the IQ Diamond® ticks all these boxes!

In terms of its cut, it is cut to Ideal/Excellent proportions in the

finest Hearts and Arrows symmetry, while it is rated Internally

Flawless in terms of its clarity and E-F in terms of its colour,

capturing the light in a way that equals the very finest of natural

diamonds. As a result of this, it has made a diamond of such

quality that it would previously have only have been available

to the extremely wealthy and not affordable for the rest of us.

As they are sold without the mark-up associated with mined

diamonds, there’s no need to compromise when it comes to

choosing a stone you’ll love wearing for the rest of your life.

Furthermore, the money you save can be invested in the

diamond’s setting, so you can choose a gold or platinum band

that does justice to the quality of the stone.

rather than just opting for the biggest, most expensive one

you can find.

To summarise…

It’s important that you understand these four different

elements when looking for diamond jewellery. Too few

people spend time researching diamond quality and what

they need to look for. They’ll visit a jeweller and naively trust

the advice they are given leading to disappointment in size,

quality, or both, given what they can afford. In a worst case

scenario, people buying diamond jewellery without the

proper knowledge can be sold a very poor quality diamond,

spending thousands for it, but not really understanding what

they have purchased.

We are all tempted to cut corners and save a little money, but

if the diamond is for something like an engagement ring that

you’ll be wearing for the rest of your life, do you really want to

be looking at a sub-par stone fifty years on? The longer you

wear it, the more you and others will notice its imperfections.

It would be better if you find a diamond that’s perfect for you

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There’s simply nothing else available that can compete with

the IQ Diamond® in terms of value for money.

We compared an 18 carat gold solitaire 1 carat diamond ring of a similar style, using ten online UK diamond retailers, entering the same credentials that match the IQ Diamond in terms of the Cut, Clarity & Colour.

We searched for an excellent cut, internally flawless with an F colour.

The average cost was £15,600.

We did the same comparison, but this time searching for a low quality diamond, with a below average cut, colour and clarity.

“How much can I save?”

A lot! Just have a look at the chart below…

IQ Diamond® Superior quality mined diamond

Average quality mined diamond

Moissanite Cubic Zirconia

1 carat diamond with 18 carat gold ring

Approx. £1,000 Approx. £15,600 Approx. £4,350 Approx. £500 Not available.

Actual diamond content

Yes Yes Yes No No

Hardness 10 Mohs (surface) 10 Mohs 10 Mohs 9.25 Mohs 8 Mohs

Colour F (natural white) F (natural white) G-H (yellow tint)

I-K (grey/yellow tint)

D-F (blue tint)

Cut Ideal/Excellent, Hearts and Arrows, cut by hand

Ideal/Excellent

Cut by hand

Good Cut to compensate for the double refraction

Varies

Clarity IF (internally flawless)

IF (internally flawless)

SI2 (inclusions visible)

VS1 to VS2 IF to VVS2

Tests Shows a positive diamond signature under Raman spectroscopy.

Can test positive for diamond.

Tracer added to prevent this for ethical reasons.

Tests positive on all diamond tests.

Tests positive on all diamond tests.

Tests positive on thermal diamond testing machines.

Differentiated by double refractivity & specific Moissanite testers.

Will test negative on all diamond tests.

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the DIamonD mythology

We searched for a ‘good’ cut, as advertised as such… retailers would not sell these diamonds very easily if they advertised them as ‘poor cut’, an SI2 clarity – that means it is very flawed, and an H colour, giving a slight yellow appearance.

These graded diamonds will be disappointing if you are looking for a lovely sparkly stone that has a great depth and intensity. They will be dull and lifeless due to the poor cut, flaws and yellow hue.

The average cost was £4,350.

The IQ Diamond shares the same credentials as the £15,600 diamond ring with incredible scintillation and fire.

A 1Ct IQ diamond set in 18ct gold costs around £1,000 including VAT and is guaranteed for life.

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Diamond mining and the environment

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There are three types of large-scale mining operation:

Strip mining (open pits)

In strip mining, all the soil and rocks that overlay the mineral

deposit (in this case, the diamond-bearing kimberlite) are

removed altogether, leaving an open pit from which the

mineral can be extracted. This often requires large walls to be

built in order to divert the natural flow of water. As a result of

such practices, whole lakes and ecosystems can be completely

removed from the local landscape, with the scars left visible

from space on certain occasions.

