inside ffany˜s big fundraiser - footwear news · 10/7/2019 · *15% of the proceeds from the romy...
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Inside FFANY,s Big FundraiserFO OT W E A R N E WS .C O M / O CTO B E R 7, 2 0 1 9 / @ FO OT W E A R N E WS
A Q UA RT E R C E N T U RY A N D $ 57 M I L L I O N L AT E R , QVC I S ST I L L
F I G H T I N G FO R A B R E AST CA N C E R CU R E , T H A N KS TO I TS
C O M M I T T E D L E A D E R , M I K E G EO R G E , A N D PASS I O N AT E T E A M ,
I N C LU D I N G SU RV I VO R A N D H OST CA R O L Y N G R AC I E .
AT EASY SPIRIT, WE MOVE FOR WOMEN.
WITH FFANY, TOGETHER WE MOVE FOR PINK.
In honor of Breast Cancer Awareness Month, Easy Spirit is proud
to partner with FFANY Shoes on Sale to donate 15%* of the proceeds
of the Easy Spirit limited-edition Move For Pink Romy Sneaker to fund
groundbreaking breast cancer research.
*15% of the proceeds from the Romy Move for Pink Sneaker on easyspirit.com will be donated to FFANY Shoes on Sale from September 10 to November 9, 2019 for up to $10,000.
easyspirit.com/moveforpink @easyspiritofficial @easyspirit
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C O N T E N T S
ON THE COVERPhotographed by GENE SMIRNOV in the QVC studios in West Chester, Pa.
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“We are keeping it more real. We got lost in what the purpose was and what we were all in the room for.” - FFANY’S JOHN HERON ON CHANGES TO ITS BREAST CANCER CHARITY EVENT
INSIDER 9 The Luxury
ChallengeSustainability and anxiety over Hong Kong protests were hot topics in Europe.
15 FN SpyInside one New York chef’s passion for fashion and food.
16 New ChapterHow Rockport is charging ahead under new owners.
FFANY SHOES ON SALE 26 � e Network
ProviderQVC’s dedication to fi ghting breast cancer spans 25 years and is still going strong.
36 In� uential Figure AwardJamie Salter of Authentic Brands Group is changing the fashion paradigm.
18 FN InsightsTechnology is making material selection more eco-friendly.
FN STYLE 21 � e Top 10
Shoes of PFWFrom hot pink platforms to sport sandals, FN presents the best of spring ’20.
24 Paris When It SizzlesHow infl uencers make the most of the week; Chanel’s street style; the city’s most viral moments.
38 Company of the YearHow Designer Brands Inc. evolved beyond traditional retail.
40 Designer of the YearRebecca Minko� ’s mission to empower women is paying o� .
FN PICK 42 Catwalk
CrasherGigi Hadid fends o� an unexpected guest at Chanel in Paris.
30
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ootwearnews.comA S N E A K P E E K A T S O M E O F O U R B E S T U P C O M I N G C O N T E N T .
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ALL THE TOP SHOE TRENDS FROM SHANGHAI FASHION WEEK Week of Oct. 21FN’s Asia contributor, Marianna Cerini, reports back from China on the biggest footwear themes on the runway.
Decline in department store sales in August 2019
Decline in overall retail sales in Hong Kong
Decline in visitors to the territory
SOURCE: HONG KONG TOURISM BOARD
Hong Kong’s Plummeting Retail Sales Put a Chill on Luxury Brands
HOW ATHLETIC BRANDS ARE TRYING TO MAKE THE OLYMPICS RELEVANT AGAIN Week of Oct. 14Olympic viewership is on the decline, and yet brands continue to invest in the global games. With the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo approaching, execs discuss how and why they’re banking on the major event.
CELEBRITIES WHO HAVE UNDERGONE A DRAMATIC STYLE TRANSFORMATION
Week of Oct. 7When Jennifer Lopez appeared at Milan Fashion Week in a version of the unforgettable Versace green dress she wore to the 2000 Grammy Awards, it sparked thoughts about her dramatic style transformation through the years — and how other big names have changed with the times. Jennifer Lopez walks in
Versace’s spring ’20 show
A guest visits the newly opened Japan Olympic Museum, which celebrates the Tokyo 2020 Games
I Love Pretty fall ’18 show at Shanghai
Fashion Week
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QVC PRESENTS FFANY SHOES ON SALE
WARM CONGRATULATIONS TO THIS YEARÕS EVENT HONOREES:
QVC, INC., JODI & JEROME FISHER HUMANITARIAN AWARD
REBECCA MINKOFF, DESIGNER OF THE YEAR
JAMIE SALTER, INFLUENTIAL FIGURE IN FASHION
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“Th e world is crying out for change, and it is our responsibility to act now. Th e younger generation is standing up and telling us that our house is on fi re, and that we need to respond like we are in a
crisis — because in fact it is a crisis.”
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— STELLA MCCARTNEY, IN HER SHOW NOTES AT PARIS FASHION WEEK
Th e LuxuryChallenge
What dominated the Europe conversation? Sustainability was in the spotlight, political unrest in Hong Kong fueled anxiety and a new class of “it” shoe brands broke through.
BY KATIE ABEL AND STEPHANIE HIRSCHMILLER
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Respondents in an Accenture survey said it was important for retailers to be eco-minded
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SUSTAINABILITY IS FINALLY STARTING TO RESHAPE HOW BRANDS DO BUSINESSWhen guests arrived at Stella McCartney’s show at
the opulent Opera Garnier last Monday, they found
something a bit unexpected.
Instead of the usual show notes on their seats,
there was a timeline of the label’s long list of green
accomplishments. It highlighted the designer’s
fall ’19 co-branded vegan and sustainable Hunter
boot, the 2018 vegan Stan Smith collaboration
(McCartney has been a longtime partner of Adi-
das) and the label’s own eco-friendly Loop sneaker
— also introduced last year.
A day earlier, McCartney — who partnered with
LVMH this summer— gathered environmental
activists for a pre-show roundtable discussion.
The British designer has long been a leader in
sustainability and ethical sourcing, and now the
rest of the luxury industry finally appears to be
getting on board.
At the beginning of Paris Fashion Week, Kering
committed to full carbon neutrality, a month after
it helped bring together dozens of top brands to
sign the G7 fashion pact. At Dior, creative director
Maria Grazia Chiuri styled models with braids like
teen activist Greta Thunberg and used 164 trees
for her set — which will all be replanted in and
around the French capital. In Milan, the indus-
try came together at the Green Carpet Fashion
Awards, which drew widespread interest.
While there’s no question sustainability is in the
spotlight, the high-end sector has lagged behind,
in part because of consumers’ habits. “People have
long been making conscious choices in how they
eat, sleep and travel — but how they dress has
been last on the list,” said Ida
Petersson, womenswear buy-
ing director at London-based
Browns Fashion.
Nevertheless, many younger
brands have built their labels
around sustainable principles
rather than factoring them in
later. Marine Serre, who also
showed in Paris, has been
working with upcycled and
overstocked components from
the beginning, but a consumer
would have no idea, which, she
said, is the whole point. “That’s
not the idea I’m trying to sell,”
said the designer. “I want to
do amazing things with what
is already there, and for me,
that’s normal.”
The title of her show was
Marée Noire, or “Black Tide,”
and half of the looks featured
recycled materials, such
as black PVC trench coats
fashioned from ocean-waste
plastic bottles.
The whole concept of
sustainability is becoming even
more rooted in the design ethos
of today’s up-and-coming tal-
ents. “It’s the backbone of everything we do,” said
Spencer Phipps, an LVMH Prize 2019 finalist. He
prefers to use the word “responsible” because he
believes “sustainable” is an ambiguous term.
For Phipps, that involves using organic cottons,
local production, recycled or biodegradable corn-
starch bags, and upcycled and recycled fabrics. He
only works with factories that share his principles,
from waste disposal to energy efficiency. “I give
them a questionnaire that’s three pages long,” he
said during a recent event hosted by 24S to launch
a capsule collection from the prize finalists.
Similarly, Emily Bode of Bode is also up to the
challenge. About 40% of her production is one of
a kind, made either from antique textiles or dead-
stock. In such cases, scalability is often cited as
an issue, but she maintains that it’s about “being
incredibly good at sourcing and having a strong
network of suppliers.” This includes working with
companies that resell fabrics from shut-down
mills. “It’s also about knowing in advance what
you envision selling,” she said, explaining that she
often stockpiles textiles to create a warehouse ele-
ment for buyers to shop.
While the ballet pumps Bode showed in Paris
in June were repurposed, she said she’s looking
forward to creating her own footwear for fall ’20.
“Now there are amazing young designers who
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T H E B I G S T O R Y
THE BOTTEGA BOOMHOW THE ITALIAN FASHION HOUSE IS WINNING — FROM STREET STYLE TO THE SHOP FLOOR.
Daniel Lee, the architect behind fall’s hottest shoes — the square-toed knot sandals and mesh pumps — did it again for spring ’20. The designer’s new Bottega collection included a simple two-strap heeled sandal done in the label’s puffed-style leathers with a twisted motif — as well as new takes on the house’s intrecciato fine weaving technique on a variety of silhouettes. Here’s why retailers are banking on another blockbuster season.
“Bottega Veneta was the show of Milan Fashion Week and probably of the season. Daniel Lee’s collection was fresh, cool and modern, but stunning and commercial at the same time. We are already having amazing success with his [debut offering], and spring ’20 will be a good season for Bottega shoes at Harrods. Their mules are definitely a must-have.” — Alberto Oliveros, GMM at Kurt Geiger, who is responsible for buying men’s, women’s and children’s shoes for Harrods.
“[The brand] took the fashion world by storm last season creating waiting lists for Daniel Lee’s new designs. This runway delivery looked fantastic and continues to deliver the must-have fashion you can wear all day.” — Erica Russo, Bloomingdale’s VP and fashion director, accessories and beauty
“Consumers are shopping smarter these days, and want to spend on something they will get more out of at the end. The new Bottega rubber soles are the perfect example for this. The quilted leather sandals are so chic, and the sole allows [the consumer] to wear them almost 24/7.” — Tiffany Hsu, buying director at Mytheresa
have this way of thinking ingrained into their
labels,” said Petersson. “For so long, sustainable
brands were just hemp and hippie.”
