install guide for hho kits -...
TRANSCRIPT
AUTOHYDROGEN USA | 909 BRANDERMILL CV, SALT LAKE CITY UTAH 84123
Install Guide for HHO Kits MODELS: FK123/11, FK123/16, FK123/21, FK123/26, FK123/31
Install Guide for HHO KITS April 26, 2016
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CONTENTS
1 Vehicle Compatibility ............................................................................................................................ 3
2 Parts List ................................................................................................................................................ 4
3 HHO Kit Connectivity to the Engine ...................................................................................................... 6
3.1 Physical location of HHO Components ......................................................................................... 7
3.1.1 Location Requirements ......................................................................................................... 7
3.1.2 Attachment Methods ............................................................................................................ 8
3.2 HHO Hose Connections ................................................................................................................. 8
3.2.1 Air Filter Box Connection ...................................................................................................... 9
4 HHO Electrical Connections - AutoHydrogen 60A PWM .................................................................... 10
4.1 KEY SWITCH / IGNITION IN: ......................................................................................................... 11
4.2 GROUND IN WIRE: ...................................................................................................................... 11
4.3 LIQUID CRISTAL DISPLAY IN: ....................................................................................................... 11
4.4 PROBES - FLUID LEVEL SENSOR: .................................................................................................. 11
4.5 AUTO REFIL PUMP IN: ................................................................................................................. 12
4.6 CIRCULATING PUMP IN: .............................................................................................................. 12
4.7 POWER OUT 12-14.5V, TO HHO CELL: ........................................................................................ 13
4.8 12-14.5V POWER IN, FROM CAR BATTERY: ................................................................................ 16
5 Things you should know about your alternator .................................................................................. 17
6 The Theory, auto-hydrogen’s PWM, working principle ...................................................................... 18
7 Thermal Runaway ............................................................................................................................... 18
8 Operating via In Cabin LCD Controller ................................................................................................ 19
8.1 Liquid Crystal Display Functions .................................................................................................. 19
9 Troubleshooting .................................................................................................................................. 21
10 Maintenance ................................................................................................................................... 22
10.1 Regular Inspection ...................................................................................................................... 22
10.1.1 Bubbler Tank ....................................................................................................................... 22
10.1.2 Electrolyte Tank .................................................................................................................. 22
10.2 Yearly Inspection ......................................................................................................................... 22
10.3 Mixing Electrolyte (KOH or NaOH only) ...................................................................................... 22
10.4 How Much Electrolyte and What Concentration do I need? ...................................................... 23
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FIGURES
Figure 1. HHO Kit Components. .................................................................................................................... 4
Figure 2. Engine connectivity for all HHO components, including wiring, water and gas flow, and hose
connections. .................................................................................................................................................. 6
Figure 3. PWM Electrical Connections with Electrolyte Level Probes. ....................................................... 10
Figure 4. HHO Cell Showing Electrical Connections. ................................................................................... 13
Figure 5. In Cabin LDC Control and Status Functions. ................................................................................. 19
Install Guide for HHO KITS April 26, 2016
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1 VEHICLE COMPATIBILITY
FK123/11 All 1920-2016 model year passenger cars to medium-duty trucks equipped with
gasoline or diesel engine size 0.2 to 4.0 liter displacement.
(2 lpm @20 Amps max)
FK123/16 1920-2016 model year passenger cars to medium-duty trucks equipped with
gasoline or diesel engine size 0.25 to 5.0 liter displacement.
(2.5 lpm @25 Amps max)
FK123/21 1920-2016 model year passenger cars to medium-duty trucks equipped with
gasoline or diesel engine size 0.3 to 6.0 liter displacement.
(3 lpm @30 Amps max)
FK123/26 1920-2016 model year passenger cars to medium-duty trucks equipped with
gasoline or diesel engine size 0.35 to 7.0 liter displacement.
(3.5 lpm @35 Amps max)
FK123/31 1920-2016 model year passenger cars to medium-duty trucks equipped with
gasoline or diesel engine size 0.4 to 8.0 liter displacement.
