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Introduce flamboyant Europeans to your bold New World friends

Make friends at 40,000ft and savour exclusive wines that take you places. From full-bodied classics to fresh blends from the world’s top wine-producing regions.

EMI0500_QUICK_JOBS_Sundowner_FPC_245x330.indd 1 3/8/16 10:29 AM

INSPIRING JOURNEYS | WINTER 2016

IndiaBotswana

PortugalEcuador

Morocco

INSIDE

www.abercrombiekent.com.au www.abercrombiekent.com.au2 3

CONTENTSFEATURES

32 A LITERARY JOURNEY THROUGH INDIA India

40 NO SUDDEN MOVES A luxury small group journey to Botswana

48 FOR THE LOVE OF NATURE The ecological delights of Ecuador

ALSO IN THIS ISSUE

6 LIFE Events in Melbourne and Sydney

10 A&K NEWS Partnerships and Special Offers

14 AIRBORNE News from our airline partners

16 EXCLUSIVE HOSTED JOURNEYS New destinations

20 AROUND THE WORLD How to spend New Year’s Eve

Follow us on Instagram to stay updated with the latest A&K adventures @aktravel_au

abercrombiekent.com.au/youtubeaktravel.au

aktravel_au issuu.com/abercrombiekentau

Abercrombie & Kent Level 3, 290 Coventry Street, South Melbourne, Victoria 3205. www.abercrombiekent.com.au

[email protected] All enquiries to +61 3 9536 1800 or 1300 551 541.

22 INSIDER’S GUIDE What to see and do in Portugal

28 A&K PHILANTHROPY Taking up the Mantle

31 WISH YOU WERE HERE Bhutan’s Tiger’s Nest

56 MOROCCO: KASBAHS & CARAVANS A Journey in Pictures

58 FAR FROM THE MADDING CROWD A&K’s Top 10

64 NOTES FROM THE FIELD A family affair in India

66 NATURAL WONDERS Costa Rica’s Resplendent Quetzal

48

632

22

Sundowner is published by Abercrombie & Kent Australia. The opinions expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of Abercrombie & Kent. While Abercrombie & Kent has taken all reasonable precautions and made all reasonable effort to ensure the accuracy of material contained in this publication, Abercrombie & Kent does not assume any responsibility or liability for any loss or damage which may result from any inaccuracy or omission in the publication, or from the use of the information contained herein. Copyright 2016. Abercrombie & Kent Australia, ABN 55005422999. Editor: Serena Mitchell; Graphic Design: Cristopher Leiva; Head of Marketing: Joel Victoria

It’s an exciting year for everyone at A&K Australia as they celebrate their thirtieth anniversary. I’d like to take the opportunity to personally congratulate each and every team member on

this milestone. From early days handling on-ground arrangements through Australia and New Zealand for a handful of inbound travellers from Europe and the U.S., the A&K operation down under has become a far-reaching entity employing over 70 staff who specialise in tailoring and delivering seamless journeys both here and abroad.

In this issue we feature just a handful of the many exotic holidays possible when you engage A&K to tailor your personal journey. There’s a first-hand account of the Jaipur Literature Festival (page 32) from well-respected author Claire Scobie and a round-up of the myriad ecological experiences available throughout Ecuador (page 48). An exciting safari adventure in Botswana (page 40) is featured as well as developments in our hosted journey programme (page 16) and as always news and special offers from around the A&K world.

Enjoy the read and be inspired to spread your wings.

Happy travels.

Geoffrey Kent Founder, Chairman and CEO of the Abercrombie & Kent Group of Companies

WELCOME TO OUR WINTER ISSUE

follow me on Instagram and hear about my latest A&K adventures @geoffrey_kent

NOTEFOUNDER’S


Anooska is a journalist specialising in food and travel writing based in Queensland, Australia. She also has a background in entertainment and fashion journalism,

travelling Australia and the world to interview celebrities and cover fashion events and TV shows.

Claire is the award-winning author of Last Seen in Lhasa and The Pagoda Tree, chosen by Good Reading magazine as one of their Best Fiction Reads 2013. Driven by a love of words, she mentors writers and advises companies on how to harness the power of storytelling as a strategic business tool. For twenty years she’s been visiting India where she previously lived and worked as a journalist. She’s delighted she can now combine her twin passions of drinking chai and sharing all things literary on Abercrombie & Kent’s new Literary Tour of India. Fancy a cuppa, anyone?

Joanna is an award-winning journalist, editor, author and travel photographer with extensive experience

in Australia, the UK and US. She is as adept online as she is in print, and can tailor the style and tone of the

content to meet the intended audience with ease. She has written for Marie Claire, The Sunday Telegraph, Signature Luxury Travel & Style, The Daily Telegraph

and MiNDFOOD to name a few.

Claire Scobie page 32

Joanna Tovia page 48

Anooska Tucker Evans page 40

Followers on Twitter get daily A&K updates from around the world, including tweets from Hosted Group Journey hosts, Claire Scobie

& Geoff Jansz, whilst on ground visiting fascinating destinations.

Be inspired by our Hot List 2016 video collection, with videos covering the must-see

destinations for the year in travel.

TWITTER YOUTUBE

On the Cover © Shutterstock, Indian spicesOur appreciation of imagery to: Restaurante Boa Nova, Fabrice Demoulin/100 Maneiras, Museu Nacional do Azulejo, A Vida Portugesa, Luvaria Ulisses, Livraria Lello, Entre Tanto, Hester Parsons Marketing Executive A&K Europe, Sanctuary Hotels and Retreats, Eastern Safaris, ACCA Gallery, Joanna Tovia, Claire Scobie, John Saporito, Joana Gomes from LX Factory, Ricardo Junqueira, Portugal & Morocco Illustrations: Joy Gosney

CONTRIBUTORS

We’re sharing all of our favourite journeys, news and competitions. Include A&K in your news feed to find out more!

FACEBOOK

OUTCHECK US

Follow A&K online for recent happenings, news and our favourite places.

Stunning photos from the field as our Travel Specialists tour the world.

Follow us to

#GoBeyondtheOrdinary

INSTAGRAM


The new Primus Hotel recently played host to an evening of unique photography featuring moments captured by guests on their A&K adventures. A&K Managing Director Sujata Raman shared the latest inspiring travel experiences whilst guests enjoyed champagne and canapés. All photography on display was part of a silent auction on the night, with proceeds going to Abercrombie & Kent Philanthropy.

IN SYDNEY WITH A&K

LIFE LIFE

A picture is worth a thousand wordsSYDNEY PHOTOGRAPHIC EXHIBITION



LIFE LIFELIFE LIFE

Abercrombie & Kent hosted 65 guests to an evening of shared memories and future travel inspirations at Melbourne’s Ellis St Studio. Guest photography provided a

stunning backdrop to a night of fine food, wine and canapés from Damm Fine Food. Guests took part in an online auction of the stunning photography, with successful

bidders taking home $500 to put towards their next A&K journey.

IN MELBOURNE WITH A&K

A picture is worth a thousand wordsMELBOURNE PHOTOGRAPHIC EXHIBITION



A&K is proud to announce its partnership with the

Australian Centre for Contemporary Art (ACCA).

ACCA is Melbourne’s leading contemporary art

space, and the only major public gallery in Australia

focused on commissioning rather than collecting.

This year, A&K is collaborating with ACCA on their

Grand Tour lecture series covering international art

destinations from expert perspectives.

A&K is proud to announce that it has exclusive access to sell

Tasmania’s newest wilderness retreat, Pumphouse Point. Located

on stunning Lake St Clair, the property features a shore house and a

converted 1940s hydroelectric pump set 250m out in the lake with

a total of 18 guest suites and public areas. Each suite is stocked with

local food and wines for picnics and use of bicycles for exploring the

area. Some of Tasmania’s finest walks are right on the doorstep and

it’s only 2.5 hours from Hobart.

New from A&K is this portfolio of hand-picked small group journeys

to India, Morocco, Sri Lanka and Indochina in collaboration with

Australian Gourmet Traveller magazine. Tours take a maximum

of 24 guests, focus on destinations with both culinary and cultural

appeal and include exclusive gourmet experiences.

Our Sundowner magazine is now available

electronically via publishing platform ISSUU.

Compatible with Apple and Android devices you

can turn the pages like a real magazine and enjoy

amazing high definition colour imagery and content.

Gourmet Traveller India by A&K with Helen Anderson

9-23 September 2016 from $10,890

Gourmet Traveller Morocco by A&K with Pat Nourse

25 September-7 October 2016 from $10,595

Gourmet Traveller Sri Lanka by A&K with Helen Anderson

15–29 March 2017 from $7,995

Gourmet Traveller Siem Reap to Saigon by A&K with Christine Manfield

12-20 October 2017 from $14,295

All prices per person twin share.

SPECIAL OFFER

Guests booking international flights for Gourmet Traveller journeys with

A&K will receive $500 off their airfare.

