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3 6 4 V O L U M E 6 · K I T C H E N M A N U A L

A ABALONE

Aabalone

Abalone and Foie Gras Shabu-Shabu with Yuba and Enoki, 84

best bets for cooking, 83acetaldehyde, Marinated Spaghetti Squash, 26acetic acid

Constructed Veal Cream, 300for lowering pH, 22

Achatz, GrantBacon Chips with Butterscotch, Apple, and

Thyme recipe, 113Bacon Powder Squares recipe, 206Eggs Benedict recipe, 236Mozzarella Balloons recipe, 249Shrimp Cocktail recipe, 80Umami Seasoning Fluid Gel recipe, 289Vanilla Olive Oil Powder recipe, 207

acidity. See pHacids. See also acetic acid; ascorbic acid; citric

acid; lactic acid; malic acid; tartaric acidconcentrations of, 23for lowering pH, 22oxalic, to preserve color and flavor of fresh

juice, 31acorn squash, cooking sous vide until tender,

best bets for, 139Activa

in coarse-ground sausages, 125, 126for frankfurters, 129GS

Edamame Sheets, King Crab, Cinnamon Dashi, 254

Flourless Gnocchi, 254for gelatin gels, 252Puffed Salmon Skin Pillows, 95Rare Flatiron Steak, 89Sous Vide Duck Ham, 109Sous Vide Rabbit Loin, 70Ultracrisp Chicken Crown, 93

for mortadella, 129RM

for blood sausage, 129Buckwheat Dough, 194in buckwheat pasta, 191Chawanmushi, 242Chilled Chicken-Noodle Soup, 311Edamame Sheets, King Crab, Cinnamon

Dashi, 254for egg gels, 252Fermented Shrimp Sheets, 134Fried Chicken Sausage, 137

Activa, RM (continued)Modernist Fried Chicken, 166Pork Tenderloin with Juniper, 69Rare Beef Sausage, 137Rare Flatiron Steak, 89Salmon Custard, 253Skate Pavé with Bread Crust, 78Sous Vide Duck Confit Pavé, 82Sous Vide Duck Ham, 109Sous Vide Rabbit Loin, 70for soy gels, 252

TIBuckwheat Dough, 194in coarse-ground sausages, 126Fermented Shrimp Sheets, 134

YGfor dairy gels, 252Modernist Burrata, 247Sour Cream Spaetzle, 252

Adrià, Albert, simulation of nature in dishes of, 208

Adrià, Ferran, 311Agar Carbonara recipe, 275Beet Meringue recipe, 335Black Olive Puree recipe, 306Black Sesame Rice Crisps recipe, 343Blood Orange Foam recipe, 317Corn Foam recipe, 318Crimini in Amber recipe, 271fast hot-spring quail egg recipe, 232Freeze-Dried Carrot Foam recipe, 340Ham Consommé with Melon Beads recipe,

211Hot Apricot Marshmallow recipe, 334Hot Butter Foam recipe, 324Hot Egg Mayonnaise recipe, 303hot potato foams made by, 324Liquid Pimento Olive recipe, 294Melon Caviar recipe, 291Microwaved Pistachio Sponge Cake recipe,

333Mussels in Mussel Juice Spheres recipe, 294Oysters with Mignonette Air recipe, 313Parmesan Nuggets recipe, 206shellfish custard of, 276simulation of nature in dishes of, 208Soy Sauce Cloud recipe, 339Squid-Ink Bean-Sprout Risotto recipe, 198Sweet Pea Clusters recipe, 284Thickened Oil recipe, 306Two-Meter Parmesan Spaghetto recipe, 262

Aduriz, Andoni LuisClay Potatoes recipe, 199Edible Soap Bar with Honey Bubbles

recipe, 314

Aduriz, Andoni Luis (continued)Foie Gras Soup with Bomba Rice and Sea

Lettuce recipe, 99Fossilized Salsify Branch recipe, 199Idiazábal Gnocchi recipe, 258Monkfish with Constructed Skin recipe, 95Quinoa and Idiazábal with Bonito Stock

Veil recipe, 281simulation of nature in dishes of, 208Sweet Pea Clusters recipe, 284Watermelon Meat recipe, 197

Aerated Chocolate, 349Aerated Coffee Ice Cream, 349Aerated Foie Gras, 348Aerated Gruyère, 348Aerated Mango Sorbet, 347Aerolatte. See whipping wand, handheldagar

Aerated Foie Gras, 348Aerated Gruyère, 348Agar Carbonara, 275Beef Shank Rillette, 87for brittle edible films, 229Chili Pearls, 265for coating gels, 269for cold gels, 260Dairy-Free Whipped Cream, 326Dungeness Crab and Apple Roulade, 281Eggless Mayonnaise, 309for fluid gels, 285Foie Gras Torchon with Beet and Hibiscus

Glaze, 272Halibut in Verbena Bubble, 273for hot fruit gels, 279for hot gels, 274Hot Orange Gel, 279Knot Foie, 264for light foams, 316Mushroom and Bacon Cappuccino, 320Olive Oil “Mayonnaise,” 309Olive Oil Noodles, 266Quinoa and Idiazábal with Bonito Stock

Veil, 281Salt Gel, 261Sea Urchin Tofu, Tokyo Negi, Sesame,

Ponzu, 266Sherry Gel Cube, 267Spiced Walnut Vinegar Gel, 262Squid-Ink Bean-Sprout Risotto, 198for tender edible gels, 229for thick foams, 322Two-Meter Parmesan Spaghetto, 262Umami Seasoning Fluid Gel, 289

Aged Rare Beef Jus, 216

INDEX to the Kitchen Manual

I N D E X 3 6 5

AAVOCADOS

air-coolingPommes Pont-Neuf, 160vacuum cooling compared with, 161

air-dryingBlackstrap Molasses Country Ham, 110Century Egg, 234Cured Beef Tenderloin “Bresaola Style,” 111Lemon Strips, 228roasting chicken in combi oven, 3Salted Halibut, 112Saucisson Sec, 134Sea Urchin Bottarga, 111

airs, 312–313best bets for, 312

albumin powderas adhesive for breading, 167for airs, bubbles, and froths, 312Beet Meringue, 335Eggplant Foam, 324Green Olive Meringue, 339Gruyère Soufflé, 340for light foams, 316in semolina pasta, 191for set foams, 330for thick foams, 322

alcohol (ethanol)best bets for adding flavor with, 24extracting flavor with, 26–27for washing citrus oil, 26

ale, infusing flavors into liquids with, 24Algin 400F, Lemon Strips, 228alkaline ramen, dough for, best bets for, 191Alléno, Yannick, Venison Loin Rossini recipe,

69almond flour, Edible Earth, 208almonds

Almond Polenta, 207Marcona Almond Butter Paste, 205Mughal Curry Sauce, 222Toasted Almond Milk, 228

alpha tocopherol, to preserve color and flavor of fresh juice, 31

amaranth risotto, best bets for, 152The American Cheese Slice, 300American Wagyu Beef Cheek, 89anchovies, seasoning with, 21Anderson, Scott, Crispy Sweetbreads recipe,

100Andrés, José

Carbonated Mojito Spheres recipe, 291Yogurt Foam and Sweet Potato Chips

recipe, 329Ankimo Torchon, 97apple cider/apple juice

Apple Cider Consommé, 43Dungeness Crab and Apple Roulade, 281hard, batter made with, best bets for, 163Quail with Apple-Vinegar Emulsion and

Water Chestnuts, 73Salted Caramel Apple Puree, 145Vacuum-Concentrated Apple and Cabbage

Juice, 47

applesacidity of, 278chips using, best bets for, 162compressing/impregnating, best bets for,

195cooking sous vide until tender, best bets for,

138Curry-Impregnated Apple, 196dehydrating, best bets for, 185freeze-drying, best bets for, 188Hot Green Apple Gel, 280Poached Apple with Pecorino Foam, 320preserving, best bets for, 182puree of

best bets for, 55best bets for cooking apples for, 144

Salted Caramel Apple Puree, 145smoked, best bets for, 183White Coleslaw, 302

apricotsacidity of, 278compressing/impregnating, best bets for,


138dehydrating, best bets for, 185dried, Apricot and Jasmine Puree, 217Hot Apricot Marshmallow, 334preserving, best bets for, 182

aquarium bubblersfor airs, bubbles, and froths, 312Edible Soap Bar with Honey Bubbles, 314Kanpachi Sashimi with Citrus Foam, 313

aquarium salt, Beet Juice-Fed Oysters, 119aquavit, infusing flavors into liquids with, 24Armagnac, infusing flavors into liquids with,

24Arnold, Dave

Beet Juice-Fed Oysters recipe, 119Centrifuged Roasted-Hazelnut Oil recipe,

41Parmesan “Polenta” recipe, 288Pectinase-Steeped Fries recipe, 160Pressure-Cooked Egg Toast recipe, 241

Aromatic Alsatian Mustard, 176arrowroot, thickening with, best bets for, 200artichokes

acidity of, 278Artichoke and Potato Chaat, 158baby

cooking sous vide with fat, best bets for, 143

frying naked, best bets for, 159Chinese, cooking sous vide with fat, best

bets for, 143mature, cooking sous vide with fat, best

bets for, 143puree of, best bets for, 55Sous Vide Artichoke, 142

Arzak, Juan MariEgg Blossom recipe, 232Strawberry Milk Shake recipe, 62

ascorbic acidBeet Meringue, 335Carbonated Mojito Spheres, 291Green Asparagus and Morels with Aspara-

gus Jus, 33Gremolata Crisp, 346for lowering pH, 22to preserve color and flavor of fresh juice, 31Spiced Walnut Vinegar Gel, 262

Asian pears, chips using, best bets for, 162asparagus

acidity of, 278Asparagus Royale, 241compressing/impregnating, best bets for,

195cooking sous vide, best bets for, 147cooking sous vide until tender, best bets for,

139green, frying naked, best bets for, 159Green Asparagus and Morels with Aspara-

gus Jus, 33puree of, best bets for, 55smoked, best bets for, 183Sous Vide Green Asparagus, 142white, frying naked, best bets for, 159

aspartame, Lemon Strips, 228autoclaving

Autoclaved Onion Soup, 150Fresh Cheese Curds, 247

autumn squash. See also specific kinds of squashcooking sous vide until tender, best bets for,

139frying naked, best bets for, 159

Avicel CG200, Pea Vine Salad, 222avocados

acidity of, 278Avocado Puree, 201


BACONBBbacon

Agar Carbonara, 275Bacon Chip, 104Bacon Chips with Butterscotch, Apple, and

Thyme, 113Bacon Dashi, 18Bacon Jam, 304Bacon Powder Squares, 206Canadian, Eggs Benedict, 236consommé using, best bets for, 42–43cooking in combi oven, 2infusing flavor into liquids from, 20Mushroom and Bacon Cappuccino, 320seasoning with, 21Shrimp and Grits, 190Siphoned Soufflé à la Lorraine, 338Spaghetti Carbonara, 192

BactofermF-LC

Fast-Cured Pepperoni, 135for fermented sausage, 132–133

F-RM 52, Saucisson Sec, 134T-SPX, for fermented sausage, 132

bagels, Everything Bagel Broth, 258Bagna Càuda Consommé, 44Baked Beans, 149Baked Potato Broth, 19Baked Potato Foam, 324baking soda

to accelerate Maillard reaction, 203Autoclaved Onion Soup, 150marinade technique using, 119

bamboo shoots, cooking sous vide until tender, best bets for, 139

bananasacidity of, 278Banana Yogurt, 41cooking sous vide until tender, best bets for,

138freeze-drying, best bets for, 188Hot Banana Gel, 280puree of, best bets for cooking bananas for,

144Bandel, Horst, Rye Bread recipe, 337Banyuls Glaze, 38barbecue sauces

East Texas Barbecue Sauce, 221House Barbecue Sauce, 220Kansas City Barbecue Sauce, 220Kentucky Barbecue Sauce, 219Memphis Barbecue Sauce, 221North Carolina (Eastern Region) Barbecue

Sauce, 221North Carolina (Lexington-Style) Barbe-

cue Sauce, 219South Carolina Barbecue Sauce, 219

Barbecued Eel with Whipped Caramel, 327barbecuing, grilling vs., 49

Barbot, Pascal, Foie Gras and Button Mush-room Tart recipe, 98

barley, pearlbest bets for, 342cooking under pressure, best bets for, 149puffed snacks made from, best bets for, 342Ragout of Grains, 156risotto using, best bets for, 152

barley malt powder, Edible Earth, 208Basic Mayonnaise, 303basil

Tomato Spheres with Basil Oil, 292Warm Potato and Pistachio Pesto Salad,

215Batali, Mario, Squid Sicilian Lifeguard-Style

recipe, 84Batter Bind S, Razor Clam “Takoyaki,” 171batter-frying, 163–166

batters forbest bets for, 163textures for, 163

The Colonel’s Fried Chicken, 165Crispy Halibut Cheek, 165Fried Pickles, 164Modernist Fried Chicken, 166Oyster Beignet, 166Spot Prawn and Lotus Root Tempura with

Smoked White Soy Sauce, 164bay leaves, infusing flavor into liquids from, 27BBQ Caramels, 231bean sprouts

Pad Thai, 193preserving, best bets for, 182Squid-Ink Bean-Sprout Risotto, 198

beans. See also specific kinds of beansacidity of, 278

beef. See also oxtailAged Rare Beef Jus, 216Beef and Oyster Tartare, 65Beef Brisket, 88in Beef Cheek Pastrami, 121Beef Shank Rillette, 87Beef Short Ribs, 90Beef Tenderloin with Jus de Roti, 212best bets for cooking, 86Braised Short Ribs, 90Brown Beef Stock, 10cold-smoking, best bets for, 120Combi Oven Rib Eye, 4cooking sous vide, best bets for, 68Crispy Beef and Shallot Salad, 108Crispy Beef Strands, 108Cured Beef Tenderloin “Bresaola Style,” 111fillet of, hot-smoking, best bets for, 120Frankfurter, 130Freeze-Dried Beef Gravy Granules, 60freeze-drying, 58in hamburgers, 123Hanger Steak Tartare, 65jaccarding, 114Kalbi Flank Steak, 114Microwaved Beef Jerky, 108

beef (continued)Oxtail Pho Broth, 16Pot-au-Feu Consommé, 45Rare Beef Sausage, 137Rare Flatiron Steak, 89Rib Eye with Cherry Mustard Marmalade

and Porcini, 70short ribs of

best bets for cooking, 86hot-smoking, best bets for, 120

Sous Vide Beef Juice, 40Sous Vide Rare Beef Jus, 40tartare, best bets for, 64tenderloin of, curing, best bets for, 103

beef cheeksAmerican Wagyu Beef Cheek, 89Beef Cheek Pastrami, 121best bets for cooking, 86pastrami, hot-smoking, best bets for, 120

beef juice, best bets for, 34–35beef jus

best bets for, 34–35rare, best bets for, 34–35

beef stockaromatics for, best bets for, 8best bets for, 6–7

beef tonguein Beef Cheek Pastrami, 121cooking sous vide, best bets for, 96hot-smoking, best bets for, 120

beerGuinness “Pâte de Fruit,” 265infusing flavors into liquids with, 24

beeswax, Sea Urchin Bottarga, 111beets

acidity of, 278Beet Flexicurd, 296Beet Juice-Fed Oysters, 119Beet Meringue, 335Borscht Broth, 14cooking sous vide until tender, best bets for,

139dehydrating, best bets for, 185preserving, best bets for, 182puree of, best bets for, 55Sous Vide Baby Beet Salad, 138

beignetsbatter for, best bets for, 163Oyster Beignet, 166Pork Trotter Beignet, 169Potato Beignets with Caviar, 283Zucchini Blossom Beignets, 341

bell peppersacidity of, 278preserving, best bets for, 182Smoked Pepper Puree, 203Strawberry Gazpacho, 33

Berasategui, Martín, Ling Cod with Bergamot-Infused Milk recipe, 75

bergamotLing Cod with Bergamot-Infused Milk, 75Sous Vide Sole with Bergamot Sabayon, 319

I N D E X 3 6 7

BROTHS Bbeurre blanc, Ultrastable Beurre Blanc, 296biscuits, Buttermilk Biscuits, 336Black Butter Emulsion, 297Black Cod, 76black currants, acidity of, 278black gram, Crispy Dosa, 181black olives

Black Olive Puree, 306Licorice Powder, 52

black pepper, infusing flavor into liquids from, 20

Black Sesame Rice Crisps, 343black truffles

Black Truffle Concentrate, 57Boudin Blanc, 131Cromesquis, 168Milk Skin with Grilled Salsify and Truffle

Puree, 250Pecorino with Truffle Honey on Cedar, 244Truffle Jus, 212

blackberriesacidity of, 278Constructed Red Wine Glaze, 24puree of, best bets for cooking berries for,

144Sous Vide Berry Juice, 32

Blackstrap Molasses Country Ham, 110blast chiller, roasting chicken in combi oven, 3blender

Aerated Coffee Ice Cream, 349Aerated Gruyère, 348Bacon Chips with Butterscotch, Apple, and

Thyme, 113commercial

Broccoli and Hazelnut-Oil Puree, 56Hazelnut “Cream,” 310Jus Gras, 310for making fruit and vegetable purees, 55Pistachio Puree, 57

handAerated Foie Gras, 348for airs, bubbles, and froths, 312Black Sesame Rice Crisps, 343Cheesy Whip, 301Citrus Air, 312Oysters with Mignonette Air, 313Pork Loin Roast, 94

immersionFoie Gras Cherries, 270Horchata Foam, 316Parmesan “Polenta,” 288Parsley Foam, 313Passion Fruit Brown Butter Fluid Gel, 286Razor Clam “Takoyaki,” 171

Tom Yum Broth, 18blood oranges

Blood Orange Foam, 317Blood Orange Sabayon, 318Spray-Dried Blood Orange Juice, 59

blood pudding. See boudin noirBlood Pudding Custard, 298blood sausage, best bets for, 128–129

blowtorchAvocado Puree, 201Braised Short Ribs, 90Edible Prune Coals, 347Foie Gras Parfait Spheres, 270Hay-Smoked Chicken Crown, 122Pecorino with Truffle Honey on Cedar, 244Pork Ribs, 88Rib Eye with Cherry Mustard Marmalade

and Porcini, 70Steamed Blancmange, 335

blueberriesacidity of, 278Constructed Red Wine Glaze, 24Sous Vide Berry Juice, 32

Blumenthal, HestonAerated Chocolate recipe, 349Blood Pudding Custard recipe, 298British banger recipe, 124–125Citrus Spice recipe, 52Crispy Halibut Cheek recipe, 165Cryopoached Green Tea Sour recipe, 332Edible Wrappers recipe, 230Fizzy Grape Fluid Gel recipe, 289on gazpacho flavor, 33Hot and Cold Tea recipe, 286Lemon Strips recipe, 228Mackerel with Spicy Tomato Skin recipe,

284“Marmite broth” recipe, 14–15Microwave-Fried Parsley recipe, 157Mock Turtle Soup recipe, 48Onion Fluid Gel recipe, 288Passion Fruit Jelly recipe, 287Pommes Pont-Neuf recipe, 160Potato Puree recipe, 151Salmon Poached in Licorice recipe, 272Tomato Confit recipe, 179

Boeuf en Gelée, 277boiling point, vacuum pressure vs., 47bok choy

frying naked, best bets for, 159Sichuan Bok Choy, 158

Bone Marrow Custard, 276bonito

Hon Dashi, 15Quinoa and Idiazábal with Bonito Stock

Veil, 281Borscht Broth, 14boudin blanc

Boudin Blanc, 131chicken, best bets for, 128–129veal or blend, best bets for, 128–129

boudin noirBlood Pudding Custard, 298Boudin Noir Bread Pudding, 242Boudin Noir Custard, 239

Bouillabaisse Broth, 17Boulud, Daniel, Boeuf en Gelée recipe, 277Braised Lamb Shoulder, 88Braised Pine Nuts with Winter Squash, 155Braised Sauerkraut, 177Braised Short Ribs, 90

Braised Turnips with Saffron, 140Braised Veal Foreshank, 89Branson 8150 ultrasonic bath, 161Bras, Michel, 208

Licorice Powder recipe, 52Molasses Butter recipe, 29Soft-Boiled Egg and Garlic Emulsion recipe,

304bratwurst, best bets for, 128–129bread

Boudin Noir Bread Pudding, 242Corn Bread, 256Egg Salad Sandwich, 238Eggs Benedict, 236Hamburger Bun, 334Moroccan Batbout Flatbread, 338Rye Bread, 337Skate Pavé with Bread Crust, 78

bread crumbs, for breadings, 167breading, 167–172

adhesives for, 167breadings for, 167liquids for, 167

breakfast-style sausage, best bets for, 124–125brines

best bets for, 101Juniper Brine, 109phosphates in, 101

briningAnkimo Torchon, 97best bets for, 103Combi Oven-Steamed Broccoli, 5Fossilized Salsify Branch, 199Fried Pickles, 164Hay-Smoked Chicken Crown, 122judging when complete, 101Lutefisk, 114Modernist Fried Chicken, 166Mussels in Mussel Juice Spheres, 294Pork Tenderloin with Juniper, 69Salted, Freeze-Dried Lobster, 60smoking after, 101Sous Vide Pork Belly, 88Sous Vide Salmon, 78Watermelon Meat, 197

brioche, Boudin Noir Bread Pudding, 242British banger, best bets for, 124–125broccoli

acidity of, 278Broccoli and Hazelnut-Oil Puree, 56Combi Oven-Steamed Broccoli, 5frying naked, best bets for, 159puree of, best bets for, 55

Broiled Tuna Belly with Montpellier Butter, 298

bromelainAged Rare Beef Jus, 216Sous Vide Rare Beef Jus, 40

bronze powder, Frozen White “Truffle,” 198broths, 14–19

Bacon Dashi, 18Baked Potato Broth, 19best bets for, 14–15


BROTHSBbroths (continued)

Borscht Broth, 14Bouillabaisse Broth, 17Cured Ham Broth, 18Duck Broth with Vanilla and Bay Leaf, 16Everything Bagel Broth, 258freeze-drying, 58

prefreezing temperature for, 59Goulash Broth, 19Ham Broth, 16Hon Dashi, 15Laksa Broth, 17Mushroom Broth, 19Oxtail Pho Broth, 16Tom Yum Broth, 18

Brown Beef Stock, 10brown butter

Brown Butter Fumet, 26consommé using, best bets for, 42–43infusing flavor into liquids from, 27

Brown Veal Stock, 11Brussels sprouts

acidity of, 278Deep-Fried Brussels Sprouts, 159frying naked, best bets for, 159

bubbles, 314best bets for, 312

buckwheat pasta doughbest bets for, 191Buckwheat Dough, 194

Buddha’s Hand Vodka, 47buffering, 23bulbs, best bets for microwaving, 157Burmese Chickpea Tofu Laksa, 255burrata, Modernist Burrata, 247butter