(4.0 lpm @40 Amps max)
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2 PARTS LIST
As shown in the figure below; the HHO kit is comprised of an in cabin controller with LCD display for
controlling the system and monitoring status, a Pulse Width Modulator (PWM) for delivering electrical
power to the hydrogen generator dry cell, a circulating pump that insures gas exits the cell immediately
and electrolyte is replenished, a tandem electrolyte and bubbler tank combo to store electrolyte and
remove chemical and steam from the HHO gas, electrical wiring, circuit breaker, and necessary tubing to
route water and HHO gas.
Figure 1. HHO Kit Components.
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Table 1. HHO Kit Contents.
Kit FK123/11 FK123/16 FK123/21 FK123/26 FK123/31
HHO dry cell Generator
(w/ 316L stainless steel
plates) w/ mounting
bracket
11 Plate
(2 lpm
@20
Amps)
16 Plate
(2.5 lpm
@25
Amps)
21 Plate
(3 lpm
@30
Amps)
26 Plate
(3.5 lpm
@35
Amps)
31 Plate
(4 lpm
@40
Amps)
HHO Specific PWM 60
Amps Constant Current
(Pulse Width
Modulator) with in car
LCD Display
Yes yes yes yes yes
HHO Tandem
Electrolyte Tank (1
liter) & Bubbler Tank
(1 liter) w/ mounting
bracket
Yes yes yes yes yes
4 Pronged Probe for
Fluid Level Sensing Yes yes yes yes yes
Circulating pump 4
L/min, 12V Yes yes yes yes yes
Circuit Breaker 30 amp 30 amp 40 amp 40 amp 40 amp
Power cables (heavy
gauge 8 AGW multi
stranded coper wire)
8 AGW 8 AGW 8 AGW 8 AGW 8 AGW
Connecting hoses
(braided nylon
reinforced food grade
tubing)
3/8” ID 3/8” ID 3/8” ID 3/8” ID 3/8” ID
Key Switch Cable
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3 HHO KIT CONNECTIVITY TO THE ENGINE
Before beginning the actual installation process we recommend you read the installation guide
completely so you have a complete understanding of how to properly install the equipment.
The picture below shows how the kit is connected into the engine, shows the direction of water and gas
flow, and also shows the electrical connections.
Figure 2. Engine connectivity for all HHO components, including wiring, water and gas flow, and hose connections.
What you see in the above diagram is a HHO dry cell connected to the electrolyte tank which has electrolyte filled
just past half way and re-circulates it through the HHO cell from the tank as shown by the red and green arrows. The
top half of the electrolyte tank is where the HHO (hydroxy) Gas will accumulate before it moves to the bubbler.
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The purpose of the bubbler tank is 2 fold...
(1) It filters the HHO gas coming from the top of the electrolyte tank to the bottom of the bubbler tank and through
the water in the bubbler tank (bubbler tank filled with water - no more than half way). This stops harmful steam
carrying electrolyte from making its way to your engine as the water traps it in the bubbler tank. This protects your
engine.
(2) It also stops a possible backfire from your engine igniting the HHO gas while it's still in the hose that takes it to
your engine. It would then continue to the electrolyte tank but... FIRE CANNOT PASS THROUGH THE WATER
IN THE BUBBLER. Although in all our installations we have never experienced a flash back from an engine
backfire ourselves we know that it is possible. We simulate them when testing by purposely igniting the gas coming
out of the bubbler.
The explosion even with such a small amount of HHO gas (less than half a liter) is just unbelievable.
Although many people sell flash arrestors and other safety devices, all of which we tested so far have failed with the
exceptions of a SPRING LOADED PISTON VALVE placed at the top of the bubbler or a BLOW OF
MEMBRANE placed into a hole drilled in the cap of the bubbler. It is the simplest safety device, yet the most
effective. 100% guaranteed to work.
The electrical setup is very basic. Our PWM is used to transfer positive power to your HHO cell from your battery.
The PWM must have a source to trigger this and the best source is to find the wire inside your fuse box responsible
for the check engine light in your dashboard display. The source of the check engine light only gives power when
the engine has already started.
