il august issue2011

August 2011 Vol.31 No.4www.InternationalLiving.com

Easiest Places in the World to Retire

How to Buy a Beach House in Brazil for $15,000

Fly Free—An Airfare Junkie’s Guide

Pick an Offshore Haven—7 Tips

Trek Bolivia’s Unknown Inca Trail

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INSIDE THIS ISSUE

Plus GLOBETROTTER

LIFESTYLE PROFILES

CALENDAR

REAL ESTATE

CLASSIFIEDS

LIVINGLIVINGI N T E R N A T I O N A LI N T E R N A T I O N A L

7 “EASY” SPOTS TO LIVE

IN OVERSEAS, P. 18

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AUGUST 2011 I N T E R N A T I O N A L L I V I N G 1

From the Editor 2 Why “easy” destinations make sense

International Dates 3 Drink beer, fling tomatoes, race pigs

Savvy Traveler 5 An ancient village of classic France

Market Watch 6 How to get a beach home in Brazil for $15,000

Retirement Lifestyle 8 “Why we’re raising our daughter in colonial Mexico”

Living the Dream 9 Retirement adventures in Ecuador, Nicaragua and Honduras

Travel for Free 12 An airfare junkie’s guide to flying for free

Health 13 A new smile, a Costa Rican vacation and savings of $8,600

Solutions 14 Tips for creating your own business overseas

Insider Intelligence 15 The insider’s guide to enjoying Santiago, Dominican Republic

Real Estate 16 Revealed: Nicaragua’s latest beach bargains

Cover Story 18 Seven easy, affordable retirement spots

Investment 22 How to profit from power in Brazil

Offshore 23 What to ask yourself when choosing an offshore haven

Exploration 24 Discover Boca Chica, Panama’s still-hidden paradise

Entrepreneur Profile 26 Tapping into the middle-class market in Ecuador

Calendar of Events 27 Explore the secrets of Costa Rica

Travel 28 Wandering Alfama: Lisbon’s oldest neighborhood

Travel 29 Trek Bolivia: A Machu Picchu alternative

Property Picks 30 Vacation homes close to the U.S.

Classifieds 33 Opportunities from around the world

The Last Word 36 Is the easiest place the right place for you?

International Living (ISSN 0277-2442), © Copyright 2011 by International Living Publishing Ltd. All Rights Reserved. Protected by copyright laws of the United States and international treaties. This Magazine may only be used pursuant to the subscription agreement and any reproduction, copying, or redistribution (electronic or otherwise, including on the world wide web), in whole or in part, is strictly prohibited without the express written permission of International Living Publishing Ltd., Elysium House, Waterford, Ireland. International Living is published monthly. Subscriptions: In the United States US$69 for one year, in Canada C$89 for one year, elsewhere US$89 for one year. Printed in the USA. Postmaster: Send address changes to International Living, International Living Publishing Ltd., Elysium House, Ballytruckle, Waterford, Ireland. Copies of this magazine are not available on newsstands but are furnished directly to the public by mail subscriptions only. International Living presents information and research believed to be reliable, but its accuracy cannot be guaranteed. There are many dangers associated with international travel and investment, and readers should investigate any opportunity fully before committing to it. How to contact us: Customer service: To place an order for a product/subscription, renew a subscription, pay a maintenance fee, change an address, follow up on the status of an order, or inquire about a missed issue, etc., see: www.internationalliving.com/about-il/customer-service. Editorial offi ces: Editors, International Living, International Living Publishing Ltd., fax (353)51-304-561. For our writers’ guidelines, see: www.internationalliving.com/about-il/write-for-il. International Living is happy to receive manuscripts on speculation, but the publisher cannot be responsible for unsolicited manuscripts received for review. All editorial requests will be reviewed and considered when we plan our issues. Not all requests, however, can be answered personally due to the volume of inquiries we receive. Media inquiries: For all press and media enquiries and to discuss syndication, contact Associate Editor, Carol Barron, tel. (772) 678 - 0287, email: [email protected].

ContentsAUGUST 2011

INTERNATIONAL LIVING

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2 I N T E R N A T I O N A L L I V I N G AUGUST 2011

August 2011, Volume 31, Number 4 InternationalLiving.com

Founding Publisher William BonnerPublisher Jackie Flynn Executive Editor Jennifer Stevens Managing Editor Eoin Bassett Editorial Assistant Robert CarryCopy Editor Glynna PrenticePhoto Editor Hugo GhiaraWeb Master Ciaran McGrath

Contributing Editors Bob Bauman, Darius Fisher, Lee Harrison, Steenie Harvey, Suzan Haskins, Chris Hunter, Paul Lewis, Rob Marstrand, Ronan McMahon, Erika Nolan, Glynna Prentice, Dan Prescher, Jessica Ramesch, Margaret Summerfi eld Advertising Margaret O’Dowd fax (353)51-304-561 email: [email protected]

Why You Should or Shouldn’t RETIRE SOMEPLACE “EASY”

HE EASIEST PLACES IN THE WORLD TO RETIRE” didn’t strike me as controversial. So the riot of emails from our editors surprised me.

This one lobbied for destination A. That one countered with B. And a third stood fi rm: Why are we telling people

to take the “easy” route anyway? It’s overrated. (This last line of thinking unfolds in full on page 36.)

Me? I think when it comes to living overseas, it makes sense to pick a place where some “expat infrastructure” exists. Especially if it’s the fi rst time you’ve done it and you’re considering the “developing” world (because that’s where the best values are). I’m talking about restaurants, shops that stock a few familiar items, comfortable apartments or houses for rent, access to good healthcare, and a certain proximity to “home,” too.

When you have those things, life is easier. And that frees you up to enjoy it more. I guarantee: Wherever you go, the local understanding of time, quality, and effi ciency will not match what you’re used to. But when you’re living in a nice home and you can go out for a good meal and you sometimes bump into a fellow expat on the street…well, those inevitable frustrations loom less large.

I speak from experience here. Fresh out of college, the Peace Corps dropped me in a sandy village at the northern tip of a down-and-out island between Madagascar and Mozambique. Suffi ce it to say: No “expat infrastructure.” At 22, I didn’t care. Heck, I’d signed up for the adventure. But I have to be honest, two years in… I was desperate for water that came out of a tap, milk that wasn’t powdered, and just a little bit of conversation in my mother tongue…

So I stand by the destinations we bring you this month on page 18. In these—the easiest places in the world to retire—life is just convenient enough that you can relax and enjoy the adventure…

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Jennifer Stevens, Executive Editor

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INTERNATIONAL DATES

Drink Beer, Fling Tomatoes, Race Pigs

In the West, we have Valentine’s Day. In Hong Kong, they have the Seven Sisters Festival. Kicking off on the seventh day of the seventh moon (August 6), single

girls attempt to woo potential suitors by weaving, offering fruit, and waving incense near the famous Lover’s Stone.

Forget Oktoberfest—the International Berlin Beer Festival is August 5 to 7. The event claims to feature the world’s biggest beer garden, at an impressive 1.3 miles long. Along with live bands, food, and 2,000 beers, the city expects over 800,000 visitors, so be sure to get your seat at the table early.

If you can’t make it to Germany’s capital, head to Manching August 26 to 29 for Barthelmarkt, another beer festival and fair with roots traceable to the 1st century BC.

August 10 to 12 and 25 to 27 Sanlúcar de Barrameda in Cádiz province, Spain, hosts horse racing on the beach. Racehorses gallop along the mouth of the Guadalquivir River in front of thousands of onlookers. This thrilling spectacle has taken place since 1845.

Embrace the bizarre at La Pourcailhade in Trie-sur-Baise, France, a day-long pig-centric event. Held on August 14 and organized by the Brotherhood of the Pig, the festival celebrates everything porcine. We’re talking sausage displays, pig races and, most famously, a pig-squealing championship where competitors make pig noises for prizes.

Las Morismas de Bracho—a re-enactment of a battle between Moors and Christians—takes place August 28 to 30. This event, strangely popular among both Mexicans and visitors, dates back over 300 years. The event features costumed warriors staging a theatrical battle in the city of Zacatecas, in Mexico’s Colonial Highlands. This city, once the silver-mining headquarters of colonial Mexico, is now a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Here is one for the world’s tomato lovers—La Tomatina starts on August 31 in Buñol in the province of Valencia, Spain. This town of 9,000 swells with over 30,000 visitors for an hour-long tomato fi ght.

Eid Ul-Fitr, celebrating the end of Ramadan throughout the Muslim world,

falls on August 31 this year.Guadalajara International Mariachi

& Rodeo Festival will be held the fi rst week of September. The world’s diaspora of mariachi singers is set to converge on Jalisco’s capital state (and the capital of mariachi) for this week-long celebration.

The Birdsville Races will be held September 2 to 3 in the Simpson Desert in Queensland, Australia. With a history dating back to 1882, the event features 12 horse races and prizes of upwards of

$110,000.September 15 is Costa Rican

Independence Day. Expect parades and kid-friendly festivities to mark the day this country gained independence from Spanish rule in 1821.

Fiesta San Miguel starts September 29 in Uncía, near Potosí, Bolivia, and features Tinku dancing; a form of dance combat particular to the region. Beware—the cavorting can get dangerous.

IL’s Best

The mountain of El Misti stands over the town of Arequipa in Southern Peru.

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• Antigua, Guatemala

• Arequipa, Peru

• Concepción, Chile

• Córdoba, Argentina

• Cuenca, Ecuador

• Guanajuato, Mexico

• León, Nicaragua

• Loja, Ecuador

• Morelia, Mexico

• Xalapa, Mexico

university towns. From the cobbled lanes of Antigua, Guatemala, to the canal-bank walks of Córdoba, Argentina, these towns don’t just offer you a great lifestyle but a lower-cost of living, too.

And there’s something for everyone on this list… If you like mountains, then try Loja, Ecuador, 6,700 feet above sea level in the Andes, with an average temperature of 60 to 69 F. For botanical delights and ancient Olmec wonders, check out Xalapa in the Mexican state of Veracruz, and if you fancy a new cuisine culture, try Alpaca steaks in the southern Peruvian town of Arequipa. For more information on all of our picks, see: Intliving.com/unitowns.

Almost anyone who’s ever lived in a university town can tell you that they offer a great quality of life. All those

students keep the town vibe young and lively. And a good university practically guarantees plenty of culture, from concerts and dance to art exhibits, theater, and lecture series (a great way to practice your foreign-language skills if you’re an expat). Plus, depending on the university, you may even fi nd good sports facilities…and a decent local team to support. Thanks to these benefi ts, university towns can offer you big-city sophistication with small-town friendliness and convenience.

That’s why we asked our editors and experts to select 10 of Latin America’s best

By Darius Fisher

Our 10 Favorite University Towns in Latin America

By the staff of International Living

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Take WiFi with You

Despite leaps in technology, getting fast, reliable wireless Internet service while traveling can still be a hassle. That’s changing, though. And the MiFi device is at the forefront of this revolution.

The MiFi creates a portable wireless hub by connecting to the local 3G cell-phone network. With the click of a button this gadget (about the size of a thick credit card) boots up in 30 seconds and allows you and up to fi ve others to surf the web.

On a recent trip to Ireland, IL Editor Darius Fisher rented one of these devices from Xcom Global. For $17.95 per day, the company sends you the device, a charger, and all the AC converters you’ll ever need in a handy pouch. When he arrived at his B&B in Dublin, Darius booted up the MiFi. Almost instantly he had a WiFi signal. And Xcom’s convenient service allows you to connect without a cell phone contract or data limits.

The drawback of Xcom is that you need multiple MiFi’s if you’re going to travel to multiple countries. But if you’re in need of reliable WiFi on the road, Xcom Global’s rental service is an excellent option. See: XcomGlobal.com.

GLOBETROTTERNews & Notes from Around the World

On the Cover This Month…

G ranada, Nicaragua, is among the hemisphere’s most beautiful and original Spanish-colonial settlements. Granada Cathedral has towered over its historic center since 1583. Traditional, courtyard-style

colonial homes line its colorful network of narrow streets and alleyways. But Granada’s colonial charm belies a surprising collection of 21st-century

delights hidden among the adobe façades and leafy courtyards. As ox carts slowly pull their burdens along the streets outside, you can enjoy international restaurants and cafés, practice yoga, study Spanish, and even shop for English-language books…

A well-established and upbeat expat community here can attest to the many benefi ts of living in Granada. And, in fact, we’ve chosen it as one of the world’s easiest places to retire… Read more on page 18. The cathedral in Granada, Nicaragua, anchors a bustling plaza.

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Florida to Mexico by Ferry

Next time you’re planning a trip to the white-sand beaches of southern Mexico, forget the stresses of fl ying and travel in Old-World style on a relaxing ocean cruise instead. United Caribbean Line has announced plans to run a car and pedestrian ferry between Tampa, Florida, and an unnamed port somewhere on Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula.

Details haven’t been fi nalized, but service is due to begin in early 2012. The ferry will be able to handle 1,000-plus passengers, hundreds of cars, and will take around 30 hours to cross the Gulf of Mexico.

During 2002, Yucatán Express ran a line between Tampa and Cancún and then Mérida. However, service halted in early 2003. United Caribbean will charge $350 for a round trip with a cabin and meals.

Easy Panama Banking

Opening a bank account as a non-resident American has become harder in recent years. Banks that accept U.S. deposits are burdened with extra paperwork by U.S. tax offi cials. Some banks just stopped accepting altogether. But HSBC in Panama will open accounts for non-residents and Panamanian companies. Other jurisdictions may offer stronger banking-secrecy laws, but Panama still makes good sense if you’re simply interested in having part of your wealth outside the States.

HSBC offers multi-currency accounts, mortgages, international bank wires, auto loans, and credit and debit cards, all within a user-friendly Internet banking interface. The minimum initial deposit is $1,000 and must be made by certifi ed bank check. Deposits of over $50,000 must be accompanied by documents proving the origin and purpose of funds. And for larger deposits, the bank may request an in-person interview. To open an account, each signatory must provide copies of his or her passport and driver’s license and bank and personal reference letters along with the application. See: Hsbc.com.pa.

Free Layovers in Panama

In an effort to attract more globetrotters to Panama, Copa Airlines and the country’s tourism department are giving Copa passengers with connecting fl ights at Tocumen International Airport the opportunity to stay over in Panama for no additional cost.

According to stats provided by the airport, almost 1.5 million people made connections between January and September of last year. To take advantage of this promotion, all you need to do when booking your fl ight is tell Copa that you’d like to stay over a few nights and explore Panama.

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Belizeans party for most of September every year.

Nosing around Bergerac

The Savvy Traveler’s Corner

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Belize—It’s One Big Party

F riendly, English-speaking locals, exotic wildlife and an implausibly beautiful coastline… Belize has a lot to recommend it at any time of year. But if it’s a party you’re

after, then September might just be the best month to visit. The Caribbean country marks its independence with a full

three weeks of celebrations leading up to Belize Independence Day itself, which falls on September 21. In other words, almost the entire month of September is one big party.

Things really kick into gear on September 10, the fi rst national holiday of the month—the Battle of

St George’s Caye Day. Cities and towns erupt into a riot of color as Belizeans and visitors of all ages take to the streets to celebrate the country’s history, music, culture and food. Good deals on accommodation shouldn’t be hard to fi nd as it’s storm season.

A string of events take place including the “Queen of the Bay” beauty pageant, a carnival, parade, children’s talent show, fi rework display and range of live musical concerts.

