INSTRUCTIONS FOR MODDING BOSS BD-2 TO THE KEELEY PHAT MOD SPECS. LOCATION MOD VALUE C1, C15, C6, C13, C7, C12

(6) 10UF TANTALUM

C14,C34

(2) .1UF METAL FILM

C36, C35

(2) .047 METAL FILM

C20, C25

(2) 100PF SILVER MICA

C21, C23

(2) 47PF SILVER MICA

C26

(1) 220PF SILVER MICA

(D7 D8) & D3

(2) 1N4002 DIODE

RED LED

(1) CLEAR LED (LIGHTS UP BLUE)

C100 (ON TONE POT CIRCUITBOARD)

(1) .033UF, (1) .068UF & (1) SWITCH

STEP 1 - REMOVING THE BOARD DISCLAIMER: THESE MODS REQUIRE TOOLS NOT PROVIDED WITHIN THE KIT; SUCH AS A SOLDERING IRON, SOLDER, DRILL, DRILL BIT, WRENCHES, SCREWDRIVER, AND THE ABILITY TO SOLDER AND DE-SOLDER. IF AFTER REVIEWING THE INSTRUCTIONS YOU FEEL YOU CANNOT COMPLETE THE MOD, CONTACT US FOR INSTALLATION WERE HAPPY TO ASSIST AT ANYTIME AND PROVIDE E-MAIL SUPPORT IF YOU SHOULD RUN INTO TROUBLE. THE COLORS OF THE REPLACEMENT CAPS ARE PROVIDED FOR REFERENCE ONLY WE GET PARTS FROM DIFFERENT SUPPLIERS AND TRY TO PROVIDE THE MOST ACCURATE INFORMATION AVAILABLE. 1. USE A FLAT HEAD SCREWDRIVER, PRY OFF THE KNOBS AND UNSCREW THE NUTS THAT SECURE THE POTS 2. REMOVE THE NUTS ON THE INPUT JACKS 3. REMOVE THE FOUR SCREWS ON THE BASE PLATE 5. REMOVE THE SCREW THAT HOLDS THE LED TO THE TOP OF THE PEDAL 6. FROM THE INSIDE OF THE PEDAL, PUSH THE SWITCH OUT OF THE BD-2 7. THE SWITCH WILL EASILY COME APART. CAREFULLY SEPARATE THE TABS AND LIFT UP. YOU CAN ALSO UNSOLDER IT FROM THE WIRES. I DISASSEMBLE MINE BE CAREFUL NOT TO LOSE THE SPRING. YOU SHOULD NOW BE ABLE TO COMPLETELY REMOVE THE CIRCUIT FROM THE HOUSING. STEP 2 CHANGING THE COMPONENTS

1. C1, C15, C6, C13, C7, C12 ALL OF THESE CAPACITORS ARE ALL LOCATED IN THE TOP HALF OF THE CIRCUIT BOARD AND LOOK LIKE LITTLE BLACK BATTERIES. REMOVE ALL SIX AND DISCARD THEM. THE REPLACEMENT TANTALUM CAPS ARE POLARIZED, MEANING THEY HAVE A POSITIVE AND NEGATIVE SIDE. LOOK FOR A LITTLE + LOCATED OVER ONE OF THE LEADS TO INDICATE THAT IT IS THE POSITIVE LEAD. ON THE CIRCUIT BOARD WHEN YOU REMOVE THE CAPACITORS, YOU WILL SEE THAT ONE OF THE TWO HOLES WILL HAVE A CIRCLE AROUND IT. THAT IS THE NEGATIVE POLE.

2. C14, C34 THE STOCK CAPS ARE SILVER. THE REPLACEMENT CAPS ARE MAROON IN COLOR AND HAVE THE NUMBER 104 PRINTED ON THEM. REMOVE STOCK CAPACITORS AND REPLACE.

3. C36, C35 THE STOCK CAPS ARE SILVER AND ARE LOCATED AT THE BOTTOM OF THE BOARD. THE REPLACEMENT CAPS COULD BE BLUE SQUARE TYPE, OR MAROON WITH THE NUMBER 473 WRITTEN ON IT. REMOVE STOCK CAPACITORS AND REPLACE.

4. C20, C25, C21, C23, C26

ALL OF THESE STOCK CAPACITORS ARE LOCATED IN THE BOTTOM HALF OF THE CIRCUIT BOARD. THEY ARE CERAMIC CAPS AND ARE ORANGE IN COLOR. THE REPLACEMENT CAPS ARE TYPICALLY DARK IN COLOR OR BLACK, SILVER MICA AND WILL HAVE THE NUMBERS 100, 47 OR (220 OR 221) PRINTED ON THEM.