You don’t want electrolysis to start if the engine hasn't started first. When production of HHO gas begins, after the
engine has started, all the HHO gas produced will be consumed immediately keeping your unit safe. This is called a
HHO on demand system which means no Hydroxy gas is stored and all Hydroxy gas produced is consumed
immediately.
3.1 PHYSICAL LOCATION OF HHO COMPONENTS
Our HHO kits have a recirculation pump that guarantees electrolyte properly circulates regardless of the relative
positioning of the HHO dry cell and the electrolyte tank, so unlike other kits the electrolyte tank does not have to be
20 cm above the cell.
3.1.1 Location Requirements
1) HHO Generator - Locate the HHO dry cell so that you can easily see the water flowing through it, and it
can generate a lot of heat so don’t locate it next to other hot components. Locate the cell so you can easily
inspect the electrical connections and make sure the cell plates are not making electrical contact to your
vehicle. For highest gas production the best orientation for the cell is vertical instead of horizontal.
2) Tandem Tanks - Locate the Tandem tanks so you can easily fill them and also see their water level, and
locate them with enough headroom for the water level sensor probe and an optional pressure relief popper.
3) Circulation Pump – The circulation pump will not self-prime but needs to be fed fluid. It pumps from the
electrolyte tank and can be located anywhere between the tank and the HHO cell. We have found that the
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most convenient location is just under the electrolyte tank, this insures that if you can see water in the tank
the pump is primed.
4) PWM - We highly recommend locating the PWM close to the battery to reduce voltage loss across the
wiring (this will help keep the high current wires cool). Keep the wire lengths under 24 inches if possible.
Depending on the current draw the PWM will heat up. To help it stay cool and last longer please avoid
locating in near other hot components, and if you can attach it to the vehicle chassis or frame to help
dissipate its heat.
3.1.2 Attachment Methods
All components are to be located in the engine compartment.
1) HHO Generator – A bracket is provided to secure the
dry cell generator to the chassis of your vehicle. Attach
the bracket securely using the bracket’s hole pattern if
possible. Locate the cell so you can easily inspect the
electrical connections and make sure the cell plates are
not making electrical contact to your vehicle.
2) Tandem Tanks - You can secure the tandem water tanks
to the chassis of your vehicle using the bracket
provided. Just make sure you securely bolt or rivet the
bracket in place using the holes provided.
3) Circulating Pump – The pump is so small it can usually
just hang inline and does not need to be secured to the
chassis.
4) PWM – The PWM can be secured to the chassis using
bolts or rivets or it can be strapped in providing more
flexible access. We recommend bolting it in which will
also provide a good chassis ground.
3.2 HHO HOSE CONNECTIONS Ample hose length is provided for most well planned
installations. Carefully plan your installation and then cut
your hose to length as you make each connection. All hose connections are tight fit press on type and do
not require hose clamps, and if seated fully will not leak. In fact they can be difficult to pull off and if you
want to remove them you will have to twist them while pulling hard.
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After you have routed your HHO hoses you should secure them with zip ties, this will insure that they
stay in place through the life of your system.
3.2.1 Air Filter Box Connection
HHO gas produced by the system is injected to the air filter box so it will
mix with the incoming fresh air as it travels to the engine. Do not feed
HHO gas into the engine after the air filter because the air filter provides a
safety barrier that protects your engine from chemical, moisture, and HHO
during startup.
We recommend drilling a hole in your air filter box below the level of the
air filter and threading a hose fitting for the hose connection. You can also
simply feed the hose straight into the box and seal the egress with
silicone.
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Figure 3. PWM Electrical Connections with Electrolyte Level Probes.
4 HHO ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS - AUTOHYDROGEN 60A PWM
All electrical connections for the HHO system are managed by the PWM and each connection is
discussed in this section.
* FIND A LOCATION FOR THE PWM AS CLOSE TO THE BATTERY AS POSSIBLE
The PWM has 4 pins for power IN & 4 pins for power OUT as opposed to 2 IN 2 OUT of the older
model, and wiring is essentially the same as the previous models.
