hudson valley wine magazine fall 2012

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COMPLIMENTARY HUDSON VALLEY A resource guide to the valley’s wines and wineries WINE WINE TM 2012 SUMMER/FALL INSIDE: Making Wine & Music In and Around the Hudson Valley PLUS: Cassis Distilleries & Breweries

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Summer/Fall Issue of the Hudson Valley Wine Magazine

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Page 1: Hudson Valley Wine Magazine Fall 2012

COMPLIMENTARY

HUDSON VALLEY

A r e s o u r c e g u i d e t o t h e v a l l e y ’ s w i n e s a n d w i n e r i e s

WINEWINETM

2012SUMMER / FA L L

INSIDE: Making Wine& MusicIn and Around the Hudson Valley

PLUS: Cassis

Distilleries &Breweries

Page 2: Hudson Valley Wine Magazine Fall 2012

Choices. It’s a word that’s on everyone’s mind this Fall,and one that’s so overused in an election year. Turn onthe TV or your computer at just about any time of dayand you’ll be faced with a multitude of options. Andthese days it seems we are faced with more commercialsthan ever before, and with that comes a staggeringnumber of choices to be made. (And not just duringcampaign season!) Sure, we’ve always had choices in thekind of food we eat, the type of clothes we buy, theplaces we shop, and the products we use, but now we arealso faced with making decisions about who to “friend’or not “friend” on Facebook. We have to decide what’sworth tweeting about, what we pin on Pinterest, andwhat we blog about. Day in and day out, we’re facedwith so many choices it’s surprising we manage to wadethrough all the clutter.

This is one of the reasons why we love being in theHudson Valley. The choices seem much simpler here.Healthy, locally-grown produce? Farm-to-table dining?We got it. Alternatives to the big-box store brands?Definitely. There are plenty of artisanal products tochoose from. The same holds true for beverages. Haveyou noticed what’s on the shelves of your favorite wineshop lately? There are literally hundreds, if not thousandsof brands from all over the world to choose from. NowI’m not saying that every purchase has to be a locally-made product, but it certainly narrows down the choiceswhen you hit the “local” section. And thankfully, afterfive years of publishing Hudson Valley Wine Magazine, weare finally starting to see more Hudson Valley wine andbeverage choices on the shelves and on restaurant menus.And why not? The quality is constantly improving, thewines are gaining more recognition outside the region,ratings are higher, and chefs and bar owners are takingnotice. Not only are Hudson Valley wines winning majorawards and garnering industry accolades, but the region’sdistilleries and breweries are also making great strides inthe marketplace.

There’s a choice in just about everything you do in life,so why not make it simple? Make a conscious choice to support our local producers – they are artisans andcraftspeople making quality products. And they arepeople who have chosen to make the Hudson Valley part of their life.

This season, enjoy your local options. And yes, pleasechoose to like us on Facebook!

Cheers!

Linda PierroManaging Editor

WELCOME CONTRIBUTORS

J. Stephen Casscles (Grapes of the HudsonValley) is a long-time local vintner and viticul-turist, and as counsel and member of the StateSenate Task Force for Hudson Valley FruitGrowers was responsible for several ground-breaking laws on viticulture. Casscles’forthcoming “Grapes of the Hudson Valley”(Flint Mine Press) is a definitive volume on

regional varietals culled from decades of personal tasting notes andexperience. He is currently a winemaker for Hudson-ChathamWinery in Ghent.

Josyane Colwell (The Convival Table), theProvençal-born founder and executive chef ofLe Moulin Event Planning & Catering inIrvington, NY offers worldly sensibilities aboutfood, presentation and ambiance. Clients suchas ABC, Vera Wang, Victoria’s Secret and theNational Trust for Historic Preservation haveenjoyed her French delectables and white gloveaffairs. www.lemoulincatering.com

Wendy Crispell, WSET Advanced Certificate,Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW), (Wine-ing aWhey) is a wine and cheese specialist based inboth the Hudson Valley and NYC. She writes a blog, sassysips.com, and instructs weekly wineand cheese classes aboard the motor yachtManhattan, as well as at private and corporatetasting events. www.wendycrispellwine.com

Debbie Gioquindo Certified Travel Counselor(CTC), Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW), Wine Location Specialist (WLS) (Wine CountryTravel) is a wine blogger and educator, alsoknown as the Hudson Valley Wine Goddess.Debbie is owner of Exclusive Wine Vacations and co-creator of Happy Bitch Wines.www.hvwinegoddess.com

Yvette Perry (Making Wine & Music) is a longtimerock ’n’ roll music-marketer who negotiatedcorporate sponsorship campaigns for majorrecording artists; she also nabbed a GRAMMYnomination for the New York Philharmonic’sSweeney Todd. A voting member of the GRAMMYAwards, she is also a classically trained flutist. Herlove of wine was influenced at a young age by her

French father; Yvette has fond memories of flying back from Paris as a16-year-old with a 1927 Chateau d’Yquem in her bag…a story for another day.

Michael Taiani (Ty’s Take-Away), aka “Ty theWine Guy,” is a food and wine consultant,columnist, marketer and CEO/Owner of WinesBy The Glass Enterprises and Marketing Corp.,a multi-functional firm based in the HudsonValley. Assisting people with food and wine ishis mission. Find Ty on Facebook and atwww.tytwg.comD

ominick Fiorille

Page 3: Hudson Valley Wine Magazine Fall 2012

www.hvwinemag.com • Summer/Fall 2012 1

I N S I D E

ADvERTISINg INquIRIES:Contact us at [email protected] or call 518-731-1332.

SuBSCRIPTIONS:For rates, email us at [email protected]

EDITORIAL CONTRIBuTIONS:We invite ideas for articles, photographs, letters and other contributions from readers. Please write us at theaddress below or email [email protected]. Any manuscript or artwork submitted by mail should be accompanied by a self-addressed stamped envelope if you would like it returned. HVW is not responsible for the return or loss of submissions.

CONTACT US:Hudson Valley Wine MagazinePO Box 353, Coxsackie, NY 12051Phone: 518 731 1332Email: [email protected]

VISIT US AT: www.hvwinemag.com

HUDSON VALLEY WINETM Magazine is published semi-annually by Flint Mine Press, a division of Flint Mine Group, llc. ©2012 Flint Mine Group, llc. All rights reserved.Hudson Valley Wine is a trademark of Flint Mine Group, llc.Material may not be reproduced in whole or in part in any form without written permission. The magazineassumes no responsibility to return unsolicited material. No statement in this publication is to be construed as arecommendation. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions.

Remember to drink responsibly.

HUDSON VALLEY

WINEWINEMAGAZ INE

TM

HUDSON VALLEYWINETM

Volume 5 Issue 2 Summer/Fall 2012

ROBERT BEDFORD

EXECUTIVE EDITOR

LINDA PIERROMANAGING EDITOR / DESIGN DIRECTOR

CHERYL ELKINSADVERTISING SALES

J. STEPHEN CASSCLESVITICULTURAL CONSULTANT

PHOTOS: Courtesy Warwick Valley Winery & Distillery (top);Millbrook Vineyards & Winery (bottom)

58 Wine-Friendly Farm Markets

61 The Convivial Table by Josyane Colwell

62 Seedlings...

66 Wine Country Travel by Debbie Gioquindo, CTC,CSW, WLS

72 Ty’s Take-Away by Michael “Ty the Wine Guy” Taiani

Wineries, Distilleries & Breweries NEW!

Making Wine & MusicIn and Around the Hudson Valleyby Yvette Perry

13-57

Grapes of the Hudson Valley:Currantsby J. Stephen Casscles

8

Wine-ing a Wheyby Wendy Crispell, CSW, WSET

11

3

Printed by Vanguard Printing, an FSC Certified Printer

Page 4: Hudson Valley Wine Magazine Fall 2012
Page 5: Hudson Valley Wine Magazine Fall 2012

Good wine and great music just gotogether. They are two of life’s great-est pleasures. Wine contributes to

our enjoyment of music. And it can also besaid that music contributes to our enjoy-ment of wine. Each enhances the other.Emotionally, they both move us to feelmore, to feel deeper, to feel differently, and to feel better.

Wine and music are found in every knownculture, dating back to the earliest civiliza-tions and on to the present time. Bothhaving developed into fundamental com-ponents of human life, they are culturalground-breakers which have historicallyaffected mankind in divergent waysthroughout the centuries. Then, as now,they share common traits: creativity, emo-tional resonance, and cultural relevance.

THE ARTISTIC PROCESS A culture’s music is influenced by socialand economic factors, climate, and accessto technology. Varying by region and timeperiod are the emotions and ideas that apiece of music conveys and the situationsin which that music is played and heard.Much the same could be said of wine mak-ing. Both are works of art in their ownright where the creative progression withits interplay of nuances results in some-thing truly magical and unique. Both aremediums where the sum is greater than itsindividual parts, where the end product is

the culmination of an artistic process.One can make the argument that the passion for good wine and the passion formusic come from a similar place inside us.Both can affect or reflect the way we arefeeling. Just as a song can make us feel bet-ter, a glass of wine can fill our senses, liftour spirits, and nurture our souls. Bothprovide us with a channel for cherishedmemories and each affects us personallyand in different ways. What’s a good wine?What’s a good song? Simply, it’s the one we like. With a piece of music it may be amelody, the words, or the groove that grabsyou. With a wine it may be the flavors,complexity, or elegance that does the same.

Before we go any further, let’s take amoment to appreciate the plentiful pres-ence of wines in the songs we know andlove. Wine has been a longtime subject forsongwriters. Search popular artists’ lyricsand you will discover myriad references tothe wonders of wine. Okay, so maybe alco-hol is somewhat intrinsically associatedwith rock ’n’ roll – maybe it’s even a sourceof inspiration. It has been mentioned insongs of every type of genre and theyreflect every type of emotion. There aresongs that are happy, silly, romantic, sad,and really, really sad. Which song makesyou happy? Which one reminds you ofthat lost love? Think about your ownfavorites as you check out the lyrics in thesongs noted here.

In and Around the Hudson ValleyYvette Perry

The beauty and serenity of the Hudson River and its surrounding environs has been a longtimesource of inspiration for artists of all types. Attend any tasting any weekend at most wineries hereand you will most likely be met with the popular pairing of wine and music. Come Friday, one canfind an abundance of wine and music events listed on the websites and blogs of the various wineriesin the region. Walking around beautiful grounds while sipping from a glass of wine – who doesn’tenjoy listening to music while tasting the latest Riesling or Cab Franc at their favorite Hudson Valleywinery? This got us thinking: why is the pairing of music and wine such a natural connection?

SONGS OF WINEJoy to the World by Three Dog Night“Jeremiah was a bull frog.Was a good friend of mine.Never understood a single word he said,but he always had some mighty fine wine”

Two-Step by Dave Matthews“Hey, my love, you came to me like wine comes to the mouthGrown tired of water all the timeYou quench my heartAnd love, you quench my mind”

Pride and Joy by Stevie Ray Vaughan“Well I love my baby like the finest wineStick with her until the end of time”

Red, Red Wineby Neil Diamond, as recorded by UB40 “Red, red wine, you make me feel so fineYou keep me rocking all of the timeRed, red wine, you make me feel so grand,I feel a million dollars when you’re just in my hand”

A Bottle of Wine and Patsy Clineby k.d. lang“When I’m falling to pieces, going crazy,With a heart that just won’t mend,A bottle of wine and Patsy Cline,And I get by again”

Scenes from an Italian Restaurant by Billy Joel“A bottle of white, a bottle of red,Perhaps a bottle of rosé instead.We’ll get a table near the streetIn our old familiar placeYou and I, face to face”

Good Friend and a Glass of Wineby Leann Rimes“A good friend and a glass of wineSomeone to say it's gonna be alrightA good friend and a glass of wineA little pick me up to get me through the night”

MAKING WINE & MUSIC

www.hvwinemag.com • Summer/Fall 2012 3

Page 6: Hudson Valley Wine Magazine Fall 2012

THE BUSINESS OF WINE & MUSICAs wine retailer and music festival organiz-er Peter Eastlake states, “There are a lot ofwine-loving musicians.” In today’s culture,with so many high-profile celebrities andentertainers, it is perhaps fitting that wineis being made by musicians who drawfrom these wells of fruit as they do cher-ished lyrics. Artists who created imprintsinto our souls through music are nowdoing the same with their wines.

Winemaking has become a second love tosome of today’s most prominent melodymakers and is shaping the culture tasteful-ly. The trend of celebrities owning wineriesand vineyards is not a recent phenomenon.In ancient Greek and Roman times, theleading philosophers, playwrights, politi-cians, and generals often owned a vineyardfor personal use. There are many reasonswhy celebrities gravitate to the world ofwine. It’s an investment. It offers the life-long wine enthusiast an entrée to the wine industry. It’s the challenge of a newenterprise. And some leverage their namerecognition as a selling tool in the wineindustry. Today celebrity-owned wineries are a lucrative business; and many musi-

cians are bridging the gap between rock ’n’ roll and a generation of sophisticatedconnoisseurs eager for the two art forms to converge.

Prophetic are the words from Bob Dylan’sindelible hit, “All Along the Watchtower”:“Businessmen they drink my wine, Plowmendig my earth / None of them along the lineknow what any of it is worth.” For the mostpart, musician winemakers do not seem tobe in the business to make a profit; rather,they seem to be more interested in creatinga beautiful product and doing so in sus-tainable and communal ways. Some havechosen to remain behind the scenes, whileothers are more visible. And in all cases,they treat the art of winemaking in exactlythe same spirit as they do their songwritingcraft. Either owning a winery or partneringwith well-known vintners, well-knownmusicians across every genre have gotteninto the wine business. So what’s the driving force?

For singer/songwriter Dave Matthews,known for his commitment to organicfarming (he’s been on the board of FarmAid since 2001), it’s being able to maintain sustainable agricultural practices at his ownBlenheim Vineyards. A native of Virginia,

he purchased the Charlottesville, VA, farmin 1999. A year later the first planting wasestablished and the winery now maintains16 acres of grapes which include Viognier,Chardonnay, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc,Syrah and Mourvedre. Much like his laid-back style of music, Matthews maintainsminimal environmental impact throughoutthe winery, the tasting room, and in thewine production process.

There is Fred Smith, who was the originalbassist with Blondie. Then he left to joinTelevision. Then he played with TheRoches, Willie Nile, Tom Verlaine, and The Fleshtones. The constant in his lifetoday is playing with Television, and asmall winery in Bloomington in theHudson Valley, where he and his wife,Paula Cereghino, are handcrafting winewith an Old World approach, using grapes sourced from small growers.

Of the connection between wine andmusic, Fred says, “I love them both andfeel very fortunate to have careers in twothings that I’m passionate about.” Fred isthe first to tell you his background in winemainly comes from touring Europe as amusician, gaining exposure to fine winesfrom generous promoters and wine-savvyEnglish roadies. An homage to his art and profession, Cereghino Smith makes a Rock ’N Roll Red blend that features on the label their friends, Tish and SnookyBellomo – sisters, singers, and founders of Manic Panic.

Even former rock business managers RZOhave partnered with the Mendocino WineCompany of California with the goal toproduce great tasting, quality wines thatare inspired by rock classics. Among theirmany “Official Wines of Rock ’n’ Roll” are: Pink Floyd’s The Dark Side of the MoonCabernet Sauvignon; The Rolling Stones’Forty Licks Merlot; Grateful Dead ‘StealYour Face’ Red Wine Blend; and WoodstockChardonnay. Each has beautiful artwork onthe front label with back labels resemblingthe back of the album jacket. As it says onthe label, “Pop the Cork, Turn up the Tunesand enjoy the taste of WinesThat Rock.”

ROCK STARS who love THEIR WINE

4 HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer/Fall 2012

✮ Mötley Crüe’s front man VinceNeil appreciates fine wine as his10,000-case production of VinceVineyards’ Napa Valley CabernetSauvignon and SonomaChardonnay attests.

✮ Carlos Santana’s sparkling wineis bottled under Mumm Napa’sDVX label. Carlos views this col-laboration as “symbolizing how hismusic and Mumm sparkling wineare bookmarks in people’s lives.”

✮ Sting’s 15th century Tuscanyestate, Tenuta il Palagio, producesorganic and biodynamic grapesused in his Casino delle Vie, andSister Moon wines. Elaboratingupon the role he plays, Sting says, “I have a job in the winery, I go down and play to thewine…And you know, if I play ittrue, the wine is better.”

✮ Fleetwood Mac’s Mick Fleetwoodlaunched his first wine in 2004,under his Mick Fleetwood Private Cellar collection, a blendof Cabernet Franc and Merlotgrapes. Fleetwood himself attrib-utes his love of wine to anothersongwriter, Al Stewart (“Year of

the Cat”), who introduced him tothe matching of food and wine.

✮ Bob Dylan’s Planet Waves signature label produces a blendof Montepulciano and Merlotgrapes grown by Fattoria LeTerrazze winery in Italy.

✮ Boz Scaggs makes French-stylewines in his certified-organicScaggs Vineyard, in Napa Valley,CA. Of merging his music with hiswine, “I’ve been reluctant to tie thetwo worlds together…I didn’t want(the wine brand) to be consideredjust another celebrity rendering…I believe the wine can stand on its own.”

✮ Rock and Roll Hall of FamersAC/DC teamed up with Australianwinery, Warburn Estate, to pro-duce Highway to Hell CabernetSauvignon and You Shook Me AllNight Long Moscato.

✮ Madonna (in collaboration withher father) has Ciccone Vineyardand Winery in Michigan.

✮ Fergie has her own family vine-yard and brand of wine, FergusonCrest, in Santa Barbara, CA.

Page 7: Hudson Valley Wine Magazine Fall 2012

THE WINERY EFFECTWine tasting at a winery is no longerabout just tasting wines. Music now playsan integral part of the event. What mayhave begun as background music has flour-ished in recent years to a groundswell ofwholesale concert series! And they includewineries small and large, local and nation-ally recognized. Conviction and passion –both are on display by vineyard ownersproducing wines and presenting music.From discovering a local band to hearingworld-renowned artists, there is somethingfor every musical taste. Pun intended.

This couldn’t be more true than here inthe Hudson Valley. Many of the wineries’websites announce it right there on theirhome page: “Live music every weekend.”And on the events page, you will find thelist of open mic nights, concerts, andmusic festivals – a seemingly endless sea of music and wine to be savored.

The VintnersAt the forefront is Palaia Vineyards, aworking farm in the Hudson Valley forover 200 years, and now home to over tenacres of vineyards, where the “Treehouse”and the “Sweet Clover Room” serve asmusic venues. Of her vineyards, owner JanPalaggi told us, “it has turned into one ofthe Hudson Valley’s better music venues

thanks to the incredible talent that is inthe area and comes to play here. We aremusicians, and so have a great respect forother musicians and try to make playinghere a good experience for them . . . Theguys who work in the vineyard bringmusic out with them, and even when weare bottling the wine there is music play-ing in the cellar. We play it outside so youcan hear it from the picnic area . . . Musicis everywhere here. It is a part of who weare.” Palaia’s open mic night is one of theirmost popular attractions. Of special note,Jermaine Paul, the R&B/soul singer andsongwriter who was the winner of the second season of NBC’s “The Voice” andwho was born and raised in the HudsonValley, was one of Palaia’s famous musical

guests on open mic night, rocking thehouse with his incredible R&B vocals.

But open mic night is just the beginningat Palaia Vineyards. Both indoors and outside throughout the year they host aBeatles Tribute, an Allman Brothers BandTribute, a Neil Young Tribute, a “Woodstock”festival, “Rick Larrimore IS Rod Stewart!,”and Patrick Perone as “ELVIS!.” If thisdoesn’t illustrate Palaia’s committment tomusic, you need another glass of wine.

Depending on your mood, you can take injust about any genre of music at almostany winery, on any given weekend. From a capella harmonies to urban folk to classiccovers, you’ll find free live music in thecourtyard every weekend at BrotherhoodWinery. At Bashakill Vineyards you’ll hearperformances by some of the region’sfavorite rockers every Saturday night.

Warwick Valley Winery also rocks with aseries of events like the Watkins GlenRevisited Festival, and with musical tributesto some of their favorite icons, includingBob Dylan and The Grateful Dead. Theyalso host “Black and Blues Weekends,” featuring well-known “Saturday Blues”bands such as the Midnight Street Shakersand Chris (“Prince of Blues”) Beard. On“Black Sunday,” performers such as TimO’Donohue and The Whiskey Sinners,pay homage to the life and music ofJohnny Cash.

Robibero Winery likes to mix it up mostevery weekend with a range of musicalstyles by guest performers. They feature a Jazz Fest, a Sangria Fest, and, of course,“Winestock – 1 Day of Peace, Music &Wine,” where you can relive the experience

PHOTOS: (left column) Rick Larrimore, the “ultimate” Rod Stewart tribute at Palaia Vineyards; (right column, top)Bud & Budd ~ The Kind Buds at Warwick Valley Winery’s Grateful Dead Fest; (bottom) Jammin’ at RobiberoFamily Winery’s annual Winestock festival.

A SIGN OF THE TIMES Posters announcing some of the musical tributes at Hudson Valley wineries (from top to bottom):Three days of live music at Warwick Valley Winery & Distillery’s annual Bob Dylan Tribute; Reliving the experience of Woodstock at Robibero FamilyWinery’s Winestock event; the annual Neil YoungTribute Festival at Palaia Vineyards which raisesmoney for cancer research.

Page 8: Hudson Valley Wine Magazine Fall 2012

6 HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer/Fall 2012

of Woodstock with some of the region’smost notable cover bands.

If you’re in the mood for blues or jazz, the Hudson Valley wineries offer that, too. In addition to free music in the courtyard every Saturday and Sunday,Applewood Winery features a “BBQ &Blues Experience” in August. At MillbrookVineyards, their “Jazz at the VineyardGrille” series runs all summer long, capping off with a “Once in a Blue MoonBlues Concert & BBQ,” featuring theregion’s well-known Blue In Green JazzQuartet. Brookview Station Winery hosts“Wine, Women & Song” wine and cheeseparties and books multiple bands for their annual “Apple Festival” each Fall. Or plan a trip to Benmarl Winery or Hudson-Chatham Winery during theirSangria Fests, and you will enjoy authenticFlamenco guitar music complete withsinging, dancing, and palmas (handclaps).Live music resounds throughout the win-ery and vineyards during Benmarl’s AnnualHarvest and Grape Stomping Festivals, too. And the list goes on . . .

The MusiciansHard-rockingbandleaders,musical groups,touring musi-cians, solo artistsand acoustic folktroubadours –the region hasno shortage oftalented, hard-working musicians that play at thewineries. You might even catch some of thesame Hudson Valley favorites playing atdifferent winery events – musicians likeMarc Von Em, Al Westphal, Sarah Morr,and Jack Higgins of Mud Belly, and groupslike The Brian Dougherty Band andMichael Patrick’s Ring of Fire Band, areamong the many.

One such Hudson Valley favorite son isMatt Turk. He has toured the world and

shared the stage with Bob Dylan, PeteSeeger, Norah Jones, The Dave MatthewsBand, and The Doobie Brothers, to namea few. Asked about his connection to wineand why he likes to perform at HudsonValley wineries, Turk replied: “Wine andmusic are two of the finest and most necessary ingredients in a good life. Theyare an ultimate elixir for conversation, theenjoyment of food, friendship, and love.They both access essential components of the human spirit that are sometimeshidden.” The wineries, he says, “are gather-ing places. . . Folks come from near and farto walk beautiful grounds and enjoy the serenity of where wine is made. I enjoy the atmosphere – they are down-to-earthplaces, filled with energy .. . a fabulous environment for live music.” We agree.

A MELODIOUS MATCHThe melding of the two worlds constitutesa new form of entertainment. The newcultural landscape is created from a blendof the things we love. And the pairing of

wine and music is one example of a mod-ern touchstone. This current trend isengaging precisely because together theyencompass all the elements that these audiences and customers prize: productsthat speak to them, that touch their souls,their emotions, and affect their moods;they speak to their desire to do good, to beenvironmentally aware, and conservationconscious; they bestow sharing, friendship,and happiness; and they provide a sourceof stylish entertainment that seems newand fresh and timely.

Do songs inspire wine drinking? Check.Do roaring guitar licks make you want to pour a glass of Cabernet? Check. Doyou reach for a mellow Merlot when you’relistening to Al Green or Van Morrison?Does some Joni Mitchell call for a contem-plative Baco Noir? Check and check. Justwitness the various musical genres that areperformed at winery events throughout theHudson Valley wineries – all ages enjoytheir favorite music. And all enjoy theirfavorite Hudson Valley wine.

THE SCIENCE OF HARMONY & TASTENot convinced yet? According to a major study, there is also scientific evidence that it makessense to relate wine to music. In fact, scientists confirm that the various smells associatedwith wine evoke strikingly similar musical associations in test subjects.

Understanding the working of the thalamus in the midbrain and the nature of stimuli, we canidentify something as “harmonious”: Which music goes with which wine? By learning to be assensitive to the mood of a wine as to the mood of a piece of music, we can tell happy musicfrom sad, angry, or romantic, leading scientists to suggest that playing a certain type of musiccan also enhance the way wine tastes.

One of California’s most widely respected winemakers, Clark Smith, also a wine writer, consultant and educator, has, in recent years become increasingly interested in the study ofthe relationship of wine and music cognition, and believes wine preferences can be stronglyinfluenced by music. “We associate different wine types with different moods, just as we dowith music. When the wine and the music match, both improve. When they clash, it can beawful,” he says. When the wine and the music share the same mood, they complement eachother, “. . . in particular, wines taste smoother, whereas when it’s a mismatch, they can tasteharsh and astringent.”

To further determine the impact that music has on how wine tastes, Professor Adrian Northfrom the Heriot-Watt University in Edinburgh in a recent study on Wine & Song: The Effect ofBackground Music on the Taste of Wine, offered taste tests to 250 students who sampled aCabernet Sauvignon or Chardonnay while listening to four types of music: Carmina Buranaby Orff (powerful and heavy), Waltz of the Flowers from The Nutcracker by Tchaikovsky (subtleand refined), Just Can’t Get Enough by Nouvelle Vague (zingy and refreshing) and SlowBreakdown by Michael Brook (mellow and soft). The research is based on the theory of “cognitive priming,” which holds that certain styles of music stimulate certain parts of thebrain. When wine is tasted, these areas are already active and have a correspondingeffect on our perceptions of taste. And the results: Cabernet Sauvignon was most affect-ed by “powerful and heavy” music and Chardonnay by “zingy and refreshing” sounds.

Professor North deemed the results could lead retailers to put music recommendationson their wine bottles, “Wine manufacturers could recommend that while drinking a certain wine, you should listen to a certain sort of music.” In fact, the pairing of the right song with a specific wine has become a very popular aspect of the wine andmusic industry.

Read “What the Science Says” about music to drink wine by on www.hvwinemag.com

PHOTOS: (top) Performers at Millbrook Vineyard’s “Jazzat the Vineyard Grille” series; (bottom) Musician MattTurk, a regular at Hudson Valley winery music festivals.