Buildings are decorated in the red, white and blue of Belize’s fl ag while partygoers dance and sing day and night to soca and punta music—so don’t expect too many early nights.

“A celebration of history, music, culture, and food.”

So this is his mighty protuberance. It’s impressive. But although the lovesick Cyrano de Bergerac found it hard to get the girl, a nose that size must be useful for sniffi ng out

delectable wines and cheeses...This is the second Cyrano statue I’ve found within fi ve minutes.

I’m in Bergerac, a medieval town in the Dordogne departement of Aquitaine, France. Although neither the fi ctional nor the real Cyrano de Bergerac (a Parisian duellist, libertine and satirist) has any connection with the town, locals have enthusiastically adopted him.

I walk down through the old quarter toward the Dordogne River. It’s a meander through streets of stone and half-timbered houses that once belonged to boatmen and barrel-makers. Everywhere breathes history; most corners are scented with fl owers. One especially charming spot is Place Pélissière where medieval merchants once traded animal skins and leather around its fountain.

Bergerac isn’t unknown to foreign visitors—Bordeaux is only an hour’s drive west—yet I haven’t heard any American accents. But if classic rural France appeals to you, check out this part of Dordogne valley. Chateaux (castles) and “time-stands-still” villages wait around almost every bend of the river. The land is striped with sunfl ower fi elds and vineyards that produce the heady scarlet-purple nectar of Bergerac appellation wines.

You’re also spoiled for choice for good restaurants. Many offer a menu du jour—a set three-course lunch for around $17. For a splurge, a lovely place for dinner on a summer evening is under the mulberry trees in Le St Jacques’ enclosed garden (30, rue Saint James). The grilled duck breast with a sauce of Agen prunes and thyme-fl avored summer vegetables is sublime.

On Wednesdays and Saturdays, the countryside comes to town. At the outdoor market wrapped around the church of Notre Dame, you’ll fi nd melons and sweet garriguette strawberries...duck products such as foie gras and confi t...walnut oil and artisan-made bread...more types of sausages and cheeses than you ever imagined. Many stall-holders offer free tastings.

For travelers, Bergerac makes a great base for exploring. For home-hunters, too. I’ve spotted a number of village houses with gardens in this area for $196,000 to $290,000.

Steenie Harvey

The old market square of Place Pélissière, Bergerac.

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MARKET WATCH

Buying a $15,000 Beach House in Brazil Isn’t Easy—Here’s How

He probably had the same fi sh for lunch. They may have even come from his nets.

A short dune-buggy ride up the coast takes you to another boutique hotel. A night’s stay here could set you back $1,500. That’s how stunning this coast is. Stylish Europeans choose to vacation here over their rivieras. Some stay on permanently and serve gourmet meals or open little posadas.

The village roads here are of well-maintained cobblestones. A team of men is busily working on upgrading the town center and building a new community area. The village is safe and the locals friendly. Close by, I spot one of these little concrete village homes. “Vende-se” (for sale) and a phone number are written on the wall. It’s the same type of house as the one I walked past, but

Lagoinha, Brazil, is just one of the country’s many stunning beaches.

By Ronan McMahon

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Broad petals explode in orange and red up the freshly painted wall. This little home, a labor of love, fronts onto a small

fl ower garden in the shade of palm and fruit trees.

As I stroll past en route to a neighboring boutique hotel, I peer through the front door. I can see the ocean through the house, sparkling and glinting in the sun. Only a few palm trees and some grasses separate this house from the beach. A couple repair fi shing nets in the shade. An older man sways in a hammock. Behind, children on the beach control a soccer ball...barefoot... This is Brazil, after all.

The beach here, west of Fortaleza in the country’s northeast, is wide and white. The ocean is blue and ideal for swimming, snorkeling and kite surfi ng. This is a great place to kick back for a day…or longer.

Next door (there are no high walls) a young English couple hosts honeymooners and kite surfers in their boutique hotel. They searched Brazil’s coast before planting their fl ag here. My lunch of freshly-caught fi sh on their beachfront deck is outdone only by the views and sounds of waves crashing on sand. The only interruption is the odd kite surfer drifting by. The neighbor in his hammock has the same view.

without the tender care and attention. A quick call to the vendor and we

learn the asking price is $15,000. Wow. A home in a safe, charming beach village for $15,000. Admittedly it’s in need of some attention. The front of the house could do with being blasted by a powerhose and then caressed with a paintbrush. Inside, the concrete fl oor and walls could be brought to life with colorful local tiles. The roof looks okay, but best to come back during the next downpour and see how it is holding up.

But this is an anomaly. In the game of international real estate we look for anomalies: Things that are misunderstood or under-appreciated. We can profi t from these anomalies. I was here looking at the site for a planned new condo project. This fi nd was an unexpected discovery. It felt like I was drilling for oil and struck gold. Pure gold…

How to Profi tThe beaches west of Fortaleza in

northeast Brazil stretch to the horizon. You can drive for hours along these beaches.

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North Atlantic Ocean

Lagoinha Cumbuco

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You are only interrupted where little rivers meet the ocean. Here a local is always on hand with a makeshift ferry to pull you across. Charming fi shing villages with cobbled streets and well-maintained town centers sit just off the beach. You’ll struggle to fi nd more charming beach towns than Cumbuco, Paracuru, Lagoinha or Guajiru where this little village home is.

The beaches around Fortaleza are Brazil’s biggest domestic tourism destination. Brazilians typically vacation to the east of the city. They prefer to be in gated communities away from these little villages. They don’t want fi shermen for neighbors. They want to vacation or have a weekend retreat somewhere that will elevate their status. They don’t see any value in these little homes.

Buying one isn’t easy. To fi nd one that’s for sale you need to pound the streets and knock on doors. To buy you have to respectfully sit down over ice-cold coconut water with the owner. He needs to like you—or he either won’t sell or will double the price.

It’s because of this anomaly that we have this opportunity. These little homes are misunderstood, underappreciated, and buying them takes some work.

Europeans and North Americans would buy these little homes as a second home or for retirement if it was made easy for them. Today, the foreigners who buy here buy mostly in beachfront condo projects. Here, a nice condo of 800 to 1,000 square feet overlooking the water will set you back $250,000 or more. And, you’ll also have monthly maintenance fees of around $150.

Many of these homes that come on the market are in need of some work. That’s something few second-home buyers here want to take on.

On a recent Real Estate Trend Alert scouting trip our group was buzzing with ideas on how we could profi t from this anomaly.

First, we could buy one (or more) of these little homes and wait for them to come in vogue. But the real opportunity is for someone to come down here, buy a bunch of these little homes, renovate them and market them to foreigners.

Renovation costs of course will vary based on the condition of the house (the foundation and roof in particular) and the standard you are aiming for. Find a house

Brazil’s Best Beach Towns

Cumbuco is a special little beach town. The pace of life is slow. The streets are lined with little fi sher-

men’s homes. Blooming fl owers crawl over freshly painted exteriors. For neighbors, the fi shermen’s homes have Italian restau-rants, a German grill, a trendy kite-surfi ng shop, and beach bars where bronzed adventurers come to enjoy caipirinhas at sunset to the soft melodies of chill-out tracks.

Miles of white sand beaches stretch out, uninterrupted, east and west of here. This is the type of beach town I’d expect to fi nd way off the beaten track. But in Cumbuco we are only 30 minutes from downtown Fortaleza (Brazil’s #1 domestic tourism destination) with her shiny board-walk. Standing on the white sand beach at Cumbuco…where I have seen baby turtles take their fi rst staggering steps toward the water…if you look to your right, you can see Fortaleza’s glimmering skyline. The international airport is 35 minutes away.

A bit farther down the coast and still less than an hour from downtown Fortaleza is the fi shing village of Taiba. The locals are used to sharing their village with outsiders. First, wealthy Brazil-ians from Fortaleza came to build their

When Ronan McMahon isn’t scouting for Pathfi nder, IL’s preferred real estate advertising partner, he’s heading up the Real Estate Trend Alert. To follow real estate trends with the potential for profi t and to access his recommenda-tions and advice, see: Intliving.com/Reta.

in pretty good structural condition and $20,000 will convert it into a burst of color and charm. An authentic fi sherman’s village home. Most of the work will be cosmetic—with some plumbing upgrades and checks

on the electricity to make sure the wiring is okay. It won’t be the Four Seasons but we (members of Real Estate Trend Alert) all agreed it would be plenty comfortable for us.

You could make a killing during the window of time until the locals catch on that these homes have a serious value to us.

Or maybe you might just want to learn from the wise old local: Buy one for your own enjoyment and sway in a hammock overlooking your million-dollar view.

On my last visit to these fi shing villages, I noticed that foreigners had started on renovation projects. Some for homes. Others on conversions to little boutiques and even a trendy beach bar. In Paracuru I saw a beach bar right on the sand. The asking price was just $20,000.

Make Money from the World’s Real Estate Trends

weekend homes on the beach. In more recent years, northern Europeans (mostly Norwegians) have come to escape the Scandinavian winters. Boutique restau-rants and hotels have opened as more visitors arrive.

Taiba has gained a reputation as a gourmet location. Restaurants are high quality and very affordable. Taiba even has an annual food festival, which attracts over 10,000 visitors. Yet Taiba retains a quaint fi shing- and beach-town feel.

Fifteen minutes in a beach buggy (on sand) from Taiba you’ll fi nd the beach town of Paracuru. The coast is different here from that of Taiba and Cumbuco. It’s sheltered, protected from the trade winds by giant dunes...and the land is elevated from the shoreline of sandy beach and low cliffs. The best swimming beaches are here.

Paracuru’s town square of imposing church and open-air cafes and restaurants sits above the beach. There’s oil offshore. The royalties and salaries earned from the oil pay for a clean town of cobblestone streets and brightly-painted shops and homes. It’s pretty and relaxed…yet undis-covered by foreigners except for a group from Poland.

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RETIREMENT LIFESTYLE

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Every day, I walk to work past houses framed with bright bursts of fl owers, whose owners unfailingly smile and call out a greeting. Walking

along a country lane, I pass a fi eld where horses graze in the sun.

I have moved to Chia, Colombia, 45 minutes north of Bogota. After half a year in Caracas, Venezuela’s capital city, I am ready for some quietude. And I’ve found it here, in a town of 60,000, where roosters serenade me and motorcycles seem non-existent. Most people here cycle.

In the old-city area, large, ornate gates lead into the main plaza. The square features a church dating from the 1800s and numerous shops and cafés where you can while away the hours. The past is still vividly present in the downtown streets, which are lined with simple one-story buildings topped with ornate tiled roofs and brilliantly-colored fl ower planters.

Leaving Venezuela, I sought to know another face of Latin American culture. From the Andes to seaside towns, larger cities to the indigenous of the Amazon region, Colombia is vast and diverse.

Before moving to Chia, I worried about Colombia’s security, as Colombia had a reputation for high crime. But the security

money here. The demand for English teachers is high and growing.

At about 8,000 feet, most days in Chia are pleasant jacket-weather, neither blisteringly hot nor suffocatingly humid. When the sun shines strongly, it’s short sleeves time. But it’s comfortable as there are no mosquitoes and no pollution. The tap water is drinkable and market produce is cheap, local and fresh.

Renting a quite-livable apartment costs from $200 to $400, depending on where you want to live and how luxurious the set-up is. My $100-per-month apartment is clean, equipped with a kitchen, and, to my joy, is at the end of a country lane. I visit local shops for my needs, and fi nd there healthy local spinach, carrots, beetroots, garlic, eggs, juicy mangos, crisp apples and fl avor-packed bananas.

The bakeries have baguettes, whole-grain rolls, and a variety of cakes, buns and specialties for the sweet tooth. Street shops specialize in cheese arepas (grilled corn bread) and meat-fi lled empanadas (stuffed and fried turnovers). Fruit here is so cheap that I can just blend my own juices at home, and at cafés I sample the tasty Colombian beers.

Colombian coffee, renowned world-wide, is inexpensive: 50 cents for a strong, delicious cup. In Venezuela I battled with bitter coffee and overly-chilled Internet cafés. But in Chia, nobody needs air conditioning. And for $1, I can spend an hour in a comfortable café using reasonably quick Internet and drinking great coffee.

When not teaching, I pass relaxing days walking, reading in cafés and practicing my beginner’s Spanish with friendly locals. The dialect is slower and easier to understand than in other countries, making it easier for me to progress. I’ve found Colombians to be down-to-earth and friendly, ready to laugh at any moment.

Because Chia is centrally located, I can hop into Bogota for city life, or explore beyond central Colombia. In just a few hours, I can visit the seaside or travel north to hot springs.

Surrounded on two sides by mountains, the landscape here is the perfect remedy to my big city blues, stresses, and fatigue. I now have work, security, and the time to watch horses graze, sip a beer, and enjoy life as it passes by.

situation has improved markedly in recent years, and I feel safer here than I have in other Latin American countries. I take leisurely walks and explore back streets and country lanes without hesitation.

Colombia is still one of the cheapest countries in Latin America, which is another reason I have relocated here. With the low cost of living, I can teach English a mere two hours a day and earn enough to pay my bills. That leaves me ample time to explore and relax. And should I wish to teach more hours, there’s plenty of opportunity to do so. I could easily earn—and save—more

Colombia’s Remedy for the Big City BluesBy Eva Bartlett

The church of Cerro Monserrate in the hills above Bogota, not far from the town of Chia.

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With Our Child in Colonial Mexico

know he’s in Mexico. For international assignments, Tim prefers to skip the international airport at León, only half an hour away, and instead opts to take the bus directly to the Mexico City airport. The bus trip is about fi ve hours, costs less than $50—and gives him access to the country’s largest airport.

Donna has taken advantage of the university in Guanajuato this past year. She hasn’t offi cially enrolled; rather, she takes advantage of a quid-pro-quo program the university’s language division offers. In exchange for volunteer work—she takes part in an English conversation class once a week for students—she’s allowed to use the facilities herself.

Things started coming together career-wise for Donna after about six months in Guanajuato. She explains, “People found out that I was a trainer, I met people in the gym…and before that I didn’t really pursue it. There wasn’t the need for me to work here as I do in the States. Opportunities fall into your lap or become obvious and you think, ‘oh, I can do this.’”

The couple promised Alina that they’d only be abroad a year, so they’re returning to the U.S. this summer when Alina’s school year ends. They’ll relocate to Tampa, Florida, near where Donna’s family lives, and enroll Alina in middle school.

“Knowing what I know now, when I come back to Guanajuato, I’ll defi nitely note on the expat boards that I’m here. I know what I’d charge for training now.” Donna’s also considering getting certifi ed in zumba and spin, since these exercises are popular.

The couple is planning to return in two years’ time for Alina’s 8th and 9th grades, and Donna has made the rounds of the private schools in Guanajuato to check them out.

At this point, however, the Leffels assume that Alina will do her high school studies, and then college, in the U.S. For that reason, Donna plans to fi nd out what the U.S. curriculum is for the 8th and 9th grades—the years Alina will study in Guanajuato—to make sure that their daughter covers all those topics. Alina will be home-schooled for anything not covered at the local Guanajuato school.

Donna believes, however, that “the experience of living abroad is something you can’t replace.” Alina is “going to grow up with a much broader view of the world,” she says.

By Glynna Prentice

I think I’ve found our place.” That’s what Tim Leffel told his wife Donna after his fi rst visit to Guanajuato, Mexico.

