ThisbookisdedicatedtothememoryofJamesHoweWeirM.D.andMauleRamseyLiddellF.R.C.S.

ExceptionalFathers

AndalsotoNathaniel,Rebecca,Arabella,Alexander,James,Ethan&Lucy

ExceptionalGrandchildren

Publishedin2010byGrubStreet4RainhamCloseLondonSW116SSEmail:food@grubstreet.co.ukWeb:www.grubstreet.co.uk

Reprinted2012

Textcopyright©Caroline&RobinWeir2010Copyrightthisedition©GrubStreet2010JacketdesignbyLizzieBDesignBookdesignandformattingbyRoyPlattenandSarahDriverPhotographybyMichelleGarrettStylingbyJayneCross

TherightsofCaroline&RobinWeirtobeidentifiedastheauthorsofthisworkhavebeenassertedbytheminaccordancewiththeCopyright,DesignsandPatentsAct1988

ACIPrecordforthisbookisavailablefromtheBritishLibrary

ISBN978-1-90494346-4

Allrightsreserved.Nopartofthisbookmaybereproducedortransmittedinanyformorbyanymeans,electronicormechanical,includingphotocopying,recordingoranyinformationstorageandretrievalsystem,withoutpermissioninwritingfromthepublisher.

PrintedandboundinSlovenia

Author’sNote:Theuseofuncookedeggsdoesnotoccurinthisbook.Howeverforthosepeoplewhowishto carry on the practice of adding whisked egg whites to lighten the mix, we would suggest they usepasteurisedeggwhites,powderedorliquid.Thisisbecauseitcanbedifficulttoguaranteethesafetyofraweggs.

ContentsIntroductionTHEMYTHSORIGINS&HISTORYSERVINGICECREAM&THEBIRTHOFTHEICE-CREAMCONEWHATAREICES&WHATISGELATO?EQUIPMENTINGREDIENTSWHATISGOODICECREAM?THEBASICS

BasicRecipesHowtoMicrowaveCustardsforIceCreamandGelatoFreezingTechniques

A-ZofRECIPESInstantIces

LOLLYPOPSORSUCKERSBOMBES&MOULDEDICESSAUCES&SYRUPSWAFERS,CONES,BISCUITS,TOFFEE,TAFFY&BRITTLESGLOSSARYAPPENDICES

SODAS,SUNDAES&FLOATSTHESCIENCEOFICESCONVERSIONS&SUBSTITUTESMAKINGICESCOMMERCIALLY

USEFULADDRESSESSELECTEDBIBLIOGRAPHYACKNOWLEDGEMENTSPICTURECREDITSINDEX

Introduction

Here, fifteen years after the publication of our first book, is a new, up-dated,expanded version, even more definitive. When told of our intention to do asecondeditionafriendremarked‘Areyousurethereisanymoretosaythatisworth saying?’ This had the effect of putting us on our mettle. The finaljudgement lieswithyou, thereader,butwearesurewehavenot letyoudownwiththisbook.

Sincethepublicationofthefirstbookresearchhasgoneonapace.Wehaveacquiredpictures,prints,generalephemera,artefacts,equipmentandtravelled;travelalwaysturnsupnewapproachesandideasandsometimesnewitemsforthevastcollectionwenowown.Infactthedilemmahasprovedtobenotwhatcanwefindtoputinanewbook,but,whatwemustleaveout.Thebestwaytosumupis tosaythat thehistoryhasbeensupplementedwithadditionalrecentresearch, basic recipes have remained, but completely new sectionshavebeenaddedongelatoandlollipops/suckersandinadditionthewholebooksprinkledwith more than 93 brand new recipes. Keen eyes will detect fresh pictures,photographsandbitsofcollectedprose.Tothosepeoplewhomightobjecttobuyingasecondbookcontainingsomeof

thematerialthatappearedinthefirstwecanonlysaythatitprovedimpossibleto construct a second book without the framework of the original. The crossreferencingalonewouldhavebeenlabyrinthine.Butfirst,thereisanother,veryseriousmatterthatwehavetodealwithhead-

on. This is the problem of the rising level of obesity, particularly amongstchildren.Thissubjectisalwaysraisedininterviewswiththemedia.Theyhavetobe contentious to raise their ratings butwith this problem they have a strongpoint.Howdarewebesoirresponsibleastopublishabookonices?Howeverwe thinkwe candefendour ground, andwedo it on two counts; content andvolume. The large ice cream manufacturers continue to move in the oppositedirectionfrompublicdemand,supplyingretailers,shops,cafesandrestaurants,withanevermorefoolproofproduct.Individuallypackagedicesapart,itisnowcommon for ‘fresh’ scooping ices served straight from the freezer in boxesdesignedtofitneatlyintoarefrigerateddisplaywheretheysit.Theseeveninthehighest summer temperatures retain a perfect shape until dispensed, alwaysperfectly malleable, never melting or dripping. This type of ice cream hasbecomesomuchpartofourlivesnowthatwedonotquestionit;itseemsutterlynormal.Butwetellyou,itisnot.Thetechnologyinvolvedinproducingthiskindofproductbeggarsbelief.Manufacturerswillnotrevealhowmuch isspentonresearch,butwereckonthat£50millionperannumisnotfarshortofthemark.Thebasic ingredientsof ice cream (milk, cream, sugarandegg)no longergointo themanufacture of ice cream in their natural form.And they aremakingmoney, a great deal ofmoney.Mainly this is due to the fact that ice cream isboughtbyvolume.Sotomaximiseprofitthemanufacturerspumptheiricecreamfullofair.Youbuyair,airischeap,andhencetheymakeabigprofit.Anotherfactorissugar.Thisisacheapingredient,somorethanisnecessary

isputintoicecream.Nowwhatdowehave?Afullyoverblown,synthetic,over-

sweetproductthatmakesitperfectlypossibletositinfrontoftheTVandeatalarge,verylargetubofthestuff.Whatweareofferinghereisachancetotastewhaticecreamreallywasand

shouldbe.Andwehavebeenamazedatthereactionsofpeople,fromtheyoungthroughtofoodspecialistswhosay‘thisisamazing.Whyisn’tboughticecreamlikethis?Whydoesn’tsomeonemarketthis?’Ice cream is basically a simple product; whole milk, sugar and cornflour

make a very acceptable ice cream. You can add creams of various types andeggs,but thesearenotobligatory.And that is it.With thehome-madeproductthere are no additives, emulsifiers or stabilisers. It is simple to make and afractionofthecost.Mostimportantly,becauseitisadenser(heavier)product,itisimpossibletoeatmorethan3scoopsofqualityicecreamatonesitting.Thiswouldgiveanaverageservingofabout350calories.Wehavealwaystakenakeeninterestinresearchintodietsanddietaryhabits.

Itisfascinatingtonotethattherehavebeennoreportsofbingeeatingofqualityproductssuchaspremiumicecreamoritsclosepartner,realchocolate.Over-consumptionappearsalwaystofocusonthecheaper(dareonesay,‘junk’)endof the market. Quality ices and chocolate using the real ingredients and notcheaper,chemical,‘natureidentical’productsaresimplytoosatisfyingtoeatinlargequantities.Tastes change as timemoves on, butwe still believe firmly in our original

approach.Firstly, thatagiven icecreamrecipeshouldstandaloneasagood,individual, well-balanced ice. Secondly, that the ingredients are improved bybeingincombination.Forexample;strawberriesandcreamwouldseemlikeanunbeatable combination, and indeed home-made strawberry ice cream is aknockout.Ourthirdconsiderationis;wouldIwanttomakethisrecipeagain?Having said that ice cream is basically a simpleproduct, it is important to

addthattheinherentratiosofthefewingredientsarecomplexandfixedandifyoudisregardtheseyouwillsimplyrenderperfectlysoundingredientsinedible.Sadly,wehavecomeacrossalargenumberofrecipesforallsortsoficesthatdonotwork,thechiefpurveyoroftheserecipesbeingtheinternet.Bending the rulesdoesnotwork either.Unfortunately low fat products and

sugar substitutes do not make an even passable ice cream. Other ingredientssuchasrice,oatandwheatmilksallsoundlikewonderfuloptions,buttheydonothavethefatsolidstomakewhatwethinkisapassableicecream.(Althoughonesoyamilkbasedicedidmanagetosqueezeinunderthewire.)Whatdowemeanbypassable?Well,notanyofthefollowing:variously,rockhardormelted,

icecrystalsinamilksubstrate,unpleasantlygranularorplainslimytoeat.Soalthougha recipe fora lolly/suckermadewith low fat yoghurt,minimal sugarandchopped fresh fruitsounds ideal, trustus, it isborderingonunpleasant toeat.So even if the history, physics and chemistry bore you to tears, or you are

concernedaboutyouroryourchildren’sdiet,bydintofourlaboursyouhaveinyourhandsabookofreliablerecipes thatwillproduce thebest icecreamandicesyouwillevereatandyoucandosowithsomepeaceofmind.TakingalunchbreakwhilewritingthiswelearnthatUnileverareplanninga

lowfaticecreamusingfermentedG.M.yeast.Werestourcase.CarolineandRobin,London2010

TheMyths

Inordertokeepthehistoryoficesclear,wehavetakentheperhapsunorthodoxapproachoffirstlistingthemythsassociatedwiththissubject.Italsoservestohighlighttheinaccuraciesthatgettrottedoutatthemerementionoficecream.Itis very disappointing that these go on being repeated and show no signs ofdiminishingandinfactaremultiplying,thankstohundredsofwebsites.Peopleseemreluctanttoletgoofthesemoreromanticflightsoffancyinthefaceofthesternerfacts:somehavevestedinterestsinthemythsandwilldisputethemostsolidevidencetoprotecttheirbusinessinterests.Someseeitasimpugningtheirnationalpride.

The following stories cannot be substantiated, even by extensive research.Someareplainwrongastheydonotfitwithotherbonafidehistoricaldatesandfacts,andsomewerejustmadeup.

EMPERORNERO(A.D.37-68)Thisisoneofourfavouritemyths.EvidencedoesexistthattheRomansusediceandsnowfromthemountainstopackaroundandsochillglassesofliquid.Noevidence exists to confirm that the Emperor Nero sent his slaves up themountainsandiftheydidnotreturnwithicetheywereboiledinoil!Nordidheaddtheicetoliquidstoproducethefirstsorbetoricecream.Practicalitywouldsuggestthatspeedwasoftheutmostimportanceandsnoworicewouldprobablybegatheredwheretheslavesfirstcameacrossit,onthelowerslopes.Thelowerthelevelsonwhichsnowwasgathered,themorelikelyitwastobeimpure.TheRomansknewthisandneverputiceintheirdrinks.

Themythispopularontheinternetandcontinuestoberepeated.Regrettablyhistoric information on the internet has no editing so this type of informationcontinuestoberepeatedbypeoplewhoshouldknowbetter.WeevenfoundthisoneonthewebsiteofthedairydepartmentofoneoftheleadingUSuniversities.

MARCOPOLO(1254-1324)This is a big one. Nowadaysmore than a few eminent sinologists doubt thatMarcoPoloevermade thoseextraordinary journeys.There isastrongbodyofopinionthatthinksMarcoPoloneveractuallygottoChinaandthathisaccountsweremainlyplagiarisedfromthoseofothermerchantsandtraderswhichheread

whilst in jail in Persia. Doubt is founded on four points; his failure as amerchant/tradertomentionpapermoney,boundfeet,teadrinkingandTheGreatWall of China. In addition there is nomention in any Chinese records of hisvisits.InaclosedsocietylikeChinainthe1500sthearrivalofastartlinglydarkforeigner would surely have excited considerable curiosity. Then there is thestraightforwardfactthatnowhereinhismemoirsisthereamentionofices,icecream,oranyfoodlikeicecream.

CATHERINEDEMEDICI(1519-1589)The story goes that Catherine de Medici took the knowledge of ice-creammakingwithher entourage toFrancewhen shemarriedHenri,Ducd’Orleans,heirtotheFrenchthrone,in1533.Thereisnopictorialordocumentaryevidenceof this whatsoever. The origin of this so far has been traced back to oneparticularindividual,AbrahamHaywardQ.C.whopublishedthefairytaleinhisbookTheArtofDining,1853,whichwasnotwidelyread.Thedamagewasdonewhen it was taken up by Mrs Isabella Beeton who repeated it in her book,HouseholdManagement, in1861.Thiswasaverypopularbookthatreachedawideaudience for at least adecade. Itwasalsoclearly reported inLeGlacierClassiqueetArtistique(1893)byPierreLacam&AntoineCharabotwhichwasarguably one of themost influential books used by the ice-creammakers andconfectioners in France in the 18th and 19th centuries. This is typical of theawfulmomentumsuchhistoricalinaccuraciescanachieve.

BARTOLOMEOSCAPPI(1500-1577)BartolomeoScappipublishedhisgreatcookerybook in1570,coveringalmosthalf a century of traditional and innovative gastronomy. He was pioneeringimaginativeusesofdairyproducts,andlightandfragrantdesserts,butnowhereintheentirebookisthereanymentionoficecreamsorsorbetti.

Arecent Italianpublicationandnumeroussiteson theItalian internetcredithim with the invention of a fruit sorbet. This recent myth is based on afundamentalmisunderstandingof16thand17thcenturyItalian.

Thewordsconcernedaregeloandcongelare.InBookVI,recipe203isforadishPeraccommodarmarascheingelo,‘Toservecherriesinjelly’.Therecipeis for souror sweetcherries,ordamsons.Freshlypicked fruit ismadeup intobundlesof ten, tying the stems together, andput intoapanwitha littlewater,thenpowderedsugar isadded,and the fruitarecookedslowlyuntil thecolourruns out, and a syrup is formed,which is tested until setting point is reached.Eachbundleofcherries isput intoaglassandthesyruppouredover, thenput

intoacoolplacetoset,inlocofrescoacongelare.WhenScappiwrotehis“Opera”themeaningofgelowasjelly,andtheverb

congelaremeanttoset,orcoagulate,orsolidify.Oncethetechniqueoffreezingaliquidinamixtureofsaltorsaltpetreandicehadbeenarrivedat,inthe17thcentury,thetermsgeloandcongelaretookonthemeaningswerecognisetoday.

There were no sorbetti or ices in Scappi’s time. A close look at theillustrationsinhisbookconfirmsthis.Inthespaceallottedtomilkproductsthereis an image of a man making neve, snow, which is what we would call asyllabub,asnow-likefroth,notthecompressedsnow,orice,usedacenturylatertocoolwineorfood.

IfScappiusediceorsnowhedidnotincludethisinhisillustrations;thereisno indication that ice, its storage and containers, were part of his kitchenequipment However we do see clearly what he meant by gelo, a jelly bagsuspendedoverabowlfromatripod,withthelabelsipassagielo,“herejellyisstrained”.

We are indebted to Gillian Riley and IvanDay for helping to destroy thismythandanyonewhohasanydoubtsshouldrefertoScappi’sbookortherecenttranslationintoEnglishbyTerenceScully(UniversityofTorontoPress,2008).

This misinterpretation needs to be exposed before it enters the realm ofdubiousbuthardtokillmyths.

BUONTALENTI(c1530-1608)Buontalenti was the architect of the Belvedere in Florence as well as theimpresarioofwaterworksandhydraulicentertainmentfor theMedicisatfeastsand festivals. He obtained amonopoly fromGrandDuke Ferdinand I for thebuildingoficehousesinandaroundFlorenceandthesupplyofsnowandicetothepeopleofFlorence.Hismonopoly lasteduntilhisdeath in1608.Forsomepeople this is irrefutable evidence that he ‘invented’ ice cream. There is noevidencetosupportthis.

ThereisacompanyinFlorencethathasregisteredthenameofBuontalenti™as a gelato. Once secured, they attempted to restrict other ice-cream makersusing thisname.Theother ice-creammakers skirted the trademarkby sellingtheiricecreamasBuonTalentiicecream.Wehaveaskedanumberofthemforany evidence ofBuontalenti inventing an ice or evenwhy it is called aBuonTalentigelatoandreceivedblankstaresorareply‘becauseIsayso’.

Themodern gelato Buon Talenti or Buontalenti tastes as if flavoured withAmaretto(analmondflavouredliqueur.)

KINGCHARLESIStories abound concerning Charles I having an ice-creammaker and that thisice-creammakerwasmadetoswearthathewouldnotdivulgethesecretofhowitwasmadeinreturnforalifelongpension.Wehavefoundatleasttendifferentnames for him in various books and articles where this is published as fact.Somehaveaddedfurtherflourishes;thattheice-creammakerdidnotsticktohisendofthebargainandsoldthesecretandforthiswasbeheaded.Ifsuchamanhadexistedthedatesfortheserecordswouldbearound1625to1649.

WeconsultedthelateProfessorFelixAylmer,whowasMasterofStPeter’sCollegeinOxfordandtheworld’sleadingauthorityontheservantsofCharlesI.Hewasunabletofindanyreferencewhatsoevertothiselusiveice-creammakerunderanyoneofthetennamessofrequentlytrottedout,oranylifelongpensionawardedtoanyoftheking’sservants.Alsoitisworthnotingthattheprincipleofputtingsaltsonicetodepressthefreezingpointoftheice(necessarytomakeicecream)wasunknown inEuropeuntil 1530 and even then,was not usedotherthaninscientificjournalsandinscientificdemonstrationsforcoolingwater.ThefirsticecreamsdonotappearinEuropeuntilthe1650s.

NAPOLEONAND JOSEPHINEMET IN TORTONI’SCAFÉ IN PARISWHILEJOSEPHINEWASENJOYINGASORBET.Theprint (above)seems tohavestarted this recentmyth.Howwewish itwastrueasitwouldbeagreatstory.

Thestorygoes that the firstmeetingofNapoleonandJosephinewas in thefamous Parisian café Tortoni (formerly calledVelloni’s). Unfortunately this isjust a recentaddition to themanymythsofwhere Josephineactually firstmetNapoleon.Thereisnoevidencewhatsoeverinanyofthevariousbiographiesofeither Napoleon or Josephinemeeting in Tortoni’s café, famous as it was forices.

Origins&Historycirca300The endothermic effect of salt on icewas first noticed and recorded in the4th century IndianpoemPancatantrawhereaverse sayswatercanonlybecome reallycold if it contains salt. In IndiaandEgyptitwastheancientcustomtochillwateratnightbyevaporation.Thiswasdonebysettingflatporousvessels,containingasalinesolution,inlayersofstrawinshallowpits.Afurtherpotoffreshwaterwasputinthesalinesolutionandtheevaporationofthesalinesolutionhadachillingeffectonthefreshwater.

618-907ThefirstpieceofrealevidenceoriginatesinChina.DuringtheT’angperiod(AD618-907)variousdairyproductsweremadeusingmare’smilkaswellasthatofwaterbuffalo,cowandgoat.Oneofthese,arefreshinglycooldish,wasmadeduring thehot summermonthsand ispossiblyoneof theearliest iced-milkproductsrecorded.Kumiswasused,whichwasmixedwithflourandcamphorandthen‘refrigerated’,exactlyhowisnotknown,itcouldhavebeenassimpleasbeingputoutsideduringfreezingnights,beforebeingserved.

THEENDOTHERMICEFFECTOFSALTONICEThisoftenconfusespeople.Toput itverysimply; icecubesadded toaglassofwaterwill lower thetemperature of thewater as the ice cubes dissolve. If the glass ofwater is put in a bowl containingmixed ice and salt the temperatures of the ice and saltwill drop and cause thewater in the glass tofreezebytheprocessofconduction.

It is possible under laboratory conditions to reduce the temperature of salt and ice to about-21ºC/-6ºF.Anythingstoredinorarounditwillbecomefrozenbyaprocessofconduction.Thisistheoriginalbasisforthefreezingofices.

Whenmakingicecreamwithsaltandice,temperaturesof-16ºC/-3ºFarenormallyachievedinthedomestickitchen.

(Note:Peoplealwaysask,‘thenwhyissaltputonfrozenroads?’Imagineabowloficecubes;ifsaltis sprinkled on the ice cubes, theywillmelt but the temperaturewill continue to drop resulting in amixtureofwaterandicecubesatbelowfreezingpointbutnotfrozensolid.Havingreducedthesolidiceon the road to slush and water, even though the winter temperature may be falling, the highwaysdepartmenthasincreasedthetractionfortrafficbygettingridoftheslipperyice.

HowevertheydonotbothertodothisontheroadsinScandinaviaandCanadawhenthetemperatureapproaches-21ºC/-6ºFasitistoocoldfortheprocesstowork.Theyusesandinstead.)

King Tang of Shang, founder of the Dynasty, had a staff of 2,271 peopleattendingtofoodandwineinhispalace,amongthemareported‘94icemen’,whoseprecisedutieswerenotrecorded.

Kumis is a type of fermentedmilk, usuallymare’s, stillmade today inCentralAsia andMongolia.Heatedandfermented,ithasanalcoholcontentofuptoabout2%.Nowadaysitissometimesreferredtoas‘milkchampagne’duetothefizzinessofthefermentedmilk.

711-1492Theplaceanddateforthecrucialdiscoveryoftheendothermiceffectofsaltoniceisunknown.JosephNeedham,inhismonumentalworkScienceandCivilisationinChina,(1976),thinksitisunlikely

thattherefrigerationeffectofsaltsolutionswasaEuropeandiscovery,butthatitreachedEuropefromtheEastviatheArabsandMoorsduringtheirtimeinSpain(AD711-1492).

1127-1206 One of the earliest pieces of documentary evidence concerning an iced dairy product (asopposedtojusticedwater)alsocomesfromChina,inadescriptionoffrozenmilkbytheSungpoetYangWanli(1127-1206).

Itlookssogreasybutstillhasacrisptexture.Itappearscongealedandyetitseemstofloat,Likejade,itbreaksatthebottomofthedish;Aswithsnow,itmeltsinthelightofthesun.

TRANSLATIONBYRODERICKWHITFIELD,PROFESSOROFEASTASIANARTATTHEUNIVERSITYOFLONDON

ANDHEADOFTHEPERCIVALDAVIDFOUNDATION.

1230-1270Thefirstknowntechnicaldescriptionofmakingicecomesfromthegreat Arab historian of medicine, Ibn Abu Usaybi’a (AD 1230-1270) in hisKitabUyunal-anbafitabaqat-al-atibba(BookofSourcesofInformationontheClassesofPhysicians)inwhichhementionsmakingartificialsnowandicefromcold water and saltpetre. Ibn Abu Usaybi’a attributes the process to an evenolderauthor,IbnBakhtawayhi,ofwhomnothingisknown.1300sThereisfurtherevidenceofanicecreambeingservedattheMogulCourtduringtheYuanperiodinthe14thcentury.

1530FirstEuropeanrecordoftheendothermiceffectwhentheItalianphysicianMarcoAntonioZimaraofPaduawritesoftheuseofnitretochillliquidsinhisProblemata.

1530BernardoBuontalentibuildsicehousesinFlorencefortheMedici,whereiceisincommonuse,buticecreamhasyettobeinvented.Amythexploded.

1533 Catherine deMedicimarries the futureHenri II of France but does not introduce ice cream, thenunknown,toFrance.Anothermythdisposedof.

1550TheSpanishphysicianinRome,BlasiusVillafranca,inhistreatise,MethodusrefrigerandiexVocatoSalenitroVinumacpotusquovadisaliudGenus,describesthecoolingofwaterbytheadditionofsaltpetre.

1561-1626FrancisBacongaveseveralformulaeforsaltmixturesandreducingtemperatures.

1571NicolásMonardes’sLibro de laNieve published in Seville discusses themedicinal uses of chilleddrinks.

1589GiambattistadellaPorta inNapleswriteshisMagnusNaturalisofexperiments in freezing,not justchillingwineinamixtureofnitreandsnow.Wasthisanearlysorbetto?

1619&1622IcepitsdugatGreenwichandatHamptonCourt,forJamesI.

1620sAntonio Frugoli of Lucca describes inPratica e Scalcaria amountain or pyramid of fruit in icedisplayedduringabanquetinRome.

1644TheJesuitCabeusstated that35partsof saltpetreadded to100partsofwater,agitatedvigorously,wouldcausefreezing.Note:Acolossalamountofsaltpetre.Onethirdofthisamountofammoniumnitrateandwatergivesatemperaturedropfrom4°Cto-15°C.

1657Leopoldo(1617-1675)andhisbrotherFedinandoIIdeMedici(1610-1670)startedtheAccademiadelCimentoin1657inFlorence,whosescientificexperimentsintofreezingincludedflavouredwaterices.

During this time theyconductedallsortsofexperiments, includingfreezingliquids in containers ‘like those used to freeze sorbetti in the summer’. Theyused silver containers to freeze the liquids andwhen the liquidquitenaturallyexpandedinthesilvercontainers, theycouldnotremovethefrozenliquids.Todealwiththeexpansionoftheliquidsastheyfroze,theythenmadesilverglobesthat opened and closed in the middle. (The same way as bombe mouldsdeveloped.)Theyalsodidexperimentswithacqualanfra(orangeflowerwater)rose water, strawberry water, cinnamon and Chianti.Meticulous records werekeptandlaterpublishedinthe19thcentury.1660InParis,onoraround1660,AudigerrecordsmakingicesofanunspecifiedvarietyfortheyoungKingLouisXIV.HewasprobablythefirstinFrancetomakeicesbutthereissomedisagreementabouttheexactdatesasAudiger,inhislatermemoirsin1692,usesconflictingdates.

It is important to understand that the first ices available from themid 17thcenturywereenjoyedbyveryfewpeopleandveryinfrequently.

Iceswereagreat luxuryand reallyonlyavailable tomonarchsandwealthyaristocratswhohadaconfectionerwhoknew thesecretsofmaking icesandasupplyofice,eitherfromtheirownicehouseorimported.

InOctober1660,WalfordrecordsinLondonOldandNew thatanicehousewasbuilt inUpperSt James’sPark (nowknownasGreenPark), for the royalfamily.

PAINTINGBYFERNANDODIROBERTOROBERTI(1786-1837)OFASORBETTOSELLEROUTSIDECASTELNUOVO,NAPLESCIRCA1830.

1660sWatericesfirstappearedinParis,Naples,FlorenceandSpain,thusputtinganothernailinthecoffinof the mythology of Catherine deMedici bringing ices to France, as this was over a century after hermarriage.Theseearlyiceswereknownaseauxglacées,acquagelateoreauxd’ltalie.

L. Audiger, confectioner and limonadier, works in Rome, Venice andFlorence to perfect his skills, and ends up freelance in Paris making eauxglacées,waterices,forthenobility,aswellasfruitcordialsanddrinks.1661VenantioMatteidescribespyramidsoficeandfruitatfestivitiesinFlorencecelebratingthemarriageofPrincessMarguérite-LouisetoCosimodeMedici.

1671-2ThefirstdocumentedreferencesofardiscoveredoficesbeingservedinEnglandisinadescriptionby Elias Ashmole inHistory of the Noble Order of the Garter, published in 1672, during the reign ofCharlesII.HerethereisalistofthefoodservedattheFeastofStGeorgeinStGeorgesHallinWindsorCastle,on28and29May1671.TheonlytabletobefavouredwiththeservingoficeswastheKing’swith‘OneplateofwhitestrawberriesandoneplateofIceCream’onboththeeveofthefeastdayandatthefeastdaydinner.Hewouldmostprobablyhavehadthelargenumberofservantswhosurroundedhistabletakeportionsofsomeofthefoodtohisspecialfavouritesamongtheguests.

1674 In France the earliest written recipe for a water ice was in Sieur d’Emery’s (Elizabeth Davidquestionedifheactuallywastheauthor)RecueildeCuriositezRaresetNouvellesdesPlusAdmirableEffets

delaNaturepublishedinParisin1674.AnEnglishtranslationwaspublishedinLondonin1685underthetitleModernCuriositiesofArtandNature.

1680L.AudigerservedeauxglacéesataballgivenatChantillybythePrincedeContéfortheDauphinandhisbride.

1686 A Sicilian, Francesco Procopio dei Coltelli established a café directly opposite the newly openedComédieFrançaise, in the street then known as the rue desFossés-St.-Germain, but renamed the rue del’AncienneComédie.Because of its location, theCafé de Procope became the gathering place ofmanynoted French actors, authors, dramatists andmusicians of the eighteenth century.Voltairewas a regularpatron aswell asRousseau, author andphilosopher;Beaumarchais, dramatist and financier andDiderot.Though described as Le Glacier François Procope we have found no evidence that Procope invented amechanicalice-creammakingmachineandElizabethDavidthoughtitunlikelythathewassellingicesatthispoint.

1688TheLondonGazetteof20thSeptember1688,tellsofabanquetinStockholmtocelebratethebirthofJames Francis Edward, Prince ofWales, son of James II and QueenMary, at which iced creams wereserved.

1691InFranceFrançoisMassialotpublished11recipesforsorbetinhisbookNouvelleInstructionpourlesConfitures,lesLiqueursetlesFruitsandin1702anEnglisheditionwaspublishedcalledTheCourtandCountyCook.ItwasfromthisbookthatElizabethDavidthinksthatEnglishconfectionerslearnedhowtomakeices.

1692AudigerpublishesLaMaisonRegléeinParis.Itcontainsthefirstmentionof‘stirring’icesduringthefreezingprocess.

1694AntonioLatinipublishedrecipesforninesorbettiinLoScalcoallaModerna.

Around this timemoulds for ices first appeared inNaplesasdid icesmadewithascaldedandsweetenedmilkbase.Thesespecialitieswerepartiallyfrozenthentransferredtofancymetalmouldsfortheirfinalfreezing.1695 The first booklet exclusively of recipes for sorbetti was published in Naples in about 1695. Thisbooklet, firstmentionedbyElizabethDavid in1994,disappearedafterherdeath.Over9yearssearchingfailedtoproduceanothercopyinanylibraryorantiquarianbookdealerslistorheroriginalcopy.Howeverin amost extraordinary coincidence at an auction sale of some of her bookswe found and purchased aphotocopyofthislittleleafletthatshehadstuckintothebackofabookonicecream.AcopyofthebooklethassinceappearedinalibraryinSwitzerland.

This photocopy was one of the most exciting things we have ever found.There isnoauthorandnopublisher,andonly theaddress. ‘SoldbyCristofaroMigliaccio in the street of booksellers next to the Church of San Liguoro’ inNaples. It is12pagesandabout13cm(5 in)×10cm(4 in). (This is thesamebookseller/publisherwhopublishedthe2ndeditionofCorrado’sbook.Seepage19. It has no price on it and appears to have been supplied to professionalsorbettimakersandconfectionerswhentheypurchasedasorbettiere.)

OFFICEThereisnosatisfactorytranslationintoEnglishoftheFrenchword‘office’.Usuallyhistorianstranslateit as thepantry,or stillroom,neitherofwhich is correctbecause theydonot adequatelydescribe theworkthatwascarriedoutintheoffice.

Renaissancecookerycausedsalttobecomeaningredientofmajorprominence.Previouslysweetnesshadbecomeafeatureofeverydishincludingthosedisheswewouldnowconsidersavoury.

Itwasnotuntilthe1700s,inFrancethatsweetdishesalmostexclusivelybecamethedessertcourse.BarbaraKetchamWheatoninherbook(SavouringthePast,1983)explainshowsugarcreatedasplit

in responsibilities in the household so that the cuisine became responsible for themain courses of ameal, and the office responsible for the ever expanding empire of complex dessert dishes and ices,whichalso included thepreservationof fruits, theflowersand theelaboratedecorationof tableswithsugarsculpture.

Sugar sculpturewas,by themiddleof the18thcentury,being replacedbywhiteporcelain figures(Meissen,Sèvresetc)asthesefigureshadamuchlongerlifeandwerestrongerthanfragilesugar.

This emphasis on desserts created the occupation of confectionerswhowere in great demand byroyaltyaswellasaristocraticandverywealthyhouseholds.Theconfectioneroccupiedauniqueroleinmanyhouseholdsinthatnotonlydidheproducedessertsandsugarsculptureforthetablebuthewasalso responsible for floral decoration andmost importantly he reported to the lady of the householdratherthanthemaster.Thismadehisrolequiteseparatefromthecheforcookortheservingstaff.Thiswasreflectedinhishighsalaryandstatusbelowstairs.

The separate confectioner’s kitchen was frequently sited within the house for easy and decorousaccessbytheladyofthehouse,whereaskitchenswerenormallybuiltoutsidethehouseorwereputinadjoiningbuildingsbecauseoftheriskoffire.

Averygoodexampleof this is inSyonHouse, theDukeofNorthumberland’shouse,designedbyRobertAdam,ontheoutskirtsofLondon,wherethereisaconfectionerykitcheninvirtuallyitsoriginalcondition.ItisoneofthebestremainingconfectioneriesinEnglandandissituatedalmostunderneaththeoriginaldiningroom,inthesouthwestcornerofthemainhouse,sotheconfectionerhaddaylightalldaylongfortheirintricatework.

This division of responsibilities continued untilGeorgesAugusteEscoffier (1846-1935) abolishedthecenturiesolddivisionofthecuisineandtheoffice.

AnyoneinterestedinthissplitshouldreadBarbaraWheatonaswellasRoyStrong’sbook,Feasts.

In its 12 pages there are 23 highly sophisticated recipes (even by today’sstandards) for sorbetta (Neapolitan spelling) ices, startingwith lemon sorbetta,thenlemonsorbettainmoulds,(pezzi).‘Sorbettadilattemanticato’–richmilk

sorbetto, this was before the days of calling ices gelato. ‘ImperialeAmmantecato’,madewitheggyolksand‘Sorbettad’Auroraàmanteca’,madewithcandiedpumpkinandcinnamonwater.1697PopeInnocentXIIenjoysasorbettoortwoonajourneyfromRometoNettuno.

1700 By 1700 sugar was confined to the dessert course in France and this led to a split in householddepartmentsbetweenlecuisine(kitchen)wherenon-sweetdisheswerepreparedandL’office,wheredessertdishes, ices and confectionary were made. L’office was also responsible for the table setting and thedecorationofthetableincludingtheelaboratesugarsculptures.

1700 The first record of ice cream inAmericawe have found is in a letterwritten in 1700 byWilliamBlack,aguestofThomasBladen,GovernorofMaryland.Blackdescribesthedessertasbeing‘…nolesscurious;amongtheRaritiesofwhichitiscomposed,wassomefineIceCreamwhich,withtheStrawberriesandmilk,eatmostDeliciously.’

1714On28thAugust1714,thenewAustrianAmbassadortoRome,GiovanniVinceslaoGalasso,gaveareception,concertandfireworkdisplayinhonourofEmpressElisabettaChristinad’Austria.

SignorDominenicoTosi,ChiefStewardtoHisExcellencyhadprepared thefirst ‘grand rifresco’ tobedistributedhalfway through theentertainment.Thisconsistedofchilleddrinksandices.Forthesecondpartoftheeveningtherewasahugehall facing the piazza lit by four giant crystal chandeliers underwhichwerefivetables.

The tablescontained‘piramididi sorbettodipersico,dipappina,mandorlefresceedicedriti chechiudeandentro la loro frutta sciroppate ’.Pyramidsofsorbetto flavoured with peach, papina, fresh almond and citron, moulded andfilledwith their own juices.The tableswere coveredwith ice creams, sorbetsandpyramidsofice.

Onthetopofthecentraltabletherewasalargevasemadeofice,colouredtolook like alabaster holding a tree on which were attached 150 individuallyfrozen,mouldedfruits;thesefruitswerefilledwiththeirownjuices.The‘soil’inwhichtherootsofthetreewereplantedinthefauxalabastericeurnwasmadefromchocolatefoam.Thetablewas84palmi(approx18m/60feet)longandthetrionfionthetoptable(urnandtree)was8palmi(nearly1.7m/5½ft)high.

TheorganiserwasSignorEnricoDienebierfromPrague,theconfezzionewasanEnglishman,SignorArnaldoRitfelt,andthegeli(ices)fromMicheleAnsideitheRomanicemaker.

It is hard to imagine the splendour of this astonishing evening. This reallywasentertainmentonascalethatisunknowntoday.

We recently discovered inMassey & Sons, The Essence of Confectionery,1885London, that tomakeiceurnsthat looklikealabaster,youaddedmilktothewaterbeforefreezing.

Masseyalsosuggests inthisbooktomakeaWenhamIceStandyoushould

take the block of imported AmericanWenham Lake ice ‘to the turners’ whowould‘turnitintoanelegantvase.Theauthorshavehadthisdoneandithasabeautifuleffect’(Canyouimaginethefaceoftheturnerwhenpresentedwithablockoficetoputonalathe?)1713-18ThefirstEnglishcookerybooktoappearcontainingarecipeforicecreamwasoneentitledMrsMaryEalesReceipts(1718).MrsEalesclaimedthatshehadbeenconfectionertoherlateMajestyQueenAnne.Thiswaswritten some fifty years after the first recorded serving of ice cream.This claim seemsunlikely, she probably was a supplier to Queen Anne because in those days they simply did not allowwomenintheRoyalPalacekitchens.Herbookwasreprintedin1733and1744.

1724AntoniodeRossi,Venetianconfectioner inRome,producesamanuscriptof recipes, including156icesofvariouskinds,andarecipefor‘twistedwafers’,possiblyice-creamcones.

1733 In1733,VincentLaChapelle,chiefcookto theDukeofChesterfield,publishedTheModernCookandhadthestrangedistinctionofbeingtheonlyFrenchchefoftheperiodtopublishfirstinEnglandandtheninFrance.(HisbookwaslaterpublishedinFrenchin1735,1736and,withlengthyadditions,in1742.)TheModernCookissignificantinthehistoryoficecreamforitsdescriptionsoftheelegantusesoficesanddecorativemoulds.Hewasthefirstauthortosuggestaddingeggwhitestoices.However,LaChapellehadplagiarisedlargepartsofthebookfromFrançoisMassialot’sLeCuisinierRoyaletBourgeoispublishedin1691.Inthe1742editionofhisbookLaChapelleadvisesstirringtheicecreamduringfreezingtoalterthesizeoftheicecrystalsandregardstheomissionofthisintheearliereditionsasaseriousdeficiency.StirringthemixtureduringfreezingwasoriginallysuggestedbyAudiger.LaChapelleincludestraditionalrecipesforicecreamwithouteggsandalso,forthefirsttime,witheggs.

Theuseofeggsinicecreaminfluencesboththetextureandtaste.Earlyicecreamswereliterallyfrozen‘icedcream’mixedwithsugar,flavoursandfruits.When eggswere added, themixture became smoother and had a richer taste,more likea frozencustard.Oneof theadvantagesofaddingeggswas that theamountof cream (a relativelyexpensive ingredient) couldbe reduced.Englishice creams of the 18th century followed the traditional cream method andremainedbasic‘icedcream’.

Frenchrecipesoftheearly18thcenturydidnotcallforeggsoreggyolks,butwhentheystartedtoappearinFrancearoundthemiddleofthe18thcenturytheywerecalledfromagesglacésandeggyolksappearedasingredients.

1742 Egg yolks in ice cream did not appear in England until themiddle of the 18th century, probablyinfluencedbytheFrench.

VincentLaChapelle,intheappendixonconfectioneryinthe1742editionofhisbook,LeCuisinierModerne,mentions‘Cream-CheeseinIce’calledfromageglacé,acreamiceformedinamould.Itcontainstwoquartsofcream,sugarandtwoeggyolks.FromageglacéisnotmentionedintheearlyFrencheditionortheEnglishedition.

MeanwhileinItalythereweresomeamazingrecipesbeingprinted.VincenzoCorrado in Il Credenziere de BuonGusto, 1778, listsmany sorbetti includingsorbetti di latteall’Inglese (milk sorbetti English-style)which included butter,milk, creamand12eggyolksandwas flavouredwithahintof cinnamon.Healsohassorbettobutirato,(buttersorbet)asorbettocontainingbutter,milk,andonly6eggyolksandnocream.Thislightersorbettoisflavouredwithcinnamonwaterandwouldhavehadamilderflavour.

Ourfavourite,andonewesuggestanyoneseriouslyinterestedinhistoricicesshouldtry,isVincenzoCorrado’srecipeforCanditod’uova,whichcontainsanastonishingnumberofeggyolksandsugarsyrupand flavouring,nothingelse.Thirty egg yolks and 1.125 litres/4½ cups/36 fl oz sugar syrup and thenflavouredwithcinnamon.Amazinglythesugarsyrupisalmostexactlythesamesugarsyrupusedtodayandthatweusethroughoutthebook,thesameweightof

sugartowater.(Therecipeisonpage70).ItisveryrichandverysweetandisarealinsightintowhaticeswerelikeinNaplesinthe17thand18thcenturies.

Corrado’s recipe is an even richer edition of the Candito d’Ova tavoletterecipefromthesmall1695Neapolitanleafletandthisisalmostcertainlywheretheinspirationcamefrom.1744RobertBoylequotesinTheWorksoftheHonourableRobertBoyle,VolII1744adescriptiongivenhimbyJohnEvelynthediarist,ofsnowpitsinItalywherebeatensnowwasstored.

Whilewater ices continued to remainmore popular among the French andItalians,theEnglishclearlypreferredicecreams.1747HannahGlasse’sTheArtofCookeryMadePlainandEasy,firstpublishedin1747doesnotmentionicecreamuntilthe1751edition.ThelateBillStallings(inPetitsProposCulinairesNo3,ProspectBooks)questionedifsheevermadeicecreamherselfwhenshewrotethis,orwasjustreportingwhatshehadeitherseen or been told, due to the cursory nature of her description of the process. Despite being frequentlyquoted as an authority by futurewriters, her recipe is very brief and inaccurate so that the resulting icecreamwouldhaveturnedoutunevenlyfrozenandicy,ifmadeaccordingtoherinstructions.

1750FrançoisMenon’sLeScienceduMaîtred’HôtelConfiseurhasrecipesforwaterices,creamicesandrichcustardices.Thereweretobemanyreprints.

1751 JosephGilliers, confectioner to ex-KingStanislausofPolandwho lived inNancy inFrance,wrotewhatistheultimateclassicconfectionerytextbook,LeCannamélisteFrançais.Thisgaveexplicitdetailsofmakingalltypesofconfectioneryandtheserviceoftheseextravagantcourses.

circa 1758 Domineco Negri opens The Pot & Pineapple in Berkeley Square in London. Becomes theleading confectioner in London and ultimately through partnerships and changes in ownership becomesGunters.

1760HannahGlassestates‘getyouricesfromtheconfectioner’inthelatesteditionofher1747book.

1768Emy,L’ArtdeBienFairelesGlacesd’Office,1768Paris,wasthefirstbookeverwrittenexclusivelyonthesubjectofices.Thiscomprehensivebookisacompleteinstructionmanualtomakingicesandhasover85recipesinit(seeabove).Itisaverydifficultandexpensivebooktofindasfewcopieswereprinted.NothingisknownofwhoEmywasalthoughwecontinuetosearch.

THETITLEPAGEFROMTHEFIRSTBOOKPUBLISHEDONWATERICESANDICECREAM,PARIS1768.

1770CourtandCountyConfectioneror,TheHousekeeper’sGuidepublishedby‘anIngeniousForeigner,nowHeadConfectioner to theSpanishAmbassador’ inEngland,withachapteronice-creammakingforthegeneralcookorhousekeeper.

1772SecondeditionofCourtandCountyConfectionerrevealsauthorofaboveasBorella.

1777BythetimeoftheRevolution,variousconfectioneryshopsinNewYorkofferedicecream.Thefirstadvertisementappearedon12May1777 inTheNewYorkGazetteandWeeklyMercury for suchaplaceownedbyPhilipLenzi.LenzireputedlycamefromLondonbutlefttosetupinbusinessinDockStreetandlaterinHanoverSquare,nowrenamedStuyvesantSquareinNewYork.

DOLLYMADISON,THEFIRSTLADY,DIDSERVEICECREAMINTHEWHITEHOUSEFROM1809TO1817,BUTNOTINANICE-CREAMMACHINE,ASDEPICTEDHERE,WHICH

WASNOTINVENTEDUNTIL1846.

1778VincenzoCorrado(1734-1836)publishesIlCredenzierediBuonGustoinNaples,with36recipesforsorbetti,includingsomewithmilkandchocolate,andonewitheggyolksandsugar.

1779M.Dubuisson, by nowowner of theCaféProcope, publishesL’Art duDistillateuretmarchand deliqueurs,considéréescomealimentsinParis,withinformationaboutfreezingtechniques.

1780 Il Confetturiore Piedmontese, Anon published in Torino. Recipes for Sorbetti al fior de latte andsorbettodibiscottini.ThefirstmentionofthesetypesoficesinItaly.

1784FillipoBaldinipublishedDe’SorbettiinNaples.Norecipesbutaseriousdiscussionofthetheoryandpractiseofmakingsorbettiogelati,andtheirmedicinalproperties.Thisbookwarnedagainstthedangerstohealthofeatingices.

1787Thomas Jefferson setsouton the first ofhis two journeys throughSouthernFrance andPiedmont,NorthernItaly.InRozzanoinPiedmontherecordeddetailsoftheicehouses.

‘TheicehousesofRozzanoaredugaboutfifteenfeetdeepandtwentyfeetindiameter,andpoles

aredrivendownallround.Aconicalthatchedroofisthenputoverthem,about15feethigh,

andpiecesofwoodarelaidatthebottomtokeeptheiceoutofthewater,whichdripsfromitandgoesoffbyasink.Strawislaidonthiswoodandthenthehouseisfilledwithice,always

withstrawbetweentheiceandcoveringultimatelywithstraw.

Aboutathirdislostbymelting.Snowgivesamoredelicatetaste

tocreams,buticeisthemorepowerfulcongealerandlastslonger.

Atuftoftreessurroundstheseicehouses.’THOMASJEFFERSONEUROPEANTRAVELDIARIES

EDITEDBYJAMESMCGRATHMORRISANDPERSEPHONEWEENE.

1789 Frederic Nutt was offered 1,000 guineas by a group of London confectioners (equivalent to over£16,500.00or$24,750.00today)NOTtopublishhisconfectionerybook.Theywereafraidthatrevealingthesecretsofice-creammakingwouldruintheirbusinesses.Hisbook,CompleteConfectioner,wasinitiallypublishedanonymously.(The1809editionrevealstheauthorasNutt.)Bearinmindthatmakingiceswasasecretcloselyguardedbytheconfectionersasthisknowledgegaveyouamealticketforlife.

ICECREAM2bottlesofgoodcream6yolksofegg½lbsugar

Mixtheyolks&sugarputthecreamonafireinacasserolefirstputtinginastickofvanilla.Whennearboilingtakeitoff&pouritgentlyintothemixtureofeggs&sugar.Stiritwell.Putitinthefireagainstirringitthoroughlywithaspoontopreventit’sstickingtothe

casserole.

Whennearboilingtakeitoffandstrainitthroughatowel.PutitintheSabattiere.Thensetitintheiceanhourbeforeitistobeserved.Put into the ice a handful of salt, ie a layer of ice & a spoonful of salt now ice all around the

Sabattierei.e.alayeroficealayerofsaltforthreelayersputsaltonthecoverlidoftheSabattiere&coverthewholewithice.

Leaveitstillahalfofaquarterofanhour.ThenturntheSabattiereintheice10minutesopenittoloosenwithaspatulatheicefromtheinner

sidesoftheSabattiere.Shutitandreplaceitintheice.Openitfromtimetotimetodetachtheicefromthesides.Whenwelltaken(prise)stir itwellwiththeSpatula,putit inmoulds,jostlingitwelldownonthe

knee/thenputthemouldintothesamebucketoficeleaveittheretothemomentofservingit.Towithdrawit,immersethemouldinwarmwater.Tossingitwelltillitwillcomeout&turnitintoa

plate.

NB:Thishasbeenprintedaswritten.

circa 1790 Thomas Jeffersonwrites ice cream recipe. Jefferson built an ice house atMontecello. In hisgardenandfarmbooksherecordsthatin1803ittook62wagonsoficetofillit,withonefootthicknessofshavings between the ice and the wall all around. He observed that the ice in 1810 ‘fails’ on 14thSeptember.In1817on20thJanuary‘filledtheicehousewithice.’

1795JosephCorreopenedanice-creamhouseat8thandMarket,inPhiladelphia,wherehesoldicecream‘at themodestpriceof elevenpenniesperglass’, (equal to$1.75 in2005)whichdespite suchclaimsofbeingmodest,wasinrealitynotcheap.

early 1800s Ice farming and the distribution of ice in America (previously only available from localsources)becameimportant.Icewascutandstoredinicehousesforuseduringthesummer.ItwasshippeddowntheeasternseaboardfromBostonasfarsouthasMiami,whichmadepossiblethespreadoficecreamtostateswhichhadnonaturalice.

1803ElizaBonne,whowasvisitingNewYorkin1803,wrotetoherfriendOctaviaSouthgate:‘InthecooloftheeveningwewalkdowntotheBatteryandgointothegarden,sithalfanhour,eaticecream,drinklemonade,hearfinemusic,seeavarietyofpeople,andreturnhappyandrefreshed.’

Hereisaprimarysourceofevidencetoshowthatitwasperfectlyacceptableforrespectableladiestobeseeneatingicecreaminpublicatatimewhentheywouldnotgointorestaurantsorcafes.

Pleasure parks, similar to the Vauxhall and Ranelagh Gardens in London,werealsocreatedattheendofthe18thcentury.GraysFerryinPhiladelphiaandColumbiaGardensinNewYorkwerejusttwoamongstseveralpleasuregardens.Thismeant that ice creamwaspopular, cheap and accessibleby an increasingnumberofpeople.1803-13Alexandre-Balthazar-LaurentGrimoddeLaReynièreproducesthefirstfoodguide,AlmanacdesGourmands andManuel des Amphytrions with mention of the different ice creams to be had in Paris,includingbricks,fromages,moulded,custardandwhippedices.

1806 To obtain fizzy sodawater it is necessary to force carbon dioxide intowater under pressure. ThisprocesswasaEuropeaninventioninthe1770sbytheSwedishchemistTorbenBergmannandtheEnglishchemist Joseph Priestley. It was in America that the soda fountain really achieved success. In 1806

BenjaminStillmanpurchasedaNoothapparatusformakingsodawaterandwiththreepartnersopenedsodafountainsinNewYorkCityandBaltimoreinMaryland.

1807The first pictorial evidence for ice-creamcones is seen in aprint byDebucourt showing awomaneatinganiceinaconeinM.Garchi’scafé/casinoinParis.

1809ThefirstmentionofmarmaladeicecreamisinTheCompleteConfectionerpublishedinEdinburghbyJohnCaird.This isan interestingrecipefor tworeasons.Foodhistoriansshouldnote that this is thefirstmentionofmarmaladeicecreamandCairdsuggeststhatyoupackmouldsinsaltandicein‘wetbladders’as well as paper. ‘An unusual but inspired way of protecting the ice from the saline solution duringfreezing.’

FerdinandoRoberto’spaintingofNeapolitanicecreamsellersshowsaccuratedetailsoffreezingtubandglasscones(seepage15).1816 Carême leaves France to work for The Prince of Wales (later King George IV) in London andBrighton.HereturnedtoFranceinlate1817.Hewasthefirstpersontomentionmoulded‘icedpuddings’and‘IcedCabinetPudding’.Hewasthefirstpersontousethistermratherthanreferringtomouldedfrozenpuddingsasbombes.

1817 Joseph Bell publishes A Treastise on Confectionary, (his spelling) in Newcastle. Formerlyconfectioner to theDukeofNorthumberland, hementions ‘ices in shapes’ (not described in his book asmoulded)aswellasa‘PrinceofWalesIceCream’seepage229.

The artistBartolomeoPinelli produces a series of prints of ice-cream sellers on the sea front atNaples,showingcone-shapedicesinglassgoblets,withafruitsyrup(seepage19).

1820William Alexis Jarrin publishes The Italian Confectioner in London. This is the first mention of‘BombaIce’.Atthattimetheword‘bombe’wasnotusedforanicecreamorice-creammoulds.

1830 Friedrich Goetz publishes a plagiarised edition of Emy in Germany under the title Die KunstGeforornesZuMachen.Plagiarismwentunnoticeduntilwediscovereditin2005.

1832 John Matthews in New York City and John Lippincott in Philadelphia began manufacturing themachineryforsodafountainstotakeadvantageofthenewsodafountaintrend.

1840s In the 1840s in the UK ice cream became more popular and street selling increased due to theavailability of cheaper, imported ice. Sadly, the usual cycle became apparent; partially mechanisedproductionintroducedtomeettheincreasingdemandcertainlyreducedthepricebutinevitablyaffectedthequality.

Wenham Lake Company, near Boston, Massachusetts, in America startsimportingiceintoLondon.TheymadethemselvesfamousbypresentingablockofalmostcompletelyclearicetoQueenVictoria.TheirshopintheStrandusedtohave ablockof ice left tomelt in thewindowwhichdrew large crowds towatch the ice disappearing! In addition they sold pewter moulds andsaccharometers.

1842FredericTudorstartsimportingicefromAmericaintoEngland.Hesellsittoice-creammakers,fishandmeatshopsandhospitals.

1843 Nancy Johnson, wife of a US naval officer, revolutionised ice-cream making by inventing andpatenting (in 1845) a small hand-cranked ice-cream churn,which agitated the ice cream bymeans of aslowly turning paddle (dasher). Her machine was similar to the hand-cranked ice-creammakers still inproductiontoday.

1844TheIceBookpublishedbyThomasMasters,containsexplicitdetailsofthevariousformulaeofice,acidsandsaltsrequiredtoproducevaryingdegreesofcold,listedingreatscientificdetail.

Despite knowing how to make ice artificially it was still prohibitively expensive to produce on acommercial basis, so a large amount of natural icewas still harvested every year, and stored in icehouses, carefully constructed for this precious commodity. Some were pits with a brick or stonestructureatgroundlevel,otherswereonthesurface.

1850SirRobertPeel,M.P.,theoriginatoroftheBritishpoliceforce(knownasPeelers),dies.Nicknamed‘TheRefrigerator’duetohissupportinParliamentforthereductionindutyonimportedice.

CarloGatti, fromTichino, Switzerland, supplies both ice and ice cream inLondon,hisicecartssoldpennyices,‘hokeypokey’(eccounpoco).Hebuildsice wells in St Pancras by the Grand Union Canal in London, to store iceimportedfromNorway,neededtosupplythegrowingdemandforiceinLondon.1851JacobFussellJr,anenterprisingmilkdealer,realisedthattherewasanannualsurfeitofcreaminhisdairybusinessduringthesummermonths.Fussellhitontheideaofmakingicecreamandestablishedthefirstice-creamfactoryat180ExeterStreet,Baltimore.

Theconfectionersat that timehadestablishedacartelforsellingicecream;theirmilkandcreambeingsuppliedbyFussell.

Asamilkandcreamdealer,hehadagreatadvantageovertheconfectionersand was able to undercut them by selling outside their price-fixing cartel, atabout 25 cents as opposed to the confectioners’ 60 cents per quart. Quicklyfinding ice creammore profitable than dealing inmilk, he opened a series offactories in Washington D.C. (1856), Boston (1862) and New York (1864).However, he fell foul of the Associated Confectioners of New York whodemandedthathesoldicecreamattheexorbitantpriceof$1.25perquartwhichherefusedtodo.Fussellwasahard-headedbusinessmanwithgoodcontacts(hewas a friend ofAbrahamLincoln), a fanatical abolitionist and a frugal, hard-working Quaker. Undaunted by the antagonism he aroused, he moved hisbusiness toBostonafterbeingalmost lynched inBaltimoreby rival ice-creammakers. New Yorkers loved Fussell’s ices which he sold at a price that themassescouldafford.Fussell,morethananyoneelse,wasresponsibleforstartingtheAmericans’ loveaffairwith icecream. In1869he took inpartners,oneofwhom,JamesHorton,ultimately tookover thebusiness in1874.Renamed theHortonCompany,itcontinuedassuchuntil1928whenitbecameasubsidiaryoftheBordenCompanywhichisstillinexistence.

PAINTINGBYACHILLEVIANELLI(1803-1894)OFASORBETTISELLEROUTSIDECASTELNUOVO,NAPLES,CIRCA1840.

1855BirthofAgnesMarshall,thegreatestVictorianice-creammonger.

1856 Thomas Fuller patents an ice-creammachine in London. Thomas Fullerwas a bucketmakerwithofficesinJermynStreetandhehadaRoyalAppointmentforsupplyingwoodenbucketstoQueenVictoria.

FIG.I.—Freezer.

1864-5AnAmericancalledRisleyshipsthefirstcowstoJapan,onlyelevenyearsafterJapanwasopenedtotheWest.ThefirstmentionoficecreaminJapanwas1869,accordingtotheJapaneseIceCreamMakersAssociation.IcewasshippedfromChinatoJapaninordertomakeit.However,itwasnotuntil1921that

icecreamwasmanufacturedcommerciallyinJapan.

1876TheFrenchchefCharlesRanhofer,headchefatDelmonico’s inNewYorksince1862,popularisesBakedAlaskapudding.

1878CarloGattidies.Theicebusinesscontinueduntilthe1950s.

1880FirstbananasarriveinUSA.Itwasnotuntil1904thatthebananameticecreamandthebananasplitwasinvented.

1883MaltedmilkfirstmadeinUSA.

1885MrsAgnesB.MarshallpublishesTheBookofIcesintheUK.

1887WilliamHorlickinRacine,WisconsininventsHorlicks®maltedmilk.

1888ThefirstrefrigeratedrailwaytruckincreasedinternaldistributionofmilkaroundtheUnitedStatesandhelpedtocontinuethespreadoficecream.

1891 American Soda Fountain Company formed which was a trust intended to monopolise the sodafountain industry.The four leadingmanufacturersMatthewsandLippincott (see1832above) alongwithTufts andPuffer, (yes, these reallywere their names) fixed prices andmonopolised the industry forcingsomesmallercompaniesoutofbusiness.

PellegrinoArtusipublishesLaScienzainCucinael’ArtediMangiarBeneinFlorence,whereheusesthetermgelatiforallkindsofices.1894MrsMarshall’sFancyIceshasanearlyrecipeforice-creamcones.

19thcenturyDuringthesecondhalfofthe19thcenturyItalywentthroughtremendouspoliticalturmoilasGaribaldi fought for unification, and the subsequent economic upheaval added uncertainty to poverty.YoungItalianimmigrants,mainlyfromLombardia,Emilia,ToscanaandCampania,withtheirtraditionsofice-creammaking,made theirway from Italy toEngland,usuallyon foot, in searchofwork.Their longmarchmusthavetakenseveralmonthsbeforetheyarrivedatanEnglishportwheretheywastednotimeinsettingupinbusinessasice-creammakersorvendors.Whenthesaturationpointforsaleswasreachedintheports,theymovedtoothermajorcitiesandformedcommunitiesinBirmingham,ManchesterandLeeds,whereeven today thirdand fourthgeneration Italianswork in the ice-creambusiness.P.Michaels inhisbook,IcesandSodaFountainDrinks(Maclaren,c.1910),describestheplightofthe‘HokeyPokey’sellerswhoweremainlyunfortunatechildrenwhohadbeenpersuadedtoleaveItalyinsearchofwork.

‘Huddledtogether,mostlyinthepoorerquartersoftown,wherelodgingswerecheapand

sanitaryconditionsoverlooked,theyledalifeofamiserlymotleyvariety,overcrowdedinsleepandwork,morethanill-treated,andforcedtomakelongjourneystogeticeandsaltcheapinthe

earlyhoursofthemorning.Theywerethenmadetofreezethe

icecreamunderrevoltingsanitaryconditions,eitherinbadlyventilatedshedsor,asintheItalianquarterinLondon,onthepavementsthemselvesandthendragtheirheavybarrows,onanemptystomach,todistantpitchesinthetownwheretheboysandhooligansofthe

neighbourhoodannoyedthem,broketheirglasses,threwdirtymatterintheirfreezersandsent

themhomeintearswithoutmoney.Wasthereanysympathywhentheyreached‘home’?Nothingexceptcursesandblows

forthesmalltakings.Butonedayamaddened‘garzone’stabbedhisbullying‘padrone’withhisicepickandlefthimdead,lyingacrossatub.’

Thisepisodegainedwidespreadpublicityandfortunatelystartedanimprovementinthesystemofmakingandsellingicecream,butittookaverylongtimetoloseitsreputationnotonlyforexploitingyoungItalianchildrenbutalsoforpoorsanitaryconditions.

AtthatstageAmericaalsofollowedtheEnglishtasteforicedcreamsasopposedtothewaterices.SomuchicecreamisconsumedtodayinAmericathatithasbecomeoneofthenationaldishesalongwithapplepieandhamburgers.ManyAmericansevenconsidericecreamtobeanAmericaninvention.

1900sBy the 1900s soda fountains, first introduced in the 1820s, and popularised in the late 1800s hadbecomeanintegralpartoftheice-creambusiness.Thesodafountainfoundahomeinthedrugstoreasthemaking of carbonatedwater required a chemical process and the local pharmacist was the chemist, thealchemist and the druggist. The acids and gasses in drug stores made explosions in these premises acommonfeature.

Increased availability of ice cream unfortunatelywent hand in handwith a decline in standards. Icecreamsoldonthestreets,madebyunscrupulouswholesalers,oftenhadabutterfatcontentoflessthan2%andwasdescribedbytheconfectionersas‘cheaptrash’.Ofdoubtfuloriginandhygienestandards,neverthelesstheseicessoldinhugequantitiesinthesummermonths.Itisdisappointinghowlittlehaschangedsincethen.

1902 Mechanical refrigeration takes over from salt and ice in the ice-cream industry. This meant thatcompanieswereno longer controlledby fluctuations in theprice of salt, or ice famines followingwarmwinters.

AntonioValvonapatentshisice-creamconeinManchester.1903ItaloMarchioni(orMarchiony)patentsanedibleice-creamconeinNewYork.

1904BananasplitinventedinLatrobe,PennsylvaniaUSAbyDavidEvansStrickler.Itwasabanana-based,triple ice cream (vanilla, chocolate, strawberry) sundae. Pineapple, chocolate and strawberry syrup areaddedthennutsandcreamandamaraschinocherry.Seepage302

1905 Frank Epperson, aged 11, invents the Popsicle, an ice on a stick. The story goes that he left hislemonade out on the porchwith a stir stick in it. That particular nightwas a record cold night and thelemonadefrozewiththestickinit.Inthemorninghehadafruit-flavourediceonastick.HecalledittheEpsicle.Hepatenteditin1924.

1905DeathofMrsMarshall.BookrightssoldtoWardLock.

1910GoodHumourBarinventedbyHarryBurtSr.inYoungstown,Ohio.

It was a candy sucker/lollypop but initially it was not frozen. He laterinventedachocolate-coveredice-creambar.1919 InUSAprohibitionhadbeenslowly,butsteadily,gatheringmomentumsince themid19thcentury.WhentheProhibitionActcameintoforce,itdidmorefortheice-creamindustrythananyothersingleevent

since the inventionof thehand-cranked ice-creammakerasalloverAmerica,majorbeermanufacturers,such asAnheuser-Busch andYuenlings, changed tobecome important ice-creammanufacturers andbarswereconvertedintoice-creamparlours.

ICECREAMFORTHEPOOR.FRANKLESLIE’SILLUSTRATEDNEWSPAPER,28AUGUST1895.

Upuntilthe1920sicecreamwasasummertimebusinesswithSeptember/Octobermarkingtheendoftheseason.Homefreezershadnotbeeninventedandicecreammadeathomewasconsumedwithinafewhours.Ifpurchasedandbroughthomeicecreamhadtobeeatenbeforeitmelted.

Duringthisperiod,duetothecompetition,ice-creammakersbecamecreativeandstartedtoproduceicecreaminavarietyofcolours,shapesandcombinationsincluding‘EskimoPie’,‘GoodHumour’and‘Popsicle’.

1921EskimopieinventedbyChristianKentNelsoninOttawa.Itwasafoil-wrapped,chocolate-coveredicecream.

1923The factory-filled paper cup of ice creamwas introduced byH. P. Hood of Boston in 1923 at theNationalIceCreamConventioninCleveland,andwascalledthe‘Hoodsie’.ItwasrenamedtheDixieCupin1924.

In the USA the A&P chain of supermarkets were the first company tointroduce ice-cream cabinets throughout their 1,200 stores and other grocery

chainsquicklyfollowedsuit.1924FrankEppersonpatentsthePopsicle,anicecreamonastick.Seeentryfor1905.

Increasedmechanisationcontained thepriceand increasedproductionbetweenthetwoworldwars.Itwasatthistimethatthesaltandiceeracametoanendincommercial production, although theywere still used formaking ice cream athome.Improvementsindomesticandcommercialrefrigerationmadeicecreamavailable all the year round and enabledAmericans to become the largest percapitaice-creamconsumersintheworldwhichtheyremain.1929RockyRoadinventedbyWilliamADreyer,seepage130.

early1930sThedepressionofthe1930sandtheendingofProhibitioninDecember1933broughtasuddenstoptotheseeminglyendlessgrowthoftheice-creamindustry.Whichofthesetwofactorswastheworseno one will ever know, but together they were a disaster for this flourishing business. Street sellersreappearedandsodidtheresentmentoftheshopkeeperswhodemandedthelicensingofthestreetpeddlers.Cheapproductsmadefrominferior ingredientsabounded,asdid the ice-creambootleggersellinginferiorproductsinaknownmaker’scabinet.Thecustomer,assumingthattheknownmaker’siceshaddeteriorated,wouldswitchtoanotherbrand.Thispracticewasalmostuncontrolledandwasonlystoppedwheneconomicconditionsimproved.

late1930sTheice-creamindustrywasagainbuoyant.From1937salesstartedtoachievenewrecordseveryyear,onlytoleveloffonceAmericajoinedtheSecondWorldWar.DuringthewarAmericanservicemenusedanumberofinterestingandingeniouswaystomakeicecream.Aircrewsplacedanice-creammixinthe large cans that were stored in the rear gunner’s compartment in the B29s andwhen the aeroplanesreturned from their sorties, icecreamhadbeenmadebyacombinationof thevibrationand the freezingtemperaturesofhigh-altitudeflying.

1943TheUS armed forces were the world’s largest ice-creammanufacturers and in 1945 the USNavyproduceda floatingbarge thatwasan ice-creamparlourwithamanufacturingcapacityof10gallonspersecond.

IcecreamwasnotmadeinBritainduringthewarasLordWoolton,theFoodMinister,hadbanned themanufacture tosave transportandmanpower. Insteadan ice-cream substitute (made with water, flour and sometimes parsnips) wassold under the old name of Hokey Pokey to get around the governmentregulations.

Churchillobjectstothebanningoficecreamseepage64.1945onwardsAfter thewarended themarket inBritainwasdominatedbyWalls,LyonsandEldorado.Hereice-creamsalescontinuedtogrowinthe1950sand1960sbutitwasnotuntilthe1970sand1980sthatnewformulationsbegantoappearattheoppositeendsofthecaloriescale,withyoghurtatthelowendandsuper premium at the top end. Since then ice-cream sales have continued to growwithmore andmoreextravagant formulations andgreaterdemands from thevariouspressuregroups for lowcholesterol, lowcalorieanddairyfree,andfromthepublicforrealqualityicecream.

1995Firsttimeice-creamsalesinUnitedKingdomexceed£100,000,000/$150,000,000.

ServingIceCream&TheBirthoftheIce-CreamCone

Ices were regarded as little short of magic by diners in the 17th and 18thcenturies.Theywererare,expensivetomakeandhadashortlife;becauseoncemade they had to be eaten as quickly as possible, as they could be neitherproperlyhardenednorstoredformorethanafewhours.

Atfirstsuchauniquedelicacyhadnosuitabledishinwhichtobepresented.Howeverby1754aspecialcupforservingicecreamwasavailable.Craftsmenhadacknowledgedandcreatedavesselforthisextraordinarynewdelight,forinthatyear,on23June,MadamedePompadourordered‘unpetitplateaublancetquatre tasses pour mettre des glaces ’ at a cost of 60 livres from Vincennes(LivreJournaldeLazareDuvaux).InthefollowingyearKingLouisXVordereda dinner service which included a plateau with five or seven tasses à glace.These small porcelain cups, no more than 6.5 cm (2½ inches) high, werebeautifullypaintedandjewel-like.

InL'ArtdeBienFairebyEmy,publishedin1768,hedescribesandillustratesGoblets à glace, together with their plateau (a flat dish raised on a pedestalbase),whichhelistsintheindexasbeingmadeofglass,crystalandporcelain.Thesecupsandgobletswereinavarietyofstyleswithnohandles,onehandleortwohandles.InItalytheywerereferredtoasgiarre.

TheSèvresdinnerserviceforCatherinetheGreat,deliveredin1779,wasfor60settingsandincluded20plateauxfor116ice-creamcups.Alsosuppliedwere10 ice-cream coolers. These consisted of an outside container, decorated tomatchtherestoftheservice.Insidetherewasaremovablebowlwithsufficientspacebelowtoholdice.Inadditionicecouldbepiledintherecessedlidofthecooler, to match the rest of the service but with the additional decoration ofgildediciclesaroundtheedge.

The Louis XVI Sèvres dinner service commissioned in 1783 for use atVersailles had single-handled ice-cream cups on round platters. This set,probablythemostextravaganteverproducedintheSèvresfactory,wasplannedtotaketwenty-threeyearstofinish,butwasnevercompleted.Thehalfthatwas

madewaslateracquiredbythePrinceofWales(laterKingGeorgeIV)in1794andisnowinthecollectionofHerMajestytheQueen.

Icesbroughtoutthecreativityintheconfectionersastherewasnoacceptedwayofservingandeatingices.Theycouldbeservedwithaflourishoficypeaksas described by the 17th century Tuscan poet, Francesco Redi, in his poemArianna Infirma : ‘Finest frozen snow rising from the rims of the goblets inhillocks’.

At the dining table they could also be served in recognisable fruit shapeshavingbeenmouldedinpewtermoulds.

In cafes and on the streets iceswere eaten from small hand-blownglasses.The1825Boillyprint(previouspage)fromParisshowstwopeopleeatingtheirice creamwith a spoon; the third is eating straight fromaglass goblet.Thesegobletsappeartobecone-shapedandhavenohandles.

In1745theGlassExciseTaxinBritainwasleviedontherawmaterialsusedinthemakingofglass,thusincreasingthecostofthefinishedproduct.Furtherglasstaxeswereimposedthroughoutthecenturyuntilin1845theGlassExciseTaxwasabolishedandcheaperglassproductscouldbemade.Thisopenedthedoor to theproductionofcheapmouldedglassesusing thenewmouldedglasstechniques.

THEICECREAMCAFEBYJ.B.ISABEY,LEBONGENRE,PARIS1827.

Withicesbeingsoldincafesandonthestreetsineverincreasingquantitieswhatwasneededwasasturdy,cheapcontainerforicecream.Cafesfavouredabetterqualityofglass,mouldedorblown,withalargerbowlandwerefrequentlyservedwithaspoononaplate.

On the streets the cheapest form of moulded glass became known as thepenny lick. Aware of the possibilities of greater profits, ice-cream sellerspromoted licks inwhich thebowlbecame increasingly filledwithglass to thepoint,insomecases,whereitwasalmostsolid.Thiscreatedanopticalillusion,withtheglassreflectingtheiceandgivingtheappearanceofagobletfulloficecream.Afurtherimpressionoflargerservingswasachievedbyshapingtheicecreamintothetraditionalpeakusingawoodenpaddle.Thecostof thevariouslicks bore no guarantee as to the quantity provided - the size of the servingdependedonthegenerosity,orotherwise,oftheice-creamvendor.

HOWTOSERVEPENNYLICKS.

In time theyproved sopopular and sowidely available that a smallerhalf-penny lickanda larger two-penny lickwerecreated togetherwithother stylessuchasthereversiblehalf-pennyandpennylicks.

The alternativemethod of serving ice creamwas to wrap ices, cut from abrick, in waxed paper and sell them to be taken away and eaten from thewrapper.

Theice-creamseller,oftentobefoundattheseaside,favouredtheglasslickswhichcouldberepeatedlyused,frequentlywithoutbeingwashed.Theywouldlast for years and created no litter, unlike the paper used forwrappingHokeyPokey.Afurtheradvantageofservingicecreaminthelickwasthatcustomers,instead of continuing their promenade along the beach, would be obliged tostandaroundtheice-creamsellercreatingacrowd,untiltheyhadfinishedtheiricecreamandreturnedthelick.

Licksremainedpopularevenaftertheinventionoftheice-creamcone.Thiswasprobablyduetothecostofthecones,theinconvenienceofstorageandthefact that they broke. Licks remained in widespread use until 1926when theywere finally outlawed in London for spreading diseases, particularlytuberculosis.Overthenextfewyearsbansfollowedinvarioustownsthroughoutthecountry.

PENNYLICKSGLASSES.

The origins of the ice-cream cone are full of controversy and the storieswhichaboundhavebecomepartofice-creamfolklore.Themostplausibleoriginfortheconewasentirelyevolutionary.Ice-creammanufacturers,facedwiththechallenge of creating a container, at a very low cost, turned to their skills asconfectionersandpâtissiersandproducedbiscuit,waferandwafflecones.Italianice-creamsellersinEnglandandtheUnitedStatesmaywellhavebeeninspiredbytheoldSicilianandNeapolitantraditionofcuttingopenabriosca(atypeofbrioche)andfillingitwithicecreamorgranitaandeatingitonthewaytoworkinthemorning.(InNaples,theGelateriadellaScimmiastillservesforbreakfastabrioscafilledwithanunflavouredcreamgelatothatreliesoncreamaloneforitsflavour.ThisisalsocommoninSicily.Theperfectwaytostarttheday.MrsMarshallfeatures‘cornets’inherbookFancyIces,1894.Christinacornets(picturedonpage35)werefilledwithapintofvanillaicecreammixedwithtwoouncesoffinelydiceddriedfruits,cinnamon,gingerandMaraschino; thecornetswerepipedwithroyal icingand thendipped inchopped,blanchedpistachionuts and frozen.Margaret cornetswere filledwith gingerwater ice and apple ice cream to ‘serve for adinnersweetordessert’.ThisisthefirsttimeicecreaminconesorcornetswererecordedinEngland.

COLDKITCHENFROMCUISINEARTISTIQUEBYURBAINDUBOIS1872.

Today Heston Blumenthal at The Fat Duck restaurant in Bray in Englandfeaturessimilarbeautifullymademiniaturecones.

Themostpopularstoryconcerningtheoriginsoftheice-creamconefollowsacertainErnestA.Hamwi,aSyrian fromDamascuswhocame toStLouis in1903 and obtained a concession at the 1904 World’s Fair to sell zalabia, aPersianpastrybakedonawaffleiron.Hisstallwasnexttoanice-creammakerwhowas selling his ice creams in small dishes.During the fair the ice-cream

seller ran out of dishes and the enterprising Hamwi rolled his wafers into‘cornucopias’andputascoopoficecreaminside.The‘World'sFairCornucopia’was apparently an instant success.Another claimant isAbeDoumarwho alsowasoneofthefiftyice-creamconcessionairesatthe1904World’sFair.

On28April1954,theInternationalAssociationofIceCreamManufacturersheldaspecialconventionattheChaseHotel,StLouis,tocelebratefiftyyearsoftheice-creamconeanditsinventor,ErnestA.Hamwi.However,on29October1954, theNewYorkTimes carried an obituary reporting the death of one ItaloMarchiony, an Italian immigrant who not only claimed to have been sellingcones in 1896, a claim for which there is no evidence so far to support, butcertainlyhadappliedforapatenton22September1903;wellbefore the1904World’sFair.Examinationof thispatentshowsthat itwasforamultiplecone-maker,making10conesata time,whichcertainlysuggestsanearlierdate fortheinventionbyMarchiony.Hisgrandson,WilliamMarchiony,writingin1984intheN.I.C.R.A.Bulletin (National IceCreamRetailersAssociation)says thatItalo,whohadarestaurantonWallStreet,wasnonetoosuccessfularestaurateuranddecidedtoselllemonice,duringthehotNewYorksummers,fromacartinthe street.Thesehe served in ‘thick-bottomed,oversizewhiskey shotglasses’.Washingupwasaproblem(UShygienelawswereaheadofthoseinBritain)andthe glasses were being stolen, so he changed to paper cones which were aninstantsuccess.Nexthesoldicecreamaswellaslemon(water)iceandin1903hadtheinspirationtomakeanediblecone.Thiswasnotaconeasweknowittodaybut ‘was pre-bakeddough that remained soft enough to be rolled into aconeat the timeof sale’.Thiswasalsoa successand Italowenton further todevelop themachine thatwouldbake the cone.Thiswas a considerable time-saverandproducedaneater ‘package’.Orderspoured in for thecones,andhemoved to New Jersey, disbanded his fleet of push carts and concentrated onmanufacturing cones.He purposely designed amachine tomanufacture coneswith anoverlapping seam thatwould lookhand-rolled.Marchionyalso claimshisgrandfatherwasthefirstpersontomakeanice-creamsandwich(wafer)byputtingasliceoficecreambetweentwowafflesquarescutfromasheet.

DETAILFROMDEBUCOURT’SCAFEFRASCATIIN1807,SHOWINGAYOUNGWOMANEATINGANICE-CREAMCONE.

TheprintofFrascati’s inParis in1807byDebucourt, clearly showsa ladyeatingicecreamoutofacone.Thisistheearliestexamplewehavefoundthatunquestionablyshowsaconebeingpickedupandeaten.Whethertheconewasedibleorglassisnotclearbutitcertainlyisacone.

Frascati was a cafe, restaurant, and gambling house, famous in its day inParis.Itoriginallyopenedin1789,onwhatisnowtheRueRichelieu,acrosstheroadfromwhatwasthen‘TheGardensofFrascati’.ANeapolitannamedGarchipurchasedFrascatiabout1792. (The firstcafe inPariswasopened in1686bythe Sicilian Francesco Procopio del Coltelli from Palermo in Sicily and wascalled‘Procope’.ThereisstillarestaurantofthatnameinParis.)

Frascatiismentionedinliteratureandthereareanumberofreferencestoitin

Chapter Six of William Makepeace Thackeray’s Vanity Fair. Part of theattractionandsuccessofFrascatiwasthathithertoonly‘womenofquestionablerepute’ frequented cafes which were in those days almost exclusively a malepreserve. Frascati’s reputation was such that any lady could be seen therewithoutanyhintofastainonhercharacter.

DescriptionsofFrascatiarenumerousbecauseitwassofamous.This‘greatestablishmentofpleasure’had frontageon theBoulevardMontmartreof someonehundredand thirtyyardsandon theRueRichelieuof fiftyyards. Itwasasubstantialsiteanditconsistedofadecoratedbuildingandapleasantgardenfulloftrees.

Sadly, Garchi died insolvent in 1809 practically ruined by the opening ofTivoli in Rue St. Lazare nearby. He had failed to keep up with the otherfashionableestablishments.Frascaticontinuedundernewownershipandfinallyclosedatmidnighton1January,1838,whenabanonallgaming-housescameintoforceinthewholeofFrance.

WehavesofarbeenunabletotracemuchaboutFrascati,exceptthatalthoughhehasaSiciliannamehecamefromNaples.

WhatareIces&WhatisGelato?

Ices,withtheiraccompanyingpetitsfours,bringthedinnertoaclose–

atleastasfarasCookeryisconcerned;and,whentheyarewell

preparedanddaintilydished,theyaretheconsummationofall

thatisdelicateandgood.Innootherdepartmentoftheworkhastheculinaryartistsofreelyindulgedhisfancy,orcreatedsuchdelectablekickshaws;

and,thoughItalybethecradleoftheice-worker’sart,thoughtheNeapolitanshavedeservedlymaintainedtheirreputationasauthoritiesinthismatter,

toFrenchworkmen,certainly,isduethecreditofthoseinnovationswhichhaveperfectedthisimportant

branchofdieteticscience.AUGUSTEESCOFFIER.1846–1935.

AGUIDETOMODERNCOOKERY1907.

IcesThe purpose of this chapter is to attempt to outline recipes and define terms.Definitions are needed because what one nation calls a certain type of ice,anotherwilllabelratherdifferently.

IfwestartwiththewordICEStheproblembeginstoemerge.InthisbookwhenwerefertoICESweuseitasacollectivenounforalltypes

of ice creams, gelatos, sorbets, granitas and frozen desserts that have beensolidified or semi-solidified by freezing. This is contrary to current usage inUSAwhereICESusuallyrefersexclusivelytosorbetsandperhapssherbets.

Fittingatypicalrecipetoatypeoficeisextraordinarilydifficultanditisonlyafter substantial research that we decided to go with history, as historicalevidenceseemstobetheonly(somewhat)fixedpointfromwhichtosortoutthis

considerablemuddle.Withonlyacursorystudyof thehistoryof ices theenormityof themuddle

becomesmanifest.Rangingacrossmanycontinents,alwaysborrowing,adaptingand refining theelements fromverydisparatecultures, theoriginsofwhataretoday’sicesarereflectedinaverycomplexmixtureoflanguagesthatcontributeto the titles. The further back you travel, the less was written and it is onlypossible to take mildly informed guesses as to what went on. The closer wemove to thepresent, themoreweareable todetectnuancesofhow iceshavebeenalteredbyfashion,socialchanges,newsciencesandevenindividualchefs.

Here Americans may be surprised, even offended, to find sherbets andparfaitsarequiteanothertypeoficetothetypetheywouldexpectandgelatonotquitetheicecreamtheywouldwish.

Todigressalittle;parfaitisaparticularlyinterestingword.HereintheUKithasrecentlytakenoffonaverydifferentjourneyofitsown.Itisnowcommontocomeacrossitunderstarters/horsd’oeuvres/appetisersonarestaurantmenu,preceded by words like chicken liver.What you get is a rich pâté.What the‘parfait’ bit means we are not sure.We have our own ideas about how, why,whenandwherethisusagecameabout–butthatisnotforthisbook,itsimplyservestoshowtheconstantchangethatgoeson.

Andwe,inourturnhavehadtoacknowledge,changeandtempertherecipestotoday’stastes,ingredientsandequipment.Wecanonlyhopethatyouadmireourbravestabatclarityenoughtoforgiveanyoffencetonationalpride.

Foravisualplanoftherelationshipofthemaintypesoficesseeourdiagrambelow.

Theabsenceofeggs in thediagrammight seemcurious.Although theyareessential in many ices, their presence is not necessary when showing therelationshipbetweenices.

SoWhatisGelato?‘Youaskedmewhatthedifference

betweengelatoandicecreamis,(longpause)Iguessabout50centsto1dollarascoop.’

ANONYMOUSF.D.AOFFICIALINWASHINGTON.SEPTEMBER2006INPHONECONVERSATION.

Sincethepublicationofourlastbookthewordgelatohascomeintowidespreadcommonusageandwearefrequentlyasked-whatisthedefinition?

Frankly the word symbolises one almighty muddle, but, since gelato hasbecomeinterchangeablewith‘icecream’,wethoughtitwastimetobefoolhardyenough to try and trace a pathway through a brief history to the present day.Then,daringly,wemight arriveat a conclusion,one firmenoughonwhich tobaseadefinition.

Notmanyauthorsgothereitseems.Onesuch,recently,underadefinitionofgelato,wrote, ‘I leavegelatomaking to the Italians’, thusvacating the area atgreatspeed.Wehavesomesympathy.

At the timeofwriting thesituation isbroadly thus; thediet-consciousUSAhas fastened onto gelato with enthusiasm seeing it as milkier, less sweet,generally lighterandtherefore lowcalorieandhealthier.Thiscoupledwith the

factthat itseemsmoreculturedandknowingtoaskforagelatoratherthananicecream,meansithasslippedeasilyintothelanguage.

We were unable to find the word used in the United Kingdom in themagazines of the Ice Cream Alliance between 1930 to 1980 with the oneexceptionof an ice-creammaker known as ‘Gelato Joe’.Nowadays inBritaingelato only becomes defined in the South-Westwhere restaurants sell any icecreamat a premium if it is calledgelato. It seems fair to say that the averageBritonwouldfeeluncomfortableaskingforagelato.

In the restofEurope,France still adheres tonational food traditionson thewholeandprefers theclassiceggcustardandcream-basedices.Gelatobothinconcept and thename seems tohave largelypassed themby. It is available inItalianrestaurantsofwhichtherearefew.

In Spain they have helado which just means ice cream, which just meansanything.

GermanysimplystickswithEis,eveninalmostallItalianrestaurantsunless

theyhaveamenuinItalian.InSwedenitisglace,andinDenmarkit is is.GelatoisonlyusedinItalian

restaurants.ButwhatofItaly,homeofices,andhomeofgelato.Inviewofitsheritage,

this is the saddest state of all.When you approach a gelateria to buy an icecreamitmaypromisegelatoartigianale,onasignoutsideorabovethecounter.The implication is that this ishome-made icecream,madeon thepremisesbythe proprietor; unfortunately, more often than not, all this means is that amanufacturer’smixismadeuponthepremises,thenflavouredandfrozenbytheproprietor. This is sold as a gelato artigianale. Anything else is also merelycalledgelato.Andwehaveprobablyupsetalotoffriendsbywritingthis.

Thiswholesituationhascomeaboutbecauseofthefailureoftheindustrytoself-regulate and the fact that no government or trade association can agree afirm definition of what gelato is, legally. The best effort so far is from TheEuropean Association of Home-made Ice Cream Makers, ARTGLACE whoproducedthefollowingdefinition:-

GelatoArtigianalediProduPropria(GelatoArtigianalemadebytheproprietor)Thisisahigh-qualityfoodproductusingamixtureofnaturalingredientsandpleasantflavourings,

subjectedtohotandcoldtreatmentandcreamedattemperaturesbelowfreezing,incorporatingair(lessthan50%),extrudedintheformofapasteandintendedtobeconsumedinthisstate.Producedbyaprofessional ice-creammaker in facilitiesconforming tohealth regulations (asper

EECDirective92/46andapprovedbytheItalianMinistryofHealthon22/12/1992incircularletterno42)employinga limitednumberofstaffasstipulatedby therulesofcraftsmanship, innon industrialquantitiesandsoldinshopsequippedwiththeabilitytoguaranteethequalityoftheproduct.

Ohdear.Theyforgottomentiontheactualingredients.Sowhat is gelato? If we start with the word, it is first necessary to know

somethingofthecontextinwhichthewordgelatoevolved.TheperiodourresearcheshaveshowntobeofmaininterestisNaplesaround

the17thand18thcentury.AtthistimeItalyasanationdidnotexist.Itwasmadeup of a constantly heaving number of warring independent states, some withtheirowngovernment,sometimesmonarchs,allspeakingeitherotherlanguages,ortheirversionofItalian.(TothisdayItalypublishesdictionariestoaidItaliansindealingwithNeapolitanandSicilian.)

TheBourbon(Spanish) influencewasdominant inNapleswhere they ruledfrom 1503-1707 and formost of 1734 to 1860. There is no question that theinfluenceoftheBourbonKingsoftheTwoSicilies,NaplesandSicily,withtheirextravagant level of entertaining met with and matched the Neapolitanaristocracy’sloveoffoodandconspicuousconsumption.

Itisinterestingtonotethathelado(ice)andcongelare(freeze)–bothSpanishwords–arefoundtransposed in theItalianwordgelato.But thenSpanishwasthelanguageoftheNeapolitancourtduringtheBourbonoccupation.

To introduce any sort of formality to this shifting picture it is necessary toconsult the published academic texts of the period. The first dictionary,Vocabulario,compiledbytheAccademiadellaCruscainFlorencein1612,didnot include theword gelato, nor in 1686, or 1691, but in 1688 in an updatedversionofJohnFlorio’sEnglish/ItaliandictionaryorWorldeofWords there isanentryforgelato,definingitas‘frozen,congealed,gellied.’Theentryofthisword is important; the definition is evenmore interestingwith the use of theword‘gellied.’

Asalwayswithresearch,evengiventhisdate,itisnecessarytokeepanopenmind.Itwouldbewrongtoassumeicesdidnotexistbeforethis,bearinginmindthat in this period life moved at a very different pace and there would be aconsiderablepausebeforeeventswereabsorbed,letalonerecorded.Soweweredelighted to come across primary evidence that frozen ices did indeed exist.Therewere undoubtedlymilk-based frozen ices around, but, at that time, theywerereferredtoassorbetto.Twoexamplesmakeussureofthis;Latini,stewardto the PrimeMinister of Naples, published a book, Lo Scalco allaModerna,1694, inwhichhe refers toasorbettadi lattebut, typicalof the time,withoutgivingafullrecipeormethod.

We also came across a smallNeapolitan leaflet,without author, containingsome 20 recipes for sorbetta; all milk-based ices. We were able to date thisleafletatcirca1695byexaminationofthetype-face,butthereisnomentionofgelato. Only two of these recipes contained egg yolks, one is ImperialeAmnantecato,callingfor10eggyolksandtheotherCanditod’Ovaà tavolettewhichcalledfor12eggyolks.Thesearetheonlyegg-richiceswehavefound.ThenextcropsupinVicenzoCorrado,IlCredenzieredeBuonGusto,1778.

Thefirst timethewordgelati isused todescribefrozen icesappears in thisimportant quote for food historians in Le Cucine della Memoria there is aquotation from theRoman news sheet of 1710 and is found in theBibliotecaCasanaterise.Here,with the clash of cymbals and a drum roll, sorbettimeetsgelati.