Page 9: Hudson Valley Wine Magazine Fall 2012
Page 10: Hudson Valley Wine Magazine Fall 2012

New York State was once the leading commercial producer of currants in the U.S., which could befound in everything from jams and preserves to syrupand Cassis wine and liqueurs. While production ofcurrants in New York declined significantly in thetwentieth century, currants and cassis are making a resurgence to gain their rightful prominent place in Hudson Valley culture.

Currants, in red, white and black varieties, arenative to central and northern European coun-tries. These very winter-hardy plants eventuallymade their way into family gardens in France,

England, Germany and Austria, so that by the mid-sixteenth century, the red and white varieties were beingimported from Europe to the colonies in New York andthe New England for cultivation.

Officially, currants are a fruit-bearing shrub, classified aspart of the genus of plants known as Ribes. This familyincludes red and white currants (Ribes rubrum, R.sativum, and R. petraeum), and black currants (Ribesnigrum), all of which were cultivated in northern Europe.Red and white currants grow on strands or clusters thatrange from two to five inches long, while black currantsgrow on much shorter stemmed clusters of about threeto five berries. The currant berry is about the size of asmall-to-medium sized blueberry. Currants ripen at a time of year when other fruits are scarce – they bud inthe early spring and their crop is often harvested rightafter the Fourth of July. Just like grapes and fruit trees,currants must be pruned early before budding so thatthey can bear a suitable crop.

Currants are by nature northern plants and they thrive incooler climates, which is why they are extensively grownin northern and central Europe, in countries such asGermany, Poland and Russia. In North America, theygrow well in New York, New England, Michigan, andCanada. The deciduous bushes can reach up to five feettall and are just as wide, and prefer heavy, damp, richclay to loam soils that retain moisture; they like morningsun and afternoon part-shade so that their leaves do not scorch.

In the U.S., currants – red, white and black – have tradi-tionally been used to make jams, jellies, preserves, pies,tarts, sauces to accompany meats, and yes, alcoholicbeverages such as cassis, liqueurs, and wines (more on

that to come). In early America currants were deemed tohave medicinal properties (they are, in fact, high in vita-min C and other antioxidants), so they were also used inhome remedies and elixirs of all sorts.

Currants in the Hudson ValleyIn the early part of the twentieth century, according toagricultural census information, New York State rankedfirst in the production of red currants, with a good per-centage being grown in the Hudson Valley. Approximately2,671 acres of red and white currants were grown in NewYork in 1919, however, due to a destructive blight thataffected currants from 1891 to 1913, the acreage gradu-ally declined to 1,306 acres in 1929, 540 acres in 1954,and only 393 acres in 1959. After that, red and white cur-rants became a “specialty crop” that was only grown inChautauqua County, and the fruit growing areas of theHudson Valley.

Historically, because of their growth habit and toleranceof shade, a common practice was to grow currant bush-es under grape vines within the vineyard, or under fruittrees which were often planted at the end of every othervineyard row. Red and white currants were commerciallypopular in the Hudson Valley and were most often usedtogether, since jams and preserves made solely with whitecurrants were thought to be unappealing in appearance.

J. Stephen Casscles

Keeping it CurrantAs a dessert wine or liqueur, Hudson Valley Cassis is as fresh as ever

8 HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer/Fall 2012

G R A P E S O F T H E H U D S O N V A L L E Y

Page 11: Hudson Valley Wine Magazine Fall 2012

At that time, very few black currants were commerciallygrown here due in part to their strong, tart flavor. To makematters worse, under a Federal law enacted in 1911black currants were banned from being cultivated at all in the U.S.

The reason for these laws was the misguided belief thatthe presence of black currant bushes near white pinetrees caused the uncontrolled spread of the fungal dis-ease known as white pine blister rust. The Americanlumber industry successfully pushed for a ban on the cul-tivation of black currants, small as it was, to protect thissource of pine lumber. In 1966, however, the black cur-rant ban was lifted by the Federal government andrelegated to State control, as it was finally determinedthat there was little or no relationship of black currants tothe life cycle of white pine blister rust. (In fact, at my farmin Athens, New York, I grow black currants and they arevery close to a large stand of very healthy and tall whitepine trees!)

While the Federal ban was lifted in 1966, New York Statecontinued its ban on the cultivation of black currants until2003. That year, New York State Senator William J.Larkin, Jr. (R-C) of Cornwall-on-Hudson, introduced a billthat became law which lifted the ban on the cultivation ofblack currants in fruiting districts, or potential fruiting dis-tricts, such as those that exist in the Hudson Valley. Thisbill was part of a legislative program of bills initiated bythe NYS Senate Task Force for Hudson Valley FruitGrowers, chaired by Senator Larkin (whose Counsel wasyours truly). The bill was signed into law on August 5,2003, by Governor George E. Pataki of nearby Garrison,whose family, incidentally, were fruit and currant growersfrom Peekskill.

In the past decade there has been renewed local interestin fruit cultivation with an increasing number of small fruit farms being established in the Hudson Valley.Consequently, with the ban lifted, currant cultivation isalso on the rise: In 2002, there were 15 farms that grewcurrants in New York State; in 2007, this numberincreased to 67 farms, with 21 of these farms beinglocated in the Hudson Valley region.

Growers are now beginning to evaluate the dozens of redand black currant varieties that exist, to determine whichones will produce the best quality fruit in the HudsonValley. With varietal names like Cherry, Wilder, Red Dutch,Champion, Perfection, Prince of Wales and even WhiteGrape, comparisons to the Hudson Valley’s grape cultureare inevitable.

This is an exciting time for currants growers in the Valley because the market for this fruit is expanding.Currants’ high levels of vitamins A and C, anthocyanins(flavonoids), and total phenolics have proven to possessa high antioxidant quality, so they are once again gainingpopularity as medicinal creams, teas and syrups. Andhere in the Hudson Valley, cultivating black currants forthe production of cassis and other alcoholic, and non-alcoholic, beverages is on the rise.

Turning Currants into WineFresh black currants have a strong and unusual flavor.They are not pleasant to the taste – they are bitter, herba-ceous like juniper berries, dry, acidic, and with enoughtannin to practically rip the enamel off your teeth.

However, when made into a still wine, liqueur or cordial,they can have a big, musky yet velvety feel with fruit fla-vors of cooked prunes or mulberries, chocolate, andplums. Black currant liqueur, which can be made eithersemi-dry or sweet, is intense and thick with a very darkpurple color. It has often been likened to drinking a jellypreserve – a thick, rich taste with deep jammy berrynotes. The level of sweetness helps to determine its vis-cosity, balance, and how it is to be consumed. In theend, it is the balancing of the tart and the sweet, with itsfruity taste, that produces its silkiness.

Cassis is the specialty liqueur produced from black cur-rants that originated in the French region of Burgundywhere it is officially known as Crème de Cassis. MostAmericans are familiar with cassis as a dessert cordial,though more often than not they are introduced to Cassiswhen mixed in a cocktail. Cassis can be used to make asimple Kir when added to a dry white wine; a Kir Royaleis made by mixing cassis with Champagne (when mixedwith a white sparkling wine, i.e., not from the Champagne

www.hvwinemag.com • Summer/Fall 2012 9

continued on page 10

Currants vs. Corinthes

It should be pointed out thatour locally grown, Americanred and black currants (Ribesspecies) are not at all relatedto the popular dried blackfruit found at the grocerystore. Those “currants,” oftenused in baking, are known asthe “Zante currant,” and arein reality a small, seedless,berried grape variety (botani-cally belonging to the Vitisvinifera grape family), and are usually dried to make raisins.

Although labeled as “currants,” the “Zante currant” takes itsfirst name from the Greek island of “Zante,” where theseraisins are produced. It was the British, sometime in the late1500s or early 1600s, who dubbed these dried Greek grapes“currants” – a reference to the Greek port of Corinth, wheresupplies of this fruit shipped out to western Europe, and acorruption of their French name “raisin de Corinthe,” orCorinthian grape. Early English texts alternatively calledthis dried grape by several names: reysonys of Corawnce,Corinthes, corans, currantes, currans, and bastard corinthes.The name “currant” was eventually applied to this species ofRibes because of its resemblance to the “grape of Corinth.”

PHOTO

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Winery

Page 12: Hudson Valley Wine Magazine Fall 2012

THE CONDUCTOR’S CASSISBrookview Station Winery

CASSIS DESSERT WINEHudson-Chatham Winery

CASSIS LIQUEURTuthilltown Spirits Distillery

BLACK CURRANT WINEGlorie Farm Winery

CRÉME DE CASSIS Tousey Winery

BLACK CURRANT CORDIALWarwick Valley Winery & Distillery

THE MANY FACES OF CASSIS

In the Hudson Valley, Cassis and Black Currant winesare artisanally crafted in many different styles,depending on the winemaker or distiller. Using locally-grown currants that naturally thrive here, its no wonderthe Hudson Valley is quickly becoming the country’snumber one producer in just a few short years. Enjoythe expression of these regional favorites.

region, it is called a Kir Pétillant) – so-named in honor ofFélix Kir, mayor of Dijon in Burgundy, who popularizedthe cocktail in post-War France. When added to a redBurgundy or Beaujolais-style wine the result is the Frenchdrink known as a Cardinal (after their red robes) orCommunard (i.e., the communist “Red Menace”). In mostcases, the proportion of cassis to wine is often up to thetaste and preference of the drinker.

Cassis is rapidly becoming something of a specialty inthe Hudson Valley too, and is now being produced by an increasing number of wineries and distilleries, includ-ing Adair Vineyards, Brookview Station Winery, ClintonVineyards, Glorie Farm Winery, Hudson-Chatham Winery,Tousey Winery, Tuthilltown Spirits Distillery and WarwickValley Winery & Distillery.

Black currant wines and liqueurs are produced in manydifferent ways and every cassis or black currant winemaker approaches the process differently. The level ofalcohol and expression of fruit changes from maker tomaker. While everyone begins the process with fresh, localblack currants, there are plenty of variations. For example,Tousey uses four different varieties of currants in theirCréme de Cassis, Glorie Farm Winery uses at least two intheir Black Currant Wine; Hudson-Chatham Winery macer-ates the fruit for over two-and-a-half months to make theirPaperbirch Cassis Dessert Wine; and Tuthilltown SpiritsDistillery macerates the fruit in whiskey-cured AmericanOak barrels with a small portion of the black currantbush’s leaves. This gives their Cassis Liqueur a more tannic structure (think dry leaves or black tea).

Making cassis is an arduous task that requires patience,and lots of currants, as they do not produce much juiceeven after water is added to hydrate them. In fact, theamount of currants needed to make just a 375ml half-bottle of liqueur is about three times as much as what isneeded to make one 750ml bottle of wine from grapes.The maker has the additional challenge of balancing tart-ness with sugar to achieve the appropriately high alcohollevel. This requires that sugar be added slowly andpainstakingly to the fermenting fruit over the course ofseveral months. Instead of sugar, some cassis makersuse honey to balance out the acidity of the tart fruit, aswith Warwick Valley’s American Fruits’ Black CurrantCordial. Tousey Winery also take this approach, usinghoney from their own bees.

The process gets even more diverse with black currantcordials and liqueurs. Both Tuthilltown and Warwick add the fresh, macerated fruit directly to a distilled spiritor brandy base to infuse the flavor into the alcohol. After initial fermentation, Brookview Station Winery addsa fruit-based alcohol to the must to produce theirConductor’s Black Currant Cassis. These methods cancreate a product that is naturally a bit higher in alcohol,ranging from 18% to 22%.

In all versions of Hudson Valley Cassis, the big, sweet-tart taste of fresh black currant is evident, whether madeas a wine, liqueur, or in a true crème de cassis-style –thick and sweet like its French counterpart. Cassis should be treated like a port or brandy; expect the profileto change the longer the bottle is opened.

continued on page 13

continued from page 9

10 HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer/Fall 2012

Page 13: Hudson Valley Wine Magazine Fall 2012

[ TIPS FOR LOCAL WINE AND CHEESE PAIRINGS ]

SAVORY STARTER FOR ENTERTAINING; AN AUSTRIAN INSPIRATION

By Wendy Crispell, CSW, WSET

Try this version of Liptauer I createdand let me know how you like it. It canbe served stuffed into small tomatoes,with carrot sticks or slathered on acrusty loaf. Why not pick up a fewbottles of local wine and make thiseasy, tasty starter to spread on a crispfall apple? Try it, it’s great!

LIPTAuER CHEESE SPREAD

Serves 6-8

8 ounces goat cheese (any freshHudson Valley chevre or farmer’scheese will work)

4 oz. unsalted butter

2 teaspoons paprika – 1 sweet,1 hot

Pinch cayenne pepper or to taste

2 tablespoon Dijon mustard

2 big pinches of salt, or to taste

2 pinches white pepper, or to taste

1-1/2 teaspoons caraway seeds, toasted & crushed

2 tablespoons chopped scallion

1 tablespoon chopped kosher dillpickles

Thin crostini or crackers

1 bunch of chopped chives, to serve

Bring the cheese and butter to roomtemperature, then cream the goatcheese in a large bowl by hand or witha hand blender. Add the butter andincorporate well. Add the paprika, mus-tard, cayenne, white pepper and salt,and cream them together some more.Now, by hand, beat in the carawayseeds, scallion, and pickles. Taste andadjust until everything is to your liking.Best to make a few hours ahead andchill for flavors to meld. Enjoy!

continued on page 69

Wine-ing a Whey

Last week a friend and I literallystumbled upon a wonderful little Germanic wine gardencalled Berlyn after catching

a movie at BAM Rose Cinema inBrooklyn. Relaxing on the back porchfilled with strange gnomes, animal figurines and pillows fashioned intosausage shapes, I perused the wine andsnack menu happy to see one of myfavorites, Liptauer cheese, as a starter.The wine choices where equally inter-esting. I immediately ordered a glass of Hugel Gentil, a field blend native to Alsace, while I decided on dishes for the rest of our Germanic adventure.Gentil is an ancient Alsace traditionthat produces wines from a blend ofsome of the finest grapes grown, har-vested and vinified together. Hugel’sversion allies the suave, spicy flavor ofGewurztraminer, the body of PinotGris, the finesse of Riesling, the grapi-ness of Muscat and the refreshingcharacter of Sylvaner. It was a real treat and was sure to pair well with the small feast we had ordered.

When our appetizers arrived I foundmyself gobbling down the Liptauercheese and leaving the other delicaciessuch as smoked trout and potato pan-cakes for my friend to enjoy. Almostashamed of my gluttony I found myselfwondering, why don’t I make this moreoften at home? It’s so easy to prepare –and delicious!

Liptauer cheese spread, an Austro-Hungarian favorite and traditionally

made with a soft sheep cheese has justabout as many variations as there aretypes of other soft cheeses used inrecipes I’ve found scattered across theinternet. The name is derived from theGerman name Liptau for the region ofLiptov (Hungarian: Liptó) in northernSlovakia, a former county in theAustro-Hungarian Empire. It is a partof the regional cuisine of Slovakia (asŠmirkás, a garbled form of the GermanSchmierkäse for cheese spread) andHungary (as Liptói túró).

The first time I was served Liptauer was on a cool autumn night while visit-ing a Heuriger, a tradition in Austrianwine culture. I remember settling in fora memorable experience of food and

drink unique to the outskirts of Viennawith a group of young Austrian wine-makers. Eager to share their wines andknowledge we paired their field blendscalled Gemischter Satz, interesting com-binations of several grapes native toAustria, with cheeses, sausage and coldmeats. What actually is a Heuriger? The word Heuriger translates into both“new wine” (heuer meaning “this year”),

PAIRING LIPTAUER WITH LOCAL WINE

www.hvwinemag.com • Summer/Fall 2012 11

If served with: Sausage and apples Hearty brown bread

Try: Traminette Gamay

From: Applewood Winery Whitecliff Vineyard

Palaia Vineyards

or

Try: Off-dry Riesling Baco Noir

From: Brotherhood Winery Benmarl Winery

Robibero Winery Hudson-Chatham Winery

Tousey Winery

Page 14: Hudson Valley Wine Magazine Fall 2012
Page 15: Hudson Valley Wine Magazine Fall 2012

RENSSELAERCOLUM

BIAGREENE

DUTCHESSULSTER

SULLIVANORANGE

WESTCHESTER

WINERIES & DISTILLERIESOF THE HUDSON VALLEY

This September and October, when you’re enjoying thegrandeur of the Hudson Valley fall, be sure to stop in to visityour local winery. There’s nothing more enjoyable than roam-

ing along the Valley’s back roads, admiring the setting, and stoppingoff to sample some artisanal wines.

Along the road you’ll see fall foliage at its finest, and at the wineriesan equally colorful palette of wines will be waiting – ruby-rich reds,crisp autumn whites, and all shades in between.

This season, the wineries of the Hudson Valley are launching a new campaign – “Fall in Love with Hudson Valley Wine.” You’ll find special tastings, events, and promotions throughout the region, atrestaurants, and at local wine shops too. You can pick up a specialmixed case of your favorite wines, many of which have been reviewedin Wine Spectator, Wine Enthusiast, Snooth, The New York Times, andthe Wall Street Journal. Check Hudson Valley Wine Country’srevamped website (www.hudsonvalleywinecountry.org) for moredetails and to help plan your trip.

A visit to the Hudson Valley isn’t complete, though, unless you stop in to one of the region’s distilleries to sample what’s been cooking intheir shiny stills, and add a visit to one of the growing number ofbreweries along the route. After all, ‘tis the season to try their seasonalbrews, like pumpkin ale or wheat beer. And don’t miss out on all thenew hard ciders – like wine, they come in many different varieties and styles, each with its own apple terroir and flavor profile.

It’s all part of the experience of visiting HudsonValley wine country, and this season we knowyou’re gonna “Fall in Love.”

Orange

Applewood Winery ..................14

Brotherhood Winery ................16

Palaia Vineyards ......................18

Warwick Valley Winery &

Distillery ...................................20

Sullivan

BashaKill Vineyards .................22

Ulster

Adair Vineyards........................24

Baldwin Vineyards ...................26

Benmarl Winery .......................28

Brimstone Hill Vineyard ...........30

Cereghino Smith......................32

Glorie Farm Winery .................34

Robibero Winery......................36

Stoutridge Vineyard .................38

Whitecliff Vineyard ...................40

Dutchess

Millbrook Vineyards & Winery ..42

Columbia

Hudson-Chatham Winery........44

Tousey Winery ........................46

Rensselaer

Brookview Station Winery .......48

Distilleries

Catskill Distilling Company......50

Harvest Spirits .........................52

Tuthilltown Spirits Distillery......54

INDEX BY COUNTY

www.hvwinemag.com • Summer/Fall 2012 13

ShawangunkWine Trail

DutchessWine Trail

Hudson BerkshireBeverage Trail

KEY TO SYMBOLS:

THE HUDSON VALLEY

continued from page 10

As an aside, it is interesting to notethat no red currant wine or cassis isbeing made commercially in theHudson Valley, despite its earlierpopularity. Having personally madered currant cassis for over twentyyears, I look forward to the timewhen it will be as viable as the blackcurrant version. Black currant cassisis dark and velvety; red currant cas-sis has bright berry flavors ofcranberries and can taste like a goodcherry wine, with a similar acid pro-file. While not as dark and syrupy asblack currant cassis, red currantcassis is a full-bodied, medium red-hued liqueur that also hastremendous depth and presence.Like its dark cousin, red currant cas-sis mixes well as a Kir on a warmsummer’s night. Production of bothshould be encouraged here in theHudson Valley. But I digress...

With a burgeoning number ofHudson Valley producers currentlymaking black currant cassis, liqueur,and wine, there are plenty of sam-ples to be had. Experiment with themas an aperitif, on the rocks or in a cocktail, drizzled over fruit salad orice cream, or sipped as a dessertcordial. I welcome you to try themnow, to understand the differentstyles and what makes this HudsonValley specialty so unique. Be therefor the beginning of what could verywell be a cassis explosion. •

Page 16: Hudson Valley Wine Magazine Fall 2012

TO MAKE OUR WINES we tie vines to trellises, we anxiously await the arrival ofSpring, pull hoses with our hands, lift bins of grapes, gently fill bottles and cheerfullybring our wine to you.

Join us at Applewood Winery, in the heart of the historic Hudson Valley! Come discoverthe oldest working farm in Orange County and one of the oldest west of the HudsonRiver. The Hull family and their friends began plantingapple and peach trees in former pastures in 1949. In 1994the winery was created and vineyards planted. Remarkably,the vistas from the vineyards today have changed littlefrom the time before George Washington was born.

When we first started making wine we had two goals inmind: Making some really great quality wines and having as much fun as possible doing so. We want to share our passion for wine with you and make it an easy, enjoyableexperience for you, your friends and your family. Wineriesin the Hudson Valley invite you to slow down. Take timeto enjoy wine, and yourself. When you visit Applewoodyou get to taste wine right where it comes from.

You’ll find we champion the underdogs of the wine world. Come look beyond the culture of Merlot as syn-onymous with red and Chardonnay with white, reducingwine to a franchise with no uniqueness or sense of place.You’ll find plenty of true connoisseurs in the tasting roomof Applewood. People who know what they like and don’tneed some wine critic’s review to justify it. The wine is not expensive or French, and you don’t need to know an insider to get it, which may disappoint some folks…

We talk about food constantly in our tasting room, almostas much as we talk about our wines. It’s difficult to mentionone without the other. Instead of “just talk” we offer a uni-verse of wine experiences, food pairing weekends, tastingclasses, a Summer Café and of course you can just hang outand enjoy the wine and listen to live music in the courtyard.

It gives all of us at Applewood Winery great pleasure toshare with you our harvest of wine. Newcomers to theworld of wine learn in a comfortable setting and even themost jaded imbiber will find a rich and complex tasting experience.

14 HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer/Fall 2012

APPLEWOOD WINERYEstablished 1994

MEET THE WINEMAKERS Jonathan and Michele Hull are the ownersof Applewood Winery. Jonathan grew upon the farm and moved to New York Cityto attend NYU. When he met Michele,his idea of a gourmet meal was takeout.Michele worked at the famous Windowson The World restaurant and was wise inthe ways of food and wine. She decided topolish this diamond in the rough and hewas a willing pupil. Living in New YorkCity at the time was a great learning exper-ience but Jonathan yearned to return tohis agricultural roots.

With his newfound love of wine to inspirehim, one day Jonathan hit on the idea ofopening a winery on the family farm. Andlike Eva Gabor, Michele was swept awayto the country and the vision became abucolic reality. The prodigal son returnedhome and opened the winery withMichele’s gracious hand guiding the tast-ing room. She’s been welcoming guests toour tasting room for 15 years now.

“My goal is to make some great wines that are unique to New York and theHudson Valley that express true life andcharacter,” Jonathan says, “If that doesn’twork, I’ll just hang out under a tree andslurp some Riesling.”

VA R I E TA L S

SEYVAL/CHARDONNAY

SEYVAL/CHARDONNAYRESERVE

R I E S L I N G

S UMMER F I E L D S

WAWAYANDA WH I T E

N A K E D F L O C KH ARD C I D E R(Original, Draft,Pumpkin)

V I D A L

APPLE BLOSSOM BLUSH

T R AM I N E T T E

H A R V E S T T I M E

C A B E RN E T F R A N C

OBR (OAK BARREL RESERVE)

M ER LO T

INTERNAT IONAL RED

B LU E B E R RY

B L A C K B E R RY

RUB Y ’ S K I S S

AB

OU

T U

S

Page 17: Hudson Valley Wine Magazine Fall 2012

www.hvwinemag.com • Summer/Fall 2012 15

V I N E YA RDAPPLEWOOD WINERY

A DDR E SS82 Four Corners RoadWarwick, NY 10990

PHON E845-988-9292

EMA I [email protected]

WEBS I T Ewww.applewoodwinery.com

OP ENMarch–Dec: Fri–Sun, 11am–5pm

TA S T I N G F E E S$5 per person

A C R E AG E10 acres

P RODUC T I O N4,000 cases

OWNER SJonathan and Michele Hull

W IN EMAK E RJonathan Hull

EVENTS (Check website for more information, to book reservations and purchase tickets. All events are rain or shine.)

Free Music in the Courtyard – every Sat & Sun 2–5pm

Sept– Oct Pick Your Own ApplesCall for availability of different varieties 

Nov 3–4 New York Hard Cider ExperienceFeaturing artisanal hard ciders and applewines created just for this event along withfood pairings by our chef. Live music, logowine glass and free wine tasting included.

THE ESSENTIALS

ORANGE

IN THE SPOTLIGHTNAKED FLOCK HARD CIDER

The Naked Flock is introducing people to atrue Hudson Valley hard cider. “Our cideris for people who crave unique flavor andare on the hunt for quality,” says cidermaker Jonathan Hull.

Naked Flock Hard Cider is available inthree styles, Original, Draft, and Pumpkin,a seasonal cider fermented with locallygrown pumpkins. Naked Flock Hard Ciderisn’t made from apple juice concentrate butfrom fresh pressed Hudson Valley apples.“You get a smoother cleaner, crisper taste,”says Hull.

Most Americans have never tasted a truehard apple cider. “With the demand forgluten-free diets and local sustainable prod-ucts, hard cider has finally come into itsown.” Says the cider maker, “We don’t addwater or grape spirits, flavorings or col-orants and that’s why you get a big “apple”nose when you open it. This also helps togive Naked Flock a look and feel that sets itapart from the competition.”

Naked Flock’s flavor profile may be moreremarkable for what it’s not then what it is;unlike the majority of widely available ciderbeverages, this cider is not cloying, overlysweet or artificially colored. Its restrainedand almost floral/apple nose could easilysubstitute gastronomically for champagne.

GETTING HEREFROM NEW YORK CITY AND NEW JERSEY:Take the New York State Thruway (I-87) Northto Exit 16 Harriman (Woodbury Commons),then Rt. 17 West to Exit 127 greycourt Rd.Follow signs to Sugar Loaf then Warwick, Cty.Rt. 13. Three miles past Sugar Loaf, turn righton Four Corners Road, go 1 mile. Travel time1 hour from george Washington Bridge.

FROM ALBANY, KINGSTON, NEWBURGH & CONNECTICUT:Take the New York State Thruway (I-87) South to Exit 16 Harriman (WoodburyCommons). Then same as above.

Page 18: Hudson Valley Wine Magazine Fall 2012

HERE AT BROTHERHOOD, AMERICA’S OLDEST WINERY, we celebrated the inauguration of Grand Monarque Hall in November 2011. Our Board of Directors, alongwith our close partners, associates, local government officials, staff and friends were there tocelebrate this milestone with us. Grand Monarque Hall is what we consider the “crownjewel” of our property and is becoming one of the most sought-after event spaces in theHudson Valley.

The Emerson Family, the second family to take ownership of Brotherhood Winery, focused on expansion in several areas of our property. The winemaking area was movedfrom the brick building (which now serves as Vinum Café) into Grand Monarque Hall as it was directly above the long vault where all of Brotherhood’s wines were being barrel-aged.There was a pulley system and shaft in the cellars that made transporting barrels of wineinto the processing area more efficient. In 1921, the Farrell family took ownership ofBrotherhood and began to grow the business from a winemaking facility into a tourist destination. The winemaking area was moved, once again, into a new plant, with more“modern” equipment, including an automated bottling lineand bigger stainless steel tanks for storage. Grand MonarqueHall was then converted into an event space, which hostedmany memorable parties.