Other big eco-friendly debuts for spring ’20
came from Onward Luxury Group, which recently
started the OLG Lab — focused on new talents,
innovative projects and sustainability.
The company launched sneaker label F_WD
during Milan Fashion Week last February, and
its second new venture is elevated flip-flop line
Carlotha Ray, which is made in Italy with 100%
natural rubber from Madagascar. (A F_WD
Bottega Veneta on the MFW runway
Carlotha Ray natural rubber flip-flops are designed by Mariela Schwarz Montiel
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T H E B I G S T O R Y
Protesters clash with anti-riot police in Hong Kong during China’s 70th anniversary
AMERICAN SPIRITTHESE U.S. DESIGNERS BROUGHT INCLUSIVE MESSAGING TO PARIS FASHION WEEK.
Brother VelliesAurora James presented Brother Vellies for the first time at Paris Fashion Week, showing an eclectic collection that emphasized the designer’s focus on femininity and craftsmanship. “I was here a lot this summer and was really inspired by the things I was doing,” she said. New footwear styles include woven leather sandals with Victorian motifs and metal chain detailing, woven raffia looks crocheted by hand with wood platform heels and Swarovski hand-embellished boots and sandals with ostrich feather
detailing. Traditional African-inspired styles are reflected in the Springbok African Camp Sandal.
Kerby Jean-RaymondThe power of Jean-Raymond at Pyer Moss is undeniable. The Haitian-American designer, who was also just elevated to artistic director of Reebok’s newly created Studies division, was the architect of one of New York Fashion Week’s most important and memorable shows. He took the collection to Paris on a smaller scale, hosting a cocktail and preview for his “Sister" collection there. “I don’t want to fall victim to being one of those designers who feels validated by coming to Paris and having a runway show,” he told FN. “I’m building a movement in New York, specifically in my own neighborhood where I grew up.” He’s also staging smaller
shows in cities like Lagos, Nigeria, and Dubai — fashion stops off the main circuit.
TelfarBuzzy New Yorker Telfar Clemens made a big statement at the start of Paris Fashion Week, unveiling a surprise Converse collaboration. The designer’s unisex take for this co-ed show involved new interpretations of the Chuck 70, Pro Leather and ERX styles, inspired by a trip to the brand’s design archives. The Pro became a slip-on, the ERX was worked into a sandal and the Chuck 70 was transformed with graphics riffing off the ready-to-wear. Jersey sets, tracks and tees drew inspiration from Converse heritage designs for athletes.
The show — which focused on strong messages of inclusivity — took place in a concert hall and featured live music. It ended with a dance off.
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tors, which began as a dispute over a proposed
extradition bill, have taken a toll on tourism, with
the total number of visitors sinking nearly 40% in
August to 3.59 million, according to data released
last week by the Hong Kong Tourism Board.
“The situation is troubling, and certainly for
our businesses, it is unprecedented,” said Peter
Harris, president of Pedder Group, which operates
On Pedder and the shoe division at Lane Crawford.
“Through the Pedder Group’s various businesses,
we have a healthy balance of loyal Hong Kong
customers and visitors, but we have been impacted
by customer sentiment, and trading hours have
been affected. Our focus has been on the safety of
in-store teams and customers, and maintaining the
service levels we are known for.”
The bulk of the tourism drop has come from
visitors from mainland China, who have histori-
cally been a reliable source of income for high-end
brands in Hong Kong.
“It’s such a crucial market, and the situation is
having ripple effects because of the city’s position
as a luxury and fashion center. Anything nega-
tive impacts the perception of brands throughout
the world,” said Franklin Chu, managing direc-
tor of Azoya International, a provider of cross-
border e-commerce solutions to
assist retailers looking to expand
into China. “A lot of brands have
been successful without making
too much of an investment in
e-commerce. This will be kind of a
wakeup call for them.”
The government reported the
worst year-over-year decline in
retail sales on record, with the
number falling 23% in August.
Among the sectors most impacted
is luxury fashion, as analysts
estimate that Hong Kong accounts
for between 5% and 10% of global
sales of luxury goods. “There is an air of anxiety
and sadness all around, and people are gener-
ally reluctant to spend,” said Bertrand Mak, who
founded R. Sanderson in 2016, a premium spinoff
of London-based Rupert Sanderson. (The venture
is a partnership between Mak and the namesake
designer, who has a minority stake.) “There is a
guilt [associated with] pleasure, especially retail
therapy. The general consensus is to be more dis-
creet and low-profile. People are still spending, but
more online and abroad. Many are leaving the city
to seek sanctuary,” Mak said.
Still, unlike the mega luxury brands that have
been banking on Hong Kong to drive huge growth
numbers, R. Sanderson has an advantage of being
small and nimble.
“Our two standalone stores are in the most
prestigious malls in Hong Kong: Landmark and
Elements. For me, it has always been about gen-
erating experiences — we offer intimate art and
12
Aurora James with her models at the Brother Vellies PFW presentation
sneaker is priced at $330, while a Carlotha Ray
flip-flop is $125.)
“Generation Z definitely wants to buy sustain-
ability, and we have to listen to them,” said CEO
Fabio Ducci. “It doesn’t necessarily mean higher
prices. It’s a matter of focus through research and
product development, and we're investing a lot.”
While the industry is moving forward, getting
sustainability right is a big challenge for every
company, especially as materials and processes
rapidly evolve.
“It’s a really complex question and issue. As a
company and also personally, I feel comfortable to
take little steps season by season,” said Sandra San-
dor, the designer behind Budapest womenswear la-
bel Nanushka. “We’re trying to be very transparent
about what stage we are in — what we’re trying to
improve each season. The reason for that is it’s a
quite slow process. It’s not black and white.”
For example, when the designer pondered real
leather or a fake version (which is actually plastic),
she wondered which was actually better. “One
doesn’t have animals. On the other hand, a bag of
real leather will be with you for decades. A bag from
alternative leather would probably fade quickly.”
To that end, Nanushka’s bags and shoes are
crafted from vegetable-tanned leather, while ready-
to-wear is made of vegan leather and meets EU
regulations for not using certain harmful chemi-
cals for production.
HONG KONG PROTESTS ARE GETTING WORSE — AND THEY’VE ALREADY CHILLED LUXURY SALES Nearly four months after ongoing pro-democracy
protests broke out in Hong Kong, the territory’s
status as a global hub for luxury retail may be in
jeopardy.
While high-end fashion players are grappling
with uncertainty surrounding Brexit in the U.K.
and concerns about the economy and the chal-
lenged department store sector in the U.S., the top
worry during fashion month was about the Hong
Kong landscape.
The clashes between police and demonstra-
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“OUR FOCUS HAS BEEN ON THE SAFETY OF IN-STORE TEAMS AND CUSTOMERS ...” —PETER HARRIS, HONG KONG-BASED PEDDER GROUP
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matcha tea-making workshops in our stores, iden-
tifying the link between such experiences with my
creations, often infl uenced by art. There is a level
of trust that enables us to meet clients’ requests.
We visit their homes and offi ces, or connect online
via WhatsApp messaging and delivery services,”
Mak said.
Harris said that Pedder Group also is ac-
celerating its online eff orts and connecting with
consumers through social media. “We have seen
a substantial increase of customers who may
not want to visit our physical stores, and instead
have chosen to purchase on Lanecrawford.com,”
the executive said.
In store, the retailer continues to focus on
experiences. For fall it launched an immersive
chocolate experience with local artist Janice Wong
and also brought design talent from Malone Souli-
ers, Magnanni, John Lobb, Butler & Wilson and
Gabriela Hearst to meet consumers in Hong Kong,
Singapore and Beijing.
Outside of local operators, every high-end
label is factoring the downtown into its year-end
forecast. At Sergio Rossi — which has been under-
going a signifi cant overhaul under CEO Riccardo
Sciutto — momentum is building across much
of the world. But Hong Kong is a critical piece to
the equation. “We’ll grow this year. How much
depends on what happens there,” he said.
AS DESIGNERS MOVE BEYOND THE SNEAKER, RETAILERS AND CONSUMERS STILL LOVE KICKS“I don’t want to forget my past. I am a sneaker de-
signer, but I’m also about elegance,” said Giuseppe
Zanotti at his Milan Fashion Week presentation.
The veteran designer and most other luxury
brands — both on and off the runway — showed
fewer sneakers for spring ’20, opting for more
feminine, comfort-driven looks. Infl uencers and
The year Stella McCartney started using organic cotton2008 editors also veered in a diff erent direction, choos-
ing fl at sandals (early in the month) and then
transitioning to more boots as the fall weather
arrived in Paris.
It seemed like the high-end sneaker revolution
might be fading. But make no mistake, no one is
backing away from a category that continues to
fuel retail during a challenging time. “Sneakers
are by no means slowing down, but it is defi nitely
refreshing to see a slight shift back toward the
leather sole business,” said Julia Macrae, buyer at
Dubai-based Level Shoes. “They off er the customer
the comfort that they are accustomed to with a
sneaker but in a more elegant and elevated way.
We have seen brands shift their attention with the
introduction of lower heels and fl ats, which mimic
the basic principle of a sneaker.”
Pierre Hardy said that while there might not
be as much heat around kicks, it’s due to the fact
that “fashion is always in motion. You’re always
projecting to the next thing.”
The designer, who has long off ered
sneakers in his collection, said the
category is a way of life now. “You
buy sneakers like you buy a T-shirt.
This season, I think there’s more
femininity, lightness, joy. We’re not
in a moment of ‘It’s this or nothing
else.’ Nothing is forbidden,” the
designer said.
While sneakers are less prevalent
because they’re not a new story,
they’re now a staple in wardrobes,
said Erica Russo, Bloomingdale’s VP
and fashion director of accessories
and beauty. “Even though the fashion
conversation is moving toward sport
sandals with footbeds and athletic
infl uences, sneakers aren’t going any-
where anytime soon.”