Black Butter Emulsion, 297brown. See brown butter

Centrifuged Carotene Butter, 40chantilly-style foam of, 322Coffee Butter, 350Condrieu Butter, 25Deep-Fried Hollandaise, 305Hot Butter Foam, 324infusing flavor into liquids from, 27Molasses Butter, 29Oyster Butter Emulsion, 297Passion Fruit Brown Butter Fluid Gel, 286Sea Urchin Butter, 297Shellfish Butter, 29Sous Vide Instant Hollandaise, 305Ultrastable Beurre Blanc, 296Whipped Butter, 329

buttermilkButtermilk Biscuits, 336for farmer’s cheese, 245Spray-Dried Buttermilk, 59

butternut squashBraised Pine Nuts with Winter Squash, 155cooking sous vide until tender, best bets for,

139freeze-drying, best bets for, 188

butternut squash (continued)Pickled Butternut Squash, 180Squash Glaze, 39

button mushroomsacidity of, 278Boudin Blanc, 131Foie Gras and Button Mushroom Tart, 98

Ccabbage. See also specific kinds of cabbage

Braised Sauerkraut, 177dehydrating, best bets for, 185preserving, best bets for, 182

Caesar Salad, 189cakes

Green Tea Cake, 333Microwaved Pistachio Sponge Cake, 333

calcium chloridefeta cheese, 247Ham Consommé with Melon Beads, 211Hot and Cold Tea, 286Melon Caviar, 291mozzarella cheese, 247for spherification, 290

calcium gluconatefor cold gels, 260Dill Spheres, 259Hot Green Apple Gel, 280Hot Quince Gel, 280Mussels in Mussel Juice Spheres, 294for spherification, 290

calcium hydroxide, Fossilized Salsify Branch, 199

calcium lactateCaper Droplets, 293Carbonated Mojito Spheres, 291Compressed Melon Terrine, 196Gruyère Spheres, 293Liquid Pimento Olive, 294“Poached” Egg, 292Prosciutto and Melon “Raw Egg,” 295for spherification, 290Tomato Spheres with Basil Oil, 292

calcium sulfateFirm Tofu, 248for tofu, 245

Camembert cheese, chantilly-style foam of, 322

Campden tablets. See sodium metabisulfiteCanadian bacon, Eggs Benedict, 236Candied Puffed Oats, 345canning jars

Aerated Gruyère, 348Aerated Mango Sorbet, 347Autoclaved Onion Soup, 150Caramelized Crème Fraîche, 203Coffee Butter, 350Eggless Citrus Curd, 307Garlic Confit, 176Lamb Garlic Jus in a Jar, 37Modernist Béchamel recipe, 202Molasses Butter, 29Preserved Lemons, 174

cantaloupeCompressed Melon Terrine, 196cooking sous vide until tender, best bets for,

138Cantonese Fried Rice, 2

I N D E X 3 6 9

CHAWANMUSHI Ccapers

Caper Droplets, 293seasoning with, 21

capon broth, best bets for, 14–15Cappuccino Foam, 315Caramelized Carrot Soup, 150Caramelized Coconut Cream, 214Caramelized Crème Fraîche, 203caramels, BBQ Caramels, 231carbon black powder

Edible Prune Coals, 347Spiced Ash, 206

Carbonated Mojito Spheres, 291carbonating fruit, 62–63carbonating siphon

Carbonated Golden Raisins, 63Ginger Cola, 311Orange Soda, 62Shigoku Oyster with Fizzy Grapes, Fresh

Wasabi, and Miso Powder, 63Two-Meter Parmesan Spaghetto, 262

Carême, Antonin, 241Carmona, John Paul, Beef Cheek Pastrami

recipe, 121carrageenan

iotaThe American Cheese Slice, 300Baked Potato Foam, 324Chestnut Cream, 328for coating gels, 269for cold gels, 260for constructed cheeses, 299Constructed Veal Cream, 300Crimini in Amber, 271Cromesquis, 168for fluid gels, 285Gruyère Custard, 275Mac and Cheese, 192“Poached” Egg, 292Popcorn Pudding, 287Razor Clam “Takoyaki,” 171for spherification, 290for thick foams, 322Whipped Cheese, 317

kappaThe American Cheese Slice, 300Beet Flexicurd, 296for coating gels, 269for cold gels, 260Crimini in Amber, 271for fluid gels, 285Gruyère Custard, 275Popcorn Pudding, 287Sunny-Side Up “Eggs,” 268

lambdafor constructed cheeses, 299Herbed Cheese Spread, 227Instant Crème Fraîche, 227Jerusalem Artichoke Pudding, 202Low-Fat “Cream,” 226Modernist Béchamel, 202Pistachio Gelato, 310

carrageenan, lambda (continued)Poached Apple with Pecorino Foam, 320for thickening cold liquids, 211for thickening hot liquids, 210Tomato Whey Broth, 212Whipped Cheese, 317

carrotsacidity of, 278Caramelized Carrot Soup, 150Carrot and Dill Fricassee, 141Centrifuged Carotene Butter, 40chips using, best bets for, 162cooking sous vide, best bets for, 147cooking sous vide until tender, best bets for,

139cooking sous vide with fat, best bets for, 143Freeze-Dried Carrot Foam, 340freeze-drying, best bets for, 188Glazed Carrot, 25Glazed White Carrot, 139Nukazake, 175preserving, best bets for, 182puree of, best bets for, 55Root Vegetable Risotto, 156

Carsberg, ScottDungeness Crab and Apple Roulade recipe,

281Pecorino with Truffle Honey on Cedar

recipe, 244cashews

Cashew Halvah, 207Mughal Curry Sauce, 222

caulifloweracidity of, 278Cauliflower Crème Anglaise, 235Cauliflower Foam, 326Cauliflower Panna Cotta, 263dehydrating, best bets for, 185frying naked, best bets for, 159preserving, best bets for, 182puree of, best bets for, 55

caviarcold-smoking, best bets for, 120Melon Caviar, 291Potato Beignets with Caviar, 283

cavitation. See ultrasonic bathcelery

acidity of, 278compressing/impregnating, best bets for,

195celery root

Celery Root Mousseline, 57chips using, best bets for, 162cooking sous vide until tender, best bets for,

139Pickled Celery Root, 179puree of, best bets for, 55

cellulose, microcrystallineHouse Barbecue Sauce, 220Maple Vinegar Gastrique, 216in mortadella, 129Pea Vine Salad, 222Red-Eye Gravy, 225

cellulose, microcrystalline (continued)Spray-Dried Buttermilk, 59for thickening hot liquids, 210

cellulose gels. See methylcellulose; methylcellulose gum gels

cellulose gumBeef Tenderloin with Jus de Roti, 212Dairy-Free Whipped Cream, 326Low-Fat “Cream,” 226LV

for thickening cold liquids, 211for thickening hot liquids, 210

Pressure-Cooked Polenta with Strawberry Marinara, 214

White Grape Syrup, 213XO Sauce, 213

centrifugingAbalone and Foie Gras Shabu-Shabu with

Yuba and Enoki, 84Aged Rare Beef Jus, 216Bagna Càuda Consommé, 44Banana Yogurt, 41Centrifuged Carotene Butter, 40Centrifuged Pea Juice, 41Centrifuged Roasted-Hazelnut Oil, 41Cinnamon-Scented Pea Juice, 25Everything Bagel Broth, 258extracting citrus essential oil, 47Freeze-Dried Beef Gravy Granules, 60Goulash Broth, 19Gruyère Soufflé, 340Instant Tofu Noodles, 283Melon Water, 31Meyer Lemonade, 31Orange Soda, 62Pistachio Consommé, 44Potato Puree, 148Salmon Custard, 253Spring Garlic Consommé, 44Strawberry Consommé, 32Tomato Water, 40

century eggbest bets for, 234Century Egg, 234

ceviche, Fluke Ceviche, 117Chaat Masala, 50Champion-style juicer

Corn Custard, 256Tomato Water, 40

Chang, DavidBacon Dashi recipe, 18Deep-Fried Brussels Sprouts recipe, 159Kimchi recipe, 175Shaved Foie Gras recipe, 105Uni with Whipped Tofu and Tapioca recipe,

328Chapel, Alain, Pigeon with Shellfish Butter

recipe, 72chard stems, cooking sous vide until tender,

best bets for, 139chawanmushi

best bets for, 239Chawanmushi, 242


CHEDDAR CHEESECcheddar cheese

Cheddar Soup, 301Cheese Puffs, 344Frozen Cheddar-Cheese Powder, 53Mac and Cheese, 192

cheese. See also specific kinds of cheeseCheese in a Tube, 300Cheese Puffs, 344Cheesy Whip, 301constructed, 299–301

best bets for, 299Fresh Cheese Curds, 247seasoning with, 21slices of, best bets for, 299

cherriesacidity of, 278cooking sous vide until tender, best bets for,

138Dried Cherry and Hazelnut Nougatine,

230Foie Gras Cherries, 270Pickled Bing Cherry, 180preserving, best bets for, 182Rib Eye with Cherry Mustard Marmalade

and Porcini, 70chestnuts

Chestnut Confit, 143Chestnut Cream, 328Chestnut Puffs, 336cooking sous vide with fat, best bets for,

143chicken. See also poultry

Boudin Blanc, 131breast of, brining, best bets for, 103Chicken Tikka Masala, 118Chilled Chicken-Noodle Soup, 311The Colonel’s Fried Chicken, 165Combi Oven Roast Chicken, 3cooking sous vide, best bets for, 71Fried Chicken Sausage, 137Gong Bao Chicken, 119Hay-Smoked Chicken Crown, 122leg of

brining, best bets for, 103cooking sous vide, best bets for, 82

Low-Fat Chicken Sausage, 136Modernist Fried Chicken, 166oysters of, Yakitori, 115Poulet au Feu d’Enfer, 72Pressure-Cooked White Chicken Stock, 11Sauce Vin Jaune, 308Spiced Shellfish Stock, 9thighs of, cooking sous vide, best bets for,

82Triple Dungeness Crab and Pork Stock

Infusion, 10whole

brining, best bets for, 103cold-smoking, best bets for, 120hot-smoking, best bets for, 120

wings of, cooking sous vide, best bets for, 82Yakitori, 115

chicken feet, Puffed Chicken Feet, 95

chicken gizzard, cooking sous vide, best bets for, 96

chicken juicebest bets for, 34–35brown, best bets for, 34–35

chicken skin, Ultracrisp Chicken Crown, 93chicken stock, best bets for, 6–7chickpea flour, Burmese Chickpea Tofu

Laksa, 255chickpeas

cooking under pressure, best bets for, 149green, cooking sous vide, best bets for, 147Puffed Chickpeas, 344puffed snacks made from, best bets for, 342

chili peppersChili Pearls, 265Chili Tomato Spice Blend, 49chipotle, Spiced Chili Oil, 29dried, infusing flavor into liquids from, 20,

27piquillo, freeze-drying, best bets for, 188preserving, best bets for, 182

Chilled Chicken-Noodle Soup, 311Chinese artichokes, cooking sous vide with

fat, best bets for, 143Chinese banquet stock

aromatics for, best bets for, 8best bets for, 6–7

Chinese everyday stockaromatics for, best bets for, 8best bets for, 6–7

Chinese ginger soy fish broth, best bets for, 14–15

chips, fruit and vegetablebest bets for, 162dehydrating formulas for, 186

chives, freeze-drying, best bets for, 188chocolate

Aerated Chocolate, 349Chocolate Chantilly, 322siphoned soufflé using, 338

chocolate water, best bets for, 42–43chorizo

best bets for, 132–133Chorizo French Toast, 243Passion Fruit Marshmallow with Chorizo

Powder, 332Christian Hansen M-EK-4 mold culture, for

fermented sausage, 132chufa nuts

Horchata (Chufa Milk), 228Horchata Foam, 316

cider. See apple cider/apple juicecinnamon

Cinnamon-Scented Pea Juice, 25infusing flavor into liquids from, 20, 27

citric acidBeet Meringue, 335for cold gels, 260Deep-Fried Hollandaise, 305Dill Spheres, 259Hot Orange Gel, 279Hot Quince Gel, 280

citric acid (continued)for lowering pH, 22Lychee and Lime Soda, 315Meyer Lemonade, 31Pink Grapefruit Confit, 146for posset, 245to preserve color and flavor of fresh juice,

31Sous Vide Lemon Curd, 304Spray-Dried Blood Orange Juice, 59

Citrus Air, 312citrus fruits. See also specific fruits

cooking under pressure, best bets for, 149dehydrating, best bets for, 185juice of

concentrations of, 23for lowering pH, 22

preserving, best bets for, 182zest of, infusing flavor into liquids from, 20,

27citrus oil

distilling, 47extracting mechanically, 47how to wash, 26

Citrus Spice, 52clams. See also geoduck clams; razor clams

Clam Juice, 36cooking sous vide, best bets for, 79Pen Shell Clam, Pluot, Myoga, Scallop

Mochi, 32Sous Vide Clam and Oat Risotto, 154

Clay Potatoes, 199Clove Oil, 25Coarse Fat-Gel Sausage, 136coating gels, 269–273

best bets for, 269temperature, textures, and firmness of, 269

cockles, cooking sous vide, best bets for, 79cock’s kidneys

cooking sous vide, best bets for, 96Sous Vide Pigeon Offal, 98

cockscombscooking sous vide, best bets for, 96Puffed Cockscomb, 94

cocoaCocoa Nib Curd, 246Cocoa Tajarin, 19419th-Century-Style Lobster with Sherry

and Cocoa, 80cocoa tajarin

Cocoa Tajarin, 194dough for, best bets for, 191

coconutCaramelized Coconut Cream, 214fresh, cooking under pressure, best bets for,

149preserving, best bets for, 182

coconut creamCoconut Chutney Foam, 325Coconut-Lobster Emulsion, 319

coconut milkcaramelized, cooking under pressure, best

bets for, 149

I N D E X 3 7 1

CRISP COAT UC Ccoconut milk (continued)

Coconut Chutney Foam, 325Steamed Sticky Rice, 152Sunny-Side Up “Eggs,” 268

codBlack Cod, 76cold-smoking, best bets for, 120cooking sous vide, best bets for, 74Ling Cod with Bergamot-Infused Milk, 75Miso-Cured Black Cod, 106salt cod broth and, best bets for, 14–15skin of, Monkfish with Constructed Skin,

95Steamed Cod with Cod Roe Velouté, 203

coffeeAerated Coffee Ice Cream, 349Cappuccino Foam, 315Coffee Butter, 350infusing flavor into liquids from, 20, 27Mushroom and Bacon Cappuccino, 320

Cognac, infusing flavors into liquids with, 24cola brine, best bets for, 101cold extraction, of flavors, 350cold gels, 260–268

best bets for, 260–261textures of, 260

cold-pressing, for making citrus oils, 31cold-smoking

Blackstrap Molasses Country Ham, 110Frankfurter, 130of meats, best bets for, 120Russian Smoked Salmon, 121Smoked Pork Cheek, 122Smoked Potatoes with Vin Jaune Sabayon,

184coleslaw

Red Coleslaw, 46White Coleslaw, 302

colloid millfor making purees, 55Marcona Almond Butter Paste, 205Pistachio Puree, 57Romesco Sauce, 54

The Colonel’s Fried Chicken, 165combi oven

Bone Marrow Custard, 276Cantonese Fried Rice, 2Combi Oven Rib Eye, 4Combi Oven Roast Chicken, 3Combi Oven-Steamed Broccoli, 5cooking bacon in, 2cooking eggs in, 2Ham and Cheese Omelet, 240Hamburger Bun, 334Hay-Smoked Chicken Crown, 122Omelet Base, 243Roast Pigeon Crown, 4roasting chicken in, 3Silken Tofu, 246Spot Prawns with Foie Gras Nage, 307Steamed Blancmange, 335toasting spices using, 48

Compressed Dill-Pickled Vegetables, 178

Compressed Melon Terrine, 196Compressed Muscat Grapes, 196compressing produce, 195–199

best bets for, 195condenser. See rotary evaporatorCondrieu Butter, 25Confit Cure Mix, 106Confit Egg-Yolk Puree, 288Connaughton, Kyle

Fluke Cured in Kombu recipe, 110Sous Vide Ponzu recipe, 22

consommé, 42–46Apple Cider Consommé, 43Bagna Càuda Consommé, 44best bets for, 42–43clarifying, 43madrilène, best bets for, 42–43Oxtail Consommé, 46Oyster Consommé, 42Pistachio Consommé, 44Pot-au-Feu Consommé, 45Spring Garlic Consommé, 44

constructed cheeses, 299–301best bets for, 299

constructed creams, 310Constructed Veal Cream, 300convection oven

toasting spices using, 48Ultracrisp Chicken Crown, 93

conventional oven, Ham and Cheese Omelet, 240

coriander seeds, infusing flavor into liquids from, 27

cornon cob

cooking sous vide until tender, best bets for, 139

smoked, best bets for, 183cooking sous vide, best bets for, 147Corn Bread, 256Corn Croquetta, 169Corn Custard, 256Corn Foam, 318Corn Pebbles, 209Crispy Corn Pudding, 172dehydrating, best bets for, 185dried, Shrimp and Grits, 190freeze-drying, best bets for, 188puffed snacks made from, best bets for, 342puree of, best bets for, 55

corn starch, thickening with, best bets for, 200corned beef cure, best bets for, 102cornmeal batter, best bets for, 163cottage cheese, fresh, best bets for, 245crab

Crab Oil, 30Dungeness Crab and Apple Roulade, 281Edamame Sheets, King Crab, Cinnamon

Dashi, 254Puffed Crab Cracker, 344Spiced Shellfish Stock, 9Triple Dungeness Crab and Pork Stock

Infusion, 10

Cracco, Carlo, Seafood Paper recipe, 113crackers

Puffed Crab Cracker, 344Tapioca Starch Cracker, 343

cranberriesacidity of, 278cooking sous vide until tender, best bets for,

138cream. See also creams

Agar Carbonara, 275Asparagus Royale, 241Cauliflower Panna Cotta, 263Goat Milk Ricotta, 248Gruyère Custard, 275Herbed Cheese Spread, 227Instant Crème Fraîche, 227Modernist Burrata, 247Parmesan Crème Brûlée, 237Sauce Allemande, 237for set foams, 330Shellfish Custard, 276Spaghetti Carbonara, 192

cream cheese, Crispy Cream Cheese, 229cream of wheat, for breadings, 167Creamed Spinach, 215Creamed Watercress, 56creams, 226–228

best bets for, 226constructed, 310Constructed Veal Cream, 300Dairy-Free Whipped Cream, 326Frozen Crème-Fraîche and Pine-Nut

Cream, 54Hazelnut “Cream,” 310Herbed Cheese Spread, 227Instant Crème Fraîche, 227Jus Gras, 310Low-Fat “Cream,” 226Pistachio Gelato, 310

crème anglaisebest bets for, 235Cauliflower Crème Anglaise, 235

crème brûléebest bets for, 235Parmesan Crème Brûlée, 237

crème fraîcheBanana Yogurt, 41Caramelized Crème Fraîche, 203Frozen Crème-Fraîche and Pine-Nut

Cream, 54crimini mushrooms


Crimini in Amber, 271Mushroom Broth, 19Mushroom Jus, 37Mushroom Ketchup, 217

Crisp Coat UCCheese Puffs, 344Corn Croquetta, 169for fruit and vegetable chips, 162Pork Loin Roast, 94


CRISP COAT UCCCrisp Coat UC (continued)

Quail with Apple-Vinegar Emulsion and Water Chestnuts, 73

Restructured Potato Chips, 162Watermelon Chips, 162

crispsBlack Sesame Rice Crisps, 342Gremolata Crisp, 346Rice Crisp, 343Whipped Yogurt Crisps, 333

Crispy Beef and Shallot Salad, 108Crispy Beef Strands, 108Crispy Boiled Peanuts, 151Crispy Corn Pudding, 172Crispy Cream Cheese, 229Crispy Dosa, 181Crispy Duck Tongues, 87Crispy Goat’s Milk Ricotta Pudding, 205Crispy Halibut Cheek, 165Crispy Okra, 167Crispy Sweetbreads, 100crispy tempura batter, best bets for, 163Cromesquis, 168crosnes, cooking sous vide with fat, best bets

for, 143Cruz, Jordi, Olive Oil Noodles recipe, 266Cryopoached Green Tea Sour, 332Crystallized Rose Petals, 187cucumbers

acidity of, 278chips using, best bets for, 162Compressed Dill-Pickled Vegetables, 178compressing/impregnating, best bets for,

195Fried Pickles, 164frying naked, best bets for, 159Nukazake, 175preserving, best bets for, 182Sous Vide Cucumber Pickles, 176Strawberry Gazpacho, 33

Cured Beef Tenderloin “Bresaola Style,” 111Cured Ham Broth, 18cured meats, seasoning with, 21cures

vacuum sealing, 106wet, best bets for, 102

curingbest bets for, 103Blackstrap Molasses Country Ham, 110Cured Beef Tenderloin “Bresaola Style,” 111Duck Leg Confit with Pommes Sarladaises,

105Fluke Cured in Kombu, 110Foie Gras Parfait, 104Foie Gras Torchon, 104Grapefruit-Cured Salmon, 107Heather-Smoked Sturgeon, 122House-Cured Bacon, 107Miso-Cured Black Cod, 106Miso-Cured Egg Sheets, 236Quail with Apple-Vinegar Emulsion and

Water Chestnuts, 73

curing (continued)Salted Halibut, 112Sous Vide Duck Ham, 109

curing salt, for fermented sausage, 132currants, red

acidity of, 278for lowering pH, 22

Curry Oil, 30curry sauces

Goan Curry Sauce, 224Kerala Curry Sauce, 224Masala Curry Sauce, 225Mughal Curry Sauce, 222Muslim Curry Sauce, 223

Curry-Impregnated Apple, 196custards, 233

Blood Pudding Custard, 298Bone Marrow Custard, 276Boudin Noir Custard, 239chawanmushi

best bets for, 239Chawanmushi, 242

Corn Custard, 256Deep-Fried Custard, 255egg white, best bets for, 235Gruyère Custard, 275royale

Asparagus Royale, 241best bets for, 239

Salmon Custard, 253Shellfish Custard, 276Smoked Egg Crème Caramel, 244textures of, 233

cuttlefish, best bets for cooking, 83CVap oven

Hay-Smoked Chicken Crown, 122Omelet Base, 243Silken Tofu, 246

cysteine. See also L-cysteine

DDacosta, Quique

Frozen White “Truffle” recipe, 198Kanpachi Sashimi with Citrus Foam recipe,

313Lemon Verbena and Peach Froth recipe,

318simulation of nature in dishes of, 208

daikon radishescooking sous vide until tender, best bets for,

139frying naked, best bets for, 159

dairy brine, best bets for, 101dairy emulsions, 296–298dairy gels, transglutaminase, best bets for,