Tragically, in January of 1999, an electrical fire broke out inGrand Monarque Hall, destroying it and the surroundingbuildings. The fire burned for days. Thankfully, the iconicstone walls proved to be structurally sound, so when our new Board of Directors took over in 2005, the plans beganto restore this very special part of our property. GrandMonarque Hall with its adjacent cobblestone patio now consists of over 8,000 square feet of event space.

Brotherhood has launched an aggressive monthly promotionfor our newsletter subscribers. We will feature select wineseach month and offer deep discounts for online purchases aswell as special discounts in the Tasting Room. You mustreceive our newsletter to participate in these savings.Subscribers will also receive recipes, food and wine pairingsuggestions and often have access to special event ticketsbefore events are announced to the general public. If youhaven’t received our newsletter yet, go to www.brotherhood-winery.net/contact.html to sign up!

Our tours and tastings run full schedule April throughDecember. Our “Historical Tour” is offered several timesdaily, where visitors get a glimpse into Brotherhood’s history,all in our famous, hand-excavated underground cellars. Thetour isn’t complete without experiencing one of three tasting “flights” of award-winningwines. We have seasonal wine specials and one of the largest winery gift shops in the area,offering Brotherhood souvenirs, wine accessories, local creations and unique imported items.

In addition to producing some of the oldest and finest wines and champagnes in America,Brotherhood continues to create and bring back to life some of its grand and legendary parties and events. Our Courtyard Wine Garden features live music every weekend fromMemorial Day through Labor Day, and then Grape Stomping every weekend from LaborDay into October. Check our website for more information on some of the most excitingevents in the entire Hudson Valley! Visit www.brotherhoodwinery.net today!

16 HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer/Fall 2012

BROTHERHOOD, AMERICA’S OLDEST WINERYEstablished 1839

MEET THE WINEMAKERS The winemaking team at Brotherhood isled by Winemaster Cesar Baeza. Cesarbegan his career with Master’s Degrees as an Agricultural Engineer, as well as inViticulture and Enology and also inSensory Analysis. His experience includesworking in many of the winemakingregions in the world, including: Califor-nia, France, Chile, Spain, the Soviet Unionand New York State. Cesar oversees all theaspects of viticulture, product developmentand winemaking at Brotherhood Winery.

Mark Daigle has the role of ProductionManager, expert machinist and “fixer of allthings.” When he isn’t running both bot-tling lines like well-oiled machines, Markcan often be found welding, grinding,repairing and, of course, consulting withCesar and Bob about the different blendsBrotherhood produces. Mark’s extensivebackground includes working in the vine-yards of Chappellet in Napa Valley, MaisonBertrand Novack in Champagne, Franceand in the cellars at Chanson Père et Fils inBeaune, France. He is an essential part ofthe winemaking team because of his dedi-cation, unique talents and over 30 years ofexperience at Brotherhood.

Working directly with Mark and Cesar isWinemaker Bob Barrow. Bob graduatedfrom Virginia Tech with a BS in Biologyand a Chemistry Minor in 1998. Heworked in both the vineyard and the win-ery at Williamsburg Winery in Virginiabefore starting at Brotherhood in 1999. A native of Dutchess County, Bob spendshis time in the cellars and lab creatingBrotherhood’s blends. In the fall, he can befound out on the crush pad with Markpressing the tons of grapes that Brotherhoodprocesses every year.

VA R I E TA L SB L ANC D E B L A N C SS PA R K L I N G W I N E

G R AND MONARQU E(Limited Release)

NY P R EM I UMS E L E C T I O N S

P I N O T N O I R

C A B E RN E TS AU V I G NON

MER LO T

R I E S L I N G

DRY R I E S L I N G

CH A RDONNAY

RUB Y P O R T

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PHOTOS: Tomas Donoso

Page 19: Hudson Valley Wine Magazine Fall 2012

V I N E YA RDBROTHERHOOD WINERY

A DDR E SS100 Brotherhood Plaza DriveWashingtonville, NY 10992

PHON E845-496-3661

FA X845-496-8720

EMA I [email protected]

WEBS I T Ewww.brotherhoodwinery.net

OP ENApril–December: Sun–Fri, 11am–5pm Sat, 11am–6pm

C LO S E DThanksgiving, Christmas Day,New Year’s Day

TA S T I N G F E E S$7 with glass

TOUR S$10 tour, tasting and glass

A C R E AG E40 acres

P RODUC T I O N40,000 cases

OWNERChadwick, Castro and Baeza Families

MANAG E RHernan Donoso, President

W IN EMAK E RCesar Baeza, Winemaster Mark Daigle and Bob Barrow

EVENTS (check website for more information)

Live music weekends in the courtyard from 1–4pm

Aug 25 Wine & Sangria Pig RoastFestival. 1–6pm. $45/person+ tax

Sept–Oct Grapestomping weekends Oct 26 Halloween Costume Ball. 8pm

THE ESSENTIALS

www.hvwinemag.com • Summer/Fall 2012 17

IN THE SPOTLIGHT

DRY RIESLING

This surprisingly dry, whitewine offers bright aromas offresh lime, tropical fruit andhas a light mineral quality.Very crisp, with the mouth-watering taste of Granny Smithapples, it is well-balancedwith a lingering finish.

PINOT NOIR

This wine is light brick red in color, has a nose of freshberries and plums with a hintof violets. It also displaysbright fruit flavors of cran-berry, cherry and black teawhich create a light-to-medium bodied wine with a layered complexity stayingtrue to form.

SWEET LOLLY RED

Introducing a wine that ismeant for good times, casualget-togethers and girls’ nightout! This wine was made forthe fun, flirty and fruity fla-vors that know how to have aparty on your palate! Servethis chilled with your favoriteBBQ foods and best friends!

GETTING HEREFROM NYS THRUWAY (I-87): Take Exit 16 Harriman, go through toll plaza to Rt. 17W to exit 130. Take 208 North to Rt. 94 in Washingtonville. Make a right atthe light on Rt. 94 and at the next lightmake a left on Brotherhood Plaza Drive.Brotherhood is on end of road on left.

ORANGE

Page 20: Hudson Valley Wine Magazine Fall 2012

LOCATED IN A 200-YEAR-OLD BARN on land once owned by Aaron Burr, Palaia Vineyards is right in the middle of a richly historic area of the Hudson Valley.History is a main theme in all the operations here, from our land to our labels, which feature different photos of our relatives on each variety.

We purchased the land in 2000 and began restoring thebarn and converting it to a winery and tasting room. Ithas expanded since then to include the “Treehouse” andthe “Sweet Clover Room” for music and private parties.The vines were planted in 2001 and we now have 10 acresof vineyard within view of the picnic grove and outsidestage. We grow Cabernet Franc, Lemberger, Traminette,Seyval Blanc and Pinot Noir. In addition to what we growhere, we use New York State grapes to produce a variety ofother award winning wines from dry to sweet.

We believe that your tasting experience should be relaxedand a bit more “laid back” than a usual wine tasting. Ourtasting room reflects this, and people are always comment-ing on the great “vibe” of the place. Tasting wine should bea fun experience, and if you are not in a good mood whenyou get here, it is our goal to improve it before you leave!As our tie-dye T-shirts say: “Palaia is where, the WoodstockNation gets its Libation…Man.” There is a variety of lightgourmet fare to eat as well, including fantastic Amishcheeses, cheese & antipasto platters, smooth and creamyBrie, our personal-sized thin-crust pizzas, and more.

With the live music every weekend, all year long, howcould you not have a wonderful time here? Come watch aplay or listen to music outside all summer, stomp grapeswith us in September, pick grapes with us in October, and check the website for our events and music listing therest of the year, or get on our e-mail list so you don’t miss a thing!

18 HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer/Fall 2012

PALAIA VINEYARDSEstablished 2001

MEET THE WINEMAKERS Winemakers Joe, Jan and Joe Palaggi arealso the owners of the winery. Joe learnedhow to make wine from his grandfatherand went on to take classes and seminarsto improve his skills. Jan and Joe (theyounger) are the “wine finishing” expertsand do the testing and refining of thewines in preparation for bottling.

Joe will retire from his job someday andwork full time at the winery, but for nowit is up to Jan and young Joe to carry onwith the day-to-day operations.

W IN E S

P I N O T N O I R

C A B E RN E T F R A N CEstate Grown

MER LO T

U VA S E C C AEstate Grown

S E R I O U S R E DRed Blend

L EMB E RG E REstate Grown

I R E N EWhite Blend

CH ARDONNAY

T R AM I N E T T EEstate Grown

J OY F U L P I N KRosé

MEADHoney Wine

P LU S

PINK WINE SLUSHIESSeasonal

HARD CIDER & SANGRIAOn Tap

With the live music every

weekend, all year long,

how could you not have

a wonderful time here?

p Lucy look-alike contest and grapestomp in September

qAl Westphal

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Page 21: Hudson Valley Wine Magazine Fall 2012

www.hvwinemag.com • Summer/Fall 2012 19

ORANGE

V I N E YA RDPALAIA vINEYARDS

A DDR E SS20 Sweet Clover RoadHighland Mills, NY 10930

PHON E845-928-5384

FA X845-928-7683

EMA I [email protected]

WEBS I T Ewww.palaiavineyards.com

OP ENJan 1–Memorial Day: Fri–Sun Memorial Day–Dec 31: Open daily

C LO S E DNew Years Day, Easter, Thanksgiving, Christmas Day

TA S T I N G F E E S$5 for 6 wines

TOUR SBy appointment only

A C R E AG E32 total, 10 in vines

P RODUC T I O N2,000 cases

OWNER SJoe and Jan Palaggi

G EN E R A L M AN AG E R Jan PalaggiOP E R AT I O N S M AN AG E R Craig Cowton([email protected])WHO L E S A L E I N Q U I R I E [email protected]

W IN EMAK E R SJoe (and son) Joe Palaggi

EVENTS For more on events and music checkthe website.

Aug 25 ELVIS! Live, in person. BBq.6:30–9:30pm, no cover.

Sept 1 Peach Project. The area’s best AllmanBrothers Tribute Band and BBq. 6:30–9:30pm.$5/person 

Sept 2 Neil Young Tribute and Pig Roastto benefit the Souza Scholarship Foundation.Bands all day and pig roast at 2pm. 12 –6pm.$10/person 

Sept 22 The Great Lucy Look-alike Contestand Grape Stomp Festival. vendors of allkinds and BBq at 3pm. “u-guYS” from 6:30–9:30pm; stomp and contest at 8pm, no cover.

Sept 29 Pumpkin Chuckin’ Contest.Spend the afternoon chuckin’ pumpkins! BBq and “McMule” from 6:30–9:30, no cover.

GETTING HEREFROM NYS THRUWAY (I-87): We are very easy to find being only 5 miles from theWoodbury Commons Premium Outlets on Rt.32 North. From the NYS Thruway take Exit 16and then the first exit after the tolls for Rt. 32North. We are exactly 5 miles on the left onSweet Clover Road across from WoodburyRd. If you are coming from the North, we are4 miles from the light at Cornwall on Rt. 32.Look for the big white Winery sign at the topof the road and follow the signs around thegray barn to the parking lot.

THE ESSENTIALS

IN THE SPOTLIGHTIRENE

Named for the hurricane that flattenedquite a bit of our vineyard last summer,this white blend is much nicer than itsname implies. Smooth and semi-sweetwith a peachy, sun-drenched taste you willlove. What a great, refreshing, sit on thelawn and do nothing, kind of wine! Silvermedal winner at the 2012 NY State Fair.

JOYFUL PINK

A Rosé that is light on the palate with softstrawberry overtones. Sweet and tart at thesame time, this is one of our most popularwines. A percentage of all sales goes to theYoung Survivor’s Coalition for BreastCancer. 2009 International Medal winner,2010 NY State Fair winner and 2011Finger Lakes Wine & Food Classic winner.

HARD CIDER

“Because not everyone drinks wine.” Afine blend of crisp local apples makes thisa wonderfully refreshing drink. Not bot-tled, but available on tap year round.Something new for us, and we hope youenjoy it as much as we do.

Page 22: Hudson Valley Wine Magazine Fall 2012

OUR STORY BEGINS IN THE ORCHARD. In 1989, we purchased the orchard andbegan to learn how to cultivate fruit. Local apple growers and extension agents taught usthe basics and contributed to our early success. Our first product, in fact our entire busi-ness, started as a result of an abundant apple crop that lead us to experiment with hardcider. We were soon hooked and we received our farm winery and cider producer licensesin 1993. Our doors opened to the public in the Fall of 1994.

In the early days, we had three wines and one cider, all of which were a bit unrefined. Ourinexperience was as evident as our enthusiasm and we persevered to create higher qualitywines and cider. Every vintage improved as we honed our skills and continued to learn theart and science of wine and cider making. Eventually, hard work paid off, leading us to thedevelopment of our acclaimed Doc’s Draft Hard AppleCider. The success of our Doc’s Draft Hard cider is due toour insistence in using the finest fruit available.

The passion for creating wines and ciders soon evolved intoan idea to begin distilling and to open the first distillery inthe Hudson Valley since Prohibition. It was our belief thatthe fruits grown in the fertile Hudson Valley could be madeinto the highest quality fruit brandies and liqueurs. In2001, we received a grant to develop New York’s first fruitmicro-distillery. Using the same principle that had broughtsuccess to the wine and cider, we created a line of fruitbrandies and liqueurs – American Fruits – made to captureand preserve the essence of fruit at its peak ripeness.

Our post-and-beam tasting room provides visitors a uniqueenvironment to explore many offerings of wines, ciders,brandies and liqueurs. Renovated from an old apple pack-ing house and overlooking a goose pond and the orchards,its bucolic setting is perfect for enjoying some great wine,music and food from our own Pané Café. A deliciousbistro menu of fresh bread, pizzas, sandwiches and saladsfrom Pané Café is served all weekend long.

Warwick Valley Winery & Distillery is the perfect place for the perfect “Country Wedding”or any private party. For information email Randy at [email protected].

Our mission since our inception has been to create fruit-based alcoholic beverages that are as unique as the fruits themselves. It’s the magical combination of wine, music andfood that makes any visit to Warwick Valley Winery & Distillery so enjoyable.

20 HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer/Fall 2012

WARWICK VALLEY WINERY & DISTILLERYEstablished 1994

MEET THE WINEMAKER Jason A. Grizzanti is a renowned NewYork State winemaker, pomologist, viniculturalist, businessman and the inno-vator behind the Empire State’s first fruitmicro-distillery. Jason is a principal andchief operating officer in charge of pro-duction at the Warwick Valley Winery in the Hudson Valley’s picturesque apple capital.

Under Jason’s direction, the facility hasgarnered critical acclaim and awards for its fruit distillates including an 87 ratingfrom the Beverage Tasting Institute forGrizzanti’s pear brandy; a Gold Medal atthe NY Wine and Food Classic for his pearliqueur; coverage in Forbes Life magazinefor the bourbon barrel-aged apple liqueur;a Gold Medal-winning ruby port; and2007 ‘Best of Show’ recognition at theHudson Valley Wine Competition forJason’s American FruitsTM Sour CherryCordial.

Warwick Valley Winery

& Distillery is the

perfect place for the

perfect “Country

Wedding” or private

party.

VA R I E TA L S

A P P L E S

P E A R S

B L A C K C U R R AN TS

S T R AWB ERR I E S

CH E R R I E S

CH A RDONNAY

R I E S L I N G

C A B E RN E T F R A N C

CABERNET SAUVIGNON

P I N O T G R I S

P I N O T N O I R

PHOTOS: Carol Bates/Bates Photography, Inc. (center, opposite page)

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www.hvwinemag.com • Summer/Fall 2012 21

V I N E YA RDWARWICK vALLEY WINERY & DISTILLERY

A DDR E SS114 Little York Road Warwick, New York 10990

PHON E(845) 258-4858

FA X(845) 258-6055

EMA I [email protected]

WEBS I T Ewww.wvwinery.com

OP EN11am–6pm, dailyBakery/Café open Friday–Sunday,12pm–5pm

C LO S E DNew Years Day, Easter, Christmas 

TA S T I N G F E E S$5 includes glass

TOUR SCall for info

A C R E AG E60 acres

P RODUC T I O N100,000 cases 

OWNER SJoseph & Katherine grizzanti,Jason grizzanti, Jeremy Kidde

D I R E C TO R O F S A L E SJeremy Kidde

W IN EMAK E RJason grizzanti

EVENTS Live music every weekend,2pm–5pm

Check website for date & time:

August Johnny Cash Tribute

THE ESSENTIALS

IN THE SPOTLIGHTIn 2001, Warwick Valley Winery andDistillery became the Hudson Valley’s firstlicensed distillery since Prohibition. Weare currently the state’s leading producerof fruit brandies (eau de vies) and all natu-ral fruit liqueurs. The process begins bycrushing whole, ripe fruit and then fer-menting the mash in stainless steel tanks.The next step is to transfer the fermentedmash into our copper pot still. Oncethere, the fermented fruit is gently heatedby steam, as opposed to direct flame, toslowly boil off the alcohol without com-promising the delicate fruit aromas.

In 2009, Warwick Valley Winery andDistillery expanded the distillery to produce artisan gins and whiskeys.

GETTING HEREFROM NYC & NJ: Take Rt.17 north intoNew York State toward Albany (I-87). get off at exit 15A, Sloatsburg. Make a left offexit onto Rt. 17. Take Rt.17 north for 7miles, then make a left onto Rt.17A. Stay on Rt. 17A for approximately 17 miles intoWarwick. At the intersection of Rt.17A andRt. 94 make a left, onto Rt. 94. Proceed onRt. 94 for a 1/4 of a mile, make a right ontoLittle York Rd. The winery is 1 mile down on the right.

ORANGE

Page 24: Hudson Valley Wine Magazine Fall 2012

BASHAKILL VINEYARDS is Sullivan County’s first licensed farm winery, which openedits tasting room doors in December 2007. BashaKill Vineyards is an eco-friendly vineyardthat produces “certified naturally grown” grapes. The vineyard lies on a slight slope thatflows down to the 2,000 acre BashaKill wetlands. This marsh provides an ideal micro-climate to grow world-class organic grapes and the loose sandy soil offers excellent farm-ing conditions. The land around the wetlands has a long history of farming dating backto the 1700s. It was initially inhabited by Native Americans, and by the mid-1700sEuropean settlers migrated to the area. Old clay drainage pipes can still be found in someof the fields.

The northern fields of the vineyard, planted in 2005, arehome to both our Cayuga White vines as well as a red variety named Noiret. We use the Cayuga White grapes toproduce our Estate White Tail varietal white wine. OurEstate White Tail is a Germanic style, balanced, semi-sweetwine with hints of melon, peach, apple, and an earthyovertone. In 2006, we took a chance planting a newly-released red hybrid out of Minnesota named Marquette,which has Pinot Noir as one of its grandparents. Marquetteis known to be a hardy, disease-resistant grape while stillproducing a high-quality wine. In 2010, we harvestedenough grapes for two barrels of our first Estate red wine.We blended our Marquette with our Noiret and called itBald Eagle. This wine red wine has notes of raspberry, currants, with spice, oak and hints of black pepper, madefrom organically-grown grapes.

We are now implementing several biodynamic practices inour vineyard. In 2009, we introduced chickens into ourvineyard to help control pests and provide us with organicfertilizer, which is composted with our grape pressings andreapplied to our soil. In 2010, we introduced eightBabydoll Southdown sheep to manage our weeds and fer-tilize at the same time. We want to build an environmentthat will allow us to grow the most flavorful grapes, whichwill reflect in our wines. We also completed our wine cave,which gives us the perfect humidity and temperature tostore our barrels. The wine cave is 40’ deep and 16’ widewith hand-crafted doors of forged steel and 4-inch-thickwood weighing over 500 pounds each! Another acre-and-a-half has been cleared above the cave, which we will startprepping for more vines to expand our estate red wine production.

22 HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer/Fall 2012

BASHAKILL VINEYARDSEstablished 2005

MEET THE WINEMAKER Seven years ago, Paul Deninno began tofulfill his dream of planting a vineyardand opening a winery on his property. Hesingle-handedly constructed the vineyardtrellis, using black locust posts, an alterna-tive to using chemically-treated wood. He also laid all of the tile drainage andinstalled a drip-irrigation system whichconserves water, fertilizer and energy con-sumption. He continues to plant, prune,and maintain the entire vineyard himself.This personal care and attention assuresthat the vineyard remains chemical-freeand produces the highest quality grapes,which is reflected in his wines.

Come visit the winery where you cansample BashaKill Vineyard’s award win-ning wines. You can also bring your ownlunch and mingle with local residents andwine enthusiasts from afar. Paul also pro-vides personal tours, showing where andhow the wine is made, answers your ques-tions, and ensures you have a visit thatwill make you want to return!

WH I T E W I N E S

B ARN OW L Gewürztraminer

E S TAT E WH I T E TA I LCayuga White

WH I T E TA I LCayuga White

O S P R E Y Vignoles

WOOD D U C KChardonnay

R E D W I N E SB L A C K B E A R Cabernet Franc

B LU E H E R ONChancellor

CO P P E RH E A D Pinot Noir

COYO T E 80% Cab Sauvignon 20% Cab Franc

ESTATE BALD EAGLENoiret, Marquette

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www.hvwinemag.com • Summer/Fall 2012 23

V I N E YA RDBASHAKILL vINEYARDS

A DDR E SS1131 South RoadWurtsboro, NY 12790

PHON E845-888-5858

FA X845-888-5858

EMA I [email protected]

WEBS I T Ewww.BashaKillvineyards.com

OP ENMemorial Day–Labor Day: Sat & Sun, 12pm–6pmWinter: Sat, 12pm–5pm

C LO S E DMonday–Friday

TA S T I N G F E E S$4 includes all available wines and glass

TOUR SYes

A C R E AG E10.5 acres

P RODUC T I O N500 cases

OWNER /MAN AG E RPaul Deninno

W IN EMAK E RPaul Deninno

EVENTSLive Music 2–6pm

We have live music every day we are openthroughout the year. Please check under ourDirections tab on our website for the latesthappenings.

THE ESSENTIALS

IN THE SPOTLIGHTBARN OWL Made from the noble Gewürztraminergrape, grown and hand-harvested on theeast side of Seneca Lake in the FingerLakes region of NY. A semi-dry, highlyaromatic wine with spice and honey onthe palate and nose.

WHITE TAIL Made in the same style as our Estate wine,but with grapes from Keuka Lake, and isintended to be more of a dessert wine.

OSPREYOne of our most popular whites, thisGermanic-style, semi-sweet wine has flavorsand aromas of honeysuckle, pineapple, andgrapefruit. Enjoy with light pasta dishesand desserts.

WOOD DUCK Our first Chardonnay which is half agedin American oak and half in stainless steel,then blended together for a very smooth,dry white wine. It has a full body and abeautiful finish!

2010 BLACK BEAR Best in Show in the 2011 Hudson ValleyWine competition!Made from 100%Cabernet Franc grapes grown on SenecaLake, aged for 10 months in medium toastAmerican Oak barrels. Has notes of cherry,black currant, black pepper, and raspberryon the nose and palate. Pairs well with barbeque, steaks, and even poultry.

2010 COYOTESilver medal winner. A blend of 80%Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% CabernetFranc grapes, both grown on Seneca Lake.A dry red wine, aged for 10 months inAmerican Oak, it has notes of tobacco,black currant, spice, and pepper on thenose and palate. Pairs well with most meatdishes, especially steak and lamb.

2010 BLUE HERON Made from 100% Chancellor grapes grownon Keuka Lake. This bold wine has notes ofcedar, anise, and spice, and is a great on acrisp autumn day. Pairs well with spicy foods.

2010 ESTATE BALD EAGLE 2010 Estate Bald Eagle is our first estatered wine made from a blend of our Noiretand Marquette organically-grown grapes.We only produced enough grapes for twobarrels, but the wine is outstanding.

SULLIVAN

GETTING HEREFROM NYS THRUWAY (I-87): Exit 16Harriman. Take Routh 17W (quickway) toExit 113. get off ramp and go south onRoute 209 for two miles. Make a left onHaven Road (after Moose Lodge) whichgoes across the Bashakill. At the end,make a right on South Road, go two milesand look for the vines and the BashaKillvineyards sign. We are across from theboat launch and public parking area. 

Page 26: Hudson Valley Wine Magazine Fall 2012

ADAIR VINEYARDS is a small family-owned winery and vineyard located in the scenicand historic Hudson Valley. Jim Adair established the winery and vineyard in 1985 whenhe planted his first vine, and opened the tasting room in 1989. When we acquired thewinery in early 1997, it was the realization of a life-long ambition inspired by family heritage and brought to fruition by formal enology and viticulture studies in Californiaand further training in a Pennsylvania vineyard.

We often compare a visit to Adair Vineyards to a step into one of the 19th centuryHudson River School artist’s paintings. Asher Durand’s 1840 painting “The Solitary Oak”appears on our wine label. And, we have a solitary oak standing at the head of our vineyard. In his painting are cows, horses, mountains, and a stream. Our winery ishoused in a barn, over 200 years old, once occupied by cows and horses, and has a stream running by with the Shawangunk Mountains in the background.

The tasting room and gift shop are located in the loft of the barn and the winemakingarea is below. Our vineyard is located behind the winery. We believe in the simple andnatural approach to our winemaking. We allow our grapes to fully mature so that we are able to produce wines characteristic of the grape vari-eties. In order to maintain the highest quality, our winesare created firstly with estate-grown grapes and then supplemented with additional varieties grown at a localfarm with which we have a close working relationship.

We currently produce more than 30,000 bottles and lookforward to increasing our production. Our wines rangefrom dry to slightly sweet. We have won numerous awardsfor our wines.

24 HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer/Fall 2012

ADAIR VINEYARDSEstablished 1985

MEET THE WINEMAKERMarc Stopkie, winemaker, attended NapaValley College for enology and viticulture.After completion of his studies at NapaValley College he interned at variousCalifornia wineries throughout the state’swine regions. While wanting to return tohis East Coast roots, he secured a positionas winemaker/vineyard manager at aPennsylvania winery.

While working at this winery, he becamefamiliar with the East Coast growing climate and the French-American hybridgrape varietals. While working there hesearched for his own winery and found itin the Hudson Valley. Marc now growsFrench-American hybrid varietals suited tothe region, as well as experimenting andgrowing various varietals from Minnesotaand Russia.

Marc’s winemaking style is rooted in the Old World way. He only uses grapes andfruit grown on the estate or within 15miles of the winery. He personally caresfor the vineyard and every grape processed.He does not rely on technology butinstead uses what is naturally occurring ineach varietal and season to create carefullyhandcrafted wines. By following this philosophy he is able to bring out the truecharacteristics of the fruit and terroir ofthe Hudson Valley.