As a young couple, Tim and Donna had traveled the world, primarily in Asia, teaching English to support themselves. When they eventually headed home to the

U.S., they knew that someday they wanted to live abroad again. That “someday” came after the arrival of daughter Alina: “We

wanted her to have the experience of living in another country,” says Donna. But they wanted the timing to be right.

Fortunately, the Leffels’ careers make living abroad easy: Tim is a travel writer, while Donna is a personal trainer. “Tim basically needs just a computer and a phone,” Donna explains.

Over the years, Tim’s job enabled him to check out possible places to relocate. On one assignment, he found Guanajuato…

This state capital in Mexico’s Colonial Highlands seemed to be what they were looking for. They liked that it’s a university town like Nashville, where they lived in the States, with plenty of young people and cultural activities.

As the expat community is small (around 500), they’d have plenty of interaction with Spanish-speaking locals, which they wanted. The convenient airport connections—there are three international airports within a few hours of Guanajuato—were a plus for Tim.

Since they’d lived overseas before, Donna says, they fi gured that “a month would be enough” to tell them if Guanajuato was right for them. So, in the summer of 2009, the family spent a month in Guanajuato taking Spanish classes… and they fell in love with the city.

The Leffels sold their house in Nashville and in late June 2010 moved to Mexico. They enrolled Alina in the Waldorf School—Colegio Yeccan Waldorf—in Guanajuato. (The monthly fees run them about $200, a fraction of what they’d pay in the U.S., they say.) There is also a Montessori School in Guanajuato for kindergarten through 9th grade, says Donna.

They signed Alina up for two months of Spanish classes in Guanajuato before the 2010/2011 school year began, a step Donna recommends to all parents of older children. Donna contends that starting school in another language “is different for a 10-year-old than for a fi ve-year-old.”

“People tend to have the conception that children pick up a language quickly. And while they do pick it up easier than an adult, there are people who come down here with kids and they’re like, ‘Oh, the kids will learn it in school.’”

Language prep made that transition much easier for Alina… “As unhappy as she was at losing her vacation to take Spanish lessons, she was so much happier when school started…it made her more comfortable,” says Donna.

Tim has continued his career as a travel writer in Guanajuato. Since his work is Internet-based, clients sometimes don’t even

“

Guanajuato is a university town where there’s lots to do.

“It’s going to make her more independent.”

PG8-9 Retirement Lifestyle b.indd 9 05/07/2011 16:28


“

LIVING THE DREAM

were back in the U.S. Okay, not having a shopping mall or a Walmart in the village helps with that statistic. It’s amazing how much one does not need when stuff and things simply aren’t available.

What would I have done differently? I would not have had a container-load of household goods shipped from Hawaii to Ecuador. I could have literally replaced everything at half the cost of shipping.

My biggest challenge in moving to South America has been learning the language, which is an absolute must if you wish to fi t into the culture. There is great beauty and a pleasant formality to the Spanish language. It’s worth taking the time to learn. My full-time Ecuadorian cook/housekeeper ($250 a month…less than I paid for electricity in Hawaii) helps me with my daily Spanish lessons.

“I Escaped the Boredom of a U.S. Retirement”Name: Ray Jackson Age: 74From: New York City Living in: San Juan del Sur, Nicaragua

For Ray Jackson, a former Los Angeles police offi cer and attorney, the pressing question was how to fi ll his time in retirement. The answer was life in Nicaragua.

Having closed his busy law offi ce as a sole practitioner in Redding, California, Ray’s plan was to do all the things he’d never had enough time to try—play music, write and travel.

Ray and his wife Donna started with a sailing trip. A stop in Nicaragua to visit his son led them to more visits, and on the third trip, the couple bought property.

Today they own a bed and breakfast called the Secret Cove Inn, right in the heart of San Juan del Sur, a tranquil fi shing village turned must-stop tourist destination. Ray takes legal cases he feels passionate about and is working on an ambitious construction project at his beachfront property.

“Retired life is much more energizing when you’re adapting to a new culture and every day is an adventure,” says Ray, who relishes how busy he is. Whether it’s the minor challenge of obtaining a rare piece of equipment to repair his boat, or entertaining the various guests who pass through his bed and breakfast, Ray admits life in Nicaragua makes him realize how bored he would have been if he’d retired in the U.S.

There’s a thriving expat community to socialize with in San Juan, and cocktails and sunsets to enjoy in front of the beautiful crescent-shaped beach.

Most importantly, Ray enjoys the free time he always wanted. That time is spent with family, friends and meeting travelers from around the globe. “I was fortunate because I planned fi nancially for a retirement where I wouldn’t have to work again,” says Ray.

“If I’d stayed in the States, I wouldn’t have been able to maintain this lifestyle with my current income.” He gives an example: A social evening out with cocktails and appetizers that would cost $50 in the U.S. can be enjoyed in San Juan del Sur for less than $10…and it comes with a much better view.

In the early mornings, you may encounter Ray in the local coffee shop and bookstore doling out free advice to travelers.

Finding Adventure in Retirement“Living in the Laboratory of Longevity” Name: Patrick Robinson Age: 83From: Kansas City, MissouriLiving in: Vilcabamba, Ecuador

“You’re out of your mind!” This was one of the milder things people said when I announced that after 30 years of living in the paradise of Maui, Hawaii, I was moving to South America. And at 80 years of age. Alone. Without speaking a word of Spanish.

It wasn’t as if I woke up one morning and said: “I think I’ll move to the Andes of Ecuador and live happily ever after.” Actually, I’d spent the previous four years traveling to some 12 different countries in search of my eventual retirement “Shangri-La.”

So what was I looking for in that multi-country exploration? An entrepreneurial haven without undue governmental intrusion in my life, where taxes and the cost of living were not as onerous as in Hawaii (which boasts one of the highest tax rates in the U.S. and basic living costs that are a minimum of 30% higher than in the rest of the country).

Perhaps most important of all, it would be somewhere that had the kind of healthy environment that would nurture mind, body, and soul. These were the factors that ended up making me ignore most of the world.

Why Ecuador and why the tiny village of Vilcabamba, hidden away in a valley deep in the Southern Andes? Simple answer: Sweet-natured, welcoming people and a place that is said to be a “living laboratory of longevity.” Vilcabamba reportedly has one of the four healthiest populations on earth. As an octogenarian, that was the clincher for me.

Vilcabamba satisfi es almost everything I had on my list of “druthers.” The climate is almost equal to that of Hawaii, and the people are just as friendly and hard-working as those I left. Most important, my living expenses are around a quarter of what they

Add life to your years and years to your life.”

Moving clear across the world to a new home need not be a daunting task. But it is not something to jump into blindly. I took the time to seek out the perfect place for me, which is what I would advise others to do also. It takes “boots on the ground” to check out the people and place of a prospective new home in making a decision like this. After reading about it in International Living, I visited Vilcabamba three separate times before making my fi nal decision. It turned out to be one of the best I’ve ever made.

My advice? It is never too late in life to take on a new adventure. You just need to fi nd a place that helps you add life to your years and years to your life. For more on my life in Vilcabamba, see: Valleyofl ongevity.com.

PG10-11 Living the Dream.indd 10 05/07/2011 12:30


“Often on Tuesdays he’s at the town’s open-mike night, listening to local musicians and to passers-through who bring with them anything from traditional Irish songs to folk music to sing-along covers.

On a practical note, Ray reports that, in his experience, health care in Nicaragua is effi cient and affordable. He sees a world-class periodontist in Managua who charges $40 for cleanings, and he says English-speaking doctors are easy to fi nd.

If you’re interested in retiring to Nicaragua or looking for a permanent move, Ray recommends establishing residency, which he says is relatively easy. “It’s a good life. Come down to Nicaragua, rent a place for four to six months and try it out.” – By Pha Lo

.“What Could be More Idyllic?”Name: Rosie Thornton Age: 52From: Alberta, Canada Living in: Trujillo, Honduras

I am on the front deck when two toucans fl y by weighed down by their awkward beaks. I’ve only ever seen a toucan on a Froot Loops box or caged in a zoo. I love being in Honduras.

Our house is on a mountainside two miles from the town of Trujillo, Honduras, on the north coast of the Caribbean. We are 900 yards from the beach. Out my kitchen window on a clear day—and they

are mostly clear days—I can see the island of Roatan, 43 miles away. Roatan is a prime scuba-dive destination, located at the south end of the second-longest barrier reef in the world. At Trujillo, we enjoy snorkeling, deep-sea fi shing, sea kayaking, kite boarding and all sorts of water sports, hiking up the mountain to the waterfalls...and lazing in the hammock.

How did a couple of Canadians from northern Alberta end up in Honduras? The cold and snow at home is why we ended up in a tropical destination on the warm Caribbean coast. My husband and I bought a one-third-acre-lot in January 2008 for $28,000, and by July 2010 our three-bedroom, 1,440-square-foot house was complete.

In Honduras, homeowners get certifi ed title to their property. Construction of the house, at $85 per square foot, was to North American standards. The temperature is a consistent 77 F year-round and the house is always cool.

We fi rst saw our lot in 2008 after hiking

high up the mountain through the trees and bushes. We were in awe at the spectacular ocean view. Now we drive up the curving mountain roads to our house. The breathtaking view still leaves us awestruck.

The beaches are white sand and pristine. The only footprints we see are our own. The water is a stunning turquoise and bathtub-warm; the ocean fl oor sandy. Palm trees wave in the breeze. What could be more idyllic than this? I gaze back up at our house; ocean and mountains are a perfect combination. We’ll follow up an afternoon of swimming and beach-combing by lying in a hammock under the covered deck. Cool evening breezes signal the end of a perfect day in the Caribbean.

The local people are Garifuna ( a Carib population of African ancestry), Mayan and Hispanic. They are lovely, warm, welcoming people. The local expatriate community is about 50 strong.

In grocery stores in Trujillo, six chicken breasts cost about $8, a 26-ounce bottle of rum is $4, a fi ve-gallon water jug is $1.25 and a good bottle of wine costs $4. The local markets feature locally-grown produce and fresh seafood. Bananas cost about 10 cents each, and vegetables are equally inexpensive. Cell phones cost about $20, and $5 buys 100 saldos (minutes), except on triple saldo days, when you get 300 saldos for $5.

There is a hospital in town and another one two hours away with additional emergency services to North American standards. Access to Health care is quick, and Canadian users of the local hospitals have had their own doctors in Canada remark that they would have done nothing different in providing emergency or other health services. Costs are a fraction of what you’d pay at home.

Lots of opportunities exist for entrepreneurs here since the area is just beginning to develop. Construction on a double cruise ship port began in Trujillo in April 2011. It’s an extremely deep water port able to accommodate cruise ships that hold up to 6,000 passengers.

The climate, pristine beaches, warm ocean, tropical and exotic fl ora and fauna, a relaxed pace of life, friendly local people, the strong expat community and entrepreneurial opportunities all drew us to Trujillo. Plus, we feel safe here. And life moves at a slower pace, which allows us the opportunity to stop and appreciate the small things.

Relaxing at Tranquility Bay Resort after kayaking near Trujillo, Honduras.

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PG10-11 Living the Dream.indd 11 05/07/2011 12:31


TRAVEL FOR FREE

simple, right? That’s what

I thought until I explored deeper. I found people buying coinage from the U.S. Mint with their frequent fl yer credit card. Others were churning cards—opening a card for a specifi c promotion and then weeks or months later cancelling it and then reopening the card to again cash in on the promotion. And some doing all of the above!

If this sounds appealing to you, check out the FlyerTalk forum “Miles Buzz.” There you’ll fi nd over 250,000 posts about promotions available, all updated by airfare junkies in real time. Nothing gets by these guys.

Getting Bumped IntentionallyAirlines often overbook fl ights. Their statisticians predict how

many passengers will show up at the gate, and they overbook fl ights to maximize revenue. But when these number gurus fail, airline

staff scurry to fi nd passengers willing to board the next fl ight.

In exchange for this inconvenience, airlines compensate fl yers. On a recent fl ight to London, Virgin offered me a free round-trip ticket to anywhere in the world, a night in a hotel, and meal vouchers if I took a fl ight the next day. Here are a few tips to getting bumped intentionally. • Arrive early, be fl exible, and ask politely if any volunteers are needed.• Choose the airline carefully. According to the

U.S. Department of Transportation’s February 2010 Air Travel Consumer Report, Delta, Southwest, American, United, and US Airways have the highest instances of voluntary bumpings.• Travel in the mornings, Sunday evenings, or during holidays to popular destinations. Historically, this is when you’re most likely to get bumped.• Travel light. Airlines give priority to passengers with no checked baggage.• Book the whole itinerary with one agency. If you opt to buy two separate tickets, airlines won’t take responsibility for the second leg of the journey. So even if you get bumped, you’ll still need to re-book the connecting fl ight (at your expense).

No one said getting a free fl ight would be easy, but if you have the time and the determination, fl ying for free can be done.

Wondering what the Pudding Guy did with 12,150 pudding cups? He donated them to charity and got a tax write-off.

Ever heard of the Pudding Guy? His name is David Phillips and among airfare junkies who lurk on FlyerTalk.com, he’s a legend. In 1999, he spotted a promotion: In exchange for every 10 Healthy Choice brand barcodes it received, the company would reward

500 frequent fl yer miles. So he bought 12,150 pudding cups. A few months later, Healthy Choice sent him 1.25 million

frequent fl yer miles. The cost was just $3,150. To this day, no one’s ever topped the Pudding Guy and his

creamy bounty. But that doesn’t mean these mileage maniacs aren’t trying. And FlyerTalk.com is their home.

I discovered this discussion board and knowledge base while researching fl ights to Europe. A simple query brought me to the site, but the airfare expertise of these schemers sucked me in. I soon learned their lingo and some interesting, albeit time-consuming, ways to fl y for free and earn perks in the air.

Mileage RunningMileage runners book long, inexpensive fl ights to maximize

frequent fl yer miles. So instead of fl ying from, say, Los Angeles to Chicago, a dedicated mileage runner might add connections in Houston and Atlanta. Or if the price is right, one might take the same fl ight three times in a day to rack up miles.

The ultimate goal is twofold: Accrue enough miles to travel for free. And, more importantly, vault the mileage runner into the status of airline elite, giving him access to fi rst-class upgrades, the coveted airport lounge, meal vouchers and the pleasure of skipping the security queue.

If you have some time on your hands, fi guring out the perfect mileage run is like solving a puzzle.

First, head to FlyerTalk to learn the basic jargon (Flyertalk.com/glossary). Then pick the airline frequent-fl yer-miles program you’re going to use. Once you’re ready, search for cheap fl ights from your home city. Next, fi gure out the full fares and airline routing rules of the fl ight.

When you’ve found a fl ight that abides by airline rules, use ITA’s Matrix Trip Planner (matrix.itasoftware.com) to build your itinerary and then book your airfare either through the airline or Orbitz.com, which is powered by ITA. Finally, prepare to soar all the way up to elite level status.

Accrue Credit Card MilesIf fl ying from airport to airport is not how you want to spend a

weekend, an easier option is to accrue miles with your credit card. You already know how the system works. You spend money on

your card. You earn miles. You redeem the miles for fl ights. Pretty

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An Airfare Junkie’s Guide to Flying for FreeBy Darius Fisher

“Don’t check any luggage.”

PG12 Travel for Free.indd 12 05/07/2011 15:46


clinic spoke English. Telma Rubenstein—half of the husband-and-wife team at Prisma—talked with Alan on the phone and the treatment plan from the U.S. dentist was emailed for her to review.

