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›› I N S E A S O N 4 8

›› C AT E G O RY F O C U S 5 0

›› TO O L S / S E R V I C E S 5 4

›› S E R V I C E S H O R T S 5 5

›› T R E N D T R AC K E R 5 8

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›› P R E S S P L AY 6 2

A L S O I N S I D E

Colored gemsare shiftingtoward vividhues and beinggiven a boost by

the Retro trend. As this fashionmovement rolls back thedecades, modest deep colorswill be combined withflamboyant coral, turquoise,tourmaline, tanzanite or zirconto give old looks a modern spinfor spring 2008. — paul holewa

NEWARRIVALS

COLOREDSTONE

JEWELRY

PERFECTHUE

THE ENSEMBLEThis suite of AGTA SpectrumAward jewelry includesRobert Wander’s (WincCreations) 18K-yellow-goldlizard brooch set withsapphires, garnets chocolatediamonds and coral; ShantDakessian’s (Simone & Son)platinum and 18K-yellow-gold cufflinks set with greentourmalines and naturalyellow diamonds; and 18K-yellow-and-white-gold earrings from YankeDesigns set with removablegold zircons, goldtourmalines, chrometourmalines and diamonds.

brooch

$12,000*

* Except where noted, all priceslisted are suggested retail prices

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MODEL'S NAME: JESSICA ROFFEY

MODEL'S AGENCY: WILHELMINA MODELS

PHOTOGRAPHER: JACK DEUTSCHIMAGE COURTESY OF AMERICAN GEM TRADE ASSOCIATION

cufflinks

$10,000 earrings

$5,150

PRODUCTS › SERVICES › LA

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REBECCA A steel and bronze

bracelet set withamethyst, peridot

and iolite. From theSt. Tropez Collection.

$545 (310) 319-9600

ARTISTRY, LTD.Fourteen-karat chain-like links formdouble teardrops holding facetedcognac quartz stones (total length34mm).

$306(888) 674-3250

ACLEONI DESIGNSThe Opal Diamonds Collection features opal triplets madeby fusing opal and natural quartz, such as this 12mm roundsample fused with faceted rose quartz.

$299 (800) 654-3424

COLORED STONE JEWELRYUNDER $500

PRODUCTS › SERVICES

JUDITH BRIGHTFrom the RockLessCollection, this 14K-yellow-gold Lots O’ RocksNest Ring is set withprasiolite (“greenamethyst”).

$178 (615) 269-5600

SIMON GOLUB & SONS

This 7-inch sterlingsilver bracelet features

an 18K-yellow-goldsetting for a 10mm by

8mm oval peridot.

$395 (206) 762-4800

SUSAN BLOND The center stone for this 14K-white-goldring is a 19mm by 15mm oval chocolatequartz done in a checkerboard cut. The ringis set with chocolate and white diamonds.

$2,799(212) 333-7728

PRODUCTS › SERVICES › LA

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CLAUDIA ENDLERDESIGNSA 38-carat radiant squarecitrine set in 14K whitegold and worn on a multi-strand stainless steel wirenecklace.

$5,000(323) 225-5924

JULIE BAKER DESIGNS This Tuscan Lace 18K-yellow-goldbangle bracelet is set with a large pieceof blue chalcedony.

$5,250 (212) 966-6771

PARLÉFrom the Stones That Speak! Memories byParlé collection comes this 14K-white-goldnecklace with a pendant set with sapphires,tsavorite garnets and diamonds.

$1,149(800) 635-9800

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COLORED STONE

JEWELRYk $1,000-$5,000

ASCH/GROSSBARDTThis bracelet, ring and earrings are set withtiger’s eye, onyx and diamonds (designs areavailable in 14K and 18K gold).

bracelet

$2,800

(800) 543-2724

ring

$3,500earrings

$2,000

PRODUCTS › SERVICES › LA

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MAHLIA COLLECTIONThe Daphne ring is made of 18K yellow andwhite gold and is set with an oval black opaland diamonds.

$10,800(520) 791-3081

COLORED STONEJEWELRY

k OVER $10,000

LENA SKLYUT A 200-carat rutilated quartz and sapphire accents (4.0 TCW)are set in an 18K-yellow-gold and 925 sterling silver bracelet.

$12,000 (718) 840-9775

GUMUCHIANThe Bubble ring is craftedin 18K white gold and setwith a 6.40-carataquamarine center stone,and features diamond andaquamarine accent stones.

$10,000 (212) 593-9888

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LATA K DESIGNSFrom the Taj Collectioncome these 18K-yellow-gold drop earrings set withrubies, sapphires, emeraldsand diamonds.

$12,125(917) 405-5202

GURHANKnown for his 24K-yellow-gold pieces, this SleepingBeauty turquoise necklacefrom the Turkish-borndesigner features largesamples of fine turquoise.