‘TheCardinalAcquaviva,entrustedwithbusinessonbehalfoftheCourtofPhilipVofSpain,afterhavingofferedabundantrefreshmentsinhispalaceattheNunziaturapaidavisittothe

CardinalAltham,MinistertoHisMajestybywhomhewasreceivedwithalldue

ceremony,therewerepresentmanyprelatesandnoblemenfromvariousnations.Onthisparticularoccasiontherewasalavishbanquetwitheverykindoffruit,icesdecoratedwithmulticolouredflowers,aprofusionofwaters,sorbettidigelati,thedrinkingchocolatewasmostrefinedandexquisite.Allthesedelicacieswereoffered

totheservantsandpassersby.*

*LECUCINEDELLAMEMORIA,PERIBENICULTURALI,EDIZIONEDILUCA.ROMA.1995

BLREFPER.EST358/2.P159DIARIOORDINARIOD’UNGHERIA,ANNO1721,NUM562,PP4-5.

Tosumupfromalltheabove,wehaveahypothesis,asyetunproved,thatthewordgelatohasevolvedasaresultof theSpanishinfluenceontheNeapolitanlanguage.That thewordsorbettowasestablishedasacatch-all for frozen icespriortotheappearanceofthewordgelato.Sorbettodenotedafrozenicemadeupofwaterand/ormilk,plussugar.

Theadditionofeggs into themixturewasaparalleldevelopment.Howeverwe think it is fair to say that the additionof eggs appears roughly to coincidewiththeuseofthewordgelato,standingalone,todenoteadifferentcategoryofices.

Forthenextonehundredandfiftyyearsnotalothappenedthatneedconcernushere.Theauthorstakegreatpleasureinwritingtheprecedingsentence.

ItwasnotuntilAntonioPuttiinhisEnciclopedico-Intuitivoin1862listsandillustratesasorbettiera andsorbetto.Thewordsorbettiera is illustratedwithapewterpotinawoodenbucketandthewordsorbettoisshowninasmallglassonaplatewithaspoon.Gelatoisalsoshownthesamewayinaglassonaplateinanalmostidenticaldrawing.Sowehaveprogressedwitheachwordreceivingadefinitionandanillustration.

ModernGelatoThe next significant step was the invention of cornflour or cornstarch frommaize.ThiswasdiscoveredbyThomasKingsford,anEnglishimmigranttotheUSA,in1842.Cornflour/cornstarchrepresentedtotheice-creamtradeawayofreplacing expensive eggs with a cheap thickener. Themakers rapidly adaptedtheirrecipes,totheextentthatinkeyareasofItaly,particularlyinthesouth,itcompletelyreplacedeggstobecomethecharacteristicingredientofagelato.

Cornflour/cornstarchhasthreemainqualities:-1.Thecharacteristicwhitenessoftheresultingice.2.Itdoesitsjobwithoutcontributinganyfatwhichtendstomasktheflavours.3.Cornflour/cornstarchhasasmoothtextureandnoflavour.Siciliangelatosareusuallymadewithmilkandcornflour/cornstarch.Asyougo furthernorth toNaples,Neapolitan gelato is made with milk and eggs and in the north of Italy there is a considerable Frenchinfluence andmilk, eggs and cream are all used. However, as always, there are exceptions to all theseobservations.

Itbearsrepeatingthatoftheremaining‘Artigianale’manufacturersinItalymanybuyinmixeswhichtheyflavourandthenfreeze.Thesemixescontainemulsifiersandstabilisersthatallowtheicestobestableattemperatures in thecabinets inshopsofaround10ºC/50ºFwithoutappearing tomelt. Italsomakes themmucheasiertoscoop.(Itmaypuzzlemanytravellersthatonaboilinghotday,theresitstheicecream,in

theheatoftheday,pileduplikeSydneyOperaHouseandshowingnosignsofmelting.)

In Italian gelaterias you used to be able to tell almost certainly, just bylooking,iftheicecreamwasmadebytheownerofagelateria,astheiceswouldbe kept in the serving counters in long, narrow stainless steel containers. Theicesproducedbythefacelessconglomerateswereusuallyinlong,narrowplasticdisposable containers. But now the conglomerates make their ices to fit thestainlesscontainersandyoucannolongertellifitismadeonthepremisesorinamass production factory. And even if it ismade on the premises itmay bemadefromamixdeliveredinplasticbucketsorsacks,andunfortunatelymanygelaterias’solecontributionbeingtheflavouringandthefreezing.

Wehavenowreachedtheendofafairlytortuousroutebutwefeelwehaveestablishedenoughtoarriveatthisconclusivedefinition:-

Gelatoshouldbemadewithmilkandeithereggorcornflour.Historicallyitwasmadewitheggsandmilk. Itdidnotcontaincream; the fat in thegelatocame from theeggyolks.Nowgelatomeans justaboutanykindoficecream.

Equipment

Theequipmentwithwhichpeoplechoosetocookisaspersonaltothemastheclothestheywear,theirjewellery,orthepaintingstheyhangontheirwalls.Youbuy what suits you best and what is best for one person can be whollyunsuccessfulforanother.

Our list below will help you sort your way through the vast range ofequipmentthatisnowavailabletotheice-creammaker.BainMarieSeedoublesaucepan.

BlenderSeefoodprocessor/liquidiser.

Bombe/ice-creammouldsAllmouldsmadeespeciallyforicecreamhavealidandareusuallymetal;thelidhelpsprevent theformationof icecrystalson thesurfaceof the icecream;metal is themostefficientconductorofheatandcold,i.e.whentheiceisputintothefreezerorwhenitisunmoulded.

Simplebombemouldsarereadilyavailableingoodkitchenwarestoresorviathe internet. The cheapest are aluminium which do not take kindly todishwashers.Muchmoreexpensiveonesaremadeofcopperlinedwithtin.Wefavourthecoppermouldsthathavescrew-inplugsthatactasbasesonwhichthemoulds can stand. To turn out the frozen ice the plug is unscrewed, whichreleasesthevacuum,enablingtheicetoslideout.(Somepeoplegiveagoodoldblowthroughtheholetoaidtheprocess.)

Middle of the range in price and decoration are the square-shapedmouldswith a fluted pattern on the base.These are now sometimesmade in stainlesssteel.Ornateice-creammouldsareavailablefromspecialistshopsinFranceandtheUSA(seeUsefulAddressespage324).

ForadviceonthemostsuccessfulshapestouseseeBombes&MouldedIcespage256.

NOTE: Do not use antique or reproduction pewter moulds unless you areabsolutelysurethattheyarenotmadewithlead-basedpewter.Mostare.Donotusecopperonesunlessthetinningisingoodcondition.Donotuseoldglassorceramicmouldsastheymaysplitwiththeexpansionduringfreezingorduringunmoulding.Donotmistakechocolatemouldsforice-creammoulds.Formoreinformationseepages258to259.

BottlebrushNecessaryforthescrupulouscleaningoffunnelsandthecentralcolumnsofdashersinmanyelectricice-creammachines.

BowlsWerecommendheatproofglassbowlsandaminimumof:

1.Two30cm/12inchheatproofglassbowls,formakingparfaits.2.Onemedium-sizedheatproofbowl,formakingabasiccustard.3.Onesmallbowl,forseparatedeggs.Coneform(wood)Thisenablesanumberofconestobemademoreeasilyandlessensthechanceofyourfingersgettingburned.Electriccone/pizellemakersoften supplyawoodencone formwith themachine.Thesearerathertooslimtoensureaclosureatthetipofthecone,andtheconesrathertoosmalltogiveasatisfactoryportion.

Our slightly larger cone form, developed specially by Randal Marr, morereadilyformsa leak-proofconeandtakesasensibleportionofhome-madeicecream(seeUsefulAddressespage324).

Conemaker(Electric)Seepizelle.

CoolbagsandfreezerboxesOnceyoudiscovertheflavoursofhome-madeicecreams the natural reaction is to want to share them and that involvestransportingicecream.Thishastobedoneinacoolbagorbox.

ThemosteffectivebagwehavecomeacrossismadefromFlectalon®andisinsulated with the same material. Flectalon is an ultra-lightweight metallisedcoatingonafabricthatreflectstheheatandmaintainsthecold.

Useinconjunctionwithfreezerpacks.

CupmeasuresPleasenote that throughout thisbookwealwaysuseAmericancupmeasuresbasedonthe‘full’cupmeasurethatisequalto250mlor8floz.(Measuring cups vary in capacity depending onwhether themanufacturer hasroundedtheconversionof8flozupordown.)

A set of measuring cups can consist of up to 6 different-sized cups. Inadditiontothe1cupsizewehaveused½cup/125ml,⅓cup/80ml,¼cup/60ml.Wepreferstainlesssteelones,butcheckthatthehandlesarefirmlyattached.

Tomeasureliquidsstandthecuponalevelsurfacetofill to thebrim.Withsolids (e.g. sugar), dip the cupmeasure in, and sweep off the excesswith thebackofaknife.

Thebestwehave foundare fromCuisipro,available inbothUSAandUK.Theymakearangeofsizesincludinga2cuponethatisveryuseful.Theirshapeisovalwithahandle,soyoucandipitintothemouthofcontainerstomeasuredrygoodsespeciallyandsugar.(SeeUsefulAddressespage324.)DippersSeeScoops.

DishersSeeScoops.

DoublesaucepansAdoublesaucepanissomethingofaluxury,butifyouareaninexperiencedcookandintendmakingicesinsomequantity,werecommendyoubuyagoodqualitydoublesaucepanpreferablyinstainlesssteel.Donotbuyaluminiumasthisdiscoloursegg-basedsauces.

NOTE: The top pan should never come into contact with the water in thebase.

Intheabsenceofadoublesaucepan,selectasaucepanthatwillcomfortablycontain two-thirds of a heatproof bowl; the base of the bowl shouldnot comeintocontactwiththewater.SeealsoSaucepans.EprouvetteSeeSaccharometer.

Foodprocessor/liquidiser/blenderYou probably already have a good processor.But, if you haven’t, inmostcasesasieveandspoonwilldo.

FreezerboxesAlthoughhardlyathingofbeautytheyareeffective,moresothanacoolbag.Especiallyifyoupackthebaseandtopwithfreezerpacksandputafoldednewspaperdirectlyontopbeforethelidisputon.

The cheapest boxes have an air space between the inner and outer skins.Thesearenotnearlyaseffectiveastheoneswherethecavityisfilledwitheitherfoamorexpandedpolystyreneorfibreglass.

Note:Newspaperisaveryefficientinsulatorforfrozengoods.FreezerfilmPlasticfilmsoldinindividualsheetsoronrollsthatisusedtoseparatefooditemswhentheyarefrozenandtokeepairoffthesurfaceoffrozenicetostoptheformationoficecrystalsonthesurfaceoftheiceexposedtoair.(SeeUsefulAddressespage324.)

FreezersforthecarArangeofsmall freezersareavailable thatcanbeoperatedbothathomefromthe

mainselectricity,or in thecarwhere theycanbe runoff thecarbatteryvia thecigar lighteroraspecialplug.Thesevaryfromabout2litres(½gallonUS)toabout20litres(5¼gallonsUS).Theseareinvaluableforsmalloutsidecaterers.

Freezer packs Sealed plastic containers that have a freezing gel/liquid. The pack is pre-frozen in thefreezer.Werecommendvarioussizestoenableyoutopackthemaround,andparticularlyabove,whateveristobetransported,toholdthecontentsatthelowesttemperatureforthelongesttimepossible.

FridgesandfreezersSeepage70.

FunnelIfyouhaveoneofthecanister-insertice-creammachinesthathaveacomparativelysmallaperturein thecover,a large funnel isveryuseful toquicklyandcleanlyfill themachinewitha liquid ice-creammix.(Cutoffpartofthestemifitfoulsthedasherinthemachine.)

Heat-diffusermatWhenmakingcustardsitissafestofalltouseadoublesaucepan.Thenextbestwayistouseanordinarysaucepanoveraheat-diffusermat.Lookfortheperforatedmetalsandwichwithahandle,ratherthanthemetal-gauzetype.

Ice-creammakersThehardestpartofmaking icecreamathomeis togetenoughair into the icecream.Machineshelpconsiderably toachieve this.Theywill alsoproducean icecreamwith less fussandofahigherstandard.Buthavingsaidthat,thereareNOicesinthisbookthatMUSTbemadeinamachine.Theycanallbestillfrozen(i.e.stirredoccasionallybyhandormachine-beatenwithanelectrichandwhiskorusingafoodprocessor)onceortwiceduringfreezing.(SeeStillFreezingpage80).

Therearebasictypesofice-creammaker.Wehaveworkedwithallthetypesofmachines.Herewedescribetheirmaincharacteristicsandourpersonalviewoftheperformanceofeachtype.1.Theold-fashionedbuckettypethatusesiceandsalt.Thewoodenbucketshavenowlargelydisappearedfromthemarket,andhavebeenreplacedbyaplasticorfibreglassbucket.Astainlesssteelorgalvanisedfreezingcanisterwitharemovablelidsitscentrallyinthebucketandastationaryplasticpaddleordasherfitsinsidethecanisterandgentlyscrapestheinsidewallasitrotates.Theliquidicemixispouredintothecanister, the dasher inserted, the lid fitted, and then the canister is put into the bucket. The crankingmechanismislockedinplaceontop,andiceandsaltarepackedroundit.

Inalmostallmachines,thecanisteristhenrotatedbyeitherahand-crankoran electric motor. Hand-cranked models are considerably cheaper than theelectricones.Thehand-crankedversion is themachinefor thepuristwhomayfeel that the ice cream is imbuedwith a superiorqualitybyvirtueof thehardwork.Itmayalsobethechoiceforthosewhonostalgicallyyearnforicecreamliketheythinktheyrememberasachild.Thistypeofmachineiscomparativelycheapandhasthevirtueofproducingquitealargequantity(3½-4½litres/4–5American quarts) of ice cream at fairly low cost. It can be used anywhere, aslongasiceandsalttravelswithit.

The serious disadvantages of this type of machine, whether hand orelectricallyoperated,aretheamountoficeandsaltneededandthetimetosetupand cleanup.Be careful that nobrinegets into the canisterwhendismantlingandremovingthedasherfromthecontaineroffreshlychurnedicecream.Ifitistobeusedwithinanhour,scrapetheicecreamfromthedasherandpacktheicecream down into the canister. Replace the lid. The ice cream can then be

hardened by repacking the canister in the bucketwith additional ice and salt;thenwrapthebucketwithablanket,ortransferthecanistertoafreezerifyourfreezer is large enough.Crushed ice and salt ratios formaking and hardeningicesaregivenonpage81.2.PrefrozencanisterThecanisterhasasurroundinghollowjacket inwhichissealedacoolant, liquidatroom temperatureand solidwhen frozen; theprinciple is the sameas thatof freezerpacks.Thecanisterneedsfreezingovernighttochillsufficiently.Itisthenputinto,orlockedonto,themachineandthedasherinsertedbeforethechilledicemixispouredin.Anelectricmotororhandcrankingthenrotateseitherthedasherorthecompletecanister,dependingonthedesignofthemachine.

Theyaremoderatelypricedandmakeasmoothiceinabouttheshortesttimeandaresuitableforoccasionaluse.

Wehavetriedoutanumberoftheseandfindthemverygood.However,youneed to think ahead as the canister requires up to eight hours in the freezerbeforeyoumakeanice.

Thealternativeistokeepthecanisterpermanentlyinthefreezertoallowforimpromptuice-creammaking,butthisdoesoccupyvaluablefreezerspace.

Alsobearinmindthatthecanisterisonlygoodformakingonebatch,whichcanbeaproblemiftherecipemakestoomuchforthecapacityofthemachine.Forthisreason,westronglyrecommendbuyingtwocanisters,andstoringthempermanentlyinthefreezer–ifyouhavethefreezercapacity.

Theonlyotherdisadvantagewehavefoundisthatthecoolantissoefficientthatoncetheicehaschurnedtoasatisfactoryconsistency,themachineshouldbestoppedandtheicescrapedoutasquicklyaspossibleoritwillfreezehardontothesidesofthecanister,makingitsremovaldifficultandtheoverall textureofthefinishediceuneven.

Enormousfuncanbehadwiththesmallice-makersthatusethispre-chilledcanister principle. Some are designed specifically to be used by children andprocesslittlemorethanasingleportionoficecream.Wehaveevenheardthatsomeenterprisingrestaurantsusethesetinymachinestomakeupsingleportions

toorder.3.Self-contained ice-creammachinewith integral refrigerationunit These have refined ice cream andsorbetmakingdowntotheturnofaswitch.Allthesemachinesnormallyrequireis5-10minutestoallowthe compressor to chill themachine to the operating temperature, the dasher is then inserted and set inmotion,andthentheliquidicemixpouredin.

Thisis theRolls-Royceendofthedomesticice-creammachinemarket,andthisfactisreflectedintheprice.Theyareallinexcessof£250.00($375.00).

Thistypeisfor theveryseriousice-creammaker,asyoucangoonmakingicesalldaylong.Ifyouarebuyingoneforthehome,makesureyouaregoingtogetyourmoney’sworthoutofit;thesemachinesaretoobigandtooexpensivetoconsigntothecupboardunderthesinkafterthefirstflushofenthusiasm.Infact,becausetheycontaintheirownrefrigerationunit,thesemachinesarelargeandthegreatestdisadvantageistheamountofspacetheytakeuponacounterinthe kitchen, or when stored. This also makes them heavy and, for thecompressor’ssake,theyshouldbekeptuprightallthetime,andadjustedsothattheyarelevelwheninuse.

Some have an optional removable bowl; you would be well advised toconsiderthis.Theonlydrawbackisthenecessityofaddingalittlesaltwateroralcohol solution to themachine’s bowl recess before putting in the removablebowl.Thisisnecessarytocreateasealbetweenthemachineandtheremovablebowl.

On the other hand, having a removable bowl makes both the transfer orservingoficeseasierandthecleaningofthemachinemuchsimpler.

Careful cleaning is very important as this type ofmachine can easily startsmellingsour.

Forcleaningweuseawashing-upbrushandastandardsolutionofthetypeusedforsterilisingbabies’bottles.

NOTE:Takeextracareofthelidsastheyarefragile,andcanbetroublesomeandexpensivetoreplace.Donotputeitherlidsorbowlsinthedishwasher.JugsMeasuringjugsareanecessityandsomethingyoualmostcannothavetoomanyofbuttheycantakeupalotofstoragespace.Youneedanassortmentthatincludes:

1.Two×2½litre/80flozjugs,onelidded.2.Two×1¼litre/40floz.3.One×250ml/8floz.

Wepreferunbreakableplasticjugs,thepolypropylenetype.Caution:theyarenotalwaysdishwashersafe.Checkthatthegraduationsareclearlymarkedinthesortofmeasurementsyoubothunderstandandwilluse.

Formakingcustardsinamicrowave(seepage78)thebestshapeisabowl-shape handled jug. Tall narrow lidded jugs are best for fridge storage; bowl-shapedonesaregoodformixing.

KulfimouldsIfyougotothetroubleofmakingkulfiitisnicertousethecorrectmoulds.

Theyareinexpensiveandavailableineitherplasticoraluminium.Weprefertheplasticonesbecausethescrewtopsseemmoreefficient.Theyshouldcomewithastandsotheywillbeuprightduringthefreezingprocess.Kulfimouldsare

available in specialist Indiancookeryequipment shops. (SeeUsefulAddressespage324).

LabelsUsefreezer-prooflabelswithextrastrongadhesivebacking;ordinarylabelssimplypeeloffinthecoldofthefreezer.Alwayslabeleverythingyouputinthefridgeorfreezer,withbothdescriptionanddate,using a freezer pen.Get a special freezer pen towrite on labels and on freezer boxes.With these yourwritingwillneitherdissolvenorrun.

LemonSqueezers/ReamersAbitofapersonalhobbyhorse.Forsomeoftheserecipesyoumighthavetodo a bit of serious lemon/orange squeezing, so buy a goodone.This is large, about 16-17cm/5½ inchdiameter. Make sure the central cone has well-defined, raised ribs, almost sharp, and the surroundingchannelforjuiceisgenerous.Thistypeofjuicerisusuallyglassandcheap.TheyaboundintheUSAbutyouhavetosearchthemoutintheEUandtheUK.Theyaresometimesreferredtoasgrapefruitsqueezers.

Liquidiser/blenderSeeFoodprocessor/blender.

Lolly/suckermouldsTherearemany typesavailable, somearestartlingly impractical touse.Searchoutonesthatareavailableinatrayof6or8andareeasytostandinthefreezer.Insome,thelidsactasbothcoverandlollystick.OurfavouriteistheCuisiprorocketwhichhastheadvantageofbeingabletoremoveone lolly at a time from the freezer. The lollies can be released easily from the moulds. (See UsefulAddressespage324.)

MeasuringspoonsAllspoonmeasurementsarebasedon:

1tablespoon=15ml1teaspoon=5ml½teaspoon=2.5ml¼teaspoon=1.25mlAllspoonmeasurementsarelevel.

WefindtheCuisiproonesthebestastheywillsitonthecounterandnottipoverwhentheyarefilled.TheyareavailableintheUKandUSA.(SeeUsefulAddressespage324.)

MicrowaveovensWeareindebtedtoourfriendPeterBarhamwhoisProfessorofPhysicsattheHHWillsPhysicsLaboratoryatBristolUniversitywhocame toour rescueandguidedus through theminefieldofmicrowaveovenscience.

No two microwaves are the same and we have made all the recipes in astandard900 to1000Wmicrowaveoven.Wedonot adviseusingmicrowavesabove1200W.Theyaretoopowerfulfordomesticuse.

Microwavemanufacturers arevery loath togiveaccuratecooking times forthevariouswattagesinmicrowaveovensandallthebooksonmicrowaveovenscarefullysidestepthesubject.Theproblemisthevariabilityoftheperformanceofdifferentmicrowaveovens;sothatifyouheat1litreofwaterinsixdifferentovensatthesamewattageyouwillgetsixdifferenttemperaturereadings.

Experiencehas taughtus that if severalbatchesofcustardare required it issimpler and quicker to cook using a microwave. But given the problem ofaccuracyitisabsolutelynecessarytocheckyourmicrowavefirst.Checking yourMicrowave All microwaves differ and reduce in power as they get older. You need amicrowavewithaturntabletomaketheseices.

If you think that the microwave has ‘hot spots’ or ‘cold spots’ trymicrowavingamicrowaveableIndianpoppadum(availableinsupermarkets) init.Whenplacedcentrallyitshouldbeevenlycookedalloveraftertherequired60-90seconds.Ifitisveryunevenlycookedyourmicrowaveovenmaybefaultyorhavehotorcoldspots.Therereallyisnotalotyoucandoaboutthisexceptgetitservicedandcheckedbythemanufacturer’sagents.Nowtocalibrateyourmicrowaveformakingcustards:-

Thepurposeofthistrialistoensurethatwhenyoumicrowavetheeggsorthecornflour/cornstarchandsugarmixturethecompletemixtureisheatedtoslightlyover75°C/167°F.

1.Getahandledmicrowaveableplasticjugandputinit500ml/2cups/16flozofcoldwaterfromthetap*.

2.Microwaveat900W.

3.Microwavefor2½minutes.4. Remove immediately from the microwave and whisk for 5 seconds

(microwaveswillgoonheatingthewaterforabout5seconds).5.Takethetemperature.Itshouldread65-67°C/50-152°F.6.Immediatelyreturnthejugofwatertothemicrowaveandrepeatstages2,3

and4.7.Thetemperaturewillbeabout89°C/192°F.*If these temperatures are achievedusingwateronly, youareOK. In the interestsof scientific accuracyPeterBarhamsuggestsusingstillbottledwaterfromthefridge,butwethinkthisisabitexcessive.

If thetemperaturesareplusorminus,youmustrepeattheexperimentusingmoreor less timeuntil you can achieve temperatures in the regionof the twocalibrationtemperatures.(65°C/150°F,about89°C/192°F.)

For themicrowave fiendsamongstusPeteralsoaddedan interesting tip. Ifyouputajuginamicrowaveandmicrowaveitforaminute,ormultiplesofaminute, the handle will be at the same position as it started. At half minuteintervalsitwillbeoppositetothepositioninwhichitstarted.MixerForthenon-professionalcookwhoprobablylacksthemuscles,anelectrichandmixerisessentialformakingparfaits.Butaballoonorrotarywhiskwillsubstituteforwhippingcreamoreggwhites.

MouldsSeebombeandkulfi.

Paper–greaseprooforsiliconeTheseareneededtocovericesduringchilling,toreduceevaporation,tostop a skin formingon custardswhile they are cooling and in the absenceof freezer film (see page 48)excludeairfromicesbeingstoredinthefreezer.Ifmakinganyquantityoficecreamhaveasupplyofpaperpiecesreadycuttosizetofittheplasticboxesyouplantouse.

PizellemakerApizelleisaverythin,Italianwafflebiscuitthatcanberolledtomakeanice-creamcone.We bought our machine for making them in Williams-Sonoma in the USA. We have not found theseanywhere in Britain. They are a luxury, but they certainly speed up themaking of professional-lookingconesandthebiscuitusedflatalsoenablesyoutomakeyourownwaferstoaccompanyices.Tryourrecipeforconesonpage278forexcellentresults.

ReamersSeeLemonSqueezers.

Refractometer This gadget is for telling the exact density in degreesBrix ofwater ices and sorbets. ItperformsthesamefunctionasaSaccharometer/hydrometer(seebelow)butismuchmorefun.

Abatteryoperatedoneistheultimateboy’stoy.(SeeUsefulAddressespage324.)Saccharometer/hydrometer There seems to be a lot of confusion between hydrometers andsaccharometers.Asaccharometerisarefinedtypeofhydrometer,whichiscalibratedonascaleespeciallysuitableformeasuringsugarsyrups.

Ifyouwant tostrayoutsidetherecipesinthisbook,orareinterestedinthetechnical side of making ices, we strongly advise you to purchase asaccharometer.Thisgadgetmeasuresthedensityofaliquidwhichindicatestheamountofsugarpresent.Toolittlesugargivesasolidblockofflavourediceandtoomuchmeansitremainspartiallyliquid.Ifitwereonlyamatterofhavingtoknow the quantity of sugar in any amount of water, weighing the sugar andmeasuring thewaterwouldsuffice.However,water icesaremorecomplicatedliquids,madeup,forexample,ofvariouspureedfruits,fruitjuicesandalcoholaswellasthebasicsugarandwater.

Each additional ingredient brings its own sugar and water, and it is theresultingdensityof these ingredients combined that youneed toknow;only asaccharometerwilltellthisandensureyougettheiceyouwant.

Asaccharometer isaglass instrumentabout15cm/6 inches long that lookslikeathickclinicalthermometerwithalargebulbatthebase,whichisweighted.This means that when put into a liquid the calibrated stem floats above thesurfaceoftheliquidtoagreaterorlesserdegree,dependingonthedensity.

The reading is taken at the point where the instrument leaves the liquid,whichshouldbeabout20°C/68°F.

Saccharometers are obtainable in winemaking accessory shops and goodkitchenequipmentshops.

TheyarecalibratedeitherinspecificgravityorBrixscaleoraccordingtotheBauméscale(seepage307).Thelatterisasystemofmeasuringthestrengthofsyrups,inwholenumbersreferredtoase.g.18°Baumé.ThescaleisnamedaftertheFrenchchemist,AntoineBaumé(1728–1804),whoinventedit.AlthoughitisgettingquitedifficulttofindBauméSaccharometersitisworthsearchinghardforoneasitissomucheasiertousetheclearlymarkedwholenumbersthanthesometimes minute and complicated markings of decimals denoting specificgravityordensity.

ItisprobablythesimplicityoftheBaumésystemthatmaintainsitspopularityover specificgravity,density andothermeasuring systems suchasBrix in theUSA.

TheBrixscaleisnamedafterAntoineBrix,aGermanchemist(1798-1890).

Hewas the first person tomeasure the density (the amount of sugar) in plantjuicesbyfloatingahydrometer in them.ThewinemakersofEuropewelcomedthisastheycouldnowassesswhichgrapeswouldprobablymakethebestwines.

With the saccharometer you would do well to buy a density-measuringcylinder.KnownasanéprouvetteinFrance,amuchprettierword,thisisatallcylinder about 19 cm/7½ inches high and 4 cm/1½ inches in diameterwith awide-footedbaseforstabilityandaloophandle.Theyaremadeofmetal,usuallytinnedorinstainlesssteel.Thisgivessufficientdepthtofloatthesaccharometerinasmallamountofmix.Thesearemorereadily found inFrance(seeUsefulAddresses,page324).However,wehaverecentlycomeacrossaslightlylargerclear plastic/styrene measuring cylinder some 25 cm/10 inches high and 4cm/1½inchesindiameterwithnohandle.Thisdoesexactlythesamejobforafractionoftheprice.Thesearetobefoundinshopsspecialisinginhome-madewinesandbeers.Wedonotadvisetheuseofglassonesastheyaretoofragile.SaucepansSinceinthemajorityofrecipesthecookingisconfinedtocustards,wesuggestyoubuyagoodqualityheavyweightnon-stick,medium-sized20cm/8inchpan.(Seealsodoublesaucepans.)

PLEASENOTE:aluminiumpansdiscolouregg-basedsauces.Scales Not essential but always useful. In theUSA a pair of scales is a rarity in the kitchen.We havetherefore avoided the use of weights for the US measurements except where they are likely to beencounteredinthesupermarket.

Themostimportantrequirementofapairofascalesisthatitisaccurate(towithin5g)andremainsso.Weprefer a commercial size of theold-fashionedbalancescaleandhavebothmetricandimperialweights.Thenewdigitalscalesareveryaccurateandsomecanbeswitchedbetweenimperialandmetric.

Scoops/dippers/dishersTherearetwotypes;mechanicalandnon-mechanical.Themechanicaltypereliesonpressingtheice intoahemisphericalspoon.Squeezingandreleasingthedoublehandle thensweepsabaracrossthebowlofthespoonandreleasestheice.

These come in all sorts of shapes and sizes and the better quality ones arenumberedaccordingtothenumberofscoopstobehadfromapintorquartorlitre,dependingontheoriginanddateofmanufacture.

NOTE: Since metrication, scoops made in Britain will be numberedaccordingtohowmanyscoopscanbehadfromalitre.AmericanscoopnumbersarebasedontheAmericanquart(i.e.32floz).

Cheap scoops are a false economy; they either do not operate smoothly orlockinoneposition.Thebestqualityoneswillbeexpensivebuttheywillworksmoothlyandlastalmostforever.

Non-mechanicalscoopsarecheaper;thebestcontainaliquidtostoptheicesticking.Thesescoopsaredrawnacrossthesurfaceoftheicecream,formingthescoopeduplayerintoaball,inthemannerofabuttercurler.Zerol®,madeintheUSAisthebestofthistype.Theyhaveasiliconecoatingtomaketheiceslipouteasily.

A flat stainless-steel paddle type of server can sometimes be found.Surprisingly,webought one locallywhichwas imported fromSicily, and in alocalcafetheSicilianproprietorstillusesexactlythesamepaddletofilltheice-creamcones.Theyarealsousefulforpackingicecreamintocontainers.

SievesYouneed:1.Asetofthreenylonsieves.(Theseareusedtoavoidtaintordiscolorationto

acidmixesorredberryfruits.)2.Asetofthreefinemetalsieves(forstrainingfibresandfragmentsofpipsfrom

purees.)3.Aplastic‘teastrainer’sizedsieveforstraininglemonjuice.4.Afinemeshchinoise,orpointedsieve,whichstrainscustardsneatlyfromthe

tip.5. A large colander, liberally perforated, which allows soft fruits to be rinsed

withtheminimumdamage.Spatulas Some ice-cream machine makers supply a spatula that fits the curve of the machine canisterexactly;useit,asitisquickerandmoreefficientthananythingelse.

A selection of hard and soft, silicone or rubber spatulas is essential. Theslightlybowl-shapedflexibleheatproofplasticspatulasareworthsearchingout.(SeeUsefulAddressespage324.)Spoons(cooking)Toavoidthewrongflavourscreepingintoicesreservearangeofdifferentsizewoodenspoonsandputablobofcolouredpaintonthetipofthehandlestoensurethattheyareusedexclusivelyforsweetmixes.Oryoucanuseheatproofmelamineorsiliconespoonsthatcarrynoflavoursifyoudon’tmindtheirratherunsympathetichardness.Howevermelaminecanbecleanedinadishwasher.

StorageboxesFindalocalsupplierfortheseifyoucan,orbuythembymailorderorontheinternet.Whenpurchasedinpacksoftentheyarequitecheap,whichisgoodbecauseyoucanusealotofthem.Forstoringa standard churnedmix1.2 litre/40 fl oz and600ml/20 fl oz boxes are best.This allows for expansionduringfreezing.Smalleronesarenotmuchuse.

Formakinggranitasastrongpolypropylenecakeorfoodstoragebox25×25×8cm/10×10×3inisideal.WeprefertheRubbermaidonesastheyhavelipsonthecornerstoaidopeningthem.

Keepthemscrupulouslycleananddonotbuythemunlesstheycanbeputinthedishwasher.(SeeUsefulAddressespage324.)

Thermometer As with an oven, it is important to know if your fridge andfreezerareatthecorrecttemperatures.Ifyoudonothavethermometersinthemwewouldadvise thatyouget them; the resultsmightsurpriseyou.Small self-adhesivethermometersareobtainableinmostsupermarketsandfreezerstores.

Wealsorecommendadigital-probethermometer.Thesevaryintemperaturerangebutonethatreadsfrom-49°Cto199°Ccoverseverythingyoucouldwant

inakitchenandisidealforcheckingcustards,freezersandinternaltemperaturesof ices. They cost in the region of £15.00/$22.00 (seeUsefulAddresses page324).

While the above smacks of laboratory conditions in the kitchen,wedo notadvise the use of glass cooking thermometers. These are fragile and oftensurprisinglyinaccurate.

WhisksElectricwhisksorvarying sizesof the flexible classicballoonwhisksaresuitableforbeatingeggwhitesandcream.Wewouldadviseusingaspoontostir custards in a non-stick pan, especially if you are using a thermometer aswell.Ithasbeenknownforacooktovigorouslywhiskwhileheatingacustardto such an extent that the air incorporated actually lowered the temperature togiveafalseimpressionofhowthecustardwascooking.

Formostcooksanelectricwhiskisnecessarywhenmakingparfaitsandanysortofmeringue.

Theperfectwhisk for ice-creammakers isonewithabuilt-in thermometer.Thesearedifficult to findbutwellworth looking for.Ours are fromCuisipro.(SeeUsefulAddressespage324.)Ifyoucannotfindone,youcanholdtheprobefromadigitalthermometerinthesamehandasthewhiskwhenusingitinasaucepanorinamicrowavejug.

ZesterAreallygoodstainlesssteelzesterisveryusefulbutsurprisinglyhardtofind; Wusthof, and Victorinox make particularly good ones (see UsefulAddresses page 324). If unobtainable, use a sharp potato peeler; then cut thestrips very, very finely.However, if you remove some of the bitterwhite pithwiththezest(thecolouredpart),shaveoff thepith,usingasharpknifeangledalmostflatagainstthepeel.

Ingredients

Naturally, while making ices, the few ingredients have come in for closescrutiny.Asaresultofmuchtestingandtasting,wehaverefinedourideasdowntosomespecifics.These,andanyadditionalhintsandinformationthatmightbeofhelp,aregivenbelow.

AlmondExtractWhenbuying,alwayslookforthewordspureornatural,andpreferablyorganic.The list of ingredients should say almond oil or almond oil in alcohol.Avoideverythingelse.Donotuseimitationornatureidenticalalmondessence.Avoidanythinglabelledessence.

Bitteralmonds,bannedintheUKandUSAarereadilyavailableinItalyandFranceinanymarket.Onebitteralmondcantransformarecipe.Ifyoucanfindbitter almondessenceuse it carefully, theminutest amount is sufficient.Dipafineskewerintotheliquidandaddsingledropsfromthepoint.

ChocolateInorder tounderstand fully thequalities of chocolate, it is necessary toknowsomethingofthemanufacturingprocess.Briefly,cocoakernelsarepulverisedtoproduce cocoa mass. This is then refined to produce cocoa butter and cocoapowder,whicharetogetherfrequentlydescribedonchocolatewrappersascocoasolids.

Thecocoabutter retainsabout2%ofcocoapowderand in this state isoff-white and almost flavourless. The cocoa powder retains some 20-22% cocoabutter.

Agourmetwhothinksofcaloriesislikeatartwholooksatherwatch.JAMESBEARD1903-85.

Individual manufacturers re-combine cocoa butter with cocoa powder andsome of the original cocoa mass to produce their own distinctive types ofchocolate.Sincecocoabutterisausefulcommodity,especiallytothecosmeticindustry, somemanufacturerssell thisoffandsubstitutecheapervegetable fats

andoils,suchassoya,palmandcoconut.Therefore it is the percentage of cocoa solids in chocolate that gives it its

chocolatetaste.Ithasprovedsurprisinglydifficulttoproduceagoodchocolate-flavouredice

creamthatisstrongandroundenoughinflavour,withoutanyrawness,andwithagoodconsistencythatisnottoodenseorchewy.Alltestsusingmilkchocolatewhich contain fewer cocoa solids thanplain chocolate,wereunsatisfactory, somilk chocolate has not been used in this book except in Terry’s ChocolateOrangeicecreampage122.

Inordertogetagood,positive,chocolateflavouritisnecessarytouseagoodquality plain chocolate with a high cocoa solids content. (In the USA plainchocolate is frequently referred to as semi-sweet or bitter-sweet chocolate.)However, buying a good quality chocolate is not as straightforward as itmayseembecausewhereasgoodqualityisreflectedintheprice,pricealonedoesnotguaranteethequality.Beforebuyingadarkplainchocolatelookonthebackofthepacketattheingredientsandtheirpercentages.Ifthisinformationisabsent,donot buy the chocolate–manufacturers should feel sufficiently confident oftheirproducttoprintthecontentsforalltosee.Itisinterestingtonotethatsincethepublicationofourfirstbook,chocolatemanufacturershaverespondedtothepublic’sawarenessoftheimportanceofcocoasolids,andthisisnowprintedinlargenumbersonthefrontofpackets.Donotbuychocolateifitliststhecocoasolids at under 60%, unless the recipe states semi-sweet chocolate, which isapprox50%cocoasolids.

WenormallyuseLindtbittersweetchocolate(70%upto99%cocoasolids)whichisavailableintheEU,UKandUSA,butyoumayhavetosearchforthehighestcocoasolidscontentchocolateinthisrange.WehavealsofoundGreenand Black and Bendicks very good. For the USA Ghirardelli and ScharffenBerger are good chocolates. For chefs, Callebaut remains themainstay. Somesupermarkets have excellent ‘own brands’ which contain 60% or more cocoasolids.

WhiteChocolateChocolatiersdonotconsiderwhitechocolatetoberealchocolate,sincetheonlypart of the cocoa bean the product contains is cocoa butter. The rest of thechocolateismadeupofmilksolids,sugarandflavouring.Somebrandsdonotevencontaincocoabutter;againthisisreplacedwithvegetablefatandoilssuchassoya,palmandcoconutoil.Toavoidlow-qualitychocolatelookonthepackettocheckthatthecontentscontainatleast25%cocoabutter.Lessthanthis,the

chocolatemaynotmelt at all,or insufficiently tobe incorporated into the ice-creammix.

IntheUSAwhitechocolatecannotlegallybesoldaschocolate.Ifitcontainsno cocoabutter, it is sold as confectioner’s or summer coating.So, never buywhitechocolateunlessitgivesthepercentageofcocoabutteronthepackage.

CocoaWhenthecocoabutterhasbeenremovedfromthepulverisedcocoabeankernel(cocoamass), the result is cocoa.Although a dry powder, the best cocoa stillretains some20-22%cocoabutter. In this rawstate it is agrey-ish-redcolour,acidic,andwithouttheadditionofsugarispracticallyinedible.

Mostcocoaforthedomesticmarketisthen‘alkalised’or‘Dutchprocessed’.Thistreatment,whichremovestheacidity,wasinventedbyCoenraadJohannesVanHoutenin1828.Tothisday,VanHoutenremainsarguablythebestqualitycocoaandmostwidelyavailableinBritain,EuropeandtheUSA.

Havingsaidallthis,ifyoulookonacontainertoseeifitisalkalisedornon-alkalised,inmostcasesthisinformationisnotgiven.Restassured,inBritainallcocoa is alkalised.US readers should be alert to the fact that somemainbrandsavailableintheUnitedStatesarenon-alkalised.

Wehaveachievedundeniablybetterresultsfromalkalisedcocoapowderandnowuseitexclusivelyinices.

Cornflour/CornstarchCornflour(UK)Cornstarch(USA).Thisisastarchpreparedfrommaize.Maizeissoftenedinweakacidandgroundtoseparatethebran,thenwashedtoremovethenon-starchy substances.Because it has avery fine texture and containsnogluten, it has less tendency to form lumps. In addition it is almost tastelessprovideditissufficientlycooked.

The process for making cornflour was invented in 1842 by ThomasKingsford, a British-born naturalised American who eventually merged hiscompanywiththeArgoManufacturingCompanyofNebraskaandotherstoformtheUnitedStarchCompany.Argostillmanufacturescornstarchtoday.

CreamTokeep the recipes simple and successful for thewidest possible public,withfew exceptions, the cream used throughout the book is of the type calledwhipping cream in Britain (legal minimum fat content 35%). This cream isknown as heavy cream in the USA (legal minimum fat content 36%). This

choice of creamwasmade at the outset in writing the book because it givessufficientfatcontentformosttypesoficecreamwhetherstillfrozenorchurned.It is readilyavailable,or ifnot,other creamscouldeasilybeadapteddown tothisfatcontentbytheadditionofmilk.Furthermore,stickingtojustonetypeofcreamkeepsshoppingsimpleandthefridgeuncluttered.

Lovers of super-rich ice cream should not be tempted to use double creamwilly-nillyintheassumptionthatitwillmaketheicecream‘better’.Itdoesnot.Acreamofhigherfatcontent,insomerecipes,islikelytoruntobutterinanice-cream maker, or at best, produce an ice cream with a very crumbly texture.Weightforweightusingacreamoflowerfatcontent(i.e.lessthan35%)willofcourse give a less rich ice cream, but before all the dieters opt for this theyshouldknowthatitwillalsogivearatherhard,icy-texturedicecream.

Inotherwords,forthebestresultsusewhippingcream(orheavycreamintheUSA)orbepreparedtoadjustthevolumesofthecreamsavailabletoyou,usingtheformulae(seepage310).

Havingsaidall that, itdoesnotmake lifeanyeasier todiscover that in theUKwhippingcreamisnotasreadilyavailableasdoublecream(legalminimumfat content 48%). However, by diluting double creamwith whole milk (legalminimum fat content 3.6%) double cream can be reduced to that ofwhippingcream.

Theformulais:3partsdoublecreamto1partwholemilk=35%fatcontentcream=UK

Whippingcream/USAHeavycream.PLEASENOTE:Inpractice,creamsarealmostalwaysafewpercentagepointsabovetheminimumlegalfatcontentsgivenabove.

Thoseinterestedinthephysicsandchemistryoficecreamwillseethatthisimportantfactistakenintoaccountinourcalculations.

InourpreviousbookswehaveadvisedagainstusingUHTmilkandcream,howeverthemanufacturingtechnologyhasimprovedsomuchweareunabletotellthedifferenceinflavourbetweenmostUHTwhipping/heavycreamsandtheNonUHTwhipping/heavycreams.Caution:Wedonotrecommendusingthetypeofcreamwhichislabelled‘extrathick’.Thesemaycontainadditivesthatwillupsetthebalanceofanice.

CrèmeFraîcheAmaturedthickcreamtreatedwithaculturethatgivesitalightaciditywithoutsourness.Minimumfatcontentis35%.Lowfatcrèmefraîcheisnowavailableandisunsuitableforicecream.ThisisstandardcreaminFrance.

Eggs

Egg sizes have changed in the EU since our previous book.Quietly the sizeshavebeenadjusteddown.

Inanefforttomakesizingcrystalclear,wehaveshownthestandardsfortheUKandUSAinthechartsbelow.Thisissothatanyoneoutsidetheseareascanassessandbuythecorrectsizeofeggs.

In the UK we now use large size (average weight 68g) eggs. ThesecorrespondwithExtraLargeorVeryLargesizeeggs(averageweight67.5g)intheUSA.

Ifyouareleftwithanumberofeggwhitesinabowlitisusefultoknowthatone eggwhite = approximately 35ml. This can bemore accuratelymeasuredusingasmallmedicinemeasureavailablefromchemists,usuallyfree.Tuilesormeringues, to accompany ice creams, are a goodwayof usingup surplus eggwhites.Seepage279and283to284.

Inthisbook,allicesbasedoncustards,containingeggs,arecooked.Thereisnocaseforadvocatingtheuseoforganiceggseitherfromthepointofviewofflavourorfoodsafety.

Theuseofuncookedeggsdoesnotoccurinthisbook.Howeverforthosepeoplewhowish tocarryon thepracticeofaddingwhiskedeggwhites tolightenthemix,wewouldsuggesttheyusepasteurisedeggwhites,powderedor liquid.This isbecause itcanbedifficult toguarantee thesafetyofraweggs.UKEGGSIZESVerylarge 73gandoverlarge 63g–73gmedium 53g–63gsmall 53gandunder

GelatineFromtheturnofthecenturyuptotheFirstWorldWargelatinewasextensively

usedasastabiliserincommercialicecream.Thentechnologyprovidedcheaperand more efficient substitutes. In this book we have largely avoided usinggelatine becausewe find it gives a curious boiled-milk flavour to ice creams,acceptableuptoapointinvanillaicecreamsbutcloyinganddeadeningin,forexample,afruit-flavouredice.

GlucoseDextrosehasapproximately80%ofthesweeteningpowerofsucrose(commonsugar).Glucosesyrupsaremadebypartialhydrolysisofstarchesandcontainamixtureof sugars.Thesearecommonlydescribedby theirdextroseequivalent(DE),expressingthereducingpowerofthemixtureasa%ofthatofthesameweightofdextrose.Acommonglucosesyrup is the42DE,withabouthalf thesweeteningpowerofsucrose.HigherDEsyrupsaresweeterbutgivelessbodyto the frozen dessert (and vice versa).These syrups are viscous and the spraydriedpowderformsareeasiertohandle,thoughmoreexpensive.

Glucose is frequently used in the ice-cream industry and in many chefs’recipesforoneormoreofthefollowingreasons:-1.Itreducesthefreezingpointofthemixandsomakesscoopingeasier.2.Ithasslightlylessthanhalfthesweeteningpowerofsucrose(normalsugar)

sotwicethequantityisrequiredandthisadditionalvolumehelpstobulkupthemixforlittlecost.

3.Boughtinbulkglucoseischeaperthansucrose(normalsugar)andsolowersthecostoftheicetothemanufacturer.

4.Itgivestheicesomethingofasheen/glossonthesurface.5. IfyouareusingaPac-o-Jet (seepage320) it requiresusingdextrose in the

mixbecauseofthecuttingprocess.Howeveritdoesdulltheflavouroftheicesandforusisaseriousdisadvantageinusingglucose.

NOTE:Ifusingglucose,icescannotbedescribedas‘allnatural’asaprocessisrequiredtoturncorn/maizeintosweetener.

We only suggest using glucose/dextrose in Soft Scoop Vanilla Ice cream(page237)inordertomaketheicesoftscoop.

GoldenSyrupGolden syrup is 24% glucose, 25% fructose and 33% sucrose. Its mainrecommendationisitsdelightfulcaramelisedlightbrownsugarflavour.Seepage158GoldenSyrupicecream.

HoneyWherehoneyisfeaturedinarecipewehaverecommendedaparticulartype.Ifitisusedmerelyasasweetenerwerecommendusingamildhoneysuchasacacia.Whenmeasuringhoneyheat themeasuring spoon in boilingwater and ensurethatyouremovetheexcesshoneyfrombeneaththespoonormeasure,andswipeaknifeacrossthetopinordertogetanaccuratemeasure.

Liquers,FortifiedWines&StickiesWehavesomethingofaholidaysport,keepinganeyeopenforflavouredspiritswhenabroad.Lookforonesunavailable, scarce,betterqualityorcheaper thanwouldbeavailableathome.Wearesuresomeofthoselistedbelowyouwillnothavetried.Theyareguaranteedeventoimprovecommercialicecream.

SyrupsCassis,CrèmedemûrLiqueurs Eau-de-vie – Plum (pruneau, prune), Pear (poire), Framboise(raspberry)SherryPedroXiminez(Spectacularwithicecream),OlorosoPortMadeiraMarsalaTokayWhitedessertwinesVin santo,Muscat deBaume-de-Venise,Orangemuscat,SauternesReddessertwinesBarolochinato,BlackmuscatForareallyspecialoccasionChateaud’Yquem

MilkAllrecipesinthisbookusefullcreammilk(USAwholemilk)withaminimumlegalfatcontent(Britain4%,USA3.9%).HoweveriffreshmilkisunavailableuseUHTorLongLifemilk.Wesuggestyouusethelowfatvarietywhichhastheleastflavour.

MilkPowderOccasionallyused tobulkmilk solids (fat andMSNFq.v.) orwhenapositivemilk flavour is required. We use Nido® made by Nestlé which is availableworldwide.

Sugar

Wealwaysrecommendusingunrefinedsugarasithasasuperiorflavour.Thisisparticularlynoticeableinsorbetsandgranitasmadewithalcohol.Youwillgetaslightdarkeningof theice,but ifyoumaketwosamplesofgrappagranitaonewithunrefinedsugarandonewithrefinedsugar, theunrefinedsugargranita isnoticeablybettertasting.OurfavouriteisBillington’ssugarfromMauritius.

Mostoftherecipesusesugarintheformofsucrosewhichisobtainedfromeithersugarcaneorsugarbeet.Allwhitesugarisrefinedto99.9%sucroseandin this form there is absolutely no difference between beet and cane. Sincegranulated sugar with its medium-sized crystals is the most common andinexpensive sugar, we have used it in the majority of recipes, where heatingensures the dissolving of the crystals anyway. Where the ingredients are notheated,but simply stirred together and frozen, feel free touse caster/ultra-finesugar – the smaller crystals of sugar dissolving more readily without theapplicationofheat.NOTE:All 99% refined sucrose,weight forweight, has the same sweeteningpowerwhatever the degree of granulation. Because of this you can substitutegranulated for caster sugar in Britain. However, do not substituteicing/confectioner’s sugar as there is a small proportion of anti-caking agentaddedwhichcanbetastedinthecream.

VanillaSugarThisisnormallymadebyburyingthreeorfourvanillabeanpodsinacontainerof sugar.Within aweek the sugar has taken up the flavour and aroma of thebeansandisreadytouse.Thisprovidesaverysubtlebackgroundflavourinicecreams.

Oursisamoreskinflintapproach.Giventhehighpriceofvanillabeansandnotwishingtouse themmorethanoncefor infusingcustard,werinseanddrytheseusedbeansandputthemintothesugarandgoondoingthisuntiltherearealmostmorebeansthansugar.Wethenthrowthemoutandstarttheprocessalloveragain.

Rose-PetalSugarRose-petal sugar is a delightful thing to have around. Use petals from highlyscentedroses.Spreadoutthepetalsandallowthemhalfadaytodry,andthenfillacontainerwithalternatelayersofsugarandpetals,coverwithatight-fittinglidandleaveasidefortwoweeksorso.Thesugarwillneedsievingbeforeuse.Theratioofpetalstosugarisnotcritical;asaroughguideuse1ozpetalsto225g(1½cups)sugar.

SugarSyrupSeepage70.

VanillaAsthetomatoistoItaliancookerysovanillaistoices.Itisasuperbflavourinitsownright,aswellashavingthecapacitytoactasapassivebackgroundforotherflavours,sometimesaccentuatingevenratherreticentones.

Thebestvanillaflavourtobehadisindisputablyfromthebean.Thepodsaregreen/yellowwhenpickedfromtheclimbingorchidVanillaplanifolia.Theyaresome12.5–25cm/5–10 inches long,about2.5cm/1 inch incircumferenceandhavenovanillaflavourorfragrance.Itisonlythelaboriousandtime-consumingprocessofcontinuallysweatinganddryingthatdevelopsthevanillin,whichincombination with other substances (gums, resins and oils) gives vanilla itstypicalwonderfullyseductive,sweetandspicysmell.Beanscarryingadustingofwhitevanillincrystalsareconsideredtobeofhighquality,butdespitesomefifty years of combined cooking experience we have only once come acrossthem.We are happywhenwe find highly aromatic, dark, fat, moist, lusciousbeansandcheerfullypaythehighprice.

Astowhatarethebestbeans,expertssayMexicanonesareexcellent.HighqualityMadagascanbeansarewidelyavailable,butsadlyonlyAmericansseemtohaveaccesstothehighlyperfumed,aromaticTahitianbeans.

In theabsenceof thebean,vanillaextract is thenextbest thing,butapoorsecondinouropinion.Thebestqualityismadebysoakingbeansinanalcohol-water solution to extract the flavour. In the United States avoid ‘imitationvanilla’andbuyonlytheproductthatislabelled‘vanillaextract’whichensuresitisderivedfromvanillabeans.InBritainthestandardofvanillaextractisnotrequiredtobeashighasthatsoldintheUSAandwordingonthelabelscanbeconfusing.Youarebestadvisedtolookfortheword‘natural’inthewordingonthelabel.HighqualityBourbonbeansareavailableinqualityshops,trytobuyonesinglassorplastictubestostopthemdryingout.

NaturalvanillaextractfromtheUSA(madebyNielsen-Massey)isavailableinqualityshopsandbymailorder(seeUsefulAddressespage324).

WaterThismayseemanextraordinaryentryinalistofingredients,butwithoutwateryoucouldnothaveicesandunhappilyit isasignofthetimesthatwehavetoconsider the tasteandqualityofwater. Ifyoudon’tdrink thewater fromyourtap,don’tmakeiceswithit.Or,ifyouliveinanareawhereyouknowthatthe

waterishighlychlorinated,orsuspect it ishighinphosphates,wesuggest thatyouusebottledwater.Grom,theTorinoice-creamandsorbetmaker,usebottledwaterexclusivelyfortheirsorbets.

YoghurtPeoplewhoarecalorie-consciousandwhohopetocutdownoncaloriesmayberatherdisappointedtofindthatalltheyoghurticescontainfullfatcreamyGreekyoghurt,about10%fatcontent.Thisenablestheicecreamtobefrozenorstoredbeforeeating.Youcanuselow-fataslongasyoueatitassoonasithasreachedasuitableice-creamconsistency,beitchurnedorstillfrozen.Otherwiseduetothe low milk-solid and fat content, and therefore high water content, it willfreeze hard and have a rough icy consistency and lack roundness of flavour.Commercial yoghurt ices are bristling with stabilisers and emulsifiers toovercomethisproblem.

IntheUSAGreekyoghurtsarefrequentlyreferredtoasRussianyoghurts.

WhatisGoodIceCream?

For over the last hundred years the ice-cream industry has been trying tomanufacture‘home-made’icecreambuthaslargelyfailed.

Sowhatarethequalitiesyoulookforinanicecream?Thisisthequestionwearemostcommonlyaskedandyetbooksonices,otherthanthosewrittenfortheindustry, ignore this most important feature, which is how to assess quality.Since our book is concerned with the production of quality ice cream, thissectiondescribestheguidelinesthatweusedtojudgewhetherarecipewasgoodenough to be included.More importantly this is particularly addressed to thehaplessBritishwhowithinlivingmemoryhavenoheritageofqualityicecreamand little or no knowledge of how good ice cream should taste. Part of theexplanationmustbe thatalmostawholegenerationwasdeprivedof icecreamduring and for some years after the Second World War as food rationing inEnglanddidnotenduntil1954.WinstonChurchilltoLordWoolton.22September1942SUBJECTProhibitionoftheManufactureandSaleofIceCream

Withoutdefinite informationas to the saving in transportandmanpower, I cannot judgewhether thedestructionofthisamenitywasworthwhile.

Isuppose the largenumbersofAmerican troops in thiscountrywillhavetheirownarrangementsmadefor them.Theyaregreataddictsof icecream,whichissaidtobearivaltoalcoholicdrinks.

The step should not have been taken without the Cabinet having anopportunitytoexpressanopinion.This,coupledwiththeBritishtoleranceofpoor-qualityfood,hasenabledmanufacturerstotakeadvantageofthesituationandsellusicecreamwhich,asJaneGrigsonsaid,is‘largelyairandfakery’.

It is a curious fact that childhoodmemories of ice cream,whether recalledaccuratelyornot,remainthebasisforadultjudgementsontaste.ObviouslytheBritishstartoffatadisadvantagecomparedwithothernations.

But what also has to be taken into account at this stage are the differingnational characteristics of ice cream. For example, the Americans generallyprefer icecream that is sweeter, richerandsofter than the Italians,whowould

lookforamilkier,denseandcolderice,whereastheFrenchwouldwantarich,verysmoothicecreamwithmoresophisticatedflavour.

However,theriseofthemulti-nationalice-creamcompaniesisblurringthesedistinctions. For example, in Italy, a wide range of restaurants offer a dessertmenu comprising an identical range of ice creams, all from identical freezerssuppliedbythecompanywhomakethedesserts.Wehopethismonotonousdietwillbegintopall,andinordertowinbackjadeddinersrestaurateurswillhavetheir chefs produce their own ices again. Some of the lost characteristics andqualitiesofdifferingflavoursandtextureswillthankfullyberestored.

The problems of tasting are compounded by the fact that the image of icecreampromotedinmagazines,booksandadvertisementsisofrock-hard,frozenscoopsof icenever shownmelting,which is the ideal state for tasting.Frozenhard,eventhebesticesarenearlyinedibleandquiteflavourlessasthetastebudsareanaesthetisedatthislowtemperature.

Icecreamshouldideallybeeatenbetween-15to-8°C/4to18°F.Theidealtemperature according toArbuckle (IceCream AVI,Westport, Conn, 1986) is-13°C/8°F.

Sorbetsandsherbetsshouldbeeatenbelow-13°C/8°F.Granitas,whenthey

areready,areeatenstraightfromthefreezer.So,giventhe iceservedat thecorrect temperature,howdowejudgeanice

cream?Therearefivecriteria.

AppearanceThe colour of the ice cream should be appropriate to the flavour. Anywholefruit, nuts etc, that have been added to the ice cream should be evenlydistributed.There shouldbeno ice crystals on the surface andno evidenceofshrinkagefromthesidesofthecontainer.

BodyWeconsiderthebodyoftheicecreamtobeeverythingyoucandetectwiththeeye before tasting. As it is scooped from the container to a plate, note theresistanceoftheicecream.Ifitistoofirmtoscoopitwillbeuncomfortabletoeatandtoocoldtotaste.Thebodyoftheicecreamshouldnotbewaxy,gummy,crumbly,soggyorfluffy.

TextureTasteasample;theinitialtextureshouldbesmooth.Pushitwiththetongueontotheroofofthemouth.Ifitisroughbutrapidlyclearsastheicecreammeltsinthemouththeicecrystalsaretoolarge.Ifhoweverasandyroughnesspersistsitisduetolactosecrystallisation,causedbytoomuchM.S.N.F,(seepage296).

FlavourIs the flavour appropriate to the mix? Is it too elusive or too overpowering?Flavourshouldbeidentifiableforwhatitis,andtheicecreamshouldnotbesorichthatitswampstheflavour,northeflavoursorichthatyoucannoteatmorethanoneortwospoonsful.

Sweetness is the element which most commonly offends; it is highlysubjective,andinourexperienceitistheflavourthatpeoplecommentonfirst.Sincesugarisoneofthecheapestingredientsincommercialicecream,itistheone that is most likely to be overdone. Beware over-sweetness killing thefreshnessofflavour,especiallyinfruit-basedicecreams.

The flavour should not stop when the ice is swallowed. Does it leave apleasant aftertaste? There should be neither cooked-milk flavour, nor anymetallicorrancidflavoursdetectableintheicecream.

Melt

Theicecreamshouldmelttoacreamyliquid.Itshouldnotremainlikeshavingfoam,orseparate,orcurdle.

TheBasics

Thereareanumberofbasicrecipesandtechniquesinmakingicesandtoavoidneedless repetition thesearegiven indetailbelow.However,before starting tomakeanyices,pleasereadouradviceonhygieneand theproperhandlingandstorageofices,aswellastheinstructionsconcerningfridgesandfreezers;thesebasicsareimportant.

HygieneFirstly, all equipment used in themaking of ices should be kept scrupulouslyclean. Ideally, those items that can should be put through a dishwashingmachine.Otherwise, they shouldbewashed inhot soapywater, rinsed inveryhotwaterandlefttodryintheair,ratherthandriedwithacloth.

Wecarryoutthiswashingprocessbeforeandaftereachsession.So,ineffect,allitemsaredoublyclean.

Always refer to themanufacturer’s instructions concerning the cleaning ofmachine parts. After each ice-making session we recommend the machinesthemselvesarewipedoverwithacleanclothwrungout insterilisingsolution;thesortandstrengththatisusedforsterilisingbabies’bottles.

Ices, ifbadlyhandled,canprovidean idealbreedingground forall sortsofundesirable organisms, so it is important to bear in mind a few fundamentalprinciples.

Mostfood-bornebacteriacanbedestroyedbyheat.Bearinmindthatabove63°C/145°Ftheystarttodie.

Theyarerenderedinactiveandunabletomultiplyatsuchlowtemperatures.They multiply most rapidly at temperatures around human blood heat. Attemperaturesslightlyaboveorbelowtheycanstillmultiply,butdosoataslowerrate.

At temperatures below 10°C/50°F they are not killed but the rate ofmultiplicationslowsconsiderablyasthetemperaturedropsfromthispoint.

For the ice-cream maker the main aim and object is to move the mixturethroughthiscriticaltemperaturerangearoundbloodheat,asquicklyaspossible,therebyminimisingthepotentialforbacterialgrowth.Thereforewerecommendthatassoonasacustardhasreached85°C/185°Fandisthickened,itshouldbe

cooled to below10°C/50°F as quickly as possible.To do this, plunge the pancontaining the custard into a bowl of cold water. Cover and leave, stirringoccasionally,untilthecustardiscoolenoughtoputintothefridge.

NOTE:Itmaybenecessarytochangethewaterinthebowlifitbecomestepid.Thecustardcannowbetransferredtoajug,coveredandrefrigerated.Inthis

stateitisperfectlysafetostoreovernightinthefridgeaslongasitiskeptwellawayfromanystronglysmellingoruncookedorrawfoods.

In uncooked ices such ingredients as cream andmilk should be pre-chilledbeforemixingtogether,andthenchurnedandfrozenimmediately.

The only other area that should give rise to concern iswhen amade ice istakenfromthefreezerandthawedsufficientlytoeat,andtheremainderthenre-frozen.Fromthehealthaspect, it isunwisetocarryout thisprocessmorethantwice.Itwillalsointerferewiththeconsistencyoftheice.Donotattempttore-freezeanyicethathasfullythawedtoaliquidstate.

FridgesandfreezersMost people do not know the running temperature of either their fridge orfreezer;weadvisethepurchaseofthermometers(seeEquipmentpage55)sothatyoucangettoknowthevariationsoftemperature,accordingtouseandseason.Thiscanbequiteaneye-opener.

Therecipesinthisbookarebasedontherunningtemperatureofafridgeat4°C/39°Fandfreezerat-18°C/0°F.

Remember: An overloaded or iced-up fridge or freezer will not functionproperly.Theyalsoneedtobeleveltooperateefficiently.

Alwayscheckbeforeyoustart that there issufficientspacein thefreezer toaccommodate the newly made ice. If you are using a canister-type machine,allowenoughtimefortheinserttobecompletelyfrozen.

Ifyouhaveafast-freezebuttonorswitchonyourfreezer,useit;switchingitonaheadoftime, ifnecessary.Theuseof thisfacilityisparticularlybeneficialwhen still freezing to ensure the fast growth of small ice crystals to give asmooth-texturedice.

BasicRecipesWaterIcesAll the recipes forwater ices (i.e. sorbets and granitas), aswell as the hybridsherbetsandtheparfaits,arebasedonasugarsyrup.Thissugarsyrupisalways

thesamethroughoutthebook.Itisthelynchpinofthebookanditcouldnotbeeasiertomake.

SugarSyrupSugarsyrupisacombinationofsugarandwater,alsoreferredtobycooksandchefsassimpleorstocksyrup.

Unfortunately this ismadebydifferentpeople invaryingstrengthsand it isoften impossible to know what the recipe writer intended – which is absurdwhenthesuccessofanicedependsonit.

Wehaveusedastandardsugarsyrupinsteadofdifferentquantitiesofsugarandwater in each recipebecause it isquicker andeasier tousea syrup ratherthanmeasuringandmixingsmallquantitiesofsugarandwatereachtime.Moreimportantly,astandardsyrupestablishesabasisfromwhichanyfruit,vegetableor herb can be formulated into a successful recipe for sorbets, granitas andspooms.ForafullexplanationseeSciencechapterpage305.Oursugarsyrupis:1kiloofsugarto1litreofwateror5cupssugarto4cupswateror2lb3ozsugarto32flozwaterThismakes1600ml/6⅔cups/54flozofsyrupYouneedalarge2litre/8cup/4pintmeasuringjug.

Pour1litre/4cups/2pintsofboilingwaterintothejugandstirinthesugar.Stir until the sugar has dissolved, which takes less than half a minute. Cool,cover,thenrefrigerate.Thatisallyouneedtodo.

Weprefertoputavanillabeaninthemeasuringjug,thenpourintheboilingwater,andthenaddthesugar.Thevanillabeanisleftinthesyrupforaslongasthesyrupremainsinthefridge.

The chart onpages306 to 307gives themeasurements formaking smallerquantitiesofthissyrup,ifnecessary.

Thereareelaborateinstructionsinsomebooksonmakingsyrups,boilingandskimming them for anything up to 10minutes.This is simply not necessaryunlessyouhavesuspectwater.Whydothesemythsgoonbeingperpetuatedbycooksandchefswhoshouldknowbetter?

Sugarsyrupinsmallquantities(seepages306to307)canbemadewithcoldwatertakenstraightfromthetap.Ifyoucanbebotheredtostandthereandstirituntil the sugar has dissolved this has the advantage that once the sugar hasdissolved,thesyrupisimmediatelyreadyforuse.

Boilingsimplyevaporatessomeofthewaterandincreasesthedensityofthesyruptoagreaterorlesserdegree,dependingonthediameterofthesaucepan.

Onlythosepeoplelivingat6,000feetoroverwillhaveanytroublewithourtechnique.Atthisaltitudeitisnecessarytoheatthesugarandwaterinordertogetthesugartodissolve.

Thesyrupwillkeepfor2-3daysatkitchentemperatureoratleast2weeksina refrigerator. It will probably keep much longer as the only cause ofdeteriorationisthegrowthofyeastsporespickedupfromtheair.Yeastgrowthswillmakethesyrupcloudy,sodonotusethesyrupifit isanythingotherthanclear.

Theconcentrationof this sugar syrup ismeasuredby thedensity. Itwillbe28°on theBauméscaleor1.24onadecimal scaleor52onaBrix scale (seepage307).

SorbetsSorbets are made using a proportion of the above basic sugar syrup plusflavouring.Theratioofsugarsyrupvariesaccordingtotheamountofliquidthatis contained in the flavouring in the recipe of your choice.Having chilled themixyouwillthenneedtofreezeit.(SeeFreezingpage80.)

GranitasGranitashaveamethodoffreezingalloftheirown.

Foraclassicgranitatherearenoshortcuts.The instructionsonfreezingbelowareuniquetothisformoficeandwillguaranteeasuccessfulgranita.Theaim is to achieve a free running ice of uniformconsistencymadeupof large,flavouredicecrystalsnotdissimilarinsizetoricegrains.

Make the granita according to the recipe and thoroughly chill the liquidmixture in the fridge. When ready, pour into one or more strong, lidded,polypropylene containers; a sandwich or shallow cake-box shape is ideal,approximately25×25×8 cm/10×10×3 inches, to give a depthofmixofapproximately 2 cm/¾ inch, then cover with the lid and freeze. To achieveuniform,smallseparateicecrystalsthroughout,theliquidwillnowneedbeatingwithatableforkatregularintervalsduringfreezing.

Firstfreezefor1houroruntil theliquidhasformedanicedrimaroundtheedgeandisstartingtofreezeonthebase.Scrapethisawaywithastrongkitchenfork and combine evenly with the remaining unfrozen liquid. Repeat thisscrapingandmixingprocessevery30minutes for the remaining2½hoursoruntilthemixtureformsasmoothconsistencyofidentifiableicecrystals.Ideally,

it shouldbeeatenatonce,but ifyouareusingour formula itcanbeheldatagoodconsistencyforupto2-3daysifstirredonceortwiceadaytobreakupanyclumpsoficecrystalsthatform,especiallyaroundtheedges.

Thismayseemlikealotofwork,especiallyifyouhavereadrecipestellingyoutobreakthemixtureupinafoodprocessoronceithasgonesolid.Ofcourseyoucandothis,buttheconsistencywillbecometoofine,likeaveryicysorbet,ratherthantheroughertextureofatruegranita.

To achieve the perfect granita, there is no substitute for the forktechnique.

ParfaitsThis isherebecauseparfaitshavea foot inbothcampsas theyusebothsugarsyrup, cream and eggs. There aremany techniques formaking parfaits, all ofwhichwehavetried.Inouropinion,therecipebelowgivesthebestresultforanalcohol-flavouredparfait.Itmayseemratherpainstakinganddetailed,butifyoufollowittothelettertheresultwillbeexcellent.

The classic flavour for a parfait is coffee. This requires a slightly differenttechnique than an alcohol-basedparfait (seeCoffeeParfait page144), as doesChocolateParfait(page121).

Of the alcohol-flavoured parfaits, we have tried we recommend thefollowing:- Cointreau, dry Sherry, Strega, Amaretto, Pernod, MandarineNapoléonandwhisky.

The amount of alcohol needed for these recipes will vary between 15-60ml/1-4tablespoons,accordingtotaste.However,donottrytoaddmorethantheupperlimitasitwillpreventtheparfaitfreezing.

For this recipeyouwillneeda thermometer,a three-speedelectrichandmixerand, preferably, a double saucepan. Failing this, select a large heatproof bowlwhichwillsitsnuglyintoasaucepan.

Into the bowl put the yolks and use the electricmixer towhisk them until

lightandpale.Warmthesyrupto30-40°C/86-104°F(aroundbloodheat),thenwhiskthis,a

fewtablespoonsatatime,intotheeggyolks.Trynottotakethisstagetoofastortheeggswillscramble.Now,eitherpositionthebowlover,notin,asaucepanofbarelysimmeringwater,orpour themixture into the topofadoublesaucepanpositionedover,butnotin,barelysimmeringwater.

Cook,stirringoccasionally tomakesure themixture isnotover-cookingonthe base or in the angles of the pan.Heat either until the temperature reaches85°C/185°Foruntilthemixturehasthickenedsufficientlytocoatthebackofaspoon.Thiswilltakeupto20-25minutes.

Now remove the mixture from over the water and pour into a large, deepmixing bowl.Using an electricwhisk beat on high speed for about 1minute.Then adjust tomedium speed and continue for a further 3-4minutes. Finally,turn down to low speed for 5 minutes. By this stage the volume will haveincreasedbyabout50%.Themixwillbealmostcoldandthickenoughtoholdaribbonofmixturetrailedoverthesurface.Putthebowlcontainingthemix,andasecondemptybowl,plusthewhippingcream,intothefridgeandleavetochillforatleast1hour.

Whenreadyremovetheemptybowl,pourinthechilledcreamandbeatuntilitformssoftpeaks.

Now remove the yolk/syrupmixture from the fridge and gently fold in thewhipped cream in about four stages. After the second lot of cream has beenadded,sprinkleinthealcoholandcontinuetofoldintheremainingcreamuntilallhasbeenaddedandisevenlymixed.

Pour into a plastic freezer box and cover with freezer film or greaseproofpaperandalid.Finally, label,andthenfreezeforat least2hours.Aparfait, iffrozensolid,willneedabout15-20minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlytoserve.

If theparfait is beingused in a bombe, pour into a preparedbombemould(seepages258to260)andproceedasforbombemaking.

IceCreamsThesearebasedontheconventionalwayofmakingacustardoverhotwater.

StandardFrenchVanillaIceCream

TheseareourfavouriteFrenchcustard-basedicecreams.

RichFrenchVanillaIceCream

MakingStandardFrenchVanillaandRichFrenchVanillaIceCreamsCombinethemilk,vanillabean(splitinhalflengthwise)andhalfthesugarinamedium-sized(notaluminium)saucepanandbringtojustbelowboilingpoint.Remove the pan from the heat, cover and leave aside for a minimum of 15minutestoallowthevanillaflavourtodevelop.

Meanwhile, inamedium-sizedheatproofbowl,combine theeggyolkswiththe remainingsugarandbeat,preferablywithanelectrichandwhisk,until themixtureispaleandthick.

Remove the vanilla bean from the milk, and using the tip of a knife or a

teaspoon,scrapethevanillaseedsfromthepodandstirintothemilk.Bringthemilkbacktoboilingpoint,thenpouritslowlyinathinstreamonto

theeggyolksandsugar,whiskingsteadilyasthemilkisadded.Thebowlcannowbeplacedoverapanofsimmeringwater,or thecustard

canbereturnedtothesaucepan,whichisthenputontopofaheat-diffusermatso that it is not in direct contactwith the heat. Only if you have an accuratethermometer and/or are confident that youwill not overheat the sauce, shouldyouputthesaucepanoveragentledirectheat.Useasmallnon-metallicspoonorspatulatostirthecustard.(Donotuseawhisktobeatthemixtureasitcooks.Thiscan introducesomuchair into themix that the temperaturereadingwillactuallydrop.)Asitheatsoverwater,thecustardwillnotsufferaslongasit is stirred frequently and it will take from 5-30 minutes (depending on thethicknessofthebowlorthepan)tothickensufficiently,orreach85°C/185°F.

Overdirectheatthecustardneedsconstantattentionandwilltakeabout8-10minutes. Without a thermometer: to judge if the custard has thickenedsufficiently,removethespoonandtilt thebackof it towardsyou.Lookfirstattheway the sauce coats the spoon. If it forms only a thin film, try drawing ahorizontal lineacross thebackof thespoon.Thisshouldholdaclearshape. Ifnot, continue cooking the custard until it coats the back of the spoon morethicklyandholdsaclearline.

As soon as the custard has reached the right temperature or thickenedsufficiently,removethepanfromtheheatandplungethebaseinafewinchesofcoldwater.Onnoaccountshouldthecustardbeallowedtooverheatorboilasthemixturewillcurdle.(Forhowtodealwithanoverheatedcustardseebelow.)Leavetocool,stirringoccasionallyuntilthemixturefeelsasthoughithasneverbeenheated,thenrefrigerate.Whenreadyaddthecream,thenstillorstirfreeze(page80.)

HowtodealwithoverheatedcustardIfthecustardoverheats,atatemperatureofabout88°C/190°F,theproteinintheeggwillcoagulateandharden,andthecustardwilltakeonavelvetylook.Ifthisbegins tohappen,or themixtureboils, immediately remove from theheat andplunge the pan or basin into coldwater.Whisk vigorously for 1minute or sountilthetemperaturedropsbelowthedangerpoint.Continuecarefullyaspertherecipe.

Somepeopleadvocateusingasmallamountofcornflourinanattempttostopcustards overheating and curdling. In our opinion, it is better to avoid usingcornflour. The temperature required adequately to cook the cornflour, to the

pointthatyoucannottastethestarch,ismuchhigherthaneggscanstand.Andtoadd enough cornflour to hold the eggs at a sufficiently high temperature for alongenoughtimetothickenthecornflourcompletelychangesthenatureofthecustard.Lifeismucheasierifyouuseathermometer.

Removethepanfromthecoldwaterbathandtransferthecustardtoabowlorjug.Coverandchillinthefridge.Themixturecanbeleftovernightatthisstage.Whenready,starttheice-creammachine.Stirthechilledcreamintothecustard.Eitherstill-freezeorchurn(seeFreezingpage80-81)until the icecreamis theconsistencyofsoftlywhippedcream.

GelatomadewithEggsStandardItalianVanillaGelato

ThisisaversionoftheclassicItaliangelato.Usuallymadeentirelywithmilk,itisthereforelesscreamythanforexampleStandardFrenchVanillaIceCreambutit is also slightly colder and more icy. (For an explanation of this, see TheScienceofIcespage305)However,theloweroverrun,anothercharacteristicofthisicecream,givesanincreaseddensitywhichhastheeffectofintensifyingtheflavourtosomethingthatiswhollymilk,andisclean,clearandlight.Aseasideice cream in every way andmany people’s idea of what an ice cream shouldreallytastelike.

Combinethemilk,vanillabean(splitinhalflengthwise)andhalfthesugarinamedium-sized(notaluminium)saucepanandbringtojustbelowboilingpoint.Remove the pan from the heat, cover and leave aside for a minimum of 15minutestoallowthevanillaflavourtodevelop.

Meanwhile, inamedium-sizedheatproofbowl,combine theeggyolkswiththe remainingsugarandbeat,preferablywithanelectrichandwhisk,until themixtureispaleandthick.

Bringthemilkbacktoboilingpoint,thenpouritslowlyinathinstreamontotheeggyolksandsugar,whiskingsteadilyasthemilkisadded.

Thebowlcannowbeplacedoverapanofsimmeringwater,or thecustard

canbereturnedtothesaucepan,whichisthenputontopofaheat-diffusermatso that it is not in direct contactwith the heat. Only if you have an accuratethermometer and/or are confident that youwill not overheat the sauce, shouldyouputthesaucepanoveragentledirectheat.Useasmallnon-metallicspoonorspatula*tostirthecustard.Asitheatsoverwater,thecustardwillnotsufferaslongasitisstirredfrequentlyanditwilltakefrom5-30minutes(dependingonthethicknessofthebowlorthepan)tothickensufficiently,orreach85°C/185°F.

Overdirectheatthecustardneedsconstantattentionandwilltakeabout8-10minutes. Without a thermometer to judge if the custard has thickenedsufficiently,removethespoonandtilt thebackofit towardsyou.Lookfirstattheway the sauce coats the spoon. If it forms only a thin film, try drawing ahorizontal lineacross thebackof thespoon.Thisshouldholdaclearshape. Ifnot, continue cooking the custard until it coats the back of the spoon morethicklyandholdsaclearline.

As soon as the custard has reached the right temperature or thickenedsufficiently,removethepanfromtheheatandplungethebaseinafewinchesofcoldwater.Onnoaccountshouldthecustardbeallowedtooverheatorboilasthe mixture will curdle. (For how to deal with an overheated custard seeopposite)

Leave to cool, stirring occasionally until themixture feels as though it hasneverbeenheated.Stillorstirfreeze (page80)andthenquicklyscrape intoplasticfreezerboxesand coverwith freezer film or greaseproof paper and a lid. Finally, label, andthen freeze until firm which will take about 2 hours. Once frozen allow 20minutestosofteninthefridgebeforeserving.*Donotuseawhisktobeatthemixtureasitcooks.Thiscanintroducesomuchairintothemixthatthetemperaturereadingwillactuallydrop.

GelatomadewithCornflour/CornstarchThis is a basic inexpensive gelato made in the conventional way using acornflour/cornstarch-basedcustardoverdirectheat.Itcontainsnoeggs.Itisthesortoficecreamthatwasmadeandsoldbystreetsellersinthepast.

AnyonewhohasevermadequantitiesofBird’sCustardwillknowthismethodwell.

Inamediumsize,heatproofbowlmixthesugarandthecornflour/cornstarch.Addjustsufficientofthemeasuredmilkfromtherecipetoformathinpaste,2to3tablespoonsmilkisusuallyenough.Bringtherestofthemeasuredmilktotheboil.Pourontotheblend,stirring,andthenreturnitalltothepan.Bringtotheboil,stirringconstantly.Assoonasitreachesboilingpointremovefromtheheatandcool.

Thereisnoneed,astheinstructionsoftensay,toboilthecornflour/cornstarchmix.Itonlyneedsgentlythickeningandshouldremaineasilypourable.

WefoundlittlehelpfromthemanufacturersonthissubjectsowecontactedHaroldMcGeewhoconfirmedourviewthatboilingacornflour/cornstarchmixservesnousefulpurposeanditwillultimatelybecomethin.

Chill and freeze the gelato according to the instructions formaking ItalianGelato(seepage75).

GELATOWITHCHOCOLATEFUDGESAUCE(PAGE268)

HowtoMicrowaveCustardsforIceCreamorGelatoPleaseseemicrowavespage51toassesstheaccuracyofyourmicrowave.

Forall the following recipes you canuse semi-skimmedorwholemilk;theresultusingwholemilkwillbeveryslightlycreamier.

WeuseaBoschmicrowaveat900W.Higherandlowerpoweredmicrowavesneed the timing adjusting and we suggest you make a trial run using athermometer. (Seepage51.)A 600Wmicrowavewill take 50% longer than a900Wone.

Acurved-base,handledplasticjugisbesttouseinamicrowaveasyoucaneasily hold the jug handlewhilewhipping, to stop it spinning around and thehandleremainscoolsoitiseasytoliftoutofthemicrowavewithoutacloth.

Wealwaysstandthejugorbowlonaheatproofglassplateinthemicrowave–justincase!

UsingeggsTheproblemwithmakingacustard-basedicecreamorgelato,usingeggs,isthatyouhavetowatchitlikeahawktoensurethatthemixturedoesnotboil.Followthe instructions in detail and the timing exactly. However once you havemastered the technique and got used tomaking custards in amicrowave it isabsolutelysimple.

Usingcornflour/cornstarchMaking a custard-based ice cream or a gelato using cornflour/cornstarch issimpler as youdonot have towatch it so carefully.Youwill quicklyget to apointwhereyoucanputitinthemicrowaveandwaitforthepingandnotwatchitatall.

MethodThemethodforbotheggsandcornflour/cornstarchisalmostthesame.

MicrowaveCustardusingEggsIn a 2 litre (4 pint US), preferably rounded-based, handled, microwaveableplasticjugcombinetheeggyolkswiththesugarandbeatuntiltheyarethickandlemoncoloured.Addthemilkandbeatwell.

Microwaveon900Wfortwoandahalfminutes.Removeandbeatbrisklyforabout10seconds.(Thetemperatureofthemixturewillbeabout55°C/130°F.)

Returntothemicrowaveon900Wforanothertwoandahalfminutes.Beatbrisklyagain.(Thetemperatureofthemixturewillbeabout85°C/185°F.)

Nowplacethejuginabasinofcoldwater tostopthecookingimmediatelyand allow to cool completely, stirring occasionally, before refrigerating. Chillcompletely.When ready add the chilled cream then either still freeze or stirfreeze(page80).

MicrowaveFrenchVanillaIceCreamwithEggs

MicrowaveVanillaGelatowithEggs

MicrowaveCustardusingCornflour/CornstarchIna2litre(4pintUS)preferablyrounded-basedhandled,microwaveableplasticjug mix the sugar and the cornflour/cornstarch. Add just sufficient of themeasuredmilkfromtherecipe toforma thinpaste,2 to3 tablespoonsmilk isusually enough.When you have a thoroughlymixed paste add the rest of themilk.

Then microwave on 900W for two and a half minutes. Remove and beatbriskly for about 10 seconds. (The temperature of the mixture will be about55°C/130°F.) Return to the microwave on 900W for another two and a halfminutes. Beat briskly again. (The temperature of the mixture will be about85°C/185°F.)

Now plunge the jug into a basin of cold water to stop the cookingimmediately and allow to cool completely, stirring occasionally, beforerefrigerating.Chillcompletely.Whenreadyaddthechilledcreambeforeeitherstillfreezingorstirfreezing.

MicrowaveFrenchVanillaIceCreamwithCornflour

MicrowaveVanillaGelatowithCornflour

FreezingTechniquesHaving made your ice mixture there are basically two ways of freezing it.Choose one from the methods below. Then refer to the full explanationfollowing.Method1. Still freezing.This is simply pouring themix into a plastic box and freezing it. There is nomechanicalagitationduringfreezing.Seeadditionalnotebelow.

Method2.Stirfreezing.Themixischurnedasitfreezes.Thechurningmaybeeitherbyhandorbyelectricmotor.

StillFreezinginadomesticfreezerFor successful still freezing we strongly recommend that you check thetemperatureofyourfreezerbeforeyoustart(seefridgesandfreezerspage70).

Pour thechilledmixture intoastrongpolypropylenecontainer,23×16×8cm/9×6×3inches,togiveadepthofmixofapproximately4cm/1½inches.Cover with a lid and put in the coldest part of the freezer. Check after 1-1½hours;themixtureshouldhavefrozentoafirmringoficearoundthesidesandbaseofthebox,withasoftslushinthecentre.Theneither:

1.Beat for a few secondswith a sturdy electric hand beater until themixtureformsauniformslush.

OR2.Quicklyprocessinafoodprocessortoauniformslush.

Quicklyreturntheicetothebox,coverandputbackinthefreezer.

Repeat the beating or processing at least twice at intervals of 1-1½ hours.Afterthethirdbeating,theicewillneedfreezingforafurther30-60minutestobe sufficiently firm to serve. If freezer space is limited it may be moreconvenienttotransferittoadeeper,smallerboxafterthethirdbeating.

Oncefrozensolid,transfertheicetothemainbodyofthefridgeforabout20minutesbeforeserving.

NOTE: Alcohol-flavoured ices will take longer to freeze and you are bestadvised tomake them the day before.However theywill require less time tosoften in the fridge and can sometimes be served almost directly from thefreezer.

StirFreezing(orChurning)IfusingachilledcanisterinsertfromamachineMakesurethatthecanisterisfully frozen inyour freezer andwhen shakenyouhear no free liquid sloshingaround.Overnightfreezingisrecommended.Ifusingamachinewithabuilt-incompressorReadthemanufacturersinstructionsbeforestarting.

Allowthenecessarytimetoprepareandchillthemachine,usuallyabout15minutes.Setthemachineinmotionbeforepouringinthechilledmix.

Churning time takes anything from 15-30 minutes until the mixture hasachievedasofticethatwillholditsownshapeinthemannerofsoftlywhippedcream.

Becarefulwithrichicecreams.Churningformuchover30minutescanturnthefatintobutterflecksintheicecream.

Usingamachine, there isanenormoustemptationtoover-churnasorbetasyouseethevolumeincrease.Tryandresistthisasitintroducestoomuchairintothefrozenmixtureandwillresultinafluffyconsistency,morelikecompressedsnowthanafrozenwaterice.

If you wish to serve the ice immediately, continue churning for up to 5minutestothestagewhereitistheconsistencyofmoderatelywhippedcream.

Quickly transfer to a plastic storage box.Cover the surface of the icewith

freezer film or greaseproof paper, which will minimise the formation of icecrystals,andthenfreeze.

StirFreezinginIce&SaltIfyouwant tomake icecream theoriginalwayusingoldequipmentwemustadvisethatmucholdequipmentismadeoflead-basedpewterandthereforewecannotrecommendthismethodotherthanfordemonstratingthetechnique.Weknow of no one whomakes ametal sorbettiere today. However old ones areoccasionallyobtainablefromantiquedealers.

In the absenceof an ice-makingmachine, purchase largebagsof ice cubesfrom either a supermarket or wine shop. These cubes need breaking up intopieces about the size of large sugar cubes either in an ice crusher or place inlargeheavy-dutyplasticbags,grasptheopenendfirmlyclosedandbashtheicewithanoldrollingpin.Fillthespacebetweenthefilledcanisterandthebucketwithalternatelayersoficeandcookingsaltinthefollowingratios.

TheRatioofSalttoIce

StorageBoxesIftheiceisnottobeservedimmediately,stopatthesoftlywhippedcreamstageand quickly transfer it to a plastic storage box. Cover with freezer film orgreaseproofpaperplaceddirectlyon theexposed surfaceof the ice to excludeany air. Coverwith a lid, label it and then freeze until firm enough to serve,approximately 1-2 hours. If frozen solid, transfer the ice to the fridge forapproximately15-30minutestosoftensufficientlytoserve.

Whilethelarge,shallow,flatterboxesarebetterformakinggranitasandstill-freezingotherices,theytakeupalotofspaceinanaverage-sizedfreezer.

Sinceitispreferabletofillboxestocapacitywithaniceandtherebyexcludeas much moisture-laden air as possible, we recommend storing ices inpolypropylene boxes of 1.2 litre/40 fl oz and 0.6 litre/20 fl oz capacity (SeeEquipmentpage46).

These should be filled to within 6 mm/¼ inch of the top to allow forexpansionduringfreezing,andthesurfaceoftheicecoveredwithfreezerfilmorgreaseproofpaper,whichwillminimisetheformationoficecrystals.

Itisextraordinaryhowquicklyyouforgetwhatisinthefreezerandhowlongithasbeenthere.Forthisreason,bemeticulousaboutlabelling.