AUSTRALIAN CENTRE FOR CONTEMPORARY ART

WORLD HERITAGE WILDERNESS

GOURMET TRAVELLER BY A&K

OTHER WAYS TO GET YOUR A&K NEWS

For more information visit www.accaonline.org.au

Check out our full Brochure Collection and read our Sundowner magazine on issuu.com/abercrombiekentau

A&K NEWS


On our nine day private journey through Russia, you’ll see a wealth

of artistic treasures and architectural wonders and experience age-

old traditions. Moscow highlights include the famous onion domes

of St. Basil’s Cathedral, Red Square and a privately guided tour

through the Space Museum with an astronaut. In St. Petersburg a privately guided visit to Russia’s

greatest museum, the Hermitage is included plus a private canal cruise, a visit to Catherine’s Palace and the splendid palace of Peter the Great.

T

Twin share per person: From $7,995 (was $10,120)

Solo traveller: From $14,055 (was $17,775)

For travel in 2016. Terms & Conditions apply.

On our outstanding 12 day adventure to Zambia & Botswana guests see some of Africa’s most unspoiled wilderness destinations

including the South Luangwa and Chobe National Parks, the

extraordinary Okavango Delta and magnificent Victoria Falls. While on safari guests stay in Sanctuary Retreats’ camps and lodges and

enjoy a visit to the AKP supported Nakatindi community and school

project near Livingstone. T

Twin share per person: From $7,550 (was $11,690)

Solo traveller: From $8,555 (was $12,695)

To celebrate its addition to the collection this year, A&K is offering savings of up to $1,900 per couple on its new 10 day private journey, ‘Colombia Revealed’. Highlights

include the modern capital with its atmospheric old town and vibrant art scene, coffee plantations and cloud forest to the west and the

glistening Caribbean coastline and beautiful old town of Cartagena.

Accommodation is the finest in the country and includes heritage hotels such as Four Seasons Casa Medina in Bogotá and Cartagena’s Sofitel

Santa Clara. T

Twin share per person: $8,500 (was $9,450)

Solo Traveller: $15,245 (was $17,460)

FROM A&K

SAVE $4,250 PER COUPLE IN RUSSIA

SAFARI SAVINGS IN ZAMBIA & BOTSWANA

SAVE WITH A&K TO COLOMBIA

SPECIAL OFFER

SPECIAL OFFER

SPECIAL OFFER

SPECIAL OFFERS

a selection of unmissable offers

Join A&K’s exclusive expedition through the Northwest Passage in 2017. Travel on board the specially

chartered MV Le Boreal as it cruises the legendary seas from Greenland

to the Canadian Arctic to the Bering Sea and Alaska. Along the way visits

are made to historic and remote islands, fjords and harbours along

the elusive Northwest Passage, taking in moving stories of voyages won and lives lost, all in the name of conquering a trade route between

the Atlantic and Pacific.Tour dates:

21 August-13 September 2017 T

Book by 31 October 2016 and save US$3,000 per person

on Category 1 - 3 cabins.Prices from:

US$26,995 per person twin share (was $29,995)

NORTHWEST PASSAGE

SPECIAL OFFER

On board MV Le Boreal

www.abercrombiekent.com.au14

Africa’s leading airline South African Airways (SAA) offers the finest experience in the air and on the ground with exceptional passenger comfort, safety and reliability. Serving 24 destinations within Africa and a total of 40 worldwide, SAA offers its passengers expansive coverage when travelling from Australia to Africa. SAA has been voted best airline in Africa for 14 years consecutively in the renowned Skytrax awards. SAA’s legendary on-board experience reflects the best food and wine on offer by decorated celebrity chefs to ensure each flight is catered for with an extensive cuisine choice. Our chefs have crafted menus that reflect some of the finest restaurants and cultures. This is complimented by a range of South African and international quality wines. Passenger comfort in business and economy is a priority with generous seat pitch, the latest inflight entertainment, meals and snacks as well as a full bar service.

SOUTH AFRICAN AIRWAYS

AIRBORNE

With an extensive route network, regular domestic and international flights, customers can now fly on a SAA ticket from Brisbane, Melbourne, Adelaide or Sydney via Perth directly onto Johannesburg and beyond with seamless connections within regional Africa. Our convenient schedule from Australia provides the best connectivity for domestic, regional or international flights. Connecting flights within Australia to Perth are operated by our code-share partner Virgin Australia. SAA is part of Star Alliance, the world’s largest airline partnership reaching some 1900 destinations worldwide.

For more information see www.flysaa.com.au


TOUR DATES: 10 – 24 May 2017

PRICE: Le Lyrial Prestige Deck 4 cabin Twin share per person: From $17,995 Single Supplement: From $7,395

Explore Madagascar in depth on this fascinating 12 day journey led by renowned naturalist Dr. Charlie Gardner, who has worked as a scientific advisor for WWF and Madagascar National Parks and has assisted with the filming of Sir David Attenborough’s extraordinary BBC documentary ‘Madagascar’. He will share with you the diverse and curious wildlife that inhabits this incredible land.

Accommodation is varied from comfortable city hotel, to small bungalow-style digs, tented river camp and safari beach lodge. Each is hand-picked, well located and the very best available. Group size limited to 18 guests.

From the dreamy city of Venice, its lagoons, artistic masterpieces and lesser known sites to the charming Friuli region in Italy’s northeast this journey starts and ends with an immersion in Italian culture and cuisine. Special gourmet experiences are included savouring the best of the region’s food and wine as well as in-depth visits to some unexpected sights from ancient Rome to the Baroque era. There’s also a visit to the Venice Biennale with a specialist art guide to point out the exhibition highlights. Combining perfectly with a week in Italy is a cruise along Croatia’s Dalmatian coast on board Ponant’s magnificent Le Lyrial. This sophisticated luxury yacht is the ideal vessel from which to explore the ancient ruins and timeless cities of Dubrovnik, Kotor and Rovinj where a full range of fascinating shore excursions has been included.

A NATURALIST’S GUIDE TO MADAGASCAR

CULTURE, CUISINE AND CRUISING FROM ITALY TO CROATIA

This unique journey takes you to the heart of one of the world’s most fascinating destinations. With a 5,000 year old history and World Heritage sites aplenty, Iran is a treasure trove full of dazzling ancient cities, architectural delights in abundance, mesmerising gardens and bazaars and a unique heritage. The cities and sights you’ll visit with evocative names such as Shiraz, Persepolis, Isfahan and Kashan are long-enshrined in the history and legend of Central Asia. You’ll be warmly welcomed and enjoy local Iranian hospitality throughout.

This journey is perfect for travellers seeking adventure by day and comfortable lodgings by night. The dramatic highlights of northern Chile are combined with the extraordinary landscapes of the Bolivian salt flats and the high altitude wonders of Lake Titicaca and Cusco. Ancient pre-Columbian archaeology contrasts with modern street art, and there’s delicious South American food and wine and a rich textile heritage. Photographers will find endless subject matter in extraordinary landscapes, richly coloured handicrafts, faces full of character, atmospheric city scenes and unusual wildlife with a local escort on board from beginning to end.

DISCOVER THE UNDISCOVEREDEXCLUSIVE GROUP TOURING

A&K’s ever-expanding collection of hosted journeys now includes more fascinating destinations than ever before.

A JOURNEY THROUGH PERSIA TREASURES OF THE ANDES: CHILE, BOLIVIA & PERU

IRAN CHILE, BOLIVIA & PERU

MADAGASCAR

ITALY, CROATIA & MONTENEGRO

TOUR DATES: 21 September - 6 October 2016 4 - 19 November 2016 3 - 18 May 201714 - 29 September 2017 25 October - 9 November2017

PRICE: Twin share per person: From $10,995*Single supplement: From $2,515*

*Price listed is for 2016 departures. Prices for 2017 on application.

TOUR DATES: 1-19 April 2017 28 October-15 November 2017

PRICE: Twin share per person: From $16,395 Single supplement:From $3,650

TOUR DATES: 6-18 August 2017 12-24 November 2017

PRICE: Twin share per person: From $9,890Single supplement: From $2,600

HOSTED JOURNEYS


HOSTED JOURNEYSHOSTED JOURNEYS

Discover why Colombia is Latin America’s best kept secret when you explore this fascinating country in the company of Bogotá expat, Richard McColl. You’ll focus on two of the country’s most famous cultural assets – renowned author Gabriel García Márquez and the great artist Fernando Botero – as well as the abundant natural attractions of the coffee country and the newly happening vibe of Medellin, Colombia’s second city. Bed down in hotels full of character and enjoy plenty of delicious local fare along the way. You’ll be surprised and delighted by what you see.

JEWELS OF COLOMBIA

COLOMBIA

TOUR DATES: 12 - 21 May 2017 24 November - 3 December 2017

PRICE: Twin share per person: From $8,295Single supplement: From $1,995

Sometimes overlooked in favour of the well-trodden Tuscany, Puglia is one of Italy’s most appealing and unspoiled regions. Life passes by at an unhurried pace, it has extraordinary Baroque and Renaissance architecture plus the distinctive yet simple conically rooved white stone huts called trulli. It has a rich and bountiful cuisine and on this exclusive journey you’ll enjoy the local rustic fare wherever you are with plenty of time to walk it off. The stunning Amalfi Coast and its breathtaking cliff-side landscapes are the focus for the final four days of the journey. Walks are between 5 and 8 km daily with a reasonable level of fitness required and your escort is the charming Emanuela Spadoni.

