WARRANTY

Great Planes® Model Manufacturing Co. guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. Thiswarranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Great Planes’ liability exceed the original cost of thepurchased kit. Further, Great Planes reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.

In that Great Planes has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor accepted for anydamage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the user-assembled product, the user accepts allresulting liability.

If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer is advised to return this kit immediately in new andunused condition to the place of purchase.

To make a warranty claim send the defective part or item to Hobby Services at the address below:

Hobby Services3002 N. Apollo Dr., Suite 1

Champaign, IL 61822USA

Include a letter stating your name, return shipping address, as much contact information as possible (daytime telephone number, fax number, e-mailaddress), a detailed description of the problem and a photocopy of the purchase receipt. Upon receipt of the package the problem will be evaluated asquickly as possible.

READ THROUGH THIS MANUAL BEFORE STARTINGCONSTRUCTION. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANTINSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNINGTHE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.

GPMZ0197 for GPMA1224 V1.0Entire Contents © Copyright 2005

Champaign, IL(217) 398-8970, Ext. 5

airsupport@greatplanes.com

INSTRUCTION MANUAL

Wingspan: 80.5 in [2045mm]Wing Area: 1518 sq in [97.9 dm2] Weight: 13-15 lb [5900–6800g]Wing Loading: 20–23 oz/sq ft [61–70 g/dm2]Length: 54.5 in [1385mm]Radio: 4 or 5-channel, 7 to 8 servosEngine: 1.2–1.6 cu in [19.5–26.0cc] two-stroke,

1.2–1.8 cu in [19.5–29.5cc] four-stroke,1.5–2.1 cu in [25–35cc] gas

™

INTRODUCTION ................................................................2AMA ...................................................................................2IMAA ..................................................................................3SAFETY PRECAUTIONS ..................................................3DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE ........................................3

Engine Recommendations...........................................3Fuel Tank Setup ...........................................................4Spinner.........................................................................4Building Stand..............................................................4Flap & Aileron Setup....................................................4Radio Equipment .........................................................4

ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED .....................................5Hardware & Accessories .............................................5Adhesives & Building Supplies ....................................5Optional Supplies & Tools............................................5

IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES.......................................5ORDERING REPLACEMENT PARTS ...............................6METRIC CONVERSIONS ..................................................6KIT INSPECTION...............................................................7PREPARATIONS................................................................8ASSEMBLE THE WINGS ..................................................8

Mount the Servos.........................................................8Hinge the Flaps & Ailerons ..........................................9Hook Up the Flaps & Ailerons .....................................9Finish the Wings ........................................................11

ASSEMBLE THE FUSELAGE .........................................12Mount the Stab ..........................................................12Mount the Fin.............................................................13Mount the Landing Gear............................................15Mount the Engine.......................................................16

Glow Engine ........................................................16Gas Engine (Fuji BT-32) ......................................16

Install the Fuel Tank...................................................18Hook up the Throttle & Nose Gear Steering..............19Hook up the Elevator & Rudder Servos.....................20

GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY..................................20Mount the Receiver & Battery....................................20Center the Servos......................................................21Check the Control Directions .....................................21Set the Control Throws ..............................................22Balance the Model (C.G.) ..........................................22Balance the Model Laterally ......................................23

PREFLIGHT .....................................................................23Identify Your Model.....................................................23Charge the Batteries..................................................23Balance the Propellers...............................................23Ground Check............................................................24Range Check .............................................................24

ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS .................................24AMA SAFETY CODE (excerpts) ....................................24IMAA SAFETY CODE (excerpts) ...................................25CHECK LIST....................................................................26FLYING.............................................................................27

Take Off......................................................................27Flight ..........................................................................28Landing ......................................................................28

ENGINE MOUNTING TEMPLATES.................................31

Thank you for purchasing the Great Planes Giant Big Stik™

ARF. Due to the popularity of the “Stik” series of models, itwas only a matter of time before Great Planes released agiant version. And this Stik, like all of its predecessors, issimple and rugged. The Giant Big Stik ARF can be poweredby either a spark-ignition “gas” engine or a glow engine.Refer to “Engine Recommendations” under the“DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE” section of this manual forinformation that may help you decide how to power yourGiant Big Stik ARF.

For the latest technical updates or manual corrections to theGreat Planes Giant Big Stik ARF visit the Great Planes website at www.greatplanes.com. Open the “Airplanes” link,then select the Giant Big Stik ARF. If there is new technicalinformation or changes to this model, a “tech notice” box willappear in the upper left corner of the page.

We urge you to join the AMA (Academy of ModelAeronautics) and a local R/C club. The AMA is thegoverning body of model aviation and membership isrequired to fly at AMA clubs. Though joining the AMAprovides many benefits, one of the primary reasons to joinis liability protection. Coverage is not limited to flying atcontests or on the club field. It even applies to flying atpublic demonstrations and air shows. Failure to comply withthe Safety Code (excerpts printed in the back of themanual) may endanger insurance coverage. Additionally,training programs and instructors are available at AMA clubsites to help you get started the right way. There are over2,500 AMA chartered clubs across the country. Contact theAMA at the address or toll-free phone number below.

IMPORTANT!!! Two of the most important things you cando to preserve the radio controlled aircraft hobby are toavoid flying near full-scale aircraft and avoid flying near orover groups of people.

Academy of Model Aeronautics5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie, IN 47302-9252Tele: (800) 435-9262Fax (765) 741-0057

Or via the Internet at:http://www.modelaircraft.org

AMA

INTRODUCTIONTABLE OF CONTENTS

2

The Great Planes Giant Big Stik ARF is an excellent sport-scale model and is eligible to fly in IMAA events. The IMAA(International Miniature Aircraft Association) is anorganization that promotes non-competitive flying of giant-scale models. If you plan to attend an IMAA event, obtain acopy of the IMAA Safety Code by contacting the IMAA atthe address or telephone number below, or by logging on totheir web site.

IMAA205 S. Hilldale Road

Salina, KS 67401(913) 823-5569

www.fly-imaa.org/imaa/sanction.html.

1. Your Giant Big Stik ARF should not be considered a toy,but rather a sophisticated, working model that functionsvery much like a full-size airplane. Because of itsperformance capabilities, the Giant Big Stik ARF, if notassembled and operated correctly, could possibly causeinjury to yourself or spectators and damage to property.

2. You must assemble the model according to theinstructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as doing somay result in an unsafe or unflyable model. In a few casesthe instructions may differ slightly from the photos. In thoseinstances the written instructions should be consideredas correct.

3. You must take time to build straight, true and strong.

4. You must use an R/C radio system that is in first-classcondition, and a correctly sized engine and components(fuel tank, wheels, etc.) throughout the building process.

5. You must correctly install all R/C and other componentsso that the model operates correctly on the ground and inthe air.

6. You must check the operation of the model before everyflight to insure that all equipment is operating and that themodel has remained structurally sound. Be sure to checkclevises or other connectors often and replace them if theyshow any signs of wear or fatigue.

7. If you are not an experienced pilot or have not flown thistype of model before, we recommend that you get theassistance of an experienced pilot in your R/C club for yourfirst flights. If you’re not a member of a club, your local

hobby shop has information about clubs in your area whosemembership includes experienced pilots.

8. While this kit has been flight tested to exceed normal use, ifthe plane will be used for extremely high stress flying, such asracing, or if an engine larger than one in the recommendedrange is used, the modeler is responsible for taking steps toreinforce the high stress points and/or substituting hardwaremore suitable for the increased stress.

Remember: Take your time and follow the instructions toend up with a well-built model that is straight and true.

This is a partial list of items required to finish the Giant BigStik ARF that may require planning or decision-makingbefore starting to build. Order numbers are providedin parentheses.

The recommended engine size range for the Giant Big StikARF is specified on the cover of this manual. All engineswithin the specified range will power this model well. Neverfly the Giant Big Stik ARF with an engine larger than one inthe specified range because it has not been designed ortested for larger engines. Powered by a two-stroke glowengine such as the O.S.® MAX 1.60 FX, the Giant Big StikARF performs like any .60-size sport plane with the addedstability and durability of any well-designed giant plane. Ifflying the Giant Big Stik ARF with a spark-ignition gasengine, the kit includes a plywood engine mount plate andengine mount standoffs to facilitate the Fuji Engines™

BT-32. If using another brand of gas engine, use theinstructions as a guide for how to mount yours.

If you haven’t yet built a model with a gas engine, but areconsidering using one, two of the benefits are fuel economy(not only is gasoline cheaper than glow fuel, but gas enginestypically burn less fuel as well) and considerably cleanerexhaust residue. Most gas engines, however, are heavierthan glow engines and require premixing gas and oil.

Here are the order numbers for O.S. MAX and Fuji engines:

❏ O.S. 1.60 FX ringed with muffler (OSMG0660)❏ O.S. 1.60 FX ringed without muffler (OSMG0661)

Engine Recommendations

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE

We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you with a topquality, thoroughly tested kit and instructions, butultimately the quality and flyability of your finished modeldepends on how you build it; therefore, we cannot in anyway guarantee the performance of your completedmodel, and no representations are expressed or impliedas to the performance or safety of your completed model.

PROTECT YOUR MODEL, YOURSELF& OTHERS...FOLLOW THESE

IMPORTANT SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

IMAA

3

❏ #5010 muffler for O.S. 1.60 FX engine (OSMG2846)❏ Fuji BT-32S R/C gas engine (FJIG0033)

Per the IMAA Safety Code, magneto spark-ignition enginesmust have a coil-grounding switch on the aircraft to stop theengine and prevent accidental starting. The switch must beoperated manually (without the use of the transmitter) andbe accessible by the pilot and assistant. For use with theFuji engine shown, the manually operated switch was madefrom a .3 amp slide switch, 16-gauge wire and a covered,crimp-on connector purchased at the local Radio Shack®.Slightly different hardware may be required if using adifferent spark-ignition engine. All of the componentsrequired are available at any hardware or home-improvement store.

If using the Fuji BT-32SB engine the following hardwaremust be purchased separately:

❏ (4) 1/4-20 x 2-1/4" or 1/4-20 x 2-1/2" Phillips-head bolts❏ (4) 1/4-20 blind nuts❏ (4) 1/4" flat washers❏ (4) 1/4" lock washers❏ (4) 10-32 x 3/4" socket-head cap screws❏ (4) #10 lock washers

Note: If using the Fuji BT-32 (or most other gas engines),the nose-gear option may not be used and the model mustbe built as a taildragger. This is because of the extendeddistance from the firewall that the engine would have to bemounted in order to clear the nose gear hardware.