ShelfLifeAlthoughiceswillkeepforyearsinawellmaintainedfreezerandremainsafetoeat,theeatingqualitiesofsuchiceswouldleavealottobedesired.Wefeelthatas a general rule home-made ices are best eaten within 1-2 days of making.Uncookedicesshoulddefinitelybeeatenwithinthisperiodandcookedoneswetend not to keep formore than 1month.Beyond this period flavours developunpredictably.

ServingAdvertisinghasdoneagreatdisservicetoicecreaminportrayinghoardingsandphotographsofrock-hardballsoficecream.Inordertogetthefullflavourfromices,theyneedtobeservedonedegreeremovedfrommelting.

A–ZofRecipes

BakedAlaskaIncasethisrecipeisnewtoyou,aBakedAlaskais,broadlyspeaking,alumpoficecream,onacakebase,smotheredinmeringueandbaked.As to theoriginofBakedAlaskawhatwedoknowis thatThomasJefferson

served ice cream baked in pastry in 1802 at a state banquet while he waspresidentoftheUnitedStates.Thedescriptionwas‘icecream,verygoodcrustwhollydried,crumbledintothinflakes;adishsomewhatlikeapudding’.CountRumford(1753-1814)iscreditedwithoriginatingthisdishoratleastthescienceofconductionofheatthatistheprinciplebehindthedish.BaronLeonBrisse,writingin1866,attributedittoaFrenchchefBalzacwho

learned it from a Chinese colleague who had come to Paris with a Chinesemission. However, the Chinese version used pastry rather than meringue.PresumablyJeffersonwasintroducedtoitinPariswhenhewasthere.Baked Alaska has become whatever is the opposite of trendy, but it still

excitescuriosity.Popularinthe1950sand1960sitiscertainlydueforarevival.Theoriginofmeringue isoneof thegreat culinarymythareasand its true

beginningsareunknown.Thefirstrecordsofitappearinthe17thcenturywhereitwasknownas‘sugarpuff’.Itlackedthenamemeringue.Delmonico’s chef,CharlesRanhofer, inhis cookerybook (1893) refers toa

dish called Alaska, Florida, which is rather odd. It seems to consist of twoflavours of ice cream; half banana and half vanilla, formed in a cone-shapedmould.A largerconeofSavoybiscuit ismouldedandbaked.Afterbaking thecentreiscutoutofthebiscuitandtheice-creamconeinserted.Theconeisthencoveredwithmeringueandbaked.Ranhoferisreputedtohavenamed(perhapsanotherversion)BakedAlaska forabanquetheldatDelmonico’s tocelebratethepurchaseofAlaskafromRussiain1867.HedoesnotmentionBakedAlaskainhiscookerybook.ThenameBakedAlaskadoesnotseemtohavebeeninuseuntiltheearlypartofthe20thcentury.TheforerunnerwasprobablytheFrenchomelette Norvégienne which was around in 1891 and was also known asOmeletteSurprise.MrsMarshallinFancyIces(1894)mentionsPrincessMaried’Orléans SurpriseBomb, awhite coffee bomb inside sponge cake covered in

meringueandbrownedwithasalamander.Notingtherecentresurgenceoftheprawncocktail,wehadbeenthinkingthat

the Alaska recipe was overdue for a re-revival, (it had another burst ofpopularityintheearlysixties)anditwaswhilereadingRuthWatson’srecipeinherbook,SomethingfortheWeekend:WithEightAroundtheTable(Quadrille),thatwe became inspired.We had triedBakedAlaska for possible inclusion inourfirsteditionofIces,buthadruleditoutasbeingtooinvolvedtomakeandunredeemingly sweet. Inherbook,Ruthpresented thebrilliant ideaofusingashop-bought,hollowed-outpanettonetoencaseicecream.Workingfromthis,wethoughtwecouldmakea rumflavouredpanettone ice creamusing the leftoverbitsandthelesssweetItalianmeringuetocoverthewholethingandthattheseslightlywinteryflavourswouldmakeaveryinterestingandwelcomealternativeto the traditional Christmas pudding. Then we thought we could also offer asummerversion;apanettonefilledwithstrawberryice,coveredintheless-sweetmeringueandservedwitheitheraredberriesand/oraraspberrysauce.Hencetheusualcriticismofthispuddingbeingtoosweetwouldsimplynotbethecase.Itisnotnearlyasintimidatingasitsounds.Thereisthepanettonetohollowout,theicecreamandmeringuetomake,butthiscanbedonethedaybefore.Theicecream filled panettone, covered in meringue can sit ready in the freezer,overnight.Allyouhavetodoisswitchontheovenbeforeyousitdowntoeat.Afterthemaincourse,transfertheAlaskafromfreezertooven,bakefor8to10minutesthenserve.Butdomakesurethereisplentyoffreezerspaceavailabletotakethemeringue-coveredpanettonebeforebaking.

NOTE: We found that a 25.5cm/10 in silver cake board, (these boards arereferred to as ‘drums’ by bakers) which appears to be made of compressedcardboard,wastheidealbaseonwhichtoput theAlaskabecauseitcanmovefromfreezer,tooven,totablewithnoproblem.Thesecanbeboughtinthecake-makingsectionofmostlargesupermarkets.Youwillneeda500gpanettonewhichwillserve8-10wedges.Cutoffthetopwhereitjoinsthestraightside.Hollowouttheinsideleavinga

wall10-20cm/½-¾inthickallround.Hollowoutthetopinasimilarmanner.Put aside 100 g of panettone bits if making the panettone ice cream and

spoon 125 ml/½ cup/4 fl oz of rum throughout the interior and top of thepanettone. Put a sheet of clingfilm on top of the panettone and invert thehollowed-outlidtositontop.Encasethewholethinginclingfilmandfreeze.

PanettoneIceCream

Put the panettone bits in a food processorwith theDemerara sugar and pulseuntilitformsuniformcrumbs.

Preheatthegrillathigh.Lineagrillpanwithfoilandspreadthecrumbsoutevenly. Grill until themixture is toasted to amedium/dark brown and on thepointofburning.Keepmovingthemixturearoundandreturningittothegrillsoallof itbecomesequallybrown.Thisshouldtakenomorethan2minutes; thesugarwillhavebeguntomeltandcarameliseandthewholethingwillbeslightlysmokey.Removeimmediatelyandleavetocool.Breakupthelargerpieceswithyourfingers;someofthepieceswillseemquitelarge,butthisisnobadthing.Ittastesgreatinthefinishedpudding.

Inalargejugcombinethecream,vanilla,3tablespoonsofrumandhalfthecrumb/sugarmixture.Coverandchillthecreammixtureandkeeptheremainingcrumbs,coveredwithclingfilm,ononeside.

Whenready,givethecreammixagoodstir(itwillprobablyhaveseparated),then freeze according to the recipe forStandard FrenchVanilla Ice Creampage72.As soon as the ice cream is ready, stir in the remaining crumbs andsugar bits. Quickly unwrap the panettone and remove the lid. Scoop the icecreamintothebaseandlid,andthenlevelbothsurfaces.Putthelidbackontopand apply a little gentle pressure to combine the two, then quickly wrap thewholethingcloselyinclingfilmandreturnittothefreezer.

About12hoursbefore servingmakeupabatchofItalianMeringue,page284.Removethepanettonefromthefreezer,unwrapanduseablobofmeringueto anchor it on the cake board. Now smother the whole thing in an eventhickness of swirled meringue. Make sure the meringue covers the sides andmeetsthebaseoftheboardanddonotleavetoomuchmeringuepiledontopoftheAlaskaoritwillnotfitbackintothefreezer.Refreeze.Itwillkeephappilyovernight,oruntilyouarereadytobakeitthefollowingday.

Preheattheovento200°C/400°F/GasMark6.BaketheAlaskafor8minutes,oruntilanicetawnybrown.Serveimmediately.Itseemsslightlyeasiertoserveif you use a serrated bread knife to cut it in half, and then cut it in wedges

thereafter.

PanettoneBakedAlaskaSummerVersionHerewehaveoptedforasimple,uncookedicecream.Usethesamesize500gpanettone,followthemethodonpage84,butuse100

mlofeitherkirsch,orframboisetomoistenthebaseandlid,insteadofrum.Thisversion does not use the crumbs removed from the panettone; as Ruth says, ‘scoffthem’!Have the panettone, soaked in liqueur, wrapped and frozen in the freezer

beforemakingthestrawberryicecream.

Rinseandhullthestrawberriesthendrythemthoroughlyonkitchenpaper.Putthem in a food processorwith the sugar and process briefly so the chunks ofstrawberryremaindiscernible.Pourthisintoalargejugthencoverandchill.

When ready combine the cream with the strawberry puree and stir in thelemon juice, and then freeze according to the recipe for Standard FrenchVanillaIceCreampage72.Thenimmediatelyusetofillthepanettonebaseandlid,asdescribedabove.

Quicklyre-wrapandreturntothefreezerandcontinuetofollowthemethodabove,formakingthemeringue,usingittocoverthepanettone,refreezingandbakingtheAlaska.

Servewithfreshredberries,and/orRaspberrySauce(seepage272)

ALMOND&LEMONGELATOCAPRILÚ

Almond&LemonGelato–CaprilúOneoftheverybesticecreamswehavetastedforalongtimewasinCapri,atFerdinandoBuonocore’sbakeryandgelateria.InfacthisicesareoneofourtwomostfavouriteinthewholeofItaly.(TheotherwasManaflavouredatAlberto

Pica’s in Rome.) Buonocore’s speciality is Caprilú which is an almond andlemongelato.WhenwewerefilminginCapriwemethiminhislaboratoriaandat his gelateria. Although he would not divulge the recipe, he did tell us theingredients, so this is our attempt to duplicate his delicious ice cream. Ah!Capri.

Washandscrubtheskinsofthelemonsinhotsoapywater,rinsewell,andthendry. Remove the zest from the lemons with a zester and chill the zest in thefridge.Squeezeoneofthelemonsandsetaside.

Removetheskinfromthealmondsbyputtingtheminapanofboilingwater;boilfor1minute;draininasieve,sluicewithcoldwater.Theskinswillslipoffquite easily. (We find that blanched (skinned) almonds never have as good aflavourasthewholeones.)Chillthealmondsinthefridge.

Putthezestandthechilledskinnedalmondsintoafoodprocessorwithhalfthe sugar and pulse in short bursts until the zest has completely beenincorporated into the sugar and almondmix, and themix is the texture of thesugar; do it in short bursts so as not to generate too much heat in the foodprocessor.Ifthemixtureheatsitgetsoily.Chillingeverythinghelpspreventthis.

Nowusing the remainder of the sugar, the egg yolks and themilk proceedaccordingtotherecipeforStandardItalianGelatopage75.Oncethecustardiscookedstirinthehoney,thentheprocessedalmonds,sugarandlemonzestthencool,coverandchillinthefridge.

Whenready,tasteandaddthelemonjuice,ifliked,ateaspoonatatime.Inthis gelato you should be able to taste the almonds, lemon and honey clearly.Theneitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.Serveitjustonitsown.

AlmondGranitaIt isverydifficultgetting thealmond flavour inawater iceandwehave triedmany methods, but this one really does achieve it. It produces a wonderfullyrefreshing granita,which relies on orgeat, a syrupmade fromalmonds, sugarand flower water that is used extensively in cocktail-making. We expresslyrecommendFrenchorgeatandnoother.Usingalmondsalonesimplyproducesagritty,roughicewitharatherunpleasantaftertaste.

Combinethechilledsyrup,orgeatandchilledwaterinajugandstirthoroughly.Add 2 Tbsp of the lemon juice, taste and add the third, if necessary. Do notworryifittastesratherflat,freezingandthetextureimprovethetasteoutofallrecognition.

FordetailedinstructionsonhowtomakeaGranitaseepage71.Serving:decoratewiththeslivered,toastedalmonds.

AmarettoParfait

Methodseepage71.

AngelicaSorbetAssociating angelica with the crystallised green bits on the top of trifle andbutter-creamcoveredcakes,wewereunsurewhetherfreshangelicawouldmakeagood sorbet. Though the result is not to everyone’s tastewewereagreeablysurprised. We found the flavour very complementary to other fruits, such asrhubarbandapple,andexquisitewithsoftredberriesandpeaches.Weoriginallytriedangelicaleaves,butyoungoroldtheyareinclinedtobe

bitterwhenusedinthequantityneededtoflavourasorbet.Usingthefreshstalksalonegaveusexactlytheflavourwewerelookingfor.

Washcarefully,dryandcuttheangelicastemin2.5cm/1inchpieces.Puttheminanon-reactivesaucepanwiththesugarsyrupandthewater.Bringtotheboilandboilgently for2minutes.Removefromtheheat,add thewineand lemonjuiceandcoolovernightinthefridge.Whenready,strainthemixtureandeitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).

Servewithinonehouroriffrozensolid,itwillthenneedabout30minutesinthefridgebeforeitissoftenoughtoserve.

NOTE: Angelica plants (Angelica archangelica) can be bought at nurseriesspecialisinginherbs,butbeware–theygrowverylarge.

BramleyAppleIceCreamAsfirmchampionsofBritishapples,andcookingapplesinparticular,weweretryingtogetano-nonsenseBramleyflavourtocomethroughinthisicecream.Weachieveditbymarblingapplepureethroughavanillaicecream.

Using the above quantities ofmilk, vanilla, sugar and egg yolks, prepare andcookthecustardaccordingtothemethodformakingFrenchVanillaIceCream(seepage72).Coverandchillinthefridge.

Topreparetheapple,peel,quarterandcoretheapplesandsliceimmediatelyintoapancontainingthegratedzest,lemonjuiceandwater.Tosstheappleslicesinthisasyouworktopreventthembrowning.Transferthepantotheheatandcook,covered,overaverylowheat,untiltheyhavesoftenedtoapulp;about15minutes.Removethepanfromtheheat,stirinthe2Tbspofsugarthenrecover,coolandchillinthefridge.

Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreeze(pages80to81)Whenfrozenquicklyscrape the ice cream into a plastic freezer box at least 1 litre/4 cups/32 fl ozcapacity and fold in the chilled apple pulp. Do not worry if this is not doneevenly,marblingaddscharactertotheicecream.Levelthesurface,coverwithapieceoffreezerfilmorgreaseproofpaperandalid,labelthenfreeze.

Servewithinonehouroriffrozensolid,itwillthenneedabout30minutesinthefridgebeforeitissoftenoughtoserve.

Good servedwithCider Sorbet (see page 136), and/orLightLemon andSultanaSauce (seepage270) or hot stewedblackberries.A little esoteric butwellworthtrying:servewithhotelderflowerfrittersandlemonsauceminusthesultanas.

Apple&VerbenaSorbetVerbenaisaherbthatdoesnotfeatureveryoften,perhapsbecauseitneedssuchcarefuluse; toomuch in thewrongplacecalls tomind thesmellof soapsandcosmetics, and the association can ruin the enjoyment of the food. It is anunusuallemonflavour,slightlyold-fashioned,butonethatworksverywellwithapples,makingasorbetthatmarrieswellwithavanillaicecream.

NOTE:Theapplecontributesafairamountofpectinandfibretothissorbet,making it denser when frozen, so it will need some 30 minutes in the fridgebeforeitissufficientlysofttoserve.

Rinse the sprigs of verbena and pat dry. Put one sprig into a mediumsizedsaucepanwiththesyrupandbringslowlytosimmeringpoint.Meanwhilepeel,quarterandcoretheapples.Thenimmediatelyslicethemthinlydirectlyintothehotsyruptolimitthembrowning.Bringbacktosimmeringpoint,thencoverandcookgentlyuntiltheappleslicesaretender.Removethepanfromtheheatandleavetocoolfor15minutes.

Remove the sprig of verbena from the poached apples and transfer thecontents of the saucepan to a food processor or blender. Add a further dozenleaves from the remaining sprig of verbena, the strained lemon juice and thewater.Blenduntil theapplesarereducedtoasmoothpureeandtheverbenaisfinelychopped.Tastetoassesstheverbenaflavour,andadduptoafurtherdozenleaves.Transfer the puree to a jug, cover and chill in the fridge.When ready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).

Servewithinonehouroriffrozensolid,itwillthenneedabout30minutesinthefridgebeforeitissoftenoughtoserve.

Pippin&RosePetalIceCreamThisisanicecreamforanIndiansummer,whenrosesstarttolookblowzyandthefirstoftheCox’sOrangePippinsarriveintheshops.Weusedthepetalsofasmall,palepink, scentedrose,ahybridmuskcalledFelicia,both to infuse thecream and torn up in the made ice cream, and found it, combined with theflavouroftheapples,toproduceanexquisiteice.However,donotworryifyoucannot get this particular variety, simply use any highly scented rose varietyavailable. (For suggested varieties see Rose Petal Ice Cream page 221).Decoratetheicewithafewcrystallisedrosepetalsscatteredovereachserving.Admittedlyaveryfeminineicecream.

NOTE:Pleasebesure thatyouuseuntreatedroses i.e.unsprayedrosesonly,andthattheyarefreshlypicked.

PIPPINANDROSEPETALICECREAM

Take3headsof the rosesandpull away thepetalson toaplate.Sort throughthemcarefully(theycancarryasurprisingamountofwildlife)anddiscardanydamagedouterpetals.Putthemintoasaucepanwiththecreamandbringtotheboil,thenremovefromtheheat,coverandleavetoinfuse.Tasteafter30minutesto see if the flavour is strongenough to flavourboth thecreamand theapple.Howlongthiswilltakevariesconsiderablyaccordingtothetypeofrose.Strainthecream,pressingtherosepetalsfirmlytoextractallthecreamandflavour.

Peel,coreandslicetheapplesthinly.Ifpossible,cooktheminamicrowaveasthismethodneedsnoadditionalwater.Simplyputtheappleslicesintoalargeshallowmicrowavecasserolesothattheyaredistributedinathinlayer.Squeezethe lemon juiceover theapples,coverandmicrowaveonfullheat forabout4minutes or until the apple forms a soft pulp. Otherwise, cook gently with anadditional30ml/2Tbspofwaterinacoveredsaucepanuntiltheapplesaresoft.

Transferthepulptoafoodprocessororblender,addthesugarandblendtoasmoothpuree.Pourintoabowl,coverandchillinthefridgeuntilreadytouse.

Combinetheflavouredcreamwiththeapplepuree.Then,eitherstillorstirfreeze(pages80to81).

Whiletheicecreamis left tochurnpreparetheremainingroseheadsinthesameway,thentearthepetalsintosmallpieces.

Assoonastheicehaschurnedtotheconsistencyofwhippedcream,quicklyscrapeintoplasticfreezerboxes,sprinklingwiththerosepetalsasyougo.Stironceortwicetomixevenly,smooththesurface,thenfreezeforaminimumof1hour. Allow approximately 20 minutes in the fridge before serving, if frozenhard. Serve this ice cream as fresh as possible. Do not store formore than 3days.

Apricot&CardamomSherbetA light, clean combination of milk, fresh apricots and a subtle spicing ofcardamom.

Rinse, dry, halve and stone the apricots. Put the fruit in a panwith the sugarsyrup and lightly crushed cardamom pods. Bring to the boil, then cover andsimmergentlyfor5-10minutesoruntilthefruitisjusttender.Removefromtheheat and leave to cool. Discard the cardamom pods before transferring thecontentsofthepantothefoodprocessororblender.(Ifthecardamompodsarepureedwiththefruittheflavourcouldbealittletoostrong.)Blendthefruittoasmoothpuree,andthenchecktheconsistency;somevarietiesofapricotcanbefibrousinawaythatneitherfoodprocessornorblenderscanbreakdown,soitmaybenecessarytosievethepureeatthisstage.Transfertoabowlthencoverandchillinthefridge.Combinetheapricotpuree,chilledmilkandsugarsyrup,then taste and flavourwith a squeezeof lemon juice.Then, either still or stirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houroriffrozensolid,allow20minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

Apricot,Honey&YoghurtIceAnexcellentstore-cupboardicecreamthatiseasilymade.

Pourthecontentsofthecanofapricotsintoafoodprocessororblender.Addthehoney,thenthesugarmixedwiththecornflourandpulseuntilmixed.Pourintoapanandbringtotheboil,stirring.Boilgentlyfor2-3minutesthenremovefromthe heat and cool. Stir in the apricot brandy and the yoghurt and chill in thefridge.

Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithinonehouroriffrozensolid,itwillthenneedabout30minutesin

thefridgebeforeitissoftenoughtoserve.

ApricotSorbetApricotsareoneofthemostdisappointingofthesoftfruits.Theypromisemuchbutsoseldomdeliver–theflavourbeingwoollyandelusive.Bycontrastdriedapricotsaremuchmorereliableandsuffernoseasonality.

Rinsetheapricotsandputtheminamediumsizedsaucepan.Pourintheboilingwater,coverandleaveasidefor1hour.Placethepanovertheheatandbringtotheboil.Nowadjusttheheattoagentlesimmerandcookcoveredforabout15minutes or until the apricots are tender. Put straight into a food processor orblender; blend to a smooth puree, then sieve and add the sugar syrup and thestrained lemon juice. Add 2 drops only of bitter almond essence, as thisflavouringshouldbeverysubtle.Tasteandaddmorelemonjuice, ifpreferred.Transfertoacontainer;coverandchillinthefridge

Whenready,strainthemixtureandeitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80 to81).Servewithinonehouror if frozen solid, itwill thenneed about30minutesinthefridgebeforeitissoftenoughtoserve.

AvocadoIceCreamThatanavocadoisnotastarter,foreverweddedtovinaigrette,prawnsorcrab,isstill inclinedtoshock.Ifyoumightbefacingthissortofresistance,slipthisice cream into a selection of Honey and Toasted Walnut (see page 171),Espressocoffee(seepage141),andButtermilk(seepage109).

Make a custard following the instructions for Standard French Vanilla IceCream(seepage72),substitutingthevanillaextractforthevanillabean.Stirinthevanillawhenthethickenedcustardisremovedfromtheheat.

Leave thepan containing the custard sitting in coldwaterwhilst youhalveand scoop the avocado flesh from the shells into a food processor or blender.Pour in the warm custard and blend until smooth. At this stage, strain themixturethroughasieveintoabowl.Itwillneedstirringtopersuadethemixturethrough the sieve as it is quite a thick consistency. Taste the custard and addsufficient lemon juice tobring forward the tasteof the avocado.Then insert apieceofbutteredgreaseproofpaper to liedirectlyonthesurfaceof thecustardandsealittotheedgeandupthesideofthebowl;thisexcludestheairandstopstheavocadodiscolouringinthefridge.

NOTE:Becausetheavocadosarepronetodiscolouritisbesttomaketheicecreamassoonasthemixturehaschilled.Thecolourwilldeadenandbrown,thelongerthemixtureisleft.Whenready,strainthemixtureandeitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

Avocado&CoffeeIceCreamEsKrimAdpokat

Thisstartlingcombination foradessert icecreamcomes fromThailand.Don’t

attemptitunlesstheavocadopearsareborderingontheoverripe;i.e.softtothetouchbutundamaged.

Combine the milk, sugar and coffee together in a saucepan and bring to justbelowboilingpoint.Removethepanfromtheheatandstirinthevanillaextract.Leaveononesidewhilstyouhalvetheavocadosandremovetheirstones.Thenuseaspoontoscoopoutthefleshintoafoodprocessororblender.Blenduntilsmooth then,with themachine still running, pour in themilkmixture via thefunnel.Ifthefoodprocessorisnotlargeenoughtotakealltheliquid,simplyaddasmuchas itwill accommodate.When themixture seems smooth, strain it toremoveanypiecesof avocadoor flakesofbrown skin fromaround the stone.Whiskinanyremainingmilkmixture.Thismixturewillloseitsluminousgreenand discolour the longer it is left, so cover closely with buttered greaseproofpaper,pushingitdowndirectlyontothesurfaceoftheliquidandontothesidesofthejugtoexcludeasmuchairaspossible.Thenrefrigerate.Oncethemixturehascooledsufficientlyeitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin 1 hour or, if frozen solid, allow 30 minutes in the fridge to softensufficientlyforserving.

Servewithadrizzleofstrongcoffeesyruppage275orsesameseedbrittlepage285.

Baileys®OriginalIceCreamAverysimple,verysuccessfulrecipe.Thanks to theBaileys, the icecreamhasquiteahighalcoholcontent,whichhastheeffectofloweringthefreezingpoint.Thismeans the icecreamneverreachesa firmenoughstage toserve fromthechurn. It will definitely need overnight in the freezer to get cold enough andharden sufficiently. Do not be tempted to add more Baileys to the ice-cream

mixtureas,ifyoudo,itwillprobablyneverfreezeinanormaldomesticfreezer.BettertopoursomeBaileysovertheicecreamwhenitisserved.

Combine the ingredients and stir occasionally until the sugar dissolves.Coverandchillinthefridge.

Whenready,strainthemixtureandeitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80 to 81). Freeze overnight. This ice cream can be served straight from thefreezer.

DRUNKINCHARGEOFICECREAMBARROWAntonioCocozza,Gallowgate,Glasgow,wasfined£1or10daysinGlasgowCentralPoliceCourt

yesterdayforbeingdrunkwhileinchargeofanicecreambarrowinArgyleStreetatStockwellStreet.Hesaiditwashisfirstoffence.

THEICECREAMINDUSTRYMAGAZINE,JULY1938

RoastBananaGelatoRoast bananas have a very different flavour from uncooked ones. This recipetakes full advantage of this wonderful sweet mellow baked banana flavour.HoweverthebananasMUSTberipeandoneofthebestwaystotelliftheyarereallyripeistocheckthattheyarespottyontheskinsandnothardtothetouch.

Heattheovento190°C/375°F/GasMark5.

Lineabakingdishortraywithfoilandplacethebananas,intheirskins,onthefoil.Bakefor15minutesoruntiltheskinsareblackandbegintoburstopen.Thenremovefromtheovenandusingaknifeandfork,cuttheendsoff,openupthebananaskinsandscoopoutthepulpintoabowlanddiscardtheskins;mashthepulp, cover and leave to cool.Make thegelato according to the recipe forStandard ItalianGelato page 75. Then take the hot custard and beat in thebananapulp.Chillinthefridge.

Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

Servewithroastedpineapple,orfigs.

BananaIceCreamDead simple, noproblemsand excellent result.Theonly thing is to keep yournervewith thebananas.Let themripento thestagewheretheyareabout two-thirdsblackandtheflavouroftheicecreamwillbeexcellent.

Peelthebananasandcutintochunks.Putthemintoafoodprocessororblenderwiththelemonjuiceandsugarandblenduntilsmooth.Addthemilkandprocess

again,briefly.Pour intoa jugandinsertapieceofclingfilmdirectlyontopoftheliquid,sealingtheclingfilmrightuptotheedgethenupthesideofthejug.Excluding the air in this way will minimise the discol-oration of the banana.Chill in thefridge.Assoonas themixture ischilled,combinewith thechilledcream.Then,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

VARIATION:BananaRum/Gin.Thebananaflavournotonlymarrieswellwithrum but also with gin. Add the alcohol gradually after the chilled cream, atablespoonatatime,tastingasyougo.Uptoamaximumof4tablespoons.

Banana,BrownSugar&PeanutBrittleIceCream

One recipeBanana IceCream (see opposite), omitting the vanilla sugar andsubstitutingsoftbrownsugar.OnerecipePeanutBrittle(seepage285).

Makesabout1litre4cups32floz

MakethebananamixturefollowingtheinstructionsforBananaIceCream(seeopposite),substitutingsoftbrownsugarforthevanillasugar.Sealcloselywithclingfilmandleavetochillinthefridge.

Meanwhile, prepare the PeanutBrittle following the instructions on page285,andleavetocoolandharden.Breakthesolidifiedbrittleintosmallnugget-sizedpiecesbypounding,nottooforcefully,inamortarandpestle.Itisbestnotto reduce it toapowderas thisdissolves in the icecream; it ismuchbetter tocomeacrosscrispbitsofnuttycaramel.

Sprinkle the peanut brittle onto the frozen ice cream and stir two or threetimesbeforelevelling.Thenstore.Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

THEMUSSOLINIATTITUDEAnice-creamseller,AlbertAmerigosummonedatWestHartlepoolPoliceCourtforobstructingthehighway,saidthatP.C.Stubbs,whotoldhimtomovehiscart,addedtheremark,‘DoyouthinkyouareMussolini that you can standwhere you like?’ –P.C. Stubbs denied that hemade the remarkattributedtohim.‘Ididsay,’heexplained‘YoucannottaketheMussoliniattitude.’Amigowasfined5/-(fiveshillings).

THEICECREAMINDUSTRYMAGAZINE,APRIL1935

BananaYoghurtIce

Cut thebananas into chunks,put them ina foodprocessor andblendwith thehoney. Liquidise until smooth then add the yoghurt and blend again, untilsmooth. Stop the machine and add strained lemon juice to taste. Chill in thefridge.

Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Serve within 1 hour or, if frozen solid, allow 30 minutes in the fridge to

softensufficientlyforserving.

Banana&FudgeRippleIceCream1 recipeBanana Ice Cream page 95 and 125 ml/ ½ cup/4 fl oz ChocolateFudgeSauce.Forrecipeandmethodseepage268.

BanoffeePieIceCreamWithapologiestotheHungryMonkrestaurantnearEastbourneinEngland,whoclaimtohavecomeupwiththeoriginalrecipeforBanoffeePiein1972.Thisistheirpiedoneasanicecream.Wehavetriedtosticktothespiritoftheoriginalrecipeandretainall itsstarqualities.Theunusualelement is thebutter in theice-creammix.Thiswillbesoftlysetjustbeforefreezinganditisforthisreasonweprefertostirfreezethismix,asacontinuousmotionisneededtoincorporatethebutterevenlyintothefreezingicecream.

BANANAANDFUDGERIPPLEICECREAM

We thought itwasworth stickingwith this recipebecause itmakesagood,fudgey-tastingicecream.

Youwillneeda20cm/8-9inchspringformtinwitharemovablebase.Linethebasewithacircleofsiliconepaper.

Tomake the base put the biscuits in a food processor.Melt the butter in asmall saucepan and pour into the processor. Blend until the biscuits areuniformlygroundtofinecrumbsandmixedwiththebutter.Lightlysmooththemixtureinthebaseofthespringformtin;coverwithaplateandputinthefridgetochill.(Note:Ifthecrumbbaseispressedintoofirmlyitisquitedifficulttocutthroughwhenserving.)

For the icecreamcombine thesugarandbutter ina20cm/8 inchsaucepanandmeltoveralowtomoderateheat.Whenthemixtureissmoothandbubblingstirinthecondensedmilkandbringtotheboil.Assoonasthemixtureisboilingin the centre as well as around the edge, time it for 2 minutes and continueboiling,stirringfrequently.Removethepanfromtheheatandgraduallystir inthemilk.Leave to cool then cover and chill in the fridge.During chilling thebutterwillcometothesurfaceandlightlyset.Donotworry;thisisabsolutelyasitshouldbe.Duringchurningitwillbecomeincorporatedintothemix.

Whenready,churnthecondensedmilkmixtureaccordingtotheinstructionson page 80. Gently spread the frozen ice cream onto the biscuit base in thespringformpan.Cover the icecreamcloselywithclingfilmand transfer to thefreezerovernight.

About50minutesbeforeserving,beatthecreamuntilitisjuststiffenoughtoholdashape.Peel3ofthebananasandthinlyslicelengthways.Removethepie

from the freezer and remove the clingfilm, but leave the outside ring of thespringform in place.Cover the surface of the piewith a single layer of slicedbananas.(Slicingtheminthismannermeansthepiecesstayinplacewhenyouspreadover thewhippedcream.)Whip thecreamso it justholdsa shape thenspread over the bananas.Replace the pie in the fridge and leave for about 45minutesuntilitissoftenoughtoserve.

Asa final flourishyoucandecorate itwith slicesof the remainingbanana.JustalittleoftheStrongCoffeeSyrup,page275canbesweptinstraightlines,backandacrossthetoporsprinklewithsomecoffeegroundsifpreferred.

BayLeaf,Lemon&WhiteWineGranitaThe flavour of bay is usually associated with savoury recipes, but its strangeflavour,bestdescribedbyTomStobartas ‘balsamic’,worksverywell insweetdishes.Bayleavesarenotveryconsistent in flavoursostartwithsixandtastecarefully.

Put thebay leavesandwater intoa small saucepan.Bring to theboil andboilgentlyfor3minutes.Removethepanfromtheheat.Addthesugar.Stir,coverand leaveasideuntilcold.Stir in the remaining ingredients,coverandchill inthefridge.

FordetailedinstructionsonhowtoprepareaGranitaseepage71.

BayLeafIceCreamWehavecometothinkofbayleavesasflavouringforsavourydishesalone,butin Victorian times they were commonly used to flavour ‘cold forms’, such asblancmanges/cornflour moulds. The resulting ice cream is unusual, andunusuallygood,especiallywhenservedwithwarmpoachedfruitssuchaspears,or rhubarb, or dried fruit compotes. Accompany with crisp, almond waferbiscuitsortuiles(seepages278to279.)

Make the custard following the instructions for making Standard FrenchVanillaIceCream,substitutingthebayleavesforthevanillabean.

Leavethebayleavestoinfuseinthecustardthroughoutthecooking,coolingandchilling, removing them justprior to churningand freezing the ice cream.Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

JapaneseRedBeanIceCreamInJapanesecookingadzuki(orazuki)beans,boiled,mashedandsweetened,area base for many sweets and cakes from the traditional yokam, a jelliedsweetmeatservedwithtea, toamuchmoreWestern-basednewcomer,redbeanicecream.Servedasadessert,itisgenerallyavailableinJapanesehotelsandice-creamparlours,arecentimporttoJapan.Thesweetenedredbeanpastecanbemadeathome,buttotrythisicecreamforthefirsttimeitissimplertobuyacanof thereadycooked,sweetenedredbeans fromaJapanese foodshop.Thebrand we use is called Santa and the can reads, ‘Prepared red beans, ‘YudeAzuki’.’Mirin,averysweetricewine,canalsobeboughtfromJapanesefoodshops;

buy the type labelledhon-marin,meaningnaturallybrewed.Don’tbeputoff iftheresultlookslikefrozenMexicanrefriedbeans,theflavourisdelicious.

Emptythecontentsofthecanintoameasuringjuganduseagoodold-fashionedpotato masher to half-crush the beans. Stir in the remaining ingredients, thencoverandleavetochillinthefridge.Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).

Serve within 1 hour or, if frozen solid, allow 30 minutes in the fridge tosoftensufficientlyforserving.

BisquitIcesorBisquitTortoniBiscuiticeswereicestowhichbiscuit,cake,shortbreadandevenbreadcrumbs,toastedorplain,wereaddedduringthefinalstagesoffreezing,beforehardeningandstorage.HoweverBisquit/Biscuiticesaresomethingthathavepracticallydisappeared.Weare hoping that thesewill nowbe revived as they are simply delicious. The slight texture and

nuanceofflavourmakesforaveryinterestingicecream.Possibly, brown bread ice cream, which first appeared in Emy (1768), could be regarded as the

forerunner of Biscuit ice cream. Emy also has a recipe for ratafias biscuit ice cream. (For twovariationsofbrownbreadicecreamseepage106.)ItwasArthurSchwartz’sbook,NewYorkCityFoodthatsparkedourcuriosityonthewholesubject

ofBiscuitTortoni.Hundredsofhourslaterithasbecomeanobsession.SoundingatoncebothFrenchandItalian,itisinfactapeculiarlyNewYorkdessert.SchwartzhadtriedtofinditinNaplesbut,likeus,couldnotfinditinNaples,Rome,SicilyorinfactanywhereinItaly.So,wasthereaMrTortoni?Washeacheforrestaurateur?WhywasitcalledBisquit?Andwhyis

everyversion soverydifferent? Is therea ‘correct’or ‘original’ recipe?Andwhatabout thosedinkylittlepapercasesinwhichtheauthenticBisquitTortoniusedtobeserved?This became an irresistible area for research. Spend some time on the internet and you will get

dozensofrecipes,alldifferent.ManysitessendyoutoFannyFarmer1steditionin1918‘BiscuitTortoniinBoxes’beyondthis,referencestotherecipewerehardtofind.TheearliestrecipewehavefoundforBiscuitIcesisinMenonLeScienced’Maitred’Hotel,Confiseurin1760.BiscuitsdeGlace.WhenMenonmentionsBiscuitheisreferringtoamuffin-typebunwithacrisplysugaredtopwhich

hecallsglace.

‘Makesixbiscuitsinpapercase;whentheyaredonedelicatelyremovethecrisptops(glace)takingcarenottobreakthem,andkeeptheminthestovewrappedinanapkin.

Drythebiscuitcrumbsuntiltheycanbepoundeduntiltheyarepowderedlikesugar,whichyouthenpassthroughasieve--.’

Youthenmakeanicecreamaddingthecrumbsafteritischurned.Theicecreamisputbackintothepapercaseandthereserved‘glace’topputontopoftheBiscuiticecreamlikeahat.

‘--sothattheycanbeservedlikebiscuitsincases.’

Menon’s recipe seems to be the original biscuit recipe. There are no previous recipes for biscuit icecreamthatwehavebeenabletofind.SubsequentbooksthatmentionBiscuit icesarenotuncommon,butnoreferenceismadetothedistinctivepapercase.EscoffierinhismemoirsnotesthatatadinnerinaprivatesalonatLePetitMoulinRougeinParis

inJuly1874,GambettaentertainedThePrinceofWales(laterKingEdwardVII)todinnerwithanotherdiplomat.Escoffier is convinced that on this significantly historic occasion, the subject discussed was the

EntenteCordiale,signedlaterin1907.AndthedessertwasBiscuitGlacéTortoni.Sofar,wehavebeenunabletofindthisrecipeintheEscoffierFoundationLibraryinFrance.AlessandroFilippini’sbook,TheTable,in1889,hasrecipesforbothBisquitsGlacéswhichhaveto

be served ‘in squarepapercases’,butalsohasa recipe forBisquitTortoniwhichmustbe served in‘round fancypapercases, insteadofsquareones’.Hegoesso faras todescribea frame tohold thefilledpapercaseswhilefreezinginatuboficeandsalt.Here,thetrailwasdefinitelywarmingup,asFilippiniwaschefatthemostfamousrestaurantinNew

York,Delmonico’s.Thiswasoneofthetopjobsforachefas,foralmost100years,Delmonico’svariousrestaurantswereconsideredtobethebestinNewYork.

Now,fortheobsessional,itbecomesreallyinteresting.When Filippini later became the manager of the 5th Avenue restaurant a

certainCharlesRanhoferbecamethenewchefandwroteasubstantialbookTheEpicurian,publishedin1894.Areyoustillwithus?…Thereismoretocome.

ButwhatofTortoni?HewasaNeapolitanwho tookoveracafestartedbyamancalledJoliet inParis.Tortoniopenedin1804,andbecameoneofthemostfashionablecafesinParis.SituatedonBoulevarddes

Italiennes,itwasformanyyearsthecentreoffashionablecafesocietyinParis.Butwehavebeenunabletofind thedirect link fromTortonis toFilippini.So, theFilippini recipe is theclosestwehavecome to theoriginalTortonirecipe.

Andfinallytotheicecream.

BisquitIcesorBiscuitTortoniThe ice, with crumbledmacaroon on the top, has the typical, rich, hedonisticflavourof theVictorianperiod.And ifyouhavecome this far,dearreader,weurgeyoutomakethemacaroons, theyarequicklyandeasilymadeanduseupsomeoftheleftovereggwhites.The biscuit crumbs can be (in order of preference) Amaretti, ratafias,

shortbread, English digestive or even Graham® crackers and can be eitherincorporatedintheiceorsprinkledonthetop,orboth.It is primarily flavoured with Maraschino, a rather old-fashioned cherry

liqueur.Pleasedonotsubstitutethisforanyotherliqueurortheintegrityoftheicecreamislost.LuxardoMaraschinoisthebrandmostusuallyavailable.Traditionally the ice cream was served in a characteristic, pleated, paper

case.Servedtodayinindividualramekins,itwouldfairlyrepresenttheoriginal.

(Were those pleated paper cases the forerunner of the porcelain Frenchramekin?Anotherinterestinglineofresearch!)Biscuit ices are easily made and all you need is to add any amount up to

about250ml/1cup/8flozofcrumbstoeach1litre/4cups/32flozoficecream.Mix it in thoroughlywhen the ice is frozenenough to support the crumbsandstopthemfallingtothebaseofthecontainer.

VARIATION:theycanbesprinkledwithsweetbiscuitcrumbsbeforeserving.*

Inamediumsizeheatproofbowlcombinethesugarandeggyolks.Preferablyusinganelectrichandwhisk,beatuntilthemixtureispalerandformsafinefoam,about3minutes.

Bring the cream to boiling point, then, while whisking the sugar/egg yolkmixtureconstantly,pourintheheatedcream.Eitherpourintothetopofadoublesaucepan,orposition thebowl tositoverabasepancontainingabout1 in/2.5cmofsimmeringwater.Thebaseofthebowl,orpan,shouldnotbeincontactwiththewater.

Nowstirthecustardfrequentlywiththepansetoveralowtomoderateheatuntil themixture reaches 85 C/185F, or has thickened sufficiently to coat thebackofthespoon.Immediatelyremovethebowl(ortophalfofthepan)andsitit in an inch or two of cold water in the sink. Stir from time to time. Thiseffectively stops thecookingandspeedilycools thecustard.Topreventa skinforminginsertabutteredoroiledpieceofgreaseproofpapertositdirectlyontopofthemixture.Leavetocool,thenchillinthefridgeuntilreadytouse.

Whenready,stirintheMaraschinoandKirsch.Thenstillfreezeinthepapercases* and freeze overnight. These can usually be served directly from thefreezerasthealcoholstopstheicefreezingtoohard.

*The real enthusiast can follow the instructions to make the pleatedrectangularpapercase(picturepage289),asdescribedinRanhofer’sbook,orgotoUsefulAddressespage324fordetailsof theonlymakerwecanfind in theUSAwho still makes round pleated paper cases of the type in which BiscuitTortoniusedtobeserved.

BlackberryIceCreamBlackberryisaflavourthatisalltooeasytolose.Butinthislightandsimple,no-cookicecreamitcomesoverloudandclear.Helped,ithastobesaid,bytheaddition of Crème deMûre, which costs about the same as a cheap bottle ofwine from one of the large supermarket chains. But failing this, you will stillhaveawell-flavouredicecreamofanalmostfuchsiacolour.

Pickovertheblackberriescarefully,thentransferthemtoacolanderandsluicethemthoroughlywithcoldwater.Drainandturnoutontoadoublethicknessofkitchenpaper;spreadout theberriesandleavetodry.Nowput theminafoodprocessor or blender with the sugar and blend for about 1minute. Position anylon sieve over a bowl and strain the blackberry pulp, rubbing the last stagethrough thesieveuntilall that is leftare theseeds.Flavour thepureewith thestrained lemon juice and Crème deMûre. Taste, and add a littlemore lemonjuice,ifliked.Chillinthefridge.Whenready,addthecreamandeitherstillorstir freezeandstore (pages80 to81).Servewithin1hour or, if frozen solid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

BlackberrySorbetThedeepcolourof blackberry sorbetalways lookswonderful.Asblackberriesareonlyavailableforashorttimeeachyearitiswellworthfreezingthemeitherwhole or cooked in the proportion of fruit to sugar syrup given in the recipebelow.Thenyoucanquicklymakeablackberrysorbet,or,withtheadditionofsomewater,agranita.

Rinse the blackberries in cold water, drain, then spread out the berries on adouble layer of kitchen paper and leave until dry. Put into a non-reactivesaucepanwiththesugarsyrup,heattoboilingpointandsimmerfor2-3minutes.Allowtocoolforafewminutesthenpourintoafoodprocessororblenderandliquidise,thenstraintoremovethepips.Allowtocool,andthenaddCrèmedeMûre,andlemonjuicetotaste.Coverandchillinthefridge.Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror, if frozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

BlackberryGranita

Make according to the recipe for Blackberry Sorbet (see above) adding anadditional375ml/1½cups/12flozofwaterwiththeCrèmedeMûreandlemonjuice.Mixwell.FordetailedinstructionsonhowtoprepareaGranitaseepage71.

BlackcurrantIceCreamAlthoughasummerfruit,blackcurrantsseemcuriouslysuited towintereating.MaybethisisachildhoodassociationwithblackcurrantsyrupanditsvitaminC,whichwasusedtowardoffwintercolds.Blackcurrantsarefarbetteremployedin ice creamsand sorbets.Freezing someyourself for thewintermakes sense,especiallyasyoucannotguaranteetheywillbeineverysupermarketfreezer.Incidentally, freeze thewholeberries byallmeans, but try freezinga small

batchortwopureed.Puttheberriesthroughafinesieveormouli,ratherthanliquidising them,as crushed seedswill giveabitter flavour.Thepuree canbediluted and sweetened and served as is or used tomake ices or sauce for icecream.Butbecareful, the flavour ispowerfuland itmayneed some judiciousreiningin.

Iffresh,useaforktostriptheberriesfromtheirstalksintoacolanderorsieve.Sluice with cold water, drain and dry on kitchen paper. Put the preparedblackcurrants, sugar and water in a non-reactive saucepan. Simmer gently,covered,forabout5minutes,andthenputthroughanylonsievetoremovethepips.

TakethesievedblackcurrantpulpandmixwiththeStandardFrenchVanillaIceCream(seepage72).Checkthesweetnessandaddupto5Tbspofsugar,dependingon the tartness of theblackcurrants.Then chill in the fridge.Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1hour

or, if frozen solid, allow 30 minutes in the fridge to soften sufficiently forserving.

BlackcurrantSorbetwithMint

Prepare the blackcurrants as described in the recipe for Blackcurrant IceCream(seeopposite).Putinanon-reactivesaucepanwiththesyrupandwaterand simmer gently, covered, for about 5minutes. Cool a little before rubbingthroughanylonsievetoremovethepips.Addtherinsedanddriedminttothewarmblackcurrantpuree,coverandleavetocool.

Taste and, if necessary, allow themint to steep longerwhile chilling in thefridge.Removethemintsprigswhenthemintflavourisstrongenough;itshouldnotoverwhelm theblackcurrant flavour.When ready,eitherstillorstir freezeand store (pages 80 to 81). Serve within 1 hour or, if frozen solid, allow 30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

ANMOH’SVIEW(MedialOfficerofHealth)

InhisannualreportDrCSThompsonMOHofDeptfordnearLondonstates:-‘Theuseofsmallglassesbystreetvendorsorshopkeeperswhocannotordonotusehotwaterorcleantowelsto

cleansetheglasses,isapracticewhichcannotbecountenancedassuchareliabletobevehiclesforcontamination.

Theuseofperishablewafersshouldbemadecompulsory’.

THEICECREAMINDUSTRYMAGAZINE,JUNE1927

BlancmangeIceCreamInabookwherewegoalloutforthebestofpure,unalloyedicecream,this,toputitmildly,strikesadiscord.Itjusttastesmassivelypink.Itisajoy.Excellent

foradultswhoretain their innerchild,andallchildren.Sadlynot suitable forstirfreezing.

Makeuptwosachetsofstrawberryblancmangefollowingtheinstructionsonthebackoftheboxbutusingthequantitiesofmilkandsugarlistedabove.

Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the jam. Put an oiled sheet ofgreaseproof paper directly on top of themix to prevent a thick skin forming.Coolthenchill.Whenreadygivethepinkmixagoodstirtobreakitup.Therewillstillbesmalllumpsbutdonotworry,thesewillclearduringchurninginanice-creammachine.

Thenstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.*WeusedtheclassicPearceDuff’sstrawberryblancmangewith3×1pintsachetsinabox.

Blueberry&ButtermilkSherbetTooeasily,thefreshflavourofblueberriescanbelost,orcomesthroughtastinglike one of the poorer quality,mass-market fruit yoghurts, and these deliciousberriesdeserveabetterfate.

Sortthroughtheblueberries,discardinganydamagedfruitorstalks.Transfertheremainingfruittoacolander,sluicewithwater,drainthoroughlyandtransfertoamediumsized saucepan.Add the sugar syrup and bring to the boil. Remove

fromtheheat,coverandleavetocoolbeforetransferringtothefridgetochill.Whenready,mashthefruit(quiteliterally;useapotatomasher)toreduceit

to a very roughpulp, then stir in thebuttermilk and lemon juice.Then, eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror, if frozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

BrownBreadIceCreamSincewriting our first bookwe have researchedBrownBread IceCreamandfinditbothinEmy1768andBorella1770.ItisnotaVictorianinventionaswepreviouslythoughtandwrotethen.Wemustconfesstobeingsomewhatunderwhelmedbythisicecream,butdue

tothepressureofpublicopinion,keptontestingandeventuallycameupwithaveryrespectablerecipe,butusingtwotechniques.Method1isstraightforward,quickerandeasier tomake thanMethod2whichneedsmore timeandcarefulattention.Method1producesan icewithanuttybread flavour;Method2hasmuchmoreofacaramelflavourwiththepartiallymeltedsugarcombiningwiththe breadcrumbs and remaining in praline-like pieces in the ice cream.InterestinglyEmyusedpumpernickelbread.Tryitbyallmeans.

Method1.Spreadthecrumbsoutevenlyonalargebakingtrayandtoastunderthegrill, turningthematshort intervals so that they brown evenly.Measure the cream into a jug and stir in the cooled, brownedcrumbsandtheremainingingredients;coverandchillfor1hourtogivethecrumbsachancetosoften.

Method2.Combinethecrumbswithanequalquantity(135g/¾cup/4¾oz)ofDemerarasugar.Spreadoutevenlyonalargebakingtray.Preheatthegrillonmediumtohigh,andthenpositionthebakingtray7.5-10cm/3-4inchesfromtheheatsource.

Fromnowondonot leave thegrill but continue toastingand regularlyandevenlyre-spreadingthecrumbsuntilthemixtureisanoverallcolour–justonestoplighterthanmuscovadosugar.Asitbrownsthemixturewillgetstickierasthe sugar melts, but try to spread it as evenly as possible.When sufficiently

browned,removeandleavetocool.Whencool,poundthelumpsofcrumb/sugarmixuntilreducedtothesizeofDemerarasugarcrystals.Measurethecreamintoa jug and stir in the crushed crumb/sugarmix and the remaining ingredients,includingtheremainingDemerarasugar.Coverandtransfertothefridgetochillfor2hours.Thisgivesthecrumbmixachancetosoften,butleavesaminimalcrunch in the finished textureof the icecream.Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

SoftBrownSugarIceCreamwithPeanutBrittleThisicecreamisdeliciouswithorwithoutthebrittle.

Usingtheabovequantitiesofmilk,brownsugar,eggyolksandcream,prepareand cook a custard according to the method for making Standard FrenchVanillaIceCream(seepage72).

Continueuptothestagewherethechilledcustardiscombinedwiththecreamandaddthevanillaextract.Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreeze(page80).

Whiletheicecreamisfreezingcrushthepeanutbrittleinapestleandmortaruntilthepiecesareapproximatelythesizeofcoffeesugarcrystals.Whentheicecream is almost ready sprinkle the brittle into the ice cream as it churns,allowingjust2or3morerevolutionsbeforeswitchingoffthemachine,orfoldintothestill-frozenicecream.Thenstore(page81).

Serve within 1 hour or, if frozen solid, allow 30 minutes in the fridge tosoftensufficientlyforserving.

ButterIceCreamMenon(1740-1795)wasthefirstcookerybooktocontainalargeselectionofrecipeswithover45icesin it. His ices were, in many ways, more sophisticated than either Gillieres or Emy who were theforemostcontemporiesaroundthattime.ThesearetwoofthemostinterestingrecipesforicescontainingeggsfromMenon.

GlaceduBeurreButterIceCreamMenonhasaquiteremarkableicecreamreferredtoasaglacedubeurrewhichhas20eggyolksto1litre/4cups/32floz(36%fat)ofcream.Thisgivesapprox.32%fatand15%sugarinanicecreamwith54% solids. This glace was flavoured with orange flower water and was frozen in fromage moulds(cheese-shapedmoulds).Theeggyolksgiveabout25%ofthefatinthisice.Ittasteslikeacrossbetweenasuper-richcustard

andbutter.Hesuggeststhatyoueatitimmediatelyitismade,withaspoon,‘delamêmefaçonquelebeurrefrais’.

OeufsenGlaceFrozenEggThisiceisunlikeanythingcurrentlyavailabletoday.

‘Takesixeggsandhardboilthem;youneedtotaketheyolksandkeepthemwholeasroundballs;takesixotherfresheggswhichyoubreakintwowithgreatcaresothattheycanbeputtogetheragainwhole,theyshouldbemarked.Putthewhitesoftheseeggsintoaquarterlitreofcreamandbeattogetherandput in a silverdishandheaton the fire asyouwoulddo for “oeufsaumiroir ”glazedeggswithoutletting them takecolouron top.When theyaredonestrain throughasieve likea“marmalade” (fruitpuree);letthemcoolandthenaddalittlepowderedsugarandputtofreezelikeotherices;whentheyhaveset,andyouhaveworkedthemwell,taketheeggshellsyouputononesideandputalittleinonehalfand theyolk in themiddle,andcontrive tofill themas if theywerewhole, fitting theshellsoneagainsttheother.Wrapeachegginpaperandputinatincontainer(icecave)withice,asexplainedforicedpeaches,andleavethemuntilyouneedtoservethem.Theseeggsareakitchendish,butcanbeservedasdessert.’

Theresultisafrozenhard-boiledeggyolkwithafrozenmeringuesurroundingitintheoriginaleggshell.Thefrozen,hard-boiledyolktasteslikebutter.

ButtermilkGelatoA delightful fresh-tasting ice cream, compatible with many other ices in thisbook.Goodwithsorbetsandagreaticetohaveàlamodewithpies,tartsandsteamedorbakedsponges.

MakeaStandardVanillaGelatowitheggsbutexcludingthevanilla(page75)andsubstitutebuttermilkformilk.

Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

ButtermilkIceCreamA delightful, clean-tasting, fresh-flavoured ice cream with one disconcertingtrait;itseparatesifthefinishedcustardislefttostandbeforechurning.Ignorethis;itwillnotaffecttheicecreaminanyway.

Ina largeheatproofmixingbowlwhisk together theeggsand sugaruntilpaleandthickened.

Split the vanilla bean in half lengthwise and put it in a saucepanwith thecream.Thevanillabeanremainsinthecustarduntilitisreadytochurn.Bringtotheboilthenpourslowlyintothebowlcontainingthebeateneggsandsugarinathin stream, beating constantly. Transfer to a double saucepan or position thebowl over a pan of barely simmering water and continue to heat, stirringfrequently, until the custard reaches 85°C/185°F. Remove from the heat andlowerthetemperatureofthecustardquicklybyplungingthebaseofthepanor

bowlintocoldwater.Whenitfeelspositivelycold,removethebowl,coverandchillinthefridge,preferablyovernighttoallowtheflavourstodevelop.

Whenready,removethevanillabeananduseateaspoontoscrapethevanillaseeds from inside thepod; stir into thecustard followedby thebuttermilkandthelemonjuice.Theneitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin 1 hour or, if frozen solid, allow 30 minutes in the fridge to softensufficientlyforserving.

Buttermilk,Rum&SultanaIceCream

Combinetherumandsultanasinasmallsaucepanandbringtotheboil.Coverthe pan with a lid, remove from the heat and leave, preferably overnight, toallowthesultanastimetoabsorbtherum.

Whenready,stirintherumandrumsoakedsultanas,theneitherstillorstirfreezethenstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

CaramelIceCreamWiththeexceptionofdeep-fatfrying,caramelisthehottestandmostpotentiallyvolatile thing to deal with in the kitchen, so please take care. Never leavecarameltocook,alwayswatchitlikeahawkfromstarttofinish.Thedangerousstageinthisrecipeiswhenwaterisaddedtothemedium-brownliquidcaramel(about180°C/356°F).Removethepanfromtheheattheinstantthesugarreachesthisstage.Have

thewaterreadystandingby,andthehandandarmgraspingthepanwrappedinaprotectivecloth.Thenslowlyaddthewater,standingwellback.Therewillbeaconsiderable

noiseandfermentinthepan,butoncethissubsidestherestiseasyandtheresultisasuperblyflavouredicecream.

NOTE: For this recipe it is necessary to use really fresh cream. If less thanfresh,thecreamislikelytocurdlewhenmixedwiththeratheracidiccaramel.

Pour 60 g/⅓ cup/2 oz of the measured sugar into a small, heavy saucepan.Taking full account of how to deal with caramel (see opposite), place thesaucepanoveramoderateheat.Asthesugarbeginstoliquefyandbrownaroundtheedge,stironceortwicesothatthesugarcontinuestocarameliseevenly.Assoonasitisauniformmediumbrown(180°C/356°F),removethepanfromtheheatandslowlyaddthewater.Whenthebubblingsubsides,pourinthecream,stir and leave aside to allow the caramel time to dissolve completely in thecream,thenchill.

Meanwhile put half of the remaining sugar in a separate panwith themilkand split vanilla bean. Bring to just below boiling point then cover and leaveasidetoinfusefor30minutes.NowcombinetheeggyolkswiththeremainingsugarandfollowthemethodformakingStandardFrenchVanillaIceCream(seepage72).

Whenready,addthecarameltothecustardandeitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

CaviarorRedLumpfishRoeSavouryIceRedlumpfishroeisavailableinsmalljarsingoodsupermarketsorfishshops.

Chop the shallots very finely indeed, andmix themwith the sour cream in aglass bowl.Add the caviar or lumpfish roe, keeping back one teaspoonful forgarnish, then the lemon juiceand thevodka,andmixcarefully.Taste,andaddmorelemonjuiceifnecessary.Stillfreeze(seepage80)andstore(page81).Weadvisestillfreezingthisiceasitkeepstheroeintact.Serveonehourafteritisstill frozen. If frozen overnight, allow 20-30 minutes in the fridge to softenbefore serving. Can be made in portionsized moulds or a single mould andturned out and cut into slices and decoratedwith the teaspoonful of caviar orlumpfishroe.ServewithlemonwedgesandMelbatoast.Eatwithin24hoursofmaking.

CaipirinhaSorbet

Agreat summercocktail fromBrazil.MadewithCachaca* (pronounced kach-assa),asugarcanespirit.Thedrinkisdelicious,thesorbetdivine.Eatitonitsown from small glasses on a hot summer’s day or servewith a salad of freshpineapples,mangoes,strawberriesorpeaches.

PutthesugarsyrupandtheCachacainajugandaddthefreshlysqueezedandstrainedlimejuiceandthemeasuredwater.Chillthoroughlyinthefridge.

Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Becauseof

the alcohol content it will need freezing overnight. It can probably be serveddirectly from the freezer, if not allow about 10 minutes in the fridge beforeserving.*WeusePituCachaca.

**Limesvaryconsiderably.Onthebasisoflimesyielding1–2Tbspjuice,youwillneedbetween4and8limes.

ParmesanCheeseIceCreamAlvillannonfarsapere

Quantoèbuonoilcacioconlepere.‘Don’tletthepeasantstastehowgoodcheeseiswithpears.’

ITALIANPROVERB

We are indebted to our friend Ivan Day who alerted us to this recipe forParmesan Cheese Ice Cream in Joseph Bell’s Treatise on Confectionary (hisspelling)Newcastle,1817.BellwasformerlyconfectionertothePrinceofWales,later KingGeorge IV.We have since found a similar recipe in L’Art de BienFairedeGlacesD’Office,byEmy,1768.CheeseicecreamswerepopularinRegencyandVictoriantimes,but in this

dayandage the ideacomesassomethingofashock.Webegyou toputasideyour prejudices and try this, especially serving it with fresh ripe pears. Theresultwillconfoundanypreconceptionsasitisamostwonderfulicecreamwitharich,complexflavour.Use only Parmigiano-Reggiano, cheaper Parmesan cheeses are too chalky

andgranulartothedetrimentofthetextureoftheicecream.

Bringthecreamtotheboilwiththesugar,stirringconstantly,thenremovefromthe heat and add the grated Parmesan cheese, stirring until itmelts. Allow tocool.Thenscrapeintoafreezerbox,coverandfreezeovernight.

NOTE:Thisisathickicethatisunsuitableforchurning.

ParfaitauParmesan/MrsMarshall’sParmesanCheeseParfait

‘New,High-class,SeasonableandUseful’.SowroteMrsA.B.Marshallinherweeklymagazine,TheTable,in1895.Thisrecipewasoriginallyconceivedasasecond course dish or for a ball supper. My, those were the days. This is adelicious frozen cheese mousse. It has been stripped of all its trappings; theoriginalrecipehasaringmouldlinedinchaudfroidandaspicandwhenturnedout the centre filledwith balls of stifflywhipped cream flavouredwith pepper

and Parmesan. We have dispensed with all the aspic and extra cream andsuggest serving either in a single basin-shape mould, or in individual plainpuddingmoulds, ramekinsor thenew flexiblesiliconemoulds.Turnedoutandsurroundedwithasaladoffrisée,chicoryandradicchiowithamustarddressingitisaknockout.Incidentally you might wonder at the curious inclusion of Bovril. This is

today’s direct substitute for Liebig Company’s Extract of Meat used in theoriginalrecipewhichwasacommoningredientinVictoriantimes.

NOTE:Thisrecipecontainsraweggwhites.Ifyouareunsureaboutthesourceofyoureggsyoucanbuypasteurisedeggwhiteincartonsorsachets.

Bring300ml/1¼cups/½pintwatertotheboilinasmallsaucepan.Removethepanfromtheheatandstir in thestockpowderandBovrilandassoonas theyhavedissolvedaddthesheetsofgelatineandleaveuntilcold.Stir,tomakesureall the gelatine has dissolved then pour the mixture into a large bowl andrefrigerateuntiltheliquidisatthepointofsetting.

Havereadyasingle,oiled,1.2litre/5cup/2pintpuddingbasin,or6×200ml/⅞ cup/7 fl oz individual puddingmoulds or ramekins.Beat the creamuntil itholdsasoftshape.

Washanddrythewhisk.Nowwhiskthegelatinemixuntilitbecomesapale-colouredfinefoam.Againwashanddrythewhisk.Havetheeggwhitesreadyinacleangrease-freebowl.Whiskuntiltheyholdashapewhenthewhiskislifted

fromthebowl.Foldthewhiskedcream,gelatineandeggwhitestogethergently,finallyaddingthecheeses.

Taste and season with a squeeze of lemon juice, salt and freshly groundpepperandpourintothechosenmould(s).Freezeovernight.

Justbeforeservinghavereadythesalad-linedplates.Dipthemould(s)forafewsecondsintap-hotwater thenturnoutontotheplate(s).Dust themould(s)thinlywithparsley,thenpinkpeppercorns.Leavefor15minutesinthefridgetosoftenalittlebeforeserving.

SomeclassicMelbatoastwouldgowellwiththis.

IndividualCheesecakeIceCreamsThisrecipetakesadvantageofoneofthebiggestchangestohitthebakerytradeina long timeand that is theuseof flexiblebakeware.Herewehaveused thebrightorange,LeCreuset6-holeflexibleform;thesortofstandard,deepmuffinmould shape. The cream cheese ice cream is put into the base and almondcrumble pressed lightly on top. They are turned out, crumble base down, andservedaccompaniedbyastrawberryorraspberrysauceandafewfreshberries.If all this sounds too much of a fiddle, layer the ice cream and crumble inindividualservingglasses,toppedwiththeberriesandsauce.

Measure themilkandwhippingcream intoameasuring jug thenwhisk in themilkpowder.Transfertoasmallsaucepanandbringtojustbelowboilingpoint.

Meanwhilecombinetheeggyolksandsugarinabowlandwhiskforabout5minutes until pale and thickened. Pour the milk into the egg yolk mixture,whisking all thewhile then return this to the rinsed-outpan.Cookover a lowheatuntil themixture reaches85°C/185°F.Once thecustardhascooled, returnthecustardtotherinsed-outjug;cover,coolthenchilluntilreadytochurn.

Just before churningpour the custard into a foodprocessor.Add the creamcheese, vanilla, salt and lemon juice. Pulse until smooth andwellmixed theneitherstillorstirfreeze(seepage80).

Whentheicecreamissoftlyfrozen,scoopintotheflexi-trayholestowithinabout1cmofthetops.Quicklylayafreezerfilmsheetoverthetopandputinthefreezerfor2hours.Remove,uncoverandlightlypressalayerofcrumbleontop of each ‘cheesecake’. Recover and return to the freezer. They will needanother3hoursbeforetheyarereadytoturnoutandserve.

MorelloCherryIceCreamIf thereisamarketforboththesweetandsourvarietiesofgooseberry,whyisthere no market for the sour cherries? In Britain, in or out of season, sweetdessert cherries are everywhere but never an acid cooking cherry to be had;whichisagreatshame,becausethecookedflavourofthesefaroutdoesthatofsweetdessertcherries,freshorcooked.Sobottledsourcherriesithastobe,andpreferablypittedtosavetime,messandsanity.Trytobuyfromanoutletthathasa good turnover as sometimes jars are left a long time and the cherries turnmushy.

MakeexactlyaccordingtothemethodforStandardFrenchVanillaIceCream(page72),substitutingplaincreamformilkandsourcreamforwhipping/heavycream.Chillcovered.

When ready, whip the sour cream and add to the custard. Then add thedrainedandpittedcherries.Stillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin 1 hour or, if frozen solid, allow 30 minutes in the fridge to softensufficientlyforserving.

CrèmedeMarronsIceCream

Because the chestnut season is so short and peeling fresh chestnuts is such athankless task,we have included only recipes using canned crèmedemarrons(chestnut spread). We find that Clément Faugier® crème de marrons worksperfectlyforthisicecream.ServewithPear IceCream (see page 201) orChineseWalnut Brittle Ice

Cream(seepage238).

Make according to the recipe forStandardFrenchVanilla IceCream (page72)excludingthevanillabean.

Havethecrèmedemarronsreadyinaseparatemediumsizedbowl.Graduallystir in the hot custard, a little at a time, until it is all smoothly incorporated.Leavetocooltoroomtemperature,thencoverandtransfertothefridgetochill.

Whenready,addthecream,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore (pages80 to81). Servewithin 1 hour or, if frozen solid, allow 30minutes in the fridge tosoftensufficientlyforserving.

IcedMontBlancThis isa slightlydifferent takeon theclassicFrenchMontBlanc,which isanimpressive product of the pâtissier’s art. The original involves makingmeringues, boiling, peeling, cooking, sieving and piping chestnut puree, thentoppingthewholelotwithwhippedcreamandgratedchocolate.Wehavebrazenlycheatedtocomeupwithagood,easy,frozen,dinnerparty

dessert.Thiswillservesixtoeightslices.Toservemorepeopleitisbesttomake2×

20cm/8 inchrounds rather thanone largerone.One large roundwould thawunevenly.

Toserve:SharpChocolateSauce(page268)andalittlegratedchocolateLinea20cm/8inchspringformpanwithclingfilmsoitcovers thebaseand

allthewayupthesides.Useyourhandstocrumblethemeringuecoarselyintoroughlyhazelnut-size

piecesandhavereadyinabowl.Break thechocolatebar intosquaresanddroponto thewhirlingbladesofa

foodprocessor.Continuetoprocessuntilthechocolateisreducedtothesizeofwheatgrainsthenpourintothebowlwiththecrumbledmeringue.

Ina largemixingbowlbeathalf thecreamuntil just stiff enough toholdashape. Now fold in yoghurt, followed by the meringue and half the gratedchocolate.Spreadthemixtureinthepreparedtin.

Empty the sweetened chestnut puree into a small bowl and stir in the rumbefore spreading it over the surface of themix in the tin. Tomarble the twomixtures,insertthepointofaknifealmosttothebaseofthespringformpananddrawaknifebackwardsandforwardsacrossthefullcircle;turnthecaketinandrepeat the manoeuvre at roughly a 90 degree angle. Put a sheet of clingfilmdirectlyontothesurfaceofthemixturetosealitandstopicecrystals forming.Make sure the seal extends right up to and around the edge. Freeze for aminimumof4hours.

Aboutanhourbeforeyouarereadytoserve,releasethedessertfromthecaketinandremovetheclingfilmandplaceonaservingplate.Putthisinthefridgewhile you liquidise the whole chestnuts with the sugar syrup until perfectlysmooth.Nowwhisk the rest of the creamuntil stiff enough to hold its shape.

Transferthemixintoapipingbagfittedwitha3mm/⅛inchplainnozzle.Nowtake heart, this next stage requires no expertise. Pipe single strands of pureearoundtheedgeofthefrozenpuddinginarandommannergraduallybuildingupabordersimilar toabird’snest.Continueuntilall thechestnutpastehasbeenusedthenpilethewhippedcreaminthecentreanddustthewholelotwiththeremaininggratedchocolate.

Replaceinthefridgewhilstthemainmealisserved.Itshouldbestillslightlyfrozenwhenserved,accompaniedbythechocolatesauce.

ChocolateGelatoThis is a rich chocolate gelato with what we think is about the minimumacceptableamountofsugar.Taste,alwaystaste,andifyouthinkitneedstobesweeteraddsugar1tablespoonatatime.Arich,cleanchocolateflavourthatisnotmaskedbyaddingcream.

Inasmallbowlcombinethecocoapowderandhalfthesugar.Pourinenoughofthemeasuredmilktoformathinpaste.

Inaseparatebowlbeattogethertheeggyolksandtheremainingsugaruntilpaleyellow.Setaside.

Nowbringtherestofthemilktoaboilthenaddthehotmilktothecocoaandsugar blend, whisking all the while, before returning the blend to the pan.Workingwiththepanoveraheatdiffusermatbringthecocoamixtureslowlytosimmering point. Take it slowly and stir all the time otherwise the blendmaycatchon thepan.Simmergently for6minutes.This isvital togetridof thepowderytasteofthecocoa.

Pour thecocoa, sugarandmilkblend, into theeggyolkandsugarmixture,veryslowly,whiskingbrisklyallthetime.Whenmixed,returnthemixturetothe

panandthepanto thediffusermat.Stirandbringthemixtoa temperatureof85°C/185°F. Without a thermometer: to judge if the custard has thickenedsufficiently,removethespoonandtilt thebackof it towardsyou.Lookfirstattheway the sauce coats the spoon. If it forms only a thin film, try drawing ahorizontal lineacross thebackof thespoon.Thisshouldholdaclearshape. Ifnot, continue cooking the custard until it coats the back of the spoon morethicklyandholdsaclearline.

Removefromtheheatandimmediatelyplungethebaseofthepanintoafewinchesofcoldwaterforacoupleofminutestostopthetemperaturerising.

Nowbreak thechocolate intosmallpiecesandwhisk into thehotchocolatemixuntilcompletelydissolved.Oncethecustardhascooled,coverandchillinthefridge.

Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

EverydayChocolateIceCreamThis Philadelphia, no-cook style ice cream is ideal for children, for everydayuse,andformixingwithotheringredientsforsayRockyRoad(seepage130)orChocolateandFreshMintIceCream (seepage128). It canalsobeused forChocolate Ice Cream with Rosemary (see page 129), Chocolate and SpiceBiscuit Ice Cream (see page 129),Chocolate and Hazelnut Ice Cream (seepage130),ChocolateBrownieIceCream(seepage129)andChocolateMalted

IceCream(seepage130).

Therearetwowaysofcookingthecocoamixture.Thefirstmethodtakesashortwhileandneedsconstantattention.Theothertakesalotlongerandneedsverylittle attention. Inboth techniques the essential thing is to cook the cocoamixsufficientlytogetridofanytraceofrawpowderiness.

So, either put the cocoa, sugar, condensed milk and ordinary milk in asaucepan,bringtotheboilthensimmergentlyfor5minutes,stirringconstantly.

Or,useadoublesaucepan,combinethesameingredientsinthetophalfofthepan,bring to theboiloverdirectheat,stirringconstantly, then transfer tocookover simmeringwater.Leave it tocook for30minutes, stirringonceor twice.Whenthecocoamixhascookedtransferthepantositincoldwaterinordertocoolitquickly.

Whenready,addthewhippingcreamandthevanillaextractandeitherstillorstir freezeandstore (pages80 to81).Servewithin1hour or, if frozen solid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

RichChocolateIceCreamThisisagoodstraightforwardchocolateicecreamthatcanbeusedforallsortsofoccasions.NotasrichastheUltimateChocolateIceCream(seepage120),butidealforordinaryoccasionsandformakingbombes.

Inasmallbowlcombinethecocoapowderandhalfthesugar.Pourinsufficientof themeasuredmilk toforma thinpasteandbring therestof themilk to theboil.Pourthehotmilkontotheblend,whiskingallthewhile,thenimmediatelyreturn themixture to thepan.Now,with thepanpositionedonaheat-diffusermat, bring the cocoa mixture slowly to simmering point, stirring constantly.Onceitreachessimmeringpoint,continuetocookgently,stirring,for6minutes.Thisstageisveryimportant,asthelongslowcookingensuresall thepowderyflavour of the cocoa is cooked out. (We have lost count of the ‘reputable’chocolateicecreamswehavetastedwherearaw,powderytasteisunpleasantlyprominent.) So take it slowly, and keep stirring, because the cocoa blendwillcatchon the base of the pan themoment your attentionwanders.Remove thepanfromtheheatandstirinthechoppedchocolate.

Inaseparatebowlbeattogethertheeggyolksandremainingsugaruntilpale.Pour in thechocolatemixture,beatingvigorously, then immediately return themixturetothepan.Againworkingwiththesaucepanonaheat-diffusermat,heatslowly,stirringuntilthetemperaturereaches85°C/185°F.

Removethepanfromtheheat.Addthevanillaextractandsitthebaseofthepaninafewinchesofcoldwater,untilthemixtureiscold.Strain(theremaybebitsinit),coverandchillinthefridge.

Whenready,stirinthecreamandeitherstillorstirfreezeandstore (pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

TheUltimateChocolateIceCreamBerthillon,onL’IleSaintLouisinParis,makesthebestcommerciallyproducedchocolate ice cream we have ever tasted. This started us on a quest for theultimatechocolateicecreamandthisisit.

FollowthemethodforRichChocolateIceCream(page118)butaddnotonlythe vanilla extract, but also the instant coffee granules and sugar syrup justbeforethemixtureiscooledinacoldwaterbath.

ContinuewiththemethodgivenforEverydayChocolateIceCream (page118)tocompletethemaking,chillingandfreezing.Servethisonitsown.Forgetthecalories,justenjoytheexperience.

VARIATION: You may care to add a teaspoon of rum to it, if you like thesuggestionofalcoholinyourchocolate.

ChocolateParfaitParfaitsproperly shouldbe flavouredwithcoffeeoralcohol. If youstray fromtheseflavours,youarelikelytoendupwithalessthanperfectparfait.Butweknowthatmostpeoplelovechocolate,sohereisourversion.Althoughrichandslightly chewy, this has a light, clean flavour with none of the heaviness youusuallygetwithchocolateicecreams.

Inaheavy-basedsaucepancombine thesugar syrupandsievedcocoapowder.

Bringslowlytotheboil,stirringfrequentlytomakesurethatitdoesnotcatch.Then, simmer gently for 5 minutes. Alternatively, using a double saucepan,combine thesame ingredients in the tophalfof thepan,bring to theboiloverdirectheat,stirringconstantly,thentransfertocookoversimmeringwaterinthebaseofthepan.Leavetocookfor30minutes,stirringonceortwice.

Removefromtheheatandaddthechoppedchocolate,stirringwelltoensureitiscompletelymelted.Allowtocoolto35-40°C/95-104°F(aroundbloodheat).ThenproceedexactlyaccordingtothemethodforParfaits(seepages71to72).

ChocolateSherbetThis chocolate sherbet is very rich and has a strong chocolate flavour.Chocoholicsloveitasitcontainsnocreamandsohaslesscholesterolandfewercaloriesthanicecream.

Inabowlmixtogetherthecocoaandsugar.Thengraduallystirinsufficientofthemeasuredmilktogiveasmooth,thinpaste.Bringtherestofthemilktotheboilandpour into thecocoablend,whiskingall thewhile. Immediately returnthemixturetothepanandputthepanonaheat-diffusermat.Bringtotheboilover a gentle heat, and then continue to simmer gently for about 6 minutes,stirringall thewhile.Remove thepan from theheat, stir in thevanilla extractandsalt.Thencool themixturequicklybysitting thebaseof thepan ina fewinchesofcoldwater.Coverandchillinthefridge.

Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

Serveonitsownorwithslicedbananas,orwithRaspberryIceCream(seepage214).

SIGNINTHEWINDOWATBRIGAND’SMILKBARANDSODAFOUNTAININHIGHHOLBORNLONDONWC1

‘OuricecreamsodasAreSoda-liciious’

THEICECREAMINDUSTRYMAGAZINE,SEPTEMBER1940

Terry’sChocolateOrangeIceCreamTerry’s of York originally launched a chocolate apple in 1926. This was sopopularthatin1931theyfolloweditwithachocolateorange.HoweverduringtheSecondWorldWartheywereunable toget the ingredients formanufactureand it was not until 1949 that production started again. Then the chocolateapplewaswithdrawn in 1954 and in 1979 a chocolate lemonwas tried for ashort time. However it is the chocolate orange that has proved to be theenduringsuccess.TheTerryfamilywereQuakers,asweremostoftheownersofbigchocolate

companies, includingFryandCadbury.Theyweredriven intobusinessby theabsurd Victorian laws in England that would not allow Quakers to join theprofessions.Terry’sarenowownedbyKraftFoods.™Alas,aswewrite,theTerry’sfactory

is closing in York and the chocolate orange production being moved tosomewhereintheEU.

Whisktheeggyolkslightlyinabasinwithhalfofthemeasuredmilk.In the top half of a double saucepan, or a heatproof bowl, combine the

remainingmilkandchocolatesegments.Heatoverbarelysimmeringwateruntilthechocolatehasmeltedthenpouritintotheeggandmilkmixturewhiskingallthe time.Return themixture to thedoublesaucepanororiginalbowl,andheatand stir over simmering water until it thickens and reaches 85°C/185°F.

Immediatelycoolthecustardbyplungingthecontainerintoabowlofcoldwaterandleave,stirringoccasionally,untilcool.Coverthesurfacedirectlywithoiledgreaseproofpapertoavoidaskinformingthenleaveinthefridgeuntilchilled.

Whenready,stirinthecreamandeitherstillorstirfreezeandstore (pages80to81).

Serve within 1 hour or, if frozen solid, allow 30 minutes in the fridge tosoftensufficientlyforserving.

‘FRRRRRRROZEN’HotChocolateSerendipity3isaNewYorkinstitutionandthisrecipeisthestarattractionoftheamazing, legendary cafe-ice-cream parlour. It is situated on the East side ofManhattanat 225East 60thStreet between2ndand3rdAvenues.Founded in1954,itisstillrunbyStephenBruce,oneoftheoriginalfounders.Toswingby

SerendipityisamustonanyvisittoNewYork.Openfromlunchtimetomidnightmostdaysbutuntil1.00amonFridaysand2.00amonSaturdays,itisthehauntoftherich,famousandallice-creamlovers,butyoumustbepreparedtoqueue.They make one of the biggest banana splits in the world, The OutrageousBananaSplit,andhaveamenuofovertwentytrulyexoticice-creamrecipes.The recipe for the Frozen Hot Chocolate is a closely guarded secret. All

enquiries are usually fobbed off with hints of elaborate and lengthypreparations.EvenJackieKennedycouldnotgettherecipewhenshewantedtoserveitattheWhiteHouse.ButitisnowpossibletogetafrozenHotChocolatemix directly from Serendipity in packets, or by the case for real addicts, (seeUsefulAddressespage324).WehavealwaysbeenintriguedwiththisdeliciousiceandStephenhasverykindlyagreedtoletusincludehisrecipe.

Allforyouor2portionsmaximum!Chopthechocolateintosmallpiecesandputitinaheavysaucepanorinthe

topofadoubleboiler.Stiroccasionallyuntilmelted.Addthehotchocolatemixandsugar,stirringoccasionallyuntilblended.

Remove from theheatandslowlyadd125ml/½cup/4 flozmilk,andstiruntilsmooth.Cooltoroomtemperature.

Inablender,placetheremainingmilk,thechocolatemixandtheice.Blendathighspeed***untilsmoothandtheconsistencyofafrozendaiquiri.

Pourintoagiantgobletandtopwithwhippedcreamandchocolateshavings.*Therearenumerousvarietiesyoucantrywiththechocolate,weuseLindt,85%cocoasolids,chocolateandaddanextra2Tbspofsugar.

**WeuseCadbury®Highlightsinstant,sweetened,darkchocolate,hotchocolatemix.

***Wefindthatblendinginadomesticblenderonhalfspeedinitially,andthenonfullspeedworksbest.

StracciatellaGelatoStracciatella (literalmeaning ‘little rags’)was originally the namegiven to ahotbrothintowhichbeateneggsandParmesancheesearestirred.Theactionofstirringandtheheatofthesoupcausestheeggtocoagulateintobitsliketornpaperorlittlerags.Quitehoworwhyorwhenitcamealsotomeanachocolate-speckledicecreamwehavebeenunabletodiscover;theconceptof‘littlerags’seemstobestretchingit.Howeverifyoucanbeartouseapotatopeeleralongtheedgeofachocolatebartoobtainthecurlsitmightcomeclosertothenameratherthantheeasiermethodwehavesuggestedintherecipe.Agoodcandidateforservinginice-creamcones.

Coarsegratingchocolatebyhandisamiserablymessybusiness.Sowesuggestyouchillthechocolateinthefridgeandwhenreadyputthechocolateintoafoodprocessorwiththebladewhirlingandpulseuntilitisintinypieces.Setasideinthefridge.

Using the milk, eggs and sugar, make, chill and freeze the ice creamaccording to the instructions formaking ItalianGelato using eggs (see page75).

When ready, either still or stir freeze (page 80) and at the end of the stillfreezingorchurningprocessaddthegratedchocolateandcontinuetochurnforafewsecondsuntil thegratedchocolate is evenlymixed.Thenstore (page 81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

BicerinGelatoTorino’s traditional drink (pronounced beech-eh-reen) is a mixture of coffee,chocolate and hot milk. According to Matt Kramer in his wonderful book APassion for Piedmont (William Morrow and Company, New York, 1997) thenamecomesfromthePiedmonteseword,bicerin,meaningpiccolobicchiereorlittleglass.Thedrinkisservedinclearglassinsertedinametalholdertosaveburningthedrinkers’fingers.

ForItalians,bicerin,likecappucino,isonlyappropriateformorningdrinkingandwhatawonderfulwaytostarttheday.Wespeakfrompersonalexperience;thisgelatowasconceivedsippingbicerinin theCaffèConfetteriaalBicerin inthePiazzadellaConsolata inTorino.Asa feminist aside, it is interesting thatsince it opened in 1736, the cafe has been owned and operated by women.According to Fred Plotkin in Italy for the Gourmet Traveller (Kyle Cathie,London 1997) traditionally only men frequented cafes, however because thiscafewasoppositetheSanturiodellaConsolataandunderfemalemanagementitwasaplacewherewomenfelt theycouldgoforcoffeeaftercommunionat the

Basilicaacrossthepiazza.

*LindtExcellenceDarkchocolate,70%cocoa,wefindtobethebest.

Combine theespressocoffeewith themilk, thenmakeexactlyaccording totheItalianGelatorecipeonpage75.

Whenthecoffeecustardhasthickenedremovefromtheheatandbeatinthechopped chocolate until completely melted. Cover the surface with an oiledpiece of greaseproof paper in direct contact with the custard to avoid a skinformingandleavetocool.Chillinthefridge.

Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

BurntChocolateGelatoThisrecipeisdefinitelynotforthefainthearted.Itisextraordinary.Itrequires,as the title suggests, burning chocolate which generates copious amounts ofsmoke.Soifyoudonothaveakitchenwithaverygoodindustrial-typeextractorsystem,wesuggestyou‘burn’thechocolateonabarbecueoutside.The complex chocolate flavour of the ice cream was a hit with our most

trusted testers who all said it was well worth the effort – just warn theneighbours.

MaketheStandardItalianGelato(page75)andchill.Youmustuseachocolatewithalowcocoasolidcontentandthereforealotof

fatinit.Thetwochocolatesaboveworkwellwiththisrecipe.Itwillnotworkwithhighcocoasolidchocolates.

Break the chocolate into small pieces, 1 cm/½ inch and put them into aheavy-basedpan.Placethepanoveramediumflameandcookthechocolateforabout 1 minute then stir. Be prepared as it will produce clouds of smoke.Continueforaboutanother5minutesstirringthechocolateonceperminuteuntilitiscompletelycharred.

Remove from the heat and allow to cool for about 10 minutes, and thenslowly, stirringconstantly, add theburnedchocolate to thegelato custardmix.Coverandallowtoinfusefor30minutes.Sievetoremovelargepiecesofburntchocolateandthenchillintherefrigerator.Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeand store (pages 80 to 81). Serve within 1 hour or, if frozen solid, allow 30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

Nutella®Gelato

Nutella®, a spread made mainly from chocolate and toasted hazelnuts, wasinventedaftertheSecondWorldWarbyPietroFerraro,founderoftheFerrarocompanyinAlbainPiedmont,rightinthecentreofthehazelnut-growingareaofItaly.ItwasfirstmadecommerciallyinItalyin1947.NotimportedintotheUSAuntil1983it isnowthelargestsellingchocolatespreadin theworld.Nutella®claimsthattheynowoutselltheentireworldpeanutbuttermarket.Havingseenthe5kilojarsonsaleinRomeoverChristmaswecanbelievethat.Nutella®isnowmadeintheUnitedStatesbuttheflavourhasbeenmodified

towhat they thinkbetter suits theAmerican taste.TheAmericaneditionhasadistinctlypeanutflavour.Ourverdict?TrytogettheoriginalproductproducedinItaly.

MakeaccordingtotheinstructionsforGelatomadewitheggsonpage75,butaddtheNutella®tothebeateneggyolksandsugarbeforeaddingthemilk.

Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

Bestservedonitsown.

Chocolate&FreshMintIceCreamWhydosomanyrecipesforchocolateandminticecreamcontainmintessencewhenfreshmintiswidelyavailableall-year-roundandgivesamuchbetter,moresubtle,roundedflavour?Theintensityofthemintwillvarythough,accordingtovarietyandseason.Justtastethemixcarefullyatintervals,leavingtheminttoinfuseinthemixalittlelongerifyouthinkitcouldbestronger.

Make up and simmer the chocolate mixture according to the recipe forEveryday Chocolate Ice Cream (see page 118). Whilst it simmers, quicklyrinseanddry themint.Bruise the sprigswitha rollingpin,and thenput themintoameasuringjug.

Assoonasthechocolatemixturehascooked,pouritontothemintinthejug.Leavetocool,thencoverandchillovernightinthefridge.Keeptasting,andassoon as you have a good positive flavour (bearing in mind that you will beaddingthecream),removethemint.Whenready,addthewhippingcream(butnotthevanillaextract)andeitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80 to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoften

sufficientlyforserving.

ChocolateIceCreamwithRosemaryTheinspiration for thiscombinationoriginated fromadessertrecipebyDavidWilsonofthePeatInn,Fife,inScotland.Iftheideaofcombiningchocolateandrosemarywasallhisown,themanislittleshortofagenius;thecombinationisexcellent.

MakeupexactlyastherecipeforChocolateandMintbutsubstituterosemaryforthemint.

Chocoalte&SpiceBiscuitIceCreamItcouldbeadeterrenttofindthatthebiscuitsneedbakingbeforeyoumaketheicecream.However,sincethereisnothingonthemarketwhichisremotelyliketheflavourofthesebiscuits,andthecombinationofspiceswiththechocolateicecream is so good, we just had to include it. We particularly liked the crispconsistencythatthebiscuitsretainintheicecream.

FollowtherecipeforEverydayChocolateIceCream(seepage118)uptothestagewheretheicecreamhasjustcompletedchurning.Asitistransferredtotheplasticfreezerboxes,sprinkleinthecrumbledbiscuits.Stirbrieflytodistributethe pieces of biscuit evenly throughout the ice cream. Then cover and store(page81).

ChocolateBrownieIceCreamMost people have their own favourite chocolate brownie recipe, but fudgy orcakey it does not matter, all varieties seem to work in this ice cream – evenpacket-mix brownies. Pecans, walnuts, hazelnuts and salted peanuts can beaddedtothebrowniemix,butcoconutgetsadefinitethumbsdown.

FollowtherecipeforEverydayChocolateIceCream(seepage118)uptothestagewheretheicecreamhasjustcompletedchurning.Asitistransferredtotheplasticfreezerboxes,sprinkleinthedicedbrownies.Stirbrieflytodistributethepiecesofbrownieevenlythroughouttheicecream.

DUCEBANSICECREAMIcecream,previouslyallowedinItalyononlytwodaysaweek,hasnowbeenprohibitedaltogether.TheannouncementwasmadeontheRomewirelessinamannerthatsuggestedthatthelossoficecreamwasreallyacomforttotheItalians,asalsowerethelossofpastries,whichwerebanned

simultaneously.THEIceCREAMINDUSTRYMAGAZINE,DECEMBER1940

NOTE:IcecreamwasnotbannedinEnglanduntiloctober1942

Chocolate&HazelnutIceCreamWehavetriedothernutsincombinationwithchocolateicecreambutnoneareassuccessfulashazelnuts.

