document

CHICAGO’S 2016 OLYMPIC HOPESMAYOR RICHARD M. DALEY ON GOING FOR THE GOLD PG. 11

GYMNASTICSMEDALIST SHAWN JOHNSONAND UNITED’S LONG-STANDING SUPPORT OF THE U.S. OLYMPIC TEAMPG. 14

TRAVEL TIPS FROM SOCCER MEDALIST CARLI LLOYD PG. 130

PLUS THREE PERFECT DAYS: BUDAPEST

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“ I’d love to be a pilot. Flying’s a part of my life now, and I just think it’s really cool.”

WHO CARLI LLOYD27 / Chicago Red Stars pro soccer player (and 2008 Olympic gold medalist)

WHY I’M FLYING I’m heading to Los Angeles with the U.S. Women’s national team for a two-week training camp. We’re preparing for the 2011 World Cup in Germany. I’m on a plane seven or eight times a month.

I NEVER LEAVE HOME WITHOUT My eye mask and neck pillow, and I wear Skins compression tights under my pants, which help keep my legs from swelling. Also, I stay connected with my laptop and BlackBerry, and I always stop for a huge bottle of water before boarding. You’ve got to stay hydrated.

IF I WEREN’T A SOCCER PLAYER I’d love to be a pilot. Flying’s a part of my life now, and I think it’s really cool. It’s a dream of mine to be in a cockpit.

BY PETER KOCH

in transit

SEPTEMBER 2009 | UNITED.COM

130

PHOTOGRAPH BY SPENCER HEYFRON

GETTING TO KNOW YOU

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ENJOY A SNACKBOX OR A FRESH FOOD ITEM. Breakfast is available on fl ights departing before 10 a.m. A choice of snackboxes, salads and sandwiches is available on fl ights departing after 10 a.m. and prior to 8 p.m. Active and Classic snackboxes are $6; Luxe and Organic are $7; fresh food items are $9. Individual à la carte snack items are available for $3 each on fl ights two hours and longer.*

SNACKBOXES // AVAILABLE ON MAINLINE FLIGHTS OF TWO HOURS AND LONGER. $6–$7*

• Stoned Classics Tortilla Chips• Heinz Salsa• Blue Diamond Almonds• Think Fruit Chocolate

Pomegranate Power Bar• Newman’s Own Organic Raisins• Hannah’s Honey Cured Turkey Stick

• Kettle Backyard BBQ Chips• Oreo Cookies• Jelly Belly Gourmet Jelly Beans• Pepperidge Farm Goldfi sh Crackers• Sparrer Beef Salami• Gourmet Cheddar Cheese

Spread• Pepperidge Farm Crackers

• Rondele Peppercorn Parmesan Cheese Spread• Pepperidge Farm Crackers• Food Should Taste Good Multigrain Tortilla Chips• Oloves Mediterranean or

Vinaigrette Olives• Wild Garden Hummus Dip• Real Torino Sesame Breadsticks• Ashers Dark Chocolate Pretzel

• Late July Organic Cheddar Cheese Crackers

• Terra Nostra Organic Dark Chocolate Square• Kettle Valley Organic Fruit Snack• Nature’s Path Organic Pumpkin

Flaxplus Granola• Bare Fruit Organic Cinnamon

Apple Chips

À LA CARTE ITEMSOn fl ights two hours and longer• Lay’s Stax Potato Chips• Walkers Shortbread Cookies• Toblerone Chocolate Bar• Clif Bar Oatmeal Raisin Walnut• Odwalla Banana Nut Nutrition Bar• Fisher Salty Nut Mix

SANDWICHES

LUNCH AND DINNER SALADS

Smoked Turkey and Swiss Club

Turkey and Bacon Cobb Salad

On selected intra-Pacifi c fl ights originating from Japan, enjoy a Trader Vic’s meal in United First or United Business.

FRESH FOOD ITEMS // ONE CHOICE AVAILABLE ON SELECT FLIGHTS OF FIVE HOURS AND LONGER. $9*

BREAKFASTAn assortment of gourmet cheese and crackers, accompanied by a seasonal fresh-fruit mixture, fresh yogurt and one of the following:• banana miniloaf• raspberry breakfast cake• apple Danish

*United fl ights within North America (including U.S., Canada, Mexico, Central America and the Caribbean) accept credit/debit cards only. Effective September 2, Europe and South America fl ights will accept credit/debit cards only. United Express fl ights accept cash only.

Due to limited space, all snackboxes may not be available on all fl ights.

Snackbox contents may vary slightly based on product availability. None of the items in the snackboxes contain peanuts, peanut fl our or peanut oil. Some products have been manufactured in a facility that also processes peanuts and are labeled as such. Flight attendants will advise which selections are available on your fl ight.

ALL SALADS ACCOMPANIED BY A SELECTION OF FRESH, SEASONAL MIXED FRUIT.

TURKEY AND BACON COBB SALAD Crisp romaine lettuce topped with diced roasted turkey, chopped bacon, diced tomatoes, sliced black olives, diced Swiss cheese and hard boiled-egg wedges, served with a balsamic vinaigrette dressing.JULIENNE CHEF SALAD Crisp romaine lettuce topped with Black Forest ham, julienne oven-roasted turkey breast, Napa cabbage, shredded cheddar cheese, diced tomato, chopped black olives and sliced hard-boiled egg, served with ranch dressing.GRILLED ASIAN CHICKEN SALAD Grilled Asian chicken breast served with a blend of radicchio and Napa cabbage along with fresh cilantro, cucum-bers and julienne carrots, served with an Asian sesame-ginger dressing.

EACH SANDWICH IS SERVED WITH A BAG OF CHIPS.

SMOKED TURKEY AND SWISS CLUB WRAP Thin-sliced mesquite turkey breast and turkey bacon, topped with crisp romaine lettuce, cucumber, tomato, red onion and Swiss cheese, with a spinach-cream cheese spread on a fl our tortilla.GRILLED TUSCAN CHICKEN AND SALAMI WRAP Sliced marinated chicken breast, thinly sliced Genoa salami and provolone cheese, topped with baby spinach, shredded Napa cabbage, roasted red tomato and kalamata olives, with a basil garlic-cream cheese spread on a fl our tortilla.TURKEY, CHEDDAR AND ASPARAGUS WRAP Sliced oven-roasted turkey breast and cheddar cheese, topped with shredded Napa cabbage, baby spinach, asparagus and roasted red tomato, with a spinach-cream cheese spread on a fl our tortilla.

129

ACTIVECHOICEMENU

ACTIVECHOICEMENU

CLASSICCHOICEMENU

LUXECHOICEMENU

ORGANIC

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | SEPTEMBER 2009

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HAVE A REFRESHING DRINKNONALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES

WINES

• Soft Drinks• Tonic Water• Seltzer Water• Natural Spring Water• Milk• Tea• Assorted Fruit Juices• Starbucks Regular and

Decaffeinated Coffees

UNITED FIRST AND BUSINESS INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS Please refer to the printed menu.

BEER, COCKTAILS, SPIRITS AND LIQUEURS

UNITED FIRST, BUSINESS AND ECONOMY

Starbucks Coffee

Coke Diet Coke

Sprite Sprite Zero

Ginger Ale Bloody Mary Mix

Apple and Tomato Juices

Spring Water

Selections may vary on United Express fl ights.

It is United policy on all fl ights to ask you to use only the lavatories in your ticketed cabin. This policy complies with the U.S. Transportation Security Administration directive that passengers on international fl ights to the U.S. may use only the lavatories in their ticketed cabin.

Alcohol may be served to customers over 21 only. By FAA rule, we may not serve alcohol to customers who appear intoxicated. Customers are limited to one alcoholic beverage at a time during service. Only alcohol provided by United and served by fl ight attendants may be consumed onboard.

BEER• Miller Genuine Draft• Miller Lite• Heineken

Beer offerings are subject to availability. A selection of regional beers is offered on some international fl ights.

COCKTAILS• Bloody Mary• ScrewdriverSPIRITS• Bacardi Rum• Canadian Club Reserve• Dewar’s White Label Scotch• Finlandia Vodka• Jack Daniel’s Tennessee Whiskey• Jim Beam Black Bourbon Whiskey• Tanqueray Gin

LIQUEURS• Courvoisier VSOP Cognac• Bailey’s Irish Cream • Kahlúa

The following are available only on international fl ights:• Absolut Vodka• Chivas Regal Scotch• Di Saronno Amaretto• Glenlivet Scotch (premium cabins only)

FOOD& BEVERAGESRELAX WITH YOUR FAVORITE DRINK. Beverage service is available on most United fl ights. Alcoholic beverage selections vary according to cabin class and international or domestic fl ight status. Alcoholic beverages are available for $6 on most fl ights.

UNITED FIRST AND BUSINESS DOMESTIC FLIGHTS You will be offered a choice of red and white wines. Selections may include the following:

RED• Montevina Sierra Zinfandel

2005 California • Trapiche Malbec 2008

Mendoza WHITE• Canyon Road Chardonnay

2007 California • Two Oceans Sauvignon Blanc

2008 Western Cape

THE FOLLOWING IS AVAILABLE ON SELECT UNITED FIRST AND BUSINESS DOMESTIC AND INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS:

SPARKLING WINE• Brut D’Argent NV

UNITED ECONOMY ALL FLIGHTS

RED• Kingfi sh Shiraz• Redwood Creek Cabernet

WHITE• Kingfi sh Chardonnay• Redwood Creek Chardonnay

HEM_0809_Food-Beverage.indd 1HEM_0809_Food-Beverage.indd 1 06/08/2009 15:2806/08/2009 15:28

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QUIZ

PLAYING THE NUMBERS SUDOKU

1. A. COSMOPOLITAN B. ZOMBIE C. KAMIKAZE D. SIDECAR E. HARVEY WALLBANGER 2. A. J.P. MORGAN B. P.T. BARNUM C. O.J. SIMPSON D. P.J. HARVEY E. L.L. BEAN 3. A. FRIENDS (COURTENEY COX, JENNIFER ANISTON, DAVID SCHWIMMER) B. ER (ANTHONY EDWARDS, MEKHI PHIFER, GEORGE CLOONEY) C. MOONLIGHTING (BRUCE WILLIS, CYBILL SHEPHERD, CURTIS ARMSTRONG) D. BUFFY THE VAMPIRE SLAYER (ALYSON HANNIGAN, MICHELLE TRACHTENBERG, SETH GREEN) E. SEINFELD (JULIA LOUIS-DREYFUS, MICHAEL RICHARDS, JASON ALEXANDER) F. STAR TREK (WILLIAM SHATNER, LEONARD NIMOY, NICHELLE NICHOLS).

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ACTUALLY, YES, IT IS WHAT YOU KNOW // BY NOAH TARNOWSUMMER SCHOOL

126 SEPTEMBER 2009 | UNITED.COM

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1. THE MIXOLOGY MINDBENDERName the mixed drink, based on the ingredients and the cryptic clue.

A. Shake vodka and triple sec with lime juice and cranberry juice, and you can take a quiz to fi nd out how spontaneous you are in the bedroom.

B. Blend several kinds of rum with apricot brandy, orange juice, lime juice, pineapple juice, passion fruit syrup, powdered sugar and ice, and you’ll be eating brains in no time.

C. Mix vodka, triple sec and lime juice with ice; strain, and die for the glory of the emperor.

D. Combine brandy with orange-fl avored liqueur and lemon juice; shake with ice and strain, and you’ll be tagging along with the two-wheeler.

E. Float Galliano liqueur on top of vodka and OJ, and the imaginary rabbit will be pounding on the room divider.

2. INITIALLY KNOWNName the famous people who are primarily known by their initials—without the initials. For example, “Oanne Athleen, extremely popular fantasy writer” indicates Joanne Kathleen Rowling, a.k.a. J.K. Rowling.

A. Ohn Ierpont, iconic businessmanB. Hineas Aylor, huckster supreme and circus showmanC. Renthal Ames, decidedly controversial retired athleteD. Olly Ean, English indie-rock musicianE. Eon Eonwood, Maine mail-order magnate

3. MOVIE + MOVIE + MOVIE = TVTake one star from each fi lm. Put them together, and you get the partial cast of what TV show?

A. Ace Ventura + Along Came Polly + Madagascar = ?B. Revenge of the Nerds + 8 Mile + Good Night and Good Luck = ?C. Die Hard + Taxi Driver + Better Off Dead = ?D. American Pie + Harriet the Spy + Austin Powers = ?E. Christmas Vacation + Coneheads + Pretty Woman = ?F. Dodgeball + Invasion of the Body Snatchers (1978) + Are We There Yet? = ?

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HEM_0909_Puzzle.indd 1HEM_0909_Puzzle.indd 1 12/08/2009 10:5512/08/2009 10:55

No.26400 Nobel Ltd.indd 1No.26400 Nobel Ltd.indd 1 10/08/2009 12:2310/08/2009 12:23

CROSSWORD

IF YOU FILL IN THE CROSSWORD PLEASE TAKE THE MAGAZINE WITH YOU SO IT’S REPLACED. // ANSWERS FOUND ON P. 49

ACROSS1. Mouse action 6. Aberdeen native 10. Hair or tooth maybe? 15. Bookie’s quote 19. Marsh wader 20. Make lower or quieter 21. Indian coin 22. Gratis 23. Spin doctor’s concern 24. Farm measure 25. None of the above 26. Diplomat’s asset 27. A fruitcake or screwball 28. Impress on paper or

metal 30. Bright thought 32. Acquire 33. Carpet layer’s calculation 35. Provide 39. Teatime treat 41. Flax fabric 44. Target 45. Thin out 46. Heavy fabric that

resembles velvet 48. Coarse fi le 49. Bathroom cleaner? 50. Chipping choice 51. Not present 53. Nonwinner 54. Musical chairs goal 55. Not budging 57. Smooch 61. “___ magic!” 62. Priest of the East 65. Kuala Lumpur’s

homeland 67. “ a chance” 68. African antelope 69. Honor thieves 71. Gave out 72. Rocks, to a bartender 73. Spoil 74. Country that borders

Thailand, Laos and Vietnam

78. Game piece 79. 20-20, e.g. 80. Call from the fl ock 82. British midafternoon

meal 83. Told a whopper 84. Beside 86. Mouthed 88. Italian car 89. Begin

90. Advance 91. For all to see 93. Ill health or ail 95. Cry like a baby 96. Stopped in one’s tracks 97. Lagoon surrounder 98. French brandy 100. Computer info 104. Café alternative 105. Ardour 107. Big to-do 111. A.T.M. need 112. Forum wear 114. Not quite right 117. Dead against 118. Country with more than

6,000 islands 120. Arabic for “commander” 121. Arrangement 122. Increase, with “up” 123. Cognizant 124. Cost of living? 125. Bunk 126. “Encore!” 127. “Calm down” DOWN1. 2008 Olympic site 2. Madagascar primate 3. Boiling mad 4. Minor player 5. “Trick” joint 6. Concrete section 7. 1985 sci-fi movie 8. Not theirs 9. Head lock 10. Sis’s sib 11. Same old, same old 12. Type of battle 13. Squalid 14. “Try this!” 15. Frequently, in verse 16. Make last too long 17. Adequate 18. Couch 29. Computer offering 31. “All kidding ...” 34. Apportion 36. Land on Lake Victoria 37. Type of government

service 38. Soft diet 40. Court employee 42. Charge carrier 43. Victorian, for one 45. Remove impurities from

46. Battle of Hamburger Hill site

47. Wipeout? 48. 500 sheets 49. Miniature trees 52. Type of fi lled chair 53. Complete outfi t for a

new baby 54. Greek letter 56. “Spy vs. Spy” magazine 58. First 59. A formal association

of people with similar interests

60. Knight mare? 62. Varnish ingredient 63. Passionate 64. Instant

66. Absorbed, as a cost 70. Caught 75. Renounce 76. Lion’s lunch or maybe a

Chevy 77. Long, long time 81. Area of South Africa 83. Like composition paper 85. Big dipper 87. ’easter 88. Casbah headgear 89. Sweet liqueur 90. Delay 92. Betting group 93. “Is anything the ?” 94. Not out 95. Dried and fl aked fi sh

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96. A printed note placed below the text on a printed page

98. Tiny part 99. Great divide 101. Dismay 102. It may be fi t for a queen 103. Add on 106. Mascara site 108. “I’m you!”109. Snowman prop 110. Like some doors 113. “A jealous mistress”:

Emerson 115. Institute legal

proceedings against 116. Operative 119. Amazement

124 SEPTEMBER 2009 | UNITED.COM

THE FAR EAST

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HEM_0909_Crossword.indd 1HEM_0909_Crossword.indd 1 07/08/2009 12:1807/08/2009 12:18

ENGLISHPrior to arrival in the United States, foreign nationals (except Canadian citizens and U.S. permanent residents) who are not in possession of a visitors visa and are entitled to the Visa Waiver Program are required to complete the I-94W form. One form is required for each family member. Customers should complete all personal and travel-related information included on the front side of the card. Please ensure that you answer all questions and sign and date where indicated on the back side of this form. All customers must provide a U.S. address for entry.

Countries that are participants of the Visa Waiver Program are as follows: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, *Czech Republic, Denmark, *Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, *Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, *Latvia, Liechtenstein, *Lithuania,

Luxembourg, *Malta, Monaco, the Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, *Slovakia, Slovenia, *South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, the United Kingdom.*Nationals of these countries must present an electronic (e-ppt) passport to be eligible for the U.S. Visa Waiver Program.

Nationals of all Visa Waiver countries must present a machine-readable passport for the U.S. Visa Waiver Program.SPANISH / ESPAÑOLAntes de su llegada en los Estados Unidos, los ciudadanos extranjeros (excepto ciudadanos Canadienses y residentes permanentes de los Estados Unidos) que no tengan un visado de visita y se acojan al programa “Visa Waiver”, tienen que completar el formulario I-94W. Se requiere un formulario por cado miembro de familia. Los pasajeros deberán rellenar toda información tanto personal como relacionada con viajes en el anverso de la tarjeta. Por favor, asegúrese de contestar todas las preguntas , fi rmen y pongan la fecha en el lugar indicado en el formulario. Todos los pasajeros deben proporcionar una dirección en Estados Unidos para entrar al país.

Los países que participan del Programa de exención de visas son los siguientes: Alemania. Andorra, Australia, Austria, Bélgica, Brunei, *Corea del Sur, Dinamarca, *Eslovaquia, Eslovenia, Espána, *Estonia, Finlandia, Francia, *Hungría, Irlanda, Islandia, Italia, Japón, *Letonia, Liechtenstein, * Lituania, Luxemburgo, *Malta, Mónaco, Noruega, Nueva Zelandia, Países Bajos, Portugal,*República Checa, San Marino, Singapur, Suecia, Suiza y el Reino Unido.*Los ciudadanos de estos países deben presentar un electrónicos (e-ppt) pasaporte para ser elegible para del Programa de exención de visas de Estados Unidos.

Los ciudadanos de los demás países exentos de visas deben presentar un pasaporte de lectura electrónica en el marco del Programa de exención de visas de Estados Unidos a partir del 26 de octubre de 2004.1. Apellido2. Nombre3. Fecha de nacimiento (Día/Mes/Año)

4. Nacionalidad5. Sexo (varón/hembra)6. Número de Pasaporte 7. Línea Aérea y Número de vuelo8. País de residencia9. Ciudad de embarque 10. Domicilio en Estados Unidos (número y calle)11. Ciudad y Estado12. Apellido13. Nombre14. Fecha de nacimiento (Día/Mes/Año)15. Nacionalidad

SPANISH / ESPAÑOL ¿Le afecta alguna de estas restricciones a usted? (Conteste Si o No)A. ¿Padece usted de alguna enfermedad contagiosa, defi ciencia física o mental, o es adicto a las drogas?

Sí / No

B. ¿Ha sido usted arrestado o condenado por alguna infracción o delito de

depravación moral; o por una violación relacionada con estupefacientes; arrestado o condenado por dos o más infracciones cuya sentencia total de reclusión fuera igual o superior a cinco años; ha sido trafi cante de estupefacientes, o pretende entrar en los Estados Unidos para realizar actividades criminales o inmorales?