Her explanation of the work involved, and her additional suggestions, gave us confi dence. Her open, professional manner, knowledge, and ease of discussing the issues convinced us that this was the right place. And her quote of $11,600 made the decision to move forward even easier.

Run by Telma and her husband, Dr Josef Cordero, the Prisma Dental Clinic has been in operation for over 20 years. Crowns, bridges, implants, etc., are produced at the clinic, in their onsite state-of-the-art lab. A patient visitor service works together with the dental clinic. It can arrange hotel stays, transportation to the clinic, tours around the country, and pick-up and return to the airport.

We knew we would have a seven-day break between the initial phase and the completion of the job while the bridges and crowns were being produced.

For the entire trip, our extra expenses totaled $2,300; this amount included our airfare, food, hotel stays, and rental car for 10 days. So for a total of $13,900, we had a fabulous Costa Rican vacation and my husband got a new smile. And we saved

$8,600. Alan’s fi rst

appointment started off with panoramic x-rays, a discussion of the work to be completed and a timetable for procedures. He spent the second day in the dental chair. But thankfully the onsite lab had produced temporary dentures.

The second day the

HEALTH CARE

A Trip to Costa Rica and $8,600—Thank You Dr Cordero!

impressions for the crowns and bridges were created. This exacting process took a full day. Now done with phase one, we were ready to leave town. We had arranged to have our rental car delivered to the hotel the next day.

With guidelines from the rental agent, we headed for the Monteverde Cloud Forest. With our guide, Rodrigo, we learned about the fl ora and fauna of the

area. We were treated to sightings of both male and female quetzals, a spectacular bird to spot.

Our next stop, the Nicoya Peninsula, is one of the largest Blue-Zone areas in the world (regions where people commonly live

extremely long, active lives). Many of the locals live into their 90s and 100s. Their strong sense of community, mineral-rich waters, organic foods, and daily physical work (inherent in the lifestyle) all contribute to the longevity. We were there, though, to hang out on the beach, snorkel in the clear waters, and watch the surfers catch the waves.

Returning to San José, we made it back in town just in time for Alan’s afternoon appointment. The permanent crowns and bridges were put in place. In conjunction with this, they completed laser whitening on his bottom teeth so they would match his new upper teeth.

The following morning, Alan returned for a brief appointment. The dentists checked to make sure everything was perfect and gave him a mouth guard (to protect the crowns).

Leaving the country right after the procedure is not recommended, so hanging out on the Caribbean coast seemed like a perfect way to spend the time. Driving through the rain forest, rustic villages, and banana and pineapple farms, we headed to Playa Negra. Nestled between the black-sand beach and the jungle, our eco lodge provided a perfect ending to our trip.

ON OUR FIRST afternoon in San Jose, Costa Rica, we walked to the Mercado Central (Central Market), ordered

a fresh shrimp and avocado salad, and smiled at our good fortune.

As longtime IL subscribers, we knew there were places where we could not only save a lot of money on health care, but have a great vacation, too. We had traveled extensively in Mexico and Central America, but had missed out on Costa Rica. We decided this would be our opportunity to explore the country as well as take care of my husband Alan’s dental needs.

He has had serious dental issues for many years. Visiting a U.S. dentist, Alan got a quote of $22,500. The necessary work included 14 crowns, two root canals, and laser whitening.

Of course, going outside the U.S for dental work was still a little scary for us. Discussing our plans with friends reinforced our fears. “Why on earth would you want to go to Costa Rica for dental work? How can you trust the skills of the dentist there?”

But after doing the research we were determined. We read about the doctors, their training and experience. We decided on Prisma Dental Clinic in San José. (See: Prismadental.com). Past patient reviews posted on the clinic’s website raved about the quality of the work.

Alan speaks some Spanish, but it was important that most of the personnel in the

H

By Nancy French

“My husband got a new smile and we saved thousands.”

How Much Can You Save on Dental Care?

Procedure Cost in the U.S. Cost in Costa Rica Crowns $1,000-$3,000 $500-$650 Root canal $350-$1,000 $120-$300 Laser whitening $1,000 $300 Exam $75-$100 $35 Panoramic x-ray $100 $45 Implants $2,000-$2,500 $700-$900

PG13 Health Care.indd 13 05/07/2011 16:09


WHEN MY HUSBAND JAMIE and I left our U.S. home in Lake Tahoe, California for our new lives in Argentina, we were looking to learn a new way of life, meet new people and

explore a new culture. But we needed income, and both being entrepreneurial souls, we knew that to live our life to the fullest while living abroad we needed to create our own businesses.

In the past 12 years we’ve created and run nine successful businesses, from managing a vineyard in San Rafael to creating a bustling vacation-rental company in Patagonia. To say the least, we have learned a few lessons along the way. Here are seven tips to help you create your own successful business abroad…

1. Find your niche: As a person coming into a place from the outside you may discover that there are businesses “missing” from your new home. When we moved to San Carlos de Bariloche, Argentina, my husband and I realized that there was little English-language travel information on the Internet. We saw that the market was lacking a vacation-rental company catering to the needs of international travelers. So we set up Bariloche Vacation Rental, a company that has hosted guests from over 40 countries.

Upon arriving in your new land, start researching the business market. Look through the local paper. Evaluate pamphlets at the tourism market. Ask yourself: Is there a niche of the tourism market that isn’t being talked about? Do a Google search of the area in both the native tongue and other languages to see if there are opportunities just waiting to be marketed. Also, check to see if there are any items that may be of interest to export. Play to your new country’s strengths; this not only helps you fi nd a business of interest but it also helps the local community.

2. Learn the cultural necessities: It’s vital when creating a successful business to take the time to learn how the locals operate. Is it customary to kiss on the cheek instead of shake hands upon greeting? Is everything paid in cash?

For Jamie and me, life in Argentina taught us to take a more relaxed approach to business relations. We learned the importance of the siesta and family time between the hours of 1 p.m. and 4 p.m., and we went to a kiss-on-the-cheek greeting instead of a stiff handshake. This helped us build the foundation for positive business relationships.

3. Approach the locals: No one wants to look like a greedy foreigner trying to take advantage of their new home. Get to know the people in your town. Before setting up shop, have a wander through the area, chat with folks on

SOLUTIONS

Your Business Abroad: 7 Tipsthe street, the store owners, restaurant patrons. Other great places to integrate include farmer’s markets, local Facebook fan pages, clubs, activity groups and/or health clubs. And put in the time researching what other expats have learned while living in your chosen country.

It can help to offer a percentage of sales to locals that refer clients, or integrate a local nonprofi t into your business. In the rentals business, we paid 10% for any rental referral.

4. Use social networking: By using social networking as a tool, your exposure can go viral. Implement different real-time instruments such as blogging, Facebook, Twitter, StumbleUpon, and use relevant message boards. These are quick and easy methods to bring attention to your region and your business.

A great way to bring people into your circle is to offer free information, or contests with worthy prizes. For example, my husband and I wrote a restaurant guide for Bariloche that we offered free-of-charge on our vacation-rental website. When we launched the book, the networking sites helped create a buzz that brought about many bookings.

5. Create a good website: An easy-to-navigate site shows potential customers that you’re professional. Before building your company site, check out other websites that pertain to your niche. Can you showcase the business idea better? Is the company idea clear and concise on competitor sites? Can you help draw attention to the business with clever, clear content?

6. Keep connected beyond the computer: It’s also important to connect your business idea to the local community. One excellent way to do this is to volunteer. By helping the community, it shows that you are positively involved with the township, which leads to connections, which gives legs for your business to stand on. There is nothing quite as powerful as word of mouth for the successful future of a company.

7. Find good employees: As any business owner knows, a good employee is worth their weight in gold. In our vineyard we found that by showing our farm’s caretakers trust and respect—something that they had not experienced prior—we received two bonuses. One, excellent employees sought us out for employment. Two, it helped our farm production grow from a 2,000 kilo grape harvest our fi rst year to a 60,000 kilo harvest our third. Another way to fi nd dependable employees goes back to social networking. By demonstrating a community-based mentality when marketing our vacation rental property, we found that forward-thinking locals contacted us about jobs. In fact, one of our best team members, Marianna, befriended us initially on Facebook.

By Shanie Matthews

“You don’t want to look like a greedy foreigner.”

PG14 Solutions.indd 14 05/07/2011 15:29


SURROUNDED BY A RING OF MOUNTAINS in the lush Cibao Valley, Santiago makes the ideal staging point for a visit to the Dominican Republic. It’s the country’s second-largest city and a great place to discover Dominican culture. Unlike the famed

beach resorts of Punta Cana and La Romana, Santiago is not an international tourist spot. That means the food, festivals, and entertainment are still authentic and affordable. It also means you need an insider’s advice to fi nd the best things to do when you visit.

Here are nine tips to make the most of your stay in Santiago.1. The view: You don’t need an insider to point out the vast

white marble Monumento a los Héroes de la Restauración, but you could easily miss the four-story museum housed in its tower. Numerous exhibits describe the Dominican fi ght for independence from Spain. The top fl oor opens onto an observation deck where you can enjoy a panoramic view of the city and nearby mountains.

2. Crazy carnival: Travel guides say La Vega is the only place to enjoy Dominican Carnival, but insiders know Santiago puts on an awesome party each Sunday in February. Hundreds of people march and dance in a parade that goes on for hours. They wear traditional masks denoting rival neighborhoods and costumes covered with sequins, tiny mirrors, and appliqué. Enjoy local dance troupes as they strut behind pick-up trucks blasting Dominican rhythms.

3. Cheap eats: Vendors in Santiago serve up the best street food you’ll fi nd anywhere on the island. For less than $1 you can try crisp, fl aky empanadas—pastries fi lled with cheese or chicken—or try “pizza” and yucca balls stuffed with shredded meat. If you want

something a bit healthier, go for a quipe. The Dominican version of this tasty Middle Eastern snack combines spiced ground beef with bulgur wheat and fresh parsley.

4. Recreational retreat: If you’re worried about calories from an empanada binge, get some exercise at Pontifi cia Universidad Católica Madre y Maestra (PCMM). Walkers and runners work out every morning on the shady, rolling paths throughout the campus. You’ll fi nd basketball courts, tennis courts, and a track on the southeast side of the grounds. Don’t be put off by the guards at the gates. If you arrive via car, take the parking card they offer when you drive in and return it as you exit. Otherwise, just walk right in—it’s free.

5. Go fl y a kite: Spring breezes blow through Santiago in March and April and locals take advantage of the steady winds to launch kites of all shapes and sizes, locally known as chichiguas, into the clear blue skies. Each Sunday, the parking lots at the Monumento a los Héroes de la Restauración are full of children competing in a variety of kite-fl ying contests. Buy a kite from a vendor and join the fun every weekend until Easter.

6. Sports fanatics: Every sports fan knows that the Dominican Republic’s winter baseball league boasts MLB stars and hopefuls. You can catch the local baseball team, the Santiago Águilas (Eagles), playing at Estadio Cibao (Cibao Stadium) from mid-November until the end of February. What insiders also know is that basketball fans can root for the home team when the Santiago Metros play at Cibao. In addition, local basketball league games feature players of all ages shooting hoops for neighborhood pride on outdoor courts around the city.

7. Italian fl avors: Given the large number of “Dominican Yorks” who regularly travel between Santiago and New York City, it’s no surprise Santiago has great Italian food. Clustered near the Los Jardines neighborhood, D’Amici’s and Sabrass are two great dinner options. You can get ingredients to prepare your own feast at Punto Italia, a high-end Italian gourmet grocer.

8. Bachata and merengue: For music lovers, Santiago delivers. Enjoy live Latin sounds every weekend and dance with the locals. The beat is easy to follow and not just because the music is irrationally loud. Venues like Andy Randy and City Ranch post banners all across Santiago to promote upcoming shows. Internationally acclaimed musicians often take the stage.

9. Centro de León: Don’t miss this museum, funded by the Jimenes family, which owns Presidente beer and Aurora cigars. The trick to making the most of your visit? Spring for a guided tour from a museum docent—it’s a great way to learn about the history of the island and its people. The multi-lingual guides will also explain the evolution of the Jimenes’ art collection, which includes pieces by the best contemporary Dominican artists.

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Nine SantiagoSecrets froma D.R. Expat

INSIDER INTELLIGENCE

By Yana Beranek

The Perfect Location… Santiago sits about an hour inland from the north coast

beaches of Sosúa and Cabarete. And it’s about an hour from the mountain town of Jarabacoa, too, where people go to white-water raft, ride horses, and hike Pico Duarte, the Caribbean’s highest peak at a little over 10,000 feet. With an international airport 20 minutes from Santiago, it’s a great staging point for exploring the country.

Launch a kite on the spring breeze at the city’s Monumento a los Héroes de la Restauración.

PG15 Insider Intelligence B.indd 15 05/07/2011 17:07


I CAME AWAY FROM MY FIRST VISIT TO Nicaragua, in 2004, with a lopsided image of the coastal lifestyle in Central America’s largest country…an image based only on the southern Pacifi c coast and its network of luxury, planned communities designed specifi cally with

expats in mind.But it turns out—as I discovered on subsequent visits—there’s

another, far more “authentic” and affordable environment to explore along this country’s central and northern Pacifi c coast. I revisited two pairs of villages recently—near Managua and near Leon—to see how this area has fared in the last few years. The verdict? The values (and views) are more alluring than ever.

Masachapa and PochomilWhen I reached the coast at Masachapa, I was greeted by

a small, simple town mostly built around one street. Just 35 miles from Managua, it offers a good collection of markets and shops with girls selling handicrafts, while there are a couple of mouthwatering seafood restaurants along the beach.

The town has undergone a facelift since my fi rst visit in 2004, with many of the buildings spruced up and freshly painted.

The village of Pochomil, which adjoins Masachapa, feels less rustic and has a higher percentage of vacation homes and fewer full-time residents than its neighbor.

Pochomil’s most prominent commercial activity is still its string of large, open-air seafood restaurants on the beach. Here, families stake out an umbrella or table for the entire day, enjoying seafood delicacies, cold drinks, and protection from the sun while they play in the surf and sand.

The beach these towns share is wide and sandy—the widest I’ve seen in Nicaragua—running about 10 miles long. The sand slopes very gradually into the blue Pacifi c, which is calm and warm on this section of coastline…perfect for swimming.

The nearby luxury resort of Barceló at Montelimar and the former presidential seaside retreat both attest to this beach’s place in the pecking order of Nicaragua’s shoreline.

The Masachapa/Pochomil area is the nearest developed shore point to the capital of Managua and it’s the destination for many Managuans going on day trips to the beach. It also hosts many second homeowners, including a diverse mix of international residents.

Seaside Property PicksWe visited a good quarter-acre lot (1,000 square meters) a

couple of blocks from the beach with a wide ocean view for just $25,000. Right on the beachfront, we saw a small house on a treed lot with an asking price of $79,000. The house wasn’t worth much, but that’s a great price for a buildable beachfront site.

My favorite house was perched on a hill about a half-block from the beach. It featured three bedrooms and two baths, was nicely remodeled and had an awesome wraparound porch with a sparkling ocean view. The asking price was $149,000.

At the high end of the spectrum was a magnifi cent 3,700-square-foot home with fi ve bedrooms, four baths and three terraces in an upscale community within short walking distance of the resort at Montelimar. The asking price was $249,000.