$18,000(877) 447-4692

WILLIAM HENRYSTUDIOThis ornate pocket knifefeatures a 45-layer patternedDamascus steel blade, shakudogold mokume, snake wood,carved silver and more.

$350 (888) 563-4500

DAVID SHANO A men’s pendant and necklace designfeaturing a 925 silver pendant setwith a black diamond (1.0 TCW) on aGreek leather cord.

$450 (480) 988-2129

PRODUCTS › SERVICES › LA

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BRIDESMAID/GROOMSMANk SPECIAL SECTION

DELAFÉEINTERNATIONAL SARLDeLafée offers a hand-rolledDominican cigar wrapped in 24Kgold leaf and presented in anengraved stainless-steel tube.

$79 contact@delafee.com

KELLY WATERS This stainless-steel money clipis done in a brushed finish andfeatures gold highlights.

$55 (800) 647-7017

THISTLE & BEE The EnamelCollection includeshand-enameledsterling silverdesigns inspired bynature and the spiritof the great outdoors(pictured here is apointer hunting dog).

$250 (212) 594-0418

PRODUCTS › SERVICES › L

REMBRANDT CHARMSRembrandt’s Catching the Bouquet bracelet

features eight wedding-day charms(available in silver, gold plated, 10K and 14K

yellow and white gold).

sterling silver

$200 (800) 242-7699

KC DESIGNS From KC Design come these 14K-yellow-gold Diamond Disc initialpendants set with diamonds (.09TCW).

$610 (800) 552-3790

EK DESIGNS This sterling silver bridesmaidbracelet features blackSwarovski crystals (other colorsavailable), white pearls, sterlingsilver beads and a bridesmaidcharm.

$120 (781) 383-6878

SARENA TRAVERFrom Sarena Traver’s JeTalia Collection come these Synchro hairpins in18K yellow and white gold set with small round brilliant diamonds.

yellow gold

$1,300 1-877-JETALIA (538-2542)

white gold

$1,400

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11 CATHERINE ANGIELPENDANT & NECKLACEPRODUCT: The “MOTH-ER” necklace is from thegraffiti-inspired“Renegade” Collection.SALES PITCH: The necklaceis done in 14K white goldwith a black rhodium fin-ish set with diamonds(.60 TCW).TELL ’EM THIS: AncientHindus believed dia-monds were created bybolts of lightning.SUGG. RETAIL PRICE:

$2,500CONTACT: (212) 924-4314

2 BARRY KRONENDESIGNS CHARMPENDANTPRODUCT: 18K-gold photocharms from the design-er’s BabyliciousCollection. SALES PITCH: This uniqueline uses individual babyphotos to create a per-sonalized, 3D one-of-a-kind charm.TELL ’EM THIS: The pen-dant can be sold with a16-inch 18K yellow goldand pearl chain for anadditional $705SUGG. RETAIL PRICE:

$2,200CONTACT: (800) 440-1243

3 SENTIMENTALSILVER PENDANT &NECKLACE

PRODUCT: Sparkle Petitependants set with CZs.

SALES PITCH: CZs areavailable in light pink,pale blue, crystal clearand synthetic dark bluesapphire.

TELL ’EM THIS: Each puresilver (.999%) pendant ismade completely by handusing recycled silver.

SUGG. RETAIL PRICE: $75

CONTACT: (602) 317-7796

4 KIM FRACZEKEARRINGS PRODUCT: Hand-blownglass earrings featuringnatural rubies and wornwith an 18K yellow goldwire.

SALES PITCH: Ruby isJuly’s birthstone.

TELL ’EM THIS: Ruby wasdeemed to be the mostprecious of gemstones bythe Bible and ancientSanskrit writings.

SUGG. RETAIL PRICE:

$1,000

CONTACT: (646) 387-3180

5 SMART MOMPENDANT

PRODUCT: Siliconeteething pendants, meas-uring 2 inches by 2 inch-es.

SALES PITCH: Available ineight colors: amethyst,rose quartz, pearl, onyx,moonstone, turquoise,jade and coral.

TELL ’EM THIS: The prod-ucts are made from afood-safe, non-toxic, non-latex, phthalate-free,dishwasher-safe, federal-ly-approved silicone.

SUGG. RETAIL PRICE: $18.90

CONTACT: (866) 521-9680

6 MA-STYLEPENDANT & NECKLACEPRODUCT: 14K-gold pen-dant and necklace design.SALES PITCH: The “Mama”pendant’s brushed finishgives it a delicate yet edgylook.TELL ’EM THIS: The priceincludes a 16-inch cablechain with lobster clasp.SUGG. RETAIL PRICE: $223CONTACT: (917) 208-9433

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I T ’ S A $ 1 6 B I L L I O N pie of which flowers and “a special meal” take thebiggest slices. But not far behind — at a little over $2 billion — comesjewelry, making Mother’s Day a significant event on any jeweler’s calen-dar, whether they be moms or not. “Mama” or some variant is usually thefirst word a baby learns to say, making it a good start for a piece of jewel-ry that says much more. For the more linguistically precocious child (orfather, who is likely to be picking up the bill), the word “Mother” fash-ioned in an edgy font set with diamonds could do the trick. Anotheroption is photo pendants, which can be customized in gold and set withgemstones. And finally for the mother who can’t stop worrying aboutJunior’s grazing and hiding habits, non-toxic, lead-free silicone jewelrythat can survive a round with the dishwasher. Whatever the gift, it’s fromthe heart, and that’s all any mother can ask for.