Sí / NoC. ¿Ha estado o está implicado en actos de espionaje o sabotaje, actividades terroristas o genocidios; o participó de algún modo entre 1933 y 1945 en persecuciones relacionadas con la Alemania nazi o sus aliados? Sí / NoD. ¿Tiene intención de trabajar en los Estados Unidos; ha sido excluido o deportado; o ha sido expulsado de los Estados Unidos, o ha obtenido o intentado obtener un visado o la entrada a los Estados Unidos por medios fraudulentos o dando

información falsa? Sí / NoE. ¿Ha detenido, retenido, o impedido

la custodia de un niño que corresponda legalmente a un ciudadano de los Estados Unidos? Sí / No

F. ¿Se le ha cancelado o denegado alguna vez el visado o la entrada en los Estados Unidos? En caso afi rmitavo, especifi que? Sí / No

¿Cúando? ¿Dónde?G. ¿Ha hecho valer alguna vez su inmunidad frente a un procesamiento? Sí / NoIMPORTANTE: Si ha contestado afi rmativamente alguna de las preguntas, comuníquese con la Embajada de los Estados Unidos ANTES de su viaje, ya que se le puede denegar la entrada en los Estados Unidos.RENUNCIA DE DERECHOS: Por la presente renuncio el derecho a solicitar la revisión del Ofi cial de Inmigración acerca de mi admisión en los Estados Unidos, o a apelarla, o a impugnar cualquier acto de deportación que no sea por razón de una solicitud de asilo.DECLARACIÓN: Declaro que he leído y entendido todas las preguntas y enunciados enumerados en esta solicitud, y que las respuestas que he propocionado en este formulario son verdaderas y correctas a mi mejor saber y entender.

Knee Flexion: Lift knee toward chest, decreasing the amount of joint space at back of the knee. Repeat with other leg.

Knee Extension: Straighten knee, increasing the amount of joint space at the back of the knee to its full range. Repeat with other leg.

Dorsifl exion: With heel on fl oor, point toes upward, decreasing the angle between the foot and front of the leg. Repeat with other foot.

Plantar Flexion: Lift the heel and keep toes pointed toward the fl oor, increasing the angle between the top of the foot and front of the leg. Repeat with other foot.

Eversion: With foot on fl oor, gently roll the sole of the foot inward. Repeat with other foot.

Inversion: With foot on fl oor, gently roll the sole of the foot outward. Repeat with other foot.

STAYING FIT: INFLIGHT FLEXIBILITY

I-94 NONIMMIGRANT VISA WAIVER / FRONT I-94 NONIMMIGRANT VISA WAIVER / BACK

123HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | SEPTEMBER 2009

HEM_0909_Customs&Immigration.indd 2HEM_0909_Customs&Immigration.indd 2 10/08/2009 09:5510/08/2009 09:55

CUSTOMS & IMMIGRATION

ENTRY REGULATIONS

CUSTOMS DECLARATION

ENGLISHAll passengers (or one per family) are required to complete the Customs Declaration forms prior to arrival in the U.S. The forms will be distributed infl ight and should include all personal data in English and in capital letters. Please ensure you sign your name.SPANISH/ESPAÑOLTodos los pasajeros (o uno por cada familia) tienen que llenar los formularios de Declaración de Aduanas antes de llegar a los EE.UU. Los formularios se distribuirán durante el veulo y deben incluir todos sus datos personales en inglés y con letras mayúsculas. No olvide fi rmar en el reverso del formulario. 1. Apellido, Nombre, Segundo

nombre2. Fecha de nacimiento

(Día/Mes/Año)3. Cuántos familiares viajan con usted4. (a) Dirección en los EE.UU.

(nombre del hotel/lugar)(b) Ciudad, (c) Estado

5. Pasaporte expedido en (páis)6. Número del pasaporte7. País de residencia8. Países que visitó durante este viaje

antes de su llegada a los EE.UU.9. Línea aérea/número de vuelo o nombre

del barco10. El propósito principal de este viaje es de

negocios: Sí / No11. Traigo (Traemos)

(a) frutas, plantas, alimentos, insectos: Sí / No

(b) carnes, animales, productos de animales o silvestres: Sí / No (c) agentes de enfermedades, cultivos

celulares, caracoles:Sí / No (d) tierra o he (hemos) estado en fi nca/

granja/pastizales: Sí / No12. He (Hemos) estado en cercanías de

ganado (tocando o manipulándolo): Sí / No

13. Llevo (Llevamos) divisas o instrumentos monetarios por valor superior a $10,000 o su equivalente en moneda extranjera (Véase la defi nición de instrumentos monetarios al dorso): Sí / No

14. Tengo (Tenemos) mercancías comerciales (artículos para la venta, muestras para solicitar pedidos o bienes que no constituyen efectos personales): Sí / No

15. Residentes—el valor total de todos los bienes, incluidas las mercancías comerciales que he (hemos) comprado en el extranjero, (incluyendo regalos para otras personas, pero sin incluir los artículos enviados por correo a los EE.UU.) y que estoy (estamos) introduciendo en los EE.UU. es de:$___Visitantes—el valor total de todos

ENGLISHPrior to arrival in the U.S., all foreign nationals (except Canadian citizens and U.S. permanent residents or nationals of countries entitled to the Visa Waiver Program—see I-94W on next page) are required to complete an I-94 form. One form is required for each family member. Customers should complete all personal and travel-related information included on the front side of the form. Please do not write on

the back side of the form. All information should be written in capital letters and in English. You are required to keep this form until your departure from the U.S.SPANISH / ESPAÑOLAntes de su llegada a los Estados Unidos, todos los ciudadanos extranjeros (excepto los ciudadanos de Canadá y los residentes permanentes en los Estados Unidos o ciudadanos de los países que tienen el Programa “Visa Waiver”—Ver formulario I-94W en hoja adjunta) tienen que llenar un formulario I-94. Hay que rellenar un formulario por cada miembro de la familia. Los pasajeros llenarán toda la información personal y relativa al viaje que se incluye en el anverso del formulario. Le rogamos que no escriba en el reverso del formulario. Toda la información debe estar escrita con letras mayúsculas y en inglés. Le rogamos que guarde este formulario hasta que salga de los Estados Unidos.1. Apellido2. Nombre3. Fecha de nacimiento

(Día/Mes/Año)4. País de ciudadanía5. Sexo (masculino o femenino)6. Número de pasaporte 7. Aerolínea y número de vuelo8. País donde reside9. Ciudad donde tomó el avión 10. Ciudad donde obtuvo el visado11. Fecha del visado (Diá/Mes/Año)12. Dirección durante su estancia en los

EE.UU. (Número, Calle)13. Ciudad y Estado14. Apellido15. Nombre16. Fecha de nacimiento

(Día/Mes/Año)17. País de ciudadania

ENGLISH

Effective January 12, 2009, all passengers who intend to travel to the United States without a U.S. Visa under the terms of the Visa Waiver Program must obtain an electronic preauthorization or ESTA in advance of travel. When planning international travel, please be sure that you are in possession of all required documents. Remember to allow ample time for acquiring offi cial travel documents. For complete information on the requirements, and to apply for ESTA, please visit www.cbp.gov/esta.

HAZARDOUS MATERIALSThe following items are considered hazard-ous materials. Do not pack in checked or carry-on luggage.FLAMMABLE LIQUIDS OR SOLIDSFuel, paints, solvents, lighter fl uid, matchesWEAPONS Loaded fi rearms, ammunition, gunpowder, Mace, tear gas, pepper sprayHOUSEHOLD ITEMS Drain cleaners and solventsCOMPRESSED GASES Spray can, butane fuel, oxygen bottlesFIREWORKS Firecrackers, sparklers or explosivesOTHER HAZARDOUS MATERIALSDry ice, gasoline-powered tools, camping equipment with fuel, wet cell batteries,

I-94 ARRIVAL / DEPARTURE RECORD

HAZARDOUS MATERIALS NOTICE & IMPORT RESTRICTIONS ELECTRONIC SYSTEM FOR TRAVEL AUTHORIZATION

oxidizers, corrosives, radioactive materials, poisons, infectious substancesNOTEThere are special exceptions for small quantities of up to 70 oz. (2 kg or 2 liters) of medicinal and toilet articles carried in your luggage. For further information, check with any airline representative. IMPORT RESTRICTIONSPlease note new controls on the import of meat, fi sh, plants and their products into the United Kingdom and European Union. Check the advisory notices displayed in the baggage hall for a detailed explanation of these restrictions. If you possess any of these items, please declare them to customs in the red channel to avoid legal consequences.

SPANISH / ESPAÑOL

A partir del 12 de enero de 2009, todos los pasajeros que quieran viajar a los EE.UU. (entre los terminos del programa de no tener que usar la Visa) tendran que obtener una preautorización electronica o ESTA antes de viajar. Cuando estés coordinando viajes internacionales, este seguro que tenga todos los documentos requerídos. No se olvide de dejar tiempo sufi ciente para adquirir los documentos ofi ciales de viaje. Para información completa sobre todos los requisitos, y para aplicar para ESTA, por favor visite www.cbp.gov/esta.

HEM_0909_Customs&Immigration.indd 1HEM_0909_Customs&Immigration.indd 1 06/08/2009 15:4806/08/2009 15:48

ENJOY A WORLD OF STAR ALLIANCE CONNECTIONS AND PRIVILEGES. With more than 17,000 daily fl ights, United and the other 23 Star Alliance carriers can take you to 916 destinations in 160 countries around the world. The qualifying fl ights you take on Star Alliance carriers count toward your elite status in Mileage Plus.

Air Canada

Air China

Air New Zealand

ANA

Asiana AIrlines

Austrian

bmi

EgyptAir

LOT Polish Air

Lufthansa

Scandinavian Airlines

Shanghai Airways

Singapore Airlines

South African Airways

Spanair

Swiss International Air Lines

TAP Portugal

THAI

Turkish Airlines

United

US Airways

Adria Airways (regional member)

Blue 1 (regional member)

Croatia Airlines (regional member)

Mileage Plus Members can earn miles and redeem award travel on all Star Alliance partners.

AFRICA ASIA PACIFIC

CANADA CARIBBEAN EUROPE LATIN AMERICA

MEXICO MIDDLEEAST

UNITED STATESSTAR ALLIANCE PARTNERS

Frequent flier benefits not offered on all flights. Contact United Reservations for details.

Aer Lingus

Air Dolomiti

Continental Connection

Emirates

Great Lakes

Hawaiian Airlines

Island Air

Jet Airways

Qatar Airways

TACA Group

TAM

Virgin Blue

AFRICA ASIA PACIFIC

CANADA EUROPE MEXICO MIDDLEEAST

UNITED STATES

EARN REDEEM

Operated by Gulfstream

REGIONAL ALLIANCES CARIBBEAN LATIN AMERICA

FREQUENT FLIER BENEFITS


HEM_0909_TerminalDiagrams.indd 6HEM_0909_TerminalDiagrams.indd 6 06/08/2009 16:0906/08/2009 16:09

TERMINAL DIAGRAMSUS AIRWAYS HUBS

CONCOURSE D

GatesD17-D26

GatesD1-D14

GatesD31-D43

CONCOURSE A

CONCOURSE B

GatesB19-B25

GatesB9-B17

GatesA10-A15

GatesA17-A23

B6B2B1

A3 A5 A8 A7GatesD50-D58

LAS VEGAS / MCCARRAN INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

United Gate Area United Check-in US Airways Gate Area US Airways Check-in US Airways Club Special Services Counter

PHOENIX SKY HARBOR INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

United Gate Area United Check-in United Red Carpet Club US Airways Gate Area US Airways Club and Business Center Special Services Counters

★ United EasyCheck-in

EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.

Gates 1-9Gates 10-19

Gates 20-26

2Food CourtCONCOURSE E

CONCOURSE C CONCOURSE B

CONCOURSE ACONCOURSE D

Gates 2-19 Gates 1-16

Gates 1-13

4★

CHARLOTTE DOUGLAS INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

United Gate Area United Check-in US Airways Gate Area US Airways Express Gate Area US Airways Check-in US Airways Club US Airways Club and Business Center Special Services Counter



13

57 91113

CONCOURSE F

CONCOURSE E

CONCOURSE D

CONCOURSE CCONCOURSE BCONCOURSE A EAST

Transatlantic Gates

(All Carriers)

17 16 15 14

CONCOURSE A WEST

1

Continuous Shuttle Bus Pickup and Drop-off Between Gates F10 and C16

Gates 18-26Gates 1-16

Gates 16-31

Gates 1-23

Gates 24-39

★

PHILADELPHIA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

United Gate Area United Check-in United Red Carpet Club US Airways Gate Area US Airways Express Gate Area US Airways Check-in US Airways International Check-in US Airways Club Special Services Counters US Airways Express Check-in US Airways Club and Envoy Lounge



TERMINAL 2

1357

★Gates

INTERNATIONALCONCOURSE B

TERMINAL 4

CONCOURSE BCONCOURSE A

GatesA17-A30

GatesA1-A14

GatesB1-B14

GatesB15-B28

CLT

LAS

PHL

PHX

MAKING YOUR CONNECTING FLIGHT. Whether your next fl ight is on United or one of the Star Alliance partners around the world, use the terminal diagrams on pages 116–120 to plan your connection. In addition to gate locations, these maps show ticket counters, United Red Carpet Clubs and interterminal transportation.

To transfer between terminals, catch the interterminal bus curbside.


SATELLITE 3

SATELLITE 4

Gates 31-47

SATELLITE

South Wing

Gates 51-58

Gates 21-25

Gates 11-TERMINAL 1

SATELLITE 2

SATELLITE 1

North Wing

Pedestrian Transfer Tunnel

4746

45

4443 42 41

38

52 51

55

56

57

58

37 35 33 31

32

B300-B303

B332-B340

PIER C

PIER BPIER A

, LEVEL 2

(Gate

s A1-A

42)

PIER A, L

EVEL 3 (G

ates A

51-A65)

Pedestrian Transfer Tunnel

B10

C6

C5

C4

B11-B16

B20

B22

B23

B30-B35

B42

B1, B2

B3-B9

B41

B43

B44

B45

B46B47

B48B28

B27B26

B25

B24

C1-C3

C7-C9

Escalator

TERMINAL 1

C8

➔Train to Terminal 2

FRANKFURT INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

United Gate Area United Check-in United Arrivals Suite United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge Lufthansa Check-in Lufthansa Senator Club Lufthansa Business Class Lounge Air Canada Check-in Train Station US Airways Gates US Airways Check-in

Medical Center

TOKYO / NARITA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

United Gate Area United and Star Alliance Premier Check-in United and Star Alliance Check-in Air New Zealand (Terminal 2) United Red Carpet Club (Third Floor) United First International Lounge (Fourth Floor)

Medical Center ANA Lounge

TERMINAL 3

TERMINAL 1

1618

1719

2123

2527

2826

31

29

27

11

23

13

20

22

21

19

17

16

18

BUS TRANSFERTo/From Terminals 3, 4 & 5

BUS TRANSFERTo/From Terminals 1, 2, 3 & 5

29

TERMINAL 4

3941

43

4850

5254

4636

930

32343638

4042

351

35

74

90 88 86 84 82 80 78 76

56

1357TERMINAL 2

(Closing Early 2009)

TERM

INA

L 5

24

9

12

14

1113

15

24

68

10

35

79

404238

37

25

7

11

6

8

LONDON / HEATHROW INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

United Gate Area United Check-in United Premier Check-in Arrivals Lounge Lufthansa Check-in SAS Check-in bmi Check-in Star Alliance Departure Lounge Flight Connections

LHR

FRA

NRT



6 7

Parking Garage

Roadway

8

9

10

11

CENTRAL CONCOURSE

DIAMONDHEAD

EWA CONCOURSE

INTERISLANDTERMINAL

DIAMOND HEAD CONCOURSEGATES 6-11

GATES 14-23

GATES 26-34

GATES 12-13 GATES 24-25

GATES 55-66

GATES 49-54

★

SAN FRANCISCO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

United Arrivals and Departures (Domestic) United Premier Check-in United Domestic Check-in United International Check-in & Departure Gates United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge United Arrivals Suite (lower level) Singapore Check-in Lufthansa Check-in Air China Check-in US Airways Gate Area US Airways Check-in Asiana Airlines Air New Zealand Air Canada Gate Area Air Canada Check-in


HONOLULU INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

United Gate Area United Check-in United Red Carpet Club (Third Level) Air New Zealand (Courtyard, Lower Level) ANA (Courtyard, Lower Level) Air Canada Gate Area US Airways Check-in Pedestrian Corridor Inter-Terminal Shuttle Bus Stop

Medical Center (Courtyard, Lower Level)


CONCOURSE A

CONCOURSE B

CONCOURSE C

Terminal EastTerminal West

15 19 2317 21 25 2927 3331 3735

16 20 2418 22 26 28 3230 3634

39

6159

575553514947454341

29

38 60585654525048464440

41

42

43

★★ ★

★

8381 8785 9189

57

★

63 716967 73 7577

79

8280 8684 9088 929495

93

33 35

2830

DENVER INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

United Gate Area United Premier Check-in United Check-in International Arrival Processing Air Canada Gate Area Air Canada Check-in US Airways Gate Area US Airways Check-in Lufthansa Check-in Lufthansa Gate Area Underground Train

Medical Center (level six)★ United EasyCheck-in


International Terminal Secure Connector

HNL

SFO

DEN

TERMINAL DIAGRAMS


68697071

7

7374

75

CONCOURSE F

80

81

82

83

84

85

86

87

88

90

89 87A

TERMINAL 3

CONCOURSE B

CONCOURSE G (Gates G91-G102)

B26B27B28

B29B30

72

CONCOURSE A

TERMINAL 1

(Gates 1-12)

7978B78A

77B77A

76A76B

61

Medical Center ★ United EasyCheck-in℞ Harmony Pharmacy & Health Center is in the Terminal 3, Concourse F hub

DOMESTIC & OVERSEAS


66

68B

TERMINAL 3

TOM BRADLEYINTERNATIONAL

TERMINAL

TERMINAL 2

TERMINAL 1

TERMINAL 4 TERMINAL 5 TERMINAL 6 TERMINAL 7 TERMINAL 8

Roadway

70A

70B

72

75B

75A

73

71B

71A 80

74

767769B

8182838485868788

MezzanineLevel

12

8

4BUS Airways Ticket Counter

(Upper Level)US Airways Club

HH H

TRAVEL ASSISTANCE FOR DELAYED OR CANCELED FLIGHTS

At United, our priority is safety and keeping an on-time schedule. Sometimes weather or other operational challenges make it necessary to delay or cancel a fl ight. The following information will help you understand what happens and what to do during these events:

Flight canceled? Missed a connection? We will confi rm you on the next United fl ight with available seats. EasyCheck-in® units located in the concourse will provide you with new fl ight information and a boarding pass – and help you standby for an earlier United fl ight if one is scheduled. If you standby and are not boarded, we will transfer your name to the next United fl ight until you are on board.What about my bag? Baggage is boarded on the next fl ight if space is available. In some cases, your bags may arrive at your destination before you. United will secure the bag at your destination until you arrive and claim it. See a baggage claim representative upon arrival for assistance.

WASHINGTON / DULLES INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

United Gate Area United Premier Check-in United Check-in International Arrivals Suite (except from Canada) United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge Lufthansa Gate Area Lufthansa Check-in Air Canada Gate Area Air Canada Check-in ANA Check-in ANA Fuji Lounge/Gate Area Austrian Airlines Check-in Austrian Airlines Gate Area SAS Gate Area BWIA Gate


South African Airways US Airways Gates

★ United Easy Check-in US Airways Check-in

LOS ANGELES INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

United Gate Area United Premier Check-in United Check-in United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge Lufthansa Check-in Thai Airways Check-in Air Canada Check-in Air New Zealand Check-in ANA Check-in Inter-Terminal Shuttle Bus Stop (Arrival Level) Singapore Check-in US Airways Club US Airways Check-in US Airways Gates Asiana Check-in

★ United Easy Check-in


What if I have to stay overnight? United will provide you with a hotel and meal voucher if your trip is delayed overnight due to a mechanical issue or another reason within our control. For uncontrollable events – such as weather – we may be able to help you fi nd a local hotel at a discounted rate. If we can not retrieve your checked bag, overnight kits containing toiletries are available. Please see a baggage claim agent to request one.Help us keep you informed. Sign up for EasyUpdate®, our complimentary messaging service, and receive automatic updates regarding any fl ight changes. Enroll online at united.com/easyupdate.If you decide not to travel as a result of a canceled or delayed fl ight, you may be able to use your ticket for a future trip or get a refund. Call us at 1-800 UNITED-1 for details and to cancel your itinerary.