The fuel tank included with this kit is suitable for use withglow fuel. However, if using a gas engine, the fuel tank mustbe converted to work with gasoline. This can be done bypurchasing a Sullivan #484 Gasoline/Diesel fuel tankconversion kit (SULQ2684), a package of Du-Bro #813 1/8"[3.2mm] I.D. fuel line barbs (DUBQ0670) and 3' of GreatPlanes gasoline fuel tubing (GPMQ4135). Without the fuelline barbs some types of gas-compatible fuel line may slipoff the metal fuel tubes. If the Sullivan conversion kit is notavailable the Du-Bro #400 gas conversion stopper(DUBQ0675) and one 12" [300mm] piece of K+S 1/8"[3.2mm] soft brass tubing (K+SR5128, box of 5) could alsobe used to make the conversion. Full instructions on how toset up the fuel tank and make the conversion to gas areprovided in this manual.

The model on the kit box cover is shown with a Great Planes2-3/4" [70mm] aluminum spinner (GPMQ4555) (not included).An adapter nut for mounting the spinner cone is also required.(Order No. OSMG4588 for use with the O.S. 1.60 FX.) TheGreat Planes spinner is intended to be used on engines thathave a threaded crankshaft–not engines that use a propellerbolt (such as most gas engines). In this case, a different typeof spinner will have to be used. In most cases the propellercutouts in the cone will also have to be enlarged. A rotary toolwith a carbide cutter works great for the rough work, followedby a small metal file to clean up the edges. Always wear eyeprotection when working with power tools.

A building stand or cradle comes in handy.We use the RobartSuper Stand II (ROBP1402) for all of our projects in R&D.

The Giant Big Stik ARF is intended to be flown with flaps usinga radio with a minimum of five channels. If, however, you haveonly a four-channel radio, the Giant Big Stik ARF could beflown without flaps. In this case, the flap servos will have to belinked to the aileron servos using Y-connectors. Then, all fourcontrol surfaces on the wings will function as ailerons.

Since the Giant Big Stik ARF is a large model, standardservos should not be used to operate the control surfaces.Servos with a minimum torque rating of 50 oz-in are

Radio Equipment

Flap & Aileron Setup

Building Stand

Spinner

Fuel Tank Setup

4

suitable for the flaps and ailerons. The elevator and ruddershould each be operated by a servo with approximately 70oz-in torque. The throttle and nose wheel may be operatedby standard servos.

The following servo extensions and Y-harnesses werealso used to build the Giant Big Stik ARF as shown in the manual.

❏ (2) 36" [910mm] servo extensions for elevator andrudder (HCAM2726 for Futaba)

❏ (2) 24" [610mm] servo extensions for ailerons(HCAM2721 for Futaba)

❏ (2) 6" [150mm] servo extensions for flaps (HCAM2701for Futaba)

❏ (2) Futaba AEC-13 Y-connectors for flap and aileronservos (FUTM4130)

A battery pack with a minimum of 1,000mAh should alsobe used. When flying giant-scale models such as this,ALWAYS check the battery condition before each flight.

In addition to the items listed in the “Decisions You MustMake” section, following is the list of hardware andaccessories required to finish the Giant Big Stik ARF. Ordernumbers are provided in parentheses.

❏ Propeller and spare propellers suitable for your engine❏ R/C foam rubber (1/4" [6mm] – HCAQ1000, or 1/2"

[13mm] – HCAQ1050)❏ 3' [900mm] standard silicone fuel tubing (GPMQ4131)

-or-❏ 3' [900mm] gasoline fuel tubing (GPMQ4135)❏ Stick-on segmented lead weights (GPMQ4485)

In addition to common household tools and hobby tools, thisis the “short list” of the most important items required tobuild the Giant Big Stik ARF. Great Planes Pro™ CA andEpoxy glue are recommended.

❏ 1/2 oz. [15g] Thin Pro CA (GPMR6001)❏ 1/2 oz. [15g] Medium Pro CA+ (GPMR6007) ❏ Pro 30-minute epoxy (GPMR6047) ❏ Denatured alcohol (for epoxy clean up)❏ CA applicator tips (HCAR3780)❏ Threadlocker™ thread-locking cement (GPMR6060)❏ Drill bits: 1/16" [1.6mm], 3/32" [2.4mm], 1/8" [3.2mm],

3/16" [4.8mm], 13/64" [5.2mm] (or 3/16"), 15/64 [6mm](or 1/4"), 1/4" [6.4mm], 9/32" [7.1mm]

❏ 8-32 tap and drill set (GPMR8103)-or-

❏ 8-32 Tap and #29 drill❏ Tap handle (GPMR8120)❏ Small metal file❏ Silver solder w/flux (GPMR8070)❏ #1 Hobby knife (HCAR0105)❏ #11 Blades (5-pack, HCAR0211)❏ 21st Century® sealing iron (COVR2700) ❏ 21st Century iron cover (COVR2702)

Here is a list of optional tools mentioned in the manual thatwill help you build the Giant Big Stik ARF.

❏ Pro 6-minute epoxy (GPMR6045) ❏ 2 oz. [57g] spray CA activator (GPMR6035)❏ 4 oz. [113g] aerosol CA activator (GPMR634)❏ CA debonder (GPMR6039)❏ 3M 75 Repositionable spray adhesive (MMMR1900)❏ Epoxy brushes (6, GPMR8060)❏ Mixing sticks (50, GPMR8055)❏ Mixing cups (GPMR8056)❏ Builder’s Triangle Set (HCAR0480)❏ 36" Metal ruler (HCAR0475)❏ Large T-pins (100, HCAR5200)❏ Robart Super Stand II (ROBP1402)❏ Switch & Charge Jack Mounting Set (GPMM1000)❏ Rotary tool such as Dremel®

❏ Rotary tool reinforced cut-off wheel (GPMR8200)❏ Hobby Heat™ Micro Torch II (HCAR0755)❏ Dead Center™ Engine Mount Hole Locator (GPMR8130)❏ AccuThrow™ Deflection Gauge (GPMR2405) ❏ CG Machine™ (GPMR2400)❏ Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer™ (TOPQ5700)

• Sheet metal screws are designated by a number and alength. For example, #6 x 3/4" [19mm].

This is a number six screw that is 3/4" [19mm] long.

• Machine screws are designated by a number, threadsper inch, and a length. For example, 4-40 x 3/4" [19mm].

This is a number four screw that is 3/4" [19mm] longwith forty threads per inch.

IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES

Optional Supplies & Tools

Adhesives & Building Supplies

Hardware & Accessories

ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED

5

• When you see the term test fit in the instructions, itmeans that you should first position the part on theassembly without using any glue, then slightly modifyor custom fit the part as necessary for the best fit.

• Whenever the term glue is written you should rely uponyour experience to decide what type of glue to use. Whena specific type of adhesive works best for that step, theinstructions will make a recommendation.

• Whenever just epoxy is specified you may use either30-minute (or 45-minute) epoxy or 6-minute epoxy. When30-minute epoxy is specified it is highly recommendedthat you use only 30-minute (or 45-minute) epoxy,because you will need the working time and/or theadditional strength.

• Photos and sketches are placed before the step theyrefer to. Frequently you can study photos in followingsteps to get another view of the same parts.

• Following are the MonoKote® colors used on the GiantBig Stik ARF in case patches or repairs are ever needed:

True Red – TOPQ0227Black – TOPQ0208White – TOPQ0204

• The stabilizer and wing incidences and engine thrustangles have been factory-built into this model. However,some technically-minded modelers may wish to checkthese measurements anyway. To view this informationvisit the web site at www.greatplanes.com and click on“Technical Data.” Due to manufacturing tolerances whichwill have little or no effect on the way your model will fly,please expect slight deviations between your model andthe published values.

Replacement parts for the Great Planes Giant Big Stik ARFare available using the order numbers in the ReplacementParts List that follows. The fastest, most economical servicecan be provided by your hobby dealer or mail-order company.

To locate a hobby dealer, visit the Hobbico® web site atwww.hobbico.com. Choose “Where to Buy” at the bottom of themenu on the left side of the page. Follow the instructionsprovided on the page to locate a U.S., Canadian or Internationaldealer. If a hobby shop is not available, replacement parts mayalso be ordered from Tower Hobbies® at www.towerhobbies.com,or by calling toll free (800) 637-6050.

Parts may also be ordered directly from Hobby Services bycalling (217) 398-0007, or via facsimile at (217) 398-7721,but full retail prices and shipping and handling charges willapply. Illinois and Nevada residents will also be charged

sales tax. If ordering via fax, include a Visa® or MasterCard®

number and expiration date for payment.

Mail parts orders and payments by personal check to:

Hobby Services3002 N. Apollo Drive, Suite 1

Champaign, IL 61822

Be certain to specify the order number exactly as listed inthe Replacement Parts List. Payment by credit card orpersonal check only; no C.O.D.

If additional assistance is required for any reason contactProduct Support by e-mail at productsupport@greatplanes.com,or by telephone at (217) 398-8970.

REPLACEMENT PARTS LIST

Order Number Description How to PurchaseMissing pieces..........Contact Product SupportInstruction manual ....Contact Product SupportFull-size plans ............................Not Available

GPMA2815 ..........Wing Set ....................Contact Hobby SupplierGPMA2816 ..........Fuselage ....................Contact Hobby SupplierGPMA2817 ..........Tail Surface Kit ..........Contact Hobby SupplierGPMA2818 ..........Main Gear ..................Contact Hobby SupplierGPMA2819 ..........Nose Gear ..................Contact Hobby SupplierGPMA2820 ..........Wing Tube ..................Contact Hobby Supplier

1" = 25.4mm (conversion factor)

METRIC CONVERSIONS

ORDERING REPLACEMENT PARTS

6

1/64" = .4 mm1/32" = .8 mm1/16" = 1.6 mm3/32" = 2.4 mm1/8" = 3.2 mm

5/32" = 4.0 mm3/16" = 4.8 mm1/4" = 6.4 mm3/8" = 9.5 mm1/2" = 12.7 mm5/8" = 15.9 mm

3/4" = 19.0 mm1" = 25.4 mm2" = 50.8 mm3" = 76.2 mm6" = 152.4 mm

12" = 304.8 mm18" = 457.2 mm21" = 533.4 mm24" = 609.6 mm30" = 762.0 mm36" = 914.4 mm

7

KIT INSPECTION

Before starting to build, use the Kit Contents list to take an inventory of this kit to make sure it is complete and inspect the partsto make sure they are of acceptable quality. If any parts are missing or are not of acceptable quality, or if you need assistancewith assembly, contact Great Planes Product Support. When reporting defective or missing parts, use the part names exactlyas they are written in the Kit Contents list on this page.