Underground mining

In underground mining, the top layer is left intact, and access

to the mineral deposit is achieved through the use of tunnels.

The land surrounding these mines is usually developed in

such a way as to destroy huge areas of fragile eco-systems

and disturb natural wildlife habitats. For example, Canadian

Diamonds are advertised as conflict free and extolled as

consumer friendly. This is misleading information supplied

to consumers. Several different organisations have reported

I n other words, what we call the Fifth ‘C’. That’s C for Conflict.

Conflict to Man, Environment and the Eco-System.

More and more of us are becoming concerned about the

environment. We recycle our rubbish; we work to reduce our

carbon footprint; we look for eco-friendly alternatives when

we’re out shopping… But how many of us consider where our

diamonds come from, and the impact getting them from the

mine onto our fingers is having on the environment?

Large-scale mining

Any large-scale mining operation is going to have an impact

on the local environment. The strict regulations necessary, if

ecological disasters are to be avoided, are sadly lacking.

Consider this – it requires, on average, the excavation of 250

tons of rock to produce a single carat during a mining operation.

How can any process that involves this kind of change to

the landscape ever be truly sustainable and environmentally

friendly?

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Artisanal/small-scale & Alluvial mining operationsArtisanal and small-scale miners are estimated to produce

20-25% of all non-fuel minerals worldwide. The value of their

contribution is hardly matched by what they gain from their

livelihood. It is estimated that there are about one million

diggers in Africa who earn less than a £1 a day from mining

diamonds, depriving them of the ability to pay for basic

requirements like water and sanitation.

These methods of mining have a lower environmental impact,

yet are extremely labour intensive, with workers using simple

shovels and sieves to pan through rivers. Such mining operations

have resulted in serious human rights abuses.

Diamonds also accumulate in rivers and lakebeds over thousands

of years as a result of sediment and erosion, moving them from

their original kimberlite pipes. These operations – referred to

as Alluvial mines – scrape away 3.3 million cubic yards of soil

and plant life per day and large walls are built to divert the

natural flow of water, leading to considerable damage to the

local eco-system and the habitats of the local wildlife.

on the irreversible damage to the land, the wildlife and the

indigenous tribes living in the diamond mining regions.

Dredging

Dredging is carried out offshore using a floating processing

vessel and a remotely operated crawler. The crawler digs up the

seabed indiscriminately, whilst the processing vessel handles

the seabed that has been dredged up. Up to 400m3/hour

(that’s approximately 600 tons per hour) of seabed material is

processed. The damage to the seabed is severe and the sea life

that inhabits these areas is destroyed, leading to an uncertain

future for the marine life in that area.

Unfortunately, such large-scale operations are a necessity for

the diamond industry as it stands – a single, one carat diamond

requires 250 tons of ore to be mined. In addition to this, of

the 140 million carats of diamond that are mined each year,

only around 20% will be of sufficient quality to be of use to

jewellers; the rest will be used in industry instead. It’s a terribly

inefficient way of extracting the gemstones, even if one doesn’t

take the environmental impact into account.

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mines is a serious problem here, as it is often significantly

greater than was originally agreed upon.

� The loss of land-based habitats for local wildlife, thus

dramatically reducing biodiversity.

� Increased production of greenhouse gases. Diamond

mines require huge amounts of fuel to run properly. Each

individual mine therefore produces a large amount of

greenhouse gas each year.

� Social impact on local communities, with many people

being forced to relocate due to both health concerns and

the loss of their livelihood.

Exhausted mines

To make matters worse, when a diamond mine has exhausted

all its resources and is to be closed, there is generally little

regulation in place to ensure the local ecosystem is restored

to its former state and allowed to recover. Where diamond

mining has taken place, the districts are left detrimental to the

land and people. There are open pits serving as death traps for

But even with relatively well-regulated diamond mining

operations, such as the ones taking place in Canada (which

we’ll discuss in detail later in the book), the environmental

impact is being felt. The acidic water runoff from mining

operations has a serious impact on local aquatic life – a problem

that is unlikely to ever be fully remedied, although in the

case of Canada, steps have been taken by the government

to minimise the problem. However, agreed levels of these

chemical discharges are being exceeded. In countries that are

not socially or politically stable, where the diamond mining

operations are often run by criminals, warlords and corrupt

politicians (as we’ll discuss in greater depth later), there are

no such regulations and the local communities suffer as a

result of it.