Your safety and satisfaction are important. We appreciate your busi-ness and apologize for any inconvenience you may have experienced.

IAD

LAX



Roadway

HOTEL

BUS/SHUTTLECENTER

To Remote Parking

CONCOURSE L

CONCOURSE K

CONCOURSE H

CONCOURSE G

CONCOURSE F CONCOURSE E

Parking Garage

LOT A

Roadway

F3

F1 E1B2

B3 B4B5

B6B7

B8

C9C7

C5C3C1 C4

C6C8

C2

B9B10

B11

C11

C10

C15C17

C12C16

C18

C20C22

C24C26

C28C30C32

C31

C19

C21

C23C25

C27C29

C18A

B12B14

B15B16B17

B18

E1A

E2AE2

E3

CONCOURSE B

CONCOURSE C

CONCOURSE M

TERM

INAL

TH

REE

TERMINALTWO

➡

F4F5

F11

F2

F7F9

F14F12

F10F8

B19B20

B21B22

InternationalTerminal Five

TERMINAL ONE

B1

F6

E10★★

★

★

★

★★

Reservationsunited.com800-UNITED-1 (800-864-8331)

Automated Flight Information800-UNITED-1 (800-864-8331)

Mileage Plus24-Hour Account Information & Award Travelunited.com/mileageplus800-UNITED-1 (800-864-8331)

Mileage Plus Visa Customer Serviceunited.com/chase800-537-7783

Baggage Servicesunited.com/baggage800-UNITED-1 (800-864-8331)

Refundsunited.com/refunds800-UNITED-1 (800-864-8331)

CHICAGO / O’HARE INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

United Gate Area United Premier Check-in United Check-in United First International Lounge United Arrivals Suite International Arrivals Suite (except from Canada) United Red Carpet Club Lufthansa Check-in SAS Check-in Air Canada Gate Area Air Canada Check-in ANA Check-in bmi Check-in US Airways Gate Area US Airways Check-in Asiana Check-in Underground Corridors, Moving Sidewalks Elevated Airport Transit Systems (ATS)

★ United Easy Check-in Medical Center

★ Airport Play Area—Kids on the Fly


Hotel Courtesy Shuttle, Pace Bus, Regional Buses, Off-Site Rent-a-Car, Off-Site Parking Shuttle. Follow the overhead signs in Baggage Claim.

HOTEL

CONTACT AND TERMINAL INFORMATION


CONTACT INFORMATION

Customer Relationsunited.com/customerrelationsEmail: [email protected] (800-864-8331)

Red Carpet Club™united.com/redcarpetclub866-UA-CLUBS (toll-free)520-881-0500 (outside the U.S.)

Hearing Impaired (TDD)800-323-0170

Language Assistance (Asian)800-426-5560

Reservaciones en Español800-426-5561

United Cargounitedcargo.com800-UA-CARGO (800-822-2746)

United Servicesunitedsvcs.com

Meetings Plus800-MEET-UAL (800-633-8825)

Duty Free World6095 NW 167th St. Suite D-4Miami, FL 33015 USA800-668-6182

United Vacationsunitedvacations.com800-32-TOURS (800-328-6877)

Charter an Airplaneunited.com/charter

Small Package Same Day Shipping Small Package Dispatch (SPD)—Airport-to-airport service:800-722-5243

Employment Opportunitiesunited.com/jobs888-UAL-JOBS (888-825-5627)

EasyCheck-in kiosks are located on the concourse to assist customers who have experienced a misconnection or canceled fl ight. Customers who have e-tickets and are traveling domestically may use the kiosk to:

1. Rebook on another fl ight 2. Obtain a boarding pass 3. Standby for the next fl ight to their destination

ORD


Philadelphia

Miami

Aruba

New York

Boston

Frankfurt

BelizeCity

Washington, DC

Rio de Janeiro

Copenhagen

Chicago

Newark

Addis Ababa

Paris

Chennai (Madras)

Tel Aviv

Kuwait

Lagos

Johannesburg

Munich

Houston

Accra

Bangalore

Mumbai

Rome

Delhi

Amman

Alma-Ata

Amsterdam

Cape Town

Madrid

Stockholm

London

Dubai

Abu Dhabi Muscat

Vienna

Atlanta

er

Dallas

Detroit

WarsawShannon

Buenos Aires

Guatemala CitySan Salvador

Brussels

Cairo

Asmara

Bahrain

Dakar

Lisbon

Durban

East London

Porto

Hyderabad

Orlando

Tbilisi

Port Elizabeth

LimaCuzco

TegucigalpaSan Pedro Sula

ManaguaCochin

Colombo

Islamabad

Lahore

Peshawar

TrivandrumLiberia

Doha

Abuja

Karachi

Geneva

Brasilia

Curitiba

FortalezaManaus

Porto Alegre

Salvador

Belo Horizonte

Iguassu Falls

Recife

DublinMoscow

Charlotte

Malabo

JeddahRiyadh

Sal

Istanbul

115

Budapest

Lisbon

��

Porto

��

��

��

��

��

��

��

��

��

��

��

��

��

��

��

��

��

��

��

��

��

��

��

��

��

��

��

��

��

��

Turin

Lyon Geneva

Paris

London

Oslo

Copenhagen

Hamburg

Brussels

Hannover

FrankfurtNuremberg

MilanVenice

Pisa

RomeNaples

Trieste

Istanbul

Bucharest

Kiev

ViennaMunich

Prague

Warsaw

Helsinki

Luga

��

Berlin

��

Bremen

��

��

��

GrazInnsbruck Klagenfurt

LinzSalzburg

SofiaSarajevo

Cologne

Dresden

Verona

Vilnius

Katowice

Marseille Nice

Stuttgart

Riga

Stavanger

Ancona

Dublin

BolognaFlorenceGenoa

Stockholm

Amsterdam

Basel

Aberdeen

Edinburgh

Belfast

Birmingham

��

Bergen

Ankara

Glasgow

Manchester

Skopje

Belgrade

��

ShannonCork

AdanAntalya

Izmir

Leipzig


HEM_0909_RouteMaps.indd 4HEM_0909_RouteMaps.indd 4 10/08/2009 09:5310/08/2009 09:53

SydneyAdelaide

Brisbane

Cairns

Gold CoastPerth

P

Shanghai

BeijingSan Francisco

Shenyang

Fuzhou

Shenzhen

Guangzhou

ChongqingChengdu

Los Angeles

Queenstown

Wellington

C

Seattle

Rarotonga Cook

Portland

OsakaTokyoSendai

NagoyaHiroshima

Okinawa

Seoul

Sapporo

Fukuoka

Hong Kong

Delhi

Ho Chi MinhCity (Saigon)

AucklandMelbourne

Christchurch

Nadi

Dunedin

Apia

Honolulu

Pusan

Bangkok

Hanoi

Denver

Dallas

Singapore

GuatemalaSan Sal

Taipei

Kota KinabaluPhuket

KomatsuBaotou

Hangzhou

Harbin

Nanjing

Qingdao

Wuhan

Xiamen

Mana

Kuala Lumpur

Kolkata

Canberra

Dalian

Saipan

ROUTE MAPSINTERNATIONAL CITIES

United RouteCode Share route serviced by a United PartnerCode Share route serviced by a United Partner

• Cities served by United, United Express and Code Share partners

Time zone boundry

Route lines do not refl ect actual fl ight path


Miami

Orlando

West Palm Beach

Charleston

Greenville/Spartanburg

Savannah

Baltimore

Birmingham

Louisville

Memphis

Milwaukee

Philadelphia

St. Louis

Tampa/St. Petersburg

Charlotte

Cleveland

Detroit

Jacksonville

y

NewOrleans

New York (La Guardia) (J.F. Kennedy)

Norfolk/Virginia Beach

TorontoAlbany

Atlanta

Boston

Columbia

Columbus

NashvilleRaleigh/Durham

Richmond

WASHINGTON, DC (DULLES)

Hartford/Springfield

Cincinnati

Portland

Providence

Newark

Greensboro/High Point/Winston-Salem

Lexington

GrandRapids

Ft. Lauderdale/Hollywood

Syracuse

Buffalo/Niagara

Falls

Knoxville

Manchester

Ft. Myers

Indianapolis

Minneapolis

Dayton

Allentown

Harrisburg

Madison

Pittsburgh

Appleton/Fox Cities

Burlington

CedarRapids/Iowa City

Wausau

Desoines

Ft.Wayne

Green Bay

WhitePlains

Lansing

Midland/Saginaw

Moline

Rochester

SouthBend/Elkhart/Mishawaka

pringfield

Charleston

Traverse City

Akron/Canton StateCollege

Key West

Wilkes Barre/Scranton

Charlottesville

Roanoke

Springfield(Reagan National)

San Juan

Peoria

Asheville

Augusta

Elmira/Corning

Erie

Halifax

Ottawa

Pensacola Tallahassee

Sarasota/Bradenton

Myrtle Beach

Fayetteville/Ft. Bragg

Gainesville

Hilton Head Island

Huntsville/Decatur

Ithaca/Corning

Jacksonville

Long Island/Islip

Lynchburg

New Bern

Tri-Cities Regional

Wilmington

Binghamton

0 100 200 300 400 Miles

0 100 200 300 400 500 600 Kilometers

Newport News/Williamsburg

Greenvilleorthwestrkansas

LittleRock

Antigua

Punta Cana St. Kitts

Providenciales

St. Lucia

Cozumel Santo Domingo

St. ThomasSt. Maarten

Montego Bay

AltoonaJohnstown

Beckley

ShenandoahValley

ClarksburgMorgantown

Parkersburg

Burlington

Waynesville

Nassau

Freeport

Grand Cayman

Hamilton



Portland

Vancouver

Seattle

Boise

San Jose

Las Vegas

LOS ANGELES

San Diego

SAN FRANCISCO Oakland

DENVER

Sacramento

Salt Lake City

Tucson

Phoenix/ScottsdaleAlbuquerque

Colorado Springs

HoustonSan Antonio

Dallas/FortWorth

Kansas City

Omaha

Austin

Oklahoma City

Bozeman

Orange County

Tulsa

El Paso

Honolulu

Ontario

Kahului

Minneapolis

C

DesMoines

Springfield

Pierre

Spokane

Wichita

Lincoln

Missoula

Rapid City

Reno/Tahoe

Edmonton

Calgary

Winnipeg

Jackson Hole

Kona

0 50 100 150 Miles

0 50 100 150 200 Kilometers

Burbank

Gunnison/CrestedButte

Hayden/SteamboatSprings

Montrose

Vail/Eagle

Alliance

Chadron

Alamosa

Scottsbluff

Cortez

Cheyenne

Worland

LiberalDodge City

FargoDickinson

Kearney

Farmington

Gillette

Garden City

Hays

Laramie

North Platte

Pueblo

Riverton

Rock Springs

Sheridan

Williston

Page/Lake Powell

Crescent City

Eureka

Aspen

Bakersfield

Chico

Carlsbad

Cody/Yellowstone

Casper

Durango

Eugene

Fresno

SiouxFalls

GrandJunction

Medford

Pasco

Palm Springs

Santa Barbara

Imperial

Inyokern

Monterey

Oxnard

San Luis Obispo

Santa Maria

Yuma

Modesto

Redmond

Redding

Bismarck

NorthwestArkansas

Great Falls

Idaho Falls

KalispellAnchorage

Puerto Vallarta

Los Cabos

Huron

Show Low

Mexico City

Billings

SalinaManhattan

Victoria

Helena

KlamathFalls

North Bend

Kapalua

Great Bend

McCook

Hilo

Burling

Vernal

Moab

Saskatoon

SidneyLewistown

Miles City

Wolf Point

Glasgow

Prescott

Visalia

Merced

MosesLake

Regina

ROUTE MAPSNORTH AMERICAN CITIES

United RouteUnited Express RouteCode Share route serviced by a United Partner

• Cities served by United, United Express and Code Share partners Cities served by Star Alliance members

Time zone boundryUNITED HUB

Route lines do not refl ect actual fl ight path


TOP 20 HITS Top 20 on 20 is the world’s fi rst fully interactive hit music experience, playing just the songs you vote for. Cast your vote anytime at 20on20.xmradio.com; then plug in and hear what’s hot. WHO YOU’LL HEAR Black Eyed Peas, Fall Out Boy, Lady Gaga, Katy Perry, Kanye West

ADULT CONTEMPORARY HITS The Blend is the musical soundtrack of your life—a great mix of Lite pop hits from the ’70s through today; never any rap or rock. WHO YOU’LL HEAR Rod Stewart, Billy Joel, Madonna, Eric Clapton, John Mellencamp

’60S HITS The times they were a-changin’, and so was the music. ’60s on 6 revisits surfi n’ tunes, “girl groups,” the British invasion, Woodstock. Featuring legendary DJ Cousin Brucie. WHO YOU’LL HEAR The Beatles, Beach Boys, Bob Dylan

XM RADIO AND UNITED offer a sampling of XM’s exclusive music channels for your infl ight enjoyment. Find your aircraft model on the grid below and review the selections on the channel listing. Everything worth listening to is now on XM.

111

of


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AUDIOPROGRAMMING

CHANNELS & ARTISTS

MODERN ADULT HITS It’s the ’90s and now! Hear today’s pop hits from artists like Matchbox 20, Alanis Morissette, Maroon 5, Kelly Clarkson and the Dave Matthews Band. Feel the Pulse of adult pop! WHO YOU’LL HEARDaughtry, No Doubt, Colbie Caillat, Plain White T’s

’70S HITS ’70s on 7 takes you back to the days of bell bottoms and pet rocks, when the music was wider than ever—from singer-songwriters and classic rock to R&B and disco. WHO YOU’LL HEAR Elton John, Donna Summer, The Eagles, Chicago, Fleetwood Mac

NEW COUNTRY HITS The Highway plays the very latest New Coun-try, along with the biggest hits of the past few years. WHO YOU’LL HEARKenny Chesney, Taylor Swift, Carrie Underwood, Keith Urban, Rascal Flatts, Sugarland, Tim McGraw

CLASSICAL POPS Listen to clas-sical music’s greatest hits and famous movie music, performed by renowned orchestras and soloists, on SIRIUS XM Pops. WHO YOU’LL HEAR Boston Pops, Cincinnati Pops, Andrea Bocelli, James Galway, Joshua Bell, John Philip Sousa

’80S HITS “Totally awesome” ’80s on 8 sounds like one of the great Top 40 stations of the time, with rock, rhythm and pop—plus hair bands and the original MTV VJs. WHO YOU’LL HEAR Michael Jackson, Duran Duran, Cyndi Lauper, Prince, George Michael

BLUES From the Delta, Chicago, New Orleans and more, B.B. King’s Bluesville covers more than 80 years of authentic blues. WHO YOU’LL HEAR B.B. King, Buddy Guy, Etta James, Muddy Waters

NEW AGE Spa is a place of peace in a sometimes crazy world. It’s a beautiful place where you are soothed by dreamy, fl owing music. WHO YOU’LL HEAREnya, Brian Eno, Tangerine Dream, Kevin Braheny, Mark Isham, Suzanne Ciani

CLASSIC ROCK Hold your lighters in the air. It’s all classic rock of the ’60s and ’70s, when music came on LPs. Drop the needle on Classic Vinyl.WHO YOU’LL HEARCreedence Clearwater Revival, The Beatles, Pink Floyd, Lynyrd Skynyrd, Bad Company, Rolling Stones

ADULT ALBUM ROCK New music and classic tracks from artists who’ve stood the test of time, plus quality rock from credible new artists.WHO YOU’LL HEAR U2, Dave Matthews Band, Neil Young, Coldplay

NEW ALTERNATIVE The latest alternative rock, best of the ’90s and the next big thing before it becomes so big you can’t stand it. WHO YOU’LL HEAR Weezer, The Raconteurs, The Bravery, Foo Fighters, Death Cab for Cutie, Jimmy Eat World

CHILDREN’S PROGRAMMING Kids Place Live features award-winning original content blended with a music mix of the most popular kids’ movie and TV soundtracks, plus Children’s Programming’s recording artists. WHO YOU’LL HEAR The Wiggles, Tom Chapin, Dan Zanes, They Might Be Giants

SIRIUS XM’s Exclusive Music Channel presents interviews and performances from original series “Artist Confi den-tial.” Wynonna comes to SIRIUS XM Studios to sing her biggest hits and songs from her latest CD, Sing, Chapter 1. Grammy-nominated rockers Fall Out Boy talk about their new album Folie à Deux and perform live. For more on SIRIUS XM’s “Artist Confi dential,” go to sirius.com or xmradio.com.

SMOOTH JAZZ Watercolors plays the best contemporary jazz instrumentals, classic and new, blended with just the right vocals. It’s contemporary crossover that’s always cool. WHO YOU’LL HEAR Dave Koz, Diana Krall, George Benson, Sade, George Duke

CLASSIC SOUL Soul Town is a celebration of the Motown, Stax and Atlantic record labels—vintage soul and classic R&B from the 1960s and ’70s. WHO YOU’LL HEAR James Brown, The Four Tops, Aretha Franklin, The Supremes

Forgot your headphones? Buy them on board. Starting this fall, a limited number of headsets will be available for purchase in United Economy® on domestic fl ights.


AUDIOPROGRAMMING

XM RADIO AND UNITED offer a sampling of XM’s exclusive music channels for your infl ight enjoyment. Find your aircraft model on the grid below and review the selections on the channel listing. Everything worth listening to is now on XM.

CH.

*Live communication between the fl ight deck and FAA air-traffi c control is offered. As you listen, your fl ight will be identifi ed by its fl ight number. This feature is unique to United and may not be available on all fl ights. Available at your captain’s discretion.

SIRIUS XM’s Exclusive Music Channel presents Wynonna. Her musical journey has taken her to the world’s biggest stages, fi rst as one half of the award-winning duo The Judds, then as a chart-topping solo artist. She brings her powerful voice into the SIRIUS XM Studios to sing her biggest hits and songs from her latest CD Sing: Chapter 1.


777 A319 & A320 SELECT A320 747 757 & 767 737

1

2

3

4

5

6

8

7

9

10

11

12

13

14

15

16

17

18

19

’60s Hits

MOVIEDubbed

MOVIEDubbed

MOVIEEnglish

’70s Hits

From the Flight Deck

Modern Adult Hits

Children’s Programming

Adult Contemporary HitsAdult Contemporary Hits

Adult Contemporary Hits

Top 20 Hits

MOVIEEnglish

MOVIEDubbed

MOVIEDubbed

’60s Hits

’70s Hits

Modern Adult Hits



Classical Pops

From the Flight Deck Smooth Jazz

Top 20 Hits

Unavailable

’60s Hits

From the Flight Deck Smooth Jazz

’70s Hits

Modern Adult Hits



Classical Pops

MOVIEEnglish

Top 20 Hits


New Age New Age

Classic Rock Classic Rock

’60s Hits

New Alternative

’70s Hits ’70s Hits ’70s Hits

Modern Adult Hits


’60s Hits

MOVIEEnglish

Top 20 Hits

Modern Adult Hits


Modern Adult Hits


Classical PopsClassical Pops


’60s Hits

MOVIEEnglish

Unavailable

Unavailable

Unavailable

Top 20 Hits

Top 20 Hits

Blues

Classical Pops

Classical Pops


’80s Hits ’80s Hits ’80s Hits

New Country Hits New Country Hits New Country Hits New Country Hits

Adult Album Rock Adult Album Rock

Smooth Jazz Smooth Jazz Smooth Jazz Smooth Jazz

Classic Soul

Original XM Programs


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FILM& TELEVISION

THIS AMERICAN LIFE [T]

“John Smith”

The universal experiences of growing up are exempli-fi ed by people all across America named John Smith. This season fi nale is nominated for four Emmy Awards this year.

CITIES OF THE UNDERWORLD“Maya Underground”

Hundreds of ruins reveal clues to bloody Mayan rituals, advanced architecture and a belief in an unforgiving underworld of Mayan gods.

TOP CHEF“Melting Pot”

Seventeen new chefs demonstrate their skills in challenges that send them into the ethnic districts of New York City.Top Chef is nominated for fi ve Emmy Awards this year.