Great Planes Product Support:3002 N. Apollo Drive, Suite 1

Champaign, IL 61822Telephone: (217) 398-8970, ext. 5

Fax: (217) 398-7721E-mail: airsupport@greatplanes.com

Parts Layout

Kit Contents

1. Fuselage2. Wings, Flaps & Ailerons3. Fin & Rudder4. Stabilizer & Elevator5. Tail Gear Assembly6. 13-3/4" [350mm] Velcro Strip7. Fuel Tank8. Wing Joiner Tube9. Nose Gear Wire10. Nose Gear Bearing11. Main Landing Gear12. Wheels (3)

Wood Parts:(2) Plywood Fuel Tank Former Set(2) Plywood Fuji Engine Mount Plates(1) Plywood Receiver/Battery Tray(1) 1/4" x 1/4" x 8" [6.3 x 6.3 x 200mm]

Hardwood Stick(1) 1/16" x 1" x 8" [1.6 x 25 x 200mm] Sheeting(2) 3/8" x 2" [9.5 x 50mm] Hardwood Dowels(1) 1/4" x 1-3/16" [6.3 x 30mm] Hardwood Dowel

Hardware:(1) Nylon Tail Gear Eyelet (4) Fuji Gas Engine Mounting Standoffs(1) 1.20 – 1.60 Engine Mount, Right(1) 1.20 – 1.60 Engine Mount, Left(2) 2-56 x 36" [914mm] Pushrods(6) 4-40 x 12" [305mm] Pushrods(1) 36" [914mm] White Pushrod Tube

(for gas engine) (1) 3/16" x 36" [4.8 x 914mm] Pushrod

Guide Tube(6) Giant Control Horns(6) Giant Control Horn Mounting Plates(2) CA Hinge Strips(6) Heat-Shrink Tubing(1) Steering Arm

Nuts, Bolts, Connectors:(2) 1/4-20 Blind Nuts (factory-installed

in fuselage)(2) 1/4-20 x 2" [51mm] Nylon Wing Bolts(12) 6-32 Blind Nuts (8 factory-installed)(4) 6-32 x 1" [25mm] Screws(8) #6 Flat Washers(8) #6 Lock Washers(2) 3/16" x 2" [4.8 x 50mm] Bolt-on Axles(2) 5/16" Lock Nuts (for axles)(2) 3/16" [4.8mm] Wheel Collars(2) 6-32 Set Screws (for wheel collars)(4) 6-32 x 3/4" [19mm] Phillips Screws(1) 6-32 x 1/4" [6mm] Socket-Head Cap Screw(4) 8-32 x 1-1/4" [32mm] Socket-Head Cap

Screws (engine mount)(4) 8-32 x 1" [25mm] Socket-Head Cap

Screws (engine)(4) 8-32 Blind Nuts(4) #8 Flat Washers(8) #8 Lock Washers(2) Brass Screw-Lock Pushrod Connectors(2) Nylon Retainers (for screw-lock

pushrod connectors)(2) 4-40 x 1/8" [3.2mm] Socket-Head

Cap Screws

(2) Nylon Clevises(2) 2-56 x 1" [25mm] Threaded Rod (gas)(1) Nylon Ball Link (gas)(1) 2-56 Ball Link Ball (gas)(1) 2-56 Lock Nut (gas)(6) 4-40 Clevises(6) Large Solder Clevises(6) 4-40 Nuts(24) 4-40 x 3/4" [19mm] Phillips Screws

(control horns)(14) Silicone Clevis Retainers(8) #2 x 3/8" [9.5mm] Phillips Screws (4-fuel

tank hatch cover, 4-battery/receiver tray)(8) #2 Washers (1) 3/32" [2.4mm] Wheel Collar (tail gear)(1) 4-40 Set Screw

Kit Contents (Not Photographed)

1

12

8

3

4

6

5

7

9

11

10

2

Use a covering iron with a covering sock to remove anywrinkles in the covering. Over sheeted areas, first glide theiron over the wrinkle until it disappears, then come backpressing hard on the iron to thoroughly bond the covering tothe wood. Hint: Use a small T-pin to poke several holes inthe covering over the lightening holes on the bottom of thecontrol surfaces. This will allow expanding air to escapeduring the heating and tightening process.

❏ 1. Use a straightedge and a hobby knife to cut thecovering 1/8" [3mm] inside the openings in the bottom ofboth wings for the flap and aileron servos.

❏ 2. Slit the covering up to the corners of the openings,then use a trim iron to iron the covering down inside.

❏ 3. Cut the covering from the bottom of the wing over theholes for the servo wires next to the root end of both wings.

❏ 4. Connect one 12" [300mm] servo extension wire toeach aileron servo and connect one 6" [150mm] extensionwire to each flap servo. Cut two pieces of the included blackheat shrink tubing in half, making four 1-1/2" [40mm] pieces.Center the pieces of tubing over the connections betweenthe servo wires and the extensions. Use a heat gun toshrink the tubing, making the connections secure.

Mount the Servos

ASSEMBLE THE WINGS

During construction there will be several occasions whereepoxy cleanup will be necessary. Instead of wastingwhole paper towels, stack three or four paper towels ontop of each other and cut them into small squares. Thiswill conserve paper towels and the little squares areeasier to use. For epoxy clean up dampen the squareswith denatured alcohol.

PREPARATIONS

8

❏ 5. Use the strings in the wings to pull the servo wires outwhile placing the servos into the openings. With the servosin position, drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes into the wing for all theservo mounting screws. Temporarily mount the servos withthe servo mounting screws that came with your servos.

❏ 6. Remove the servo mounting screws and take the servosout of the openings. Add a few drops of thin CA to each screwhole to harden the “threads.” After the CA has hardenedreinstall all the screws to securely mount the servos.

❏ 1. Cut twelve 1" x 1" [25 x 25mm] CA hinges from the 2"x 9" [50 x 230mm] CA hinge strip. Cut the corners off so thehinges go in easier.

❏ 2. Stick a T-pin through the middle of all the hinges. Insertsix hinges into the hinge slots of both wings.

❏ 3. Join the flaps and ailerons to the wings with the hinges.Make sure there is a small gap between the leading edge ofthe flaps and ailerons and the trailing edge of the wings–justenough to see light through or to slip a piece of paper through.Take out the T-pins, then apply at least eight drops of thin CAto both sides of all the hinges on both wings. Allow enoughtime between each drop of CA so the hinge can absorb itinstead of running into the hinge gap. CA applicator tips arehighly recommended here so the amount and location of theCA can be controlled.

❏ 4. After the CA has hardened for a few minutes, pull hardon the flaps and ailerons to make sure they are secure. Addmore CA to any hinges that aren’t securely glued.

If you’re building your Giant Big Stik ARF with flapshook up the servos this way.

Hook Up the Flaps & AileronsHinge the Flaps & Ailerons

9

❏ 1. Make four pushrod assemblies from the hardwareshown in the photo. Turn the pushrods into the clevisapproximately twenty full turns.

❏ 2. Connect a solder-on clevis into the outer hole of oneof the aileron servo arms. (Do not cut off the unused servoarms until instructed to do so when setting up the radiolater.) Hold one of the control horn/pushrod assemblies tothe wing with the horn resting on the aileron (as shown inthe sketch) and the pushrod up to the clevis.

❏ 3. Use a fine-point felt-tip pen to mark the pushrod whereit should be cut for soldering onto the clevis.

❏ 4. Cut the pushrod at the mark. Take the clevis off thehorn, then refer to the “Expert Tip” that follows aboutsoldering and solder the clevis onto the end of the pushrod.

This is what a properly soldered clevis looks like–shinysolder with good flow, no blobs, flux removed.

1. Use denatured alcohol or other solvent to thoroughlyclean the pushrod. Roughen the end of the pushrod withcoarse sandpaper where it is to be soldered.

2. Apply a few drops of soldering flux to the end of thepushrod, then use a soldering iron or a torch to heat it.“Tin” the heated area with silver solder (GPMR8070) byapplying the solder to the end. The heat of the pushrodshould melt the solder–not the flame of the torch orsoldering iron–thus allowing the solder to flow. The end ofthe wire should be coated with solder all the way around.

3. Place the clevis on the end of the pushrod. Add anotherdrop of flux, then heat and add solder. The same asbefore, the heat of the parts being soldered should meltthe solder, thus allowing it to flow. Allow the joint tonaturally cool without disturbing. Avoid excess blobs, butmake certain the joint is thoroughly soldered. The soldershould be shiny, not rough. If necessary, reheat the jointand allow to cool.

4. Immediately after the solder has solidified, but while itis still hot, use a cloth to quickly wipe off the flux before ithardens. Important: After the joint cools, coat with oil toprevent rust. Note: Do not use the acid flux that comeswith silver solder for electrical soldering.

HOW TO SOLDER

If you’re not building your Giant Big Stik ARF withflaps hook up the servos this way.

10

❏ 5. Reconnect the pushrod to the servo horn, then markand drill 1/8" [3.2mm] holes through the aileron for thecontrol horn mounting screws. Mount the horn to the aileronwith four 4-40 x 3/4" [19mm] screws and the mounting plateon the top.

❏ 6. Make the other aileron pushrod the same length as thefirst, then hook up the other aileron with another controlhorn and mounting screws.

❏ 7. If you’re building your model without flaps, make twomore pushrods the same way and connect the “flap” servosto the “inner ailerons.” Then proceed to “Finish the Wings.”If you are building flaps, follow steps 8 through 10.

Now onto the flaps…

❏ 8. Place a servo arm on one of the flap servos. Rotatethe arm downward 30-degrees.

❏ 9. Make the flap pushrod and connect the flap to the flapservo the same way you did the ailerons.

❏ 10. Hook up the other flap the same way.

