Hydroxide RelaxersTypes of Hydroxide Relaxers

and the Chemical Process

Hydroxide Relaxers Hair Relaxer is a product

used to permanently straighten naturally curly hair.

Active ingredient in all hydroxide relaxers is hydroxide ions.

Hydroxide Relaxers are highly alkaline, ranging from 12-14 on the Ph scale.

Hydroxide Relaxers are most commonly used in the

salon.

Types of Hydroxide RelaxersActive Ph

Market Positive Negative

Sodium

Hydroxide

12.5-13.5

No-Mix

Lye

Effective for curly hair

Scalp irritations

Hair damage

Lithium &

Potassium

Hydroxide

12.5 – 13.5

No-Mix

Lye

Effective for curly hair

Scalp irritations Hair damage

Guanidine

Hydroxide

13 -13.5

No Lye Less irritation

Could dry hair

Phases in Hair Relaxing Chemical Change- Begins as

soon as relaxer is applied to hair. A complete change occurs in the composition of the hair.

Physical Change- Is smoothing the hair, and rinsing the hair. It is a change in the state of matter.

Chemical Hair Straightening Process Overview

1. Apply Relaxer: Both H and S bonds hold polypeptide chains in curly position.

2. Process: All H bonds are broken, most S bonds are broken. Hair begins to relax.

3. Neutralize: Polypeptide chains are in straight position. New hair structure is harden.

4. Rinse and Condition: New cross links form, resulting in straight hair.

Chemical Changes in Relaxers

In the relaxer process, chemical changes occur, breaking and reforming the structure of hair bonds.

Hydroxide ions breaks disulfide bonds by acidic hydrogen atoms next to the sulfur atoms.

Once hydrogen bonds have been broken, it can never be reform. Instead lanthionine bonds are formed.

Lanthionization Process During the chemical

process, (chemical change) Hydroxide Relaxers breaks the disulfide bonds differently than Thio Relaxers.

Hydroxide Relaxers removes one atom of sulfur, making it a lanthionine bond in a process call lanthionization.

Hydroxide Neutralizers Neutralizers reforms the

bonds into a straight pattern. The hydroxide relaxers

deactivates and neutralizes the alkaline left in the hair.

A neutralizing shampoo must be used following the rinse to normalize the Ph of the hair.

Some neutralizer have built-in color indicators that signals when the hair has returned to a normal Ph.

Sodium Hydroxide Relaxers- (NaOH) Sodium Hydroxide is

the most commonly used relaxer on the market.

Also called Lye Relaxer.

Hair can swell more than twice its size.

Use as packaged, no mixing required.

Lithium and Potassium Hydroxide Relaxers Sometimes advertised as “no-

lye” relaxers, which can be very misleading.

Products are also highly corrosive and extreme damage can still occur.

The chemistry and performance of the relaxer is very similar to sodium hydroxide relaxers.

Hydroxide ion is active ingredient, making it also incompatible with thio permanents and relaxers.

Guanidine Hydroxide Relaxers Also advertised as “no-lye”

relaxer. Contents of product must be

mixed, (cream and liquid). Cream contains calcium

hydroxide. Liquid contains guanidine

carbonate. Will not straighten effectively

unless mixed correctly and equal porportions.

Recommended for sensitive scalps and usually sold for home use.

Two Types of Relaxer Formulas Base Formula- Requires

the application of petroleum cream to scalp for protection against skin irritations. Applied before relaxer product.

No-Base Formula- Base cream is already in relaxer, which melts at body temperature. Provides thin oily protective coating for scalp.

Hair Relaxer Strengthens Relaxers are marketed

and categorized by the strength of the product.

Chemically, the strength depends on the amount hydroxide ions are present in the product.

Relaxer Strengths Mild- Formulated for

fine, color-treated, or slightly damaged hair.

Regular- Recommended for normal hair with medium curl.

Super- Intended for coarse hair that is extremely curly.

Conclusion Hydroxide Relaxer are highly caustic and can

cause extreme damage to hair. Professionalism and safety must be used.

Relaxers come in different types, strengths, bases, and ingredients. Selection of which relaxer to use must be analyzed with care.

Hydroxide Relaxers are NOT COMPATIABLE with Thio Relaxers. Extreme damage could occur.

Works Cited www.wikipedia.com Milady’s Standard

Textbook, copyright 2004

Hair Structure and Chemistry Simplified, John Halal, copyright 2009