TIME WARP“Paintball”The guys examine dangerous fl ying glass from storm-blown windows. Then, Time Warp cameras take on paintballs, fancy bartending and professional yo-yos.

TELEVISION DESCRIPTIONSThe views contained in the video content are not necessarily those of United.

THE OFFICE“Prince Family Paper”Michael’s conscience gets the best of him after he and Dwight go undercover to scout a family-run competitor. Everyone else spends the day debating whether Hilary Swank is hot. Eastbound passengers can catch the action the second half of the month. The Offi ce has received nine nominations for this year’s Emmy Awards.

HOUSE [T]

“Dying Changes Everything”

House’s preoccupation with Wilson leaves his team without direction and endangers the patient, a female whose exhaustive work schedule and demanding boss may have caused her condition. House is nominated for three Emmy Awards this year.

year s Emmy Awards.

30 ROCK

In “The Funcooker,” Jack needs a name for GE’s new pocket microwave, Liz tries to get out of jury duty, Jenna takes pills to help her stay awake, and Tracy tries to get fined by the FCC. 30 Rock has received 22 nominations for this year’s Emmy Awards—more than any other show.

HEM_0909_Film-TV.indd 5HEM_0909_Film-TV.indd 5 06/08/2009 16:0206/08/2009 16:02

THE GREAT BUCK HOWARDThe Great Buck Howard is a mentalist: He can read minds and hypnotize a room full of people. In his heyday, he had a marquis act in Vegas. Still, when Troy Gable tries to explain to his dad why he dropped out of law school to work for a mentalist, it doesn’t go over well. It’s obvious that Buck’s act has lost its luster. But Buck is convinced his comeback is around the corner. And Troy sticks around to fi nd out. FEATURING John Malkovich, Tom Hanks, Colin HanksDIRECTED BY Sean McGinlySummit Entertainment

GHOSTS OF GIRLFRIENDS PAST [S] [T]

Photographer Connor Mead loves freedom, fun and women—in that order. His mockery of romance is a buzz-kill for his brother, Paul, on the eve of Paul’s wedding. Just when it looks like Connor may ruin the wedding, he is visited by the ghosts of his former jilted girlfriends, who take him on an odyssey through his failed relationships.FEATURING Matthew McConaughey, Jennifer Garner, Breckin Meyer DIRECTED BY Mark WatersNew Line Cinema

1 hr. 40 min.

THE SOLOIST [T]

Journalist Steve Lopez discovers a vagrant who can play the violin. He learns his name is Nathaniel Anthony Ayers, a former classical music prodigy with schizophrenia. Lopez brings Ayers to a shelter where he can practice and turns Ayers into a local celebrity. FEATURING Jamie Foxx, Robert Downey Jr.DIRECTED BY Joe WrightParamount Pictures

1 hr. 54 min.

STAR TREK [V] [S]

The story chronicles the early days of James T. Kirk and his fellow USS Enterprise crewmembers at Star Fleet Academy, with adventures stretching from earth to Vulcan. Baby Spock is logical and Scotty complains about the ship’s overworked engines. Kirk and Spock are brought center stage as the fi lm tracks how they became offi cers aboard the Enterprise.FEATURING Chris Pine, Zachary Quinto, Zoe SaldanaDIRECTED BY J.J. Abrams Paramount Pictures

2 hr.7 min.

IF YOUR AIRCRAFT IS EQUIPPED with in-seat video, refer to the separate Play guide located in your seat pocket.

(S) Spanish(G) German(C) Chinese(J) Japanese

[V] Violence[S] Sexual Situations[T] Adult Themes

DRAGONBALL EVOLUTIONA live-action adaptation of the hugely popular manga, Dragonball centers on a humanoid alien named Goku who is trying to fulfi ll the wish of his dying grandfather: He must collect all seven mystical Dragon Balls in the world—which are said to grant the holder one perfect wish—to keep them out of evil hands. FEATURING Justin Chatwin, Yun-Fat Chow, Emmy RossumDIRECTED BY James Wong20th Century Fox

1 hr. 25 min.

17 AGAIN

In the class of 1989, Mike O’Donnell is a star on his high school basketball team with a college scout watching him play and a bright future ahead. He decides instead to share his life with girlfriend Scarlett and the baby they are expecting. Almost 20 years later, Mike is given another chance when he is transformed back to the age of 17.FEATURING Zac Efron, Leslie Mann, Matthew PerryDIRECTED BY Burr SteersNew Line Cinema

1 hr. 42 min.

1 hr. 30 min.

CUSTOMERS ARE WELCOME TO VIEW their own video entertainment aboard a United aircraft as long as they are able to show the programming has an MPAA rating of “R” or less.

MOST FILMS HAVE BEEN EDITED FOR AIRLINE USE. However, customer discretion is still advised. Content guidelines are provided as a courtesy to our customers in choosing whether to view a fi lm.



FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION

FILM TELEVISION




FILM TELEVISION

INTERNATIONAL LANGUAGE TRACKS (G) Die Auffl istungder Sprachen für ausgewählte Spielfi lme fi nden Sie für die 747-400 Maschinen auf Kanal 2 für alle weiteren Maschinen auf Kanal 10. (J) トラック

言語本の長編映画をチャンネル2と747-400航空機上の他の飛行機内でのチャネル10で選択されています (C) 在747-400型飞机上这些故事片的音频位于第 10频道. 在其他型号的飞机上位于第2频道

Digital media loading occurs between the 25th and 5th of each month. As a result, please understand if your fl ight features a different line-up before and after the start of each month.

FILM& TELEVISION—B747 MAINSCREEN PROGRAMMING

JAPAN

CHINA & HONG KONG

SINGAPORE– HONG KONGVIETNAM– HONG KONG

JAPAN–THAILAND

The Proposal (J)(C)

State of Play [V] (J)(C)

The Great Buck Howard (J)(C)

*Ghosts of Girlfriends Past [S](J)(C)*East Coast/ORD only

Desperate Housewives [T]

Eureka [T]

Frasier [T]


Eureka [T]

Frasier [T]

17 Again セブンティーン・アゲイン (J)


Eureka [T]

Frasier [T]


Eureka [T} / Frasier [T]

DISCOVERYDirty Jobs

How Stuff WorksTime Warp

BBC WORLD

Exploring Malaysia / Click

HARDtalk / Peschardt’s People

17 Again セブンティーン・アゲイン (J)

青春高校: 回到17 歲 (C) Ghosts of Girlfriends Past [S] (J)(C)

BBC WORLD

Exploring Malaysia

Click

HARDtalk

Peschardt’s People

Hong Kong to Ho Chi Minh City

Dragonball Evolution (J)

Dragon Ball 七龙珠 (C)

Star Trek (J)(C)


Eureka [T]

Frasier [T]

BBC WORLD

Exploring Malaysia

Click

HARDtalk

Peschardt’s People

The Proposal (J)(C)

State of Play [V] (J)(C)

The Great Buck Howard (J)(C)

Ghosts of Girlfriends Past [T][S](J)(C)

Imagine That (J)

童一個夢想 (C)

Easy Virtue (J)(C)

The Soloist [T] (J)(C)

*Star Trek [V][S] (J)(C)*East Coast/ORD fl ights only

Imagine That (J)

童一個夢想 (C)

Easy Virtue (J)(C)

The Soloist [T] (J)(C)

Star Trek [V][S] (J)(C)

Dragonball Evolution (J)

Dragon Ball 七龙珠 (C)

BBC WORLD

Exploring Malaysia / Click / HARDtalk / Peschardt’s People

Hong Kong to Ho Chi Minh City

EASTBOUND WESTBOUND


NCIS [T][V]

The Office [T]

The Proposal

Selbst ist die Braut (G)

State of Play [V] (G)

The Great Buck Howard (G)

*Ghosts of Girlfriends Past [T][S] (G)

*West Coast only

House [T]

This American Life

Two and a Half Men [T]

Imagine That

Imagine That Die Kraft

der Fantasie (G)

Easy Virtue (G)

The Soloist [T] (G)

*Star Trek [V][S] (G)

*West Coast only

The Proposal (G)

State of Play [V] (G)

The Great Buck Howard (G)

Ghosts of Girlfriends Past [T][S] (G)

House [T]

Top Chef

The Big Bang Theory [T]

Imagine That (G)

Easy Virtue (G)

The Soloist [T] (G)

Star Trek [V][S] (G)

This American Life

The Mentalist [T]

Click

GERMANY

AUSTRALIA


IMAGINE THAT

Eddie Murphy stars as a successful fi nancial executive who has more time for his BlackBerry than his seven-year-old daughter. When he has a crisis of confi dence and his career starts going down the drain, he fi nds the solution to all his problems in his daughter’s imaginary world. As his career rebounds, though, will he manage to balance his priorities? FEATURING Eddie Murphy, Nicole Ari Parker, Vanessa WilliamsDIRECTED BY Karey KirkpatrickParamount Pictures

1 hr. 47 min.

(S) Spanish(G) German(C) Chinese(J) Japanese

[V] Violence[S] Sexual Situations[T] Adult Themes

THE PROPOSAL

Margaret, a high-powered book editor in New York, faces deportation to her native Canada. She declares that she’s engaged to her assistant, Andrew, whom she’s tormented for years. She clues him in, and he agrees to participate with a few conditions of his own. When the couple heads to Alaska to meet his family, the city girl finds herself in one comedic situation after another. With a wedding in the works and an immigration official on their tails, Margaret and Andrew vow to stick to the plan, no matter the consequences. FEATURING Sandra Bullock, Ryan ReynoldsDIRECTED BY Anne FletcherTouchstone Pictures

EASY VIRTUE

A young Englishman marries an American divorcee somewhat spontaneously in the South of France and then must return home to face his family. Based on the play by Noel Coward, which was fi rst adapted by Alfred Hitchcock during the silent era, Easy Virtue is the epitome of British wit. The cast is led by Colin Firth, Kristin Scott Thomas and—as the American interloper—Jessica Biel, and the result is a wicked, high-toned comedy. FEATURING Jessica Biel, Colin Firth, Kristin Scott ThomasDIRECTED BY Stephan ElliottSony Pictures

1 hr. 37 min.

STATE OF PLAY [V]

Academy Award–winner Russell Crowe leads an all-star cast in this blistering thriller about a rising congressman and an investigative journalist embroiled in a case of seemingly unrelated, brutal killings. Crowe portrays the D.C. reporter who untangles a mystery of murder and collusion that connects unexpectedly to an unfl appable young politician (Ben Affl eck) who is the future of his political party. As the investigation continues, it reveals a cover-up that threatens to shake the nation’s power structures to their very core.FEATURING Russell Crowe, Ben Affl eck, Rachel McAdamsDIRECTED BY Kevin MacdonaldUniversal Pictures

2 hr. 1 min.

1 hr. 48 min.

Forgot your headphones? Buy them on board. Starting this fall, a limited number of headsets will be available for purchase in United Economy® on domestic fl ights.



FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISIONFILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION




“Ryan [Reynolds] and I have been friends forever, at least nine years, before both of our marriages. Our timing seemed compatible, but you just don’t know until you get into a scene together.”

—Sandra Bullock on The Proposal, Harper’s Bazaar

SEPTEMBER 1-15

The Proposal

SEPTEMBER 16-30

State of Play [V]

SEPTEMBER 1-15

The Offi ce [T]

This American Life


SEPTEMBER 16-30

Time Warp

Cities of the Underworld

The Simpsons

SEPTEMBER 1-15

Easy Virtue

SEPTEMBER 16-30

Imagine That

*Both films available on flights

between Denver/Chicago and Hawaii

SEPTEMBER 1-15

30 Rock [T]

Top Chef


SEPTEMBER 16-30

Parks and Recreation [T]


The Offi ce: An American Workplace

SEPTEMBER 1-15

State of Play [V]

SEPTEMBER 16-30

The Proposal

*Both films available on flights

between Denver/Chicago and Hawaii

SEPTEMBER 1-15

The Offi ce [T]

This American Life


SEPTEMBER 16-30

Time Warp

Cities of The Underworld

The Simpsons

SEPTEMBER 1-15

Imagine That

SEPTEMBER 16-30

Easy Virtue

SEPTEMBER 1-15


Chuck [T]

Top Chef

SEPTEMBER 16-30

The Office [T]

Dealiest Catch

Eli Stone [T]

SEPTEMBER 1-15

The Proposal

SEPTEMBER 16-30

State of Play [V]

SEPTEMBER 1-15


House [T]

Ugly Betty [T]

SEPTEMBER 16-30

Everybody Hates Chris [T]

Eureka [T]

Chuck [T]

SEPTEMBER 1-15

Imagine That

SEPTEMBER 16-30

Easy Virtue

SEPTEMBER 1-15

Frasier [T]

Chuck [T]


SEPTEMBER 16-30


Eureka [T]

Chuck [T]

SEPTEMBER 1-15

The Proposal

SEPTEMBER 16-30

State of Play [V]

SEPTEMBER 1-15


The Mentalist [T]

Cities of The Underworld

SEPTEMBER 16-30

The Office [T]

Deadliest Catch

Eli Stone [T]

NORTH AMERICA

HAWAII

JFK —SFO/LAX

MEXICO & CARIBBEAN

SEPTEMBER 1-15

Imagine That

SEPTEMBER 16-30

Easy Virtue

SEPTEMBER 1-15

30 Rock [T]

Top Chef


SEPTEMBER 16-30

Parks and Recreation [T]


The Offi ce: An American Workplace

FILM& TELEVISION

FILMS ARE SHOWN ONLY on fl ights of three hours or longer. Movies available on most 747, 757, 767, 777, A309 and A320 aircraft fl ights. Schedules and selections are subject to change. International Language Tracks / (S) Películas están disponsibles en Español en todas las rutas domesticas en el canal 10.

SOUTHBOUND NORTHBOUND

EASTBOUND WESTBOUND


SEPTEMBER 2009

PLAYENTERTAINMENT

102 Films & Television

109 Audio Programming

124 Crossword

126 Sudoku & Quiz

INFORMATION

112 United Destinations

116 Terminal Diagrams

121 Alliances & Partnerships

122 Customs & Immigration

128 Beverages & Food

Jessica Biel revs her engine in Easy Virtue, playing this month.

HEM_0909_Play_Cover.indd 1HEM_0909_Play_Cover.indd 1 10/08/2009 10:3010/08/2009 10:30

p100_Hemi_0909_Ads.indd 1p100_Hemi_0909_Ads.indd 1 12/08/2009 11:0112/08/2009 11:01

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Businesses today are looking for leaders. One of the most effective ways for adults to demonstrate they have the knowledge and skills necessary for the job is a Bellevue University master’s degree.

Bellevue University is a leader in adult learning with 15 online master’s degree programs that cover case studies and concepts current to business today including healthcare, management, leadership, and more. The first to offer the MBA online, Bellevue University now offers the MBA with 11 concentrations in career-relevant subjects including healthcare, MIS, international management, and more. Find out more at 800-756-7920, and see Bellevue.edu.

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HALL-MART Shoppers in the Great Market Hall

HEM_0909_3PD(Budapest).indd 12HEM_0909_3PD(Budapest).indd 12 06/08/2009 15:3306/08/2009 15:33

In the late afternoon, it’s time to wander farther into the Józsefváros district until you fi nally stumble on the fantastical Museum of Applied Arts (4). An art nouveau Hungarian hybrid, the museum is inspired by Hungary’s Turkish and Asian roots (dating back to the days of Attila the Hun), with nearly every surface adorned with colorful Zsolnay tiles.

Just when you’ve rebounded from the last multicourse meal, it’s on to the next. Take a taxi to Arcade Bistro (5), a chicly understated restaurant located on a quiet back street in Buda. Indulge in the sweet pea soup, rich, tender duck and a dessert of homemade ice cream and fresh raspberries.

Hop a taxi to Gödör Klub (6), an outdoor bar with an anything-can-happen vibe, housed amid the unfi nished foundations of what was to be the National Theatre on Erzsébet Tér—a fi ne example of the Budapestian knack for turning disappointment into an excuse to party. Here, the capital’s young scenesters throng around café tables and talk about how Budapest has changed over the years. Without much eff ort you’re absorbed into a group of expats, who insist that the city is becoming a more cosmopolitan place. But everyone, even the traditionalists resistant to such changes, seem to agree: Budapest is still delightfully raw and decadent.

In the small hours of the night you wander back to The Gresham, its sophistication standing in stark contrast to the hip gypsy band you’ve just heard at the Gödör. Intrigued by this enigmatic city, you throw back your heavy teal drapes and step out onto your balcony, awestruck by the nighttime view of Buda Castle and the Chain Bridge, the glittering, ominous currents of the Danube swirling below.

SARAH HORNE has never felt so ravishing as she did wearing a standard-issue Gellért Spa bathing cap.

THIS LITTLE PIGGY WENT TO MARKET Above, a sampling of the local pork products sold at the Great Market Hall; and the exterior and interior of the Museum of Applied Arts, below

VANDAD KHASHEFI PHOTO STUDIO OWNER // “If I want some quiet I head to Margaret Island, right in the middle of the Danube. Parts of it feel quite wild, and there’s an old ruined church on the island that looks like something out of an eerie fairy tale—lovely, weird and out of place.”

BLACK SOUP Coffeehouse culture done right // Hungarians are rightfully proud of their gorgeous kávéházes, where turn-of-the-century writers and intellectuals once energized endless debates with the local joe (dubbed “black soup”). Today, the tradition continues. Kávéházes still offer artist-friendly prices, suitably sudbued venues to write and think, and three meals a day. Fine brews can be found at glitzed-up grande dames like Café New York (at the New York Palace Boscolo Hotel); and the more well-worn, like Café Central, where you might actually spot a writer or two settling in for a day's scribbling, laptop at the ready. Then there's the funkily restored Dunapark, fi rst opened in 1937, where, as Metternich had it, “the coffee is as black as the souls of diplomats.” We think he meant it in a good way.

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THOSE 3 PERFECT DAYS DAY ONE (1) The Gresham Palace Roosevelt tér 5-6; Tel: 36-1-268-6000 (2) Chain Bridge Between Roosevelt

tér and Clark Ádám tér (3) Lánchíd 19 Design Hotel Lánchíd utca 19-21; Tel: 36-1-419-1900 (4) Fisherman’s Bastion Hunyadi Janos út (5) Hotel Gellért Szent Gellért tér 1; Tel: 36-1-889-5500

(6) St. Stephen’s Basilica V. Szent István tér 33 (7) Café Kör Sas utca 17; Tel: 36-1-311-0053 DAY TWO (1) California Coffee Company Teréz körút 38.; Tel: 36-30-465-2195

(2) Müvész Kávéhás Andrássy út 29; Tel: 36-1-352-1337 (3) Hungarian State Opera House Andrássy út 22; Tel: 36-1-332-8197 (4) Klassz Andrássy út 41 (5) Heroes Square Andrássy út at Dozsa György út

(6) City Park Állatkerti körút (7) Vajdahunyad Castle Városliget (8) Academy of Music Liszt Ferenc ter 8; Tel: 36-1-341-4788 (9) Menza VI. Liszt Ferenc tér 2;

Tel: 36-1-413-1482 (10) M VII. Kertész utca 48; Tel: 36-1-342-8991 (11) Szimpla Kert Kazinczy utca 14; Tel: 36-1-352 4198

DAY THREE (1) Café Gerbeaud Vörösmarty tér 7-8; Tel: 36-1-429-9000 (2) Great Market Hall Vamhaz körút 1-3; Tel: 36-1-366-3300 (3) Hungarian National Museum Múzeum korut 14-16; Tel: 36-1-338-2122

(4) Museum of Applied Arts Üllöi út 33-37; Tel: 36-1-456-5100 (5) Arcade Bistro Kiss Janos Alt. utca 38; Tel: 06-1-225-1969 (6) Gödör Klub Erzsébet térM

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Then it’s on to dinner at M (10), a delightfully kitschy hole in the wall. Ask for venison stew chased with a bottle of Villány red, which will inevitably be consumed amid a haze of cigarette smoke (don’t bother protesting). Before you know it you’re chatting with the artists at the next table, draining a shot of Unicum and following your new friends to Szimpla Kert (11), a bar in the old Jewish quarter. A discreet sign leads into what appears to be an abandoned building, and suddenly you’re in a beer garden crowded with young night owls. Before you know it, it’s well past three. The Budapestians show no signs of letting up, but you call a taxi and fall asleep before your head hits the soft goose-down pillow.