❏ 1. Round one end of the 1/4" x 1-3/16" [6.4 x 30mm]hardwood anti-rotation dowel. Use 30-minute epoxy to gluethe dowel into the end of one of the wings. Glue both 3/8" x2" [9.5 x 50mm] hardwood wing dowels into the front of bothwings. 3/8" [10mm] of the wing dowels should protrude.

❏ 2. Cut the covering from the wing bolt holes in the wings andfrom the holes in both 1/16" [1.6mm] plywood wing boltplates. Place the wing bolt plates on the wings using the1/4-20 x 2" [50mm] nylon wing bolts to hold them in place.Markthe outline of the wing bolt plates onto the wings using aballpoint pen.Remove the wing bolt plates and cut the coveringfrom the wings 1/8" [3mm] inside the lines you marked.

❏ 3. Glue the wing bolt plates into position using the wingbolts to keep them in alignment.

Finish the Wings

11

There are a few preparation and alignment proceduresthat must be done before the stabilizer can be gluedinto the fuselage...

❏ 1. Cut the covering from the slots in the fuselage for thehorizontal stabilizer (“stab”) and vertical stabilizer (“fin”).Remove the balsa stick temporarily glued in place forshipping. The same as was done for the servo openings inthe wings, cut and iron down the covering around theelevator and rudder servo openings in the fuselage.

❏ 2. Taking accurate measurements, use a fine-point felt-tip pen to mark the middle of the stabilizer near the trailingedge. Use a builder’s square to extend the line marking ashort centerline.

❏ 3. With the fuselage upside-down, slide the stabilizer allthe way into the slot with the centerline on the bottom. Usethe centerline to center the stab in the fuselage, then sticka T-pin through the bottom of the fuselage into the stab tohold the trailing edge in place.

❏ 4. Stick another T-pin into the bottom of the fuselagecentered over the firewall. Tie a loop in an approximately70" [180cm] piece of non-elastic string. Slip the loop in thestring over this T-pin.

❏ 5. Fold a piece of masking tape over the string near theother end and draw an arrow on it. Slide the tape along thestring and align the arrow with one end of the stab asshown. Swing the string over to the same position on theother end of the stab. Rotate the stab about the T-pin andslide the tape along the string until the stab is centered andthe arrow aligns with both ends.

❏ 6. Use a fine-point felt-tip pen such as a Top Flite® PanelLine Pen (TOPQ2510) to mark the outline of the fuselageon the top and bottom of the stab.

One more alignment procedure…

❏ 7. Carefully turn the fuselage back over (so it is upright)and fit the wings together with the wing tube. Bolt the wing tothe fuselage with two 1/4-20 x 2" [50mm] nylon wing bolts.

Mount the Stab

ASSEMBLE THE FUSELAGE

12

❏ 8. Stand approximately ten feet behind the model and seeif the stab aligns horizontally with the wing. If they align, go tothe next step. If the stab and wing do not align, first try placinga few ounces of weight on the high side of the stab. If thatdoesn’t do it, remove the stab from the fuselage and lightlysand the slots in the fuselage to get the stab to align with thewing. Reinsert the stab and check the alignment. Continue tomake small adjustments until alignment is achieved.

❏ 9. Remove the stab from the fuselage. Use a sharp #11hobby knife or follow the “Expert Tip” below to cut thecovering from the stab along the lines. Use care to cut onlyinto the covering and not into the wood. Cutting into thebalsa will weaken the structure.

❏ 10. Peel the covering from the stab. Remove any ink with oneof your paper towel squares dampened with denatured alcohol.

Finally! Time to glue in the stab…

❏ 11. Thoroughly coat all joining areas of the stabilizer andfuselage with 30-minute epoxy. Slide the stab into position. Usemore paper towel squares and denatured alcohol to wipe offexcess epoxy. Reinsert the T-pin through the back of thefuselage and the stab. Use the pin-and-string to center the stabthe same as before. Position any weight used to align the stabwith the wing. Do not disturb the model until the epoxy has fullyhardened. Note: Be certain the spacing of the slot in the top ofthe fuselage for the fin remains the same so the fin can be gluedinto position next.

❏ 1. After the epoxy on the stabilizer has hardened, test fitthe fin. Make sure it sits all the way down into the fuselageand is fully contacting the stab. The same as was done withthe stabilizer, mark both sides of the fin around the top ofthe fuselage, then cut and peel off the covering.

❏ 2. Glue the fin into position with 30-minute epoxy. Use aBuilder’s Triangle to make sure the fin is perpendicular to the

Mount the Fin

To avoid cutting into the balsa, use a soldering ironinstead of a hobby knife to cut the covering. The tip of thesoldering iron doesn’t have to be sharp, but a fine tip doeswork best. Allow the iron to heat fully. Use a straightedgeto guide the soldering iron at a rate that will just melt thecovering and not burn into the wood. The hotter thesoldering iron, the faster it must travel to melt a fine cut.

HOW TO CUT COVERING FROM BALSA

13

stabilizer. If necessary, use a long strip of masking tape to pullthe top of the fin over to one side or the other of the stab.

If flying your Giant Big Stik ARF with a Fuji BT-32, thenose-gear option may not be used due to the distancethat the engine would have to be extended from thefirewall. Mount the tail gear as illustrated in thefollowing steps.

❏ 3. Taildragger: If building your Giant Big Stik ARF as ataildragger, use the hole already in the bottom of the fuselageunder the trailing edge of the stabilizer as a guide to drill a 15/64[6mm] (or 1/4" [6.4mm]) hole up through the stabilizer.

❏ 4. Taildragger:Use coarse sandpaper to roughen thetop couple of inches of the tail gear wire. Slide a 3/32"[2.4mm] wheel collar and the nylon bearing onto the wire.Mark the wire 2-1/4" [57mm] up from the collar on the baseof the bearing.

❏ 5. Taildragger: Insert the assembly up through the bottomof the fuselage. Use two pairs of pliers to make a 90° bend inthe wire at the mark–be sure to make the bend in the correctdirection so the wheel will be facing the correct direction–and becentered, when the wire is inserted into the rudder.

❏ 6. Taildragger: Hold the rudder up to the fin and markwhere the “arm” of the tail gear wire will enter the rudder.

❏ 7. Taildragger: Use a hobby knife or a 3/32" [2.4mm]brass tube sharpened on the end to cut a groove in theleading edge of the rudder to accommodate the tail gearwire. Drill a 3/32" [2.4mm] hole at the mark for the arm.

❏ 8. Cut three more 1" x 1" [25 x 25mm] CA hinges for therudder (or cut nine hinges for both the elevator and rudder).Test fit the rudder to the fin and the tail gear wire. Make anyadjustments necessary for a good fit.

❏ 9. Remove the rudder. Apply epoxy in the groove and thehole for the tail gear wire, then permanently glue the rudderinto position with the CA hinges. Wipe away excess epoxythat comes out of the rudder before it hardens. Add a dropof threadlocker to a 4-40 set screw and tighten it into thewheel collar on the tail gear.

❏ 10. Permanently join the elevator to the stabilizer with thehinges and thin CA.

14

❏ 1. Slide a wheel and a 3/16" [4.8mm] wheel collar ontoone of the 3/16" x 2" [4.8 x 50mm] axles. Use a fine-pointfelt-tip pen to mark the end of the collar and the hole for theset screw in the collar all the way around the axle. Mark theother axle the same way.

❏ 2. Use a cutoff wheel or a metal-cutting saw to cut theaxles about 1/16" [2mm] past the line that marks the end ofthe collar. File a flat spot over the line that marks the setscrew. Fasten the axles to the landing gear with the 5/16"-24 lock nuts.

❏ 3. Mount a wheel to each axle with a wheel collarfastened to the axle with a 6-32 set screw and a drop ofThreadlocker. Add a drop of oil to both sides of the wheels.

❏ 4. Taildragger: If building your Giant Big Stik ARF as ataildragger, mount the main landing gear at the forwardmounting location with four 6-32 x 1" [25mm] screws, #6washers and #6 flat washers. If building your Giant Big StikARF with a nose gear, mount the landing gear in the aftmounting location. Note that the 90° angle side of the gearfaces forward.

Follow these steps if building your Giant Big Stik ARFwith nose gear. Otherwise, skip to step 1 on page 16.

❏ 5. Tricycle: Use a metal file, wire cutters or a rotary tool witha cut-off wheel to grind one edge off of two 6-32 blind nuts.

❏ 6. Tricycle: Apply a few dabs of epoxy to the front of thetwo blind nuts, then use a 6-32 x 3/4" [19mm] screw to pullthe nuts into the bottom two holes in the back of the firewallfor the nose gear bearing. Pull two more blind nuts into thetop holes the same way.

❏ 7. Tricycle: Cut apart the two pieces of the nylon nosegear bearing.

❏ 8. Tricycle: Slide the nose gear wire onto the nose gearbearings and the steering arm in between.Temporarily mountthe bearings to the firewall with four 6-32 x 3/4" [19mm]screws, #6 lock washers and #6 flat washers. For now, itdoesn’t matter which side the steering arm is on, but the topof the nose gear wire should be even with the top bearing.

Mount the Landing Gear

15

GLOW ENGINE

❏ 1. Fit the engine to the engine mount halves and hold theassembly together using small C-clamps. (Since this planehas no engine cowl it doesn’t matter how far forward or aftyou position the engine on the mount.) Use a Great PlanesEngine Hole Locator or a drill bit to mark the enginemounting holes into the engine mounts.

❏ 2. Take the engine off the mount. Drill #29 holes at themarks. Use an 8-32 tap to cut threads into the holes. Mountthe engine to the mount with four 8-32 x 1" [25mm] sockethead cap screws and #8 lock washers.

❏ 3. Temporarily mount the muffler to your engine. Hold theengine and mount to the firewall to see which way it will bemounted. As shown in the photo, side mounting is preferredas the engine exhaust will be under the fuselage. But inorder to side mount the engine, the muffler must clear thenose gear and the bottom of the fuselage. If it does not, youwill have to mount the engine a different way. Note: Theengine must be centered laterally on the vertical line on thefirewall, but it is okay to move the engine up, above thehorizontal line in order to clear the nose gear bearing.

❏ 4. Once you have decided which way to mount theengine, cut out the Glow Engine Mounting Template fromthe back of the manual. As the supplied Great Planesengine mount is adjustable and the mounting bolt holes areslotted, the crossmarks for the bolt holes on the templatewill work for all engines that fit the mount, but the outlinedepicts the engine mount “footprint” when an O.S. 1.60 FXis mounted.

