innovation in personal care formulations - nexeo · pdf fileinnovation in personal care...
TRANSCRIPT
Innovation in Personal Care Formulations
November 2014
Agenda
• Solvay’s Global Trend Focus
• Market Trends and Demands
• Sensory Evaluation and Approach
• Solvay’s Capabilities and External Engagement
2
Strong Innovation portfolio with global megatrend
3
Novecare
Beauty Trends
Consumers are more interested in and knowledgeable of what they put on their bodies
5
Consumers are better educated on the ingredients used in personal care products and seek specific claims such as free from: Sulfates, Parabens, Silicones, etc.
Hair Care Trends
Due to many changes in hair style, claims like For Damaged Hair and Heavily Damaged hair are increasing, especially in some regions, making mildness and scalp care important and complementary claims, together with anti-aging.
6
Hair Care Market Needs
7
Free from…..
8
Free from…….. % of Hair Care Launches
9 Source: Mintel
Free From: Awareness and use of personal care products
10
Free of……..Market examples
11 Source: Mintel
Free of……..Sulfates to Address Color Protection
12 Source: Mintel
Skin Cleansing Trends
13
Skin Cleansing Market Demands “Cared-for Skin”
14
Gentle is Essential in Baby and Skin Care
Gentle products that do not contain harsh chemicals are very important to parents
• 38% of consumers are looking for products made with all-natural ingredients • 37% are looking for products designed for sensitive skin
New moms especially concerned with the safety of products the use on baby’s skin. Parents desire simple products that are natural and safe, but still effective
Source: Mintel 15
Mother and Baby
• Just under a quarter of parents use baby products on themselves, so this offers potential for brands typically seen as 'just for baby or child' to expand into the wider toiletries market and cater for adults as well.
• Taking the visual emphasis off baby bottoms and pitching themselves as a 'brand for life' and good for all skin types
Product targeting babies to seniors and those with sensitive skin
Source: Mintel Inspire 16
Market Launches - Sensitive Skin Claim 2011-2013
# of products with "for sensitive skin" claim over time
Global, Jan 2011 – Dec 2013
Source: Mintel 17
Top Consumer Claims – Personal Care
Global, Jan 2011 – Dec 2013
Top claims based on # of products with "for sensitive skin" as a claim by category skincare/hair products/soap & shower products
Skincare Soap & Bath Products Hair Products
Botanical/Herbal 68.1 64.1 60.5 Moisturising / Hydrating 69.4 46.7 31.9
Dermatologically Tested 45.9 40.4 41.8 Paraben Free 36.3 30.6 29.9
No Additives/Preservatives 31.1 32.2 33.3 Time/Speed 38.5 4.1 14.3
Vitamin/Mineral Fortified 27.3 15.1 21.4 Ethical - Animal 24.1 23.9 21.8
Anti-Ageing 29.5 1.6 0.4 Babies & Toddlers (0-4) 15.2 41.6 51.4
Hypoallergenic 19.7 22 25.3 Brightening / Illuminating 24.6 4.1 17.8
Ethical - Environmentally Friendly Package 19.8 20.8 17.4
Fragrance Free 22.3 9.6 15.8 Antioxidant 24.2 4.8 1.8
Organic 18.4 19.3 16.6 Long-Lasting 21.2 3.1 7.6
Reduces Fine Lines / Wrinkles 19.1 0 0 Ethical - Environmentally Friendly
Product 13.5 17.3 12.1
UV Protection 18.3 0.2 1.9
Source: Mintel 18
How is Sensory Perceived in Personal Care?
Emotional and physical gratification from entire experience during product usage
• Product appearance • Luxurious product visuals
Fragrance Performance • Delivers long-lasting olfactory benefits
Product Performance • Luxurious lather • Indulgent feeling of being pampered • Enjoyment in use
19
Sensory is a Holistic Approach
20
Appearances in Package
Olfactory Performance
Feel During & After use
Sensory and Indulgence
Enduring behavior
irrespective of financial
pressures
Valued distractions that allow consumers to escape from the everyday to
experience some of life’s small
luxuries
Sensory and
Indulgence
1/13 21
Sensory and Indulgence is a mega-trend, which examines consumers’ desire to treat themselves to small luxuries Source: Datamonitor
Indulgence
Indulgence
Indulging the Senses
1/13 22
L'Oréal Hair Expertise OleoTherapy Deep Recovery Mask
Sulfate-Free Restores radiance Described as a sensorial recovery
treatment
Palmolive Ayurituel inspired by Ayurveda Transforms the shower into a sanctuary Leaves skin feeling rebalanced and
energized whilst comforting the senses…
Thalgo Polynésia Exotic Shower Gel Cleanses without drying Delivers silky soft skin Sensual vanilla fragrance evokes
sensorial journey to the islands of Polynesia
Nude - a natural cleanser that transforms from an airy gel to a soft milk
Melts away all face and eye makeup Envelops you in a naturally luxurious,
sensorial experience
Herbal Essences Naked Moisture Cleansing Conditioner
Low lather cleansing conditioner indulges each strand with the scent of herbal mints
Pantene Pro V Damage Detox Weekly Rehab Creme
Instantly renews hair with lasting smoothness
Body & Skin Cleansing Hair Cleansing
SOLVAY’S CAPABILITIES FOR SENSORIAL EXPERIENCE
04/11/2014 23
High Throughput Formulation Screening
24
Water
Surfactant A Surfactant B
Transparency Viscosity
Project Number NOV-HPC-PD-10.1 Objective is to reduce the active level (cost) in Body wash formulations, starting from simple mixtures Evaluation of basic required properties: • Transparency and Viscosity • Best candidates scaled up in application lab formulation optimization (η, salt content, pH), stability, cleansing, sensorial assessment/foam, complete formulation prototyping
26 surfactant mixtures screened Total surfactant concentration: 10% Total Salt: from 1% to 3% pH = 5,5 (+/-10%)
Miracare® TSC 484: • Sodium C14–16 Olefin Sulfonate • Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine • Cocamide MEA • Sodium Trideceth Sulfate Miracare® TSC 273: • Sodium C14-C16 Alpha Olefin
Sulfonate • Sodium Trideceth Sulfate
25
Tools & Capabilities Foam Measure
• Simple and direct foam measurements
• High sample throughput for reproducible analysis
• Provides key measures: • Speed to lather • Foam height • Foam decay • Foam density
Zein Assay Rapid, screening procedure that can predict the potential dermal irritancy of various surfactant systems. In the test, Zein, a yellow corn protein that is similar to keratin present in the skin and hair, is denatured (solubilized) by an irritant.