DAY THREE Now a devoted habitué of Budapest’s medicinal baths, you trudge to The Gresham’s top-fl oor spa and steep yourself in its hot tub, allowing last

night’s toxins to evaporate in a cloud of steam. It’s all beginning to make sense. After a good 20 minutes, you emerge wrinkled like a prune, ready to face the day.

Walk the Danube and watch the pleasure boats bound for Vienna. Stop in at Café Gerbeaud (1), a grand, 150-year-old coff ee shop once favored by Sissi, the Queen of Hungary. Step inside to admire the historic interiors and scarf down a doughnut.

Then it’s on to the Great Market Hall (2) for further lessons in Hungarian gastronomy. Watch as salesmen proff er bags of sweet or spicy paprika, fruit brandies, Pick salami and piles of fresh cherries to little old ladies carrying wicker baskets for their shopping.

Feeling overwhelmed by the vast quantities of sausage on display—which really doesn’t travel well, let’s be honest—it’s on to the Hungarian National Museum (3) and somewhat more cerebral pursuits. Across the street, browse in one of a half-dozen bookstores, where you can get lost thumbing through antique maps of Hungary and vintage books in Magyar. Head for a highly intellectual lunch at Múzeum, and watch professors from the nearby university locked in serious conversation, seemingly oblivious to the powder-pink tablecloths.

SZANDRA SANDORFASHION DESIGNER, NANUSHKA // “Budapest’s a great design city. I love to check out what’s going on in Hungarian fashion at Retrock Deluxe, a boutique (that also sells my clothes) on Henszlmann Imre Utca. For retro 20th century furniture there’s Möbelkunst, and for quirky objects or gifts, I also love Forma.”

WATER WORLD Diving into Budapest’s

inscrutable spas // It’s not easy to understand the rituals of the Hungarian spa, but never mind the obtuse entry procedures: It’s best to plunge right in. People have been “taking the waters” in Budapest since the days of Aquincum, when the Roman colonists took great pleasure in turning themselves into prunes in a steamy communal setting. At storied old baths like the Széchenyi in City Park, you'll be privy to an anthropological experience central to life in Budapest. Note the placards imploring you not to smoke or eat Sachertorte in the pools. From the sidelines, oiled-up octogenarians watch the healthful proceedings approvingly, all the while eating fried chicken sandwiches and puffi ng away on ciggies. You do a lap or two, watch some old guys playing nearly-naked chess, and lie back on your scratchy towel. Ah, relaxing.


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FINE TUNED A pianist at the Academy of Music, and the opulent Gerbeaud Coffeehouse

3


ONE KLASSZ-Y JOINT At the swank bistro Klassz, a serving of roasted duck leg with red cabbage

DAY TWO Make your way back toward the Basilica and step in line for a pastry and a strong brew to go from the California Coffee Company (1), a local favorite

near the steps of the church. Then make your way to Andrássy Út (Andrássy Avenue), an elegant boulevard built in the 1870s and seemingly invented for peacocking and pontifi cating. The avenue has recently undergone a renaissance, luring luxury brands like Gucci, Roberto Cavalli and Louis Vuitton, though it’s also retained its historic charm. Tucked between these designer behemoths are vintage spots such as the Müvész Kávéház (2), where tweedy types drain espressos under glinting chandeliers. After absorbing some of the beatnik grooviness, cross the street and peer into the lobby of the Hungarian State Opera House (3)—which is all but plastered in gold leaf—where Gustav Mahler once directed the opera.

Then it’s on to lunch at Klassz (4), a swank wine bar and bistro. Peruse the bottles of local wine in the back and take a seat at one of the tables in the bar for a leisurely Hungarian lunch with a modern twist—don’t miss the lemon ginger risotto or the zucchini cream soup, poured ceremoniously at the table from a copper sauce pan.

Descend into the underground and take the M1 train, the second-oldest subway line in the world, emerging at Hösöck Tere (Heroes Square) (5). Behind the square sits Városliget (City Park) (6), home to the neo-Baroque Széchenyi Baths and the

peculiar hodgepodge of Vajdahunyad Castle (7), built for the 1896 millennial celebrations marking the arrival of the fi rst Magyar tribes in Hungary. Ignore the agricultural museum inside and feel a sense of awe as you bask in the shadows of the castle’s Disneyfi ed extravagance.

Find your way back to Liszt Ferenc Tér, a tree-shaded square decked with a contemporary statue of the composer Franz Liszt, who called Budapest his home for stretches in the 1870s and 1880s, and make your way past the Academy of Music (8), built in 1907 and also bearing Liszt’s image. Listen for the strains of students rehearsing cello and piano, and toast Budapest’s enduring love of classical music at Menza (9), a fashionably retro café and bar on the square, decorated in 1960s style in homage to the campy communist canteens of the era. Order a house beer and watch the now-contented capitalists quaffi ng cocktails and ordering (with a touch of irony) Hungarian staples such as goulash and dumplings.

EGÉSZSÉGEDRE! Even if you can’t pronounce the national toast, you can still partake like a local.

TOKAJ WINE // Thought to have been discovered by accident when a 16th century Hungarian princess postponed the wine harvest (due to those pesky Turkish invaders), Tokaj wine is produced partly with grapes that have been affl icted with “the noble rot.” Fans of the stuff include Peter

the Great, Louis XIV and Queen Victoria. Go on, indulge in a glass or three.

UNICUM // First prescribed by a Dr. Zwack to the Austro-Hungarian royals for the treatment of digestive troubles, this powerfully bitter national institution isn’t just a kitschy nostalgia act. Pop

into just about any corner grocer and ask for a bottle of the black bitters. Take a swig and see if you still need that Rolaids.

PÁLINKA // Downed with breakfast in the countryside, and 24/7 in Budapest, this fruit brandy comes in many varieties (all throat-searing) and has been described as “a necessity at village

pig killings” by food writer Carolyn Banfalvi. Sour cherry is a good bet, but if you’re feeling a surge of patriotism, go for the “Barack,” which means apricot in Hungarian. P

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ANDY HEFLER ACTOR // “I love Bambi,

a kitschy coffee shop in Buda that’s a throwback

to the Communist era. You’ll see little old ladies in orthopedic shoes and men playing dominoes, and the waitresses are

notoriously mean. It’s just so great—and so typical.”

3PD BUDAPEST


STEP INTO LIQUID The sublime Gellért Baths


on the quirky funicular railway and set about exploring Várhegy, the tourism nerve center, before the crowds gather.

After surveying the cobbled streets and taff y-hued cottages, wander over to the Fisherman's Bastion (4), a purposeless

fantasia erected at the start of the 20th century to evoke medieval ramparts, and take in the stunning views of Pest and the Gothic Revival Parliament building across the river through the arches. Inevitably, a charmingly impoverished music student nearby is playing a mournful tune on his violin.

Before you give up on the ever-so-slightly artifi cial-seeming Buda, take a taxi down the hill to Krisztina Tér and lunch at the landmark Café Déryné, a 1914 coff eehouse and patisserie once frequented by Budapest’s literati and now restored and refreshed as a funky French-Hungarian bistro. Watch local swells fl it about in scarves and horn-rimmed glasses as you dunk fresh-baked bread into fi nely spiced pumpkin soup.

Next, hop onto the No. 18 tram. Alight from the kitschy buttercup-yellow vehicle in front of the Hotel Gellért (5), named for an 11th century Italian bishop who was martyred when he was rolled from the heights of Gellért Hill inside a barrel lined with nails. (Ouch!) Cheered by this news, enter the dramatic 1918 building and follow signs marked “swimming pool”—a vast understatement. Pass through the turnstile into the amazing tiled baths, don a bathing cap and do some laps with the local gentry before slipping into hot and cold underground pools. The ritual will leave you pleasantly befuddled and invigorated.

Back on the Pest side of the river, don some stylish duds and take a stroll down the pedestrianized Zrínyi Utca, the imposing St. Stephen’s Basilica (6) looming before you. Walk a few short blocks to Café Kör (7), a wood-paneled institution with clubby green library lights where the night’s Hungarian dinner specials are scrawled on a sheet of craft paper on the wall. Order wine from the Lake Balaton region, a hearty plate of chicken paprikas and rice, and sit back and wonder how you can possibly consume portions this large for the next 48 hours.

After imbibing a postdinner sour cherry pálinka, waddle back to your hotel absurdly sated, and sleep like a baby.

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VERONIKA HARCSAMUSICIAN // “Go to Citadella, the old fort on Gellert Hill, and have a look at Budapestfrom above. Whenever I travel to Paris, London, Rome or Helsinki, on myfi rst day I try to fi nd a high spot to have a look at the city from above. It gives you a certain point of view.”

ROGUES GALLERY Fantastical Fisherman’s Bastion and its stern-faced protectors

POOL PLAYERS Immersed in the timeless thermal baths

ILLUSTRATIONS BY ESRA CAROLINE RØISE



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TOWER AND THE GLORYThe steeple of St.

Stephen’s Basilica looks onto Pest.


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FLICK THROUGH ANY HISTORY OF BUDAPEST and it’s abundantly clear that for every fl ourishing of the arts and architecture, for every golden decade fi lled with pastries and sweet coff ee and endless conversation, residents have had to endure less lovely periods. It’s no wonder Budapestians have a reputation for telling it like it is. Suff ering invasions by the Turks, the Germans and the Communists, the city’s denizens developed a taste for both decadence and rebellion, tempered by a hefty dash of sunny resignation.

And yet, in spite of it all, Budapest is fl ourishing again, its grand buildings refaced, its pitted streets once more lined with Belgian blocks, its edgy spirit thriving in unexpected corners. But don’t worry—the city’s rebirth hasn’t diminished its bohemian dreaminess. Hollywood couldn’t have concocted a more evocative, nostalgic scene. All you have to do is step into one of the city’s smoke-fi lled bars, where locals squabble good-naturedly until dawn. Or you can take in the buildings skirting the Danube (which splits the city in two: Buda and Pest), all moody in the hazy afternoon light. Budapest is moving forward, but its heady past is everywhere.

And rest assured—the shopkeepers are still delightfully surly.

DAY ONE Channel the minor European aristocrat within as you wake up under starched sheets at The Gresham Palace (1), a 1906

Art Nouveau masterpiece ravaged during World War II and restored to its former glory in 2004 by Four Seasons. Descend to the lobby and linger for a while, transported back to the height of Budapest’s Golden Age, when The Gresham’s shopping arcade was fi lled with every fop and dandy worth knowing.

Steel yourself for a day of walking with a carafe of strong coff ee, fresh bread, cheeses and dried meats—vegans beware, you’re in Hungary now—at the Gresham Kávéház, where British bankers in pinstripes seal their investment deals with a handshake. Step through the whimsical peacock-adorned wrought-iron gates and out into the city.

Cross on foot from Pest, the commercial 19th-century city, to Buda, its leafy, medieval counterpart, by way of the landmark Széchenyi Lánchíd (Chain Bridge) (2) and keep your eyes out for the façade of the Lánchíd 19 Design Hotel (3), a cutting-edge building designed by Hungarian architects and artists on the Buda side of the river. Its high-tech shutters move constantly in response to the shifting daylight, rippling like translucent fi sh scales. Ascend to Castle Hill

3PD BUDAPEST

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HIT THE DECK! A peaceful nook at the Lánchíd 19 Design Hotel

BLUE DANUBE The lobby of The Gresham Palace ; the Szechenyi Baths; and, opposite, the Buda Castle District beyond the Chain Bridge

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78 DAY ONECrossing the Danube and having a bath

83 DAY TWODining alfresco and listening to cellos

84 DAY THREESpice shopping at the Great Market Hall

CROSSING THE LION The Chain Bridge links Buda with Pest.

For centuries a tumultuous crossroads of art, architecture, invasion and rebellion, the bohemian capital of Hungary has fi nally found serenity. But it’s still got a maverick soul. // BY SARAH HORNE

3 Perfect Days

Budapest


76



But what exactly is the message? Meltzer off ers up a bit of corporate boilerplate—“It has always been the company’s goal to give the people what they want: exceptional clothing at aff ordable prices”—which diff ers not at all from the Gap’s. The thing that really distinguishes Uniqlo, and that it hopes will lure Parisians, just as it lured Londoners and New Yorkers before them, is its supersoft secret weapon: the jarringly inexpensive $90 signature cashmere sweater.

Uniqlo’s cashmere calling card is cleanly and classically cut, comes in 20 colors (enough for a decent Crayola set) and is made of quality knits that rival sweaters retailing for double the price. This is the end result of Uniqlo’s remarkable economy of scale. When you sell more than a million cashmere sweaters a year and police the manufacturing from shepherd to clothes rack, as the company does, it’s not too hard to undercut rivals. And that’s part of what makes the company recession-proof. When Uniqlo opened its New York store, its reputation as “the Gap of Japan” (a comparison Uniqlo’s executives bristle at) was already percolating. But it was the sweater that made the typically jaded fashion press—from market editors at Elle to bloggers like The Budget Fashionista—take note.

This is not “disposable” fashion, however. Yanai still examines many new designs before they reach the racks. When New York designer and boutique retailer Steven Alan went to Tokyo to fi t some limited-edition items he created for the company, he was shocked when Yanai himself stopped in to approve it.

“We were in the room, and there’s probably about ten very high-level people there, and Yanai walked in,” Alan says. “It was as if a three-star general had just entered a room full of new recruits. Everyone backed up, like, fi ve steps, and there was dead silence for a long time as he looked at everything. Then he smiled and shook my hand and said, ‘I like it.’”

IN THE LARGE storefront windows of Uniqlo’s New York fl agship, passersby see...practically nothing. There are no tableaux of the good life as lived in Uniqlo casualwear, no clever, carefully

accessorized arrangements of colorful merchandise. But just inside the entrance stands a massive glass box with an enormous, handcrafted bamboo koi fi sh. The work of artist Stephen Talasnik, it is simple, precise, playful and undeniably Japanese. Lest we forget this is a clothing store, beneath the koi are rotating mannequins in summer specials: plaid sport shirts and polos over cargo shorts, accessorized with rubber boots and fi shing nets. (The koi, it is promised, is crossing the pond for the Paris opening.)

Beyond the sculpture, we see another side of the Japanese aesthetic—the glossy, frenzied pop of the Shibuya district—which immediately sets Uniqlo apart from the H&M down the street. Stacked 50 feet high on the walls is a vast array of kooky, colorful street fashions: graphic T-shirts depicting a myriad of manga characters, doodles by artists like Jean-Michel Basquiat

and Keith Haring, and images by countless lesser-known designers. Somehow these coexist with the ultratraditional (Women’s Yakuta Set, $39!) and summer suits that could have stepped off a Merchant Ivory set. It’s part Brooks Brothers, part Hot Topic, but without the strenuous pretentions of either.

The company’s high-low embrace is calculated. To celebrate Pac-Man’s 30th anniversary, the SoHo store hosted a Pac-Man bonanza, with two machines on the mezzanine. But Uniqlo has fi gured out that the kid in the skinny jeans and day-glo shirt may be the same guy (on the same budget) trying on a wool navy suit. On a recent trip to buy a whipcord summer suit I’d heard about, I also picked up three pairs of dress trousers practically identical to ones I’d paid much more for elsewhere. The total? $209. And they hem the pants for free.

Uniqlo’s attire has a sophisticated, slender fi t—one that’s

decidedly un-American. In fact, few things at the New York store would look good on an XXL frame, which raises the question of just how easily Uniqlo will win over shoppers beyond the skinny precincts of Manhattan. Yanai has made clear he intends to expand throughout the U.S. (and has even indicated a willingness to adjust the fi t of some items), but to do so eff ectively, the company will likely stick to the trendier areas.

If things go according to plan, in the next fi ve years Uniqlo will have opened stores in dozens of major cities in Europe, North America and Asia. No wonder, then, that Yanai has become so outspoken about his goals. “I want to be No. 1 in the world...to be bigger than the Gap,” he said last year. “I think it is only part of our human nature that we want to be the best at something.”

In this anything-goes economy, when seemingly impregnable corporate titans collapse overnight, being the best is riskier than ever. But Uniqlo marches on: Today the cashmere sweater, tomorrow the world.

The director of editorial projects at GQ, MARK HEALY buys his pants—Uniqlo slim fi t fl at-front trousers—three at a time.

ALL THE RAGE 6. The acclaimed $90 cashmere sweater fi rst caught American customers’ eyes. 7. Translucent steps lead to the SoHo store’s mezzanine. 8. A Superman-branded tee on level two 9. When the New York City store fi rst opened, long lines greeted eager shoppers.

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BOARDING PASS Join the throng of Big Apple tourists singing “I Love New York.” Okay, maybe there aren’t throngs of tourists bursting out in song, but you’ll love getting there on United’s transcontinental premium service fl ights. Not going coast to coast? Don’t fret: United also serves New York/Newark from Chicago, Denver and Washington, D.C.

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HE RICHEST businessman in Japan believes in you. He believes in your taste, your good sense, your personal style. He thinks you’re smart and sophisticated and discerning. He knows you value style over status, design over ostentation, and quality over fl eeting fashion. He knows you’re too independent to chase trends, too smart and self-

assured for slavish brand identifi cation. More than anything, he’s confi dent that you know how to dress yourself. Since 1984, these beliefs have made Tadashi Yanai, the 59-year-old founder of Uniqlo, one of the world’s most successful retailers. And now, while other big apparel manufacturers are limping through a global recession, Yanai is positioning the low-key store he started 25 years ago in a Hiroshima shopping center to be the largest, most dominant clothing company in the world.

He’s off to an impressive start. Built on the simple promise of well-made, smartly designed clothes at practically irresistible prices, Uniqlo’s parent company, Fast Retailing, posted an increase of 28 percent in profi ts over a nine-month period that ended in July, while Uniqlo’s April sales were up 19 percent over the previous month. Yanai was recently added to Forbes’ list of the world’s 10 wealthiest executives, with a reported worth of $6.1 billion.

Shrewd business moves are part of the story, of course, but central to Uniqlo’s success is what has so far been a fi rm grasp of how the world wants to dress. Already the biggest retail clothing company in Asia, and with more than 750 stores in six countries around the world, Uniqlo (a contraction of

“unique” and “clothes”) now fi nds itself with the money, the reach and the ambition to challenge the Gap and H&M for world dominance. The Gap opened in San Francisco in 1969 and essentially invented the formula that Uniqlo has adopted: stylish and aff ordable basics. Now, as the Gap has spent the past year limping along with double-digit sales declines, Yanai is publicly fl irting with buying the competition outright, calling the notion “not such a crazy idea.”

Once as unmistakably Japanese as nori rolls and Hello Kitty (Uniqlo has provided the uniforms for Japan’s Olympic teams in 2002 and 2004), the company’s expansion beyond Japan—throughout Asia, Australia, the U.K., the U.S. and, most recently, to France—is proof of its universal appeal. But after building its reputation on staples like fl eece pullovers, sweaters and polos in a staggering variety of colors, Uniqlo appears ready to take some risks. After watching its competitors forge high-profi le, fashion-forward alliances—the Gap hired Patrick Robinson (formerly of Perry Ellis) to update its lines; Swedish giant H&M established buzz-generating partnerships with brand-name types like Karl Lagerfeld, Stella McCartney and Madonna; and this past spring TopShop released its ninth collection designed by Kate Moss—Uniqlo is following suit. This summer, Yanai announced what could amount to an industry game-changer: German design stalwart Jil Sander will become Uniqlo’s creative director. On the surface, it’s unquestionably a major coup: Sander’s low-key sophistication is as good a fi t with the Uniqlo philosophy as her famous stovepipe trousers. Then again, the arrival of a top fashionista would seem to contradict the understated, proudly generic charm of a brand that still gives its denim styles names such as S-001 and S-002.

TEN YEARS AGO, Uniqlo opened its fi rst Tokyo store in the trendy Harajuku district. By the end of 2009, it’ll have 900 spread across four continents. The lone American location, a 36,000-square-foot monolith

in the heart of New York’s downtown fl agship district (Apple, Prada, H&M, Old Navy and others all have high-profi le stores nearby), opened three years ago. “Uniqlo makes sense in all areas of the world,” claims Liz Meltzer, senior vice president of global merchandising. “We make clothing that can be worn by everyone.”