❏ 5. Use tape or spray adhesive to hold the glow enginemount template to the firewall. As mentioned before, thevertical line on the template should align with the verticalline on the firewall, but it is okay if you have to raise thetemplate so the mount will clear the nose gear bearing. Ifthe nose gear is not in the way, center the horizontal line onthe template with the horizontal line on the firewall as well.Use a large T-pin or a wire sharpened on the end to transferthe bolt hole marks on the template into the firewall.

❏ 6. Drill 13/64" [5.2mm] (or 3/16" [4.8mm]) holes at themarks. Apply a few dabs of epoxy to the front of four 8-32blind nuts. Use an 8-32 x 1-1/4" [32mm] bolt with largewashers to draw the blind nuts into the back of the firewall.

❏ 7. Mount the engine mount with the engine to the firewallusing four 8-32 x 1-1/4" [32mm] socket head cap screwsand #8 flat washers and lock washers.

GAS ENGINE (FUJI BT-32)

If mounting a gas engine other than the Fuji BT-32, usethese instructions for ideas how to mount your engine in asimilar manner.

Mount the Engine

16

❏ 1. Cut the Fuji BT-32 Engine Mount Template from theback of the manual 1/16" [1.6mm] outside the dashed lines.Use tape or repositionable spray adhesive to temporarilyhold the template to the firewall. The horizontal and verticallines on the template should align with the lines on thefirewall. Use a large T-pin or a sharpened wire to mark thecrossmarks for the bolt holes onto the firewall.

❏ 2. Remove the template. Drill 1/8" [3.2mm] pilot holes at themarks you made. Enlarge the holes with a 19/64" [7.5mm] (or9/32" [7mm] drill).

❏ 3. Cut or grind the side off two 1/4-20 blind nuts.

❏ 4. Apply epoxy to the front of one of the blind nuts youjust cut off. Use a couple of large washers and a 1/4-20 boltto draw the nut into the back of the firewall in one of theholes on the left side of the fuselage (to clear the aluminumbracing inside).

❏ 5. Draw the other blind nut into the other hole on the leftside, and two more blind nuts into the remaining two holesthe same way.

❏ 6. Glue together the two 1/4" [6.4mm] plywood Fujiengine mount plates. Install four 10-32 blind nuts (notincluded) in the back of the plate where shown. These willbe for holding the engine to the plate.

❏ 7. Mount the engine mount plate to the firewall with theincluded aluminum standoffs, 1/4-20 x 2-1/2" [63mm]Phillips or hex-head bolts and 1/4" [6.4mm] flat and lockwashers (not included). Do not use socket-head capscrews–they stick out too far and will interfere with theengine. Note: The actual standoffs included with your kitmight look different than the ones in the photo.

While we’re working on the front of the fuselage let’s goahead and hook up the throttle …

Refer to this photo to install the throttle pushrod.

❏ 8. Drill a 3/16" [4.8mm] hole through the firewall in thelocation shown (in the lower left corner for the Fuji BT-32) for

17

the throttle pushrod guide tube–this may require temporaryremoval of the engine. Drill the hole at an angle so the guidetube will cross to the other side of the fuselage and so thepushrod will align with the carburetor arm on the engine.

❏ 9. Cut 17" [430mm] from the 36" [915mm] gray pushrodguide tube. Use coarse sandpaper to roughen the outsideof the tube so glue will adhere. Slide the guide tube throughthe hole in the firewall up into the radio compartment. Thereis another hole in the former between the optional landinggear mounting locations that the guide tube should go into.

❏ 10. Cut the white, plastic throttle pushrod to a length of23" [585mm]. Connect the pushrod to the carburetor armusing the hardware shown in the photo.

We’ll connect the other end of the pushrod to theservo later…

❏ 11. It’s not necessary to do at this moment, but don’tforget to fuelproof the plywood engine mount plate beforeyou fly the model.

❏ 1. Remove the stopper from the fuel tank and shake out thecontents. If using a gas engine, follow the instructions in the“Gas Fuel Tank Conversion” text box that follows this step.

Otherwise, assemble the stopper assembly to suit yourrequirements for glow–most applications will require only atwo-line system–one line for the fuel pickup andfueling/defueling and another line for overflow/mufflerpressure (or for a vent on gas engines). Since the engine andfuel lines on this model are easy to get to, fueling will be donethrough the pickup line. If, however, a third line is required forfueling/defueling, simply install the third line into the stopper(additional fuel line and clunk not included with this kit). Thethird line will have to be closed after fueling. Install thealuminum tubes into the stopper as shown in the sketchabove. When it’s time to install the tank and connect the lineslater, you can refer to the sketch so you will know which linegoes to the carb and which line goes to the muffler.

❏ 2. Install the stopper assembly into the tank and tightenthe screw to complete the seal. Make sure the clunk on theend of the fuel line does not contact the rear of the tank-otherwise it may become stuck above the fuel level whilethe model is in flight.

Gas Fuel Tank Conversion1. The hardware necessary to do the gas conversion islisted in the front of the manual. Substitute the includedaluminum fuel line tubes with 1/8" brass tubing. Cut thevent tube and the pickup tube to the correct length, thensolder fuel line barbs onto one end of the tubes. Installthe tubes into the stopper assembly, then solder anotherfuel line barb onto the other end of the pickup tube.

2. Connect the clunk to the pickup tube via a piece of gas-compatible fuel line (not included).

Install the Fuel Tank

18

❏ 3. Determine how far forward or aft you will be mountingthe fuel tank in the fuel tank compartment. The tank may bepositioned to accommodate a battery pack for the electronicignition system should you be using one on a spark-ignition(gas) engine. Glue the plywood top fuel tank formers intoposition so they will support the tank–be certain to glue theaft former behind the forward former.

❏ 4. Fit the tank into the fuel tank compartment. Connect thefuel lines (not included) to the tank, then guide the lines throughthe hole in the middle of the firewall and connect them to thecarburetor and the pressure fitting on the muffler (on glowengines). Temporarily lift the tank out of the way, then apply afew dabs of RTV silicone to the top fuel tank formers and dropthe tank back into position. Apply a few dabs of RTV silicone tothe bottom fuel tank formers, then glue them into position.

The nose gear steering and throttle are installedsimultaneously. Refer to the following photos forinstallation. (Remember, the unused servo arms won’tbe trimmed from the four-arm servo arms until settingup the radio later.)

❏ 1. If you’ve installed a Fuji engine, the throttle pushrod isalready connected to the engine. If you are using a glowengine and have not yet installed the throttle pushrod, drilla 3/16" [4.8mm] hole through the firewall for the throttlepushrod guide tube. (If you don’t have an extended drill bitthe engine will have to be removed–or you could drill thehole with a 3/16" [4.8mm] brass tube sharpened on theend). As best as you can, position the hole so the throttlepushrod will align with the carburetor arm–it doesn’t have tobe perfect because you will be able to bend the pushrodlater. Be certain you do not drill into the fuel tank.

❏ 2. Cut 17" [430mm] from the 36" [915mm] gray pushrodguide tube. Use coarse sandpaper to roughen the outsideof the tube so glue will adhere. Slide the guide tube throughthe hole you drilled in the firewall and through the holes inthe other two formers in the fuselage.

❏ 3. Thread a nylon clevis onto a 36" [915mm] wirepushrod. Start out by cutting the pushrod to a length of 27"[685mm], then mount the throttle servo in the fuselage andhook up the throttle using the hardware shown. Bend thepushrod as necessary to connect it to the brass screw-lockconnector carburetor arm, then cut the pushrodapproximately 3/8" [9.5mm] past the connector.

❏ 4. If you are building your Giant Big Stik ARF with nosegear, use another 36" [915mm] pushrod, the remainder ofthe 3/16" [4.8mm] guide tube and the same hardware tohook up the nose gear steering. Mount the nose gearsteering servo. It will be easiest to position the steering armon the side opposite the throttle pushrod-there are two slotsin the firewall for the pushrod–use the one that works bestfor your setup.

❏ 5. Once the throttle and nose steering are connected,use medium CA to glue the guide tubes in place. Don’t

Hook Up the Throttle & Nose Gear Steering

19

forget to temporarily remove the servo mounting screws,harden the holes with thin CA, allow to harden, thenreinstall the screws.

❏ 6. If you’ve installed the nose gear, temporarily removethe nose gear wire and file a flat spot for the screw in thesteering arm. Reinstall the wire and tighten the 6-32 x 1/4"[6.4mm] screw with a drop of threadlocker.

❏ 7. Position the fuel tank hatch over its opening. Using theholes already in the hatch as a guide, drill 1/16" [1.6mm]holes into the support ledge. Mount the hatch with four #2 x3/8" screws and #2 washers. Remove the screws andhatch, harden the holes with thin CA, allow to harden, thenmount the hatch.

❏ 1. Connect one 36" [910mm] servo extension to eachservo for the elevator and rudder. Secure the connectionswith heat shrink tubing. Guide the servo wires down throughthe fuselage and mount the servos using the sameprocedures used for mounting servos all along (don’t forgetto harden the screw holes with thin CA).

❏ 2. Make the pushrods and hook up the rudder and elevatorusing the same hardware used for the flaps and ailerons. Becertain to distance the elevator control horn far enough awayfrom the rudder so that the two will not interfere.

❏ 1. Cut the 1/4" x 1/4" x 8" [6.4 x 6.4 x 200mm] hardwoodmounting rails into two 4" [100mm] pieces. Cut the 1/16" x1" x 6" [1.6 x 25 x 150mm] balsa rail support into two 3"[75mm] pieces.

❏ 2. A plywood receiver/battery tray is included with this kit.For C.G. considerations, the tray may be mounted ahead ofor behind former 3. If using a glow engine, mount the tray inthe forward location. If using a gas engine, mount the tray inthe aft location. Trim the 1/16" x 1" x 3" [1.6 x 25 x 75mm]balsa rail supports as necessary to position the rails at thedesired height in the fuselage. For the model shown in thismanual, the supports were cut to a width of 1/2" [13mm].Glue the rail supports and the rails into position.

❏ 3.Test mount the receiver/battery tray to the rails by drilling1/16" [1.6mm] holes through the rails and screwing them inplace with four #2 x 3/8" [9.5mm] screws and #2 washers.