FOOD & WALKS IN PUGLIA AND AMALFI

ITALY

TOUR DATES: 21 April – 1 May 2017

PRICE: Twin share per person:From $11,695Single supplement: From $2,595

This journey ventures to the heart of northern Europe’s most breathtaking landscapes. From Oslo, discover the beauty of the Norwegian fjords on a luxury cruise with Ponant visiting extraordinary World Heritage sites, charming towns and villages, dramatic waterfalls, soaring mountain vistas and nature unspoiled. Equally scenic, Iceland delivers drama aplenty. Small and compact, all the highlights are easily accessible in under a week with a land-based itinerary that travels from the charming and colourful capital Reykjavik to the remote south shore and the volcanoes, geysers and waterfalls of the Golden Circle region.

NORWEGIAN FJORDS AND ICELAND: EXCLUSIVE CRUISE TOUR

Both spring and autumn in Japan are glorious times to visit. The landscape is awash with colour from the pink and red cherry blossoms of spring to autumn’s spectacular orange and red foliage. We are offering two new small group journeys departing in spring and autumn 2017. On both you’ll visit stunning gardens, see ancient samurai villas, charming mountain villages and spend two days celebrating at the Takayama Festival. Our expert local host, Iku Ishii, will also introduce you to the country’s history and heritage from the modern era back through the feudal period of warlords and shogun to the early Nara village culture of the 8th century. You’ll experience some of the country’s

JAPAN: FESTIVALS AND CULTURE

JAPAN

NORWAY - ICELAND

most fascinating customs from a traditional tea ceremony to a kaiseki ryori dinner with a traditional maiko (apprentice geisha). You’ll walk the scenic Philosopher’s Path in Kyoto, visit the atelier of Tokyo’s most famous swordsmith family and see some of the country’s most important Shinto shrines.

TOUR DATES: 3 – 17 April 2017 28 September - 12 October 2017

PRICE: Twin share per person: From $16,695 Single supplement: From $3,995

TOUR DATES: 12-29 June 2017

PRICE: Twin share per person: From $21,995Single supplement:From $6,295 Includes international flights to/from Sydney, Melbourne & Brisbane.


Prepare to party in vibrant Cape Town where New Year’s celebrations span three days and the waterfront is alive with music performances, street artists and a midnight fireworks display. If you prefer a quieter vantage point then have a picnic packed for you and head to Table Mountain for unobstructed views of the dazzling pyrotechnics. Sleep off the celebration at one of the city’s beautiful beaches or head out to the Winelands for a long lunch.

SEEING IN THE NEW YEAR

IN STYLEEpic fireworks, all night dance parties, glamorous black tie affairs

or a quiet night under star-filled skies. Make sure you see in the

next New Year with a bang. It’s not too early to plan so here are

some ideas for a year’s end getaway to whet your appetite.

CUSCO

CAPE TOWN

REYKJAVIK

MUMBAI

MADRID

TOKYO

Head to the heart of the ancient Incan capital and gather with the locals in the Plaza de Armas where the all-night party goes off. Surrounded by illuminated colonial arcades and the splendid cathedral, church bells chime and fireworks herald the arrival of the New Year. Revellers seek good luck circling the square seven times and those still awake should head to the nearby Incan ruins of Sacsayhuaman to watch a glorious sunrise.

Visit the northernmost capital of the world where there are only four hours of daylight in late December and an urge to party hard. Locals kick off celebrations with music and dancing around community bonfires across the city and at midnight the city lights up with multiple fireworks displays. Recover with a stint in the countryside nearby soaking in hot springs and glimpsing the extraordinary Northern Lights.

After a celebratory banquet at Mumbai’s iconic Taj Mahal Palace, wander across the road to the Gateway of India where it’s all happening and the celebration goes on till the wee hours with fireworks, dancing and music. If that’s not enough join the rest of South Bombay at Marine Drive and party till dawn.

Pack into Madrid’s main plaza, Puerta del Sol, to ring in the New Year. As the old post office clock chimes its countdown to midnight, tradition demands the eating of 12 grapes to bring good luck for every month of the year. Continue the fiesta and pop the cork on a bottle of cava before dancing the night away. Nourish weary bones in the wee hours with a mug of hot chocolate and churros!

Rug up and hit the streets of Tokyo where noodle restaurants are teeming – buckwheat noodles are consumed as a symbol of longevity - and temple bells ring the countdown to midnight. Admire a firework display or the letting off of coloured balloons – either way Tokyo’s night sky will be well adorned. The morning after do as the locals do and pay a visit to the Meiji Shrine to hear the taiko drums.

REYKJAVIK

MADRID

CUSCO

CAPE TOWN

MUMBAI

TOKYO

AROUND THE WORLD


There’s a reason Portugal has made it on to A&K’s Hot List this year and it’s largely thanks to the country’s newfound optimism. Yes, it has successfully weathered government imposed austerity measures but it also has so much to offer the discerning traveller. A diverse nation, with a rich design heritage, ancient walled towns and mountaintop palaces, it also has magical Mediterranean landscapes, delicious food and earthy wines. Here are our top tips when you visit this year-round holiday destination.

PORTOPortugal’s vibrant second city is a World Heritage site built on a steep slope above the River Douro. Home to the famous Port wine it also plays host to a creative culinary scene with undulating medieval streets, stately bridges, Baroque churches and splendid tiled walls.

DINERestaurante Boa NovaSet high on a cliff overlooking the sea to the north of Porto this eatery was designed by leading Portuguese architect Álvaro Siza Vieira in an impressive contemporary building framed with imposing white boulders. Siza first completed the Boa Nova Tea House in 1963, just nine years after he founded his

architectural practice. 50 years on the space has been transformed into a restaurant where Portuguese chef Rui Paula serves delicious, modern food in a fantastic setting. Barao Fladgate This is an exceptionally good restaurant forming part of the Caves Taylor port wine cellars. The cuisine is of a high standard, served in a beautiful setting with superb views over the river to old Porto. The menu is known for its superb seafood. Café Majestic Opened in 1921, the cultural elite flocked to the Café Majestic in its hey-day and it was known for its atmosphere of lively debate. The Art Nouveau setting is decorative

and flamboyant and the café serves up everything from coffee to absinthe. SLEEPThe Yeatman This classic wine hotel and spa is set in extensive grounds amidst the historic Port wine lodges of Porto. Each of the spacious bedrooms and suites has its own private terrace where views of the Douro River and city are breathtaking. In its Michelin star restaurant, the traditional flavours of Portugal are served up with contemporary flair and award winning wines. Its cellar houses the most comprehensive collection of Portuguese wines in the world.

INSIDER’S GUIDE

PORTUGALINSIDER’S GUIDE

DINE: Restaurante Boa Nova

DINE: Café Majestic

www.abercrombiekent.com.au 25

LISBONThe Portuguese capital is one of Europe’s oldest and most beautiful cities. Built around seven hills its streets are dotted with pale stone buildings, patterned limestone pavements, white-domed cathedrals and grand plazas lined with sun-drenched cafés. Look for the trams clattering through tree-lined streets and enjoy the abundance of riverside bars, boutiques and clubs.

SHOPVintage Portuguese Vintage department store, A Vida Portuguesa, is the place to buy soaps

hand wrapped in beautiful papers, pencils, traditional notebooks and wooden toys, beautiful hand-painted tiles as well as chocolates, tea, coffee, wine and more. Its iron pillars and polished floorboards provide atmospheric surrounds in which to shop.

Livraria Lello Spend half an hour or so browsing in this beautiful bookshop with its neo-Gothic façade, panelled walls, grand curvilinear staircase and stained glass ceilings. It is said to have inspired J.K. Rowling while writing the Harry Potter series.

DINETime Out Mercado da Ribeira Originally a fish market dating back to the 13th century, this is now a hub for restaurants, food stalls and workshops, with the opportunity to cook your own meal. Peruse the fresh produce and dine on traditional Portuguese cuisine.

Remiro For typical Portuguese seafood (think shrimp, scampi and crab) and local beer this is the place to go. It’s abuzz - noisy, full of locals and bookings aren’t accepted so get in early to be assured of a table.

Bistro 100 Maneiras Formerly located in Cascais, this restaurant moved to Lisbon’s Bairro Alto in early 2009. The chef is Bosnian-born Ljubomir Stanisic, who presents some of the most creative dishes in Lisbon. All of the ingredients are fresh, bought on the same day at the city’s Ribeira Market. The menu changes daily with reasonably-priced tasting menus.

INSIDER’S GUIDE

SHOP: A Vida Portuguesa

DINE: Bistro 100 Maneiras,Winter Menu.

SHOP: Livraria Lello

Lisbon

DINE: Time Out Mercado da Ribeira

DINE: Bistro 100 Maneiras


BelcantoLocated next to the São Carlos opera house, this restaurant has been serving Portuguese cuisine since it opened in the 1950s, and was taken over by Michelin-starred chef José Avillez in 2011. Here, Avillez has decided to keep some of the previous restaurant’s classic dishes, but his own old favourites and new innovative dishes are also part of the menu.