252–253dairy products. See also specific dairy products

smoked, 244best bets for, 244

Dairy-Free Whipped Cream, 326dashi

best bets for, 14–15Edamame Sheets, King Crab, Cinnamon

Dashi, 254Dashimaki Tamago, 241dates

Date Puree, 145pitted, best bets for cooking for puree, 144

deep-fryingwith batter. See batter-fryingBlack Sesame Rice Crisps, 343of breaded foods, 167Burmese Chickpea Tofu Laksa, 255Cauliflower Crème Anglaise, 235Chestnut Puffs, 336Corn Croquetta, 169Crab Oil, 30Crispy Beef and Shallot Salad, 108Crispy Boiled Peanuts, 151Crispy Corn Pudding, 172Crispy Duck Tongues, 87Crispy Goat’s Milk Ricotta Pudding, 205Crispy Okra, 167Crispy Sweetbreads, 100Cromesquis, 168Deep-Fried Brussels Sprouts, 159Deep-Fried Custard, 255Deep-Fried Hollandaise, 305Fried Green Tomatoes, 168of fruit and vegetable chips, 162naked, 159–161

best bets for, 159Onion Rings, 170Pectinase-Steeped Fries, 160Pen Shell Clam, Pluot, Myoga, Scallop

Mochi, 32Pommes Pont-Neuf, 160Pork Loin Roast, 94Pork Trotter Beignet, 169Pressure-Cooked Carnitas, 92Puffed Chicken Feet, 95

I N D E X 3 7 3

DUNLOP, FUCHSIA Ddeep-frying (continued)

Puffed Chickpeas, 344Puffed Cockscomb, 94Puffed Crab Cracker, 344Puffed Salmon Skin Pillows, 95puffing skin on a pork roast, 93Quail with Apple-Vinegar Emulsion and

Water Chestnuts, 73Razor Clam “Takoyaki,” 171Rice Crisp, 343Scallop Mochi, 345Starch-Infused Fries, 161Starch-Infused Ultrasonic Fries, 161Tapioca Starch Cracker, 343Toasted Garlic Chips, 159Ultracrisp Chicken Crown, 93Ultrasonic Fries, 161Zucchini Blossom Beignets, 341

Degeimbre, Sang-Hoon, Lychee and Lime Soda recipe, 315

dehydrating. See also dryingBacon Chip, 104Bacon Chips with Butterscotch, Apple, and

Thyme, 113Beet Meringue, 335Black Sesame Rice Crisps, 343Cheese Puffs, 344Citrus Spice, 52Crispy Boiled Peanuts, 151Crispy Cream Cheese, 229Crispy Duck Tongues, 87Crispy Goat’s Milk Ricotta Pudding, 205of fruits and vegetables, 185–187

best bets for, 185formulas for, 186

Garlic Nougatine, 185Green Olive Meringue, 339Green Pea Wafer, 186Gremolata Crisp, 346Licorice Powder, 52Mackerel with Spicy Tomato Skin, 284Mandarin Leather, 187without a microwave, 108Microwaved Beef Jerky, 108by microwaving, 157Onion Rings, 170Passion Fruit Marshmallow with Chorizo

Powder, 332Pineapple Glass, 187Puffed Chicken Feet, 95Puffed Chickpeas, 344Puffed Cockscomb, 94Puffed Crab Cracker, 344of puffed snacks, 342puffing skin on a pork roast and, 93Rice Crisp, 343Scallop Mochi, 345Seafood Paper, 113Spinach Paper, 187Tapioca Starch Cracker, 343of vegetable purees using microwave, best

bets for, 157Watermelon Meat, 197

deionized water, Lemon Strips, 228delicata squash, cooking sous vide until

tender, best bets for, 139delta decalactone, Whipped Butter, 329depositing funnel, Mock Turtle Soup, 48Deviled Eggs, 233Dewar flask, Cryopoached Green Tea Sour,

332dextrose

Aerated Coffee Ice Cream, 349DE 36, Spray-Dried Buttermilk, 59Fast-Cured Pepperoni, 135in fermented sausage, 133Frankfurter, 130in frankfurters, 129Lychee and Lime Soda, 315Saucisson Sec, 134

diglycerides. See mono- and diglyceridesdill

Carrot and Dill Fricassee, 141Dill Spheres, 259

disodium phosphate, for constructed cheeses, 299

Douglas fir buds, Grapefruit-Cured Salmon, 107

DQ Curing Salt, Blackstrap Molasses Country Ham, 110

dragon fruit, compressing/impregnating, best bets for, 195

D-ribose powder, Beef Tenderloin with Jus de Roti, 212

Dried Cherry and Hazelnut Nougatine, 230droplet maker, Melon Caviar, 291dry ice

for carbonating fruit, 62Strawberry Milk Shake, 62

dry rubsbest bets for, 102Kansas Rub, 49Memphis Rub, 49sweet, best bets for, 102using, 49

drying. See also air-drying; dehydrating; freeze-drying; spray-drying; vacuum-drying

of fermented sausage, 132, 133Tomato Confit, 179

Ducasse, AlainAsparagus Royale recipe, 241Jus de la Presse recipe, 34Rib Eye with Cherry Mustard Marmalade

and Porcini recipe, 70duck. See also poultry

breast ofbrining, best bets for, 103curing, best bets for, 103

cooking sous vide, best bets for, 71Duck Broth with Vanilla and Bay Leaf, 16Duck Leg Confit with Pommes Sarladaises,

105leg of

cooking sous vide, best bets for, 82curing, best bets for, 103

duck (continued)Sous Vide Duck Confit Pavé, 82Sous Vide Duck Ham, 109

duck eggsCantonese Fried Rice, 2Century Egg, 234Liquid Center Duck Egg, 232

duck foie gras. See foie grasduck stock, best bets for, 6–7duck tongue

cooking sous vide, best bets for, 82, 96Crispy Duck Tongues, 87

Dufresne, WylieAerated Foie Gras recipe, 348Almond Polenta recipe, 207Avocado Puree recipe, 201Barbecued Eel with Whipped Caramel

recipe, 327Cheese Puffs recipe, 344Corn Pebbles recipe, 209Crispy Cream Cheese recipe, 229Crispy Goat’s Milk Ricotta Pudding recipe,

205Deep-Fried Hollandaise recipe, 305Edamame Sheets, King Crab, Cinnamon

Dashi recipe, 254Edible Earth recipe, 208Egg Salad Sandwich recipe, 238Eggs Benedict recipe, 238Fermented Shrimp Sheets recipe, 134Gruyère Spheres recipe, 293Hanger Steak Tartare recipe, 65Horseradish Foam recipe, 327Instant Tofu Noodles recipe, 283Knot Foie recipe, 264Popcorn Pudding recipe, 287Sous Vide Duck Ham recipe, 109Sunny-Side Up “Eggs” recipe, 268

dumplings, Goat Cheese Dumplings, 246Dungeness Crab and Apple Roulade, 281Dunlop, Fuchsia, Gong Bao Chicken recipe,

119


EAST TEXAS BARBECUE SAUCEEEEast Texas Barbecue Sauce, 221Edamame Sheets, King Crab, Cinnamon

Dashi, 254Edible Earth, 208edible films, 229–231

best bets for, 229Edible Prune Coals, 347Edible Soap Bar with Honey Bubbles, 314Edible Wrappers, 230eel

Barbecued Eel with Whipped Caramel, 327cooking sous vide, best bets for, 74

egg emulsions, 302–305egg gels

blended, 239–243best bets for, 239

separated, 235–238best bets for, 235

transglutaminase, best bets for, 252–253egg white foam, as liquid for breading, 167egg whites

Asparagus Royale, 241cooking in combi oven, 2custards made with, best bets for, 235Dashimaki Tamago, 241droplets of, best bets for, 235Eggs Benedict, 236French Scrambled Eggs, 240Fried Egg Foam, 326Instant Swiss Meringue, 323for set foams, 330Siphoned Soufflé à la Lorraine, 338Steamed Blancmange, 335

egg yolksAsparagus Royale, 241Basic Mayonnaise, 303batter made with, best bets for, 163Boudin Noir Custard, 239Broiled Tuna Belly with Montpellier Butter,

298Confit Egg-Yolk Puree, 288cooking in combi oven, 2custards made with, textures of, 233Dashimaki Tamago, 241Deep-Fried Custard, 255Deep-Fried Hollandaise, 305droplets of, best bets for, 235Egg Salad Sandwich, 238Eggs Benedict, 236for fluid gels, 285French Scrambled Eggs, 240Lemon Egg-Yolk Fluid Gel, 287for light foams, 316as liquid for breading, 167Miso-Cured Egg Sheets, 236Parmesan Crème Brûlée, 237“Poached” Egg, 292Pressure-Cooked Egg Toast, 241Sauce Allemande, 237for set foams, 330

egg yolks (continued)Siphoned Soufflé à la Lorraine, 338sliceable, best bets for, 235Sous Vide Instant Hollandaise, 305Sous Vide Lemon Curd, 304temperature for setting of, 233

Eggless Citrus Curd, 307Eggless Mayonnaise, 309eggplant

acidity of, 278chips using, best bets for, 162compressing/impregnating, best bets for,

195Eggplant Foam, 324frying naked, best bets for, 159preserving, best bets for, 182smoked, best bets for, 183

eggs, whole, 232–233. See also duck eggs; quail eggs

Arzak egg blossom, best bets for, 232baked, two-stage, best bets for, 235best bets for cooking, 232Chawanmushi, 242Chorizo French Toast, 243custards made with, textures of, 233Deviled Eggs, 233Egg Blossom, 232for fluid gels, 285freeze-drying, 58

prefreezing temperature for, 59fried, Nathan’s two-stage, best bets for, 235Ham and Cheese Omelet, 240hot-spring, fast, best bets for, 232Liquid Center Duck Egg, 232as liquid for breading, 167Omelet Base, 243onsen, best bets for, 232pasteurized, best bets for, 232Pâte à Choux, 341poached, 240preserved and pickled, 234

best bets for, 234scrambled, American, best bets for, 239scrambled, French

best bets for, 239French Scrambled Eggs, 240

Sea Urchin Tartar Sauce, 303smoked, 244

best bets for, 244Smoked Egg Crème Caramel, 244soft-boiled, best bets for, 232Soft-Boiled Egg and Garlic Emulsion, 304

Elder Flower Vinegar, 23elderberries, acidity of, 278electric mixer. See also stand mixer

Pork Loin Roast, 94Whipped Butter, 329

electric whisk. See whisk, electricEmulsified Sausage with Fat Gel, 136emulsions, 302–309

dairy, 296–298egg, 302–305

endive, Belgian, cooking sous vide until tender, best bets for, 139

enoki mushroomsAbalone and Foie Gras Shabu-Shabu with

Yuba and Enoki, 84cooking sous vide until tender, best bets for,

139enzyme clarification, Tomato Water, 40Enzyme-Treated Pink Grapefruit, 182Escoffier, Auguste, Sauce Allemande recipe,

237escolar

cooking sous vide, best bets for, 74Escolar with Red Wine Butter, 75

espresso machine steam wand, Coconut- Lobster Emulsion, 319

essential oil, to preserve color and flavor of fresh juice, 31

ethanol. See alcohol (ethanol); specific alcoholic beverages

evaporator. See rotary evaporatorEverclear, for washing citrus oil, 26Everything Bagel Broth, 258Exotic Spice Mixture, 53extracting flavor

with alcohol, 26–27best bets for, 27Brown Butter Fumet, 26Fines Herbs Extract, 27Hazelnut Oil Extract, 26House Bitters, 27

cold extraction for, 350extracts, best bets for, 27

I N D E X 3 7 5

FRIED GREEN TOMATOES FFfarce royale

Farce Royale, 126Roast Pigeon Crown, 4

farmer’s cheese, best bets for, 245Fast-Cured Pepperoni, 135fats. See butter; infusing flavors, into fats; oils;

specific fats and oilsfava beans

cooking sous vide, best bets for, 147Fresh Bean Salad, 141

fennel bulbsacidity of, 278cooking sous vide until tender, best bets for,

139Steelhead Trout Confit with Fennel Salad,

77fennel seeds, infusing flavor into liquids from,

27fermenting. See also sausages, fermented

Crispy Dosa, 181fermentation methods for, 133fermented pickles formula and, 173Fermented Shrimp Sheets, 134Hamburger Bun, 334Kimchi, 175Rye Bread, 337Saucisson Sec, 134sous vide, 133

Fermento, House-Cured Bacon, 107feta cheese, how to make, 247fiddlehead ferns, Stir-Fried Fiddlehead Ferns,

160figs


195Pickled Figs, 177preserving, best bets for, 182

filtering. See freeze filtering; vacuum filtering; wine filter

Fines Herbs Extract, 27fir tree buds

about, 107Grapefruit-Cured Salmon, 107

Firm Tofu, 248fish. See also seafood; specific kinds of fish

Bouillabaisse Broth, 17cooking sous vide, 74–78

best bets for, 74fillets

brining, best bets for, 103curing, best bets for, 103

Sous Vide Fish Stock, 12white, Seafood Paper, 113

fish roe. See also caviarcold-smoking, best bets for, 120Steamed Cod with Cod Roe Velouté, 203

fish sauce, seasoning with, 21Fish Spice Mix, 51

fish stockaromatics for, best bets for, 8best bets for, 6–7

fish tank bubblers. See aquarium bubblersFizzy Grape Fluid Gel, 289flans, savory, best bets for, 239flashing. See blowtorchflavor

best bets for adding with alcohol, 24extracting with alcohol, 26–27infusing. See infusing flavors

Flojel 60, thickening with, best bets for, 201flour

as adhesive for breading, 167almond, Edible Earth, 208chickpea, Burmese Chickpea Tofu Laksa,

255rice, for pasta dough, best bets for, 191for set foams, 330White Lily brand, 336

Flourless Gnocchi, 254flower petals

Crystallized Rose Petals, 187dehydrating, best bets for, 185dried, Foie Gras Torchon with Beet and

Hibiscus Glaze, 272Elder Flower Vinegar, 23

fluid gels, 285–289best bets for, 285quick-setting, 285temperature and viscosity of, 285

flukeFluke Ceviche, 117Fluke Cured in Kombu, 110

FMC Biopolymer, Pea Vine Salad, 222foams, 312–341. See also puffed snacks

best bets for, 312light, 316–321

best bets for, 316set, 330–341

best bets for, 330–331thick, 322–329

best bets for, 322–323vacuum-set, 347–350

foie grasAbalone and Foie Gras Shabu-Shabu with

Yuba and Enoki, 84chantilly-style foam of, 322in Chorizo French Toast, 243cooking sous vide, best bets for, 96Cromesquis, 168Foie Gras and Button Mushroom Tart, 98Foie Gras and Hazelnut Ganache, 109Foie Gras Cherries, 270Foie Gras Parfait, 104Foie Gras Parfait Spheres, 270Foie Gras Soup with Bomba Rice and Sea

Lettuce, 99raw, cold-smoking, best bets for, 120Sous Vide Foie Gras, 96torchon

Aerated Foie Gras, 348cold-smoking, best bets for, 120

foie gras, torchon (continued)Foie Gras Torchon, 104Foie Gras Torchon with Beet and

Hibiscus Glaze, 272Knot Foie, 264Shaved Foie Gras, 105

water- vs. milk-soaking, 97fondants

Salsify Fondant, 143Sweet Potato Fondant, 144

fondue, best bets for, 299food processor

Aromatic Alsatian Mustard, 176Edible Earth, 208Emulsified Sausage with Fat Gel, 136Fermented Shrimp Sheets, 134Fish Spice Mix, 51Freeze-Dried Carrot Foam, 340Fried Chicken Sausage, 137Gruyère Soufflé, 340Halibut Brandade, 112Laksa Broth, 17Liquid Pimento Olive, 294Marcona Almond Butter Paste, 205Mock Turtle Soup, 48Puffed Crab Cracker, 344puffing skin on a pork roast, 93Razor Clam with Sauce Verte, 85Salmon Poached in Licorice, 272Seafood Paper, 113Soy Milk, 227Ultracrisp Chicken Crown, 93

Fossilized Salsify Branch, 199frankfurters

beef, best bets for, 128–129beef and pork, best bets for, 128–129Frankfurter, 130

freeze-drying, 58, 59–61best bets for, 58Caesar Salad, 189Freeze-Dried Beef Gravy Granules, 60Freeze-Dried Carrot Foam, 340Freeze-Dried Onion Powder, 189Onion Sablé, 188prefreezing temperatures for, 59of produce, 188–190

best bets for, 188Ramen Stock Powder, 61Ramen Vegetables, 61Salted, Freeze-Dried Lobster, 60Seared Strawberry, 189Shrimp and Grits, 190

freeze filtering, Mock Turtle Soup, 48freezing. See PacojetFrench Scrambled Eggs, 240French toast, Chorizo French Toast, 243Fresh Bean Salad, 141Fresh Cheese Curds, 247

Modernist Burrata, 247squeaky, 247

Fried Chicken Sausage, 137Fried Egg Foam, 326Fried Green Tomatoes, 168


FRIED PICKLESFFried Pickles, 164frittatas, best bets for, 239frother, handheld. See whipping wand,

handheldfroths, best bets for, 312Frozen Cheddar-Cheese Powder, 53Frozen Crème-Fraîche and Pine-Nut Cream,

54Frozen White “Truffle,” 198fructose

Compressed Muscat Grapes, 196Dungeness Crab and Apple Roulade, 281Hot Banana Gel, 280Hot Green Apple Gel, 280Lychee and Lime Soda, 315Melon Water, 31Meyer Lemonade, 31Orange Soda, 62Pink Grapefruit Confit, 146Pressure-Cooked Polenta with Strawberry

Marinara, 214Strawberry Consommé, 32Strawberry Milk Shake, 62Yuzu and Kumquat Marmalade, 181

fruits. See also citrus fruits; specific fruitsacid concentrations of, 23acidities of, 278carbonating, 62–63chips using, best bets for, 162compressed and impregnated, 195–199

best bets for, 195cooking sous vide in sugar syrup until

tender, 146best bets for, 146


dehydrating, 185–187best bets for, 185formulas for, 186fruits and vegetables, best bets for, 185

freeze-drying, 58, 188–190best bets for, 188prefreezing temperature for, 59

heat-treated, best bets for, 183for lowering pH, 22purees of, cooking sous vide for making,

144–145best bets for, 144

funnel. See depositing funnel; separatory funnel

GGagnaire, Pierre, Green Olive Meringue

recipe, 339game broth, best bets for, 14–15game stock, aromatics for, best bets for, 8garlic

cooking sous vide with fat, best bets for, 143Garlic Confit, 176Garlic Nougatine, 185Green Garlic and Pork Sausage, 127Lamb Garlic Jus in a Jar, 37Pickled Garlic, 174preserving, best bets for, 182puree of, best bets for cooking garlic for,

144seasoning with, 21Soft-Boiled Egg and Garlic Emulsion, 304Spring Garlic Consommé, 44Toasted Garlic Chips, 159Toulousain Garlic Sausage, 126

garum, Pomegranate and Garum Jus, 204gelatin

160 BloomAerated Gruyère, 348for airs, bubbles, and froths, 312Beef Shank Rillette, 87Beef Tenderloin with Jus de Roti, 212Black Olive Puree, 306Blood Orange Foam, 317Bone Marrow Custard, 276Boudin Noir Custard, 239Broiled Tuna Belly with Montpellier

Butter, 298Cauliflower Panna Cotta, 263for coating gels, 269for cold gels, 260Corn Croquetta, 169Corn Foam, 318for crisp edible gels, 229Crispy Corn Pudding, 172Cromesquis, 168Deep-Fried Hollandaise, 305Edamame Sheets, King Crab, Cinnamon

Dashi, 254Farce Royale, 126Flourless Gnocchi, 254for fluid gels, 285Foie Gras Cherries, 270Foie Gras Parfait Spheres, 270Foie Gras Torchon with Beet and Hibis-

cus Glaze, 272Freeze-Dried Beef Gravy Granules, 60Freeze-Dried Carrot Foam, 340Fried Egg Foam, 326Frozen White “Truffle,” 198Grapefruit and Black Pepper, 321Ham Broth, 16Hot Apricot Marshmallow, 334for hot fruit gels, 279for light foams, 316Long Island Iced Tea Gel Shot, 262

gelatin, 160 Bloom (continued)Mackerel with Spicy Tomato Skin, 284Mock Turtle Soup, 48Modernist Burrata, 247Monkfish with Constructed Skin, 95Passion Fruit Jelly, 287Passion Fruit Marshmallow with Chorizo

Powder, 332Pork Tenderloin with Juniper, 69Quinoa and Idiazábal with Bonito Stock

Veil, 281Sea Urchin Tofu, Tokyo Negi, Sesame,

Ponzu, 266for set foams, 330Shaved Foie Gras, 105Shiitake Marmalade, 216Shrimp Cocktail, 80Sour Cream Spaetzle, 252Soy Sauce Cloud, 339for tender edible gels, 229for thick foams, 322for thickening hot liquids, 210Yogurt Foam and Sweet Potato Chips,

329300 Bloom

Chestnut Puffs, 336Olive Oil Noodles, 266

200 Bloom, Edible Wrappers, 230240 Bloom, Halibut in Verbena Bubble, 273

gelatin gels, transglutaminase, best bets for, 252–253

gelato, Pistachio Gelato, 310gellan

high-acylBeet Flexicurd, 296Bone Marrow Custard, 276for coating gels, 269for cold gels, 260Dungeness Crab and Apple Roulade, 281Firm Tofu, 248Halibut Cheek Gel Base, 270for hot fruit gels, 279for hot gels, 274Hot Green Apple Gel, 280Hot Quince Gel, 280Madeira Gelée, 264Salmon Poached in Licorice, 272Shellfish Custard, 276Spaghetti Carbonara, 192

low-acylBoeuf en Gelée, 277Bone Marrow Custard, 276Cauliflower Foam, 326Coarse Fat-Gel Sausage, 136for coating gels, 269Coconut Chutney Foam, 325Creamed Watercress, 56for crisp edible gels, 229Deep-Fried Hollandaise, 305Dill Spheres, 259Everything Bagel Broth, 258Firm Tofu, 248Fizzy Grape Fluid Gel, 289

I N D E X 3 7 7

GUINNESS “PÂTE DE FRUIT” Ggellan, low-acyl (continued)

for fluid gels, 285Foie Gras Cherries, 270Halibut Cheek Gel Base, 270Hot and Cold Tea, 286for hot fruit gels, 279for hot gels, 274Hot Green Apple Gel, 280Hot Quince Gel, 280for light foams, 316Madeira Gelée, 264Onion Fluid Gel, 288Parmesan “Polenta,” 288Razor Clam “Takoyaki,” 171Salmon Poached in Licorice, 272Shellfish Custard, 276Spaghetti Carbonara, 192for spherification, 290Squid-Ink Fluid Gel, 259Suet Mousseline, 325for thick foams, 322

gels. See coating gels; cold gels; egg gels; fluid gels; gelatin gels; hot gels; methylcellulose gum gels; starch gels; transglutaminase gels

geoduck clamsbest bets for cooking, 83Geoduck with Seawater Foam, 314

geosmin, 286gin, infusing flavors into liquids with, 24ginger

Ginger Cola, 311infusing flavor into liquids from, 20, 27Tuna Ribbons with Ginger Marinade, 116

glasses, produce dehydrating formulas for, 186Glazed Pearl Onion, 140Glazed White Carrot, 139glazes

Banyuls Glaze, 38Constructed Red Wine Glaze, 24Glazed Carrot, 25Glazed Oxtail, 90Squash Glaze, 39