Sandra Choi, the longtime creative
director at Jimmy Choo, said designers
are adapting to consumers’ evolving life-
styles — and sneakers are just one part of
the equation. “The world is changing, and
we’re changing with it. A trainer doesn’t
have to make you run or walk faster. You
want to look great, but it’s not about perfor-
mance. It’s also about alternative heels, about
diff erent combinations, volumes, proportion.
Do you really want to struggle?”
The Michael Kors-owned brand, which has
seen its sneaker business grow rapidly, is team-
ing up with South Korean stylist Yun-kee Jeong
on a collaboration, a special iteration of its
“Diamond” sneaker.
INSTAGRAM IS FUELING A NEW CLASS OF EMERGING TALENT When Eva Chen stepped out in two diff erent
pairs of Paris Texas snake-embossed boots on
consecutive days last week, the Paris Fashion
Week street style photographers were right there,
snapping away. And the Instagram queen shared
four diff erent posts featuring the brand, racking
up tens of thousands of likes on each of them.
It was the kind of buzz any young label covets,
and Chen is one infl uencer who
actually moves product. (After
discovering Paris Texas on Insta-
gram — naturally — she was one
of its earliest supporters follow-
ing its 2015 launch.)
Paris Texas is just one of
several new labels that’s rapidly
growing, thanks in large part to
a social-obsessed young female
consumer who buys based off
what they’re seeing on Instagram.
Wandler and By Far, two other
emerging brands, are also resonat-
ing strongly with both shoppers
and retailers.
“They have all cleverly used
social media to interact with
customers and generate brand
awareness, along with excellent
product placement,” said Macrae.
“They are ensuring that their
‘it’ shoes (By Far’s Tanya sandals,
Wandler’s Isa pumps and Paris Texas’ knee-high
boots) are seen on all the right people in all the
right places.”
“They speak to the modern Instagram girl
and their audience, which guarantees success,”
added Hollie Harding, non-apparel buying man-
ager at Browns.
Just as importantly, these brands have been
smart about developing a signature that’s commer-
cial, wearable and accessible. “The latest contem-
porary brands, such as By Far and Wandler, have
found the magic recipe for well-made, fashion-fo-
cused shoes available for an accessible price,” said
Elizabeth von der Goltz, global buying director at
Net-a-Porter. “These are all off ered in both state-
ment styles and classic styles, which helps them
translate to a wide customer base.”
“I DON’T WANT TO FORGET MY PAST. I’M A SNEAKER DESIGNER, BUT I'M ALSO ABOUT ELEGANCE.”—GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI
By Far’s spring ’20 collection is
inspired by the’90s
Pierre Hardy spring ’20 sneaker
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Eva Chenin Paris Texasboots at PFW
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Food For � oughtNew York’s Beatrice Inn chef and owner Angie Mar talks fashion in the kitchen. BY NIKARA JOHNS
“I just want to eat beef and wear heels,” famed chef
Angie Mar told FN. She’s not being dramatic. Scroll
through her Instagram and you’ll see just as much red
from the bottom of her Christian Louboutin heels as
you would from a 60-day dry-aged prime rib.
Fashion has been a major infl uence on her food
since she can remember.
“My mother always says I’m the same person that I
was when I was 7 years old. That’s when I was stealing
Food & Wine and Vogue o� of her dresser,” she said.
“One of the things that I love most about fashion is
that it’s very much like food. I can decide to be one
person one day and somebody else the next.”
For Mar, who typically cooks in Adidas sneakers,
forming a dish begins with an idea. “It’s less about the
protein and what I’m actually cooking, and more about
the idea that ends up on the plate.” (She’s been known
to watch runway shows from Galliano and YSL or take
a stroll through Bergdorf Goodman for inspiration.)
Frequent guests at the Beatrice Inn, which she
Serena Williams on stage
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Forever 21 fi les for bankruptcy
Arezzo & Co. inks Vans licensing deal
Gigi Hadid saves Chanel show from crasher
Caleres stock dips
Nike sues Skechers
“I’ve been an athlete my whole life, but I always knew I wanted to transition into business,” said Serena Williams. The tennis champ said the discipline she’s developed in her sports career helped her understand how to be successful in other ventures. Numerous endorsement opportunities have also been critical to the equation. “I’ve been with Nike for over 15 years, and I’ve been able to see the ins and outs of how to successfully run such a great consumer brands company,” she said during a recent panel at Advertising Week in New York. But there’s one thing in particular that she admires about the Swoosh: “Nike is one of those brands out there that is not going to be afraid to say how they feel. And that’s something I really admire.” Williams said she’s applied that to her own label. “We want to empower people to feel comfortable standing up for what they feel is right.” In addition to launching S By Serena and serving on the board of Verizon, Williams also owns an investment company called Serena Ventures that backs companies she believes in. She also serves on the boards of Survey Monkey and Poshmark. — Eugenia Richman
Chef Angie Mar might cook in
Adidas kicks, but she prefers high
fashion
bought in 2016, include Diane von Furstenberg and
Valentino Garavani.
However, The Bea is much more than a scene-y
spot in downtown Manhattan. It’s a city institution
that once operated as a speakeasy in the 1920s, then
a family-owned Italian restaurant, followed by a
nightclub. It was then owned by publishing magnate
Graydon Carter.
Mar tells the story of her journey in her debut cook-
book, “Butcher and Beast,” out now.
“I just wanted to create a restaurant that was
representative of New York,” she explained. “To me,
my version of the city, the one I feel in love with, is
one that’s all-encompassing and embraces all walks
of life. I wrote about that in the book. New York em-
braced my oddities and neurosis and it does that for
a lot of us. For me, everything truly fantastic starts at
the dinner table. That’s the environment we wanted
to create. I just wanted people to be able to come and
enjoy my food.”
Sorel’s boots are made to withstand any weather condition – and the shoes were put to the test at the brand’s fi rst-ever runway show, which sent models on a mile-long walk through the rain in New York City’s Meatpacking district. The Portland, Ore.-based company showcased about a dozen shoe styles available to shop for fall. Nordstrom Trunk Club provided the outfi ts, which were styled by Kate Young, whose roster of celebrity clients includes Margot Robbie, Selena Gomez and Sophie Turner. “[Kate is] based in the city, and in some ways she fi ts the exact profi le of our consumer: an unstoppable and powerful woman. We know how in demand she is – in fashion in general and in Hollywood,” Mark Nenow, president of Sorel, said of the partnership. — Ella Chochrek
Iris Apfel recently celebrated her 98th birthday
IRIS APFEL ON TODAY’S HOTTEST TRENDS: “I don’t follow trends. I think they are just made up for commercial purposes and sometimes they fi t you and sometimes they don’t. The problem is that too many people just say they have to have it. I always say the biggest fashion faux-pas is looking in the mirror and seeing somebody else.”
WEEKLY UPS AND DOWNS AND EVERYTHING IN BETWEEN
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How Javan Bunch is formulating a fresh strategy to grow the � rm’s brands around the world.BY BARBARA SCHNEIDER-LEVY
Rockport’s New Chapter
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family chains and e-tailers in the U.S. — and over
3,000 international points of sale mainly in Asia
and Europe.
“Our consumers around the world are consis-
tent in their desire for footwear that’s technology-
based and relevant in styling, while there are
unique nuances geographically,” said Bunch.
To better understand shopping patterns,
Bunch relies on Rockport’s retailers. “Our
partners on the ground at the grassroots level
tell us every day how the customer is living and
what they want,” said Bunch. “It’s our biggest
challenge, but also makes the job so much fun.
No one here lives in a vacuum, nor do we want
to. We have to have a relevant impact on a large
customer base.”
At Schuler Shoes, CEO Alan Schuler said he
is optimistic about Rockport’s new leadership,
noting positive changes such as expanded inven-
tory in sizes and widths. “They have been a great
partner and willing to work out problems and we
appreciate that part of our relationship,” he said.
Here, Bunch talks about the importance of
technology, the shift to casual dressing and ap-
pealing to younger consumers.
Consumers of all ages are putting comfort at the top of the list. Is this shift helping you attract younger shoppers?Javan Bunch: “Believe it or not, 50% of our
customers are under 50. One of our large invest-
ments is consumer research — understanding
The Rockport Group might have new owners, but
it’s staying true to its roots as an innovator in the
comfort space.
The company, which owns Rockport, Dunham,
Aravon and Cobb Hill, was acquired by Charles
Bank Capital Partners in August 2018. Now, help-
ing to move the fi rm forward is Javan Bunch, who
was named president last November following
the appointment of Gregg Ribatt as CEO.
Today, the fl agship brand’s business is divided
between independents, department stores,
A spring ’20 sandal and mule from Rockport
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who the consumer is, what they want, and how
they’re thinking. Today we have a lot of ways we
can listen to them, including by [interacting with
them personally] and through more high-tech
customer relationship management tools on our
website, which gives us rich data.”
How does Rockport balance its domestic and foreign businesses?JB: “International business is a little less than
half of our overall business, with the largest
[portion] coming through company-owned
subsidiaries in Japan, Korea and the Iberians, in
addition to a network of 30 distributors. While
our consumers around the world are consistent
in their desire for relevantly styled, technology-
based comfort footwear, there are unique nuances
geographically. [Consumers] might lean toward
dress in Korea versus the U.S., and a slight lean
toward more black shoes than colored shoes
in Japan.”
More and more brands are touting comfort. Who is Rockport’s competition today?JB: “Our research shows 70% of customers who
try on a pair of our shoes buy them. I believe
our investment in technology is critical to our
competitive positioning. We stake everything on
the repeat purchase. However, when it comes to
competitors, I look at the entire market. They’re
also [considered] collaborators, because we’re all
delivering this wonderful product.”
instead dress-casual, casual-dress, call it what
you will. It has technology [built in], and is the
next step from the dress-casuals we invented 40
or 50 years ago.”
How connected are the Rockport, Cobb Hill, Dunham and Aravon brands?JB: “Cobb Hill was established as a standalone
brand. It has a loyal customer base in terms of
independents and end-use consumers. It has a
more artisan look and its own development and
sales teams. Aravon and Dunham also have their
own brand propositions. While Aravon o� ers foot
wellness, Dunham is a 100-year-old boot business
started in Vermont. While our wholesale partners
realize they’re all part of the Rockport family, and
that a larger organization provides stability and
[gives them] confi dence, I don’t think the end
consumer knows [the connection].”