Taberna da Rua das FloresFor a slice of old Lisbon, grab a spot in this nostalgic tavern with its marble-topped tables and classic Portuguese products on display. Excellent cocktails and local wines are available with tasty tapas plates.

SLEEPOlissippo Lapa Palace This stately 19th century building is perched on a hilltop overlooking the Tagus River. Its peaceful garden is full of centuries-old trees, streams and fountains and is a relaxing oasis in the elegant Lapa district. Every room has its own balcony, with magnificent views of the grounds and the city, as well as sublime bathrooms with hand-painted Portuguese tiles and massive bath tubs.

Palácio Belmonte A wonderful, very secret hotel on top of one of Lisbon’s seven hills. It has vast, colourful and eclectic rooms and a beautiful black-slate pool.

Thief’s MarketThe oldest market in Lisbon, Feira da Ladra (Thief’s Market) has origins dating as far back as the 12th century. Held every Tuesday and Saturday, you’ll find antiques, artisan products, furniture, books, magazines, vinyl records, vintage pictures, old cameras, tiles and more. Bargaining is expected!

DOAzulejo MuseumA little off the beaten track, it’s worth making the effort to visit this delightful museum where five centuries of decorative ceramic tiles, or azulejos, are represented. Housed in the impressive monastic buildings of the Madre de Deus Convent, learn the history behind this unique art form and don’t miss the extraordinary 23m long blue and white tile composition of Lisbon’s cityscape dating from 1738.

Contemporary Art Originally an industrial complex for two fabric and thread companies, the LX Factory arts centre is a place where visitors can participate and interact. Each year, the Arts Centre plays host to several significant artistic events, one of which is “Open Day” which showcases the work of almost 150 resident artists and companies, all in the name of celebrating contemporary art.

Montserrate This whimsical Moorish-inspired palácio is the 19th-century romantic folly of English millionaire Sir Francis Cook. Located near Sintra and easily visited in a day, the extravagantly decorated palace

SHOPLisbon LuxSaid by some to be Lisbon’s best shopping district, head to Principe Real for designer boutiques, handmade jewellery, antique shops, lifestyle concept stores, artisan chocolates and buzzing cafés. It’s also a sought-after residential district with beautiful gardens, squares and brightly coloured houses.

For the love of glovesLuvaria Ulisses is a tiny jewel of a shop, founded in 1925 in Lisbon’s Chiado district. Devoted purely to the design and sale of fine gloves, each pair is made from the best leather using traditional methods. Providing good old fashioned service and gloves to the city’s political, cultural and artistic upper class for nearly 100 years, this is a shop not to miss.

INSIDER’S GUIDE

DO: Azulejo Museum

SLEEP: Olissippo Lapa Palace

SHOP: Luvaria Ulisses

A&K’s seven day ‘Portuguese Delights’ is priced from $7,370 per person twin share

For more information call A&K on 1300 551 541 or your local travel agent

JOURNEYOUR SUGGESTED

SHOP: The O-bag, Entretanto Indoor Market, Pricipe Real District

DO: Azulejo Museum

DO: Contemporary installation at the LX Factory

blends Portuguese, Arabian and Indian architectural styles and is one the most beautiful buildings in the area. Its grounds are impressive too with wooded hillsides bristling with exotic foliage, from Chinese weeping cypress to dragon trees and Himalayan rhododendrons.

DO: Outdoors at the LX Factory


TAKING UP THE MANTLEA&K PHILANTHROPY

How today’s young travellers are transforming themselves into the next generation of AKP philanthropists

Abercrombie & Kent Philanthropy (AKP) Coordinator Sarah Liaram is an agent for change.

Living her whole life in the Masai Mara, Sarah was the first girl in her village to graduate from high school and the first person, of either sex, to go to college. She could have opted for a well-paying job in Nairobi; instead, she chose to stay in her village and help coordinate AKP’s local efforts, which includes meeting with A&K guests and introducing them to the extraordinary work being achieved through these projects.Sarah’s logistical support is invaluable. Beyond that, she provides a strong role model for girls. She fights, especially, for the rights of young women to be educated. And she is an inspiration to A&K guests — and to three young guests in particular, who were inspired by meeting Sarah to pursue their own passion for philanthropy and social change.

Carrigan MillerChanging Lives through Building

At Carrigan Miller’s former high school, senior students participate in “May Term,” an opportunity to pursue an interest, take an internship, experience unique insights through travel, or perform community service. Carrigan chose community service with an AKP twist: He went to the Masai Mara, lived in a boma and helped build a girls bathroom in the Olopi-Kidong’oe school.

“I first visited the Mara in sixth grade, when my family went on vacation,” he says. “We went to a school and brought school supplies. I saw the conditions the Maasai live under. I’ve been pretty lucky; I’ve never wanted for much. So I thought about going back, and thought I could help people in a meaningful way.”

Carrigan went to the Mara as a graduation present from his parents. He lived in a hut in the boma and worked with local contractors to build the bathroom. “I did whatever they needed,” he says. “I couldn’t do the more technical stuff, so I mixed a lot of cement, moved wheelbarrows, got water and tools, and helped take down what existed prior to building the new structure.” At first, coming from a suburb with every convenience, he felt out of his element, having no electricity and sleeping on a mattress on a dirt floor surrounded by mosquito netting. But after the first week, he

Phoebe WarrenChanging Lives through Awareness and Education

Phoebe Warren is in many ways a typical teenager — she loves music, dancing and playing the piano, is passionate about reading and learning, and is looking forward to college. In other ways, she’s hardly typical. “My grandparents took the whole family, all 18 of us, to Kenya,” Phoebe says. “We met Sarah, and she told us this amazing story about being asked to help with a ‘situation’ at a school where two girls were in tears because they were about to be sold into marriage. They wanted to continue their education. But their father was very poor, very angry and needed the money.

“Sarah, who is one of the few people in the village who drives, drove to his house to talk to him. He was adamant about marrying them off. Then he saw Sarah’s Jeep and was amazed, because he didn’t think women could drive cars. She took him for a ride and said if he let his daughters go to school they’d end up driving bigger and better cars, and would be able to provide for him.” The girls stayed in school.

Phoebe returned home and wrote a detailed proposal to her family foundation, which her grandparents had established.

Its purpose is to encourage family members to give back to communities for causes in which they believe. Her proposal had three elements: to bring Sarah to the United States to talk at Phoebe’s school; to incorporate a trip to Washington D.C. for Sarah to attend a World Bank Travel Philanthropy Summit on how to incorporate philanthropy into family travel; and to send ten Maasai girls to secondary school. She was awarded funds for all three.

One of AKP’s initiatives is to encourage education, and Phoebe, who loves education, agrees. She says she felt just being in Africa was an education in itself, and opened her eyes to the bonds connecting her to the people she met. “When we were there, there were no distractions,” she says. “I realised how small I am. I’m just part of this huge puzzle.”

felt comfortable, because the Maasai were so warm and welcoming. “In doing something like this you realise how similar we all are. We like a lot of the same things. We care about a lot of the same things. We laugh at the same jokes.”

One of the people he met was Sarah, who impressed Carrigan with her energy and commitment. “She was awesome,” he says. “She would drive four hours just to pick up shower heads.”

Carrigan, now at university, met with Sarah recently. “She told me enrolment at the school has increased since the completion of the bathroom,” he says. “That was so satisfying. It’s awesome to know my efforts helped bring about real, measurable change.”

A&K PHILANTHROPY


OUR SUGGESTED JOURNEY

A&K’s eleven day ‘The Land of the Thunder Dragon’

is priced from $13,645.For more information call A&K on 1300 551 541 or your local

travel agent.

ON THE BACK OF A TIGRESSOne of Bhutan’s most revered monuments, the sacred monastery of Paro Taktsang (Tiger’s Nest) hangs on a precipitous cliff 900m above the valley floor. The monastery gets its name, according to legend, when the father of Tibetan Buddhism, Guru Rinpoche, ascended on the back of a flying tiger in the eighth century. Finding shelter in a series of caves, he meditated for some three years and then set about converting the Bhutanese to Buddhism.

Access is via a winding mountain path through pine forest up to a viewpoint for spectacular views of the monastery and on further to the temple itself which is a more challenging prospect but well worth the effort once reached. The walk takes about two hours with plenty of opportunities along the way to admire the view and catch one’s breath.

Contact A&K or your local travel agent to request your own inspiring philanthropic journey to Africa. To learn more about projects supported by AKP visit akphilanthropy.org

A&K PHILANTHROPY

Annie HallChanging Lives 1,000 Books at a Time

Annie Hall loves music, sings in choir and is learning to play a mean game of tennis. She is looking at colleges and, perhaps more atypically, wants to major in biomedical engineering and ultimately own a biotech company.

She has also travelled internationally and extensively with her parents, who wanted to show her that people everywhere are the same. Her parents also care about philanthropy. “Even when they were little we involved them in our efforts, even if it was just including their names in our projects,” says Annie’s mother Denise.

“We wanted them to develop a sense of philanthropic responsibility.”

When Annie went with her mother, grandmother and cousin on a “girls’ trip” to the Masai Mara, she had what would be a life-changing experience. While on a visit

coordinated by Sarah, she visited a school and heard a little girl read out loud. “She read perfectly,” Annie says.