Mount the Receiver & Battery

GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY

Hook Up the Elevator & Rudder Servos

20

❏ 4. Take the tray out of the fuselage, then use the includedVelcro strips and R/C foam rubber (not included) to mount thereceiver and battery. Add a few drops of thin CA to the screwholes, allow the glue to harden, then mount the tray back intothe fuselage.

❏ 5. Mount the receiver on/off switch in a location that iseasily accessible and will not get coated by engine exhaust.A Great Planes Switch & Charge Jack Mounting Set(GPMM1000) was used on this model and is a great way toeasily connect to the battery pack for voltage monitoring.

❏ 6. Connect the servos in the fuselage to the receiver.Guide the receiver antenna away from the servos and on/offswitch and down through the antenna tube that is factory-built into the fuselage. Note the Y-connectors connected tothe receiver for the flaps and ailerons.

With the radio system connected and operating, turn on thetransmitter and receiver. Make sure the trims on thetransmitter are centered. Starting with the rudder servo, testfit the four-arm servo arm in one of the four positions untilyou find the one that is 90-degrees. Cut off the remainingarms. Repeat this procedure for the rest of the servos. Note:For this procedure, the flap servos cannot be connected toa function operated by a two-position switch. Temporarilyconnect the flap servos to a function that has a center (suchas one of the control sticks or a slider) to find the servo armthat will be 90-degrees.

❏ 1. With the transmitter and receiver still on, check all thecontrol surfaces to see if they are centered. If necessary, adjustthe clevises on the pushrods to center the control surfaces.

❏ 2. Make certain that the control surfaces and the carburetorrespond in the correct direction as shown in the diagram. Ifany of the controls respond in the wrong direction, use the

CARBURETOR WIDE OPEN

RUDDER MOVES RIGHT

LEFT AILERON MOVES DOWNRIGHT AILERON MOVES UP

ELEVATOR MOVES UP

4-CHANNELTRANSMITTER

(STANDARD MODE 2)4-CHANNEL RADIO SETUP

TRANSMITTER4-CHANNEL

TRANSMITTER4-CHANNEL

TRANSMITTER4-CHANNEL

Check the Control Directions

Center the Servos

21

servo reversing in the transmitter to reverse the servosconnected to those controls. Be certain the control surfaceshave remained centered. Adjust if necessary.

Use a Great Planes AccuThrow™ (or a ruler) to accuratelymeasure and set the control throw of each control surfaceas indicated in the chart that follows. If your radio does nothave dual rates, we recommend setting the throws at thehigh rate setting. Note: The throws are measured at thewidest part of each control surface.

Note: If you’ve set up your Giant Big Stik ARF with flaps,1/8" [3mm] of down elevator mixing is recommended withthe half-flap setting and 1/4" [6mm] of down elevator isrecommended with the full-flap setting. Without this downelevator mixing, the nose will noticeably pitch upward whenthe flaps are extended.

At this stage the model should be in ready-to-fly conditionwith all of the systems in place including the engine, landinggear, covering and paint, and the radio system.

❏ 1. Temporarily join the wings with the joiner tube. If youwill be using a Great Planes C.G. Machine to balance themodel, set the rulers to 5-7/8" [150mm], then mount thewing to the fuselage and proceed to the next step. If you willnot be using a C.G. Machine, use a fine-point felt-tip pen toaccurately mark the C.G. on the bottom of the wing 5-7/8"[150mm] back from the leading edge. Lay a piece of narrow(1/8" [2mm]) tape over the line so you will be able to feel itwith your fingers when lifting the model to check the C.G.

This is where your model should balance for the firstflights. Later, you may wish to experiment by shifting theC.G. up to 5/8" [16mm] forward or back to change theflying characteristics. Moving the C.G. forward mayimprove the smoothness and stability, but the model maythen require more speed for takeoff and make it moredifficult to slow for landing. Moving the C.G. aft makes themodel more maneuverable, but could also cause it tobecome too difficult to control. In any case, start at therecommended balance point and do not at any timebalance the model outside the specified range.

More than any other factor, the C.G. (balance point) canhave the greatest effect on how a model flies, and maydetermine whether or not your first flight will besuccessful. If you value this model and wish to enjoy it formany flights, DO NOT OVERLOOK THIS IMPORTANTPROCEDURE. A model that is not properly balanced willbe unstable and possibly unflyable.

Balance the Model (C.G.)

IMPORTANT: The Giant Big Stik ARF has beenextensively flown and tested to arrive at the throws atwhich it flies best. Flying your model at these throws willprovide you with the greatest chance for successful firstflights. If, after you have become accustomed to the waythe Giant Big Stik ARF flies, you would like to change thethrows to suit your taste, that is fine. However, too muchcontrol throw could make the model difficult to control, soremember, “more is not always better.”

These are the recommended control surface throws:

High Rate Low RateELEVATOR: 3/4" [19mm] up 1/2" [13mm] up

3/4" [19mm] down 1/2" [13mm] down

RUDDER: 3" [76mm] right 1-1/2" [38mm] right3" [76mm] left 1-1/2" [38mm] left

AILERONS: 1-1/4" [32mm] up 1" [25mm] up1-1/4" [32mm] down 1" [25mm] down

FLAPS: 1-5/8" [42mm] full13/16" [21mm] half

Set the Control Throws

22

❏ 2. With the wing attached to the fuselage, all parts of themodel installed (ready to fly) and an empty fuel tank, placethe model on the CG Machine or lift it at the balance pointyou marked.

❏ 3. If the tail drops, the model is “tail heavy” and weight mustbe added to the nose to balance. If the nose drops, the modelis “nose heavy” and weight must be added to the tail tobalance. If possible, relocate the battery pack and receiver tominimize or eliminate any additional ballast required. Ifadditional weight is still required and you are using a glowengine, nose weight may be easily added by using a “spinnerweight” (GPMQ4645 for the 1 oz. [28g] weight, or GPMQ4646for the 2 oz. [57g] weight). If spinner weight cannot be used oris not enough, use Great Planes (GPMQ4485) “stick-on” lead.To find out just how much weight is needed, begin by placingincrementally increasing amounts of weight on the fuselagewhere needed until the model balances. Once you havedetermined the amount of weight required, it can bepermanently attached. A good place to add stick-on noseweight is inside the fuel tank compartment.

If tail weight is required, it may be added by cutting open thebottom of the fuselage and gluing it permanently inside.

Note: Do not rely upon the adhesive on the back of the leadweight to permanently hold it in place. Over time, fuel andexhaust residue may soften the adhesive and cause theweight to fall off. Use #2 sheet metal screws, RTV siliconeor epoxy to permanently hold the weight in place.

❏ 4. IMPORTANT: If you found it necessary to add anyweight, recheck the C.G. after the weight has been installed.

❏ 1. With the wings level, have an assistant help you lift themodel by the engine propeller shaft and the bottom of thefuselage under the trailing edge of the fin. Do this several times.

❏ 2. If one wing always drops when you lift the model, it meansthat side is heavy. Balance the airplane by adding weight to theother wing tip. An airplane that has been laterally balancedwill track better in loops and other maneuvers.

No matter if you fly at an AMA sanctioned R/C club site or if youfly somewhere on your own, you should always have yourname, address, telephone number and AMA number on orinside your model. It is required at all AMA R/C club flying sitesand AMA sanctioned flying events. Fill out the identification tagon page 28 and place it on or inside your model.

Follow the battery charging instructions that came with yourradio control system to charge the batteries. You shouldalways charge your transmitter and receiver batteries thenight before you go flying, and at other times asrecommended by the radio manufacturer.

CAUTION: Unless the instructions that came with yourradio system state differently, the initial charge on newtransmitter and receiver batteries should be done forfifteen hours using the slow-charger that came with theradio system. This will “condition” the batteries so that thenext charge may be done using the fast-charger of yourchoice. If the initial charge is done with a fast-charger thebatteries may not reach their full capacity and you may beflying with batteries that are only partially charged.

Charge the Batteries

Identify Your Model

PREFLIGHT

Balance the Model Laterally

23

Carefully balance your propeller and spare propellers beforeyou fly. An unbalanced prop can be the single mostsignificant cause of vibration that can damage your model.Not only will engine mounting screws and bolts loosen,possibly with disastrous effect, but vibration may alsodamage your radio receiver and battery. Vibration can alsocause your fuel to foam, which will, in turn, cause yourengine to run hot or quit.

We use a Top Flite Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer™

(TOPQ5700) in the workshop and keep a Great PlanesFingertip Prop Balancer (GPMQ5000) in our flight box.

If the engine is new, follow the engine manufacturer’sinstructions to break-in the engine. After break-in, confirmthat the engine idles reliably, transitions smoothly andrapidly to full power and maintains full power-indefinitely.After you run the engine on the model, inspect the modelclosely to make sure all screws remained tight, the hingesare secure, the prop is secure and all pushrods andconnectors are secure.

Ground check the operational range of your radio before thefirst flight of the day. With the transmitter antenna collapsedand the receiver and transmitter on, you should be able towalk at least 100 feet away from the model and still havecontrol. Have an assistant stand by your model and, whileyou work the controls, tell you what the control surfaces aredoing. Repeat this test with the engine running at variousspeeds with an assistant holding the model, using handsignals to show you what is happening. If the controlsurfaces do not respond correctly, do not fly! Find andcorrect the problem first. Look for loose servo connectionsor broken wires, corroded wires on old servo connectors,poor solder joints in your battery pack or a defective cell, ora damaged receiver crystal from a previous crash.

Keep all engine fuel in a safe place, away from high heat,sparks or flames, as fuel is very flammable. Do not smokenear the engine or fuel; and remember that engine exhaustgives off a great deal of deadly carbon monoxide. Therefore,do not run the engine in a closed room or garage.

Get help from an experienced pilot when learning tooperate engines.

Use safety glasses when starting or running engines.

Do not run the engine in an area of loose gravel or sand; thepropeller may throw such material in your face or eyes.

Keep your face and body as well as all spectators away fromthe plane of rotation of the propeller as you start and runthe engine.

Keep these items away from the prop: loose clothing, shirtsleeves, ties, scarfs, long hair or loose objects such aspencils or screwdrivers that may fall out of shirt or jacketpockets into the prop.

Use a “chicken stick” or electric starter to start the engine.Do not use your fingers to flip the propeller. Make certain theglow plug clip or connector is secure so that it will not popoff or otherwise get into the running propeller.