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4.1 KEY SWITCH / IGNITION IN: a) Single wire + positive (1.5 mm²) should be connected to terminal (1) from ignition source.
This is the correct method of connecting the board for long term/everyday use.
*(Ignition source = Check engine light (the best source we’ve found). There are other sources.
b) If you use a power supply, connect to (+positive) power from power supply. You will need 12.8 volts
for the PWM to switch on. Under 12.8V PWM goes into auto shut down mode to protect car battery.
*HHO system must only work when engine is running.
**THIS IS CALLED HHO ON DEMAND.
***It must not work when the key is turned to ignition and the engine is off.
4.2 GROUND IN WIRE: Single wire (1.5 mm²) to terminal (2) and the other end fastened to chassis.
4.3 LIQUID CRISTAL DISPLAY IN: LCD is connected to these 2 pins, terminals (3&4), there is no polarity.
4.4 PROBES - FLUID LEVEL SENSOR IN: Set of four Stainless steel probes should be connected to this connector terminal (pins 5, 6, 7 & 8) in
order for the Liquid Crystal Display (LCD) to show fluid levels and for the automatic refill pump to work.
This is also needed for automatic/emergency shutdown to work, when the electrolyte tank is empty or
over full.
Connect from left to right BLACK/RED/WHITE/GREEN wires. Check wiring diagram.
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4.5 AUTO REFIL PUMP: This is to connect an optional Tank with a pump (similar to windshield washer Tanks). Its purpose is to
automatically refill your "Electrolyte tank" with distilled water. The tank with pump should be connected
to this connector, (+) Pos left terminal (9) and (-) Neg right terminal (10). This is PWM controlled also
and supports Max 12V - 1.5 Amp pump without cooling of the Power MOSFET.
CAUTION: BE CAREFUL NOT TO REVERSE POLARITY
*Non return valve (check Valve) must be used between refill tank and electrolyte tank so that
electrolyte is not siphoned back into refill tank from the electrolyte tank.
4.6 CIRCULATING PUMP: This is to connect a Circulating pump. Its purpose is to keep your HHO cell full of electrolyte at all times
increasing gas output and helping it run cooler. Eliminates the need to install the tank 20cm above the
height of HHO Cell. (Useful when you don't have much room in the engine bay) The pump should be
connected to this connector, (+) Pos to the left terminal (11) and (-) Neg to the right terminal (12) as
shown in diagram. This is PWM controlled also and supports Max 12V - 1.5 Amp pump without cooling
of the Power MOSFET.
CAUTION: BE CAREFUL NOT TO REVERSE POLARITY
*When installing the circulating pump please make sure that it is placed lower than the electrolyte
tank. The pumps we use are not self-priming. The advantage of this type of pump is that they do not
restrict fluid flow if they are turned off or break down.
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4.7 POWER OUT 12-14.5V, TO HHO CELL: The HHO cell has multiple electrical connection points for positive (+) and
negative (-) and all wiring sites are equivalent. You only need to connect to
one wiring site and you can use one site for both positive (+) and Negative (-)
connections or you can use different sites for positive (+) and negative (-).
The plates are stacked with (4) neutral or unwired plates separating each
positive and negative plate pair as shown in the figure below. It doesn’t
matter which power plate is used for positive (+) or negative (-) but they
need to alternate.
As shown in the figure start on one end and using the Black Power Harness
wire the outside power plate to negative (-) and then by skipping every other
power plate, wire only every other power plate to negative (-), leaving the
positive (+) power plates unwired. Then you can go back and using the Red
Power Harness connect all the unwired power plates to positive (+). The
result is the power plates alternate between positive (+) and negative (-) from
one side to the other.
Positive (+)
connection points
Positive (+)
connection points
Negative (-)
connection points
Figure 4. HHO Cell Showing Electrical Connections.
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Connect your HHO Cell Positive (+) connection points to the PWM using HEAVY DUTY WIRE (10 mm²)
and one wire per connection point.