“I looked for another book for her to read and couldn’t find one. The school had only one book.”

Annie, who loves to read, was so affected by the incident that on returning home she contacted Worldreader, an AKP-assisted organisation that sends sponsored e-readers throughout the world. She began fundraising, contacting close friends, family members and fellow guests from her safari. She has successfully raised over $100,000, enough to send 350 e-readers containing 35,000 books to six schools in the Masai Mara and a school for the deaf and disabled in Tanzania.

And she takes it in her stride. “When you travel, you’re open to a myriad of cultures and identities and you realise everyone is really the same,” she says. “So it’s like helping your neighbours. And helping them makes me feel happy, it makes my heart nice and full.”

BHUTAN

WISH YOU WERE HERE


INDIA

A literary journey through

id you full enjoy?” asks our bus driver after the first morning exploring the narrow lanes of Old Delhi. We did it the local way with bicycle rickshaws, stopping for a sweet creamy lassi served in a clay cup, our noses wrinkling at the drifts of turmeric, chili and coriander

from the spice bazaar. Above are thousands of electric wires and monkeys jumping from roof to roof. You see all sorts on the streets of Delhi: ear cleaners, street dentists (ouch), fortune tellers, shoe shiners, massage wallahs and even your pavement-dwelling barber. Horns are blaring and the Sunday shoppers are pouring in so it’s time for our Abercrombie & Kent Literary Tour group to beat a retreat to the elegant Imperial Hotel. It’s only day one, after all, of our 12-day tour. Ahead lie Agra, Jaipur – and Asia’s pre-eminent literary festival – Udaipur and Mumbai.

I’m too excited to settle, though. This is my first time hosting a special interest tour and our guide Suryaaveer Singh Shaktawat (Sunny for short) asks if I’m hungry. The capital is famous for its sweets and snacks, which often feature in stories written by local authors. A favourite is Manju Kapur who writes about middle-class Delhi. In her novel, Home, all the men in the family work in a jointly-run clothing shop and their lives revolve around “the mid-morning snack, evening snack, feeling stressed snack, visitor snack.” Of course they have “to balance the hot and spicy with the sweet: laddos, barfis, jalebis and kulfis.” Even those Hindi words drip with syrup, just like the sweets themselves.

The first ‘special author day’ I’ve arranged begins in Moghul Delhi, visiting an old haunt - Humayun’s Tomb — where I used to retreat to when I was working in the capital as a journalist. In the weak sunlight the domed cupolas rise out of the winter fog in an unearthly way. Above, brown kites wheel in the thermals and just as I finish telling the group that it was here, in 1857, that the last Mughal Emperor, Bahadur Shah Zafar was taken

From the narrow lanes of Old Delhi to the country’s most famous Moghul

monuments and beyond, author Claire Scobie takes a group of avid

readers on a literary journey through northern India dropping in to the

Jaipur Literature Festival en route.

the domed cupolas rise out of the winter fog in an unearthly way

INDIA


prisoner by the British, an Indian school group arrives filling the serene gardens with youthful chatter. It’s a perfect reminder of the parallel currents in India - the modern alongside the mystical. From there it’s a walk through Lodi Gardens, where Khushwant Singh, one of the city’s most well-known authors, enjoyed early evening walks before a peg of whisky, and then to meet Rana Dasgupta, whose biography of the city, Capital, has the group of Australians riveted. In an art deco apartment, Dasgupta describes the complexities of this ancient and cultured city. “This is not a naive society,” he says. “It has enormous political and philosophical debates around issues. India is changing at a fast, furious pace.”

We’re in Delhi long enough to get our ‘India legs’ on before our next stop — via Rudyard Kipling’s Grand Trunk Road — to Agra and the world’s most famous monument, the Taj Mahal. With Sunny steering our group between the crowds, it’s as if they melt away. Abercrombie & Kent is known for its personable expert guides and Sunny, originally from Udaipur, where his family is minor royalty, is no exception. He recounts the poignant story of how Shah Jahan built the seventeenth-century monument as a tomb for his beloved wife, the emperor’s grief so acute, his coal-black hair turned white overnight.

Reluctantly we leave the opulent Oberoi Amarvilas, with its view over the pearly central dome and four minarets, but the next stop is Fatehpur Sikri, beautifully captured in Kunal Basu’s novel The Miniaturist. In the sixteenth-century Emperor Akbar moved his court from Agra to Fatehpur Sikri, only to abandon it 14 years later, and the rust sandstone buildings are like a preserved snapshot of Moghul India with lime-green parakeets flitting among silent arches.

As we drive west into Rajasthan, the weather warms up and the land becomes drier. Men with red turbans and coiffured handle-bar moustaches stream past on motorbikes; families hang off the back of buses. The turban, with its regal air and brilliant colour, is still de rigueur in Rajasthan, and if you’re unfamiliar with one of the 36 ways to wind it, you can hire a chap to do it for you — as we see during one wedding procession in Jaipur. The majority of Indian weddings are still arranged with astrologers picking the most auspicious dates. It’s wedding season when we arrive in the ‘Pink City’, Rajasthan’s regional capital, and the groom glitters on his white horse while sari-clad women bedecked in gold whoop and cheer around him.

It’s a perfect reminder of the parallel currents in India - the modern alongside the mystical

Taj Mahal

Traditional dancers at Jaipur Literature Festival

Local transport

Street food in Jaipur

Indian Spices


The excitement is contagious as our group dines together in Peshawri, known for its north-west frontier Mughlai cuisine. We all don aprons as you’re encouraged to eat Indian style — with your right hand. Spoons are provided for the signature ‘dal Bukhara’ but a tandoori prawn, scooped in a morsel of flaky roti bread, tastes even better when licked from the fingers.

The next morning is the first day of the Jaipur Literature Festival and the air crackles with expectation in the grounds of the Diggi Palace. Rajasthani dancers twirl and chai-wallahs serving aromatic tea are doing a roaring trade. Indian students vie with international guests to bag seats for the opening address by the witty, sometimes acerbic, Canadian author and Booker prize-winner Margaret Atwood.

“Writing is the means whereby light is shed on darkness,” she begins. “There are many darkness’s, but also many voices.” Over the next two days, in colourful marquees, we hear writers discuss how to navigate modernity and the fate of Afghanistan; Stephen Fry warns of the danger of selfies; British author Alexander McCall Smith, creator of The No. 1 Ladies’ Detective Agency series, has the audience crying with laughter during his session with festival co-founder, and writer, William Dalrymple.It’s unlike any literature festival I’ve been to — and I’ve been to a few. For authors and delegates like ourselves, curry and piping hot

chapattis are served for lunch, followed by rose petal ice cream. In between sessions, Indian school boys mob McCall Smith for his autograph. Patiently he scribbles on pieces of paper until one asks, “Excuse me, sir. What is your good name?”

A day’s sightseeing in Jaipur, to the ‘Palace of the Winds’, ends with another special literary treat when writer and Professor of English at Delhi University, Mala Lal, speaks to us about Indian women writers and the rich tradition of Rajasthani storytelling. As we sit in a circle, with birds chattering and elephants wandering by, everyone is captivated. The power of storytelling never ceases to amaze me.

We leave Jaipur and drive to Udaipur, built around Lake Pichola. Ever since Roger Moore shot the film Octopussy there in 1983, this city has been a popular destination. There’s never a dull moment en route, with Sunny inviting a young boy to practice some magic on the coach. The ten-year-old squats down and makes balls appear and disappear, before plucking out coins from one guest’s ears, to the hilarity of everyone looking on.

The power of storytelling never ceases to amaze me.

Rana Dasgupta

Chai wallah in Jaipur

The Oberoi Udaivilas, Udaipur

Rajasthani puppet dolls


It’s another fairytale arrival at the Oberoi Udaivilas where rose petals rain down as we enter the marbled foyer. More recently, Udaipur has become famous as one of the locations where The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel was shot, and we brush with fame in one textile shop where, like us, Judi Dench bought pashmina scarves. But it’s the miniature paintings inside the City Palace, the sunset cruise on the lake and an invitation to take tea with Sunny’s family at home, that are most memorable.

Udaipur is also the setting for Cuckold, a novel by award-winning Indian author Kiran Nagarkar, so it is fitting that this dapper erudite man, whose conversation ranges from Hindu politics to The Odyssey in one breath, is our last special author experience in Mumbai. By now, everyone’s bags are bursting with books. The Last Mughal by William Dalrymple is a pet-choice, so is Memoirs of a Princess about the last queen of Rajasthan. And even though the 12 days have gone too fast, a few days after coming home, a guest emails me. Dr Noel Grieve is deep into Cuckold. ‘The read is made even more enjoyable by having met the author. It is as if he is reading the words to me!’

As a writer, I know, there’s nothing more special than the intimate relationship you have with your reader; it’s a relationship that exists in the magical space between art and life, and in the mysterious power of the written word.

A&K’s thirteen day ‘India & the Jaipur Literature Festival with

Claire Scobie’ 14-26 January 2017 with prices from $12,695 per person twin share.

For more information call A&K on 1300 551 541 or your local travel agent.