FollowtherecipeforEverydayChocolateIceCream(seepage118)uptothestagewhere the ice cream is just about ready, at this point, add thehazelnuts.Leave themachine inmotionorstirbyhandjust longenoughtodistribute thenutsevenly.Thenstore(page81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

ChocolateMaltedIceCreamFor lovers of malted milk shakes, malted milk ice creams are a real taste ofparadise. Malted milk is sold under a number of brand names, but we havealwaysusedHorlicks®.

Follow the recipe for Everyday Chocolate Ice Cream (see page 118). Justbeforechurningputthemixtureinaliquidiserandaddthemaltedmilkpowder.Liquidiseforabout30seconds.

Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

RockyRoadIn1929theDreyer’s®GrandIceCreamCompanyinOakland,California,madehistorywhen itsowner,WilliamA.Dreyer,andpartnerJosephEdy firstaddedtoasted almonds and marshmallows to a batch of chocolate ice cream. Itappealed to the nation’s taste to such an extent that today it is still one ofAmerica’sbest-sellingflavours.The partners certainly had the makings of a good team. Joseph Edy, who

ownedacandystorewhichalsosoldicecream,hadproducedaverysuccessfulRocky Road candy bar, a lumpy mixture of chocolate, almonds andmarshmallows. William Dreyer, erstwhile Professor of Advanced Ice CreamManufacturingattheUniversityofCaliforniainDavis,notedthepopularityof

thebarandwithsimplegeniussubstitutedchocolateicecreamasavehicleforthe nuts and marshmallows. (Purists, please note: the original recipe did notcontainchocolatechips!)The tricky bit is the sticky bit: cutting up the marshmallows. This was a

considerable labour forWilliamDreyer until a supplier took pity on him anddeveloped miniature marshmallows. Unfortunately they are hard to find inBritain. In order to keep your sanitywhen cutting up the conventionally sizedmarshmallows, try regularly dipping the scissors into hot water and snippingthemintoeight.

MakeupthechocolatemixforEverydayChocolateIceCream(seepage118)andleavetochillinthefridge.

Meanwhile brown the almonds by roasting them on a baking tray in apreheatedoven,180°C/350°F/GasMark4,forabout8minutes.Theinstantyoucansmelltheminthekitchentheyareready.Removefromtheovenandleavetocoolbeforechoppingtothesizeofsaltcrystals.Snipeachmarshmallowinto8asdescribedintheintroductionabove.

Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreeze(page80)thechocolatemix.Astheicecreamreachesthefinalstageoffreezingaddthenuts,thenthemarshmallowbitsandstircarefullybyhandorallowtheicecreamthreeorfourmorerevolutionsbefore stopping themachine.Then store (page81). Servewithin 1 hour or, iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

MarsBar®IceCream

ThisisouranswertothephenomenonoftheMars®BarIceCream.Thesuccessof thisproduct launched in the1990srocked theBritish ice-cream industrybytaking10%ofthemarketinthefirst22months–anunprecedentedachievement.Suchwasitssuccessthatitpromptedmanufacturerstodevelopawholerangeoficesbasedondifferentcandybars.AlthoughtheMars®BarIceCreamisreadily

available,wethinkourversionissuperior.ServewithChocolateFudge(seepage268)orButterscotchSauce(seepage

267)

ChopeachMars®/SnickersTMbarinfourandputinasaucepanwiththemilk.Heatgently,stirringfrequently,untilallbutafewunmeltedbitsremain.Donotworryabouttheseastheywilldisappearinthechurningactionoftheice-creammachine.Remove the pan from the heat and transfer to sit in a few inches ofcoldwatertocoolthemixturequickly.

When ready, add the chilled cream and either still or stir freeze and store(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

MARS®istheregisteredtrademarkofMarsLtd.,England.

Chocolate&PortGelatoThis ice cream is based on an early 18th century chocolate drink that weproduced for an evening to celebrate John Harrison (the inventor of thechronometer). IvanDayhadrecommended therecipe forachocolateandportdrinkfromWilliamSalmon’s,TheFamilyDictionary1710.Wethoughtitwassodelicious that itwouldmakeawonderfulgelato.This is themostsophisticatedrich chocolate flavour youwill ever taste: Strictly for adults only.Don't eventhinkaboutthecalories,justenjoyit.

Makethecustardusingtheeggs,sugarandmilkoverdirectheat(page75),orinamicrowave(page78).

Whenthecustardismade,immediatelyaddthechocolate,whiskinginabout12squaresatatime,whilethemixtureisstillhot.Makesurethatthechocolateiscompletelymeltedandevenlymixedbeforecoolingthepaninabasinofcoldwater.Chillthoroughly;preferablyovernightinthefridge.

Onnoaccountaddtheportwhile thecustard iswarmorthechocolatewillbecomeverygranularandruinthetextureofthegelato.

When ready, add the port andwhisk tomix briefly then either still or stirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Allowtohardeninthefreezerforatleast24hours.Thisicecreamisreadytoservedirectlyfromthefreezerduetothehighalcoholcontent.

Serveinexquisitesmallportionsinshotglasses.*Ifusing85%cocoasolidchocolate,reducethesugarintherecipebyabout30grams,butalwaystastetoconfirm the sweetness. If using 70% cocoa solid chocolate, reduce the sugar in the recipe by about 50grams,butalwaystastetoconfirmthesweetness.

**WeuseCroftsIndulgencePortbutanyqualityredportwilldo.Itisnotnecessarytouseareallygoodvintageport,keepthatfordrinking.

Chocolate&PedroXimenezSherryGelatoPedroXimenez is the ‘creamofcreamsherries’andawonderfuldessertwine.This rich sweetwinedrizzledovera vanilla ice cream is simplydeliciousandcantransformevenanordinarycommercialicecreamintosomethingspecial.

Using the above ingredientsmake theChocolate and Sherry gelato exactly asChocolateandPortGelatoabove,substitutingSherryforPort.

ChocolateGelatowithTobaccoWe developed this recipe after reading of a tobacco and chocolate ice creamfrom a restaurant, Syrah, in downtown Santa Rosa in California. It soundedintriguingtous.Weconsultedaresearchpharmacologistonthepossibleeffectsofusingthis

ingredient.He assured us that using such a small quantity, infused for such ashort timeconstitutedonlyanegligiblerisk.We then trackeddownanorganictobacco. We use ‘Natural American Spirit, 100% Chemical Additive FreeTobacco’.(SeeUsefulAddressespage324.)The tobacco gives the chocolate gelato a subtle peppery aftertaste and

combineswiththechocolatebrilliantly.

MakeexactlyasperChocolateGelatopage117.Afteraddingandwhiskingin

the broken chocolate, add the tobacco and stir well. Leave to infuse for 30minutes.Thenstrainthroughafinesievetoremovethetobaccoandchill.

Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

Serveeitherwith roastedbananaor figs.Alsogoeswellwithpuddings thathaveadefiniteMuscavado/blacktreacleflavour.

WhiteChocolateIceCreamIt proved quite difficult to produce an ice cream with an identifiable whitechocolateflavour.Usingasmuchwhitechocolateaspossiblewouldseemtobethelogicalanswer,butinpracticethisdoesnotwork.Itproducedanoverfattedicecreamwhichregistersasasandytextureonthetongue,whichforourmoney(andwhitechocolateistooexpensivetowaste)wasdistinctlyunpleasant.Sodonotbe seduced intomakinganyof themany recipesaround thatuse

morethan15%whitechocolateto85%custard/cream.TheproblemisthatmostWhite Chocolate Ice Creams taste sandy and the secret is to get the ratio ofwhitechocolatetocreamcorrect.Allinallwethinkitcomesoffbestwhenusedasabackgroundorvehicleforother,strongerflavours.Sotryourrecipeshereandusethemasabasisforyourownexperiments.

NOTE:Somebrands ofwhite chocolate are so low in cocoa butter/solidsthattheywillnotmelt,sopleaseuseabrandthatcontainsaminimumof25%cocoabutter/solids.Thisinformationisgivenonthebackofthepacket.Ifitisnot specified, do not buy that brand. We always use Lindt Swiss whitechocolateasitissoreadilyavailable.FormoreinformationonwhitechocolateseeIngredientspage58.ThisrecipecomesfromtheAmericanChocolatierMagazine’sbookGlorious

Chocolate.Itisthebestrecipeforwhitechocolateicecreamthatwehaveevertasted.

Finelychopthechocolateandheatitinadoublesaucepanorinaheatproofglassbowloverhot,notboiling,water,stirringconstantly,untilsmooth.

In a largebowl, combine the eggyolkswith the sugar andbeat, preferablywithanelectrichandwhisk,until themixture ispaleandthickenoughtoholdtheshapewhenaribbonofthemixistrailedacrossthesurface.

Inaheavynon-reactivepan,bringthecreamandmilktojustbelowboilingpoint. Pour about half of themilk and cream into the egg and sugarmixture,whiskingconstantly.Nextpourtheremainderofthemilkandcreammixtureintothemeltedchocolate,whiskingconstantlyuntilwellblended.Returnboththesemixtures to the saucepanandcontinueheating slowly, stirring constantly,withthe saucepan on a heat-diffuser mat, until the custard is thickened and thetemperature has reached 85°C/185°F. As soon as the custard has reached therighttemperature,plungethebaseofthepanintoafewinchesofcoldwater.Onnoaccountshouldthecustardbeallowedtooverheatorboilasthemixturewillcurdle.(Forhowtodealwithanoverheatedcustardseepage74.)Leavetocool,stirringoccasionally.Strain thecustard intoa jug,andcover thesurfaceof thecustard with buttered greaseproof paper. Store in the refrigerator until wellchilled.

Whenreadyaddthechilledcream,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Freezeforatleastfourhours,oriffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

ServewithBlueberrySauce(page266)ortopwithdriedblueberries.Togetthebestflavouroutoftheseberriestakeabout100gdriedblueberriesandputina small panwith3Tbspgin, heatuntil steaming, cover and leave to cool andplump up in the alcohol. Serve spooned on top of the ice cream. Dried sourcherriesareverygoodtreatedinthesameway.

WhiteChocolateIceCreamwithToasted

Almonds

Grill the almonds on a baking tray for 3-5minutes until light golden brown.When ready, transfer thenuts to anotherbaking tray to stop cooking and coolcompletely.Chop coarsely. Either still or stir freeze (page 80) the ice cream.Whenitisreadytostore(page81),stirinthetoastednutswelltoensureevendistribution. Serve within an hour, or if frozen solid allow 30 minutes in thefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

WhiteChocolateIceCreamwithSourCherriesWeusePolishsourcherriesavailableinglassjarsfromdelicatessens.SeealsoMorelloCherryIceCream,page115.

Drain the cherries completely and chop coarsely. Either still or stir freeze(page80)theicecream.Whenitisreadytostore(page81),stirinthechoppedcherrieswelltoensureevendistribution.Servewithinanhour,oriffrozensolidallow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

ChristmasCakeiceCreamSurprisinglysuccessful, thisreallydoeshavetheflavourofChristmasaboutit.We use a standardChristmas cake, including themarzipan, but not the sugaricing.Wemuchpreferthistypeofflavouredicetothosemadewithmincemeat.The

suet,orotherfat,usedinthemincemeatisdetectableintheicecreamandgivesanunpleasanttaste.

Usingtheabovequantitiesofmilk,softlightbrownsugar,eggyolksandcream,prepare and cook a custard according to the method for making StandardFrenchVanilla IceCream (seepage72). Continue up to the stagewhen thechilledcustardiscombinedwiththecream.Atthispointstirinthebrandy.

Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreeze(page80).Whentheicecreamisreadyto store sprinkle in the diced cake and stir or churn briefly to ensure evendistributionandstore(page81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

VARIATION: This can be used to make a bombe. SeeChristmas Cake IceCreamwithBrandyParfaitBombepage262.

CiderSorbetThis isan ideal store-cupboard recipe. It canbeproducedat shortnoticeandalwaysimpresses.Weprefertouseaverydrycider.

Chillthecider,addthesyrupandlemonjuicetotaste.Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Freezeforatleastfourhoursorovernight.Iffrozensolid,allow30minutesin

thefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

CinnamonIceCreamCinnamonisoneof thosespices thatdiesquickly, thepowder form, inevitably,losing fragrance and flavour faster than the cinnamon sticks or quills. If thearomadoesnothit youwhenyou take the lidoff the jar, throw itoutandbuysomefresh.

Using theabovequantitiesofmilk,vanillabean, sugarandeggyolks,prepareand cook a custard according to the method for making Standard FrenchVanillaIceCream(seepage72),addingthecinnamonstick,brokenintoshortlengths,at thesame timeas thevanillabean.Cool thecustard, thencoverandchillinthefridgeovernighttoallowthecinnamonflavourtodevelop.

Whenreadyaddthecream,removethevanillabeanandcinnamonstick,theneitherstillorstir freezeandstore (pages80 to81).Servewithin1houror, iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

CitrusSorbetGiven the strong sweet/sharp flavours of citrus fruit it is almost impossible tomake an indifferent citrus sorbet. However, it is important to get the sugarbalancecorrectasthemanydifferentvarietiesofeachfruitvaryconsiderablyinacidity. Taste, taste and taste again to get the balance right for this sorbet. Itshouldbeslightlytart.

Inasmallsaucepancombinethesugarandwater.Heatslowlystirringfrequentlyuntilthesugardissolves.Thenleavetocoolandchillinthefridge.

Meanwhile,put1orange,thegrapefruit,1lemonand1limeintowarmsoapywater. Scrub the fruit; then rinse thoroughly and dry. Use a zester to removeshortstripsofcolouredrindfromeachfruit.Transferthestripstoasieve,pourakettlefullofboilingwateroverthem,andthenleavetodrainonapadofkitchenpaper.

Squeezeandstrainthejuicefromallthefruitintoabowl,andcombinewiththecooledsyrupandstripsofzest.Coverandchillinthefridge.

Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

ClementineSorbetWiththebewilderingvarietyofcitrusfruitsavailable,wedecidedtokeepthingssimple. We aimed for a flavour that was clearly not lemon, lime, orange orgrapefruit,andfoundthattheflavourofclementinescamethroughclean,clear,directandunmistakable.

Scrub theclementines in soapywater then rinseanddry them.Usingazester,removeonlythecolouredpartofthezestfrom5oftheclementines.Putthezestinanon-reactivesaucepanwiththesugarsyrup,bringtotheboil,thenlowerthe

heat and simmer for 1 minute. Cover and leave aside to cool.When cooled,strain thesugarsyrupanddiscard thezest. (Youcankeepsomeof thezest fordecorationifyouwish.)Squeezetheclementinesandaddthestrainedjuiceandthelemonjuicetotheflavouredsugarsyrup.Chillinthefridge.

Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

CloveiceCreamThis is tailor-made for those who prefer to have ice cream served on top ofpuddings.Trythiswithapplepieorrhubarbcrumble.

Combinethemilk,creamandcloves(yes,18)inthetophalfofanon-reactivedouble saucepan. Sit this over a base pan of simmering water and allow thecreamtoreach justbelowboilingpoint.Turnoff theheat,coverand leave thecreamtokeephotandinfuseforabout20minutes.Tasteregularlytoassessthestrengthofthecloveflavour,bearinginmindthatwhenfrozenthetastewillbe

milder.Alsoconsidertheotherpuddingsoricecreamsthisistobeservedwith;e.g.applepieandrhubarbcrumblewilltakeastrongerflavour;amilderflavourisbetterifyouareservingitwithothericecreamsorsorbets.

Strainthecreamtoremovetheclovesandpouritbackintothetophalfofthedouble pan. In a bowl whisk the egg yolks and sugar until foamy, and stiffenoughtosupportatrailofmix.Pourhalfthehotcreamintothebowlinathinstream,whiskingconstantly.Returntheblendtotherestof thecreamandheatoverabasepanofbarelysimmeringwateruntil thecustard is thickenough tocoatthebackofaspoon(85°C/185°F).

Strainthemixtureintoabowlandcoverwithasheetofbutteredgreaseproofpapertopreventaskinforming.Leavetocool,thenchillinthefridge.

Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

ToastedCoconutIceCreamThisrecipeisbasedonusingfreshcoconut.Forthosewhohaveneverdealtwitha coconut it can seem a problem, prompting people to reach for ice picks,sledge-hammersandelectricdrills.Ourtechniqueisnotsodramatic.Sinceitissimplerandsaferthanmostadvicewehavereadonthesubject,wepassiton.First though, when buying a coconut, shake it; it should have an

unmistakable,generously sloshingsound.Thencheck the three ‘eyes’;noneoftheseshouldbemouldyorshowanysignofdamage.Toopen thecoconutyoufirst need to drain off the water inside. (It is called water, not milk.) A fewexperimentaljabswillestablishthatoneeyeissofterthantheothertwo.(Thisistheeyethroughwhichthecoconutwouldhavesprouted.)Wefinditeasiesttouseacorkscrewtomakethefirstholeinthiseyeandthenenlargeitwithakebab-typeskewer.Usethecorkscrewtomakeasecondholeinanothereyetoavoidanairlock.Leavethecoconutupsidedowntodrainintoalargeglassormug.To open the shell, cover the coconut with a towel, place it on a stone or

concrete floorandhit itwithahammer.Thisusuallybothcracks theshellandfreesthemeatatoneandthesametime.Tryusingasharppotatopeelertopareoffthethinbrownskin,asthishasprovedtobesaferthanaknife.Anycoconutmeatleftoverkeepsbestimmersedincoconutwater,inthefridge.After all your hard work you will be rewarded with the most gloriously

flavouredicecream.

Preheat theoven to160°C/325°F/GasMark3.Prepare thecoconutasoutlinedabove. Coarsely grate the white meat either by putting it through the coarsegraterdiscofagoodprocessororbyhand.Spreadevenlyovera largebakingtray and bake for about 15 minutes or until the coconut is golden. Stiroccasionallysothatthecoconutpiecesbrownevenly.

Measure80g/¼cup/2¾ozofthetoastedcoconutintoasaucepan,reservingtheremainderinasealedcontainer.Addthemilkandheatgentlyuntilthefirstbubbles appear. Remove the pan from the heat, cover and leave to infuse forabout30minutes.Strainthemilk,pressingthecoconutfirmlytoextractallthejuices.Measure thecoconutmilkandmake itup to375ml/1½cups/12flozwithfreshmilkifnecessary.Returnthecoconutmilktothesaucepanandbringbacktoboilingpoint.

Meanwhile,whisktheeggyolksandsugartogetherinaheatproofbowlandproceedasforStandardFrenchVanillaIceCreampage72.

Whenthecustardiscool,coverandchillinthefridge.Whenready,addthechilledcream,stirthecreamandvanillaintothecustard

theeitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

Scoops of the ice cream can be served with a sprinkling of the remainingtoastedcoconut.

EasyCoconutIceCreamHaving one recipe with fresh coconut, we thought it would be useful also toincludeaveryquick,easyonemadewithcannedcoconutmilkordesiccatedorcreamed coconut. However, these ingredients did not produce anything like asatisfactory result, until, in desperation, we tried using dried coconut milk

powder.Thiscomesinasealedfoilpackinaboxandlookslikeanyotherfinemilkpowder.Thehardworkisconfinedtoopeningtheboxandpacket;theflavourofthe

icecreamisamazinglygood!Whichallgoes toproveagoodcookerymaxim;keepanopenmind.

MaketheicecreamaccordingtothemethodformakingSoftScoopVanillaIceCream,whiskinginthecoconutmilkpowderfollowingtheadditionofthehotmilktothebeatensugarandegg.

Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

IcedFrothorMousseGlaceThis is a novelty from Jules Gouffé’s Book of Preserves, 1871 in which heillustratesalltheequipmentneededforthisrecipe.Itisreallyanicedsyllabubwithout the alcohol using ‘1 qt double cream,½pint very strong coffee,¾ lbpoundedsugar.Iconsiderthesefroths,onaccountoftheirlightness,superiortoeitherIcesorSorbets’.The ‘frothing stick, which can be obtained from all respectable turners’ is

‘twirledwithgreateasebetweenthehands’.Thefrothisthenremovedfromthebasinwithaskimmerandplacedonaflatroundhairsieve.Itisthentransferreddirectlyintojellyglassesandthenthejellyglassesareputintoa‘freezing-caseuntilwanted’.

CoffeeIcedFrothThisisourmodernreconstructionoftheGoufférecipe.

Youreallyneedcreamwith48%fatcontentforthisanditcanbeobtainedfromgoodsupermarketsorspecialityfoodshops.USheavycreamisonly36%fatanditwillnotbeasgoodforthisrecipebutyoucanuseit.

Dissolvethesugarinthehotcoffee.Coolintherefrigerator.Chilltheglassesinthefridge.

Mix thecreamwith thesweetenedcoffeeandwhiskwithanelectricwhisk,andusingaskimmer,removethefoam,asitforms,toasieve,preferablyflat(anoldfashioneddrumsieveis ideal).Thisis tolet thefoamdrainanddryandtoremoveall theliquidcream.Thengentlymovethefoamtotheglassesusingadessert spoon.Do not push the foamdownor try to compress it. Then freezeuntilneeded.

Donotkeeptheglassesinthefreezer longerthanabout3hoursanddonotusevaluableantiqueglasses,justincase.

EspressoCoffeeIceCreamQuitesimplythebestcoffeeicecreamwehaveevertasted.

Putthecoffeebeansinafoodprocessororblenderandgrindfor10seconds.Combinetheminasaucepanwiththemilkandcreamandheatgently,stirring

occasionally,untilbubblesstarttoappeararoundtheedge.Thenremovethepanfromtheheat,coverandleaveuntilcold.Inaheatproofbowlcombinetheegg

yolks and sugar and beat, preferably with an electric hand mixer, until themixtureispaleyellowandalighterconsistency.

Nowbring thecoffee infusionback to justbelowboilingpoint thenpour instages through a fine strainer onto the eggyolks and sugar,whiskingbetweeneachaddition.ThenproceedasforStandardFrenchVanillaIceCreampage72.Oncecold,coverandchillinthefridge.Whenready,addthechilledcream,eitherstillorstir freezeandstore (pages80 to81).Servewithin1houror, iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

WhiteCoffeeGelatoElizabethDavidinherbook,HarvestoftheColdMonths,referredtoGuglielmoJarrin’s ‘exquisite white coffee ice cream’. This recipe was in Jarrin’s ItalianConfectioner published in 1820 andwritten while he was working for RobertGunter,thefamousconfectioner,inBerkeleySquareinLondon.Inourresearchintotheoriginsofice-creamrecipesandoureffortstotrytofindoutexactlywhocopiedwhom,wefindthattheearliestreferencetothiswhitecoffeeiceisinEmypublished in1768.This isprobablywhereJarringot the inspiration. It isalsomentionedinBorellapublishedin1770.Therecipeis interestinginthat, insteadofgrindingroastcoffeebeans, they

are infusedwhole in the hotmilk and then discarded. The result is an almostcompletelywhitecoffeeice.YoucanuseanytypeofcoffeebeanbutifyoucansourceJavabeans,whichareparticularlyrecommendedbyElizabethDavid,thisisprobablythebestplacetostart.Weprefermakingthisiceasagelatosoyougetthefullestpossibleflavourofthecoffeebeanscomingthrough.

Heat the coffeebeans in themilk to justbelowboilingpoint.Cover, cool andleaveinthefridgeforatleast12hoursorovernight.Strainandreservethemilk;discardthecoffeebeans.

MakethegelatoaccordingtotheStandardGelatorecipepage75.This sophisticated ice is best served on its own so that the integrity of the

coffeeflavourcanbeappreciated.

CoffeeGranita

Measure250ml/1cup/8flozofthewaterintoasmallpanandaddthesugarandstripsoflemonpeel.Bringtotheboil.Boilfor30seconds,andthenremovethepanfromtheheat.Stirinthecoffeeandafurther625ml/2½cups/20flozofcoldwater.AddtheKahluaandchilltheliquidinthefridge.Discardthelemonstrips.

FordetailedinstructionsonhowtoprepareGranitaseepage71.

GranitadiCaffèEspressoTheGelateria Tirreno, in Formia, Italy,makes an excellent coffee granita. Infactitistheirspeciality,andtheirmethodofservingisagoodonetotry.Spoonthe freshlymade coffeegranita intoa tall, chilledglass.Push thehandleof awoodenspoonthroughthecentredowntothebaseoftheglassandwinditroundtocreateaconicalcavity;fillwithwhippedcream.Servepronto!

Put thewater in a pan, add the ground espresso coffee and bring to the boil.Immediately turn off the heat, add the lemon zest and allow to infuse for 5minutes.Strainthroughacoffeefiltertoremovethegrounds.Thenaddthesugarsyrup and the lemon juice and leave to cool. Cover and leave to chill in thefridge.

FordetailedinstructionsonhowtoprepareGranitaseepage71.NOTE:Youmay find it easier to fill the centrewithwhipped creamusing a

pipingbagfittedwithasmallplainnozzle.

CoffeeParfaitTraditionally,parfaitswereaniceddessert,flavouredwithcoffee.Trueparfaitshave almost died out as they are difficult to make in large quantities whilemaintainingthelightness.However, theyhavetheadvantageofnotneedinganice-creammakerastheyarefrozenandnotevenstirred.

NOTE:Thisrecipeispreciseinordertogetaperfectresult.

Forthisrecipeyouwillneedathermometer,agoodqualitythree-speedelectrichand mixer and, preferably, a double saucepan. Failing this, select a largeheatproofbowlwhichwillsitsnuglyintoasaucepan.Intothebowlputtheyolksandusetheelectricmixertowhiskthemuntillightandpale.

Dissolve the instantcoffee in2Tbspofsugarsyrupbywarming it slightly,thenaddtherestof thesyrupandwarmthecoffeesyrup to30-40°C/86-104°F(aroundbloodheat), thenwhisk this,a few tablespoonsata time, into theeggyolks.Noweitherpositionthebowlover,notin,asaucepanofbarelysimmeringwater,orpourthemixtureintothetopofadoublesaucepanpositionedover,butnotin,scarcelysimmeringwater.NowproceedexactlyaccordingtothemethodformakingParfaits(seepage71).

FreshlyBrewedCoffeeSorbet

Addthesugartothehot,freshlybrewedcoffeeandstiruntildissolved.Chillinthe fridge.Whencold, taste andaddasmuch freshly squeezed lemon juiceasyoufeelnecessary,rememberingthatfreezingdullstheflavour.

Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

InstantCoffeeSorbetThiscanproduceaverygoodsorbetprovidedyouuseagoodinstantcoffee.

Add the instant coffee to the hot water and then add the sugar and stir untilcompletely dissolved. Chill in the fridge. When cold, taste and add as muchfreshlysqueezed lemon juiceasyou feelnecessary, remembering that freezingdullstheflavour.

Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

CornishClottedCreamIceCreamItissurprisinghowemphaticallytheflavourofclottedcreamcomesthroughinthis icecream,considering thecomparativelysmallamountused in therecipe.Forloversofrichicecreamthisistheultimate.

Combine themilk andhalf the sugar in amediumsized saucepan andbring tojust below boiling point. Now proceed according to the method for makingStandardFrenchVanilla IceCream (seepage72).Continue up to the stagewhere the custard has reached the right temperature and/or has thickenedsufficientlyandthepanhasbeenremovedfromtheheatandthebaseplungedin

a few inchesof coldwater.At thispoint immediately stir in theclottedcreamandleaveuntilcoldbeforecoveringandtransferringtothefridgetochill.

Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreeze(page80).CAUTION: Because of the high fat content this ice cream will not need

churning for as long as most other ices; it will only need a maximum of 10minutestochurntothestagewhenitisverysoftlyfrozenandthickened.Ifitischurnedpastthisstageitisverylikelytobecomebuttery.

Then store (page 81). Freeze for about 4 hours before serving. Allow 30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

CranberryGranitaFor a long time the cranberry was scarcely more than a condiment for theThanksgiving turkey and something of a rarity outside the USA. Now, due toaggressivemarketingbytheproducers,cranberriesarecroppingupeverywhereon themenu, all the year round.Our feelings about this fruit are slightly lessthanenthusiasticbecausetheflavourisnotonlysourbutbitter,andalltoooftenthe reaction is to swamp the fruitwith sugar to overcome the bitterness.Withcranberry ices this is not such a problem because freezing seems to have amellowing effect on the bitterness. Bear this in mind when you taste the mixbefore freezing, and do not feel daunted. A civilised ice of good colour andflavourwillemerge.

Inanon-reactivesaucepan,gentlysimmerthecranberriesinthe3Tbspofwateruntil they burst. Then pour the contents of the pan into a food processor orliquidiser.Addthe625ml/2½cups/20flozofwaterandliquidiseuntil it isapuree.Rubthroughaplasticsieveandaddthesugarsyrupandthestrainedjuiceoftheorangeandthelemon.Coverandchillthoroughlyinthefridge.

FordetailedinstructionsonhowtoprepareGranitaseepage71.Serve the granita in a tall glass with some crème fraîche flavoured with

Cointreau.

CranberrySorbet

Inanon-reactivesaucepan,gentlysimmerthecranberriesinthe3Tbspofwateruntil they burst. Then pour the contents of the pan into a food processor orliquidiser.Add165ml/⅔cup/5½flozofwaterandliquidiseuntilitisapuree.Rubthisthroughaplasticsieve.Thiswillproducebetween315-375ml/1⅓-1½cups/10½-12flozofpuree.

Take the puree and add exactly twice this volume of sugar syrup and thestrainedjuiceof1orangeand2lemons.Checktheflavour;morelemonmaybeneededascranberriesshouldbeslightlytartortheytasteunidentifiablyjammy.Coverandchillintherefrigerator.

Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

ICECREAMFORUSFORCESSeventy-fiveice-creamfreezers,withatotalcapacityof1,350gallonsperhour,arebeingshipped

fromAmericainordertomanufactureicecreamforUnitedStatestroopsinthiscountry.

THEICECREAMINDUSTRYMAGAZINESEPTEMBER1942

CrèmeFraîcheIceCream

MakeaccordingtotherecipeforStandardFrenchVanillaIceCreampage72.Oncethecustardhascooled,coverandchillinthefridge.

When ready, add the chilled cream, strain the custard discarding the lemongrass pieces, then either still or stir freeze and store (pages 80 to 81). Servewithin 1 hour or, if frozen solid, allow 30 minutes in the fridge to softensufficientlyforserving.

Cucumber,WhiteWine&MintSorbetAlthoughitmaybedifficulttoadjusttotheideaofcucumbersinasweetsorbet,thiscombinationisverysuccessful.

Top, tail and peel the cucumbers. Then cut into chunks and put in a foodprocessor or blender with the dry white wine and sugar. Blend until smooth.Positionafinemeshsieveoverabowl.Pourinthecucumberpureeandlemonjuiceand leave todrain foraminuteor two.Thenpress the residue left in thesieveuntilthemaximumjuicehasbeenextracted.Donotbetemptedtorubthepulpthroughthesieveasthisgivesthesorbetaslightlydistractingsandytexture.Rinseanddrythemintleaves,finelychopandaddtothecucumberliquid.Coverandchillinthefridge.

Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyfor

serving.

DamsonJamIceCreamBefore thedaysofcanning,deep freezersandair freight theonlyway tohavefruiticecreamsinthewinterwastousethefruitpreservedinsugar.Otherthandriedfruits,jamsandmarmaladesweretheonlyformoffruitsavailableoutofseason.Early cookery books containmany recipes based on preserves of this type,

and, to our surprise, they work extremely well. This damson ice cream has agreatflavourandawonderfulcolour.

Combinethedamsonjam,sugarandlemonjuiceinafoodprocessororblender,blenduntil smooth.Tasteandadd the lemon juice toyour liking, thenadd thecreamandprocess foroneor two secondsonly tomix in thecream,and thenchillinthefridge.

Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

Damson&SourCreamIceCreamFruits thathaveasournessandintensityof flavourareexcellentwhenmakingices. Damsons come through the blanket of cream and cold in just the rightmeasuretoproduceamemorableandunusualhome-madeicecream.Aflavourwehaveneverseencommercially.

Carefullysortthroughthedamsons,discardinganythataredamaged.Rinsetheremainingfruitanddrainthoroughlythentransfertoasaucepan.Addthe2Tbspofwaterandbringtotheboil.Coverandcookgentlyfor5-10minutesoruntilthe damsons are soft.Remove from the heat and leave to cool before rubbingthroughaplasticsieveuntilonlythestonesremain.Coverthepureeandchillinthefridge.

MakeaccordingtotherecipeforStandardFrenchVanillaIceCreampage72. However, replace the milk with the whipping cream and continue as perinstructions.Oncethecustardhascooled,coverandchillinthefridge.

Whenready,addthechilledcream,combinethechilledsourcream,damsonpureeandcustardandeitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin 1 hour or, if frozen solid, allow 30 minutes in the fridge to softensufficientlyforserving.

Date&SherryGelatoRobin has a thing about dates because they bring back fond memories ofsomethingsweet,providingsomesortofrelieffromtheabysmaldietatboardingschool.Ofall thevarietiesofdatesavailable,weprefertheMedjoolvarietyasit is

not only the largest of the dates but has a soft rich flesh tasting of intensecaramel tinged with a slight molasses flavour. Medjool dates originate fromMoroccoandaregrownextensivelyintheUnitedStates.Always buy them with the stones in, as they are more moist. Do not be

tempted into buying ‘cooking dates’ they are usually stoned and pressed intoblocksandjusttastesweet.Incidentally,TheOasisDateGardensinThermal,Californiaarewellwortha

visitandforarealtreatifyouarethere,trytheirdateshake.

Puree thestoneddates,sherryand the2Tbspsugar ina foodprocessor. If thedatesaredifficulttopuree,add2Tbspofmilkfromthemeasuredamount.Setaside.

NowmakethegelatoaccordingtotheStandardGelatorecipepage75.Whenmade, andwhile the custard is still hot, add the date puree andmix

well.Coolthepanbyplungingthebaseintoalargebowlofcoldwaterandstirthe custard occasionally until cool. Cover the surface with a piece of oiledgreaseproofpapertoavoidaskinformingandleavetocool.Chillinthefridge.

Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

Thisisagreatgelatotoserveàlamodewithwinterpuddingsandtarts.

Delmonico’sSorbetDelmonico’sRestaurantwas a landmark restaurant inNewYork from themid19thcenturytotheearly20thcentury.Thisisbasedontheirsignatureaperitifbutwehavehadtoreducetheginby

50%tomakeitslightlylesspungentandpossibletofreeze.

Mixtheingredientstogetherandchillthoroughly.Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Freezeovernight.Servestraightfromthefreezer.

DulchedeLecheIceCreamSomethirtyyearsagotherewasaparticularfadwhichinvolvedtheprolongedboiling of cans of condensed milk. This turned the contents into a toffee-likemixturewhichwas then spread in a bakedpastry case, sprinkledwith nuts orwhatever,andassuchbecamethedinnerpartydessert.Whilesearchingforthis

in old recipe files, it popped out of the pages of Nathalie Hambro’s book,Particular Delights. She describes boiling the cans of condensed milk andspreadingthecontentsontoast;ahabitshediscoveredinSouthAmerica.Butwethought it would make a wonderful flavouring for an ice cream – and so itproved tobe, something that isbetweenbutterscotchand toffeeandsomethingelsebesides.Withherpermission,wehaveusedherdelightfulrecipeforouricecream.

Boilingthecondensedmilkwilltakesome3hours,soyouwillneedtoallowforthisif theicecreamistobeservedataparticulartime.Thisissomethingofadrawback, soweusuallyboil at least twocansat a time inorder to savebothtimeandheat.Puttheunopenedtin(s)inasaucepanonabedoffoldedkitchenpaper. (This is to stop the incessant rattling of the cans as they boil.) Pour insufficient coldwater to cover andbring to theboil.Reduce theheat to give asimmer, prop a lid at a slight angle over the pan and continue to cook in thismannerfor2-3hours.

NOTE:Checkthewaterlevelduringthistime,toppingupwithboilingwaterifnecessary.Obviously the longer the cans are boiled, themore caramelised thecontentswillbecome,butwewouldnotadvisetakingitmuchbeyondthe3-hourmark.Leavethecanstocoolinthewaterfor15minutesbeforeremoving.

CAUTION:Waituntilthecansarecoldbeforeopening.Now remove, open and put the contents of one can into a mediumsized

saucepanwiththemilkandbrownsugar.Bringslowlytotheboil,andoncethemixturegetshotwhisklightlytobreakdownthecondensedmilk–itwillneedabitofpersuasion.When thecondensedmilk is fullydissolved remove thepanfromtheheatandleaveuntilcoldbeforecoveringandtransferringtothefridgetochill.

Whenready,addthechilledcream,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

*NOTE: Since writing this recipe Carnation, the manufacturers of condensed milk have brought outCarnationCaramel.Thusremovingtheneedtoboilcansofcondensedmilkfor3hours.Justopenacanofthecaramelversion.

FromageauxEpinglesouàl’AngloisPinorEnglishIceCream

Emy, who wrote L’ Art de Bien Faire Les Glaces d’Office in 1768, has aninteresting ice, Fromage aux Epingles ou à L’Anglois. A strange title for anunusual ice cream.Fromage refers to the cheese-shapedmould, intowhichhesuggests the icecreamwasput.Thiswas theperiodwhere the termL’Angloiswasusedasadescriptionofanythingthatwasconsideredfashionable.WhereastheemphasisofeveryotherrecipeinEmyisgettingsmoothnessinto

theicecream,thisrecipeisexactlytheopposite;youfreezethemixwithoutanyagitation or churning and allow long ice crystals to form. These meltimmediatelyyoueat the icegivingyoua tingling tasteasyoueat it,hence thereferencetoepingles(pins)inthetitle.This is an interesting insight into 18th century ice-cream making and is

somewhatofanovelty.Wehavefoundnothingcomparabletothis inanyotherbookormanuscript.

Mixthesugarwiththemilk(inajug)andstiruntildissolved.Addthecreamandchill.

Whenreadypourthemixintoaplasticfreezerbox,agranitaboxisbest,25×25×8cm/10×10×3inches,isideal,togiveadepthofmixofapproximately2cm/¾inch.

Putinthefreezerandleavefor2hours.Removefromthefreezerandwithafork run the forkaround the edgeof thebox to free the ice and thendrag thefrozen ice to the centre of the box to allow the edge to refreeze. Repeat theprocessafteranotherhour.Then,putbackinthefreezerandfreezeforanother2hoursatleast.Serve.

Althoughnotintheoriginalrecipe,asanalternative,wesuggestadding2tspofvanillaextractbeforefreezing.

ServeonitsownasanoveltyorwithfreshberriesorplainMadeiracake.

EggCandySorbetSorbettodiCanditod’UovaIl Credenziere di Buon Gusto, published in Naples in 1778, and written byVincenzo Corrado (who belonged to a fairly relaxed Benedictine order whichgavehimscopefortravelandgastronomicexploits),givesafascinatinginsightintoNeapolitanconfectioneryandices.Oneof themostremarkablerecipeshehas is the sorbetto di candito d’uovawhich is unlike any ice made today. Itsrichnessand sweetness is indicativeof the tasteofwealthyNeapolitan royaltyand aristocracy in the late 18th century. However it is a sorbetto in that itcontainsnocreamormilk.Itissimplyeggyolksandsugarsyrup.Thissorbettois33%sugarandabout11%fat,makingthetotalsolidsabout

44%.Howeverthetaste,evenwithouttheflavouring,isamazing.Itisinterestingthatthesugarsyrupisidenticaltothesugarsyrupusedtoday

andthroughoutthisbook.Itisweightforweightsugarandwater.Thisrecipeisreallyfortheseriousfoodhistorianoranyonewhowantstotry

whatwasconsideredluxuryinNeapolitansocietyinthelate18thcentury.It isnot for the faint hearted, as it has to be whisked and have the temperaturechecked ALL THE TIME IT IS BEINGHEATED; otherwise youwill wind upwithverysweetscrambledegg.Therearenoshortcuts.Corrado suggested flavouring itwith cinnamonwater or oil, but try it first

unflavoured. Whenever we have served this to people either at home or atvariousconferencesandconventionstheyhavelovedit.

Combine the egg yolks with the cold syrup and whisk well. Heat slowly,whiskingALLTHETIMEuntiltheheatreaches85°C/185°F.Donotleaveitforonesecondortakeyoureyesoffitanddon’tstopwhisking.

Assoonasitreachesthetemperature,immediatelyplungethebaseofthepaninto a basin or sink full of coldwater and continue towhisk until the heat is

below80°C/176°Fandleavetocoolandgoawayandhavealie-down.Thisdoesnotrequireamachine–whencoldjustpourintoaplasticstorage

box,coverwithgreaseproofpaperorfreezerfilmandfreezeovernight.

ElderberrySorbetIn September the hedges inBritain are full of elderberries that can be pickedandfrozenforthewinter.However,theseasonisshortandyouhavetocompetewith thebirdsandwine-makerswhenpicking them.Makesure that theberriesaredarkandfullyripeandavoidanygreenishones.Pickbunchesandtakethemhome,washingthemverywellincoldwater.Thende-stalkthemcarefully,usingafork.Persuadeallthefamilytojoinin;it isathankless,finger-stainingtask.Thisprocesswillloseabout30%oftheweight.Itisbesttocookthemandfreezethe berries before the addition of any sugar. They make a wonderful wintersorbetforadinnerparty.

Puttheelderberriesinanon-reactivesaucepanwiththe165ml/⅔cup/5¾flozofwater and bring to the boil. Then simmer for 5minutes, stirring regularly.Sievewhilehotthroughafineplasticsievetoextractalltheseeds.Thisshouldproduceabout1 cupofpureewhichcaneitherbe frozen for lateruseorusedimmediatelyforthesorbet.

Takethecupofpureeandaddthesyrup,thesaltandtheadditional185ml/¾cup/6flozofwater.Coverandchillinthefridge.

Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

ElderflowerSorbet

FrancoTaruschio,whoused toown theWalnutTree InnnearAbergavenny inWales,probablyhad the largest rangeofhome-made icesofany restaurant intheBritish Isles.Even if itwasn’t the largest, it certainlywas thebestwehadever come across. It used to be well worth the effort to go there just for theselectionof ices.ForoverthirtyyearshisItalian-bornice-creammaker,Anna,hadbeenmakingicecreams,sorbetsandgranitas.FrancoandAnnaintroducedustoelderflowercordial(weuseBelvoir).Thisisourversionoftheirrecipetoenjoyallyearround.

Combine the measured sugar syrup with the water, elderflower cordial andstrainedlemonjuice.Chillinthefridge.

Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

FreshFigandFigLeafIceCream

The idea of infusing fig leaves to intensify the flavour of a fig ice creamwaspromptedbyreadingGeraldineHolt’sFrenchCountryKitchen.She,inherturn,madefigleafcustardasaresultofreadingtheAmericancookerywriterDianaKennedy.Ofcourse,iffullyripened,flavourfulfigsareavailabletheleavesneednotbeused.

Washthefigs,trimawaythestemendsandcutintoquarters.Selectasaucepanthat will accommodate the fruit in a single layer and add the water. Bring tosimmeringpoint, thencoverandcookgently forabout15minutesoruntil thefigsareperfectlytender.Coolandblendbrieflyinafoodprocessororblendersothatthefruitretainsadefiniteanduneventexture.Transfertoabowl,coverandchillinthefridge.

MakeaccordingtotherecipeforStandardFrenchVanillaIceCreampage72usingtheeggyolks,sugar,milkandcream.Rinseanddrythefigleavesandsubmerge them in thehot custardbefore leaving to cool.Nowcover andchillovernightinthefridge.

When ready, add thechilledcream, strain thecustardandadda squeezeoflemonjuice.(Thiswillmakethemixturegonoticeablypinker.)Then,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

DeepFriedIceCreamTheearliestreferencewehavebeenabletofindtofriedicecreamisina1915copy of The Soda Fountain, the monthly magazine for the ‘Druggist,Confectioner and all Operators of Soda Fountains’ which refers to ‘fried ice

cream’beingsoldattheChicagoWorld’sFairin1893,whereitwasknownasAlaskaPieandAlaskaFritters.Unfortunately,otherthanthesenames,thereisnodescriptionorrecipe.SoperhapsitisafirstforChicago.Anyotherbids?Thecontrastofhotandcold isverycompelling toyoungandoldalike.We

were therefore very interested in any recipes that were based on thiscombination.Well,wehavecoated,crumbedandrolledicecreaminpancakes;we have dipped ice cream in egg and allmanner of batters, then chilled andfried through a very wide temperature range, and our conclusion is that youcannot better our recipe below. Stick to our measurements, temperatures andtimingsandyouwillfindthisrecipereliable.Ourtasters’verdictwas‘delicious’and‘greatfun’.

Churn,andthenfreezetheicecreaminan850ml/3½cup/30flozloaftin.About 2 hours before serving, transfer the ice cream to the fridge for 15

minutestosoftenslightly.Dipthetinbrieflyinhand-hotwatertheninvertontoaplateorchoppingboard.Quicklycutinto8(2cm/¾inchthick)slicesandlaythese on a baking sheet linedwith silicone baking or greaseproof paper.Thenreplaceimmediatelyinthefreezerforaminimumof30minutes.

Meanwhilewarmthebutteruntilmelted,andthenremovefromtheheat.Separate1sheetof filopastry; trim, ifnecessary, toapproximately18×28

cm/7×11inches.Brushalloverwithmeltedbutterthenlayasecond(trimmed)sheet directly on top. Prepare the other sheets in the same manner. Toaccommodate themallon theworksurface, stack thesheets, interleavingeachpair with either sheets of plastic or greaseproof paper. This also prevents thepastryfromdryingout.

When completely ready, remove the ice-cream slices from the freezer andwrap up as illustrated below. As soon as the first 4 have been wrapped,refrigerate them (they need not be covered) before continuing to wrap theremaining4slices.Thenfreezetheparcelsforaminimumof1hour.

Justbeforeserving,heattheoilinadeep-fatfryerorinapannomorethantwo-thirds full to 195°C/383°F. (Youmust use a thermometer to measure the

temperatureaccurately.)Assoonastheoilishotenoughremove2parcelsfromthefreezerandlower

theminto theoil.Time themcarefully to fry for50seconds.Try tohold themunderthesurfaceoftheoilwiththeaidofawidefryingslice,sothattheybrownallover.Removeimmediatelytoaplatelinedwithkitchenpaper.Flipbackwardsand forwards on the paper tomop up any excess oil, then serve immediately.Continue frying the remaining parcels, 2 at a time (any more lowers thetemperatureoftheoiltoomuch).

Serving:VerygoodwithLightLemonandSultanaSauce(seepage270)orathin,slightlysharp-flavouredfruitpureesuchasappleorapricot.

VARIATION:DeepFriedMarmaladeIceCream(seepage189)issomethingreallyspecial.

ScentedGeraniumLeafIceCreamScented-leafgeraniums (strictly speaking theyarepelargoniums)on thewholehaveratherinsignificantflowers,buttheyarefascinatingtogrowforthevarietyofattractive leavesandtheirdifferentscents.Thepredominantodour iscitrus,but there are also varietieswith leaves smelling of orange, apple, roses, lime,balsam/pineandvariousspices.Forflavouringicecreamthebalsam/pineisnotgood. The following varieties will give a better flavour: Attar of Roses,Odoratissimum(apple-scented),Radula(rose-lemon),andLadyPlymouth(rose-scented). These varieties and much helpful advice are available from thePelargoniumSociety.

Rinsethegeraniumleavesincoldwaterandpatdrywithkitchenpaper.PuttheleavesinasaucepanwiththemilkandcreamandfollowthemethodformakingandfreezingRosePetalIceCream.

Pleasenoteyoucannotaddtorngeraniumleavestothefinishedicecream.

Gin&TonicSorbetRather unusual, and surprisingly good;wonderfulmadewith gin infusedwithjuniper berries. This very cold sorbet is delicious on hot summer days servedbeforeamealinplaceofdrinks.Itissimplicityitselftomake.

Combine thegin, sugar syrup, tonicwater and strained lemon juice.Stir, tasteandaddalittleadditionallemonjuice,ifpreferred.Coverandchillinthefridge.

Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreeze(page80).Pleasenote;becauseof theamountofgininthismixtureitisimpossibletochurnittothepointatwhichitcanbeimmediatelyeaten.After30minutesitwillstillonlybeasoftslush.Atthisstagestore(page81)andfreezeovernight.Itcanbeserveddirectlyfromthefreezer.

NOTE: Vodka can be substituted for gin. We recommend Fevertree TonicWater

FreshGingerIceCream

We found fresh ginger gives a good, positive, clean and clear flavour to icecream. The method we use to extract the ginger flavour might seem a littlelaborious–whynot simply infuse thechopped freshginger in themilk?Don’teventhinkof tryingit.Theacidity in freshginger issohightheycleancopperwith it inSouthAfrica,weare told.So,ofcourse, itwillcurdlemilk instantly.Also the flavour is unpleasantly bitter if the fresh ginger is not cooked in themannerdescribedintherecipebelow.

Measure the chopped ginger into a small saucepan and add the sugar syrup.Bringtotheboil,thensimmeruncoveredfor5minutesbeforeremovingthepanfromtheheat.Inaseparatesmallpanbringthemilktojustbelowboilingpointthenremovethis fromtheheat.Pour thegingersyrup into themilk,coverandleaveasideforaminimumof30minutes.

Inamediumsizedheatproofbowlbeat theeggyolks tobreak themup.Re-heatthesyrupandmilktojustbelowboilingpointandpourontotheeggyolks,whiskingvigorouslyallthewhile.

Then proceed according to the recipe for Standard French Vanilla IceCream(page72).Oncethecustardhascooled,coverandchillinthefridge.

Whenready,strainthecustard,allowingitsimplytodrainthroughthesieve.Add the chilled cream and vanilla extract. Stir and taste. If a more intenseflavourispreferred,firmlypressthegingerleftinthesieveuntilyouarriveatanintensityofflavourthatpleasesyou.

Theneitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror, if frozen solid, allow 30 minutes in the fridge to soften sufficiently forserving.

Ginger&LimeGranita

Excellentflavour,bothfresh-tastingandveryrefreshing.

Chopthepeeledgingerintosmallchunks,putinafoodprocessororblenderandprocessuntil choppedas finely aspossible.Add the syrup andprocessbrieflyagain.Bringtotheboil, thenremovefromtheheat,cover, thenchillandleaveovernighttoinfuse.

Stirinthewaterthenstrainifyoudonotwantthesmallpiecesofgingerinthe granita. Leave to cool. Carefully scrub 1 of the limes and dry the skin.Removethezestwithazesterandcutitinpiecesnolongerthen5mm/¼inch.Addthezestandthenthestrainedjuiceofupto2limes,accordingtotaste.

FordetailedinstructionsonhowtoprepareaGranitaseepage71.

StemGinger&SyrupIceCreamIf freshginger isnotavailable, this isaveryacceptablealternative foran icecream, and probably better if a more gentle ginger flavour is preferred. The

recipeisinthequickandsimpleno-cookstyle.

Mix together the ingredients for Easy No-Cook Philadelphia Vanilla IceCream,substitutingthevanillaextractforthevanillabean.

Thenfinelychopthestemgingerandaddwiththestemgingersyruptotheice-creammixture.Coverandchillinthefridge.Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

Goat’sCheeseIceCreamQuite hard to describe this, but here goes; it is something like the differencebetweenslicedbreadandbreadthathashadalongfermentation.Meaning,thisice cream has a good depth of the full dairy flavour.We think it is delicious.Make itwith the type ofmedium-fat goat’s cheese often available in pyramid-shapedplastictubsinsupermarkets.Thesearesoft,freshgoat’scheeses,notthesortthatisaged,rolledinparsleyorash,orwithanyflavouradded.

Using the above quantities of milk, sugar and egg yolks, prepare and cook acustard according to the method for making Standard French Vanilla IceCream(seepage72)omittingthevanillabean.Continueuptothepointwhenthecustardhasreached85ºC/185ºFandisremovedfromtheheat.

Nowaddthecrumbledgoat’scheeseandbeatuntilthecustardissmooth.Tocool thecustardquickly, thepancannowbeput intoacoldwaterbath.Whencoldremove,coverandchillinthefridge.

Whenreadytomaketheicecreamcombinewiththecream,lemonjuiceandsalt.

Then, either still or stir freeze and store (pages 80 to 81). Servewithin 1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

Goat’sMilkIceCreamTherearepeoplewhodisliketheflavourofanythingderivedfromthegoat.Thisicecream is for them; it retains justenough flavour tobe recognisedby thosewhoenjoyit,butnotenoughtobenoticedbythosewhodonot.Wecountthisasoneofourtoptenfavourites.Excellentservedwithwarmredberryfruits.

Usingtheabovequantitiesofgoat’smilk,sugar,eggyolksandcreamprepare,cook and freeze the ice cream accroding to the method Standard FrenchVanillaIceCream(seepage72)butomittingthevanillabean.

GoldenSyrupIceCream

Lyle’sGoldenSyrup® isanamazing ingredient. It isoneofBritain’sbest keptculinarysecretsasfewpeopleoutsidethecountryseemtoknowaboutitandnoothernationhasanythingquitelikeit.ItisreadilyavailableintheUSAindelisandgoodqualityfoodshops.Theicecreamistheperfectpartnerforspongepuddings,tartsandpies.

Tomakethegoldensyrupmorefluidandeasiertomeasure,removethelidandwarmthetincontainingthesyrupinveryhotwaterforabout15minutes.

Put the egg yolks into a large bowl and whisking all the time, add themeasuredquantityofgoldensyrup.Setaside.

Warm the milk and when hot add to the syrup and egg mixture againwhisking constantly. Return the mixture to the pan and heat until it reaches85°C/185°Foritthickenssufficientlytocoatthebackofaspoon.

Coolthepanbyplungingthebaseintoalargebasinofcoldwaterandstirthecustard occasionally until cool. Cover the surface with a piece of oiledgreaseproofpapertoavoidaskinformingandleavetocool.Chillinthefridge.

Whenready,stirinthecreamandeitherstillorstirfreezeandstore (pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

NOTE: Heston Blumenthal has developed an interesting technique foremphasisingtheflavourofgoldensyrupwithheat.

Putatinofgoldensyrup,withthelidon,inawaterbathinanovenandkeepitat70-80°C/160-180°Ffor48hours.Remembertokeeptoppingupthewaterduringthisperiod.Allowtocool.Thesyrupwillhavedevelopedadeepcaramelflavourthatwillmakeyouricecreamoutstanding.

GOOSEBERRIESSurelytheessentialelementofagooseberryisitssourness?Andyetinanefforttorevitalisethemarketandbringthefruitbackintopublicfavour,thegrowersseembentonproducingthatstrangeenigma, thedessertgooseberry.It is tobehoped that they knowwhat they are doing. All the recipes here require sour,cookinggooseberries.

GooseberryIceCreamGooseberry isadifficult flavour toretainbut this recipepreserves the flavour.The ice cream is dense due to the high fibre content of the gooseberry, butdelicious.Itisbesteatenfreshlymade.

Topand tail thegooseberries andwashcarefully.Thenhalveeachgooseberry,putinanon-reactivesaucepan,addthewaterandcookgentlyfor5minutes.Addthesugarandliquidisewhilehotinafoodprocessor.Rubthroughanylonsievetoremovetheskinsandlargeseedsandchillinthefridge.

Whenready,stirthestrainedlemonjuiceintothepureetheneitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).

Gooseberry&RosemarySorbet

Topandtailthegooseberriesandputthemintoacolanderorsieve.Rinsewithcoldwater,drainandputintoanon-reactivesaucepanwiththerinsedanddriedsprigsofrosemary.Pourinthesugarsyrupandbringtosimmeringpoint.Coverand continue to simmer gently for 5 minutes. By this time, the gooseberriesshould be soft. Remove the pan from the heat and leave to cool for a fewminutes. Discard the rosemary before briefly processing the fruit in a foodprocessor or blender, and then rub the pulp through a nylon sieve.Cover and

chillinthefridge.Whenready,stirthestrainedlemonjuiceintothepureetheneitherstillorstir

freezeandstore(pages80to81).NOTE: This is quite a thick mixture due to the high fibre content of the

gooseberriessothechurnedsorbetisthickerthannormal.Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allowabout30minutesinthefridgeto

softensufficientlyforserving.Itmayneedmoretimetosoftenduetoitsdensity.

ConcordGrapeSorbetWe have always thought ofWelch’s Concord grape juice as a quintessentiallyAmerican product. If you visit theUnited States youwill probably be given aplum-coloured grape jelly with toast at breakfast. Jelly or juice, it has animmediatelyrecognisable,uniqueflavour.Indeedithassuchathoroughlysweetand almost perfumed flavour that it is hard to believe it is natural, but theConcordgrapewastheresultoftenyearsspenttryingthousandsofexperimentsin crossbreeding vines by one Ephraim Wales Bull in pursuit of the perfect,sweet,palatablegrape.HearrivedattheConcordgrapein1849.In1869DrThomasBramwellWelch(thesenamesarecorrect),aphysician

anddentist,successfullypasteurisedConcordgrapejuicetomakeunfermentedsacramentalwineforhischurchcongregationinVineland,NewJersey.Littledidthesemen realise the industry theywere starting.Today theConcordGrowersAssociation as part of the National Grape Co-Operative Association Inc is ahalf-billion-dollarcompany.Welch’s Grape juice is now imported to the UK and is available in

supermarkets, so this was the time to experiment. It makes a wonderfullycoloured,distinctivelyflavouredsorbet.

Mix the ingredients. Taste and addmore lemon juice if necessary. Cover andchillinthefridge.

Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.(picturedopposite)

ConcordGrapeGranitaThis is probably the simplest recipe in the entire book.You just use thegrapejuice straight from the container and into the freezer. The sugar content iscorrectformakingagranitawithoutanyadditions.

Tomakeagranitasimplypourthejuicestraightintothecontainerandfollowthedetailedinstructionsonpage71onhowtoprepareaGranita.Nothingcouldbeeasier.

NOTE:DonotuseWelch’sLitegrapejuice;itdoesn’tcontainsufficientsugartomakeasatisfactorysorbetorgranita.

FreshMuscatGrape&WineSorbetOtherthantheprevioustwoConcordgrapejuicerecipes,ignoreallrecipesthatcallforcarton,cannedorbottledgrapejuice,andanyrecipethatmerelycallsfor‘seedlesswhitegrapes’.Whenfrozen,theflavourofmostcommercialgrapejuiceisfranklyersatz,andanyoldwhitegrapeswillgive,well,anyoldflavour

grape sorbet. But if you use muscat grapes and muscat wine you will tasteheavenhereonearth.

Separatethegrapesfromthebunch,washanddrycarefully.Thenliquidisethesugarsyrupwiththegrapesverybriefly(about3seconds,nolonger,orthepipswillbreakupandtheflavourwillbebitter).Strainthroughafinenylonsievetoremovethepipsandtheskins,makingsurethatmostofthefleshofthegrapesispushed through. Immediately add thewine and lemon juice to stop the grapejuicediscolouring.Mixthoroughlyandchillinthefridge.

Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

GrapefruitSorbetAnykindofgrapefruitcanbeusedforthisrecipe,fromthepaleyellowthroughto the almost blood red of the ‘pink’ varieties. But the darker the flesh thesweeter the taste, soslightly less syrupwillgiveabetter flavour.Thestripsofgrapefruitzest,whichareaddedtothissorbet,shouldbecutveryfineandshortastheytendtowindaroundthepaddle/dasherduringchurning.Ifthishappens,scrapethemfreeandstirevenlyintothesorbetbeforefreezing.

Thoroughlyscrubanddrythegrapefruit.Useazestertoremoveshortstripsof

peel from the 2 grapefruit. The alternative is the more laborious process ofremovingstripsofzestwithasharppotato-peeler.Pareawayanywhitepiththencutintoshort,hair-likestrips.Putthestripsinamediumsizednon-reactivepanwiththestrainedgrapefruitjuiceandsugarsyrup.Bringtotheboilandcontinuetoboilgently forabout10minutesoruntil thezest is tender.Remove thepanfromtheheatandaddthestrainedlemonjuice.Cool,andthenchillinthefridge.

Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

Grapefruit&Campari®SorbetThis is strongly flavoured with a definite ‘bitters’ taste and therefore wouldprobablynotappealtochildren.Asorbetbestteamedupwithicecreamratherthanothersorbets.

Thoroughlyscrubthegrapefruitinwarmsoapywater,rinseanddry.Useasharppotatopeelertoremovethezestfrom1grapefruit.Shaveoffanywhitepithandroughlychop thezest.Put intoa foodprocessororblenderwith thesugarandprocess until the zest and the sugar are of a uniform size.Transfer this into alargemeasuringjugthenaddsufficientstrainedgrapefruitjuicetomeasure500ml/2cups/16floz.

Stir in 3Tbsp ofCampari®, adding a furtherTbsp, if preferred.Cover andchillinthefridge.

Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Freezeforatleast3hours,thissorbetcanbeserveddirectlyfromthefreezer.

Grapefruit,Pimms®&FreshMintSorbetThemarriageofgrapefruitandPimmsisahighlysuccessfulone.

Dissolve the sugar in themeasured Pimms® – itwill do thiswithout heating,albeit rather slowly. Stir in the strained grapefruit and lemon juice, then thewater.Washandpatthemintleavesdry,rollthemuptogetherandcutacrosstogiveverythinstrips.Addthesetotheliquidandchillinthefridge.

Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Freezeforatleast3hours,thissorbetcanbeserveddirectlyfromthefreezer.

Serving:Thesorbetcanbeservedwithsomefreshraspberriesanddecoratedwithsprigsofcrystallisedmintleaves.

GrapeNuts&Horlicks®IceCreamGoodmorningandgoodnight!Ifyouareoneoftheselectbandofbrothersthatlikesgrapenutsandmaltflavoursgenerally,thisisforyou.Itisa‘no-cook’icecream,soifyoustartwithalltheliquidingredientschilleditcanbemadeandchurnedinabout20minutes.Freezingsoftensthegrapenutsjustsufficientlytoguaranteenodentalbills.

Measuretheliquidingredientsintoabowlorlargemeasuringjug.WhiskintheHorlicksandsugarthen,whenthesugarhasdissolved,chillinthefridge.Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreeze(page80).Sprinkleinthegrapenutsinthefinalstageofchurningorfreezing.Store(page81).

Serveonitsownorwithchocolatepuddings,DoubleChocolateSauce(page267)orbrownies.

GrappaGranitaGrappa has been one of the great marketing triumphs of the 20th century.‘Grappa’ literallymeans grape stalk and the brandy is produced by distillinggrape residue, the skins, stems and seeds of the vines left after pressing.Originallyacheapdigestivoproducedtosavewastebyusingleftoversitisnowhighlycommercialisedandsoldworldwide.Theflavourdependsonthetypeofgrapesused.Agedgrappasandpremiercrugrappasfrequentlyinfancyshapedbottlesarenowavailableatsurprisinglyhighprices,anythingupto£250.00or$375.00.We use Nonino Grappa Tradizione 41%, (price approx £20.00, $30.00 a

bottle 750 ml/24 fl oz). Nonino, founded in 1897, is a 4th generation familybusinessandisoneoftheoldestandlargestandbestregardedgrappamakers.Makinggrappagranitauseasugarsyrupmadewithanunrefinedgranulated

sugar, the flavour improvement is quite noticeable when one type is tastedagainsttheother.Itisalsodeliciouswithcookedfigsorfreshmelonorsimplyonitsownwith

anespressocoffee.

Mixthesugarsyrup,waterandgrappa.Addthelemonjuicehalfateaspoonatatime(youdon’twanttobeabletotastethelemon).

MakeaccordingtotheinstructionsformakingGranitapage71.NOTE:Because of the high alcohol content of this granita it takes longer to

make thananormalgranita.We find thatmadeduring thedayand ‘forked’atintervalsof90minutesatleast4–5timesyougetawonderfulcrispfreshalmostdry snow-like texture. Again due to the alcohol content you can keep in anairtightplasticfreezerboxforatleasttwodays.Yes,weknowthattakesabout7hourstomakebutonlyafewminutesof‘forking’areneededoverthistime.Thecompensation isyoucankeep it longer,wehavekept it forover4daysand itonlyneedsslightforkingbeforeserving.

Guava&LimeSorbetWalking into our supermarket one day, a heady aroma ofwhat could only besomeperfectlyripeexoticfruithitus.Wefollowedournosestothefruitsectionwhere thesourceproved tobeguavas,whichwere indeedabsolutely,perfectlyripe.Wesnatchedthemup,ranhomeandmadethissuperbsorbet.

Peeltheguavasasyouwouldapples,thenquarterandputinafoodprocessororblenderwiththesyrup.Blenduntilsmooth,thenrubthroughasieveuntilonlythefragmentsofseedsremain.Intotheguavapureestirthesugarsyrup,water,thegratedrindof1limeandthestrainedjuiceof2–3limes,accordingtotaste.

Coverandchillinthefridge.Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin

1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

Guinness®IceCreamNot justagimmick.This icecreamhasanaffinitywith thedark, rich flavourstypicalof thedried fruitdessertsofautumnandChristmas. Italsoworkswellwith hot chocolate or apple puddings.Generally, excellent for the coldwintermonths,notanicecreamforthesummer.

In amediumsize heatproof bowl combine the egg yolks and sugar. Preferablyusinganelectrichandwhisk,beatuntilthemixtureispalerandthick.

BringtheGuinness®toboilingpoint,then,whilewhiskingthesugar/eggyolkmixtureconstantly,pourintheheatedGuinness®.Then,eitherreturnthemixturetothetophalfofadoublesaucepan,orelsetransferthebowltositoverabasepan containing about lin/2.5cm of simmeringwater. The base of the bowl, orpan,shouldnotbeincontactwiththewater.

MakeaccordingtotherecipeforStandardFrenchVanillaIceCream(page72). Stir in themuscovado sugar, and once the custard has cooled, cover andchillinthefridge.

Whenready,stirinthecreamandeitherstillorstirfreezeandstore (pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow15minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

HalvaIceCream

Thecommercialversionof thisMiddleEasternconfection,which isablendofcrushedsesameseeds,sugar,glucosesyrup,vegetableoilandflavouring,canbebought inmost delicatessens. Some shops stock small packs of approximately250g(9oz).

Using the above quantities ofmilk, vanilla, sugar and egg yolks, prepare andcooka custardaccording to themethod formakingStandardFrenchVanillaIceCream(seepage72).

Oncethethickenedcustardhascooledandchilledaddthecreamtheneitherstillorstirfreeze(page80).Cutthehalvainto5mm/¼inchdiceandfoldintothesoftlyfrozenicecreamandstore(page81).

Serve within 1 hour or, if frozen solid, allow 30 minutes in the fridge tosoftensufficientlyforserving.

Serving:verygoodwithChocolateFudgeSauce(page268).VARIATIONS: Halva comes in a number of flavour variations: Marbled

chocolate and vanilla (Polish variety is best), vanilla, walnut, almond andpistachio.Theicecreamcanbemadewithanyofthesebutitisparticularlygoodmadewithpistachiohalvatowhichanadditional25g/1ozofskinnedpistachionutscanbeadded.

NOTE:Thisisoneofthefewrecipesinthebookthatusessingle(light)cream.Thisisduetothehighfatcontentofthehalva.

HazelnutGelatoHazelnutgelatoisquintessentiallyItalian:PiedmontinnorthernItalyisamajorproducerofhazelnuts.HoweveritisraretofindareallygoodtastinghazelnutgelatoeveninItaly.Beforestartingmakesurethenutsareasfreshaspossibleandwellwithinthe

sell-by date. If space is available store all shelled nuts in the freezer, prior to

cooking.Itwillhelpprolongtheshelflifebyseveralmonths.Ifyouwanttoincreasetheintensityofthehazelnutflavourtoastthembriefly

1-2minutesunderthegrillturningthemevery30seconds.Hazelnutsgowellwithanychocolateicecream.Alsotryservingwithascoop

of chocolate gelato and a scoop of white coffee gelato. You may never eat abettercombinationoficecreams.

Put the nuts into a food processor and process until they are reduced to thetextureoffine,driedbreadcrumbsthensetaside.

MakeaccordingtotherecipeforStandardItalianGelatopage75.Whenthecustardhasbeenmadeandisstillhotaddthegroundhazelnutsand

allowtocool.Thenchillinthefridgeovernight.Whenreadytomaketheice,wethenprefer,unusually,tosievethecustard,

preferringasmooth-texturedgelatotastingofhazelnut.Then, either still or stir freeze and store (pages 80 to 81). Servewithin 1

houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

HerbGranitasTomakeherbgranitaadd560ml/2¼cup/18flozofchilledwatertoanyoftheherbsorbets(seebelow).FordetailedinstructionsonhowtopreparetheGranta(seepage71).

HerbSorbetsUntil we wrote this book we had never entertained the idea of herb sorbets.Theirclean,clearflavourcomesasarevelation.Makewithfreshherbsonly.Donotattemptwithdriedherbs.This recipe, although written for basil, mint, rosemary, pineapple sage or

thyme,canbeusedformostherbsprovidedyoutakecarewiththeamountandstrengthoftheherb.

Rinseanddrytheherbs,andputinanon-reactivesaucepanwiththesugarsyrupandthewater.Bringslowlytotheboil.Removethepanfromtheheatandaddthewine.Coverandleavetocool.Chillovernightinthefridge.Addlemonjuicetotaste,thenstrain.

Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Ittakeslongertofreezebecauseofthealcoholinthewine.Freezeovernight.

Oncethesorbethasfrozensolid, itwillneedabout10minutesinthefridgetosoften.

HibiscusFlowerSorbetDried hibiscus flowers have a very sour, but a most delicious and refreshingflavour in a sorbet and give it an amazing magenta colour. This sorbet iswonderful on its own in summer or served as a foil with other, sweeter-stylesorbets.Personalpreferenceistoserveitinasmallglasswithagenerousslugofginorvodka.Thedriedflowersareusuallyfoundinhealth-foodstores.

Putthedriedhibiscusflowersinajugandaddthewater.Coverandleaveinthefridgeforatleast12hours.Positionasieveoveralargemeasuringjug,pourintheflowersandsoakingwaterthenuseawoodenspoontopushallthewateryoucan from the flowerswithoutactually rubbing them through thesieve.Addanequalquantityofsugarsyrup(seepage70).

Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

HibiscusFlowerGranitaTomakeagranitameasurethesorbetmixtureabovebeforefreezingandaddanequalquantityofadditionalcoldwater.FollowthedetailedinstructionsonhowtopreparetheGranitapage71.Makesasuperbgranita.

HokeyPokeyIceCreamHokeyPokey ice cream is abit of amystery.Theoriginal cryof the itinerantItalian ice-cream seller in England was a corruption of either or both of theItalianexpressions‘Eccounpoco’,or‘Cheunpoco’–‘Hereisalittle’or‘Whata little’. Hokey Pokey then became an expression in theUSA and appears insodafountainbooksaroundthestartofthe20thcenturywhenHokeyPokeywasa type of Neapolitan brick, sliced and wrapped in waxed paper so that thepurchasercouldtake ithome.Thiswasincontrast to thepennylickwheretheicecreamwaseatenbythevendor’sbarrow.GenerallyHokeyPokeywas the lowestqualityof icecreamso imagineour

surprise in finding it as a quality ice cream in some of the best ice-creamparloursinNewZealandandfindingthatitconsistedofvanillaicecreamwithhoneycomb/cindertoffeeincludedinthemix.Thistypeoftoffeeisdelicious.Apersonalfavouriteanditmakesasuperbice

cream.

WethinkthatthebesticecreamtouseiseitherMrsMarshall’sVanillaIceCreampage236orEasyno-cookPhiladelphiaIceCreampage236.

Maketheicecreamandwhenchurnedaddthecindertoffeecrushedintosmallpieces.Giveagoodstirandstorepage81.*SeeUsefulAddressespage324.

HoneyIceCreamSince the flavour of this ice cream directly reflects the flavour of honey used,avoidtheblander,blendedvarieties.Insteadsearchoutorange-blossomhoney,GreekhoneyorScottishheatherhoney.Ifyoulikeareallystrongflavoursearchoutchestnutortrufflehoney.

MakethecustardfollowingthemethodgivenforStandardFrenchVanillaIceCreamonpage72,omittingtheadditionofanysugartotheeggyolks.Whisktheseontheirown,andthenaddthecreamasdirected.Assoonasthecustard

has been cooked and put in cold water to cool, stir in the honey. Whencompletelycold,coverandchillinthefridge.

Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

Servewith freshbananasoranorangesalad,or scatterwithchoppedsaltedalmonds.

VARIATIONS: Use a lavender honey and instead of infusing the cream withvanilla pod, use a sprigof lavender. (Remember lavender is verypungent andjustonesprigissufficient.)Iflavenderisoutofseasonasprigofthymecanbeused.

Honey&ToastedWalnutIceCream

About 30 minutes before the nuts are needed preheat the oven to180°C/350°F/GasMark4.MaketheHoneyIceCreamasdirected.Assoonasithasbeenlefttochurnputthewalnutsonabakingtrayandbakefor6-8minutes.Remove and leave to cool slightly, and then chop – not too finely.As the icecreamisscrapedintotheplasticfreezerboxes,sprinklewiththechoppednuts.Stirwell,beforecoveringandfreezingasdirectedintherecipe.

VARIATIONS:Hazelnutsoralmondscanbeused insteadofwalnuts.Quantity,temperatureandtimingarethesamebutpreparationvariesalittle.

Thehazelnutswillneedtoastingthenrubbinginateatoweltoskinthem.Ifusingunblanchedalmonds,pourboilingwaterover themand leave for a

few minutes before squeezing the nuts out of their skins and toasting in themannerofthewalnuts.

JackfruitSherbetJackfruit (breadfruit) is importedmainly fromThailand, Indonesia andKenyabutisusuallymorereadilyavailablecannedthanfresh.Itisoneofthosefruits

thathasadualpersonality;green,thatisunripened,itisservedasavegetable;yellowandripened,itisasweetfruitthatisdelightfulwhenmadeintoadelicatesherbet.Bothyellowandgreenjackfruitaresoldincans,soreadthelabelcarefully

andbuytheyellowforthisrecipe.ThissherbetisparticularlysuitableforservingafterChineseorThaifood,on

itsownorincombinationwithEasy,orToasted,CoconutIceCream(seepages140and138)orMangoSorbet(seepage187)orLycheeandLimeSorbet(seepage186).

Drain the syrup from the can of jackfruit andmeasure 150ml/½ cup plus 2Tbsp/5flozintoasaucepan.Addthesugar,andwarmgentlyuntilthesugarisdissolvedbeforeremovingfromtheheat.Liquidisethedrainedjackfruitwiththestrained lemon juice; add thewarmsyrupand liquidiseagain.Strain, and thenallow to cool.Whencold, add the chilledmilk and immediately either still orstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).

Serve within 1 hour or, if frozen solid, allow 30 minutes in the fridge tosoftensufficientlyforserving.

JunketIceCreamHidden away in The Dispenser’s Formulary or Soda Water Guide we foundjunket ice cream. First published (circa 1913) by the staff of an AmericanmagazinecalledTheSodaFountain,thisbookcontainsover2,000formulaeandwasthebibleoftheice-creamparlour.Thisformidablerecipestartedwith18quartsofsweetnewmilkand6quarts

ofrichcreamand10poundsofsugar.However,thefascinationlayinthefinalsentenceoftherecipe:‘Agoodformulaofitskindbutonlyalowgradefountain

woulduseit.’Wetrieditanumberofwaysanditwascoldandicyastheresimplywasn’t

sufficientbutterfatinit.Wehaveredressedthebalancebyincreasingtheamountof cream and reducing the sugar. It is now an interesting ice cream, with acuriousold-fashionedflavour.

NOTE:Rennetcanbebought in liquidor tablet form;eithercanbeused forthisrecipe.But,whicheveryoubuy,besureitisplainandnotflavoured.

(Ifusingatablet,dissolveitinasmallamountofthemeasuredmilk.)Combinethe cream and milk with the sugar and stirring, heat very gently until thetemperaturereachesbloodheat(37°C/98°F).Useathermometertoconfirmthis.

Immediately remove the pan from the heat, stir in the rennet liquid (or thetabletdissolved inmilk), then thevanillaextractandpour intoashallowdish.Leave tosetat roomtemperaturecompletelyundisturbed.Onceset, transfer tothefridgetochill.Assoonasitischilled,thejunketisreadytobemadeintoicecream.

Whenready,afterstirringthesetjunket,eitherstill,orstir freezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

KirSorbetTheclassicKirismadefromtwo-thirdswhiteAligotéwineandone-thirdcassis(blackcurrant liqueur, preferably from Dijon where they make the bestblackcurrant liqueur in the world), but most people find this too strong so alighter combination is usually served. Certainly when it comes to making asorbetanydrywhitewinewilldoandonlyasmallamountofcassisisneeded.

Combinethefirstfouringredientsinajug.Ifthewineissufficientlychilledattheoutset,thereisnonecessitytochillthemixturebeforechurning.

When ready, either still or stir freeze and store (pages 80 to 81). Freezeovernight.Thissorbetcanbeservedstraightfromthefreezer.

KiwiSorbetKiwifruitisnowsomethingofafruitcliché.Butnoonewillsneeratthissorbet–itisasgoodasitissimple.Aswithallicecreamsandsorbetsthebestresultsareobtainedfromwellripenedfruit.Kiwiscanbemadetoripeninadayiftheyaresealedinaplasticbagwithanotherripefruite.g.anappleorabanana.Theethylenegasgivenoffbytheripefruitacceleratestheripeningofthekiwifruit.

The simplest way to prepare the kiwi fruit is to cut them in half around theequator,cradlethehalfinacuppedhandandscoopoutthefruitwithateaspoon,avoidingthehardwhitecoreateachend.Putthefruitintoafoodprocessororblenderwith thesugarsyrupandthestrained lemonjuice.Blenduntilsmooth,andthenchillinthefridge.

Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

ITALIANTRADERS

AswegotopressItalyhasenteredthewaronthesideofGermany.ThisdoesnotmeanthewholesaleinternmentofItalianicecreammanufacturersinthiscountry.ManyofthesemenarenaturalisedBritishsubjects.Alargenumberwereactuallybornhere.

ThereisnoquestionofinternmentinthecaseofthosewhohaveacquiredBritishnationality.NordoesitfollowthatalltraderswhohaveretainedItaliannationalitywillbeinterned.

Incasesofinternmentanumberofbusinessesmaystillcarryon.

THEICECREAMINDUSTRYMAGAZINE,MAY1940

KULFIKulfi is the traditional Indian ice creamand has a characteristic cooked-milkflavouranddenseicytextureandgetsitsnamefromthemould.Theoriginalwayofmaking it is time-consumingand tedious,but it really isworth theeffortasshort-cutversionsdonothavethesameflavourandtexture.ForthosewithlesstimeorpatiencewehaveaQuickKulfi(seepage175),butonceyouhavetastedtherealthingwearesureyouwillfindthetimetomakeitthetraditionalway.Thebasisofmakingkulfiistoreducealargevolumeofmilkdowntoavery

smallconcentratedamountof‘condensedmilk’.Thiscantakeanythingbetween2 and 4 hours. Kulfi was traditionally frozen in small conical moulds, 12-15cm/5-6 inches long(seeEquipmentpage50),withscrewtops thatweresealedwithdoughtopreventleakageandwerethenimmersedinearthenwarepots,insaltandcrushedice,tofreeze.Theywereremovedfromthemouldsbyrollinginthepalmsofthehandsandthenturnedoutontoadishtostandontheirbase.Traditionally theywere cut twice across the top in the shape of a cross to

openthemoutslightlyandmakethemeasiertoeatwithaspoon.Theconsistencyofthekulfimixtureismuchthickerthanordinaryicecream

butitmeltsquickly.Onspecialfestiveoccasionstheyaredecoratedwithasmallpieceofsilveror

goldleafonthetop.

PistachioKulfi

Forkulfimouldsseeequipmentpage50.Choosealarge-diametersaucepan,sautépanornonstickwok.Standyourpanonaheat-diffusermat,andraisethemilktoboilingpoint,stirringconstantly.Thengentlysimmer,stirringveryfrequently,untilthemilkisreducedtoathickliquidofabout750ml/3cups/24floz.Thiscantakeanythingupto4hours,dependingonthepan.Whenreduced,removefromtheheatandpourthekulfiintoajug,adding thesugar,nutsand rosewater.Stir slowlyuntil thesugarhasdissolved,thencool.Chillinthefridge.

When ready, stir to ensure the nuts are evenly distributed in the kulfi, andthen pour into about 12 kulfi moulds. Cover and store at once, pointed enddown,inthefreezer.

To unmould: either partially immerse in cold or coolwater or place in thefridge for a fewminutes. Do not immerse in warm or hot water as kulfi arefragileanddefrostveryfast.Warmorhotwaterwillmaketheoutsidemeltandtheinsidewillremainfrozen.

VARIATIONS: With the basic kulfi recipe above it is easy to develop otherrecipesusingspices,e.g.groundcardamom,cinnamon,othernutslikealmonds,orotherflavourssuchasmangoororangeflowerwater.

QuickKulfiAlthoughnotasgoodas the real thing, this isa reallyquickkulfi that is veryeasy tomakeand is a veryacceptable impromptudessert to followa curryathome. This recipe is flavoured with cardamom and rosewater butmany otherflavours can be used as long as they can be mixed into the liquid withoutprecipitating. Ingredients such as nuts are best sprinkled over the kulfi justbeforebeingservedas,evenfinelychopped,theyfalltothebaseofthekulfimixbeforefreezingcantakeplace.

Removethecardamomseedsfromthepods,discardthepodsandgrindtheblackseeds in a mortar and pestle until they are a fine powder. Do not use ready-ground cardamom from a bottle, as somemanufacturers grind up the pods aswellastheseedsandtheresulthaslittleflavour.

Combine themilk, sugar and rosewater in a large jug and stir occasionallyuntilthesugarhasdissolved.Stirinthechilledevaporatedmilkandcream.

Pourintokulfimoulds(seepage50)orintoaplasticfreezerbox.Coverwithgreaseproofpaperorfreezertissueandalid.Finallylabel,andthenfreezeforatleast 6 hours. Once frozen, allow about 10 minutes in the refrigerator beforeserving.

QuickMangoKulfiGoodripemangoesarehardtofind.Sincethisisaquickmangokulfiwehaveusedtinnedmangoes,which,sadly,areoftenofafarmorereliablequalitythanfresh.Thismakesitanidealstore-cupboardice.

Drainthemangoes,discardingthesyrup,andpureethefleshinafoodprocessororblenderuntilsmooth.Measure250ml/1cup/8flozofthepureeandcombinewith the sugar in the food processor or blender. Process until the sugar iscompletelydissolved.Chill.

When ready,mix the sweetenedmangopureewith theevaporatedmilkandthecream.Addlemonjuice,halfatablespoonfulatatime,totaste.Youcanaddapinchofgroundcardamom,ifliked.

Pourintokulfimoulds(seepage50)orintoaplasticfreezerboxandcoverwith a piece of freezer film orwaxed or greaseproof paper and a lid. Finallylabel,andthenfreeze.Oncefrozenallowabout10minutesinthefridgebeforeserving.

GumMasticGelatoGummasticistheresinfromasmallevergreentreewhichmainlygrowsontheGreek island of Chios. It is used throughout theMiddle East not only for icecreams; there isevena liqueurmade from it. Itused tobeusedextensivelyaschewinggum!Itisthestretchyelasticitythatispartofthecharacteristicofthisiceaswell

asitsflavour.MasticcanbepurchasedinMiddleEasternshopsorcanbeobtainedonthe

internet. SeeUseful Addresses page324. The small finger-nail-sized pieces ofcolourless resin are usually sold in tiny packets of about 2.5 g / oz. Thegroundpiecesofoneofthesepacketsofmasticareequivalentto¼teaspoon.Mastic (seepage221)makes an intenselywhite ice that has a pliable and

elastic texture and it has an interesting slightly piney flavour when used inmoderation.

Grindthemasticcrystalsintoaveryfinepowderinasmallpestleandmortar;itisstickysoifyouarehavingtroubleaddhalfateaspoonofsugarandgrindthe

twotogether.Makeagelatoaccordingtotherecipe;whilestillhotaddthegroundmastic.

Thisneedstobedoneverycarefullytopreventthemasticcloggingtogetherinsmalllumpswhichareimpossibletobreakdown.Sosprinklethegroundmasticfinelyandcarefullyoverthesurfacewhilebeatingquicklywithawhisk.

Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

Tryservingit‘streetstyle’usingaflatspatulatoscrapeuptheicefromthecontainer and wipe it downwards into an ice-cream cone, finishing with anupwardmovementtoformatallpeak.

MasticGelatowithRosewaterDonotbelieveanyrecipethatcalls itselfTurkishDelightIceandusesbought,chopped,Turkishdelighttobestirredintoabasicvanillaice.Itdoesnotwork.FreezinghardenstheTurkishdelightintowhatcanonlybedescribedascar-tyrerubber.Inedible!Muchbettertoflavourthemasticicewithrosewater.

Make according to theGumMasticGelato,when chilled add the rosewater alittle at a time and taste to arrive at a suitable flavour. Rosewaters varyconsiderably.ForavailabilityseeUsefulAddressespage324.

LavenderSorbetThe amount of lavender used in this sorbet sounds very little, but in fact fourheads of lavender flowers are all that is needed to achieve a delicately pinksorbetwithanintriguingflavour.Donotusethedriedlavenderthatissoldforflowerarrangingasitmayhavebeensprayedwithinsecticides.Ifflowerheadsareunavailable,uselavenderteaorlooseflowers.

Pourthemeasuredsyrupintoapan,addthelavenderheadsorflowersandbringslowlytotheboil.Removethepanfromtheheat,addthestrainedjuiceofhalfalemon,thencoverandleavetocool.Strainthesyruptoremovethelavenderandaddthecoldwater.Taste,andaddtheremainingstrainedlemonjuice,ifitseems

toosweet.Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin

1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

LEMONSAsmuchaslemonsvaryinsize,sodotheyvaryinacidity.Wehavetriedtodealwith thisbygivingaweightof lemons, and thenumberof average-sized fruitthatwouldcomprisetheweight.However,thedegreeofacidityisunpredictablesoourquantitiesofjuicecanonlyactasaguideline.

Withboththeseversionsoflemonicecreamwehavelookedforabalancedflavour of lemon that is positive and without any acidic/bitter back-taste.Removingallthewhitepithfromthezestgoesmorethanhalfwaytoachievingthis.Adjustingtheamountoflemonjuiceseestotherest.Ofcourseitisamatteroftastebutouradviceistoflirtwithdangerandpushtheacidityafractionmorethanyouthink.

LemonIceCream–CookedThis cooked version is a fuller, rounder, more unctuous ice cream than theuncookedone(seepage178), and isbest served toaccompanypuddings fromtheranksofpies,tartsandcrumbles.Theflavourvergesonthatofhome-madelemoncurdbuthasabitmorerefinement.

Thoroughlyscrubthelemonsinwarm,soapywater,thenrinseanddry.Usingasharppotato-peeler,removeonlythecolouredpartofthezestfrom1lemon.Ifsomeofthewhitepithisremovedwiththezest,thisshouldbeshavedoff,usingasharpknifeangledalmostflatagainstthepeel.Putthestripsofzestinasmallsaucepan with the cream and heat gently until just below boiling point, thencoverandleaveasidetoinfusefor30minutes.

Inaheatproofbowlcombinetheeggyolksandsugarandbeatuntiltheytakeonapaleyellowcolourandlighterconsistency.

Re-heatthelemonandcreaminfusiontojustbelowboilingpointthenpour,instages,throughasieveontotheeggyolks,whiskingbetweeneachaddition.

NowcontinuetomakeaccordingtotherecipeforStandardFrenchVanillaIceCreampage72.Oncethecustardhascooled,coverandchillinthefridge.

Immediately, and while the custard cools, finely grate only the lemon-colouredzestfromtheremaining2lemonsandaddtothecustard.Whenithascooled to room temperature, cover the surface of the custard with a circle oflightlybutteredgreaseproofpaperandtransfertothefridgetochill.

Whenready,squeezethejuicefromallthelemonsandaddatablespoonatatimetothechilledcustardviaaplasticsieve.Once6tablespoonsoflemonjuicehave been stirred in, start tasting, and add a little more lemon juice until theflavour is toyour liking.Noweitherstillorstir freezeandstore (pages80 to81).

Serve within 1 hour or, if frozen solid, allow 30 minutes in the fridge tosoftensufficientlyforserving.

LemonIceCream–UncookedQuick,fresh-tastingandlight(itcontainsnoeggs),thisversionisbetterservedaspartofaselectionofothericecreamsand/orsorbets.Eatwithinthreedays.(We say this, not because something dreadful happens to the ice creamat the73rdhour,butjustbecausethebrightedgeoffreshnessisallbutgonefromtheflavourbythen.)

NOTE:Useveryfreshcreamforthisrecipeorthereisadangerthatthelemonjuicewillcurdleit.

Prepare and remove the peel from all 3 lemons as outlined in the recipe forLemon IceCream–Cooked seepage177,making sure all thewhite pith is

removedfromthezest.Putthepeelandsugarintoafoodprocessororblenderandblendforabout4minutes,oruntilthepeelissofineit‘disappears’intothesugar. Squeeze the juice from the lemons and measure 6 Tbsp into the foodprocessor.Keeptheremainingjuice.Addthesaltandblendagainfor30secondsthenstirslowlyandsteadilyintoajugcontainingthechilledcream.Coverandchillagainforabout1hour.