With a history in the dress-comfort category, how is Rockport addressing the growing athleisure movement?JB: “Dress has been a heritage part of our collec-
tion. Our partners have really identifi ed Rock-
port with dress. Even if it’s a smaller [business],
they’re doing it with us. However, more than
50% of our business today is non-dress, and it’s
growing every quarter. How we address it may
not be through performance athletic shoes, but
“WE HAVE TO HAVE A RELEVANT IMPACT ON A LARGE CUSTOMER BASE.”—JAVAN BUNCH
A Rockport laceup for spring ’20
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MAT E R I A L S B Y M A D E L E I N E S T R E E T S
That creates a more sustainable model, where suppliers can cut
down on manufacturing costs. For brands, the immediate access to 3-D
digital files enables a quicker workflow and ensures all internal teams
have access to identical copies.
But to overhaul the current systems and make digital the norm,
mass adoption is needed. Two platforms are tackling this issue from
opposite directions: design and data.
Swatchbook is focusing on building a platform to streamline the
design process. Originally a place for brands to scan and upload
their own materials for internal collaboration, Swatchbook said it
now onboards several suppliers a month to its shared database. Each
material is either scanned through Swatchbook’s technology or verified
in-house to ensure it meets company standards, so that all users have
access to quality visuals.
“In order to have meaningful materials that can actually be used in
3-D modeling and rendering applications, the [image] quality has to
be there,” said Thomas Teger, co-founder and chief product officer at
Swatchbook. “Anything that is public-facing from a supplier standpoint,
that brands will have access to, has to go through our process.”
And visuals are prioritized. Each material is displayed in multiple
formats: draped; on a roll; rendered onto a 3-D model of the user’s
choosing; in a short video of human hands manipulating the fabric; and
in the company’s patent-pending 1:1 format. Through the Swatchbook
Some brands like Adidas
and Rothy’s are making
shoes out of recycled
plastic. Others are
turning to wine corks
and organic cotton.
As sustainability
initiatives are
accelerating throughout
the footwear industry,
experts suggest that
there is still a lot of
waste and inefficiency
in the sourcing and
production process.
As a result, many companies are
embracing digital solutions that allow them
to explore materials without searching
through pages of swatch books. With
digitization, fewer samples need to be made
and distributed from the outset; only the
final selection of fabrics needs to be looked at
in person.
New digital breakthroughs are helping brands choose the right materials faster, reducing environmental waste.
The Power of Eco Tech
By the Numbers
By saving physical swatches to the final stage of decision making, brands
can reduce waste and save time
$0The cost to scan and upload a textile to Material Exchange
10,000Materials in the Swatchbook library right now, with more added each month
8,240Tons of clothing and footwear waste was sent to landfill in the US in 2015
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“We feel there is a much better way where you don’t need to rely on hundreds of materials being sent your way every season.” — Thomas Teger, co-founder of Swatchbook
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app, any mobile device can display materials true to scale using the
1:1 feature. Users can then apply the fabric to a sample product using
augmented reality to gauge suitability.
The app can also be used to scan QR codes, which are generated
for every material uploaded to the Swatchbook platform. These can
be shared digitally among brand teams for access to the digital file or
printed out and attached by suppliers to the select physical materials
that do get distributed.
“It’s the swatch book of the future,” said Teger. “Rather than giving
you a book with all the samples, why don’t I give you one larger sample
and you can use the QR code to pull up all the colors available?”
While the files are compatible with all major 3-D design programs,
the backend data attached to each material varies. There is no
minimum information required by Swatchbook, so suppliers choose
which details to include with each upload. Once a material is selected
by a design team, brand and supplier must verify details on textile
compatibility and availability.
Material Exchange,
another digitization
platform, aims to
eliminate the need
for this conversation
altogether by
providing important
information upfront.
“Digitization is all
about the right data,” said Andy Polk, SVP at the Footwear Distributors
and Retailers of America and a board member at Material Exchange.
“Yes, a designer can search for materials by filters (type, color, pattern,
etc.) but the key is more that the materials team can see the spec sheet
upfront and see if the material can be used in production, know if it is
in stock and see if the material is compliant before sampling.”
A collaboration between Deckers Brands and industry organizations
like FDRA, Material Exchange was created with the goal of modernizing
the supply chain. All teams involved in sourcing are equipped with the
information they need by accessing the same digital file. Each material
in the database can be used by designers for close-up visual assessment;
by development teams to understand detailed textile characteristics;
and by supply chain teams to track origin and compliance.
Each file’s data can also be integrated with a brand’s product
lifecycle management software. That removes the need for an employee
to input each specification by hand, saving time and money.
UTILIZE THE SEARCH FUNCTIONAs more materials get uploaded to the databases, brands gain more options — which also means more choices to sift through. Brands looking to engage with sustainable fabrics should be conscious of filtering out any textiles that don’t meet requirements, from the outset. But suppliers also need to ensure that their materials are tagged correctly, so that they don’t miss out on potential customers.
EMBRACE EXPERIMENTATIONNot only are digital files immediately available, they are also cheaper (or free) to work with and create no waste in comparison to physical swatches. This lowers the barrier to entry for sustainable materials and lets brands try out unfamiliar or unexpected choices with minimal risk, before committing to a physical sample.
CREATE CONSISTENCY THROUGHOUT PRODUCTIONProduction processes frequently span multiple parts of the world, creating opportunities for miscommunication and outdated file sharing. This can result in waste product as samples are manufactured incorrectly. By sharing a single digitized file with all production players, brands can ensure material consistency throughout the supply chain.
HOW DIGITIZATION CAN SPEARHEAD SUSTAINABILITY EFFORTS
“We would rather help suppliers lower
their costs so they can spend money on
developing the next great material for
brands,” said Polk. “Material Exchange is
actually giving out scanners to suppliers to
help them or just allowing them to use a
phone to take pictures.”
Both Material Exchange and Swatchbook
believe that through smarter, more-efficient
material review, suppliers will be able to
control production and respond to what
brands are asking for.
“Physical is not going to go away. To make
the final decision, you need to have it in your
hand and feel it,” said Teger. “But to get to
those final options, we feel there is a much
better way where you don’t need to rely on
hundreds of materials being sent your way
every season.”
The Swatchbook mobile app lets users
view materials in all the same formats as
on a desktop
The materials space is rapidly innovating to keep up with demands for better performance, more-efficient production and, crucially, minimal environmental impact. For brands and suppliers alike, digitized materials and virtual databases can be the springboard needed to help foster sustainably minded collaborations. Here’s how companies can take advantage:
The Material Exchange platform ensures high-resolution scans of every textile
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S T Y L EF N
TOPSHOES OF
10PARIS FASHION WEEK For spring ’20, Belgian designer
Dries Van Noten teamed up with legendary couturier Christian Lacroix for a collaborative collection that proved design heavyweights can work in perfect harmony. Van Noten’s modern lines and gravitas mixed with the ’80s icon’s flourishes and extravagance. This pair of satin platform boots in hot pink — Lacroix’s signature hue — captures the mingling of two of fashion’s most prolific minds. The platforms kick off FN’s top picks of the week.
By Shannon Adducci
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BROTHER VELLIESCreative director Aurora
James held her first Paris presentation at the Peninsula
Hotel, where a gigantic circular crystal chandelier matched this
pair of crystal-fringed embel-lished sandals that wrapped up
the leg asymmetrically.
GIAMBATTISTA VALLI Leave it to Valli to make a flatform look ladylike and
glamorous. Done in satin with elaborate crystal detailing on the straps and toes, this sandal could
become a new kind of evening shoe.
MIU MIU There will be plenty of wooden
platforms and clogs come spring, but Miuccia Prada’s sky-high sandal with button embellishments stood out.
BALENCIAGA Super sharp, angular lines were all over the brand’s collection, from razor-like shoulders to pointy witch
stilettos, plus these patent leather boots with toes so square they resembled duck fins.
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P A R I S F A S H I O N W E E K » T O P 1 0 S H O E SS T Y L E
S T Y L EF NVALENTINO For spring, creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli revived the hit Rock Stud in a big way with wrap sandals. But this pair
of flats lined with rope cording and topped with a gold sculptural jewel was a more sophisticated match to the
neon-accented collection of couture-level gowns.
RICK OWENSThe designer brought back his out-of-this-world platform boots for spring, this time in a knee-high version with oversized grommet pull tabs — and done in an atypical sunny yellow hue.
SACAI After a hit Nike collab last season, Sacai took on the sport sandal solo. Its rugged lacing detail and heavy rubber soles are
sure to win over fashion’s Tev-aficionados next summer.
CHRISTIAN DIOR Spring ’20 may be full of flat
sandals, but Dior’s combat boot, with its latticework cutouts, has the
same feeling of ease.
LOEWEA low-key wardrobe isn’t
complete without a loafer, and the Spanish luxury brand did
a versatile, effortless one in black and white with a simple
wooden heel.
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Why is Paris Fashion Week so important to your business?CAROLINE DAUR: “PFW brings me an
open-mindedness. Being surrounded by
all the amazing creatives and talents of
the industry gives me inspiration and
ideas to see and decide on what’s next.
It is a great stepping stone to building
brand relationships and having press
exposure for future collaborations.”
What is the most important thing that you gain from the week? CD: “It’s more of a domino e� ect where
having visibility and networking could
lead to new followers, partnerships
and so forth. For me, it is mainly about
discovering the di� erent collections
through the eyes of the designers and
their teams, and by getting the oppor-
tunity to express myself by styling the
pieces.”
Does PFW help you to get more followers and engagement than the rest of the year?CD: “[It’s] the last fashion week, it is
eagerly awaited and can result in a
high interest rate. As we live in an
era where everything is instant with
social media and live-streaming, the
amount of content that is shared
across this period of time is really
dense, so it’s important to keep it
new and interesting.”