VA R I E TA L S

S E Y VA L B L A N C

V I G NO L E S

C AYUG A WH I T E

V I D A L B L A N C

F RON T EN AC

MAR E CH A L F O CH

L E ON M I L LO T

D E C H AUN AC

B ACO N O I R

A visit to Adair Vineyards is a

step into one of the 19th century

Hudson River School artist’s

paintings.

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www.hvwinemag.com • Summer/Fall 2012 25

V I N E YA RDADAIR vINEYARDS

A DDR E SS52 Allhusen RoadNew Paltz, NY 12561

PHON E845-255-1377

EMA I [email protected]

WEBS I T Ewww.adairwine.com

OP ENMay–Oct: Sat & Sun, 11am–6pm Nov–Mid-Dec: Sat & Sun, 11am–5pmAll other times by appointment. 

TA S T I N G F E E S$5

TOUR SNot available

A C R E AG E15 acres

P RODUC T I O N2,500–3,000 cases  

OWNER SMarc and Lori Stopkie

MANAG E R SMarc and Lori Stopkie

W IN EMAK E RMarc Stopkie

EVENTS Taste our wines at the followingFarmer’s Markets(check website for more information):

Muscoot Farms, Katonah: Every Sunday

Cold Spring: Second Saturday of themonth, year round

Schenectady Green Market

Schenectady Farm Market

Walden Farm Market

Peekskill Farm Market

Beacon Farm Market

Red Hook Farm Market

Albany (Empire State Plaza and Downtown)

THE ESSENTIALS

IN THE SPOTLIGHT

PECHEA delicious dessert wine made from 100% White, Yellow, and Donut peachesgrown exclusively at Little River Farm inHudson, NY.

In multiple years, this wine has wonDouble Gold, Gold, and the ValerieEldridge Cup (Best of Show) in theHudson Valley Wine Competition.

GETTING HEREFROM NYS THRUWAY (I-87): Take Exit 18(Poughkeepsie/New Paltz). After tollbooth,turn left (Rt. 299). At 3rd stoplight, turn left(Rt. 32 South). Proceed about 5.5 miles toAllhusen Road. Turn left. Adair vineyards isa big red barn about 1/2 mile on the right. 

ULSTER

Page 28: Hudson Valley Wine Magazine Fall 2012

26 HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer/Fall 2012

IN 1982, THE BALDWINS purchased a farm which hadbeen the Hardenburgh Estate since 1786, including a stonehome and 18,000 square feet of out buildings situated on37 acres of prime alluvial farmland.

The first vineyard was planted in May 1982, and a secondvineyard the next year, bringing total vine acreage up to 10acres. In the Fall of 1982, the first vintage was vinifiedusing grapes purchased locally, and the winery opened inJuly 1983 with five wines, three of which were awardedmedals at the New York State Wine Competition.

Baldwin Vineyards has spent the past 30 years garneringawards for their Chardonnay, Merlot, Riesling, BrutChampagne, Port and a dozen other wines, but pioneeredNew York’s entry into the premium fruit wine category.

Starting with their Strawberry Wine in 1985 (Best fruitwine at the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition2006 and 2007); they added Apple, Blueberry, Cherry andBlack Raspberry wines which have gathered many moreawards. The Black Raspberry Wine, alone, has won eightGold Medals in various wine competitions, in addition tomany other awards.

The Baldwins’ philosophy on fruit wines, which began atrend throughout the entire Northeast, was to vinify fruitwines as premium varietal wines, rather than the old tradi-tion of adding water and other less expensive fruit juices tobring down the cost. Instead of making the fruit wines dry, as was the tradition, theBaldwins finished their fruit wines so they tasted like the fruit they started from.

Baldwin hosts a Strawberry, Chocolate & Wine Festival, serving their famous strawberryand chocolate desserts along with a wine tasting of their fifteen different wines. There aresixteen Festivals scheduled for 2012. Visit our website www.baldwinvineyards.com fordates and times.

BALDWIN VINEYARDSEstablished 1982

MEET THE WINEMAKERS Pat and Jack Baldwin were living in NewJersey in 1981, enjoying wine as a hobbysince their first visit to Europe in 1974had started their “love affair” with wine. As Director of Les Amis du Vins’ premiernew chapter, Pat had 100 members whomet monthly to taste the world’s greatwines under the tutelage of wine indus-try’s notables, including Marcia Mondavi.It was a club member who informed Patthat world class wines were being pro-duced 50 miles to the north, in New York’sHudson River region. After visiting one of the region’s dozen wineries that summer,Pat remarked, “That would be a nice wayto live.” So together the Baldwins spentthe balance of the year looking at potentialwinery sites in Pennsylvania, New Jerseyand New York.

During a blizzard in February 1982, theyvisited a 37-acre farm in the Hudson Riverregion. After walking the property inbelow-freezing weather, with six inches ofsnow already on the ground, they “boughtthe farm,” on two conditions:1. The town would allow them to put up a sign – “Baldwin Vineyards,” and

2. Cornell University would inspect thesite and declare it fit for grape growing.

Both conditions passed, and in July 1982,the Baldwins took title to the property.Yet, not wanting to wait until Spring ofthe following year, the Baldwins plantedtheir first vineyard in May before theyofficially owned the property, and beforethey could improve the lot. And so, defying all logic, they had their vineyard,Baldwin Vineyards!

With Pat’s unique talent for organizing anddeveloping, and utilizing the services oftwo wine consultants, the winery openedin July 1983. They sold out of their firstyear’s wine in just a few months. Then in1985, one of their consultants brought theBaldwins a bottle of 1919 elderberry winefound in a cellar of an old house. Not ableto find any elderberries, they contracted fortwo tons of strawberries, and made theirvery first batch of strawberry wine. It be-came their best seller, and began garneringat least one Gold Medal each year since.

W IN E S

M I S T D I G R E C O

MEMOR I E SBrut Champagne

CH ARDONNAY

POR T

MER LO T

C L A R E T

EMB E R SSoft, Fruity Red

I L L U S I O N S Off-dry white wine

JOS EPH ’ S V I N TAG ESemi-sweet

A P P L E

LATE HARVEST RIESLING

ANTHONY ’S V INTAGELight sparkling

R A S P B E R RY

CH E RRY

B LU E B E R RY

S T R AWB ERRY

I C E W I N E

Instead of making their fruit wines

dry, the Baldwins finish their fruit

wines so they taste like the fruit

they started from.

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GETTING HEREFROM Rt. 17: Exit 116 on Rt. 17 (soon tobe Rt. 86), take Rt. 302 North to Pine Bush.At the first traffic light in Pine Bush, gostraight through the light onto Maple Avenue(don’t make a left or right onto Rt. 52/MainStreet). Follow the signs for one mile, andthe old stone house and winery will be onthe right side. Baldwin vineyards is on the Orange/ulstercounty border in southeastern New York.gPS co-ordinates are -74.293735, and41.618957.

V I N E YA RDBALDWIN vINEYARDS

A DDR E SS176 Hardenburgh Road Pine Bush, NY 12566

PHON E845-744-2226

FA X845-744-6321

EMA I [email protected]

WEBS I T Ewww.baldwinvineyards.com

OP ENJuly–Oct: every day except Mon & Tues12pm–5pm Apr–Jun: Thurs, Fri, Sat, Sun, 12pm–5pmNov–Dec: Thurs, Fri, Sat, Sun, 12pm–5pm

C LO S E DEaster, Thanksgiving, Christmas

TA S T I N G F E E S$7 includes tasting glass$15/pp for festivals, or FREE with the purchase of six bottles of wine, includes tasting glass

TOUR SNot available

A C R E AG E37 acres

P RODUC T I O N2,500 cases

OWNERPat and Jack Baldwin

MANAG E RPat and Jack Baldwin

W IN EMAK E RPat and Jack Baldwin

EVENTSStrawberry, Chocolate & WineFestival – visit our website for acomplete listing of dates and times

THE ESSENTIALS

IN THE SPOTLIGHTRecognizing that wine goes best withfood, the Baldwins started a tradition in 2006 to have frequent Strawberry,Chocolate & Wine Festivals, whichinvolve tasting all of our wines accom-panied by three chocolate/strawberrydesserts.

The food makes all the vibrant flavors inthe wines stand out, and the desserts tastemuch better accompanied by the variouswines. Imagine tasting cheesecake with aPort or Ice Wine, strawberry shortcakewith Brut Champagne or Late HarvestRiesling, or chocolate desserts withStrawberry or Black Raspberry Wine.The Ice Wine is our newest wine addition– a Riesling frozen on the vines until thejuice is like a sweet, intense syrup. Thesevery special grapes have a full-bodied luscious flavor like no other grape wine –making it the perfect dessert wine.

Page 30: Hudson Valley Wine Magazine Fall 2012

28 HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer/Fall 2012

WINE HAS BECOME VERY IMPORTANT to Americans. Moreover, we are drinkingincreasing amounts of wine grown in our own native soils, as well as, and frequently inpreference to, wines originating in famous Old World regions. This acceptance of our ownwines is quite a recent development. It has come about only through the efforts of a fewAmerican wine lovers who are determined to demonstrate that fine winemaking, both asan art and as a business, is well within the capability of our nation’s climate, soils, and talents. Hundreds of stories could and will be told of the difficulties and rewards experi-enced by these dedicated people during this accomplishment.

One such story begins appropriately on a vineyard in theHudson River Valley, the oldest wine district in the UnitedStates. Wine has been made from the grapes of this regionsince the 17th century when the French Huguenots grewvines and made wine in nearby New Paltz. Among theyoung farmers attracted to this burgeoning industry in theearly 1800s was Andrew Jackson Caywood who bought andplanted a handsome piece of land high above the river in aneven older Hudson region grape growing community, dat-ing from 1772. When the community incorporated as theVillage of Marlborough, in 1788, a cluster of grapes carvedin its seal commemorated its major crop. Caywood becamean outstanding viticulturist and leading authority in thedevelopment of new grape varieties.

When the Miller family bought the Caywood property in1957 and renamed it Benmarl, it had outlived all of its earlycontemporaries to become America’s oldest professional vine-yard. The Millers rebuilt its steep terraces, replanting themwith European wine grapes, both hybrid and vinifera, carry-ing on Caywood’s private experimentation at a time whenNew York’s wine industry was at a low ebb, and long beforeNew York State officially began experimental wine study.

In 2006, the Spaccarelli family purchased Benmarl Winery from the Miller family, with theintention of reviving the spirit of Hudson Valley viticulture and the process of wine mak-ing. They have proven to be a new face to an old tradition. By replanting many of theabandoned vineyards and refurbishing the estate, they have managed to bring a new lightto Benmarl, without sacrificing the tradition and history that makes it so special. And, car-rying on the tradition of experimentation, they have planted new hybrid varieties likeTraminette, as well as Old World vinifera.

Benmarl and the Spaccarelli family are dedicated to the renaissance of New York’s firstvineyard region, and have faith that the Hudson Valley will be recognized throughout theworld as a producer of high quality wines, enhanced by a regional character which sets itapart from any others in the world.

BENMARL WINERY Established 1957

MEET THE WINEMAKER There seems to be a theme of “wine-maker” made wines that has dominatedthe American wine scene in recent years.New World winemakers are gainingcelebrity status, crafting exquisite winesthat not only showcase their own style,but also reflect trends in the market. Thatbeing said, there has been a shift awayfrom terroir-driven wines. New Worldwines are, in certain ways, losing theirsense of place.

At Benmarl Winery, the winemakingprocess has been increasingly focused notonly on varietal characteristics, but on thisidea of expressing terroir. They strive tomake not only great wines, but greatwines that reflect where they are from.

“The decisions that we make in the cellarare very important,” says the winemakerand GM of Benmarl. “But not as impor-tant as the quality and consistency of thefruit that we grow and purchase.”

In recent years the Spaccarelli family hasbeen refurbishing their existing vineyardsand planting new ones. Investment in newtemperature-controlled tanks, French andAmerican Barrels, and a state-of-the-artbottling line, has added to their focus onquality and consistency.

The whites at Benmarl are generally bot-tled young, capturing their youthful fruitand often times minerally characteristics.The Chardonnay component of theirSlate Hill White is the only white thatsees oak. The reds are all carefully aged inFrench, American, and Hungarian oakbarrels, striving to strike balance betweenflavor, aroma, and texture.

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W IN E S

R I E S L I N G

S E Y VA L B L A N C

S L AT E H I L L WH I T E

T R AM I N E T T E

D R Y R O S É

BACO NO I R

CAB ERNE T F R ANC

CABERNET SAUVIGNON

F RON T EN AC

MER LO T

S Y R AH

Z I N FA ND E L

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GETTING HEREFROM NYS THRUWAY (I-87): Take Exit 17(Newburgh); then take I-84 East and exit at Rt. 9W Newburgh (just before theNewburgh/Beacon Bridge); Rt. 9W Northabout 4.5 miles, then turn left on ConwayRd., keep to the right. The Benmarl signand entrance are 1 mile on the right.FROM ORANGE COUNTY & PA: Rt. 9WNewburgh (just before the Newburgh/Beacon Bridge); Route 9W north about 4.5miles, then turn left on Conway Rd., keep tothe right. The Benmarl sign and entranceare 1 mile on the right.FROM PUTNAM COUNTY & CT:Take I-84 West and cross the Newburgh/Beacon Bridge; Route 9W North about 4.5miles, then turn left on Conway Rd; keep tothe right. The Benmarl sign and entranceare 1 mile on the right.

Buses please call in advance.

V I N E YA RDBENMARL WINERY

A DDR E SS156 Highland AvenueMarlboro, NY 12542

PHON E845-236-4265

FA X845-236-7271

EMA I [email protected]

WEBS I T Ewww.benmarl.com

OP EN12pm–6pm, every day

C LO S E DThanksgiving, ChristmasNew Years Day, Easter

TA S T I N G F E E S$8 for 6 wines

TOUR SOur working cellar is open for views

A C R E AG E37 acres

P RODUC T I O N3,700 cases

OWNERvictor Spaccarelli 

MANAG E RMatthew Spaccarelli  

W IN EMAK E RMatthew Spaccarelli

EVENTS (check website for updated listings)

Sept 22–23 Annual Harvest GrapeStomping Festival, 12–7pm

Oct 6–7 Annual Harvest GrapeStomping Festival, 12–7pm

For a list of Shawangunk Trailevents go to: gunkswine.com

THE ESSENTIALS

IN THE SPOTLIGHTESTATE BACO NOIRBottled every year in May, everyone impatiently awaits our award-winningBaco Noir. A light to medium bodiedwine with the classic peppery red cherryfruit that only Baco can offer. Benmarlhas been producing Baco Noir for fifty years.

SLATE HILL WHITELight to medium bodied, floral with aslight mandarin orange and citrus flavor.Pale yellow with fresh acidity. An attrac-tive white to enjoy on the hazy, lazy daysof summer. Bring this chilled wine to thebeach and while away the hours.

CABERNET FRANCEarthy with notes of raspberry and cherry.Lightly oaked with a spicy finish of blackpepper and vanilla.

Page 32: Hudson Valley Wine Magazine Fall 2012

30 HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer/Fall 2012

BRIMSTONE HILL IS AMONG the older group of Hudson Valley vineyards andwineries. The actual vineyard dates back to 1969 when Richard and Valerie Eldridgeplanted some 20 varieties of “French hybrid” grapes on approximately a half acre of sloping land. The Eldridges were (and still are) dedicated oenophiles. This tradition really stems from Valerie’s background. She was French by origin, and she grew up in an extended French winemaking family from the Loire Valley.

In the 1970s the Eldridge vineyards expanded to about 3-4 acres of grapes. The decisionto try a small winery was made in 1978-79, a time period when there was considerableinterest in establishing smaller wineries throughout the Hudson Valley. There was (andstill is) much to learn about appropriate grape varieties, wine types and wine-makingtechniques for this region. Initially, the French-American hybrid grape varietals seemed tobe the most appropriate for better wines. As the 1980s progressed some of the traditionalEuropean vitis vinifera varieties showed considerable promise.

Then, as Cornell became better focused on higher quality wine grape varieties (rememberCornell has had a grape breeding program for generations), some of their interspecifichybrid varieties have blossomed in the Hudson Valley. Brimstone Hill has worked with allof these categorical groupings in a strong effort to make distinctive regional wines, whichwe are proud of.

As for size, our vineyards have expanded considerably; wenow have about 10 acres producing, and about 3 to 4 acreswhich are not yet in production. Our operation continuesto be somewhat experimental in nature. One of the pio-neering ventures we are very proud of is the developmentof a sparkling wine, which is made in the tradition of theFrench champagnes. Our current production is between7,500 and 10,000 bottles per year.

BRIMSTONE HILL VINEYARDEstablished 1982

MEET THE WINEMAKER Richard Eldridge, owner and winemaker,stumbled into wine through marriage tothe late Valerie de Bourmont who intro-duced him to wine. In a sense, the rest ishistory. The Eldridges became fascinatedwith the possibilities of growing and mak-ing very good wines here in the East. Wetend to think of wine as one of the moreimportant staples of the diet.

The winemaking process in the East, how-ever, is much more challenging than inCalifornia. This is largely due to theEastern climatic conditions coupled witha limited tradition of wine and viticulture.Most of the California wine grape varietiescannot handle our cold winters and short,rainy, growing seasons. Further, Easterngrapes tend to be significantly higher inacidity and lower in sugar than theirCalifornia counterparts. This conditioncan be addressed, but the process doesbecome more complicated. The higheracidity does have a major advantage inmaking both sweeter wines and sparklingwines. The drier table wines tend to be onthe lighter side with a certain zesty quality.At Brimstone Hill we are committed tothe task of making better wines which willplease our customers.

W IN E S

DOMAINE BOURMONTSPARKL ING W INE

S E Y VA L B L A N C

CH ARDONNAY

V I N R OUG E

C A B E RN E T F R A N C

NO I R E T

C AY UG A WH I T E

V I D A L B L A N C

R I E S L I N G

Brimstone Hill has worked to make

distinctive regional wines, which we

are proud of.

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V I N E YA RDBRIMSTONE HILL vINEYARD

A DDR E SS61 Brimstone Hill RoadPine Bush, NY 12566

PHON E845-744-2231

FA X845-744-4782

EMA I [email protected]

WEBS I T Ewww.brimstonehillwine.com

OP ENMemorial Day–Columbus Day: Fri, Sat, Sun & Mon, 11:30am–5:30pmColumbus Day–Memorial Day: Sat & Sun, 11:30am–5:30pm 

TA S T I N G F E E S$3 for table wines available$1.50 for sparkling wine

TOUR SAvailable by appointment

A C R E AG E10 acres

P RODUC T I O N625-850 cases

OWNERRichard Eldridge

MANAG E RRichard Eldridge

W IN EMAK E RRichard Eldridge

EVENTSChampagne, Chocolate and Wine –A Valentines Day event held everyPresidents’ Weekend (Sat & Sun)

THE ESSENTIALS

IN THE SPOTLIGHTNOIRET

This is a fairly recent NY State red grapewhich was developed by Cornell. It pro-duces a very high-quality red wine withgood tannins and overtones of black pepper.Noiret picks up an added richness when itis aged in oak barrels, and it accompaniesmost foods very well. It has proven to bevery popular in our tasting room.

CABERNET FRANC

Thirty years ago, Cabernet Franc wasalmost unknown in Eastern winemakingand viticultural circles, but it has devel-oped a steady and growing followingamong our customers. At Cornell it hasproven to be the most winter hardy of thetraditional European wine grape varieties,and it is reasonably disease-resistant. AtBrimstone Hill we vinify Cabernet Francalong the lines of the Loire Valley CabernetFranc wines. It is excellent with red meats,and it accompanies pasta dishes nicely.

CAYUGA WHITE

A semi-sweet wine with a delicate flavorand aroma. People frequently say that itpossesses overtones of pear. Cayuga Whiteis a great sipping wine on a hot summerafternoon, and it goes nicely with fruitsand/or desserts. It is our most popularwine year in and year out.

DOMAINE BOURMONTSPARKLING WINE

Our sparkling wine is a light dry (brut)sparkler made in the full Méthode Champ-enoise tradition. This means that the second fermentation occurs in the bottle,that is, the actual bottle in which the wineis served. It is a great wine to have withany celebration.

GETTING HEREFROM NYS THRUWAY (I-87): Take Exit 16,Rte. 17W to Exit 119. Turn right on Rt. 302to Pine Bush, left on Route 52, go 1 mile toNew Prospect Rd. Turn right and go ½ mileto Brimstone Hill Rd., then turn left. FROM NORTH & ALBANY: I-87 South toExit 18, Route 299W to left on LibertyvilleRd. (u.C.7) which becomes Bruynswyck Rd.Make right on Brimstone Hill Rd. FROM EAST & CT: Route 84 West, takeExit 8 to Route 52W to Pine Bush. See above. FROM WEST: Route 84E to Exit 4 to 17W.to Exit 119. See above from South.

Page 34: Hudson Valley Wine Magazine Fall 2012

32 HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer/Fall 2012

LOCATED IN THE HAMLET of Bloomington, there is a small commercial winery in New York’s Hudson Valley, perhaps the smallest in the state. There is novineyard at Cereghino Smith and in the tradition of Old World négociants, the winemakers select and source their grapes from small growers in California, New Yorkand Washington State.

Although small, Cereghino Smith wines are usuallyquite robust, inspired by classic European winemakersand their garagistes counterparts. As a working wineryin a 1,000 square foot, 150-year-old renovated barn,Cereghino Smith keeps no tasting room hours althoughbarrel tastings can be arranged by appointment.

Emphasis is on quality rather than quantity . . . grapesbeing hand-sorted and the vinification being more arti-sanal than scientific. To preserve the true character andrichness of our wine, “time and gravity” is the preferredmethod of filtration.

In 1999, Cereghino Smith began their adventure onHouston Street in New York City’s Lower East Side.After a family trip to Liguria and Piemonte, PaulaCereghino excitedly showed Fred Smith pictures of herself posing next to giant barrels in Barbaresco. Twodays later, he presented her with a book on winemakinginscribed, “If you can make it here, you can make it anywhere . . . Bon Chance.” Knowing that Paula’sgrandfather, Joseph Cereghino, had been a winemaker/farmer in Tacoma Washington via Genoa, Fred saw this as an opportunity to both carry on the family tra-dition and guarantee a steady supply of wine. Afterhoning their winemaking skills in the city, they were off to the Hudson Valley to start a winery where their dream became a reality.

CEREGHINO SMITHEstablished 2007

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S MEET THE WINEMAKERS After a year of searching, we fell in lovewith and purchased an old stone Huguenothouse in Ulster County built in 1784,complete with a couple of acres and a circa1860 barn with a dirt floor. Just in time forthe 2004 crush, the barn was renovatedand transformed into our winery. Althoughthe winery was ready, the harsh winters of2003 and 2004 devastated most of NewYork’s grape crop (other wineries were call-ing us for grapes), leaving us no choice butto contract for out of state fruit. In the tra-dition of Italian-American winemakers inBrooklyn, only California grapes were usedin our first Bloomington vintage.

We carried on with California fruit until2008 when we used New York CabernetFranc for the first time. We were delightedwith the wine’s bright acidity, crisp notes ofred orchard fruits and the resulting lowalcohol. The bi-coastal nature of CereghinoSmith was born. Being that Paula grew upin Seattle and Fred was born in Manhattan,it all seemed to make sense. West Coastmeeting East Coast seemed to be ratherbalanced and symbiotic.

Fred’s interest in wine developed whiletouring Europe as the bassist for influentialrock band, “Television”. He was introducedto fine wines by generous promoters andwine-savvy English roadies.

With a degree in Art and Philosophy, Paulasubsequently found herself in retail andwholesale. Her time at Sherry LehmannWine Merchants and Le Du’s Winesproved to be a true wine education andinspiration.

Paula Cereghino and Fred Smith wear allhats as owners, winemakers, label designersand sales staff.

VA R I E TA L S

P E T I T E S I R A H

WASH I N G TONS TAT E S Y R AH

AMADOR C OUN T YC A S Y R AH

MOURV E DR E

G R EN ACH E

N Y C A B E RN E TF R ANC

S ANG I O V E S E

P E T I T V E R DO T

S AU V I G NON B L A N C

V I O GN I E R

B L E ND S

E AT E N B Y B E A R S

ROCK & R O L L R E D

L I T T L E H OU S E

S U P E R H UD SON

G ENOA

TA R R AGON A

B I A N C A

L I T T L E H OU S EWH I T E

PHOTOS: Jennifer May (above left); Christina Mae Photography (center)

Emphasis is on quality rather than

quantity . . . grapes being hand-

sorted and the vinification being

more artisanal than scientific.

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W IN E RYCEREgHINO SMITH

A DDR E SSPO Box 1932583 Route 32Bloomington, NY 12411

PHON E845-334-8282

EMA I [email protected]@cereghinosmith.com

WEBS I T Ewww.cereghinosmith.com

OP ENTastings by appointment

A C R E AG E2 acres

P RODUC T I O N600 cases

OWNER SPaula Cereghino, Fred Smith

MANAG E R SPaula Cereghino, Fred Smith

W IN EMAK E R SPaula Cereghino, Fred Smith

EVENTS (check website for more tastings andevents as scheduled)

Sept 8–9 Hudson Valley Wine and Food Festival Dutchess County Fairgrounds

Sept 15 Boldt Castle Wine Festivaland Farmers Market Heart Island, ThousandIslands, NY

Sept 22–23 Stems & Steins Wine, Beer and Food Festival Old Forge, NY

Oct 6 9th Annual Wine Festival at Bethel Woods Center for the Arts Bethel, NY

Oct 7 Highland Hudson FestFoot of the PedestrianBridge, Highland, NY

Oct 13–14 Hunter Mountain Wine &Brew FestivalHunter, NY

THE ESSENTIALS

IN THE SPOTLIGHTSUPER HUDSON 2010Inspired by the Super Tuscan producers ofItaly, Cereghino Smith explores the symbi-otic nature of New York’s Cabernet Francand California’s Sangiovese accented witha touch of the Hudson Valley’s own BacoNoir, Chambourcin and Chelois. . .SuperHudson. This Hudson Valley medley washarvested from the Bedford-PierroVineyard at Flint Mine Hill.

EATEN BY BEARS 2010 This “Mediterranean” blend, a quintet ofrobust varietals featuring Mourvedre, PetitVerdot, Petite Sirah, Cabernet Franc andSangiovese, appears on restaurant winelists at the Culinary Institute of America. The label features the work of WilliamBeard 1825-1900. Our friend BernieMooney said, “You’ll get eaten by bears”when we moved upstate and “I’ll buy acase of wine if you name it that!”…hencethe silly name and fabulous label.

ZWEIGELT PROJECT Bob Bedford and Linda Pierro introducedus to this Austrian Wine grape beinggrown in their Hudson Valley vineyard atFlint Mine Hill. We made a small produc-tion in 2010 and the Zweigelt Project was born. Check out its progress at: www.zweigeltproject.com

GETTING HERECall for directions845.334.8282

Page 36: Hudson Valley Wine Magazine Fall 2012

GLORIE FARM WINERY WAS CONCEIVED in a love affair between agriculture andwine. We have been growing grapes on our Marlboro hillside farm for home winemakersand many Valley wineries for nearly 30 years. At an elevation of 800 feet and with south-eastern slopes, our location is considered one of the premier vineyard sites in the HudsonValley, and virtually all visitors’ first reaction upon arrival is to comment on the amazing,35-mile, panoramic view from this spot.