Whenready,tastethemixtureandaddmorelemonjuiceifpreferred;afurthertablespoonwillusuallysuffice.

Noweitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror, if frozen solid, allow 30 minutes in the fridge to soften sufficiently forserving.

LemonCurdIceCreamThis is adapted from a recipe card from our favourite supermarket chain,Waitrose.We have adapted it slightly by lowering the fat content. It is easy tomake,

light and fresh tasting; one of our favourites in fact. We used a shop-boughtproduct,DuchyOriginals,luxuryorganiclemoncurd.

Pour the cream into a bowl, add the finely grated rind of the lemon and beateitherbyhandorelectrichandwhiskuntilthecreamjuststartstothicken.Stirintheremainingingredients.

Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

LemonMeringueIceCreamAboutthirtyyearsagotheKenwoodChefmixercameaccompanied,asusual,byitsownpaperbackrecipebookcontainingonerecipeinparticularwhichwasafamilyfavourite.ItwastheKenwoodversionofaLemonMeringuePie,differentinthatthewholelemonswereliquidisedwithsugar,waterandcornflourbeforebeingstrainedandthickenedthenpoured into thepastrycaseandtoppedwithmeringue. This method of liquidising the whole lemons gave the filling adelicious bitter-sharpness, unlike a straightforward lemon flavour, butcompletely right for the pie with its billowing, sweet meringue top. They nolongergivethisparticularversionintheKenwoodbook,soit is frommemory.(If anyone has this vintage version of the book lying around unappreciated,pleasesendittous.)Youcancompletethelemonmeringuepieexperienceifyouwish,byserving

theicecreaminbowlsonabaseofCrispAlmondCrumble(seepage285)andtoppingwithroughlycrumbledMeringue(seepage284).Itisrathergood.

Combinethemilkpowder,waterandcornflourinaliquidiser.Scrubthelemons,cutintochunksandadd.Blendforabout2minutes,oruntilthelemonpiecesareaboutthesizeofsugarcoffeecrystals.Positionafinesieveoverasmallnonstickpanandpourinthecontentsoftheliquidiser.Pressthepulpdownhardtoextractthemaximumliquid.Discardthepulp.

Transferthepantodirectheatandbringtotheboil,stirring.Adjusttheheattogiveagentleboilandcontinuetocookforafurther2to3minutes.Removethepanfromtheheatandstirinthesugar.Whenthishasdissolvedinsertapieceofoiledgreaseproofpaper to liedirectlyontopof thesauceandsealaboutaninchupthesideofthepan.Leaveuntilcoldthenchillinthefridge.

Whenreadystir thecreaminto thesauceand theneitherstillorstir freezeand store (pages 80 to 81). Serve within 1 hour or, if frozen solid, allow 30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

Fresh-TastingLemonYoghurtIceCreamThis ice is light, clean and quite honestly rather sharp. Taste themixture justbeforefreezingandaddanadditionaltablespoonfulortwoofsugar,ifyoureallymust.But,ifyouaddtoomuch,theicecreamisindangeroftastinglikeshop-bought,sweetenedyoghurt.

Scrub 1 lemon in warm, soapy water. Rinse, dry and use a potato peeler toremove3strips(approximately1.25cm/½inchwide)ofzestfromstemtosternofthelemon.Putthelemonstripsinafoodprocessororblenderwiththesugar,and liquidise until the lemon is so fine it ‘disappears’ into the sugar.Add thecreamandyoghurtand thestrained juiceofboth lemonsandprocess just longenoughtomixthoroughly.Chillcovered.Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).

Serve within 1 hour or, if frozen solid, allow 30 minutes in the fridge to

softensufficientlyforserving.

LemonGranitaLemon and coffee are the two classic granita flavours. This particular recipegivesawonderfulcleanlemonflavourwithjusttherightsharpnessandnohintofthe‘boiledsweet’lemonextractthatruinscommercialsorbetsandices.

Squeezeandsievethe lemonstoremoveanypipsorpiecesof lemon.Addthesugar syrup and water, mix well, and then make according to the recipe forGranitapage71.

For theultimatedinnerpartychicuseforaSgroppino (page223),orputascoopinaglassoficedteaoraglassofsodawateroracoke.

LemonSorbetBesidetheotherexoticrecipes,thissorbetstillhasaplacebecausewhenmadewell it is superb. However, it is often abused. Frequently, even in expensiverestaurants,wehaveenquired if thesorbetsaremadeon thepremisesand thequestionusuallypromptsanoffendedaffirmative.Thenourimaginationconjuresupchefs in tallwhitehats squeezingapileof lemons.Notabitof it. Inmanycasestheyareshakingapacketofready-mixwhitecrystalsintoabowl,addingwaterandmakingtherestaurant’s‘ownhome-madelemonsorbet’.Whodotheythink they are fooling? Because when it isn’t the real McCoy it is instantlydetectable.Citricacid,lemonessence,lemonjuicefromabottleorthestufffromsqueezyplasticlemonsdonotworkeither.Simplytastethesorbetmadefromthisrecipe and you will know what we are talking about and it will save us athousandwordsoftext.Lemonsorbetisachallenge,aslemonsvaryconsiderablyinsizeandflavour.

So be ready to taste and adjust the sugar before freezing. Some lemons aresweeterthanothersbutdonotreducethesugarbelowtherecipelevel.

Thoroughlyscrubanddrythelemons.Useazestertoremoveonlythestripsofyellow-colouredskinNOTthewhitepart, fromthreeof the lemons, thenchopverysmalltoaboutthetextureofcastersugar.Setaside.

Squeeze the lemons.Positiona finesieveoverabowlandstrain the lemonjuice. Whisk in the sugar about 50 g/ ¼ cup/2 oz at a time. Add the finelychoppedzestandchillinthefridge.

Whenready, tasteandthenaddequalquantitiesofbothwaterandsugarsyrup,about50mlofeachatatime,untilyouhaveatruelemonflavourthatisnottootart.

Thenwhenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin 1 hour or, if frozen solid, allow 30 minutes in the fridge to softensufficientlyforserving.

VARIATION: A Colonel is a lemon sorbet that has vodka poured over it justbeforeitisserved.Oneofourfavourites.

LemonGrassIceCreamLemongrassisaflavourusedextensivelyinthecookingofThailand,Malaysia,Indonesia and Sri Lanka. Lemon grass contributes a perfume to a dish,somethingakintolemonverbena,withnonotionofsourness.ItcanbeboughtfreshfrommostshopsspecialisinginAsianfoods;whichispreferabletoeitherthedriedorcertainly thepowderedform.Itusuallycomesinbundlesofsixoreightstalks,about30cm/12incheslong.Lookinglikeasomewhatdrier,woodierversionofaspringonionorscallion,theyarepreparedinmuchthesameway,usingonlyabout13cm/5inchesofthebulb-likebase.Havingdiscardedthetop,trimthebaseandpeeloffthetoughouterleaves(abouteightstalkswillsufficeforthisrecipe)andyouarereadytogo.Anyremaininglemongrasswillkeepforabout threeweeks if stored in a plastic bag in the fridge, and can be used toflavourallmannerofrice,soups,fishandchickendishes.

Thinly slice the lemon grass and put this into a saucepan with the milk andcream. Bring to just below boiling point then remove the pan from the heat,

coverandleavetoinfuseforaminimumof30minutes.In amediumsized, heatproof bowlwhisk together the egg yolks and sugar

untiltheytakeonapaleyellowcolourandlighterconsistency.Bringthelemongrass infusion back to just below boiling point and pour on to the egg yolks,whiskingallthewhile.

MakeaccordingtotherecipeforStandardFrenchVanillaIceCreampage72.Oncethecustardhascooled,coverandchillinthefridge.

When ready, add the chilled cream, strain the custard discarding the lemongrasspieces,theneitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).

Serve within 1 hour or, if frozen solid, allow 30 minutes in the fridge tosoftensufficientlyforserving.

Basil-FlavouredLemonSorbetSorbettodiLimonealSapordiBasilico

Overthelasttwentyyearsorsobasilhasrisenfromanonymitytobecomeoneofthecook’sfavouriteherbs.Witnessthepopularitybyitspresence,fresh,allyearround,cheekbyjowlwithmintandparsleyinmostsupermarkets.Basilmarriesso well with tomato that the combination is in danger of becoming a tiredculinarycliché.Whatissurprisingishowslowpeoplehavebeentorecogniseitspotential with fruit. Only one herb book, admittedly written over twenty-fiveyearsago, timorouslysuggestsaddingapinch(ameasurementsosmall itcanservenopurpose)tostewedfruit.ThisisAnnaDelConte’srecipe,whichcomesfromherbook,Entertainingall’Italiana.Itcombinesbasil,orangesand lemonsinasorbetwithtypicalItalianvigourandtheresultisexcellent.

Scrubthefruitinwarm,soapywater;rinseanddry.Useasharppotatopeelertoremovethepeelfromtheorangesandlemons,withoutremovingthewhitepith,andputintoanon-reactivesaucepan.Addthewaterandthesugar.Bringslowlyto theboil andboil rapidly for3-4minutes.Remove from theheat, coverand

allowtocool.Whencool,strainthecontentsofthepanintoabowl.Meanwhilesqueeze the lemonsandoranges, strain, andadd this to the syrup.Tearup thebasilleavesintoverysmallpiecesandaddtheseaswell.Chillovernight.

Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreeze(page80),giveagoodstir tomix thebasilleavesevenlyastheyhaveahabitofgettingwoundroundthepaddlesandstore(page81).

Serve within 1 hour or, if frozen solid, allow 30 minutes in the fridge tosoftensufficientlyforserving.

LimeSorbetAwonderfully refreshing, delightfully tart sorbet. To us limes always seem tohavemorethanahintofcoconutaboutthem,soteamingthissorbetwithEasyCoconutIceCream(seepage140)workswell.Infact,ifyouthinkaboutalltheotherfruitsthatgrowinasimilarclimateandbaseyourideasoncombinationsofthese,youcan’tgofarwrong.

Sincethezestofonly1limeisneeded,itisonlynecessarytowashone.Useazesterandremovethecolouredpeelonlyfromthisone.Coverandkeeptoaddtothesorbetwhenfrozen.Squeezethelimes,strain,andmixthejuicewiththesugarsyrup,strainedlemonjuiceandwater.Chillintherefrigerator,preferablyovernight.

Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezethenforkinthereservedlimezestandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

NOTE: We prefer putting in the lime zest at this stage; added earlier, thetendrils of peel tend to getwound around the blades of themachine and timespentremovingthemallowsthesorbettomelt.

LiquoriceRootIceCreamThisisHestonBlumenthal’srecipe,forwhichwethankhim.Heisthethree-starchefwithaninsatiablecuriosityaboutfoodandheusesanythingsciencehastoofferinordertoachievethetastes,texturesandconsistenciesthathewants.Asso often happens with Heston he has gone back to the origin of liquorice;

literally back to the roots. We so rarely taste anything other than the blackliquorice confectionery, which always has a heavy black treacle/molassesflavour,thatitcomesofsomethingofashocktofindoutwhatabrightflavourliquorice really has; brightwith a nutty,woody background.Miles away fromliquoricebootlaces,Danishsaltliquorice,BassetsLiquoriceAllsorts,andalltherest.Tryit.

NOTE: Liquorice root can be bought in individual sticks about 18cm/7 inchlongor inbundlesof10sticks inwhole-foodstores.Theyare inexpensiveandkeepforalongtimeifwrappedtightlyinclingfilmandstoredinascrew-toppedjar.

Cut the sticks into short lengths. (Garden secateurs are thebest implement forthis.)Wethencrackthestemsopenwithahammertoaidtheinfusion.Putthesticksinasmallpanwiththewholemilk,1dessertspoonofsugartakenfromthemeasuredamount,thecoffeebeansandmilkpowder.Bringtotheboilthenturndown theheatandallow themixture to simmer for5minutes.Remove,coverandleaveasidetoinfusefor20minutes.

Meanwhileputtherestofthesugarinthebowlofastandmixerfittedwithawhisk attachment. Add the egg yolks and the seeds scraped from the halvedvanillapod.Turnthemachinetomaximumandleavetowhiskfor10minutes.Bythistimethemixturewillhavethickened,whitenedandincreasedinvolume.

Returntheinfusedmilktotheboilthenstrainthroughafinesieveintoajug.Whiskthemilkintothebeateneggsinaslowstreamthenreturnthecontentsofthebowl to the rinsed-outpan.Cookover a lowheat stirringuntil the custardthickensorreaches85°C/185°F.

Transferthecustardtotherinsed-outjug,coverandleavetocoolthenchillinthefridge.

Still or stir freeze and store (pages 80 to 81). Serve within 1 hour or, if

frozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

Lychee&LimeSorbetLycheesareafruit thattaketocanningverywell.Infact, theyareoftenbetterfromthecanthanthefreshoneswebuy,sotheymakeanidealstore-cupboard

sorbetwhichfitstheWesternneedforadesserttofollowaFarEasternmeal.Theflavourislight,fresh,andfragrant;anexquisitesorbetwhichpeopleeat

inembarrassingamounts.FreshlimeleavesareavailablefromThaiorOrientalgreengrocers.

Drainthejuicefromthecanintoasmallsaucepanandaddthesugarand6rinsedand dried lime leaves.Bring slowly to the boil then remove the pan from theheat,coverandleaveasidetoinfuseforaminimumof30minutes.Liquidisethelycheesforabout30secondsthenstopthemachineandpourinthestrainedlimejuiceandsyrup;blendforafurther30seconds.Strainthepulp,pressinghardonthedebrisleftinthesievetoextractthemaximumjuices.Slicetheremaining3limeleavesasfinelyaspossiblethenchopabout6timeswiththeknife.Mixintothestrainedliquid,coverandchillinthefridge.

Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

MaiTaiSorbetMaiTaiisacocktailinventedin1944byVictorBergeron,thefounderofTraderVic’sinOakland,California.Thename,MaiTai,isTahitianandmeans‘OutofthisWorld’whichthissorbetreallyis.ForabsoluteauthenticitythecocktailmustbemadewithTraderVic’sMaiTaiRum,butagoodmatureddarkrumwilldo.NOTE:Becauseoftheamountofalcoholinthissorbetitwillprobablynotfreezesufficiently in a machine to serve immediately – it depends on the type ofmachine. So we would not recommend it, say, as an impromptu ice on a hotsummer’s day. Much better to consult a weather forecast and make it thepreviousday.

Mixalltheingredientstogether.Stiruntilthesugariscompletelydissolved,thencoverandchillinthefridge.

When ready, either still or stir freeze and store (pages 80 to 81). Freezeovernight.Thissorbetcanbeservedstraightfromthefreezer.

Servewithasprigoffreshmintbeforeorafterameal.

MangoSorbetThereisnodoubtagoodmangoishardtofind.Infactitcanbesolongbetweenonegoodmangoandthenextyoucanforgethowplainperfectaripemangocanbe.But thereare six varieties to look for:Alphonso from India;Haden,Keitt,KentandTommyAtkinsfromPuertoRico;andfromtheWestIndies,Julie.

Remove the flesh and skin from themango and puree in a food processor orblenderuntilsmooth.Pourintoameasuringjug;therewillbeabout400ml/1½cups/12 fl oz.Now add half this volume of syrup, i.e. 200ml/⅞ cup/7 fl oz.Strainthelemonjuiceandaddwiththesalt.Mixwell,tasteandaddalittlemorelemonjuice,ifpreferred.Coverandchillinthefridge.

Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyfor

serving.

MapleSyrupIceCreamThisisofcourseusinggenuinemaplesyrupandnotmaple-flavouredsyrup;thereal stuff has a maple leaf motif on the label. A slightly different cookingtechniqueisusedforthecustard;it isbakedinindividualramekinsinawaterbath.Nothingcangowrongwiththismethod;thecustardissimplylefttobake,thenoncecooled,thecontentsoftheramekinscanbeemptiedintoajugandlefttochillinthefridgeuntilyouarereadytochurnit.Thatisall.TheflavouroftheicecreamisA.1.

Youwill need 6 × 185ml/¾ cup/6 fl oz capacity ramekins and a roasting tinlargeenoughtoaccommodatethem.Preheattheovento160°C/325°F/GasMark3.Warmthecreaminasaucepanuntilhand-hot.Meanwhileput theeggyolksinto a bowl and beat for 1-2 minutes, then continue beating and pour in themaplesyrupandsoftbrownsugar.Beatforafurtherminutebeforepouringthehotcreamontotheeggyolkmixinathinstream,stillwhiskingallthewhile.

Pouranequalquantityofthemixtureintoeachramekinthroughasieve.Puttheramekins inaroastingtin, theninto theovenbeforepouringsufficient tap-hotwaterintotheroastingtintothesamedepthasthemixtureinsidethepots.Layasheetoffoiloverthetoptopreventthesurfaceofthecustardsformingacrust.Bakeforabout60-75minutesoruntilthecustardsarejustset.

Carefullyremove theroasting tinfromtheoventhen theramekinsfromthewaterbath.Leavetocool.Ittakesuplessspaceinthefridgeifthecustardsarenowemptiedintoajugbeforetransferringtothefridgetochill.

Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

MapleSyrup&PecanIceCream

Make theMapleSyrupIceCream according to the recipe.Add the choppedpecans,sprinklingthemintotheicecreamasitisspoonedintotheplasticfreezerboxes.Stirwelltomix,thencoverandstoreaccordingtothemethodformakingMapleSyrupIceCream.

MargueritaSorbetBecauseof theamountofalcohol in thissorbet it isalmost impossible tochillsufficientlyinamachinetoserveimmediately,soallowovernightinthefreezertosolidify.

Mix the sugar syrup, water, alcohol and the strained juice of 2 lemons. Thentaste,andaddmorelemonjuice,ifliked.Chillthemixtureinthefridge.

When ready, either still or stir freeze and store (pages 80 to 81). Freezeovernight.Thissorbetcanbeservedstraightfromthefreezer.

MarmaladeIceCreamFrançois Massialot in his Nouvelle Instruction pour Les Confitures, LesLiqueurs,etLesFruits,avecleManièredeBien,1692,hasarecipe,FromageàlaDucheffe(Duchesse), thatcontainsdriedapricots,greencitronsandorangemarmaladeinit.

However theearliest reference toanexclusivelymarmalade icecream is inJohnCaird’sbookTheCompleteConfectionerpublished inEdinburgh(1809).Hehas, under ice creams, aCrèmeD’Arcy. The ingredients are cream, sugarandmarmalade,‘andifinseasonalittlegrateofbitterorange’.There are a number of ‘D’Arcy’ recipes and ‘à la D’Arcy’ recipes in Mr

Caird’sbookandIvanDaythinkshemayhaveworkedforafamilyofthatname.MrsMarshall inherBookof Ices (1885) has a recipe that is a littlemore

complicated than ours. The recipe below is sensationally quick, simple anddelicious.JustbesuretouseagoodqualitySevilleorangemarmalade–extrathick-cut and home-made preferred. MrsMarshall strains her marmalade icecream,butwe like to leave in thepeelas itaddscharacter.LikeJohnCaird’soriginalourreciperequiresnocooking.Wealwayssuggestthatanyonewhohasnevermadeicecreambeforeshould

startbymakingthis‘minimumeffort/maximumresulticecream’.

Combinethemarmalade,sugarandthecreaminafoodprocessororblenderandblendverybrieflyso that thepeel remains indiscerniblepieces.Tasteandaddtheorangejuicetoyourliking.

Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

NOTE:ThisisreallyspecialservedasDeepFriedIceCream(seepage153).VARIATIONS:Gingermarmaladeor anyothermarmalademakesdelicious ice

creams. You can use the whole gamut of marmalades from Coopers VintageMarmaladetoRosesLimeMarmalade.WhiskyMarmaladealsoworkswell.Wehave found that at demonstrations it is the marmalade ice cream that is theparticularfavouriteofmen.

MELONSThevariety,sizeandflavourofmelonsvarysogreatlytherearenorecipesthat

will coverall types.Asageneral ruledon’t attemptamelon sorbetunless themelon is really ripe, or you will be disappointed. Stick to the most stronglyflavouredofthemelonvarieties:Cantaloupe,CharentaisorGalia.

CantaloupeMelonSorbet

Halvethemelonandscoopout theseeds.Scoopthefleshfromthemelonrindandputthefleshinafoodprocessororblenderwiththesugarsyrup.Blenduntilsmooth.Therearethentwopossibilities:1.There is quite a lot of fibre in aCantaloupemelon. If you like a very firm

sorbet,withaCantaloupemelontexture,thatwillmeltslowly,donotsieve.2.Ifyoudonotlikethetextureandthicknessthatthefibregives,rubthrougha

finesieve.So, then sieve or do not sieve, as the casemay be, and add the lemon juice.Taste,andaddmorelemonjuice,ifnecessary.Thentransfertoalargejug,coverandchillinthefridge.

Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

CharentaisMelonSorbetAboldandfull-flavouredsorbetofanalmostunrealpastelorange.Asusual,forthe best results, use amelon that is so ripe that the aromahits youwhen youwalkintothekitchen.

Halvethemelonandscoopouttheseeds.Removethefleshfromthemelonrindandputinafoodprocessororblenderwiththesugar,strainedlemonjuiceandport.Blenduntilsmooth,andthentransfertoalargejug.Coverandchillinthefridge.

Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

GaliaMelonSorbetFollow the instructions for making a Charentais Melon Sorbet (see above),omittingthewhiteport.

FreshMintIceCreamAwonderfulflavourthatonlythefreshherbwillgenerate.Ithasadelicategreencolour.

MaketheStandardFrenchVanillaIceCream,omitting thevanillabeanandsubstituting the less strong vanilla sugar. (If this is not easily to hand ¼ tspvanillaextractcanbeusedwithordinarysugar.)

Continue up to the stage where the custard has thickened sufficiently andreached85°C/185°F.Have thesprigsofmint ready, rinsedandpatteddry,andput them intoa1 litre/4cup/32 flozmeasuring jug.Assoonas thecustard isready,removeitfromtheheatandpouritintothemeasuringjugontopofthesprigsofmint.Leavetocooltoroomtemperatureandtransfertothefridge.

When ready, add the chilled cream, pour the contents of themeasuring jugthroughasievepressingthemintfirmlytoextracttheflavour,theneitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).

Serve within 1 hour or, if frozen solid, allow 30 minutes in the fridge tosoftensufficientlyforserving.

MintIceCreamwithBlackcurrantRippleBlackcurrantbeingsuchastrongflavour,itisdifficulttofindanotherthatwillmatchyetalonemarrywithit,butmintisonethatdoes.Heretheratioofblackcurrantpureetominticecream,andthemannerinwhichtheyaremingled,gotomakeanadmirablebalance.

FollowingtheingredientsandmethodgivenformakingFreshMintIceCream,prepareamint-flavouredcustard.Thencoverandputinthefridgetochill.

Topreparetheblackcurrantsworkoveracolanderorsieveanduseaforktostrip the blackcurrants from the stalks, discarding all damaged and under-ripeberries.

Rinseanddraintheblackcurrants.Then,ifyouhaveamicrowave,tipintoamicrowave-safecasserolesothatthefruitformsashallowlayer.Itwillneednoadditionalwaterotherthanthatleftclingingtotheberries.Coverandmicrowaveatfullpowerfor2minutes.Stop,uncoverandstir.Recoverandmicrowaveforafurther2minutes.Bythistimetheberriesshouldbesoft.

Alternatively, tip the drained berries into a small saucepan, add 1 Tbsp ofwater,coverandheatgentlyuntiltheberriesaresoft.

Empty the berries and juices into a food processor or blender and add the

sugar.Blendfor10seconds,andthenrubthepulpthroughanylonsieveintoabowl.Coverandchillinthefridge.

Nowstillorstir freeze (page80) theFreshMint IceCream.While the icecreamisfreezinghavereadythechilledblackcurrantpureeandaplasticfreezerbox,minimum1litre/4cup/32flozcapacity.

When the ice cream has reached the consistency of softly whipped cream,stopthemachineandquicklyspoonone-thirdofthemixtureintothecontainer.Cover this with a layer of half the blackcurrant puree; repeat the layering,finishing with the ice cream. Using a large spoon, turn and fold the mixturetwice, making sure the spoon goes right to the base. More than this is notnecessaryandinfactwillstart tomixthe icecreamandthepuree.Thenstore(page81).

Freezeforabout3hoursor,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

MintJulepIceCreamThe julep, often assumed to beAmerican, is in fact of Persian origin. In TheLegendaryCuisineofPersia(GrubStreet),MargaretShaidatracesitbacktothePersian word ‘golab’. (‘gol’ means flower, ‘ab’ means water. ‘golab’ meantrosewater.).However,theArabsdonothaveahard‘g’andpronouncedit‘jolab’andthiswasturnedintotheEnglishjulep.ThemeaningofthewordchangedinEnglandtodenoteadilutedsweeteneddrink–thejulepcordial.Itwasfurtherchanged inAmericawhere thealcoholicmint julep isapopular,deliciousandrefreshingsummerdrinkintheSouth.The textureof this ison the icy sidewhich is the resultofaddingsufficient

alcoholtogettheflavourrightandholdingbackonthesugarsoasnottodrownthemint.

Using the above quantities ofmilk, vanilla, sugar and egg yolks, prepare andcooka custardaccording to themethod formakingStandardFrenchVanillaIceCream(seepage72).Continueuptothestagewherethecookedcustardistransferredfromtheheattosit inafewinchesofcoldwater.Atthispointaddthe rinsed, driedmint leaves to the hot custard, then leave to cool.Cover andchillinthefridgeovernight.

When ready,add thechilledcream,strain thecustardandstir in thechilledcreamandthebourbon,theneitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).

Freezeovernight.Thisicecreamcanbeservedstraightfromthefreezer.NOTE: In the machine this mixture will be unable to reach a low enough

temperaturetofreezetoafirmenoughconsistencytoserve,becauseofthehighalcoholcontent.

MuscatWineSorbetThesuccessofthissorbetwilldependontheflavourandqualityofthedessertwineused.Orangemuscatwines fromAustraliaareparticularlygood for thissorbet.

To the measured wine, add the sugar syrup, water and strained juice of thelemon.Coverandchillinthefridge.

Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Freezeovernightandiffrozensolid,allow10minutesinthefridgetosoften

sufficientlyforserving.

Nectarine&AmarettiIceRich, creamy and not too sweet. Here we have used the almond-flavouredbiscuits,nottheliqueur,othertypesofalmondbiscuitscanbeused,e.g.ratafiasormacaroons.

Make according to the recipe forStandardFrenchVanilla IceCream (page72).But using thewhole eggs rather than just egg yolks. Thiswill produce athicker custard thanusual.Once the custardhas cooled, cover and chill in thefridge.

Meanwhilepeelthenectarinesbyimmersingtheminboilingwaterforabout1minute.Slipofftheskinsandquarter3ofthem.Puttheseinafoodprocessor

orblenderandblendbrieflyso that the fleshremains insmallishpiecesand isnotreducedtoauniformpuree.Foldtheseintothecustardwiththeyoghurtand1-2dropsofalmondextract.Chillinthefridge.

When ready, either still or stir freeze (page 80).While the ice is freezing,dice the remaining nectarine and roughly crumble the biscuits by hand.Whentheicecreamisreadyfoldinthedicednectarineandcrumbledbiscuitandstore(page81).

Servewithin1½hoursor, if frozensolid, allow30minutes in the fridge tosoftensufficientlyforserving.ServewithasweetenedfreshRaspberrySauce(page272)scatteredwithadditionalcrumbledbiscuits,ifliked.

NougatIceCreamThenougaticecreaminouroriginalbookwasgood,buttoocomplicated.Thisoneissimpletomakeandtastesgood.Theproblemisthegenerallypoorqualityof nougat available, in shops in Britain anyway. Here we have added honey,toasted almonds, vanilla and almond extract to compensate for indifferentnougat,so,foronce,donotbothertobuyanythingtooexpensive!

Combinethefirstfiveingredientstogetherinabowl,stirwelltomixthencoverandchillinthefridge.

Meanwhilechopthenougatintosmallpieces,aboutthesizeofcoffeesugarcrystals. (With soft nougat sometimes scissors work best for this.) Chop thealmondsintoacomparablesizeandsetasidewiththenougat,readytoaddtotheicecream.

When ready,give thechilledmixagoodstir, thenstillorstir freeze (page80) the ice cream. Add the chopped nougat and almonds right at the end of

freezing,mixingthepiecesevenlythroughoutthemix.Store(seepage81).

NoyauSherbetCrèmedeNoyauorNoyauxisapeach-flavouredliqueurmadefromaselectionofnutsandfruitkernels.BecarefulnottogetCrèmedeNoyeauwhichisapinkor white almond-flavoured liqueur. This sherbet is a very good foil for otherflavoursof icesandsorbetssuchas thoseof theplumfamilyandsoft fruit icecreams.

Mixthesugarsyrup,Noyau/auxandlemonjuicetogetherandchill.Whenready,addthemilk,stirringthemixturebriskly.Finallyaddthebitter

almondessence,usingafinemetalskewer.Tasteand,ifliked,addanotherdropofextract.

Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Serve within 1 hour or, if frozen solid, allow 30 minutes in the fridge to

softensufficientlyforserving.

OliveOilGelatoAsurprisingnumberofoliveoil ice-creamrecipesofferedto thepublic innewbooksandmagazinesrequirealargenumberofyolksorwholeeggs,whichareusedtomakean‘uncooked’icecream.Yes,itisquicker,butitstillseemsariskypracticenowadays.Alsomosthavequiteahighsugarcontent,whichisashame

becauseitmasksthegreenflavoursofoliveoil.Trythisone;minimalsugaranddefinitely‘cooked’.WechosetouseArbequinaasagoodmiddle-of-the-roadoil,both in price, flavour and availability. It makes a silky-textured, ratheryellow/greenicecream.GoodwithMediterraneanfruits,e.g.raworbakedfigs,peaches and apricots, rather than served on its own. An inspired taster hassuggestedservingtheicecreamwithpanforteortoastedpanettone.

Inamediumsizesaucepancombine thesugar,waterandmilkandbring to theboil.Inaseparatebowlbeattheeggyolksuntilfrothy.Continuebeatingwhilstpouring in thecombinedliquids ina thinstreamthenreturn themixture to thepan.Carryonstirringwiththepanoveralowtomoderate(oryoumaychoosetouseadoublesaucepanfor thisstage)heatuntil thecustard thickensor reaches85°C/185°F.Immediatelytransferthepantositincoldwateruntilcold.Stirintheoliveoilandwhenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).

Serve within 1 hour or, if frozen solid, allow 30 minutes in the fridge tosoftensufficientlyforserving.

OrangeIceCreamThecombinationoforangejuice,boiledtoreduceandconcentrate theflavour,and finely grated fresh orange zest added to the cooling custard gives anexcellentbalanceofintensitywithfreshnessofflavour.Onestageistediousbutimportant;removeallthewhitepithfromthestrips

oforangezest,ortheicecreamislikelytohaveanunderlyingbitterness.

Thoroughlyscrubtheorangesinwarmsoapywater,thenrinseanddry.Usingasharppotatopeeler,removeonlythecolouredpartofthezestfrom2oranges.Ifsomewhite pith comes awaywith the zest, this should be shaved off using asharpknifealmostflatagainstthepeel.Putthestripsofzestinasmallsaucepanwiththemilkandhalfthecream.Bringslowlytotheboilthenremovefromtheheat,coverandleaveononesideforaminimumof30minutes.

Bringtheorangepeelinfusionbacktojustbelowboilingpoint,strainandusetomake the custard according to the recipe forStandardFrenchVanilla IceCreampage72.

Whilethecustardcoolsfinelygratethezestfromtheremainingorangeintoit.

Squeezethejuicefromallthreeoranges(about250ml/1cup/8floz).Strainthisintoasaucepanandboiluntilreducedbyhalf.Stirthisalsointothecoolingcustard.

Whencold,coverwithacircleoflightlybutteredgreaseproofpaperandleavetochillinthefridge.

Whenready,addthechilledcream,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).

Serve within 1 hour or, if frozen solid, allow 30 minutes in the fridge tosoftensufficientlyforserving.

OrangeIceCreamwithFreshDatesDates and oranges always have been perfect partners – it is the freshness offlavourofboththatisremarkableinthisicecream.

Skin,halveandpitthedates.Quarterthefruitlengthways,andthensliceacrossfinely.Sprinklethepiecesofdateintothestill-frozenorchurningicecream.Stircarefullyorleavetochurnfor3or4revolutionsuntilevenlydistributedintheicecream.Thenstorepage81.Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

OrangeSorbetOranges vary considerably in flavour and this recipe aims to get the absolutemaximumflavouravailablefromanytypeoforange.Toheightentheflavouraddsomefinelygratedorangezesttothesorbetmix

before chilling, the zest looks great in the sorbet when frozen. We useicing/confectioners sugar rather than sugar syrup to reduce the water andmaintaintheorangeflavour.

Thoroughlyscrubanddrytheoranges.Useazestertoremoveonlythestripsoforange-colouredskinNOTthewhitepart,fromthreeoftheoranges,thenchopverysmalltoaboutthetextureofcastersugar.Setaside.

Squeezetheoranges.Positionafinesieveoverabowlandstraintheorangejuice. Whisk in the sugar about 50 g/¼ cup/2 oz at a time. Add the finelychoppedzest andchill in the fridge.When ready, tasteandadd lemon juice, atablespoonfullatatime,untilyougetaclearorangeflavour

Thenwhenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin 1 hour or, if frozen solid, allow 30 minutes in the fridge to softensufficientlyforserving.

SevilleOrange(BitterOrange)SorbetOne of our all-time favourites. Sadly, this is a very seasonal recipe. FrozenSevilleorangesdonotrespondtozestingandjuicing.

Thoroughlyscrubanddrytheoranges.Useazestertoremoveshort,thinstripsofzestfrom2oftheoranges;alternativelyfinelygratethem.Squeezethejuicefrom all the oranges and the lemon and strain through a plastic sieve into ameasuringjug.Addthesugarsyrupandmakeupto750ml/3cups/24flozwithcoldwater.Addthezest.Chillintherefrigerator.

Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Serve within 1 hour or, if frozen solid, allow 30 minutes in the fridge to

softensufficientlyforserving.NOTE:Make sure all the strips of zest are removed from the paddle of the

machineandincorporatedintothesorbet.

Fresh-TastingOrangeYoghurtIceCreamOmitthelemonsfromtherecipeforFresh-TastingLemonYoghurtIceCream(seepage179)andsubstitutethefollowing.

FollowingtherecipeforFresh-TastingLemonYoghurtIceCream,preparetheoranges in the same manner and liquidise the peel with the sugar so that itbecomesasfineasthesugar.

Squeeze the juicefromtheoranges,strainandput intoasmallnon-reactivesaucepan. Boil gently until reduced to just under half the quantity, about 6-7Tbsp.Cool.

Follow the method for making Fresh-Tasting Lemon Yoghurt Ice Cream,stirring together the flavoured sugar, reduced orange juice, lemon juice andyoghurt.

Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

OrangeBlossomSorbetThisismadewithorangeblossom(orflower)waterwhichisthedistillationoforangeflowers.Thesevaryconsiderablyinquality,sogoforthebest.

In a largemeasuring jug combine the sugar syrup,water, orange flowerwaterandthestrainedjuiceofthelemon.Chillinthefridge.

Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

PanforteGelatoMincemeat ice cream has been quite popular recently. We have reservationsaboutthisbecauseeatingfrozenfat(suet)doesnotappeal.Soweofferpanfortegelato as well as Christmas Cake Ice Cream (page 135), as recommendedalternatives.Panforte,aspecialityofSienna, isafruitandspicecakebut fashionedina

disk about 1½ cm/¾ in thick. It comes wrapped in thick white paper and isavailableinItaliandelicatessens.Thespices,driedfruitsandMarsalamakethisareallyChristmasgelato.Serve with dried figs poached in coffee or on top of a hot baked cooking

apple.

*DonotuseMarsalawithegg(conuova).

**Thepaperonthebaseofthepanforteisusuallyricepaperthatisedible,howeverthepaperthatisaroundtheedge,whichisusuallyprintedwiththemaker’sname,needstoberemovedanddiscarded.

Make according to the recipe forStandard ItalianGelatopage75.Once thecustardhascooled,coverandchillinthefridge.

Whenready,addtheMarsala,tasteandaddmoreifliked.Theneitherstillorstirfreeze(page80).Whilethecustardisfreezingdicethepanforte,notlargerthan0.5cm/¼inchdiceandthenfoldintothefreshlymadegelato.Thenstore(page81).

Serve within 1 hour or, if frozen solid, allow 30 minutes in the fridge tosoftensufficientlyforserving.

PassionFruitSorbetAfruitwithafragrant,penetratingflavourwhichhasnoequal;itissuperb.Theonlywaytomakeabadpassionfruitsorbetistomakeittoostrong.Ifthesorbetistobemadealmostimmediatelypassoverthesmooth-skinnedpassionfruitandgo for the gently wrinkled as these will be riper, sweeter and more fragrant.Smooth fruit will ripen (i.e. wrinkle) if kept at room temperature for severaldays,oronetotwoweeksinafridge.Servethisaspartofaselectionoftropicalfruit sorbets e.g.GuavaandLime (see page165) andLychee and Lime (seepage186).

Workingoverafoodprocessororblendercuteachpassionfruitinhalfandusea

teaspoon to scoop out the seedy pulp into the container. Set the machine inmotionandpourinthemeasuredsugarsyrup.Continuetoblendforafurther15secondsthenswitchoff.Haveaplasticsieveready,positionedoverabowl.Pourthepassionfruitpureeintothesieve,andthenrubthroughuntilonlytheseedsremain. (Liquidising thepulpmakes the fleshcomeapart fromtheseedsmoreeasilysosievingismadesimpler.)Stirinthestrainedlemonjuice.Themixturecannowbefrozen,orcoveredandrefrigerateduntilrequired.

Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

Pea&MintSavouryIceCreamOneofour favouritesavoury icecreams.Thesweetnessof thepeas is tosomeextentoffsetbythelacticflavourofcreamcheeseandsharpenedbylemonjuice.If servedwith a dollop of salted fromage fraismixedwith snipped chives, thebalanceisperfect.Italsomakesanexcellentlightlunchonahotsummer’sdayservedasagarnishinchilledsoupsuchaslettuce,tomatoandbuttermilk.Ladlethesoupintolargeshallowsoupdishes,puttwoorthreequenelles(orscoops)ofthesavouryiceinthecentreofeachportionandtopwiththefromagefrais.

NOTE:Theuseofaliquidiser/blenderisspecifiedinthemethodasthiswillgiveasmootherconsistencythanafoodprocessor.Sievethemixtureifusingafoodprocessor.Put thepeas into a small saucepan andpour in just sufficient boilingwater tocover.Addalittlesaltandbringbacktotheboil;cookfor5minutesthendecantthecontentsofthepanintoasieve.Sluicewithcoldwateranddrainthoroughly

beforetransferringthepeastoaliquidiserorblender.Blend in short bursts, stopping frequently to scrape down the sides of the

liquidiser goblet. For a really smooth-textured ice cream the peas should besievedatthispoint.Ifyoudecideagainstthisratherfinickystage,makesureyouliquidise thepeas as thoroughlyasyoucanbefore adding thecrumbledcreamcheeseandlemonjuice.Blenduntilsmooththenfinallyaddthechoppedmint,salt and sugar and whipping cream. Liquidise just long enough to mixthoroughlyandnomore,thenpourintoaplasticfreezerbox(21×16×6cm/8×6×2½inches).Coverandfreezefor30minutes.Useaforktoscrapethefrozenmixfromthebaseandsidesofthecontainer;beatintotherestofthemixuntilsmooth,thencoverandrefreezefor1furtherhour.Putintoafoodprocessorandprocessforabout10secondsuntilsmooth.Refreezeuntiljustsufficientlysofttoserve,about1hour.Iffrozensolid,allowabout20minutesinthefridgetosoftenbeforeserving.Servecutintoslices.

Peach&HyssopIceCreamOne of the lesser-known herbs but one that is attractive and easy to grow.However, on first inspection it is not inspiring. It has a strong, sour, spicycamphor-type smell; rather medicinal. The flavour is bitter and consideredslightlyminty.Allinall,notthesortofherbtogowithpeaches,youwouldthink,yetinacuriouswayitblendswithpeachesandapricotsandbooststheirflavour.Sinceitisalsoreputedtoaiddigestionoffat,whatbetterwayinwhichtouseitthaninanicecream?

Theherbcaneitherbeusedtoinfusethemilk,ortheleaveschoppedandaddedto the custard before churning. For an infusion, bruise 2 sprigs of hyssop byrollingwitharollingpin.Bringtoaboilinthemilkthencoverandleaveasideforabout1hour.Re-heatthemilkandstrainbeforeusingtomakeacustard.Or,add1tspofchoppedhyssopleavestothecustardbeforefreezing.

Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

PeachorNectarineIceCreamTheflavourofmostfruiticecreamsandsorbetsreliesheavilyonthefruitbeingfullyripe.Thisisparticularlysowithpeachicecream.SadlyitisverydifficulttogetripepeachesinBritainandinsomepartsofAmerica.‘Readytoeat’onesareoften not and anyway are far too expensive a delicacy to be pulped in an icecream.Furthermoreif theyareonthefirmside,don’tbuypeachesinthehopethat theywillripen.Experiencehasshownthat theyremain firmforup to twodaysthen,verysuddenly,theyshrivelandrot.Nectarinesgenerallyhaveabetterflavour,arecheaperandwillripenslightlyifkeptforadayortwo.Asfarasicecreamsandsorbetsareconcernedeitherfruitcanbeused,butnectarinesseemtousabetterchoice.

Using the abovequantities ofmilk, sugar and eggyolks (usingvanilla extractinstead of a bean), prepare and cook a custard according to the method formakingStandardFrenchVanillaIceCreamseepage72.

Whilethecustardiscooling,peelthepeachesornectarinesbyimmersinginboiling water for about 1 minute. Slip off the skins, halve the peaches anddiscardthestones, thenslicethefruit intoafoodprocessororblender,addthelemon juice and blend very briefly so that the fruit remains in definite bits.Coverandchillthefruitpulpandcustard.

When ready, combine the custard, cream and pulp and either still or stirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

Peach&PralineIceCream

Crushthepraline,nottoofinely,inapestleandmortaroruseasmallbowlandtheendofarollingpin.Eithermethodismoresatisfactorythanafoodprocessorwhich tends torunawaywithyouandreduce thepraline topowder.Make thePeach orNectarine IceCream.As the churned ice cream is put into plasticfreezerboxes,sprinklewiththepraline,stirtodistributeevenly,thencoverandfreeze.

BelliniSorbetHarry’sBarinVeniceisthehomeofthefamousBellinicocktail,acombinationofpeachesandProsecco.IfyoucannotfindProseccouseadryCava;butstickwith Prosecco if you have a strong sense of tradition and/or a good winemerchant.

Skin thepeachesby immersing theminboilingwater forup to1minute, thendrainandcoolforashortwhilebeforeslippingofftheskins.Cuteachfruitinto6or8,discardingthestone.Putthefruitinafoodprocessororblenderwiththesugarsyrupandblenduntilsmooth.Positionasieveoverabowlandstrainthepeachpuree,thenstirinthestrainedlemonjuice.Coverandchillinthefridge.

WhenreadystirinthechilledProseccoorCavatheneitherstillorstirfreezeand store (pages 80 to 81). Serve within 1 hour or, if frozen solid, allow 30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

PearIceCreamYouhavetowaitonthepearsinordertomakeagoodpearicecream.Chooseaflavourful variety,Williams, Bartlett and Comice are good because they haveflavourwithoutgranulation.Getthemhome,andthensettledowntowait–thereisnootherway.Forthebest-flavouredicecreamtheyneedtobecaughtattheirpeak,thatstagewhentheyaresojuicy,thecutpearssliparoundlikesmallwetfishesasyoutrytopreparethem.NOTE:Whenpearsaresoperfectlyripeitmayseemashametocookthem,

butitisnecessarytomakesurethepearsareheatedtoboilingpointinordertodestroy theenzyme(polyphenoloxidase)whichcauses themtobrown.Chilling(i.e. below 4°C/39°F) only slows down the action of this enzyme; it does notdestroy it as heat does. So the colour of the ice creamwould continue to getbrowner,albeitveryslowly,thelongertheicecreamwasstored.

Selectapanlargeenoughtotaketheslicedpearsinasinglelayer.Putthewaterinto the pan and have this heated, ready to take the pears directly they areprepared.Peel,quarterandcoreeachpearthenslicequicklyintothehotwater.Transfertotheheat,coverandcookfor1-2minutesoruntilthepearsarepipinghot throughout.Remove thepan from theheat and leave covereduntil cooledslightly.Transferthecontentsofthepantoafoodprocessororblenderandblend

untilsmooth.Pour thepuree intoa smallbowlandpushapieceofclingfilmdown to lie

directlyontopofthepuree.Sealtheclingfilmtotheedgeandupthesideofthebowltocutoutasmuchairaspossible,thenputinthefridgetochill.

MakeaccordingtotherecipeforStandardFrenchVanillaIceCreampage72. However, replace the milk with the whipping cream and continue as perinstructions.Oncethecustardhascooled,coverandchillinthefridge.

Whenready,combinethechilledpearpureetheneitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).

Serve within 1 hour or, if frozen solid, allow 30 minutes in the fridge tosoftensufficientlyforserving.

DriedPearIceCreamAspreviouslyremarkedinthisbook,pearsareparticularlytrickytocatchatthepeakofripeness.Thisisanalternative.Althoughbynomeansthesameasfreshpeartheflavourisgood,thankstotheeau-de-vie.

Althoughostensiblysoft,brieflycookingthepearshelpsbringouttheflavourso

putthepearsinasmallpanwiththesyrupandbringtotheboil.Boilgentlyforaminuteortwothenremovepanfromtheheat,coverandleavetocool.

Transferthecontentsofthepantoaprocessor/liquidiser.Addtheadditionalmeasuredwaterandprocessfor2to3minutes;ittakesquiteawhiletoreducetoevenarough-texturedpuree,sokeepgoingforthesuggestedtime.Chill inthefridge.

When ready, stir in thecreamand thenadd3 tablespoonsof theeau-de-vieandtaste,addmoreifpreferredtheneitherstillorstir freezeandstore (pages80to81).

Serve within 1 hour or, if frozen solid, allow 30 minutes in the fridge tosoftensufficientlyforserving.

PearSorbet

Peel,coreandslicepearsandslipintothesimmeringsugarsyruptowhichthevanilla bean has been added. Simmer for about 5-10 minutes very gently.Liquidisebrieflyandallowtocool.Addthewaterandthestrainedlemonjuice.Coverandchillinthefridge.

Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

PearGranitaMakeexactlyaccordingtotheinstructionsformakingPearSorbet(seeabove)butaddanadditional375ml/½cups/12 flozofwater.Chill thoroughly in thefridge.

FordetailedinstructionsonhowtoprepareGranitaseepage71.

RedBellPepper&BlackPepperGranitaThissavourygranitaismadewithapureeofroastedredpeppers,spikedwithagenerousamountofgroundblackpepper.Topreparetheredpeppers,grillthemwholeuntilblackenedallover,thenleavetocool.Workoverabowltocatchthejuiceswhile skinning and seeding them. It is fiddly but try to pick out all theseedswithout resorting to rinsing the peppers andwashing away some of theflavour.

Prepare the peppers as described in the introduction. In a small saucepancombinethesugarandwater.Bringslowlytotheboil,stirringoccasionallyuntilthe sugarhasdissolved.Remove thepan from theheat and leave the syrup tocool. Put the skinned and seeded peppers in a food processor or blenderwiththeir juices, add the syrupandblenduntil smooth.Pour thepuree into abowlandmixinthestrainedlemonjuice,saltandafairlygenerousamountoffreshlymilledblackpepper.Tasteandadjusttheseasoningwiththelemonjuice,saltandpepperifnecessary;coverandchillinthefridge.

FordetailedinstructionsonhowtoprepareGranitaseepage71.Serving: A good palate cleanser to serve between courses or as a summer

starterwithfromagefrais.

PeppermintRockIceCreamorMintCandyCaneIceCream

Theideaofthisicecreammetwithsomeresistance,butinpracticetheflavourisdelightful.Ofcourseitisintendedmainlyforchildrenbutwefind‘children’ofallagesenjoyit.

Make the Easy No-Cook Philadelphia Vanilla Ice Cream according to therecipe,omittingthevanillabean.

When ready, either still or stir freeze (page 80). Whilst the ice cream isfreezing,crushthepeppermintrock/mintcandycaneintopiecesaboutthesizeofcoarse sea salt crystals. (Don’tdo this too faraheadof timeor the rock/candywillquicklygostickyandweldtogetherifleftoutinthehumidatmosphereofthekitchen.)

As soon as the ice cream has reached the consistency of softly whippedcream, stop the machine and quickly scrape it into plastic freezer boxesscatteringwithsomeofthecrushedrock/candybetweeneachspoonful.Givethemix 2–3 stirs with a spoon to distribute the crushed rock/candy evenlythroughoutthemix.Thenstore(page81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

PhysalisSorbetThisfruit isalsoknownasCapegooseberryorGoldenberry.Previouslyitwassold as a small round orange fruit enclosed in a papery ‘lantern’, but veryrecentlyweweresurprisedthatasupermarkethastakentosellingthesefruits,minusthe‘lantern’in225g/8ozpacks.Thesefruitsseemsmallerthantheusualwhole typeand theyare certainly cheaper, soweused them tomakea sorbet.The 225 g/8 oz quantity did not make much, but the flavour was exquisite.

Definitelyasorbetforasmallandselectdinnerparty.

Put the fruit (minuspapery skins) intoa sieveor colanderand rinsewithcoldwater,drainanddryonpapertowels.Transfertoafoodprocessor,withthesugarsyrupandlemonjuiceandprocessinshortburstsof5secondsabout5times.

Strain througha finesieve to remove theseeds;press thepulp toextractasmuchliquidaspossiblebutavoidworkingthesmallseedsthroughthesieve,astheirpresencewillspoiltheconsistencyofthesorbet.Chillinthefridge.

Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

PineappleSorbetWithMintPaulo’sSorbet1ThesetwosorbetsaretheresultofaluncheoninSaoPaulo,BrazilwithPauloSilva, at Pasta& Vino.We work with Paulo in Brazil. He asked why, in ourpreviousbook,weignoredpineapple.Thetruthiswehadnotmanagedtocomeupwith a successfulmarriage of pineapple and cream.The crispness and theaciditydidnotreallyworkinourexperiments,seechemicalexplanationbelow*.Creamaside,Paulohadadiscussionwiththechefandwithinminutesweeachwere given a glass of pineapple juicewithmint in it. Itwas sublime.Back inEnglandwestartedtestingandhavecomeupwithtwodifferentsorbets.Paulo’sSorbet1andPaulo’sSorbet2.Wecannotagreeonwhichthebestissoweareincludingthemboth.Thefirstismadewithrawpineapple,thesecondwithgrilledpineapple.They

haveaquitedifferentcharacterandflavour.Theeffectofgrillingconcentratestheflavourandtakessomeofthecuttingedgefromtheacidityofthepineapple;theresultisstronger.*ConsultingHaroldMcGee’sOnFoodandCookingthereasonforourproblemsbecame clear. Pineapple contains protein-digesting enzymes, witness the factthat yourmouth can become sore eating fresh pineapple and the fact that thejuicesareusedasameattenderizer.Themainenzyme,bromelain,breaksdownthecaseinproteinspresent inmilkproductsandproducesbitter-tastingprotein

fragments.

Wehaveuseda900g/2lbpineapple,forlargeronesadjustthesugarandmintleavesaccordingtotheinstructionsbelow.

Cutoffthetopandtailofthepineappleandcutoffallthescales.Removeanyeyesthatremain.Nowremovethecoreusinganapplecorer‘attackingit’fromboththetopandthenthebottom.Cutintoquarterstheneachquarterinto4.Putintoa foodprocessorwithhalfof the sugar syrupandwith theordinarybladeprocessuntilcompletelypulped.

Sievetoremovethefibreandpushithardthroughasieve.Returntothefoodprocessorandaddtheremainsofthesugarsyrupandthe

mintleaves,processagainandthentaste.Mint varies considerably but it must taste like pineapple sorbet with mint

NOTmintsorbetwithpineapple.Gocarefullywiththemint.Chillinthefridgeovernighttoallowtheminttastetodevelop.Whenreadyeitherstillfreeze(page80)orpourthemixtureintoanicecream

machineandchurnforabout20minutes.Ifitistobestored,quicklyscrapeinto

plasticfreezerboxes,coverwithwaxedorgreaseproofpaperanda lid.Finallylabelandfreeze.Oncetheicebecomessoliditwillneedabout15to20minutesinthefridgebeforeitissoftenoughtoserve

Forothersizepineappleswegenerallyfindthatthefollowingratioswork.

Paulo’sSorbet2In this sorbet the pineapple is cooked under the grill and makes a strongerflavourandadarkersorbetwithaquitedifferenttaste.

Wehaveuseda900g/2lbpineapple,forlargeronesadjustthesugarandmintleavesaccordingtotheinstructionsbelow.

Cutoff the topand tailof thepineappleandcutawayall theskin.Removeanyeyes that remain.Nowremove thecoreusinganapplecorer ‘attacking it’

fromboththetopandthenthebottom.Afterremovingthecoreslicethroughtogive6rings.Puttheringsonagrill

panonatraymadebyfoldingcookingfoilthatisthesizeofthe6rings.Thisistocatchthejuice.

Sprinklethesugaronthepineappleringsonlyandgrillcloselyunderaveryhotgrillfor8-10minutesuntilthesugarisbeginningtocarameliseandbrown.

Transfer the pineapple and the juices to a food processor with 250 ml/1cup/8flozofthesugarsyrupandprocessuntilitiscompletelypulped.

Sievetoremovethefibreandpushithardthrough.Returntothefoodprocessorandaddtheremainsofthesugarsyrup,thewater

andthemintleaves.Processuntilthemintleavesareintinypieces.Chillinthefridgeovernighttoallowthetastetodevelop.Whenready,stillfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Serve within 1 hour or, if frozen solid, allow 30 minutes in the fridge to

softensufficientlyforserving.Forothersizepineappleswegenerallywefindthatthefollowingratioswork.

PistachioGelatoOneofthethingswemostdislikeaboutcommercialicesistheluridcolourtheytendtomakethem,especiallypistachio.Itisquitecommontoseeittintedtoanalmostflorescentgreenwithartificialcolouring.Admittedlyinrealitythecolouroftheproperlymadepistachioicecreamispoor;somethinglikepulpedavocadoleftinthefridgeovernight,asortofinsipidgreen/brown.Whenweseethisicecream in something approaching a normal colour we always try it on thegrounds that it might actually be made with pistachios. Because the nut isexpensive many manufacturers rely heavily on both essence, colour and

pistachiopaste.We have found that if you skin the nuts you will be rewarded with a pale

delicategreen;ifyoudonotskinthemthegelatowillbeaslightlydarkercolour,butneverthecommercialluridgreencolour.Whenyougetthenutstastethemfirst.Ifyouwanttoincreasetheintensityof

theflavourtoast thembriefly1-2minutesunderthegrill, thiswill increasetheflavourintensitybutthecoloursuffers.

Put the nuts into a food processor and process until they resemble finebreadcrumbsandsetaside.

Make thegelatoaccording to the instructions forStandardGelatoonpage75.Whenmadeandwhile stillhotadd thegroundpistachionutsandallow tocool.Thenchillinthefridgeovernight.

Whenready,carefullysievethechilledmixturetheneitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).

Serve within 1 hour or, if frozen solid, allow 30 minutes in the fridge tosoftensufficientlyforserving.

Becausewehavebeenhammeredbyartificialflavoursyouwillbesurprisedbythedelicacyof therealMcCoy,soserve thisgelatoon itsown.Weusuallyserve 3 smallish scoops in a bowl with a shortbread biscuit or almondwaferproppedupbetweenthescoops.

NOTE: Eric b Ryan Birley who own The Franklin Soda Fountain inPhiladelphiarecentlyproducedapistachioicecreamatanice-creamconvention.Thiswasoneofthebestwehaveevertasted.Theysaidthattheirsecretwastoaddageneroushandfulofsaltedpistachionutstothemixjustbeforefreezing.

PlumSorbetWhenthemarketallows,orifyouplanyourfreezing,itmakesaprettyeffectandinterestingeatingtoserveatrilogyofplumsorbets;darkpurple-skinned,yellowandgreen.Ifyouconfineyourselftoonevarietythesorbetcanbeservedwithalittle plum brandy or eau de vie or with Noyau Sherbet see page 193 andAlmondTuilesseepage279ormacaroons.

Rinse, thenhalveandstone theplumsandeithermicrowave inacovereddishwith 1 Tbsp of water until tender, or cook gently, covered, in a non-reactivesaucepanuntil tender.Whencool enough, remove the skinsby simplypickingthemout;thenliquidisethefleshwiththesugarsyrup,andaddthelemonjuicetotaste.Transfertoajug,thencoverandchillinthefridge.

Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Serve within 1 hour or, if frozen solid, allow 30 minutes in the fridge to

softensufficientlyforserving.

PlumGranitaMakeexactlyaspertherecipeforPlumSorbet(seeabove).However,whenyouhavemadethemixtureadd375ml½cups/12flozofwater.Mixwell,coverandchillinthefridge.FordetailedinstructionsonhowtoprepareGranitaseepage71.

PlumBlushIceCreamRecentlyithasbeenalmostimpossibletobuyhome-grownplumsinBritain,sothe dark/black-skinned imported varieties have to do. Blush is a range ofCaliforniawinesbasedontheZinfandelgrape.Forabrieftimethewhitegrapejuice is left in contact with the black skin of the grapes to produce a rose-colouredwine.Thisislightandfreshwithquiteaberryfruitflavour–idealforpairingwithplumswhoseflavourcanbeelusiveinicecream.

Wash, halve, stone and cut each plum into 6 or 8. Put the fruit into amediumsizedpan,pourinthewineandbringtotheboil.Lowertheheattogivea gentle simmer then cover and cook gently for 10 minutes, stirring once ortwiceduringthistime.Whencooked,removethepanfromtheheat,coolalittlethenwhirltoarathercoarse-texturedpulpinafoodprocessororblender.Coverandchillinthefridge.

Using the above quantities of cream, egg yolks, sugar and vanilla extract,makeaccordingtotherecipeforStandardFrenchVanillaIceCreampage72.Oncethecustardhascooled,coverandchillinthefridge.

Whenready,combine thechilledplumpulpand thecustardandcream,and

theneitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Serve within 1 hour or, if frozen solid, allow 30 minutes in the fridge to

softensufficientlyforserving.NOTE:Adropofalmondextractmaybeadded.

PomegranateSorbetAremarkableflavour,andifyouusethepomegranatesthathaveapositivepinkorcrimsonflesh,ratherthanthosewhicharealmostwhite,thissorbetwillbeaglorious fuchsia red. Frances Bissell, a cookery writer who has a talent formarryingflavours,suggestsservingapomegranatesorbetwithfreshfigs.Sheisright;itisaverysuccessfulcombination.

Halveandsqueezethejuicefromthepomegranatesasyouwouldacitrusfruit,using a lemon squeezer.Any debris retained in the lemon squeezer should betransferred into a plastic sieve positioned over a bowl; then, either manuallysqueezethepulporpressithardtoextractthelastofthejuice;thereshouldbeabout 500ml/2 cups/16 fl oz. Stir the sugar and strained lemon juice into thepomegranatejuice,thencoverandchillinthefridge.

Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

PoppySeedGelatoPoppyseedshavebeencultivatedforover3000years,andtheyaretheseedsoftheplant thatproducesopiumbutwhileopiumisderivedfromtheunripeseedcapsulesofthepoppy,theseedsareproducedwhentheflowerhasbloomedanddied.One of the smallest seeds used in cooking, there are almost onemillionpoppyseedstothepound(450g).Notalotofpeopleknowthat.We were surprised by the emphatic flavour of this gelato. It has a readily

identifiable nutty, poppy seed flavour and does not need any additional prop(usuallyalmond)tohelpit.Serve with a plain shortbread biscuit or warm lemon sponge cake or it is

goodcombinedwithappleoralmondorapricotices.

Blend the cornflour/cornstarch and sugar with a little of the measured milk.Bring the rest of the milk and poppy seeds to the boil. Pour onto thecornflour/cornstarch blend and return to the pan. Bring back to the boil andsimmerfor2-3minutes.

Allowtochillforatleast12hoursorovernighttolettheflavourdevelop.Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin

1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

Prune&EarlGreyTeaSorbetPrunes and tea are a wonderful combination, not unknown. The trouble is itsoundsa triflegeriatricandsomightputpeopleoff.Perhapswecansell it toyouonthebackofthehealthbenefits.

Inameasuringjugputtheteabagsandthesugarsyrup,stirwellandthenleavein the refrigerator for at least 12 hours. This slow, steady-but-sure methodextractstheflavourwithoutthetanninorscumthatoccurswhenpouringboilingwaterovertea.Stiroccasionally.

Remove and discard the teabags then add the prune juice. Add the lemonjuicetotaste.Youcanaddmoreteabagsifyoulikethestrongerteaflavourbutwethinkthatthreeisaboutright.

Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.*WeuseTwiningsEarlGreyteabags.**WeuseSunsweetCalifornia100%PruneJuicewithoutaddedsugar.

Prune&EarlGreyTeaGranitaTo make a granita take a quantity of the sorbet mixture (page 210) beforefreezing and add an equal quantity of cold water. Follow the detailedinstructionsonhowtoprepareaGranitapage71.

SpicedPumpkinIceCream

Ifyoulikepumpkinpieyouwilllikethisicecream.Don’tworryaboutthetypeofpumpkintouse.Whateverthecolourorshapeofpumpkins,theyallseemtotastethesame, thoughbeprepared forwastage.Cutagenerous-sizedwedge(about700-900g/1½to2lbs).Scrapeawayalltheseedsandwoollystrands,sliceintosmaller wedges then into good-sized chunks, removing the rind as you go.Preferredmethodofcookingissteamingoversimmeringwateruntiltenderthenleavetocoolalittlebeforepureeinginafoodprocessororblender.Theflavourispreferabletothatofcannedpumpkin.

Using the above quantities of milk, sugar and egg yolks prepare and cook acustard according to the method for making Standard French Vanilla IceCreampage72,whisking thevanillaextractand thespices into theyolksandsugarbeforeaddingthehotmilk.

Once the cooked custard has cooled in a coldwater bath, beat in the coldpumpkinpureeandcream.Tasteandaddthebrandyandmorespiceifpreferredthencoverandchillinthefridge.

Whenready,addthechilledcream,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).

Serve within 1 hour or, if frozen solid, allow 30 minutes in the fridge tosoftensufficientlyforserving.

PunchRomainePunch (see Glossary page 298), became the classic palate cleanser servedbetweencourses in lateGeorgian,VictorianandEdwardian times. Itwaseven

printedinadvanceonmenusthatwereotherwisehandwritten.PunchWaterIcefirstappearsinFrederickNutt(1809)asawatericeandit

containsoranges,lemons,sugarandrum.However, regarding Ponche á la Romaine, Roman Punch, according to

WilliamJarrininTheItalianConfectioner,1820:-‘This receipt has long been a desideratum of the amateur, but since its

inventionithasbeeninfewhandsonly.FromRomeitwasbroughttoParis,andfromParis to London andwas known to a few private confectioners only.M.Molas,whowasintheserviceoftheEmpressJosephine,wifeofNapoléon;andwho, after the death of his mistress, went into the service of Prince Lieven,AmbassadorofRussiainLondon,broughtwithhimthereceipt,andwasthefirsttointroduceit.FromhimtheAuthor(Jarrin)obtainedthisreceipt.’Jarrin’srecipeincludedeggwhites,rum,brandyandmaraschino.ThisrecipebelowwastheoneusedatTheHindsHeadinBrayfortheMrs

Marshall Luncheon in 2005 to commemorate her 150th birthday and thecentenaryofherdeath.AftermanyexperimentswithvariousrecipesbyHestonBlumenthal,helikedthisrecipethebest.Attheluncheonthepunchwaspartiallyfrozenatthetableusingliquidnitrogen.

Boil the water and add the sugar, stir until dissolved. Add the remainingingredientsandallowtoinfusewhilecooling.

When cool (allow at least 1 hour) strain to remove the zest. Chill in therefrigerator.

Stillfreeze(page80)orchurninanice-creammachineuntilpartiallyfrozen.Apunchshouldbeaslushyconsistencywithsomesolidiceparticlesbutstill

pourable.Serve inaglasswitha small spoon.Saucerchampagneglassesare idealas

areantiquejellyglassesorcustardcups.

PoncheálaRegenceRegencyPunch

AnotherpunchfromJarrin.PunchwasbroughtintofashionbyThePrinceofWales,laterKingGeorgeIV.‘Hewasexcessivelyfondofthisbeverage,anditwasservedafterTurtlesoup.’Thisconsistedofvanilla,cinnamonandcloves, twocitronsandtwobitteroranges, the juiceof12

lemons,rumandbrandy‘accordingtotasteandstrengthyouwishit tobe.Passthewholethroughafinesieveoranapkin.’

QuinceSorbetIn his excellent book Cultivated Fruits of Britain: Their Origins and History,Frederick Roach writes that quinces were extensively cultivated in Britainduringthesixteenthtoeighteenthcenturieswhenthiswonderful fruitwasfullyappreciated,‘Nootherfruithavingsomanyusesbothformeatdishesandsweetcourses.’He observes that ‘the decline of the quince seems to have coincidedwiththeincreaseincultivationofsoft fruits,particularly thestrawberry.’Well,now the strawberry is ubiquitous and quinces are hard to find. OccasionallyAmerican or Cypriot imports appear in British shops but these are a paleshadowof theBritishquincevarieties. If necessary,beg,borrowor steal yourneighbour’s quinces in order to get the exquisite aroma and remarkable tastethatisunlikeanyotherfruit.Servethesorbetwithpearandappleicecreamorsorbets.NOTE:Tostorequincesinthefreezer:peel,quarterandremovethecore,then

blanchfor2minutesinboilingwater,allowtocoolanddryonawirerack,thenfreezeintightlysealedplasticbags.Thesecanbestoredforupto1yearinthefreezer.

Peel,quarter andcore thequinces.Donotworry if theyarediscolouredor anunevencolour,thisisnormal.Puttheminanon-reactivesaucepanwiththesugarsyrup, coverwitha lid,heat toboilingpoint, then simmergently for about15minutesoruntiltender.

Liquidisetoasmoothpulpthenrubthroughafinesievetoremovesomeofthe coarse granular texture of the quince which would otherwise coarsen thetextureofthesorbet.

Chillinthefridge.Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allowupto60minutesinthefridgeto

softensufficientlyforserving.Thisisbecausequincescontainahighproportionofpectin,asettingagentsoimportantinjammaking.

RaspberryIceCreamThis is one of the very few ices where we suggest adding gelatine. This isbecause there isa largeamountofwater inraspberriesandgelatine improvesthetextureofthefinishedicecream.

Liquidise the raspberries with the sugar and strain through a nylon sieve toremovethepips(youcanleavetheminifyoulikethetexturethatthepipsgivethe finished ice cream).Dissolve the gelatine in the hotwater and add to thepureewiththelemonjuiceandframboise,ifused.Theframboiseisoptionalbutsometimeshelpstheflavouroftheraspberries.Chillinthefridge.

Whenready,combinethechilledpureewiththecreamandtheneitherstillorstir freezeandstore (pages80 to81).Servewithin1hour or, if frozen solid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

RaspberrySorbetThiscanbemadewitheitherfreshorfrozenraspberriessokeepsomehandyinthefreezerinthewinter.

Pick over the raspberries, carefully discarding any suspect fruit. Transfer theberriestoafoodprocessororblender,pourinthemeasuredsyrupandblendtoauniformpulp.Havereadyaplasticsievepositionedoverabowl.Strainthepulp,rubbingtheresiduethroughuntilallthatremainsaretheseeds.Addthestrainedlemonjuice,stir,coverandchillinthefridge.

Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

RaspberrySpoomThis spoom can be made with either fresh or frozen raspberries, making it awonderfulstand-bydessertforthewinter.

Liquidisetheraspberriesinafoodprocessororaliquidiserwiththesugarsyrupand sieve through amedium sieve.We prefer our raspberries un-sieved. Addlemonjuicetotaste.Chillinthefridge.

Inalargegrease-freebowlbeattheeggwhiteswithahand-heldbeateruntiltheyformsoftpeaks,and thengraduallyadd thesugaruntil it isabsorbedandthe egg whites are in fairly stiff peaks. They need to be stiff enough toincorporatethepureebutnotsostiffthatyoucannotfoldinthepuree.

Fold into the chilledpureemaking sure that thepuree is completelymixedwiththeeggwhites,thentransfertoaplasticfreezerboxandcoverwithapieceofgreaseproofpaperorfreezerfilmandalid.Finallylabel,andthenfreeze.Eatafterabout2hours,oriffrozensolid,allowabout10-20minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlytoserve.

Raspberry&CiderVinegarGranitaThisrecipegrewoutofdefault.Theoriginalintentionwastomakearaspberryvinegar sorbet, but the bought varieties of raspberry vinegar varied betweenquestionable and plain bad so the idea evolved that we should try freshraspberries with a good cider vinegar added. The flavour was so fresh anddelightful itseemedtobebettersuited toagranitarather thatasorbet.Useagood,straightforwardcidervinegar–nothingfermentedinoakvatsbecausetheflavour is old, rather than fresh and apple-y. The brandwe used called itselfNormandy Apple Cider Vinegar. Or you could use rice vinegar (Chinese orJapanese) or verjus (French or Australian). A very pretty, very refreshinggranitathatcarriesalatentkick.

Puttheraspberriesinacolanderandsittheminalargebowlofcoldwater.Liftthe sieve quickly in and out of the water about 6 times to rinse the fruitthoroughly without bruising the berries. Drain and turn out onto a doublethickness of kitchen paper then tilt and roll the berries around. Transfer to aliquidiserorblenderandaddthesugarsyrup.Blendforabout10secondsthenrubthepureethroughafinesieveintoabowl.Addthecidervinegarandwater.StirandmakeaccordingtotherecipeforGranita(page71).

RedcurrantGranitaThereissomethingaltogetherclearandcrystallineaboutthecolourandtasteofredcurrants,andsoitisaptthattheymakeamoresatisfactorygranitathanicecreamorsorbet.Servejustonitsowninatallglassorinashallowbowl.Ifyouprefer,spoonoveralittlevodkaorginjustbeforeserving.

Workingoveracolanderorsievestriptheredcurrantsfromthestalksusingtheprongsofafork,discardingalldamagedorsmall,under-ripeberries.Rinsewithcoldwater,drainandtiptheredcurrantsintoasaucepan.Pourinthe375ml/11/2cups/12 fl oz of water, and simmer gently, uncovered, until the berries haveburst.

Processbrieflyinafoodprocessororblenderthenrubthroughaplasticsievetoremovethepips.Stirthesugarsyrupandstrainedlemonjuiceintothepuree,coverandtransfertothefridgetochill.

FordetailedinstructionsonhowtoprepareGranitaseepage71.

RHUBARBWe once had a memorable dessert at Auberge de L’ill, at Illhaeusern thatconsistedofeightdifferentminiaturerhubarbdessertsonaplate.Abrilliantideaforthishumbleandoftenforgottenfruit.Amongtheeightwerebotharhubarbsorbetandarhubarbicecream.

VanillaIceCreamMarbledwithChampagneRhubarb

Chooseyoungpink/redstems,nottoothinbutnomorethanthumb-thick;nevergreen.Marblingtheicecreamwithrhubarbhastheeffectofbeingabletotastethetwoflavoursclearlyatthesametime.

Cuttherhubarbinto2cm/¾inchlengthsandputtheminasmallsaucepanwiththewater.Bring toasimmer,coverandcookgently,stirringoccasionallyuntiltherhubarbistender.Removethepanfromtheheatandstirinthesugar.Processonlybrieflyinafoodprocessororblender;itisbetteriftherhubarbkeepssometexture.Transfertoabowl,coverandchill.MaketheStandardFrenchVanillaIceCream(seepage72),stillfreezingorchurning(seepage80)untilitistheconsistencyofsoftlywhippedcream.

Putalternatespoonfulsoficecreamandrhubarbpulpinaplasticfreezerboxthenfold the twomixtures togetherbrieflyso thatclearseamsofrhubarbpulpare still discernible throughout the vanilla ice cream. Smooth the surface andthenstore(page81).

RhubarbSorbet

Cuttherhubarbinto2cm/¾inchlengthsandputtheminasmallsaucepanwiththewater.Bringtoasimmer,coverandcookgently,stirringoccasionally,untilthe rhubarb is tender.Leave to cool before transferring to a foodprocessor orblender.Pourinthesugarsyrupandblenduntilsmooth.Sievethepureeintoabowlandaddthelemonjuice.Coverandchillinthefridge.

Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

Servewithalittlegingerwinedrizzledover.

RiceIceCreamMrs Marshall in her Book of Ices (1885) features a rice ice cream whichcontainsbay leaves,cinnamonand lemonpeel. InherbookFancyIces(1894)flavouringsforariceicecreambecomeevenmorecomplicatedwitharecipeforSicilianicecreamcontainingcoriander,cinnamon,whiterum,rosewater,citronpeel,shreddedgingeranddriedcherries.Needlesstosaywithalltheseadditionsthedelicateflavourofthericeislost,

whichisagreatshame.InItaly,oneofthecountrieswherethisicecreamisstillregularly made, it occasionally has such additions as candied cherries andoranges,toastedalmondsandrum,whichyoucanaddifyouseefit.Butyouwillalsogetriceicecreamservedtoyou,unadornedsaveforaflavouringofvanillaandperhapsachilled fruit sauce.This is toeat itat itsbestandenjoy the icecreamforwhatitis.ThefirstriceicecreamwehavefounddatesfromEmyin1768,andtheyare

stillpopularinItaly.

Rinsetherice,drainandputinthetophalfofadoublesaucepanwiththemilkand the vanilla sugar. Bring to the boil, over direct heat, stirring constantly.Transfertositoverthebasepanofsimmeringwater,coverandcontinuetocookforafurther40minutesoruntilthericeisperfectlytender.

Removethetophalfofthepanfromtheheatandleavetocool,stillcovered,until the ricemixture reaches room temperature, then transfer to the fridge tochill.

Whenready,stirthechilledcreamintothericetheneitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).

NOTEBecauseofthehighstarchcontentofthisicecreamyoumustallowitabout1hourinthefridgetosoftensufficientlytoserve.Donottrytothawitat

roomtemperature;theoutsidewillmeltwhilethecentreremainsrocksolid.

RiceIceCreamwithRum-SoakedFruitsIfyouwanttoserveaplainriceicecream,forthebestflavourwerecommendcooking the rice as outlined in the recipe above. But if you add crystallisedfruits,nutsandrumtheemphasisinflavourswitchestothese,soacanorcartonofcreamedricepuddingcanbesubstitutedverysuccessfully.Theflavourofthecandied fruitswill nowcome to the fore so, if possible, try tobuy the capsoforange,lemonandcitron,ratherthanthebrandsofreadychoppedmixedpeel.

Put the finely diced crystallised fruits into a small saucepanwith the rumandbringtosimmeringpoint.Coverandcontinuetosimmergentlyfor3-4minutesor until the peel is perfectly tender and only about 1 tablespoon of liquidremains.Leavetocool,covered.Combinewithremainingingredients,stirwell,coverandchillinthefridge.

Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

RoastedRiceGelatoMakenomistakethisrecipeisareallyworthwhilefiddlebecausetheflavourofroastedriceisabsolutelywonderful.

Soakthericefor5minutesincoldwater.Drainandspreadonafoil-linedbakingtray.Bake for30minutes in apreheatedoven350°F/180°C/GasMark4,untilthericeispalebrown.

Put the roasted rice in the tophalfofadoubleboilerwith themilkand thesugar.Bring thericeandmilk to theboiloverdirectheatand thencookforatleast40minutesinthedoubleboileruntilthericeistender.

Whentenderputthemixturedirectlyintoafoodprocessorandprocessuntilthericeisassmoothaspossible.Allowtocoolandrefrigerateovernight.

When ready, add the cream and then either still or stir freeze and store(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

RicottaIceCreamWe had reservations about basing an ice cream on so delicate a flavour asricotta,butweresurprisedhowsuccessfulitprovedtobe.Boththeflavourandthetextureareclearlyricotta.

Using the above quantities of milk, sugar and egg yolks, prepare and cook acustard according to the method for making Standard French Vanilla IceCream (see page 72), omitting the vanilla bean. While the custard is hotgraduallybeatinpiecesofthecrumbledricottaandcontinuetobeatvigorouslyuntilthecustardisalmostsmooth.(Donotworryifafewsmalllumpsremain,thesewillbebrokendowninthechurningprocess.)Tocoolthecustardquicklythepancannowbeput intoacoldwaterbath.Whencold, remove,coverandchillinthefridge.

Whenready,stirthechilledcreamandrumintothecustardtheneitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).

Serve within 1 hour or, if frozen solid, allow 30 minutes in the fridge tosoftensufficientlyforserving.

Serving:Couldbeservedonaplatefloodedwithadelicatecoffeesauce.SeeStrongCoffeeSyrup (page275).Stir about1 tspof the syrup intoabout250ml/8flozofpouringcream.

RosePetalIceCreamFor thisrecipeyouwillneedahighlyscentedrose. Itused tobe thecase thatmost new hybrid roses looked wonderful but had little or no scent. However,growers now recognise the public demand for both beauty and fragrance andthereisnownoshortageofwonderfullyfragrantvarietiesavailable.

NOTE: Please make sure you use untreated roses, i.e. unsprayed withinsecticides.

Pullthepetalsfromthe3rosesandcheckcarefullyforsignsofwildlife;thereisoftenasurprisingamount.Inasaucepancombinethepetals,milkandcreamandstirring,bringtojustbelowboilingpoint.Removethepanfromtheheat,coverandleavetoinfuse.Tasteafter10minutestoseeiftheflavourisstrongenough(how long itwill take varies considerably according to the type of rose), thenstraintoremovethepetals.

Usingtheeggyolks,vanillasugar,flavouredmilkandcreammakeaccordingto the recipe for Standard French Vanilla Ice Cream (page 72). Once thecustardhascooled,coverandchillinthefridge.

Whenready,addthechilledcream,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

Servealonescatteredwith freshorcrystallised rosepetalsorwithperfectlyripestrawberries.

NOTE:Additional tornrosepetalscanbeaddedto the icecreamat thelaststage of churning. We insist (!) that this ice cream must be served fresh,particularlyiffreshrosepetalsareaddedattheendoftherecipe.

RosewaterSorbetRosewater,adistillationofredrosepetals,hastheintenseperfumedflavourofitssource.Itdeliversintoyourmouththegloryofanold-fashionedrosegardeninfullbloom,butatthesametimehasasurprisingspicy,smokyquality,whichiswhyrosepetalsareoftenmarriedwithblendsofChinatea.Besuretobuytripledistilledrosewater(seeUsefulAddressespage324)or

beverydisappointed.

In a large measuring jug combine the sugar syrup, water, rosewater and thelemonjuice.Chillinthefridge.

Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

SA’ALABThroughouttheMiddleEastatraditionalicecreamismadeofmilk,sugar,andsomeflavouring,butinparticularcontainsthegroundrootofanorchid–Orchismascula(LINN).It is this ingredient,calledsa’alab,whichgives theicecreamits name. However, this can be confusing because regional variation anddifficulties in translationgiverise toquiteanumberofsimilarwordsmeaningthesamethinge.g.salap,salab,salepietc.But the ice cream itself is quite distinctive, having an intense whiteness, a

peculiarchewyelasticityanda faintlymetallic flavour;alldue to thesa’alab.Intrigued by this ice cream, we got more than a little confused when ourresearches turnedup farmore permutations on the quantity of sa’alab than ithadnames.MargaretShaida,authorofTheLegendaryCuisineofPersiaandanexpertonMiddleEasternfoodscametoourrescuewithadviceandinformationthatenabledustostartsortingouttheanomalies.Donotattempt to substitutecornflour for sa’alab. Itmakesaverydifferent

typeoficecream.Whilesa’alabisundeniablyadifficultingredienttofind,afewMiddleEasterndelicatessensdosellitintheformofawhitepowder(seeUsefulAddresses page 324). The search is worthwhile for the unusual dimensionsa’alabgivestotheWesternideaoficecream.

RosewaterSa’alab

Putthemilkandsugarandsa’alabintoafoodprocessororblender,andblendinshortburstsuntil the sugarhasdissolved.Add the rosewater,1 tspor to taste.Chillinthefridge.

Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1 hour or, if frozen solid, allow about 10 minutes in the fridge to softensufficientlyforserving.

VARIATIONS:Sa’alabcanbemadeplain(thatisomittingtherosewater)inwhich case it is usually served sprinkled with grated bitter chocolate or withchipsoffrozenclottedcream.

Asaffronsa’alabcanbemadebysubstitutingapinchofsaffronstrandsforthe rosewater. Soak the saffron in themilk for 30minutes before starting therecipe.

SaffronIceCreamQuiteastraightforwardicecreamtomakebutbecareful,thesaffronflavourisalittle tricky to get right. Very little saffron goes a very long way, so acorrespondinglyminute excess cangivea flavour that is downrightnasty inamedicinalway.Itmustalsobesaidthatthequalityofsaffronvaries,whetheritbeintheformoffineredstrands(properlythedriedstigmasofCrocussativus)or powder. Since the strands are more readily available, more reliable andslightly cheaper, we normally use these, and for consistency stick to a goodquality saffron fromaroundValencia in Spain.But hair-like strands of saffronareimpossibletomeasureaccuratelysoouradviceistotakeamodestpinchandproceedwiththerecipe.Shouldyouthinkthattheflavourisnotstrongenough,rather than addingmore saffron, leave the custard overnight before churning.Thiswillallowtheflavourtodeveloptoitsmaximum.Ifyouhaveoverdoneitinabigway,makeupasecondbatchofunflavoured

custardandaddittothefirst,thenchurn.

Make according to the recipe forRich FrenchVanilla Ice Cream up to thestagewherethethickenedcustardisremovedfromtheheat.Atthispointaddthesaffronstrandsandleaveasidetocool.Oncethecustardhascooled,coverandchillinthefridge.

Whenready,addthechilledcream,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

ServeinaglasswithsmallscoopsofHoneyIceCream(seepage170)andApricotSorbet(seepage92)sothatalltheflavoursmingle.

SgroppinoAVenetianinventionthatisacrossbetweenadessertandadigestive.WewereintroducedtothisrecipebyAndreasRivaofRivarestaurantinBarnes,London.ItseemsalmosteveryVenetianhashisownrecipeforsgroppinoanditstrue

originissurroundedbyunsubstantiatedmyths.

Putall the ingredients inablenderandblendbriefly–untilall the ingredientsare justmixed. Serve immediately in a chilled tall slim glass or a champagneflute.Garnishwithlemonpeelorpossiblymint.Servetheglassonaplatewithaspoon.

Somepeopleaddcream,somepeopleaddlemoncello;weprefer itwith thevodkaasabove.

SourCreamIceCreamAslightlysourflavouredicecreamthatisutterlydelicious.

Usingtheabovequantitiesofmilk,sugar,andeggsprepareandcookacustardaccording to themethodformakingStandardFrenchVanillaIceCream seepage72.

When ready, add the sour cream and either still or stir freeze then store(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

SourCreamIceCreamwithPeanutBrittleThe very slightly sour flavour of the ice cream counterbalances nicely theadditionalsweetnessofthebrittle,givingatastethatwillseduceeventhosewhohatepeanuts.

While the ice cream is freezing crush the peanut brittle until the pieces areapproximatelythesizeofsugarcrystals.Then,eithersprinklethebrittleintotheicecreamasitchurnsallowing2or3morerevolutionsbeforeswitchingoffthemachine,orfoldintothestill-frozenicecream.Thenstore(page81).

Serve within 1 hour or, if frozen solid, allow 30 minutes in the fridge tosoftensufficientlyforserving.

SourCreamIceCreamwithRussianToffeeAdeliciouscombination.Somuchbetterthananythingyoucanbuy,itbeggarsbelief.

PutalternativespoonfulsofthesourcreamicecreamandtheRussiantoffeeinaplasticfreezerboxthenfoldthetwomixturestogetherbrieflysothatclearseamsof Russian toffee are still discernible throughout the sour cream ice cream.Smooththesurfaceandthenstorepage81.

SoyaMilkGelatoWehave triedmanytypesofnon-lacticmilkand theonlyonewecan find thatmakesanacceptablegelatoissoyamilk.WechoseAlprowhichcontains2.2%fatand2.6%carbohydrate.Forpeoplewhoarelactoseintolerantwesuggestthisasanalternativetoices

basedonordinarymilk.Furthermorethisrecipecanbeusedasabasisforanyflavouredgelato.

Shakethesoyamilkverywellbeforeopeningthecarton.Inasmallpanmixthesugarandcornstarchevenly.Thenaddabout125ml/

½ cup/ 4 fl oz of themilk andmake sure that it is mixed completely beforeaddingtheremainderofthemilk.

Heattoboilingpointwhilestirring,andthenboilgentlyforupto2-3minutesuntilthickened.Cool,andthenchillinthefridge.

Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

FrozenStiltonCheeseCreamStilton cheese seems unlikely to serve as an ice but once they have tasted it,cheese-loversbecomeaddictstothisVictoriandelicacy.

Slowly bring themilk and clove to boiling point.Meanwhile discard the rindfromthecheeseandchoptherestintoroughly1cm/½inchcubes.Addtothemilkandstiroveragentleheatuntilcompletelymelted.Removethepanfromtheheat,andbeatthemixturevigorouslyforabout30secondsbeforeaddingtheport. Then taste and, if necessary, add salt and a little freshly ground blackpepper.Coolthenchillinthefridge.

Whenreadyremovetheclove,gentlybeat thefromagefrais intothecheese

mixture,theneitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).NOTE: Itwill probablybenecessary to churn thisquantity in two separate

batches.Serve within 1 hour or, if frozen solid, allow 30 minutes in the fridge to

softensufficientlyforserving.Servecutintoslicesasastarterwithceleryseedbiscuitsorafteramealwith

port.

StrawberryGelatoEven indifferent strawberries will give a home-made ice cream a flavour thatwillknockyoursocksoff.Thecolourwillbeatrue,gentlestrawberrycolour,notthevibrantcolourofcommercialgelatosandicecreams.

Hull,thenrinsethestrawberriesanddryonseveralthicknessesofkitchenpaper.Liquidisetheberriesinafoodprocessor.Pourintoabowl,coverandsetasideinthefridge.

Using the above ingredients, make and chill the gelato according to theinstructionsforStandardItalianGelatopage75.

Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(page80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

StrawberryCreamIceCrèmedeFraises

MrsMarshallinherBookofIces(1885)hasthisicewhichisaboutasnearasyouarelikelytogettodaytoanoriginal19thcenturyicecream.Inthosedaysallicesweremadetobeeatenatonceorwithinacoupleofhours,asfreezerswere unknown for longer-term storage.We find that this one is usually eatenbefore you can begin to think of storage. It will store, but is at its best whenfreshlymade.

Hullthestrawberriesthenrinsewithcoldwateranddryinatoweloronkitchenpaper. Transfer the berries to a food processor or blender and add the sugar.Process until reduced to an almost smooth pulp. In a separate bowl beat thecreamuntilitformssoftpeaks.Foldinthesweetenedstrawberrypulpthenpourintoalargeplasticfreezerboxapprox15x10x7.5cm/6x4x3inches, thencoverwithalidandputintothecoldestpartofthefreezer(atthebottomorinthelowerhalfdirectlyoverthefreezercoils)for60-90minutes,oruntiltheicecreamhasstartedtofreezeinabandaroundtheedge.Useaforktoloosenandvigorouslymash the frozen ice cream into the softenedmixture in the centre.Whenthemixtureisuniformrecoverandreturntheicecreamtothefreezerforafurther hour or until softly frozen throughout.At this stage the ice cream caneitherbebeatenagainwitha forkorwhiskedusinganelectrichandbeater,ortransferredtoafoodprocessororblender.Beatuntiltheicecreamhasauniformcreamyconsistency.Thenrecoveroncemoreandreturntothefreezerjustuntilitisfirmenoughtoserve;about30minutes.

StrawberrySorbetA better flavoured sorbet will result from a fully ripened, well flavouredstrawberry, soresist importedvarietiesanduse frozenoneswhenhome-grownare out of season. However, the flavour and colour of the sorbet made withfrozen berries will be marginally less intense than the fresh. Keen gardenersmightliketoplanwellaheadforagoodsorbetandplantvarietiessuchasRoyalSovereign,AromelandCambridgeVigourforflavour.

Ifaseedlesssorbetispreferredblendtheberriesinamachinewithalittleofthesugarsyrupuntilsmooth,thensieve.

Weprefertoleavetheseedsinasitimprovestheappearanceandtextureofthesorbet,butitisamatterofpersonalpreference.