This fall, Uniqlo will put that boast to the test, opening a new fl agship in Paris—its fi rst full-fl edged foray into the crowded, cutthroat fashion world of continental Europe. The invasion started with a modest Paris test store in 2007, but the real charm off ensive began in May, at the Cannes fi lm festival, where Uniqlo erected pop-up shops and sponsored a contest to design the festival’s offi cial T-shirt. Then, in July, the company opened a series of temporary stores around the über-trendy Marais district, which displayed just enough of Uniqlo’s basics to get the message across.

STYLE-HIGH CITY 1. CEO Tadashi Yanai at his Tokyo headquarters 2. Mannequins at the store entrance announce seasonal styles. 3. A sunny selection of polo shirts 4. Faux vintage T-shirts branded with the Dig Dug video game 5. 50-foot-high walls in New York City burst with a wide palette of colors.

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it was the classic Cartier Tank that got him dreaming of designing them. “I was in my 20s when I fi rst noticed it,” he remembers. “I was so impressed with it. Very good volume, very well-balanced—a perfect piece.”

With his space-age materials and radical design, Mille has traveled a long way from that classic. He is known for choosing unusual materials, some of which belong on a Formula One car or an Abrams tank rather than a timepiece. He’s always searching for the next metal that will serve his complex visions. He’s sliced 30 diff erent kinds of stone into razor-thin wheels to power one watch. For his gorgeous Tourbillon RM 012—which, with its visible braces and tubes, resembles the exterior of the John Hancock Center skyscraper in Chicago—Mille employed the aluminum alloy Anticorodal 100, normally used in ships and—no surprise—high-rise buildings. He incorporated electro-plasma techniques typically used in the production of medical instruments for the RM 016, the sleek, gray model he’s wearing at the moment. “The way it catches the light, the softness to the touch, very sexy,” he says, looking at it lovingly. There’s only one material that’s defeated him: barium, which is used on space shuttles. Unfortunately, it proved too dangerous to bring into the factory.

When the Frenchman isn’t sketching out new models, he’s at his English country home or traveling the world promoting the brand. He could aff ord to slow down. His sales this year are up 17 percent at a time when luxury fi rms are watching their profi ts free-fall. But Mille is pushing ahead, sketching new models even as he jets to Las Vegas for the world’s biggest jewelry show.

“Why? Because it’s very interesting,” Mille says. “I love to mix the theater of life and the theater of business.”

Even though his watches cost about the same as a nice townhouse, Mille insists he designs them to be worn. He hates the idea of collectors snapping them up and placing them in vaults to be viewed only on special occasions. The Formula One driver Felipe Massa, his offi cial representative, wears his RM when screaming around tracks at over 200 miles per hour. “Formula One

is a killer, and I like that. When they go around the turns, the G forces are very tough on the watch.” That is what Mille likes to imagine his customers doing with his timepieces, testing what he calls their “mechanical limits” by day and then wearing them out on the town at night.

The ideal customer? “John Malkovich,” Mille says instantly. “For me, he would be the ideal man.”

Perhaps not the obvious choice, but the new RM 020 pocket watch would

certainly fi t the quirky actor. It’s a typically exotic production, with a titanium chain and a baseplate made of carbon nanofi ber (used in the U.S. Air Force’s combat jets) created at temperatures of 2,000 degrees Celsius. Close up, the heavy rectangular piece is unlike any watch you’ve ever seen. Its skeletonized construction enables you to see the movement at work and gives the watch a three-

dimensional presence. It doesn’t just give you the time, it lets you observe the time being made. And its red gold exterior, also available in white gold or titanium, gives it a touch of conspicuous excess.

The designer plays with a prototype, attaching it to a chain hooked to his jeans, and then holds it up to the light.

One of his assistants watches him nervously, perhaps worried Mille will decide to change the fi nish at the last moment. But the designer only smiles and places the watch on his desk. After months of development and production, he’s happy with it.

“Everyone told me the pocket watch was dead,” Mille says. “I decided to revisit the idea. I fi nd it very unusual. We need to do something new, add an artistic dimension. At this kind of price, people must be buying pieces of art.”

In the coming months, Mille will also be introducing an expanded women’s line and another big diver’s watch that is surprisingly light on the wrist (a Mille hallmark). But if you ask him about the timepiece he dreams about, his Holy Grail piece, he talks about a watch out of a science fi ction movie.

“My dream watch would have all the information projected directly into the eye,” he says, leaning forward enthusiastically. “Like the aircraft pilots have with some of their instrument panels. You close your eyes and you have all the information.”

Mille closes his eyes. He is dreaming. He is happy. His assistant quietly takes the pocket watch and sneaks away.

STEPHAN TALTY’s recent book, The Illustrious Dead, is about a typhus epidemic that struck the armies of Napoleon, who wore a Breguet watch.

T I M E I S M O N E Y

Clockwise from right, the RM 019, the gears that make the RM 008 tick the RM 020 pocket watch and the RM 025 diver’s watch

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R.1 HEM_0909_Watchmaker.indd 8R.1 HEM_0909_Watchmaker.indd 8 10/08/2009 16:5210/08/2009 16:52

W A T C H M E N O W

Mille’s workers are given the freedom of artists. If they have a headache, they go home.

UNITED.COMSEPTEMBER 2009

09 . 2009

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Mand the most complex, the RM 008, which has more than 500 moving parts. In July, he shipped his RM 020 pocket watch, a $440,000 throwback to another era. Collectors and global timepiece fetishists are clamoring to see it.

Right now, Mille is to watches what Enzo Ferrari was to racecars—the man who revolutionized the form. And he’s a little bit mad about the whole thing.

“They say to do this job you must have killed your father and mother,” Mille says without cracking a smile, as he strolls across the fl oor of his factory. What he means is that you have to be dedicated to the work to an unhealthy degree. “Watchmakers are like surgeons,” he says. “Sometimes they collapse; sometimes they cry.”

Perhaps Mille is diff erent from the average watchmaker because he’s an interloper in the world of haute horology. To begin with, he’s French. When he meets you for a tour of his factory, he looks like a Parisian viscount who’s been forcibly ejected from an F. Scott Fitzgerald novel. Dressed in a crisp white oxford shirt, jeans and handmade brown leather shoes, his appearance is a far cry from what one might expect from the CEO and chief designer of a luxury goods brand.

But Mille’s real secret is that he approaches watchmaking as a certain type of Frenchman would. One like louche crooner Serge Gainsbourg. Or Napoleon. Whereas a brand like Patek Philippe produces heirloom pieces that look as though they could have been made a hundred years ago, Mille is looking to reinvent the game with watches that resemble nothing ever strapped on a wrist.

“Sometimes we shout, we kiss, we celebrate after creating a great watch,” says the designer, gesturing toward the factory fl oor, where men dressed in blue dust-free suits work on his latest designs. “This you can only fi nd in an object of passion.”

Mille’s factory is sleek as a battleship, with huge windows framed by gray stone. It houses 50 technicians who produce about 2,000 watches a year. (Mille hopes to increase that to between 3,000 and 4,000 in a couple of years, but he has vowed never to become a mass-market house.) Every worker stands in his or her own small, sectioned-off space, where each stamps tiny balance wheels or fashions the struts that make a Mille piece tick. Each has as much freedom as a

MAKING WATCHES IS, ON ITS SURFACE, SERIOUS BUSINESS. The best practitioners make solid timepieces that are worn by presidents and industrialists and Jay-Z, but share in none of their clients’ fame or glory. Their products don’t glow in the dark, aren’t typically encrusted with diamonds and are not the size of drink coasters. These watches always show the correct time because their makers are painstaking types who hold engineering degrees, collect vintage cuckoo clocks and look as if they run the unsexy parts of large banks. Not Richard Mille, however. At his factory at Les Breuleux, 90 miles northeast of Geneva, the master watchmaker is turning out new pieces with the brio of a deranged Renaissance sculptor. He’s created the most expensive line of timepieces in the world, along with the lightest watch, the RM 009,

P U N C H I N G T H E C L O C K

Mille’s Les Breuleux factory, where 50 workers build 2,000 timepieces a year

sculptor working in his atelier. f one has a headache, he simply goes home. Better that than scratch a base plate on a watch that costs half a million dollars.

“I wanted to create a cool space,” Mille says, nodding at a man polishing a titanium watch bezel. “I hate rushing. Sometimes, the assembly of a single piece can take an entire month, so the factory has to refl ect that.”

Mille is an admitted perfectionist. He rejects 35 to 40 percent of the fi nished products because they aren’t up to his standards. Or they just don’t look right, meaning the entire design has to be altered. Often when Mille’s marketing team is ready to announce the delivery of a much-anticipated watch, he will pull it back for a few modifi cations. He is at perpetual war with his salespeople.

“My life is miserable,” he jokes, his eyes lighting up mischievously, “because they are always pushing me, pressuring me for deliveries.”

That kind of drive is what people want in a super-high-end watch. “My customers are buying a piece of art, not just a timepiece,” Mille says. “If we don’t add that personality, they’ll get fed up.”

His recent diver’s timepiece, the RM 025, is a brawny monster packing 30 jewels; its titanium parts have been “sapphire blasted” to create the perfect fi nish—the diver’s watch taken to its ridiculous, luxurious extreme.

The engineering of the watches is all done on computers, but when he dreams them up, Mille’s technique more closely resembles a cartoonist’s than a technician’s. “I always begin with a concept and then turn it into a mechanical thing,” he says. “I have little balloons where I draw the components in three dimensions. But the most important thing is not to lose the spirit of the original idea. I’m a bulldog when it comes to keeping the soul of the drawing in the fi nal piece.”

Mille grew up in the south of France, went to business school and ended up at the French accessories company Mauboussin, where he rose to become CEO of the jewelry division. But he always wanted to create something of his own.

“At some point, it’s boring to ask people’s advice,” he admits. “I love to do what I want to do.”

Mille has been fascinated by timepieces since he was nine, when he took one apart to see how it worked (and was unable to reassemble it). But

09 . 2009

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R.1 HEM_0909_Watchmaker.indd 3R.1 HEM_0909_Watchmaker.indd 3 10/08/2009 17:2010/08/2009 17:20

UNITED.COM

09 . 2009

T H E W A T C H M A N

BY STEPHAN TALTYPHOTOGRAPHS BY STEEVE IUNCKER

BY CREATING THE MOST COMPLEX, LIGHTEST AND—AT AROUND $400,000—MOST EXPENSIVE TIMEPIECES IN THE WORLD, RICHARD MILLE IS DRAGGING THE TIMELESS WORLD OF WATCHMAKING INTO THE FUTURE.

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62THE WATCHMANThe tale of a man and his time machinesBy Stephan Talty

70THE EMPEROR HAS NEW CLOTHES Can anything stop Uniqlo?By Mark Healy

76 3PD: BUDAPESTDecoding Hungary’s ravishing capitalBy Sarah Horne

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59fi ction

THE CLAMOR OF CHILDREN GREW MORE FAINT. “It’s good you came to get me early. Mom always takes

forever. Why don’t you pick me up every day?” “I had today off . But I’d like to come and get you every day.” The boy smiles and squeezes his father’s hand. They cross

the street and walk in silence. The father grabs his son’s hand again. “Let’s cross, this is the dumbos’ side.”

“Why is it the dumbos’ side?” “Because it’s where the sun hits. People who walk on the

sunny side are dumbos.” The boy laughs and repeats “the dumbos’ side…the

dumbos,” as if he’d memorized a new lesson. Cars drive right past them, and his eyes follow the speeding colors.

“And the ones who go by car, Papa?” “They’re like us, only they don’t need to walk.” “But they’re on the sunny side.” After a while the boy stops again and points at his left shoe.

“Look, there’s a hole in it.” His father examines the worn-out sole. “Why did they wear

out so fast? I bet you weren't taking care of them. You kids at school, with all your running around.”

“But I take them off at school when I play.” “I’ve seen how you twist your foot around when you sit

down. That’ll break ’em, I’ve told you a thousand times.”

“Mama has too.” “You have to learn to take care of things.” “If we had a car I bet my shoes wouldn’t fall apart. How

come you don’t buy me a new pair?” “How come? Because there aren’t any…there aren’t any shoes

anywhere.” Worried, the boy lowers his gaze. “It’s no big deal,” the father says, patting him on the head. “I’ll

take them to the shoemaker and they’ll look like new again.” The son stops and looks at his father gratefully, even admir-

ingly. “Before Mama sees, so she won’t notice what happened.” “Maybe, but we have to get going.” The father walks faster, not

noticing how hard the boy works to keep up. They turn right. “What a great truck,” the father says, pointing toward the street. But his son has his eyes fi xed on a store window.

“Papa, they have shoes. Will you buy all of them for me?” The father is speechless, dazed by the shiny glass, the colorful

ribbons, the lights—unlikely wonders on display. “Those shoes aren’t for sale,” he says fi nally. “It’s a museum.”

“Oh,” his son whispers, "a museum.” He glances back at the window overfl owing with new shoes, so many he couldn’t even count them. “What a beautiful museum, Papa.”

BY LUÍS RAFAEL HERNÁNDEZTRANSLATED FROM THE SPANISH BY TOBIAS HECHT

ShoesFROM THE BOOK ECLIPSE , AN UMBRAGE EDITIONS PUBLICATION. PHOTOGRAPH BY ZALAMÏ.

TRANSLATION OF “ZAPATOS,” FIRST PUBLISHED IN WORDS WITHOUT BORDERS, AUGUST 2009. TRANSLATION © TOBIAS HECHT. FOR MORE INTERNATIONAL FICTION, SEE WORDSWITHOUTBORDERS.ORG.

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A 2007 Argentine study showed that small doses of the

impotence medication helped hamsters

recover from simulated jet lag.

The effect on their sex lives was not

reported.

Defy darkness and make Trekkies jealous by donning a geeky, programmable light

visor that shines bright light on your

face in sync with the daylight pattern of your destination.

—PETER KOCH

VIAGRA LIGHT VISOR

Everyone’s got a cure, of course, a pill, a routine, a bit of trusted quackery that promises to take the edge off , knock you out infl ight, get you on your feet when you land, uncramp your muscles, march you through customs, order room service and tuck you in at night (see Time Bandits). Admittedly, I long considered Ambien a trusted friend, until the time I woke up from my slumber on a long fl ight and, in a zombie state, punched up You’ve Got Mail with unidentifi able subtitles on my personal infl ight entertainment system. What kind of friend lets you do that?

Recently I got a press notice about a British juice drink called Mile High. It modestly claims to eliminate “any negative side eff ects of frequent fl ying and long haul travel such as fatigue and nausea” through the power of antioxidants. Not having joined the Mile High drink club, I can’t say for sure, but my guess is what causes fatigue isn’t oxidants but lack of sleep.

A scientifi c journal from the

International Society for Computational Biology reported recently on tests to fi ght jet lag by exposing test patients to “interventional light stimuli.” By the time I got to the end of the article, my eyes were strained and my head was throbbing—not unlike my response to a typical transatlantic red-eye. I wouldn't be surprised if scientists do someday manage to alter the body’s rhythm with light—I’ve heard the same technique works wonders on egg-laying chickens, to say nothing of marijuana plants—but fl ashing lights on and off during sales meetings might not be quite what it takes to close a deal. So, no thanks. While science chases a cure, I’ll stick to wandering around gaga before passing out cold and sleeping dreamlessly through the night.

Returning from Japan last month, I was in New York for a couple of days before fl ying down to Louisville, Kentucky, then over to London and around the north of England, back to New York and on to Denver. To see these cities in these quick fl ashes in less than a month made me light-headed. I was struck by a kind of geographical dizziness. Staring out the window of a shuttle bus from the Denver airport heading to Boulder, I had strange, dreamy notions. Hey, I didn’t know they had Chuck E. Cheese’s in Yorkshire…I wonder if the big mouse talks with an accent?

Clearly all these time zones had left me more than a little unhinged. But I liked the confusion. It felt like a modern ailment. A little sleepiness, a touch of bewilderment, I realized, even as I nodded off , is nothing more or less than a normal, rational, authentic response to the still-astonishing fact of being fl own around the world. To chalk this all up to something as mechanical as the resetting of an invisible clock seemed absurdly reductive, but more than that, it seemed to miss the point of travel altogether. We don’t need a cure for jet lag, I thought, my eyes fl ickering shut as the bus rumbled onto the Northwest Parkway. We need a nap.

Travel writer ADAM SACHS has no idea where he is half the time, but he can usually fi nd out by checking adamsachs.org.

Best coverage worldwide.

Best coverage claim based on global coverage of U.S. carriers. Activation of international service required. ©2009 AT&T Intellectual Property. Service provided by AT&T Mobility. All rights reserved. AT&T, the AT&T logo, and all other marks contained herein are trademarks of AT&T Intellectual Property and/or AT&T affiliated companies. All other marks contained herein are the property of their respective owners. Coverage not available in all areas.

att.com/global

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circumstances. And where are these experts when I feel exhausted at home?

How to explain my general habit of working in the middle of the night, eating at the wrong hours and dreaming all day about naps? With 24/7 media overstimulation coming at me from every corner of the planet, do I really need a jet to throw me off my sleep schedule? Trust me, you can forget what day it is even without a passport.

And why do we insist on blaming the fl ying itself? Sit me upright in an easy chair for 13 hours, replay the Bourne trilogy three times, ply me with gin-and-tonics and let me doze off with my chin tucked into my clavicle…. I’m pretty sure I’d wake up feeling weird without ever leaving my living room.

The main thing, though, is this: Tokyo is really far away from New York. Thousands-and-thousands-of-miles far away. Around-the-bend, other-side-of-the-world far away. And

when I get there—when I fi nally arrive and somehow restlessly fumble my way out of Narita and into that big, overwhelming city—I experience the rush of displacement all over again.

Tokyo is thrillingly, exhaustingly, wonderfully foreign to my everyday life. Sure, part of the reason I’m at Tsukiji market at 5 a.m. on my second day there, watching men cut up giant tuna and looking forward to my beer

and sushi breakfast, is because my body just won’t let me sleep. But it’s just as true to say I’m awake because I’m so excited to be here. Giant tuna! Homicidal motorized carts speeding everywhere! Beer with breakfast!

I say, enough with the whining: It’s time to give jet lag a second look. Yes, it’s sometimes inconvenient to feel grouchy or lost or incoherent, but that lost feeling is a signifi cant part of travel, a reminder that distance is real, that miles aren’t just something we tally up in our

frequent-fl ier accounts. Sitting at home at the computer, soaking up the news from a TV, it’s easy to believe that the world is small. But it doesn’t feel small when you’re out in it. This, it seems to me, is one of the profound gifts of being alive now: the ability to get up and go everywhere, to experience the world in a kind of rush that previous generations couldn’t have dreamed of. We should savor that rush, take it in the way a dog sticks his head out a car window and feels the wind in his face. A sense of dislocation comes with the territory. Indeed, it’s part of the fun.

I’d go so far as to say that an essential component of my love for Tokyo is the simple fact that I always feel so gloriously messed up and out of my element when I’m there. The world is big, and frankly, it should wear us out to try taking it all in. We should be righteously freaked out by all the traveling we do. We should be dizzy with awe that these big planes deliver us to faraway places, and at the wonders that we fi nd there. And while I’m all for making it to meetings on time and not drooling in public, maybe we shouldn’t try so hard to fi x the unfi xable nature of living in an exhausting time.

56 diary

Jet lag is part of the fun. We should savor it the way a dog sticks his head out a car window and feels the wind in his face.


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Taking small doses of this natural sleep-inducing

hormone may help you fall asleep at the

proper time (or, depending on

what country you’ve fl own to, it may get

you arrested).

Not only can it make you happy, sunshine

can theoretically “reset” your body’s clock. It’s as easy as

going outside.

TIME BANDITSCan jet lag be “cured”? Probably not, but it seems as though everyone has a trick to mitigate its effects.

Stay hydrated by drinking plenty

of water and avoiding caffeine and

alcohol—which, to some of us, sort of defeats the

purpose of vacation.

Some New Age types insist that walking barefoot on the earth or

swimming in the ocean can help by “grounding your electromagnetic

system.”

It’s claimed that jet lag is less severe

on westward-bound trips. (And just imagine all the

frequent-fl ier miles you can get fl ying

from Chicago to New York via Tokyo.)

Some imaginative fl iers claim that

simply pretending they’re not on a plane lessens the problem.