I N S E A S O N : M OT H E R ’ S DAY

A gift of jewelry is always near mom’s heart.

MOTHER LOVE

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POINTS TO REMEMBER

3 Stringency. Sometimes adiamond’s grade may beborderline. “When that is thecase, we grade moreconservatively, which meansthat any consumer buying adiamond with our gradingreports can be assured thatthe quality stated in the reportmatches the quality of thediamond.” — American GemSociety Laboratories

3 Objectivity. Is the gradingreport from an independentlaboratory, unaffiliated with amanufacturer or sightholder?— AGS Laboratories

3 Speed. How fast does it getthrough the lab? — JerryEhrenwald, president ofInternational Gem Institute

3 Reputation. “The retailerwants to issue a documentthat’s well recognized, easy tounderstand and one thatguarantees the grading.” —Ehrenwald, IGI

3 Innovation. GIA createdthe Four Cs — color, caratweight, clarity and cut,universally recognized as thefactors determining diamondquality. In the case of standardround brilliant cut diamonds,GIA created a new cut gradingsystem based on the relation-ship of the proportions of the

diamond to its face-upappearance. — GemologicalInstitute of America

3 Colored stones. Look forauthentication reports thatconfirm the stone is a genuineruby, emerald or sapphire anddetermine whether and how ithas been treated. A morecomprehensive option is anorigin report, which confirmsthat an emerald is Colombian,for example. — Doug Hucker,CEO of American Gem TradeAssociation

3 Archives. The reportshould be availableindefinitely in the lab’sdatabase. — Ehrenwald, IGI

3 User friendliness. Thelaboratory should be able toanswer consumer questionsdirectly by phone or e-mail. —Ehrenwald, IGI

3 Support. GIA’s RetailerSupport Program, forexample, offers free tools andpromotional items retailerscan use to relay diamondinformation to theircustomers. — GIA

3 Display. At AGTA, a super-premium package includes aleather or linen-bound bookthat spins an entire storyabout a special gemstone,usually a ruby, sapphire oremerald. — Hucker, AGTA

CATEGORY FOCUSGEM LABS

TESTED LABSMANY GEM LABS are adept at issuing quality reportsof a diamond’s color and clarity. So how do youchoose one? It’s service, marketing and educationthat set the best laboratories apart, says RandyWagner, president of Gem-Ex, which specializes inlaboratory reports based on light performance.“Look beyond the report,” he says. They also have aresponsibility to the consumer to explain what theyare doing and why. “You’re looking for a partner.You’re not looking for a supplier.”

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PRODUCTS › SERVICES › LA

category

vendors

ACCURATE GRADINGQUALITY ASSURANCE(AGQA)info@agqa.com (866) 999-2472

2 AMERICAN GEMSOCIETY (AGS)LABORATORIESwww.agslab.com(702) 233-6120

4 AMERICAN GEMTRADE ASSOCIATION(AGTA)GEMOLOGICAL TESTINGCENTERwww.agta-gtc.org (212) 752-1717

AMERICANGEMOLOGICALLABORATORIES (AGL)aglgemlab@aol.com (212) 704-0727

EUROPEANGEMOLOGICALLABORATORY (EGL USA)www.eglusa.com (212) 730-7380

GEM CERTIFICATION &APPRAISAL LAB (GCAL)www.gemfacts.com(212) 869-8985

3 GEMEX SYSTEMS, INC.www.gemex.com (262) 242-1111

1 GEMOLOGICALINSTITUTE OF AMERICA (GIA)www.gia.edu (800) 421-7250

GEMOLOGICAL SCIENCEINTERNATIONAL (GSI)www.gemscience.net (212) 207-4140

GEMWORLDINTERNATIONALLABORATORIES (GIL)www.gemworldlabs.com (212) 354-5185

INDEPENDENTGEMOLOGICALLABORATORIES (IGL)www.dia-lab.com(212) 382-0008

INTERNATIONALGEMOLOGICAL INSTITUTE (IGI)www.igiworldwide.com (212) 753-7100

LABTRADE GEMOLOGICALLABORATORYwww.lglab.com (702) 220-5500

PROFESSIONAL GEMSCIENCES INC.www.progem.com (888) 292-1888

WORLD GEMOLOGICALINSTITUTE/ISRAELDIAMOND INSTITUTE(WGI/IDI)www.israelidiamond.co.il support@israelidiamond.co.il

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