Parts of this area are somewhat “Third-World,” so if you’re not accustomed to life in rural, Latin America, you need to check it out fi rst. Masachapa and Pochomil are not where you go to experience fi ne dining or to fi nd upscale shops and entertainment. But if you enjoy the company of friendly, laid-back people, the music of tropical birds singing in fruit-laden mango trees, and mouthwatering seafood served in open-air restaurants on one of Nicaragua’s best beaches, then Masachapa is the spot.

REAL ESTATE


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By Lee Harrison

Where to Find Nicaragua’s Beach Bargains

President Daniel Ortega is not a popular guy in the U.S. In 1979, he and the Sandinistas ousted the U.S.-backed dictator Anastasio Somoza, ending the longest dictatorship in Latin American history. When Ortega was elected president in 1984, President Reagan spent years trying to overthrow him…unsuccessfully.

In the elections of 2006, the Bush administration threatened Nicaragua with sanctions if the people elected Ortega again. The strategy backfi red, however, and Nicaraguans rallied behind Ortega. Not only was he elected, but a further re-election in the upcoming November 2011 poll is looking like a sure thing.

Although cast as a villain, by most accounts, Nicaragua has improved under Ortega’s tenure.

The electricity system is far more reliable, tourism is up dramatically, and the roads and infrastructure are noticeably better.

Health care has also improved, while the illiteracy rate has dropped 85%. School fees were eliminated, so now the poor can attend. Generally, people are happier with their government.

He certainly has detractors and opposition domestically, but today’s Nicaragua feels like a better place…both for Nicaraguans and expats.

THE DANIEL ORTEGA STORY

PG16-17 Real Estate.indd 16 05/07/2011 14:57


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Poneloya and Las Peñitas After my visit to Masachapa and Pochomil I was determined

to fi nd another similar setting, and that search led me to the small, one-lane towns of Poneloya and Las Peñitas.

Like their cousins to the south, they offer wide, sandy beaches, calm, warm waters, magnifi cent sunsets, and low property prices.

Las Peñitas echoes the positive changes I’ve seen throughout Nicaragua with its new sidewalks and curbs, a new coastal road and a number of pleasant hotels and restaurants. Its twin city of Poneloya retains a quieter, mostly residential feel but both are responding well to the upswing in tourism in the area.

Ten miles long, Masachapa beach near Managua is a perfect spot for swimming in warm, calm waters.

Real estate in MasachapaLong-time expat, Stonewall “Stoney” James, and his wife Von

discovered their paradise in Masachapa after living in 10 other countries. They operate the area’s premier real estate company, Solution 1 Associates, email: [email protected], website: RealtySolNicaragua.com.

SOME ESSENTIAL TIPS, TRICKS AND SECRETS

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To me, the best feature of these towns is their proximity to the large colonial city of León. It is located just 15 minutes away on a new, well-maintained road, so you could reside on the beach full-time with city conveniences within reach.

More Super Beachfront DealsPoneloya and Las Peñitas offer some great real estate buys.

We started with a visit to a large two-story, fi ve-bedroom, three-bath home on a nice lot right on the sand with an asking price of $195,000. Right next door, there’s a good building lot for $95,000.

The best value property we discovered was probably a $100,000 home on the other side of the beachfront road with an ocean view. It was in good shape, with fi ve bedrooms, four baths, service quarters, a caretaker house and laundry facilities—all on a large lot.

The best bargain in town was a simple two-bedroom, one-bath home just a half-block from the beach…for only $40,000.

For the potential developer (or someone who wants a big lot) there’s a 2.3-acre parcel for sale at the beach, bordering on an estuary, with fantastic views of both. It’s going for $240,000.

Poneloya and Las Peñitas are ideal for beachfront living and just under two hours from Managua’s international airport. They’re also a great second home option if you’re living in León, which is close by.

The authentic Nicaraguan beachfront experience won’t be for everyone. You don’t have the high-end amenities or luxuries of an exclusive gated community. This setting is for those expats who like making their own way as part of the local community.

But you can count on the beautiful, wide beaches, calm waters, affordable properties, and a low cost of living.

A worthwhile step in the buying processTitles on the coast of Nicaragua can be tricky and it’s critical

that you trace any title back to 1917 at a minimum. I recommend you seek out the services of a knowledgeable title consultant when buying. For expert assistance, I contact Tuey Murdock, at [email protected].

Real estate in Las Peñitas and PoneloyaExpat founders of Aurora León Realty, Jordan and Brooke

Clark (and baby daughter Nina), have made their home in León. Jordan served in the Peace Corps in Central America and fell in love with the region. Email: [email protected], website: NicaraguaRealEstateLeon.com.

Dining in MasachapaFor a great dining experience, try the brand-new Escuela de

Hostelería. It’s actually a tourism/hotelier school which offers a delicious menu of local and international cuisine in a tasteful, open-air setting. Its large, tropical-style rooms rent for $40 to $50 per night in the off season.



FEATURE STORY

We sold everything, started a new life in a new country and are

now ordinary people leading extraordinary lives. It was so much easier than people think,” says expat Darrell Bushnell.

Darrell and his wife Amy live in the colonial city of Granada, Nicaragua, on the shores of the largest fresh water lake in Central America. “We didn’t experience any culture shock here and the locals are gracious and gentle. This is a place brimful of opportunities for starting a business and enjoying social activities,” says Darrell.

Darrell and Amy are just two of the thousands of expats who have made a new home abroad in a place where it’s relatively easy to settle in.

Should that be your top priority when choosing a locale overseas? Not necessarily ©

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Seven Easy, Affordable Retirement Spots

Retiring overseas doesn’t have to be hard, in fact, it can be easy in places like Roatan, Honduras (above), or Panama City (right).

By the Staff of International Living

(see page 36). But there’s a strong case to be made for communities where the welcome mat is out for expats and your new adventure can begin with a minimum of frustration.

What makes a place “easy?” First, it’s not too far from home. If you need to get back for an emergency or friends and family want to visit, it’s not a chore. When you can still get many of the same goods and services you’re used to, culture shock won’t disorient you. When there’s at least a small expat community already established, it means you can make friends in your own language and you can ask questions of folks who have “gone before you.” That increases your comfort level exponentially.

In a place that’s “easy,” you can rent a home or apartment you’ll be comfortable living in, and that means you can take your

new life for a test drive. And an “easy” place offers good, affordable healthcare… restaurants…and things to do.

All the places we highlight here meet those criteria. Yet they’re hardly cookie-cutter destinations. And you won’t mistake any of them for Kansas. They each have their individual appeal. What they have in common is that they’re all places where you can settle in easily…and start enjoying your new life fast.

Live Lakeside in Mexico Lake Chapala, Mexico, is arguably the

easiest place in the world to adjust to life as an expat. This area offers all the charm and romance you love about Mexico…but with the U.S.-style conveniences and support systems to make your transition a snap.

Lake Chapala is in central Mexico,

“

PG18-21 Cover Story B.indd 18 05/07/2011 16:16


Jose. Several foreign embassies are located here, as are the residences of the U.S. and British ambassadors, and you’re as likely to hear English spoken as Spanish.

In Escazú, you’re close to the country’s largest shopping malls and most-sophisticated hospitals. There are many fi ne dining and nightlife options, a luxurious country club, and an 18-hole championship golf course. All this, and you’re only an hour’s drive from the Pacifi c coast.

Beach real estate tends to cost more than properties in the Central Valley, but be aware that Escazú is home to some of the highest-priced real estate in the valley.

That’s the price of convenience. Still, those who live in Escazú say you can live quite well on $35,000 to $40,000 per year.

Because of its many international residents, it’s easy to meet people in Escazú and there are several expat clubs to facilitate networking. The Little Theatre Group (littletheatregroup.org), which offers performances in English and the Women’s Club (wwccr.org) are good places to start. For more clubs and activities, see amcostarica.com/calendar.htm.

Hands down, Costa Rica’s universal health care system is one of the best in the world. Once you obtain legal residency in Costa Rica, foreigners are eligible (required, in fact) to participate in Costa

less than an hour from Guadalajara, the country’s second-largest city, and only half an hour from Guadalajara’s busy international airport. Loved for its mild, spring-like climate and expansive views, Lake Chapala has been attracting expats for 60 years. Today, its home to the largest U.S. and Canadian expat community in the world: As many as 15,000 live here full- or part-time.

You’ll have no trouble getting by in English. You’ll make friends and acquaintances just walking down the cobblestoned streets of little pueblos like Ajijic, Chapala, and San Juan Cosala, all of which lie on the lake’s well-populated North Shore.

Through the Lake Chapala Society, in Ajijic, you can get involved with over 80 activities groups covering everything from line-dancing to bridge…

Many expats have also opened businesses here, including restaurants, shops, and real estate offi ces. It’s easy to fi nd English-speaking U.S. and Canadian real estate agents to walk you through the property-buying process in Mexico.

Prefer to rent? With thousands of snowbirds coming to Lake Chapala every winter, you’ll fi nd a market prepped for rentals, with plenty of rental homes and condos to choose from. Properties for rent or for sale are listed online at numerous websites, so you can do your research long-distance. Rentals can start as low as about $400 a month, while condos for sale start in the low $100,000s, making this area very affordable.

Medical care is a snap, too. Several health clinics on Lake Chapala’s North Shore can handle day-to-day health needs. For major treatment, expats head to Guadalajara, a medical hub that’s home to well-respected medical schools, numerous fi rst-rate hospitals, and excellent doctors—many of whom speak English.

Costa Rica for ConvenienceAlthough Costa Rica is known for its

beaches, the majority of foreigners who move here tend to settle in the Central Valley…near, but defi nitely not in…the chaotic capital city of San Jose.

They’re after the temperate climate and access to amenities the Central Valley offers. At an elevation of about 3,600 feet above sea level, daytime temperatures average 75 to 80 F.

The poshest and most popular Central Valley destination—for foreigners and locals alike—is Escazú, just a few miles west of San ©

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Rica’s universal health care system, CAJA. It’s affi liated with 10 major public hospitals in the country and many small clinics in almost every community.

You can also buy private insurance—most plans cover dental work, optometry, and cosmetic surgery in the case of an accident. Private medical insurance in Costa Rica currently costs about $50 to $100 per month per person, depending on age, gender and other factors.

And don’t worry about language issues—many doctors speak English and have received training in Europe, Canada, or the U.S.

English-Speaking Caribbean BelizePlacencia is a place you fi nd by

accident—a visit to a friend or a diving vacation turns into something more permanent. Most expats in Belize have stories like this.

It takes about 20 seconds to fi gure out things down there—everything is familiar. The language is the same, the money is the same, even the electrical system is the same—you won’t need a power adapter for your iPod or cell phone.

Everyone speaks English. Less than 30 years ago Belize was still run by the British (the Queen of England features on the Belize dollar). The U.S. dollar is accepted everywhere but most things (except hotels and real estate) are priced in Belize dollars. The exchange rate is $2 Belize = $1 U.S.

Belize City is a two-hour fl ight from Houston...and from there, dozens of bush planes make the 20-minute hop to Placencia every day.

“We are ordinary people leading extraordinary lives.”



This is the Caribbean, so the climate is tropical. That means high 80s F when the weather is good, and the possibility of hurricanes when it’s bad. Most of the big storms that hit Belize during the last 150 years landed during September and October. The best time to be in Placencia is December through May.

You can rent a small beach house—it takes about 10 seconds to get from your bed to the ocean—for $60 a night. Longer-term, most real estate agents are now getting into property management. Look for the signs in Placencia village.

Placencia has a clinic and a pharmacy. Belize City has private hospitals but most expats travel across the border to Mexico for anything health related that isn’t minor. Belize in general has a poor reputation for health care, but it is improving—there are now dental tourists that come from North America to save money.

There is one category that Belize scores poorly on—it’s one of the few countries in the world where it’s diffi cult to use VOIP services like Skype (because they are blocked by the main Internet provider). Use phone cards to call home—a $10 card will buy you enough minutes to call home several times.

Panama: A Tropical City AdventureFor an expat easing into city living there

are few places as convenient and appealing as Panama City. Most foreigners arriving here for the fi rst time are happily surprised by what they fi nd. It doesn’t fi t the stereotypical image of the Third World… The infrastructure, diversity and sophistication are utterly First World. This is a tropical city with a taste of home.

You have a wide choice of neighborhoods to suit your own style and taste. There are “American-style” enclaves with tall trees and manicured lawns. Restored colonials offer a taste of history. And newly built waterfront high-rises provide modern conveniences with a water view.

The country’s Pensionado program is the world’s best retirement-residency package. And foreigners can qualify. The economy is growing fast and multinationals are fl ocking here.

International phone calls go through fi rst time, every time. High-speed Internet is the norm rather than the exception and its modern international airport offers daily fl ights to the U.S., Europe and the rest of the Americas. It’s the perfect base from which to explore the continent and fi nd your next adventure.

You can dine in fi ve-star restaurants, attend plays, symphonies, and the ballet, and shop at the many upmarket boutiques. And in Panama City, you can enjoy these luxuries at about half the price you’d pay in any U.S. city.

Expats here say they’re “busier than ever” now that they’re “retired.” Almost all of them will tell you that they got healthier without doing anything special, learned local customs and the language thanks to friendly locals (many of whom speak English), and attended so many expat and local events that networking and making friends was laughably easy.

Small Town, Cool Weather in EcuadorThe highland town of Cotacachi, Ecuador, has changed in

recent years. The biggest change…and one locals are still shaking their heads in amusement at…is the infl ux of foreign retirees

coming for the perfect climate and the low cost of living. It’s not just retirees succumbing to the charms of Cotacachi.

There are several new residents in their 30s and 40s and at least three families with young children, teenagers, and young adult children in tow. For the most part, they’re combining local schooling with home-schooling.

To meet demand, new pharmacies have opened and a new health clinic is in the works as part of a new retirement community being built by a British couple. On the main street, the town’s fi rst real supermarket will open any time now.

But this peaceful little village still offers a small-town lifestyle that has all but disappeared in most of the world these days. There are two shady main plazas where you’ll see friendly working people going about their daily business with a smile and a nod to everyone they meet on the street…where children of all ages play and ride their bikes late into the evening anywhere in town and indigenous women rule the local market, selling the largest, freshest produce you’ve ever seen. ($5 buys more than you can carry.)

Because of its status as an artisan and tourist town, Cotacachi—and nearby Otavalo, where textiles and other crafts are made—is prosperous. This prosperity has also allowed the town to treat itself to a facelift. Recent years have seen the main streets repaved and

FEATURE STORY

Take a carriage ride in Colonial Granada, relax on a beach in Belize or enjoy the culture of Ecuador.

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sidewalks replaced with new decorative tiles, fl owerboxes, and streetlamps. The main plaza has just undergone a major renovation.

High-speed Internet, cable and satellite television is everywhere—for better or for worse. (Yes, you can watch your favorite English-language programs.) Ecuador uses the U.S. dollar, so you won’t have to do currency conversions off the top of your head.

There really are no expat clubs in Cotacachi—mostly you see people on the street and are introduced to them at parties. However, there are two expat-owned restaurants. One, just one for breakfast and lunch is called Solid Rock and its one the main street. The other is called Kipper’s Fried Chicken and it is on the northwest corner of the main plaza, across from the Catholic church.

And it’s not as diffi cult to get here as you might think. Sure, it’s a mountain town in the Andes, but a four or fi ve hour fl ight from the U.S. brings you to Quito, and from there it’s a two-hour drive.