WHETTING YOUR WHISTLE

GETTING IN TOUCH WITH NATURE

TRUE WEST MAKE BELIEVESUNSHINE ON YOUR SHOULDERS

MELATONIN

HEM_0909_Diary-JetLag.indd 2HEM_0909_Diary-JetLag.indd 2 06/08/2009 15:5006/08/2009 15:50

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CULTURE | SEPTEMBER 2009

I WAS IN TOKYO A couple of weeks ago. After clearing customs in Narita, I did what I normally do when I get to Tokyo. I did something really stupid.

It’s become a little ritual of mine, though I mix it up to keep myself guessing.

Sometimes I leave my wallet on an airport chair. Or I buy a ticket for the wrong train, heading away from the city.

This time, I got my exchange rate mixed up and tried to extract $15,000 from several wisely unwilling ATMs.

Luckily I never got the cash, or I’d probably have found a way to leave a fat wad of yen on a chair somewhere.Later, at dinner, as I was nodding off into a tumbler of Yamazaki whiskey, my friends said what people usually say to me in Tokyo and elsewhere in the world: “You haven’t adjusted yet. Your body is still on New York time. For you it’s yesterday.”

When you travel a lot, you get used to people always reminding you what time it is for you. As if everyone can peer inside your brain and read a little personal clock there that shows all the data about why exactly you’re feeling sluggish, the time of your last meal and which side of the bed you woke up on. And the diagnosis is always the same.

Driving the rental car the wrong way out of the airport? Jet lag! Wandering the streets hungry at 4 a.m.? Jet lag! See, it’s okay. The world understands why you’re lost, cranky, distracted or dyspeptic (or, as happens more often than we’d like to admit, all of the above). Your clock just needs resetting.

And I know the world is basically right. My readings are haywire, my compass is off , night is day. I’m either alert at the wrong time, or not at all. Scientists even have a nifty name for this condition, desynchronosis, which makes it sound like a medical disorder of some kind even if it’s simply a natural response to being suddenly plopped down far from home. We are all governed by circadian rhythm, or a 24-hour cycle that tells us it’s breakfast time in our home continent even though the sun is setting before us now. But I’m not quite ready to attribute the condition entirely to something as banal as my scrambled sense of time.

After all, anybody who’s seen me dance at a wedding knows my rhythm isn’t great under the best of

In Praise of Jet LagOf course it’s unsettling to feel out of sync with the

world around you, but instead of complaining about jet lag, maybe it’s time to wake up and smell the coffee.

BY ADAM SACHS // ILLUSTRATION BY CLARE MALLISON

55diary

HEM_0909_Diary-JetLag.indd 1HEM_0909_Diary-JetLag.indd 1 06/08/2009 15:5006/08/2009 15:50

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53

Rockthe ToteBY LAYLA SCHLACK

NAME • LAUREN BUSH, 25MISSION • Ending world hunger. In 2007, the model and presidential niece launched the FEED 1 Bag—a simple cotton and burlap sack—to raise money for the United Nations World Food Programme. (Each bag sold feeds one student for an entire school year.) This month, she’s launching three new products. The FEED 2 Kenya Bag—a more stylish model of the original, available at Bergdorf Goodman and feedprojects.org—feeds two children in Kenya for a school year. The FEED Health/MV Backpack (sold at Kenneth Cole) is made of recycled plastic nylon. For every backpack sold, another loaded with supplies goes to a Millennium Village community health worker in Uganda. Next up: the FEED/READ 3 Bag, at Barnes and Noble. “It’s in time for back-to-school,” Bush says. “We’re supporting the U.N. World Food Programme and Room to Read. For each bag you buy, three children get lunch and a local language textbook.”MOTIVATION • Serving as a U.N. World Food Programme ambassador while a student at Princeton, Bush went on a trip to Guatemala. “I live in New York, so it was only a few hours away, but there was so much malnutrition,” she says. “What I was really moved by was seeing these kids helped by the World Food Programme.” And why the bag? “It’s a real, measurable, tangible contribution,” she says, adding, “Not everyone can cut a huge check, but most of us can buy a bag here and there.”AND IN HER SPARE TIME? • She works on her clothing line, Lauren Pierce, and hangs out with B.F.F. Elizabeth Berkley of Saved by the Bell fame.

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This fashionista has charitable giving in the bag.

hero

“Not everyone can cut a huge check to make a donation, but most of us can buy

a bag here and there.”

HEM_0909_Hero.indd 1HEM_0909_Hero.indd 1 07/08/2009 10:2407/08/2009 10:24

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Americans are more likely than other nationalities to lose sleep because of stress at work, a survey by Philips has found.

Nearly a third of American managers blamed stressful work for their lack of sleep, followed by 27% of Germans, 24% of Britons, 20% of Japanese, and just 12% of Dutch managers.

The global survey found that 72% of them were not getting the recommended eight hours a night. The worsening global economy was cited as the major reason for poor sleep by 40% of respondents.

“People lose sleep either because they cannot sleep or because they are not setting aside enough time for sleep - both of which can happen because of work-related stress in the current economic environment,” said Dr David White, chief medical officer for Philips Home Healthcare Solutions.

“People simply need to take sleep much more seriously. Sleep is not optional – it is absolutely critical to people’s health,” said Dr White.

Respondents were also polled on their awareness of obstructive sleep apnea (OSA), a condition in which people repeatedly stop breathing during sleep: 66% of all respondents had heard of OSA.

The survey was undertaken by TNS during March 2009, polling 2,500 managers in the UK, Germany, USA, Japan and The Netherlands. As a health and well-being company – and leader in the sleep management market - Philips commissioned the survey to get an indication of peoples’ sleep habits and their awareness of the impact of sleep on health and quality of life. Philips offers sleep therapy products that are designed to encourage patients’ acceptance of OSA therapy through increased comfort. The end result is improved sleep and, ultimately, improved quality of life. Find out more at www.Philips.com/because.


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sports

distant cities to play the game they love. This draft is attended by thousands of angry fans, who drink beer and loudly boo the players who get picked. Usually, they are dressed in green and white, signifying an allegiance with a team called the New York Jets.

But what’s most troubling is the behavior of the league’s biggest stars. Last year, Plaxico Burress, one of football’s most gifted wide receivers, was caught wearing sweatpants to a nightclub. We’re not sure how you were raised, but we’ve never worn sweatpants to a nightclub. White polyester, silk shirts and gold chains, perhaps, but never sweatpants. Oh, and as if it couldn’t get any worse, there was something about Burress shooting himself in the leg with his own handgun. But that’s what you get for wearing sweatpants, dude.

Then let’s take the case of Brett Favre. He’s one of the all-time great NFL heroes—he’s won a Super Bowl, which is football’s equivalent of the Major League Lacrosse championship. But he doesn’t even know if he likes football anymore. Every summer, Favre vacillates about returning to the game like a guy debating a pelvic wax. Does he really detest football so?

Or how about the Dallas Cowboys? They’re one of the more recognizable teams in the NFL, even if they have to share a city with the Dallas Stars of the National Hockey League. They generate a fair amount of attention, some of it for their players’ private lives. Their quarterback, Tony Romo, dated the ex-wife of Nick Lachey, the co-owner of the Tacoma Rainiers minor league baseball franchise. Poor girl. Talk about a step down in the sports world.

But the news isn’t all bad. Football can be a highly entertaining sport, except when it’s played in Detroit.There are games on Sunday nights and Monday nights, and if you’re interested in getting divorced, you can watch all the contests on satellite TV. The NFL also has cheerleaders, who have all the same responsibilities as the New York Knicks City Dancers—except coaching a basketball team.

Still, we’ve got a few suggestions to improve the NFL and raise its profi le to another level. 1. LOSE THE AGGRESSIVE ATTITUDE. If you’ve spent any time following sports in this country, you know if American audiences can’t stand anything, it’s violence. Bench-clearing brawls, pro wrestling, episodes of The Hills…we can’t stand it. The NFL should cease its

celebration of hard-knock contact by encouraging something more humane. Firm handshakes? All-caps text messages? Extreme pouting? 2. PUT ANALYSTS ON THE FIELD. Look, the truth is that a lot of the NFL TV personalities are better known than the athletes themselves. So why not incorporate them into the action? Put Chris Berman at midfi eld on a barstool. Chris Collinsworth, dressed in a suit, running pass routes. John Madden just

retired, but see if he’d like to lie down in the end zone, as an obstacle. 3. RENAME EVERYONE. Ocho Cinco is on to something. He used to be named Chad Johnson. Boring! You’ve already forgotten Chad Johnson. But Ocho Cinco works beautifully. Let’s rename other stars. Tom Brady? Greg Brady. LaDainian Tomlinson? LaDainian Gaga. Romo? Tony Obama. Just try to

forget the Cowboys quarterback has the same last name as the president of the United States.4. OFFER WEEKLY HALFTIME SHOWS. If there’s one NFL event that everyone cares about, it’s clearly the halftime show at the Super Bowl. Bruce Springsteen, Tom Petty, Prince—what’s not to like? All-time legends playing selections of the greatest hits. So why not expand it? We’re sure that Bruce would love playing halftime at a Bengals-Rams game in October.5. UPGRADE TO THE EVEN-MORE-SUPER BOWL. This is nonnegotiable. We’ve got to make the Super Bowl better. Yes, we’ve had some classic ones lately—Pittsburgh’s thriller over Arizona, and the New York Giants’ shocker against the Patriots. But why not spice it up with another sporting event? Yes: a soccer game, played simultaneously on an adjacent fi eld. Think of the television ratings and water-cooler arguments.

We know that old viewing habits are hard to break, especially if your family is used to sitting down on the couch after Thanksgiving dinner and watching several hours of badminton. But we’ve got a soft spot for football, and we believe you, too, will enjoy this niche sport. Better yet, if you promise to watch, Favre promises to play next year. With Bruce, onstage, at the halftime show.

JASON GAY played exactly 10 seconds of high school football. His coach slapped him on his helmet, and he decided to run cross-country.

The games are Sunday and Monday nights, and if you’re interested in getting a divorce, you can watch all the contests on satellite TV.

Of the nearly 40,000 pro football players between 1920 (the NFL’s fi rst year) and 1984, there were never more than eight in any season who weighed over 300 poundsIn the 2006 season there were 570.


51

HEAVY DUTYThe NFL is a growing league

8

1920 1984 20081985

570

HEM_0909_Sports.indd 2HEM_0909_Sports.indd 2 07/08/2009 10:2807/08/2009 10:28

AS SUMMER TURNS TO FALL and America goes berserk for the Major League Lacrosse playoff s, the Vuelta a España bike race and the return of the Chinese Badminton Association—better known, of course, as the CBA—we’d like to suggest sharing a little love with another sports league, one that desperately needs your support.

The NFL. That acronym stands for National

Football League. The group has been around since 1920, when it launched as the American Professional Football Conference, before changing its name two years later. And you know what football is, right? No, it’s not soccer—that’s a common mistake in America, where every family huddles around the television watching soccer every night. Football is the game with the helmets

and oblong brown ball and the guy who calls himself Ocho Cinco. Yeah, you remember it. It’s on Sunday afternoons. That’s right, the sport that comes not long after Face the Nation with Bob Schieff er.

Football needs your help. It doesn’t have the glamour of badminton or the household names of lacrosse, like legendary attackman John Grant Jr., who won two consecutive MLL MVPs with the Rochester Rattlers. People don’t grow up following football teams the way they do European cycling squads, with children marching off to school wearing spandex outfi ts advertising their chosen teams, be they Rabobank, Silence-Lotto or our personal favorite, Liquigas.

Football is fi ghting for attention. It’s so unpopular, in fact, teams play only 16

regular season games a year. Basketball plays 82 and baseball a brisk 162. Fan interest is static. Take the case of the New England Patriots—they’re one of the best teams, with the quarterback who’s married to Gisele. Last year the Patriots drew 550,048 fans, fi lling 100 percent of the seats in their 68,756 seat stadium. But the previous year, they drew the exact same number. That, my friends, is known as zero growth.

There are other dispiriting signs.Each year, more and more football

followers are so dissatisfi ed with the real product the NFL puts out, they’re forced to create their own “fantasy” teams. Meanwhile, the NFL also runs an embarrassing sideshow each year called the “draft,” in which clean-cut college stars are selected by teams and forced against their will to travel to

Fantasy FootballThe NFL has dominated American professional sports

for so long, it’s almost impossible to imagine a world in which it struggles for attention. But we can try...

BY JASON GAY // ILLUSTRATION BY BARRY BLITT

50 sports


HEM_0909_Sports.indd 1HEM_0909_Sports.indd 1 07/08/2009 10:2807/08/2009 10:28

49

staff does a fi ne job running the place when the chef’s not around, he makes an appearance most evenings, assuming the role of disaff ected showman (his charisma will come in handy if the TV show he’s negotiating comes through). Even as he assists his crew, putting fi nal touches on dishes as they emerge from the kitchen, a gnawed-on cigar is rarely far from his lips. On a recent evening, he off ers color commentary as his 14-course tasting menu is served to VIP diners seated at the “chef’s table” (actually stools at a bar peering into the kitchen).

“This is my Chinese breakfast,” he explains as a miniature white bowl arrives fi lled with a delicious savory custard. “You have caviar, chicken congee, abalone. You’ll want to suck up all the caviar fi rst.” Pause for dramatic eff ect. “You won’t get seconds.”

JAY CHESHES has written for Saveur and Gourmet. A pleasant surprise is in store for him, according to his latest fortune cookie.

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served with crisped rice, a play on local specialty lap mei fun, a homespun winter favorite. And the chef’s sci-fi version of a Shanghai soup dumpling uses spherifi cation (a technique developed by culinary madman Ferran Adria) to form a chemically induced yolklike skin around bubbling pork broth—a dumpling without any dough.

Last year, in Michelin’s fi rst ever guide to the region, such dishes earned him two coveted stars.

“Alvin really only found success in his 40s,” says his partner in the restaurant, young fi nancier Vincent Kwok, who recently began scouting locations for a third Bo Innovation (a second is in the works in the south of France). “I want Alvin to focus on establishing himself globally,” he says. “Then the branded products will come, and the cookbook and maybe the restaurant in New York.”

When I manage to pry the chef away from his card game, he agrees to lead me on a tour of the local food market. A tangle of stalls a few blocks from his restaurant, Wanchai Market features Hong Kong’s most pristine produce along with seafood so fresh much of it is still wriggling.

Leung pauses periodically, cradling a bundle of mushrooms, running his fi ngers through a trough of dried Szechuan pepper, eyeing a hanging loin of glistening pork, but declines to wax poetic about the bounty. “All this nonsense about sourcing, it’s all hype,” he says. Unlike so many of his contemporaries, he’s not a fetishist for locally grown ingredients. “Just because you know where something came from and you say it’s organic, is it really the best?” he asks. “I don’t think so.” His food comes from trusted suppliers—his foie gras is French, his caviar Chinese—and that’s all that matters.

Leung was born in London to Hong Kong natives who fl ed the colony during the pro-Communist riots of the 1960s. While many chefs cite their mother’s home cooking as an inspiration, for

Leung it was a diff erent story. “I always say if my mother could cook I wouldn’t have needed to learn how to,” he says. “Her food was really awful, like instant noodles every day.”

After attending college in Canada, he moved back to Hong Kong to become a sound engineer (he still owns factories on the mainland that produce noise-proofi ng equipment). In his spare time, he indulged his passion for cooking, hosting extravagant dinner parties in his tricked-out home kitchen. These get-togethers quickly

became legendary among Hong Kong’s smart set, and Leung began visiting the world’s fi nest restaurants.

“I’ve been everywhere,” he says. “If you haven’t, how the heck can you create? I’m not like a Mozart.”

The leap from home hobbyist to culinary revolutionary began six years ago, on a whim. Leung had taken a stake in a friend’s underground restaurant, Bo InnoSeki, one of the unlicensed speakeasies that were all the rage in the

city at the time. The restaurant, named for a co-owner, was in dire straits.

“It was just after SARS,” Leung says. “Nobody was eating out.” One day the chef, who served kaiseki-style Japanese food, walked off the job.

“People started saying, ‘Wait a minute, why doesn’t Alvin cook?’” recalls Kwok. “It was mostly in jest. But then he started showing up. When I went to dine there, I was impressed.” Leung took to the challenge, quickly scrapping the Japanese concept in favor of the sort of food he’d been serving to his houseguests. Within a year, Bo Innovation was born.

The restaurant (now in its second incarnation, having relocated last year to spiffi er digs) is easy to spot. Just look for the giant mural of Leung’s sneering mug out front. Although the kitchen

48 food&drink

NOODLING AROUND Uni dan dan noodles with salmon roe; Leung in the kitchen; and the staff at work


SPOONSpoon mixture

into a solution of algin and water

MIXMix xiao long bao

broth with thickeners (Xantana and Gluco)

HEATRemove spheres and heat in oil

BUBBLICIOUS How to make “spherifi ed”

xiao long bao (soup dumplings)

1 32

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HONG KONG’S MOST buzz-worthy chef doesn’t spend much time in the kitchen. You’re more likely to fi nd Alvin Leung Jr. at his “unoffi cial offi ce”—a private cigar club in the city center—perusing contracts, fi elding phone calls and squeezing in the occasional meeting, in between taking his friends’ hard-earned cash. “Business is down,” he jokes when I catch up with him there one afternoon, huddled around a frenzied card game. “I’ve got to make the rent.”

The fi rst Chinese chef to fully embrace the avant-garde cooking techniques pioneered in Europe in the 1990s at places like Fat Duck in Britain and elBulli in Spain, Leung is an unlikely evangelist for 21st century Chinese cuisine. A crass, cigar-chomping bad boy with a Dee

Dee Ramone haircut, a dangling jade earring and the words “demon chef” emblazoned on his bicep in Chinese, the 48-year-old Leung—who has no actual culinary training—only found his true calling recently, after abandoning a career as a sound engineer. Four years ago he opened Bo Innovation, the fi rst

food&drink 47

restaurant in China to deconstruct the world’s most popular cuisine.

Although Leung has adopted the techniques of molecular gastronomy, the marriage of cutting-edge science and old-fashioned cooking that has been shaking up haute cuisine in the U.S. and Europe for the past decade, don’t pigeonhole him as a “molecular” chef.

“I don’t like to be labeled,” he complains. “I do touch on molecular stuff , and it’s fun, but you also have to

introduce comfort.”Leung prefers to describe

his food as “X-treme Chinese.” With their aperitif, his diners often receive miniature bites of Chinese-sausage ice cream frozen in liquid nitrogen and

GREAT LEAP FORWARD Bo Innovation; below, Leung’s Thousand-Year-Old Egg

in Ginger Cone

While some of us are still learning to use chopsticks and pronounce “General Tso,” Alvin Leung Jr. is giving

Chinese cuisine a high-tech upgrade. // BY JAY CHESHES

Wok on the Wild Side

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increasingly big business. And Zynga, the creator of FarmVille (and more than a dozen other games designed to be played on the iPhone and social networks) is shaping up to be a Silicon Valley colossus. Since becoming the top application developer on Facebook last year—with 50 million active monthly users—Zynga has earned as much as $100 million (the company prefers not to disclose the actual fi gure). Between the various available platforms, 15 million people play the top four Zynga games every day.

That’s a lot of microtransactions. And as the technology pushes social gaming beyond Facebook, Zynga, which already has a hammerlock on more than half the social network gaming market, is only going to get bigger.

The brains behind Zynga is a 43-year-old Harvard-educated entrepreneur named Mark Pincus, who launched the hit social networking site tribe.net in 2003. Whippet-thin, with a shaggy haircut, bushy eyebrows and permanent fi ve o’clock shadow, Pincus holds an ever-present herbal tea in his hands as he paces the corridors of Zynga’s headquarters in San Francisco’s Potrero Hill district. This refashioned potato-chip factory has the freewheeling aura of a dot-com company from the Digital Golden Age, complete with Segways, massages, foosball tables and free meals prepared daily by culinary academy–trained chefs.

Zynga’s games—which include Texas Hold’em Poker (the largest social gaming poker app on the planet), Pirates, YoVille and Scramble—are free to play, which explains their popularity. Mafi a Wars is the most outwardly exciting of them all—players start out as Mafi a stooges and advance by accruing weapons and whacking rivals. But no matter the game, after a user is hooked, he or she is then often persuaded to spend a dollar here and there on enhancements: a pistol, say, or a schooner. And those dollars add up.