Glice. See mono- and diglyceridesglucono delta-lactone

Cocoa Nib Curd, 246Silken Tofu, 246for tofu, 245

glucosefor brittle edible films, 229Grapefruit and Black Pepper, 321Shaved Foie Gras, 105

glucose syrup DE 40for airs, bubbles, and froths, 312Bacon Chip, 104BBQ Caramels, 231Boudin Noir Bread Pudding, 242Cappuccino Foam, 315Confit Egg-Yolk Puree, 288Creamed Watercress, 56Dried Cherry and Hazelnut Nougatine, 230Edible Prune Coals, 347Frozen Crème-Fraîche and Pine-Nut

Cream, 54

glucose syrup DE 40 (continued)Garlic Nougatine, 185Green Olive Meringue, 339Guinness “Pâte de Fruit,” 265Mozzarella Powder, 53Olive Oil Gummy Worms, 267Onion Arlette, 231Pistachio Puree, 57Scallop Mochi, 345for set foams, 330Sour Rhubarb Sorbet, 54Sunny-Side Up “Eggs,” 268for thickening hot liquids, 210

glycerinDairy-Free Whipped Cream, 326Edible Wrappers, 230Lemon Strips, 228for tender edible gels, 229

glycerin monostearateFrankfurter, 130in frankfurters, 129Pistachio Gelato, 310

gnocchiFlourless Gnocchi, 254Idiazábal Gnocchi, 258

Goan Curry Sauce, 224goat cheese

Goat Cheese Dumplings, 246Herbed Cheese Spread, 227

goat milk, Goat Milk Ricotta, 248gold leaf sheets, Mock Turtle Soup, 48gold powder, Frozen White “Truffle,” 198Gong Bao Chicken, 119goose. See also poultry

cooking sous vide, best bets for, 71gooseberries

acidity of, 278for lowering pH, 22

Gouda cheeseCheese in a Tube, 300Mac and Cheese, 192

Goulash Broth, 19grains. See also specific grains

cooking under pressure, best bets for, 149freeze-drying, prefreezing temperature for,

59granita, Passion Fruit Granita, 50grapefruit. See also citrus fruits

acidity of, 278Eggless Citrus Curd, 307Enzyme-Treated Pink Grapefruit, 182Grapefruit and Black Pepper, 321Grapefruit-Cured Salmon, 107for lowering pH, 22Pink Grapefruit Confit, 146

grapesacidity of, 278Compressed Muscat Grapes, 196compressing/impregnating, best bets for,


138Fizzy Grape Fluid Gel, 289

grapes (continued)freeze-drying, best bets for, 188preserving, best bets for, 182Shigoku Oyster with Fizzy Grapes, Fresh

Wasabi, and Miso Powder, 63White Grape Syrup, 213

gravyFreeze-Dried Beef Gravy Granules, 60Red-Eye Gravy, 225Thanksgiving Turkey Gravy, 204

Green Asparagus and Morels with Asparagus Jus, 33

green beansFresh Bean Salad, 141frying naked, best bets for, 159preserving, best bets for, 182

green cabbage, in Sauerkraut, 177Green Garlic and Pork Sausage, 127Green Mango and Cashew Salad, 223green olives

Green Olive Meringue, 339Liquid Pimento Olive, 294Olive Marmalade, 243

Green Papaya Pickle, 180Green Pea Wafer, 186Green Pea Yuba, 249greengage, acidity of, 278greens. See also specific greens

leafy, best bets for microwaving, 157tender, freeze-drying, 58

Gremolata Crisp, 346grilling

barbecuing vs., 49Smoked Octopus, 123Sous Vide Octopus, 85Yakitori, 115

grouse, cooking sous vide, best bets for, 71Gruyère cheese

Aerated Gruyère, 348Cheesy Whip, 301Gruyère Custard, 275Gruyère Soufflé, 340Gruyère Spheres, 293Ham and Cheese Omelet, 240in Siphoned Soufflé à la Lorraine, 338Whipped Cheese, 317

guar gumAged Rare Beef Jus, 216Frozen Crème-Fraîche and Pine-Nut

Cream, 54for hot gels, 274for light foams, 316Low-Fat Chicken Sausage, 136Sunny-Side Up “Eggs,” 268for thickening cold liquids, 211Yuzu and Kumquat Marmalade, 181

guava, acidity of, 278guinea hen. See also poultry

cooking sous vide, best bets for, 71leg of, cooking sous vide, best bets for, 82Sous Vide Guinea Hen, 83

Guinness “Pâte de Fruit,” 265


GUM ARABICGgum arabic

Chilled Chicken-Noodle Soup, 311Crystallized Rose Petals, 187Edible Prune Coals, 347Ginger Cola, 311Meyer Lemonade, 31Olive Oil Gummy Worms, 267Orange Soda, 62for thickening hot liquids, 210

gum tragacanthfor thickening cold liquids, 211for thickening hot liquids, 210

gummy worms, Olive Oil Gummy Worms, 267

gums. See specific kinds of gums

Hhake, cooking sous vide, best bets for, 74halibut

cooking sous vide, best bets for, 74Halibut Brandade, 112Halibut in Verbena Bubble, 273Lutefisk, 114Salted Halibut, 112

halibut cheekscooking sous vide, best bets for, 74Crispy Halibut Cheek, 165Halibut Cheek Gel Base, 270

ham. See also jamón Ibérico; prosciuttoBlackstrap Molasses Country Ham, 110cold-smoking, best bets for, 120Cured Ham Broth, 18fresh, best bets for cooking, 86Ham and Cheese Omelet, 240Ham Consommé with Melon Beads, 211

ham and cheese sausage, best bets for, 128–129ham broth

best bets for, 14–15Cured Ham Broth, 18Ham Broth, 16

hamachi, cooking sous vide, best bets for, 74Hamburger Bun, 334hamburgers

best bets for, 123grinding meat for, 123

Hanger Steak Tartare, 65hanging. See air-dryingHay-Smoked Chicken Crown, 122hazelnut oil

Broccoli and Hazelnut-Oil Puree, 56Hazelnut Oil Extract, 26infusing flavor into liquids from, 27

hazelnutsCentrifuged Roasted-Hazelnut Oil, 41Dried Cherry and Hazelnut Nougatine, 230Foie Gras and Hazelnut Ganache, 109Hazelnut “Cream,” 310

hearts of palm, cooking sous vide until tender, best bets for, 139

Heather-Smoked Sturgeon, 122Heather-Smoked Sturgeon Rillettes, 205heat-treated fruit, best bets for, 183herbs. See also specific herbs

freeze-drying, best bets for, 188frying by microwaving, best bets for, 157Herbed Cheese Spread, 227Herb-Embedded Pasta Veil, 191

hibiscus flowers, Foie Gras Torchon with Beet and Hibiscus Glaze, 272

high-acyl gellan. See gellan, high-acylhigh-methoxyl (HM) pectin. See pectin, high-

methoxylHokkaido squash


puree of, best bets for cooking squash for, 144

hollandaise sauceDeep-Fried Hollandaise, 305Sous Vide Instant Hollandaise, 305

hominy, Shrimp and Grits, 190homogenizer. See rotor-stator homogenizerHon Dashi, 15honey

Edible Soap Bar with Honey Bubbles, 314Pecorino with Truffle Honey on Cedar, 244to preserve color and flavor of fresh juice,

31Saffron Honey Foam, 314Spiced Honey Glass, 230

honeycomb tripe, cooking sous vide, best bets for, 96

honeydew melons, Compressed Melon Terrine, 196

honshimeji mushrooms, Compressed Dill-Pickled Vegetables, 178

Horchata (Chufa Milk), 228Horchata Foam, 316Horseradish Foam, 327Hot and Cold Tea, 286Hot Apricot Marshmallow, 334Hot Banana Gel, 280Hot Butter Foam, 324Hot Egg Mayonnaise, 303hot gels, 274–281

best bets for, 274fruit, best bets for, 279fruit and vegetable, 278–281textures of, 274

Hot Green Apple Gel, 280hot liquids, thickening, best bets for, 210Hot Orange Gel, 279Hot Quince Gel, 280hot-smoking

Beef Cheek Pastrami, 121best bets for, 120Frankfurter, 130Heather-Smoked Sturgeon, 122Smoked Potato Confit, 184

House Barbecue Sauce, 220House Bitters, 27House-Cured Bacon, 107Humm, Daniel, Sous Vide Instant Hollandaise

recipe, 305

I N D E X 3 7 9

JUS JIice cream

Aerated Coffee Ice Cream, 349freeze-drying, 58

prefreezing temperature for, 59overrun in, 349

ice-water bathAerated Foie Gras, 348Beef Shank Rillette, 87Braised Short Ribs, 90Braised Veal Foreshank, 89Compressed Dill-Pickled Vegetables, 178Compressed Muscat Grapes, 196Crispy Sweetbreads, 100Deviled Eggs, 233Farce Royale, 126Fizzy Grape Fluid Gel, 289Fried Green Tomatoes, 168Frozen Cheddar-Cheese Powder, 53Green Garlic and Pork Sausage, 127Green Tea Cake, 333Hanger Steak Tartare, 65Hot and Cold Tea, 286Liquid Center Duck Egg, 232Onion Fluid Gel, 288Oyster Escabeche, 81Parmesan “Polenta,” 288Pink Grapefruit Confit, 146Pork Tenderloin with Juniper, 69Potato Beignets with Caviar, 283Potato Salad, 140Ramen Vegetables, 61Razor Clam with Sauce Verte, 85Red Wine Cabbage, 147Sea Urchin Tartar Sauce, 303Shigoku Oyster with Fizzy Grapes, Fresh

Wasabi, and Miso Powder, 63Sour Cream Spaetzle, 252Sous Vide Glazed Pearl Onion, 138Sous Vide Lentils, 142Sous Vide Mussel Juice, 37Sous Vide Mussels, 79Sous Vide Octopus, 85Sous Vide Pork Belly, 88Sous Vide Sole with Bergamot Sabayon, 319Steamed Live Spot Prawn, 81Thickened Oil, 306Tomato Confit, 179Two-Meter Parmesan Spaghetto, 262Whipped Yogurt Crisps, 333

Idiazábal cheeseIdiazábal Gnocchi, 258Quinoa and Idiazábal with Bonito Stock

Veil, 281immersion blender. See blender, immersionimpregnating produce, 195–199

best bets for, 195Indies Spice Blend, 48infusing flavors

into fats, 28–30best bets for, 28

infusing flavors (continued)into liquids, 20–26, 151

with alcohol, 26best bets for, 20

innards. See offal; specific organ meatsInsta Cure No. 1

in basic pink brine, 101in basic sweet cure, 102in basic wet cure, 102in corned beef cure, 102Farce Royale, 126Fast-Cured Pepperoni, 135Foie Gras and Hazelnut Ganache, 109Foie Gras Parfait, 104Foie Gras Parfait Spheres, 270Foie Gras Torchon, 104Frankfurter, 130in frankfurters, 129House-Cured Bacon, 107in mortadella, 129in pink salt rub, 102Rare Beef Sausage, 137

Insta Cure No. 2Blackstrap Molasses Country Ham, 110Cured Beef Tenderloin “Bresaola Style,”

111Saucisson Sec, 134

Instant Crème Fraîche, 227Instant Swiss Meringue, 323Instant Tofu Noodles, 283Invincible Vinaigrette, 306iota carrageenan. See carrageenan, iotaisomalt

Bacon Chip, 104Bacon Jam, 304Beet Flexicurd, 296Beet Meringue, 335Corn Bread, 256for crisp edible gels, 229Crystallized Rose Petals, 187Dried Cherry and Hazelnut Nougatine,

230Frozen Crème-Fraîche and Pine-Nut

Cream, 54Garlic Nougatine, 185Green Tea Cake, 333Guinness “Pâte de Fruit,” 265Microwaved Pistachio Sponge Cake, 333Onion Arlette, 231Onion Sablé, 188Pink Grapefruit Confit, 146for set foams, 330Shaved Foie Gras, 105Sous Vide Berry Juice, 32for thick foams, 322Whipped Yogurt Crisps, 333Zucchini Blossom Beignets, 341

Italian sausageItalian Sausage, 130sweet, best bets for, 124–125

Iuzzini, JohnnyBeet Flexicurd recipe, 296Green Tea Cake recipe, 333

Jjaccarding, 114, 118jalapeño chips using, best bets for, 162jam, Bacon Jam, 304Jamón Ibérico, Ham Broth, 16Japanese flavor combinations, 23Japanese rotary slicer, Yogurt Foam and Sweet

Potato Chips, 329Japanese stock


jasmine essential oil, Apricot and Jasmine Puree, 217

Jerusalem artichokescooking sous vide until tender, best bets for,

139frying naked, best bets for, 159Jerusalem Artichoke Pudding, 202Pickled Jerusalem Artichokes, 178puree of, best bets for, 55

jicama, acidity of, 278John Dory, cooking sous vide, best bets for, 74juice. See also specific fruits and vegetables

additives to preserve color and flavor of, 31juicer, Champion-style. See Champion-style

juicerjuniper berries

infusing flavor into liquids from, 20Juniper Brine, 109

jus, 34–41best bets for, 34–35Centrifuged Pea Juice, 41Clam Juice, 36Jus de la Presse, 34Jus Gras, 310Lamb Garlic Jus in a Jar, 37Mushroom Jus, 37Root Vegetable Jus, 36Sous Vide Beef Juice, 40Sous Vide Mussel Juice, 37Sous Vide Prawn Jus, 39Sous Vide Rare Beef Jus, 40Sous Vide Vegetable Jus, 36Tagine Base, 39Toasted Oat Jus, 38


KABOCHA SQUASHKKkabocha squash


cooking sous vide with fat, best bets for, 143

puree of, best bets for cooking squash for, 144

Kalbi Flank Steak, 114Kamozawa, Aki

Aerated Gruyère recipe, 348Compressed Melon Terrine recipe, 196fast hot-spring egg recipe, 232Goat Cheese Dumplings recipe, 246Modernist Béchamel recipe, 202Pasta Marinara recipe, 193Pulled Mushroom recipe, 197Whipped Yogurt Crisps recipe, 333

Kanpachi Sashimi with Citrus Foam, 313Kansas City Barbecue Sauce, 220Kansas Rub, 49kaolin clay

Clay Potatoes, 199Sous Vide Veal Sweetbreads, 99Spiced Ash, 206

kappa carrageenan. See carrageenan, kappaKeller, Thomas

Cauliflower Panna Cotta recipe, 263, 276Curry Oil recipe, 30Salmon Tartare Cornets recipe, 67Tomato Powder recipe, 157

Kentucky Barbecue Sauce, 219Kerala Curry Sauce, 224ketchup, Mushroom Ketchup, 217kidneys

cock. See cock’s kidneysmammal, cooking sous vide, best bets for,

96soaking step for cooking, 97

kielbasa, best bets for, 124–125kimchi

consommé using, best bets for, 42–43Kimchi, 175

Kinch, Davidon aging of turbot or sole, 76Beef and Oyster Tartare recipe, 65Beef Cheek Pastrami recipe, 121Corn Croquetta recipe, 169Corn Custard recipe, 256Corn Pudding recipe, 256Turbot with Onion and Marrow Broth

recipe, 76king trumpet mushrooms, Pulled Mushroom,

197kiwi


195kminkowa, best bets for, 124–125Knot Foie, 264

kohlrabicooking sous vide, best bets for, 147cooking sous vide until tender, best bets for,

139puree of, best bets for cooking kohlrabi for,

144Koji-Aji

Beef Tenderloin with Jus de Roti, 212Crimini in Amber, 271

konjac gumAerated Foie Gras, 348Chestnut Cream, 328Knot Foie, 264Mushroom Jus, 37in rice flour pasta, 191for thickening cold liquids, 211for thickening hot liquids, 210Truffle Jus, 212

kudzu root starchIdiazábal Gnocchi, 258Peanut “Tofu,” 257thickening with, best bets for, 200

kumquats. See also citrus fruitsYuzu and Kumquat Marmalade, 181

kuri squashBraised Pine Nuts with Winter Squash, 155cooking sous vide until tender, best bets for,

139puree of, best bets for cooking squash for,

144kuzu root starch. See kudzu root starch

Llactic acid

Crispy Dosa, 181Fast-Cured Pepperoni, 135Goat Milk Ricotta, 248Instant Crème Fraîche, 227for lowering pH, 22for paneer, 245for ricotta cheese, 245for spherification, 290Spray-Dried Buttermilk, 59Watermelon Rind Kimchi, 175Whipped Butter, 329

lactose, Clay Potatoes, 199Laiskonis, Michael, Chili Pearls recipe, 265Laksa Broth, 17lamb

Braised Lamb Shoulder, 88cooking sous vide, best bets for, 68Lamb Garlic Jus in a Jar, 37Rack of Lamb, 68shank of, best bets for cooking, 86shoulder of, best bets for cooking, 86tartare, best bets for, 64

lamb stockaromatics for, best bets for, 8best bets for, 6–7

lamb sweetbreads, cooking sous vide, best bets for, 96

lambda carrageenan. See carrageenan, lambdalangoustines. See also prawns

cooking sous vide, best bets for, 79tartare, best bets for, 64

lap cheong, best bets for, 132–133L-cysteine, Hamburger Bun, 334leathers, dehydrating formulas for, 186lecithin. See soy lecithinleeks

acidity of, 278cooking sous vide until tender, best bets for,

139dehydrating, best bets for, 185Sous Vide and Pressure-Cooked Veal

Breast with Bulbous Vegetables, 91legumes. See also specific legumes

cooking under pressure, best bets for, 149freeze-drying, prefreezing temperature for,

59lemon verbena

Halibut in Verbena Bubble, 273infusing flavor into liquids from, 20Lemon Verbena and Peach Froth, 318

lemongrass, infusing flavor into liquids from, 20

lemons. See also citrus fruitsacidity of, 278Citrus Air, 312Citrus Spice, 52Deep-Fried Hollandaise, 305Eggless Citrus Curd, 307Fluke Ceviche, 117

I N D E X 3 8 1

MANGOES Mlemons (continued)

Kanpachi Sashimi with Citrus Foam, 313Lemon Egg-Yolk Fluid Gel, 287Lemon Strips, 228for lowering pH, 22Meyer Lemonade, 31Pickled Lemon, 179Preserved Lemons, 174for set foams, 330Sous Vide Lemon Curd, 304Sous Vide Lemon Herb Oil, 29zest of, infusing flavor into liquids from, 20

lentilspuffed snacks made from, best bets for, 342Sous Vide Lentils, 142

lettuceacidity of, 278compressing/impregnating, best bets for,

195freeze-drying, 58

best bets for, 188Smoked Lettuce, 195

licoriceCaramelized Carrot Soup, 150infusing flavor into liquids from, 20Licorice Powder, 52Salmon Poached in Licorice, 272

Liebrandt, Paul, Foie Gras Torchon with Beet and Hibiscus Glaze recipe, 272

limes. See also citrus fruitsacidity of, 278Carbonated Mojito Spheres, 291Citrus Air, 312Citrus Spice, 52Eggless Citrus Curd, 307Fluke Ceviche, 117for lowering pH, 22Lychee and Lime Soda, 315

Ling Cod with Bergamot-Infused Milk, 75Liquid Center Duck Egg, 232liquid nitrogen

to adhere coating gels, 269Buttermilk Biscuits, 336Dill Spheres, 259Foie Gras Torchon with Beet and Hibiscus

Glaze, 272Frozen White “Truffle,” 198Pork Loin Roast, 94puffing skin on a pork roast, 93Shrimp and Grits, 190Ultracrisp Chicken Crown, 93

Liquid Pimento Olive, 294liquid smoke

BBQ Caramels, 231House Barbecue Sauce, 220Smoked Egg Crème Caramel, 244Smoked Lettuce, 195

liquidscold, thickening, best bets for, 211hot, thickening, best bets for, 210infusing flavors into. See infusing flavors,

into liquidsLM pectin. See pectin, low-methoxyl

lobstercooking sous vide, best bets for, 79freeze-drying, 58Jus de la Presse, 3419th-Century-Style Lobster with Sherry

and Cocoa, 80Poached Lobster, 296Poached Lobster Tail, 81Salted, Freeze-Dried Lobster, 60tail, brining, best bets for, 103

lobster mushroomscooking sous vide until tender, best bets for,

139Lobster Mushroom Confit, 144

locust bean gumAerated Gruyère, 348Agar Carbonara, 275Cauliflower Foam, 326Chili Pearls, 265Coconut-Lobster Emulsion, 319for cold gels, 260Herbed Cheese Spread, 227Hot Banana Gel, 280for hot fruit gels, 279for hot gels, 274Hot Orange Gel, 279Pistachio Gelato, 310“Poached” Egg, 292Prosciutto and Melon “Raw Egg,” 295Strawberry Milk Shake, 62Sunny-Side Up “Eggs,” 268for thickening cold liquids, 211for thickening hot liquids, 210Two-Meter Parmesan Spaghetto, 262

Long Island Iced Tea Gel Shot, 262lotus root

chips using, best bets for, 162Spot Prawn and Lotus Root Tempura with

Smoked White Soy Sauce, 164low-acyl gellan. See gellan, low-acylLow-Fat Chicken Sausage, 136Low-Fat “Cream,” 226low-methoxyl pectin. See pectin, low-

methoxylLutefisk, 114lychees

acidity of, 278Lychee and Lime Soda, 315preserving, best bets for, 182Shaved Foie Gras, 105

lye. See sodium hydroxide

MMac and Cheese, 192mackerel

cooking sous vide, best bets for, 74Mackerel with Spicy Tomato Skin, 284tartare, best bets for, 64

Madeira wineinfusing flavors into liquids with, 24Madeira Gelée, 264

Maillard reaction, 119acceleration by baking soda, 203

Malaysian Aromatic Oil, 30malic acid

Apple Cider Consommé, 43Beef Tenderloin with Jus de Roti, 212Beet Flexicurd, 296Compressed Muscat Grapes, 196Dungeness Crab and Apple Roulade, 281Elder Flower Vinegar, 23Hot and Cold Tea, 286Hot Green Apple Gel, 280Hot Quince Gel, 280for lowering pH, 22Lychee and Lime Soda, 315Passion Fruit Brown Butter Fluid Gel, 286Passion Fruit–White Soy Sauce Vinaigrette,

23to preserve color and flavor of fresh juice,

31Prosciutto and Melon “Raw Egg,” 295Sour Rhubarb Sorbet, 54Sous Vide Instant Hollandaise, 305Strawberry Consommé, 32Strawberry Gazpacho, 33White Grape Syrup, 213

malt syrup, Spot Prawn and Lotus Root Tem-pura with Smoked White Soy Sauce, 164

malt vinegar, Malt Vinegar Powder, 206maltodextrin

DE 8, Lemon Strips, 228DE 9, Spray-Dried Blood Orange Juice, 59DE 19, Creamed Watercress, 56

Maltrin M100Green Olive Meringue, 339Gruyère Soufflé, 340for light foams, 316for set foams, 330Siphoned Soufflé à la Lorraine, 338Sous Vide Sole with Bergamot Sabayon,

319thickening with, best bets for, 201Whipped Cheese, 317Whipped Yogurt Crisps, 333