Roatan: Your White-Sand Island“After 28 years I’m still enchanted by Roatan’s natural beauty…

just like the fi rst day I set foot on the island. It’s a quality of life that I can’t imagine having in the U.S.,” says expat Marian Seaman.

If you’re a scuba diver or have enjoyed a cruise to the Western Caribbean, you may have already discovered the Bay Islands. Nestled in the “L” formed by Belize and the north coast of Honduras and protected from most hurricane activity, Roatan is the

largest and most developed island. English is widely spoken here and people are friendly and

helpful. With more than 5,000 foreign residents, some part time, some full time, there is plenty of opportunity to meet like-minded people. You can be involved as little or as much as you want— hide away like a hermit in your hilltop aerie or frequent popular hangouts where you’re sure to meet friends.

There is an international airport on Roatan, with direct fl ights from Houston, Miami, Atlanta and Newark. And resident seniors, defi ned as 60 years or older, get a discount on air fares.

You’ll fi nd a public hospital and several small clinics on the island. The most popular among expats are the Cornerstone Clinic located at Anthony’s Key Resort and Clinica Esperanza in Sandy Bay.

The past decade has seen a lot of growth on Roatan; where there was once only one cruise ship dock, there are now two; the almost-bankrupt electric company was bought by a Texas oil and gas company who infused millions of dollars to provide a steady supply of electricity.

If you want a place where you can feel safe, visit the grandkids easily, bring your dog or cat, commune with nature, relax and enjoy life, then beach-ringed Roatan could be for you.

Colonial Nicaragua on the CheapWith its cobbled streets and shady plazas, Granada is Nicaragua’s

number one tourist destination. Businesses are used to catering to foreign visitors, services are plentiful and standards are high. And for the past three years tourist numbers have risen. If you like the idea of a running your own B&B, bar or gallery, then there are excellent

opportunities here. Many of the local restaurants and bars are expat-owned and a great place to meet people.

Nicaragua is one of the cheapest countries on our radar. And although the national currency is the Cordoba, American dollars are accepted in most places. You’ll get a steak dinner in the fi nest restaurant for around $13. Regular fare at typical restaurants runs about half that.

In Granada, a room or suite with a kitchenette ranges from $300 to $500 a month to rent. And when it’s time to look for your own home, you’ll fi nd good online access to local English-speaking realtors.

There’s no need to give up life’s niceties when you choose this spot. You can practice yoga, fi nd English-language bestsellers…install wireless Internet and use Skype to save on the cost of international calls. Cable TV costs $18 a month, with many of the channels in English.

And Granada is easy to get to. It lies just 45 minutes from Managua’s airport, which offers good nonstop service to Houston, Atlanta, and Miami; just two-and-a-half hours away.

Medical care is cheap and Granada is within 40 minutes of one of the fi nest hospitals in Central America. A visit to a doctor is $15. Finding a doctor that speaks English isn’t a problem and often he’ll give you his number in case of emergencies.

“If you want a really affordable life in a beautiful, vibrant city…a place full of opportunities for starting a business and enjoying social activities...then Granada is for you,” says Darrell.

Editor’s Note: For an extended version of this article, including a full list of costs, see: Intliving.com/easyplaces.

“I’m enchanted by Roatan’s beauty...It’s a quality of life I can’t imagine having in the U.S.”

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OWNING STOCKS WITH high dividend yields can be a great way to avoid stocks with no profi ts…the kind so popular during the dot-com

bubble. Dividend payers are typically big, mature and profi table companies. Boring. But unlikely blow up. Boring is good, in other words.

Dividends “pay you” to own a stock…they can give you a regular income and they can help you pick profi table, mature companies that generate lots of cash. My favorite way to “get paid” dividends is in the Brazilian power-generating sector.

The reason I like to fi sh these waters is that Brazil is one of the world’s fastest growing economies; it’s on track to grow by 5.5% this year. And it takes electricity to keep that growth engine going. I like to think of investing in dividend paying Brazilian utilities as “income meets growth”— you get an income stream from the dividend checks but you also get capital appreciation, as the Brazilian economy grows.

Now, before I tell you my favorite stock in this sector, there’s one other thing you should know. If America were to suddenly start growing at 5.5% a year, it wouldn’t put the same upward pressure on electricity

demand as it does in Brazil. That’s because in emerging markets,

growth puts higher demand on electricity use due to the necessary infrastructure build-out that goes with it. Also, growth in Brazil is lifting millions of people out of poverty for the fi rst time. And one of the fi rst things these newly-minted consumers do is use more power—for new TVs, washing machines, fridges, etc.

My favorite way to play this growth-income combination is through a company called CPFL Energia S.A. This lists as an American Depository Receipt (ADR) on the New York Stock Exchange under the ticker CPL. Because it’s an ADR, you don’t have to be a registered investor in Brazil to buy it. You can buy it just like a U.S. stock through your regular broker.

CPFL sells power to about 6.4 million Brazilians, mainly in the states of São Paulo— home to the megacity of São Paulo—and Rio Grande do Sul in the far south. And in 2009, it provided 13% of the country’s entire power needs, distributing roughly 37,821 gigawatt hours of electricity.

Even better CPFL generates its power mostly from cheap, clean hydroelectric plants. It’s also involved in two biomass-generation projects, two thermoelectric

DIVIDENDSProfi ts in the Power Sector

The Brazil Profi t Playbook

INVESTMENT

I recently traveled to Brazil to research the best ways to play the explosive growth there for the next decade and beyond. We’ve been recommending certain real estate markets in Brazil for years now. But the new The Brazil Profi t Playbook contains all you need to know about investing in Brazil from right there at home. See: Intliving.com/brazilinvestor.

power plants and seven wind farms. So, this is a company that’s very much geared to a future of higher commodities prices.

But that’s just the growth side of the equation. The income side is equally appealing. According to Capital IQ, at writing CPFL stock is yielding 5.41%, meaning it pays back 5.41% of the current share price in dividend checks—almost double the yield Uncle Sam pays you to loan it money for 10 years.

So ask yourself which you’d rather do. Buy a 10-year Treasury note that pays out just over 3% and is denominated in a sinking dollar or buy stock in a solid, cash-generating business (in a fast-growing economy) that pays out 5.4% a year and is denominated in a strong, commodities-backed currency, the real.


By Chris Hunter


Chilean peso 5.52%Hungarian forint 6.10%Russian ruble 8.25%Indonesian rupee 9.71%South Korean Won 3.45%Average interest rate 7.12%

You gain a higher yield, and global diversifi cation.

Each of the countries has a low national defi cit and a good trade balance, both factors that encourage a strong currency. There are risks that some of these

currencies could fall versus the dollar, but some are also likely to rise…as has been the case with Brazil, Australia and Chile’s currency.

One easy way to invest in these currencies is with Exchange traded funds (ETFs) that are traded on U.S. stock exchanges. Three examples are the iShares MSCI South Korea Index (NYSEArca: EWY), Chile Index Fund (ECH) and Market Vectors Indonesia Index (NYSEArca: IDX ).

Seven Currencies to Beat Infl ationIL’s Currency

CornerBy Gary Scott

Gary has been a contributing editor since IL’s launch more than

30 years ago. His latest report, Cash in Crash, is available from

Amazon.com at $4.99.

One way to beat low interest rates and infl ation is with a high-interest-paying multi-currency spread. For example, the U.S. dollar interest rate right now is 0.18%…not enough with high gas prices to drive to the bank.

Instead, invest equally in a spread of these seven currencies that earn on average 7.12% per annum.Australian dollar 4.95%Brazilian real 11.92%

PG22 Investment.indd 22 05/07/2011 15:53


OFFSHORE


government? “Important” here means how likely is the haven and its government to come under pressure from your home country on tax and related matters?

The United Arab Emirates, because it is said to be a “friendly” nation in an unstable region, enjoys the favor of the U.S. government. Haven income is important to the UAE, so Washington won’t want to lean too hard on it over a “non-strategic” issue. The Cayman Islands, on the other hand, has little or no strategic value to Washington and is a constant target of the IRS.

5. Does the haven wave a “red fl ag?” Private fi nancial dealings with high-profi le tax havens may raise a red fl ag in tax collector’s offi ces around the world.

The Cayman Islands, Switzerland and Liechtenstein are examples. Panama, Austria and Luxembourg are a step below that level. Bermuda is lower still, though it doesn’t offer the secrecy

the others do. But then, any tax haven always upsets tax collectors in high-tax nations.

6. How effi cient and convenient are the professional services? Are competent personnel available to serve your needs? How well do they speak English? How easy is it to visit the place? What’s the time difference between you and where you may want to do business offshore?

Nothing substitutes for personal contact with the people who are entrusted with your assets. It’s best to

visit your money periodically, and so much the better if it’s in a place that you enjoy visiting.

7. What, if any, taxes are levied on the haven’s foreign users? The fi rst requirement of a haven is to offer capital preservation. Nonetheless, to include a haven country that scores highly in capital preservation but that also has high withholding, corporate, estate or other taxes, is to ignore an important consideration. True fi nancial security must include the maximum possible tax avoidance allowed by law, the greatest possible fi nancial privacy, the highest level of asset protection and access to the most profi table investments available.

Sadly, Americans these days must look to foreign asset havens for the sort of economic freedom once guaranteed by the United States Constitution. If you want to be smart, select haven nations for placement of your assets according to the relative safety and privacy such places guarantee by law.

Haven nations in which privacy was expected, guaranteed and delivered were numerous just two or three decades ago. They’re many fewer today. But you do still have choices.

Which is right for you? It will depend. Understand that each “offshore” haven is unique.

A country that provides the best banking regulations won’t necessarily be the best place for incorporating a business, just as the best jurisdiction for privacy won’t necessarily be the best for an offshore trust (although the two usually do go together).

Nevertheless, some general guidelines for choosing an asset or tax haven apply across the board. Here are seven important considerations.

1. Is the haven a completely independent sovereign nation? Or is it a territory, dependency, or colony of a larger country, (usually the United Kingdom)? While the government of a dependency or territory may have favorable legislation to attract foreign investment, these laws are usually hostage to the political and economic policies prevailing in the mother country. For example, the last word on the laws of the Cayman Islands comes from London.

2. Does the haven respect privacy? Strong privacy laws are a must in any haven that you consider. Is privacy built into its law? Under what circumstances can creditors or the government obtain information about your wealth, or even seize it?

Ideally, fi nancial privacy should be built into the legal code and violations of privacy should be prosecutable with civil or criminal sanctions. However, even in jurisdictions with the best privacy laws, it’s foolish to violate the tax or money-laundering laws of your home country.

3. Do the local citizens support the haven’s offshore status? In some havens, local citizens are not the primary benefi ciaries of pro-offshore laws or banking secrecy. Since taxes are low to non-existent and the local lawyers have not evolved into predators, locals may have little interest in privacy or bank secrecy.

That attitude contrasts with Switzerland, Austria, and Panama, where strong privacy laws and traditions affect a signifi cant segment of the citizenry who work in the offshore fi nancial sector or have related jobs.

4. Is the haven important to your own home

What to Ask Yourself Before You Choose Your Offshore Haven

“Americans must look to foreign-asset havens for economic freedom.”

By Bob Bauman

PG23 Offshore B.indd 23 05/07/2011 14:58


I had no idea it was like this,” my wife Suzan said. “This part of the coast is like Pirates of the Caribbean!”

We were standing on the dock of Seagull Cove Lodge, a tidy little boutique hotel just outside the village of Boca Chica in Panama’s Chiriquí Province. Behind us, red-

roofed bungalows peeked through the lush palms and bougainvillea on the hillside overlooking the cove. In front of us, a breeze rippled the water of the Chiriquí Gulf, gently rocking the sloops and catamarans anchored in the bay and pushing white, puffy clouds through the sky above the thickly wooded islands scattered offshore.

“Some of these boats have been anchored here for months,” said Derek, who, along with his wife, Avril, two children and a cat, sailed their sloop from South Africa to Panama and now manage Seagull Cove Lodge.

Climbing into the boat tied at the dock we began our tour around Boca Brava Grande, the largest island in the area, and a few of the other islands near Boca Chica, where locals and expats have carved out everything from personal cabañas and hilltop spas and restaurants to large backpacker hostels.

Our guide and real estate contact, Allen Rosen, explained the property situation to us as our boat sailed past islands sporting wave-worn grottos and patches of white, sandy beach.

“There is titled land available out here on the islands,” Allen said, “but there is also a lot of right-of-possession land that doesn’t come with a direct deed. Some of the beach-side bungalows you’re seeing on these islands have been here for years on Rights of Possession (ROP) property

with no problem, but it’s not something I encourage.”

We’d checked out Allen’s website, Chiriquí Coastal Real Estate (chiriquicoastal.com), before coming to the area and knew that the property situation in Boca Chica was unique for a couple of reasons.

One, the ROP issue puts many desirable properties off the list for anyone wanting the assurance of a direct deed. And much of the titled land that is available is still in large parcels…there hasn’t been a lot of subdivision in the area.

That’s what makes Boca Chica so exciting for us. We made it from the modern airport at David, Chiriquí’s capital, to the tiny

village of Boca Chica in just over an hour’s easy drive on a good road, but just a few years ago it was very different. The road that goes south from the Pan-American Highway to the Boca Chica coast used to be what was politely called a “challenge”—that is, miles of potholed hell.

Now that the road has been paved, the Boca Chica area is within easy reach of David… But the property development that infrastructure improvements inevitably bring to a newly-opened patch of tropical

paradise like this just hasn’t happened yet in a big way. The area is called Boca Chica only because the village of Boca Chica—two streets, a dock, and a gas station—is there where the road ends at the coast.

The nearest town of any real size is Horconcitos, back toward the Pan-American Highway, where you can buy bread, milk, and beer and choose between a couple of local restaurants.

But with David now within easy reach, no one in Boca Chica lacks for amenities any more. The wine list at Seagull Cove Lodge was more than adequate to complement anything on the menu, from steak to lobster to spaghetti carbonara. And although you still wouldn’t want to have a major medical emergency in Boca Chica, David’s modern hospitals and clinics are within easy driving range, giving the area broader appeal to expats who want or need a nearby modern medical option.

However, this is still cattle country, and for the most part the

EXPLORATION

By Dan Prescher

Boca Chica: Panama’s (Still) Hidden Paradise

Today in Boca Chica you fi nd mostly large parcels of land for sale.


In Panama, land can be acquired through derecho posesorio (“possession rights”), which permits a buyer to acquire a right to possession that is transferable in perpetuity, so long as the land is actively used for the public good.

This is a gray area, and the Panamanian courts are working to clarify the condition; a favorable judgment would make derecho posesorio an acceptable form of ownership for tourism development. Until then, we recommend that you never purchase a property with possession rights only, even though we know of people who have done so without a problem. See: Intliving.com/pospan.

“

RIGHTS OF POSSESSION AND WHAT IT MEANS TO YOU“A new road

now puts this in reach.”



vast farms and pasturelands that occupy the coastal plains haven’t been acquired, subdivided, and improved for individual home construction, even on ocean and bay fronts. Allen does list some hilltop, ocean-view properties that local farmers have cut out of their holdings and put on the market in lots from one to fi ve hectares (about 2.5 to 12 acres) for $10 per meter or $100,000 per hectare.

Back when the road was still keeping casual visitors away from this stretch of coast, Istana Properties established a luxury residential community, a place to really get away from it all. Lots and homes are still available there. The shoreline at Istana is incredibly beautiful, and Allen showed us one fabulous home on the market there at $995,000—and the ocean frontage and beautiful construction made it worth every penny.