The environmental effects of mining operations can include…

� The draining of lakes, destruction of streams, and changes

in the quality of the water, costing fish their natural habitats.

It’s possible for whole lakes to be permanently ruined or

destroyed altogether in this way. Ammonia discharge from

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When industries like gas and oil are so tightly regulated in

order to minimise their impact on the environment, there is

simply no excuse for the diamond industry – who are trading

in vanity objects, not commodities – to be operating with

such an extraordinary lack of accountability.

This is another reason why the IQ Diamond® is such an ethical

(as well as beautiful!) choice. As it is grown in a lab, there’s no

need for any ore to be extracted from the earth, and thus

absolutely zero impact on the landscape.

Here’s an example to show you the kind of damage we’re

talking about. In the town of Mirny in Eastern Siberia, lies Mirny

Mine – the largest open pit diamond mine in the world and

the world’s second largest excavated hole.

This hole is 525 metres (1,722 ft.) deep and 1,200 metres (3,900

ft.) wide – so big that the airspace above it was closed to

helicopters after several incidents of them being sucked in

by the downward air flow!

these communities, where the land has been deserted and not

reclaimed. The mines are simply abandoned and left to fill up

with mosquito infested polluted water, which causes different

illnesses and where many children drown. Some people will

have no other source of water.

The largest manmade hole ever was a diamond mine that

ended up being 1.25km in diameter and 525m deep before it

was exhausted and closed. It was simply abandoned, with the

local water polluted beyond repair and the land left unsuitable

for future cultivation. Aircraft are not permitted to fly over the

mine due to extreme downdrafts over the pit. So not only is

the environment being damaged – so too are the atmospheric

conditions. This is typical of these very large and deep mines.

Is this sort of large-scale pollution really worth the price of an

engagement ring, or a new set of earrings? It’s become clear

that repairing the damage to the landscape caused by large-

scale mining operations will be difficult if not impossible, so

an alternative source for our jewellery is needed before such

unsustainable practices lead to an environmental disaster.

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Source: Airliners.net Photograph by Jeppe de Boer

SOURCE: Wikipedia Photograph by Vladimir

SOURCE: Wikipedia Photograph by Vladimir

SOURCE: Wikipedia Photograph by Vladimir

SOURCE: Wikipedia

See that arrow on the right about mid-way down? That’s pointing

to a 220-ton hauling truck that’s over 20 feet tall!

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‘seed’, causing layers of carbon to build up in the same way

nature creates a diamond.

This process takes care of most ecological and humanitarian

concerns, but it requires 58,000 atmospheres of pressure

at 1,300 degrees centigrade, and these must be sustained

for long periods of time whilst the diamond crystal grows. If

this energy used in the heating and crystallising of synthetic

diamond can’t be supplied using green methods, then it’s not

environmentally friendly.

Furthermore, they won’t save you nearly as much money as

an IQ Diamond®. A synthetic diamond will generally retail for

around 15% less than a mined one (although the quality is

generally superior), although white synthetic diamonds will

generally cost around the same as their mined counterparts,

due to the extra time and skill involved in their creation.

Although they can certainly be very beautiful, a synthetic

diamond just can’t compete with the IQ Diamond® in terms

of price or eco-friendliness.

“But what about synthetic diamonds? Aren’t they environmentally friendly?”Believe it or not, we actually have the technology to create a

‘real’ diamond in a laboratory, but this is a very different process

to the one used to create the IQ Diamond®. The process involves

the application of intense heat and pressure to a diamond

SOURCE: Wikipedia.

SOURCE: Wikipedia.

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What is a blood diamond?

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It was growing concern in the international community about

the use of blood diamonds to fund terrorists and corrupt

governments that led to the publication of the Fowler Report

in 2000 by the UN Security Council Committee. The report

made clear the ineffectiveness of existing sanctions against

countries where the sale of diamonds was funding illegal

and inhumane activities and recommended the creation of a

process that would make the sale of undocumented diamonds

a criminal offence.