Estate-grown grapes make up ninety percent of our wines.Hudson Valley standards Seyval Blanc and Cabernet Franclead the way, followed by DeChaunac, Cayuga White andVidal Blanc, and more recently Riesling and Marquette.With these and others, we currently have a dozen varietieson trellis and continuously evaluate new and existing cultivars for future plantings. Our tree fruit, brambles andribes are the sources for our fruit wines. Black currants,members of the ribe family, were banned from propagationin New York State in 1911. The ban was lifted in 2003,and we planted cuttings soon after, reaping our first harvestin 2008. An intensely-flavored, deep red, sweet-tart winewas produced, a unique, rich taste experience that our customers immediately embraced.

Surrounded by the vibrant orchards and vineyards on our54-acre fruit farm, a large, red-roofed barn built in 1913was partially renovated between 2004 and 2007 for thewinery and a tasting room. In the comfortable rustic elegance of our tasting room, we have but one objective –to be sure that each customer leaves having had a positiveexperience. We strive to provide visitors with a friendly,approachable atmosphere where they may select from anextensive list of gently handcrafted wines for tasting. Dry,semi-dry and sweet; red, white, and fruit wines; you’ll findthem all here. We have a style for every palate.

Agriculture is a way of life for us. Only 2% of our nation’spopulation is involved in farming, and we are proud members of this innovative, resilient group. We use sustainable practices including a solar electric systeminstalled in 2008 that produces 100% of the electricityused by the winery. Utilizing barrels made from New YorkState oak helps to reduce our carbon footprint and supports regional businesses. It is our hope that 100 yearsfrom now this property will still be a farm. In addition, we are members of theShawangunk Wine Trail, Hudson Valley Wine and Grape Association, New York Wine and Grape Foundation, Cornell Cooperative Extension, New York Farm Bureau, and the Marlborough Agricultural Alliance (Meet Me in Marlborough).

34 HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer/Fall 2012

GLORIE FARM WINERYEstablished 2004

MEET THE WINEMAKERS It has been said – and it is true – thatwinemaking starts in the vineyard. Eachyear we make small changes in our vine-yards, which we believe will enhance ourgrapes’ varietal flavors. In the fall of eachyear, we continuously monitor the crop soas to harvest at peak conditions. Onceharvested, we evaluate what winemakingstrategy should be pursued. There aremany styles and techniques from which tochoose. We select the best one dependingon the grape variety and its condition.

The winemaking process at Glorie FarmWinery is a team effort. It is directed byDoug, implemented by our consultant,Kristop Brown, and rounded out byMaryEllen’s sensory and blending skills.The result is wine that everyone can identify with and enjoy.

WH I T E W I N E SS E Y VA L B L A N C

R I E S L I N G

LUN A R WH I T E

J UMP I N J A Z Z

RUMPLE PUMPK IN TM

Available Labor Day

SWE E T C A R O L I N E

P E A CH W I N E

R E D W I N E SD E C H AUN AC O A K

R E D MONK E Y

C A B E RN E T F R A N C2 0 1 0

S YN E R G Y

WOR L D

R E D Q U A R T E T

J I B B E R J A B B E R

C ANDY A S S R E D TM

B L A C K C U R R AN TW I N E

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In the comfortable rustic

elegance of our tasting

room, we have but one

objective – to be sure

that each customer leaves

having had a positive

experience.

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www.hvwinemag.com • Summer/Fall 2012 35

V I N E YA RDgLORIE FARM WINERY

A DDR E SS40 Mountain RoadMarlboro, NY 12542

PHON E845-236-3265

FA X845-236-3265

EMA I [email protected]

WEBS I T Ewww.gloriewine.com

OP ENSaturday, Sunday & Monday holidaysMay–August, November–December:11:30am–5:30pm September–October: 11:30am–6pmAlso by appointment and by chance

TA S T I N G F E E SYour choice of five wines for $5. Souvenir glass included. Spectacular view, no charge.

TOUR SBy request

A C R E AG E54 in land, 20 in fruit, 6 of which are grapes

P RODUC T I O N700 cases

OWNER SDouglas and MaryEllen glorie

MANAG E RDouglas and MaryEllen glorie

W IN EMAK E R SKristop Brown and Doug glorie

EVENTSFor a complete listing of events visit:www.gunkswine.com

THE ESSENTIALS

IN THE SPOTLIGHTSEYVAL BLANCVinified in the classic style – dry and crisp. Our answer to CaliforniaChardonnay.

RIESLINGSemi-dry with flavors of green melon,pear and honey.

RUMPLE PUMPKINTM

With its subtle flavors, it’s perfect forcocktail hour, with baked fruit dessertsand just cozying up to a warm, toasty fire. This is your fall/winter wine.

PEACH WINESweet, delicious summer treat! Made fromfresh, ripe peaches.

CABERNET FRANCBarrel aging in New York Oak integratedperfectly with this wine’s natural fruit flavor and gentle tannins.

CANDY ASS REDTM

Need we say more? A lollipop in a glass;this wine is pure fun! Like grape juice onsteroids.

BLACK CURRANT WINEAn intensely flavored, deep red, sweet-tartwine made from our black currants.

GETTING HEREFROM THE NYS THRUWAY (I-87): Exit 17 (Newburgh). Take I-84 East to Exit10. Turn left onto 9W North. Drive 7 miles tothe village of Marlboro. Turn left onto CountyRoute 14. Drive 1.5 miles to the stop sign,and turn right onto County Route 11. Driveone mile and turn left onto Reservoir Road.Drive one mile and turn right onto MountainRoad. Winery will be on the left.

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Page 38: Hudson Valley Wine Magazine Fall 2012

36 HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer/Fall 2012

“WE ARE NOT A WINE COMPANY therefore we don’t have a corporate mission. Weare a family that happens to have a passion for wine. We are a family that loves each othervery much. We fight with passion and forgive quickly. We call each other 20 times a day.We know that if we win together, we lose together. We think if it’s easy, you’re probablydoing it wrong. We believe in working 7 days a week, 364 days a year. We can’t makedecisions easily and we overthink everything we do. We believe in giving more when youwant to give up. We think if you work half days that means 12 hours. We drink a lot ofcoffee and a lot of wine. We don’t believe in wine rating sys-tems. We believe that you should like what you drink anddrink what you like. We like to laugh until we can’t breathe.We think it’s important to be able to laugh at yourself. Wefind things funny that most people wouldn’t. We believeyou don’t need to know all the answers; no one is smartenough to ask you all the questions. We think that if yourname is on the sign, you probably should be in the build-ing. We believe you should learn from others’ mistakes, youcan’t live long enough to make them all yourself. We don’thave a plan, we have a dream. We are not chasing ourdreams; we crush them and put them in bottles.”

Established in 2010, Robibero Winery is one of New York’snewest wineries, and the most recent addition to theShawangunk Wine Trail. The newly-planted estate vineyardis set on a 42-acre property that is nestled in and around thebreathtaking Shawangunk Ridge. This majestic location isjust a few miles from the historic town of New Paltz andonly an 85-mile scenic drive from NYC.

Robibero Winery is a family-friendly, pet-friendly establish-ment. The elegant tasting room includes a spacious concretebar, fireplace, 52” flat screen TV, and plenty of indoor seating. Outside, the 90-foot deck offers panoramic viewsoverlooking the vineyard and includes a pergola-coveredpatio on one side, and awning on the other. Along the lushlymanicured sloping fields of the property, you will find pic-nic benches that welcome you to bring your lunch, and anoutdoor fire-pit to keep you warm on those chilly nights.

From the tasting room to the cellar, the Robibero family istruly hands-on.

ROBIBERO WINERYEstablished 2010

MEET THE WINEMAKER Kristop Brown is considered one of themost technically gifted winemakers in theHudson Valley. Kristop’s winemaking origins began at Benmarl when he learnedto make wine under the apprenticeship of Eric Miller, son of Mark Miller. He further expanded his knowledge when heventured to the West Coast to practice hiscraft in Walla Walla, Washington. In 2011Kristop returned to his roots of winemak-ing when he joined forces with the newly-opened Robibero Winery.

Kristop and the Robiberos are producingpremium artisan wines that are distinctiveto their terroir. All of the wines are hand-crafted in small lots to express unique andcharming vintages, making them very limited in production. “There are postersand there are paintings. Our wines are likepaintings, hand-crafted and not mass produced like posters.”

To find out more about what’s going onin the tasting room, cellar and vineyard,become our fan at:Facebook.com/RobiberoFamilyVineyardsand follow us at:Twitter.com/Robiberowinery

W IN E S

S E R END I P I T Y Seyval Blanc/

Chardonnay

DRY R I E S L I N G

R I E S L I N G

A R C T I C R I E S L I N G

8 7 N O R TH Cayuga White/

Vidal Blanc

RO S É

P I N O T N O I R

R A B B I T ’ S F O O TBaco Noir/Merlot/

Cabernet Sauvignon

C A B E RN E T F R A N C

MER LO T

CABERNET SAUVIGNON

S Y R AH

All of the wines are hand-crafted in small lots to

express unique and charming vintages, making them

very limited in production.

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ULSTER

GETTING HEREFrom Exit 18 off NYS thruway (I-87):Turn left at traffic light onto Route 299/MainStreet. Follow Main Street through thevillage of New Paltz. Cross over the WallkillRiver’s small metal bridge. Bear left ontoLibertyville Road (Rt. 7) at the fork just pastWallkill view Farm. Follow for 4.5 miles andstay straight on Libertyville road as it mergeswith Albany Post road. Robibero Winery ison the right hand side of the road.

V I N E YA RDROBIBERO WINERY

A DDR E SS714 Albany Post RoadNew Paltz, NY 12561

PHON E845-255-9463 (WINE)

FA X914-693-9593

EMA I [email protected]

WEBS I T Ewww.Rnewyorkwine.com

OP ENJan–Feb: Sat & Sun, 11am–6pmMarch–June, Nov–Dec: Thurs–Sun, 11am–6pmJuly–Oct: Thur, Fri, Sun, Mon, 11am–6pm,Sat, 11am–8pm

C LO S E DThanksgiving, Christmas, New Years Day

TA S T I N G F E E S$7.00 

TOUR Svisit website for scheduled tourdates/times

A C R E AG E42 acres

P RODUC T I O N2,500 cases

OWNER SHarry and Carole Robibero

MANAG E RTiffany Robibero Selby

W IN EMAK E RKristop Brown

A SS I S TA N T W I N EMAK E RRyan Selby

EVENTS (Check website for full listing of events)

Live Music Every Weekend, 2–5pm

Aug 25 Winestock

THE ESSENTIALS

IN THE SPOTLIGHT

2010 DRY RIESLING Double Gold Medal Winner – FingerLakes International Wine CompetitionSilver Medal Winner – NY Wine & Food ClassicA delightful citrusy nose of pear andgrapefruit that leads into green apple andlime flavors on the palate. Dry and crispwith fresh acidity and subtle slate charac-ter. A lingering spicy pear finish with atouch of honey.

87 NORTH Silver Medal Winner – NY Wine & Food ClassicSilver Medal Winner – Hudson ValleyWine CompetitionNamed after the NYS Thruway, this winehas become a Robibero signature. A blendof 50% Vidal Blanc, 50% Cayuga White.Honeydew and grapefruit aromas with aclean, crisp refreshing finish.

Page 40: Hudson Valley Wine Magazine Fall 2012

STOUTRIDGE VINEYARD is a premium estate winery located in Marlboro, New York,70 miles north of Manhattan. We are members of the Shawangunk Wine Trail, as well asthe Meet Me In Marlborough Farm Trail.

The vineyards are half a mile from the beautiful Hudson River on the southeast facingslopes of a ridge of land on which grapevines and fruit trees have been continuouslyplanted for 200 years. The Marlboro area has a rich history of fruit and wine productionand during the 1800s was the principal supplier of fresh fruit for New York City.

Next to the winery is a picturesque and historic stone farmhouse known to elder locals as“The Homestead.” Its ten-foot-high fieldstone foundation was built around 1855 and wasdug out of the vineyard hillside. This house had a barn which, between 1902 and 1919,was the “Marono Winery.” Its one, dry-stacked stone foundation wall remains.

Our impressive new winery building directly on the site of the “1902” Marono Wineryfeatures a “gravity flow” style production with an emphasis on the use of traditional“hands-off ” winemaking techniques, which we believe are necessary to preserve the delicate fruit of our regional wines. Our spacious tasting room has an outdoor patio integrated with the old winery foundation wall.

Our solar photovoltaic array on the south roof of the production area is over 2,000 sq. ft. of cell area and canproduce 30 kW of electricity on a sunny day. Over theyear we expect to be a net producer of electricity withthe panels supplying more power than we use.

In our wine production area we use a series of electrichoists to lift entire tanks of wine in order to move thewine to different locations in the winery. This meansthat we don’t use a pump which is much less energy efficient than the hoist.

Ninety percent of our wines come from very local vine-yards. By using local grapes we reduce the amount offuel used for transportation to our crush pad. One of ourprimary goals at Stoutridge is to capture local flavor. Indeed, many of our wines are farm-centric where we bottle a wine that is made 100% from the vines of a small Hudson Valley farm, in an attempt to capture its authenticity.

38 HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer/Fall 2012

STOUTRIDGE VINEYARDEstablished 2006

MEET THE WINEMAKER At Stoutridge, there are many sustainablemethods employed which result in a lowenvironmental impact, as well as a smallercarbon footprint. We are involved in asustainability study with CornellUniversity to maximize their results inthese areas.

We subscribe to the “Slow Wine” phil-osophy of winemaking using minimalintervention and gravity winemakingapproach. This philosophy focuses ontechniques which make the best wine as a priority, rather than techniques whichbring a wine to the marketplace faster.

Speeding up the winemaking process is hard on the wine, and has a greater negative impact on the environment.Filtering is one example that rarelyimproves the quality of a wine, and it produces waste material that is difficult to dispose of in an eco-friendly manner.

At Stoutridge, by reducing or eliminatingfiltering, we have found that we also saveon production costs and even reduce ourcarbon footprint. Our unfiltered winesrequire a longer time to settle and to clarify, though. Our white wines, whetherbarreled or not, are bottled only after 11 months of aging.

The second key component of SlowWinemaking is the gravity method ofmaking wine without the use of pumps.The lack of turbulence in the transfer of wine from tank to tank is also a key to retaining the quality of flavor of thegrapes in the finished wine.

VA R I E TA L S

P I N O T B L A N C

V I D A L B L A N C

MUSC AT

R I E S L I N G

P I N O T N O I R

S A N G I O V E S E

T E R O L D E GO

R E F O S CO

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www.hvwinemag.com • Summer/Fall 2012 39

V I N E YA RDSTOuTRIDgE vINEYARD

A DDR E SS10 Ann Kaley LaneMarlboro, NY 12542

PHON E845-236-7620

FA X845-236-7621

EMA I [email protected]

WEBS I T Ewww.stoutridge.com

OP ENFriday–Sunday: 11am–6pm, all year

C LO S E DMonday–Thursday

TA S T I N G F E E S$5 for 5 tastes includes complimentary glass

TOUR S$30.00 for winemaker tour of gravity winery

A C R E AG E10 acres of grapes

P RODUC T I O N4,000 cases

OWNERStephen Osborn, Kim Wagner

MANAG E RStephen Osborn

W IN EMAK E RStephen Osborn

EVENTSFor a complete list of events visit:www.shawangunkwinetrail.com

THE ESSENTIALS

IN THE SPOTLIGHTCABERNET FRANC ROSÉ

A bright rosé wine in the classic Europeandry fruit-forward style. Matured in largecasks for a year to bring out bouquet andsurprising complexity.

GRAVITAS

A blend of the locally grown red grapes ina deep rich luscious red wine. Complexand inviting. Delicious now but can becellared for many years.

SEYVAL BLANCThe signature white varietal of theHudson Valley. Dry fresh subtle fruit andmineral flavored wine so successful inseafood and especially shellfish parings.

CABERNET FRANC/NOIRET

This wine combines the spice characteris-tics of white and black pepper of theNoiret grape with the green bell pepper of Cabernet Franc. A classic interplaybetween spice and vegetable flavors makesan ideal wine for veal, beef, or game birds.50% Cabernet Franc /50% Noiret.Unfiltered and unfined.

GETTING HEREFROM NYS THRUWAY (RT. 87): Exit 17(Newburgh). Take Interstate 84 East to Exit 10 for Rt. 9W North. go 7 miles to thehamlet of Marlboro. Turn left onto CountyRoute 14, Western Avenue. After 0.3 milesmake the first right onto Prospect St. andkeep to the left. After 0.3 miles make thefirst left onto Ann Kaley Lane. Proceed tothe parking lot at the end of the street.

ULSTER

Page 42: Hudson Valley Wine Magazine Fall 2012

RECOGNIZED BY HUDSON VALLEY Magazine as “one of the Valley’s most ambitious wineries,” Whitecliffproduces fine, complex wines that stand out both here inthe Hudson Valley, and on the world wine stage. We have a gorgeous site, with spectacular cliff views of theShawangunk Ridge near New Paltz.

We received a truly prestigious and game-changing awardin the summer of 2010, a Double Gold and Best WhiteWine in Show, for our 2009 Riesling at the San FranciscoInternational Wine Competition—huge for a small EastCoast family winery. San Francisco is the oldest, biggestand most prestigious wine competition in America. In2010, 1,290 wineries submitted wines from 27 countries,and 28 states. In a blind tasting by 45 respected judges,our Riesling was judged to be the very best white, winningover some amazing wines from around the world. This saysthat Whitecliff—and Hudson Valley winemaking—havetruly arrived on the world wine stage!

The Wall Street Journal also pointed out that “Wines oftentaste better at the winery for many reasons, including thescenery, but these (Whitecliff ’s) wines were even moreimpressive with food.” Perhaps for that reason, Whitecliffwines are served at some of the best restaurants in the area,including the DePuy Canal House, the Culinary Instituteof America, The Gramercy Tavern, and Peter Kelly’sXavier’s, Restaurant X and X20.

We have dedicated more than 30 years to finding andplanting grape varieties that succeed on our Hudson Valleysite and will produce wines we are proud of. The drivewayapproach to our Tasting Room brings visitors through the heart of our vineyard. In the fall the vines will be covered with grapes, and draped with netting for protection from birds and deer. In spring the drive is past tiny soft green leaves and buds. Summer brings full foliage, and winter bare canes and pruning. Whatever the season, visitors will see what’s going on in one of the biggest vineyards in the Hudson Valley, and by the time they reach the Tasting Room will understand our serious commitment to viticulture.

40 HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer/Fall 2012

WHITECLIFF VINEYARDEstablished 1998

MEET THE WINEMAKERS Husband and wife team Michael Miglioreand Yancey Stanforth-Migliore startedWhitecliff from scratch. From plantingthe vines to construction of the tastingroom, they have done much of the workwith their own hands.

The Migliores take particular pride inbeing part of a vanguard of innovators,who have worked to add European winegrapes, high quality new hybrids, andcomplex, European-style wines to theValley’s traditional focus on fruit winesand sweet wines.

Winemaker and vineyard manager,Michael Migliore brings the rigorousapproach of a chemist and engineer toWhitecliff. With a Masters in Chemistryfrom SUNY New Paltz, and many years as a process engineer in semiconductormanufacturing, Michael applied his back-ground in science to teaching himself thechemistry and art of winemaking. Heworks closely with Cornell CooperativeExtension testing new grape varieties, and pushing the envelope on the qualityof grape growing in the region. In thatcapacity he also serves as president of theHudson Valley Wine and Grape GrowersAssociation.

Yancey Stanforth-Migliore manages salesand the Tasting Room. Her previous workat regional environmental organization,Scenic Hudson, and for the NationalCampaign for Sustainable Agriculture,inspires her focus on Whitecliff as a familybusiness that keeps land in farming,strengthens the region’s agricultural roots,and produces a unique, natural productthat makes people happy.

VA R I E TA L S

CHARDONNAY

R I E S L I N G

G EWÜR Z T R AM I N E R

G AMAY N O I R

P I N O T N O I R

M ER LO T

C A B E RN E T F R A N C

S K Y I S L A ND R E D(Bordeaux blend)

S PA R K L I N G W I N E

P OR T

HYBRID/BLENDS

AWOS T I N G WH I T E

R E D TA I L

T R AM I N E T T E

MOUN TA I NL AUR E L WH I T E

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PHOTOS: Tom Ligamari

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www.hvwinemag.com • Summer/Fall 2012 41

V I N E YA RDWHITECLIFF vINEYARD

A DDR E SS331 McKinstry Roadgardiner, NY 12525

PHON E845-255-4613

EMA I [email protected]

WEBS I T Ewww.whitecliffwine.com

OP EN11:30am–5:30pm

C LO S E DJanuary: WeekdaysFeb–May, Nov–Dec:Tues/Wed

TA S T I N G F E E S$7 

TOUR SBy appointment

A C R E AG E26 acres

P RODUC T I O N5,500 cases

OWNER S /MAN AG E R SMichael and Yancey Migliore

W IN EMAK E RMichael Migliore

EVENTSFor a complete list of events checkour website

Sept 22 –23 A Match Made in HeavenA tasting of artisanal Hudson valley cheeseand wine. What’s going on in the world ofcheesemaking in the Hudson valley? Explorethe answer to that question at this weekendtasting. Cheeses have been chosen for sampling specifically to present a broad expe-rience of what’s being made in the valleytoday, from hard to soft, from goat, cow andsheep’s milk, to a variety of farm locations. 

THE ESSENTIALS

IN THE SPOTLIGHTCHARDONNAY!

Last summer, Whitecliff ’s 2011 ReserveChardonnay won Gold, and BestChardonnay on the East Coast, in theAtlantic Seaboard Competition. THIS year you can stop in to taste threedifferent styles of our fine Chardonnays:our barrel-fermented Reserve; our steel-fermented Chardonnay; and a newapproach, steel-fermented, with malolacticfermentation to combine that butteryquality with a lighter wine.

WHITECLIFF'S NEWBUILDING!

We’ve completed our new green winerybuilding just in time for the 2011 crush!Its geothermal cooling and heating systemis particularly appropriate for wine pro-cessing and storage, since we will beworking with the year-round undergroundtemperature of 54 degrees – just the temperature for storage of happy wine!

GETTING HEREFROM THE NYS THRUWAY (RT. 87): Exit 18, New Paltz. Turn left onto Route 299.Drive through the town, across the WallkillRiver and bear left onto County Route 7 atthe fork after Wallkill view Farm. Stay onRoute 7 for 7.9 miles and turn left ontoRoute 7A, McKinstry Road. Whitecliff is .8miles along on the right.

ULSTER

Page 44: Hudson Valley Wine Magazine Fall 2012

MILLBROOK VINEYARDS & WINERY was founded in 1981 by John S. Dyson, former Deputy Mayor forEconomic Development in New York City, as well as formerNew York State Commissioner of Commerce andAgriculture. It was the first vineyard in the Hudson RiverRegion of New York dedicated exclusively to the produc-tion of vinifera grapes. Dyson started growing grapes byplanting an experimental acre of vinifera grapes at his family farm in Millbrook. In 1979, he purchased a formerdairy farm and converted the 1940s-era barn into an effi-ciently designed modern winery. Millbrook Winery’s firstcommercial vintage was in 1985 and today it produces over14,000 cases of wine a year.

Of the estate’s 130 acres, 30 are now planted with grapes.Approximately half of the vineyard is planted withChardonnay, and the remainder consists of Tocai Friulano,Pinot Noir, and Cabernet Franc. Some of Millbrook’s mosthighly regarded wines include the New York State appella-tion and the Proprietor’s Special Reserve versions ofChardonnay, Cabernet Franc, and Pinot Noir. When thegrowing season allows, Millbrook also produces three vineyard designate wines in very limited quantities – ourBlock Two West Chardonnay, Castle Hill Chardonnay,Block Five East Pinot Noir and Block Three East Cabernet Franc.

Millbrook Winery is located in a renovated Dutch hipdairy barn that has a magnificent view of the vineyards,Catskill Mountains, and rolling hills of Dutchess County.Millbrook stays true to its goal of producing wines of thehighest caliber by uniting state-of-the-art viticulture withclassical French and Italian winemaking techniques, including barrel aging and malolactic fermentation.

Essential to the Millbrook Wine Experience is an informa-tive and enriching guided tour of the winery, which willleave you with an insider’s view of the entire winemakingprocess, from the careful tending of the vineyards to thewinemaker’s art of vinification. Each tour is capped off witha complete and informative tasting of current vintageMillbrook wines.

42 HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer/Fall 2012

MILLBROOK VINEYARDS & WINERYEstablished 1985

MEET THE OWNER &WINEMAKER John Dyson’s initial wine investmentbegan in 1979 when John Dyson initiatedseveral viticultural experiments using vari-ous varieties, rootstocks and trellisingtechniques at his Millbrook property.From one acre of vineyard in 1979 to over1,000 today, Mr. Dyson owns and oper-ates four separate properties: MillbrookVineyards & Winery in the HudsonValley, NY: Villa Pillo Estate in Tuscany,Italy; Williams & Selyem in SonomaCounty, CA; and Pebble Ridge Vineyardsin the North Central Coast region ofCalifornia comprising of Vista Verde vineyard.

John Graziano is the Vice President andWinemaker at Millbrook Vineyards &Winery. John was born and raised in Rye,NY, and attended Cornell Universitywhere he studied Fruit Crop Production,including courses in chemistry and viticul-ture. Cornell’s proximity to the vineyardsof the Finger Lakes gave John the excuseto indulge his interest in wine. He gradu-ated from Cornell University in 1981,with degrees in Plant Pathology andEntomology. In 1984, he was asked byJohn Dyson to be the opening winemakerfor Millbrook Vineyards, and he hasremained the only winemaker at the winery since its establishment.

VA R I E TA L S

TOCAI FR IULANOPROPRIETOR’SSPECIAL RESERVE

TOCAI FR IULANOLOLL IPOP H ILL

UNOAKEDCHARDONNAY

CHARDONNAY

CHARDONNAYPROPRIETOR’SSPECIAL RESERVE

BLOCK TWO WESTCHARDONNAY

HUNT COUNTRY WHITE

HUNT COUNTRY ROSÉ

HUNT COUNTRY RED

PINOT NOIR

PINOT NOIRPROPRIETOR’SSPECIAL RESERVE

BLOCK F IVE EASTPINOT NOIR

CABERNET FRANC

CABERNET FRANCPROPRIETOR’SSPECIAL RESERVE

BLOCK THREE EASTCABERNET FRANC

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www.hvwinemag.com • Summer/Fall 2012 43

IN THE SPOTLIGHTRESERVE TASTINGS

Our Reserve Wine Tastings are nowoffered daily on the hour from 1:00–4:00p.m. The cost is $25 per person($20 for Case Club members). Tastethrough a collection of five of ourfavorite Estate grown and bottledwines along with Pinot Noir from oursister winery, Williams Selyem. Explorethe best of the Hudson River Region,California’s Russian River Valley andCentral Coast Regions together in thisdelightful line-up.