But even with the improved road, not many other developers have followed in Istana’s footsteps. You’ll still fi nd most of the Boca Chica coast occupied by boutique hotels like Seagull Cove

Lodge, deep sea fi shing camps, weekend homes of locals, and cattle pasture.

We don’t expect that to last. Improvements to the airport in David and the growing popularity of Panama’s Chiriquí province will bring more people, local and foreign, to the area and start focusing more attention on Boca Chica and other beautiful stretches of coast in the province. In fact, Allen is currently laying the groundwork for a project that will feature something entirely missing in the area right now…condos.

On our way back from our boat tour we stopped in a small cove on Boca Brava Grande island to have lunch at Cala Mia, a resort hotel atop a ridge with breathtaking views of the ocean. The owners live on another hilltop on the island, where they make much of the cheese and grow the organic produce used in their restaurant. Like Seagull Cove Lodge, you would never fi nd Cala Mia unless you knew exactly where to look in this stunning tropical hideaway of islands, inlets, coves, and coastline.

And it’s precisely that “remoteness” that so many of the expats around here are looking for. Rights of Possession concerns aside, when you cruise past in an open boat and see the little cabañas and houses on sandy beaches and under waving palm trees, you can almost hear the pirates singing “Yo ho ho” while they bury their chests of treasure.

These islands and bays are exactly where you’d go if you had treasure to bury and you wanted to be sure there was but a slim chance anybody else would ever fi nd it.

The remoteness is part of what makes Boca Chica a treasure itself, and that treasure now comes with the added bonus of having David and the rest of Panama’s remarkable Chiriquí Province within easy reach.

Editor’s note: Check out Dan’s short video tour of Boca Chica’s coast: Intliving.com/bocaboat.

Both AirPanama (Flyairpanama.com) and Aeroperlas (Aeroperlas.com) fl y from Panama’s Albrook Airport in Panama City to David for approximately $80 one way. Once there, major rental car companies are right at the airport.

It’s easy to get from the airport to the Pan-American Highway, and just 24 miles east of David is the turnoff for Horconcitos and Boca Chica.

You can get a ferry at Boca Chica out to Boca Brava Grande or to any of the other islands.

Seagull Cove Lodge (Seagullcovelodge.com) is on the mainland; the turnoff is just before you reach the village of Boca Chica. Cala Mia (Boutiquehotelcalamia.com) is on Boca Brava Grande and can be reached by ferry from the village.

Allen Rosen’s real estate offi ce (Chiriquicoastal.com) is in Horconcitos. Allen knows his way around the coast and the islands and can explain or fi nd out more about most real estate being offered in the area.

Boca Chica Essentials

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WHEN HENRY FIRST CAME TO Ecuador from his native Alabama, he was 40 years old and his Spanish was less than basic. “I didn’t even know what an amigo was,” he admits with an easy laugh. In high school,

Henry had chosen an elective class in typing instead of Spanish, reasoning thus: “I’ll never need Spanish and there are more pretty girls in typing.”

But today, married to a pretty Ecuadorian, Henry is one of Quito’s most successful businessmen.

For two years he travelled to Ecuador arranging mahogany shipments for a furniture company. Not yet accustomed to the last-minute nature of business here, he grew frustrated with logistical challenges and decided to leave for good. He had bought the ticket for his fi nal fl ight home when Ecuador again defi ed all his scheduling. At the very last minute, Henry met his future wife.

After a long-distance relationship Henry decided to seek permanent work in Ecuador. He fi rst tried exporting foods. That was what one did in developing countries, wasn’t it? Export resources? But it was when he took a break from international trade that he discovered an untapped market.

In 1999, teaching an English class at EPN University, he saw a gap between services and student needs. An entrepreneurial itch compelled him to draft a business plan; his wife translated it, and he pitched it to the administration. They gave him a salary of $200 and six months to produce results. Since then, the University’s language institute has grown from three teachers to over 170 and from a yearly student population of 479 to over 25,000. His compensation has grown too.

Henry explains that business here is problematic, but that there is a market for solutions. “It is because of the many problems,” he says, “that so many opportunities exist.” While he worked to get things off the ground in 1999, infl ation was out of control and banks were closing. Nonetheless, people wanted English classes and Henry’s model provided that service in a way they felt was worth paying for—even during hard times.

Henry is humble about his success: “The basics are competitive here,” he explains, referring largely to customer service. While many countries fear the demise of their middle class, Ecuador slowly adapts

to the demands of a rising one. But even though job titles have changed, a belief in the old hacienda economy of land owners and peasants persists. The popular view that advancement is only available through connections encourages the ambitious to dedicate their energies to social networking as opposed to improving businesses.

There are Ecuadorian visionaries who see the possibilities, however. They, along with newcomers like Henry, are launching alternatives to existing, and poorly-run, businesses. While providing an educational service that people need, Henry has created hundreds of well-paid jobs. And there are countless sectors in which others might prosper here by doing the same.

Ecuador offers the chance to be a pioneer—with all the risks and benefi ts that role entails. When asked about risks, Henry says that regulations can change quickly while bureaucracy can be frustratingly slow. He suggests these precautions: Start small; keep extra money saved in an economically more stable country (many Ecuadorians do this, too); and, when buying property, pay the U.S.-like fees of the most reputable local attorneys (to avoid scams).

Another issue is getting here. The most common visa for entrepreneurs is the Investor’s Visa. Options such as tourist or student visas offer the chance to scope out a market before committing to investment in a new business. You can fi nd current information about visas and their requirements here: Ecuador.org/visas.htm.

When asked about the benefi ts of life here, Henry smiles. We spoke in his beautiful Quito home, which is tended by a housekeeper. Its gigantic terrace overlooks a nearby valley town. “Luxuries are affordable,” he says at last. He is taking more frequent vacations than he could when in the States, eating better, sleeping better; in many ways, he is living better…and he didn’t have to wait until retirement.

ENTREPRENEUR PROFILE

Tapping into Ecuador’s Rising Middle Class

“Ecuador offers the chance to be a pioneer—with all the risks and benefi ts.”

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Quito, Ecuador, is ripe with business opportunities if you’re entrepreneurial.


By Herb Terry

PG26 Entrepreneur Profile.indd 26 05/07/2011 16:23


The knife-edge mountain ridges in Costa Rica’s Southern Zone curve like a dragon’s spine, twisting

and turning their way to the horizon and dropping sharply to the long sandy beaches that run along the coastline. Pristine forests teeming with wildlife cloak the mountain slopes…yet you’re only three hours from an international airport.

Here you can sip an espresso bought at a little coffee shop. You can fi ll a picnic basket with goodies...warm baguettes, Brie, smokehouse chicken, mangoes, and freshly-squeezed juice. You can meet friends at the beach, sun yourself on the sand, take a dip in the warm ocean...

You may think that’s too pricey a fantasy for you to afford in well-discovered Costa Rica. But in fact, you can own a lot here for only $40,000. It used to be tough getting to this spot, and that kept property prices low. But a new highway that opened last year is bringing more tourists and property shoppers to this southern Pacifi c retreat. Word is getting out. And, if history is any guide, prices are likely to go up.

Now’s a smart time to check this place out—before it booms. And you can do it

on a Chill Weekend, as an IL subscriber, for only $250. You’ll get four days here…meals, accommodation and transport included. For more information, email: details@pacifi clots.com.

IL’s Calendar of Events

Explore the Secrets of Costa Rica Live and Invest in Costa Rica Seminar • San Jose

August 30 – September 1, 2011

You Could Be Living Your Dream…

Las Vegas, NV • October 6 – 8

If money were no object, what would your dream retirement look like? This fall, we’ll show you where you can easily make that dream your reality—for $697 (or less) a month. Maybe you long for your own cottage on a quiet beach...a grand apartment in a city vibrant with concerts and cafés...a mountain villa where the air is crisp...or even your own vineyard amid gently rolling hills...

Whatever you fantasize about...come with that idea in mind. Dream big.

This October in Las Vegas, we’ll pinpoint for you on a map the best-value places in the world to turn your dream into reality—for a small fraction of what you’d pay at home…

Whatever your ideal retirement looks like, we can help you make it happen. You’ll meet our best contacts, rub elbows with the experts, get all your questions answered, and jump-start your new life overseas. For more information, see: Intliving.com/LIOSMag.

Ecuador “Has it All”Quito

November 9 – 12

A catalogue of Ecuador’s benefi ts reads like a retiree’s wish-list. This country has taken top marks in our Global Retirement Index two years running…and with good reason.

First, it’s the most affordable destination on our beat. You could own a home on the beach for $115,000. You can enjoy a four-course lunch for $2 or stay in a nice hotel for less than $20. You can get top-notch medical care at one-fourth to one-tenth what you’d pay in the U.S.

For many, the top draw is the climate. The beaches are tropical, but up in the Andes, the weather is mild and spring-like year-round.

If this is ticking the boxes for you, join us in Ecuador this November for our Live and Invest in Ecuador seminar. We’ll introduce you to our best contacts, show you where the best values and best opportunities are, and help you get from where you are now, to the place that’s right for you in Ecuador. For more information, see: Intliving.com/contactevents.

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Southern Pacifi c Paradise—For LessChill Weekend, Ojochal, Costa Rica • November 17 – 20

Costa Rica is one country that may truly have it all: A year-round tropical climate, modern cities, Caribbean beaches, Pacifi c coastline, rain forests, lush valleys, and majestic

mountains.With its slower pace of living, fresh foods and reputation as

one of the “greenest, cleanest” countries in the world (Costa Rica has little pollution and lots of clean water and fresh air)…it’s no wonder locals are considered the “happiest people on the planet.”

And despite the fact that Costa Rica is a popular destination for both tourists and retirees, real estate prices there are reasonable—just as reasonable, in fact, as in Mexico and other Central American countries, like Belize or Panama.

Most retirees settle in the Central Valley…within a 90-minute drive from San Jose. There, prices are very affordable. (As they are in the Lake Arenal area, to the north of San Jose.)

But if the beach is your thing, don’t worry. Costa Rica has more than 1,000 miles of coastline. If you know where to look, you’ll fi nd some incredible bargains there right now, too.

Join us from August 30 – September 1, 2011, for our Live and Invest in Costa Rica Seminar, and we’ll tell you exactly where to go, who to see, and what kinds of properties make sense if you’d like to buy in this country.

This time next year—you could be living your dream life in Costa Rica. And the Live and Invest in Costa Rica Seminar is the best, most effi cient way to make it happen.

For more information, tel. (toll-free) +1(866)381-8446; website: Internationalliving.com/events.

PG27 Calendar.indd 27 05/07/2011 15:39


surprise you’ll fi nd a number of family-run fi sh joints serving mackerel, sardines, and other catch. But it’s the bacalau, or codfi sh, that’s the real pride of Portugal. (The Portuguese apparently have 365 ways to prepare cod, one for each day of the year.)

Try bacalau com nata, a baked casserole of cod, cream and onions. Also check out the sardinhas assadas, the ubiquitously cheap pan-fried sardines. At lunch, most restaurants serve three delicate sardines, each about four inches long and fi lled with a cage of tiny bones. For about $9, the sardines come with a beer, potatoes, a small salad and fl an.

A look around the Igreja Santa Engracia is an Alfama must. On the plan of a Greek cross this church’s marble interior is the last resting place of presidents and literary fi gures from Portugal’s past.

On Tuesdays and Saturdays, meandering through the nearby Feira da Ladra, a massive open-air fl ea market behind the church, is a great way to spend an afternoon.

Vendors hawk everything you can imagine. This is the place for tiny treasures, ancient coins, antique brass instruments or vintage leather bags. After you’re done poking around, hike up to the miradouro (viewpoint) about 10 minutes away for a majestic look across the city. Grab a cool drink and take in the scene. Below you thousands of orange-tiled roofs speckle the view. In the distance you can see the 25 de Abril Bridge, a red suspension bridge that resembles the Golden Gate.

Lisbon is a city of hills but if you’re not up for a trek, take Tram 28, the famous, old electric tram that swirls around Alfama’s tight corners all the way down to Biaxa and Chiado. This $3 ride is a fun, inexpensive way to tour the city.

By 7 p.m. most of the neighborhood restaurants are beginning to buzz. Wander into any of the local spots, and you can get a delicious thinly sliced piece of lemon and olive oil-doused steak for about $10. If you’re feeling adventurous try the caracóis (snails).

Alfama by night makes for a lovely after dinner stroll. One thing to sip before you retire for the evening is ginginha, a quintessential Portuguese liqueur. Served in hole-in-wall bars for about $1.40 a shot, this cherry drink tastes like melted down lollipops and makes for a tasty desert digestif.

If you’re up for it, duck into a bar and hear the slow, melancholic strum of Fado, a style of guitar music. Fado originated in Lisbon, and many trace its origin back to the sailors of Alfama. The songs describe heartbreak, loss and the sorrows of sea life.

OF THE GRAND CAPITALS OF EUROPE, Lisbon is unjustly neglected by North Americans visiting the Old World. At the edge of the continent, facing the Atlantic Ocean, it’s just a little off the beaten track. But this is an inexpensive city packed

with just as much charm as Rome, Paris or Berlin. The earthquake of 1755 leveled most of Lisbon including

Baixa, which was rebuilt on a grid system with elegant Pombaline architecture. On the hill to the west you’ll fi nd Barrio Alto, the heart of the city’s nightlife and shopping. Quiet during the day, this hip part of town swells with people by night, eager to dance and drink in the narrow alleyways.

But for me, the best neighborhood of all is Alfama. Tumbling downhill toward the Tagus River, Alfama is the oldest

part of the city. “Alfama” comes from the Arabic word Al-hamma meaning fountain. The neighborhood survived the devastating earthquake relatively intact, and over time it became the home of Lisbon’s fi shermen and sailors. Today, Alfama maintains a faded air of grandeur; you can sense that time slowed down many years ago.

Getting lost and wandering the cobblestone streets of Alfama is my favorite thing to do in this city. The Arab infl uence is still evident, with high walls enclosing secret courtyards, winding lanes, side-street bars and restaurants.

Clothing drapes from the windows creating colorful fl ags that wave in the breeze. Dogs chase each other up hidden stairways. Elderly city dwellers gather on street corners, drinking beer, smoking cigarettes and talking politics. Rickety wooden yellow trams chug past, relics of a different time yet still in use.

Many of Alfama’s residents have lived here since childhood and are now well into their golden years. There’s a constant shuffl e of elderly Portuguese women pushing carts fi lled with produce. Others wait in windows while lunch cooks on the stove.

Given the neighborhood’s maritime connections it’s no

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Wander Lisbon’s Alfama Neighborhood

TRAVEL

A Secret Side Trip Belem, only a few miles from Lisbon, is the seaport from

where Portuguese ships left during the Age of Discovery. Today, it’s touristy but has some nice green space, museums

and most famously, Casa Pasteis de Belém, a 165-year-old bakery that serves Pastel de Belem, a fl aky, egg custard pastry. Opt for the cinnamon/sugar sprinkle on top and enjoy this typical Portuguese treat.

Down the street, the Maritime Museum hosts hundreds of model ships and interesting artifacts from Portugal’s maritime history. The best way to get to Belem is by cab. It’ll cost you about $11 dollars.

For just $3, tour Lisbon and the old neighborhood of Alfama aboard Tram 28.