Blendintherestofthesugarsyrupandaddthestrainedjuiceofthelemons.Stir thoroughly and taste; the mixture should not be too sweet. Chill in thefridge.

Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(page80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

StrawberrySpoomStrawberry spoom is a quick and easy dessert to make when the strawberryseasonisatitsheightandawelcomechangefromstrawberriesandcream.

Wash, hull and dry the strawberries, liquidise themwith the sugar syrup, thenstrainthroughafinenylonsievetoremoveanylargepips.Add1Tbspoflemonjuice, tasteandaddmore lemon,½ tspata time,until thepuree is just sweet.Coverandchillthoroughlyinthefridge.

Inalargegrease-freebowlbeattheeggwhiteswithahand-heldwhiskuntiltheyformsoftpeaks,and thengraduallyadd thesugaruntil it isabsorbedandthe egg whites are in fairly stiff peaks. They need to be stiff enough toincorporate thepureebutnotsostiff thatyoucannot fold theminto thepuree.Foldintothechilledpuree,makingsurethatthepureeiscompletelymixedwiththemeringue.Thentransfertoaplasticfreezerboxandcoverwithfreezerfilmorgreaseproofpaperandalid.Finallylabel,andthenfreeze.Eatafterabout2hours, or if frozen solid, allow about 20 minutes in the fridge to softensufficientlytoserve.

Strawberry&MascarponeIceCreamMascarpone isan Italiancreamcheese that isquite simple tomake (seepage228); it can also be bought in tubs from Italian delicatessens and some

supermarket chains. Combined with strawberries it makes a magnificentlysmooth ice cream. This recipe comes from CooksMagazine in the USA, withtheirblessing.

Hull thestrawberries then rinsewithcoldwateranddryona towelorkitchenpaper. Use a food processor/ blender to puree the strawberries, then sieve toremovetheseeds.Coverandchilluntilreadytouse.

Make a custard according to the recipe for Standard French Vanilla IceCream (page72).Once the custard ismade add themascarpone and stirwelluntildissolved.Putapieceoflightlybutteredgreaseproofpaperdirectlyonthesurface of the custard and press it up against the side of the pan. This willpreventaskinformingwhilethecustardcools.Oncecoldtransfertothefridgetochill.

Whenready,combinethecustardandstrawberrypureetheneitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(page80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

Home-MadeMascarpone

Startthedaybeforeneeded.Pourthecreamintothetophalfofadoubleboiler,orintoabowlplacedover

apanofsimmeringwater.Usingathermometer(thisisessential)heatthecream,stirringoccasionallyto80°C/176°F;overorunderheatingwillspelldisaster.

Removethepanfromtheheatandaddthetartaricacid.Stirfor30seconds,

removefromtheheatandcontinuetostirforanothertwominutes,thenpourthecream into a cheesecloth-lined colander over a large bowl and allow to drain.Leaveinacoolplacefornotmorethan12hourstodrain.

NOTE:Tartaricacidisavegetableacidusedinbakingpowdersandsomefizzydrinks.(SeeUsefulAddressespage324)Itisnotthesameascreamoftartar.

StrawberryIceCreamFlavouredwithBalsamicVinegar

Ifyouarestaringatthisrecipeindisbelief,letusassureyouattheoutsetthereis nomistake, it does combine strawberries with vinegar and the flavourwillout-dothatofanystrawberryicecreamyouhaveevertasted.The recipecomes from Entertaining all’ItalianabyAnnaDelConte, butwe

suspect the idea stemmed from her previous book, Secrets from an ItalianKitchen.HereAnnadescribestherarespecialityofReggioEmiliaandModena,the towns where balsamic vinegar is made. It consists of serving vanilla icecream with a teaspoon of balsamic vinegar dribbled over each portion. Shewrites, ‘The rich dark flavour of the balsamic vinegar cuts into the delicatesweetnessoftheicecreamandachievesaperfectbalanceofflavours.’Itseemstohavethesameeffectinstrawberryicecream–inshort,excellent.

Washandhullthestrawberries.Drythemthoroughlywithkitchenpaperthenputthemina foodprocessororblenderwith thesugar.Set themachine inmotionandaddthebalsamicvinegarthroughthelidorfunnel.Continuetoblenduntiltheingredientshavecombinedtoasmoothpuree,andthenpourthisintoabowl.Cover and refrigerate for 2-3 hours. The sugar and vinegarwill bring out theflavourofthefruit.

Whenready,combinethestrawberrypureeandthecreamandtheneitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(page80to81).

Serve within 1 hour or, if frozen solid, allow 30 minutes in the fridge tosoftensufficientlyforserving.

ThePrinceofWalesIceorSugarIceCreamIn Joseph Bell’s book published in Newcastle in 1817, A Treatise onConfectionaryinallitsBranches,hegivesarecipeforThePrinceofWalesIce.Thiswas,weassume,afavouriteofthePrinceofWales,asBellsays‘TheauthorhasrepeatedlyhadthehonourofpreparingthisicebyHisHighnessthePrinceofWales.’Bellwas confectioner tobothThePrinceofWales (laterKingGeorgeIV)andtheDukeofYork,hisbrother.HelaterretiredtoNewcastleandwrotehistreatise.It is basically a very rich sugar-flavoured iced cream with a dense

consistency. You can make it with ordinary brown unrefined Demerara sugarandtheresultisdelicious,howeverwehaveusedmuscovadosugar;theresultissomething really special. This is another recipe for food historians and thoseinterestedinwhaticesusedtobelike.ServedwithmincepiesorChristmaspuddingitisfantasticbuttryitjuston

itsown.Itisquickandoneoftheeasiestrecipesinthebook.

Inabowlstartwhisking thecreamandslowlyadding thesugarbutmakesurethatthesugarissoftbeforeyoustart.

Whipuntilitwillholdstiffpeaks,andthenquicklyscrapeintoafreezerbox.Thengentlyknocktheboxonthekitchenworktop.Thiswillremoveairpocketsin the ice cream. Cover with freezer film or greaseproof paper then freezeovernightandpreferablyforatleastthreedaystolettheflavourdevelop.⋆Youcanuseanydegreeofbrownsugarfromsoftordarkbrownsugar,demerara,lightmuscovadoordarkmuscovadosugar.Makesureitisunrefinedsugar.WealwaysuseBillingtons.

SummerPuddingSpoomThis spoom is perfect for the inside of any bombe as it can be served almostdirectly fromthe freezer. If itdoesneedtempering10minutes to20minutes inthefridgeisusuallyallthatisneeded.Youcanvarythefruitstomakethisbutwethinkthatraspberriesareamust.

Blackcurrants canbeadded (in certainUSA states theyare illegal) insteadof

blueberries. The darker fruits give it a better colour and vary the flavour.Howeveryouneedatleasttwofruitstogetthesummerpuddingflavour.

Putthesugarsyrupinanon-reactivesaucepan,addthewashedblackberriesandthe blueberries and/or blackcurrants and bring to the boiling point. Simmergentlyuntilthefruitsaresoft.About5minutes.

Liquidise in a food processor or a liquidiser and sieve through a mediumsieve.Returnthesievedliquidtotheliquidiser/foodprocessor.

Now add the washed raspberries and liquidise briefly to puree thenthoroughly mix with the blackberries and blueberries. Cool and chill in thefridge.

We prefer to sieve the blackberry/blueberry/blackcurrantmix after cookingandbeforeaddingtheraspberriestoremovethelargepipsandskins.Thepipsintheraspberrieswefeeladdatextureandaninterestingconsistencyandlooktothesummerpuddingspoom.

When ready reconstitute the egg whites, if powdered, then whisk the eggwhitesandaddthesugarslowlyuntiltheeggwhitemixturewillholdfirmpeaks,thenfoldinthefruitpuree.Freeze,preferablyovernight.

ServeinabombeoronitsownorwithascoopofBrownBreadIceCream,page106.

TamarindSorbetThosewhoare interested in IndianandSouthEastAsiancookingwillbewellacquaintedwith this ingredient.Thepulpofpodsgathered fromthe treeof the

samename,tamarindismostusuallysoldcompressedintoslabs,verysimilartothatofdates.Whatpeoplemayfindunusualisthatthissour,exoticstapleusedprimarilyinsavourydishes,here,isusedasthebasisforasorbet.Theflavourisdelicious;somethinglikeafragrant,slightlysharp,bakedapple,withsomespicebehindit.Servewithfreshexoticfruits,especiallyfreshdates,figs,bananasorwithold-fashionedmilkpuddings, suchas semolina, riceor sagomadewithacoconutmilkbase.

Break theblockof tamarind into smallpiecesandput into thebowlofa foodprocessor.Pourintheboilingwaterandleaveuntilwarm.Pulseverybriefly,justtobreakdownthepulpintothewater.Pourthisintoafinesieveoverabowlandrubthroughasmuchof thepulpaspossible; therewillbequitea lotofdebrisleft.Discardthisandwhiskthesugarsyrupintothepuree.Tasteandaddlemonjuiceaspreferred.Coverandchillbeforestillorstirfreezingandstore (pages80to81).

TEAICESThere is a very straightforward trickwewould like to pass on concerning teainfusions.Everyrecipewehaveeverread initiallyrequiresboilingwater tobepouredontothetea.

Ignore this and simply soak the tea in cold water overnight. This methodgives a good, rich round flavour with none of the bitter tannin that isimmediatelyreleasedwhentealeavesaresteepedinboilingwater.

EarlGreyTeaGelatoThistypeoffermentedblackteaisquiteafeatureinthishouseinthedegreetowhich it is used in general cooking. This includes everything from smokingchicken,marinating fruits,bakingcakesandnow icecream. It justhasaveryhappy knack of both fitting in and enhancing flavours and yet has a definite

flavourofitsown.Thenotableelementinthisteaisbergamotwhichistheoilfromthebergamot

orange,aninediblefruit,grownalmostexclusivelyforitsoil.Serveitsimply,perhapswithsomecantuccini.

Inameasuringjugputthemilkwiththefourteabags,stirwellandthenleaveintherefrigeratorforatleast24hours.Thisslow,steady-but-suremethodextractstheflavourwithout the tanninorscumthatoccurswhenpouringboilingwaterovertea.

Donotheat themilkas thiswilldissolve the tannin in the teaandgive thegelatoabitterflavour.

After24hoursremovetheteabagsandmakeaccordingtotheinstructionsforStandardItalianGelatomadewitheggsonpage75.

Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

EarlGreyTeaSorbetNOTE:Puristscansubstitute3TbspofEarlGreytealeavesforthe4teabagsbutwehaverarelyfoundanyonewhocandetectthedifference.

Addtheteabagstothecoldwater,coverandleavetosteepfor24hours,stirring

occasionally.Drainanddiscard thebags thenadd thesugarsyrupandstrainedlemonjuice.Chillinthefridgeagainbeforemakingthesorbet.

Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

VARIATIONS:SmokeyRussiancaravanteagivesagoodpositiveflavour;ortrygunpowdergreenorjasmineteaforadelicatefragrantsorbet.

GreenTeaIceCreamJapanese shops and specialist tea shops sell green tea packaged as teabags.GreenteaisunfermentedandhasacleanbrightflavourquitedifferentfromtheEarlGreywhichisafermentedteawithaddedbergamot.Wehaveconstructedalightericecreamaroundthegreenteasoitsfreshqualitiescancomethrough.If loose tea is all that is available, youwould need 4 teaspoonfuls infused

overnight in the milk; the milk will then need straining before making thecustard.ThisiceisanidealwaytofinishaJapanese,ChineseorThaimeal.

Measure thecoldmilk intoa jugandplace the teabags in it,making sure thattheyaresubmergedintheliquid.Coverandrefrigerateovernight,stirringonceortwiceifpossible.

Thefollowingday,squeezealltheliquidfromtheteabagsbackintothemilk,discardthebagsandbringthemilktojustbelowboilingpoint.Proceedtomakeacustardwiththeflavouredmilk,usingtheabovequantitiesofsugar,eggyolksand cream (though omitting the vanilla bean), following the instructions forStandardFrenchVanillaIceCream(seepage72).

Whenready,addthechilledcream,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

TequilaGranitaThe idea for this sorbet came afterwe hadMargueritas, thatwere virtually aslush, in a Tex-Mex restaurant in New York. They were delicious. This ice iswonderfulafterahotMexican,IndianorOrientalmeal.

Bringthewatertotheboilinamediumsaucepan.Stirinthesugar.Removethepan from the heat and stir in the spirits and the strained lemon juice.Cool toroomtemperature,andthenchillinthefridge.

FordetailedinstructionsonhowtoprepareaGranita(seepage71).

EnglishToffeeIceCreamThe recipe could not be simpler and the flavour is excellent. The toffeemeltsmore quickly if it is crushed into very small pieces, and we have found thatfreezing the toffee for30minutesmakes itmorebrittleand thereforeeasier topound.

Leaving50g/2ozoftoffeeinthefreezercrushtheremainingtoffeeandputitina small saucepan with the milk and half the cream. Heat gently, stirringfrequentlyuntil the toffeehasdissolved. (Using aballoonwhisk can speedupthedissolvingprocessalittle.)

Whenthemixtureissmoothremovefromtheheatandcoolquicklybysitting

thebaseofthepanincoldwater.Oncecold,coverandtransfertothefridgetochill.

When ready, combine the chilled toffeemixwith the remaining cream andpourintothemachine;eitherstillorstirfreeze(page80).

Whiletheicecreamisfreezingquicklyremovetheremainingtoffeefromthefreezerandcrushit.Sprinklethisdirectlyontothechurningicecreamandallowit to churn for a further2or3 revolutionsor sufficient todistribute the toffeechipsevenlythroughouttheicecream.Thenstore(page81).

Serve within 1 hour or, if frozen solid, allow 30 minutes in the fridge tosoftensufficientlyforserving.

Servewithbakedapplesorbananas,orChocolateIceCream(seepage118).

EnglishToffee&RumIceCream

FollowthemethodformakingEnglishToffeeIceCream,tothestagewhenthechilledmixhasbeenremovedfromthefridge.Nowstirintheremainingcream,thensufficientrumtotaste,andcontinueasdirectedinthemethod.

LiquoriceToffeeIceCreamNota flavourusuallyassociatedwith ice cream;ora colour. If you find it onsale, it is invariablyaverydauntingblack.We found that thesimplestmethodproduced a remarkably good flavour, but we drew the line at adding blackcolouringsoourversionisafarmoresubtlebattleshipgrey!

Themethod is exactly the sameas formakingEnglishToffee IceCreambut

dissolvethesugarwithall(300g/10½oz)theliquoricetoffees(inthemilkwithhalfthecream)atthestartoftherecipe.Nocrushedtoffeeisaddedtothefrozenicecream.

NOTE:SeeUsefulAddressesonpage324forliquoricetoffee.

TomatoIceCream–SavouryThisisanicethatismadewithmayonnaiseusingsunfloweroil.Itcontainsverylittlecreamandonlyoneeggandthereforeperportioniscomparativelylowinsaturatedfatsandcholesterol.Alltoooften,thiscansignalalossofflavour,butmadewithwellflavoured,fullyripetomatoes,itmakesasophisticatedice.

Wash the tomatoes,quarterandput theminapanwith thechoppedgarlicandbay leaves. Cook gently, covered, stirring frequently, until the tomatoes arereduced toasoftpulp. (Additionalwatershouldnotbeneeded if the tomatoesare ripe and they are cooked slowly enough.) Rub the contents of the panthrough a sieve.Stir in tomatopuree and sugar, then seasonwellwith freshlygroundblackpepper.Coverandchillinthefridge.

To make the mayonnaise, break the egg into a mediumsize mixing bowl.

Usinganelectrichandwhiskbeatinthelemonjuice.Thenwiththemachinesetatmediumspeed,whiskintheoilveryslowly,adribbledtablespoonfulatatime,until all theoil is addedand themayonnaise formsanemulsion.Addmustardandthensaltandpeppertotaste.Coverandchillthemayonnaiseinthefridge.

When ready, combine the tomato mixture, mayonnaise and lightly beatencreamtheneitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).

Serve within 1 hour or, if frozen solid, allow 30 minutes in the fridge tosoftensufficientlyforserving.

Servewithcoldlemon-dressedseafoodorwithamixedgreenleafsaladforalight lunch, or withPea andMint Savoury Ice Cream (see page 199) as astarter.

FreshTomato&BasilSorbetServeasalunchdishonahotsummer’sdaywithamixedgreensalad,orinachilledredoryellowtomatosoup.

Skinthetomatoeseitherbyimmersinginboilingwaterforabout1minute,orbyspearing each tomato with a fork and rotating over a gas flame. Quarter,removing the cores, and transfer to a food processor or blender. Blend untilsmooththenrubthroughaplasticsieveintoabowl.Stirinthesugarsyrupandaddthechoppedbasilleaves.Nowaddthestrainedlemonjuicethensalt,freshlymilled black pepper andWorcestershire sauce to taste. Cover and chill in thefridge.

Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(page80to81).Serve within 1 hour or, if frozen solid, allow 30 minutes in the fridge to

softensufficientlyforserving.

TruffleIceCreamTruffle ice cream is for a special occasion.We use truffles preserved in smalljars(holding2or3trufflesandweighingatotalof30g)soldbyL’Aquila(seeUseful Addresses page 324). In a jar they cost about £8 or $12 and make asublimeicecreamprovided,ofcourse,youliketruffles.Ifyoudon’tliketrufflesgotoanotherrecipe.You can use fresh truffles but these can cost telephone numbers and are

seasonal.Thisgelatocanbemadeatanytimeoftheyear.

Slice,thenchopthetrufflesveryfinelyandsetaside.Nowusethemilk,sugarandeggyolksaboveaccordingtotherecipeforRich

FrenchVanillaIceCream (page72), but omitting thevanilla bean.Once thecustard has cooled, add the finely chopped truffles and cover and chill in thefridgeforatleast6hoursorovernight.

Whenready,addthechilledcream,taste,thenwhiskinaverysmallamountof truffle oil, ½ tsp at a time, tasting between each addition until the truffleflavour isasyouprefer.Theneitherstillorstir freeze and store (pages80 to81).

Serve within 1 hour or, if frozen solid, allow 30 minutes in the fridge tosoftensufficientlyforserving.

Serveinexquisiteportionsonitsownorwithascoopofoliveoilicecreamdrizzledwithhoneyorwithbakedpearsorontoastedpanettonewithhoneyorwithwalnuts.⋆Youmustgetreallygoodqualitytruffleoil,madefromrealtruffles,eitherblacktruffleoilorwhitetruffleoil.Avoidanythingthatsaysnatureidenticalortruffleflavour.

MrsMarshall’sVanillaIceCreamThiscomesstraightfromthepagesofMrsMarshall’sBookofIces(1885)andwithhersimpledirectnesscomesundertheheadingof‘cheap’.Itistheidealsortoficecreamtochurnoutinquantitiesforchildrenbecause

youcanbesurethatnothingyoucanbuycanmatchitforpriceorintegrityofingredients.We spent a very interesting day making ice cream on the beach in one of

Britain’s leading seaside resorts and churning it in one of Mrs Marshall’soriginalhand-crankedice-creammachines.Firstlytheancientmachineperformedperfectlyonahotsummer’sday.Then

we decided to get children to sample this ice cream against a major multi-nationalcompany’sbest sellingproduct.Toour surpriseandgratificationMrsMarshallwon100%.

Combine the cornflour and sugar in a bowl. Stir in sufficient of themeasuredmilktoformathinblend.Bringtherestofthemilktotheboilandpourontothecornflourblendinathin,steadystream,stirringconstantly.Returnthemixturetothepanandbringtotheboiloveramoderateheat,stirringconstantly.Oncethemixtureboilsremovethepanfromtheheatandstirinthevanilla.Layapieceofbutteredgreaseproofpaperdirectlyonthecustardandslightlyupthesidesofthepan;thisistopreventaskinformingtowhichthissortofflour-basedcustardisparticularlyprone.Leavetocool,thenchillinthefridge.

Whenready,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(page80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

EasyNo-CookPhiladelphiaVanillaIceCreamThis is the easiest type of Philadelphia (or egg-less) ice cream and isparticularlysuitableforchildrentomake.As the name suggests this recipe is reputed to have originated in

Philadelphia. Because it contains no egg, it melts faster and has thecharacteristic iciness of old-fashioned ice cream. The clearly visible vanillaseedsarealsotypicalofthistypeofice.

Split the vanilla bean lengthwise and heat with the milk and sugar, stirringoccasionally, to just below boiling point, allow to cool and chill. Remove thebeanandscrapeouttheseeds,addingthemtothechilledmilk.

Whenready,addthechilledcondensedmilkandcreamtheneitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow20minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

SoftScoopVanillaIceCreamThisisthehome-madeequivalentofcommercialicecreamsthatcanbeservedstraightfromthefreezer.Americanswillhavenoproblemmakingthistypeoficecreambecause it dependsona typeof sugaravailable in theUSAwhere it isknownascornsyrup. InBritain it ismucheasier touseglucosewhich isnowavailableinmostsupermarkets.For an explanation of the part sugar plays in the science of ice cream see

pages305to315.

In a largeheatproofmixingbowlbeat together the sugar and egg.Thenmakeaccording to the recipe for Standard French Vanilla Ice Cream (page 72).Removefromtheheatandstirineithertheglucoseorthecornsyrup.Coverandchillinthefridge.

Whenready,addthechilledcream,eitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80 to81).Servewithin1hour. If frozensolid, remove from the freezer to theworktop.Bythetimetheplatesandspoonshavebeenassembledtheicecreamwillbesufficientlysofttoserve.

Well-BehavedVanillaIceCreamAn icecream thatcontainsnoeggsand is straightforwardandquick tomake.Theinterestingadditionisthegelatinewhichmakestheicecreamlesspronetomelting and more able to hold its shape. The gelatine creates a cooked-milkflavour which is popular among the older generation, recalling childhoodmemoriesoficecream.

Spoonthewaterintoamediumsizedbowlthensprinkleinthegelatine,whiskingconstantly.Inasaucepanbringthemilktotheboilthenremovethepanfromtheheat.Stir in thesugarandthesalt,andwhenthesugarhasdissolvedpour intothebowlcontainingthegelatine,stirringallthewhile.Coverandleavetocool.

Whenready,addthecreamandvanilla,andtheneitherstillorstirfreezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

ChineseWalnutBrittleIceCreamThisrecipeisgoingtoraiseaneyebrowortwo–itisdefinitelyanoddity.Howmanynutbrittleshaveyoucomeacross that containgenerousamountsof saltand freshly ground black pepper? But rest assured, the recipe has a perfectpedigree. It comes from the late JaneGrigson’s bookGoodThings, andwhenthisladytellsyousomethingunusualworks,youcanbankonit.

Themagicoftherecipeisthat,asJaneGrigsonwrote,thepeppertastesspicyrather than peppery and leaves one’s mouth feeling fresh and clear.Furthermore, when added to ice cream it miraculously keeps these qualities,givingaflavourwhichisatoncerich,yetcleanandspicy.Aratheradultflavour.Pleasenoteitmustbefreshlygroundblackpepper,straightfromapeppermill.

FollowthemethodformakingStandardFrenchVanillaIceCream(seepage72) omitting the vanilla bean and substitutingvanilla sugar).Once the custardhascooled,coverandchillinthefridge.

BRITTLEPut the sugar and water in a small heavy pan and heat gently, stirringoccasionallyuntilthesugarhascompletelydissolved.Nowturnuptheheatandboil briskly until the syrup reaches the soft ball stage, 112-115°C/ 233-239°F.Add the salt and walnuts and continue cooking to the hard crack stage, 148-154°C/298-309°F, grinding the peppermill 20-25 turns over the pan betweenstirs.

Quicklyscrapethemixturefromthepanontoagreasedbakingtrayandpatthenutsflatwiththebackofaspoon.Leavetocoolandharden.Taptobreakthebrittle intopiecesthenpoundseveralpiecesata timewithapestle inamortaruntilreducedtoaboutthesamesizeascoarsesaltcrystals.Transfertoascrew-topjaruntilreadytouse.

When ready, add the chilled cream, either still or stir freeze the ice cream(page80) thenquickly scrape into plastic freezer boxes, sprinkling in 150g/1cup/5¼ozof thecrushedbrittleasyougo.Finally,give the icecream1or2stirstodistributethebrittleevenlythensmooththesurfaceandstore(page81).

Serve within 1 hour or, if frozen solid, allow 30 minutes in the fridge tosoftensufficientlyforserving.

Whisky&HoneyParfaitHavinghadAthollBroseandlovedit,wewereconvincedthatthesameprinciplecouldbeused tomakean icecream.Howwrongcouldwebe?Alloureffortsproduceddifferentversionsoffrozenporridge.Intheendwewereforcedtoturnthe idea on its head and come up with a superlatively flavoured whisky andhoneyparfait.

Combine the honey with the water and warm very gently until the honey iscompletelydissolved.Thesyrupshouldbebetween30-40°C/86-104°F(aroundblood heat). Now follow very carefully the instructions for making aParfait(seepage71).

Servesprinkledwithlightlytoastedpinheadorrolledoatmeal.

MulledWineSorbetThisrecipecameaboutthroughasuggestionfromDeliaSmith.WedevisedthisrecipeforherbookDeliaSmith’sChristmas.

Thoroughlyscrubthendrytheorangeandlemons.Useapotatopeelertoremovethree2.5x1cm/1x½inchstripsfromtheorangeandoneofthelemons.Cutthese across very finely to give hair-like strips. Squeeze the juice from theorange and 1½ lemons.Combine thewine, spices, strips of zest and strainedorangeand lemon juice inasaucepan.Bring to theboil, simmer for1minute,thenremovethepanfromtheheat.Stir in theportandsugarsyrup,coverandleavetocool,thenchillinthefridge.

When ready, discard the cinnamon and cloves, then still or stir freeze andstore(pages80to81).

Serve within 1 hour or, if frozen solid, allow 30 minutes in the fridge tosoftensufficientlyforserving.

Werther’s®IceCreamThesecreamandbutter-flavouredsweetsarealwaysonofferinourcar,soitdidnottakelongbeforetheideaoccurredtousethemasaflavouringforicecreamand the resultwas rather successful.Theonlydrawbackwehave found is thelengthof time it takes for thesweets todissolve. It isbest tostart theprocess,thengoawayandfindsomethingfascinatingtodoforanhourortwo.Afamilyfavouriteistoservethisicecreamwithaplain,hot,bakedcookingapple.

Discard the wrappers and put the candies and the sugar in the top half of adoublesaucepan.Pourinthemilkandputthepanoverthelowerhalfcontaining2to3inchesofboilingwater.Adjusttheheattolow,coverwithalidandleavefor at least 45minutes, stirring occasionally, until the toffees have completelydissolved.

Transfer the top half of the pan to sit in cold water, and then chill in thefridge.

Whenready,addthewhippingcreamandtheneitherstillorstir freezeandstore(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

Moro’sYoghurtIceCreamThiscomes,withtheirkindpermission,fromtheinspiringCasaMorocookbookby Sam and Sam Clark. This husband-and-wife pair of restaurateurs arepassionateaboutallthingsSpanishandMoorishandwhetherthisrecipecamefrom these roots we do not know, but it is a very clever, cast-iron recipe thatcannotbetweakedinanyway.Wewouldhavelikedtohavemadeiteasierbutitresistsmodificationofany sort.Butbeaware that youdefinitelyneeda standmixerandaprobethermometer.Whatyouwillgetforyourtroubleisoneofthebestyoghurticecreamsyouwillevertaste.

Combinethesugarandeggwhitesinalargeheatproofbowl.Sitthebowlover,notin,apanofsimmeringwaterandstiruntilthemixturereaches80°C/176°F.Thiswilltakeabout20minutes.Transferthewhitesandsugartothebowlofastandmixerfittedwithaballoonwhisk.Setthemachineathighspeedandleaveto whisk for 10 to 15 minutes. By this time the mixture will have formed adense,white,fluffytypeofmeringue.Whiskinafewspoonfulsofthemeasuredyoghurt,thenstopthemachineandcleandownthebowlwitharubberspatula,workingallthemeringuefromthebaseandsidesintothegeneralmix.Continuetowhiskaddingtheremainingyoghurtandleavethemachineinactionuntilthemixture is cold, about 10 minutes. It can be still or stir-frozen immediately(page80),butifyouareusinganelectricice-creammachineyouwillprobablyhavetochurnthisquantityintwobatches.Storeasdirectedonpage81.

ZabaglioneGelato

Marsala is one of the many amazing foods and drinks that come from Sicily.However the world market for this fortified wine was developed by fourEnglishmen;Woodhouse,Ingham,WhitakerandHoppsinthelate18thcentury.TheywereincompetitionwitheachothershippingMarsala,mainlytoEngland.Maybethereissimplynotthedemandforthistypeofwineanymorebecause

it is difficult to find the good stuff. Steer well clear of anyMarsala which isloadedwithflavourslikeegg,cream,bananaorcoffeeandavoidanysuspicious,‘cookingquality’cheaperversions.There are basically two types, dolce (sweet) and secco (dry). We use

Pellegrino, Bartoli or Florio. If you are unable to find it locally check theinternetforasupplier.Foricecreamyouneedthesweetone.Thereareanumberoftypesavailable

as it is a blended fortifiedwine, like sherry. Fino is aged less than one year,Superiore isagedat least twoyears,SuperioreRiserva fouryearsandVerginee/oSolerasatleastfiveyears.Not surprisingly, this produces a full, round-flavoured gelato particularly

suitable for cold weather and Christmas. It goes with the rich flavours ofpoached,driedfruits,mincepiesandChristmaspudding.

MakeaccordingtotherecipeforStandardItalianGelato(page75).Once thecustardhascooled,coverandchillinthefridge.

When ready, stir in the marsala, then either still or stir freeze and store(pages80to81).Servewithin1houror,iffrozensolid,allow30minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlyforserving.

InstantIcesWebeganthislineofresearchlookingforaveryeasy,quickmethodofmakingices.Wewereattractedby the notion of freezing canned fruit, then liquidising the frozen contents, but the results of theseexperimentswereverypoor.Thenwethought,what iswrongwithusingthebasicfruit, frozen?This

hasprovedtobeanabsolutewinner.Itisacompletedeparturefromthemainworldoficecreamsbutkeeps one foot in the sorbet camp.The idea is simple; frozen fresh fruit, liquidised. It could not beeasierormorestraightforwardandtheresultsarevery,verygood.

The list of fruitswe give are the oneswe findmost successful. For example raspberries, red andwhite currants andblackberries havebeen left out primarily because they contain toomany seeds toworkwiththistechnique;applesbrowntoomuchduringfreezingandcitrusfruitsarefranklytoomuchofafiddle.Pearsdonothaveastrongenoughflavour,etc.

Allwewouldadviseisusethefruitsofoptimumripeness.

SUGGESTEDFRUITSUseabout450g/1lbpreparedweightofthefollowing:

BananaPeelandslicelengthways.

BlackcherryDe-stalk,washandpit.

KiwiUseasmallsharpknifetoremovetheconeshapeofwhitecorefrombothendsofthefruit.Peelawaythebrownskinsandslicethefruitacrossapprox0.5cm/¼inchthick.

MelonWater,OgenorChanteraisetc.

Divide the fruit into2.5cm/1 inch thickwedges, slip theknifebetween the rindand thecolouredfruittoremoveonlythesweetestflesh.Cutacrossintoapprox1.25cm/½inchthickslices,discardingallseedsasyougo.

Peach/NectarineSkinbyimmersingthefruitinboilingwaterfor3-5minutes.Drain,coolandpeel.Halveandstone,thensliceeachhalfinto4wedges.

PineappleTopandtailthefruit.Sititonitsbaseandusingasharpknife,workfromthetop,tothebaseremovingthestripsofouterskin.Graduallyworkyourwayaroundthefruit thendividethepineappleintofourlengthways.Cutawaythecentralcorefromeachsectionthencutthefruitacrossintoapprox1.25cm/½inchwidepieces.

StrawberriesHull,rinseincoldwater,drainandsliceapprox0.5cm/¼inch.

METHODFruit-asaboveFreshlemonjuiceIcing/confectionerssugarBakingtrays that fit inyour freezer, linedwith freezer filmor clingfilm/Gladwrap.(Non-plasticizedwrap)

Arrangeeachchosenfruitinitsownoverlappinglineonthepreparedtray.Coverwithfreezerfilmorclingfilm/Gladwrapandfreeze.

Thefruitcanremainfrozenforuptoonemonth.Ifyouintendservingtheiceimmediatelyitismade,havereadysomeservingdishes,(seebelow).If

youwanttodelayservinguptotwohourshavereadysmallplasticboxesforeachtypeoffruit.Putonetypeoffrozenfruitintheliquidiser/processoratatime,breakingupthestifflyfrozenlinesof

fruitalittlewithyourhands.Addatablespoonfuloficing/confectionerssugarandprocess.Somefruitswillneedscrapingdown2to3timesbeforetheybecomesmooth.Tasteandaddatablespoonfulmoresugar at a time if needed. Taste, add a little lemon juice to bring out the freshness and flavours ifnecessary.

Spoonintosmalldishesandserveimmediately.

SERVINGWe suggest serving rather exquisite small portions in something like shot glasses or even espressocoffeecups.Itisbesttochilltheglassesinarefrigeratorbeforeserving.

Alternate spoonfulsofdifferent fruits inglasses is extremely effectivebut todo this, get the fruitliquidisedandstoredreadyinthefreezer.Haveyourassemblylinereadyofeachice,glassesandspoonsandservepronto.

Youcouldgiveslightlylargerservingsoficetoppedwithsmalldollopsoffromagefrais–nothingtoorichorheavy.

NOTE:Cherrybenefitsfromhavingalittlemaraschinospoonedover.

LollypopsorSuckers

We decided to add this chapter to this revised edition for several reasons.Manufactured lollies, or suckers as they are also known, are plumb-full ofadditives,tendtowardstheover-sweet,andfurthermore,especiallywhenboughtindividually,areveryexpensive.Thehome-madeversionstasteverygood,andcharmanddelightpeoplewithcomparativelylittleeffortandatafractionofthecost.Motherseverywhereareallowedtofeelalmostvirtuousfeedingourlolliestotheirchildren!

Butherecomesthe‘however’.Whileappearingtobedeadsimple,lolliesaresurprisinglydifficulttogetright.Youhavetosticktoaformula.Thedifficultyistogetastrongenoughflavourandsweetnessinthefinallollywhileworkingtothisformula,soeitherfollowourrecipesexactly,or,ifyouwanttostrikeoutonyourown,youMUSTarmyourselfwithasaccharometer(seeEquipment,page52).Yourowninventedmixmustread9°Bauméforasuccessfullolly,1degreeaboveorbelowisacceptable.Eventhen,thingscangowrong,especiallywhenyouaredealingwithahighfibremix,e.g.mangoorpineapple.Thepresenceoffibrewill give a false density reading. If you have a Brix saccharometer, seepage307forconversionsbetweenthevariousdensityscales.

What has disturbed us and was a further spur to write this chapter is theabundance of recipes on the internet that, in our opinion, do notwork, or arefranklyinedible.Therearethoseusingjelly/jello/gelatineonthegroundsthatthelollieswill not drip.They do not drip, but have such a slimy texture they aredisgusting toeat.Those recipescontainingdesiccatedcoconut,puddingmixes,melted marshmallows, carbonated drinks or corn-flour/cornstarch are, by andlarge,alsounpleasanttoeat.Failingtogetasufficientlypositiveflavouritisalltoo easy to reach for the brandies and liqueurs, but children are our mainconsumerssowehavelargelyavoidedgoingdownthatroad.Alsotobeavoided,are the lowfat yoghurt-based lollies containing chunks of fruit. They do notwork. There is a current vogue for ‘smoothie’ lollieswhich consist of pureedfruits,suchasstrawberries,raspberries,blueberries,liquidisedwithbananasforsweetness with about 3 tablespoons of yoghurt. Anything containing bananasshouldnotbekepthangingaroundfortoolongbecauseitwilldiscolour.Forus,oneofthemainvirtuesofthehome-madeproductistheminimumofadditivesso,byandlarge,wehavekeptourrecipessimpleandwholesome,usingfreshly

squeezed juice rather than those bought in cartons, featuring some ingredientsbecausetheyarehighineffectiveantioxidantsandallwithjustsufficientsugartosupporttheice.Pleasenotethatsugarsubstitutesdonotwork.

Youwillneedagoodsetoflollymoulds.Again,thissoundssimple,butwehavebeen amazed at the poor design of these things.With someof themyouhave todefrost thewhole trayof sixoreight lollies inorder togetoutoneortwo.Thentherearetheoneswhichareanimpossibleshapetosuckandsodripeverywhere,and thosemadeofmaterials thatcannotgo inadish-washer. (Forpeople inclined touse re-cycledyoghurtpots,bear inmind that theseproduceunwieldy-shaped frozen ices, especially hard for children to manage.) Also,check that the overall height of lolly stick in the mould, standing in thesupporting rack, will actually fit in your freezer; they just might be too tall.Overalllollykitsarelarge.Checkthatyouhavethefreezerspace.

AtthetimeofgoingtoprintourfavouritekitistheCuisiproRocketsetfromwhich lollies can be removed separately. They are suppliedwith a substantialframetoholdthemfirmlyuprightinthefreezerandarenottooexpensiveeither.(SeeUsefulAddresses,page324.)Wetestedallourrecipesusingthiskit,whichis why the made-up mixes pretty much equal 550 ml/2¼ cups/ 18 fl oz.Individuallolliesareusuallyaround80ml/⅓cup/3flozcapacity,allowingsomespaceforexpansionoftheiceduringfreezing.

Itmayhelp toestablishabaselinebysayingthatourfreezerrunsataroundminus21°C.Atthistemperaturethelolliestake4hourstofreeze.Anylollywithalcoholinitshouldbefrozenovernighttoensureitiscompletelyfrozen.

Toserve,either leavethefrozenlolliesatroomtemperaturefor10minutes,or, formoreimmediateserving,dip thefrozenareaofmixin thecontainers inlukewarm water, just momentarily, to release them. If using the Rocketcontainers a slight, sideways pressure on the stick helps to release the airpressure and therefore the lolly. They will keep happily in the freezer for 4weeks,but theusualprovisoapplies; it isnotrecommendedtore-freezelolliesoncetheyhavebeenremovedfromthemoulds.Anoteofcaution;becausetheselolliescontainno stabilisers theyneed tobeeatenquicklyonce removed fromthefreezerandtheywilldripifnotactivelysucked!

ThefollowingrecipesdonotneedaBaumésaccharometer,butitisimportanttofollowtherecipeexactly.Forexample,atablespoon,moreorless,ofsugaroralcoholcanmeanalollythatbreaksinhalfonitswayoutofthemould,orisarock-hardicethatseemstohavelittleflavour.Inoneortworecipeswegetuptosomeoddthingsbutitisalwaysdoneforareason;wehavetriedalwaysforthesimplestmethodstoget thebestresults.Makeadequatespaceforthelolliesin

thefreezerbeforeyoustart.NOTE: The quantities of lolly mix in each recipe makes between 6 and 12

lolliesdependingonthesizeofyourmoulds.

Orgeat(Almond)MilkOrgeat,analmondsyrup,isusuallyfoundinwinemerchantsorontheinternet.

Measure themilk into a jug and stir in the almond syrup.This canbe pouredstraight into themoulds, then freeze, allowingabout1 cm/½ inchclearanceatthetopfortheicetoexpandduringfreezing.

Bailey’s™&Milk

Combinealltheingredientsinameasuringjug.Keepstirringuntilyouaresureallthesugarhasdissolvedthenpourintothecontainers,allowingabout1cm/½inchclearanceatthetopfortheicetoexpandduringfreezing.

BloodyMaryTheseareperfectbeforeSundaybrunchoratanytime!

Combine the vodka, sugar syrup,BloodyMarymix and strained juice of twolemons.Stir,tasteandaddalittleadditionallemonjuice,ifpreferred.Coverandchill in thefridge.Pouranequalquantity intoeachcontainerallowingabout1cm/½ inch clearance at the top for the ice to expand during freezing. Freezeovernight.Thesearenothardbutsoftlolliesduetothealcoholcontent.

Blueberry&ButtermilkTheflavourdoesnotshoutatyou(noartificialextractsoressenceshere)butitisagood,healthylollyforadultsandchildren.

Puteverythingintoaliquidiserandblenduntiltheliquidislargelysmooth,butdiscernible bits of blueberry skins remain. Pour an equal quantity into eachmould, allowing about 1 cm/½ in clearance at the top for the ice to expandduringfreezing..

CaramelSyrup&MilkUsetherecipeforCaramelSyrup/Sauce(page274).

Measure the milk into a jug and stir in the caramel syrup, making sure it isthoroughlymixed.Pouranequalquantityintoeachmould,allowingabout1cm/½inclearanceatthetopfortheicetoexpandduringfreezing.

CardamomKulfi-StyleInalocalsupermarketrecentlywefoundabrandofevaporatedmilkthatcomesready flavouredwith cardamom. Itmade a delicious lolly.However since thiswas unlikely to be easily available internationally we decided that it was sodeliciousitwasworth theeffort tobuyplainevaporatedmilkandflavouritathome.

Pour the evaporated milk into a measuring jug. Crush the cardamom podssufficiently to release the seeds then stir the seeds and pods into the milk.Transferthejugtoamicrowaveandsettodefrostforabout15minutes.Stirandleavethe jugin themicrowaveforafurther15minutesorso.Removethe jugandstirinthesugar.Makeupthevolumeto550mlwithwater.Strainthemixthroughafinesieve,pressingthecardamomsfirmlywiththebackofaspoontoextractthemaximumflavour.(Rememberthattheflavourwillnottasteasstronginthefrozenlolly.)Stirtomakesurethesugarhasdissolvedthenpourintothelollymouldsandfreeze.

VARIATION:Substitute3Tbsprosewaterfor thecardamompodsintheaboverecipe.Thereisthennoneedtostrainthemixthroughasieve.

Delmonico’sTheDelmonico’sSorbet (seepage149)makesawonderful lolly, simplypour

the sorbet into moulds and freeze for at least 24 hours. A great start to abarbecue!Butperhapsnotfortheunder16’s!

AfterEightMints&Milk

Measure themilk into amicrowaveable jug.Add themints andmicrowave at900Wfor1½minutes.Stirconsistentlytobreakdownthemintsthenleaveasidefor a few minutes while assembling the moulds and clearing a space in thefreezer.Stirthemixtureagainuntilthemintshavecompletelydissolvedintothe

milk thenpour an equalquantityofmix into eachcontainer, allowingabout1cm/½inchclearanceatthetopfortheicetoexpandduringfreezing.

DrinkingChocolateThere was considerable debate about this one. We used Cadbury® ChocolateHighlights for it, 40 calories per cup. It makes an easy, delightful lolly forchildren, but please read the ingredients list on the side of the container andespeciallynotethecurrentbadboy,hydrogenatedfat.Wehavegoneaheadwiththisrecipebettingthatbythetimethisupdatedversionofthebookispublished,Cadburywillhaveremovedthisparticularingredient.

Add the drinking chocolate and sugar to the milk and whisk briefly to mix.Microwave on 900W for one minute. Whisk briefly, microwave for anotherminutethencool.Whencoolpourintolollymouldsallowingabout1cm/½inchclearanceatthetopfortheicetoexpandduringfreezing,andthenfreezeforatleast4hours.

CiderItprovedsurprisinglydifficulttogetawell-flavouredciderlollyuntilwehitonthenotionofreducingonecanofcidertoaboutone-thirdofitsoriginalvolume.Thesearegood,butnotparticularlyforchildren.

Pourthecontentsofonecan(orhalfthemeasuredquantity)ofciderintoasmallsaucepan.Bring to theboilandcontinue toboiluntil the liquidhasreduced to150ml.Stirinthelemonjuice,sugarandtheremainingcanofcider.Pourintololly moulds allowing about 1 cm/½ inch clearance at the top for the ice toexpandduringfreezing.

NOTE:Theselolliesneedeatingassoonastheyhavebeenremovedfromthefreezer.

CoconutMilkCoconutcreampowderissoldin160gboxesinspecialistThai/Chinese/Indianfood shops or in the international foods section of large supermarkets. It is ausefulproductthatmakesdeliciouslollies.

Measurethemilkintoamicrowaveablejug.Warmthemilkbymicrowavingat900Wfor1½minutes.Whiskinthecoconutpowderandsugar,andthenleaveasidetocool.Stiragainandpouranequalquantityintoeachcontainerallowingabout1cm/½inchclearanceatthetopfortheicetoexpandduringfreezing.

CoconutMilk&BananaFollowtheaboverecipe,adding2ripe,peeledbananasandreducing thesugarfrom4Tbspto3Tbsp.

Makesabout750ml/3cups/25floz.Forthemethod:-Asabove,butpourthewarmedmilkintoaliquidiser.Add

the coconut powder, sugar and peeled bananas cut in chunks. Blend untilsmooth.Cool, thenpour intomouldsallowingabout1cm/½ inchclearanceatthetopfortheicetoexpandduringfreezing.

InstantCoffee&Milk

Iftheselolliesaredestinedforamixedcrowdofadultsandchildrenthen2Tbspcoffeepowderwillbesufficient.Astrongerflavourisbestforadultsonly.

Measurethemilkintoajugandstirinthecoffeepowderandsugar.Leaveasidefor a fewminutes to dissolve.Stir again andpour an equal quantity into eachcontainerallowingabout1cm/½inchclearanceatthetopfortheicetoexpandduringfreezing.

Gin&TonicTheseareperfectforabarbecueandyoucansubstitutevodkaforthegin.

Combine the gin or vodka, sugar syrup, tonicwater and strained lemon juice.Stir,tasteandaddalittleadditionallemonjuice,ifpreferred.Coverandchillinthe fridge. Pour an equal quantity into each container allowing about 1 cm/½inchclearanceatthetopfortheicetoexpandduringfreezing.Freezeovernight.Thesearenothardlolliesbutsoftlolliesduetothealcoholcontent.

Welch’s®GrapeJuiceThisisoneofthesimplestrecipesinthebookusingtheoriginalWelch’sPurpleGrapeJuice.MadefromtheConcordgrape,itisjustpurejuice,noadditives.Itis high in effective antioxidants andmakes a perfect lolly. Just pour the juice

fromthecartonintothelollymouldsandfreeze.(Picturedbelow)

PinkGrapefruitThisrecipecameaboutbydefault.Wehadtriedseveraltimestomakealemonsuckerbut found theywere toosharp, requiring toomuchsugar.Lowering theamount of lemon juice merely gave a rather insipid flavour. So we turned to

grapefruit which is less aggressive and, nowadays, a definitely sweeter citrusfruit;especiallythepinkvariety.Itisdeliciousandrefreshingandisalsogoodifmintisinfusedinthemixovernight.

Position a large plastic sieve over ameasuring jug. Strain the grapefruit juiceintothejugtoobtain450ml.Stirinthesugarandmakeupthevolumeto550mlwithwater.Whenthesugarhasdissolvedpourintomouldsallowingabout1cm/½inchclearanceatthetopfortheicetoexpandduringfreezing.

KiwiEithergreenorgoldenkiwiscanbeused.

Peelthefruit,andremovethewhitecoreateachend.Cutintochunksandputinaliquidiserwiththeremainingingredients.Positionalargeplasticsieveoverameasuringjugandstrainthepulptoextractmostoftheseeds.Makeupto550mlwithwater.Pourintomouldsallowingabout1cm/½inchclearanceatthetopfortheicetoexpandduringfreezing.

MangoAsdiscussedelsewhereinthisbook,awell-flavouredmangoishardtofindwhenyouwantit,sothefrozenchunksofmangofleshnowavailableinsupermarketsareanoption.Perhapsmorereadilyavailableisthecannedpulp,butcheckthelabel.Youwantonlythenaturalpulp,notthesweetenedvariety.Werecommend

thevarietycalledAlphonsobecausetheflavourseemsbetterthanmost.Infactweoncefedanentirefoodconferenceamangoicewhichtheyassumedhadbeenmadefromfreshmangoes.Wehadusedthisbrandofpulp,butwedidn’townup.

Combine the ingredients together in ameasuring jug thenmake up to 550mlwithwater.Leaveasideforabout10minutestogivethesugartimetodissolve.Stirandpourintothemouldsallowingabout1cm/½inchclearanceatthetopforexpansionduringfreezing.

Mint&LimeRose’s Lime Juice was first produced in 1876 in Edinburgh, Scotland, byLauchlinRose,whoalsopatented thismethodofpreserving lime juicewithoutadding alcohol. It is internationally available. It makes a sharp-tasting, veryrefreshingsuckerbutperhapsalittletoosourforchildren.

Pourthelimejuiceintoameasuringjugandmakeupto600mlwithcoldwater.Pourabout100mlofthisintoaliquidiser,addthemintleavesandblendforaminute.Positiona finesieveoverameasuring jugandstrain themintmixturebackintotherestofthemix.Pressthepulpfirmlytoextractalltheflavourthenstirandpourtheblendintothemouldsallowingabout1cm/½inchclearanceatthetopfortheicetoexpandduringfreezing.

OrangeInthisrecipewehavegonebacktoaratherold-fashionedcookerypracticeof

whichMrs.Beetonmighthaveapproved.Itconsistsofrubbingsugarcubesovertheorangeskinstoextractjusttheflavouredoil,butnopiecesofpeel.Itisabitofa tediousprocess, soby-pass it if time is short,but ithelps tomakea lollywithastonkingnaturalflavour.

Puttheorangesinabowlofhot,soapywaterthenscrublightlywithabrushtoremovethesurfacewaxfromthefruit.Drytheorangeswellbeforerubbingtheskinsalloverwiththesugarcubesuntiltheytooareorange.Dropthecubesintoameasuring jug thenpositionasieveon top.Squeezeandstrain the juice intothe jug. You should have 400 ml. Add the lemon juice then stir in theconcentrate, if used. Make the mix up to 550 ml with cold water. Pour intomoulds allowingabout1 cm/½ inchclearanceat the top for the ice to expandduringfreezing.

PineapplePineapple is not a natural partner with milk or cream, but made as astraightforward ice it is at its best. The bestway to tell if a pineapple is ripeenoughtouseisthesmell.Leaveitstandingupontheworksurface.Whenthefruitisreadyitssmellwillfillthekitchen.

Putalltheingredientstogetherinaliquidiserandblenduntilsmooth.Positionalargeplasticsieveoverameasuringjugandstrainthepineapplepulp.Youwillneedtohelpitthroughthesieveandkeepgoinguntilallbutaboutatablespoonofpulpremains.Makeup to550mlwithwater.Pour themix into themouldsallowing about 1 cm/½ inch clearance at the top for the ice to expand duringfreezing.

DarkRum&Milk

Combinealltheingredientsinajugandstirfrequentlyuntilthesugardissolves.Pour the liquid into the lollymoulds,allowingabout1cm/½inchclearanceatthetopfortheicetoexpandduringfreezing.Freezeovernight.

SangriaStraightforwardtomakewithagoodflavourbutprobablynotsuitableforyoungchildren.Becauseof thealcoholcontentthesewillneedtoremainovernightinthefreezertobecomesufficientlyfrozentoserve.Mixalltheingredientstogether.Leaveasideforabout10minutestomakesurethesugarhasdissolvedthenpourintothelollymouldsallowingabout1cm/½inchclearanceatthetopfortheicetoexpandduringfreezing.

Strawberries&CreamTastesgoodanddefinitelylivesuptoitstitle.

Hull and rinse the strawberries under cold running water. Dry the berriesthoroughlyonkitchenpaper.Putall the ingredients intoa liquidiserandpulse,stoppingatthestagejustbeforethemixtureissmoothwhenthepiecesoffruitarestillclearlyidentifiable.Pourintoameasuringjugandmakethemixtureupto550mlwithwater.Transferthemixturetothemouldsallowingabout1cm/½inchclearanceatthetopfortheicetoexpandduringfreezing.

StrawberryorRaspberryThesearesuperb.Wehavekeptthemslightlyonthetartsidebecauseitmakesthemallthemorerefreshingandremovesthemevenfurtherfromacommercialflavour.

Combineall the ingredients inaprocessoror liquidiserandblend toa smoothpulp.

Positionafinesieveoverajugandrubthepulpthroughthesieve.Youmightneedtodothisinseveralbatches.Pourtheliquidintotheassembledcontainers,then freeze leavingabout1 cm/½ inchclearance at the top to allow the ice toexpandduringfreezing.

GreenTea&LemonAratheradult tastemadewithquitea strongconcentrationofgreen tea.Thisgives it a moderately bitter edge, rather like Campari, which might not besuitable for young children, butmakes for a very fresh-tasting lolly.Wemuchpreferthemethodofsteepingtheteaincoldwaterovernightbecauseitseemstolimit the amount of tannins and phenols, but maximises the extraction offragrances.Butiftimeisshortpourboilingwaterontothetea,leaveuntilcoldandpresson.Thisalsoworkswith theother fragrant typesof tea (EarlGrey,Lapsang),ratherthanthestrongteas.

Puttheteabagsinameasuringjugandmakeupto300ml/1¼cups/10flozwithcoldwater. Cover and refrigerate overnight, preferably 24 hours. Remove theteabags,squeezingeachonefirmlytoextracttheliquid.Addthelemonjuiceandsugarandleaveasideforabout10minutestoallowthesugartimetodissolve.Makeupto500ml/2cups/16flozwithcoldwater,stirandpourintothelollymouldsthenfreeze,allowingabout1cm/½inchclearanceatthetopfortheicetoexpandduringfreezing.

WatermelonThesework surprisinglywell and are really refreshing.Use only the colouredfleshof themelonandyouneednotbe too scrupulousabout removingall theseedsbeforeliquidisingasthesebitswillberemovedwhenstrained.

Combinealltheingredientsinaprocessororliquidiserandblendtosmoothishpulp.Positionafinesieveoverameasuringjugandstrainthepulptomeasure500ml.Pourtheliquidintothecontainers,leavingabout1cm/½inchclearanceatthetoptoallowtheicetoexpandduringfreezing.

Bombes&MouldedIces

As Elizabeth David points out, with the dazzling array of metal moulds thatstartedtoappearinthe18thcenturyconfectionerswereabletoconjurecentrepiecesandtabledecorationsthatwouldbefantasticeventothemoderneye.Initiallytheshapesweresimple,thatofplainwatericepyramidsorobelisks,

as these classical, tapering shapes were the most easily removed from themoulds. Fresh fruits were sometimes incorporated into the ice to add to theirvisualappealandexcitewonder.Makingbowlsandgobletsoutoficewasverypopularasitgavethecontentsamagicalpresentation.Anexampleofthelavishextravaganceandimmenseskillsofthetimeisfound

in an account of the banquet in August 1714, when the new AustrianAmbassadortoRome,GiovanniVincislaoDiGalasso,gaveareception,concertandfireworkdisplayinhonourofEmpressElisabettaCristinad’Austria.On topof thecentral table therewasa largevasemadeof ice,coloured to

looklikealabasterholdingasmalltreeonwhichwereattached150individuallyfrozen,mouldedfruits;thesefruitswerefilledwiththeirownjuices.The‘soil’inwhichtherootsofthetreewereplantedinthefauxalabastericeurnwasmadefromchocolatefoam.Anyonewhohaseverworkedwithmouldstoproducefrozenindividualfruits

willappreciate the ‘logistics’ofmaking150 fruits,all tobereadyat thesametime.Given the freezing techniquesusedat this timeand the fact that thiswasachievedinRome,attheheightofsummer,itisnothinglessthanatourdeforce.

‘Muchhasbeenwritten,andagooddealinvented,abouttheoriginoficesandthebirthoftheicecreamindustry.

Thesubjectisindeedofsomeinterest,inparticulartothesocialhistorian.Tomymind,however,oncegiventhe

successfulbreakthroughinthetechniqueofcreatingice,nopartoftheearlysagaismorestrikingthanthe

dazzlinglysimpleideaoftheman,whoeverhewas,whothoughtofapplyingthetechniqueofmetal-castingtothe

productionoficebowls,drinkinggoblets,andfruitdishes.’

ELIZABETHDAVID.

HARVESTOFTHECOLDMONTHS.1994.

AntoniodeRossiin1724isoneofthefirsttorecordthemakingofflavouredices,mouldedinmetalformsinsmallfruitshapes,intendedtobeeaten.Brydon in1774writing toWilliamBeckford,describesamealgivenby the

nobilityofAgrigentuminSicilytothelocalbishop:‘Thedessertconsistedofagreatvarietyoffruits,andstillagreaterofices:theseweresodisguisedintheshapesofpeaches,figs,oranges,nuts.&c.thatapersonunaccustomedtoicesmightveryeasilyhavebeentakenin,asanhonestseaofficerwaslatelyatthehouseofacertainministerofyouracquaintancenotlessdistinguishedfortheeleganceofhistable,thantheexactformalityandsubordinationtobeobservedatit.

Afterthesecondcoursewasremoved;andtheices,intheshapesofvariousfruitsandsweetmeats,advancedbywayofarearguard;oneoftheservantscarriedthefigureofafinelargepeachtothecaptain,who,unacquaintedwithdescriptofanykind,neverdoubtedthatitwasarealone;andcuttingthroughthemiddle,inamomenthadonelargehalfinhismouth;atfirstheonlylookedgrave,andblewouthischeekstogiveitmoreroom;buttheviolenceofthecoldsoongettingthebetterofhispatience,hebegantotumbleitaboutsidetosideinhismouth,hiseyesrushingoutofwater,tillatlast,abletoholditnolonger,hespititoutupinhisplate,exclaimingahorridoath.“ApaintedsnowballbyG-d!”andwipingawayhistearswithhisnapkin,heturnedinaragetotheItalianservantthathadhelpedhim,witha“d—nyourmacaronieyes,yousonofab----,whatdoyoumeanbythat?”–thefellow,whodidnotunderstandawordofit,couldnotforbearsmiling,whichstillmoreconvincedthecaptainthemorethatitwasatrick;hewasjustgoingto

throwofthesnowballinhisface,butwaspreventedbyoneofthecompany……’FROMATOURTHROUGHSICILYANDMALTA

INASERIESOFLETTERSTOWILLIAMBECKFORDESQ.,OFSOMERLYINSUFFOLKFROMP.BRYDONE,F.R.S.

VOLIILONDON1774.

Inthelatterpartofthe18thcenturymouldedicescontinuedtobemadebutwerenolongerthenoveltytheyhadbeenintheearlypartofthecentury.Itwasnotuntilthe19thcenturythatmouldedicesreally‘tookoff’.Thishappenedthroughthe increasing availability and use of both imported and locally farmed ice inEngland,ItalyandSpain,aswellasinAmerica,makingitpossibleformouldedices to bemade in the kitchens of the new,wealthy upper classes in the early19thcentury.Buttheystillremainedsomethingofararityduetothecostofthequantitiesoficeneededandthelackofskilledstaffwiththeknowledgeofhowtomakeandmouldices,atatimewhenliteracywasatalowlevel.During this period the complexity of the largermoulds increased.Whether

this was simply due to the skill of the metal casters, or the refining of theconfectioners skills, or merely the requirements of the rich for ever moreextravagantdisplaysoftheirwealthandstatus,ishardtosay.Pewter was the most common metal from which moulds were made, as it

meltedatalowtemperature,casteasilyandsetfast.Followingtheirinitialuseas forms for moulding pure water for decorative purposes only, they becamemorecomplicated,likethatofthepillarmould,witharemovablebaseandtopdesignedeasilytoreleasetheflavouredice.Theyincreasedincomplexitytothe

extentthatlargerandmoreelaboratemouldscouldsometimeshaveasmanyas20hingedparts.AmouldoftheStatueofLiberty,madebyEppelsheimerin1876is probably the most complicated mould ever made; almost 1 metre high (39inches)itrequiredapproximately17litresoficecream(4½USgallons)tofillit.Pewtershapescouldalsobeassmallenoughtoformindividualservingsor

sweetmeatsonthetable.Usuallyformedintwoequalpartswithacentralhinge,thesemouldswereimmenselydiverseinshapecoveringawiderangeof fruits,nuts,animals,emblemsetc.Allarenowhighlycollectible.Copper was the second choice as a metal for moulds. It offered superior

conductivity and could be beaten readily into shapes by a local coppersmith.Howeveritneedsliningwithtintopreventacids,e.g.infruit,reactingwiththecopperandusingtin,beingasoftmetalwhichwears,meantthelininghadtobemaintained.The Industrial Revolution provided machinery that could stamp out

complicatedcoppermoulds,relativelyinexpensively.Mostoftheornatemouldswereintendedforjelliesandblancmanges.Thoseintendedtomouldicesalwayshavearathersimplershapeandwillbeenclosedbyalidtopreventthesaltandicecontaminatingtheicecream.Sometimesapedestalscrewthatformsabaseforthefreezingicecream,unscrewstoreleasetheairlockandmakeiteasiertounmould.Unlikepewter,coppericecreammouldsareneverhingedasthemetalistoosofttobeworkedinthismanner.

Inthemid19thcenturypewtermouldmakersthrivedinEuropeandAmerica.InLondon,theforemostwereBiertumpfel,Englefields,Harton,BenhomandYatesinBirmingham.PewtermouldswerealsomadeinFrance,(Cadot,Antoine)and

in theUSA.Here,manymakerswere in competitionwith eachother,and it isinteresting to see the rather more frivolous and quirky moulds they made incontrast to the Europeans. The Americans often favoured large moulds ofpeople,animals,andevents.TheLondon-basedcompanyofBenhammadebothcopper and pewter moulds which was unusual. Although copper moulds areavidlycollected,peopleinterestedinthehistoryoficecreamconcentratealmostexclusivelyonpewtermoulds.InEnglandtheresurgenceofinterestinicecreamwasspearheadedbyAgnes

Marshall,adoughtyVictoriancookerywriterwhoranoneof the firstcookeryschools inEngland inMortimerStreet inLondon.Shepublished twobooksonices.ThefirstwasTheBookofIces,in1885,followedbyFancyIces,in1894.Shealsodevelopedherownice-creamchurningmachineandicecave(freezer)andsoldawiderangeoficecreamandsorbetmouldsaswellasicedwatercupsinwhichtoserveicecream.Sheconductedclassesinmakingandmouldingiceswhere the students would be taught how to make up to 15 ices in one day.Uniqueinherday,sheseemstohavebeenaone-womanindustry.Pewtermouldscontinuedtobemadewellintothe20thcentury,especiallyin

the USA, however two world wars, food rationing or shortages and lack ofservants,aswellasthelossofnovelty,-sawtheirdemiseinthelastpartofthe20thcentury.

MakingMouldedIcesWhateveryouhaveeverreadaboutmouldedicesorbombes,treatwithagreatdeal of suspicion. An ice that eventually emerges as a sorry-looking meltingmass,withagranitehardcorethatresistsevenahotknife,wewouldjudgeashavingnot‘worked’.Usingthisasourcriterion,webelievethatthemajorityofrecipes have not been tested, because with the knowledge we now have, weknowtheywouldneverwork.Sincethis typeofdessert takestimeandtroubleandusesexpensiveingredients,itissomethingyouwouldprobablyonlydoforspecialoccasions;allthemorereasontolookforguaranteedresults.

Moulding ices is not straightforward.Youhave to overcome several inbuiltdesignproblems to achieve a respectable-looking turned-outmouldwhich is acombinationofdifferenticesandflavourings,andwhichcanreadilybecutandserved.

Thefirstthingtoconsideristhemould.Ifyouhaveanyantiqueice-creambombesormetalmouldswestronglyrecommendthatthesearekeptsolelytodecorateyourkitchenandnotputtoanypracticaluse.Themetalsmaywellbetoxic.

However, before rushing out to buy expensive new moulds pause andconsiderifyouarelikelytogetsufficientuseoutofthemtojustifytheexpense.Oneofthemostsuccessfulmouldsisasimpleplasticpuddingbasin.Itconductshot and cold temperatures quickly and is flexible.This flexibility is importantbecause it allows thebowl tobe squeezedgently todeform the shape slightly,pullingthebowloutofcontactwiththefrozenicecream.Thisallowsairupintothebaseofthemouldandreleasestheairlockwhichdepositstheiceneatlyonto the plate. The ice can then be decoratedwith allmanner of cream, fruit orchocolatetodisguisethehumbleoriginoftheshapeanditcanbesmoothedwithaknifetomodifytheangleofthebase.

Ifyouconsider itworth theoutlay, thenof the types that areavailable (seeEquipmentpage46)wewouldrecommendyouchooseoneofthefollowing:-1.Tin-linedcopperbombe

A plain, classic beehive shape. This has a lid on the base and screw in therounded top that is removed to release the air lockwhen turning out the ice.Expensive.SeeUsefulAddressespage324.2.Aluminiumbombe

Various plain shapes, from tall rounded conical to beehive shape similar toabove. No screw to release the air lock; but the metal is soft enough to beflexible so the mould can be gently squeezed to release the ice in the samemannerastheplasticbowldescribedabove.Cheap.3.Siliconemoulds

Therecentlydevelopedsiliconemoulds forbakingarealso ideal formouldingices.Justcheckthattheywillwithstandthetemperaturesofupto-25°C(-13°F)inyourfreezer.Thesemayrequiresupportinthefreezertokeeptheicecreamlevelinthemould.Moderatelypriced.

Decorated moulds, e.g. those primarily used for cakes, can require carefulfillingtoavoidairpocketsandtheyarenotsoeasytoturnout.Sincetheverynatureoficecreamistomelt,someblurringofthedetailisinevitableandoftentheresultisdisappointingifyouhadbeenexpectingaduplicateofthetin,inicecreamorsorbet.

Sincewritingourlastbook,hingedmouldshaveallbutdisappearedfromthemarket.OftheveryfewmakersthatremaintheFrenchcompanyofCadenet(seeUsefulAddresses)offersthemostvariedselection.

Wedonotrecommendusingpotteryformouldingices.Suchbasins,eveniftheywillwithstandfreezing,havenoflexibilityandholdtheheat,whichcausesan unnecessary amount of melting to the outside of the ice. Freezer-to-oven

glasswarecanbeused.NOTE: There seems to be some confusion between chocolate and ice-cream

moulds.Thedifferenceisverysimple;ice-creammouldsarealwayssealedwitheitheralidorabase.Chocolatemouldsareusuallyintwo,separatehalvesheldtogetherwithclipsandareopen-endedinorderthatmeltedchocolatecanreadilybepouredinandouttobuildupsufficientlayerstomakeacasting.

BombeMixturesItisalmostimpossibletomakeasuccessfulbombeoutofonetypeoficecreambecauseitcannotbethawedevenlythroughout.Buttherearetwoexceptions:1.Mouldsthataresmallenoughtoserveasindividualportionsaresmallenoughtothawuniformly.

2.Largemouldsaresuccessfuliftheicecreamismadeandthemouldfilledandfrozenfornomorethan2hours.Atthisstagetheoutsideisfrozenhardenoughtosuccessfullyunmouldtheiceandthecentrehasnothadsufficienttimetobefully hardened; so just 10-20 minutes in the fridge will soften the outsidesufficiently for the entire bombe to cut nicely when served. (In fact, whenmouldswere in theirheyday in the19thcentury that ishowmoulded icesandbombeswouldhavebeenmade.Theicecavesinwhichthebombe/mouldswerefrozenwouldhaveachievedtemperaturessimilartoamodernfreezerbutwouldnothavebeencapableofsustainingthesetemperaturesforlongperiodswithoutthefrequentadditionofquantitiesofsaltandice;whichmakesitarguablethatthemodernfreezeristhebaneofgoodice-creammakingasittakesicesdowntotemperaturesthatarereallylow.)

Nowadays,theaimistoachieveauniformconsistencythroughouttheturned-out ice, soft enough to eatbut firmenough to serve.This is only achievedbyusingonetypeoficeoricecreamfortheliningandanotherforthecentre.Thelining can be either an ice cream or a sorbet, the centre needs moreconsideration.Giventhatair,whenitdisplaceswater,givesasofterice,thecoremustbeanicethatcontainsahigherproportionofairthantheoutershell.

More air canbe trappedmost readily inbeaten eggor cream; alternatively,alcohol lowers the temperature at which the mixture will freeze so makes asofterice.Soanyoftheseelementssinglyorincombination,areneededtomakeupthecentralcoreofthebombe.

Formakingmediumtolargebombesourfavouritemethodistouseaspoom(pages216,227and230)forthecentreofabombe.Aspoomissimplyasorbetintowhich beaten egg-white has been added. The presence of the beaten eggwhites and the airwhich they entrap is sufficient tokeep the centre soft.Thistype of ice is easily made and light and fresh in flavour. Also now that

pasteurised egg whites are available there is no longer any risk in usinguncookedeggwhitesinaspoom.

Youcanalsogetgoodresultsusingaparfait(page71)insideabombeasthismixturecontainsbothbeateneggandalcohol.This ice ismorecomplicated tomakeandgivesaricher,moreluxuriousflavourforthegranderoccasions.

Alternativelyusearecipethatcontainsalcoholasitwillbesofterandeasiertoservefromthefreezer,suchasBailey’sOriginalIceCream(page94).

NOTE:Sincemouldscomeinallshapesandsizesbepreparedforsomerecipesto be in excess of what is needed to fill a mould. Sometimes it is eitherimpracticalormathematicallyimpossibletoscaledownrecipestogettheexactamount.Itismuchsimplertomakeupafullrecipeandstoreanyexcess.

AssemblingBombesTo make bombes needs patience as it takes time to get each ice to the rightconsistencyforeachstage.Fortheclassicstyleofbombe,intwoormorelayers,startmakingatleastadayinadvance.

Alwayschill themouldforat least30minutesinthefreezer,beforeputtingthelining(outside)iceintothebombemould.Itisimportanttohavetheliningice cream at a fairly stiffly frozen consistency where it can be pushed intopositionandstaythere.Afterabrieffreezing,about30minutes,itwillprobablyneedsomeadjustmentandrepairworktosmoothitoutandmakesurethatitisaneventhickness.

Freezetheoutsidelayeruntilfirm,thenputinthecentre,makingsurethatitisfirmlypackedandthattherearenoairpockets.

Leaveasmallgapatthetopofthemouldforexpansionasicesexpandabout5%during freezing.Coverwitha roundof freezer-layering tissueorwaxedorgreaseproof paper, put on the lid and freeze for a minimum of 2 hours orovernight.

Toturnoutthebombe/mouldwehavefoundthatdippingitintoabowlfulloflukewarmwateristhebestmethod.(Hotwatermeltsthesurfaceoftheicetoomuch;coldwatersimplyfreezesontheexteriorofthecontainerandhottowelsaredifficult tohandleandareawkwardtoarrangesothat thewholesurfaceofthemouldgetsanevenheat.)

So, taking it directly from the freezer, plunge the mould up to its neck inwarm water (35°C/95°F) for 10 seconds, and dry the mould with a cloth.Removethelidandpeelofftheliningpaper.Invertontoachilledplateordishand gently squeeze themould if plastic or aluminium to release the air lock,unscrew the plug if copper, and the ice should come cleanly away from the

mould.Ifanyrepairingisneeded, i.e.smoothingover thesurface, this isdonenow

and the iced bombe returned to the freezer just long enough to re-freeze thesurface,about30minutesoruntilneeded.Putinthefridgefor10-20minutestosoften sufficiently for serving.Youcanalways try a trial cut tomake sure theinside issoftenedsufficiently,andrepair thecutwithamelaminespoonor thebladeofaknifedippedinwarmwaterbeforeyouservethebombe.

Ifyouaregoingtodecoratethebombewepreferadecorationwhichgivesthedinersomeclueastothecontentsofthebombe.

BombeRecipesThe list of classic bombes, at the endof this chapter, gives an ideaof how tomatchharmonisingflavours.Allsortsofpermutationsarepossibleusingtheicesinthisbook,providedyousticktotheruleswesuggest.

However,making a classic-style bombe is a fairly lengthyprocess, and theresult is rich. Below are some suggestions for bombes/moulds more quicklymadeoflightertypesofices–perhapsmoresuitedtotoday’stastes.

A final tip. In company with Ivan Day and John Gauder we spent a longweekend trying to mould ices in all the most complicated moulds that wepossessed.We found thatwith a little practice, amazingly successfulmouldedicescanbemade.Mostsurprisingwasthatsorbetontheoutsidekeepstheshapeof the mould and thaws slower than ice cream. Some of the results of thisweekendcanbeseenonIvanDay’swebsitewww.historicfood.com.

StrawberrySorbet&FramboiseIce-CreamRingUsingtheEasyNo-CookPhiladelphiaVanillaIceCreamcutsdownsomeoftheworkandaddingtheframboisemarriesitverysuccessfullywiththelight,fresh-tastingStrawberrySorbet.Usingaringmouldmeansthatitcanbeassembledinonego.Theringmakesaveryattractivesummericecreamifthecentreisfilledwith summer soft fruits and servedwith a red berry sauce.Using these basicideasmanyothercombinationsarepossibleusingotherno-cookicecreamandsorbetsinthebook.

Youwillneeda1.75litre/7¼cup/60flozringmould.

Make the ice cream according to the recipe (see page 236), reducing theamount of vanilla to ½ tsp and stirring in the framboise liqueur just beforechurning.Transfer to the fridge to harden sufficiently to use; notmore than 2hours.

Thenmake up the sorbet as per recipe and refrigerate until firm enough toscoop.Thirtyminutesbeforeyouestimatetheiceswillbereadytoassemble,puttheringmouldinthefreezer.

When ready, fill themouldwith alternate large spoonfuls of sorbet and icecream, pressing each addition firmly up against the preceding ice.Coverwithfreezer-layeringtissueandfreeze.

Unmould according to instructions, turning out on to a well chilled plate.Immediately fill the centrewith a combination of prepared summer fruits anddecoratewithfreshleaves,andreturntothefridgeforabout20minutestosoftensufficiently.Servewitharedberrysauce.

BlackberrySpoom&SorbetBombeThisbombeusesasinglebasicsorbetmix,halfofwhichisusedasasorbetforthelining,theotherhalfcombinedwithmeringuetomakeaspoomtoformthesoft inner core. Very light, very fresh-tasting, utterly delicious, it contains nocreamatall.

You will need a bombe mould of approximately 1 ½ litres/6 cups/50 fl ozcapacity.Make the sorbetmixture anddivide the liquidmix in two.Make thefirstpartintoasorbetandlineabombemouldwithit,makingsurethewallsareofaneventhickness.Freezetillsolid.

In a medium-sized grease-free bowl beat the egg white with a hand-heldelectric beater until it forms soft peaks, then gradually add the sugar andcontinuebeatinguntilitformsstiffpeaks.Takethesecondhalfofthesorbetmixandfoldtheliquidintothemeringue,alittleatatime,makingsurethatthepureeiscompletelymixedwith themeringue.Pour into thecentreof thebombeandfreeze.

Toturnoutfollowtheinstructionsonpage260.

ChristmasCakeIceCreamwithBrandyParfaitAfter theheavinessofaChristmasdinner thisbombe isawelcomerelief fromChristmaspudding.Thetworecipescombinedmake2.2litres/9cups/72flozsoyoucanmaketwo

bombes, using plastic pudding basins as moulds to echo the traditionalChristmas pudding basin shape. And we strongly recommend making 2 × 1litre/4 cup/ 32 fl oz bombes rather than one large one. Smaller bombes areeasiertothawandserve.OnerecipeChristmasCakeIceCream(seepage135)OnerecipeBrandyParfait(seepage71)

NOTE:Thisissufficienttoserve12-16people.Helpfulwhencateringforalargenumberofpeople.

MaketheChristmasCakeIceCreamaccordingtotherecipeandfreezeforabout1-2hoursuntilitistherightconsistencytolineabombemould.Evenifyouareusingplasticmouldsitisagoodideatochillthemfor30minutesinthefreezer.Linethemouldsandfreeze.Checkafterabout1hourinthefreezerandneaten, if necessary.While they are freezing,make the parfait andwhen it isreadypourintothecentreofthemoulds.Coverwithfreezerfilmorgreaseproofpaperandfreezeovernight.Toturnoutfollowtheinstructionsonpage260.

Christopher’sBombeSurpriseThisrecipecomesfromaveryinnovativecook,JoscelineDimbleby.Backinthe

eighties she was at her peak, turning out little gems like a small paperbackcalledSweetDreams,publishedbySainsbury’s,thesupermarketchain.Shehasallowedustoprintthisrecipefromherbookwhich,asshedescribesit,isanicecreamwithasharp lemon flavourwhichenclosesanamazing fillingofgrateddarkchocolatewhichspillsoutwhencutopen.Thisrecipecametotheforewhenwestartedwritingaboutthedifficultyofdealingwiththegranitehardcoreofafrozenbombe.Itcompletelysolvestheprobleminaverydifferentandinterestingway.Serves8.

Put the eggwhites in the bowl of an electric standmixer, set themachine inmotionandleavetowhiskuntilstiff.

Meanwhile,quicklyput thestrainedlemonjuice intoasmallsaucepanwiththecastersugarandgelatine.Stiroveralowheatuntil thesugarhasdissolvedthenbringtotheboilandboilbrisklyfor3minutes.Removethepanfromtheheat and immediately pour into the egg whites in a thin stream, whilst themachine remains whisking at high speed. Continue to whisk until cooled tobloodheat.

Pourthechilledcreamintoaseparatebowlandwhiskuntilitwilljustholdashape. Gently combine the two mixtures, folding them together with a largespoontoretaintheair.

Pourthemixtureintoachilled1.2litre/2pintplasticorfreezer-friendlyglasspuddingbasin.Workthemixtureupthesideofthebasin,leavingahollowinthemiddle.Coverwithclingfilmandfreezeforatleast5hours.

Whenfrozen,scoopouttheicecreamfromthecentreleavinganeathollow;reservetheremovedicecreaminabowl.Spooninsufficientgratedchocolatetofill the cavity then smooth the softened, reserved ice cream over the top toenclosethechocolate.Coveragainwithclingfilmandreturntothefreezerforatleast1hour.

Tounmouldseepage260.Themouldcanbekeptinthefridgeforupto30minutesbeforeserving,otherwisereturnittothefreezer,thenallowitabout15minutesinthefridgetosoftensufficientlybeforeserving.

BombeMarieIn1996Ihadthepleasureofworkingwithadelightfullady,MaryBerry.SheisawellestablishedandtrustedcookintheUKandcanbereliedontocomeupwiththebestsolutionsforallmannerofcookerydilemmas.Here,shecameupwithaverycleverrecipeformouldingtwoflavoursoficecreamintwoordinaryglasspuddingbasinswith theminimum fuss.Themould is linedwith rum-andcoffee-flavoured icecreamwithan inner layerofgratedchocolateandvanillaicecreamatthecentre.Donotbeintimidatedbythelengthofthemethod,itisverysimpleandstraightforwardandonceyouhavedoneit,Iamwillingtobetyouwilldoitagain.Whatbetterendorsementisthereforarecipe?Therecipeoriginallyappearedinherbook,MaryBerryatHome,publishedbytheBBCtoaccompanyatelevisionseriesandtherearemorelovelyrecipesinthere.

Youwillneed1×2.25 litre (4¾U.S.pint/76 floz)and2×900ml (2U.S.pint/30floz)freezer-proofbowlstomakethebombe.Beforestartingtherecipe,putthebowlsinthefreezer.Youwillalsoneedanold,cleanstandard-sizecottonreelorsomethingofasimilarsizediameter).

Measuretheinstantcoffeeintoacupandmixwiththeboilingwater.Leaveononesidetocool.

Separatetheeggs,puttingthewhitesinalarge,grease-freebowlandtheeggyolks in a separate bowl.The next stage involves a lot ofwhisking so use anelectrichandwhiskifyouhaveone.Startbywhiskingtheeggwhitesuntiltheystandinfirmpeaks,thengraduallywhiskinthemeasuredsugar,ateaspoonata

time.When all the sugar has been added and themixture has formed a stiff,shinymeringue,brieflywhisktheeggyolks, thenwhiskthecreamjustenoughforittothickentoafloppyconsistency.Combinetheyolks,cream,vanillaintothe eggwhites so that it is evenlymixed– this is easilydoneusing aballoonwhisk.Fill1×900ml(30floz/2U.S.pint)chilledbowltothetopwithsomeofthemixture.Coverwithclingfilmorfreezerfilmandreplaceinthefreezer.

Mixthecooledcoffeeandbrandyintotheremainingvanilla-creammixandpourintoalargemeasuringjug.Removetheremainingbowlsfromthefreezer.Position the cotton reel centrally in the base of the large bowl and stand thesmallerbowlon topof the cotton reel.Check that the smallerbowl is centredandcarefullypourthecoffee-brandymixtureintothegapbetweenthetwobowlsuntil the mix reaches the rim. Holding the bowls firmly in place, carefullyreplace them in the freezer. Freeze all the ice cream for a minimum of fourhours.

Remove the small bowl of vanilla ice cream from the freezer and leave atroom temperature for 15 minutes. Meanwhile take the large bowl from thefreezer. Rinse out a clean cloth in hot water and put it in the smaller centralbowl. Repeat, rinsing the cloth once or twice more until the inner bowl haswarmedsufficientlyforyoutotwistitandthenremoveit.

Teaseoutthecottonreelandusethebowlofaspoontofillandsmoothoverthehole.Leaveforseveralminutessothattheicecreammeltsslightly,thenusehalfthegratedchocolatetoevenlycoatthehollowleftbyremovingthesmallerbowl.Ithelpsifyouusealargespoontospread,thengentlypressthechocolateontothesidesofthehollow.

Takethesmallbowlofvanillaicecreamanddipit,foracountof15-20,inabowl of hotwater. Cover one handwith a sheet of clingfilm and turn the icecreamoutontoit.Immediatelyturntheicecreamintothematchingchocolate-lined cavity in the coffee brandy ice creamandpress it firmly to bond all thelayerstogether.Spreadthetopflatwithapaletteknife,coverwithclingfilmorfreezerfilmandreplaceinthefreezer.Freezeagainforatleast8hours.

Dipthebowlinhotwaterforthecountoften.Theninvertonaservingdish.Quicklysprinkletheicecreamwiththeremaininggratedchocolate,coverwithclingfilmorfreezerfilm.(Picturepage265)

TOSERVE:Thaw for about15minutes in the fridge, cut inwedges like acake,andserve.Ithelpstouseahot,wetknifeforcutting.

TOFREEZE:Freeze completely coveredwith grated chocolate for up to 1month

BombesThis selection of bombes is taken from Ma Cuisine by Auguste Escoffier,Flammarion&Cie,Paris,1934,andCookingàlaRitzbyLouisDiat,whowasthechefattheRitzCarlton,NewYork,publishedbyRestaurantTradeJournal,London,c.1930.

Itwillgivesomeideaofthewidevarietyoftypesofbombesthatexist.Infactthe name of the bombe can frequently describe completely differentcombinationsoficesinanyonebombedependingonthesourceoftherecipe.

There seems to be no definitive guide or list, butHerrings Dictionary ofClassicalandModernCookery,originallyLexiconderKuche,has147differentcombinationsandRepertoiredelaCuisinehas126.Althoughmanyofthesearecommontobothlists,eachhasanumberofuniqueones.

Sauces&Syrups

After labouring to produce good, homemade ice cream, it seems less thansensibletocoveritwithasaucethatdoesnotenhanceit.Wewouldlikeyoutoserveyourhomemadeicecreamwiththebest,sowehavegivencarefulthoughtandconsiderationtotherecipesbelow,with,astheysayincookerybooks,someinterestingservingsuggestions.

ApricotSauceIn a taste test comparing fresh, raw, poached, canned, jammed and driedapricots,thedriedvarietygavethebestflavouredsauce.Deliciouswithallthecrèmefraîche,sourcream,buttermilkandalmondices.Sogood,itgoeswithallmannerofhotspongecakesandpuddings–andisdeliciousspreadonbread.

Some no soak apricots are rather chewy so put them in a small panwith thesugarsyrupandbringslowlytotheboil.Coverandleaveasideuntilcold.

Processthecontentsofthepanwiththelemonjuice.Itwillneed2-3minutestobecomeaslightlyroughpuree.

Taste. The sauce will be fairly thick. Thin with water or additional lemonjuiceifpreferred.Servehotorcold.Willkeepinasmallcoveredcontainerinthefridgeforatleastaweek.*Thesearesoftdriedapricotsthatcanbeeatenwithoutcooking.

HotBlueberrySauceBlueberriesbenefitfrombeingservedhot.Itbringsforwardtothemaximumthe

sometimeselusiveflavourofcultivatedblueberries,butthesaucecanbeservedcoldifyouprefer.Ifservingwithsomeof thespecialitydairy ices,(buttermilk,crèmefraîche,andgoat’smilk)tryaddingjustalittlegintothesauce.

Rinse the berries in coldwater.Drain and turn onto a tray linedwith kitchenpaper.Roll theberries toandfro,pickingoutanygreenordamagedberriesoranystalks.Tipintoasautépanandaddthesugarandthestrainedlemonjuice.Coverwithalidandputoveralowheatfor8minutes.Removethepanfromtheheat.Add the vanilla, stir tomix, then taste and adjust the flavourwithmoresugarandaddlemonjuice:Servehotorcold.

ButterscotchSauceCan be served hot or cold andwill keep happily for up to threeweeks in thefridge ina screw-top jar.As the sauce cools itwill thicken, so served straightfromthefridgeitisusuallypreferabletothinitwithalittlewater,orifyouaregoingforbust,cream.

Combinethefirst4ingredientstogetherinasaucepanandcookoveraverylowheatuntiltheingredientshavemeltedandmostofthesugardissolved.Raisetheheatalittletobringthemixturetoagentleboilandleavetocookinthismanner,

uncovered, for 5minutes, stirringoccasionally.Remove thepan from theheatandstirinthecreamandvanillaextract.Thesauceisnowreadytoserve.

DoubleChocolateSauceWhatwehaveaimedforhereisanintensechocolatesaucewiththeminimumofunnecessaryadditivesoradditions.

Combinethecocoapowderandsugarwith375ml/1½cups/12flozofwaterinasmallsaucepan.

Bring to the boil, and then boil gently for 5minutes, stirring occasionally.(Watch the pan very carefully because the mixture behaves like milk and ispronetoboilingover.)Removethepanfromheatandleaveasidefor10minutesbeforestirringinthebutter,thenthechocolate.Whenthesehavedissolvedaddthelemonjuiceandsalt.

Servewarmor cold.This saucewill keep in a jar in the fridge for up to 3weeks.

Whenrequiredsitthejarinhotwaterbeforeusing.

SharpChocolateSauceYouwillprobablytastethissauceandthinkwehavegotitwrong;itisvergingon the sour.Butplease,before reaching for the sugar, try itwith icecream. Itworks,itworksreallywell.

Inasmallheavysaucepancombinethechocolate,brokenintosquares,andthebutter. Put the pan, preferably on a heat deflector, over a low heat and leavechocolatetomelt,stirringoccasionally.Whenmeltedandsmoothgraduallystirin the buttermilk. If this is added all at once the chocolate will seize and gogranular,thenitwillneedwhisking,keepingitoveralowheattogetridofthegranulartexture.

Servethesauce,hot,spoonedovericecream.Canbestoredinaliddedjarinthefridgeforuptoaweek.Tore-heat,removethelid,zapinthemicrowaveforaminuteat600W,stirbriskly(itwill lookawful).Addaminutedashofwaterfromthecoldtap.Stiragainandthesaucewillbesmoothandhotandreadytoserve.

ChocolateFudgeSauceThiscanrightlybedescribedasall-purpose.Asasauceitcanbeservedhotorcold,butitalsohastheadvantageofremainingthesameconsistencyasanicecreamwhenfrozenandsomakesanexcellentrippleinvanilla,banana,chestnut,coffeeorpearicecreams.

Combine the first 4 ingredients together in a saucepan, and add the sievedcocoapowder.Cookoveraverylowheatuntiltheingredientshavemeltedandmostofthesugardissolved.Raisetheheatalittletobringthemixturetoagentleboilandleavetocookinthismanner,uncovered,for5minutes.Removethepanfrom the heat and stir in the cream, then the chopped chocolate and vanilla.Whenthechocolatehasmeltedreturnthepantotheheat,bringtotheboilandboil gently for 1 minute, whisking steadily. The sauce will now be smooth.Allowtocoolalittlebeforeservinghotorserveatroomtemperature,orchilled.Thesaucewillkeep in the fridge ina screw-top jar forup to3weeks.As thesauce cools itwill thicken, so served straight from the fridge itwill probablyneedthinningwithalittleadditionalcream.

RIPPLESIfyouintendusingChocolateFudgeSauceinthisway,worktoabasicformulaof125ml/½cup/4flozof(roomtemperature)sauceto1litre/4cups/32flozoffreshlymadeicecream.

We recommend using a rectangular plastic freezer box about 1½ times thecapacity needed, as this will give enough space to fold the 2 mixes togetherwithoutlosinganyoverboard.

Quicklyspreadhalfthefreshlychurnedicecreaminalayercoveringthebaseof the box, then blob small spoons of half the sauce on top to give an erraticlayer; don’t attempt to spread it. Repeat the layering with the remaining icecreamandsaucethenusealargespoontoturnthemixoverfromtoptobottomof the box about 3 times. This should haphazardly combine the 2 mixturesleaving clear seams of fudge sauce patterned throughout the ice cream.Coverandfreezeintheusualway.