Mandarin Leather, 187mangoes

acidity of, 278Aerated Mango Sorbet, 347cooking sous vide until tender, best bets for,

138dehydrating, best bets for, 185Green Mango and Cashew Salad, 223


MANGOESMmangoes (continued)

preserving, best bets for, 182puree of, best bets for cooking mangoes for,

144mannitol, Frozen White “Truffle,” 198Manson, Sam, simulation of nature in dishes

of, 208Maple Vinegar Gastrique, 216Marchesi, Gualtiero, Risotto Milanese recipe,

153Marcona Almond Butter Paste, 205Marinated Spaghetti Squash, 26marinating

baking soda technique for, 119Marinated Spaghetti Squash, 26pH level of marinade for, 114pressure-, Yakitori, 115vacuum tumbling to reduce time required

for, 114marmalades

Olive Marmalade, 243Rib Eye with Cherry Mustard Marmalade

and Porcini, 70Shiitake Marmalade, 216Yuzu and Kumquat Marmalade, 181

Marmite, seasoning with, 21“Marmite broth,” best bets for, 14–15Masala Curry Sauce, 225Mason jars. See canning jarsMatsuhisa, Nobu, Miso-Cured Black Cod

recipe, 106Maximin, Jacques, Broccoli and Hazelnut-Oil

Puree recipe, 56mayonnaise

Basic Mayonnaise, 303Eggless Mayonnaise, 309Hot Egg Mayonnaise, 303

McGee, Harold, Mac and Cheese recipe, 192meat slicer

Puffed Crab Cracker, 344Tapioca Starch Cracker, 343

meats. See also specific kinds of meatfreeze-drying, prefreezing temperature for,

59organ. See offal; specific organ meatstender, cooking sous vide, 68–70

best bets for, 68tough cuts of, 86–92

best bets for cooking, 86pressure-cooking, 91–92

Melon Caviar, 291melons. See also specific kinds of melons

acidity of, 278chips using, best bets for, 162compressing/impregnating, best bets for,

195Ham Consommé with Melon Beads, 211Melon Caviar, 291Melon Water, 31preserving, best bets for, 182Prosciutto and Melon “Raw Egg,” 295

Memphis Barbecue Sauce, 221Memphis Rub, 49

Meneau, Marc, Cromesquis recipe, 168merguez, best bets for, 124–125meringues

Beet Meringue, 335Green Olive Meringue, 339Instant Swiss Meringue, 323

mesophilic starter, Fresh Cheese Curds, 247Methocel. See methylcellulosemethylcellulose

A15CInstant Tofu Noodles, 283for methylcellulose gels, 282Onion Rings, 170

E4MCorn Croquetta, 169for crisp edible gels, 229Crispy Cream Cheese, 229for hot fruit gels, 279for methylcellulose gels, 282Pork Loin Roast, 94Potato Beignets with Caviar, 283Sweet Pea Clusters, 284

F50Horseradish Foam, 327Hot Apricot Marshmallow, 334Mackerel with Spicy Tomato Skin, 284Milk Foam, 317for set foams, 330for thick foams, 322

F450, for methylcellulose gels, 282K100, Whipped Yogurt Crisps, 333K100M

for fruit and vegetable chips, 162as liquid for breading, 167for methylcellulose gels, 282puffing skin on a pork roast, 93

K700MPork Trotter Beignet, 169Razor Clam “Takoyaki,” 171

SGA 150for cornmeal batter, 163for methylcellulose gels, 282Pâte à Choux, 341for tender edible gels, 229

SGA 7CGreen Tea Cake, 333for methylcellulose gels, 282

methylcellulose gum gels, 282–284best bets for, 282properties and applications of, 282

Meyer Lemonade, 31microwaving

Aerated Foie Gras, 348Artichoke and Potato Chaat, 158Centrifuged Carotene Butter, 40Crispy Beef Strands, 108dehydrating by, 157films for, 157Green Tea Cake, 333Gremolata Crisp, 346Knot Foie, 264Microwaved Beef Jerky, 108Microwaved Pistachio Sponge Cake, 333

microwaving (continued)Microwaved Tilapia with Scallions and

Ginger, 92Microwave-Fried Parsley, 157Parmesan Nuggets, 206Popcorn Pudding, 287of puffed snacks, 342Scallop Mochi, 345Sichuan Bok Choy, 158Tomato Powder, 157of vegetables, 157–158

best bets for, 157milk. See also milks

Bone Marrow Custard, 276Fresh Cheese Curds, 247goat, Goat Milk Ricotta, 248Gruyère Custard, 275Ling Cod with Bergamot-Infused Milk, 75Milk Foam, 317Milk Skin with Grilled Salsify and Truffle

Puree, 250in Parmesan Crème Brûlée, 237Shellfish Custard, 276Smoked Egg Crème Caramel, 244Stable Latte Foam, 350

milk curd, basic, best bets for, 245milk frother, handheld. See whipping wand,

handheldmilk shake whipper, Cappuccino Foam, 315milks, 226–228

best bets for, 226Horchata (Chufa Milk), 228Soy Milk, 227Toasted Almond Milk, 228Toasted Rice Milk, 228

milling. See also colloid millof nut butters, 54

mint, freeze-drying, best bets for, 188mirin, Sous Vide Ponzu, 22miso

eggs cured with, best bets for, 234Miso-Cured Black Cod, 106Miso-Cured Egg Sheets, 236seasoning with, 21Shigoku Oyster with Fizzy Grapes, Fresh

Wasabi, and Miso Powder, 63mochi

Pen Shell Clam, Pluot, Myoga, Scallop Mochi, 32

Scallop Mochi, 345Mock Turtle Soup, 48Modernist Béchamel, 202Modernist Burrata, 247Modernist Fried Chicken, 166molasses

Blackstrap Molasses Country Ham, 110Molasses Butter, 29

monkfishcooking sous vide, best bets for, 74Monkfish with Constructed Skin, 95Sous Vide Monkfish Pavé, 77

monkfish liver, Ankimo Torchon, 97

I N D E X 3 8 3

N-ZORBIT M Nmono- and diglycerides

Black Olive Puree, 306Broiled Tuna Belly with Montpellier Butter,

298Dairy-Free Whipped Cream, 326Eggless Mayonnaise, 309Fried Chicken Sausage, 137Thickened Oil, 306

monosodium glutamateAged Rare Beef Jus, 216The Colonel’s Fried Chicken, 165Crispy Boiled Peanuts, 151seasoning with, 21

Monterey Jack cheese, Cheese in a Tube, 300morels, Green Asparagus and Morels with

Asparagus Jus, 33Moroccan Batbout Flatbread, 338mortadella, best bets for, 128–129Morton Tender Quick, in slow-curing rub,

102mousseline, Celery Root Mousseline, 57mozzarella cheese

fresh, how to make, 247Mozzarella Balloons, 249Mozzarella Powder, 53

Mugaritz. See also Aduriz, Andoni LuisVegetable Coals recipe, 197

Mughal Curry Sauce, 222mulberries, acidity of, 278mung bean puffed snacks, best bets for, 342Murata, Yoshihiro

Hon Dashi recipe, 15Peanut “Tofu” recipe, 257Sea Urchin Tofu, Tokyo Negi, Sesame,

Ponzu recipe, 266Mushroom Broth, 19mushroom jus

best bets for, 34–35Mushroom and Bacon Cappuccino, 320Mushroom Jus, 37

mushrooms. See also specific kinds of mushrooms


139dehydrating, best bets for, 185dried

best bets for cooking for puree, 144infusing flavor into liquids from, 20

freeze-drying, best bets for, 188fresh, best bets for cooking for puree, 144Mushroom Ketchup, 217preserving, best bets for, 182puree of, best bets for, 55

musk ox tartare, best bets for, 64Muslim Curry Sauce, 223mussel jus, best bets for, 34–35mussels

cooking sous vide, best bets for, 79Mussels in Mussel Juice Spheres, 294Sous Vide Mussel Juice, 37Sous Vide Mussels, 79

mustardMustard Vinaigrette, 308Rib Eye with Cherry Mustard Marmalade

and Porcini, 70mustard oil, Preserved Pear in Mustard Oil,

173mustard seeds

Aromatic Alsatian Mustard, 176cooking under pressure, best bets for, 149preserving, best bets for, 182pressure-cooking, 151

Mycryo spray-dried cocoa butter, Aerated Chocolate, 349

myoga, Pen Shell Clam, Pluot, Myoga, Scallop Mochi, 32

Nnaked frying, 159–161

best bets for, 159nanoemulsions, 311napa cabbage

acidity of, 278Kimchi, 175

natto, seasoning with, 21navy beans, Baked Beans, 149nectarines


138nettles, purees of, best bets for cooking nettles

for, 144nigari granules, for tofu, 24519th-Century-Style Lobster with Sherry and

Cocoa, 80noodles. See also pasta

freeze-drying, 58Norén, Nils

Beet Juice-Fed Oysters recipe, 119Centrifuged Roasted-Hazelnut Oil recipe,

41Parmesan “Polenta” recipe, 288Pectinase-Steeped Fries recipe, 160Pressure-Cooked Egg Toast recipe, 241

North Carolina (Eastern Region) Barbecue Sauce, 221

North Carolina (Lexington-Style) Barbecue Sauce, 219

Novation Prima 600, thickening with, best bets for, 201

NovoShape PME enzyme, Sous Vide Cucum-ber Pickles, 176

Nukazake, 175nut butters

milling, 54for set foams, 330

nutmeg, infusing flavor into liquids from, 20, 27

Nutrifos 088Coarse Fat-Gel Sausage, 136Farce Royale, 126Fried Chicken Sausage, 137Green Garlic and Pork Sausage, 127Rare Beef Sausage, 137Salmon Custard, 253

nuts. See also specific kinds of nutspressure-cooking

best bets for, 149to soften, 222

N-Zorbit MAlmond Polenta, 207Bacon Powder Squares, 206for brittle edible films, 229Caesar Salad, 189Cashew Halvah, 207Cheese Puffs, 344Corn Pebbles, 209Dashimaki Tamago, 241


N-ZORBIT MNN-Zorbit M (continued)

Edible Earth, 208Freeze-Dried Carrot Foam, 340Green Olive Meringue, 339Gruyère Soufflé, 340Guinness “Pâte de Fruit,” 265Licorice Powder, 52Malt Vinegar Powder, 206Miso-Cured Black Cod, 106Parmesan Nuggets, 206Passion Fruit Marshmallow with Chorizo

Powder, 332Pistachio Puree, 57Rare Beef Sausage, 137Spiced Ash, 206Spinach Paper, 187thickening with, best bets for, 201Vanilla Olive Oil Powder, 207

Ooats

puffed, Candied Puffed Oats, 345rolled, for breadings, 167steel-cut

cooking under pressure, best bets for, 149

risotto using, best bets for, 152Sous Vide Clam and Oat Risotto, 154Toasted Oat Jus, 38

octopusbest bets for cooking, 83Smoked Octopus, 123Sous Vide Octopus, 85

offal. See also specific organ meatstender, cooking sous vide, best bets for,

96tough, cooking sous vide, best bets for,

96oils, flavored. See also citrus oil

Clove Oil, 25Crab Oil, 30Curry Oil, 30Malaysian Aromatic Oil, 30Sous Vide Lemon Herb Oil, 29Spiced Chili Oil, 29

okraCrispy Okra, 167preserving, best bets for, 182

Olive Marmalade, 243olive oil

Eggless Mayonnaise, 309Olive Oil Gummy Worms, 267Olive Oil “Mayonnaise,” 309Olive Oil Noodles, 266Olive Oil Spread, 213smoked, best bets for, 183Thickened Oil, 306Vanilla Olive Oil Powder, 207

olives. See also black olives; green olivespreserving, best bets for, 182

omeletsbest bets for, 239Ham and Cheese Omelet, 240Omelet Base, 243

160 Bloom gelatin. See gelatin, 160 Bloomonions

cipollinecooking sous vide until tender, best bets

for, 139Sweet-and-Sour Cipolline Onion, 141

compressing/impregnating, best bets for, 195

dehydrating, best bets for, 185Freeze-Dried Onion Powder, 189freeze-drying, best bets for, 188Onion Arlette, 231Onion Fluid Gel, 288Onion Rings, 170Onion Sablé, 188Onion Stock, 11

onions (continued)pearl


Glazed Pearl Onion, 140preserving, best bets for, 182pressure-cooking with, 150puree of

best bets for, 55best bets for cooking onions for, 144

red, acidity of, 278Siphoned Soufflé à la Lorraine, 338smoked, best bets for, 183soup made from, cooking under pressure,

best bets for, 149Sous Vide and Pressure-Cooked Veal

Breast with Bulbous Vegetables, 91Sous Vide Glazed Pearl Onion, 138Squash Glaze, 39Strawberry Gazpacho, 33sweet

acidity of, 278Autoclaved Onion Soup, 150cooking sous vide until tender, best bets

for, 139“OpenCola,” 311oranges. See also blood oranges; citrus fruits

acidity of, 278Citrus Spice, 52Hot Orange Gel, 279for lowering pH, 22Orange Soda, 62

organ meats. See also offal; specific organ meatsostrich, cooking sous vide, best bets for, 71oven-frying, Combi Oven-Steamed Broccoli,

5ovens. See specific kinds of ovensoverrun, in ice cream, 349oxalic acid, to preserve color and flavor of

fresh juice, 31oxtail

best bets for cooking, 86Boeuf en Gelée, 277Brown Beef Stock, 10Glazed Oxtail, 90Oxtail Consommé, 46Oxtail Pho Broth, 16Pot-au-Feu Consommé, 45

oystersBeef and Oyster Tartare, 65Beet Juice-Fed Oysters, 119Burmese Chickpea Tofu Laksa, 255cold-smoking, best bets for, 120cooking sous vide, best bets for, 79Oyster Beignet, 166Oyster Butter Emulsion, 297Oyster Consommé, 42Oyster Escabeche, 81Oysters with Cava Foam, 327Oysters with Mignonette Air, 313Shigoku Oyster with Fizzy Grapes, Fresh

Wasabi, and Miso Powder, 63tartare, best bets for, 64

I N D E X 3 8 5

PHO BROTH PPPacojet

Aerated Coffee Ice Cream, 349Creamed Watercress, 56Foie Gras and Hazelnut Ganache, 109Frozen Cheddar-Cheese Powder, 53Frozen Crème-Fraîche and Pine-Nut

Cream, 54Goat Milk Ricotta, 248Grapefruit and Black Pepper, 321for grinding frozen liquid before freeze

drying, 59Hanger Steak Tartare, 65for making vegetable purees, 55Mozzarella Powder, 53Pacojet Pea Soup, 53Passion Fruit Granita, 50Pistachio Gelato, 310Pistachio Puree, 57Seafood Paper, 113Sour Rhubarb Sorbet, 54Ultracrisp Chicken Crown, 93

Pad Thai, 193Paella Rice, 153Paella Stock, 9Pain d’Épices Powder, 51paneer, best bets for, 245panna cotta, Cauliflower Panna Cotta, 263papayas

acidity of, 278Green Papaya Pickle, 180preserving, best bets for, 182

papers, dehydrating formulas for making, 186paprika, infusing flavor into liquids from, 20parcooking, of puffed snacks, 342Parmesan cheese

infusing flavor into liquids from, 20Parmesan Crème Brûlée, 237Parmesan Nuggets, 206Parmesan “Polenta,” 288Two-Meter Parmesan Spaghetto, 262

Parmesan water, best bets for, 42–43Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, Agar

Carbonara, 275parsley

Microwave-Fried Parsley, 157Parsley Foam, 313puree of, best bets for, 55

parsnipsacidity of, 278puree of, best bets for, 55

Passard, AlainScallop Tartare recipe, 66Smoked Potatoes with Vin Jaune Sabayon

recipe, 184passion fruit

acidity of, 278dehydrating, best bets for, 185Passion Fruit Brown Butter Fluid Gel, 286Passion Fruit Granita, 50Passion Fruit Jelly, 287

passion fruit (continued)Passion Fruit Marshmallow with Chorizo

Powder, 332Passion Fruit–White Soy Sauce Vinaigrette,

23pasta, 191–195

Buckwheat Dough, 194Cocoa Tajarin, 194doughs for, best bets for, 191freeze-drying, prefreezing temperature for,

59fresh, smoked, best bets for, 183Herb-Embedded Pasta Veil, 191Instant Tofu Noodles, 283Mac and Cheese, 192Olive Oil Noodles, 266Pad Thai, 193Pasta Marinara, 193Ramen Noodles, 194Semolina Pasta, 195Spaghetti Carbonara, 192wheat, dried, best bets for, 342

pasta machine, Scallop Mochi, 345pastis, infusing flavors into liquids with, 24pastrami

beef cheek, hot-smoking, best bets for, 120Beef Cheek Pastrami, 121brisket, hot-smoking, best bets for, 120meat cuts for making, 121Steingarten on, 121

pastry, Pâte à Choux, 341pastry bag, Olive Oil Noodles, 266Pâte à Choux, 341Patterson, Daniel

Grapefruit and Black Pepper recipe, 321poached scrambled eggs recipe, 240

Pea Vine Salad, 222peaches



138Lemon Verbena and Peach Froth, 318preserving, best bets for, 182

peanutsCrispy Boiled Peanuts, 151Pad Thai, 193Peanut “Tofu,” 257

pearsacidity of, 278compressing/impregnating, best bets for,


138cooking under pressure, best bets for, 149dehydrating, best bets for, 185Preserved Pear in Mustard Oil, 173preserving, best bets for, 182puree of, best bets for cooking pears for, 144

peasacidity of, 278Centrifuged Pea Juice, 41

peas (continued)Cinnamon-Scented Pea Juice, 25consommé using, best bets for, 42–43cooking sous vide, best bets for, 147Fresh Bean Salad, 141Green Pea Wafer, 186Green Pea Yuba, 249Pacojet Pea Soup, 53puree of, best bets for, 55Sweet Pea Clusters, 284

pecans, smoked, best bets for, 183pecorino cheese

in Idiazábal Gnocchi, 258Pecorino with Truffle Honey on Cedar, 244smoked, Pecorino with Truffle Honey on

Cedar, 244Pecorino Romano cheese, Poached Apple

with Pecorino Foam, 320pectin

high-methoxylBBQ Caramels, 231for cold gels, 260Cryopoached Green Tea Sour, 332Guinness “Pâte de Fruit,” 265for tender edible gels, 229Yuzu and Kumquat Marmalade, 181

low-methoxylfor brittle edible films, 229for cold gels, 260Compressed Melon Terrine, 196Gruyère Spheres, 293Olive Oil Noodles, 266104, Grapefruit and Black Pepper, 321104 AS, Beet Flexicurd, 296for spherification, 290

Pectinase-Steeped Fries, 160Pectinex

Smash XXLApple Cider Consommé, 43Enzyme-Treated Pink Grapefruit, 182speeding and increasing yield from

centrifuging with, 41Ultra SP-L

Enzyme-Treated Pink Grapefruit, 182Pectinase-Steeped Fries, 160

Pen Shell Clam, Pluot, Myoga, Scallop Mochi, 32

pepperoni, best bets for, 132–133peristaltic pumps, for spherification, 290persimmons


138dehydrating, best bets for, 185

pHbest bets for lowering, 22of fruits and vegetables, 278of marinade, 114raising to accelerate Maillard reaction, 203slow vs. fast fermentation and, 133

pheasant. See also poultrycooking sous vide, best bets for, 71

pho broth, best bets for, 14–15


PHOSPHATESPphosphates. See also disodium phosphate;

polyphosphates; potassium phosphate; sodium hexametaphosphate; sodium phosphate; sodium tripolyphosphate

basic brine using, best bets for, 101in brines or wet cures, 102

phosphoric acid, Orange Soda, 62pickle chips, best bets for, 162pickled eggs, 234

best bets for, 234pickles

Compressed Dill-Pickled Vegetables, 178fermented, formula for, 173Kimchi, 175Nukazake, 175Pickled Bing Cherry, 180Pickled Butternut Squash, 180Pickled Celery Root, 179Pickled Figs, 177Pickled Garlic, 174Pickled Jerusalem Artichokes, 178Pickled Lemon, 179Pickled Quail Eggs, 234Pickled Ramps, 178Pickled Tapioca Pearl, 174salt, formula for, 173sour vinegar, formula for, 173Sous Vide Cucumber Pickles, 176sweet vinegar, formula for, 173Watermelon Rind Kimchi, 175

Piège, Jean-FrançoisSpaghetti Carbonara recipe, 192Steamed Blancmange recipe, 335

pig, suckling, cooking sous vide, best bets for, 68

pigeon. See also poultrycooking sous vide, best bets for, 71leg of

cooking sous vide, best bets for, 82Farce Royale, 126

Pigeon with Shellfish Butter, 72Roast Pigeon Crown, 4Toasted Oat Jus, 38

pigeon blood, Boudin Noir Custard, 239pigeon gizzards, Sous Vide Pigeon Offal, 98pigeon hearts, Sous Vide Pigeon Offal, 98pigeon stock, best bets for, 6–7pig’s blood, Blood Pudding Custard, 298pine buds, infusing flavor into liquids from, 20pine nuts

Braised Pine Nuts with Winter Squash, 155Frozen Crème-Fraîche and Pine-Nut

Cream, 54risotto using, best bets for, 152Shaved Foie Gras, 105smoked, best bets for, 183

pineappleacidity of, 278chips using, best bets for, 162compressing/impregnating, best bets for,


138

pineapple (continued)dehydrating, best bets for, 185Pineapple Glass, 187preserving, best bets for, 182smoked, best bets for, 183

pink brine, basic, best bets for, 101Pink Grapefruit Confit, 146pink salt rub, best bets for, 102pipetting, Edible Wrappers, 230piping bag, Idiazábal Gnocchi, 258pistachios

Boudin Blanc, 131Microwaved Pistachio Sponge Cake, 333Pistachio Consommé, 44Pistachio Gelato, 310Pistachio Puree, 57Warm Potato and Pistachio Pesto Salad,

215plant foods. See also citrus fruits; fruits; root

vegetables; vegetables; specific plant foodscooking under pressure, 149–151

best bets for, 149smoked, 183–184

best bets for, 183plums



138pluots, Pen Shell Clam, Pluot, Myoga, Scallop

Mochi, 32Poached Apple with Pecorino Foam, 320“Poached” Egg, 292Poached Lobster, 296Poached Lobster Tail, 81Point, Fernand, Poulet au Feu d’Enfer recipe,

72Polcyn, Brian, Blackstrap Molasses Country

Ham recipe, 110polenta

instant, for breadings, 167Pressure-Cooked Polenta with Strawberry

Marinara, 214polyglycerol polyricinoleate, Aerated

Chocolate, 349polyphosphates

in coarse-ground sausages, 125for frankfurters, 129shortening presalting time for sausage with,

126polysorbate 80

Constructed Veal Cream, 300Hazelnut “Cream,” 310Mustard Vinaigrette, 308Pistachio Gelato, 310

pomegranatesacidity of, 278Pomegranate and Garum Jus, 204

pommes aligot, best bets for, 148Pommes Pont-Neuf, 160Pommes Soufflées, 342ponzu, Sous Vide Ponzu, 22