What was your favorite moment?CD: “Together with Kate Moss, Cara
Delevingne, Kaia Gerber, Carine
Roitfeld and others, I was asked
to create a bespoke white shirt
inspired by personal memories of
Karl Lagerfeld as part of Tribute to
Karl: The White Shirt Project.” —SA
C L I C K B A I T INFLUENCER MARKETING AGENCY SOCIAL STUDIES PULLS STATS ON WHAT THREE CONTENT CREATORS GAINED IN PARIS
1.1K41.7K4.4%ALEALI MAY
Additional Instagram fol-lowers on both Sept. 24 and Sept. 25
follower growth after her star-studded birthday party on Sept. 28
Instagram followers added during the week
CINDY BRUNA
CAMILA COELHO
Who’s � at Girl? For the industry’s biggest in� uencers, Paris Fashion Week is the Olympics of Instagram. Caroline Daur, one of street style’s most photographed stars, tells FN what #PFW means to her.
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4 V I R A L M O M E N T S F R O M # P F WGIGI HADID’S TURN AS A CHANEL BOUNCER WINS THE TOP PRIZE, BUT HERE ARE FOUR OTHER SCENARIOS THAT CLICKED.
1 MARGIELA’S
MODEL STRUT When Leon Dame headed down the Maison Margiela runway in a leather sailor outfi t, high heeled boots and his own unique gait, everyone stopped to look.
2 FASHION GOES
GREEN After chronicling New York and Milan, the semi-anonymous Instagram meme account @FashionWeekFrog hit fashion’s critical mass in Paris.
3 CARDI B, INCOGNITO
With the Ei� el Tower as her backdrop, the rapper made her Paris Fashion Week entrée in a patterned Richard Quinn look that covered her from head to toe — literally.
4 HAIM GETS
GROOVYClad in matching mod looks, sisters and bandmates Este, Alana and Danielle Haim take to the streets for a Valentino-themed boogie inspired by Austin Powers.
� e Real Chanel Show
Happens Outside � e
Grand PalaisWith elaborate sets, star-studded front
rows and the promise of fantastical fashion, Chanel’s runway shows are one of the most anticipated of each season
— and attendees always dress like Coco is watching. Seeing how the French
fashion house’s fans pull together current and archival pieces in unique ways is an added thrill, and the arrivals area
outside the show has become its own runway. � is season, they weren’t letting
a little rain get in the way.
25
� e Real Chanel Show
Happens Outside � e
Grand PalaisWith elaborate sets, star-studded front
rows and the promise of fantastical fashion, Chanel’s runway shows are one of the most anticipated of each season
— and attendees always dress like Coco is watching. Seeing how the French
fashion house’s fans pull together current and archival pieces in unique ways is an added thrill, and the arrivals area
outside the show has become its own runway. � is season, they weren’t letting
— and attendees always dress like Coco is watching. Seeing how the French
fashion house’s fans pull together current and archival pieces in unique ways is an added thrill, and the arrivals area
outside the show has become its own runway. � is season, they weren’t letting
a little rain get in the way.
4 V I R A L M O M E N T S F R O M # P F WGIGI HADID’S TURN AS A CHANEL BOUNCER WINS THE TOP PRIZE, BUT HERE ARE FOUR OTHER SCENARIOS THAT CLICKED.
1 � e Real � e Real
F F A N Y S H O E S O N S A L E
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FOR A QUARTER CENTURY, QVC HAS GIVEN VIEWERS A POWERFUL REASON TO TUNE IN AND PUT THEIR WALLETS TO WORK FOR A CURE. BY BA R BA R A SC H N E I D E R - L E V Y
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F F A N Y S H O E S O N S A L E
QVC has looked at a pair of pumps and seen
more than fashion possibilities. Instead, the
omnichannel retailer envisioned a way to change
the lives of women impacted by breast cancer.
In 1994, QVC signed on as a partner in a
charity fundraiser created the prior year by
members of the Fashion Footwear Association
of New York. The event, which initially launched
under a tent in Central Park, sold donated,
unused shoes to collect funds to support medical
research into a cure for breast cancer.
But with the help of QVC and its vast media
network, the charity (now called QVC Presents
“FFANY Shoes on Sale”) has expanded far be-
yond New York City, reaching consumers across
the globe and raising roughly $57 million for
the cause.
In recognition of QVC’s long commitment, the
company has been named the 2019 recipient of
the Jodi & Jerome Fisher Humanitarian Award.
Mike George, president and CEO of QVC parent
company Qurate Retail Group, will accept the
honor at the Shoes on Sale gala on Oct. 10, at the
Ziegfeld Ballroom in New York.
The executive, who has personally been
involved in the charity event for 14 years, sat
down with FN last month at the company’s
West Chester, Pa., headquarters to talk about
this important mission.
“There’s a lot of pride that we’ve been do-
ing this for 25 years,” said George, noting that
thousands of employees have contributed in
that time, by answering customer calls, packing
boxes and working behind and in front of
the camera.
“For me, it’s so powerful every year to con-
nect with the researchers, doctors and scientists
involved in the work and to connect with those
in the industry who’ve supported it all these
years,” he added. “Many QVC team members
have been a� ected by breast cancer, [so it’s
good] to hear those stories and to be reminded
that this is important and makes a di� erence.”
This year, QVC will once again host its live,
three-hour TV broadcast, where it will sell
discounted shoes donated by the footwear com-
munity. The show will take place on the same
night as the Shoes on Sale gala and will feature
interviews and video from the red carpet in New
York. Hosts will include Jane Treacy, Carolyn
Gracie and Nancy Hornback.
But George noted that QVC isn’t reserving its
support for just one night.
The retailer kicked o� the e� ort in mid-
September with its Shoe of the Day promotion
and plans to continue to tout the cause until
December through its sister TV networks, digital
platforms and social media.
Additionally, the company has also tapped its
Q Crew of customer ambassadors and other on-
line infl uencers to share their experiences with
followers on social
media.
Among QVC’s
most powerful tools
in raising both funds
and awareness for
breast cancer has
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“I TOLD MY STORY LIVE ON THE AIR AND THE RESPONSE WAS TREMENDOUS.” — CAROLYN GRACIE
Inside the control room responsible for QVC’s numerous broadcast programs
28
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M I K E O N …QURATE RETAIL GROUP’S PRESIDENT AND CEO GETS PERSONAL ABOUT BREAST CANCER AND CONTINUING THE FIGHT.
His close connection to the cause: “This year is especially meaningful for me since my mom was diagnosed. At 87, you expect the worst, but she’s doing fi ne. That’s one more example of how many people are touched by this disease. For many, there’s good news, and my mom’s in that category. For others, it’s more challenging. This is something you feel really matters, and you’re proud to be a part of it.”
His early commitment: “One of the fi rst discussions I had with my predecessor, Doug Briggs, was continuing the Shoes on Sale partnership. We had a discussion about the legacy of QVC’s involvement with FFANY and Doug asked about my interest. To me, it was a no-brainer. I feel privileged for the last 14 years to be able to carry this on and support the work Doug started.”
Qurate’s philanthropy: “We talk about the pillars of women’s empowerment, health and wellness, and entrepreneurship. These are all causes our customers care about and we can support. We’ve been such a benefi ciary of amazing women entrepreneurs, leaders, and our customers, to be able to support those causes through our philanthropic e� orts matters a great deal to us.”
Keeping the mission going: “We have an amazing team here that’s always challenging us to think about new ways to connect with consumers and use the power of our platforms. And we need to continue to have an industry that’s passionate about it, which I believe we have with our footwear vendor partners.” — Jennie Bell
been the personal stories shared by its hosts.
Treacy has been hosting the charity broadcast
for over 23 years and told FN, “It is hard to put
into words how much Shoes on Sale means to
me. My sister was diagnosed with breast cancer
17 years ago and is a true survivor. Keeping my
sister in my heart, along with everyone who has
been a� ected by breast cancer, is how I present
each shoe.”
For Gracie and Hornback, the cause is deeply
personal: Both are breast cancer survivors and
have openly shared their tales with audiences on
the air.
“Four years ago, I was diagnosed with breast
cancer and underwent a double mastectomy —
proactively,” said Gracie, whose mother is also
a survivor. “The biggest impact of my diagnosis
and treatment has not been what happened to
me, but rather, the e� ect it has had on my QVC
viewing family. I was very frank with them about
everything that was happening to me every step
of the way.”
Gracie recalls appearing on the Shoes on Sale
live broadcast after returning from surgery and
recovery. “I told my story live on the air and the
response was tremendous,” she said. “It
reached so many people and impacted
them in such a positive way.”
According to Gracie, she has suc-
ceeded in inspiring some viewers to get
check-ups. “Many people who’d been
avoiding getting a mammogram — be-
cause of worry, fear or procrastination
— decided to make an appointment
due in part to my experience,” she said.
For Hornback, her breast cancer
diagnosis came three days before she
was set to join the QVC team.
“I said to my new boss, what do you want to
do?” she recalled. He quickly responded that of
course she should still come on board. “They
just embraced me.”
Since then, Hornback has been committed to
encouraging QVC viewers to join the Shoes on
Sale cause and support those impacted by the
disease. “I’m so grateful for this platform and
humbled by it,” she said. “I don’t feel my story is
really a big deal. But it’s that one-on-one interac-
tion where I can identify with what they are
going through and we are here for each other.”
As a host presenter for Shoes on Sale, Horn-
back admitted she often goes against QVC policy
by encouraging shoppers to keep their purchase
even if the shoes are not a perfect fi t.
“I’ve said, please keep it, keep the money in
the co� ers to fi ght breast cancer. Instead, give
the shoes to a friend, charity, somebody will
love them.”
Treacy added that the special broadcast is an
annual highlight. “Our customers look forward
to this every year, and I do as well,” she said.
“There’s something about looking down at a
great pair of shoes, knowing they have made a
di� erence. That is just the coolest thing ever.”
For the QVC and Qurate teams, Shoes on
Sale also serves as inspiration for a range of
other charitable e� orts. Each year, the company
teams up with the Cosmetic Executive Women
Foundation to present “Beauty With Benefi ts,”
where 80% of the purchase price benefi ts Cancer
and Careers. Qurate also lends its support to St.
Jude Children’s
Research Hospital
and local commu-
nity causes.