MilkChocolateSauceUseyourfavouritecheapchocolatetomakethisveryeasy,child-friendlysauce.

MicrowavemethodPourthecreamintoamedium-sizedmicrowaveablebowl.Coverwithaplateandmicrowaveonhighfor1½minutes.Removeandadd thechocolatepieces.Recoverand leaveaside forabout5minutes.Whiskuntilsmooth.

SaucepanmethodBring the cream to the boil in a saucepan.Remove the pan from theheat and add the chocolate pieces.Coverandleaveasideforabout5minutes.Whiskuntilsmooth,andthenserve.

CiderSauceWithredandwhitewinesbeingtooemphaticinflavour,acider-flavouredsaucemakes a happy alternative to servewith ice creams, and puddings in general,cometothat.Anon-vintage,dryciderlikeScrumpyJack,thebrandusedhere,isaveryusefulkitchenstaple.

Mix together thepotatoflourandabout2Tbspcider takenfromthemeasuredamount.Pour thepotato flourblendand the remainingcider intoa smallnon-stick pan.Add the cloves, and sultanas if used.Bring to the boil stirring thenadjusttheheattogiveagentleboilandcookuncoveredfor10minutes.

Removefromtheheatandaddthe lemonjuice,andsugar to taste.Remove

thecloves.Servewarmorcold.Suitsahostoficecreams,butnotthechocolateornut-basedvarieties.

LightLemon&SultanaSauceThe simplest sauces seem towork best with ice cream. This one has a clean,clear and slightly sharp flavour that counterbalances richness. It goesparticularlywellwithappleandpearicecreams.

Washanddry the lemon.Remove thezest,preferablyusinga lemonzester,orfinelygrateintoasmallsaucepan.Mixwiththecornflourandsugar;thenusingasmallwhisk,graduallyblendin250ml/1cup/8flozofcoldwater.Bringtothe boil over a moderate heat, stirring. Boil gently for 2-3minutes, and thenremove the pan from the heat. Add the strained juice of the lemon and thesultanas.Servewarmorcold.Usewithinaday.

MarmaladeSauceA gentle but definite marmalade flavour. We used Frank Cooper’s Vintagemarmaladeto test therecipewhichhascoarsecutSevilleorangepeel in it,soyoumayprefertostrainthesaucebeforeserving.

Spoonthemarmaladeintoasmallnon-sticksaucepan.Measure250ml/1cup/8flozofwaterintoameasuringjug.Thenuseabout

2Tbspofthemeasuredwatertoblendwiththepotatoflourinasmallbowl;thenaddtheblendandtheremainingwatertothepancontainingthemarmalade.

Bringtotheboilstirringfrequently,thencontinuetoboilgently,uncovered,for5minutes.Removethepanfromtheheatandaddthelemonjuiceandsugar.Tasteandadjusttheflavourifyouseefit.Servewarmorcold.Goodwithbasicchocolateicecreamsandgelato,oranyofthedairy-typeices.

FreshMincemeatSauceAstrangetitle,becausethisisadelightfulold-fashionedrecipe.Itistakenfromthemagnificent classic, TheConstance SpryCookeryBook.We have had thecheek tomodify it slightly. The original recipe fries the slivered almonds in alittlebutterbeforeaddingthefruitsandfryingquicklyfor3-4minutes.Thereisnothing to stop youdoing that, especially if youwould like to serve the saucehot. Or try the recipe below without butter and zapped in a microwave.Whichevermethodservethesameday,hotandspoonedoverdairyicesorcoldasabaseforicecreamsandsorbets;delightful.

Put all the prepared fruit in a bowl with the zested lemon rind. Cover withclingfilm/Saranwrap(make2-3airholesinit)thenmicrowavefor2minutesat900W.Removeandstir in thenuts, rindand lemon juice.Tasteandaddsugarandflavouringsifrequired.

PassionFruitSauceAn exotic, fresh-tasting, orange-red opaque sauce; using the whole fruitmaximisesthecolourofthesauce.

Washthepassionfruitinhotsoapywater;rinseanddry.Quarterthefruitandputinafoodprocessorwiththepotatoflour.Pulsebriefly,forabout10seconds.Atthisstagethefruitskinswillstillbequitechunky.Pourthefruitpulpintoasmallsaucepanandadd300ml/1¼cups/10flozwater.

Bring to the boil, and then adjust the heat to give a gentle boil and cook,covered,forafurther5minutes.Stirfromtimetotime.

Removethepanfromtheheat.Positionafinesieveoverabowlandpressthefruit, to extract asmuch liquid as possible. (Thebowlof a soup ladle is quitegoodtoexertpressure,withoutrubbingthefruitthroughthesieve.)

Addthesugarsyrupandlimejuicethenstirandtaste.Addalittlemoresugar,about2teaspoons,tobalancethesweetness,ifpreferred.Servewarmorcold.

Goodservedoverorunderfruit-andcream-basedicecream.Greatwithriceicecream.

PeachorNectarineSauce

Theseneedpeelingfirst,soputthefruitinalargeheat-proofbowlandpourinboilingwatertocover.Leaveasidefor3to5minutesdependingontheripenessofthefruit,thendrain,coolandpeel.

Halvethefruitsfollowingthenaturalcleft,twistbetweenbothhandstopartthetwohalves,andthenremovethestones.

Youcanprocessthefruitwithhalfthesugaruntilchunkyoruntilsmooth.Itneednotbesieved.Tasteaddingsugarandperhapslemonjuicetoget thebestflavour.Storeinasealedcontainerinthefridgeuntilreadytoserve.

PineappleSauceShop-bought pineapple sauce is not nice, usually having a peculiar glue-likeconsistency.Thishomemadeversion is very easy tomakeandwithgood freshpineapplesavailableallyearroundinoursupermarkets,itisnoproblem.

Putthepeeled,coredpineapplepiecesintoasmallsaucepanwiththesugarsyrupandjustsufficientcoldwatertocover.Bringtosimmeringpointthencoverandboil gently for 15minutes.Remove the pan from the heat and drain the fruit.(Thesyrupisdeliciousasadrinkdilutedwithalittlesparklingwater.)

Liquidisethefruittoapuree.Addthebrandy,kirschorginandmixwell,ifliked.

Serve cold. Use to top off a classicKnickerbocker Glory (page 295) orAmericanParfait(pages71to72).Goodwithanyofthedairyices.

RaspberrySauceThisworksequallywellwithstrawberries.

Rinsetheberriesincoldwater,drybyrollingtheberriesaroundonatraylinedwith kitchen paper. Puree with half the sugar until smooth. Taste and adjustsweetnessifnecessary.Sieve,andaddlemonjuiceifrequired.

RedcurrantJellySauceTorepeatourusualmantra;useagoodqualityredcurrantjelly,thebestwouldbehomemade.

Spoontheredcurrantjellyintoasmall,non-stickpan.Measure250ml/1cup/8flozofwaterthenuseabout2Tbspofthemeasuredwatertoblendwiththepotatoflour inasmallbowl;add theblendand the remainingwater to the redcurrantjelly in the pan.Bring to the boil, stirring frequently and squashing down thejellylumps.Thejellyisreluctanttomelt,butitwill.

Boilgently,uncovered,for5minutes.Removethepanfromtheheatandaddsugarandthecassis.Tasteandincreasethesweetnessifyouprefer.

Servewarmorcold.Thiswillkeep,covered,inthefridgeforupto3days.Usewithfruit-basedicesandonplatesoringlassesbeforeservingicecream.

BlackRum&MintSauceWe have arrived at this title because we used Gosling’s Black Seal BermudaRum.Anygoodfullbodiedrumwilldo.Thisgivesaclear,dark-honey-colouredsaucewithanequalbalanceofeachflavourinit.Apersonalfavourite.

Putthesugarinamedium-sizenon-stickpanandpourin250ml/1cup/8flozwater.

Scrub the lemon in soapywater to remove thewax, rinse anddry.Using apotatopeeler,removetheyellowzestoftheskininstrips.Putthisintothepanwiththesugarandwater.

Bringslowlytotheboilthenadjusttheheattogiveagentleboil,uncoveredfor10minutes.Meanwhile,thoroughlyrinseanddrythemintsprigs.

Remove the pan from the heat and add themint.Cover and leave at roomtemperatureuntilcold.Squeezeandadd4Tbsp/¼cupstrainedlemonjuiceandtherum.Coverandchillinthefridge.Strainbeforeserving.

Excellentwithbasicchocolateicecreamsandgelatosandexoticfruitices.Thestrainedsaucewillkeepinthefridgeforabout1week.

RussianToffeeSauceFor one half of this partnership, Russian toffee means a combination ofchocolateand toffee.Quitewhere this conviction comes fromnoone seems toknowasitisnotrecognisedbyanyauthoritywehaveconsulted.Russian toffee does not appear to have any origins in Russia but the first

mentionwehavefoundisinSkuse’sCompleteConfectioner,13thedition(1957),whereitisdescribedastoffeecoatedinchocolate,whichsoundslikeastandardcaramelchocolate.ButSkusemakesitwithevaporatedmilkand‘RussianToffeeFlavourC2603’aboutwhichweknownothingandtheredoesnotappeartobeanyrecordsofthecompany’sproducts.Atwhichpointweretiredexhausted.Our recipe forRussian toffeehasbeendeveloped so that it doesnot freeze

solidandremainssoftinadomesticfreezer.Thismeansitisusefulinandonicecreams.Ourfeelingwasyouwoulduseitmoreoftenasasauce,henceitsplaceinthischapter.Thisisaperfectbalanceoftoffeeandchocolate.

Aguidelinewhenmakingthissauce:Timeit,becausescarcely1minutecanmeanthedifferencebetweenapouringsauceandalumpofchewytoffee.

Putallthemeasuredingredientsintoapanwithatablespoonofwater.Stiroveralowheat,timingfromtheoutset,untilthesugarhasdissolved;thiswillprobablytakeabout5-6minutes.

Ifyouwanttousethisasasauce,removethepanfromtheheatatthisstageand serve warm, or store the sauce in a covered container in the fridge. Theconsistencycanbemaderunniersimplybyaddingalittlewaterifyouwishtoserveitcold.

Warmthesaucebysittingthecontainerinhotwater.Tomarblethroughicecream(SourCreamIceCreamwithRussianToffee,

page223)cookafurther2minutesbeforeremovingandcooling.Whencoldthisshouldgivea consistency thatdrops lazily from the spoon. If it is too thick itwillneedlessthananadditionaltablespoonofwatertobecomerunnyenough.

Follow the instructions in the sour cream recipe for marbling this mixturethroughanyicecreamofyourchoice.

RosePouchongTeaSyrupOther teas can be used, jasmine, gunpowder, green, all the oolongs andpouchongs;justchooseaflavourthatmarriesbestwiththesorbetoricetobeserved.Forexample,wesuggest:RedBeanIceCreamwithgreenteasyrupandMangoSorbetwithjasmineteasyrup.The trick isnot tooverheat the teaandhave it release its tannin;warming

and prolonged soaking gives the flavour without the bitterness, to produce asaucethatissubtlysharpwithsmokeandflowerovertones.

Pourthesyrupintoasmallsaucepanandaddthetealeaves.Heatjustuntilthesyrupishandhot,thenremovefromtheheat.

Once the syrup has cooled, cover it and chill overnight in the fridge. Thefollowingdaystrain theliquidthroughafinesieveor teastrainer,pressingtheleavesfirmlytoextractthemaximumflavour.Stirinthelemonorlimejuiceandorangeflowerwater.Thesyrupisthenreadytoserve.

NOTE:When using teas other than rose pouchong omit the orange flowerwater.

CaramelSyrupThesaucethatfollowsisinthe‘dispensingsyrup’traditionofthesodafountain.Wedescribehow tomakea caramel syrup that canbe kept indefinitely in thefridge.Youcandip into itatwill;combinesay,80ml/⅓cup/2¾ flozsyrupwith 125ml/ ½ cup/ 4 fl oz heavy cream to make a caramel sauce – or anyconcentrationpreferred,rightdowntousingthesyrupstraight.

Preferably use amedium-sized heavy stainless steel pan. Using a coated pan,withadarkinterior,makesitmoredifficulttoassessthedarkeningofthesugarsyrup.

Add the sugar andwater to the pan and leave alone, over a lowheat for 5minutes.Bythistimethemajorityofthesugarwillhavedissolved.Turnuptheheattobetweenmoderateandhigh.Swirlthecontentsofthepanandtimeforafurther 5minutes.From this point onwatch the pan and do not leave the

stove.Asthesyrupcontinuestodarken,probablyaroundthe5-minutemark,liftand

gently swirl thecontentsof thepan.This reduces theboiling foamandallowsyou to get a better idea of how much the syrup is darkening. As soon as itreachesadeeprunny-honeybrown,removethepanfromtheheatandsititintheemptysink.

WITHGREATCAREaddafurther150ml/½cupplus2Tbsp/5flozwater.The syrupwill erupt, splutter and bubble.Return the pan to the heat. Reheat,swirlingthesyrupmakingsurethatitisevenlydissolved.Coverandleaveasideto cool and thicken. Store in a closed container in the fridge. It keepsindefinitely.

Thishandlesmorereadilyifthecontainersitsinhotwatertoloosenthesyrupbeforeusing.

StrongCoffeeSyrupTobehonest this isabitofaneffort tomakebecause thesyruphasa longishboilingtimeduringwhichyouneedtobearoundtokeepaneyeonit.Butoncemadeitkeepsalmost indefinitely in the fridge. Itresemblesmolasses incolourandconsistencyandhasastrongcoffeeflavour,farbetterthananythingyoucanbuy,anditisnottoosweet.Usesparinglyinfloatsandsundaes,inthindrizzlesacrossplatesandoverices.Goeswithchocolate,pear,banana,nutandanyofthebasiccreamices.

Selectasolid,deeppan,20cm/8inchdiameter.Measuretheingredientsintothepanandbringtotheboiloveramoderateheat,stirring.Assoonasthemixturecomes to the boil adjust the heat to low, so themixture boils gently. Insert asugarthermometerifyouhaveoneandleavethemixturetoboilslowlyforabout35minutes.Keepaveryclosewatchonthepanduringthistime,stirringthemixcarefully, slowly and frequently. If themixture boils up to the rim of the panimmediatelyliftthepanabovetheheatandthemixturewillsubside;donotstir

itatthisstageasitcanmakethesyrupboilupmorevigorously.Ifusingadigitalprobe thermometer take a temperature reading regularly after 30minutes untilthetemperatureofthesyrupis108-110°C,about226-230°F.

Have ready a fine-metal sieve positioned over a heat-proof jug. Pour thecontentsofthepanintothesieveandleavetodrainforabout5minutes.Discardthecontentsofthesieveandremovethescumfromthesurfaceofthesyrupthentransfer to a lidded container and label.When cold store in the fridge.Keepsalmostindefinitely.

Herb-InfusedSyrupsThis ideawas born as a result of trying to get a clear syrup that delivered agood,fresh,herbflavour,becausequiteafewofthebasicherbsandspicesmeetand match the flavours of ice creams in this book. Aiming for the simplestmethodwehitontheideaofusingKarolightcornsyrup.Thisclear,transparentsyrupisanAmericanstaplefordessertslikepecanpieandwhileitisnotexactlyreadilyavailableoutside theUSA it isworthpursuing in specialist foodshops(seeUsefulAddressespage324).Whatitdoesisgiveathickenoughconsistencyfor a sauce without being too sweet.We found that the addition of unrefinedsugar helped the flavour and gave an additional thickness to the saucewhichwasneededwhentheherbandlimejuiceswereadded;awholeseriesofchecksandbalances,infact.Fearnot,itisverysimpletomake.Thepale-amber-tintedsyrupkeepsinthescrew-topjarinthefridgealmostindefinitely.Servesparinglybecausetheyarequitestronglyflavoured.Trythemintorrosemaryflavourswithall manner of chocolate ices or any of the plain dairy ices such as yoghurt,goat’smilk, crème fraîche, buttermilk, ricotta etc. Either syrup is surprisinglygoodwithanicelikeRose’sLimeMarmaladeforexample,orfruiticessuchasstrawberry,gooseberryandrhubarb.Thesesyrupsworkwithmanytypesoficecreams.

Mint-FlavouredSyrup

Measure thecorn syrup intoamicrowaveablemeasuring jug.Stir in the sugarandcoverwithclingfilm.Punchsomeholesinthefilmthenmicrowaveat900Wfor 1minute.Remove the jug, uncover and stir, then re-cover andmicrowaveagainforafurther1to1½minutes.Removethejugatthefirstsignoftheliquidboiling. Uncover and gradually add the mint, rubbing the leaves between thepalmsof thehandsand letting themdrop into the liquidsyrup.Stir, coverandleaveasidefor15minutes.

Strainthesyrupthroughafinesieve,thenpickupandsqueezetheremainingleaveshard inyourhand to extract asmuch flavour aspossible.Add the limejuice, cover and refrigerate overnight. This enables the syrup to reach itsmaximumthickness.Itwillformaskinbutthisstirsbackintothesyrupwithnoproblem.Oncecold,stirthesyrupgentlyoryouwillgenerateairbubbleswhichcan detract from the appearance if you are aiming at a restaurant-standardpresentation.

VARIATIONS: Rosemary. Instead of mint substitute 30 g/ 1 oz/ 1 ozrosemary,leavesonly,washedanddried.

Lavender. Instead of mint, substitute 30 g/ 1 oz / 1 oz lavender flowers,washedanddried.

NOTE:The‘drier’varietiesofherbsworkbest;themorelushherbscanmakethesyrupatadtooliquid.Ifyouwanttoexperiment,spiceslikecardamom,staraniseandcinnamonworkwell also.Combinewith the syrupandsugarbeforemicrowaving.

CandiedOrangeZestwithSyrupThechef’sversionofthisisto‘pare’theorangeskin,sliceintohair-likestrips,blanch,andthenboilupseveraltimesinevermoreconcentratedsyrup.Lengthybusiness,sowehaveby-passedsomeofit.Whatyoucannotdowithoutisagoodlemonzester.

Theresultisamassoforangestripsinanorange-flavouredsyrup.Thestripsalonecanbedrainedandteasedouttouseasdecorationonicesorplatesandthesyruponly,usedinsmallpuddlesonplates.Ingeneral,usesparingly.Thiswillkeepalmostindefinitelyinaplasticboxinthefridge.

Puttheorangesinabowlofhotwaterwithasquirtofwashing-upliquid.Leaveforafewmomentsandthenrubwithacleanclothtoremoveallthewaxfromtheorangeskin.Rinsewell,drainanddry.(Ifalltheprotectivewax/oilsarenotremoveditformsadarkscumonthesurfaceofthesyrup.Ifthishappens,skimoffwithaspoon.)

Useasmallpan(18cm/7inch)andpourin375ml/1½cups/12flozofcoldwater.Nowworkingwithacitruszesteroverthepan,removethezestfromtheorangesworkinginlongsweepsfromthetoptothebaseofthefruit.

Bring thepan to theboil, thencoverandsimmer for15minutes.Strain thestripsdiscardingthewater.

Pour the syrup into thepan andadd theorangezest.Bring to theboil thenadjusttheheatsothesyrupbubbles,withoutboilingover,timefor15minutes.Remove the pan from heat and allow to cool. Store syrup and strips in acontainerinthefridge.

Wafers,Cones,Biscuits,Toffee,Taffy&Brittles

‘Idon’tmakegoodicecreamforyoutogosmotheritinJimmies*’DICKWARREN,OWNERSOUTHSEASICECREAM,

CENTERVILLE.MAINE.USA.(*hundredsandthousands)

Our viewsare completely in linewith our late friendDickWarren,who sadlydied in 2009; the ice should be the star.We see noneed to addanything thatdoesn’tpositivelycomplementtheice.

Ice-CreamWafersThisrecipemakesaplain,verythin,light,crispbiscuit,suitabletoaccompanyallmannerofsweetices.Whenoven-bakedtheycanbecurledinthemanneroftuiles,butthesebiscuitsarenotquitemalleableenoughtotakekindlytoshapingintocigarettes.However,shouldyoubecometheproudpossessorofanelectricice-cream cone (or pizelle)maker (very similar to an electricwaffle iron, seepage 52) we think you will find our recipe preferable to any supplied by themanufacturersofthesemachines.

ToovenbakePreheat the oven to 190°C/375°F/GasMark 5. Use non-stick baking trays, otherwise line with siliconebakingpapergreasedsparinglywithtastelessoil.

Topreparethemix,sifttheicingsugarintoabowl,andthenuseyourhandstorubinthebutter.Oncenofreesugarremains,youcanuseahandbeateroranelectric beater to beat the mix until it becomes paler in colour and lighter intexture.Nowaddtheeggwhitesalittleatatime,beatinguntilsmoothbetweeneachaddition.Finally, combine the flour andcornflour, sift into thebowl, andthenfoldinuntilthemixtureissmooth.

Useapaletteknifetospreadthemixthinlyinto10cm/4inchcirclesonthe(prepared)bakingtrays.

NOTE:Thismixturedoesnotspreadmuchduringbaking.Thebiscuitscanbeleftplain,orsprinkledwithsesameorpoppyseedsbeforebaking,ifliked.Bakein the centre of the oven for 6-8minutes.Remove immediately from the trayusingapaletteknifeandeithercurl(seedirectionsforformingtuilesopposite)orleavetocoollyingflatonawirerack.Touseanelectriccone-makerLeavethemachinetoheatuntilitreachesthecorrecttemperature.Itmightbenecessarytolightlyoilthecookingsurfacesbeforethefirstwafer isbakedbutnot thereafter.Put1Tbspofmixinthecentreof thebaseplate,bringdownthetoplidandusethecliptoclampthebaseandtophandlesfirmlyshut.Ifalittletoomuchmixhasbeenused,someofitwillquicklyflowoutaroundtheedge,butbythesecondorthirdattemptyouwillbeable togaugealmostexactly theamountrequired just tocover thebaseplateandnomore.Cookuntiluniformlygoldenbrown,usuallyabout90seconds.Youcan lift the lid to seehow thecookingisprogressing–itwillnotbreakthewafer.

Assoonasitissufficientlybrownedremovethewaferandwithacleanclothtoprotectyourhands,formit intoacone.Youcandothis‘free-hand’ormorereadily using a wooden cone-shaped form (see Useful Addresses page 324).Make sure the wafer cone is sufficiently cooled and firm enough to hold its

shapebeforeleavingtocoolonawirerack.Eatthesameday.NOTE:Onceyouknowtheexactquantityofmixthemachinewilltake,itis

possible to obtain a sesame or poppy seed-edged cone by sprinkling theperimeter of the base platewith seeds, then spooning themix into the centre;cookandrollinthesameway.

AlmondWaferBiscuitsThisrecipeproducesaverycrisp,thinbiscuit(orcookie)withasubtlealmondtextureand flavour–nothing like thewafersassociatedwith commercial ices.Wedecidedtomakeitourbasicwaferbiscuit–asmanyicescombinebeautifullywiththisflavour.Itcanbemadeintofourshapes;twotoaccompanyicecream,andtwotocontainit.Whichevershapeyouoptfor,aflexiblepaletteknifeandanabundantsupplyofnon-sticksiliconepaperareamust.Thenyouneedtoclosethekitchendoorandconcentrate,becausethistypeof

biscuit needs precision, speed and accuracy, starting with the biscuit mix.Measurethisasaccuratelyaspossiblebecauseateaspoonfulhereortherecanmakethedifferencebetweensuccessandfailure.Onceyougetaccustomedtotheway themixbakes inyouroven(accurate timingwillgiveaconsistentresult),the next critical point is gauging the cooling and degree of flexibility of thebiscuits. Don’t panic and rush to remove the biscuit from the baking tray theinstantitcomesoutoftheoven.Holdonfor30secondsorso(exactlyhowlongdependsonthethicknessofyourbakingtrayandthereforehowmuchitretainsthe heat), then quickly roll, press or drape the biscuits into the shape of yourchoice.Ifitistoohot,thebiscuitwillbeveryfragileandteareasily.Ifitgetstoocool,itwillbecometoocrisporbrittletoroll.Onelastpoint;theshapedbiscuitstakeasurprisingtimetobecomecrispafterbaking;theyneedtimetocool,andthen some, before they are fully crisp. Stored in an airtight container at thisstage,theywillkeepforupto1week.

Positiontheovenshelfcentrallyandpreheatto220°C/425°F/GasMark7.Line2bakingtrayswithnon-sticksiliconepaperandgreasethepaperwitha

solidpieceofbutter.(Meltedbutterwillnotcoatthistypeofpaperasevenlyassolid butter does, and treated in this way the biscuits lift off in the cleanestpossibleway.)

Meltthe3Tbspofbutterinasmallsaucepanandleavetocool.Sifttogetherthe flour and cornflour and combine with the ground almonds and almondextract.IfusingafoodprocessorCombinetheeggwhitesandsugarinthebowlandprocessforabout10seconds.Addthecombinedflour,cornflour,groundalmondsandthealmondextract.Replacethelid,setthemachineinmotionandpourinthecooledbutterinathinstreamviathefunnel.Stopandscrapedownthebaseandsidesofthebowl;addthealmondextract,blendbrieflyoncemore,thenthemixisreadytouse.

IfmakingbyhandWhisktheeggwhitesuntil theyformsoftpeaksthengraduallywhiskin thesugar.Nowfold inalternateamountsofthecombinedflour,cornflour,groundalmondsandthealmondextract,thenthecooledbutter,inabout 3 steps until all have been incorporated into a smoothmix. Lastly stir in a few drops of almondextract,andthemixisreadytouse.

CIGARETTES(BACK)ALMONDTUILES(FRONT)

TOSERVEWITHICECREAM

AlmondTuilesThese curvedwafer biscuits are formed by bending hot almondwafer biscuitsaround thecurveofarollingpin,giving thecharacteristicshapeofProvençalrooftiles,hencethename.Havearollingpinready(thethinnertypeisbetterforthesebiscuits; itdoesnotneedgreasing)andabout4Tbspof flakedalmonds.Allowingabout3biscuitspertray,dropscantdessertspoonsofmix,spacedwellapart, on to the prepared trays.Use a palette knife or the back of a spoon tospread out the batter evenly and very thinly into rounds about 9-10 cm/3½-4inchesindiameter.Sprinklewiththeflakedalmondsthenbakefor5-7minutes.When ready the biscuits will have a clearly defined, golden-brown outer rim

whilethecentreremainsaverypaleyellow.Removefromtheovenandallowtocoolforafewseconds.(Here,ifyoumove

quickly,thesecondtraycanbeputintotheoventobakeandatimerset.)Now,using thepalette knife,quickly remove thebiscuits from the tray to the rollingpin,keeping themnutsideup. Ifyouprotectyourhandwithacleancloth, thebiscuitscanbegentlysqueezedtotheshapeoftherollingpin.Leavetocoolforafewminutesthentransfertoawireracksoyouarereadyforthenextbatch.Preparethethirdbatchofbiscuits forbakinginexactlythesamewaybutgivethebakingtraytimetocoolbeforeliningwithpaper,greasingandspreadingthebatter.

CigarettesMake the biscuits as for the tuiles, but omit sprinkling with flaked almondsbeforebaking.Onremovalfromtheovenrollthemintothincylindersaroundthehandleofawoodenspoon.Leavetosetfor1-2minutesbeforewithdrawingthespoonhandle.Transferthebiscuitstoawirerackuntilcrisp.

TOCONTAINICECREAM

CornetsorConesMake the biscuits as for tuiles, omitting the flaked almonds and using a littlemoremix;spreadthemixout torounds14-15cm/5½-6inches indiameter.Onremovalfromtheovenformintoconeshapes.Itisjustpossibletodothis‘free-hand’ but it is much easier to roll them around a wooden form (see UsefulAddressespage324).

NOTE: Sadly, cream-horn moulds produce a cone too small for mostpurposes.Youshouldaimtoproduceaconethathasatopdiametercomparabletothatoftheaverageice-creamscoop,about5cm/2inches.

TulipesMakethebiscuitasforthecornets,spreadingthemixoutincirclesofabout15cm/6 inchesbeforebaking.Havereadyanupturnedglasswithabaseabout5cm/2 inches in diameter. On removal from the oven, place the hot biscuit

centrally on the glass; then,with your handsprotectedwith a cloth, press thebiscuit gently down the sides of the glass to form a frilled-edge, cup-likecontainer.Somerecipesmaysuggestformingtulipesoveranorangebutaglassgives a flatter base and therefore a more stable container when served on aplate.

BrandySnapsAsuccessfulbiscuit toservewith ices.Although theusualcylindricalshapeofBrandySnapsisnotparticularlyappropriatetoservewithices, if leftasaflatbiscuit, or curved in the manner of tuiles (see recipe on previous page), orformed into cornets or tulipes to contain ice cream, the brandy snap recipeworkswell.Thegingerflavourisnotobtrusive,andworksparticularlywellwithicessuchaspearormelon,orthegingercanbeleftout,ifyouprefer.Please read the introduction to the recipe forAlmondWafer Biscuits as

thoseguidelinesalsoapplytothemakingandbakingofBrandySnaps.

Positiontheovenshelfcentrallyandpreheattheovento160°C/325°F/GasMark3.Line2bakingtraysasdirectedforAlmondWaferBiscuits(seepage278).

In a heavy saucepan combine the syrup, sugar and butter and heat gently,stirring, until the butter hasmelted and the sugar dissolved.Remove from theheatandleavetocoolslightlybeforesiftingintheflour,thegingerorlemonrindandthelemonjuiceorbrandy.

Dropteaspoonsofmixtureontothepreparedbakingsheets,spacingthematleast7.5 cm/3 inches apart.Bake for about8minutesoruntil themixturehas

spread out to a very thin, brown, bubbly-topped disc, slightly darker brownaround theedge.Remove from theoven, and leave tocool for a fewseconds.Have a palette knife to hand, then as soon as the biscuits are firm enough toremove from the traywithout damage, but still very flexible, proceed to formthemintotheshapeofyourchoice.

NOTE:Theremaininguncookedmixwillgetfirmerasitgetscolder.Indeed,itgets to the stagewhere themixcanbe formed into smallballsbyhandandpattedontothebakingtray.Thesewillspreadthinlywiththeheatoftheovenandtheresultingbiscuitswillbeexactlythesameasthefirst.

CORNETSORCONES(BACK)TULIPES(FRONT)

FlatBrandySnapsThesecanbeusedtodecorateoraccompanycoupesoficecreamandcanbeassmallorlargeasyouwish;simplyadjust theamountofmixtogivethesizeofbiscuityouchooseand,oncebaked,transfertoawireracktocool.

CurvedBrandySnapsFollowthedirectionsgivenforformingAlmondTuiles(seepage279).

CornetsandTulipesFollowtheinstructionsgivenunderAlmondWaferBiscuits(seepage278).NOTE: We do not recommend shaping this mix into cigarettes as this

producesabiscuitthatishardtobite.

AllspiceBiscuitsThisbiscuitrecipewasahappydiscoverysomeyearsagoinNathalieHambro’sbookParticularDelights;wehavebeenchurningthemouteversince.Theyarethin-nish,black,verycrisp,spicedbiscuits,lightyearsawayfromanythingyouwillfindinapacket.Theallspice,cocoa-pepperinessgoeswellwithchocolate,nut(particularlywalnut)andcoffeeices.

Sifttogetherthefirst6ingredientsandsetaside.Inalargemixingbowl,beatthe

butter,sugarandvanillaextractuntilpaleandlight.Whisktheeggbrieflythenaddinstagestothebuttermixbeatingwellbetweeneachaddition.Foldinthesieveddry ingredients, stirring just sufficiently to formadough.Have readyasheetofsiliconepapermeasuring40×20cm/16×8inches.

Shapethedoughintoanevensausage,about30cm/12inchesinlength,androllupinthepaper.Slideontoabakingtraytopreventitdistortingorbreaking,thentransfertothefridgetochilluntilfirm;about3hours.

Whenready,preheat theoven to190°C/375°F/GasMark5.Useeithernon-stickbaking traysor linewithsiliconepaper;moistenapieceofkitchenpaperwithtastelessoilandwipeoverbothtrayorpaper.Useasharpknifetocutthedoughinto5mm/¼inchthickslices.Arrangealittleapartonthebakingtraystoallowforsomeexpansionduringbaking.

Bakefor10-12minutes,changingthetraysaroundintheovenhalfwayifthebiscuitsseemtobebakingunevenly.Thebiscuitsaredonewhentheyresisttheimprint of a finger. Be careful not to overbake them; because they are nearlyblack,youneed to lookat themcarefully todetect signsofoverbaking.Useaspatulatotransferthebiscuitstoawireracktocool.

HoneycombToffee/TaffyThis is delicious. Also known as cinder toffee, it is like the filling of a Fry’sCrunchie®bar.Thetoffeealone,i.e.notcoveredinchocolate,canbeboughtinplastic bags in ‘seaside sweetie shops’ or can be purchased usually alongsidecandy floss on Britain’s few remaining piers. Why this should be a seasidefeaturewedonotknow.Howeverthequalityisvariablewithsometoffeeshavinga good caramel flavour, others aremerely sweet, somaking it yourself is thesafestbet.Therecipedoeslookabitfrighteningbutpleasetryit.Weguaranteeyouwill

make it again and again. The toffee adds wonderful texture and flavourscrunchedovermanyoftheicecreamsinthisbook.NOTE: Best to have children well away whilst making the toffee. When

addingthebicarbonateofsodathetoffeebillowsupinstantly.Beverycareful.

Youwillneeda23cm/9inchapproxheavypanandaheatproofmeasuringjugfilledwith hotwater. Put a sugar thermometer or a digital probe thermometerreadyinthewaterandhaveaheatproofpastrybrushtohand.

Selectashallowtin35×25cm/14×10inches.(Roastingtinsareoftenthebestinthissizerange.)Wipethetininsidewithapadofkitchenpapermoistenedwithoil.

Measure all the ingredients except thebicarbonateof soda into a saucepan.Put thepanover the lowestheat for10minutesand leave italone.Meanwhilehavethejugofhotwater,thermometerandpastrybrushreadybythepan.

Nowgentlystirthesyrupavoidingwashingitupthesidesofthepan.Usethebrushdippedinhotwatertowashdownthesidesofthepanjustabovethesyruplevel.

Once the sugar syruphas completelydissolved turnup theheat tobetweenmediumandhigh.Leavethesyrupboilingfor5minutes.Putinthethermometerandleaveituntilitregisters69°C/156°F.

Now move quickly – remove the pan from the heat, sprinkle in thebicarbonateofsodathenwhiskbrieflytodisperseitthroughouttheliquid,about6 turns. Immediately pour the billowing, frothing mass into the prepared tin.Leaveuntilcold.

Turn thecoldset toffeeoutontoasheetofsiliconepaper,and tapwithoneendofarollingpintobreakintomouth-sizedpieces.Transfertoaplasticbag,squeezeout all the air and seal firmlywith a clip or tie tag.Store in a liddedcontainer until ready touse. If the toffee is left exposed to air formuchmorethan 10 minutes it will become sticky and soft. Tightly sealed it will keep

happilyformonthsatatime.Havingmadethisonceortwiceyoucanmanagewithoutalltheparaphernalia

of thermometer andwashing down the sides of the pan, but play safe andgetusedtothestrictlyorthodoxwayfirst.

TheMotherofallMeringuesThisistherestaurantapproachtomeringues.Weareassumingthatyouhaveanexcessof eggwhitesand thatpipingand scoopingoutmeringue shapes couldnotbefurtherfromyourmind.Whilstthereisnothingtostopyoudoingthatwiththisrecipe,trythisapproachforspeedofproduction.Justspreadthemeringueouttocoverabakingtray.Thebakedmeringuecanthenbecrumbledorbrokenatwill,asorwhenitisrequired,toservewith,on,oraround,icecream.

Towhiskthisamountofeggwhitesastrong,standmixerisneeded,fittedwithawhiskattachment.Asturdyelectrichandwhiskwilljustaboutdo,butkeepitonthemove,workingconstantlythroughallpartsofthemix.

Line a baking sheet, basemeasurement 36×29 cm×3mm14× 11×¼incheswithbakingparchmenttorise2.5cm1inchabovetheedgesofthebakingsheet.Thisthicknesswillbaketoacrispmeringue.Ifacrispexteriorandasoftinterior ispreferred, linea roasting tin, top insidemeasurementabout30×25cm/12×10incheswithparchment.

Moistenawadofkitchenpaperwithcookingoilandwipe thisallover theparchmentasanadditionalinsurancesothatthemeringuefloatsoffthepaper.

Choose a large, grease-free mixing bowl. Add the egg whites and startwhisking at high speed.Continue until the eggwhites are just stiff enough toholdapeak.Graduallyaddthecastersugaraspoonfulata time.Whenallhasbeen addeddetach thewhisk and sift in the icing sugar in about fourbatches,usingthewhiskasahandimplementtofoldtheicingsugarintothemeringue.

Spreadthemeringueevenlyinthebakingsheet/roastingtinandsprinklewith

almonds,ifliked.Transfertotheovenandsetthetemperatureat120°C/250°F/Gas½.Thethinnermeringuewilltake2hours,thethickerone3hours.Usetheedge

oftheparchmenttoliftthemeringuejustsufficientlytofeelthatitisabsolutelyfirminthecentrebeforeremovingitfromtheoven.Usingtheparchment,liftthemeringue onto a wire rack to cool. The parchment can be left in place forstorage.

ItalianMeringueIn the restaurant business chefs have moved away from the Swiss-stylemeringue;whiskinginhalf thesugarandfoldinginthebalance,nowtheyboilupasugarsyrupandimmediatelywhiskthisslowlyintotheeggwhites,whilstamachine continues whisking at top speed. The boiling syrup cooks/coagulatestheeggwhitesastheairisbeateninthustrappingtheairinafirmframeworkfromwhich it cannot escape. Thismakes an Italianmeringue foolproof,moreforgiving,moreadaptableandmoresuitabletotoday’stastesasitismadewithsometimesaslittleashalfthesugar.Itisevenpossibletomakeabatch,freezeitanduseit(SeeBakedAlaska,page83).Theonlydrawback tomakingItalianmeringueisyouwillneedasugarthermometerandastandmixerfittedwithaballoonwhisk.

Have the eggwhites ready in the bowl of a standmixer fittedwith a balloonwhisk.Combinethesugarandwaterinasmallpanandcookoveralowheatuntilthesugarhasdissolved.Turntheheatupalittleandleavethesyruptoboiluntilitreachesanythingfrom118-124°C/245-255°F.

Immediately set themixer tomaximumand start pouring in the syrup in aslow,steadystreamdowntheinsideofthebowl.Leavethemachinetowhiskforabout10minutes.Bythisstagethemixerbowlwillfeelbarelywarmandifyoustickafinger in themix,pull itstraightoutandpoint that fingerskywards themeringuewill,withnoproblem,holdalong,thinneedle-pointculminatinginahookatthetop.That’sit;itisreadytogo.Youcanuseitforanysortofmousse,souffléorpietopping.Itcanbestoredinaplasticliddedcontainerinthefreezerandbereadytouse,directlyfromthefreezer.

AlmondCrumbleAgood,back-droptypeofflavourthatgoeswithmanyices.Weprefertobuythewholealmondswiththeirskinsonandgrindthemdowntoafinemealinafoodprocessor, then they seem tohavea littlemore flavour,andbeingnotquiteasfinelygroundasshop-boughtgroundalmonds theygive thecrumblemoreofacrunch.After baking and cooling the crumblemix can be bagged, sealed andstoredinthefreezerforupto6months.Itcanbeusedin,aboveorbelowanice,i.e.stirredintoanicecreamafterchurningandimmediatelybeforefreezing,asalightscatteringonaplatebeforetoppingwithices,orsprinkledoverthetop.

Putthealmondsintoafoodprocessorandpulseuntilthenutsarereducedtoafinemeal.Addtheremainingingredientsandpulseuntilthemixtureresemblesbreadcrumbs. (Ifworkingbyhand,buygroundalmondsandcombinewith theother ingredients in abowl.Rub in thebutteruntil themixture resembles finebreadcrumbs.)

Spread the mixture on a baking tray lined with lightly oiled greaseproofpaper,andputintothefridge.

Settheovento160°C/320°F/GasMark3.Whentheovenisuptoheatplacethe baking tray in the oven and bake for 20minutes or until the crumble hastakenonapalebiscuitcolour.Removeandleavetocool.Crumblebetweenthefingersanduseasrequired.

NutandSeedPralines/BrittlesIf youever tastehome-madeandcommercialpeanutand sesameseedbrittles,sidebyside,itisquitestartlingtofindhowmuchbetterthehome-madeproductis.Carameliscomparativelysimpletomakebutyoumusttakegreatcarewhen

makingit,bearinginmindthat itreachesthesamesortof temperaturesasoildoeswhendeep-frying.Also,thesugarcaramelises(darkens)rapidly,sodonotleavethepanonceyouhavestartedtoheatthesugar,butgiveityourundividedattentionfromstarttofinish.

Select a good, solid baking tray and wipe over with a pad of kitchen papermoistenedwithtastelessoil.

Have the nuts or seeds of your choice ready, toasted and stillwarm in theoven;thisstopsthemclumpingtogetherwhentheyarestirredintothecaramel.

Put the sugar intoa14-15cm/5-6 inchsaucepan.Cookoveraheat slightlylessthanmoderate,leavingthesugarundisturbeduntilthereisaclearlyvisibleedge of liquefied sugar just beginning to tinge brown.Now stir slowly as thesugarliquefiesandcolours.Assoonasthesyrupisclearandhoneycolour,stirinthewarmednutsandcontinuetostiruntilthecolourisadeepgoldenbrownsimilartothedarkercolourofsomehoneys.Takegreatcare,immediatelypourthemixtureontothebakingtray;thelargenutsmightneedspreadingoutalittle.Leavethemixturetocoolandharden.

Wefinditbesttobreakthemadepralineorbrittleintoroughpiecesthenstoretheminascrew-topjarinthefridge.Thepiecescanthenbecrushedtowhateversize is preferred for a particular purpose. It will keep for several weeks in afridge,reallyuntilitissticky,butcanbefrozenforaboutayear–onlybecarefultoavoidanymoisturecomingintodirectcontactwiththemixtureasitwillstarttodissolve.

Tocrushthesugar/nutmixwepreferusinganold-fashionedpestleandmortarasitgivesyoumostcontroloverthedegreeoffineness.Usingafoodprocessorworksreasonablywellifyouwantafinepowder,butbewareofover-processingoryoumightendupwithastickypaste.

NOTE:Cleanthepanbysoakinginwater.

SugarGlassThis certainly has aWOW factor. The process below produces thin sheets oftransparent,marbledmeltedsugar.Whenthesearebrokenintopieces,shardsor

largetriangular‘wings’andstuckintoicecreamsjustbeforeservingtheeffectisspectacular.Andbesides;therearefewflavoursindessertsbetterthancaramelisedsugar.NOTE:Itisunwisetotrythisforthefirsttime,justbeforeadinnerparty.Do

a trial run first.Alsobestnot todo itwhen theweather iswet. Seriously; thecarameltendstogettoosticky,tooquicklyaftermaking.Itisbesttoworkwithaneyelevelgrill/broiler.Somepeoplehavegrills/broilersinthetopofafloor-basedoven,orbelowtheoveninaseparatecompartment.Unlessyouareyoungand limber do not attempt this. Much better to go out and buy a workablegrill/broiler.FoilTastelessoilUnrefinedbrownsugarWhitegranulatedsugar

Preheatthegrilltoitshighestsetting.Youwillneedadoublethicknessoffoilslightlylargerthantheareacovered

bytheheatingelementofthegrill.Liberallymoistenapadofkitchenpaperwiththeoilandwipeitoverthesurfaceofthefoil.Nowfolduptheedgesabout1.5cm/½inchtocreatesomethingresemblingashallowbakingtray.

Setthegrillpanontherungclosesttotheheat.Returntothefoil‘tray’,slidingitontoasolidbakingsheetthatissufficiently

thicktonotwarpwhenheated.Makesurethefoil‘tray’sitsflatandunbending–nokinksorrucks;thesugarwillcatchintheseareas.

Sprinklingthesugarbetweenyourfingers,putabandofwhitesugarabout5cm/2incheswidearoundtheedge,sufficientsugartocoverthefoil,thenfillinthecentreinthesamewaywiththebrownsugar,sufficienttocoverthefoil.

Positionthefoiltray,onthebakingsheet,acrossthegrillpan,underthegrill.Bypositioning thebakingsheet in thisway itenablesyou tomove thebakingsheetaroundeasily.

MAKESURETHATTHEFOILDOESNOTTOUCHTHEELEMENTIF

YOUAREUSINGANELECTRICGRILL.Over thenext 4minutes the sugarwillmelt to a ‘glass’ sheet. Patcheswill

darkenmorethanothers.Ifyourgrillheatisuneven,andalotofdomesticgrillsare, slide the tray around to a better position under the source of heat.Whensomeareashavebecomedarkbrown,removefromtheheat.Theremaystillbesomeareasofrawsugar;thisdoesnotmatterajot.Itwilllookbeautiful.Cool.Usewithinthehour.

Topeel off the foil, set the foil trayon a flatwork surface next to a right-angled edge. Pull the foil directly downwards against the edge so the caramelworksitswayforwardofftheedgeparallelwiththeworksurface.

Breakoffpiecesas they threaten to respond togravity.Best tospike it intocream/ice cream immediately, because if the caramel is laid down flat on, forexample,cookingoiledparchmentitisawkwardtopickup.

GlossaryÀlamodeFrenchexpressionthathasbeenadoptedinAmericawhereitisusedtoindicatethatadessertisservedwithicecream.

AffogatoItalian:Todrown.Icecreamoverwhichhotespressocoffeeispoured,usuallyservedinacupandsauceroraglass,withaspoon.

Age/AgeingAnexpressionusedintheice-creamindustrytorefertothelengthoftimethepasteurisedmixis held chilled before churning. The smoothness of body and texture, resistance tomelting and ease ofwhipping are improved by ageing. This process takes not more than four hours. Note: It is thepasteurisation of themademix that effectively destroys all pathogens and bacteria and enables the safestorage of themix (ageing) before churning. It is inadvisable to store the completemixwith the creamadded,evenunderrefrigeratedconditions.Tokeepbacterialactiontoaminimum,youarestronglyadvisedtocoolthemixturequickly(byplungingthebaseofthepanincold/icedwater)thencoverandrefrigerate.Unlesspasteurisedyoushouldnotaddthechilledcreamuntiljustpriortofreezing/churning.

Akutaq Eskimo ice cream originally made from animal fats such as seal oil, reindeer and caribou fat,sweetenedandflavouredwithberriesandfruits.Modernversionsusebeeftallow,vegetablefatsandbutter.

Aufait A French term used in America, and common in the early 20th century, to describe a brick ormouldedicetowhichoneormorethinlayersoffruit(preservedorcandied)havebeenadded.

BananaSplitTypicalAmericansodafountaindishconsistingofabananasplitlengthwisewith3scoopsofassorted flavours of ice cream in between.Toppedwithwhipped cream, nuts and cherries. See diagrampage302andhistorypage28.

BatchfreezersSmallice-creammachineswithanintegralfreezingunitcapableofmakingasinglebatchoficecreamuptoabout20litres.Foragreateroutputmostsmallmanufacturersusecontinuousfreezers,butadiscerningfewsticktorunningagreaternumberofbatchfreezers,which,althoughmorelabourintensive,produceabetterqualityoficecreamwithmorecharacter.

BiscuiticesFrench:BisquitGlacés.BiscuiticesfirstappearedinMenonin1750.Itissimplyanicedcreamwiththeadditionofbiscuitcrumbs,suchasmacaroonsorSavoybiscuitsorbreadcrumbs.Thisgivesbothapositiveflavourandaninterestingtexture.

Gilliers, 1751, mentions almond biscuit and Emy, 1768, mentions almondmacaroon,macaroon,ratafiasandryebreadices,surelytheforerunnerofBrownBreadIceCreamwhichisincorrectlyregardedasaVictorianinnovation.MarySmith,1772,mentionsbrownbreadicecream.In1789FrederickNuttmentionsbiscuit icescontainingNaplesandratafiasbiscuits.Afurtherreferenceappears

in the anonymous IlConfetturierePiemontese 1790 lists Sorbetto di bifcottini(biscottini).

Biscuit ices have fallen out of favour but we hope this book will help torevivethesedelicioushistoricices.SeeBiscuitTortonipage100.BleedingTermappliedtothesettlingorseparationofthesugarsyruptothebottomofafrozencontainerofsorbet,parfaitorsherbet.Theproblemiscausedbyanycombinationofthefollowing:-excessiveoverrun,toomuchsugarorinsufficientstabiliser.

BodyThebodyofaniceistheresultofthecombinationofdifferingproportionsinrelationtooneanother,themannerinwhichtheyarecombinedandthewaytheyarechurnedandfrozen.People’sperceptionoftheidealbodyinanicecreamvariesconsiderably.Amanufacturerwouldlookforbothanacceptablefirmness,densitywheneaten,and,onleavingatroomtemperature,anacceptablerateofmelt that leavesasmoothliquidsimilarinappearancetoasweetcreamofabout40%fatcontent.

BrainfreezeoricecreamheadacheThesharppainusuallyabovethetopofthenoseand/ortheforeheadsometimesexperiencedwhileeatinganice.

Thisisanexampleofreferredpain.Thepainisfeltsomewhereotherthantheplacewherethecauselies.Withinafewsecondsoftheicebeingeatenasharppainisfeltintheforehead,itlastsusuallyforabout10to20secondsbutcanlastuptoaminute.

The body’s response to the cold is to reduce blood supply to the area(vascoconstriction)tominimizeheatlossbyreducingthediameterofthebloodvessels.After vascoconstriction the blood vessels return to their normal statusandthearterysizeresultsinnotabledilationofthearteriesthatsupplythepalate.

Itcanberelieved,sometimes,byoneofthefollowingthreeremedies.

1. Moveyourtongueontheroofofyourmouth.2. Cupyourhandsoveryournoseandmouthandbreatherapidlyasthiswill

raisethetemperatureofthemouthquitequickly.3. Drinkaglassofwateratroomtemperatureorslightlywarm.4. Eattheicesinsmallerquantitiesataslowerpace!

If you are still interested go to:www.bmj.bmjjournals.com/cgi/content/full/314/7091/1364

Itmaywelltakeyoutherestofthedaytoreadallthecorrespondence!Carageenen/carageen(E407)Carageenenisastabiliserextractedfromseaweed(Irishmoss,atraditionalsettingagentthatusedtobeusedinjellies)thatisusedinsomecommercialicecreams.

CassatagelataallaSicilianaThisisatraditionalSiciliandessertservedatEasterandforweddings.Madein a hemisphericalmould (Arabic, quasat) linedwith pan de Spagna (a richMadeira cake) and green-colouredmarzipan,thecentrecontainingamixtureofsweetenedricotta,flavouredwithcrystallisedfruitsandchocolate. Inshort,a formoffestivecheesecake.CassatagelataallaSiciliana isa frozeneditionofCassata Siciliana.The classic recipewas agreed at theNationalCongress inVenice in 1963.Made in astampodaspumone,aspecialdomedmouldwithalid,itislinedfirstwithvanillaicecream,thenpistachio

icecream,thenalayerofpandeSpagnasoakedinrum.Thisisfilledwithawhippedeggwhiteandcreammixturetowhichhavebeenaddedcandiedfruits,orangeandcitruspeelandbitterchocolate.Itisfinishedoffwithalayerofvanillaandpistachioicecream.Itisthenfrozenandserveddecoratedwithcandiedfruit,whippedcreamandorangepeel.*

*AnnaDelConte,GastronomyofItaly,BantamPress,1989.

CollegeiceAmericansodafountaintermstillcurrent.Acheaptypeofsundaeinthatitcompriseslittleornoicecreambutismadeupwithshavedicewithfruitsyruporcrushedfruit.

ColonelSorbet,usuallylemon,servedwithvodkapouredoverit.

ContinuousfreezersAmethodbywhichcommercialicecreamismadeonacontinuousbasis.Theliquidmixandairarepassedunderpressurethroughafreezingchamberandemergeasicecream.Thisprocessisnon-stopforaslongasthemanufacturercarestorunthemachine.Patentedin1913,itcameintocommonusageinabout1922.Producesasmoothermorehomogenisedicecream.

CoupeCup-shapedcontainer, similar tosaucerchampagneglasses,oftenonsomesortof raisedpedestalbase, usuallymade of glass or silver-platedmetal. Used to serve all manner of desserts butmainly icecream.

Cream soda American soda fountain term for carbonated water to which flavoured syrup and milk orcreamhavebeenadded.Noicecreamisused.

Creamsicle™Afrozenlolly/suckerthatresemblesanicepop,thecentreisvanillaicecreamtheexteriorisa water ice. It was invented in USA by a Swedish immigrant Alexander Frehse in 1923. Similar to aMivvi™intheUK.

DasherThepartofthefreezingmachinethatmixesandbeatsthemixtureasitscrapestheicecreamfromthewallsofthefreezingcontainer.Handorelectricallydriven.UsuallyreferredtoinBritainasthepaddleorblade.

Ding-bat Ice cream confection served at Sherry’s ice cream parlour c1930 in Cooperstown, NewYorkState.Itconsistedoficecream,chocolateandmarshmallow,syrups,maltedmilkpowder,crackednutsandacherry,anditwasservedonaplate.

DixiecupPaperdrinkingcupshadbeenaroundsince1908andwereknownas‘HealthCups’,astheywereconsideredcleanandhygienictodispenseandwere,inaddition,disposable.Theybecamepopularinice-creamparloursandsodafountainsasawayofservingicecreamintake-awayportions.

In1923,themanufacturer,theIndividualDrinkingCupCompany,startedtomarket and sell individual portions of ice cream in a lidded, more tub-likeversionofthecupthatwaswaxedtopreventitsofteninganddisintegrating.Thecompany’spresident,HenryMoore,foundthatthecupsweren’tselling.Afriendof his, Alfred Schindler, a manufacturer of dolls with the trade name Dixie,suggesteditmightboosttradeifHenrycalledthemDixiecups.ThuswasbornoneofAmerica’smostfamousbrandnames.TherearemanyavidcollectorsofoldDixiecupsintheUSA.Don’tcaresyrupSodafountainsyrupforpeoplewhodidnotcarewhatflavourofsyrupwasusedontheirorder.Usuallycontainedbrandyorportandvariousfruitjuices;howeversomebooksincludenoalcoholinthesyrup.Nobodyseemedtocare!

Thecontainershadalabel‘Don’tcare’.

EpsicleSeePopsicle.

EskimoicecreamSeeAkutaq.

EskimopieChocolate-coveredice-creambarinventedandpatentedin1921byChristianNelsoninOnawa,Iowa.InpartnershipwithRussellStover(whocoinedthename,EskimoPie),theyformedacompanythatsoldamillion‘pies’perdayby1922.Thepatentwasdeclaredinvalidin1928andtodaymanyversionsarestillavailableintheUSA.

FloatInterpretationsdifferbutafloatiseitherbasedonamilkshake(flavouredsyrup,milkandicecream)or an ice-cream soda (flavoured syrup, sodawater and ice cream).These are blended at high speed andpouredintoatallglass.Dips/scoopsofacomplementaryicecream,sherbetorsorbetarefloatedonthetop.Fruitormint issometimesaddedfordecoration. It isservedwitha long-handledspoonandastraworalongspoonwithahollowtubedhandlethatactsasastraw.

Frappé Sweetened fruit juice or puree, mixed with additional water and liquidised to a soft mush andservedimmediatelyasadrink,ormarginallyharder,asadessertwithaspoon.Nowadaysoftensoldasaslush.

FromageglacéFrench.The literal translation is frozencheese.Anamegiven toan icecreampopular inFrance in the late 18th, early 19th century. The term is no longer in use. The name only refers to thepresentation of ice cream to resemble cheese. Therewas a fashion at the time formaking ice cream infancy-shaped moulds in order to decorate the table in a manner that would impress the guests. Earlymoulded ices were often referred to as fromages. The ice creamwas almost certainly a sweetened eggcustard,enrichedwithcream.Differentflavourswereput inmetalmouldsresemblingwedgescutfromalargetruckleofcheese.Afterinitialfreezingtheicecreamwasremovedfromthemouldsandsometimesformedintoroundsresemblingawholecheese.Gilliers,1751,hasarecipeforParmesanCheeseFromageGlaceIceandtheiceiscoveredincaramelisedsugartorepresenttherind.Thismustbecaramelisedsugargroundupinamortarandpestle.Singlelargeindividualwedge-shapedmouldswerealsoservedontheirown.

TheearliestreferencetoFromageisinMassioletinhisNouvelleInstructionspourlesConfitures, lesLiqueurs,et lesFruits,avecleManièredeBien,1692.ThishasaFromageàlaAngloife(Angloise)whichisanicemadewithcream,sugarandeggsandmoulded.However there isnomentionofacheese-shapedmould.Fudgsicle™PopularAmericansucker/lollymadewithacaramelcentreandanice-creamcoating.

GelateriaItalianice-creamparlour.Alwayslookforthesign‘ProduzionePropria’whichmeansmadebytheowner,andhopethatitistrue.

GoodHumorbarHarryBurt Snr.was a confectioner and candy seller inYoungstown,Ohio.There, in1910,heinventedthe‘GoodHumor’,acandysucker/lollipoponastick.Hecalledit‘GoodHumor’asheconsideredthatthehumourofthemindwasregulatedbythepalate.

InspiredbythesuccessoftheEskimoPie,HarryBurtSnr.wentontodevelopachocolate-coveredice-creambar.Hisdaughterisreputedtohavetoldhimthathisnewchocolate-coveredbarwastoomessytoeatsohetriedputtingastickinit ashehaddonewith thecandysuckers,which ishowhischocolatebarsaresold to this day. So successful was this product that street ice-cream sellersbecameknownasGoodHumorMen.GranitaAnItalianice,coarse-textured,still-frozenwaterice,9-10°Baumé(seeSaccharometerpage 52).

Do not be persuaded tomake a granitawith a higher sugar density than this as the classic granular icetexturewillbelost.

Granitascontainmorewaterthansorbets.This,andtheprocessofstirringbyhand with a fork several times as the mixture freezes, gives it characteristiclarger, crunchy ice crystals, about the size of rice grains. This sort of texturecannotbeachievedusinganyformofmechanicalmixer.Theclassicflavouringisespressocoffee.Itissublimelyrefreshingonahotsummer’sday.GuarGum(E412)Astabilizerused incommercial ice-creammaking toproducesmoothness,extractedfromtheseedsofCyamopsisTetragonolobusgrownintheIndiansubcontinent.

HardeningReferstotheadditionalfreezingofapartiallyfrozenice.Whenmadecommercially,icecreamleavesthemachinesandispackagedinitssemi-fluidstateandtransferredtoahardeningroomwherethetemperatureisswiftlyloweredtoharden(freeze)theice.Theswiftfreezingstopstheformationoflargeicecrystals.Thehardeningofhome-madeicesisbestcarriedoutusingafreezerwithafast-freezeswitch.Thiseffectively over-rides the thermostat and reduces the temperature to around –30°C. Some domestic ice-creammachineswill freeze icesmore effectively than others, i.e.will achieve a lower temperature. So,dependingontherecipeused,somewillproduceicecreamthatcanbeserveddirectlyfromthemachinewhileotherswillneedaperiodofhardeninginthefreezer.

HokeyPokeyapennyalump,That’sthestufftomakeyoujump.

CHILDREN’S19THCENTURYRHYME

HokeyPokeyTheoriginsofthenameareapocryphal;however,theyareworthrepeating.TheimmigrantItalianice-creamsellersinEnglandwerereputedtouseanumberofcries;amongthem,‘Gelati!EccounPoco’and‘Gelati!Cheunpoco’.Itdoesn’ttakemuchimaginationtoseethatthiscouldeasilybecorruptedbytheEnglishintoHokeyPokey.ThisnamespreadtotheUnitedStates,wherethereareclearreferencestohokeypokeyinsuchbooksasTheDispenser’sFormulary(Haynes,NewYork,1915).Lateritwassimplyusedasaslangnameforicecream.

AfrozenbrickofHokeyPokeyreadytobecutup.

InstructionsformakingaNeapolitanbrickandtoshopkeepersoncuttingandwrappingHokeyPokeyinwaxpaper.

HokeyPokeywasacheap,brick-shapedNeapolitanstripedicecream,usuallyintwoorthreecolours.Thiswascutintosmallslicesabout5×5×1.25cm(2×2×½inch).Itwasdispensedbythevendorfromhisbarrow,wrappedinsmall

squaresofwhite,usuallywaxedpaper,tobetakenawayandeaten.InNewZealandHokeyPokeyhasbecomethenameforaqualityicecream

containingpiecesofcindertoffee/brittle.Seerecipepage168.‘HokeyPokeyisofafirmermaterialthanthepennyiceoftheItalians;itisbuiltupofvariouslyflavouredlayers.Soldinhalfpennyandpennypaper-coveredsquares,keptuntilwantedincircularmetalrefrigeratorpotssurroundedbyice,HokeyPokeyhastheadvantageoveritsrivaleateninglasses,inasmuchasitcanbecarriedawaybythepurchaserandconsumedatleisure.Besidesbeingvariouslyflavoured,HokeyPokeyisdreadfullysweet,dreadfullycold,andhardasabrick.ItiswhisperedthatthenotunwholesomeSwedeturnip,crushedintopulp,hasbeenknowntoformitsbase,inlieuofthemoreexpensivesuppliesfromthe

cow,whosecomplexelaborationofcreamfromturnipsisthusunceremoniouslyabridged.’OLDLONDONSTREETCRIES,1887

IcecaveEarlynameforafreezer.Thiswasusuallyametalcupboardorawoodenboxlinedwithmetal.Thesehadhollowpanelsonthesidesorthetopandbottomintowhichamixtureofsaltandicewaspacked.Thisreducedtheinternaltemperaturetobelowfreezingpoint.

IceCreamFRENCHArichicecreambasedonasweetened,eggthickenedcustardusuallywith thickcreamadded.Originallystillfrozen,nowadaysitischurned.

ITALIANAsweetenedmilk-basedcustardthickenedwitheggs,orlatterlycornflour/cornstarch.Ittypicallycontainslittleornocreamatall.Thismeansthatlessairisincorporatedduringchurningorstillfreezingsoalthoughtheicecreamislessrich,itisdenserandthereforegivesamoreintenseflavournotmaskedbythefatof cream.Referred to in ItalyasGelato. Italycoined thisword for icecreamandextended itsuse to‘gelateria’todescribeaplacesellingices.GelatoisnowwidelyusedintheUSAinsteadofthewordicecream. It is commonly assumed to be a less rich, ‘lower fat’ type of ice cream, however some historicrecipesareveryrich,asaresomeofthemodernrecipesforgelatofromItalianchefs,containingaveryhigheggcontentandalotofthickcream.

PHILADELPHIAPennsylvaniahasalwaysbeenoneofthemajordairystatesintheUSA.CreambeingabundantlyavailableinthethencapitalofUSA,theyuseittothemaximumtomaketheirowndistinctiveicecream.Ithasthefollowingcharacteristics:-

1. Ithasnocustardbase.Theingredients(creamandsugarandvanilla)aremerelystirredtogetherbeforechurning.

2. AtruePhiladelphiacontainsnoeggs,ormilk,althoughthesebegantobeaddedatthebeginningofthe20thcentury.

3. ItALWAYScontainsspecsofvanillaseedtoshowthattruevanillahasbeenusedratherthananinferiorflavouring.Itisclosetoanicedcream,(seebelow)butischurnedduringfreezing.TruePhiladelphiaicecreamisslightlygrainyduetothelackoftheemulsifyingeffectofeggs.

In the 1850s vanilla was a highly prized, expensive perfume and spice towhichPhiladelphiahadaccessthroughitsdirecttradinglinkswiththeCaribbeanandSouthAmericaaswellasFrance.ThefashionableladiesofPhiladelphiainthelate18thandearly19thcenturiesfollowedtheFrenchmodeandconsidereditasignofextremecultivationtobeabletoserveanicecreamflavouredwithvanilla that had been grated against a cone of sugar. We are told that todayPhiladelphianswillrefusetheiricecreamifitdoesnotcontainblackspecks.Ice-creamsodaMadebyputtingfruitinsyrup,oraflavouredsyrup,withascoopoficecream,orwhippedcreaminaglass;pressurisedsodawaterisaddeduntiltheglassisthree-quartersfull,thentwoscoopsoficecreamareadded.Theglassisthentoppedupwithadditionalsodawateranddecoratedwithwhippedcream.Itisservedwithalong-handledspoonandastraw.

Reallyskilfulsodajerksbalanceoneofthescoopsoficecreamontheedgeoftheglasswiththeicecreamjusttouchingthesodawater.

Accordingtothe1914editionoftheSodaFountainmagazine,theice-creamsodawasinventedbyPhilipMohrinhisshopinElizabeth,NewJersey,priorto1872.Thefirstrecordofanice-creamsodabeingsoldinLondonissurprisinglyto be found in theNewville, Pennsylvania Times, 26 December 1894, and itapparentlybecameacrazeovernight.IcedCream This can be regarded as the original ice cream inEngland.Creamwaswhipped until stiff,sweetenedandflavouredthenfrozensolidwithoutchurning.Seerecipepage229.

Icedpudding Term coined byCarême (1784-1833) for ice-cream puddings. e.g. Iced Cabinet Pudding.AfterthefallofNapoleon,CarêmeworkedforayearandahalfforThePrinceRegent(laterKingGeorgeIV)inLondonandBrighton.

Jerk/sodajerkExpressionusedtodescribeemployeesinsodafountainsandice-creamparloursasaresultoftheirexaggeratedjerkyactionswhendrawingsodawaterfromthesoda-waterpumps.

KnickerbockerGloryAmazinglythisseemstobeanEnglishinventionasthereareNOreferencestoitinAmericansodafountainbooks.NeithercanyouorderittodayinanysodafountaininAmerica.Thetitlehasnothing todowithbaggy trousers. In fact it isa surnameofDutchoriginandappears tobedrawnfromfiction.AmericanauthorWashingtonIrving,underthenomdeplumeofDiedrichKnickerbocker,wroteabookAHistoryofNewYorkfromtheBeginningoftheWorldtotheendoftheDutchDynasty(1809).Thiswasasatirefeaturing‘FatherKnickerbocker’asheadofthefirstsociallyprominentfamilyinNewYork.ThisfictionprovedsopotenttothepublicthatitbecamefacttotheextentthatNewYorkStateusedtobereferred to as theKnickerbockerState.There are still people todaywho claim to be descendents of thisfictionalcharacter.

AKnickerbockerGlorywasthetourdeforceofmilkbarsandsodafountainsinEngland.Inascendingorderitconsistedofaflavouredsyrup,followedbya

scoopof ice cream,crushed raspberries, a further scoopof ice cream,crushedpineapple,afinalscoopoficecreamtoppedwithwhippedcreamandthefinalflourishofacherry.Seepage303.The variations on this basic principlewerealtered according to the diners’ wishes and the availability of ingredients. InAmericasomethingsimilarisreferredtoasaparfaitseepage71.KulfiAnicecreamfromIndia.Thenameisderivedfromthesmall,conical-shapedmouldsinwhichitismade.Ithasadistinctiveflavourduetotheheavilyreduced(evaporated)milkthatisusedtomakeit.TheiceissaidtohaveoriginatedinDelhiprobablybroughttothecitybytheMoghulsfromKabul.TheAin-I-Akbari, 1590, describes the preparation of kulfi inEmperorAkbar’s palace kitchensmadewith khoa (aheavilyreducedmilksolid),pistachionutsandkesar(saffron)madeverymuchinthewaythatkulfiismadetoday.Exceptnowadaysitiscommonlymadewithcannedevaporatedmilktoavoidthelengthyprocessofreducingthemilkinlargepansonastove.

The mix is sweetened and flavoured then poured directly into the conicalmoulds.Thetopsarescrewedontothemouldsandtraditionallysealedtightwithdoughbeforebeingfrozen.(Seepage173.)LecithinPhospholipidthatoccursnaturallyinmilkandeggyolks;additionalsmallquantitiesarefrequentlyaddedtocommercialicecreamasanemulsifier.

Locustbeangum(E410)Commerciallyproducednaturalstabiliserusedinicecreamtopreventformationoflargeicecrystals.Extractedfromtheseedsofthecarobbeantree.

Lolly/LollipopsSeePopsicle/suckers.

MatureConfusingword,muchmisused.Correctlyused todescribehardening (page292), it isnot tobeconfusedwithageing(page289).Describestheperiodtheicecreamspendsinthefreezermaturingwhentheflavour,particularlyvanilla,developsinanice.

MellorineUStermtodescribeanyicecreammadewithvegetablefat.Inmellorinethemilkfatisreplacedwithvegetableoil(coconut,cottonseed,soybean,cornorotherplantfat)ornon-dairyanimalfat.Illegalinover 75%of the states in theUSA and in themajority of theEU. It is unfortunately allowed inBritainwhereitcomprisesover75%oftheice-creammarket.Ohdear.

Mellow Expression sometimes used to describe softening of ice cream from freezer temperature to anedibletemperature.Weprefertodescribethisassofteningasitleavesnoroomfordoubtorconfusionwithmaturingorageing.

MilkshakeItisalmostimpossibletodefineamilkshake.However,therearesomebasicrules.Firstlythemilkmustbefullcreammilk,thoroughlychilled,inorderthattheicecreamwillthickenthedrinkandnotmeltandthinit.Secondly,don’tovermix;overmixingwillalsothintheshake.

Asimpleruleofthumbis1cupofmilk(250ml/8floz)to2mediumscoopsof ice cream, whizzed briefly in a blender and served immediately (see page302).

This is the most basic shake; the permutations of flavourings, syrups andfruitsarealmostlimitless.Moscovite(Crèmeàla)Victorianicemadewitheitherisinglassorleafgelatineadded,moulded,andservedpartiallyfrozenafterabout2hoursinanicecave.Aratherrichcolddessertthattendedmoretowardsajellythananicecream.Thisiceisnotchurned.Nolongerinuse.

‘ThepeculiarityoftheMoscovite–or,togiveititspropername,

thecrèmeàlaMoscovite–consistsinthefactthat,thoughicedfromlongburyinginice,itisnotactuallyfrozen,andowessomeofitssoliditytoacertainproportionofeitherisinglassorleaf

gelatine.Itis,inconsequence,decidedly

toberecommendedtosuchhousekeepersasmaynothavefreezingconveniencesandwishtoobeythefashionatthemoment,whichdemandsthepresenceofanicedsweetoneverycarefullyarrangedmenu.’

HORACECOX,QUEENBOOKOFICES,LONDON,1899

MSNFShortfor‘MilkSolids,Non-Fat’.Thesesolids,foundinmilk,creamandbutter,consistofproteins(casein,albumin,globulin)38%,lactose54%,mineralsaltsandvitamins8%.Theirpresenceinicecream,intherightproportions,contributessmoothness,bodyandtexture.Fordetailedscienceseepage305.

Neapolitan Style of ice cream brought from Naples in the 1850s by immigrants who set up smallbusinessesmaking ice cream. The ice cream, in two ormore lurid colours,was arranged in layers in arectangular brick-shapedmould. It was then served sliced andwrapped in paper with the ends twisted,enclosingtheicecreamratherlikeaboiledsweet.Originallymadesweet,someVictoriancooksdevelopedsavouryNeapolitanices(e.g.MrsMarshallgivesarecipeusingartichoke,peaorcucumberandtomatotocreatethedifferentlayers).SeeHokeyPokeypage292.

Nesselrode Named after Count Nesselrode, the 19th century Russian aristocrat, whose chef, Mouy,inventedthisfrozenpudding.Itconsistedofacream-enrichedcustardmixedwithchestnutpuree,candiedfruits,currants,raisinsandmaraschinoliqueur.

Overrun Manufacturers’ term to describe the volume of churned ice cream obtained in excess of thevolumeoftheunfrozenmix.

Domesticallytheincreasedvolumedependsontwomainfactors;howtheicecream is agitated during freezing and the constituents of the ice-cream mix.Creamandeggsarethemainagentsforentrappingair.

Commercially the increased volume is as a result of adding stabilisers,emulsifiersandotherchemicalsthatarespecificallydesignedtoentrapquantitiesofairinthemixture.Thisisthenfurtherboostedbyairpumpedintothemixasitispushedthroughthecontinuousfreezingprocess.

Overruninabatchfreezeristheresultofthesizeofthebarrel(diameter)andthespeedof thedasher. Inacontinuousprocess freezer it is theamountofairpumpedintothemixtureasitfreezes.

The increase in volume is composed of air and is usually expressed as apercentage:e.g. If 1 litre of unfrozenmixmakes 1.25 litres of ice cream, theoverrunis25%.

Theequationtocalculateoverrunisasfollows:-

Overrunindomesticallymadeicecreamsvariesfrom5to25%,anddependsusuallyonwhetheranicehasbeenstillfrozenorchurned.

Theoverrunrangeincommercialicecreamsisupto20%insuperpremiumicecreams,butcanbeupto100%ormoreforcheapbulkicecreams.

In USA the weight per gallon is legally enforced to prohibit excessiveoverrun. Theweight per gallon of ice creammust not be less than 4.5 lb pergallonUSormorethan100%overrun.Regrettably,thisisnotsoinBritain.

It is an unfortunate aspect of the ice-cream trade in Britain that ice creamcontinuestobesoldbyvolumeandnotbyweight.Pareve Icecreammadewithouteitherdairyoranimal ingredientsbutwithvegetableoils.Therearealsokoshericecreamsavailable.ThismeansthatthemanufacturerissupervisedorlicensedbytheBethDinorKedassia.

ParfaitRegardedbysomeastheultimateicecream.It isa light-texturedice,somewhatakintoafrozensoufflé. It isnotaquickandeasyicecreamtomake.Thelight texturereliesonwarmsugarsyrupbeingslowlywhiskedintoeggyolksandthemixturecooledbeforefoldinginwhippedcream.Theclassicflavourforparfaitiscoffee,butwhiskey,liqueursandfortifiedwineshavebecomepopular.Thewhiskedflavouredmixtureispouredintoacontainerandfrozenwithoutanystirring.Thehighvolumeofairinthisicemeansitremainssufficientlysofttobeserveddirectlyfromthefreezer;averyusefuladvantagewhenservingice-creambombes.(Seepage260.)

PasteurisePasteurisationistheprocessofheatingamixtoaspecifictemperatureforaspecifictime,thencoolingitrapidlyinordertokilloffthepathogenic(harmful)micro-organismspresentinmilk,creamandeggs.

Anyicecreammadeforre-salemustbepasteurised.Thetemperaturesandtimesrequiredforpasteurisationareasfollows:-

The mix must then be cooled to less than 7.2°C/45°F within 1½ hours and must be stored at thistemperatureorloweruntilfrozen.

Pleasenote that the rapidcoolingandsubsequentstorage isas importantasthe heating. So too is scrupulous cleanliness in all subsequent handling andpackaging. Since all our custard-based recipes require heating to 85°C/185°Fandrapidcooling,youwillbewellwithinthelimitsofsafety.PectinNatural,water-soluble stabiliserusedextensively incommerciallymade sorbets.Ourexperimentswith shop-bought powdered and liquid pectin, as a substitute for egg white, sadly have provedunsatisfactory.Theflavourofthepectinistooobtrusiveinallbutthestrongest-flavouredsorbets.

PlombièresThereisnoconsistencyinrecipesforplombières.ThenamewaspresumablycoinedfromtheFrench ‘plomb’ meaning lead, from which early pewter moulds were made.Wyvern (Colonel Kenney-Herbert)inSweetDishes,1884,suggestsitisathree-tierpyramidmouldofdifferentflavouredandcolouredicecreams.BalzacreferstoitinSplendeursetMisèresdesCourtisanes:‘Attheendofthemeal,icecreamcalledplombièreswasserved.Everyoneknowsthisicecreamcontainssmallbitsofdelicatecandiedfruitsprinkledovertheicecream,andcomesservedinsmallcupswhichkeepintactthepyramidshapeoftheicecream.TheicecreamhadbeenorderedfromMadameduVal-NobleinTortoniwhosefamousshopwasatthecornerofRueTaitbouton themain street.’Plombièreswereusuallyalmond flavouredandcontainedcandiedfruit.

ElizabethDavidsuggeststhatitcamefromafrozenGateaudePlomb,whichwasatypeofrichfruitcake.Popsicle™The Popsicle, or as itwas originally called, theEpsicle,was first patented in 1923 by FrankEpperson, a lemonade seller inCalifornia.Hemaintained that in1905as a child, inNewJersey, he leftsomeflavouredpowdermixedinwaterwiththemixingstickstillinit,inaglassonthebackporch.InthemorningtheliquidwasfrozensolidandFrankhadastickoffrozenflavouredwatertoshowtohisfriendsatschool.Whenhepatented the idea in1923 itprecipitatedaclashwithHarryBurtSr, the inventorof theGoodHumorBar.AcompromiseeventuallyallowedEppersontomakesherbetorwatericeonastickandBurttomakeicecreamonastick.

ItisamarkofthedifferencebetweenourculturesthattheoriginoftheicedlollyinBritainpassedunnoticedandunrecorded.

Epperson formed The Popsicle Corporation with a number of partners, in1923butin1924hesoldallhisrightsandpatentstothePopsicleCompanyandleft the industry.The JoeLoweCorporation licensed thename tomanufacturePopsicles™in1925.

ThecompanycontinuedandstillexistshavingbeenpurchasedbyUnileverin1989.PucklerGermanice-creamcombinationnamedafter theGermanmegalomaniac travellerPrincePuckler-Muskau.ANeapolitan-typelayeredicecreamwithstrawberry,vanillaflavouredwithmaraschinoorkirsch,andchocolateicecreams,withcrushedmacaroonssoakedinthesamealcoholdividingthelayers.

Punch Term derived from theArabic, ‘panj’, awordmeaning five. It refers to the drink popular in thePersian Gulf made of five ingredients: grape juice, rosewater, sugar, lemon and ice. Under Westerninfluenceitdevelopedbothasahotandcolddrink,bothversionsservedwiththeadditionofalcohol.Thecoldpunchwasusedasapalaterefresherduringlargemulti-coursedinners,frequentlybeingservedafterthe soup, before the roast meat.When served, cold punch was in a tall glass in a semi-frozen state. Itdeveloped,asmethodsofrefrigerationimproved,tobecomemorefrozenandsolidifiedtothepointthatit

hadtobeeatenfromtheglasswithaspoon.Atthisstageitreallywasawatericesomewherebetweenasorbetandagranita.Francatellisaidpunch‘maybeservedhotorliquid,frozensimilarlytoagranita’.Laterrecipes recommend making punch using sorbet with alcohol poured over and mixed in as well as theadditionofItalianmeringue.

Punchwent out of fashion inmid-Victorian times as dininghabits changedandattentionswitchedtosorbetsservedasadessert.(seepage213).RipeningThis is the timeneeded toallow the flavour tomatureanddevelopwhilst icecreamis frozen.Vanilla, forexample, requiresup to twodays topermeate fully through the icecreamanddevelopa fullflavour.

Sa’alab/salab/salapPersianices(seepage221)

Semi-freddoItalian.Literaltranslationissemi-frozen.Italiantermusedtodescribelightparfait-typecreamices. It is also referred to in Italy asperfetti.Due tocompositionof ingredientsand the largeamountofaddedairitsimplycannotbefrozenhard.

Awordnowusedwithgreatliberalityandcasualdisregard.Sgroppinoseepage223.

Sherbet A word that almost defies definition, so mangled has it become by the influences of nations,legislation, and ignorant usage. The word probably derives from the Arabic ‘sharab’ meaning a cold,sweetened,non-alcoholicdrink.

Briefly,nowadays,a sherbet isusuallyawater icecontainingsomemilkorcream, whereas a sorbet is a non-dairy product containing neither milk norcream.Sherbetiseitherstillorstirfrozen.Thisisthedefinitionwehavestucktothroughout this book, but in the United States the Food and DrugAdministration, in their wisdom, have no classification for a sorbet. WhatEurope calls a sorbet the F.D.A. call a water ice and they have additionalclassification for sherbet (where themilk-derived solidsmust be not less than2%andnotmorethan5%)andicemilk(wherethetotalmilk-derivedsolidsarenotlessthan11%).IcemilkdoesnotexistoutsideAmerica.SorbetMostearlyrecipes(17thand18thC)refertoallmanneroficesassorbetinFranceorsorbettoinItaly.InItalybeforetheuseofthewordgelatoforices,alliceswerereferredtoassorbetto.InItalywiththecomingofthewordgelato,sorbettobecamethetermforawaterice,i.e.anicemadewithouttheadditionofanydairyproductandeitherstillorstirfrozen.

SorbettoItalianwordforsorbet.

Spongada Italian icebasedonwhippedcreamand flavouring,partially frozenandusuallynotmoulded.Sometimesreferredtoasaspumanteinthe19thcentury.Notinusetoday.

Spoom Wonderful word that has died out, possibly deriving from the word spume, meaning foam. Itdenotesasorbet,ofwhichathirdofitsvolumeisuncookedFrenchmeringue.Itisthenfrozenwithoutanyfurther stirring. Unfortunately, nowadays, everyone is most reluctant to use raw egg white, howeverpasteurisedeggwhitesmakeawonderfulsafespoom.

Spumoni Italian icemoulded in two layers in a hemisphere, claimed to originate frombothAcireale inSicily, andNaples. The outside layer is usually a custard-based ice cream flavouredwith either vanilla,chocolateorstrawberry.Insidethereisasemi-freddoorparfaitofalcohol,coffee,nutorfruit.

StillfrozenMethodoffreezingiceswithoutanice-creammachine,wherethemixisnotagitatedorstirredcontinuouslyduringfreezing.Itis,however,beatenbyhandwithaforkorelectrichandwhiskorinafoodprocessoranumberoftimesatvariousstagesduringthefreezing.

Stir frozenA processwhereby ices are frozen in amachine and are agitated/stirred continuously as thetemperatureof themixis lowered.Thesemachinesrangefromthesimplesthand-crankedmachinetothebatchmachinesandthecontinuousprocessfactorymachines.

SuckerAmericanwordforalolly.

Sundae Ice-cream dessert with syrup or sauce, fruit or nuts made according to a number of classicformulae, or according to the taste or the mood of the server, or under the direction of the customer.Whateverthecombination,itisservedonadishandeatenwithaspoon(seepage302).

The origin of the word sundae is hotly contested by public relationsdepartmentsofmanycities and towns in theUSA, eager to claim theoriginalsundae as their own.However, from the small amount of reliable informationavailable,itwouldseemthatoneorotherofthefollowingtheoriesislikely:

1. SinceearlysodafountainsandchurchesweretheonlyplacesopenfortheyoungtomeetonSundays,thesodafountainswereinevitablyseenbythechurchesascompetition.In1890,Evanston,Illinois,wasthefirstcommunitytolegislateagainstthe‘Sundaysodamenace’.Thelocalsoda-fountainownersgotrounditbysellingasodalesssundae/Sundayusingicecreamandsyrup–butnosoda.

2. Thesecondtheoryisalittlemoreconvoluted.In1881aGeorgeHallauerwalkedintohislocalsodafountaininTwoRivers,Wisconsin,andaskedtheowner,EdBerner,topourthechocolatesyrupnormallyreservedformakingchocolateice-creamsodasontoanickel(5c)portionoficecream.Itsfameandpricespreadtotheadjoiningtownwherethesodafountainowner,GeorgeGiffey,wassoconcernedthattherewasnoprofittobemadefromitat5centsthatherestricteditssaletoSundaysonly.The‘ae’wasaddedlatertodifferentiateitfromtheday.

Superpremium ice cream Late 20th century termused to describe highest quality,most expensive icecreamsworldwide.Theseareusuallyhighfat,lowoverrunicecreamscontainingonlynaturalingredients.

TherearenoregulationsinEuropeorAmericayettocontroltheuseofthisterm.Syrup Simpleor stock syrupused inmaking all sorbets, parfaits andgranitas (seeScienceof Ices page305).Thereisnosingleacceptedclassicformulaforsimplesyrup;theratioofsugartowatervaries,whichisnotveryhelpfulwhenrecipesforsuccessfulicesverymuchdependonthecorrectamountsofsugarandwater.Wehaveoptedforaformulawhichistheeasiesttorememberanduse:1litrewaterto1kiloofsugar.

This identical sugar/water ratiowas used in IlCredenziare deBuonGusto,published inNaples in 1778, andwritten by the Benedictinemonk,VincenzoCorrado,1734-1836(seepage19).ItgivesafascinatinginsightintoNeapolitan

confectionery and ices. It is an example of the confectioner’s art where allingredients including liquidswereweighed due to the problems ofmeasuringvolumes of liquids. This is still the case today with both bakers andconfectioners.

Bought, bottled syrups designed for use in cocktails vary enormously andshouldnotbeusedforices.Syrupissimplicityitselftomake.Seepage70.TemperingExpressionsometimesusedtodescribesofteningoficecreamfromfreezertemperaturetoanedibletemperature.Weprefertodescribethisassofteningasitleavesnoroomfordoubt.

Totalsolidsinmilkandcream.Therearetwotypesofsolidsinmilkandcream:–

1. Milkfat,and,2. ThosesolidswhichcompriseMSNF(milksolidsnonfat).Seeentrypage

296.Itisnecessarytoidentifybothtypesofsolidsseprately(milkfatandMSNF)incalculatingthebalanceforarecipe.Thetotalsolidsrefertotheadditionofthesetwoanditisnecessarytoknowthesenumbersseparatelyandthenintotalinordertoachievethecorrectbalanceinplanningrecipesforicecreams.

OtherSolids are the solids in sugars, eggyolks and in the flavouring thatyouhaveaddedtotheice-creammix.SeeTheScienceofIcespage305.TuttifruttiFinely chopped fruit originallymarinated inmaraschinoandworked into avanilla-based icecreamafterchurningandbeforehardening.ItisItalianinorigin.

Vegetable fat With the exception of cocoa butter (permitted in some countries to produce a cheaperalternativetodairyicecream),ahighlevelofsaturatedfattyacidsisneededtogivethewhippingpropertiesto themix.Refinedcoconutandpalmoilsmaybeused,otherfatssuchasfromcottonseed,palmkernel,rapeandsoyabeanarenormallyfirsthydrogenated.

WatericeFlavouredice,madeoffruit,herbs,spice,alcohol,etc.,withoutanydairyproductsoreggyolks.Canbestillfrozenorstirfrozen.AwatericeisthesameasasorbetoutsideAmerica.TermusedintheUSAwheretheF.D.A.havenoclassificationforsorbetsbutthereisforwaterice.

XanthamGum (E 415). A polysaccharide produced by the bacteriumXanthomonas campestris. It is astabilizersuitableforuseinacidicmixes,mainlyinwaterices.Expensive,sonotusedfrequently.

APPENDICES

Sodas,Sundaes&Floats

There are many combinations and ways of making soda fountain dishes. TheDispensers Formulary or SodaWater Guide, published in 1915 by The SodaFountain magazine, had over 3,000 recipes for soda fountains and wasconsideredtobetheBibleofsodafountains.

MILKSHAKE1.2scoopsicecream2.20ozmilk,fullcream3.1Tbspmaltedmilkpowder(optionalformaltedmilkshake)4.Liquidizeforabout30secondsoruntilsmoothandthick

FLOAT1.MilkShakeorSoda2.ScoopsofIceCream

BANANASPLIT1.Ripebanana,splitlengthwise2.3scoopsicecreamassortedflavours3.½ozeachofthreetoppings,oneoneachicecream:4.Whippedcream;5.Crushednuts;

6.Cherries

SUNDAE1.½ozofsyruporcrushedfruit2.2scoopsicecream3.1ozofsyruporcrushedfruit4.Nuts,crushed5.Whippedcream6.Cherry

ICECREAMSODA1.1½ozsyruporfruitinsyrup2.1sodaspoonicecream,whippedcreamorflavouredcream3.Sodaorcarbonatedwaterto¾full4.2scoopsicecream5.Moreof3tofillglass6.WhippedcreamServewithstrawandsodaspoon.

or7.Balanceascoopoficecreamontherimoftheglass.

KNICKERBOCKERGLORYAn English adaptation of the Knickerbocker Sundae which originated in NewYork.1.1½ozchocolatesyrup2.Scoopofvanillaicecream3.½ozcrushedraspberry4.Scoopoficecream5.½ozcrushedpineapple6.Scoopoficecream7.Whippedcream8.Brandiedorglacécherry

AMERICANPARFAIT1.Sodaspoonofsyruporcrushedfruit2.1scoopicecream3.Sodaspoonofsyruporcrushedfruit4.1scoopicecream5.Sodaspoonofsyruporcrushedfruit6.1scoopicecream7.Sodaspoonofsyruporcrushedfruit8.Sodaspoonofcrushednutsornutsinsyrup9.Whippedcream10.Cherry

TheScienceofIces

Ices,thecollectivetermforallicecreams,gelato,sorbettoandgranitietc.,isafascinatingareaofcookingbecauseitsdiversitydependsonsofewingredients.Most ices contain three or more of the following ingredients: Water, Sugar,

WholeMilk,Whipping(Heavy)Cream,Eggs,Flavourings,extracts,fruitsetc.Itisthefreezingofthewaterintheseingredientsaswellasthewaytheyare

combined,andalsotheinteractionwiththeotheringredients(sugarandfat),thatgiveseachtypeoficeitsparticularcharacter.