The publication of the Fowler Report led to the creation of

the Kimberley Process (named for the small town that gave

birth to the diamond industry) in 2003 after three years of

negotiation between various NGO, diamond producing

countries and representatives of the diamond industry. This

process was intended to solve the problem of blood diamonds

by monitoring the origins of all diamonds on the consumer

market.

The entire process is voluntary and self-regulating. It requires

the diamond industry to place labels on diamond shipments,

Do you buy Fair-trade goods as often as you can in order

to ensure the people who produced those products

are going to get a fair amount of money for the efforts and

weren’t forced to work in inhumane conditions? Would you

really want to purchase a product, knowing that the money

you’ve paid would be used to fund terrorism, or dictatorial

regimes in other countries? Few of us would and we may

be doing so without ever realising it through the unwitting

purchase of blood diamonds.

A blood diamond is a diamond that originates from any area

in conflict that has reached the shops through unethical

mining practices, with the profits from its sale used to fund

war, terrorism and further human rights abuses.

In the case of small mining operations, referred to as artisanal

mining, where workers dig and sift through river beds with

shovels and similar tools, the environmental impact is not as

great as the large-scale operations we discussed earlier, but

the human cost is often huge.

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� 37% claimed to be aware of the issue of blood diamonds,

although 54% of them offered an inaccurate definition of it

� Only 28% were aware of the Kimberley Process and 29%

of those only had a limited understanding of it at best

� 83% said their customers rarely or never inquired about

blood diamonds

� 110 retailers simply refused to take the survey

A similar study in 2007 found that 56% of jewellers do not

even have an auditing procedure in place to ensure they are

not trading in blood diamonds.

Not much has changed since. Even now, many jewellers still do

not fully understand the Kimberly Process. As highlighted in

the recent Panorama documentary about Mugabe’s Diamonds.

Many jewellers were confused as to what the Kimberly Process

was about and why it was set up. Some even thought that

gold was also monitored by this process.

Although the Kimberley Process was considered to be a

reasonably effective solution to the problem of blood diamonds,

certifying that these diamonds have been mined ethically,

sold and exported through legitimate channels, and will not

be used to fund war or terrorism. In theory, this is meant to

provide a guarantee to buyers that their new diamonds are

not financing human rights violations. Any nation which has

agreed to the Kimberley Process is not permitted to trade with

nations who haven’t.

However, there is still very little actual guidance offered to

the general public to let them know if they are purchasing

blood diamonds and there are obviously no visual clues in the

diamonds themselves that will be an indication. The results of

a 2004 Amnesty International survey, involving 246 different

diamond retailers, certainly make for grim reading…

� Only 27% had a policy on blood diamonds

� 30% said they had a policy on the selling of blood diamonds,

but were unable to produce a hard copy, or even explain

it in certain cases

� Only 13% offered warranties to their customers as standard

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Examples of some of these human rights abusesThe BBC found evidence of such practices continuing as

recently as 2011. Unless dramatic changes are made in the

diamonds’ countries of origin, international law will only go so

far in keeping such practices in check. Some other examples of

human rights abuses associated with diamond mining include…

� Workers in Sierra Leone are forced to pan handle for

diamonds along riverbanks, under threat of torture

and mutilation if they do not cooperate. This has been

going on ever since the Revolutionary United Front (RUF)

seized control of the diamond mines and started doing

everything in their power to deter locals from supporting

the government.

� The San or Bushmen people of the Kalahari in Botswana

were forcibly relocated by their government in order to gain

access to the diamond mines on their land. According to

research by Survival International, Botswana’s government

has deliberately made living conditions on the land

it has proved to be far from infallible. There are simply too many

loopholes and a lack of adequate enforcement is in place. For

example, Zimbabwe’s Marange and Chiadzwa diamond fields

continue to produce diamonds in utterly inhumane conditions,

with children enslaved and forced to work in the mines and

thousands of civilians raped or killed by government troops.

The profits from these diamonds are subsequently used to fund

both the criminals in question and Zimbabwe’s ruling elite.