Popcorn Pudding, 287porcini mushrooms


Rib Eye with Cherry Mustard Marmalade and Porcini, 70

pork. See also bacon; ham; jamón Ibérico; prosciutto; suckling pig

Banyuls Glaze, 38chops from

brining, best bets for, 103cold-smoking, best bets for, 120

cooking sous vide, best bets for, 68Fast-Cured Pepperoni, 135freeze-drying, 58Green Garlic and Pork Sausage, 127Italian Sausage, 130leg of, curing, best bets for, 103Pork Loin Roast, 94Pork Ribs, 88Pork Tenderloin with Juniper, 69Pressure-Cooked Carnitas, 92Pulled Pork Shoulder, 89ribs from

best bets for cooking, 86cold-smoking, best bets for, 120hot-smoking, best bets for, 120

Saucisson Sec, 134shank of, curing, best bets for, 103shoulder of

best bets for cooking, 86brining, best bets for, 103

Spiced Shellfish Stock, 9tenderloin of, brining, best bets for, 103Toulousain Garlic Sausage, 126Triple Dungeness Crab and Pork Stock

Infusion, 10pork and Banyuls roasting jus, best bets for,

34–35pork belly

best bets for cooking, 86brining, best bets for, 103curing, best bets for, 103hot-smoking, best bets for, 120House-Cured Bacon, 107Sous Vide Pork Belly, 88

pork buttcold-smoking, best bets for, 120hot-smoking, best bets for, 120

pork cheekbest bets for cooking, 86cold-smoking, best bets for, 120Smoked Pork Cheek, 122

pork fatback, Coarse Fat-Gel Sausage, 136pork hocks, best bets for cooking, 86pork jowl, curing, best bets for, 103pork skin

Pork Loin Roast, 94puffing, how to, 93

pork stock, best bets for, 6–7pork trotters

best bets for cooking, 86Pork Trotter Beignet, 169

I N D E X 3 8 7

PUMPKIN Pport wine, infusing flavors into liquids with, 24posset, best bets for, 245potassium carbonate, in alkaline ramen, 191potassium chloride, Sunny-Side Up “Eggs,”

268potassium phosphate, for spherification, 290potato foam, best bets for, 148potato starch

Deep-Fried Custard, 255for fruit and vegetable chips, 162Quail with Apple-Vinegar Emulsion and

Water Chestnuts, 73Restructured Potato Chips, 162thickening with, best bets for, 200

potatoesacidity of, 278Artichoke and Potato Chaat, 158Baked Potato Broth, 19Baked Potato Foam, 324chips using, best bets for, 162Clay Potatoes, 199cooking sous vide with fat, best bets for,

143Flourless Gnocchi, 254mashed, best bets for, 148Pectinase-Steeped Fries, 160Pommes Pont-Neuf, 160Pommes Soufflées, 342Potato Beignets with Caviar, 283Potato Puree, 148, 151Potato Salad, 140puffed snacks made from, best bets for, 342puree of

best bets for, 55, 148best bets for cooking potatoes for, 144Potato Puree, 148roasted, best bets for, 148

Restructured Potato Chips, 162Root Vegetable Risotto, 156smoked, best bets for, 183Smoked Potato Confit, 184Smoked Potatoes with Vin Jaune Sabayon,

184Starch-Infused Fries, 161Starch-Infused Ultrasonic Fries, 161Ultrasonic Fries, 161Warm Potato and Pistachio Pesto Salad,

215pot-au-feu

best bets for, 14–15Pot-au-Feu Consommé, 45

Poulet au Feu d’Enfer, 72poultry. See also specific kinds of poultry

livers of, cooking sous vide, best bets for, 96tender

cooking sous vide, 71–73red, cooking sous vide, best bets for, 71white, cooking sous vide, best bets for, 71

tough, 82–83best bets for cooking, 82

poultry stockaromatics for, best bets for, 8best bets for, 6–7

prawns. See also langoustinescooking sous vide, best bets for, 79Shrimp and Grits, 190Shrimp Cocktail, 80Sous Vide Prawn Jus, 39Spot Prawns with Foie Gras Nage, 307Steamed Live Spot Prawn, 81

pregelatinized starch crackers, best bets for, 342

pregelatinized starch pasteCaramelized Crème Fraîche, 203Olive Oil “Mayonnaise,” 309Olive Oil Noodles, 266Pregelatinized Starch Paste, 200for thick foams, 322

preserved eggs, 234best bets for, 234

Preserved Lemons, 174preserves

Preserved Pear in Mustard Oil, 173sugar, formula for, 173

preserving, of produce, 173–182best bets for, 182formulas for, 173

pressure canner, Fresh Cheese Curds, 247pressure-cooking

Autoclaved Onion Soup, 150Baked Beans, 149with baking soda, 150Banyuls Glaze, 38Braised Pine Nuts with Winter Squash, 155for broths, 15Brown Beef Stock, 10Brown Veal Stock, 11Caramelized Carrot Soup, 150Caramelized Crème Fraîche, 203Crispy Boiled Peanuts, 151Cured Ham Broth, 18Duck Broth with Vanilla and Bay Leaf, 16Eggless Citrus Curd, 307Freeze-Dried Beef Gravy Granules, 60Garlic Confit, 176Ham Broth, 16Hot Quince Gel, 280Lamb Garlic Jus in a Jar, 37for making jus, 35Mandarin Leather, 187Modernist Béchamel recipe, 202Mushroom Broth, 19Mushroom Jus, 37of mustard seeds, 151of nuts, to soften, 222Oxtail Consommé, 46Oxtail Pho Broth, 16Paella Rice, 153Paella Stock, 9Pork Trotter Beignet, 169Pot-au-Feu Consommé, 45Pressure-Cooked Carnitas, 92Pressure-Cooked Egg Toast, 241Pressure-Cooked Polenta with Strawberry

Marinara, 214Pressure-Cooked Sesame Seeds, 151

pressure-cooking (continued)Pressure-Cooked Tarbais Beans, 149Pressure-Cooked Vegetable Risotto, 154Pressure-Cooked White Chicken Stock, 11Puffed Chickpeas, 344puffing skin on a pork roast, 93Ragout of Grains, 156Sauce Vin Jaune, 308Sous Vide and Pressure-Cooked Veal

Breast with Bulbous Vegetables, 91Spiced Shellfish Stock, 9Spring Garlic Consommé, 44for stocks, 6–7, 9–11Toasted Oat Jus, 38of tough cuts of meat, 86of tough poultry, 82of tough shellfish, 83Triple Dungeness Crab and Pork Stock

Infusion, 10pressure-frying, The Colonel’s Fried Chicken,

165pressure-marinating, Yakitori, 115produce. See citrus fruits; fruits; plant foods;

root vegetables; vegetables; specific fruits and vegetables

proofing cabinet, Hamburger Bun, 334propylene glycol alginate

Aerated Coffee Ice Cream, 349Caramelized Coconut Cream, 214for crisp edible gels, 229Dairy-Free Whipped Cream, 326Eggless Citrus Curd, 307Gruyère Spheres, 293Invincible Vinaigrette, 306Jus Gras, 310Olive Oil “Mayonnaise,” 309Salmon Custard, 253Sauce Vin Jaune, 308Siphoned Soufflé à la Lorraine, 338Spot Prawns with Foie Gras Nage, 307for thickening cold liquids, 211for thickening hot liquids, 210Turbot with Onion and Marrow Broth, 76Ultrastable Beurre Blanc, 296

prosciuttoChawanmushi, 242Ham Broth, 16infusing flavor into liquids from, 20Prosciutto and Melon “Raw Egg,” 295

protein curds, 245–250best bets for, 245

prunes, Edible Prune Coals, 347Puffed Chicken Feet, 95Puffed Chickpeas, 344puffed chips, 162Puffed Cockscomb, 94Puffed Crab Cracker, 344Puffed Salmon Skin Pillows, 95puffed snacks, 342–346

best bets for, 342Pulled Mushroom, 197Pulled Pork Shoulder, 89pumpkin, acidity of, 278


PURE-COTE B790PPure-Cote B790

for brittle edible films, 229Pineapple Glass, 187thickening with, best bets for, 201

pureesApricot and Jasmine Puree, 217Black Truffle Concentrate, 57Broccoli and Hazelnut-Oil Puree, 56Celery Root Mousseline, 57Creamed Watercress, 56Date Puree, 145fruit

best bets for, 55best bets for cooking fruits sous vide for,

144Pistachio Puree, 57potato, best bets for, 148Potato Puree, 148Salted Caramel Apple Puree, 145Smoked Pepper Puree, 203smooth, making, 55Tamarind Paste, 145Tamarind Puree, 218vegetable, 55–57

best bets for, 55best bets for cooking vegetables sous vide

for, 144PVC tubes, Two-Meter Parmesan Spaghetto,

262

Qquail

cooking sous vide, best bets for, 71leg of, cooking sous vide, best bets for, 82Quail with Apple-Vinegar Emulsion and

Water Chestnuts, 73quail eggs, Pickled Quail Eggs, 234Quatre Épices, 48quiche fillings, best bets for, 239quince

acidity of, 278cooking under pressure, best bets for, 149Hot Quince Gel, 280

quinoaQuinoa and Idiazábal with Bonito Stock

Veil, 281Ragout of Grains, 156risotto using, best bets for, 152

Rrabbit

cooking sous vide, best bets for, 68Paella Stock, 9shoulder of, best bets for cooking, 86Sous Vide Rabbit Loin, 70

Rack of Lamb, 68radishes. See also daikon radishes

acidity of, 278Nukazake, 175preserving, best bets for, 182

Ragout of Grains, 156raisins, Carbonated Golden Raisins, 63Ramen Noodles, 194Ramen Stock Powder, 61Ramen Vegetables, 61ramp bulbs, Pickled Ramps, 178Rare Beef Sausage, 137Rare Flatiron Steak, 89Ras el Hanout, 52raspberries

acidity of, 278dehydrating, best bets for, 185freeze-drying, best bets for, 188Sous Vide Berry Juice, 32

Rautureau, Thierry, Spot Prawns with Foie Gras Nage recipe, 307

razor clamscooking sous vide, best bets for, 79Razor Clam “Takoyaki,” 171Razor Clam with Sauce Verte, 85

red cabbageacidity of, 278Red Coleslaw, 46Red Wine Cabbage, 147in Sauerkraut, 177Vacuum-Concentrated Apple and Cabbage

Juice, 47Red Coleslaw, 46red currants. See currants, redred onions, acidity of, 278red wine

Escolar with Red Wine Butter, 75infusing flavors into liquids with, 24Red Wine Cabbage, 147

Red-Eye Gravy, 225Redzepi, René, Edible Earth recipe, 208refractometer, 231

Guinness “Pâte de Fruit,” 265Rémoulade Sauce, 302rennet

for basic milk curd, 245Cocoa Nib Curd, 246for farmer’s cheese, 245Fresh Cheese Curds, 247for fresh cottage cheese, 245

Restructured Potato Chips, 162rhubarb


195

I N D E X 3 8 9

SANDERS, HARLAND Srhubarb (continued)

for lowering pH, 22preserving, best bets for, 182puree of, best bets for cooking rhubarb for,

144Sour Rhubarb Sorbet, 54

rhubarb water, best bets for, 42–43Rib Eye with Cherry Mustard Marmalade and

Porcini, 705̌ ribonucleotides, seasoning with, 21D-ribose powder, Beef Tenderloin with Jus de

Roti, 212rice. See also risottos

Arboriorisotto using, best bets for, 152Toasted Rice Milk, 228

Black Sesame Rice Crisps, 343bomba

Paella Rice, 153risotto using, best bets for, 152Socarrat Tuile, 345

brownRagout of Grains, 156risotto using, best bets for, 152

Cantonese Fried Rice, 2carnaroli

Pressure-Cooked Vegetable Risotto, 154Risotto Milanese, 153risotto using, best bets for, 152

Foie Gras Soup with Bomba Rice and Sea Lettuce, 99

forbidden, risotto using, best bets for, 152Japanese, short-grain, risotto using, best

bets for, 152jasmine, Crispy Dosa, 181puffed snacks using, best bets for, 342Rice Crisp, 343smoked, best bets for, 183Steamed Sticky Rice, 152

rice flakes, pressed, for breadings, 167rice flour pasta, dough for, best bets for, 191rice starch, thickening with, best bets for,

200Rich Brown Stock, 7ricotta cheese

best bets for, 245Crispy Goat’s Milk Ricotta Pudding, 205Goat Milk Ricotta, 248Sour Cream Spaetzle, 252

Ripert, EricEscolar with Red Wine Butter recipe, 75Fluke Ceviche recipe, 117

risottos, 152–156best bets for, 152cooking sous vide, 152parboiling, 152Pressure-Cooked Vegetable Risotto, 154pressure-cooking, 152Risotto Milanese, 153Root Vegetable Risotto, 156Sous Vide Clam and Oat Risotto, 154Squid-Ink Bean-Sprout Risotto, 198

Roast Pigeon Crown, 4

Robuchon, JoëlPotato Puree recipe, 151Shellfish Custard recipe, 276

Roca, JoanEggplant Foam recipe, 324Oysters with Cava Foam recipe, 327Smoked Octopus recipe, 123Suckling Pig Shoulder with Shallot and

Orange Sauce recipe, 87rockfish, cooking sous vide, best bets for, 74Roellinger, Olivier

Exotic Spice Mixture recipe, 53Indies Spice Blend recipe, 4819th-Century-Style Lobster with Sherry

and Cocoa recipe, 80Romano beans, Fresh Bean Salad, 141Romera, Miguel Sanchez, Steamed Cod with

Cod Roe Velouté recipe, 203Romesco Sauce, 54root vegetables. See also specific vegetables

best bets for microwaving, 157Root Vegetable Jus, 36Root Vegetable Risotto, 156

rose petals, Crystallized Rose Petals, 187rosemary, infusing flavor into liquids from, 27rotary evaporator

Buddha’s Hand Vodka, 47distilling using, 47Mock Turtle Soup, 48Vacuum-Concentrated Apple and Cabbage

Juice, 47rotary slicer, Japanese, Yogurt Foam and

Sweet Potato Chips, 329rotor-stator homogenizer

Black Truffle Concentrate, 57Broccoli and Hazelnut-Oil Puree, 56Hazelnut “Cream,” 310Jus Gras, 310for making purees, 55Ultrastable Beurre Blanc, 296

rubs. See dry rubsRuhlman, Michael, Blackstrap Molasses

Country Ham recipe, 110rum, Carbonated Mojito Spheres, 291Russian Smoked Salmon, 121rutabaga

acidity of, 278Braised Sauerkraut, 177cooking sous vide until tender, best bets for,

139preserving, best bets for, 182puree of, best bets for cooking rutabaga for,

144in Sauerkraut, 177

Rye Bread, 337

Ssabayon

Blood Orange Sabayon, 318Smoked Potatoes with Vin Jaune Sabayon,

184Sous Vide Sole with Bergamot Sabayon,

319sablefish, cold-smoking, best bets for, 120saffron

Braised Turnips with Saffron, 140infusing flavor into liquids from, 20, 27Saffron Honey Foam, 314

sakeBrown Butter Fumet, 26infusing flavors into liquids with, 24

salads. See also coleslawCaesar Salad, 189Crispy Beef and Shallot Salad, 108Fresh Bean Salad, 141Green Mango and Cashew Salad, 223Pea Vine Salad, 222Potato Salad, 140Sous Vide Baby Beet Salad, 138Warm Potato and Pistachio Pesto Salad,

215salami, best bets for, 132–133salmon

cooking sous vide, best bets for, 74Grapefruit-Cured Salmon, 107lox-style, 121Root Vegetable Jus, 36Russian Smoked Salmon, 121Russian style, cold-smoking, best bets for,

120Salmon Custard, 253Salmon Poached in Licorice, 272Salmon Tartare Cornets, 67Scottish-style, 121

cold-smoking, best bets for, 120Sous Vide Salmon, 78tartare, best bets for, 64

salmon jus, rare, best bets for, 34–35salmon skin, Puffed Salmon Skin Pillows, 95salsify


Fossilized Salsify Branch, 199Milk Skin with Grilled Salsify and Truffle

Puree, 250Salsify Fondant, 143

saltaquarium, Beet Juice-Fed Oysters, 119brines and. See brines; brining

Salt Gel, 261Salted, Freeze-Dried Lobster, 60Salted Caramel Apple Puree, 145Salted Halibut, 112seasoning with, 21

salt cod broth, best bets for, 14–15Sanders, Harland, The Colonel’s Fried

Chicken recipe, 165


SANDWICHESSsandwiches, Egg Salad Sandwich, 238sardines, cooking sous vide, best bets for, 74sauce gun

“Poached” Egg, 292Prosciutto and Melon “Raw Egg,” 295

sauces. See also barbecue sauces; curry saucesDeep-Fried Hollandaise, 305freeze-drying, 58

prefreezing temperature for, 59Modernist Béchamel, 202Rémoulade Sauce, 302Romesco Sauce, 54Sauce Allemande, 237Sauce Vin Jaune, 308Sea Urchin Tartar Sauce, 303Sous Vide Ponzu, 22Steamed Cod with Cod Roe Velouté, 203

saucisson secbest bets for, 132–133Saucisson Sec, 134

Sauerkraut, 177sausages

coarse-ground, 124–127best bets for, 124–125Farce Royale, 126Green Garlic and Pork Sausage, 127Toulousain Garlic Sausage, 126

emulsion-style, 128–131best bets for, 128–129Boudin Blanc, 131Frankfurter, 130Italian Sausage, 130

fermented, 132–135best bets for, 132–133Fast-Cured Pepperoni, 135Fermented Shrimp Sheets, 134Saucisson Sec, 134

hot-smoking, best bets for, 120Modernist, 136–137

Coarse Fat-Gel Sausage, 136Emulsified Sausage with Fat Gel, 136Fried Chicken Sausage, 137Low-Fat Chicken Sausage, 136Rare Beef Sausage, 137

savoy cabbageSauerkraut, 177White Coleslaw, 302

scallionsacidity of, 278frying naked, best bets for, 159Microwaved Tilapia with Scallions and

Ginger, 92scallops

Chawanmushi, 242cooking sous vide, best bets for, 79dried, seasoning with, 21freeze-drying, 58Pen Shell Clam, Pluot, Myoga, Scallop

Mochi, 32Scallop Mochi, 345Scallop Tartare, 66tartare, best bets for, 64

sea bass, cooking sous vide, best bets for, 74sea urchin tongues

Sea Urchin Bottarga, 111Sea Urchin Butter, 297Sea Urchin Tartar Sauce, 303Sea Urchin Tofu, Tokyo Negi, Sesame,

Ponzu, 266Shellfish Custard, 276Uni with Whipped Tofu and Tapioca, 328

seafood. See also fish; shellfish; specific kinds of seafood

freeze-drying, prefreezing temperature for, 59

Seafood Paper, 113seafood brine, basic, best bets for, 101Seared Strawberry, 189seaweed

Fluke Cured in Kombu, 110Foie Gras Soup with Bomba Rice and Sea

Lettuce, 99Hon Dashi, 15preserving, best bets for, 182Seaweed Tapenade, 218Seaweed Vinegar, 23

seeds. See also specific kinds of seedscooking under pressure, best bets for, 149

self-coagulated eggs, best bets for, 234semolina pasta

dough for, best bets for, 191Semolina Pasta, 195

separatory funnelHazelnut Oil Extract, 26washing citrus oil, 26

Serra, Richard, 329sesame seeds

Black Sesame Rice Crisps, 343cooking under pressure, best bets for, 149Pressure-Cooked Sesame Seeds, 151

shallotscooking sous vide until tender, best bets for,

139cooking sous vide with fat, best bets for,

143Crispy Beef and Shallot Salad, 108puree of

best bets for, 55best bets for cooking shallots for, 144

seasoning with, 21Sous Vide and Pressure-Cooked Veal

Breast with Bulbous Vegetables, 91Shaoxing wine, infusing flavors into liquids

with, 24Shaved Foie Gras, 105shellfish. See also seafood; specific kinds of

shellfishconsommé using, best bets for, 42–43cooking sous vide, 79–81

best bets for, 79Shellfish Butter, 29Shellfish Custard, 276tender, cooking sous vide, best bets for, 79tough, 83–85

best bets for cooking, 83

shellfish jus, best bets for, 34–35shellfish sausage, best bets for, 128–129shellfish stock

aromatics for, best bets for, 8best bets for, 6–7Coconut-Lobster Emulsion, 319Shellfish Stock, 7

sherryinfusing flavors into liquids with, 2419th-Century-Style Lobster with Sherry

and Cocoa, 80sherry vinegar, Sherry Gel Cube, 267Shigoku Oyster with Fizzy Grapes, Fresh

Wasabi, and Miso Powder, 63shiitake mushrooms

Cantonese Fried Rice, 2cooking sous vide until tender, best bets for,

139dried, frying naked, best bets for, 159fresh, frying naked, best bets for, 159Ragout of Grains, 156Shiitake Marmalade, 216Sweetbreads with Sour Mango Powder and

Shiitake, 97shimeji mushrooms, cooking sous vide until

tender, best bets for, 139shrimp

brining, best bets for, 103cooking sous vide, best bets for, 79Fermented Shrimp Sheets, 134Pad Thai, 193Shrimp and Grits, 190Shrimp Cocktail, 80Spot Prawn and Lotus Root Tempura with

Smoked White Soy Sauce, 164shrimp paste, seasoning with, 21Sichuan Bok Choy, 158Silken Tofu, 246silver powder, edible, Monkfish with

Constructed Skin, 95simplesse, Aerated Foie Gras, 348siphon. See also carbonating siphon; whipping

siphonAutoclaved Onion Soup, 150Crispy Halibut Cheek, 165Green Asparagus and Morels with Aspara-

gus Jus, 33for light foams, 316for making batters, 163Mozzarella Balloons, 249Shellfish Custard, 276Smoked Potatoes with Vin Jaune Sabayon,

184Sous Vide Instant Hollandaise, 305Spot Prawn and Lotus Root Tempura with

Smoked White Soy Sauce, 164Siphoned Soufflé à la Lorraine, 338skate

cooking sous vide, best bets for, 74Skate Pavé with Bread Crust, 78

skin, puffedchicken, Ultracrisp Chicken Crown, 93Monkfish with Constructed Skin, 95

I N D E X 3 9 1

SOUS VIDE METHODS Sskin, puffed (continued)

porkhow to puff, 93Pork Loin Roast, 94

Puffed Salmon Skin Pillows, 95slicer, rotary, Japanese, Yogurt Foam and

Sweet Potato Chips, 329slow-curing rub, best bets for, 102smoke gun, Smoked Octopus, 123smoked dairy products, 244

best bets for, 244smoked eggs, 244

best bets for, 244Smoked Egg Crème Caramel, 244

Smoked Lettuce, 195Smoked Pepper Puree, 203smoked plant foods, 183–184

best bets for, 183smoking. See also cold-smoking; hot-smoking

Beef Brisket, 88Beef Short Ribs, 90after brining, 101of fermented sausage, 132Hay-Smoked Chicken Crown, 122House-Cured Bacon, 107Pork Ribs, 88Pulled Pork Shoulder, 89Smoked Octopus, 123Smoked Pork Cheek, 122Smoked Potato Confit, 184Smoked Potatoes with Vin Jaune Sabayon,