Thanks to our recent purchase of aEuroCave, Millbrook is also now offer-ing an expanded “Wine By The Glass”menu, featuring eight Reserve wines inaddition to the wines currently avail-able from the Portfolio SamplerTasting. Each of these Reserve winesfeatured in the EuroCave are availableby the glass as well as available for single tastes. Our new pay-per-tasteoption allows guests to try Reservewines on the list of their choosing assingle samples. A great way to explorethe upper tier of the MillbrookPortfolio one sip at a time!

GETTING HEREFROM TACONIC STATE PARKWAY:Taconic State Parkway to Millbrook/Poughkeepsie/Rt. 44 exit. Take Rt. 44 Eastone mile to Rt. 82 North. Follow Rt. 82North 3 miles to Rt. 57 (Shunpike Rd). Takea right on Rt. 57 and follow 3 miles. Take aleft on Wing Road. Millbrook Winery is thesecond driveway on the right.

DUTCHESS

V I N E YA RDMILLBROOK vINEYARDS & WINERY

A DDR E SS26 Wing RoadMillbrook, NY 12545

PHON E845-677-8383

FA X845-677-6186

EMA I [email protected]

WEBS I T Ewww.millbrookwine.com

OP EN12pm–5pm, seven days a weekMemorial Day  –Labor Day: 11am–6pm

C LO S E DThanksgiving, Christmas, New Year’s Day, Easter

TA S T I N G F E E S$10 for Portfolio Tasting$25 for Reserve Tasting

TOUR SIncluded with tastings

A C R E AG E130 acre estate, 30 planted with vines

P RODUC T I O N14,000 cases

OWNERJohn S. Dyson

MANAG E RDavid H. Bova

W IN EMAK E RJohn graziano

EVENTSAug 18 Jazz at the vineyard grille, 5–7pm

Aug 31 Once in a Blue Moon BBq & Blues, 6–10pm

Oct 13 Winegrower’s Boot Camp –Session 5

Oct 13 22nd Annual Harvest Party

Nov 17 grand Portfolio Tasting

THE ESSENTIALS

Page 46: Hudson Valley Wine Magazine Fall 2012

THE HUDSON-CHATHAM WINERY was started byCarlo and Dominique DeVito when they acquired theirproperty in 2006. The last remaining 14 acres of the for-mer 500-acre Brisklea Farms dairy in Ghent, in ColumbiaCounty, with rolling hills that afford views stretching fromthe Catskills to the Berkshires, the DeVitos knew whenthey first stepped onto the land that it was where theywanted to be.

They planted 1,000 vines in 2006 – a combination ofSeyval Blanc, Muscat, Chancellor, and DeChaunac – andbecame instant farmers. They now have an additional1,000 vines planted, mostly Baco Noir, but also Chelois,Burdin, and some other hybrids. A tasting room was constructed in early 2007, and the Hudson-ChathamWinery opened its doors in September that year. This fallmarks their fifth anniversary!

To get started, they tapped into their extensive knowledgeof the wines and winemakers of New York State to developand bring in grapes and blend wines they could fashionunder their Hudson-Chatham label. They also established a Paperbirch label for fortified dessert wines, and have a line of distinctive port-style wines, a lovely cassis, and a multiple award-winning sherry.

In January 2012, the winery expanded its production areato accommodate additional tanks, and to create a designatedarea for bottling, labeling, and storage. When this wascompleted, it allowed them to expand their tasting roominto the adjacent building.

Though relatively new, the Hudson-Chatham Winery hasnotched many distinctive awards for its wines, consistentlywinning medals from the Hudson Valley Wine & GrapeAssociation, at the New York Food & Wine Classic, the New York State Fair, and the Dallas Morning News Wine Competition. Their reds have received scores in the high 80sfrom Wine Spectator and Wine Enthusiast magazines. In summer 2012, their 2010 BacoNoir Reserve Casscles Vineyard won a prestigious Double Gold medal from the NY StateFair Wine Competition – the only Hudson Valley wine to do so.

In addition to the wines, Hudson-Chatham produces a line of its own 100% naturalmaple syrups under the Sugarmaker’s Reserve label, a distinctive black currant “caviar,”several cheeses, and other gourmet items.

44 HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer/Fall 2012

HUDSON-CHATHAM WINERYEstablished 2006

MEET THE WINEMAKERS Carlo, Dominique, Dawson & DylanDeVito, along with Ralph Cooley, crush,blend, and bottle the wines. LongtimeNYS grape expert Steve Casscles is thewinemaker. Ralph’s grandparents were theowners of Brisklea Farms for six decades.Carlo is the author of East Coast Wineries:The Complete Guide from Maine to Virginia(Rutgers Univ. Press), and is the publisherof www.eastcoastwineries.blogspot.com, a highly-acclaimed wine blog featuringnews, reviews, and interviews concerningEast Coast wines. The DeVitos are alsofounding members of the HudsonBerkshire Beverage Trail (www.hudson-berkshireexperience.com).

W IN E S

S E Y VA L B L A N C

R I E S L I N G

G H EN T B LU SH

L INDENWALD WHITE

HUDSON R IVERVALLEY RED

C A B E RN E T F R A N C

MER LO T

B A C O N O I R

EMP I R E R E D

B L ANC D E B L A N C

POMME B U L L EHard apple cider

PA P E R B I R CH– Highlands FineRuby

– HighlandsRaspberry Ruby

– Palladian White

– Bannerman’s CastleAmber Cream

– Cassis

The Hudson-Chatham

Winery was voted “The

Capital Region’s Best

Local Winery” by Capital

Region Living Magazine

in 2011 and 2012!

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www.hvwinemag.com • Summer/Fall 2012 45

V I N E YA RDHuDSON-CHATHAM WINERY

A DDR E SS1900 State Route 66ghent, NY 12075

PHON E518-392-WINE (9463)

EMA I [email protected]

WEBS I T Ewww.hudson-chathamwinery.com

OP ENYear-round, Friday–Sunday: 12pm–5:00pm, with additional summer and holiday hours

C LO S E DMonday–Thursday, but open by appointment

TA S T I N G F E E S$5.00 includes glass

TOUR SOccasional

A C R E AG E14 acres total, about 5 acres planted

P RODUC T I O N4,000 cases

OWNER SCarlo and Dominique Devito

MANAG E R SCarlo and Dominique Devito

W IN EMAK E R SCarlo Devito, Steve Casscles, Ralph Cooley

EVENTS (check website for updated listings)

Seasonal Wine Dinners(call or check website for more info)Oct 27 Hallo-Wine Join us for treats – andtricks – on this special Saturday! Come in acostume.Nov 3–4 Hudson Berkshire Beverage TrailHolidays on the Hudson event. Purchase aTrail Passport for special tastings at all 5 ven-ues on the HBB Trail.Nov 17 5th Annual Bread, Wine & CheeseFestival, where we celebrate (and sample)select locally produced breads and cheesesto complement the wines.Dec 29–30 Bubbly Beginnings & EndingsToast an end to the old year and the begin-ning of the new year with a complementarysparkling wine cocktail. Happy New Year!

THE ESSENTIALS

COLUMBIA

IN THE SPOTLIGHT

HUDSON RIVER VALLEY RED

This has always been one of the most popular wines produced by Hudson-Chatham Winery.

For 2012, the Hudson River Valley Redcombines Baco Noir, Chelois, Léon Millot,Marechal Foch, and Merlot made in a ripasto style (Italian and Spanish style),meaning it combines grapes (some of whichhave already been pressed once before) toadd flavor, texture, and complexity. It is alight-bodied red, with bright cherry andvanilla aromas. The wine was aged in Frenchoak for six months. It is a great food wine,with bright acidity and medium tannins.

Every year the Hudson-Chatham Winerychooses a new painting form the HudsonRiver School of Painting for the label to its flagship table red.

This year’s label celebrates the Hudson RiverSloop with one of the Hudson River’s mostfamous painters, Francis Augustus Silva, who painted dozens and dozens of canvasesfeaturing the majestic Hudson River.

GETTING HEREFROM NYS THRUWAY (RT. 87): Exit 21,and make a left at the stop light onto Rt. 23B.Take Rt. 23 East over the Rip van WinkleBridge, and follow signs for Hudson. Make aright onto Warren St., and follow throughtown. At intersection, make a left onto Rt. 66,and follow for 8 miles.

FROM THE TACONIC STATE PARKWAY:Take the exit for Chatham/Austerlitz, Rt. 203,toward Chatham. At the intersection of Rts. 203 and 66, make a left onto Rt. 66,towards ghent/Hudson. The winery is about5 miles from the intersection on the right.

Page 48: Hudson Valley Wine Magazine Fall 2012

SITUATED IN CLERMONT, NY, in the historic Hudson Valley, we are a boutiquewinery with a relentless drive to produce local, quality wine. Even though we’re relativelynew – the winery was born in 2006 – we have come a long way toward reaching our goal.Lenn Thompson, the Executive Editor of the New York Cork Report (NYCR) wrote this inJanuary 2012:

‘"It's hard not to consider Tousey Winery a major player in the resurgence of qualitywine in Hudson Valley.”

We have a broad portfolio of wines, from the proprietary white blend, the Queen ofClermont to our Estate Bottled Riesling. In terms of reds we have a delightful Pinot Noiraccompanying the Hudson Valley Red Wine of the Year (as nominated by the team at theNew York Cork Report) – the 2010 Cabernet Franc.

When it comes to our vineyard, we couldn’t have wishedfor anything better. Overlooking the Hudson River andthe Catskill Mountains, the panorama is outstanding. Intotal we have 15 acres of Chardonnay, Riesling and PinotNoir under production. And it would be churlish of us notto share it. Therefore, we hold private tastings and eventsat the vineyard throughout the year.

Our popular Tasting Room, conveniently nestled in theBlue Roof right on Route 9 in Germantown, is the perfectspot to come in, relax and enjoy our wines in a stylish,intimate, candle-lit space. We also sell organic honey,handmade soaps and even local artwork. We’re openthroughout the year, every Friday, Saturday and Sunday.

Behind the tasting room? A brand new winemaking facilitynow stands to ensure we meet our high standards of winequality.

Trying to find us but can’t get to the tasting room? Catch us at farmer’s markets inKingston and Rhinebeck, and at special events throughout the Hudson Valley. We’re alsoproud to be featured in a number of the area’s top restaurants and wine shops. Check outour Tousey Map at www.touseywiney.com for more details.

If you’re getting the picture that we’re a lot of different things in one, you’re right. We’reeclectic and passionate. . . but most of all, we’re delicious, top-quality wine you can haveright here in the Hudson Valley.

46 HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer/Fall 2012

TOUSEY WINERYEstablished 2006

MEET THE OWNER &WINEMAKERS Winemaker: Since Ben Peacock tookover the reins at Tousey Winery early in2010, he has produced numerous winesto critical acclaim. Most notably the2010 Cabernet Franc awarded theHudson Valley Red Wine of the Year by theteam at NYCR and the 2010 Pinot Noir,given 90pts by Snooth. Ben was firstattracted to the business end of the wineindustry, but this soon developed into amore hands-on approach by making thewines full time – in addition to runningthe business!

Winemaking team: To ensure we deliverto our high standards, Tousey Wineryhas the pleasure of working with PeterBell and Tricia Renshaw as consultingwinemakers. They bring with them over30 years of winemaking experience.Bruce Tripp, a Hudson Valley native andVice President of the Hudson ValleyWine & Grape Association, completesthe team.

Owners: Daughter and son-in-law,Kimberly and Ben Peacock joined thefamily business with founder Ray Touseyin early 2010. Since then, the entire winery operation has been upgraded tomatch our high standards of wine quality.

W IN E S

QUEEN OF CLERMONT

REBELLION(Rosé)

CHARDONNAY

ESTATECHARDONNNAY(New for 2012)

RIESL ING

CABERNET FRANC

CRÉME DE CASSIS

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www.hvwinemag.com • Summer/Fall 2012 47

V I N E YA RDTOuSEY WINERY

A DDR E SS1774 Route 9germantown, NY 12526

PHON E518-567-5462

FA X518-537-6832

EMA I [email protected]

WEBS I T Ewww.touseywinery.com

OP ENFriday,12pm–8pmSaturday–Sunday,12pm–5pm

C LO S E DMonday–Thursday

TA S T I N G F E E S$5.00

A C R E AG EOver 16 acres

P RODUC T I O N1,500 cases

OWNERRay Tousey

MANAG E RBen Peacock

W IN EMAK E RBruce Tripp

EVENTS (check website for updated listings)

Aug 19 Farm, Food & Music FestivalClermont State Park, 4pm–dusk

THE ESSENTIALS

IN THE SPOTLIGHTTHE QUEEN OF CLERMONTThis is your Queen. She will do herutmost to administer an aromatic nose;furnish you with a wonderfully light andrefreshing mid-palate, with notes of limeand melon. And in her wisdom, provide a hint of sweetness to meet all tastes.Serve at royal banquets, state dinners and with all other foods… there is onlyone Queen.�

RIESLING 2011Estate bottled. Sandalwood, apricot andpeach delight the nose on this complex,estate bottled Riesling. On the palate,richness and a refreshing acidity deliver a lasting finish.�

CABERNET FRANC 2010

Hudson Valley Red Wine of the Year –NYCR. Our Cabernet Franc displays darkfruit on the nose with great depth on thepalate. Supple tannins rounded by atouch of oak provide a satisfying finish.��

PINOT NOIR 2010 90pts – Snooth. Matured in French oakbarrels, this delectable Pinot Noir revealsflavors of strawberries and black cherries.A warm, smooth and elegant example ofthis classic varietal.

CRÈME DE CASSIS Grown on the estate along with honeyfrom our very own bees, our Cassis is ablend of four varieties of black currants.Uniquely, the honey is used to balancethe Cassis against the currant to give abold and fragrant flavor.

GETTING HEREFROM NYS THRUWAY (RT. 87): Exit 21Catskill and take Rt. 23 East over the Ripvan Winkle Bridge. Take the Rt. 9g Southramp. Turn slight right onto 9g South/Rhinebeck-Hudson Rd. Turn left onto CR-10. Turn right onto CR-31/Blue Hill Rd.Turn right onto uS-9. Tousey Winery islocated within the Blue Roof market on Rt. 9, 45 minutes north of Poughkeepsieand 1 hour south of Albany.

COLUMBIA

Page 50: Hudson Valley Wine Magazine Fall 2012

WONDERFULLY SWEEPING VISTAS of the Catskill and Helderburg Mountains are the scenic backdrop for the Brookview Station Winery at Goold Orchards, RensselaerCounty’s first winery.

Our mission at the Brookview Station Winery is to craft the best Hudson River Valleywines, using the finest fruits and grapes grown at our family farm and from other Hudson Valley family farms. In doing so we acknowledge the vital economic impact ofagriculture in the Hudson Valley and we honor those who work tirelessly to preserve “the Valley’s” tradition of family farming.

The Goold Orchard story began in April of 1910 whenJames and Bertha Goold arrived by rail at a small train station in Brookview NY, the Brookview Station. Togetherthey walked a mile to the farm they had recently pur-chased. Bertha, educated at Emma Willard in Troy andhusband James, a recent graduate from Cornell were eagerto apply the latest in agricultural technologies on their newfruit farm. In 1933 after James’ sudden death, Bertha wasleft to keep the farm going with help from her 17-year-oldson Robert. “Bob” and later his wife Marcia (Sue’s parents)continued to work and grow the family fruit farm intowhat is the present day Goold Orchards.

Third generation owners Sue Goold Miller and her husband Edward Miller expanded the farm again, and in2006 opened the Brookview Station Winery, aptly namedto honor her grandparents and founders, James and Bertha Goold.

As Hudson Berkshire Beverage Trail members, we invite youto get a jump start on your holiday gift giving at “HolidaysAlong the Hudson,” the third passport event along the Trail,this November 3rd and 4th. Guests will be treated to sam-plings of wine, cheeses and local treats of all kinds. Passportsare just $20.00 and may be purchased at any of our tasting rooms.

48 HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer/Fall 2012

BROOKVIEW STATION WINERYEstablished 2006

MEET THE WINEMAKERS The vineyard is growing again! After theweather of this past “winter that wasn’t ”we couldn’t wait for the planting season tocome. Late this spring we expanded thevineyard to the front of the farm, planting240 Marquette grape vines. Marquette is anewer red wine grape that was developedas a cold climate grape in Minnesota in1989. It was developed by crossing aFrench Hybrid cultivar Ravat 262 with aMinnesota varietal. Ravat likewise has acomplex background, but has the renownedvariety Pinot Noir as one parent.

“The Porter’s Port,” a dark cherry portcontinues to improve with age. This richblend of dark sweet and sour cherries hasnotes of vanilla along with hints ofcharred oak. With great reviews and sever-al wine medals to its credit, this port istruly delectable.

“I was recently asked what my personalfavorite out of our 12 wines was. I didn’tneed to think but a second to know “TheConductor’s Cassis” is my personalfavorite. I really enjoy it. Conductor’ssweetness is balanced just perfectly withthe tart of the black currant. The flavorjust doesn’t quit. The girls like to say ‘It’sdecadent’ and I think they’ve got this onejust right.” (Ed Miller)

W IN E S

WH I S T L E S TO PWH I T E

O H , WH AT A P E A R

P OMONA

S UN S E T C H A R L I ER O S É

A L L A B O A RD R E D

MER LO T

B ACO N O I R

J U S T P E A CH Y

S T R AWB E RRYSUNR I S E

S C A R LO T TA B I N G

TH E C ONDUC TOR ’ SC A SS I S

T H E P O R T E R ’ SP O R T

Our mission at the Brookview Station Winery is to

craft the best Hudson River Valley wines, using the

finest fruits and grapes grown at our family farm.

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www.hvwinemag.com • Summer/Fall 2012 49

V I N E YA RDBROOKvIEW STATION WINERY

A DDR E SS1297 Brookview Station Road Castleton-on-Hudson, NY 12033

PHON EToll-free: 1-88-TO-uNCORK

WEBS I T Ewww.brookviewstationwinery.com

OP ENJan– Aug: Mon–Sat, 10am–5pm Sept–Dec: Daily, 9am–5:30pm

C LO S E DNew Years Day, Easter, Memorial Day, Independence Day,Thanksgiving, Christmas

TA S T I N G F E E S$6.00–$8.00Private/group Tastings – Price variesAvailable by appointment only

TOUR SNot available

A C R E AG E125 total acres; 80 acres are currentlyunder fruit production

P RODUC T I O N2,500–3,500 cases

OWNERSue goold Miller and Ed Miller

MANAG E RKaren gardy

W IN EMAK E RSue goold Miller and Ed Miller

EVENTS (Updates at www.goold.com or followus on Facebook.com/brookviewstationwinery)

Labor Day Weekend Apple PickingSeason OpensSept 7–8 Meet us at the Hudson ValleyWine Fest, Dutchess Fairgrounds, RhinebeckSept 15 Wine, Women & Song. Makingstrides Against Breast Cancer Fundraiser.Tickets at www.gooldwine.com

Sept 29 Radio Disney Kids Day featuringTalia Denis Concert 

Oct 6–7 24th Annual Apple Festival &Craft Show, with ILNY Wine TentOct 13 The Muttville Comix Dog ShowOct 20 Halloween Pets on Parade, 2pmNov 3–4 Holidays Along the Hudson,HBBT Passport Event

THE ESSENTIALS

GETTING HERECHECK WEBSITE FOR DIRECTIONS:www.brookviewstationwinery.com

RENSSELAER

IN THE SPOTLIGHTTHE CONDUCTOR’S CASSISRich, complex and wonderfully decadent.An exquisite black currant cordial hand-crafted in the traditional style of Frenchartisanal winemakers.

BACO NOIRA beautiful blending of new world wineand old world style. A soft, medium bod-ied red wine that hints of cherries, plumand spices.

THE PORTER’S PORTA mélange of delectable Hudson Valleycherries fermented and barrel-aged to perfection. Its rich dark cherry notes arenicely blended with a toasty oak finish.

WHISTLE STOP WHITE“2007 Best Hudson River Region Wine.”Semi-Dry Apple Wine. A subtle essence ofapple is all that lingers behind its smoothsweet-tart finish. Estate Bottled.

OH WHAT A PEARSemi-Dry Pear Wine. This light, fruitywine is surprisingly complex and long onfinish. Estate Bottled.

ALL ABOARDA dry, medium-bodied red table wineblended with a touch of Noiret for asmooth, lightly-spiced finish.

STRAWBERRY SUNRISE Strawberry Wine. As sweet as a Junemorn, this wine is “Just-Picked Perfect.”Hudson River Region.

Page 52: Hudson Valley Wine Magazine Fall 2012

50 HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer/Fall 2012

IF YOU ASK DISTILLER Monte Sachs to show you around the Catskill DistillingCompany, what you’ll get is half tour, half chemistry lesson. But what is clear, aside from the spirits running through the beautiful, copper stills, is his passion for distilling.It’s a passion you taste in every bottle of Catskill Distilling Company spirits.

Located moments from the site of the original Woodstock Music Festival (now BethelWoods Center for the Performing Arts), the Catskill Distilling Company honors the richhistory of the Sullivan County Catskills – a unique blend of tradition and revolution.

The Catskill Distilling Company’s inaugural bottle, Peace Vodka, is a wheat vodka dis-tinctive for both its complexity and refinement. A delicate balance that reminds you whysmaller is better and that there is no substitute for passion. Summer 2012 saw the intro-duction of Curious Gin, Wicked White Whiskey and Most Righteous Bourbon.

The water is from the Catskill Mountains, and the grains,purchased at a nearby mill, are returned as mash to a near-by farm to feed a herd of red stag. From the locally-growngrains to fruit from local orchards and botanicals grown onsite, the Catskill Distillery embodies the spirit of the farmdistillery and demonstrates a strong commitment to thelocal agricultural community.

The custom-made copper stills, the work of masterEuropean craftsmen, were designed to accommodate a vari-ety of distillation techniques. They are a work of art thatserve as the backdrop to the tasting room at the CatskillDistillery. There, you can sample the spirits at the elegant artdeco bar from the 1939 World’s Fair in Flushing, Queens.

The Catskill Distilling Company is not just a distillery; it’sa destination. And its commitment is not just to the agri-cultural community, but to the community of artists andmusicians who call the Hudson Valley home.

Step outside the Distillery, and you’ll find the Dancing Cat Saloon. Live music, good food and a relaxed atmos-phere are the principles on which the Dancing Cat wasbuilt. Inside the restored turn of the century Victorian is an array of fantastic carvings, paintings, and photographs by a variety of local artists.

July 2012 saw the newest addition to the Catskill Distilling Company family – the opening of the Stray Cat Gallery. Here, the work of local artists is on display. Paintings,photographs, pottery, and sculpture, all by local artists, adorn the walls, halls and mantles in the recently renovated 1830s farmhouse and the fields surrounding the distillery.

CATSKILL DISTILLING COMPANYEstablished 2009

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MEET THE DISTILLER Monte Sachs grew up on a dairy farm in Coastal Connecticut. After graduatingfrom the University of New HampshireSchool of Agriculture, he attended veterinary school at the University of Pisa.

While studying veterinary medicine, he traveled throughout Italy and learned the art of distilling traditional grappafrom an 80 year-old farmworker namedBernardino. This was the beginning ofMonte’s appreciation and study of distillation.

With the passage of the New York StateFarm Distillery bill, Monte decided toturn his attention from the practice ofequine medicine to the art of fine distillation – and so began the planningof the Catskill Distilling Company.

Whether it is grain or fruit-based distillates, whiskies, vodkas, grappas, fruit brandies, or gin, you can alwaysfind Monte in the distillery working late into the night on new projects.

P RODUC TSC ATS K I L LMOUN TA I N P E A C EVODK A

CUR I O U S G I N

MOS T R I G H T E OU SBOURBON

W I C K E D WH I T EWH I S K E Y

A ND A S O F Y E TUNN AMED :WH E AT WH I S K E Y

R Y E WH I S K E Y

BUCKWHE ATWH I S K E Y

MUSC AT G R A P PA

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DISTILLERY

www.hvwinemag.com • Summer/Fall 2012 51

D I S T I L L E R YCATSKILL DISTILLINg COMPANY

A DDR E SS2037 Route 17BBethel, NY 12720

PHON E845-583-8569

EMA I [email protected]

WEBS I T Ewww.catskilldistilling.com

OP ENYear-roundFri, Sat and Sun: Noon–7pm or by appointment Mon, Tues, Wed, Thurs: Hours vary,  call for an appointment

TOUR SYes

A C R E AG E30 acres

P RODUC T I O N6,000 cases/year

OWNERDr. Monte Sachs and Stacy Cohen

D I S T I L L E RDr. Monte Sachs

EVENTS For more on events and music checkthe website.

THE ESSENTIALS

IN THE SPOTLIGHT

CATSKILLMOUNTAIN PEACE VODKA

Distinctive forits smoothnessand delicate flavor, PeaceVodka recentlycame in first

place and earned a double-gold medalfrom The Fifty Best during their annualdomestic vodka competition.

CURIOUS GIN

This perfect combination ofexotic botanicals and localjuniper berries has created ahandcrafted gin that is intriguingly different anduncommonly sophisticated.

WICKED WHITEWHISKEY

This devilishly different, un-aged whiskey is unusuallysmooth and full of local grainflavor – a tribute to our fear-less forefathers who defiedProhibition.

MOST RIGHTEOUSBOURBON

We’ve taken the best ofKentucky know-how andmixed it with New York ingenuity to produce ourfirst, limited release aged spirit – a smooth, beautifullyspicy, brilliant bronze bourbon.

GETTING HEREFROM NYC AND WESTCHESTER:Take NYS Thruway (I-87) North to Exit 16(Harriman). Proceed onto Route 17 (I-86)West to Exit 104 heading west on Route17B. Travel approximately 9 miles onRoute 17B. The Distillery is on the left.  FROM ALBANY AND MASSACHUSETTS:Take the NYS Thruway (I-87) to Exit 19toward Rt-28/Kingston/Rhinecliff Bridge.Take the 1st exit onto NY-28 North at thetraffic circle. Merge onto uS-209 Southtoward Ellenville and travel approximately38 miles. Turn right onto Route 17 (I-86)West. Take Exit 104 heading west onRoute 17B. Travel approximately 9 mileson Route 17B. The Distillery is on the left. 

Page 54: Hudson Valley Wine Magazine Fall 2012

LOCATED ON A FAMILY APPLE FARM in the fertile Hudson Valley, HarvestSpirits benefits by having all of our ingredients grown steps from our doorstep. Ourthird-generation apple farm benefits by having a new market for our cider apples andincreased traffic to our retail farm store. Harvest Spirits and Golden Harvest Farmswork closely with several local farms. We promote strong ties among our local farmersand share information readily, from tree to bottle.