In addition to the Kimberley Process failing to curtail the flow of

conflict diamonds throughout the world, there is no guarantee

that diamonds with a Kimberley Process Certification are in fact

conflict free. This is due to the nature of the corrupt government

officials in the leading diamond producing countries. It is

common for these officials to be bribed with a small amount

of money in exchange for paperwork, declaring that blood

diamonds are Kimberley Process-certified.

Despite this, their exports continue to be granted ‘conflict free’

status year after year.

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What Is a blooD DIamonD?

deplorable by refusing both hunting permits and access

to local water supplies.

� Illegal diamond mines are being run in Venezuela, often by

Brazilian illegal immigrants. These large-scale operations are

producing diamonds that are sold to smugglers in Guyana

who go on to mix them with legally-sourced gemstones,

allowing them to bypass the Kimberley Process on their

way to the consumer market.

To make matters worse, even the countries that have voluntarily

signed up for the process have occasionally struggled to

implement it effectively.

Just as we often buy Fair-trade products, to ensure the farmers

who produce our food are getting a fair deal, we should do

what we can to ensure the jewellery that gives us so much

pleasure is not ruining the lives of others.

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environmental Concerns about Canadian Diamonds

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envIronmental ConCerns about CanaDIan DIamonDsenvIronmental ConCerns about CanaDIan DIamonDs

37% decrease in high-quality habitats and an 84% increase

in low-quality ones.

The plight of caribou is especially problematic, as the Dene

people rely on them as their main source of protein. The

herds have been in decline for decades now due to a number

of different environmental factors, and damage wreaked

by the diamond mines has only served to exacerbate the

problem.

Muskeg, a peat-type area that forms a significant part of their

habitat, is being dewatered by mining operations, releasing

poisonous methyl mercury into the environment and damaging

it further.

Increased noise levels from traffic, heavy equipment, overhead

flights and the use of diesel-powered generators have also

affected the density of local bird populations, with certain

species feeling the effects as far as 3000 metres away.

Dust from the mining operations has also caused significant

environmental damage, particularly to plant-life. Changes in

soil pH, an earlier melting point for snow in certain areas, and

Many jewellers use the phrase “Canadian Diamonds” when

they want to prove to their customers that their products

have all been ethically sourced from conflict-free areas.

It’s true that Canada is certainly the industry leader in terms of

ethically sourcing diamonds and minimising the environmental

damage caused by mining operations. It’s also true that the

living standards for both miners and nearby communities

are significantly higher in Canada, and that the technological

sophistication of their mining operations is far superior to that

of other countries.

But there is still a significant amount of damage being done

to the local environment, despite a well-orchestrated PR

campaign to play down the problem. Wildlife in particular

has been hit especially hard, despite efforts to remedy

the problem. Research by the Canadian Environmental

Assessment Agency revealed that wolves and grizzly bears

suffered the most from damage done to their habitats,

with caribou (who are particularly sensitive to any sort of

industrial activity) and wolverines also suffering. The study

certainly painted a bleak picture when it demonstrated a

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an increased depth of the active layer of soil have affected

many plants’ ability to photosynthesise.

The independent watchdog, Mining Watch Canada, has already

raised concerns about these issues and is trying to ensure that

Canada’s Aboriginal people benefit from the mines and do

not have their communities and their traditional way of life

irreparably torn apart by them.

It has also been reported that Canadian Diamonds have been

associated with weaponry purchases from their sale in Israel.

This contradicts the “conflict free” label that is widely used by

jewellers when selling Canadian Diamonds.

It’s therefore a mistake to believe any marketing that implies

there are absolutely no ethical concerns surrounding Canadian

Diamonds. The diamond corporations who carry out the

mining in Canada are the same companies that mine in Africa

and thus associated with the issues there.

Although Canada has made significant progress in the field

of ethical mining, there is still a lot of work to be done, so be

sure to do your own research before you make a purchase.

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how the IQ Diamond® benefits the environment

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hoW the IQ DIamonD® benefIts the envIronment

This is another strong argument for an alternative to mined

diamonds – and the IQ Diamond® in particular – as there is

no chance of them turning out to be blood diamonds. State-of-

the-art technology is used in the production of the IQ Diamond®

carried out in a modern day lab environment, therefore keeping

harmful and destructive mining to a minimum.

Each one-carat IQ Diamond® sold in place of an earth-mined

equivalent prevents up to 250 tons of ore being extracted

from the earth.