“[Our philan-
thropy] goes to
the center of what
we do, which is,
we see our job as inspiring women every day
with wonderful stories, products that can make
a di� erence in her life,” said George. “Whenever
we fi nd that intersection of being able to touch
our customer community, our team member
community, and use the power of our airwaves
and storytelling to make a di� erence, and do it
in partnership with our industry and footwear
vendors, that’s everything.”
Jane Treacy has been hosting QVC’s special broadcast for over 20 years
“IT’S THAT ONE-ON-ONE INTERACTION WHERE I CAN IDENTIFY WITH WHAT THEY ARE GOING THROUGH.”— NANCY HORNBACK
Mike George
29
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FFANY IS SHIFTING GEARS FOR ITS ANNUAL BREAST CANCER GALA TO MAKE AN EVEN BIGGER IMPACT. BY N I K A R A J O H N S
Over the past quarter century, the Fashion
Footwear Association of New York and the QVC
network have worked hand in hand to help fi nd a
cure for breast cancer by raising money for fi rst-
step research. Now, as the QVC Presents “FFANY
Shoes on Sale” fundraiser heads into its 26th year,
the organizers are placing a renewed focus on stra-
tegic giving rather than celebrity star power.
John Heron, who took the helm of FFANY in
January, told FN, “I’m trying to make the event
more about the work that we do and the money
that we are raising. I wanted to shift the tone. The
focus is on the charity and the more than $57 mil-
lion raised over the last 25 years. We are keeping
it more real. We got lost in what the purpose was
and what we were all in the room for.”
At this year’s gala, on Oct. 10 at the Ziegfeld
Theatre in New York, emphasis will be placed on
where the money is going, how far the research
has come and the impact it has had on patients.
Some of the benefi ciaries for 2019 include Penn
Medicine Abramson Cancer Center, Cedars-Sinai
Samuel Oschin Comprehensive Cancer Institute,
Dana-Farber Cancer Institute, John Wayne Cancer
Institute at Providence Saint John’s Health Center
and, for the fi rst time, the Cancer Vaccine Institute
at the University of Washington.
Leading the charge on this front is former
FFANY president Ron Fromm, who is now chair
of the nonprofi t’s philanthropic arm, the Fashion
Footwear Charitable Foundation of New York.
He said, “We give money to the scientifi c minds
with a strong belief that they are on to something
special.” Fromm added that because of FFANY’s
donations from the beginning, doctors and re-
searchers have received more than $300 million in
additional government and private grants, based
on the work funded by FFANY.
An area that has specifi cally seen progress in
helping to cure breast cancer is vaccines, accord-
ing to Fromm. That treatment approach is a major
focus for Shoes on Sale this year, which is why the
University of Washington became a benefi ciary.
Mary L. ‘Nora’ Disis, director of the university’s
Cancer Vaccine Institute, explained, “We are the
largest academic group dedicated to developing
vaccines for cancer prevention, as well as cancer
recurrence. Our goal has always been to develop
vaccines for women who are at high risk of
developing breast cancer so that they may never
develop it. These fl exible funds will support pilot
research so that we can move quickly when we
have a new promising project.”
While this year’s Shoes on Sale will focus on the
medical work and personal stories of survivors,
Heron is also determined to maximize the effi -
ciency of the dollars spent, which is why attendees
at the gala will see some changes. For instance, in
lieu of a designer shoe salon, there will be a virtual
version powered by Zappos to help drive sales and
reduce costs.
Upon arrival at the Ziegfeld Theatre, guests
will be able to select from an assortment of over
60 designer styles on display throughout the
venue, which can be purchased for half off using
a unique code from Zappos.com.
“All sales will be fulfi lled and shipped by
Zappos, and net proceeds of purchases will be
directed to the charitable eff orts,” said Jeff Es-
persen, VP of merchandising at the e-tailer.
He
explained
that evolving
the selling
strategy was
top of mind for
FFANY. “The
“THE HOPE IS THAT THE MONEY WE RAISE FOR RESEARCH WILL ACCELERATE THE ADVANCEMENT OF A CURE.” — MARC FISHER
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problem with the traditional model was that it re-
quired a tremendous amount of staffing, space and
logistical resources that actually cost the charity
tens of thousands of dollars to execute each year,”
said Espersen. “This solution is a great opportunity
[for Zappos] to play a bigger role
in this event and make the evening
more efficient by adding our digital
and logistical expertise to the effort.”
Other brands participating in the
cause are the Pink Benefactors, who
contributed at least $500,000 worth
of merchandise to the fundraiser.
They include Caleres, Marc Fisher
Footwear and Designer Brands Inc.
(whose CEO, Roger Rawlins, will also
attend the gala to accept the Com-
pany of the Year Award from FFANY,
see page 28 for more).
The footwear donated by the Pink
Benefactors, along with 40 other
brands, will be featured not only on
Zappos but also QVC.com, as well
as on QVC’s live, three-hour Shoes
on Sale broadcast,
which will also
take place on Oct.
10. Heron noted
that the quality of
the assortment do-
nated this year has
been impressive.
Marc Fisher, founder and CEO of his epony-
mous shoe company, has been a longtime Shoes
on Sale contributor. He told FN, “[We] are
incredibly proud of the amount of money that
has been raised ever since the inception of this
event, which was started by the Fisher family in
Central Park in 1993. Every effort counts. The
mission is to find a cure. At Marc Fisher Foot-
wear, we have committed several of our brands
to the cause because we know this horrible
disease touches so many lives, including many
of our customers. The hope is that the money we
raise for research will accelerate the advance-
ment of a cure.”
And it’s because of QVC that the gala has been
so successful, according to Heron. “Without QVC,
we wouldn’t be able to raise this money,” he said.
“They are our link to consumers, and without that
link, we wouldn’t be able to turn the donations of
shoes into money for charity.”
The retail network joined the cause in 1994,
and to recognize its 25-year commitment, QVC
will be honored by FFANY with the Jodi & Jerome
Fisher Humanitarian Award during the show.
In addition to QVC and Designer Brands Inc.,
FFANY is also set to recognize Rebecca Minkoff at
the gala with the Designer of the Year award (see
page 40), while Jamie Salter, founder, chairman
and CEO of Authentic Brands Group, will be hon-
ored with the Influential Figure in Fashion award
(see page 36 for more).
“This started as a genuine concern from the
footwear industry on how to solve a problem that’s
near and dear to every one: curing breast cancer,”
added Heron. “There’s so much uncertainty in the
world right now and it is important to take the
focus back and say what are we here for.”
“WE GIVE MONEY TO SCIENTIFIC MINDS WITH A STRONG BELIEF THAT THEY ARE ON TO SOMETHING SPECIAL.” — RON FROMM
4301 W. Markham #623 | Little Rock, AR 72205-7199
Cancer.UAMS.edu
TOGETHER, WE CREATE HOPEA long-standing partnership with QVC Presents FFANY Shoes on Sale, allows the
UAMS Winthrop P. Rockefeller Cancer Institute to touch thousands of lives through breast cancer research and education.
We are proud to be part of the 26th anniversary Shoes on Sale event and thank all who support this worthy endeavor.
With your help, we are one step closer to a world without breast cancer.
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F F A N Y S H O E S O N S A L E
32
CHINESE LAUNDRYAvenue platform sandal in tweed
EASY SPIRITlimited-edition Move for Pink sneaker
HERE AND ON THE FOLLOWING PAGES ARE SOME
OF THE ST YLES ON OFFER FROM QVC AND ZAPPOS
TO BENEFIT BREAST CANCER RESEARCH.
PH
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WORK BOOTS
FOR ADVERTISING INFORMATION, PLEASE CONTACT DEBORAH BARON, ACCOUNT DIRECTOR AT 212 256 8118 OR [email protected]
THE P OWER OF CONTENT
A look at the rugged styles
ISSUE October 28 / CLOSE October 16BONUS DISTRIBUTION FDRA SUMMIT
destined to rock this season
FN_HAD_WORKBOOT.indd 2 10/2/19 12:50 PMUntitled-10 1 10/2/19 3:29 PM
F F A N Y S H O E S O N S A L E
HOW OTHER FOOTWEAR COMPANIES ARE AIDING THE BREAST CANCER FIGHT THROUGH SPECIAL PRODUCT LAUNCHES AND DONATIONS. BY F N STA F F
O N T H E M O V EAs part of its ‘Move For Pink’ initiative, Easy Spirit has partnered with FFANY Shoes4aCure on a limited-edition sneaker inspired by the label’s best-selling Romy style. The new shoe (seen on page 32) features a pink outsole and pink lacing with the words ‘Move for Pink’ and is available on Easyspirit.com this month for $69. A portion of the proceeds from every sale will go toward a special fund created by FFANY Shoes on Sale, to benefi t research by Dr. Lisa Newman, chief of the division of breast surgery at Weill Cornell Medicine/New York Presbyterian Hospital.
G I V I N G B A C KDesigner Dee Ocleppo and her husband,
Tommy Hilfi ger, have been longtime
supporters of the Breast Cancer Research
Foundation, but this year, her footwear
and accessories label is taking up the
cause as well. Throughout October,
10% of proceeds for the brand will
be donated to the organization.
“Our new initiative with the BCRF
is incredibly important to me.
Our a� liation allows us to sup-
port research that will save lives,”
Ocleppo told FN last week. “It is so
important to me to give back. We
all take so much for granted in our
lives every day. I try to keep that in
the forefront of my mind each and
every day.” She went on to add, “It
is a duty for everyone, regardless of
one’s profession, economic or social
status to try to help make this world
a better place. Whether that is by
donating money to a cause or a simple
gesture of kindness, it all moves the
dynamic forward to a more positive
existence for us all.”
Dee Ocleppo at a 2018 BCRF fundraiser
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1 What are the skate industry’s biggest opportunities right now?“The ’90s trend. It’s where skate-boarding exploded in terms of cre-ativity, exposure and people wearing the product in the streets. I also think the Olympics two years from now will bring a lot of exposure and talk around skate. And high fashion right now is very connected with skateboarding; the most important trends come from us. Virgil Abloh with Louis Vuitton, for example — there’s a lot of skate influence in the shoes. I see some designs and say, ‘We did these in the ’90s.’ It’s clear for somebody who designed shoes at that time. And the same with other high-fashion brands, as well, from Hermès to Chanel.”