Our small distillery is a very modern work of art. Though it can only distill one hun-dred gallons at a time, it is flexible and precise enough to create virtually any kind ofliquor, from gin and whiskey to exotics like cachaça, agave spirits and medicinal bit-ters. Apples offer us the perfect component and a unique opportunity to control ourprocess from harvesting all natural ingredients to triple distilling our vodka in our custom-designed German still.

We focus primarily on vodka, and every drop in every bottle of Core Vodka is meticu-lously and passionately hand-crafted using nothing but the apples grown steps fromour distillery, and filtered water, to create a vodka with a smoother, softer spirit and anauthentic flavor. The final result – vodka that greets your mouth with a rich, buttery start and leaves your palette with a subtle hint of its fruit origin.

The creation of our Pear Brandy is a collaboration between three local fruit farms.Surprisingly dry, our unaged, unsweetened brandy is a perfect expression of fruit. We capture the full flavor of ripe barlett pears by fermenting whole, crushed pears (insteadof pear juice). Although much more difficult to make with whole fruit, our brandy isworth the effort. Big, bold pear aromas in the bouquet develop into a rich mouthfeeland finish with a surprisingly smooth satisfaction.

Inspired by French eau-de-vie (water of life), our apple brandy was born a year afterthe success of our pear brandy. Similar in style to our pear brandy, our apple brandy ismade from fresh fruit grown in the Hudson Valley. This respectable spirit endeavors toembody the fragrance and velvety texture of fresh apples.

Since colonial times, traditional applejack was made by freezing barrels of hard cider during the long winter months, then tapping and removing the alcoholic center. Thiswas a powerful and harsh liquor, since it concentrated all of the alcohols – both goodand bad. We carefully distill our Cornelius Applejack three times, offering a smoother,more satisfying take on this American classic. Carefully distilled and rested in premiumbourbon barrels, Cornelius Applejack is made from 100% Hudson Valley apples,homegrown on our 200-acre fruit farm. Each bottle is made from over 60 lbs. of freshapples grown steps from our distillery.

We invite you to come in for a tour and taste some of our latest creations.

HARVEST SPIRITSEstablished 2006

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MEET THE DISTILLER Derek Grout is a third-generation applefarmer and the distiller at Harvest Spirits.He is actively in charge of the distilleryand all aspects of the distilling process, as well as product development. Derek’sresponsibilities range from designingproduct packaging and website develop-ment to scrubbing tanks and promotingthe products.

A graduate of Cornell University, Derekbegan his career as a graphic designer inBoston, MA. After a spending too muchtime in front of his computer, he decidedto return to his roots.

In 2003, Derek moved back to the familyapple farm in the Hudson Valley to helphis father and to learn the family businessof growing apples. Mr. Grout continues tohelp on the farm, when he’s not in thedistillery.

P RODUC TSCOR E V O D K A

CORN E L I U SA P P L E J A C K

P E A R B R ANDY

A P P L E B R ANDY

52 HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer/Fall 2012

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D I S T I L L E R YHARvEST SPIRITS

A DDR E SS3074 uS Route 9valatie, NY 12184

PHON E518-253-5917

EMA I [email protected]

WEBS I T Ewww.harvestspirits.com

OP ENSat & Sun, 12–5pm or by appointment

TA S T I N G F E E SComplimentary

TOUR SYes

A C R E AG E200 acre apple farm

P RODUC T I O N750 cases 

OWNERDerek grout

D I S T I L L E RDerek grout

EVENTSDISTILLING 101 : Learn how we make our Core vodka, every weekend during business hours

For a complete list of Hudson-Berkshire Trail events visit:www.HudsonBerkshireExperience.com

THE ESSENTIALS

IN THE SPOTLIGHT

GRAPPANotoriously hard to make, Grappa is anItalian spirit derived from the grape press-ings. A local winemaker recently gave us aload of grape skins to experiment with.Instead of adding sugar and water to theskins, we fermented them by adding sweetcider to the must. Although this will notbe considered a traditional grappa, the testtrials reveal promising flavors of fresh,New York grapes.

CORE BLACK RASPBERRYVODKAOur Black Raspberry flavored COREVodka is distilled from hand-pickedblack raspberries and apples grown at ourfarm. It is inspired by the GermanHimbeergeist but has a touch of the blackraspberries’ juice added back in to create a clean and balanced vodka with a whisperof the fruit’s delicate flavor and color.Nothing artificial. No sugar added.

GETTING HEREFROM ALBANY AREA:Take Interstate I-90 East to Exit 12.Continue on Rt. 9 South for four miles.Harvest Spirits is on the left.FROM NYS THRUWAY (RT. 87):Exit 21A for the Berkshire Extention.Follow to exit B1.Continue on Rt. 9South for four miles. Harvest Spirits is on the left.

www.hvwinemag.com • Summer/Fall 2012 53

DISTILLERY

Page 56: Hudson Valley Wine Magazine Fall 2012

BEFORE PROHIBITION more than 1,000 farm distillers produced alcohol from NewYork grains and fruits. Tuthilltown Spirits brings the tradition of small batch distillationback to the Hudson Valley, distilling whiskeys which were the first legally distilled andaged grain spirits produced in New York since Prohibition. New York’s first Bourbon isHUDSON BABY BOURBON, distilled from 100% New York corn. The handmadespirits, which start at the farm distillery as raw grain and fruit, are made without addedflavor or color and are not chill or carbon filtered.

For 220 years Tuthilltown Gristmill, a landmark which is listed on the National Register ofHistoric Places, used waterpower to render local grains to flour. In 2001 Ralph Erenzo andVicki Morgan acquired the property and with the help of partner Brian Lee, they convertedone of the mill granaries to a micro-distillery. Two and a halfyears later, Tuthilltown Spirits produced their first batches of vodka from scraps they collected at a local apple slicing plant.

Today, Tuthilltown Spirits distills vodkas from apples grownat orchards less than 5 miles away and whiskeys using grainharvested by farmers less than 10 miles away. The farm dis-tillery also produces rum, eau de vie, brandy, absinthe, andinfusions. Guests are welcome to stop in for tastings duringstore hours and tours are offered by appointment.

Tuthilltown Spirits proudly celebrates the followingachievements:2012 American Distilling Institute Competition

– Silver Medal, Hudson Four Grain Whiskey– Bronze Medal, Hudson Baby BourbonSan Francisco World Spirits Competition– Bronze Medal, Hudson Baby Bourbon – Silver Medal, Hudson New York Corn Whiskey – Bronze Medal, Hudson Four Grain Bourbon – Silver Medal, Hudson Manhattan Rye – Silver Medal, Hudson New York Single Malt

2011 San Francisco International Wine and SpiritsCompetition – Double Gold Medal, Hudson Baby Bourbon – Silver Medal, Hudson New York Corn Whiskey – Silver Medal, Hudson Four Grain BourbonCraft Whiskey Distillery of the Year, Tuthilltown Spirits, Whisky MagazineCraft Whiskey of the Year, Hudson Four Grain Bourbon, Whisky Guild

2010 American Distillers Institute – American Artisan Distillery of the Year, Tuthilltown Spirits – Best Package Award, Hudson Manhattan Rye – Silver Medal, Bourbon, Hudson Four Grain Bourbon – Silver Medal, Rye, Hudson Manhattan RyeBest New American Whiskeys of the Year, Hudson Whiskeys, Food & Wine Magazine

54 HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer/Fall 2012

TUTHILLTOWN SPIRITS DISTILLERYEstablished 2003

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MEET THE DISTILLERS Ralph Erenzo, Distiller, PartnerRalph brings 35 years of production anddevelopment experience to the distillery.Prior to starting Tuthilltown Spirits, hisbusiness ExtraVertical Inc. provided technical services to corporate and mediaclients for projects that required technicalskills developed over his 25 year rockclimbing career. Ralph built and managedNew York City’s first public climbinggyms including The ExtraVerticalClimbing Center on Broadway. His dreamof a “climbers ranch” near the largest rockclimbing area in the East were set aside infavor of producing high quality spirits.Ralph’s writing and commentary havebeen featured in national media includingOp Ed columns for the New York Times.His work at the State level has resulted inthe passage of the Farm Distillery Actwhich permits New York farms to estab-lish distilleries on site and sell theiragricultural spirits at the farm. Born andraised a New Yorker, he has realized a lifelong dream of settling in the HudsonValley. His son Gabe manages productionat the distillery.

Brian Lee, Distiller, PartnerBrian has designed and built the technicalfacilities for Tuthilltown Spirits. He isresponsible for engineering and all technical aspects of fermentation and distillation for the company. Brian servesas CFO for the company. Prior to hiswork with Tuthilltown Spirits, Brian was a senior technical designer for a companybuilding high-end broadcast televisionfacilities. His clients included SKY Latin-America, CBS, and NBC. He served asthe on-site technical consultant forESPN’s conversion to High DefinitionTelevision (HDTV). Brian’s technical andmechanical skills ensure all the systems atthe distillery continue to function and weare constantly on the search for more efficient methods. He is currently contemplating hydro and solar power assupplemental energy sources.

P RODUC TSHUDSON B A B YBOURBON

HUDSON F O URGR A I N B O URBON

HUDSONMANHAT TAN R Y E

HUD SON S I N G L EMA L T

HUDSON N EW Y O R KCORN WH I S K E Y

S P I R I T O F T H EHUDSON V O D K A

H E A R T O F T H EHUDSON V O D K A

ROGG EN ’ S R UM(aged in whiskey barrels)

T U TH I L L TOWNCASS I S L I Q U E UR

Page 57: Hudson Valley Wine Magazine Fall 2012

www.hvwinemag.com • Summer/Fall 2012 55

D I S T I L L E R YTuTHILLTOWN SPIRITS DISTILLERY

A DDR E SS14 grist Mill Lanegardiner, NY 12525

PHON E845-633-8734

EMA I [email protected]

WEBS I T Ewww.tuthilltown.com

OP ENvaries by season; Open year round

C LO S E Dvaries by season; Open year round

TA S T I N G F E E STasting: $10 per person Tasting & Tour: $15 per person

TOUR SAll weekends; Some weekdays by reservation

A C R E AG E8 acres 

P RODUC T I O N7,500 cases or less

OWNERRalph Erenzo and Brian Lee

MANAG E RCathy Erenzo

P RODUC T I O N M AN AG E RJoel Elder

EVENTSview our website for up-to-date listings oftastings and special events:tuthilltown.com/category/events

THE ESSENTIALS

IN THE SPOTLIGHTBATCH NUMBERSEach hand-made batch is truly unrepeat-able. Call the tasting room to inquireabout the distillers’ favorite batch num-bers of the season.

FARM MARKETSNew laws allowing distilled spirits sales atfarm markets will be passed soon! Pleasekeep an eye out for Tuthilltown Spirits atthe farm markets nearest you.

GETTING HEREFROM NORTH (ALBANY): Take NYSThruway 87 South. Exit 18 for NY-299toward New Paltz/Poughkeepsie. Turn left at NY-299 W/Main St. Turn left at NY-32 S.Turn right at NY-55 W/u.S. 44 W/Main St.Turn left at Albany Post Rd/Co Rd 9. Makethe 1st right onto Tuthilltown Rd. Take the2nd left off of Tuthilltown Rd. at theTuthilltown Spirits sign.

FROM SOUTH (NYC): Take NYS Thruway87 North. Exit 17 and follow signs for Route300. Head North on Route 300. Turn left atNY-55 W/u.S. 44 W/Main St. Turn left atAlbany Post Rd/Co Rd 9. Take the 1st rightonto Tuthilltown Rd. Take the 2nd left off ofTuthilltown Rd. at the Tuthilltown Spirits sign.

gPS address: 14 gristmill Ln gardiner, NY 12525

DISTILLERY

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56 HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer/Fall 2012

�for TasTiNgs, growlers & swag

Winner�of�the�2012

Matthew�Vassar�

Brewers'�Cup

•�Best�Craft�Brewery�•

in�the�Hudson�Valley

30 main street, Chatham, NY

518-697-0202

www.chathambrewing.com

opeN saturday from 11am–5pm

from Tap NY, The largesT beer fesTival iN NYs

Sloop BrewingHudson Valley’s Nano Brewerywww.sloopbrewing.comfacebook.com/SloopBrewing

DUTCHESS COUNTY

DISTILLER

Y

Coppersea Distilling LLC 1592 Broadway (Rte 9W)West Park, NY 12493845-444-1044www.coppersea.com

ULSTER COUNTY

BREWERIESOF THE HUDSON VALLEY

Who doesn’t enjoy a good beer nowand then? There’s nothing like a frosty glass of ale to quench athirst on a hot summer’s day, a satisfying lager after a hard day’s

work, or warming up with rich, creamy stout ona chilly fall evening. But what makes craft brewsmore desirable and all the rage in the HudsonValley right now? For starters, they’re fresh, full of flavor and you can taste their natural, mostoften local, ingredients. Plus, brewpubs are a funplace to hang out, especially when there’s a goodfood menu to complement your choice of beer.

Although brewing dates back to the age of the first known civilization – the ancient Sumerians– many of us don’t realize how much of theprocess of going from grain to glass is dependentupon the brewmaster. Like wine, making beerdepends on the personal preferences and experi-ence of the maker, and in the case of craftbreweries, the brewmaster’s penchant for experi-mentation is what establishes his or her own styleand reputation.

Unlike winemaking, though, a brewer can experi-ment more quickly with different flavors andingredients, and even with fermentation practices (such as aging the beer in used wine or bourbon barrels, or letting the beer ferment right in thebottle) and the end result can be sampled in about8 to 12 weeks. With winemaking, the processtranspires over seasons, sometimes years.

The basic ingredients – grain (such as barley),water, yeast, and hops, are a constant in beermaking. A brewer will use hops in practically thesame way a chef would use salt or pepper, to balance the sweetness of the malt. Specialtyingredients like herbs, spices, sweeteners, andfruit impart a subtle, yet unique flavor to thebeer, and are used to create seasonal, sometimessignature styles. It’s interesting to note thatalthough each brewer will use their own uniquerecipes, the same recipe can produce varyingresults from brewer to brewer, depending on theminerality of the water they use, where the ingre-dients come from, and how the grains are malted(hydrated), usually by an outside “maltster.”

They say that variety is the spice of life, and with all the different styles and unique flavors ofIPAs, ales, lagers, and stouts being crafted at theHudson Valley breweries, you’ll want to be sureto stop in and taste what’s new on tap. •

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Page 59: Hudson Valley Wine Magazine Fall 2012

BREWERIES NEW

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www.hvwinemag.com • Summer/Fall 2012 57

HVW: Let’s begin with a little background. How did you getstarted making beer?HUTCH: Actually, my mother bought me a home brew kit, soit all started as a hobby. After college, about 11 years ago, Iwas living in North Carolina teaching 7th grade science andsocial studies. Then one summer I got a seasonal job inOregon as assistant brewmaster and was hooked. I moved toLake Placid and became Head Brewer at Great Adirondack,then moved to the Ithaca Beer Company. Ithaca was a reallylarge operation, so when I first met Ken [Landin] and Janine[Bennett] and they asked me if I could recommend a brewerfor their new brewery in Athens, I thought, “Why not?”.HVW: So you’ve been with Crossroads since it opened...when only part of the Opera House was renovated...HUTCH: Yeah, I moved to Athens when the brewhouseopened in 2010 and there was just a small tasting room. In2011 they renovated the front room and opened the bar to thepublic, and just a month or so ago the kitchen opened. It’sbeen great to be part of the growth.HVW: Everyone has their favorite beer memory. When did youfirst discover your love of beer?HUTCH: Actually, my “lightbulb beer” moment was a goodcraft beer I discovered in 1997 when I was living in Oregoncalled Mirror Pond Pale Ale from Deschutes Brewery. It has areally hop-forward nose and hop flavor which is funny becauseI have an older brother who used to brew at home when wewere growing up, and I used to hate the smell.

HVW: What’s your favorite style of beer and how does it reflect in your own beermaking?HUTCH: I like full-flavored beers so I tend to gravitatetowards making those, like IPA. I make a lot of IPA. BelgianSaison, Maggies Farmhouse Ale are really unique and com-plex...I like to experiment with making those types of beerstoo – strong, bold, earthy flavors.HVW: What are some of the challenges/benefits of makingbeer in the Hudson Valley?HUTCH: I try to use local, or at least NY ingredients likespices, herbs, fruits etc., but there are limitations as far as thatgoes. Especially in obtaining local hops although I hear thatmay be coming to the Valley. Athens is a small town, so youhave to create your own demand and draw people to thebrewery. But we have good access to and from NYC, andwe’re right off the main highway, close to Catskill, and nowthere’s a ferry to and from Hudson that brings people onweekends, so we always sell out.HVW: Any advice for new brewers?HUTCH: Go for it!

HEAD TO HEADwith “Hutch” KugemanHudson Valley Wine Magazine editors caught up with the award-winning Head Brewer at Crossroads Brewing Companyfor a hearty discussion on brewing in the historic circa 1893 Opera House in Athens, Greene County, NY.

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58 HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer/Fall 2012

NEW YORK • PARIS • LONDONEVENT PLANNING & FINE CATERING

lemoulincatering.com

Josyane Colwell 914.469.6762

WINE-FRIENDLY FARM MARKETS

Albany CountyCohoes Farmers’ MarketLarge Municipal Parking Lot on Historic Remsen Street 185-187 Remsen Street, CohoesFridays: 4pm–7pm, June–Oct 5www.cohoesfarmersmarket.comFeaturing: Brotherhood Winery (in rotation)

Orange CountyWarwick Valley Farmers’ MarketSouth Street LotVillage of Warwick Sundays: 9am–2pm, rain or shine May 13–Nov 18warwickvalleyfarmersmarket.orgFeaturing: Applewood Winery, Warwick Valley Winery

Putnam CountyCold Spring Farmer’s MarketBoscobel House & Gardens parking lot, 1601 Route 9D (just south of Cold Spring Village) Sat: 8:30am–1:30pmMay 12–Nov 17www.csfarmmarket.orgFeaturing (in rotation): Adair Vineyards,Palaia Vineyards, Warwick Valley Winery,Whitecliff Vineyards

Sullivan CountyHarvest Festival at Bethel Woods200 Hurd Road, BethelSun: 11am–4pmSept 9–Oct 7www.BethelWoodsCenter.org

Ulster County Saugerties Farmers MarketSummer: 115 Main StreetWinter: 207 Market StreetSummer: Sat 10am–2pm May 26–Oct 20Winter: Sundays noon–4pm(once/month before holidays)SaugertiesFarmersMarket.comFeaturing: Cascade Winery

Westchester County Hartsdale Farmers MarketAqueduct Road (off EastHartsdale Avenue), Hartsdale Sat: 8am–3pmJune–Nov

CAN’T GET TO THE WINERY? There’s no better time thanharvest season to stock up on fresh produce, cheese, jellies,jams, artisanal treats, and local wine at these markets:

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60 HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer/Fall 2012

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Located just 90-minutes from MidtownManhattan, the Upper Hudson Valleyoffers metropolitan urbanites the opportu-nity to trade in the lackluster shades of thecity for some of Upstate New York’s moststunning hues and vistas. Visitors to thearea can embark on scenic hikes, go pump-kin picking, visit a working farm or dine ona delightful assortment of autumn flavorsexquisitely paired with tastefully selectedwines from the areas premiere vineyards.

Situated at the epicenter of the region’ssparkling wines, vinifera and French/American varietals and blends is Honor’sHaven Resort & Spa; in the quaint village of Ellenville, NY.

Nestled in the heart of the ShawangunkMountain Region, the gateway to theCatskills and home to the infamousShawangunk Wine Trail, Honor’s HavenResort & Spa enhances its breathtakingsetting by providing 232 well-appointedrooms and suites as well as The Spa atHonor’s Haven, where you can pamperyourself with a number of treatments andservices in a serene environment; alleviat-ing stress and tension (facials, skin care,massages and body work).

During the month of October, visitors tothe region should definitely check outtwo fantastic fall getaways offered exclu-sively at Honor’s Haven; the Fall FoliageWeekend Getaway and the always popularShawangunk Wine Trail Package. Bothpackages promise the avid leaf peeper adramatic explosion of vibrant shades ofcrimson, gold, ginger and bronze; anamazing sight that can only be compli-mented by their host of onsite and nearbyattractions that include golfing, horsebackriding, canoeing, kayaking, fishing, shopping, casino action and of coursetours of the area’s wineries!

To learn more about booking yourown awe inspiring autumn getaway visitwww.honorshaven.com or call 877-969-4283.

Also make sure to like Honor’s HavenResort & Spa on Facebook for yourchance to win a fabulous weekend escapefor two!

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A D V E R T O R I A L

Breathtaking views of the lake and Shawangunk Mountains at Honor’s Haven Resort & Spa.

Photo by Tomas Donoso; Courtesy of Brotherhood, America’s Oldest Winery

Page 63: Hudson Valley Wine Magazine Fall 2012

By Josyane Colwell, EXECUTIVE CHEF

Le Moulin Event Planning & Cateringwww.lemoulincatering.com

Growing up in Nice in the south ofthe France, one of my fondestmemories was vacationing in the“back country”– l’arrière-pays.

On the weekends in mid-summer, the familieswith all their kids would pack into the cars anddrive up north, just for fun. There, we wouldpick buckets full of the black currants that grewwild in the woodlands. We would take themback to the house to make jams, syrups and usethem in our crépes, with yogurt and of course,with freshly-baked croissants. As I got older, Ilearned to enjoy the black currants in anotherform – Cassis! A Kir, or on special nights, a Kir Royale – made by filling a glass first withthe Cassis, then topping it with white wine orChampagne – was a drink I enjoyed often.

So imagine my surprise to learn that black currants grow right here in the Hudson Valley,and Cassis is being made here too! With cur-rants, as with grapes, you can taste the distinctterroir, so I was curious and anxious to tastesome from the Hudson Valley. I have to say Iwas pleasantly surprised by the similarities, and the differences, between the styles.

French Créme de Cassis is typically a bit denser,thicker and sweeter than some of those I’ve triedhere – perhaps because the berries get to lingerin the sun a little longer in France. The fruit ismore concentrated and the aroma very pungent.Like the Dijon countryside, it is rustic yetrefined, with only 14 to 15% alcohol by volume.

Of the few Hudson Valley Cassis’ I’ve tried,when I opened Warwick Valley’s AmericanFruits Black Current Cordial there was animmediate emotional connection. The aromareminded me of the hills and mountains whereI picked the wild berries as a child. It is highly-fruited, with an earthy nose that reflects thematurity of the berries. I was intrigued by itspart rustic, part “American rebel”style, with18% alcohol.

So I decided to create a dish with duck to complement the robust, bold flavors of this cordial, and combined the liqueur with blue-berries (another favorite fruit of mine, but moreon that at another time) to glaze the sizzlingmeat. Try it with other Cassis made in theHudson Valley too. Bon appetit! •

GLAZED BREAST OF DUCK WITH

BLACK CURRANT & BLUEBERRY SAUCEAND GRILLED ORGANIC CARROTS

Sears Succulent DuckT H E C O N V I V I A L T A B L E

Serves 2

2 breasts of duck (magret) 1 cup Black Currant Cordial

¼ cup dry red wine

1 tablespoon honey

1 quart blueberries

8 whole organic baby carrots, trimmed

To prepare the duck, score the skin (fatty) side of the duck breast with 3 shallow diagonal cuts without cutting through to the meat. Turnbreasts over and remove silver tendon. Season both sides with salt andblack pepper.

Preheat sauté pan over high heat. (I prefer cast iron skillets without anon-stick surface.) Place breast, skin side down to naturally render the fat in the hot skillet. Sear until skin is golden, approximately 10minutes.

Turn the breast and cook the meaty side of the breast in the renderedfat for another 10 minutes. (The duck fat in skillet will add flavor as the meat cooks.) Reduce heat and turn the breasts back to the skin sidefor a final browning. Remove from skillet and let rest.

Add honey, cordial and red wine to skillet. Do not remove fat. Addblueberries to skillet and heat. Slice breast diagonally and return to panfor finishing.

In the meantime, steam carrots in a pot of boiling salted water forabout 5 minutes or until just tender. Gently remove them from the pot,then roll them in olive oil, add salt and pepper, and place on heatedstovetop grill until grill marks show.

Garnish the duck with the glazed carrots. Serve with dry red wineand/or a small glass of Black Currant Cordial.

www.hvwinemag.com • Summer/Fall 2012 61

Page 64: Hudson Valley Wine Magazine Fall 2012

ON THE WEB:

HUDSON VALLEY WINE COUNTRY

Updated to include an expanded listof wineries up and down the HudsonValley, you’ll find all you need toknow to plan your tour includingplaces to stay and eat, and things to do: www.hudsonvalley-winecountry.org

SEEDLINGS WHAT’S NEW TO BUY, TRY, OR DO

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facebook.com/hudsonvalleywinemagazine

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LOCKED- IN LOCAL FLAVORIt’s 2012, do you know where your food comes from? Hudson ValleyHarvest flash-freezes their produceand meat right where it comes from –harvested at the peak of freshness fromsustainable, small-scale Hudson Valleyfarms. And with its no-frills packagingand straightforward labeling you can literally trace how far it’s traveled before it hit your plate. Sauté their summersquash mix with a little olive oil, dicedshallots, salt & pepper, pair with a localwine and the result is simple, local anddelicious. Available at over 150 retail locations throughout the Hudson Valley and NYC area. Visit www.hv-harvest.com

62 HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer/Fall 2012

GOOD THINGS COME IN SMALL BATCHESThese sleek, stylish bottles of local libations are just some of theHudson Valley’s top-shelf offerings that will be gracing the shelves thisfall. Look for Harvest Spirits’ delicately flavored Black RaspberryCore Vodka in their equally seductive signature bottle; TuthilltownSpirits’ new Half Moon Orchard Gin, made from wheat and theHudson Valley’s ubiquitous apples, in a package that evokes a spirit ofexploration; and the “intriguingly different” Curious Gin, burstingwith exotic flavors and handcrafted by Catskill DistillingCompany. While you’ll appreciate their sophisticated good looksand clean design, you’ll also savor their natural ingredients andsmooth, balanced flavors. Available at select retailers. JAM IT UP

The time has come to give marmaladea fair shake. Cooked and bottled byhand in the Hudson Valley the old-fashioned way, these sweet citrusjellies with little bits of suspendedfruit and rind inside are all grown up,and now the latest resurgent ingredi-ent in classic cocktails. Add a spoonor two of LunaGrown Grapefruit,Lemon or Lime Marmalade to yourfavorite martini recipe, and yourpalate will be pleasantly surprised. Itadds depth, richness and an elegantair – suitable for the Savoy circa1930. For recipes and more info visitwww.lunagrown.com

Page 65: Hudson Valley Wine Magazine Fall 2012

POCKET WINE

iPhone, iPod touch, and iPad (v1.2)

$ 3.99

www.wineparadigm.com

Pocket Wine offers a concise,yet detailed introduction into the complexworld of grape varieties, wines and wineblends. Offering definitions and grouping byboth style (aromatic, fruity, etc.), grapes(alphabetically) and food types (red meats,pasta/pizza, etc.) the app is an excellentportable encyclopedia for the wine novice,and a helpful reminder for more experiencedoenophiles. There is a noticeable lack of ourregional varietals among the 78 wine grapeslisted. While the more common names likeRiesling, Chardonnay and Cab Franc areincluded, most popular East Coast andHudson Valley varietals such as Baco Noir,Seyval Blanc, Leon Millot, DeChaunac,Vignoles, Cayuga, Marechal Foch, to name a few, are absent. Otherwise it’s a handypocket reference at your fingertips!

www.hvwinemag.com • Summer/Fall 2012 63

BOOKS

qAPPS

q

WHAT WE LIKE:

– Simple and easy navigation

– Glossary of terms

– Can create personal “My Taste” profilesand notes on grape varietals

– Offline use, email support, no ads

WHAT WE’D LIKE TO SEE:

– More support for local varietals likeBaco Noir, Seyval Blanc, Cayuga, etc.