Make all engine adjustments from behind the rotating propeller.

The engine gets hot! Do not touch it during or right afteroperation. Make sure fuel lines are in good condition so fuelwill not leak onto a hot engine, causing a fire.

To stop a glow engine, cut off the fuel supply by closing offthe fuel line or following the engine manufacturer’srecommendations. Do not use hands, fingers or any otherbody part to try to stop the engine. To stop a gasolinepowered engine an on/off switch should be connected to theengine coil. Do not throw anything into the propeller of arunning engine.

Read and abide by the following excerpts from the Academyof Model Aeronautics Safety Code. For the complete SafetyCode refer to Model Aviation magazine, the AMA web siteor the Code that came with your AMA license.

AMA SAFETY CODE (excerpts)

Failure to follow these safety precautions may resultin severe injury to yourself and others.

ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

Range Check

Ground Check

Balance the Propellers

24

GENERAL1) I will not fly my model aircraft in sanctioned events, airshows, or model flying demonstrations until it has beenproven to be airworthy by having been previously,successfully flight tested.

2) I will not fly my model aircraft higher than approximately400 feet within 3 miles of an airport without notifying theairport operator. I will give right-of-way and avoid flying inthe proximity of full-scale aircraft. Where necessary, anobserver shall be utilized to supervise flying to avoid havingmodels fly in the proximity of full-scale aircraft.

3) Where established, I will abide by the safety rules for theflying site I use, and I will not willfully and deliberately fly mymodels in a careless, reckless and/or dangerous manner.

5) I will not fly my model unless it is identified with my nameand address or AMA number, on or in the model. Note: Thisdoes not apply to models while being flown indoors.

7) I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any devicethat explodes, burns, or propels a projectile of any kind).

RADIO CONTROL1) I will have completed a successful radio equipment groundcheck before the first flight of a new or repaired model.

2) I will not fly my model aircraft in the presence ofspectators until I become a qualified flier, unless assisted byan experienced helper.

3) At all flying sites a straight or curved line(s) must beestablished in front of which all flying takes place with theother side for spectators. Only personnel involved with flyingthe aircraft are allowed at or in the front of the flight line.Intentional flying behind the flight line is prohibited.

4) I will operate my model using only radio control frequenciescurrently allowed by the Federal Communications Commission.

5) I will not knowingly operate my model within threemiles of any pre-existing flying site except inaccordance with the frequency sharing agreementlisted (in the complete AMA Safety Code).

9) Under no circumstances may a pilot or other persontouch a powered model in flight; nor should any part of themodel other than the landing gear intentionally touchthe ground, except while landing.

Since the Giant Big Stik ARF qualifies as a “giant-scale”model and is therefore eligible to fly in IMAA events,we’ve printed excerpts from the IMAA Safety Codewhich follow.

What is Giant-Scale?The concept of large or giant-scale is generally consideredto apply to radio controlled model aircraft with minimumwingspans of 80 inches for monoplanes and 60 inches formulti-wing aircraft. Quarter-scale or larger replicas ofperson-carrying aircraft with proper documentation(minimum 3-view drawing) which do not fit the sizerequirements will also be permitted.

SECTION 1.0: SAFETY STANDARD1.1 Adherence to Code: The purpose of this Safety Code is

to provide a structure whereby all participants, includingspectators, will be aware of the inherent dangers in theoperation of radio controlled aircraft. This code is meantto serve as a minimum guideline to all participants. It isunderstood that the ultimate responsibility for the safetyof any aircraft lies with the owner(s), pilot(s) andspectator(s) involved in any event. It is the responsibilityof all participants to exercise caution when operating, orobserving the operation of all radio controlled aircraft.The pilot/owner of an aircraft will not be dissuaded fromtaking whatever steps they deem necessary, in additionto this code, to insure that their aircraft is safe.

1.2 The most current AMA Safety Code in effect is tobe observed.

SECTION 3.0: SAFETY REVIEW3.4 Flight Testing: All aircraft are to have been flight tested

and flight trimmed with a minimum of six (6) flightsbefore the model is allowed to fly at an IMAASanctioned event.

3.5 Proof of Flight: The completing and signing of theDeclaration section of the Safety Review form (seeSection 3.2) by the pilot (or owner) shall document, asfact, that the noted aircraft has been successfully flighttested and proven airworthy prior to the IMAA event.

Section 4.0: SPOTTER/HELPER4.1 Spotter/Helper Definition: An assistant to aid the pilot

during start-up, and taxing onto the runway. Thespotter/helper will assist the pilot in completing a safe flight.

4.2 Each pilot is required to have a spotter/helper at allIMAA sanctioned events. The event Safety Committeeshould be prepared to assist those pilots who do nothave a spotter/helper to make sure that everyregistered pilot has the opportunity to fly at asanctioned event.

SECTION 5.0: EMERGENCY ENGINE SHUT OFF(Kill Switch)5.1 Magneto spark ignition engines must have a coil-

grounding switch on the aircraft to stop the engine. Thiswill also prevent accidental starting of the engine. Thisswitch shall be readily available to both pilot andspotter/helper. This switch is to be operated manuallyand without the use of the Radio System.

5.2 Engines with battery powered ignition systems musthave a switch to turn off the power from the batterypack to disable the engine from firing. This will alsoprevent accidental starting of the engine. This switch

IMAA SAFETY CODE (excerpts)

25

shall be readily available to both pilot andspotter/helper. This switch shall be operated manuallyand without the use of the Radio System.

5.3 There must also be a means to stop the engine fromthe transmitter. The most common method is tocompletely close the carburetor throat using throttletrim; however, other methods are acceptable. Thisrequirement applies to all glow/gas ignition enginesregardless of size.

SECTION 6.0: RADIO REQUIREMENTS6.1 All transmitters must be FCC type certified.6.2 FCC Technician or higher-class license required for 6

meter band operation only.

The following recommendations are included in the SafetyCode not to police such items, but rather to offer basicsuggestions for enhanced safety. It is expected that IMAAmembers will avail themselves of technological advances assuch become available, to promote the safety of all aircraftand participants.

Servos need to be of a rating capable to handle the loadsthat the control surfaces impose upon the servos. Standardservos are not recommended for control surfaces. Servosshould be rated heavy-duty ounces of torque. For flightcritical control functions a minimum of 45 inch/ounces oftorque should be considered. This should be considered aminimum for smaller aircraft and higher torque servos arestrongly encouraged for larger aircraft. The use of one servofor each aileron and one for each stabilizer half is stronglyrecommended. Use of dual servos is also recommended onlarger aircraft.

On-board batteries should be, at a minimum, 1000mAh upto 20 lbs., 1200mAh to 30 lbs., 1800mAh to 40 lbs., and2000mAh over 40 lbs. flying weight. The number and size ofservos, size and loads on control surfaces, and addedfeatures should be considered as an increase to theseminimums. Batteries should be able to sustain power to theon-board radio components for a minimum of one hour totalflying time before recharging.

Dependable, redundant and fail safe battery systemsare recommended.

The use of anti-glitch devices for long leads is recommended.

There is no maximum engine displacement limit, as it is theposition of this body that an underpowered aircraft presentsa greater danger than an overpowered aircraft. However, theselections of engine size relative to airframe strength andpower loading mandates good discretionary judgment bythe designer and builder. Current AMA maximums forengine displacement are 6.0 cu. in. for two stroke and 9.6cu. in. for four stroke engines. These maximums apply onlyto AMA Sanction competition events such as 511, 512, 515and 520. All non competition events should be sanctionedas Class C events, in which these engine size maximums donot apply.

Generally, it is recommended that no attempt should be madeto fly a radio controlled model aircraft with a gasoline engine inwhich the model aircraft weight would exceed 12 pounds percubic inch of engine displacement (underpowered), or be lessthan 5 pounds per cubic inch of engine displacement(overpowered). Example: Using a 3 cu. in. engine, a modelwould likely be underpowered at an aircraft weight greaterthan 36 pounds. With the same engine, an aircraft weighingless than 15 pounds would likely be overpowered.

Servo arms and control horns should be rated heavy-duty.Glass-filled servo arms and control horns arehighly recommended.

Control surface linkages are listed in order of preference:

1. Cable system (pull-pull). A tiller bar is highlyrecommended along with necessary bracing.

2. Arrow-shaft, fiberglass or aluminum, 1/4" [6.4mm] or5/16" [8mm] OD. Bracing every six (6) to ten (10) inchesis highly recommended.

3. Tube in tube (Nyrod). Bracing every few inches is highlyrecommended. Inner tube should be totally enclosed inouter tube.

4. Hardwood dowel, 3/8" OD. Bracing every six (6) to ten(10) inches is highly recommended.

Hinges should be rated heavy-duty and manufacturedprimarily for use in giant-sized aircraft. Homemade andoriginal design hinges are acceptable if determined to beadequate for the intended use.

Clevis (steel, excluding heavy-duty ball links) andattachment hardware should be heavy-duty 4-40 thread-and-rod type. 2-56 Thread size rod is acceptable for someapplications (e.g. throttle). Clevises must have lock nuts andsleeve (fuel tubing) or spring keepers.

Propeller tips should be painted or colored in a visible andcontrasting manner to increase the visibility of the propellertip arc.

❏ 1. Fuelproof all areas exposed to fuel or exhaust residuesuch as the wing saddle area, the framework aroundthe fuel tank hatch, the top of the fuel tank hatch, etc.

During the last few moments of preparation your mind maybe elsewhere anticipating the excitement of the first flight.Because of this, you may be more likely to overlook certainchecks and procedures that should be performed before themodel is flown. To help avoid this, a check list is provided tomake sure these important areas are not overlooked. Manyare covered in the instruction manual, so whereappropriate, refer to the manual for complete instructions.Be sure to check the items off as they are completed.

CHECK LIST

26

❏ 2. Double-check the C.G. according to themeasurements provided in the manual.

❏ 3. Be certain the battery and receiver are securelymounted in the fuselage. Simply stuffing them intoplace with foam rubber is not sufficient.

❏ 4. Extend your receiver antenna and make sure it hasbeen guided up through the antenna tube.

❏ 5. Balance your model laterally as explained inthe instructions.

❏ 6. Use thread-locking compound to secure criticalfasteners such as the set screws in the wheel collars,screw-lock pushrod connectors, etc.

❏ 7. Add a drop of oil to the axles so the wheels willturn freely.