No greenhouse emissions, water or air pollution results from

the creation of the IQ Diamond®.

No devastated ecosystems are associated with it, nor do we

use hazardous chemicals, radiation or other environmentally

dangerous substances and processes.

Unlike mined diamonds, the IQ Diamond® is free from unethical

mining, pollution, unethical labour, unethical business practices

or extortionate pricing.

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The perfect settingChoice for the IQ

Diamond®

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the perfeCt settIngthe perfeCt settIng

more like platinum and does not necessarily require rhodium

plating.

White gold

18c white gold is comprised of 75% gold and 25% white metals,

such as silver or palladium. Depending on the metals that have

been used in its creation, it can have a grey look, and so needs

rhodium plating if it is to shine properly. However, if you opt

for palladium-rich gold, which has a natural white appearance,

it doesn’t require the use of rhodium plating.

Yellow gold

18ct yellow gold is 75% gold and 25% silver, palladium and

copper. This combination gives it a beautifully rich colour and

also makes it hard and scratch-resistant, so it is an excellent

option for mounting gemstones.

Rose gold

Gold with a very high copper content is referred to as rose

gold. The higher the copper content, the deeper shade of

red it will be.

A s you’ll no doubt have seen by now, you’ll save a

considerable amount of money when you opt for an

IQ Diamond® rather than a mined one – which means you

can invest a little extra in its setting and create a truly stunning

piece of jewellery. Let’s look at some of your options when it

comes to metals…

Do you need rhodium plating?

Rhodium plating is part of the platinum family – a brilliant

white metal that is often used to plate cheaper jewellery to

give it an impressive-looking sheen. However, this plating

wears out extremely quickly, so you’ll often find yourself having

it re-plated every 12 months or so as the metal underneath

starts to show through. This will be a big problem if you are

planning on wearing the jewellery regularly.

Furthermore, the process used in the creation of rhodium is

extremely toxic and damaging to the environment. That’s why

we’d recommend investing the money you’ve saved by opting

for the IQ Diamond® into a better quality metal, particularly

palladium-rich gold or platinum. Palladium-rich gold looks

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the perfeCt settIngthe perfeCt settIng

Round Brilliant

This is a classic style that accounts for

more than half the diamonds sold at

the time of writing. It offers a high level

of fire and brilliance and will almost

always prove to be an excellent choice

due to its versatility.

Emerald

The unique cut of the emerald diamond

(so called because the shape was

originally developed for the cutting

of emeralds) produces an attractive

interplay between the light and the

darker planes – often referred to as a ‘hall of mirrors’ effect.

It will create a dazzling look when combined with the high

clarity grade of the IQ Diamond®.

Radiant

The radiant is one of the most brilliant of shapes and also hides

inclusions well. When it was first developed during the 1970s,

If you do opt for gold, remember to have it polished every 12-

18 months so it keeps its lustre, and also be sure to ask about

Fair-trade gold, to make sure it has been ethically sourced.

Platinum

Platinum’s advantages when it comes to jewellery making

are numerous.

Unlike many precious metals, it will never discolour or tarnish.

It is hypoallergenic, making it ideal for people with sensitive

skin. It is far denser and stronger than gold and will therefore

require a lot less maintenance over the years.

It is one of the world’s most rare precious metals and is 95%

pure compared to gold, which is 75% pure. Only about 133

tons of platinum are mined each year, compared to around

2,000 tons of gold.

The different shapes of the IQ Diamond®

The IQ Diamond® can be cut in any of the classic or contemporary

shapes a mined diamond can. These include…

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88 89

the perfeCt settIngthe perfeCt settIng

it changed the whole diamond industry’s attitude to square

or rectangular shapes. It is a versatile choice that looks great

in a variety of settings.

Oval

The oval shape offers a unique spin on the round diamond if

you are looking for something a little different.

Heart

Suffice to say, this shape is popular for engagement rings! This

shape requires considerable skill to execute, if it is to maintain

its sparkle.

Princess

This shape is especially well-suited to engagement rings and

can work with virtually any ring style. It is the most brilliant of

all square-shaped diamonds.