2How are you capitalizing on the ’90s fashion revival?“People are knocking on our door right now, and retailers are seeing the ’90s trend and think there’s going to be a cup sole trend. Etnies is a very strong brand in that area. And there’s a movement to recon-nect with brands you lost touch with. You see [it with] brands from back in the day, like Fila — people recognize them and buy them again, or new consumers think it’s cool and new, and get into it.”
3Fall ’18 included the Etnies Icons collec-tion. How did you develop that series?“It came from retailers asking us to bring back shoes from the ’90s in the U.S. and the U.K. For example, John Lore from Journeys has been
asking for a while to bring back the Czar. So we looked in our archive and identified the shoes that were the most appropriate, like the Senix, which is one of the first I designed. [The collection] also came from people on our team and consum-ers. We listen to our customers on Instagram and social media, and now we’re bringing back those styles [they requested]. What’s unique is, we tried to replicate exactly the way the shoes were made — same outsole, upper, flex, cushioning sys-tem. I was surprised because I went skating in the first sample, and even though skateboarding has evolved since the ’90s, they still felt like extremely good skate shoes — still extremely grippy, with good cushion-ing and a good board feel.”
4Who are Etnies’ biggest competitors?“Vans, because we’re in the same space. And also DC — they’re bring-ing back some of the ’90s. But for the type of look we are doing — a wider outsole with more rubber so it’s comfy, a taller sidewall and some rubber on the toe — not many brands born in the ’90s have that. It’s Etnies, DC, éS.”
5Are there plans to revamp your other skate brands?“Definitely éS, because we have a lot of momentum in the era — it explod-ed in the ’90s. It has that athletic look that’s trending right now, so there’s a lot of interest around éS. As far as Emerica, it’s a pure skateboarding brand, so it’s really strong at core skate retail accounts, so we don’t have plans to expand the distribution right now.”
05/ Five Questions
PIERRE-ANDRE SENIZERGUESSole Technology’s CEO talks trends and revamping its biggest brands.
By Peter Verry
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For breaking news, the hottest shoe sightings and must-have trends
Join more than 95K followers @footwearnews
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Research is the reasonI’m looking for answersDR. PRISCILLA BRASTIANOS,
B C R F R E S E A R C H E R
See more reasons for research and share yours at BCRF.org
I lost my mother to metastatic disease. Her memory inspired me to find better treatments for breast cancer patients. Thanks to BCRF, I can.
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HOW OTHER FOOTWEAR COMPANIES ARE AIDING THE BREAST CANCER FIGHT THROUGH SPECIAL PRODUCT LAUNCHES AND DONATIONS. BY F N STA F F
R E A C T S T R O N G L YSneaker Room and Nike have collaborated several times on breast cancer awareness-themed shoes that yield charitable contributions. This year, the New Jersey boutique reworked the brand’s React Element 87 for the cause and created three looks, which are available at its storefront and via Snkrroom.com. All of the sneakers feature the retailer’s “SR Cares” and “Changing the world one sole at a time” slogans, and are individually numbered. The store produced 525 pairs of the pink style, which will retail for $250; there are 126 pairs of the white and pink silhouette, retailing for $500; and 63 pairs of the black and pink style, priced at $1,000. According to Sneaker Room, all proceeds will be donated to its local hospital.
S T E P P I N G U PAquatalia is aiding in the search for a cure with a special footwear collection benefi tting the National Breast Cancer Foundation Inc. The limited-edition capsule includes fi ve styles — a bootie, loafer, pointy-toe fl at and two pumps — outfi tted in a dusty rose suede material that will pair well with any fall wardrobe. The shoes retail for $195 and $495 and are available for purchase on the brand’s website and in its New York fl agship store on Madison Avenue. During the month of October, 10% of proceeds from the collection will go to NBCF.
F E E L T H E L O V EFor the second consecutive year, Saucony has teamed up with the Susan Love Foundation on two limited-edition sneakers. Dubbed the “With Love” collection, the lineup includes pink-tinged takes on the Kinvara 10 and Jazz Original. The With Love Kinvara 10 is available in men’s sizes and retails for $120, while the With Love Jazz Original is available for women and retails for $70. Both styles are up for grabs on Saucony.com and will ship on Oct. 9. Throughout the month, 20% of proceeds from sales are to be donated to the foundation.
J U S T C A U S EAs part of its ongoing Project Zero initiative focused on eliminating breast cancer, Mizuno has once again released a special-edition version of its Waveknit R2 running sneakers to benefi t the Breast Cancer Research Foundation. Shoppers on the Mizuno website can get 30% o£ the sneakers with a discount code throughout the month of October. Also during that time, Mizuno has pledged to donate $10 from each sale of the sneaker to the BCRF.
Aquatalia boot in a dusty rose color inspired by the breast cancer ribbon
Mizuno’s BCRF Waveknit R2 sneaker
Saucony’s With Love Kinvara 10 for men
A limited-edition Nike React Element
style by Sneaker Room
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…to advancebreastcancer
research.
Purchaseshoes…
THE BREAST ONCOLOGY PROGRAM AT THE UNIVERSITY OF MICHIGAN ROGEL CANCER CENTER expresses enormous appreciation to the Fashion Footwear Association of New York for the long-standing support of our research efforts over the last 26 years.
We are leading the nation in pioneering personalized oncology across the disease spectrum, from prevention to treatment and survivorship, with an emphasis on quality of life. A new future for breast cancer is within reach.
rogelcancercenter.org/giving
THANK YOUOn behalf of patients, families, faculty, and staff
at the Susan F. Smith Center for Women’s Cancers at Dana-Farber Cancer Institute,
to the Fashion Footwear Association of New York for your continuous support of breast cancer research.
Congratulations to FFANY Jodi & Jerome Fisher Humanitarian Award-Winner
QVC, Inc. and thank you for your 25 years of supporting FFANY Shoes on Sale.
FN SPEAD SINGLE TEMPLATE.indd 1 10/2/19 1:05 PMFN SPEAD SINGLE TEMPLATE.indd 1 10/2/19 3:27 PM
F F A N Y S H O E S O N S A L E
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In the decade since Jamie Salter founded Authen-
tic Brands Group, the 56-year-old Toronto native
has grown his brand management company from
a small player focused on icons like Elvis Presley
and Marilyn Monroe to one of the most powerful
operators in the fashion world, with a portfolio
of 50 properties and nearly $10 billion in revenue.
Salter made big waves in the footwear space
last year with the acquisitions of two storied
names: Nine West and Camuto Group.
In 2019, his buying streak has continued
with the purchase in April of Volcom skate brand
from Kering SA. ABG also entered new busi-
nesses this year, by inking a deal in the cannabis
industry and purchasing the Sports Illustratedmedia outfi t.
And the entrepreneur is far from sated. “Our
goal is to be a $30 billion company within the
next fi ve years,” Salter told FN last month. “Our
organic growth is somewhere between 5% and
10% a year. So if you do the math, we’re going to
be buying lots of companies.”
In fact, he said ABG is in the middle of seven
possible transactions, one of which is for Barneys
New York. “[The new lenders] have a backup bid
from us for the intellectual property, but we’ve
got to wait until Oct. 24 and see who comes and
who doesn’t come. Based on that, we’ll decide
how far we play,” Salter said, adding that his
company is now targeting brands worth $1 billion
or more.
The executive, who is being honored this
week with FFANY’s second Infl uential Figure in
Fashion Award, recently shared his strategy for
uniting his wide-ranging portfolio.
What is your overall vision for Authentic Brands Group?Jamie Salter: “My direction for the company is
to create the ABG Universe where all the brands
and all the partners are in the universe. So with
a subscription, you have access to every brand,
every experience and every event that ABG o� ers
before it’s o� ered to the general public. If you
want to go to Graceland, you can go to Grace-
land, if you want a Sports Illustrated subscrip-
tion, you can have it; if you want Airwalks,
everything sits together.”
� at’s quite a shift from traditional retail. How will you create something like that?JS: “If you look, that’s what Disney is doing and
what Apple and Amazon are doing. We think
that we are fi nally to scale now, and we can
o� er a subscription model as well. What does
this mean short, medium and long term? Today,
ABG is 75% lifestyle or product-based and 25%
entertainment or experiential-based. Within the
next fi ve years our goal is to be 50-50. When
you really think about it, they work together. By
converging these two worlds together, we’re giv-
ing something to our consumers that they can’t
get anywhere else. So taking an e-commerce
platform and making it completely interactive
and giving them special access.”
When could we see this go live?JS: “Our goal will be to get it launched in the
fourth quarter of next year, and it may launch in
beta before that. This is well beyond concept.”
Does this mean you are focused mainly on the digital world?JS: “Today ABG is doing about 50% of our total
turnover in e-commerce, which is OK, but I’d
argue it should be 30% or 35%. We have almost
5,000 licensed stores all over the world — shop-
in-shops, full-price and outlets stores. That is very
important for the success of our brands. Simon
Property Group and Brookfi eld are part owners
of ABG, so don’t underestimate [that business].
We want to get people going out of the house and
not just living this [universe experience] on a
computer or mobile device.”
ABG is not necessarily a household name, so how do you sell consumers on subscribing?JS: “When [your brands] have 265 million social
media followers and you work with 2,000 infl u-
encers [through our Winston network] with a
combined 150 million followers, my guess is that
I can get the message out pretty fast and pretty
easily — for the right price. Remember, [our
business partner] Shaquille O’Neal has 45 million
followers all on his own.”
How optimistic are you about its success?JS: “This is probably the most exciting thing that
I’ve worked on in my career, which has been
awhile. But this has been the plan since day 1.
People laughed at me because I registered Virtu-
almall.com 10 years
ago. It’s not going to
be called Virtual Mall
now because that’s
too hard, but that was
always the concept in
my head.”