Men with red turbans and coiffured handle-bar moustaches stream past

on motorbikes

Claire Scobie with Mala Lal

A serene moment on tour with A&K

City Palace miniature painting Udaipur City Palace from the lake


BOTSWANA no sudden moves

A once-in-a-lifetime luxury safari in Botswana delivered an enthralling introduction to Africa’s extraordinary

wildlife for Anooska Tucker-Evans and heart-warming cultural encounters.


We’re part of Abercrombie & Kent’s 10-day Botswana Safari in Style tour - an all-inclusive, luxurious way to see some of Africa’s most revered creatures throughout the Okavango Delta, Moremi Game Reserve, Chobe National Park, Victoria Falls and Livingstone.

Staying at high-end accommodation throughout the region, either reached by light aircraft or road, you’ll get all the joy of being in the wild while still having access to a hairdryer, minibar and even someone to do your laundry.

Our adventure kicks off in the north of Botswana, in the Okavango Delta region. As the light plane touches down on a small, dirt airstrip we’re greeted by three warthogs. “Pumbaa,” one of the locals says, pointing to the pig-like critters in reference to the warthog character in the Disney classic The Lion King.

We head straight to our first camp, Sanctuary Stanley’s, which features posh tent-like accommodation, spotting more warthogs and impala on the way before sitting down to lunch - the first meal of what will become an abundance of food over the next week or so. All meals are included in the trip, which means breakfast, morning tea, lunch, afternoon tea, sundowner drinks and snacks, and dinner. And with lunch and dinner often three-course or buffet affairs, you’ll need to pack your elastic-waisted pants.

After lunch, it’s off for more animal spotting – a game drive on board an open four-wheel-drive vehicle.

Just a few hundred metres from the camp, we stop and Ali - our guide for the duration of the tour - jumps out of the vehicle and picks up a mass of dry, grassy poo. “You know what animal this is from?” he asks holding it up. It’s from an elephant, he explains, revealing a wealth of information about their diet, type of stomach and bowel movements. We stop again a few metres down the road where he shows us giraffe droppings. “We have spitting competitions to see who can spit them (the droppings) the furthest,” Ali jokes.

This is the African sense of humour - cheeky, playful and ever-present, so expect plenty of laughs.

e’ve been quietly sitting in a medium-sized tin boat watching two elephants play in the water, a third standing by on the river bank, a mere 10 metres in front of us. The two in the water tussle, locking tusks as they dunk each other under the surface like young brothers wrestling over who gets to play with a new

toy. Then the slightly more vicious of the two gives up, allowing the other to frolic freely in the cooling river. Now this is what an African Safari is all about.

WAs the light plane touches down on a small, dirt airstrip we’re greeted

by three warthogs

BOTSWANA & ZAMBIA

Okavango Delta from the air

Mokoro experience Okavango Delta

Sanctuary Stanley’s Camp

On safari


That afternoon we spy elephants roaming the lush, green landscape, more warthogs, red lechwe (local antelope), and a host of indigenous birds. When the sun sets we’re taken to the den of a group of spotted hyenas. A large mother lies on the dirt, her cubs venturing close to our vehicle.

The Lion King has given these creatures a bad name. Unlike the scrawny, emaciated versions in the movie, these guys are fluffy and cute, resembling a cross between a bear and a dog.

The next day we see giraffes, the hyenas by day, impalas, monkeys, baboons and a herd of zebras before taking a mokoro ride in the afternoon. A mokoro is a dugout canoe, traditionally made from the wood of sausage trees, used by locals to navigate their way through the swollen waterways of the Okavango Delta. Ours are made from fibreglass and are controlled by one of the guides who stands up, gently steering it across the shallow waters using a long paddle.

While we’re warned the lily-topped waters are home to crocodiles and hippos, the only creature we see is a small reed frog. The relaxing activity ends with drinks and snacks watching the sun set over the marshy plains.

The next morning we head into the bush for a unique elephant experience. Jabu, Thembi and Morula are three semi-habituated orphaned elephants rescued from certain death by American husband and wife team Doug and Sandi Groves. The two now run the Living with Elephants Foundation – a charity dedicated to creating harmonious relationships between people and elephants. The pair is a wealth of knowledge on the giant mammals and shares this information with you as you walk side-by-side with

the elephants, touching their trunks, seeing how they sleep, even receiving a kiss from one of them. The couple is extremely passionate about their animal “family” and having lunch with them as the elephants watch on is a special experience.

The afternoon sees us move to beautiful Belmond Khwai River Lodge located on the edge of the Moremi Wildlife Game Reserve. With a new location brings new animals. From our comfortable timber treehouse-style room we watch two hippos peacefully coast down the Khwai River, and hear a lion calling – a reverberating deep moan; while a game drive includes hippos, zebra, impala, kudu (antelope) and waterbuck.

Dinner at the lodge is a feast of local delicacies, including antelope and crocodile, ending with an entertaining song and dance number by the camp’s staff.

This is the African sense of humour - cheeky, playful and ever-present, so expect plenty of laughs.

A leopard sighting

Lilac Breasted Roller

Southern yellow-billed hornbill

Belmond Khwai River Lodge

Big game in the Okavango Delta

Belmond Khwai River Lodge

Hippo up-close


The next day we convince one of the Belmond guides to take us into the local village for a look around. We meet some of his friends, get a lesson in the local dialect, and are shown the art of African basket making. It’s an enlightening and welcome change to the animal spotting.

The afternoon has us boarding another light plane to our next camp, Sanctuary Chobe Chilwero on Chief’s Island in the Mombo Concession of the Moremi Game Reserve. The landscape here is sublimely different to that of our last two stops. Being an island, hippos and crocodiles are the main attraction, and aboard our two-storey boat is the best way to see them.

With the sun setting, we cruise around enjoying drinks and snacks, watching hippos play, elephants feed on the water grasses, and baby crocs scurry around on the island’s bank.

Our day ends with another three-course feast back at camp (pants becoming seriously tight now) and a performance from a local youth dance group. They showcase traditional dances that will leave you exhausted just watching them, let alone joining in.

Baboons and monkeys are the big attractions the next day. We see several troops of baboons during our game drives, while a cheeky group of monkeys attempts to steal our food as we break for morning tea. With all the meals we’ve been eating, they’re quite welcome to it, but muffins and cakes aren’t good for monkeys and the guides chase them away.

The next day it’s off to Zimbabwe to visit the famous Victoria Falls. You’ll be given raincoats to wear – and you’ll need them - as you walk along the paths, learning about the UNESCO World Heritage site’s discovery by Scottish explorer David Livingstone and tales from the infamous bungee jump. The spray from the Zambezi River as it crashes over the edge of the falls is enough to soak you to your core, but the drowning is worth it to experience the incredible power and beauty of this natural wonder. What’s even more stunning, though, is the view from the Zambia side, which we experience the following day. The Zimbabwean side shows how the thousands of tonnes of water weave through the gorges and offers a better sighting of the Victoria Falls Bridge, but the scene from the Zambian border is more panoramic, allowing you to take in the full wall of water as it dramatically spills over the rocks. It’s wet, wild and a lot of fun.

The afternoon brings a special visit to see the almost extinct white rhino. With these prized creatures still the target of poachers, they are kept in a parcel of land monitored by armed guards. Security clearance is, however, given to special tour groups like ours, and we’re able to watch two of the slow, seemingly-docile animals from no more than 20m away. It’s an once-in-a-lifetime experience, just like all the adventures along the trip, with each encounter guaranteed to stay with you forever.

That afternoon we spy elephants roaming the lush, green landscape, more warthogs, red lechwe … and

a host of indigenous birds

Abercrombie & Kent’s 10 day Luxury Small Group Journey ‘Botswana Safari in Style’ has departures year-round

for a maximum 16 guests.Prices from USD9,890 per person twin share.



Sanctuary Chobe Chilwero Victoria Falls - The smoke that thunders

White Rhino

Sunset cruise on the Chobe River


FOR THE LOVE OF NATURE

There’s no place quite like the amazing Galapagos Islands, but the wildlife and natural wonders that make

this destination so special are just some of the ecological delights in store in Ecuador, as Joanna Tovia discovers.


he minute we clamber out of the zodiac and onto shore, I feel like I’ve stepped into a wildlife documentary. A large, male sea lion heaves his bulk out of the sea and flops up the hillside alongside us as we make our way up the pathway. It’s disconcerting how close he is and,

not knowing the finer points of sea lion behaviour, it’s difficult to predict what he’s going to do next. Is he being aggressive when he positions himself majestically on a flat, sunny rock and twists his head this way and that, or just posing for the cameras?

He’s not posing at all, of course, he’s just going about his day unaware that the bright blue ocean behind him forms the perfect backdrop for a postcard-perfect photo opportunity.

We’ve joined a day tour of about 20 people, one of whom is lugging a gigantic zoom lens almost the length of his arm – a decision he is surely regretting. On North Seymour Island, one of 13 major Galapagos Island, the wildlife is so close you could reach out and touch it and you have to look where you’re stepping lest you disturb a dancing blue-footed booby, sunbathing iguana or young frigate bird testing out its wings.