BEVERAGE BASICS : UNDERSTANDING AND APPRECIAT ING WINE , BEER ,AND SPIR ITSRobert W. Small and Michelle Couturier

Understanding the fundamentals of wine can be overwhelming andconfusing. Add beer and spirits tothe mix and the task is even more formidable. Beverage Basics,Understanding & Apprec-iating Wine, Beer & Spirits,a comprehensive, well-structuredbook by Robert W. Small, Ph.D.and Michelle Couturier, withMichael Godfrey on beer, covers

the essentials of these beverages in an easy-to-read format,including almost everything you’ll need to know to get moreout of your beverage tasting experience.

Beverage Basics opens with the often-overlooked history of beverages, the health-related and social issues surrounding alcohol, as well as laws regarding its sale and distribution.Covered are the basics trials and tribulations of growing grapesand making wine. Its 460+ pages are heavily illustrated withsidebars, charts, and color photography depicting differentregions and highlighting key points, and even includes anaroma wheel. The appendix includes examples of wine and beerlabels from both New and Old World wine regions and how todecipher them, complete with useful regional maps.

Small, a wine and spirits expert and educator, chairman of the Los Angeles International Wine competition, and judgeat the New York Wine & Food Classic, presents wines the wayyou want to learn about them – by varietal, rather than origin.In each section, he provides information about the appellationswhere the varietal is grown, how it fares in the vineyard and its

CIDER ON A MISSIONAaron Burr’s infamous duel with Alexander Hamilton mayhave ended his political career, but few may know thatboth Burr and cider apples were instrumental in formingthe region during Colonial times – when men were men,and cider was America’s original table wine. Aaron BurrCidery in Wurtsboro now re-creates this popular bever-age with the same sense of irreverence as Mr. Burr himself,

even daring to craft cider from unsprayed wild andabandoned apples from local farms (making itthe first and only licensed cider of its kind). We can’t decide what we like better for quaffing on a late summer’s day – the rustic, tavern-styleHomestead Apple or the brisk, spicy yet sophisti-cated Ginger Cider, a blend of Orange Countycider apples fermented with grated ginger andcarrots. Now that’s a challenge we can handle.Visit www.aaronburrcider.com

continued on page 64

Page 66: Hudson Valley Wine Magazine Fall 2012

ORANGE COUNTY

Cornwall Wines & Spirits45 Quaker Ave., Suite 102Cornwall, NY 12518845-534-5140www.cornwallwines.com

ULSTER COUNTY

Fox and Hound Wine & Spirits20 New Paltz PlazaNew Paltz, NY 12561845-255-7475www.foxandhoundwines.com

Maddens Fine Wines & Spirits 65 Broadway, Kingston, NY 12401845-340-WINE (9463)www.maddensfinewines.com

Town & Country LiquorsCVS Plaza, Rt. 212Saugerties, NY 12477845-246-8931www.tcliquors.com

Shopping for Local Libations?You’ll find Hudson Valley wines & spirits at these shops:

PMS Green: 553

PMS Gold Metallic: 871

various wine styles, followed by aroma and taste profiles. Lastly,he covers how to enjoy the varietal, including buying, storing,serving and food pairing suggestions.

The book includes information about almost every conceivabletype of grape, including hybrids and native North American varieties. Unfortunately, the Hudson Valley AVA is not listed atall among the North American regions, nor is it indicated on themap of New York’s wine regions. Although varietals that aregrown here (such as Seyval Blanc, Vidal Blanc and Chambourcin)are included in the list of “Distinguishing Characteristics ofNorth American Wines,” they are listed under the state ofMissouri rather than New York, perhaps because of their limitedproduction here.

The beer and spirits sections are not as detailed as the chapterson wine, but they are presented in an equally user-friendly, simple to digest manner with enough visual aids to whet thereader’s appetite to learn more about the subject.

Beverage Basics is not the definitive work on the subject of wine,beer and spirits, but neither does it claim to be. Rather it armsthe reader with enough basic fundamentals to become a well-rounded consumer. Overall, it is a well-conceived book that iseducational for the novice, and will serve as a reliable guidebookfor those in the business – professional chefs, bartenders andsommeliers. Beverage Basics is a practical, all-in-one guide to theworld of wine, beer and spirits, and one that should easily find a place in your wine library.

Published by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. | $65.00www.wiley.com

Beverage Basicscontinued from page 63

64 HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer/Fall 2012

19 Crystal Run Crossing

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Phone: 845-692-0098

Fax: 845-692-0078

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Earn Wyndham Rewards Meeting Room Available – Pet FriendlyConvenient to Shawangunk Wine Trail,

Woodbury Common Outlet, Bethel Woods and West Point

Reservations: 800-771-7171www.microtelinn.com

Page 67: Hudson Valley Wine Magazine Fall 2012

www.hvwinemag.com • Summer/Fall 2012 65

A D V E R T O R I A L

Local Women Turn Adversity into Wine Brand

When Debbie Gioquindo wasdownsized, she thought lifehanded her a raw deal. Not

one to give up easily, she stayed in touchwith the world through social media.Good thing, because unbeknownst toher, her unexpected job loss and oneTweet were about to change her life.

Enter Keryl Pesce, author of Happy Bitch, whose book and brand are built on embracing life’s challenges. Pesce’s curveball came in the form of a painfuldivorce, which she subsequently used asa launching pad to rebuild her life, writea book and develop a brand designed to help other women live their happiestlives.

After Pesce released her book, she lookedfor the next opportunity to expand thebrand. What do women love? Whatbrings women together to celebrate lifeand happiness? You guessed it. Wine.

Pesce polled her followers via Twitter andemail, asking what they thought aboutthe idea of creating a Happy Bitch wine.With a 100% positive, ‘‘Yes, do it!”response, she knew she was on the righttrack. But one reply via Twitter was thecatalyst to bring the project to fruition.

Gioquindo, now with unexpected freetime on her hands, quickly respondedsuggesting Pesce make it a Hudson Valleyor New York wine. No surprise, asGioquindo is a wine educator and blog-ger known as the Hudson Valley WineGoddess. A few days later, the two metfor coffee, formed a partnership, andwere off to the races.

Working closely with a wine masterthrough multiple tasting trials, they cameup with a base blend. From there, threevariations were produced and brought tothe Hudson Valley Food &Wine Festivalin September 2011. The two invited fes-tival goers to taste the three blends andvote for their favorite.

“If we want our consumers happy withthe product, why not let them decidewhat we produce?” questions Pesce.

From idea to Tweet to now a productfound in stores throughout New Yorkand New Jersey, Happy Bitch Rosé hasreceived notable attention and mentionsin The New York Times, BloombergBusinessweek.com, Zagat andGotham.com.

Their wine is a lively blend of Chardonnayand Pinot Noir. “It’s not too dry and nottoo sweet,” says Gioquindo. “We loveour final product. We knew we had agreat message and branding, but it wasalso important that we have a qualityproduct inside.”

What’s the message they hope to imparton others? “None of us will get throughlife challenge-free,” shares Pesce. “Thekey is to understand every challengeserves us somehow. Don’t ask ‘Why me?’Ask ‘What’s next? How can I turn thisinto something positive?’”

‘‘We’re not just a wine,” says Gioquindo.‘‘We’re a lifestyle. We want to set anexample for others who face challengingtimes.” ■

Pesce (left) and Gioquindo (right)

Page 68: Hudson Valley Wine Magazine Fall 2012

WIN

E

CO U N

T

RY

New York alone has 12 wine regions, with three ofthe major ones being the Hudson Valley, LongIsland, and the Finger Lakes. And let’s not forget

the Greater Niagara Area region. Each is uniquely differ-ent from the other, and specializes in different varietals,styles and methods of winemaking. Before you start planning your trip, take a good look at the region andwhat is has to offer while you are there.

To do this, you’ll have to get online or on your mobiledevice. Most wine regions have their own websites orapps, and you’ll find there are many other wine travelwebsites that have trip planning tools as well. When youvisit these sites they’ll give you a better understanding ofthe region, its infrastructure and what accommodationsare available, along with lists of wineries to visit, ideas forthings to do, unique attractions, calendars of events, etc.

Strategically look for your lodging in an area that is easilyaccessible to everything (truth be told, I usually do this the old-fashioned way and get out a map). All regions havelodging choices that can accommodate your budget,whether it’s an off-the-main-road motel, a chain hotel, or a cozy bed & breakfast.

Next Step: WineriesNow its time to think about the wines you like and/orwould like to experience, and importantly, what the wineregion is best known for. Think about what kind of wineriesyou want to visit. Small, family-owned? Those with largefacilities? Ones that offer tours? Have picnic spots orrestaurants on site? Have live music or special events?

Once you’ve picked out a region, and honed in on thewineries you’d like to visit, it’s time to ask “how many

wineries can I visit in a day?” On a leisurely day, three tofour, depending on the infrastructure and geography of thewine region. If you begin immediately when the first wineryopens its doors then you can potentially visit six to eight ina day! As a general rule, allow yourself at least one hour ateach winery; some tastings will take more time if a tour isinvolved, others less.

And remember, when you’re on the road, if you see a winery that looks intriguing, stop! I’ve discovered some ofthe best wines and wineries by accident. In the tastingroom, don’t pass judgment on varietals you haven’t tried,this is the best time to taste and decide if you like them.Experiment a little, let your palate go.

66 HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer/Fall 2012

By Debbie Gioquindo, CtC, CSW, WlS

Keep in mind the time of year you are visiting. Some wineries are closed on certain holidays and during winter months, or may require anappointment especially if you are traveling with a group of eight or more.

WINE TASTING CHECKLISTaMaps, regional guides and magazines, and

a GPS unit (these can be indispensable to getyou from winery to winery, or around unfamiliarterritory)

aPlenty of bottled water

aSnacks like cheese and crackers, or bread to cleanse the palate

aA large cooler for your wine purchases (if it issummertime, you run the risk of spoiling yourpurchase if you drive around with wine in thetrunk)

aA corkscrew to pop open a bottle if you planon picnicking

aA pocket-size bottle of Wine-Away or Vino 911(in case that red wine gets on your white shirtor dress!)

Enjoying a wine region...glass by glass

Planning your trip through wine country can be a daunting task, especially ifyou aren’t familiar with the region. Every wine region is different, so don’texpect the wineries to be all on one road, one after another with an abundance of places to stop, eat or sleep. So let’s get started – fill up yourwine glass, rev up your computer and let the research begin...

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www.hvwinemag.com • Summer/Fall 2012 67

WINE CO

UNTRY TR

AVEL

FINGER LAKES REGION

A little advice on purchasing wines: If you try one and likeit, purchase it. Many wineries make certain wines in smallproduction, so if you don’t buy it while you are there, youmight find yourself contacting the winery weeks later, onlyto be disappointed to find it just sold out for the year.While at the winery purchase a few bottles of it, or if it isexceptional, even a case. Chances are when you bringthat bottle home and drink it, you’ll want more!

Remember you’re on vacation, so take full advantage ofthe region. When you are in wine country for severaldays, be sure you keep a day open for the other activi-ties that are suggested on the websites or by people youmeet. Don’t be afraid to ask the locals questions; you’llfind they love to give advice. Inquire about restaurantsthat they like to dine at, and even ask about their favoritewineries. There might be a great historic site to see orplace to hike that wasn’t mentioned on a website. Leavesome time for these other activities – they will enhanceyour overall wine country experience.

You might try beginning your day with a hearty breakfast,perhaps indulging in a spa treatment, or visiting a localmuseum, and then spend the afternoon wine tasting.

This will prevent palate fatigue, when all the wine beginsto taste the same. You will appreciate them more this way.

While You’re There...Remember too, that you aren’t out to get drunk, so don’tbe afraid to spit! It’s okay to lean over the dump bucketand spit out your wine. If others look at you strangely,well, they just don’t know the art of wine tasting. Six toeight hours of tasting can be tiring both for you and yourpalate. I have a rule – if I really like the taste of a particu-lar wine, then I savor it, enjoy it and swallow. Otherwise I look for the dump bucket. Everyone has a differentpalate and every winemaker has a different approach tomaking wines, so never be embarrassed to discard it orsay, “...this wine isn’t for me.”

I always encourage travelers to ask questions when visiting a winery. If you are talking to the winemaker orwinery owner, chances are they’ll be happy to talk aboutthemselves, their winery, and their philosophy on makingwine. Some initial questions you might want to ask:

• When was the winery started?• What brought you into the wine business?

If you’re enjoying your tasting and the staff at the winery, you’ll want to savor the experience and not worry about the time.

Try not to pack everything into one day –after all, you’re supposed to be relaxing!

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continued on page 68

Page 70: Hudson Valley Wine Magazine Fall 2012

68 HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer/Fall 2012

WHERE TO STAYHUDSON VALLEY REGION

Barclay Heights Bed & Breakfast at Smythe House158 Burt Street, Saugerties, NY 12477845-246-3788 | cell 845-532-5565www.OutstandingHospitality.com Experience Outstanding Hospitality; Luxury rooms, gourmet breakfast

WINE COUNTRY EVENTS

SEPTEMBER

Hudson Valley Wine & Food FestDutchess County Fairgrounds, Rhinebeck, NYSat–Sun, September 8–9www.HudsonValleyWineFest.com

Harvest Celebration of Food & WineKeuka Lake Wine Trail, Penn Yan, NYSat–Sun, September 15–16www.keukawinetrail.com

Taste of New PaltzUlster County Fairgrounds, New Paltz, NYSunday, September 16www.newpaltzchamber.org

Stems & SteinsWine, Beer, and Food FestivalNorth Street Recreation Center, Old Forge, NYSat–Sun, September 22–23www.viewarts.org/Stems_and_Steins.cfm

OCTOBER

Wine Festival at Bethel Woods200 Hurd Road, Bethel, NYSaturday, October 6www.bethelwoodscenter.org

NOVEMBER

Hudson Valley Wine Magazine Presentsthe Crown Maple Wine, Cider & Maple Fest47 McCourt Road, Dover Plains, NYSaturday, November 10crownmaple.com

DECEMBER

The Holiday Market at Bethel Woods200 Hurd Road, Bethel, NYSat–Sun, December 1–2, 11am–4pmwww.bethelwoodscenter.org

• How many cases do you produce in a year?• What is your signature wine, and why?• What would you drink if you weren’t drinking wine?• Will you be releasing any new wines soon?

When tasting individual wines, these questions mighthelp you discover why you like the wine or not:

• What is the vintage and varietal?• Is this estate wine (grapes grown in your vineyard)?• If not, where were the grapes sourced from?• What type of oak do you use for aging, if any?• Was it aged on the lees (the yeasty sediment after fermentation)?

Final notes: When touring wine country always enjoy thelocal cuisine and drink the local wines on the restaurantmenu. And don’t be disappointed when you get homeand open that bottle of wine that you loved at the wineryto find it doesn’t taste exactly as exciting as when youwere there. You’re just missing the ambience – the people and the place. Just think of it as an incentive totravel back to that particular wine region again – there’salways plenty more to explore.

Happy wine travels! •

A Sleepy Bed & Breakfast

VanWinkleInn

Enjoy a two nights stay at the VanWinkle Inn in Greenville, gourmet breakfast,

car service to and from 6 wineries, lunch served at a select winery plus a gift certificate towards dinner at

one of our fabulous local restaurants.

Fall Weekend Wine Tasting Tours

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CALL FOR DETAILS & RESERVATIONS518-966-4100 or 518-577-7109

GETTING AROUND

All Transportation NetworkThe Better Travel Experience.800-525-2306 www.alltrans.net

continued from page 67

Page 71: Hudson Valley Wine Magazine Fall 2012

ALBANY COUNTY

New World Bistro Bar200 Delaware Ave., Albany, NY 12209518-694-0520www.newworldbistrobar.com Executive Chef: Ric Orlando

The Wine Bar and Bistro on Lark 200 Lark St., Albany, NY 12210518-463-2881www.winebaronlark.com Chef/Owner: Kevin P. EverlethExecutive Chef: Jason T. BakerWine Spectator Magazine Award of Excellence 2009-2011

www.hvwinemag.com • Summer/Fall 2012 69

DUTCHESS COUNTY

2 Taste Food & Wine Bar4290 Albany Post RoadHyde Park, NY 12538845-233-5647www.2tastefoodandwinebar.comExecutive Chef: Stephen Smrcina

ULSTER COUNTY

Aroma Thyme Bistro165 Canal StEllenville, NY 12428845-647-3000www.aromathymebistro.com Executive Chef: Marcus GuilianoHudson Valley’s 1st Certified GreenRestaurant, 200 craft beers, 300 wines

New World Home Cooking Co. 1411 Rte 212, Saugerties, NY 12477845-246-0900www.newworldhomecooking.com Executive Chef: Ric Orlando

Vine-to-Table Dining

These fine restaurants and wine bars serve up localwines and spirits with award-winning culinary flair. Be sure to stop in and ask for your favorite beverageto pair with your meal.

Wine-ing a Wheycontinued from page 11

and the establishment in which it is served. By definition, aHeuriger is always attached to a vineyard which produces thevery wine that is served to customers. The word Heuriger, tomany, conjures up a small one-story house at the edge of avineyard, with a green bough on a stick over its entranceannouncing the presence of new wine. In the courtyards andalso indoors, one finds benches and wooden tables whoserough surfaces are laden with heavy glasses filled with dryrefreshing wine. Only warm food is served and most everyestablishment has an assortment of breads and deliciousspreads to start the meal. I have incredible memories ofevery Heuriger I visited. They are warm, inviting places tosample the local flavors with the local people. A uniqueexperience for any culinary traveler.

Getting back to Liptauer. . . I’ve been served numerous stylesof Liptauer ranging from mildly spicy with a more pickledflavor, to those with a bite – full of hot paprika, caraway andmustard seed. I’ve tried using many different types of cheeseincluding feta, cream cheese, quark, ricotta and goat milkchevre with varying results. My favorite version uses fresh

chevre and has a bit of a kick, perfect for pairing, servedspread on apples, sausage, brown bread or crackers.

You can experiment with amounts of spice, pickles and scal-lion but one thing is for sure, it’s a perfect starter with achilled glass of off-dry Riesling or medium-bodied Zweigelt.Spreading it on cured meats can switch up your wineoptions, so experiment! Try a Hudson Valley Traminette orGamay, and substitute Hawthorne Valley’s Quark or OldChatham Sheepherding Company’s fresh ricotta for differentvariations. Prost! •

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70 HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer/Fall 2012

EVEN

TS

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72 HUDSON VALLEY WINE • Summer/Fall 2012

Ty ’s T A K E - AWAYBy Michael “Ty the Wine Guy” Taiani

“Against all odds, we must do all topreserve the wine.”Had Abraham Lincoln, our 16th President, admired wine as much as one of his predecessors, Thomas Jefferson, this might have been the quote underthe Lincoln Memorial in Washington, D.C. This comes to mind since, on arecent summer excursion, my wife and I drove past the historic battle-grounds and wineries of eastern Virginia, we had an engaging discussion onhow Lincoln preserved the Union during the Civil War.

Needless to say, whenever I think of preservation, my favorite beverage ofchoice – wine – comes to mind. Never before has there been such an arrayof wine-preservation products available. And they’re not only for the at-home wine consumer. In fact, many are used in commercial applicationslike restaurants, wine bars, and tasting rooms (including those at ourHudson Valley wineries), ensuring that the wine in an uncorked bottleremains fresh, fresh, fresh!

It is worth noting a common misperception that some people have, in thatif wine contains alcohol, how can it turn bad? Well, in reality, wine is a natural, fruit-based chemical beverage (i.e., carbon-molecular compound)subject to aging, and so it requires some science to preserve it. Chef JuliaChild defined it best: “Wine is a living liquid…its life cycle comprisesyouth, maturity, old age, and death. When not treated with reasonablerespect it will sicken and die.” But before I begin to mention several of themost common preservation devices, I think it’s best to discuss a few of theculprits that lead to wine spoilage:

• Oxidation, the most common, is the process when oxygen (O2) moleculesinteract with “exposed” wine, usually along its surface edge, producingspoilage. This leads to a loss of color, flavor and aroma, and is oftenaccompanied with the smell of raisins, cooked fruits and/or stale walnuts.It is often visually detectable by a premature browning or yellowing of thewine. Causes: unprotected wine and/or cork failure.

• “Cooked” wine occurs when a wine bottle has been exposed to too muchheat; higher than the ideal storage temperature for wine (55° F). This isone reason why you should never store wine in the kitchen, as in mostcases temperatures can exceed the high 70s.

• Light-strike is when a wine bottle is exposed to sunlight for a prolongedperiod of time. Clear, colorless bottles are especially prone since they areable to absorb the full rays of the sun and ultraviolet light. These wineswill experience a color change while losing their flavors. A wine shopper’srule: Be weary of wine shops with many clear, unprotected windows orthose that use retail window displays.

If you’re going to spend money purchasing wine, you should really considerspending a little bit more to keep that bottle lasting as long as possible. Hereare some of the most common and popular solutions to avoid spoilage:

• Wine vacuum pumps/toppers. Whether electric or manual, the conceptis simple – they pump out the air in an uncorked a bottle before the winecan begin oxidizing. Removing oxygen keeps wine healthy for severaldays. No doubt the best value for temporary preservation.

• Nitrogen or Inert “Gas in-a-Can.” Pumping inert gas into an open winebottle creates a barrier preventing oxygen molecules from contacting thewine’s surface. However, this solution is a bit pricier in the long run –when the can is empty, it’s empty, and time to buy another!

• Wine refrigerators, aka Coolers. There are many brands with differentbottle count capacities and styles to choose from. While they vary inexpense, a proper wine “fridge” will have glass doors with a UV coating to prevent exposure to direct sunlight and to keep the bottles in a safetemperature range which will prevent “cooking.”

• Room-darkening curtains/blinds. If you have to store your wine athome out in the open, these will at least help filter out the light whilekeeping the room marginally cooler – especially during the peak summermonths when the sun’s rays are at their strongest.

These and similar products can be found at any of the major home storesthroughout the Hudson Valley, and/or online. Simply analyze your preser-vation needs and then have fun shopping. Its worth the time, effort, andexpense to ensure you get the most out of your wine. •

P R E S E N T S

Jewelry of the Americas7th Annual Conference on Jewelry

The all-day conference is held in a turn-of-the-century private club in New York City

October 7, 2012

For more information go to: www.jewelryconference.com

Non-members are welcome to attend. ASJRA, 246 N. Regent St., Port Chester, NY 10573(914) 286-7685 or [email protected]

Tip of the Iceberg ring, Niki Kavakonis

FLINT MINE PRESSwww.flintminepress.com

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“Pandora’s Bottle is as delicious as a vintageChâteau Lafite and almost as rare—a novelthat is as entertaining as it is smart.

– Marc Acito

Pandora’sBOTTLE

Joanne Sydney Lessner

inspired by the world’smost expensive bottle

of wine & the wineries ofthe hudson valley

Page 75: Hudson Valley Wine Magazine Fall 2012

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StewartInternational

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MAP LEGEND

Winery

Brewery

Distillery

Sullivan

NEWYORK

THE R

EGIO

N

Applewood Winery82 Four Corners RoadWarwick, NY 10990applewoodwinery.com

Brotherhood Winery100 Brotherhood Plaza Dr.Washingtonville, NY 10992brotherhoodwinery.net

Palaia Vineyards20 Sweet Clover RoadHighland Mills, NY 10930palaiavineyards.com

Warwick Valley Winery & Distillery114 Little York Road Warwick, NY 10990wvwinery.com

Hudson Valley Wineries, Distilleries& Breweries

Orange County

BashaKill Vineyards1131 South RoadWurtsboro, NY 12790bashakillvineyards.com

Catskill Distilling Company2037 State Rt. 17BBethel, NY 12720catskilldistilling.com

Adair Vineyards52 Allhusen RoadNew Paltz, NY 12561adairwine.com

Baldwin Vineyards176 Hardenburgh Road Pine Bush, NY 12566baldwinvineyards.com

Benmarl Winery156 Highland AvenueMarlboro, NY 12542benmarl.com

Brimstone Hill Vineyard61 Brimstone Hill RoadPine Bush, NY 12566brimstonehillwine.com

Cereghino Smith2583 Route 32Bloomington, NY 12411cereghinosmith.com

Glorie Farm Winery40 Mountain RoadMarlboro, NY 12542gloriewine.com

Robibero Winery714 Albany Post RoadNew Paltz, NY 12561rnewyorkwine.com

Stoutridge Vineyard10 Ann Kaley LaneMarlboro, NY 12542stoutridge.com

Tuthilltown Spirits Distillery14 Grist Mill LaneGardiner, NY 12525tuthilltown.com

Whitecliff Vineyard331 McKinstry RoadGardiner, NY 12525whitecliffwine.com

Ulster County

Millbrook Vineyards & Winery26 Wing RoadMillbrook, NY 12545millbrookwine.com

Dutchess County

Chatham Brewing30 Main StreetChatham, NY 12037chathambrewing.com

Harvest Spirits3074 US Route 9Valatie, NY 12184harvestspirits.com

Hudson-Chatham Winery1900 State Route 66Ghent, NY 12075hudson-chathamwinery.com

Tousey Winery1774 Route 9Germantown, NY 12526touseywinery.com

Columbia County

Brookview Station Winery1297 Brookview Station Road Castleton-on-Hudson, NY 12033brookviewstationwinery.com

Rensselaer County

Greene CountyCrossroads Brewing Company21 Second StreetAthens, NY 12015crossroadsbrewingco.com

Map of select wineries, distilleries and breweries featured in this issue. Map artwork ©2012Hudson Valley Wine Magazine. Map may not be reproduced or used in any form without theexpress written permission of the publisher. Contact [email protected]

Illus

tration: emster.com

BashaKillVineyards

WhitecliffVineyard

MillbrookVineyards &Winery

Hudson-ChathamWinery

BrookviewStationWinery

TouseyWinery

AdairVineyards

PalaiaVineyards

Glorie FarmWinery

StoutridgeVineyard

Warwick ValleyWinery &Distillery

ApplewoodWinery

HarvestSpirits

TuthilltownSpiritsDistillery

BaldwinVineyards

BenmarlWinery

BrimstoneHill Vineyard

CrossroadsBrewingCompany

Sullivan County

CatskillDistillingCompany

BrotherhoodWinery

ChathamBrewing

CereghinoSmith

Page 76: Hudson Valley Wine Magazine Fall 2012