5. DIODES:

CLEAR LED: REMOVE THE STOCK, RED LED. KEEP THE WHITE SPACER AS YOU WILL USE IT WHEN INSTALLING THE REPLACEMENT LED. DO NOT TEST THE LEDS WITH A 9 VOLT BATTERY. IT WILL RUIN THE LED. THE LED IS POLARIZED. THE LONGER LEAD (POSITIVE) IS SOLDERED ONTO THE SAME SIDE AS THE RED/ORANGE WIRE. THE NEGATIVE LEAD IS SOLDERED TO THE SAME SIDE AS THE GREEN WIRE.

6. (D7-D8) & D3

THESE DIODES HAVE A SILVER BAND OR STRIPE AROUND ONE END. WHEN YOU REMOVE THE STOCK DIODES, YOU WILL SEE A SYMBOL PRINTED ON THE CIRCUIT BOARD. SEE FIGURE 1. THE ARROW POINTS TO THE SIDE WHERE THE STRIPE OF THE DIODE SHOULD BE SOLDERED. D3 IS JUST BELOW THE CHIP. REMOVE AND REPLACE THE STOCK DIODE. LOOK AT THE FIGURE 1. THERE IS ONLY ONE DIODE SOLDERED ACROSS D7 AND D8.

FIG. 1

7. SWITCH (READ STEPS A-F BEFORE STARTING STEP 7)

a. REMOVE STOCK CAP AND INSTALL .033 CAP IN C 100

b. DRILL THE HOLE FOR THE SWITCH USING A DRILL BIT. MAKE SURE THE SWITCH WILL NOT INTERFERE

WITH THE JACKS OR POTS DURING REASSEMBLY.

c. THE SWITCH HAS THREE SOLDER LUGS OFF OF THE BOTTOM OF IT. SOLDER A SHORT LENGTH OF WIRE TO THE OUTSIDE LUG. (SEE FIGURE 2). FIG. 2

d. SOLDER ONE LEAD FROM THE .068UF CAPACITOR (IT IS MAROON IN COLOR AND HAS 683 PRINTED ON IT)

TO CENTER LUG. SEE FIGURE 2. BE CAREFUL TO NOT OVERHEAT THE SWITCH! ONCE ITS OVERHEATED ITS RUINED.

e. SOLDER THE WIRE FROM STEP (8.C) TO THE OTHER SIDE OF C100. (SEE FIGURE 2)

f. SOLDER OTHER LEAD FROM .068 TO THE OTHER SIDE OF C100. (SEE FIGURE 2)

8. REASSEMBLE AND THATS IT. NOTE: THE PHAT SWITCH ADDS BASS TONE AND IS SUBTLE YOU MAY NOT NOTICE A HUGE DIFFERENCE IN PHAT MODE. TROUBLE SHOOTING:

THE BLUE LED DOES NOT LIGHT UP CHECK TO MAKE SURE IT WAS INSTALLED CORRECTLY AND THE SOLDER JOINTS. LEDS CAN GET OVERHEATED SO IT COULD HAVE BEEN COOKED.

NO OUTPUT (LIGHT COMES ON) CHECK TO MAKE SURE NOTHING IS GROUNDING OUT. THE JACKS HAVE METAL SOLDER LUGS, IF DURING ASSEMBLY THE LUGS ARE TOUCHING THE METAL CASING, YOU WILL NOT GET ANY OUTPUT. DID YOU COOK THE SWITCH? THE SWITCH LUGS CAN ONLY TAKE SO MUCH HEAT FOR SO LONG. IF YOU COOKED THEM YOU MIGHT NEED A NEW SWITCH.

SOUNDS FUNNY: CHECK YOUR SOLDER JOINTS (MAKE SURE ALL THE COMPONENTS WERE PUT IN THE RIGHT SPOT).

HIGH PITCHED NOISE: IT COULD BE YOUR POWER SUPPLY OR A BAD DIODE. THE DIODES CAN BE OVERHEATED. MOST OF THESE PARTS CAN BE FOUND AT RADIO SHACK IF YOU SHOULD RUIN THE SWITCH, LED OR DIODE.

IF YOU DO NOT CHECK THE PEDAL BETWEEN STEPS MY ASSISTANCE WILL BE LIMITED AS IT WILL BE IMPOSSIBLE TO KNOW WHERE OR WHEN THE PROBLEM OCCURRED. TESTING THE PEDAL BETWEEN STEPS TAKES A LONG TIME, BUT, IF THE MOD DOESNT WORK IT CAN TAKE HOURS TO DIAGNOSE THE PROBLEM.

A GOOD TESTING SCHEDULE WOULD BE AFTER STEP 3, 5 AND 6. IF IT ALL WORKS, MOVE ONTO THE SWITCH!