By Darius Fisher

PG28 Travel.indd 28 11/07/2011 14:38


Forget the trek to Machu Picchu, Peru. While the pre-Columbian city is truly a work of art, it is diffi cult not to feel disappointed after hiking for four days only to fi nd a hoard of tourists who got to the top in an hour by train. Instead of following the masses, why not

venture off the beaten path and hike Bolivia’s El Choro Trail? This trek features the same characteristics as the Inca Trail in

Cusco, minus the crowds and for a fraction of the cost. Walk in the steps of an ancient civilization along the cobble-stoned road network, which was once among the most widespread and highly advanced transportation systems in the ancient world.

Running from Ecuador in the north all the way to Chile in the south, the network is an astonishing 25,000 miles long. It consists of two north-south roads with numerous minor sections branching off; one of which is now the route of the El Choro Trail. The pathway takes you through three ecosystems beginning with the snow-capped High Andes 15,000 feet from sea level in the city of La Cumbre, then descending into the subtropical vegetation of the Yungas; a pocket of the Amazon nearly 10,000 feet below.

The El Choro is one of the easiest treks in the Cordillera Range and is suitable for all ages. The steady descent is kind on the lungs but can be tough on the knees…a brace or an elastic bandage, trekking poles and good hiking boots are recommended. Depending on your stamina, the

trek can be fi nished in three or four days.

On the fi rst day, when you step off the local bus from La Paz, you fi nd yourself surrounded by black, glistening mountains. The path ahead extends far into a narrow valley before disappearing into cloud-covered forests. Local Bolivians herding llamas in and out of the gorge weave past as you make your

way along the beautifully preserved path. With their colorful skirts, shawls and tiny top hats, these

predominantly short, plump local women make for an arresting sight as they trudge

along on their three to four-day hike up and down the narrow valley.

The vegetation magically changes as you descend—becoming warmer and greener just short of the village where you’ll sleep the fi rst night. Little

huts with clay walls and straw ceilings sit among banks of lush grass while

vines engulf the stone fences and houses. It’s reminiscent of The Hobbit. A little old

Bolivian woman comes out to greet the weary travelers in some ancient Incan dialect while your guide

serves as a translator. After a token payment (under a dollar per night) to the elderly

lady you are free to set up your tent in amongst the homes of the locals. Then it is a case of tucking into a hot meal and a cup of coca tea…an apt reward after a long day of trekking.

You set off again the following morning into the deep, misty jungle below, this time passing through thick vegetation and hugging cliffs above the river beneath. The trek ends in the coca farming village of Chairo where you are rewarded with a true sense of accomplishment after a tough physical challenge and a unique cultural submersion. From here, catch a taxi to Coroico for 100 Bolivianos (US$14) or alternatively, hitchhiking is common throughout the country and can save cash.

It’s worth spending a few days exploring Coroico. The hiking trails nearby take you to waterfalls and rivers, and in town the bars and restaurants are worth a look. The oxygen-rich air, warm weather and friendly locals make it a comfortable respite. A bus to La Paz will set you back 250 Bolivianos (US$36) and take roughly three hours.

Trek Bolivia: A Machu Picchu Alternative

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Hiking and mountain biking are popular ways to enjoy Bolivia’s spectacular El Choro trail.

TRAVEL

By Katie Hilborn

Wait until you arrive in Bolivia to book your tour—it’ll save you a bundle. Tours booked in La Paz, the capital, are relatively cheap—a three day trek with guide, camping and food will run around $85. However, if you book via an American operator or online, you will pay $250 to $375. (Trekking Machu Picchu will set you back even further, costing over $500.)

Most tour operators in La Paz are located around Sagár-naga street. Just walk down the block and you’ll come across a dozen agencies willing to bargain on price. Club Andino on Calle México 1638 can provide information and recommendations for area treks and hiring a guide, tel. 0102 2312-875.

While bargaining might be okay when dealing with a tour operator, it is important to remember that guides are paid very little. Don’t forget to tip.

The Smart Way to Trek El Choro 2

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PG29 Travel.indd 29 05/07/2011 16:20


For information on property for sale from

around the world, visit www.InternationalLiving.com

$145,000

MÉRIDA, MexicoFor exclusive urban city living in Latin America with a super

short journey time, look no further than the colonial splendor of Mérida on Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula.

This two-bedroom, 1.5-bath home is located in the so-called “Gringo Gulch”—the most sought-after neighborhood in the city. All the key attractions and shopping areas of El Centro are within walking distance.

The home features an oversized roof terrace, glass-walled open fl oor, downstairs garden and pool. The easy-to-maintain property has just been completely renovated by local architect Victor Cruz and his signature design touches are notable throughout.

The city is a three-hour drive from Cancún but you can fl y straight into Manuel Crescencio Rejón International Airport from Houston, Miami or Las Vegas. Journey time from Miami is just two hours. For more information, visit: www.mexintl.com.

$270,000

CASCO VIEJO, Panama City You may live in a nice neighborhood, but

chances are it’s not a UNESCO World Heritage site. Fewer than 1,000 locations have made this list of the most beautiful places on the planet and no more than a handful can actually be lived in. Panama City’s Casco Viejo district is one of them.

This 1,500 square-foot fully furnished unit, featuring one bedroom, 1.5 baths, private roof terrace and water views, is priced at just $270,000.

Modern meets antiquity in the marble fl oors and Italian-style kitchen. The apartment comes fully furnished for a turn-key move in.

The unit forms part of the Montefi ori building on Plaza Herrera. It is within walking distance of some of Casco’s best restaurants and nightspots.

And this spot is closer at hand than you might think, just three or four hour’s fl ight time. American Airlines fl ies direct from Dallas or Miami while Continental, United and Delta also operate services from Houston and Atlanta. For more information, email: [email protected].

VACATION HOMES CLOSE TO THE U.S.

PROPERTY PICKS

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PG30-31 Property Picks.indd 30 05/07/2011 12:18


$285,000LAS TERRENAS, Dominican Republic

This 2,368 square feet house is just a short 200-yard walk from Las Ballenas beach…a gorgeous curve of golden sand, wrapped around the azure Caribbean Sea. The home is also close to the stores, bars and restaurants in the heart of Las Terrenas.

This property is one of only seven homes in a small private community. It boasts three bedrooms, two bathrooms and separate guest quarters. It has an open-plan layout, American-style kitchen and feels spacious, fresh and airy. Its location makes it ideal for vacation rentals.

The route into Las Ballenas was made all the easier when Samaná El Catey International Airport, which serves province of Samaná in which Las Terrenas sits, threw open its doors back in 2006.

However, its international services are quite limited. Services run to Memphis and Miami, but they are seasonal and infrequent. Most visitors will instead opt to fl y into Santo Domingo, which operates a string of services year-round. Las Terrenas is a 30-minute drive away if you touch down in Samaná El Catey, and there are short-hop daily fl ights from Santo Domingo. For more information, see: Pathfi nderinternational.net/vacation.

$399,000

ARENAL, Costa Rica Fly into Costa Rica’s Liberia airport and take an hour-long drive

north into the mountains to the 33-acre Lake Arenal.Overlooking this jewel-like lake you’ll fi nd a three-year-old home on

more than an acre of land. With two bedrooms and 2.5-bathrooms it’s located in a private community with swimming pools, tennis courts, a stable, gym and a marina. The property even comes with a small sailboat.

Lake Arenal has its own small, close-knit group of expats, some great gourmet food options and resorts offering hot springs and thermal spa treatments. You also get to wake up in the dramatically beautiful setting with the lake, live volcano, craggy mountains and national parks on the other side of your window. See: Pathfi nderinternational.net/vacation.

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PG30-31 Property Picks.indd 31 05/07/2011 12:19


THE POUNDING sound of hoof beats fi lls the air as armor–clad Mongol archers deftly guide their galloping

steeds. Their mounts kick up clouds of dust, skidding and pivoting sharply as the riders expertly fi re their arrows at randomly positioned targets.

This is Nadaam or the “Three Manly Games,” Mongolia’s most important annual festival held during the national holiday from July 11 to 13. Its roots lie in Mongolian warrior traditions and include fi erce competitions in three disciplines: Male only wrestling, all gender archery and gritty horse races out on the open

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steppe with fearless child jockeys.Celebrated throughout the country, the

National Sports Stadium in the capital Ulaan Baatar hosts the biggest festivities, which open with an extravagant ceremony of horsemen, athletes, dancers, musicians and military. Parades and displays on horseback and on foot continue for hours while a whirlwind of dust, color and noise fi lls the stadium and saturate the senses.

Agile riders clothed in spiked skull caps and traditional long tunics known as deels (still everyday attire for many in the city and on the steppe) perform tricks on horseback as platoons of uniformed, face-blackened soldiers demonstrate weapons and hand-to-hand combat.

Vividly costumed troupes parade the

perimeter of the stadium, waving giant fl ags and handfuls of gaudy balloons while fl oats bearing smiling beauty queens glide around.

Parachutists land in the midst of synchronized dancing displays, causing momentary mayhem and raising cheers from the crowds while dapper musicians pound, toot and blast on drums, brass horns and trombones.

Judges, competitors and thousands of spectators, both Mongol and foreign, squint down from the packed stands.

Editor’s Note: Like Lucy, you too can get paid for your travel photos. Find out how at: Thephotographerslife.com/signup/workshops.

WINDOW ON THE WORLD

Mongolia’s “Three Manly Games”By Lucy Brown

Archers gallop across the National Sports Stadium during the Opening Ceremony of Nadaam festival in the Mongolian capital of Ulaan Baatar.

PG32 Close Up B.indd 32 05/07/2011 16:24

Classifi edsYour guide to quality real estate, rentals, travel services, education,

employment and money-making opportunities worldwide

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CHILE Enjoy the Pacifi c OceanExclusive apartments with exceptional view of the Valparaiso’ Bay. Prices starts from U$D 130.000. Exclusive penthouse with 3460 ft2. www.solari.cl Contact: Rod. [email protected]. Phone: +56 32 2460077

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Own a home in a Caribbean fi ve-star resort from $800 a month. Powder beach, golf course, hotels, 27 restaurants/cafes, swimming pools, gym, and spa. Less than 2 hours from international airport. Contact [email protected] for more details.

Costa Rica Mountain-view lot in private community, $40,000. Ocean-view lot, $120,000. Build your dream home in a lush landscape. Custom construction $100 a square foot. 150 homes already built. E-mail Pathfi nder@pacifi clots.com for info

ENJOY A STRESS-FREE LIFESTYLE IN OUR SECURE GATED RETIREMENT COMMUNITY COMPLETE WITH GYM / INDOOR POOL/RESTAURANT JUST A BLOCK AWAY FROM THE LOCAL HOSPITAL IN COTACACHI, ECUADOR www.ecuadorlifestyle.com

Got a $50,000 budget…and want to invest in overseas property?We can show you a dozen overseas properties that all have one thing in common: a price tag of $50,000 or less. Just sign up for our free, no-obligation e-letter, the Pathfi nder Alert, here: http://www.pathfi nderinternational.net/subscribe/.You’ll immediately receive your free report, Twelve Killer Real Estate Deals for $50,000—or Less!

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MONTEVIDEO APARTMENT Modern comfort and convenience in Ciudad Vieja. Ideal short-term rental for business, expat and tourist travelers.www.casasarandi356.com

Land for Sale: Approximately 2 acre tract off Hwy 25A in Hamilton County, Section3, Township 1 South, Range 15 East. In walking distance of Swift Creek and not far from the Suwannee River. Price: $37,000.Contact: Almarine [email protected] call 386-397-2625

PG33-35 Classifieds_August.indd 33 05/07/2011 08:38


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THE LAST WORD By Lee Harrison

Is the Easiest Place Really the Right Place for You?

I retired abroad almost 10 years ago. And since then, I’ve re-retired and relocated a few more times, just to continue the adventure I started back in 2001.

I’ve accumulated a large body of personal knowledge about where to retire…and how to evaluate retirement destinations.

And in addition, while preparing this issue, my fellow IL editors brought up a number of good measures by which to choose the easiest places in the world to retire.

We talked about criteria like being English-friendly…ease of travel and proximity to the US…availability of rentals…a strong social infrastructure, with a well-organized expat community…climate…healthcare.

So taking all that into account, I’ve arrived at the world’s easiest place to retire for North Americans.

It’s Arkansas. I’m serious. If “easy” were your

overriding criteria in choosing a destination, I think Arkansas could be great. It offers loads of English-speakers, warm and friendly people, beautiful mountains, broad rivers, access to good health care, a low cost of living, and excellent infrastructure.

But if you wanted to retire to Arkansas, I doubt you’d have read all the way to the back of this magazine.

What’s wrong with Arkansas? I say: It’s too familiar. While it’s easy, comfortable and affordable to go there, it’s too similar to our cultural norm to offer the excitement and adventure I think most folks considering a retirement overseas hope to fi nd when moving abroad.

And the same holds true for many overseas destinations that are easy places

to retire to. The easier they are, the more like Arkansas they tend to be. If you have lots of English-speakers, Walmart, Burger King, a large expat group and U.S. cable TV, then retiring there may be easy. But a year later, it may not feel like much of an adventure anymore.

Now does that mean I think you should consider only destinations I’d categorize as “hard?” No. But you should consider that an offshore destination’s “easiness” offers most of its advantage during the settling-in period…the time when you’re hooking up the utilities, fi nding a dry cleaner, and don’t know how to say “screwdriver” in a foreign language.

In my experience, once you’re settled, “ease” is less important. The wonder, awe, and adventure of your new land become

more important. And the more unfamiliar your surroundings are, the more adventure and excitement you’ll feel.

The most-successful expats I know didn’t necessarily become successful because they went to “easy” places. They’re successful

because they went overseas prepared, with reasonable expectations, and with a sense of adventure.

Things like language study, learning the culture and prepping yourself on issues like visas and legal matters will do wonders for your ease of integration. Any retirement destination can be easy if you’re well-prepared…while most can be diffi cult if you’re not.

Reasonable expectation is important because it’s tempting to build a false picture in your mind about what life in a foreign land is like. Then if you don’t see what you’ve come to expect, you could be disappointed. A number of advance visits

will help keep your expectations real.Your sense of adventure, however, is

probably your most important ally. It allows you to laugh at and surmount almost any obstacle. By contrast, if you rely too heavily on “ease,” you may fi nd yourself at a loss. Remember that adventure, by its nature, is the antithesis of “easy.”

I recently met an expat couple living in a small, local town on Nicaragua’s central coast. The infrastructure is shaky, they’re the only English-speakers, and the nearest supermarket is over an hour away. They’re one of the most well-adjusted and happiest couples I’ve met abroad…even though their destination is anything but “easy.”

On the other hand, I also visited a well-known expat destination, where English is widespread, and many live in planned communities fi lled with North Americans. Here I met a handful of guys who spend most of their time complaining.

In the fi rst example, both members of the expat couple were classic adventure-seekers. In the second, the expats sought familiarity…and what they found came up short.

We’re all different when we move abroad. Our dreams are different…and the places that make us happy abroad will span the spectrum of the globe. What’s more, the perfect place for each of us may change over time, as we grow and evolve.

In my view, the “right” place needn’t necessarily be “easy,” as long as it’s a place that’s familiar enough to let you get your feet on the ground…but different enough to allow you to face each day with anticipation of adventure, excitement, and wonder.

“Adventure is the

antithesis of easy.”

PG36 Last Word.indd 36 05/07/2011 15:47

il august issue2011

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