❏ 8. Make sure all hinges are securely glued in place.❏ 9. Reinforce holes for wood screws with thin CA where

appropriate (servo mounting screws, receiver/batterytray mounting screws, etc.).

❏ 10. Confirm that all controls operate in the correctdirection and the throws are set up according tothe manual.

❏ 11. Make sure there are silicone retainers on all theclevises and that all servo arms are secured to theservos with the screws included with your radio.

❏ 12. Secure connections between servo wires and Y-connectors or servo extensions, and theconnection between your battery pack and the on/offswitch with vinyl tape, heat shrink tubing or specialclips suitable for that purpose.

❏ 13. Make sure any servo extension cords you may haveused do not interfere with other systems (servo arms,pushrods, etc.).

❏ 14. Make sure the fuel lines are connected and arenot kinked.

❏ 15. Balance your propeller (and spare propellers).❏ 16. Tighten the propeller nut and spinner.❏ 17. Place your name, address, AMA number and

telephone number on or inside your model.❏ 18. Cycle your receiver battery pack (if necessary) and

make sure it is fully charged.❏ 19. If you wish to photograph your model, do so before

your first flight.❏ 20. Range check your radio when you get to the flying field.

The Giant Big Stik ARF is a great-flying model that fliessmoothly and predictably. The Giant Big Stik ARF does not,however, possess the self-recovery characteristics of aprimary R/C trainer and should be flown only byexperienced R/C pilots.

Before you get ready to takeoff, see how the model handleson the ground and make sure it steers straight by doing afew practice runs at low speeds on the runway. If you builtyour Giant Big Stik ARF as a taildragger, hold a little “up”elevator to keep the tail wheel on the ground. If you built itwith tricycle gear, keep the elevator neutral or hold a little bitof down to hold the nose on the ground. If necessary, adjustthe tail wheel (or nose wheel) so the model will roll straightdown the runway. Double-check all pushrod connections tomake sure they are all secure.

Remember to takeoff into the wind. When ready, point themodel straight down the runway, hold elevator as necessaryto keep whichever wheel is doing the steering (nose or tail)on the ground, then gradually advance the throttle.Taildraggers: As the model gains speed decrease upelevator, allowing the tail to come off the ground. One of themost important things to remember with a taildragger is toalways be ready to apply right rudder to counteract enginetorque. Gain as much speed as your runway and flying sitewill practically allow before gently applying up elevator,lifting the model into the air. At this moment it is likely thatyou will need to apply more right rudder to counteractengine torque. Be smooth on the elevator stick, allowing themodel to establish a gentle climb to a safe altitude beforeturning into the traffic pattern.

Take Off

CAUTION (THIS APPLIES TO ALL R/C AIRPLANES): If,while flying, you notice an alarming or unusual soundsuch as a low-pitched “buzz,” this may indicate controlsurface flutter. Flutter occurs when a control surface(such as an aileron or elevator) or a flying surface (suchas a wing or stab) rapidly vibrates up and down (thuscausing the noise). In extreme cases, if not detectedimmediately, flutter can actually cause the control surfaceto detach or the flying surface to fail, thus causing loss ofcontrol followed by an impending crash. The best thing todo when flutter is detected is to slow the modelimmediately by reducing power, then land as soon assafely possible. Identify which surface fluttered (so theproblem may be resolved) by checking all the servogrommets for deterioration or signs of vibration. Makecertain all pushrod linkages are secure and free of play. Ifit fluttered once, under similar circumstances it willprobably flutter again unless the problem is fixed. Somethings which can cause flutter are; Excessive hinge gap;Not mounting control horns solidly; Poor fit of clevis pin inhorn; Side-play of wire pushrods caused by large bends;Excessive free play in servo gears; Insecure servomounting; and one of the most prevalent causes of flutter;Flying an over-powered model at excessive speeds.

FLYING

27

For reassurance and to keep an eye on other traffic, it is agood idea to have an assistant on the flight line with you. Tellhim to remind you to throttle back once the plane gets to acomfortable altitude. While full throttle is usually desirable fortakeoff, most models fly more smoothly at reduced speeds.

Take it easy with your Giant Big Stik ARF for the first fewflights, gradually getting acquainted with it as you gainconfidence. Adjust the trims to maintain straight and levelflight. After flying around for a while, and while still at a safealtitude with plenty of fuel, practice slow flight and executepractice landing approaches by reducing the throttle to seehow the model handles at slower speeds. Add power to seehow she climbs as well. Continue to fly around, executingvarious maneuvers and making mental notes (or havingyour assistant write them down) of what trim or C.G.changes may be required to fine tune the model so it fliesthe way you like. Mind your fuel level, but use this first flightto become familiar with your model before landing.

To initiate a landing approach, lower the throttle while on thedownwind leg. Allow the model to slow before extending theflaps. If executing your first landing with flaps you could trythe half-flap setting. When using flaps, it’s also a good ideato keep a few extra “clicks” of power to maintain airspeed.Allow the nose of the model to pitch downward to graduallybleed off altitude. Continue to lose altitude, but maintainairspeed by keeping the nose down as you turn onto thecrosswind leg. Make your final turn toward the runway (intothe wind) keeping the nose down to maintain airspeed andcontrol. Level the attitude when the model reaches therunway threshold, modulating the throttle as necessary tomaintain your glide path and airspeed. If you are going toovershoot, smoothly advance the throttle (always ready onthe right rudder to counteract torque) and climb out, thenretract the flaps and go around to make another attempt.When you’re ready to make your landing flare and the modelis a foot or so off the deck, smoothly increase up elevatoruntil it gently touches down. Once the model is on therunway and has lost flying speed, hold elevator as needed(up or down depending on if you built a nose gear or ataildragger) to hold the wheel that is doing the steering onthe ground.

One final note about flying your model. Have a goal or flightplan in mind for every flight. This can be learning a newmaneuver(s), improving a maneuver(s) you already know, orlearning how the model behaves in certain conditions (suchas on high or low rates). This is not necessarily to improveyour skills (though it is never a bad idea!), but moreimportantly so you do not surprise yourself by impulsivelyattempting a maneuver and suddenly finding that you’ve runout of time, altitude or airspeed. Every maneuver should bedeliberate, not impulsive. For example, if you’re going to do

a loop, check your altitude, mind the wind direction(anticipating rudder corrections that will be required tomaintain heading), remember to throttle back at the top, andmake certain you are on the desired rates (high/low rates).A flight plan greatly reduces the chances of crashing yourmodel just because of poor planning and impulsive moves.Remember to think.

Have a ball! But always stay in control and fly in asafe manner.

GOOD LUCK AND GREAT FLYING!

Fill in and place on or inside your model.

Great Planes U-Can-Do 3D™ 60 ARF Assembly time is only 6-8 hours, from workbench to “Wow!”The interlocking airframe is built from hand-selected woods,the hardware is Great Planes-brand, and the factory-appliedcovering is Top Flite MonoKote. Servos for each elevator andaileron offer added authority and tuning possibilities. Exteriormounting for control surface servos keeps linkages short anddirect and response swift and strong. With an engine from thehigh end of the range and maxed throws, the U-Can-Do 60ARF is everything a 3D star should be. GPMA1270

OTHER ITEMS AVAILABLE FROMGREAT PLANES

Landing

Flight

28

Great Planes Giant Super Chipmunk 1.20 ARF Art Scholl performed airshow magic with his SuperChipmunk for over 25 years. And with the help of GreatPlanes’ magic, you can have this scale replica ready toperform in just 12-15 hours. The trim scheme is authentic,provided by MonoKote on the built-up wings and stab andpaint on the fiberglass fuselage, cowl, wheel pants andlanding gear fairings. Instrument panel decals and a pilotfigure provide extra “eye candy” without extra work. Routingtubes for pushrods, a 3-piece wing and a steerable tailwheeloffer added ease on the ground. Dual servos on each flap,aileron and elevator half put the power to dazzle a crowd atyour fingertips. GPMA1303

Manufactured under license by Pennzoil-Quaker State Company,2004. Hobbico, Inc. 2904 Research Rd, Champaign, IL 61826.

Fuji BT-32B 2.1Gasoline EngineFuji Engines are giant-scale favorites, becauseeach is designed strictlyfor R/C by an engineerwho is also a gasmodeler. Throttlelinkages are short anddirect. Mufflers arecompact, custom unitsthat help preserve scalelooks as they improveperformance. Walbro

carbs are standard, chosen for pinpoint control andequipped with regulating pumps to ensure consistent fuelflow at all times. Flywheels, hubs and crankshafts aredynamically balanced to reduce vibration, stress andelectrical noise. And all operate on a 40:1 gasoline/oil mix,which helps them last up to four times longer than othergasoline engines. Includes a Walbro WT407 carb,Champion RCJ6Y spark plug, firewall mount and rear-mounted muffler. FJIG0033

O.S.® Engines 1.60 FXThe 1.60 FX features dual ball bearings for durability andsmooth operation, plus a low crankcase profile that allowsfor a proportionally taller, semi-squared head – a designrefinement that increases cooling fin area and improvesheat dispersion. The threaded portion of the crankshaft isextra-long for more secure prop and spinner nutengagement, and the needle valve is remotely mounted forsafety during adjustments. The high-speed needle can alsobe mounted horizontally, vertically, or separate from theengine for more installation options! Includes glow plug and2-year warranty. OSMG0660

Futaba 7CAP 7-ChannelPCM Computer Radio For virtually the same priceas some 6-channel radios,you can enjoy 7-channelversatility and the ease ofDial-N-Key programming.Toggle switches areaccessible without takingyour thumbs off the sticks,or your eyes off of yourmodel...and can beassigned to operatealmost any function.

Contrast on the big 72x32 LCD adjusts for maximum visibility,and programming includes both Basic and Advanced menusfor airplanes and helis. Includes an R138DP receiver, 600mAhTx and Rx NiCds, dual output charger and four digital S3151servos. 72MHz only. FUTJ71**

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30

BUILDING NOTES

Kit Purchased Date: _______________________

Where Purchased:_________________________

Date Construction Started: __________________

Date Construction Finished: _________________

Finished Weight: __________________________

Date of First Flight: ________________________

FLIGHT LOG

31

Fuji BT-32 Engine Mounting Template

Drill 19/64" [7.5mm] (or 9/32" [7.2mm) holesat the crossmarks for the 1/4-20 blind nutsthat go into the back of the firewall.

FujiBT-32