184snails

best bets for cooking, 83Sous Vide Braised Snails, 83

snappercooking sous vide, best bets for, 74Sous Vide Snapper, 78

Socarrat Tuile, 345soda siphon. See carbonating siphonsodas

Ginger Cola, 311Lychee and Lime Soda, 315Orange Soda, 62

sodium alginateCaper Droplets, 293Carbonated Mojito Spheres, 291Emulsified Sausage with Fat Gel, 136Ham Consommé with Melon Beads, 211Liquid Pimento Olive, 294Melon Caviar, 291Mussels in Mussel Juice Spheres, 294“Poached” Egg, 292Prosciutto and Melon “Raw Egg,” 295for spherification, 290Tomato Spheres with Basil Oil, 292

sodium benzoate, to preserve color and flavor of fresh juice, 31

sodium carbonate, in alkaline ramen, 191sodium caseinate

for airs, bubbles, and froths, 312

sodium caseinate (continued)Broiled Tuna Belly with Montpellier Butter,

298Coarse Fat-Gel Sausage, 136

sodium citrateThe American Cheese Slice, 300Cheddar Soup, 301Cheese in a Tube, 300Cheesy Whip, 301Coconut Chutney Foam, 325for constructed cheeses, 299Creamed Watercress, 56Gruyère Custard, 275Gruyère Soufflé, 340Halibut Cheek Gel Base, 270in ham and cheese sausage, 129Hot and Cold Tea, 286Madeira Gelée, 264for spherification, 290

sodium hexametaphosphateDeep-Fried Hollandaise, 305Dill Spheres, 259Everything Bagel Broth, 258Fresh Cheese Curds, 247for fruit and vegetable gels, 278for hot fruit gels, 279Hot Green Apple Gel, 280Hot Quince Gel, 280Shellfish Custard, 276for spherification, 290Squid-Ink Fluid Gel, 259

sodium hydroxideCentury Egg, 234Lutefisk, 114

sodium metabisulfite, to preserve color and flavor of fresh juice, 31

sodium nitrate, in Wiltshire tank cure, 102sodium nitrite, in Wiltshire tank cure, 102sodium phosphate

Cheese in a Tube, 300Cheesy Whip, 301Joha SDS2, for constructed cheeses, 299

sodium tripolyphosphatein basic phosphate brine, 101Chilled Chicken-Noodle Soup, 311

Soft-Boiled Egg and Garlic Emulsion, 304sole

aging of, Kinch on, 76cooking sous vide, best bets for, 74Sous Vide Sole with Bergamot Sabayon,

319sorbets

Aerated Mango Sorbet, 347Sour Rhubarb Sorbet, 54

sorbitolBacon Chip, 104for coating gels, 269Foie Gras Torchon with Beet and Hibiscus

Glaze, 272Grapefruit and Black Pepper, 321for hot fruit gels, 279for hot gels, 274Hot Orange Gel, 279

soufflésGruyère Soufflé, 340Siphoned Soufflé à la Lorraine, 338

soupsAutoclaved Onion Soup, 150Caramelized Carrot Soup, 150Cheddar Soup, 301cheese, best bets for, 299Chilled Chicken-Noodle Soup, 311Foie Gras Soup with Bomba Rice and Sea

Lettuce, 99Mock Turtle Soup, 48onion, cooking under pressure, best bets

for, 149Pacojet Pea Soup, 53

Sour Cream Spaetzle, 252Sour Rhubarb Sorbet, 54sous vide methods

Abalone and Foie Gras Shabu-Shabu with Yuba and Enoki, 84

Aerated Chocolate, 349Agar Carbonara, 275Aged Rare Beef Jus, 216American Wagyu Beef Cheek, 89Ankimo Torchon, 97Bacon Dashi, 18Bacon Jam, 304Baked Beans, 149Baked Potato Broth, 19Banana Yogurt, 41Basic Mayonnaise, 303Beef Brisket, 88Beef Shank Rillette, 87Beef Short Ribs, 90Beef Tenderloin with Jus de Roti, 212best bets for cooking fruits sous vide until

tender, 138best bets for cooking vegetables sous vide

until tender, 139best bets for cooking vegetables sous vide

with fat, 143Black Cod, 76Black Truffle Concentrate, 57Bone Marrow Custard, 276Borscht Broth, 14Boudin Blanc, 131Boudin Noir Custard, 239Bouillabaisse Broth, 17Braised Lamb Shoulder, 88Braised Pine Nuts with Winter Squash, 155Braised Short Ribs, 90Braised Turnips with Saffron, 140Braised Veal Foreshank, 89Broiled Tuna Belly with Montpellier Butter,

298for broths, 15Brown Beef Stock, 10Carrot and Dill Fricassee, 141Cauliflower Crème Anglaise, 235Celery Root Mousseline, 57Chawanmushi, 242Chestnut Confit, 143Chicken Tikka Masala, 118


SOUS VIDE METHODSSsous vide methods (continued)

Chili Pearls, 265Chilled Chicken-Noodle Soup, 311Chocolate Chantilly, 322Chorizo French Toast, 243Clam Juice, 36Coarse Fat-Gel Sausage, 136for coarse-ground sausages, 125Coffee Butter, 350Confit Egg-Yolk Puree, 288Constructed Red Wine Glaze, 24Corn Custard, 256Creamed Watercress, 56Crispy Duck Tongues, 87Crispy Sweetbreads, 100Curry Oil, 30Date Puree, 145Duck Leg Confit with Pommes Sarladaises,

105Escolar with Red Wine Butter, 75Fast-Cured Pepperoni, 135Fermented Shrimp Sheets, 134for fermenting, 133Flourless Gnocchi, 254Foie Gras and Button Mushroom Tart, 98Foie Gras Parfait, 104Foie Gras Parfait Spheres, 270Foie Gras Soup with Bomba Rice and Sea

Lettuce, 99Foie Gras Torchon, 104Fresh Bean Salad, 141Garlic Confit, 176Glazed Carrot, 25Glazed Oxtail, 90Glazed Pearl Onion, 140Glazed White Carrot, 139Goulash Broth, 19Green Asparagus and Morels with Aspara-

gus Jus, 33Green Garlic and Pork Sausage, 127Halibut Brandade, 112Halibut Cheek Gel Base, 270Halibut in Verbena Bubble, 273Hanger Steak Tartare, 65Hon Dashi, 15Hot Banana Gel, 280Hot Butter Foam, 324Hot Egg Mayonnaise, 303Hot Green Apple Gel, 280Hot Orange Gel, 279Instant Swiss Meringue, 323Kalbi Flank Steak, 114Lemon Egg-Yolk Fluid Gel, 287Ling Cod with Bergamot-Infused Milk, 75Lobster Mushroom Confit, 144Lutefisk, 114Mackerel with Spicy Tomato Skin, 284for making consommé, 43for making jus, 35Milk Foam, 317Miso-Cured Black Cod, 106Modernist Fried Chicken, 166Monkfish with Constructed Skin, 95

sous vide methods (continued)19th-Century-Style Lobster with Sherry

and Cocoa, 80Olive Oil Noodles, 266Onion Rings, 170Oxtail Consommé, 46Oyster Escabeche, 81Pickled Figs, 177Pigeon with Shellfish Butter, 72Pink Grapefruit Confit, 146Poached Apple with Pecorino Foam, 320Poached Lobster, 296Poached Lobster Tail, 81Pork Loin Roast, 94Pork Ribs, 88Pork Tenderloin with Juniper, 69Potato Puree, 148, 151Potato Salad, 140Poulet au Feu d’Enfer, 72Pregelatinized Starch Paste, 200Puffed Chicken Feet, 95Puffed Cockscomb, 94Puffed Salmon Skin Pillows, 95puffing skin on a pork roast, 93Pulled Mushroom, 197Pulled Pork Shoulder, 89Quail with Apple-Vinegar Emulsion and

Water Chestnuts, 73Rack of Lamb, 68Ramen Stock Powder, 61Ramen Vegetables, 61Rare Flatiron Steak, 89Razor Clam with Sauce Verte, 85Red Wine Cabbage, 147Rib Eye with Cherry Mustard Marmalade

and Porcini, 70for risottos, 152Root Vegetable Jus, 36Rye Bread, 337Salmon Poached in Licorice, 272Salsify Fondant, 143Salted Caramel Apple Puree, 145Sauce Allemande, 237for sausages, emulsion-style, 129Sea Urchin Bottarga, 111Sea Urchin Tartar Sauce, 303Shellfish Butter, 29Shrimp and Grits, 190Shrimp Cocktail, 80Siphoned Soufflé à la Lorraine, 338Skate Pavé with Bread Crust, 78Smoked Egg Crème Caramel, 244Smoked Pepper Puree, 203Smoked Pork Cheek, 122Socarrat Tuile, 345Soft-Boiled Egg and Garlic Emulsion, 304Sour Rhubarb Sorbet, 54Sous Vide and Pressure-Cooked Veal

Breast with Bulbous Vegetables, 91Sous Vide Artichoke, 142Sous Vide Baby Beet Salad, 138Sous Vide Beef Juice, 40Sous Vide Berry Juice, 32

sous vide methods (continued)Sous Vide Braised Snails, 83Sous Vide Clam and Oat Risotto, 154Sous Vide Cucumber Pickles, 176Sous Vide Duck Confit Pavé, 82Sous Vide Duck Ham, 109Sous Vide Fish Stock, 12Sous Vide Foie Gras, 96Sous Vide Glazed Pearl Onion, 138Sous Vide Green Asparagus, 142Sous Vide Guinea Hen, 83Sous Vide Instant Hollandaise, 305Sous Vide Lemon Curd, 304Sous Vide Lemon Herb Oil, 29Sous Vide Lentils, 142Sous Vide Monkfish Pavé, 77Sous Vide Mussel Juice, 37Sous Vide Mussels, 79Sous Vide Octopus, 85Sous Vide Pigeon Offal, 98Sous Vide Ponzu, 22Sous Vide Pork Belly, 88Sous Vide Prawn Jus, 39Sous Vide Rabbit Loin, 70Sous Vide Rare Beef Jus, 40Sous Vide Salmon, 78Sous Vide Snapper, 78Sous Vide Sole with Bergamot Sabayon,

319Sous Vide Turnip, 139Sous Vide Veal Sweetbreads, 99Sous Vide Veal Tongue, 90Sous Vide Vegetable Jus, 36Sous Vide Vegetable Stock, 13Spaghetti Carbonara, 192Spiced Chili Oil, 29Squid Sicilian Lifeguard-Style, 84Starch-Infused Ultrasonic Fries, 161Steamed Cod with Cod Roe Velouté, 203Steamed Live Spot Prawn, 81Steelhead Trout Confit with Fennel Salad,

77for stocks, 7, 12–13Suckling Pig Shoulder with Shallot and

Orange Sauce, 87Sweet Potato Fondant, 144Sweet-and-Sour Cipolline Onion, 141Tamarind Paste, 145Tamarind Puree, 218tender meats cooked using, 68–70

best bets for, 68for tender offal, 96for tough cuts of meat, 86for tough offal, 96Toulousain Garlic Sausage, 126Tuna Ribbons with Ginger Marinade, 116Turbot with Onion and Marrow Broth, 76Turkey Wing, 204Ultrasonic Fries, 161Venison Loin Rossini, 69Warm Potato and Pistachio Pesto Salad,

215XO Sauce, 213

I N D E X 3 9 3

STRAWBERRIES Ssous vide methods (continued)

Yakitori, 115Yuzu and Kumquat Marmalade, 181

South Carolina Barbecue Sauce, 219soybeans, Soy Milk, 227soy gels, transglutaminase, best bets for,

252–253soy lecithin

deoiled powderfor airs, bubbles, and froths, 312Citrus Air, 312Geoduck with Seawater Foam, 314Horchata Foam, 316Oysters with Mignonette Air, 313Parsley Foam, 313Saffron Honey Foam, 314Tomato Vinegar Foam, 315

liquidInvincible Vinaigrette, 306Jus Gras, 310Ultrastable Beurre Blanc, 296

soy milkabout, 248Firm Tofu, 248Green Pea Yuba, 249Silken Tofu, 246Soy Milk, 227

soy saucePassion Fruit–White Soy Sauce Vinaigrette,

23seasoning with, 21smoked, best bets for, 183Sous Vide Ponzu, 22Soy Sauce Cloud, 339Spot Prawn and Lotus Root Tempura with

Smoked White Soy Sauce, 164spaetzle, Sour Cream Spaetzle, 252Spaghetti Carbonara, 192spaghetti squash

acidity of, 278Marinated Spaghetti Squash, 26

speltRagout of Grains, 156risotto using, best bets for, 152

spherification, 290–295best bets for, 290reverse, 290suspending solids in gelled spheres and,

290spice mixes. See also dry rubs

Chaat Masala, 50Chili Tomato Spice Blend, 49Citrus Spice, 52Exotic Spice Mixture, 53Fish Spice Mix, 51Indies Spice Blend, 48Licorice Powder, 52Pain d’Épices Powder, 51Quatre Épices, 48Ras el Hanout, 52Spice Mix Emulsion, 309Sweet Spice Blend, 50

Spiced Ash, 206Spiced Chili Oil, 29Spiced Honey Glass, 230Spiced Shellfish Stock, 9Spiced Walnut Vinegar Gel, 262spices, toasting, 224spinach

acidity of, 278Creamed Spinach, 215dehydrating, best bets for, 185puree of

best bets for, 55best bets for cooking spinach for, 144

Spinach Paper, 187Spot Prawn and Lotus Root Tempura with

Smoked White Soy Sauce, 164Spot Prawns with Foie Gras Nage, 307spray-drying, 59

Spray-Dried Blood Orange Juice, 59Spray-Dried Buttermilk, 59

spreadscheese, best bets for, 299Herbed Cheese Spread, 227

Spring Garlic Consommé, 44spring onions. See scallionssquash. See also specific kinds of squash


dehydrating, best bets for, 185frying naked, best bets for, 159

Squash Glaze, 39squid

best bets for cooking, 83Squid Sicilian Lifeguard-Style, 84

squid inkSquid-Ink Fluid Gel, 259Squid-Ink Bean-Sprout Risotto, 198Vegetable Coals, 197

Stable Latte Foam, 350stand mixer

Beef and Oyster Tartare, 65for coarse-ground sausages, 124for fermented sausage, 132Hamburger Bun, 334Heather-Smoked Sturgeon Rillettes, 205Pâte à Choux, 341Rye Bread, 337for set foams, 330Whipped Cheese, 317

star anise, infusing flavor into liquids from, 20, 27

starch. See also specific kinds of starchas adhesive for breading, 167modified, as adhesive for breading, 167

starch gels, 255–259starch thickeners

modern, 201–209best bets for, 201

traditional, best bets for, 200Starch-Infused Fries, 161Starch-Infused Ultrasonic Fries, 161starch/water slurry, as liquid for breading, 167

steam oven. See also combi oven; CVap ovenAsparagus Royale, 241Boeuf en Gelée, 277Chawanmushi, 242Parmesan Crème Brûlée, 237

steamer, low-temperature, Ham and Cheese Omelet, 240

steamingBone Marrow Custard, 276Corn Custard, 256Dashimaki Tamago, 241Ham and Cheese Omelet, 240Mussels in Mussel Juice Spheres, 294Omelet Base, 243Puffed Crab Cracker, 344Silken Tofu, 246Smoked Egg Crème Caramel, 244Spot Prawns with Foie Gras Nage, 307Stable Latte Foam, 350Steamed Blancmange, 335Steamed Cod with Cod Roe Velouté, 203Steamed Live Spot Prawn, 81Steamed Sticky Rice, 152Tapioca Starch Cracker, 343

Steelhead Trout Confit with Fennel Salad, 77Steingarten, Jeffrey

on pastrami, 121Potato Puree recipe, 151

stir-fryingGong Bao Chicken, 119Pad Thai, 193Stir-Fried Fiddlehead Ferns, 160

stocksaromatics for, best bets for, 8best bets for, 6–7Brown Beef Stock, 10Brown Veal Stock, 11freeze-drying, 58

prefreezing temperature for, 59Onion Stock, 11Paella Stock, 9Pressure-Cooked White Chicken Stock, 11Rich Brown Stock, 7Shellfish Stock, 7Sous Vide Fish Stock, 12sous vide methods for making, 12–13Sous Vide Vegetable Stock, 13Spiced Shellfish Stock, 9Triple Dungeness Crab and Pork Stock

Infusion, 10White Stock, 6

strawberriesacidity of, 278chips using, best bets for, 162compressing/impregnating, best bets for,

195dehydrating, best bets for, 185freeze-drying, best bets for, 188Pressure-Cooked Polenta with Strawberry

Marinara, 214Seared Strawberry, 189Sous Vide Berry Juice, 32Strawberry Consommé, 32


STRAWBERRIESSstrawberries (continued)

Strawberry Gazpacho, 33Strawberry Milk Shake, 62

Stupak, AlexAerated Coffee Ice Cream recipe, 349Pistachio Puree recipe, 57Whipped Cheese recipe, 317

sturgeoncooking sous vide, best bets for, 74Heather-Smoked Sturgeon, 122Heather-Smoked Sturgeon Rillettes, 205

Subijana, Pedro, Eggs Benedict recipe, 236suckling pig

cooking sous vide, best bets for, 68shoulder and leg of, best bets for cooking,

86Suckling Pig Shoulder with Shallot and

Orange Sauce, 87sucrose, for cold gels, 260sucrose esters

for airs, bubbles, and froths, 312Black Olive Puree, 306Cappuccino Foam, 315Eggless Mayonnaise, 309Kanpachi Sashimi with Citrus Foam, 313Milk Foam, 317Shigoku Oyster with Fizzy Grapes, Fresh

Wasabi, and Miso Powder, 63Shrimp and Grits, 190Stable Latte Foam, 350

Suet Mousseline, 325sugar preserves, formula for, 173Sugimoto, Takashi, Green Pea Yuba recipe, 249summer squash. See also yellow squash;

zucchinicooking sous vide until tender, best bets for,

139sunchokes. See Jerusalem artichokessunflower seeds, cooking under pressure,

best bets for, 149Sunny-Side Up “Eggs,” 268super methylcellulose SGA 150, Oxtail

Consommé, 46sweet cure, basic, best bets for, 102Sweet Pea Clusters, 284sweet potatoes

acidity of, 278cooking sous vide with fat, best bets for, 143Sweet Potato Fondant, 144Yogurt Foam and Sweet Potato Chips, 329

Sweet Spice Blend, 50sweet whey powder, Strawberry Milk Shake,

62Sweet-and-Sour Cipolline Onion, 141sweetbreads

brining, best bets for, 103Sweetbreads with Sour Mango Powder and

Shiitake, 97Swiss cheese, The American Cheese Slice, 300syringe

Ham Consommé with Melon Beads, 211Melon Caviar, 291Tomato Spheres with Basil Oil, 292

TTagine Base, 39Takazawa, Yoshiaki, simulation of nature in

dishes of, 208Talbot, H. Alexander

Aerated Gruyère recipe, 348Compressed Melon Terrine recipe, 196fast hot-spring egg recipe, 232Goat Cheese Dumplings recipe, 246Modernist Béchamel recipe, 202Pasta Marinara recipe, 193Pulled Mushroom recipe, 197Whipped Yogurt Crisps recipe, 333

tamarindfor lowering pH, 22Tamarind Paste, 145Tamarind Puree, 218

tangerines. See also citrus fruitsacidity of, 278

tapioca pearlsPickled Tapioca Pearl, 174Uni with Whipped Tofu and Tapioca, 328

tapioca starchcrackers made with

best bets for, 342Tapioca Starch Cracker, 343

Olive Oil Noodles, 266Pregelatinized Starch Paste, 200puffing skin on a pork roast, 93Tapioca Starch Cracker, 343thickening with, best bets for, 200

tarbais beans, Pressure-Cooked Tarbais Beans, 149

taro, acidity of, 278tarragon, infusing flavor into liquids from, 20tartar sauce, Sea Urchin Tartar Sauce, 303tartares, 64–67

Beef and Oyster Tartare, 65best bets for, 64Hanger Steak Tartare, 65Salmon Tartare Cornets, 67Scallop Tartare, 66

tartaric acidfor cold gels, 260Gruyère Soufflé, 340Guinness “Pâte de Fruit,” 265for lowering pH, 22Melon Water, 31to preserve color and flavor of fresh juice,

31for set foams, 330

teagreen

Cryopoached Green Tea Sour, 332Green Tea Cake, 333

Hot and Cold Tea, 286infusing flavor into liquids from, 20

Techamuanvivit, Pim, Pad Thai recipe, 193temperatures

for cooking poultry sous vide, 71for cooking tough shellfish, 83

temperatures (continued)for fish cooked sous vide, 74prefreezing, for freeze-drying, 59for setting of egg yolks, 233

tempura batter, best bets for, 163Thai chicken sausage, best bets for, 124–125Thai stock


Thanksgiving Turkey Gravy, 204Thermomix, Blood Pudding Custard, 298thermophilic starter, Fresh Cheese Curds, 247Thickened Oil, 306thickening

of cold liquids, best bets for, 211of hot liquids, best bets for, 210starches for. See starch thickeners

This, HervéChocolate Chantilly recipe, 322Pickled Quail Eggs recipe, 234

Thompson, Bradford, Preserved Lemons recipe, 174

Thompson, David, Thai chicken sausage recipe, 124–125

300 Bloom gelatin. See gelatin, 300 Bloomthyme, infusing flavor into liquids from, 27tigernuts. See chufa nutstilapia, Microwaved Tilapia with Scallions and

Ginger, 92time-temperature combinations, for cooking

tough shellfish, 83Toasted Almond Milk, 228Toasted Garlic Chips, 159Toasted Oat Jus, 38Toasted Rice Milk, 228toasting spices, 224tofu

best bets for, 245Burmese Chickpea Tofu Laksa, 255Firm Tofu, 248Instant Tofu Noodles, 283Peanut “Tofu,” 257Sea Urchin Tofu, Tokyo Negi, Sesame,

Ponzu, 266Silken Tofu, 246Uni with Whipped Tofu and Tapioca, 328

Tom Yum Broth, 18tomatoes

acidity of, 278Chili Tomato Spice Blend, 49chips using, best bets for, 162compressing/impregnating, best bets for,

195freeze-drying, best bets for, 188green, Fried Green Tomatoes, 168Mackerel with Spicy Tomato Skin, 284Pasta Marinara, 193preserving, best bets for, 182Pressure-Cooked Polenta with Strawberry

Marinara, 214puree of, best bets for cooking tomatoes for,

144seasoning with, 21

I N D E X 3 9 5

UNI Utomatoes (continued)

Tomato Confit, 179Tomato Powder, 157Tomato Spheres with Basil Oil, 292Tomato Vinegar Foam, 315Tomato Water, 40Tomato Whey Broth, 212

tongue. See beef tongue; duck tongue; veal tongue

Toulousain Garlic Sausage, 126transglutaminase gels, 252–254. See also

Activa entriesbest bets for, 252–253

trehaloseBoudin Noir Bread Pudding, 242Candied Puffed Oats, 345Crystallized Rose Petals, 187Dried Cherry and Hazelnut Nougatine,