Seeing these creatures up close is an incredible experience but it’s all the more special because they’re so trusting of humans. For all the catastrophic damage people do to ecosystems and wildlife around the world, this is one place that makes me feel proud –

here, the goodness of humankind is reflected in each animal’s confidence that we pose no threat to them or their young.

We take our time trailing Diego on the dirt track that winds its way around the island – this is a precious experience not to be rushed – as giant-winged birds soar above, their graceful black forms in silhouette against a bright sky. They swoop down low over our heads at times, before landing in the silver-grey Palo Santo trees or veering back into the air. Again, their behaviour has nothing to do with us – it’s an elaborate mating ritual as females carefully select who they want to father their children. The available males are easy to spot from the air – their enormous throat pouches are bright red and those who’ve puffed them up are the eligible bachelors.

Blue-footed boobies in the market for a mate are busy strutting their stuff, too – the males lift their blue feet up and down, duck and turn around in a mesmerising mating dance; those with the bluest feet are considered the most handsome.

T the wildlife is so close you could reach out and touch it

ECUADOR

Heading ashore by Zodiac

Marine Iguana

Sealions close up

Galapagos tortoise

Frigatebird

Blue-footed boobies


CHARLES DARWIN AT WORKOne of the most interesting things about visiting the Galapagos is learning how Charles Darwin pondered theories of natural selection right here 200 years ago. The conclusions he later came to about evolution were drawn from his studies here, and would change our understanding of life on earth forever.

Three cold-water currents converge on the Galapagos and trade winds mean the land that faces south is green and lush, but any north-facing islands are dry and barren – it was the perfect spot for Darwin to study how different species evolved in isolation from one another. Mockingbirds, in particular, captured his attention and he collected specimens from each island to compare them.

As for humans, the Galapagos was first run as a penal colony but is now home to 25,000 people committed to preserving the precious wildlife populating their islands.

WOWED BY WILDLIFEWe’ve managed to spend the whole morning dawdling along the 2.5km path circling North Seymour Island so when we reboard the boat, it’s time to fuel up for more adventure on the island of Santa Cruz, a prime spot for snorkeling.

Pikaia Lodge, the luxury eco hotel where we’re staying, has provided wetsuits for us, but most of us go without – the water is a

wonderful way to cool down after walking in search of flamingoes in the hot sun. The flamingoes prove elusive until day’s end when the guide spots a solitary flamingo feeding on the far side of a freshwater lagoon. Its feathers are so pink I wonder if I’m looking at the plastic garden variety but its rubbery neck soon stretches into the water in search of food before rising back up to its s-shaped splendour. I sit happily on the water’s edge for almost an hour as it makes its way slowly, slowly around the lagoon edge until it’s just metres from my poised lens.

Perched on an often misty hillside, Pikaia Lodge is a cool and contemporary member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World. Luxury tour operator Abercrombie & Kent has arranged our stay here, as well as the activities, hotels, meals and transport throughout our Ecuadorian adventure – it is, quite simply, a most pleasurable way to travel.

Like the other 13 rooms at Pikaia Lodge, mine is spacious and modern with sweeping views over the plains below us and ocean beyond. The same views can be admired from the infinity pool, restaurant or Jacuzzi, a lovely place to watch the vista shift and change as the clouds move and cast shadows over the plain or the fog rolls in.

While many people choose to explore the Galapagos on a cruise, these newly built digs provide a fabulous land-based alternative to get away from it all.

We head to the tiny town of Puerta Ayora early the next morning to visit the giant tortoises being bred at the Charles Darwin Research Centre. Scientists from all over the world continue to be captivated by the Galapagos – the mysteries of these unique islands are far from solved. Be sure to buy souvenirs from the Research Centre gift shop rather than solely in the neighbouring town; it’s the only one that directly funds the Centre’s research.

In the afternoon we don gumboots to explore El Chato Ranch, a former cattle station that’s now a private ecological reserve populated by Tortuga de las Galápagos, the giant tortoises after which the islands were named. From a distance, these grass-munching curiosities look like dinosaur eggs plonked in a field of green. Up close, they’re not pretty (they bear an uncanny resemblance to ET) but are intriguing nonetheless: they live more than 100 years, sleep more than 17 hours a day, have a resting heart rate of 3-4 beats a minute, and take their time when copulating – the deed takes about four hours.

here, the goodness of humankind is reflected in each animal’s

confidence that we pose no threat to them or their young

Flamingo

Sweeping views at Pikaia Lodge

Pikaia Lodge, Galapagos

Pikaia Lodge by night

Charles Darwin Research Station


INTO THE CLOUD FORESTOur visit to the Galapagos is over too soon and we’ve all but scratched the surface. Fortunately, more delights await us on the mainland. After an overnight stay at the impossibly beautiful Casa Gangotena hotel in Quito (the highest capital city in the world), we drive four hours north to Mashpi Lodge, crossing the equator and visiting a volcano as we go. Built in the middle of the cloud forest between the Andes and the coast, Mashpi is a dream destination for anyone wanting to immerse themselves in the bio-diverse wonders of Ecuador.

This eco lodge, one of National Geographic’s Unique Lodges of the World, has 22 understated but luxurious rooms in a striking, ultra-contemporary building surrounded by green. The food is fabulous and the lodge manages to achieve the perfect balance of friendliness and streamlined professionalism. The many walks and activities on offer out in the forest are superbly organised, the personable guides are scientists, and the pace is spot on.

Each day we head out, our gumboots (correct size and all) are ready for us, picnics appear out of nowhere, and we relish the adventure of tramping along tracks deep in the forest to birdwatch, swim under waterfalls or ride an aerial bike high suspended over the forest canopy (or attempt to, in my case – it’s 60 metres above the ground and I back-pedalled back to base a few minutes into the ride when I fail to overcome my fear of heights!).

I rejoice in the wonder of hundreds of lovelies fluttering all around in the butterfly house. Alongside, a wide timber verandah overlooks a forest that’s home to sloths, pumas and monkeys. We’ve risen early to be here and I’m so glad we did. We spy toucans in the trees and squirrel-like agouti, spend hours meandering among butterflies sporting luminous colours and clever disguises, and feast on a breakfast spread as delicious as the meals we’ve been enjoying back at the lodge.

It’s a shock to re-enter civilisation after an eco-adventure like this one, but I know it’s an experience I’ll treasure far into the future, as anyone would who embarks on this once-in-a-lifetime adventure.

This feature was first published in Signature Travel & Style January 2016.

we relish the adventure of tramping along tracks deep in the forest to birdwatch, swim under waterfalls or ride an aerial bike

A&K’s 9 day ‘Ecuador & the Galapagos Islands’ is priced from $12,180 per person twin share.



Mashpi LodgeMashpi Lodge

An aerial bike ride through the canopy

Hummingbird

Waterfall in the cloud forest


CaravansA country more exotic and enticing is hard to find. Long a destination for intrepid

travellers and sybarites alike, Morocco blends the best of Arab civilisation with an appealing climate and some of the world’s most dreamy hotels. On this journey take

in the fascinating history of imperial Fes, the mysterious Kasbahs of the Dades Valley, A&K’s exclusive desert camp and the charms of Marrakech.

Day 1: Arrive Casablanca. Arrive to a warm welcome and a private transfer to your hotel. Hyatt Regency Casablanca Day 2: Casablanca – Fes. After an orientation tour of Casablanca head east via Rabat to the historic city of Fes, the largest living medieval medina-city and cultural heart of Morocco. Palais Faraj Day 3: Fes. A private city tour today starts in the World Heritage listed medina. Continue to New Fes to see the Royal Palace, mosques, medersas (schools), bustling souks and the old city wall. Tonight there is an option to learn more about Andalusian architecture and history with a private lecture and dinner at Riad Dar Anebar. Palais Faraj Day 4: Volubilis & Meknes. Visit Meknes, another of the imperial cities, and the ruined Roman city of Volubilis. Palais Faraj Day 5: Fes – Erfoud. Travel to Erfoud, a small oasis town on the edge of the desert enjoying scenic views along the way. Your hotel is located close to some of the country’s largest and most spectacular dunes. Kasbah Hotel Chergui Day 6: Erfoud - Erg Chebbi. Travel to the fortified town of Rissani, the beginning of the desert. Continue by 4WD to A&K’s exclusive tented camp located in the shadow of the Erg Chebbi Dunes in a remote area of the Sahara. Accommodation here is in richly decorated Caidale tents complete with hot water and flush toilets. Head off on a camel ride to explore the dunes and return to camp in time for dinner by the camp fire. A&K Desert Camp

Day 7: Erg Chebbi – Skoura. Travel through the Dades Valley on the Road of 1000 Kasbahs to Skoura, in the foothills of the Atlas. Dar Ahlam Day 8: Skoura. Relax at the hotel, a converted 19th century Kasbah, or explore the Palmeraie. Dar Ahlam Day 9: Skoura – Marrakech. Travel to Marrakech stopping en route in Ouarzazate and the UNESCO listed fortified city Ait Benhaddou, one of the best preserved kasbah-towns in the Atlas and location for many feature films. Villa Des Orangers Day 10: Marrakech. Wander through the city’s most important souks including Souk Smarine, a maze of colourful alleys with an array of stalls and ateliers. Visit some of the city’s beautiful gardens and palaces and wind up in famous Djemaa el-Fna Square. Soak up the vibrant atmosphere – snake charmers, musicians, storytellers, acrobats and stalls of dried fruit, nuts and orange juice vendors. Villa Des Orangers Day 11: Marrakech. A day at leisure with the use of a driver and guide. Villa Des Orangers Day 12: Depart Marrakech. Transfer to the airport where the journey ends.