Rheology
•Brookfield Measures viscosity at given shear rates •Simple, easy to use for everyday laboratory us •The AR-G2 (TA Insturments) is an advanced controlled stress and controlled rate rheometer •A broad spectrum of rheological measurements can be performed across a wide range of shear and temperature •Suitable for both raw materials and sample formulations
0.1
1
10
100
1000
10000
0.001 0.01 0.1 1 10 100 1000 10000
Visc
osity
(Po
ise)
Shear Rate (1/sec)
DV 9903 Viscosity vs Shear rate
10ºC
20ºC
30ºC
40ºC
60ºC
Newtonian
Dilatant
Delfine Vapometer
• Measurement of TEWL (transepidermal water loss)
• The MoistureMeterSC skin surface hydration values at the Stratum Corneum level
• Delfin MoistureMeterD measurement of water content of biological tissues. It measures the dielectric constant values of the skin and subcutaneous tissues non-invasively and locally in a few seconds
Surfactant Screening for Mildness pH =4.0, 1.0% Surfactant Solution
26
Solvay’s Sensory & Clinical Testing Partnerships
Sensory Panels (Sensory Spectrum) • Generate high quality product
sensory information and formulation insight
• Linking consumer and product understanding
• Benchmarking developed products vs. market products
• Product testing • Descriptive analysis • Quality • Home use panels
Clinical Testing (AMA Labs, MB Research) • Skin, hair and eye testing
• Mildness, Moisturization • Safety testing (HRIPT) • Occular irritation • Skin irritation and sensitization • Anti-acne • Hair care products (Anti-dandruff)
27
Innovation Approach
28
Support Customers and deliver
end consumer benefits
Evaluate for
perceivable benefits
Develop formulations
using our portfolio
Identify Market Needs
• Wide Array of Products • Body Wash • Foam Hand and/or Body
Wash • Hand Wash • Wipes • In-Shower Lotion
INCI: Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine, Sodium Coco-Sulfate, Propanediol, Disodium
Lauroamphodiacetate
Containing Miracare® GBC
29
HEN’s EGG TEST CHORIOALLANTOIC MEMBRANE
Attributes Leading Tear free BW
Leading Head to Toe Wash
GBC Shampoo + BW
Pre W
ash
Firmness 29.0B 29.5B 44.5A
Cohesiveness 71.6B 53.8C 77.4A
Integrity of Shape 9.8B 10.4B 38.2A
Gloss 96.1A 79.7B 96.4A
During W
ash
Laps to Lather 5.8A 6.0A 5.2B
Amount of Lather (30 Laps)
48.1a 45.7ab 45.0b
Bubble Size 5.8a 5.8a 4.9b
# Laps to Rinse 8.5 8.4 8.7
After w
ash
Dryness (Immediate) 14.6 14.4 14.9
Tautness (Immediate) 16.2 16.0 16.3
Dryness (10 Min) 7.6 8.1 7.9
Tautness (10 Min) 15.3 15.1 15.1
Blissful Baby Tear-Free Baby Body Wash & Shampoo Sensory & Irritation Profile
Formulation
30
Water, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate, PEG-80 Sorbitan Laurate, Lauramidopropyl Hydroxysultaine, Fragrance
INCI Label
Mackam® LSB-50, Mirataine® BET-C30, Rhodapon® ALSA/K, Alkamuls®PSML-80/72 LD
Solvay Ingredients
• Ultra Mild • Outstanding foam quality and stability • Creamier/Softer foam • Provides skin moisturization
Benefits
Ultra Mild Foam Wash
pH: 5.50 Viscosity: N/A Solids: ~13.5%
Specifications
31 Solvay Formulation achieved better flash foam and lower irritation potential
Foam Analysis and Irritation Potential Analysis – Ultra Mild Foam Wash
130
135
140
145
150
155
160
165
170
175
30 s 150 s 300 s
National BrandSolvay
0
0.2
0.4
0.6
0.8
1
1.2
National Brand Solvay's Formulation
32
Water, Sodium Laurimino Dipropionate, Lauramine Oxide, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Polyquaternium-7, Polyglycerol-3
INCI Label
Mackamine® LO, Mackam® CB-35, Mirataine® H2CHA, Mackernium® 007, Polyglycerol-3
Solvay Ingredients
Silky, clean skin is in! This formulation is compatible with Salicylic Acid and Benzalkonium Chloride, making it an excellent chassis for an anti-acne facial cleanser.