230Edible Prune Coals, 347Onion Arlette, 231Spiced Honey Glass, 230Zucchini Blossom Beignets, 341

Triple Dungeness Crab and Pork Stock Infusion, 10

Trisolas adhesive for breading, 167Crispy Halibut Cheek, 165Cromesquis, 168Fried Pickles, 164

Troisgros, Michel, Cocoa Nib Curd recipe, 246

Trotter, Charlie, Quail with Apple-Vinegar Emulsion and Water Chestnuts recipe, 73

troutcooking sous vide, best bets for, 74Steelhead Trout Confit with Fennel Salad,

77truffles. See also black truffles

Frozen White “Truffle,” 198tuiles, Socarrat Tuile, 345tuna

belly of, cooking sous vide, best bets for, 74Broiled Tuna Belly with Montpellier Butter,

298loin of, cooking sous vide, best bets for, 74tartare, best bets for, 64Tuna Ribbons with Ginger Marinade, 116

turbotaging of, Kinch on, 76cooking sous vide, best bets for, 74Turbot with Onion and Marrow Broth, 76

turkey. See also poultrycooking sous vide, best bets for, 71leg of, cooking sous vide, best bets for, 82Thanksgiving Turkey Gravy, 204Turkey Wing, 204whole, brining, best bets for, 103wings of, cooking sous vide, best bets for,

82turnips

acidity of, 278Braised Turnips with Saffron, 140

turnips (continued)cooking sous vide until tender, best bets for,

139cooking sous vide with fat, best bets for,

143preserving, best bets for, 182puree of, best bets for cooking turnips for,

144Root Vegetable Risotto, 156in Sauerkraut, 177Sous Vide Turnip, 139spring, cooking sous vide, best bets for, 147

200 Bloom gelatin, Edible Wrappers, 230240 Bloom gelatin, Halibut in Verbena Bubble,

273Two-Meter Parmesan Spaghetto, 262

UUltracrisp Chicken Crown, 93Ultra-Crisp CS

Crispy Corn Pudding, 172Restructured Potato Chips, 162

ultrahigh-pressure homogenizer, for making purees, 55

ultrasonic bathBlack Truffle Concentrate, 57Buddha’s Hand Vodka, 47extracting citrus essential oil, 47flavor extraction for broths using, 22Sous Vide Vegetable Stock, 13Starch-Infused Ultrasonic Fries, 161Ultrasonic Fries, 161

ultrasonic homogenizer, for making purees, 55Ultra-Sperse

AFreeze-Dried Beef Gravy Granules, 60Potato Puree, 148

5Avocado Puree, 201Invincible Vinaigrette, 306Marcona Almond Butter Paste, 205Root Vegetable Risotto, 156Smoked Pepper Puree, 203for thick foams, 322

MAlmond Polenta, 207Cheese Puffs, 344Deep-Fried Hollandaise, 305puffing skin on a pork roast, 93

3Caramelized Crème Fraîche, 203Creamed Spinach, 215Cromesquis, 168Heather-Smoked Sturgeon Rillettes, 205Jerusalem Artichoke Pudding, 202Modernist Béchamel, 202Pomegranate and Garum Jus, 204Razor Clam “Takoyaki,” 171Thanksgiving Turkey Gravy, 204thickening with, best bets for, 201

Ultrastable Beurre Blanc, 296Ultra-Tex

8, thickening with, best bets for, 2014, Crispy Goat’s Milk Ricotta Pudding, 205

umami brine, best bets for, 101umami flavor, 23Umami Seasoning Fluid Gel, 289uni. See sea urchin tongues


VACUUM CHAMBERVVvacuum chamber

Aerated Chocolate, 349Aerated Coffee Ice Cream, 349Aerated Foie Gras, 348Aerated Mango Sorbet, 347Boudin Noir Bread Pudding, 242Chorizo French Toast, 243Curry-Impregnated Apple, 196Edible Prune Coals, 347Smoked Lettuce, 195

vacuum concentratingRed Coleslaw, 46Vacuum-Concentrated Apple and Cabbage

Juice, 47vacuum cooling, air cooling compared with,

161vacuum evaporator, Vacuum-Concentrated

Apple and Cabbage Juice, 47vacuum filtering

Oyster Consommé, 42Tomato Water, 40

vacuum oven, Green Olive Meringue, 339vacuum pressure, boiling point vs., 47vacuum reduction

Condrieu Butter, 25Glazed Carrot, 25Red Coleslaw, 46

vacuum sealingAerated Chocolate, 349Aerated Coffee Ice Cream, 349Ankimo Torchon, 97Apple Cider Consommé, 43Aromatic Alsatian Mustard, 176Artichoke and Potato Chaat, 158Baked Potato Broth, 19Beef Shank Rillette, 87Black Cod, 76Blood Pudding Custard, 298Bouillabaisse Broth, 17Braised Short Ribs, 90Braised Veal Foreshank, 89Brown Beef Stock, 10Brown Veal Stock, 11Buckwheat Dough, 194Cappuccino Foam, 315Cauliflower Crème Anglaise, 235Centrifuged Carotene Butter, 40Chaat Masala, 50Chestnut Cream, 328Chicken Tikka Masala, 118Citrus Spice, 52Cocoa Nib Curd, 246Cocoa Tajarin, 194Compressed Dill-Pickled Vegetables, 178Compressed Melon Terrine, 196Compressed Muscat Grapes, 196Confit Cure Mix, 106Constructed Red Wine Glaze, 24Crispy Beef Strands, 108

vacuum sealing (continued)Cured Beef Tenderloin “Bresaola Style,”

111Curry-Impregnated Apple, 196Dashimaki Tamago, 241Duck Leg Confit with Pommes Sarladaises,

105Edible Prune Coals, 347Eggless Citrus Curd, 307Everything Bagel Broth, 258for extracting flavor with alcohol, 26Fish Spice Mix, 51Fluke Cured in Kombu, 110Foie Gras Cherries, 270Foie Gras Parfait, 104French Scrambled Eggs, 240Fried Pickles, 164Glazed Oxtail, 90Grapefruit-Cured Salmon, 107Green Asparagus and Morels with Aspara-

gus Jus, 33Green Papaya Pickle, 180Ham Broth, 16Ham Consommé with Melon Beads, 211Heather-Smoked Sturgeon, 122Herb-Embedded Pasta Veil, 191Hon Dashi, 15Horchata (Chufa Milk), 228Horchata Foam, 316Horseradish Foam, 327Hot Apricot Marshmallow, 334House-Cured Bacon, 107Idiazábal Gnocchi, 258Kalbi Flank Steak, 114Laksa Broth, 17Lemon Strips, 228Liquid Pimento Olive, 294Lutefisk, 114Mackerel with Spicy Tomato Skin, 284Malaysian Aromatic Oil, 30Maple Vinegar Gastrique, 216Melon Caviar, 291Melon Water, 31Microwaved Beef Jerky, 108Milk Foam, 317Miso-Cured Black Cod, 106Mock Turtle Soup, 48Mussels in Mussel Juice Spheres, 294Olive Oil Gummy Worms, 267Oxtail Pho Broth, 16Pasta Marinara, 193Pâte à Choux, 341Pectinase-Steeped Fries, 160Pickled Bing Cherry, 180Pickled Butternut Squash, 180Pickled Celery Root, 179Pickled Jerusalem Artichokes, 178Pickled Lemon, 179Pickled Quail Eggs, 234Pickled Ramps, 178Pickled Tapioca Pearl, 174Pink Grapefruit Confit, 146

vacuum sealing (continued)Pistachio Consommé, 44Pistachio Puree, 57“Poached” Egg, 292Pork Tenderloin with Juniper, 69Potato Beignets with Caviar, 283Preserved Pear in Mustard Oil, 173Pressure-Cooked Egg Toast, 241Pressure-Cooked Polenta with Strawberry

Marinara, 214Pressure-Cooked White Chicken Stock, 11Prosciutto and Melon “Raw Egg,” 295Puffed Salmon Skin Pillows, 95Ragout of Grains, 156Ramen Noodles, 194Ras el Hanout, 52Razor Clam “Takoyaki,” 171Roast Pigeon Crown, 4Russian Smoked Salmon, 121Rye Bread, 337Salmon Custard, 253Salted Halibut, 112Sauerkraut, 177Scallop Mochi, 345Sea Urchin Bottarga, 111Seaweed Vinegar, 23Shellfish Butter, 29Sichuan Bok Choy, 158Smoked Egg Crème Caramel, 244Smoked Octopus, 123Smoked Potato Confit, 184Smoked Potatoes with Vin Jaune Sabayon,

184Sous Vide Beef Juice, 40Sous Vide Braised Snails, 83Sous Vide Cucumber Pickles, 176Sous Vide Fish Stock, 12Sous Vide Lemon Curd, 304Sous Vide Monkfish Pavé, 77Sous Vide Mussel Juice, 37Sous Vide Ponzu, 22Sous Vide Pork Belly, 88Sous Vide Rare Beef Jus, 40Sous Vide Sole with Bergamot Sabayon,

319Sous Vide Vegetable Stock, 13Soy Milk, 227Spiced Chili Oil, 29Squid Sicilian Lifeguard-Style, 84Starch-Infused Fries, 161Suet Mousseline, 325Sweet Spice Blend, 50Tagine Base, 39Tapioca Starch Cracker, 343Toasted Almond Milk, 228Tom Yum Broth, 18Tomato Confit, 179Tomato Vinegar Foam, 315Triple Dungeness Crab and Pork Stock

Infusion, 10Turkey Wing, 204Ultracrisp Chicken Crown, 93

I N D E X 3 9 7

VONGERICHTEN, JEAN-GEORGES Vvacuum sealing (continued)

vinegar, 23Warm Potato and Pistachio Pesto Salad,

215Watermelon Rind Kimchi, 175Whipped Butter, 329White Grape Syrup, 213Yakitori, 115

vacuum tumbling, to reduce marinating time, 114

vacuum cooling, Pommes Pont-Neuf, 160vacuum drying

Fast-Cured Pepperoni, 135of fermented sausage, 133Starch-Infused Fries, 161Starch-Infused Ultrasonic Fries, 161

vanilla beansinfusing flavor into liquids from, 20, 27scraping seedpods of, 48Vanilla Olive Oil Powder, 207

veal. See also oxtailBraised Veal Foreshank, 89breast of, best bets for cooking, 86Brown Veal Stock, 11cooking sous vide, best bets for, 68shank of, best bets for cooking, 86Sous Vide and Pressure-Cooked Veal

Breast with Bulbous Vegetables, 91veal heart, cooking sous vide, best bets for, 96veal liver, cooking sous vide, best bets for, 96veal marrowbones

Bone Marrow Custard, 276Constructed Veal Cream, 300Turbot with Onion and Marrow Broth, 76

veal stock, best bets for, 6–7veal sweetbreads

cooking sous vide, best bets for, 96Crispy Sweetbreads, 100Sous Vide Veal Sweetbreads, 99Sweetbreads with Sour Mango Powder and

Shiitake, 97veal tongue

brining, best bets for, 103cooking sous vide, best bets for, 96Sous Vide Veal Tongue, 90

Vegemite, seasoning with, 21Vegetable Coals, 197vegetable jus, best bets for, 34–35vegetable stock

aromatics for, best bets for, 8best bets for, 6–7Sous Vide Vegetable Stock, 13

vegetables. See also greens; root vegetables; specific vegetables

acidities of, 278chips made from

best bets for, 162puffed, 162

compressed and impregnated, 195–199best bets for, 195

cooking sous vide for purees, 144–145best bets for, 144

vegetables (continued)cooking sous vide in sugar syrup until

tender, 146best bets for, 146

cooking sous vide until tender, best bets for, 138, 139–142

cooking sous vide with fat, 143–144best bets for, 143

dehydrating, 185–187best bets for, 185formulas for, 186

fibrous, best bets for microwaving, 157freeze-drying, 58, 188–190

best bets for, 188prefreezing temperature for, 59

heat-sensitive, cooking sous vide, 147best bets for, 147

microwaving, 157–158best bets for, 157

purees of, dehydrating using microwave, best bets for, 157

Ramen Vegetables, 61Root Vegetable Jus, 36Sous Vide Vegetable Jus, 36

venisoncooking sous vide, best bets for, 68tartare, best bets for, 64Venison Loin Rossini, 69

verjusConstructed Red Wine Glaze, 24for lowering pH, 22

vermouthBrown Butter Fumet, 26infusing flavors into liquids with, 24

Versawhip, for thick foams, 322Versawhip 600, Barbecued Eel with Whipped

Caramel, 327Veyrat, Marc, 311

Citrus Air recipe, 312Halibut in Verbena Bubble recipe, 273Mushroom and Bacon Cappuccino recipe,

320Truffle Jus recipe, 212

vin jauneinfusing flavors into liquids with, 24Sauce Vin Jaune, 308Smoked Potatoes with Vin Jaune Sabayon,

184vinaigrettes

Invincible Vinaigrette, 306Mustard Vinaigrette, 308Passion Fruit–White Soy Sauce Vinaigrette,

23vinegar, 23

concentrations of, 23eggs coagulated using, best bets for, 234Elder Flower Vinegar, 23for lowering pH, 22Seaweed Vinegar, 23sherry, Sherry Gel Cube, 267Spiced Walnut Vinegar Gel, 262Tomato Vinegar Foam, 315

Viscarin TP 389, Lemon Strips, 228vital gluten, in cocoa tajarin, 191vitamin C. See ascorbic acidvitamin E. See alpha tocopherolvodka

Buddha’s Hand Vodka, 47for extracting flavor with alcohol, 26Fines Herbs Extract, 27Hazelnut Oil Extract, 26House Bitters, 27for washing citrus oil, 26

Vongerichten, Jean-Georges, 311Spiced Chili Oil recipe, 29Sweetbreads with Sour Mango Powder and

Shiitake recipe, 97Tuna Ribbons with Ginger Marinade

recipe, 116


WAFERSWWwafers, produce dehydrating formulas for, 186Wakuda, Tetsuya, Steelhead Trout Confit

with Fennel Salad recipe, 77walnut oil, in Broccoli and Hazelnut-Oil

Puree, 56Warm Potato and Pistachio Pesto Salad, 215wasabi, Shigoku Oyster with Fizzy Grapes,

Fresh Wasabi, and Miso Powder, 63water bath

Asparagus Royale, 241Boeuf en Gelée, 277Cauliflower Crème Anglaise, 235Chawanmushi, 242Coarse Fat-Gel Sausage, 136Crispy Dosa, 181Deviled Eggs, 233Egg Blossom, 232Egg Salad Sandwich, 238French Scrambled Eggs, 240Fresh Cheese Curds, 247Fried Chicken Sausage, 137Hot and Cold Tea, 286Idiazábal Gnocchi, 258Low-Fat Chicken Sausage, 136Molasses Butter, 29Olive Oil Gummy Worms, 267Parmesan Crème Brûlée, 237Pickled Quail Eggs, 234Rare Beef Sausage, 137Salmon Custard, 253Smoked Octopus, 123Suet Mousseline, 325Sweet Pea Clusters, 284

water chestnuts, Quail with Apple-Vinegar Emulsion and Water Chestnuts, 73

watercressCreamed Watercress, 56puree of, best bets for cooking watercress

for, 144watermelon

acidity of, 278chips made from, best bets for, 162compressing/impregnating, best bets for,

195smoked, best bets for, 183Watermelon Chips, 162Watermelon Meat, 197

watermelon rind, Watermelon Rind Kimchi, 175

Waters, Alice, Razor Clam with Sauce Verte recipe, 85

water-vapor oven. See CVap ovenwax beans, yellow, Fresh Bean Salad, 141waxy corn, thickening with, best bets for, 200wet cures

best bets for, 102phosphates in, 102

wet-rendering, Fried Chicken Sausage, 137wheat, thickening with, best bets for, 200wheat pasta, dough for, best bets for, 191

whey protein concentrateCheddar Soup, 301Cheesy Whip, 301for constructed cheeses, 299

whey protein isolatefor airs, bubbles, and froths, 312Cappuccino Foam, 315Constructed Veal Cream, 300Hazelnut “Cream,” 310Horchata (Chufa Milk), 228Horchata Foam, 316Saffron Honey Foam, 314Shrimp and Grits, 190Tomato Vinegar Foam, 315

Whipped Butter, 329Whipped Cheese, 317Whipped Yogurt Crisps, 333whipping siphon

Aerated Chocolate, 349Aerated Gruyère, 348Baked Potato Foam, 324Blood Orange Sabayon, 318Boudin Blanc, 131Carbonated Mojito Spheres, 291Cauliflower Foam, 326Cheesy Whip, 301Chestnut Cream, 328Chestnut Puffs, 336Coconut Chutney Foam, 325Corn Foam, 318Cryopoached Green Tea Sour, 332Dairy-Free Whipped Cream, 326Eggplant Foam, 324Fizzy Grape Fluid Gel, 289Freeze-Dried Carrot Foam, 340French Scrambled Eggs, 240Fried Egg Foam, 326Frozen White “Truffle,” 198Grapefruit and Black Pepper, 321Green Tea Cake, 333Gremolata Crisp, 346Hot Butter Foam, 324Hot Egg Mayonnaise, 303Lemon Verbena and Peach Froth, 318Microwaved Pistachio Sponge Cake, 333Mushroom and Bacon Cappuccino, 320Oyster Beignet, 166Oysters with Cava Foam, 327Poached Apple with Pecorino Foam, 320for set foams, 330Siphoned Soufflé à la Lorraine, 338Sous Vide Sole with Bergamot Sabayon,

319Suet Mousseline, 325for thick foams, 322Uni with Whipped Tofu and Tapioca, 328Whipped Butter, 329Yakitori, 115Yogurt Foam and Sweet Potato Chips, 329Zucchini Blossom Beignets, 341

whipping wand, handheldfor airs, bubbles, and froths, 312Citrus Air, 312

whipping wand, handheld (continued)Coconut-Lobster Emulsion, 319Geoduck with Seawater Foam, 314Horchata Foam, 316Milk Foam, 317Oysters with Mignonette Air, 313Parsley Foam, 313Saffron Honey Foam, 314Shigoku Oyster with Fizzy Grapes, Fresh

Wasabi, and Miso Powder, 63Stable Latte Foam, 350Tomato Vinegar Foam, 315

whisk, electricfor airs, bubbles, and froths, 312Barbecued Eel with Whipped Caramel, 327Chocolate Chantilly, 322Hot Apricot Marshmallow, 334for light foams, 316Pork Loin Roast, 94for set foams, 330Soy Sauce Cloud, 339for thick foams, 322

whiskey, infusing flavors into liquids with, 24white beans, cooking under pressure, best bets

for, 149white cabbage, Sous Vide and Pressure-

Cooked Veal Breast with Bulbous Vegetables, 91

White Coleslaw, 302White Grape Syrup, 213White Lily brand flour, about, 336White Stock, 6white wine. See also vermouth

infusing flavors into liquids with, 24Risotto Milanese, 153

whitefish, cold-smoking, best bets for, 120whole egg batter, best bets for, 163wild rice

puffed snacks made from, best bets for, 342risotto using, best bets for, 152Socarrat Tuile, 345

Wiltshire tank cure, best bets for, 102wine. See red wine; white wine; specific kinds

of winewine filter, Tomato Water, 40wine press, Jus de la Presse, 34winter squash. See also specific kinds of squash

puree ofbest bets for, 55best bets for cooking squash for, 144

Wolfert, Paula, Duck Leg Confit with Pommes Sarladaises recipe, 105

Wondra, thickening with, best bets for, 201Worcestershire sauce, seasoning with, 21

I N D E X 3 9 9

ZUCCHINI BLOSSOM BEIGNETS ZXxanthan gum

Aerated Foie Gras, 348Aged Rare Beef Jus, 216for airs, bubbles, and froths, 312Almond Polenta, 207Apricot and Jasmine Puree, 217Baked Potato Foam, 324Barbecued Eel with Whipped Caramel, 327Basic Mayonnaise, 303Blood Orange Sabayon, 318Boeuf en Gelée, 277Brown Butter Fumet, 26Carbonated Mojito Spheres, 291Chawanmushi, 242Chili Pearls, 265Citrus Air, 312for coating gels, 269for cold gels, 260Constructed Veal Cream, 300Corn Foam, 318Creamed Spinach, 215in curry sauces, 223Deep-Fried Brussels Sprouts, 159Edible Soap Bar with Honey Bubbles, 314Eggplant Foam, 324Escolar with Red Wine Butter, 75for fluid gels, 285Foie Gras Cherries, 270Freeze-Dried Carrot Foam, 340Green Mango and Cashew Salad, 223Green Olive Meringue, 339Green Pea Wafer, 186Gruyère Spheres, 293Halibut in Verbena Bubble, 273Ham Broth, 16Ham Consommé with Melon Beads, 211Hazelnut “Cream,” 310Horseradish Foam, 327Hot Banana Gel, 280for hot fruit gels, 279for hot gels, 274Hot Green Apple Gel, 280Invincible Vinaigrette, 306Jerusalem Artichoke Pudding, 202Jus Gras, 310Knot Foie, 264Lemon Verbena and Peach Froth, 318for light foams, 316Liquid Pimento Olive, 294Low-Fat Chicken Sausage, 136Mozzarella Balloons, 249Mushroom Ketchup, 217Mussels in Mussel Juice Spheres, 294Mustard Vinaigrette, 308Oyster Beignet, 166Oysters with Cava Foam, 327Pressure-Cooked Polenta with Strawberry

Marinara, 214Prosciutto and Melon “Raw Egg,” 295Salmon Custard, 253

xanthan gum (continued)Salted Caramel Apple Puree, 145Seaweed Tapenade, 218for set foams, 330Shellfish Custard, 276Shiitake Marmalade, 216Soy Sauce Cloud, 339for spherification, 290Spice Mix Emulsion, 309Sunny-Side Up “Eggs,” 268Sweet Pea Clusters, 284Tamarind Puree, 218for tender edible gels, 229for thick foams, 322for thickening cold liquids, 211for thickening hot liquids, 210Tomato Whey Broth, 212Turbot with Onion and Marrow Broth, 76Uni with Whipped Tofu and Tapioca, 328in wheat pasta, 191Whipped Yogurt Crisps, 333White Grape Syrup, 213XO Sauce, 213Yuzu and Kumquat Marmalade, 181

XO Sauce, 213Deep-Fried Custard, 255

YYakitori, 115yams, Japanese, cooking sous vide with fat,

best bets for, 143yeast batter, best bets for, 163yellow squash


139yellow wax beans, Fresh Bean Salad, 141yogurt

Whipped Yogurt Crisps, 333Yogurt Foam and Sweet Potato Chips, 329

Yuzu and Kumquat Marmalade, 181

ZZhu, Mrs., Microwaved Tilapia with Scallions

and Ginger recipe, 92zucchini

acidity of, 278cooking sous vide, best bets for, 147cooking sous vide until tender, best bets for,

139frying naked, best bets for, 159preserving, best bets for, 182

Zucchini Blossom Beignets, 341

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