“THIS IS PROBABLY THE MOST EXCITING THING THAT I’VE WORKED ON IN MY CAREER.” — SALTER
THE CHAIRMAN AND CEO OF AUTHENTIC BRANDS GROUP HAS A VISION TO CHANGE RETAIL AND UNITE CONSUMERS THROUGH HIS MULTIPLATFORM UNIVERSE. BY J E N N I E B E L L
FFANY INFLUENTIAL FIGURE IN FASHION
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NINE WESTfloral Pruce block-heel sandal
EIGHT FIFTEENBonfire sandal in brown with
cutout design
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WITH BOTH DSW AND CAMUTO GROUP UNDER ITS UMBRELLA, THE COMPANY IS DRIVING SALES THROUGH INNOVATION AND TECHNOLOGY, WHILE DEEPENING ITS SUPPORT OF BREAST CANCER AWARENESS. BY S H E E N A B U T L E R -YO U N G
It’s been just over six months since DSW Inc.
shook up the industry by carving out a unique
space in retail, combining its existing o� -price
chains in the U.S. and Canada with newly acquired
Camuto Group to form Designer Brands Inc.
The company’s unconventional strategy — a
traditional retailer sinking its teeth into owned-
brands and working with its competitors to
boost revenues — took some industry insiders by
surprise. But as its innovations take shape and
yield new signs of progress, Designer Brands is
working to make believers out of skeptics.
In the second quarter, announced late Au-
gust, the Columbus, Ohio-based company posted
revenue gains of 8.2% to $860.19 million, with
sales at Vincecamuto.com — which had seen its
share of struggles in the lead-up to the merger
— nearly doubling as it leveraged DBI’s healthy
balance sheet and cash fl ow. (DSW partnered
with Authentic Brands Group to acquire Camuto
in a $341 million deal last October.)
Meanwhile, a revamped DSW loyalty program
and heightened focus on in-store technology and
experiences — including a new nail bar concept
and custom insoles stations — are helping to
establish the footwear chain as a frontrunner in
traditional retail’s evolution.
“The work we’ve been doing
over the last two or three
years is starting to play out
in the way we had hoped
for,” Designer Brands CEO
Roger Rawlins told FN last
month. “As a brand, you have
to have di� erentiated products
and experiences, and the only
way we believe you can do that is
by innovating. As we deliver on that, it will
provide growth opportunities for business and
for our associates.”
In fact, as Designer Brands continues to frame
its future — amid ongoing digital disruption and
fast-changing consumer preferences — talent
development is high on its list of priorities.
“In our industry, we have to provide people
with developmental opportunities,” said Raw-
lins. “Too often, we have to go outside of the
footwear industry to tap into talent. Us being a
brand that can build and develop people — that
can help this industry.”
Ahead of forming the Designer Brands
umbrella, the company announced several key
promotions that emphasize its commitment to
nurturing its internal roster. In January, DSW
merchandising veteran Debbie Ferrée was pro-
moted to vice chair and president of DSW Inc.
A couple months later, after the rebrand, Ferrée
became Designer Brands’ president.
And Bill Jordan, who joined the company in
2006 and previously held roles as DSW’s general
counsel and chief administrative o¢ cer, landed
a promotion to president of DSW stores, placing
accountability for the entire DSW business in
the U.S. and Canada under his leadership.
Meanwhile, as Designer Brands continues
to integrate — ahead of schedule, nonetheless
— Camuto Group and its stable of brands into
the fold, the parent company also is in the early
stages of overhauling and upgrading DSW’s
private-label business.
By tapping into Camuto’s extensive sourc-
ing capabilities, the chain will debut revamped
product and marketing for its exclusive labels
Kelly & Katie, Crown Vintage and Mix No. 6 this
spring. Rawlins eventually hopes to take those
products to other retailers in the future.
“Launching these exclusive brands and bring-
ing to life the vision we had when we acquired
Camuto — and taking those capabilities Camuto
spent 20 years demonstrating and then applying
them to an organization like DSW — that creates
amazing upside for our business and di� erenti-
ated products for our customer,” Rawlins said.
What’s more, Designer Brands’ new relation-
ship with Camuto Group is also bolstering
its already-robust philanthropic ef-
forts. Although DSW has engaged in
charitable giving for several years
through its work with the Red
Cross, Be Strong, Soles4Souls and
Two Ten Footwear Foundation, it
is now forging a deeper bond with
FFANY Shoes on Sale thanks to
Camuto, which is a longtime partner
of the fundraiser.
Rawlins said that connecting to the
breast Cancer awareness cause feels natural. “If
you look at our business, over 80% of the prod-
uct we sell is targeted to a female consumer, so
attaching to charities that impact our customers
is what we’re trying to do,” he said. “Those kinds
of opportunities for a brand of this size — those
are huge rewards.”
“THE WORK WE’VE BEEN DOING OVER THE LAST TWO OR THREE YEARS IS STARTING TO PLAY OUT IN THE WAY WE HAD HOPED FOR.” — ROGER RAWLINS
38
FFANY COMPANY OF THE YEAR
The W Nail Bar debutedin DSW’s Polaris store
in Columbus, Ohio
Roger Rawlins
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TABITHA SIMMONSHermione kitten heel pump in
olive suede
SALVATORE FERRAGAMOGazania d’Orsay pumps with
crackled metallic vamp
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For Rebecca Minko� , the modern woman has
always been — and continues to be — her muse.
In fact, in the past year, the designer has
launched a weekly podcast where she chats with
powerful women and created a business network
called the Female Founder Collective.
Meanwhile, her fashion label continues to
expand and connect with new audiences. In
September, the brand debuted a size-inclusive col-
lection with Stitch Fix, and Minko� held a power-
ful presentation at New York Fashion Week that
represented all types of women in the workspace.
Since 2005, the New York-based designer has
focused on products that are both practical and
fashion-forward, to meet the needs of busy lives.
(Take, for example, her “Morning After Bag,” the
fi rst accessory Minko� launched in her 20s that
became a staple for young women.)
Today, her business involves not only crafting
accessories, footwear and apparel but also pro-
ducing a series of female-focused initiatives that
empower women beyond the fashion world.
And for those e� orts, she’ll be honored this
week with the 2019 Designer of the Year award at
the QVC Presents “FFANY Shoes on Sale” gala in
New York.
FN caught up with Minko� last month to talk
about her FFANY honor and what inspires her
work for women in every medium.
How does it feel to be recognized as the Designer of the Year at FFANY Shoes on Sale? Rebecca Minkoff : “It’s a huge honor. In a career,
you always hope for certain milestones to
happen. So to be recognized in this capacity feels
phenomenal.”
Do you have a personal connection with the breast cancer cause? RM: “Both my aunts and my grandmother had it
and survived it. I have a fi rst cousin who survived
it as well. So as a relative of survivors, I’m pas-
sionate about the topic. It’s important for women
to be as knowledgeable as possible and continue
to get checked.”
Looking back at the past year, what do you see as your biggest accomplishments?RM: “Getting this award would defi nitely be
one of them. Also, my presentation at New York
Fashion Week [in September] was a really special
show. It featured vignettes of the modern working
woman, including a nursing mom. It was special
— although, sadly; it really shouldn’t feel special
in 2020 [to show a woman nursing], but it was.
It’s also been a year since I launched my pod-
cast. It’s been great to celebrate guests like Katie
Couric, Laura Brown and other women who have
incredible platforms. And then the launching of
Female Founder Collective, which I talk about a
lot. It’s grown to over 5,000 members, and the
seal [we created to recognize female-led brands]
is now on over 2 million products. So being able
to have an impact on women and their businesses
is really special too.”
How has your passion for designing for women evolved throughout the years? RM: “I think that because I’m the same age and
sex as my consumer, going through new life mo-
ments, [naturally that] broadens the horizon of
my designs.”
You recently debuted a collaboration with Stitch Fix that is size-inclusive. Why did you decide to work on that project?RM: “This was my fi rst time o� ering sizes bigger
than 12. We wanted to do it for a while, but we
needed a partner that had the data and ability to
execute it in the way that needed to be done. So
when [Stitch Fix] came to us with the opportu-
nity, we were excited to see what the possibilities
could be.”
Looking ahead, what is your focus for 2020?RM: “We just announced that we’re launch-
ing fragrance at the end of next year, and we’re
potentially launching some other categories. But
I can’t talk about it
yet. So we’re focusing
on those initiatives
and just continuing
to be innovative in
the categories we’re
already in.”
“IT’S IMPORTANT FOR WOMEN TO BE AS KNOWLEDGEABLE AS POSSIBLE ABOUT [BREAST CANCER].” —MINKOFF
THE INSPIRING FASHION MOGUL CONTINUES TO COME UP WITH NEW WAYS TO EMPOWER WOMEN. BY M A D E L E I N E C R E N S H AW
FFANY DESIGNER OF THE YEAR
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ALL BLACKShearling Sneak loafer
NATURALIZERVaruna 2 laced boots in oatmeal
suede with lug sole
P I C K
CATWALK CRASHER Gigi Hadid confronted an
unlikely guest on the runway at the Chanel spring ’20
show in Paris last week, and the moment went viral. The
interloper, French YouTube star Marie Benoliel (also known as Marie S’Infi ltre), stormed the
catwalk in a vintage Chanel suit and platform oxford
shoes in what she described as a “satirical” prank. While
some questioned whether the stunt was planned, Chanel
emphatically declared “non.”
FO
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NE
WS
//O
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7,
20
19
//F
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EW
S.C
OM
FN IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. COPYRIGHT ©2019 FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 75, NO. 20. October 7, 2019. FN (ISSN 0162-914X) is published twice per month with one additional issue in September by Fairchild Publishing, LLC, which is a division of Penske Business Media, LLC. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 475 Fifth Ave, New York, NY 10017. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO FN, P.O. Box 6357, Harlan, IA, 51593. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to FN, P.O. Box 6357, Harlan, IA, 51593, call 866-963-7335, or e-mail customer service at [email protected]. Please include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. One-year subscription price: U.S. $72, Canadian $149, foreign $295. Single-copy cost $10. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of a new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. We reserve the right to change the number of issues contained in a subscription term and/or the way the product is delivered. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to FN, 475 5th Ave, 2nd Fl., New York, NY 10017. For permissions and editorial requests, e-mail [email protected]. Visit us online at www.footwearnews.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Publishing, LLC magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. FN IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANU-SCRIPTS, UNSOLICITE ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CON-SIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY FOOTWEAR NEWS IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS , PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.
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