About the Formulation
Low pH Foaming Facial Cleanser
pH: 4.0 Viscosity: N/A Solids: ~5%
Specifications
33
Water, Lauramidopropyl Hydroxysultaine, Sodium Lauroamphoacetate, Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate, Lauric Acid, Fragrance
INCI Label
Mackam® LSB-50, Miranol® Ultra L-32, Geropon® CG 3S
Solvay Ingredients
Solvay’s latest addition to a growing line of sulfate-free body cleansers is ultra-gentle to the skin. This cleanser is wallet conscious as well, as it is concentrated and designed to meter the appropriate dosage, allowing for less wasted product.
About the Formulation
Eco-Conscious Body Wash
pH: 8.2 Viscosity (LV4, 6RPM): 23,600 CPS Total Surfactants: 26.0% Solids: 34.6%
Specifications
Foam Analysis of Concentrated BW vs. Marketed product
0
50
100
150
200
250
30 60 120 180 300
Foam
Hei
ght (
mm
)
Time (sec)
Conc. BW @ 1.0% Conc. BW @ 0.5% Marketed BW @ 1.0%
Eco-Conscious Body Wash @ 1.0% and 0.5% has higher foam height and stable foam compared to marketed body wash
34
Irritation Potential of Concentrate vs. Marketed Body wash
0
0.2
0.4
0.6
0.8
1
Conc. BW @ 1.0% Conc. BW @ 0.75% Conc. BW @ 0.5% Marketed BW @1.0%
(g) Z
ein
Dis
slov
ed
At higher active levels Eco-Conscious body wash performance at parity for irritation potential vs. marketed body wash
35
36
Water, Sodium Lauroamphoacetate, Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate, Sodium Methyl Oleyl Taurate, Polyacrylate-33, Silica, Sunflower oil, Glycol Distearate, Fragrance
INCI Label
Rheomer® 33T, Miranol® Ultra L-32, Geropon® CG 3S, Geropon® T-77, Tixosil® 68, Mirasheen® S-188
Solvay Ingredients
This versatile formulation allows for the creation of unique textures and visuals while delivering exfoliating or moisturizing benefits. Offers oil, pigment and particle suspension. Clear base before inclusion of oil.
About the Formulation
Dynamic Textures Body Wash
pH: 7.25 Viscosity: 30,000 Total Surfactants: 8.0% Solids: 11.0% Yield Stress: 1.60 Pa %T (600 nm): 97.6
Specifications
37
Water, Petrolatum, Mineral Oil, Polyacrylate-33, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Sorbitan Oleate, Polysorbate 80, DMDM Hydantoin
INCI Label
Rheomer® 33T, Alkamuls® SMO, Alkamuls® PSMO-20, Mackstat® DM, Jaguar® Optima
Solvay Ingredients
Maximize your beauty routine with this quick rinsing moisturizing in-shower lotion to be applied to skin when pores are open and ready to be replenished with nourishing oils. This formulation is easy to process.
About the Formulation
In-Shower Moisturizing Lotion
pH: 5.7 Viscosity: 40,000 Solids: 20%
Specifications
38
Water, Lauramidopropyl Hydroxysultaine, Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate, Lauric Acid, PEG-150 distearate, Fragrance
INCI Label
Mackam® LSB-50, Geropon® CG 3S
Solvay Ingredients
• Easy to process • Quick rinsing • Clear • Ability to thicken formula with
• PEG 150-distearate • Cocamide MIPA
About the Formulation
Isotropic Body Wash
pH: 6.5 Viscosity: 8,000 Solids: 12%
Specifications
39
Foam Analysis and Irritation Potential Analysis – Isotropic Body Wash
Solvay’s formulation has similar or better performance compared to benchmark products
Marketed Kid's Sensitive Skin
Marketed Kid's 3 in 1
Marketed Head-to-Toe Solvay's Prototype
0
0.2
0.4
0.6
0.8
1
(G) Z
ein
Dis
solv
ed/(G
) Zein Test/Irritation Potential
Marketed Kids Sensitive Skin
Marketed Kid's 3 in 1
Marketed Baby Head-to- Toe
Solvay’s Prototype
170
172
174
176
178
180
(MM
) Foa
m @
25
sec
Foam Volume
Thank you!
Please visit our posters for additional information Technical Support line [email protected]