Planning Your TripWHENThe most comfortable time to travel to Morocco is during spring (April/May) although September to December is also pleasant. In the desert, summer temperatures can be extreme while winter nights can be cold.

HOWAirlines connecting Australia with Morocco include Emirates, Etihad Airways and Qatar Airways. With A&K, touring and transfers are operated on a private basis with private English speaking guides conducting all sightseeing.

WHATA&K’s 12 day ‘Kasbahs & Caravans’ is priced from $12,915 per person.

FOR MORE INFOPlease call A&K on 1300 551 541 or your local travel agent.

A JOURNEY IN PICTURES

Kasbahs &


GANGTEY GOENPA BHUTAN

Six hours from the nearest airport and a million miles

from civilisation. That is Gangtey Goenpa, a new luxe

lodge from the couple that brought ballooning to

Myanmar. With a spectacular setting the lodge boasts

sweeping views over the beautiful Gangtey Valley in

remote central Bhutan. Winter home to the rare and

graceful black-necked crane these migratory birds

roost in the valley with a special festival held each

November in their honour.

JACK’S CAMP BOTSWANA

In the heart of the ancient Makgadikgadi salt pans of

Botswana lies a jewel in the safari crown. Jack’s Camp

is reminiscent of old Africa – 1940s style khaki canvas

tents adorned with Persian rugs, campaign furniture

and four-poster beds, under a canopy of fan palms.

The surrounding landscape is savagely beautiful with

an unexpected wealth of wildlife and Bushman culture.

TOP 10

Whether it takes several plane trips to get there, a 10 hour drive on bumpy roads or river-only access, sometimes the destination merits the journey. In the case of these hard to reach lodgings you’ll be far away from the everyday but richly

rewarded with unique experiences in unforgettable settings.

THE MADDING CROWDFAR FROM

“The Land of the Thunder Dragon”

FEATURES IN A&K’S

“Delta to Desert”

FEATURES IN A&K’S

Chamba Camp , Ladakh


TOP 10

EOLO ARGENTINA

Set on a 3,000 hectare estancia in the seemingly

desolate steppe of southern Patagonia, Eolo is a world

away from the sophisticated Argentine capital. The

lodge sits in comfortable solitude on a grassy plain in

a vast landscape and offers every luxury to privileged

guests. Rooms are simple yet stylish with crisp white

sheets and big fluffy eiderdowns, sisal carpets and

brightly coloured rugs and there’s a host of outdoor

adventures right on the doorstep.

DAR AHLAM MOROCCO

Between the Atlas Mountains and the Sahara Desert

and over four hours away from Marrakech is the

stunning Dar Ahlam in Morocco’s Dades Valley.

This elegant hotel in the palm oasis of Skoura is

converted from a 19th century Kasbah with whimsical

interiors and individually decorated rooms which

are spacious with fireplaces for chilly desert nights,

roomy bathrooms and spectacular views of the Atlas

Mountains. Meal times are a surprise with a different

and dramatic location each time.

BULLO RIVER STATION NORTHERN TERRITORY

In a remote part of N.T. most easily reached by charter

flight from Darwin, is Bullo River Station - 500,000

acres of privately owned pastoral country near the

Western Australian border in the East Kimberley.

There are just 12 simply styled rooms in quarters close

to the homestead and an adventure experience par

excellence with croc spotting, barramundi fishing, rock

art viewing, quad biking, cattle mustering, helicopter

trips to remote gorges and more.

GREYSTOKE MAHALE TANZANIA

This extraordinary camp in the remote west of Tanzania

is on the shores of Lake Tanganyika and at the edge

of the Mahale Mountains. Sustainably built from the

reclaimed wood of retired dhows sourced from villages

along the lakeshore and thatch from palm trees outside

the national park, the camp is rustic chic at its best.

This is the place to track chimps in their natural habitat

– a humbling experience.

“Argentine Reflections” “Australia’s Top End”

FEATURES IN A&K’S FEATURES IN A&K’S

“Kasbahs & Caravans” “Chimps of Mahale”

FEATURES IN A&K’S FEATURES IN A&K’S

TOP 10


TOP 10

MASSERIA DON LUIGI ITALY

Puglia in the heel of Italy is often overlooked in favour of

the well-trodden regions of Tuscany and the Italian Lakes

but this is unspoiled Italy where life passes at an unhurried

pace and where there are architectural treasures

and breathtaking landscapes aplenty. The charming

farmhouse of Masseria Don Luigi is your best base for

exploring. It’s fresh, bright, white décor is classically

Apulian and home cooked cuisine is a highlight.

CHAMBA CAMP LADAKH

In the staunchly Buddhist and high Himalayan region

of Ladakh, this colonial-style tented camp sits at

3400m above sea level. The elegant white canvas

tents are perfectly kitted out with four-poster beds,

en suite bathrooms, campaign style furniture, timber

floors and hand-loomed rugs with a butler on call

24/7. Though remote, WiFi access is unlimited (and

free) and an organic garden supplies produce for the

table. Activities include trekking, rafting, polo, archery,

croquet and more.

THREE CAMEL LODGE MONGOLIA

The remoteness of the Gobi Desert is the best place to

experience traditional Mongolian hospitality when you

stay at this unique eco-lodge comprising 20 traditional

Mongolian felt tents. Each ger is simply constructed

with a lattice frame supporting layers of felt and canvas

with wood-fired stoves for heating, hand-painted beds,

local furnishings and private basin and WC. Each

one also faces south - a nomadic Mongolian tradition

providing unobstructed views of the majestic desert

and the Gobi-Altai Mountains.

PAKBENG LODGE LAOS

Sitting on the banks of the great Mekong River,

Pakbeng Lodge is located midway between the World

Heritage Town of Luang Prabang and Huay Xai, the

main border crossing between northern Thailand and

Laos. Accessible only from the river, it will take a day

to travel here from Chiang Rai in Thailand. The lodge

is traditionally Lao in style with simple but elegant

furnishings, rich timber floors and Mekong views.

“Food & Walks in Puglia and Amalfi”

“Nomads & Gers”

FEATURES IN A&K’S

FEATURES IN A&K’S

“Nature, Festivals & Photography”

“Mountains to the Mekong”FEATURES IN A&K’S

FEATURES IN A&K’S

TOP 10


Notes from the field

Since his children were small, A&K Product Manager John Saporito dreamed of taking the family to India. Just returned from the subcontinent, John shares some of the family’s favourite experiences from south to north.

MAKE LIKE A MAHARAJAHEven though more than a million people visit Jaipur’s Amber Fort each year it’s a must see. Perched impressively on a jagged ridge outside Jaipur, the well preserved palace-cum-fort dates to the early 18th century and is mesmerisingly beautiful. The views from up top are breathtaking.

TAKE TO THE SKIESGently floating over traditional Rajasthani villages at dawn in a hot air balloon was one of life’s most unforgettable moments. Drifting quietly over the rooftops we watched the villagers as they woke, cooking on the rooftops and getting ready for the day ahead. Smiling faces appeared from everywhere to wave us on.

SUBLIME SPICEThe cuisine of Goa in India’s south has been influenced by an exotic blend of sea, spices and foreign traders which means delicious snacks, fantastic fish and modern fusion are all on offer. The combination of coconut and fish is sublime and one of the standout meals was a prawn Balchão, originally brought to Goa by the Portuguese. A less spicy version was produced for the girls!

HOME COOKINGKeen in the kitchen, Lucy and Grace were enthralled by the cooking class in Delhi. We were welcomed into Neha Gupta’s home where she introduced us to the many spices used in Indian cuisine. We chatted to her about her way of life as she demonstrated the secrets of a fragrant lamb curry, dhal and roti. A delicious lunch awaited!

INDIA CHARM

NOTES FROM THE FIELD

A&K’s ten day ‘Royal Rajasthan’ is priced from $6,385A&K’s four day ‘Goa Extension’ is priced from $2,000





OUR SUGGESTED JOURNEY

A&K’s 27 day ‘Costa Rica to the Caribbean’ cruise tour 7 March–2 April

2017 is priced from $29,995.

For more information call A&K on 1300 551 541 or your local

travel agent.

RESPLENDENT QUETZALFound in the Volcan Poas National Park of Costa Rica, the endangered Resplendent Quetzal has an iridescent plumage of emerald green and blue. Its habitat is damp mountain forests where it is most active in the canopy and on the forest edge. The male’s legendary tail feathers can be up to a metre long and their diet consists mostly of avocado, figs plus insects, small frogs, snails and lizards. The bird get its water from the base of bromeliads. In Costa Rica they may be found at elevations from 1,300m to 3,000m.

COSTA RICA

Pharomachrus Mocinno

NOTES FROM THE FIELD

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