Thispartof thebookisforseriousmakersof ices, tohelp themunderstandthe limitswithinwhich it is necessary toworkwhenmaking up new recipes,how toevaluate recipes forallmannerof ices, anticipate theirqualities (good,badorindifferent)andifnecessaryhowtocorrectanimbalanceofingredients.Bearinginmindthatyouarelockedintoafairlytightformulawithalltypesofices,thereissomelatitudeandthisiswherepersonaltastesapply.

Commercial icecream makers and restaurateurs should also refer to page318wherewegivedetailsofsmallcommercialproductionmethods,equipmentanddetailsofrecipes.

Allices,sweetandsavoury,areamixtureof:Water(onitsownorinmilk)AirSugarsorsweeteners(e.g.honey,naturalsugarsinfruitetc.)FlavouringWiththepossibleadditionofsomeofthefollowing:Fats;milkbased(cream)Fats;non-milkbased(e.g.vegetableoil)Milk-Solids-Non-Fat(MSNF)i.e.lactose,proteinandmineralsEggyolksand/orEggwhitesCornflour/cornstarch/rennetandperhapsmasticorsalapAndinthecaseofcommercialices:StabilisersEmulsifiers(otherthaneggs)Colourings

Icesdivideintotwocategories;waterbasedandfatbased.In order to give a clear explanation of the physics and chemistry, it is

necessary to dealwith the two types of ices separately, as fat-based ices haveverydifferentcharacteristicsfromwater-basedices.

1.WATER-BASEDICESWater-basedicesaresorbets,granitasandvarioustypesoflollies/suckers.

Theynormallycontainnofateitherfromeggsorfrommilkand/orcream.Inordertosimplifythemakingofsorbetsandgranitas,almostalltherecipes

inthisbookaremadewithasimplesyrup.The simple syrup is best made in quantity and kept in a fridge. However,

thesetableswillenableyoutomakesmallquantities.Making small quantitiesof simple syrup is straightforwardwhendealing in

metricbutbecomesprogressivelymorecomplicatedinImperialandfiendishinUSAcups.Formoreadvancedsorbetandgranitamakingweadvisethepurchaseof a saccharometer or hydrometer (see Equipment page 52). Try to get onecalibratedindegreesBauméastheyaremucheasiertoreadandworkwith.IfitiscalibratedinspecificgravityorBauméthere isaconversiontable(seechartopposite).

The lower theconcentrationofsugar in the liquid, the lower the instrumentfloats in the liquid.Therefore thehigher theconcentrationof sugar, thehighertheinstrumentwillriseoutoftheliquid.

TABLESFORCONVERTINGDECIMALSCALETODEGREESBAUMÉ&DEGREESBRIX

IfyoufindthatthesaccharometerorhydrometerismeasuredinspecificgravityordegreesBrix,ratherthandegreesBaumé,youcanconvertthem.Allmeasurementsat18ºC/65ºF

NOTE:Youcanfindacontainerforthesaccharometer(anéprouvette)madeintinplate or stainless steel in specialist kitchenware shops (see page 53) orpolypropyleneonesfromwine-makingshopsandsuppliers.

Pourthemixintotheéprouvettetowithin2.5cm/1inofthetop,toallowfordisplacement. At eye level, read off the measurement at the bottom of themeniscus.THEEFFECTOFDILUTINGSTANDARDSUGARSYRUPBYADDINGWATER

Should youwant to reduce the sugar concentration of amix the charts belowshowtheamountsofwaterneeded.

SORBETSANDGRANITAS

Sorbetsshouldbewithinthefollowingdensityreadings:Withoutalcohol17-20°Baumé/31-36BrixWithalcohol14-17°Baumé/26-31Brix

Granitasshouldbewithinoneortwodegreesofthefollowingdensityrange:Withoutalcohol9°Baumé/16BrixWithalcohol8°Baumé/14Brix

NOTE:Withfruitpuréesorotherviscousmediatherewillbeerrorsinusingahydrometer. Similarly, trying to measure density by weight will also run intoproblemsifthereisanyairincorporation–atypicalproblemifaliquidiserhasbeenused.Refractometersworkbetterinthesecircumstances.

2.MILK-BASEDICESMilk-basedicescontainicecrystals,fatglobulesandaircells,alldispersedinaliquid(water)whichcontainssugar,milkproteinandminerals.Thismixtureisstabilisedbyfreezing.

NOTE:Atnopointdoesalltheliquideverfreeze.All theseconstituentshaveadirectbearingon theresultingmilk–based ice.

So the typeandamountofeach ingredientusedand themanner inwhich theyare combined (e.g., cooked, churned, frozen and thawed)will give the ice itsparticularcharacter.WATER

On its ownwater freezes into hard ice, but when it is churned and frozen incombinationwiththeotheringredients,thisstraightforwardprocessismodifiedinseveralcrucialways.

At around -8.3°C/17°F, some 67% of the water is frozen as ice crystals,dependingontherecipe.Forasmoothicecreamtheseicecrystalsshouldbeassmallaspossible.

Rapidfreezingensuresaburstofgrowthofmanysmallseedcrystalsat theheatexchangesurface,inhibitingthegrowthoflargeones;theactionofchurningdisperses the crystals evenly throughout the mix, keeping them moving andpreventingthemfromfusingtogether.Hence,astillfrozenicecream,althoughbeatenonceortwiceduringfreezing,willstillcontainlargeicecrystals,givingitacoarsertextureandacoldertastethanthechurnedversion.FAT

Fatsarethemostexpensiveingredientsinicecream,andairisthecheapest.Forthis reason they are the two most frequently varied ingredients; cheapmanufacturedicecreamhavinglittlefatandalotofair,andpremiumalotoffatandlittleair.

Inhomemadeicecreamthefatcomesmostlyfrommilk,creamandeggs,andispresentintheformofglobules.Theseinhibitthegrowthoflargericecrystalsbykeepingthesmallicecrystalsapart.Theamountoffatdictatestherichnessofthe finished ice cream, its lubricating effect causing a smooth sensation in themouth.AIR

The incorporationof air into ice creambybeating and churning is the secondmostimportantinfluenceonthetextureoficecreaminthatitseparatestheicecrystalsandfatglobulesandholdstheminafoamsuspension.

Air is without question the cheapest ingredient in ice cream. It is for this

reasonwealwaystellpeoplewhenbuyingcommercialicecreamtopickupthetubandfeeltheweight.Itshouldfeelheavyforitsvolume.Overtheyearsthegianticecreamcompanieshavespentenormousamountsofmoneyinresearchtoproduce mixes that will contain the maximum possible amount of air (seeoverrunpage296).

InboththeEUandintheUSAthereareregulationslimitingtheamountofairthatcanbeaddedtoicecream,unfortunatelysuchregulationsdonotexistintheUK. Traditionally ices have always been sold by volume and not by weightwhichsuitstheindustryadmirably.

Toestablish justhowmuchwearepayingforair, someyearsagowedidasurvey foramajorSundaynewspapercomparing thepricesofcommercial icecreamsperkilo.Themostexpensiveicesbyfarwerethelightwhipped-typeicethatcomesfrommachinesinmobilevansordispensedfrommachinesinsmallshops,forinstanteating.Theinterestingresultwasthatonastrictpriceperkilobasisthesuperpremiumicecreamswerenolongerthemostexpensive.CaveatEmptor!However thenewspaperwouldnotpublish thearticle in case it upsetanyoftheownersofthemajorinternationalicecreambrands.

In commercial ice cream,manufacturers can double the original volume oftheir product by the introduction of compressed air during churning. Thisconsiderable commercial advantage has unfortunately distorted the publicperceptionofwhaticecreamshouldbe.Homemadechurnedicecream,whichisunlikelytoexpandmuchbeyond25%duringmaking,isappreciablydenserthanthecommercialproduct.Withadenserproductcomesaverydifferenticecream.SUGAR

Sugarisrequiredinallices:

1. Togivetherequiredsweetness.2. Tobuildupthebodyandviscosityandgivesmootnesstothetextureofthe

ice.Becauseitcontributesbodytoicecream,dissolvedsugarisreferredtoasasolidintheformulationofbalancedicecreammixes.

3. Toinfluencethefreezingpoint.Inanicecreammixthesugarwillbedissolvedinthewaterofeithereggs,milkand/orcream.Introducingsugarincreasesthedensityofthemixanddepressesthefreezingpoint,whichmeansthatitwillrequirealowertemperaturetomakethewatersolidifyintoice.

Once the icecream mixture starts to freeze, small ice crystals of almost purewaterstarttoform.Thereforetheremainingsugarsolutionbecomesevenmore

concentrated(denser)andthefreezingpointisloweredstillfurther.The lower the temperature then the more the water is converted into ice,

though some liquid water always remains. Increasing the initial sugarconcentration (or equivalent)will reduce the amount of ice formed at a giventemperatureandhencegiveasoftertexture:thisiswhatmakessomeicecreamsscoopablestraightfromthedeepfreeze.

SeeGlucoseandDextrosepage60Sugar substitutes, artificial sweeteners and sugars modified to lower thecalories simply do not work in the sameway as sucrose and glucose andcannotbeused.MILK

Whole milk consists of water, fat and MSNF (Milk Solids Non-Fat) in thefollowingproportions.FULLCREAMMILK(UK)ORWHOLEMILK(US)

THECOMPOSITIONOFOTHERTYPESOFMILK,CREAMANDBUTTER

MILK&CREAMFATCONTENTSFORUKANDUSA

NOTE:AlmostallmilkintheUSAishomogenised.

ICECREAMThesecretofsweeticecreammakingishavingacorrectbalanceofingredients:

1. Betweenfatandsugar.2. Betweentotalsolidsandwater.

Thereareanumberofopinionsaboutthis.However,thesearetheareaswithinwhichacceptableicecreamscanbemadethatcanbestored.

It ispossibletomakeicesoutsidetheseproportionsprovidedtheyareeatenwithin hours of their making. However, they will frequently deteriorate inqualityifstoredanddefrosted.

Thefat/sugarratioshouldideallybewithintheseproportionstoensurethereisenoughsugartoovercomeorbalancethefattinessofthemix.

FatintheUKshouldnotbelessthan5%ormorethan20%.Atmuchbelow5%itwillbeasherbet.Ifitismorethan20%,thereisadangeroftheicecreambecomingverydenseandchewy.

Sugarshouldnotbelessthan12%andnotreallymorethan20%.THEFAT/SUGARBALANCE

THET.S.(TOTALSOLIDS)TOWATERBALANCE

Thisensuresamongotherthingsadequatesmoothnessandbody.Toomuchwater=largeicecrystals=insipidtasteandnobody.

Toolittlewater=sandinessduetothecrystallisationofthelactose.

Total solids includes sugar, fat, andMSNF (see page 296.) plus any solids infruitetc.thathasbeenaddedtotheicecream.

MSNFwillabsorbintheregionofsixtimestheirownweightofwaterinamix. This is important as excess MSNF will create lactose crystallisation instorage,andtoolowapercentagecouldleadtoicinessinstorageduetoallofthewaternothavingbeenabsorbed.THEFORMULAFORCALCULATINGTHEPERCENTAGEOFMSNFNEEDED

Soforamixturewith8%fatand13%sugar:

Forcommercial icecreamsandgelati,accordingtoPreti inGelatoArtigianaleItaliano,thepercentagesbyweightofingredientsinicecreamshouldbewithinthefollowingpercentages.

Sugar14-20%Fat6-14%MSNF6-11%

For quality homemade ice creams and gelati the figures should be withinfollowing:-

Sugar16-18%Fat8-11%MSNF9-10%

Icecreamsbelow30%intotalsolidsarelikelytobeicyintexture.Inordertocalculatethevariouspercentagesandmakeupoficecreamrecipes,

wefindthefollowingchartsimplifiesthecalculations.

CALCULATIONSAllcalculationsaredoneinweightsnotvolumes

SAMPLECALCULATIONThiscalculationisbasedonRichFrenchVanillaIceCream,seepage72.

Allcalculationsaredoneinweightsnotvolumes

A programme to make these calculations is available to download fromwww.icecreamsorbetsandgelati.comTHECOMPOSITIONOFFRUITANDVEGETABLESPERCENTAGESBYWEIGHT

ALCOHOLINICES

There is a considerable temptation to go on adding alcohol to an ice until themixture tastes right, but, because alcohol depresses the freezing point, addingmorethanacertainamountcanresultinamixthatneverfreezes.

Belowareboth theguidelinesgivenas a simple ruleof thumband, for theenthusiasticmathematician,theformulaonwhichtheyarebased.

Firstcheck the freezer temperature (seepage70) toensure that it isable toachieve a low enough temperature to freeze iceswith the alcohol content youchoose.

AsanoverallguidewewouldadvisefreezingovernightALLicesthathavehadalcoholadded.

Dependingonthealcoholusedandthetypeof‘ice’,thefollowingrulesapplyin a 1 litre/4 cups/32 fl ozmix:Weight forweight, ethanol has 7.4 times theeffectofsucroseonthefreezingpointofthemix.Spirits

(40%alcoholbyvolume)reducethefreezingpointper1litre/4cup/32flozmixbyinsorbets:approx0.6°C(1.1°F)per15ml/lTbspadded

inicecreams,gelatiandparfaits:approx1.0°C(1.8°F)per15ml/lTbspaddedFortifiedwines,sherryandport

(20%alcoholbyvolume)reducethefreezingpointper1litre/4cup/32flozmixbyinsorbets:approx0.3°C(0.6°F)per15ml/lTbspadded

inicecreams,gelatiandparfaits:approx0.6°C(1.1°F)per15ml/lTbspWines

(10%alcoholbyvolume)reducethefreezingpointper1litre/4cup/32flozmixbyinsorbets:approx0.2°C(0.4°F)per15ml/lTbspadded

inicecreams,gelatiandparfaits:approx0.3°C(0.6°F)per15ml/lTbspaddedBeers

Alcoholcontentsinbeersvaryconsiderably,socheckthepercentageofalcoholbyvolumeandbeguidedbytherulesforwine(10%alcoholbyvolume)above.THEMATHEMATICALLYMINDEDMAYLIKETOCALCULATEITTHEMSELVES:

Conversions&SubstitutesICECREAMMAKER’SGUIDEFORVOLUMECONVERSION

SUBSTITUTESTOMAKEUKWHIPPINGCREAMFROMUKDOUBLECREAM

Use3partsUKdoublecreambyvolumeto1partwholemilkbyvolume.Whiskbriefly.

MAKINGWHIPPING/HEAVYCREAMFROMBUTTER

Notmany people know thatmaking cream into butter is a reversible process.Youcanconvertbutterbackintocream.However,thebuttermustbefresh.Oldbuttergivesanoff(rancid)taste.

Convertingcreamtobutterisdoneinmanypartsoftheicecreamindustryasbutterkeepsmuchbetterthancream,andiseasiertotransport.Frozenitcananddoeslastforyears.

Wehave includedthis informationasaresultofenquiriesfrompeoplewholiveinpartsoftheworldwherefreshcreamisunavailable.

Ifyouwanttomakecreamfrombuttertakethemeasuredquantityofmilkandthemeasuredquantityofunsaltedbutterandheatthemgentlyinasaucepanuntilthe butter melts. Then liquidise for about three 10-second bursts. Cool in therefrigerator.

This cream is equivalent to whipping cream (UK) or heavy cream (US)approx35%fat.*YOUMUSTUSEUNSALTEDBUTTER

MakingIcesCommercially

Thisisamachineformakingicecream.Itisnotamachinethatmakesmoney.

Itiswhatyoubringtoitthatmakesthemoney.

JOHNJAMES.MANAGINGDIRECTORRSSHEREFORD.UK

Whenwewere first asked to add this chapter to the bookwe sought out theadviceofafriendwhoisthatunusualcombinationofabusinessmanandachef.HehadmadeanenormoussuccessofrunninganItalianrestaurantinthedepthsoftheWelshcountryside;nosmallfeat.

ThefirstvisittomeetFrancoTaruschiowaswhenhestillownedtheWalnutTree Inn, near Abergavenny inWales in 1995. Back then it taught us a veryinterestinglessonaboutrestaurantsandices.Afteraverymemorablemeal, thedessert menu arrived and on it were featured no less than 12 ice creams andabout10sorbets,aswellastheusualrangeofnon-frozendesserts.Whenaskedwhyhehadsuchalargerangehemadesomeveryinterestingpoints.

Almosteveryonewhovisitedhisrestaurantorderedadessert,usuallyanicecream or a sorbet or a selection of them. Very few people had no dessert,becausebyarranginghismenuthiswaywithsolargeandattractivearangeof

ices, he was saying to his customers not ‘do youwant a dessert,’ but ‘whichdessertdoyouwant?’AsacannyrestaurateurFrancoensuredthatdinerschooseadessert,usuallyanice,andthemostprofitableitemonthemenu.

There were additional bonuses. Once the icecream section was up andrunningitprovedtobetheeasiestpartofthekitchentomanage.SoonaftertheyopenedTheWalnutTree Inn in1963,Ann&Francohadpurchaseda small4litre/1USgallon, batch icecream freezer andemployeda local ladywhoeachdaymadeanumberoftheices.Shestayedwiththemfor36yearsproducingthismostprofitablepartofthemenuwithlittlefussorbother.IfFrancocandothiswhyhaven’tmore restaurants recognised thevalueof iceson theirmenu?Forthat matter why haven’t more people recognised the profit to be had in wellmadeices?Beforestartingtomakeicestosellortogiveawayfree,youwoulddowelltoconsiderthefollowingpoints:-

1. Ifyouaregoingtosellicesto3rdpartiesyouwillrequireaFoodHygieneCertificateandpermissionfromthelocalEnvironmentalHealthDepartment,whowillinspecttheareainwhichyouplantomake,storeandservetheices.IntheUKtheicecreammaker(chef/cook/dairyworker/caterer)needsaFoodHygieneCertificate(Basic)asaminimumrequirement.Thecourseisonetotwodayswithafinalexaminationinordertoqualify.IntheUSA,stateandcityrequirementsvarysocheckthemout.Elsewhere,youwouldbewelladvisednottotakeanythingforgranted;sochecklocallybeforeyoustart.Yourlocalinspectorcanbeagoodfriendorabadenemy,sostartontherightfoot.

2. Itisessentialthatyoucarefullyconsideryourcustomersandthenthetypeandquality(cost)oficecreamthatyouwanttosell.Thiswilldictatethetypeofequipmentandingredientsyouwillneed.Seestabilisersandemulsifiersattheendofthischapter.

3. Pasteurisationisaveryimportantfactor.Milkandcreammustbepasteurised.Thiscanbedonebyyoursupplieroryourself.Ifyourreciperequiresahomemadecustardbaseitmustberaisedto85°C(185°F).Thisbecomesanincreasinglydifficultpropositionasyouincreasethequantityofcustard.Acommercialpasteurisercanrapidlyheatandcoolamixandstoreitbeforechurning,foruptothreedays.Analternativeistobuyareadypasteurisedicecreammixfromyourdairy.Or,itispossibletobuypasteurisedmilkandcreamandapasteurisedpowder-basemix,butoncemixedthismustbechurnedimmediately.

4. Assessthequantityofices.Aretheyrequiredimmedatelyorinthefuture?

Ifyouricesareasuccess,couldyoucopewithanincreaseddemand?Considerthecapacityoftheicecreammachineneeded,aswellascontainers,freezerstoragespaceandmighttransportbeneeded.Thistooiscloselyregulated.Considerfootfall/coversandseasonalvariations.Berealisticanddoplentyofresearch.

5. Doyouhaveadequateandreliablesuppliersofingredients?6. Makecarefulandrealisticcostings,including,rent,rates,gas,electricity,

labour(evenifitisyours),ingredients,cleaningandwastage.7. Isadequateadditionallabouravailable?Initiallythiswillbeprimarilyyour

own,butyoumaywantanoccasionalbreak.Ifyouareseriouslycommittedtomakingasuccessofsellingyourownicecream,itishard,unremittingwork.

8. Besureofthetypeoficesyouwanttomakeasthiswillinfluencethetypeofequipmentandingredientsyouwillneedforproduction.Youwouldbebesttostartasyoumeantocontinue.Agoodconsistentproductwilldevelopareturningcustomerbase.

9. Payattentiontowhatisgoingonaroundyourbusiness,theseasonsandthetownaroundyou.Latchontolocalevents,andHalloween,(slugandsnoticecream).ChristmasmeansChristmascakeicecreamandEaster,egg-shapedscoopsdippedinchocolate.

10. Rememberthatunusualflavoursarealwaysgoodcopyforhungryeditorsorlocalradioandtelevision.

NOTE:-Ifyouareafarmerandlookingtouseupsurplusmilkandcream,makingandsellingicecreamsisprobablynotthebestwaytodoit.

Thequantityrequired initiallywillprobablynotexceed100 litres (26.5USgallons)perweekwhichproducesupto140litres(37USgallons).Thiswillmakeapproximately1,250scoopseach80gram/2.8oz.EQUIPMENT–GENERALCOMMENTS

Domestic machines (generally priced at under £400/$600) are unsuitable forsmall restaurants or light commercial use, as they cannot withstand sustainedharduse.

Withmachines/equipmentthereisno‘bestbuy’.Carefullyandrealisticallycalculatetheamountoficesyouwouldneedona

daily basis and build in somemargin for expansion as the business increases.Before committing to equipment consider renting or leasing, as well asreconditionedequipment.

Beforepurchasingconsider:-

l Machinery should match your output plus margin for expansion. (Smallmachinesneedmorelabour/time/skill.)lSpaceneededtohouseandoperateequipment.

l Stock levels.Howmany days supply do youwant to carry?Orwould youprefertomakeitasellingpointthatyouricecreamismadefresheveryday.Thelargertheproductionthemorefreezerstorageyouwillneed.

lYourlong-termgoalsandinvestmentstrategy.Calculateabreak-evenpointforthecostofequipment.

l Will the production be open to public view, the current trend for icecreamparloursintheUSA?

l If youbecomea supplier to restaurantsor otheroutletsYOUR reliability isvital.

l Servicing and guarantees offered. Youmust be able to get your equipmentservicedandrepairedwithoutdelay.

COSTOFEQUIPMENTMINIMALICECREAMPRODUCTION

In the next stage beyond domestic machines there are a number of optionsavailable.TYPESOFMACHINES

Buyasmallcapacitymachinewithitsowncompressor.

Small commercial counter-top, batch-freezer machines, like CARPIGIANI,

CATTABRIGGA, TELME (COREMA), CUISINART, MUSSO, NEMOX,ROBOTCOUPEandSIMACmakefrom1.5litres/1.5USquartsperbatchandwill make about 6 litres/6 US quarts per hour. They are completely self-contained,withtheirownfreezingunit.Theymeasureapproximately50cm×30cm×30cm/24inches×12inches×12inchesandwilleasilysitonacountertop.Justplugthemintotheelectricityandyouareinbusiness;pourinthemixandoutcomestheicecreaminabout20minutes.

They cost from£600/$900 to about £2,500/ $3,750. (SeeUsefulAddressespage324.)ForreasonswecanneverunderstandtheyareusuallycheaperintheUSAthan in theUnitedKingdom.Howeverdonot try to importone fromtheUSAtotheUK,theelectricvoltageandtheACcyclesaredifferent.

Thesemachinesareallverticalfreezers(theyareloadedandunloadedfromthetop).Youwillalsoneedpasteurisingfacilities.Advantages

lCostofasmallmachineislow.lLowoverrun,around30%,(theychurnat60to100rpm)hasamoreintense

flavourduetotheloweramountofairincorporated.lGreatforsmallproductionrunswhendevelopingnewicesandtryingoutnew

flavours.Disadvantages

7Producessmallquantitiesupto2litres/2USquartsperbatch,sayabout2to3batchesperhour.

lLowoverrunisacostdisadvantageforcommercialsale.lLabourintensive.ThePacoJetisatotallydifferentapproachandusesstateofthearttechnology.Itis mainly, perhaps exclusively, suitable for chefs or pâtissiers who have theadditional professional expertise to deal with this sensitive machine (Seecompanywebsite for pictures of the equipment and a video of how it works.www.pacojet.com).

Itisidealforsmall,up-marketrestaurants.Themajor advantageof aPacoJet is thatyoucanbreakmostof the rules andmake iceswith less sugar and/or solids thanarenormally required.Thisgivesthe restaurateur a huge advantage and opens up all sorts of opportunities forcreativity.Themix is put, un-churned into special cylinders, that are providedwiththemachine,andfrozen.

Whenaportionisrequired,thecylinderoffrozenicecream,gelatoorsorbet

isremovedfromthefreezerandthecontainerattacheddirectlytothePacoJet.Ahigh speed blade then shaves off extremely fine slivers of the ice, 2micronsthick. (1micron is1 thousandthofamillimetreor0.00004ofan inch.As thehuman tonguehasdifficultydetecting icecrystals less than20microns,an icecut to 2 microns thickness is very smooth and glossy, and can be servedimmediately.) Itprocessesaportion in20secondsandis immediatelyreadytoserve, or hold for service in a freezer. The frozen cylinder is immediatelyreturnedtothefreezerneithertemperednordefrosted,whichmeansthereisnodisruptiontothechillchain.

This, as the manufacturer says ‘means fresher, faster and more profitableicecreamproduction’.Howeversomeoldhandsandpuristssay this isnot trueicecream.

NOTE: It isnecessarytoaddglucose(cornsyrup)orTrimolinetoicecreamsandsorbetsmadeinaPacoJet.Simplysubstituteabout5%ofthesugar(sucrose)withglucose(cornsyrup)orTrimoline.Thisaidsscoopingandgivestheglosstothefinishedice.PriceofaPacoJetisaround£2,000/$3,000.Advantages

lVerycompact.lVeryswiftalmostinstantproduction.lNotempering,thereforeminimumwastage.lEnormousscopeforcreativity.lHasotherrestaurantoperationsforsoups,farciesetc.Disadvantages

l Not perfect for all ice creams, sorbets and gelatos as it cannot deal withtexturessuchasdefinablefruit,chocolatechipsetc.

lOperatormustknowexactlyhowtouseit.Itiseasilydamagedbymisuse.lYouneedtounderstandtheprinciplesandoperationofthemachinetogetthe

bestoutofit.Itisstillpossibletobuyold-fashionedbucket-typemachines thatarecrankedeitherelectricallyorbyhand.

In the USA White Mountain (see Useful Addresses page 324) still makecommercial-sizemachines thatproduceanythingup to6USquarts.Theseareliketheoriginalmid-19thcenturymachinesthatneedsaltandicetoenabletheicecreamtofreeze.Nowadays,theyhaveelectricmotors,aschurningamachineofthiscapacitybyhandisveryhardwork.

Advantages

lTheyarecompellingtowatchandarealcrowdpullerforallages.l The texture of hand-churned ice cream is unique andmeets with universal

approval.Disadvantages

l They are messy, and take large supplies of salt and ice which melts tocorrosivebrine.

lThecanisterstakealotoffreezerstoragespace.lCaremustbetakentoseethatsaltdoesnotgetintotheicecream.

COSTOFEQUIPMENT–INTERMEDIATELEVELAtthislevelyouaregoingtobespendingaconsiderableamountofmoneyonmachinery.Soitisgoodtoknowthattherearecompanieswhowill‘holdyourhand’allthewaythroughthisprocess.

Startingwith an assessment of the site for a prospective business theywilladvise,cost,specifyandinstallequipment.TheyalsooffertrainingonsiteintheUK,USAandItaly,orateitherTheCarpigianiUniversityofIceCream,ortheCorema Ice Cream Academy. CARPIGIANI, COREMA and CATABRIGGAhave distributors all over the world and are among the world leaders incommercialmachines.Amedium-sizemachinewouldproducearound6litres(6US quarts) per batch or about 30 litres (30 US quarts) per hour. Small tomedium-sizedbatchfreezerscostfrom£10,000($15,000)upwards.Tothisyoudefinitelyneedtoaddapasteuriser(approximately£10,000/$15,000)andasmallblast freezer (£2,000/$3,000). For contact details of commercialmachines, seeUsefulAddressespage324.Advantages

lTheabovethreecompaniesoffercompletecarepackage.lTheirmachinespracticallyhaveabrainoftheirownandareamazinglysimple

touseandeveneasiertoclean.lTheycanbeplumbedinandconnectedtocookingboilersandpasteurizersas

wellasageingvats.lTheiraveragechurnspeedisover100rpm,considerablyfasterthanthesmall

commercialmachines,howeverthisproducesincreasedoverrun.lPercentageoficecrystalsissmallerandtheiceisthereforesmoother.l This investment will enable you to develop into production of over 100

litres/100USquartsperhourifnecessary.Theycanprocessabatchinaround

8-12minutes.lTheirnetworkofexperiencedtechniciansandadvisorswillhelpinallareasof

productionproblemsandimmediateservicing.Disadvantages

lBiggerproductionneedsmorespace.lNotgoodforexperimentsortrialruns.lLargemachinesarenotgoodforgourmet/specialisticecreams.l Youmayneedseveralmarketoutlets,andthereforefreezertransport, totake

fulladvantageofthecapacityofthemachines.lYouwillneeda3-phasepowersupplyNOTE: There are other companies who make machines, but we know thatCarpigiani,CattabriggaandCoremaallhaveaworldwideservicesystem.

ICECREAMPARLOURSIfyouhaveanythoughtsofopeninganicecreamparlourmakesureyougetasmuchadviceaspossible,asearlyaspossible.

Never, ever forget that the first threemost important rules about sighting ashop are Location, Location and Location. Location can make or break yourbusiness.

Therearecompanieswhospecialiseinthisandyouwoulddowelltotalktoone of them at the very beginning. Some of them will give you a completedesign and supply contract from themachinery, storage and serving cabinets,chairs,tablesevendowntocutleryandglassesandthesmallestoperatingdetailsandarrangethecompleteinstallationofeverything.Theywillhelpyou,adviseyou,trainyouandpointoutthepitfalls.

Consider other adjuncts to the basic making and selling of ice cream tomaximise the business and see you through bad summers and cold winters.Coffee, ice cream cakes, pastries, chocolates and pannini/sandwiches are theusualchoices.

HerearesomecostsfortheMANUFACTURINGEQUIPMENTONLYfromRSS in Hereford in the UK, using Corema equipment (see Useful Addressespage324).

Theydonotincludeanyworkthatmayberequiredbythelocalplanningandfood safety inspectors who will certainly specify wall and floor finishes andspecialist lighting, ventilation and heating equipment. Neither do the figuresincludefittingthemachinery.Theyassumethattherewillbeadequatesupplies

ofhotandcoldwateravailable.InvestmentCostexVATApproxproduction

Low£15,000/$22,500kg/35lbperhour96kg/211lbperdayMedium£35,000/$52,500kg/88lbperhour240kg/529lbperdayHigh£50,000/$75,000kg/198lbperhour540kg/1188lbperdayCOSTOFMANUFACTURE

Inordertogiveyousomeideaofcostsandsellingpricesaswellasmarginswehave done some rough calculations. Obviously costs of materials can varyaccording to season and supplier.This should be borne inmindwhen readingthesefigures.

Thesecostsarecalculatedoncostofmaterialsonly.Noallowanceismadeforequipment/labourcosts/rental/heat/light/wateroroverheadsetc.,etc.

Tomakeaverybasicicecream,referredtointhetradeasawhitemix,costsin the regionof£1.00per litre/$1.50per2.11USpints.Thisconsistsofmilk,cream,sugarandamanufacturedpowderbaseofstabilisersandemulsifiersandsometimesasmallamountofvanilla.

Fortheflavour,or‘add-ins’(nuts,fruitetc)youshouldallowanythinguptoanadditionalcostofupto£2.00perlitre/$3.002.11USpints.

Thisbringsthecostoftheliquidmixtoatotalmaximumof£3.00/$4.50per3litrebatch/6.3USpints.

TofilloneNapolipanyouneedabout3litresofliquidmix(asabove).Afterchurningthismixwillmakeintheregionof5litres/10½USpintsoficecream,dependingonthepercentageofoverrunandadd-ins.5litres/10½pintsUS=approx40scoops**Thesescoopsweighapprox80g(2.8oz)Conescost(wholesale)12-16peach(US18-22ceach)Wehaveaveragedthiscostat15p(US22c)each.Assumingaretailpriceofanicecreamcone£1.20percone(US$1.80)ForUK

Minimumcostpriceoffilledcone.15pcone+7.5picecream=22.5pRetailpriceis£1.20thereforegrossprofit=97.5por533%

Maximumcostoffilledcone15pcone+22picecream=37.0pRetailpriceis£1.20thereforegrossprofit=83por324%

ForUSA

Minimumcostpriceoffilledcone.22ccone+11cicecream=33cRetailpriceis$1.80thereforegrossprofit=$1.25or545%

Minimumcostpriceoffilledcone.22ccone+33cicecream=55cRetailpriceis$1.80thereforegrossprofit=$1.25or327%From these very approximate calculations you can begin to see the profitpotentialforices.

BearinmindthatVanilla(thecheapesticecreamtomake)outsellsallotherflavours.Itisusuallyover50%ofthesales.RECIPES

Alltherecipesinthisbookthatneedchurningcanbemadeinanyofthesmallmachinesmentionedandcanbemadeuptoabout4timesmultiplesofthebasicrecipewithoutmodification.

Thereareanumberofbooksoncommercialicecreammaking(Bibliographypage328).Machinemakersandmixmakersoftenhavetheirownrecipebooks.CONSIDERATIONSINUSINGSTABILISERSANDEMULSIFIERSANDICECREAMMIXES

Althoughyoumay startoffwithdefinite intentions tomakeawhollypure icecream, to be honest without the aid of these mixes and their stabilisers andemulsifiers it is difficult to make large quantities of ice cream in thesesophisticatedlargermachines.

There is inevitably a trade off in adding stabilisers and emulsifiers tocommercialices.Plusfactors

lTheresultcanbeeasilyscoopedat−8°C,sotheyarethereforemucheasiertohandleandstore.

l Commercialmixeswill happily create an overrun of 30–50% ormore, thisincreasesprofitbyincorporatingair.

lItispossibletomake‘creamy’tastingiceswithlesscreamoreveninsorbets,wherethereisnocreamatall.

l Minimum labour/time cost in making quantities of ices in a large–scalemachine.

Minusfactors

lTheydistortwhaticecreamoriginallywas.

lThereisalossoftherealflavourandtrueconsistency.lCanhavestarklycommercialflavour,consistency,textureandappearance.E.g.

there is often a dazzling whiteness in commercial ice cream that does notoccurinhome–madeicecreamsotherthanyoghurtbasedices.

lTextureandappeareance,e.gthereisoftenanelasticitytothefinishedice.

UsefulAddresses

This is a list of suppliers who we know and have used. It is by no meansexhaustive and there aremany others youmay know or prefer.Unfortunatelymanufacturerscomeandgoasdotheitemstheysellsothislistwillbesubjecttochangebutwasuptodateatthetimeofpublication.

INGREDIENTSMASTIC,SALAPORSA’ALABUsuallyfoundinTurkishandMiddleEasternstoresUKGreenValley36–37UpperBerkeleyStreetLondonW1H5QF02074027385Emailgreenvalley@btclick.comUSA

WehavebeenadvisedthatthisTurkishstoreinNewYorkhassalapandmastic.http://www.tulumba.comKAROSYRUPFoundinbettersupermarketsanddelisorfromhttp://www.letseatdirect.comMILKPOWDER

NidoFullCreamMilkPowder

AvailablefrommostMiddleEasternshopsormailorderfromUKwww.malikstores.co.ukUSA

www.amazon.comFLAVOUREDTEASFORSORBETS&ICES

AlgerianCoffeeStores

52OldComptonStreet,LondonW1D4PBTel.02074372480www.algcoffee.co.ukTARTARICACID

Can be obtained fromhome brewing andwine–making companies or bymailorderfrom:Easy–BrewTel:01425479972www.easy-brew.comSPICES,DRIEDHERBS&VANILLA

USA

Penzeys has a vast range of herbs and spices and a range of cinnamon fromvariouscountries(800)7417747http://www.penzeys.comORGANICTOBACCO

UK

GSmith&Sons74CharingCrossRoadLondonWC2H0BGTel02078367422http://smithsandshervs.com/USA

YouneedtheloosetobaccoinsmallpouchesNaturalAmericanSpirit,100%ChemicalAdditive FreeTobacco fromSantaFeNaturalAmericanTobaccoCompanyhttp://www.sfntc.com/Contact-Us/Customer-Contact.aspxPAPERCUPSFORBISCUITTORTONIFor the real original paper cups – they are still made byhttp://www.genpak.com/cfm/contain-ersbycategory.cfm?catid=15GOLD&SILVERLEAF

Gold&silver leaf is also referred toasVark.Takecare that it is edible silverleaf.Someisaluminiumleafforpictureframing.UK

www.msk-ingredients.comICE–CREAMPARLOURORSODA–FOUNTAINSUPPLIES

UKMarcantonioFoodsLtd

Cones,mixesandalltheaccessoriesandsundriesTel.02085913399www.marcantonio.co.uk

USAA.PanzaandSonsLtd

All the supplies you could possibly need for a soda fountain or an ice–creamparlour.www.icecreamproducts.com

EQUIPMENTLakelandLtd

AlexandraBuildings,Windermere,Cumbria.LA231BQ.www.lakeland.co.uIce–cream machines, plastic freezer boxes – all sizes – lolly moulds, bowls,spatulas,simplebombemoulds,whisks,freezerboxesandbags,icematsandicepacks.Infactmostoftheequipmentdifficulttofindelsewhere.WhiskKitchenSolutions

All Cuisipro products and icecream machines. Shops in central London.Chiswick,EalingandPutneyaswellasmailorder.http://www.whiskcooking.co.uk/Nisbets

Ice-carvingtoolsandmoulds,fridgeandfreezerthermometers,excellentwhisks,icecream scoops/dippers. Professional icecream machines. General equipmentforthecateringtrade.Catalogueonrequest.Tel.08451110285www.nisbets.co.ukUSAPrinceCompany

Everythingaconfectionercouldpossiblywant.Alsosellice-carvingequipment.36East31stSt,NY,NY10016Tel(212)683-3553/(800)473-0577www.jbprince.comFantes

Everythingforthekitchenexcepttheunits.MailorderinUSAonly.1006South9thStreetPhiladelphia.PA19147www.fantes.comWilliamsSonoma

Complete range of kitchen equipment including pizelle makers and icecreammakingequipment.MailorderinUSAonly.Tel.8778126235Tel.FromoutsideUSA4057176131www.williams-sonoma.comCUISIPROEQUIPMENTSpecialise in ergonomic kitchen equipment including spoon-shaped spatulas,measuring cups andmeasuring spoons in all sorts of useful sizes, lolly/suckermouldshttp://www.cuisipro.com/CuisiproUKDistributorPaulHargreaves

29/31WoodsideBusinessParkBirkenhead,MerseysideCH411EPTel01516471748www.phassocs.co.ukCuisiproUSADistributor

802CenterpointBlvd.NewCastleDelaware19720Tel:3023264802info@browneusa.comGRANITABOXES

CurverPlastics

Theseare thebest.GrandChefRange theboxesareeither30×30cm(12”×12”)or30×20cm(12×8”).Theseensurethatthegranitacoversasbiganareaaspossibleandmakesiteasytofork.www.curver.comGRANITAFORK

RSVPInternational

Blendingforkforgranitasinstainlesssteel.Wholesalesuppliertoretailstores.www.rsvp-intl.com/index.htmKULFIMOULDSKulfimouldsinmetalandplastic.ThesemouldsarealsoavailablefromallgoodIndiansupplyshops.ICECREAMEQUIPMENT

FRANCEE.Dehillerin

Excellentrangeofelaborateicecreammouldsandbombes,andicecreammouldsin stainless steel; cone shaped and Neapolitan rectangular for hokey pokey.Saccharometersandéprouvettes.MailorderandawonderfulshopinthecentreofParis.18–20RueCoquillièreParis75001Tel.+33142365313www.e-dehillerin.frICECREAMMACHINES

Magimix(UK)Ltd

19BridgeStreetGodalming,SurreyGU7IHYTel.01483427411http://www.magimix.comWhiteMountainFreezerInc

Ice and salt hand and electric freezers with stainless steel cans and woodenbucketsavailablefrom18002518824www.brm-icecream.comCuisinart

www.cuisinart.com/products/ice_cream.htmlDIGITALREFRACTOMETER

Bellingham&Stanley

Theultimate‘Boy’stoy’forcheckingdensityofsorbetswww.bellinghamandstanley.comDIGITALTHERMOMETERS

Nisbets(seeaddressabove)Omega

Tel.0800488488TelfromoutsideUK+44(0)1617776611www.omega.co.ukLASERTHERMOMETERAnother ‘boy’s toy’ however thiswill check the temperaturewithout touchingtheitemwww.omega.co.uk

MISCELLANEOUSINFORMATIONUKIceCreamAlliance

UKIndependentIceCreamTradeAssociation.Hasconventionsandpublishesamagazinemonthly.http://www.icecream.org/TheIceCreamDoctor

DrDamonWischikofDepartmentofComputerScienceatLondonUniversity,hasaveryinterestingcalculatorforicecreamcontentandbalance.http://www.wischik.com/damon/recipe/icecream.htmlUSAIceScreamers

Collectors clubwhich runs an annual convention and a bi-monthly newsletterandisaclubforcollectorsofallitemsassociatedwithicecreamandicecreamparlours.http://www.icescreamers.com/NationalIceCreamRetailersAssociation

Tel.847-301-7500|TollFree:866-303-6960http://www.nicra.org/NationalDipper

Icecreammagazinefortheindustrypublished6timesperyear.http://www.nationaldipper.com/

InternationalAssociationofIceCreamVendorshttp://www.iaicdv.org/

PaintingReproductions

(Seepage255)AngelOilPaintingCompanyShenZhen.China.www.angeloilpainting.com

FOODHISTORYWEBSITESBoththesesitesarebrilliantandaccurate,ararethingontheinternet.LynneOlver’s

http://www.foodtimeline.org/IvanDay’s

InadditionIvanrunsaseriesof‘hands-on’historicfoodcoursesincludingoneonicecreamusingoriginalequipment.http://www.historicfood.com/portal.htm

BOOKSHOPSUKBooksforCooks

4BlenheimCrescentLondonW111NNTel.02072211992www.booksforcooks.comUSAKitchenArtsandLetters

1435LexingtonAvenue(between93rdand94thSt)NewYork10128Tel.2128765550www.kitchenartsandletters.comJessica’sBiscuit

Mailordercookbookshopwww.ecookbooks.com

ICECREAMCOURSESUKUniversityofReading

DepartmentofFoodandNutritionalSciencehttp://www.reading.ac.uk/food/short-courses/foodbio-icecream.aspxUSATHARP&YOUNG

http://www.onicecream.com/coming.htmlUK,USAandaroundtheWorldTheIceCreamBlokeSteveChristensenwww.icecreambloke.com

CanadaUniversityofGuelph

DepartmentofDairyScienceandTechnologywww.uoguelph.ca

CoursesarealsorunbythecommercialequipmentmanufacturersCARPIGIANIinmostcountries.DetailsontheirwebsiteunderGelatoUniversity.www.carpigiani.co.uk

OUR20FAVOURITESODAFOUNTAINSAROUNDTHEWORLDENGLANDMorelli’s

Harrodsgroundfloor,87-135BromptonRd,LondonSW1http://www.harrods.com/HarrodsStore/GlobalPages/RestaurantDetails.aspx?Id=789E4167-63A6-495a-9566-1C6D63AA7CF3MarineIces

8HaverstockHillLondonNW32BLwww.marineices.co.ukOddono’s

14ButeSt,LondonSW7http://www.oddonos.comFortnum&Mason’sSodaFountain

181Piccadilly,LondonW1A1ERwww.fortnumandmason.comSCOTLAND

Equi’sIceCreamParlour9-11BurnbankRoad,HamiltonLanarkshireML39AATel.01698282494Nardini’s

TheEsplanadeCafe,2GreenockRoad,Largs,KA308NFTel.01475675000http://www.nardinis.co.uk/FRANCEBerthillon

31RueSaint-LouisenL’lle75004Parishttp://www.berthillon.fr/ITALYFerdinandoBuonocore

ViaVittorioEmanuele35CapriVivoli

ViaIsoledelleStinche7FlorenceTel.+39.55.292334

http://www.vivoli.it/vivoli-en.htmlGrom

ViadelCampanileangoloviadelleOche50012FlorenceTel.+39.55.292334http://www.grom.it/eng/index.htmGelateriaAlbertoPica

ViadellaSeggiola12RomeGiolitti

ViaUfficidelVicario,4000186RomeTel.+39066991243http://www.giolitti.it/english/home.htmlGrom

PiazzaPaleocapa,1/D10121TurinTel.+390115119067http://www.grom.it/eng/index.htmGelateriaMatteo

VialedelCentenario,110Lancusi.(Napoli)Campagniawww.gelateriamatteo.itGelateriaDiPiazza

PiazzaCisterna,453037SanGimignanoSI,Italywww.gelateriadipiazza.comGelateriaUgoSRL

ViaFelice2440122BolognaTel.051263849BRAZILSorveteriaMilFrutas

RuaGarciad’Ávila,134,RiodeJaneiro22421

Brazilwww.milfrutas.com.brUSASerendipity3

225East60thStreetNewYork10022Tel.2128383531www.serendipity3.comFranklinFountain

116MarketStreetPhiladelphia19106Tel.2156271899www.franklinfountain.comLeopoldsIceCream

212EastBroughtonStreet,Savannah,GeorgiaTel.912234-4442www.leopoldsicecream.comWehavetwootherfavouriteicecreamplacesinNewYork.Theyarenotreallyicecream parlours, they are restaurants. However the quality of their icesdeservesinclusion.

OurfavouriteNewYorkrestaurantisMarioBatali’sBABBOandtheirotherrestaurant on 5th Avenue OTTO. They both serve outstanding ice creams,sorbetsandgelati.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSTudor Allen, Holborn Library, London; Mike & Sue Appleby of ApplebyAntiques;SilvestroBardellaofCorema,Italy;ProfessorPeterBarhamatBristolUniversity;ClaudioBenporatof’AppuntidiGastronomia’;Ryan&EricBirleyat The Franklin Fountain in Philadelphia; Tina Bishop; Professor AnthonyBlake; Ferdinando Buonocore in Capri; Charles Campion; Melissa Celaresu;Tony Cronin; Andrew Dalby; Philippa Davenport; The late Alan Davidson;DavidEquiofPeterEqui&Sons;RichardEhrlich,thelateLordCharlesForte,ThorandPattyFoss;ProfessorDouglasGoffatUniversityofGuelphinCanada;Giovanna Guisti at The Uffizi Gallery Florence; Vicky Hayward; RebeccaHeller;AmandaHesserattheNewYorkTimes;MichikoNozawainJapan;PeterHoeper; IceCreamAllianceHeadOffice Staff: ZelicaCarr, theCEO and herstaff, who are always so helpful, Lorraine Taylor, Donna Barker, LynetteWilliamson and Ice Cream Alliance Members, Andrew Caldwell, HenryNurkowski,SueRichards,GeoffWraithmell,MichaelMinchella,TomDavison,DavidEqui,PhilipMancini,ArnaldoMorelli,TonyManfredi,RalphJobesandDavidOtterburn;CiroIengo;GaryIngramofCarpigianiUK.Ltd;JohnJames&Neil James of RSS Hereford; Tom Jaine; Barbara Keecham Wheaton; ChrisKing of Billingtons Sugar;Marta Lenzi of B.I.N.G. Lugano; Dr R Lister fortechnicalandmedicaladvice;StrattonLeopoldinSavannah;ElenaLucheriniofAkernSRL;ValerieMars;LauraMason;DianeMcElroyofArgoStarch;Linda& Al Mellis; Sharon McLaughlin; The late Lord John Manners, PhilipMarcantonio; Remo Marcantonio; Professor James Moseley; Angela Neilsen;JillNorman;ShawnParmekis;MarkPattison;AshleyPalmer-WattsatTheFatDuck,Bray;JohnPanza;SaraPaston-Williams;James“Jocky”PetrieatTheFatDuck, Bray; Tony Pluckrose of Boult Wade and Tennant; Leigh Percival ofService Point Hammersmith; Andrew Putin of Burroughs Day Solicitors, forcopyrightadvice;PimReinders;CherryRipe;HelenSabari;LizSeeber;JunediSchino;Arthur Schwartz inNewYork; Paulo Silva of Fresenius–Kabi Brazil;Mary Taylor Simeti for spending so much time showing us around Sicily;Russell Singler, The Animation Art Gallery; Nigel Slater; Barbara & DuvalSollers; Sir Roy Strong; Jane Suthering; Tony, Fabrizia and Matilda Talluri;AylinTan;FrancoandAnnTaruschio;RichardThornton;AlfonsTipkamperofFresenius-Kabi in Germany; Jim Valenti of Criterion Ices; Hilary,Michael &CharlotteWalter;Tim&GemmaWarrillow;GillWhitehead;DrDamonWischikof London University; Derek Wilkinson and Prof. John Woodhouse atMagdaleneCollege,OxfordUniversityforpointingusintherightdirections.

Inadditionwewouldparticularlyliketothankthefollowing:DrAndrewWilby,UniversityofReading,DepartmentofFoodandNutritionalScience for technical help and advice; Nach Waxman and Matt Sartwell ofKitchen Arts & Letters in New York for constant encouragement; RosieKindersley andEricTreuille atBooks forCooks inLondon for all their help;Lynn Olver, of Food Timeline, for always being able to supply the answerhoweverdifficult thequestion; JosephineBacon for technical translation;BradCahoonofTheGeekyGuysforkeepingourcomputersconstantlyrunningandfor programming the calculations and creating and designing the web site;AlbertoPicawhomade“manna” (fromheaven) ice creamespecially forus inhisbrilliantGelateriaonavisit toRome;LindaandHerbEngel,ChristineandJohnGauder,forhelp,advice,recipeandingredienttestingandproductresearchinUSA;Ed&PhylMarkswhohavealwaysencouragedustowritebooksandbeenaconstantsourceofhelpandgoodadviceaswellasgreatfriends;CarolinYoungfortranslationandhelpwheneverweareinFranceorinfactanywhere;JeffSteingarten,foraskingallthereallycomplicatedanddifficultquestions.HisJeffersonianapproachtofoodandfoodhistoryiswhatkeepsusallonourtoes;JanetClarke, for help, friendship and constant encouragement; Louise Liddellforherpatienceduringproofreading;GillianRileyforhertranslation,helpandadviceon thehistorysectionandforalwaysbeingcheerful;ShaunHill forhisenthusiasmforicecreamsandforbeingsuchabrilliantchef;HestonBlumenthalalways helpful, always happy and deservedly the best chef in theworld; IvanDay for his friendship, encouragement, advice and help overmany years andbottles of wine. And finally Jane Judd our agent and Anne Dolamore, ourpublisher,forherenthusiasmandamazingpatience.PICTURECREDITSAll the illustrationsandartefactswhichappear in thebookarefromtheauthors’privatecollection(apartfromtheprintonpage11which iscourtesyMaryEvansPictureLibrary).Everyefforthasbeenmade totrace the copyright holders of copyrightmaterial in the book and to provide correct details.The authorsregret any oversight and upon written notification to the publisher will rectify any omission in futurereprintsoreditions.page 6 Postcard circa 1930; page 12 Belgian ‘carte porcelain’ printed card for Cafe Suisse, (Anvers)Antwerp;page19Theearliestknowndrawingofasorbettoseller,forRaccoltaDiCostumidelRegnodiNapoli,1817byBartolomeoPinelli (1781-1835);page20Emy,L’ArtdeBienFaire lesGlacesd’Office,Paris1768;page22EarlyIceCreamSeller,TheCriesofNewYork,FrancesSOsgood.JohnDoggett.NewYork 1846; page 24MrCharles Ice Stores, LindsayHouse,Chelsea, London. IllustratedLondonNews,January 1861; page 25Boys at ice cream stall,NewYork c 1910; page 31 LesMangeurs deGlaces, LBoilly, Paris 1825; page 34PennyLicks fromMerrills ofHull catalogue, 1906; page 43 Italian postagestamp,2006;page 45This print fromTheEpicurean 1894 byCharlesRanhofer, is a redrawing ofEmy1768,seepage20(Note:Ranhoferhasaddedsomemoreputti,anicecreammakingmachine,aclassicalbuildingandtwothatchedicehouses;page63Englishpostcard,Cleethorpes,1912;pages46-55Equipmentdrawings by JudithCheek; page 65Business card, Pure IceCompany, ProvidenceR.I.USA, circa 1890;

page67Englishpostcard,Blackpool,1913;page68Englishpostcard,London,1901;Pages85,89,102,112, 122, 131, 156, 157, 238Askey’s catalogue, circa 1935; page 99 English postcard, Blackpool circa1910;page103FancyIcesbyMrsMarshall,SimpkinMarshall,London,1894;page120MerrillsofHullcatalogue,1906;page125Bookcover,HermanSenn,1907;page142BonzobyGeorgeStuddy,circa1930;page164Belgianpostcard,circa1920;page170CreamofLove,Currierand Ives,circa1850;page 209Global Warming, 7th August 2003, The Times, by kind permission of Morten Morland, copyright NISynidication,TheNSPCC;page212Victorianembossedscrapbookcutout,circa1845;page218MouldedicecreamsfromMrsMarshall’sBookofIces,London,1885;page220WFranksbusinesscard,circa1800;page228MrsMarshall’sFancyIces,SimpkinMarshall,1894;page231Britishstamp2007;page255Copyofearly19thcenturymuralinLeGrandVéfourrestaurantinParis,paintedbyKeHanGuangofAngelArtShen Zhen, China; page 261 Lightening Freezer, double-sided business card circa 1915; page 271Portuguesestamp2009;page284detailfrompage12;page289Delmonico’sfoldedpapercaseforBisquitTortonifromL’EpicureanbyCharlesRanhofer1894;page294icecavefromMrsMarshall’sFancyIces,London,1894;pages302and303SodafountaindrawingsbyJoPattison.

SelectedBibliographyAnderson,TheCompleteBookofHomemadeIceCream,Barton,NewYork(1973)Anon.BrieveeNuovo

ModoDafarfi forcediSORBETTEconFacilta.Napoli. (c1695)Arbuckle/Frandsen,IceCreamandRelatedProducts,AVIWestport,Connecticut(1961)Arbuckle,IceCream4thEdition,AVIWestport,Connecticut(1986)ArbuckleandWendell,IceCreamRecipesandFormulas,GeneralPrint,Maryland(1987)Arbuckle, IceCreamStoreHandbook,Arbuckle&Co,Maryland(1983)Arbuckle,TheLittleIceCreamBook,Arbuckle&Co,Maryland(1981)BachmanWalter,SwissBakeryandConfectionery,Maclaren, London (1949) Baer, Max The Preparation and Processing of Ice Cream Mix, Olsen,Milwaukee (1927) Baldini, Filippo,De’ Sorbetti, Arnaldo Forni Editore, Naples (1784) Bara.M. P.L’UsagedelaGlace.Lyon(1676)

Beaty-PownallS.,The“Queen”CookeryBooksICES,HoraceCox,London(1899)Boeglin,Sundaes,Ice&CreamSodas,HowtoMake,Jenkins,London(1927)Bonauguri&Mairi,TecnicadelFredo,Hoepli,Milan(1977)Borella,TheCourtandCountyConfectioner.York1770.

Capeder,IGelati,Falbri,Milan(1983)Clarke,ChrisTheScienceofIceCream.RoyalSocietyofChemistry,London(2004)Collett,IceCreams,

Black,London(1979)Colpi,TheItalianFactor,Mainstream,Edinburgh(1991)CoxJ.Stevens,IceCreaminQueenVictoria’sReign,TheToucanPress,GuernseyC.I. (1970)Societyof

DairyTechnology,IceCream,London(1981)DalyBrothers,WhatEveryIceCreamDealerShouldKnow,NewYork(1914)DeGouy,IceCreamandIce

CreamDesserts,Dover,NewYork (1938)Dickson, PaulTheGreatAmerican IceBook,Atheneum,New York (1972) Dueker J. & C., The Old-Fashioned Homemade Ice Cream Cook Book, Bobbs-Merrill,Indianapolis(1974)Dumont-LespineG.,Entrementsetboissonsglacés,MaxGlottschalk,ParisEllis,Monica, Iceand IceHousesThrough theAges,SouthamptonUniversity (1982)Emy,L’Art deBienFaireLesGlacesD’Office.Paris(1768)

Etienne,M.TraitéDeL’Office.Paris(1859).Fabbri,IGelati,Fabbri,Milan(1989)Feltham,LeonardR.M,TheMakingofIceCream1stedition,Heywood,London(1934)Feltham,Leonard

R.M.,ServiceforSodaFountains,Heywood,London(1936)Fisk,WalterW.,TheBookofIceCream,Macmillan,NewYork(1924)Francatelli,C.E.,TheRoyalConfectioner,ChapmanandHall,London(1874)Fuller,William.NeapolitanIces(c1856)

Gilliers,JosephLeCannamelisteFrançais.Nancy.(1751)GlassCircleNo5,VariousAntiqueCollectorsClub,London(1986)Gosetti,Fernanda, IIGelato, Fabbri

Editori,Milan(1985)HarveyandHill,MilkProducts,Lewis,London(1937)Hayne,Ice-CreamMakingonaSmall Scale,McLaren,London (c. 1920)Hayward-Tyler,AeratedWater

Machinery,Chester-Master,Gloucester(1893)Heller’sGuideforIceCreamMakers,B.Heller&Co.,Chicago(1918)H.M.S.O.AbridgmentsofSpecifications.PatentOffice.Class281855-1892(1998)andClass291855–1888.(1896)LondonHurst,Bernice,TheHomemadeBookofIceCream,ApplePress,London(1984)IbnAbuUsaybi’a.KitabUyunal-AnbafiTabaqat-al-AtibbaKitab(c1260)1972editionbyAhmadibnal-QasimIbnAbiUsaybi’ah.AugustMuller.GreggGermany.(1972)Janet.LesDelicesdeParis.(1804)

Kinross,Felicity,CoffeeandIces,London(1991)Lacam,Pierre,LeMemorialdesGlaces.Paris(1911)Lacam, Pierre&Charabot,Antoine,LeGlacier Classique et Artistique en France et en Italie.Corbeil.

(1893) Leon, SimonCandy and ice cream making (Encyclopaedia of), Chemical Pub., New York(1959)McGee,Harold.McGeeonFood&Cooking.Hodder&Stoughton.London(2004)MinistryofAgriculture and Fisheries,Food Standards Report on Cream, H.M.S.O., London (1982)Mrs A. B.Marshall,TheBookofIces(4thedition),Marshall’s,London(1985)MrsA.B.Marshall,TheBookofIces,Marshall’s,London(1926)MrsA.B.Marshall,FancyIces,Marshall’s,London(1894)

MrsA.B.Marshall,Marshall’sCatalogueofMoulds,Marshall’s,London(c.1880)MarksEd,IceCreamCollectibles.AtglenPA.USASchiffer(2003)Menon,LaScienceduMaîtreD’Hôtel.Paris(1768)

MichaelP.,IcesandSodaFountainDrinks,Maclaren&Sons,London(c.1925)Osgood,Frances.S.TheCriesofNewYork.DoggettNewYork(1846)Pomeroy,Ralph,TheIceCreamConnection,PaddingtonPress,London(1926)Portinari,Folco,VogliadiGelato,Idealibri,Milan(1987)

Preti, G., II Gelato Artigianale Italiano, Hoepli, Milan (1985) Ranhofer, Charles of Delmonico’s. TheEpicurean New York (1894) Reid, Robert G., Ice Cream Plant and Manufacture, A. Rayment J,London(1924)Reinders,Pim,Licks,Sticks&BricksUnileverRotterdam(1999)RothwellJ,IceCreamMaking,2ndedition,Nottingham.IceCreamAlliance(1985)Senn,C.Herman,LuncheonandDinnerSweetsincludingtheArtofIceMaking,WardLock&Co.,London(c.1920)Seranne,CompleteBookofDesserts,FaberCookBookClub,London(1967)Smith,Wayne,IceCreamDippers,Walkersville,Maryland(1986)SodaFountain,TheDispensersFormularyorSodaWaterGuide,Haynes,NewYork(1915) Soldo, Marco del, Manuale Practico del Gelatiere, De Vecchi, Milan (1986) Terrington,William,CoolingCupsandDaintyDrinks,Routledge,London (1869)Vine,FredT., Ices,Plain andDecorated,BritishBaker&Confect,London(1890)Vine,FredT.,IcesforShopSale,BritishBaker&Confectioner, London (1910)Willis, Gaylord,Old Uncle Gaylord’s Ice Cream Book, Brandon, SanFrancisco(1975)

IndexGENERALINDEXA&PSupermarkets29àlamode289AccademiadelCimento15Acquaviva,Cardinal43Adzuki/azukibeans99Age/ageing289Alcoholinices315Alkalisedcocoa58Almondextract57AmericanSodaFountainCo.27Anheuser-Busch28Ansidei,Michele18Appearanceoficecream65Akutaq289Argocornstarch58Artglace41Artusi,Pellegrino27Ashmole,Elias16AubergedeL’ill217Audiger,L15,16Aufait289Aylmer,Felix11Bacon,Francis14Bacterialgrowth69Bainmarie46Baldini,Fillipo21Balsamicvinegar228Bananasplit27,28,125,289,302Banana,firstinUSA27Barham,ProfessorPeter51batchfreezer289Bauméscale307Beard,James57Bell,Joseph23,112,229Bellini200Bergman,Torben23Bertillon,Paris120Black,William18Bladen,Thomas18Bleeding290

Blender46,47Blumenthal,Heston35,158,183,184,213Body65Boilly,L,32Bombe46,72,118,135,230,256-264Bonne,Elisabeth23Borella20,106Bottlebrushes47Bourbon,Houseof42Boyle,Robert20Brainfreeze290Briosca/brioche34BrixseeBauméBrosse,Athol239Bruce,Stephen125Buonocore,Ferdinando,Capri87Buontalenti,Bernado10,14Burt,Harry28Buttertocreamformula317Cabeus15CaféProcope16,21,36CaféTortoni11Caird,John23,189Calculationicecreammixes311Canditod’uova19Capri87Caramel,cooking110Carême23CassatagelataálaSiciliana290Cassis172Catherine,theGreat32Chapelle,VincentLa18CharlesI10CharlesII16Chocolate,allabout57Chocolate,white58Cristina,EmpressElisabeth256Churchill,Winston30,64Clark,Sam&Sam240Cocoa,allabout58Coconutmilkpowder140Coconut,aboutopening138Collegeices290Colonel290Commercialcosts320equipment319icecreammaking318

Compositionoffruitsandvegetables313,314

Condensedmilk310Conehistoryof32Conemaker47Congelare10,42Conte,Annadel228Continuousfreezer291Conversiontablesbaumé/brix307Conversiontablescups/volume316Coolbags/boxes47Cornsyrup60Cornets34,35Cornflour/cornstarch43,58CorradoVincenzo17,19,21,42,151Corre,Joseph23Coup291Cream58&milkfat310frombutter317whippingfromheavycream317

Creamsicle291CrèmeD’Arcy189Crèmefraîche59Creamsoda291Cuisine/office,differences17Cupmeasures47Dasher291David,Elizabeth16,141Day,Ivan112,132,189Debucourt23,36Debuisson,M21Delmonico’srestaurant,NewYork27,45,83,149,330D’Emery,Sieur16DeMedici,Catherine9,14DeMedici,FerdanindoII15DeMedici,Leopoldi15Dextrose/sucrose60Dienebier,Enrico18Dipper47Disher47Dixiecup29,291Don’tcaresyrup291Doublesaucepan47Doumar,Abe35Dreyer,William30Eales,MrsMary18Egg(s)

sizesUK&USA59inices19warning59

Eldoradoicecream30Emy20,32,100,106,108,112,150Endothermiceffectofsaltonice13EntenteCordiale100Epperson,Frank29Eprouvette48,53Epsicle291Escoffier17,39,100Eskimoicecream291Eskimopie29,291Fat308FatDuck,Bray35Fatsugar,balanceinicecream311FerdinandoRoberto15Flavouroficecream,correct65,66Float291,302Frapp291Frascati,Paris36Freezerfilm48Fridges&freezers48runningtemperatures70fromageglace291

Frugoli,Antonio15Fruit,compositionsof314,315Fudgsicle292Fuller,Thomas26Funnels48Fussell,Jacob25Gambetta100Garabaldi27Garchi36,37Gatti,Carlo25,27Gelateria292GelateriadellaScimmia,Napoli34GelateriaTirreno,Formia142Gelatineinices60Gelatomodern43originsof40whatis40

GeorgeIV,23,32,112Gilliers,Joseph20,108Glassexciseduty33Glasse,Hannah20Glasso,GiovanniVinceslao18

Glucose60Goat’smilk/cheese157Goetz,Freidrich24Goldensyrup60GoodHumourbar28,292Granitadensity308Grigson,Jane238Guargum292Gunter,Robert141Hambro,Natalie150Hamwi,ErnestA,35Hardening292HarrysBar,Venice200Hayward,AbrahamQ.C.9Heatdiffusermat48Helado42Hokeypokey34,168,292Holt,Geraldine153Hood,H.P.29Hoodsie29Horlick,William27Horton,James26Hygiene69IbnAbuUsaybi14IbnBakhtawayhi14Ice&saltratios81cave294houses10,21

Icecreambuckettypemaker48glasses,seepennylickheadache290Italianicecream,definition294parlours322Philadelphia294pre-frozencanister49salesinUK30self-containedmaker49soda,definitions294whatisgood64,311

Icedcabinetpudding23Icedcream294Icedpudding23,295Ices,definition39InnocentXII,Pope17James,John318Japan27

Jarrin,WilliamAlexis24,213JeffersonThomas21,22,83Johnson,Nancy25Josephine,Empress11Jugs50Kennedy,Jackie125KnickerbockerGlory295,303Kulfi50,295Kumiss14Labels50Latini,Antonio16,42Lecithin295Lemonsqueezer50Lenzi,Philip20Liberty,statueof257Lick,seepennylickLippincott,John27Locustbeangum295Lolly/sucker50,295LondonGazette16LouisXIV15LouisXV32LouisXVI32Lyonsicecream30m.s.n.f296Maltedmilk27Marchioni,Italo28,35,36Marmalade189MarsBar131Marshall,MrsAgnes,26,27,28,113,189,213,226Massey&Sons18Massiolot,François16,18,189Masters,Thomas25Mattei,Venantio15Matthews,John24,27Mature295McGee,Harold204Measuringspoons51Mellorine,definition295Mellow295Meltrate,correct66Menon,François20,100,108Microwave51Milk61allabout309compositionof309,310driedpowdered61goats157

longlifeorultrapasteurised61solidsnonfat296,305,309,311,313

Milk-basedices308Milkshake296,302Monardes,Nicolas14Monk,TheHungry96Monticello23Moscovite,cremeála296Moulds95,129Mussolini95,129Napoleon11Neapolitan296Needham,Joseph14Negri,Domineco20Nero9Nesselrode296Nutt,Frederic22,213Obesity7Office/Cuisine,differences17Originsofeggsinicecream18Othersolids300Overheatedcustard,howtodealwith74Overrun296Pacojet320Paper,greaseproof52Parfait71,297,303Parve297Pasteurise,definition297Pasteurising319Pectin297Peel,SirRobert25Pennylick31,32,33,34,197Persianices298Philadelphiaicecreamdefinition294Pica,Alberto87Pinelli,Bartolomeo19,23,330Pizellemaker52Plombieres298Polo,Marco9Pompadour,Madamede32Popsicle,definition28,29,298Porta,Giambattista14Procope,Francesco,deiColtelli16,36ProhibitionActUSA28Puckler-Muskau,Prince298Puffer27Punch298Ranhofer,Charles27,45,83,102

Redi,Francesco32Refractometer52Refrigeratedrailtrucks27Rennet172Reynière,Grimoddela23Ripen,icecream298Risley27Ritfelt,Arnaldo18Riva,Andreas223Roberto,Ferdinando23RockyRoad30,130Rossi,Antoniode18RSSHereford318Rumford,Count83StLouisworldfair35Sa’alab,sa’lap298Saccharometer52Salmon,William132Salt&iceratios81Saucepans53Scales53Scappi,Bartholomeo10Schwarz,Arthur100Scienceoficesair308compositionofmilk,butter&creamfat308MSNF309sugar309,311water-based305,306

Scoops53Semi-fredo298Serendipity125Sèvresporcelain32Shaida,Margaret221Sherbet65,70,299Sieves54Silva,Paulo204,206Smith,Delia239Sodafountain28,302,303Sodajerk295Sorbet/sorbetto299Sorbetdensityneeded308Sorbettidigelati43Spatulas54Spongada299Spoom262,299Spumoni299Stillfrozen80,299

Stillman,Benjamin23Storageboxes54Strong,SirRoy17Suckers299SucroseseeglucoseSugar,allabout61,309Sugar/fatbalanceinicecream311Sundae299,302Sundaymorningmenace299Superpremiumicecream300Syrup,300conversions306dilutionwithwater307effectondensity307mixingsmallquantities306

Tang,King,ofShang14Taruschio,Franco152,318Tastingices64Tea,infusingforteaices231Temperaturetoeatices,correct65Temperingicecream300Textureoficecream,correct66Thackeray,WilliamMakepeace36Thaiicecream93TheTable113Thermometers55Tobacco133Tortoni11,100,102Tosi,Dominenico18Totalsolids,definition300Totalsolids/waterbalanceinicecream311TraderVic186Tudor,Frederic25Tufts27Tuttifrutti300Unilever8USForces146Valvona,Antonio28VanHouten,CoenraadJohannes58Vanilla61Vegetables,compositionof314Victoria,Queen24Villafrance,Blasius14Volumeconversiontables316Wales,Princeof16,100,213,229Walford15Wallsicecream30WalnutTreeInn,Abergavenny152

Waterice,definition300,305Watson,Ruth83Welch,DrThomasBramwell160WenhamLakeIceCompany18,24Werthers240Wheaton,BarbaraKetcham17Whisks55WhitfieldRoderick14Woolton,Lord30,64World’sFairCornucopia35Xanthangum300YangWanli14Yoghurt62Zalabia35Zesters55Zimara,MarcoAntonio14

RECIPEINDEXAfterEightMints&MilkLollies249AllspiceBiscuits281Almond&LemonGelato87AlmondMilkLolly246AlmondCrumble285AlmondGranita87AlmondTuiles279AlmondWaferBiscuits278Amaretti&NectarineIceCream192AmarettoParfait88AngelicaSorbet88Apple&VerbenaSorbet89Apple,BramleyIceCream88Apple,Pippin&RosePetalIceCream90Apricot&CardamomSherbet91ApricotSauce266ApricotSorbet92Apricot,Honey&YoghurtIce92AvocadoIceCream93Avocado&CoffeeIceCream93Bailey’s&MilkLollies246Bailey’sOriginalIceCream94BakedAlaska,Classic83BakedAlaska,SummerVersion85BalsamicVinegar&StrawberryIceCream228Banana&coconutmilklollies250&fudgerippleicecream96&rumorginicecream95brownsugar&peanutbrittleicecream95gelato,roast94

icecream95instantice242yoghurtice96

BanoffeePieIceCream96BASICRECIPESgelatomadewithcornflour75,76granita71parfait71richFrenchvanillaicecream72sorbet71standardFrenchvanillaicecream72standardItalianvanillagelato75sugarsyrup70

Basil&TomatoSorbet234Basil-FlavouredLemonSorbet182BasilGranita167BasilSorbet167BayLeafIceCream98BayLeaf,Lemon&WhiteWineGranita98Bean,Red,JapaneseIceCream99BelliniSorbet200BicerinGelato126BISCUITSallspice281almondcrumble285almondtuiles278almondwafer278brandysnap280,281brittles&pralines285cigarettes279cornets&tulipes281cornetsorcones280curved279flat281honeycombtoffee/taffy282italianmeringue284meringueitalian284meringues,themotherofall283nut&seedpralines/brittles285pralines&brittles285seed&nutpralines&brittles285sugarglass286tulipes280wafer278wafers,icecream277

BisquitIcesorBiscuitTortoni100–103BlackCherryInstantIce242BlackRum&MintSauce273

BlackberryGranita104BlackberryIceCream103BlackberrySorbet104BlackberrySpoomSorbetBombe262BlackcurrantIceCream104BlackcurrantSorbetwithMint105Blackcurrant&MintRippleIceCream190BlancmangeIceCream105BloodyMaryLollies247Blueberry&ButtermilkLollies248Blueberry&ButtermilkSherbet106BlueberrySauce,Hot266BombeMarie263BramleyAppleIceCream88BrandySnaps280,281Brittles&Pralines285BrownBreadIceCream106BrownSugarIceCreamwithPeanutBrittle95,108BurntChocolateGelato127ButterIceCream108Buttermilk&BlueberryLollies248Buttermilk&BlueberrySherbet106ButtermilkGelato109ButtermilkIceCream109Buttermilk,Rum&SultanaIceCream110ButterscotchSauce267CaipirinhaSorbet112Campari&GrapefruitSorbet163CandiedOrangeZestwithSyrup276CantaloupeMelonSorbet189Caprilú87Caramel&MilkLollies248CaramelIceCream110CaramelSyrup247Cardamom&ApricotSherbet91CardamomKulfi-StyleLollies248CaviarSavouryIce111CharentaisMelonSorbet190CheesecakeIceCreams114Cherry,Sour&WhiteChocolateIceCream135Cherry,MorelloIceCream115ChineseWalnutBrittleIceCream238Chocolate&freshminticecream128&hazelnuticecream130&spicebiscuiticecream129&pedroximenezsherrygelato133&portgelato132

aftereightmints&milklollies249banana&fudgerippleicecream96biceringelato126burntchocolategelato127brownieicecream129drinkingchocolatelollies249everydayicecream118frrrrrrrozenhotchocolate125fudgeripple268fudgesauce268gelato117gelatowithtobacco133icecreamwithrosemary129icedmontblanc116maltedicecream130marsbar131nutellagelato128parfait121richicecream118rockyroad130russiantoffeesauce273sauce,double267sauce,milk269sauce,sharp268sharpchocolatesauce268sherbet121sourcreamicecreamwithrussiantoffee224stracciatellagelato126terry’schocolateorangeicecream122ultimatechocolateicecream120whitechocolateicecream134whitechocolateicecreamwithblueberrysauce135whitechocolateicecreamwithsourcherries135whitechocolateicecreamwithtoastedalmonds135

ChristmasCakeIceCream135ChristmasCakeIceCreamwithBrandyParfaitBombe262Christopher’sBombeSurprise262CiderLollies249CiderSauce269CiderSorbet136CiderVinegar&RaspberryGranita216

Cigarettes279CinnamonIceCream136CitrusSorbet136ClementineSorbet137CloveIceCream137CoconutIceCream,Easy140

CoconutIceCream,Toasted138CoconutMilk&BananaLollies250CoconutMilkLollies250Coffeeespressogranita143&avocadoicecream93&milklollies,instant250espressoicecream141gelato,white141granita142icedfroth140parfait144sorbet,freshbrewed144sorbet,instant144syrup275

CointreauParfait71ConcordGrapeGranita160ConcordGrapeSorbet160Cornets&Tulipes281CornetsorCones280CornishClottedCreamIce145CranberryGranita145CranberrySorbet146CrèmedeFraises226CrèmedeMarronsIceCream116CrèmeFraîcheIceCream146Cucumber,WhiteWine&MintSorbet146CurvedBiscuits279,281Damson&SourCreamIceCream147DamsonJamIceCream147DarkRum&MilkLollies254Date&OrangeIceCream195Date&SherryGelato148DeepFriedIceCream153Delmonico’sSorbet149Delmonico’sLollies248DrinkingChocolateLollies249DulchedeLecheIceCream150EarlGreyTea&PruneGranita212EarlGreyTea&PruneSorbet210EarlGreyTeaGelato231EarlGreyTeaSorbet231EggCandySorbet151ElderberrySorbet152ElderflowerSorbet152EnglishIceCream150EnglishToffeeIceCream233EnglishToffee&RumIceCream233

EsKrimAdpokat93EspressoCoffeeIceCream141Fig&FigLeafIceCream153FlatBiscuits281FromageauxEpinglesouál’Anglois150FrozenEgg109FrrrrrrrozenHotChocolate125GaliaMelonSorbet190GELATOSalmond&lemon87bicerin126burntchocolate127buttermilk109caprilú87chocolate117chocolatewithtobacco133chocolate&pedroximenez133chocolate&port132date&sherry148earlgreytea231gummastic176hazelnut167madewithcornflour76madewitheggs75,79masticwithrosewater176microwavevanillamadewithcornflour79microwavevanillamadewitheggs79nutella128oliveoil194panforte198pistachio207poppyseed210roastbanana94roastedrice220soyamilk224standardItalianvanilla75stracciatella126strawberry225whitecoffee141zabaglione242

GeraniumLeaf,ScentedIceCream154Gin&BananaIceCream95Gin&TonicLollies250Gin&TonicSorbet155Ginger&LimeGranita156GingerIceCream155Ginger,StemIceCream156GlaceauBeurre108Goat’sMilkIceCream157

Goat’sCheeseIceCream157GoldenSyrupIceCream158Gooseberry&RosemarySorbet159GooseberryIceCream159GRANITASalmond87basic71basil167bayleaf,lemon&whitewine98blackberry104caffeespresso142,143coffee142concordgrape160cranberry145ginger&lime156herb167hibiscusflower168lemon180mint167pear202pineapplesagegranita167plum208prune&earlgreytea212raspberry&cidervinegar216redbellpepper&blackpepper203redcurrant217rosemary167tequila232thyme167

GrapeJuiceLollies251GrapeNutsandHorlicksIceCream164GrapeJuiceSorbet160Grape,Muscat&WineSorbet162Grapefruit&CampariSorbet163GrapefruitSorbet162Grapefruit,Pimms&FreshMintSorbet164Grapefruit,PinkLollies251GrappaGranita165GreenTea&LemonLollies255GreenTeaIceCream232Guava&LimeSorbet165GuinnessIceCream166GumMasticGelato176HalvaIceCream166Hazelnut&ChocolateIceCream130HazelnutGelato167HerbGranitas167HerbSorbets167

Herb-InfusedSyrup275HibiscusFlowerGranita168HibiscusFlowerSorbet168HokeyPokeyIceCream168Honey&ToastedWalnutIceCream171Honey&WhiskyParfait239Honey,Apricot&YoghurtIce92HoneyIceCream170HoneycombToffee/Taffy282HorlicksandGrapeNutsIceCream164Hyssop&PeachIceCream199IcedFroth140IcedMontBlanc116INSTANTICESbanana242blackcherry242kiwi242melon242nectarine242peach243pineapple243strawberry243

ItalianGelato,Standard75ItalianMeringue284JackfruitSherbet171JapaneseRedBeanIceCream99JunketIceCream172KirSorbet172KiwiInstantIce242KiwiLollies251KiwiSorbet173KULFIbasic173mango175pistacio174quick175

LavenderSorbet177LavenderSyrup276Lemon&almondgelato87&bayleaf,whitewinegranita98&greentealollies255curdicecream178granita180grassicecream181icecream,cooked177icecream,uncooked178meringueicecream179

sorbet180sorbet,basil-flavoured183yoghurticecream179

LightLemon&SultanaSauce270Lime&GingerGranita156Lime&GuavaSorbet165Lime&LycheeSorbet186Lime&MintLollies252LimeSorbet182LOLLIESaftereightmints&milk249almond&milk246bailey’s&milk246bloodymary247blueberry&buttermilk248caramelsyrup&milk248cardamomkulfi-style248cider249coconutmilk&banana250coconutmilk249

instantcoffee&milk250darkrum&milklollies,254delmonico’s248drinkingchocolate249gin&tonic250greentea&lemon255kiwi251mango252mint&lime252orange252orgeat(almond)milk246pineapple253pinkgrapefruit251raspberry254sangrialollies254strawberry254strawberry&cream254vodka250watermelon255welch’sgrapejuice251

LiquoriceRooticecream184LiquoriceToffeeIceCream233LumpfishRoeSavouryIce111Lychee&LimeSorbet186MaiTaiSorbet186MangoLollies252MangoQuickKulfi175MangoSorbet187

MapleSyrup&PecanIceCream188MapleSyrupIceCream187MargueritaSorbet188MarmaladeIceCream189MarmaladeSauce270MarsBarIceCream131Mascarpone&StrawberryIceCream227Mascarpone,homemade228MasticGelatowithRosewater176MelonInstantIce242MelonSorbet189,190MeringueItalian284Meringues,theMotherofall283Microwavecustards78MicrowaveFrenchVanillaIceCreamwithEggs78MicrowaveFrenchVanillaIceCreamwithCornflour79MicrowaveVanillaGelatowithCornflour79MicrowaveVanillaGelatowithEggs79MilkChocolateSauce269MincemeatSauce,Fresh270Mint&blackcurrantsorbet105&limelollies252&peasavouryicecream199&rumsauce273candycaneicecream203cucumber&whitewinesorbet146flavouredsyrup276fresh&chocolateicecream128granita167grapefruit&pimmssorbet164icecream190icecreamwithblackcurrantripple190julepicecream191sorbet167

MorelloCherryIceCream115Moro’sYoghurtIceCream240MousseGlace140MrsMarshall’sVanillaIceCream236MulledWineSorbet239MuscatGrape&WineSorbet162MuscatWineSorbet192Nectarine&AmarettiIce192NectarineIceCream200NectarineInstantIce242NectarineSauce271NougatIceCream193NoyauSherbet193

Nut&SeedPralines/Brittles285NutellaGelato128OeufsenGlace109OliveOilGelato194Orangeblossomsorbet197icecream195icecreamwithfreshdates195lollies252seville(bitter)sorbet196sorbet196yoghurticecream197zest,candied,syrup276

OrgeatMilkLollies246PanforteGelato198PanettoneIceCream84PanettoneBakedAlaskaSummerVersion85PARFAITSalcohol71american303amaretto88brandy71chocolate121coffee144cointreau71parfaitauparmesan113parfaitsgeneral71mrsmarshall’sparmesanparfait113pernod71sherry71strega71whisky&honey239

ParmesanCheeseIceCream112PassionFruitSauce271PassionFruitSorbet198Paulo’sPineappleSorbet1204Paulo’sSorbet2206Pea&MintSavouryIceCream199Peach&HyssopIceCream199Peach&PralineIceCream200PeachInstantIce243PeachIceCream200PeachSauce271PeanutBrittleIceCream95PeanutBrittle&SourCreamIceCream224Peardried,icecream202granita202

icecream201sorbet202

Pecan&MapleSyrupIceCream188PedroXimenez&ChocolateGelato133PeppermintRockIceCream203PernodParfait71PhysalisSorbet204Pimms,Grapefruit&MintSorbet164PinIceCream150Pineappleinstantice243lollies253sagegranita167sagesorbet167sauce272sorbet1204sorbet2206

PinkGrapefruitLollies251Pippin&RosePetalIceCream90PistachioGelato207PistachioKulfi174PlumBlushIceCream208PlumGranita208PlumSorbet208PomegranateSorbet209PoncheálaRegence213PoppySeedGelato210Port&ChocolateGelato132Praline&PeachIceCream200Pralines&Brittles285PrinceofWalesIce229Prune&EarlGreyTeaGranita212Prune&EarlGreyTeaSorbet210Pumpkin,SpicedIceCream212PunchRegency213PunchRomaine213QuinceSorbet214Raspberry&cidervinegargranita216icecream214lollies254sauce272sorbet215spoom216

RedBellPepper&BlackPepperGranita203RedcurrantGranita217RedcurrantJellySauce272RegencyPunch213

RhubarbSorbet218Rhubarb,MarbledVanillaIceCream217RiceGelato,Roasted220RiceIceCream219RiceIceCreamwithRum-SoakedFruits219Rice,RoastedIceCream220RichFrenchVanillaIceCream72RicottaIceCream220Ripples269RockyRoad130RomainePunch213RosePetal&pippinicecream90icecream221sugar61

RosePouchongTeaSyrup274Rosemary&GooseberrySorbet159RosemaryGranita167RosemarySorbet167RosemarySyrup276Rosewater&MasticGelato176RosewaterSa’alab222RosewaterSorbet221Rum&BananaIcecream95Rum&Buttermilk&SultanaIceCream110Rum&EnglishToffeeIceCream233Rum&MilkLollies254Rum&MintSauce273RumSoakedFruits219RussianToffee&SourCreamIceCream224RussianToffeeSauce273Sa’alab221,222SaffronIceCream222SangriaLollies254SAUCESapricot266blackrum&mint273butterscotch267chocolatefudge268cidersauce269doublechocolate267freshmincemeat270hotblueberry266lightlemon&sultana270marmalade270milkchocolate269nectarine271passionfruit271

peach271pineapple272raspberry272redcurrantjelly272russiantoffee273sharpchocolate268strawberry272

ScentedGeraniumLeafIceCream154Seed&NutPralines&Brittles285SevilleOrangeSorbet196Sgroppino223SharpChocolatesauce268SHERBETSapricot&cardamom91blueberry&buttermilk106chocolate121jackfruit171noyau193

Sherry&dategelato148Sherryparfait71SORBETSangelica88apple&verbena89apricot92basic71basil167basil-flavouredlemon182bellini201bitterorange196blackberry104blackcurrantwithmint105caipirinha112cantaloupemelon189charentaismelon190cider136citrus136clementine137concordgrape160cranberry146cucumber,whitewine&mint146delmonico’s149earlgreytea231eggcandy151elderberry152elderflower152freshmuscatgrape&wine162freshtomato&basil234freshlybrewedcoffee144

galiamelon190gin&tonic155gooseberry&rosemary159grapefruit&campari163grapefruit162grapefruit,pimms&freshmint164guava&lime165herb167hibiscusflower168instantcoffee144kir172kiwisorbetlavender177lemon180lime182lychee&lime186maitai186mango187marguerita188melonsorbet189,190mint167mulledwine239muscatwine192orange196orangeblossom197passionfruit198paulo’spineapple1204paulo’spineapple2206pear202physalis204pineapple1204pineapple2206pineapplesage167plum208pomegranate209prune&earlgreytea210quince214raspberry215rhubarb218rosemary167rosewater221sevilleorange196sorbettodicanditad’uova151strawberry226tamarind230thyme167vodka&tonic155

SourCream&DamsonIceCream147SourCreamIceCreamwithPeanutBrittle224

SourCreamIceCreamwithRussianToffee224SourCreamIceCream223SoyaMilkGelato224SPOOMraspberry216strawberry227summerpudding230

SpiceBiscuit&ChocolateIceCream129SpicedPumpkinIceCream212StandardFrenchVanillaIceCream72StandardItalianVanillaGelato75StemGinger&SyrupIceCream156StiltonCheeseCream,Frozen225StracciatellaGelato126Strawberry&raspberrylollies254&creamlollies254&mascarponeicecream227creamice226gelato225icecream226icecreamflavouredwith

balsamicvinegar228instantice243sauce272sorbet226sorbet&framboiseice-creamring261spoom227

StregaParfait71SugarGlass286SugarIceCream108,229SummerPuddingSpoom230SYRUPScandiedorangezestwith276caramelsyrup247herb-infused275lavender276mint-flavoured276rosepouchongtea274rosemary276strongcoffee275sugarsyrup70

TamarindSorbet230Tea231,274TeaSorbet,EarlGrey231TeaSyrup274Tea,EarlGrey&PruneGranita212Tea,EarlGrey&PruneSorbet210

Tea,EarlGreyGelato231Tea,GreenIceCream232TequilaGranita232Terry’sChocolateOrangeIceCream122ThymeGranita167ThymeSorbet167TobaccowithChocolateGelato133Toffee,English&RumIceCream233Toffee,EnglishIceCream233Toffee,LiquoriceIceCream233Tomato&BasilSorbet234TomatoIceCream,Savoury234Tortoni,BiscuitIceCream100,102TruffleIceCream235Tulipes280Tuiles,Almond278UltimateChocolateIceCream120Vanillagelato79gelato,microwave79icecreammarbledwithrhubarb217icecreamrichfrench72icecream,easyno-cookphiladelphia236icecream,frenchstandard72icecream,french,microwave78icecream,french,microwavecornflour79icecream,mrsmarshalls236icecream,softscoop237icecream,wellbehaved238sugar61

Vodka&TonicSorbet155VodkaLollies250WaferBiscuits278Wafers,IceCream277WalnutBrittle,Chinese,IceCream238Walnut,Toasted&HoneyIceCream171WatermelonLollies255Werther’sIceCream240Whisky&HoneyParfait239WhiteChocolateIceCream134WhiteChocolateIceCreamwithSourCherries135WhiteChocolateIceCreamwithToastedAlmonds135WhiteCoffeeGelato141WhiteWine,Lemon&BayLeafGranita98Wine,MulledSorbet239Wine,MuscatSorbet192Yoghurt&orangeicecream197

bananaice96honey&apricotice92moro’sicecream240

ZabaglioneParfait71ZabaglioneGelato242