These on the left are good. Make
sure they are the ones for 6mm wire,
the ears at the back are slightly larger
and they are the biggest available.
Squeeze them gently with pliers at
the front if they don’t seem tight
when you slide them on to the male
connector.
These on the right are no good do not use them. They will give you trouble.
These on the left are good and make a
great, tight connection.
These on the right are no good and make
a poor connection that will give you
trouble.
MAKE SURE YOUR CONNECTION IS TIGHT AND TRY TO KEEP YOUR WIRES AS SHORT AS POSSIBLE. (10
mm² HEAVY DUTY WIRE WILL HANDLE AT LEAST 50 AMPS @ 12V OVER A SHORT DISTANCE). Use a
proper crimping tool for size of wire and type connector.
*The PWM only supplies Positive (+) Power to the HHO Cell.
*Negative (-) Power to the HHO Cell is achieved by:
1. Grounding Negative terminals from the HHO Cell to the car
chassis or
2. Running cables from Negative terminals on the HHO Cell to
the vehicles Battery.
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4.8 12-14.5V POWER IN, FROM CAR BATTERY: Connect your BATTERY terminal Pos (+) to this terminal using HEAVY DUTY WIRE (10 mm²).
If you’re using over 25 amps double up on the wires.
MAKE SURE YOUR CONNECTION IS TIGHT
AND TRY TO KEEP YOUR WIRES AS SHORT
AS POSSIBLE. (10 mm² HEAVY DUTY WIRE
WILL HANDLE AT LEAST 50 AMPS @ 12V
OVER A SHORT DISTANCE). Use a proper crimping tool for size of wire
and type connector.
CAUTION: YOU MUST INSTALL A CIRCUIT BREAKER OR FUSE BETWEEN PWM
AND THE CAR BATTERY. PLACE IT AS CLOSE TO BATTERY AS POSSIBLE.
These on the left are very good. Select the
right rating for your HHO Cell.
These on the right are ok but sometimes
tend to melt or break.
# The Enclosures we use with our PWM PCB, are made of thick aluminum and act as a heat sink to
cool the POWER MOSFETS. It also grounds the board automatically to the chassis, but it is a good idea
to ground, through the ground connection (2) on the board as well. So far we have not seen the need
for a fan to be installed but it can be if needed.
# DOUBLE CHECK ALL YOUR CONNECTIONS!
IF YOU MAKE A MISTAKE YOU MAY BURN OUT THE PWM BOARD
Once all HHO related electrical wiring is in place go back and secure everything using zip ties,
this includes securing the high current wiring, low current wiring, and the circulation pump.
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5 THINGS YOU SHOULD KNOW ABOUT YOUR ALTERNATOR
1. Alternators have a maximum rating anything from 35 amps to 200+ amps.
2. This is the maximum amps your alternator can give you.
3. It means it can give you those maximum amps momentarily at about 3500 RPM.
4. Continuously it can give you at least half those amps without suffering any damage.
5. If you draw more than half the maximum rating you will eventually burn out the
regulator on the alternator and perhaps the alternator itself.
6. Commonsense says, that a 200amp alternator could give you 60%+ continuously.
7. Whereas a 35 amp alternator even 40% continuously could be a strain on it.
Knowing all of this… it is not wise purchasing a HHO system that runs at 60amps when your 1964
model VW beetle has a 35amp alternator. Balance is the key to success with HHO.
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6 THE THEORY, AUTO-HYDROGEN’S PWM, WORKING PRINCIPLE
Most car alternators put out 14 to 14.4 volts and this is controlled by the alternators
regulator.
The PWM is designed to protect your alternator and your battery.
It does this by dropping back the amperage automatically when the car puts out
lower volts.
Most cars whilst idling put out less volts and amps. Especially while idling and
under the added strain of a HHO generator, air-condition, headlights or any other
current drawing appliances fitted to your car.
When your alternator gives you less than 13.8Volts the PWM will cut back the
amperage to the HHO cell 10% for every 0.1volts under that.