Asscher

Having fallen out of favour since the 1920s, this shape has

recently experienced a resurgence in popularity. With a redesign

that increases its shine, it offers a slightly more brilliant spin on

the emerald shape.

Cushion

Until the 20th century, this was the default shape for diamonds.

It is notable for its brilliance. Although it has something of an

‘antique’ feel, it also adapts well to modern settings.

Marquise

This long and narrow shape actually creates the illusion of extra

size, helping to maximise carat weight. It can also elongate

the finger of the wearer, making it seem longer and slimmer.

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Conclusion

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92 93

ConClusIonConClusIon

http://www.miningwatch.ca/en/there-are-no-clean-diamonds-what-you-need-know-about-canadian-diamonds

http://www.canadiangeographic.ca/blog/posting.asp?ID=432

http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/north/story/2011/01/10/nwt-debeers-mine-caribou.html

We hope this book has proved to be interesting and given

you a much better understanding of the diamond

industry and the alternatives available to mined diamonds.

To finish, let’s return to a point from the very beginning of

the book. The fact that there are now alternatives to mined

diamonds, that have been sourced using questionable means

and sold for an inflated price, does not mean we should

compromise on the quality and beauty of the jewellery we

buy. Far from providing another cheap alternative, this new

era of jewellery making represents an opportunity for people

from all walks of life to acquire stones that are of superlative

quality and presented in beautiful settings.

It’s a tremendously exciting time and we hope that you’re now

as excited about it as we are and inspired to explore it further!

References:

http://www.thepetitionsite.com/3/Boycott-Israeli-Blood-Diamonds/

http://www.randomli.com/musings/the-dirty-diamond-industry-the-truth-behind-a-girls-best-friend/

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-africa-14445087

http://www.environmentalgraffiti.com/featured/most-incredible-earth-scars/16808

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about KinetIQue: Kind not mined Jewellery

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96 97

about KInetIQue: KInD not mIneD JeWelleryabout KInetIQue: KInD not mIneD JeWellery

companies deemed to “excel in ethical consumerism with an

excellent corporate social responsibility strategy”.

Put simply, we trade ethically and responsibly with regard to

people, animals and the environment.

On completion of the audit, the research team made the

following comment:

“It is refreshing to discover a company like KinetIQue, offering a

unique product which respects human rights and the environment

– often negatively associated with the process of earth mined

diamonds. The company shows a clear understanding of

sustainability with the sourcing, production and packaging of

their products through their own business practices.”

Just visit our website to find out a little more about us and to

browse our exquisite range…

www.kinetique.co.uk

We originally founded KinetIQue jewellery in order to

provide us with more opportunities to spend time as

a family, but it has since proved to be the beginning of an

exciting new journey for us…

All our jewellery is created by master craftsmen, using the

revolutionary IQ Diamond® in a wide variety of stylish designs,

including your own custom creations, guaranteed for life.

Our services include…

� Handmade Jewellery to Order

� Repairs & Restoration

� Ring Resizing

� Rhodium Plating

We are committed to providing you with stunning yet affordable

jewellery that has had no humanitarian cost and no impact

on the environment.

In fact, we received the Ethical Award in July 2012 on completion

of an ethical audit, which puts KinetIQue in the top third of

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www.kinetique.co.uk

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Debunking the mythology surrounding diamonds and helping you choose jewellery that you’ll treasure forever

Diamonds are objects of incredible beauty and often rank

amongst our most treasured possessions. Despite this,

there are a great number of misconceptions about both

diamonds and the diamond industry. This book from Jason

and Elaine Foreman of KinetIQue Jewellery will lay those

misconceptions to rest and help you make a more informed

decision the next time you’re looking for a special piece of

jewellery. The topics they cover include…

� Why man-made hybrid diamonds are now so close in

quality to natural ones that even expert Gemologists can’t

tell the difference

� Why diamonds cost what they do – and why it’s got

nothing to do with their quality or rarity

� The impact even the best-regulated diamond mining is

having on the environment

� Blood diamonds – the ugly truth about where our

jewellery comes from

Whether you’re shopping for an engagement ring, a gift

for someone special, or just a little present for yourself, you

cannot afford to go any further until you’ve read this book…

www.kinetique.co.uk

Introducing the IQ Diamond®: Kind not Mined Jewellery