13.8V or more FULL amps
13.7V 10% less amps
13.6V 20% less amps
13.5V 30% less amps
13.4V 40% less amps
13.3V 50% less amps
13.2V 60% less amps
13.1V 70% less amps
13.0V 80% less amps
12.9V 90% less amps
12.8V 100% less amps which effectively means auto shut down of HHO system.
7 THERMAL RUNAWAY
The PWM will protect your HHO Cell from “Thermal Runaway” by keeping the amps of your HHO Cell
at the figure you have PRESET. It will not pass that amount no matter how many amps are requested
by your HHO Cell while it heats up. Make sure your preset figure is within the bounds of the HHO Cells
Rating or you will burn out the HHO Cell.
The PWM effectively stops the vicious cycle of Thermal Runaway in its tracks.
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8 OPERATING VIA IN CABIN LCD CONTROLLER
Locate the LCD comtroller in the cabin of your vehicle in a convenient location that is easy to reach and
easy to see while you are driving. The in cabin controller provides all the control and status need to
safely operate the HHO system.
Figure 5. In Cabin LDC Control and Status Functions.
8.1 LIQUID CRYSTAL DISPLAY FUNCTIONS 1. Pressing the on off button far left turns on or off the PWM
and HHO system
2. Using the arrows left/right adjusts the brightness of the
display.
3. Press OK button changes to maximum amperage adjustment
menu. Use the arrows left/right to set the maximum amps
you want HHO cell to draw. Then press the OK button once
more to return to the display screen.
4. The two pump icons:
a. The one on the left rotates when the circulating pump
is working.
b. The one on the right rotates when the auto refill pump
works (momentarily).
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5. Duty Cycle %:
a) Indicates how often current is applied to the HHO cell.
b) 95% current is applied most the time.
c) 5% current is applied a small percentage of the time.
d) 80% at initial startup is a good operating point that
will provide headroom for when the cell heats up.
e) note: To increase duty cycle you may need to
decrease electrolyte concentration.
6. Fluid level indicator shows the levels in your electrolyte tank,
a. 3 Bars = overfull, Have a look and make sure there is enough room for HHO gas
at the top off the tank. If not remove some liquid
with a syringe. Check that electrolyte doesn’t spill
over into the bubbler.
b. 2 Bars = full, this is the correct indication and
should show most of the time.
c. 1 Bar = low, auto refill pump comes on
automatically to add distilled water from reserve
tank.
d. Zero Bars = empty. You should not let this happen.
Add water before this happens.
e. EMPTY means, auto shutdown of your HHO system and PWM to protect it from
damage / burnout.
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9 TROUBLESHOOTING
PWM will not switch on:-
Check your fuse or circuit breaker from car battery.
Make sure pins 1 and 2 are connected.
Make sure you have a minimum of 12.8 volts going to PWM or it will be in auto
shutdown mode.
If not using fluid level sensor check that you have bridged pins (5 & 7) see diagram in
section 4.
If you are using fluid level sensor check that electrolyte is at the correct levels. Too low
means auto shut down of HHO system.
PWM shows less than 13.8Volts while driving:-
See an auto electrician, your regulator may be malfunctioning.
Your alternator is too small for the size HHO cell you are running.
There are volts but no amps:-
Check hoses for blockages or kinks.
Electrolyte is not getting to your cell make sure you can see electrolyte in the HHO Cell.
Amps too low:-
You may need a higher concentration of electrolyte.
You may have set the amperage too low from the display.
Wires from battery to PWM or from PWM to HHO Cell are hot to the touch:-
Use thicker wire or double up using the other connectors as well.
Doubling wires is good idea in any case.
Fuel economy is not as good as expected:-
Make sure your ECU mitigation devices are working correctly
If you are using the Volo HHO chip make sure you have followed the directions for
installing and training the chip, and leave the HHO gas production level constant
throughout training and don’t change it after training. Constant production is required
because the chip selects fuel maps based on readings coming from the engine and they
are dependent on the HHO gas level.
We recommend setting the PWM to generate no more than 0.5 lpm for each liter of
engine displacement. The most economical ratio may vary vehicle to vehicle.
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10 MAINTENANCE
10.1 REGULAR INSPECTION
10.1.1 Bubbler Tank
Monitor water level in the bubbler tank. You just need to insure that there is water in the bubbler so
bubbling actually occurs. You always want to maintain a water barrier between the HHO gas in the
bubbler and the gas coming in from the electrolyte tank. The steam coming in with the HHO gas will
usually maintain a water level, but if you are in a dry climate and the water in the bubbler dries up you
should fill it half full with distilled water. Running dry is dangerous because the bubbler blocks a
flashback if it ever occurs.
10.1.2 Electrolyte Tank
Electrolyte in the electrolyte tank will usually last for years but you need to continually refill the water
level using distilled water as it is consumed. HHO is generated by converting distilled water into
hydrogen and oxygen so this is the desired process. All you need to do is watch the water levels on your
in cabin LCD display and refill the tank when needed. If you forget it is safe and the PWM will
automatically shut down the HHO system. You will want to consider topping this off each time you
refuel so always carry a bottle of distilled water with you.
10.2 YEARLY INSPECTION Yearly you should inspect all hose and electrical connections.
Inspect the electrical connections to make sure wires are not loose, burning, and all wiring is safely tied
down. Replace all damaged wires as needed.
Inspect all hoses to insure that there are no leaks. If you find leaks just replace with new hose.
It is also a good idea to consider draining the fluid form the system each year and rebuilding it with
known electrolyte concentration. This is not necessary but over time the electrolyte concentration may
decrease, and if you are not able to get the current draw and HHO production you desire you may need
to increase the concentration.
In some extremely cold climates you may want to either winterize your system by draining it, or you can
refill with an extra high electrolyte concentration that has a much lower freeze point.
10.3 MIXING ELECTROLYTE (KOH OR NAOH ONLY) The only electrolytes that are approved for use with this HHO cell are potassium hydroxide
(KOH) or sodium hydroxide (NaOH).
ALWAYS PRE-MIX THE ELECTROLYTE: "First fill your OPEN container with the amount
of water desired and then add electrolyte slowly whilst stirring gently"...........
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"If you do it the other way around, (KOH or NaOH) first and then water you will get a VERY VIOLENT
REACTION and possibly sustain chemical burns to your person."
10.4 HOW MUCH ELECTROLYTE AND WHAT CONCENTRATION DO I NEED? You will only need 1L of electrolyte water to initialize any of our Hexagon Dry Cells including
filling our electrolyte tank, so be prepared to store the leftover in a labeled plastic bottle that
seals well for when you may need it again.
Each Cell size has a maximum amperage rating. With an electrolyte concentration of 3% they
will go just under that rating and with 5% just over.
SO USE 5% ELECTROLYTE CONCENTRATION FOR A PWM CONTROLLED SYSTEM
AND 3% FOR A DC SYSTEM RUNNING WITHOUT A PWM.
For a 5% solution you can pour a 50g satchel of electrolyte into 950 ml's of distilled water, and
for a 3% solution you can pour a satchel into 1600 ml's of distilled water.
Fill the electrolyte in the tank no more than 60% (just past half way, 1/2 an inch above the
middle fitting) because it will expand when hot and there will be no room for the HHO gas
produced.
Then if overtime if you can't get to the desired amperage add small amounts of additional KOH
till the amperage is reached or the cell does not respond to additional electrolyte because the
concentration is too high
The cell will usually keep responding until you reach 28% concentration.
Highly concentrated electrolyte usually means more HHO gas being produced but having too
much concentration may have Drawbacks.
For example: Severe overheating to the point that you will damage your cell or even have leaks
of caustic fluids in your engine bay.
The auto-hydrogen PWM shows the duty cycle in the lower left corner of the LCD display, how
much electrical energy is being applied. When the cell is still cold you should have the lowest
possible duty cycle with the desired amps in the display. As the cell heats up it will keep the
amps to what has been set by increasing the duty cycle.
Lowest possible duty cycle with the desired amps means the electrolyte is just right. As the cell
heats up the duty cycle will increase a little.