“Microtransactions in a virtual economy represent the third business plan of the internet,” Pincus says, sitting in his airy offi ce. “Web 1.0 was all about e-commerce, banner ads and

low margins. Web 2.0 was considered the Google Search Economy with cost-per-click, but it was only a great business plan for Google. Now we’re in what I like to call ‘Web 3,’ where users pay for virtual goods and services, and everyone wins. High margins for all.”

Zynga isn’t the only gaming company reaping high margins from micropayments, and while a virtual pinky ring may sound frivolous, so do many of the goods off ered by Zynga’s competitors. In Pet Society, for instance, a game developed by Playfi sh, users can outfi t their free virtual pets with accessories like a hot tub ($1.70) or a chalkboard ($2.55). Remarkably, Playfi sh is forecast to pull in about $30 million this year. That’s a lot of imaginary chewtoys. Meanwhile, an ecosystem of companies is involved in each microtransaction: PayPal and Paymo handle the money, for instance, and companies such as Blockbuster insert ads and coupons.

Now Facebook, sensing an opportunity, is set to introduce “credits” for purchase that can be used in any Facebook apps to buy virtual goods. That’s a game changer—and it’s not the only one. Apple’s new OS 3 for the iPhone, which arrived this summer, will be a boon for companies such as Zynga. Whereas before you could download its iPhone apps for free, the phone didn’t

allow in-game microtransactions; OS 3 does. Want to purchase a new barn for your FarmVille farm? Go ahead. Nick Gibson, an analyst at Games Investor Consulting, says in 2008 the market for social networking games was about $90 million in North America and Europe; with the introduction of the OS 3 iPhone, he predicts the business will triple in 2009.

Pincus is even more bullish. “In the next eighteen months,” he says, “I want to see social gaming become a mainstream activity for the entire Western world.”

To that end, Zynga recently released two new entries: a restaurant game called Café and the breakout hit FarmVille, a nod to Pincus’ interest in sustainable foods. FarmVille isn’t exactly a riveting game. Oftentimes it’s quite literally as exciting as watching grass grow. But no matter how silly it sounds, FarmVille already has two million daily users.

Launched this summer, Café is a throwback to the popular Diner Dash, in which players run a virtual restaurant and expand by satisfying their customers. Combining that concept with a sort of interactive Top Chef, Café pits users’ restaurants against one another and allows participants to interact—hiring friends to work in their kitchens and trading ingredients.

According to Pincus, Zynga’s next frontier is charitable giving. In June, Zynga asked YoVille users to purchase $5 virtual dogs and cats from an in-game SPCA shelter. They made $40,000 in six weeks and donated the money to a real-world SPCA. “I love the idea that what players do on a fantasy level within our games can actually aff ect what happens in the real world. So if our players purchase virtual farmland and seeds for crops in FarmVille, we can send those proceeds to farmers in Guatemala,” says Pincus.

Still, when it comes to tending to the needs of a fl ock of peckish hens, most users would probably prefer to keep the action purely virtual.

A contributor to Slate, The New York Times and Fast Company, DIANE MEHTA has lost 17 fi ghts in Mafi a Wars.

44 “ In the next eighteen months, social gaming will become a mainstream activity for the entire Western world.”


Cost of a hen in FarmVille:

400 coins (or less than $1)

Cost of a hen in real life: $2.32 at

purelypoultry.com

PLAYING CHICKENFew things bring as much joy as raising

hens—except perhaps virtual hens, which you don’t have to clean up after.

REALITYVIRTUAL

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HEM_0909_Zynga.indd 2HEM_0909_Zynga.indd 2 07/08/2009 11:0207/08/2009 11:02

YOUR NEW NEIGHBOR “Steph” just sent you some cherries and avocados, which will fi t nicely in a tidy little plot next to your eggplants. You’ve still got your heart set on growing oranges, but unless another friend decides to throw some extra inventory your way, they’re still well beyond your means. That is, unless

you cheat by enhancing your virtual spending power with actual cash.

After all, this isn’t a real farm, but a wildly popular social networking game called FarmVille, which is played on Facebook around the world. While the game itself is free to play, real cash can go a long way. Ten bucks

gets you 15,800 “coins,” enough for a toolshed, some corn, a bunch of apple trees, a chicken and those oranges. Want to invest? Buy a cow with the leftover change, milk it and earn even more coins.

In the wild new frontier of online social gaming, such microtransactions are

42 industry


Cheap ThrillsOnline game company Zynga based its

business on social networking and microntransactions. Now it’s reaping the rewards.

BY DIANE MEHTA // ILLUSTRATION BY JOHN HERSEY

HEM_0909_Zynga.indd 1HEM_0909_Zynga.indd 1 07/08/2009 11:0107/08/2009 11:01

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40

FEW NEW YORKERS took much notice of the failed 2002 proposal by the Harlem Fifth Avenue Block Association that Collyer Brothers Park, a tiny uptown parcel, be renamed Reading Tree Park. But to E.L. Doctorow, author of Ragtime, Billy Bathgate and The March, among other historically minded novels, the bid to bury one of the city’s more fascinating chapters felt like an aff ront.

A pair of notorious hermits from a well-to-do family, the magnifi cently disheveled Homer and Langley Collyer occupied a stately Fifth Avenue brownstone fi lled with auto parts, pianos and other refuse scavenged from the city’s streets. Battling local authorities, bill collectors and neighbors, they became objects of intense tabloid fascination before being found dead in 1947. (Langley’s demise was especially poignant: He was felled by a booby trap of his own devising and buried under toppled bales of his newspapers.)

“They achieved a kind of mythic status,” Doctorow says of the subjects of his latest novel, Homer & Langley, sitting in his offi ce overlooking Upper Sag Harbor Cove. “They became part of the folklore of the city.” The author

bristles at the view of the brothers as “pack rats,” preferring to see them as “aggregators—sort of like Google.” In some ways, they resemble Doctorow himself, who has been known to make good literary use of scraps of history the rest of us

overlook. “You do pick things up along the way and store them in your mind,” he says, admitting his home offi ce could use tidying up. “My wife has compared me to the Collyers,” he says with a sigh.

In Doctorow’s fi ction, however, there’s nary a word out of place. Homer & Langleyis sparse and poetic, at times conjuring whole eras—the Jazz Age, the late ’60s—

in just a few haunting passages. One of the book’s great pleasures is the way it casts a strange new light on American social history by essentially viewing it through the slats of the brothers’ shuttered windows. “I think of it as a road novel in which they don’t actually leave the house,” he says. “Instead, the world comes to them.”

Naturally, the author has taken a few liberties. For one, he’s extended the Collyers’ lives by several decades. “I’ve given them longevity,” he jokes, “and they didn’t even have to go on a diet!” He’s also relocated their townhouse a good mile south on Fifth Avenue, to the Upper East Side. The brothers’ former neighbors would surely approve.

Hemispheres editor in chief AARON GELL really ought to straighten up his workspace.

The notorious Collyer brothers lived like hermits in a Fifth Avenue brownstone packed to the rafters with newspapers and junk. With

Homer & Langley, novelist E.L. Doctorow pays the boys a visit. // BY AARON GELL

Collective Memory

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A Scottish medical student delves into the

intellectual ferment in post-Revolutionary

Paris in Rebecca Stott’s provocative

new novel, a swirl of history, philosophy, evolutionary science

and intrigue, with a bit of romance thrown

into the mix.

A couple years ago, New York–based

author Colin Beavan and his family

resolved to reduce their environmental footprint—to zero. In his wryly funny new memoir, he explains how they did it. (Hint No. 1: no toilet paper.)

Global warming got you down? Cheer

up! It could be much, much worse—at

least if the brilliant Margaret Atwood’s

latest dystopian yarn is any indication. Think humanity in

peril, genetic mutants running amok and

other treats.

The Coral Thief No Impact Man The Year of the FloodALSO THIS MONTHWhat else to read on the go in September


print

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38

JOEL MCHALE FANS, it’s your lucky day. This fall, the longtime host of E!’s The Soup, the smart and scathing weekly dissection of reality TV, is taking on a new gig: leading man in NBC’s big-hearted single-camera comedy Community, about Jeff Winger, a fast-talking lawyer forced to return to community college. (“I thought you had a bachelor’s degree from Columbia,” an old client says. “And now I need to get one from America,” Jeff replies.) Needless to say, McHale’s days of being mistaken for Ryan Seacrest are over.

“I fi gure that at any moment I’m going to be struck by lightning while choking on a chicken bone, and it’ll all stop,” McHale says of the good fortune that now has him starring in two television shows simultaneously (he is also appearing in October’s Steven Soderbergh farce The Informant!). Certainly, the schedule will be punishing: The comedian works on jokes for The Soup while on set for Community and tapes his E! show late on

Thursday night. The worst part of that hectic schedule may be the way it’s cut into his TV-watching time. “That’s sad,” he says. “But then again, some people don’t consider missing The Bachelor tragic. They see it as liberating and cause for celebration.”

With Community, his new NBC sitcom, funnyman Joel McHale of E!’s The Soup finally makes the grade. // BY WILLA PASKIN

A Shot of Wry

Community, an ensemble show about a diverse group of back-to-schoolers who meet, bicker and bond in an adult-ed Spanish class, has NBC’s plum Thursday night comedy spot, right after The Offi ce. The show costars Chevy Chase as a politically incorrect student (sample line: “Sexually harassing you? That makes no sense to me. Why would I harass someone who turns me on?”).

“If you had told me ten years ago that I would be doing a television show with Chevy Chase I would have been like, alright, what kind of drug are you on?” McHale says, “because that seems very unlikely.” To cope with the strangeness, McHale likes to pepper his costar with lines from Fletch, to which Chase happily replies in character.

Asked what he would study if he wound up going back to college, McHale, a husband and father of two, ponders for second before suggesting gymnastics. “I should probably have skipped college,” confesses the actor, who holds an MFA in acting from the University of Washington. “I kind of dillydallied around when I was there.” Somehow, we don’t doubt it. But he seems to have made something of himself after all.

WILLA PASKIN is the features editor for BlackBook magazine.

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Ken Burns partners with PBS for an epic six-parter exploring National Parks from Death Valley to the Grand Canyon. With tales of tree-huggers

and wily opportunists, Burns pulls off a coup—he makes parks exciting.

Debuts September 27.

Decadent and incisive, this documentary

showcases the orange-tinted fashion god’s

lavish lifestyle—jet-setting around with

his posse of pugs—and the attention to detail that’s made

him a legend. On DVD this month. valentinomovie.com

The best primetime soap in the history

of drama (sorry, Aeschylus) is back,

with some spawn of the old cast mingling

with Hollywood vixens and twentysomethings.

We’d really like to resist it, but then we

said that about the original, too.

Premieres September 8.

The National Parks: America’s Best Idea

Melrose Place Valentino: The Last Emperor

vision

What else to watch on the go in September

ALSO THIS MONTH

HEM_0909_Vision.indd 1HEM_0909_Vision.indd 1 07/08/2009 10:5707/08/2009 10:57


THE IDEA OF RECORDING an album of duets with Scarlett Johansson came to Pete Yorn like a bolt of lightning. It happened during an afternoon nap and started with crooner Serge Gainsbourg and Brigitte Bardot. “The image I had in my head of Bardot brought Scarlett to mind,” he says. This was back in the spring of 2006, and Yorn didn’t know that Johansson was already working on her own album—Anywhere I Lay My Head, a collection of Tom Waits covers.

For the actress, it sounded like a fi ne idea. “He said, ‘Hey, I had this crazy dream that we made an album. Do you want to record one with me?’” she recalls. “And I said, ‘Sure, why not?’”Yorn’s dream is realized with Break Up, a graceful collection of nine winsome, woozy retro-pop duets that muse on variations of romantic disentanglement. The ethereal “Someday” is dirgelike and bittersweet, with a haunting banjo refrain. “Relator” uses a honky-tonk guitar line and folksy verse-trading, evoking Lee Hazlewood and Nancy Sinatra at their contentious best with its sour-grapes chorus: “You don’t relate to me, little girl.”

“We wanted to capture the unspoken conversation between two people when they break up—the frustration you feel when you know the relationship’s not going anywhere, but you can’t let go,” says Johansson, who last year married hunky actor Ryan Reynolds. “We are really speaking to each other through the songs.”

ScarJo brings the same authentic cool to her singing as she does to her

fi lm roles. At times, her aloof delivery echoes Nico, the doomed chanteuse of the Velvet Underground. Break Up is an ideal showcase for Johansson’s voice—a smoky rasp she’s had since she was a girl. “I wanted to be a Broadway kid, so I used to sing a lot of Gershwin,” she says.

“I was listening to our album the other day for the fi rst time in a while,” says Yorn, “and I remember thinking, ‘Did we put an old-timey eff ect on her

37

voice later?’ But that’s just the way she sounds naturally, which is very bizarre.”

“Even as a kid, I had a deep voice,” Johansson says. “Everyone would ask me if I had a cold, and I’d say, ‘No, I just sound like this.’ I wasn’t able to sing anything from Annie, but I could belt out a good Ethel Merman.”

JENNY ELISCU is a contributing editor at Rolling Stone.

sound

Lately, PJ has become a steady touring act. But

their fi rst release in three years is a raucous, defi ant declaration that the boys from Seattle still have studio chops. As Eddie Vedder sings on “The Fixer”: “Yeah,

yeah, yeah, yeah!”

Alex Chilton’s beloved and infl uential 1970s power-pop act gets

a lavish box-set treatment. Highlights

of the unmissable four-disc set are too numerous to name and are manifestly,

unfailingly big.

Adored by everyone from Kurt Cobain to

Beck, the legendary São Paulo ensemble, which melded British invasion sounds with bossa nova, releases its fi rst album in 35 years. As hoped, it’s beautiful and bizarre in

equal measure.

Pearl JamBACKSPACER

Big StarKEEP AN EYE ON THE SKY

Os MutantesHAIH OR AMORTECEDOR

ALSO THIS MONTH

What else to listen to on the go in September

Hollywood honey Scarlett Johansson and songwriter Pete Yorn open up about

Break Up, their new album of smoky, love-gone-wrong songs.// BY JENNY ELISCU

Scarlett Fever

ALSO THIS MONTH

HEM_0909_Sound.indd 1HEM_0909_Sound.indd 1 07/08/2009 10:2707/08/2009 10:27

Palm Tree Pendantwith Diamonds

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BIG ISLAND OF HAWAII: Kona Marketplace Kings’ Shops Hilton Waikoloa VillageNORWEGIAN CRUISE LINES: Pride of America

BOSTON: Natick Collection Northshore Mall CHICAGO: Oakbrook Center Woodfield Mall DALLAS: NorthPark CenterDENVER: Cherry Creek Shopping Center LOS ANGELES: Glendale Galleria Northridge Fashion Center

ORLANDO: The Mall at Millenia PHILADELPHIA: The Plaza at King of Prussia PLEASANTON: Stoneridge MallPORTLAND: Washington Square SAN DIEGO: Fashion Valley Horton Plaza SAN FRANCISCO: Pier 39 SAN JOSE: Valley Fair

SEATTLE: Bellevue Square WASHINGTON, D.C.: Tysons Corner Center

No.25330 Na Hoku.indd 1No.25330 Na Hoku.indd 1 7/5/09 14:33:237/5/09 14:33:23


35

UncommonScents

In the 1970s, gasoline wasn’t the only precious fl uid Americans lined up to buy. Now Halston’s beloved signature scent is

making a comeback. // BY SARAH HORNE

IN THE DREARIEST HOURS of the 1970s, when oil prices were as high as the hemlines, Halston’s shirt dress made him the ultimate American sportswear designer. It was the embodiment of minimalism, but with a sexy wink—equal parts Jackie Kennedy and Bianca Jagger. Halston defi ned ’70s fashion in the same way that Andy Warhol (a friend of the designer’s) epitomized the art world, and his self-titled fragrance became the second-best-selling of all time.

In 1984, six years before his death, Roy Halston Frowick lost the right to his name—and his legacy. Money men swooped in to divide the spoils, resulting in an endless string of déclassé licensing deals. An unlikely hero arrived in the person of movie mogul Harvey Weinstein, who acquired the brand in 2007,

leading to hopes that it would once again attire moneyed beauties and lend bankable stars that cool, decadent whiff of Studio 54.

Since its relaunch, Halston has been quietly gaining momentum. When the Spring 2010 collection debuts this month in New York under the creative direction of Marios Schwab, the front row will get a preview of Pure Metallic, Halston’s revamped fragrances for men and women, in platinum-fi nished versions of the bottles originally created by jewelry designer Elsa Peretti. And just like in the ’70s, a dab at the neck may be just the thing to stave off recession fatigue.

SARAH HORNE is a lover of all things fashion—except for the romper fad.PH

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style

FASHION PLAY Halston and Elsa Peretti’s perfume bottles

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33

DIRECTIONS | SEPTEMBER 2009P

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“WE REALLY LIKE GOING down to Mexico, the

Caribbean side. My husband, Jerry O'Connell, and I have gone to Playa del Carmen

four or fi ve times. It’s magical. We love the Latin

culture. I don’t want to reveal the place we stay, because it's so tiny and private, and

I don’t want it to become overrun. The fi rst time, we

went for three days, and we just totally fell for it.

“Now we have six-month-old twins, Dolly Rebecca Rose and Charlie Tamara Tulip,

so travel is tough. I have a lot of family in Holland, so

we'd love to take them there soon, but it's basically just been road trips since they

were born. We’ve taken them on one plane ride so

far. Hopefully they’ll be old enough to hang out on the beach in Mexico soon.”

REBECCA ROMIJN stars in Eastwick, premiering this

month on ABC.

The Places I Go:

Rebecca Romijn

whereabouts

HEM_0909_whereabouts.indd 1HEM_0909_whereabouts.indd 1 07/08/2009 10:5607/08/2009 10:56

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No.24992 USB.indd 1No.24992 USB.indd 1 05/08/2009 10:3205/08/2009 10:32

30

Enter the city with a walk under the Gateway Arch (gatewayarch.com). Wow, it’s big. No time to climb to the top, but poke your head in the Museum of Westward Expansion and see if you can tell the difference between Lewis and Clark. ( 0:25 )

Step outside and—wait, is that a casino over there? Yes, it’s the Lumière Place (999 N. 2nd St., lumiereplace.com). Stop in for some fl eet-footed high-class shopping, and on the way out, slap a $20 on black. ( 1:10 )

Collect your winnings and ask a cabbie to take you past the Old Cathedral, the fi rst west of the Mississippi; the Old Courthouse, where the Dred Scott case was tried; and the new Busch Stadium, where the honorable Albert Pujols presides. ( 1:16 )

Hop out at the Schlafl y Tap Room (2100 Locust St., schlafl y.com), the state’s fi rst brewpub and now St. Louis’ largest locally owned brewery. Try the beer sampler and leave with a souvenir shirt heralding your support for the 21st Amendment (that’s the one that repealed Prohibition). ( 2:12 )

Grab another cab to Forest Park, home to spectacular fl ora, energetic fauna and a boatload of cultural institutions. Speaking of boats, stop by the newly renovated Boathouse (6101 Government Dr., boathouseforestpark.com), hop in a paddleboat and work off that stout. ( 3:05 )

Find your way to Delmar Loop (Delmar Blvd. between Kingsland and Des Peres aves., ucityloop.com) for a relaxing stroll down the St. Louis Walk of Fame. Step on local greats: Miles Davis, Maya Angelou, T.S. Eliot—and some not-quite-as-greats—bowling “legend” Dick Weber, rapper Nelly. ( 3:55 )

Forgot where you put your thrill? There it is—at Blueberry Hill (6504 Delmar Blvd., blueberryhill.com), where guitar legend Chuck Berry regularly performs in the Duck Room. Kneel and declare, “I am not worthy.” Then order “The Lou’s” favorite dish: toasted ravioli. ( 4:40 )

Finally, run across the street to Fitz’s Root Beer (6605 Delmar Blvd., fi tzsrootbeer.com), slap a bill on the soda fountain, tell them you have a plane to catch, and demand one of their magnifi cent root beer fl oats. While you’re waiting, watch the “jerks” bottle the delectable root beer, which is made right there on the premises. How refreshing. ( 5:00 )

HEM_0909_Whirlwind.indd 1HEM_0909_Whirlwind.indd 1 07/08/2009 10:5407/08/2009 10:54

All prices, packages and programming subject to change without notice. All DISH Network programming, and any other services that are provided, are subject to the terms and conditions of the promotional agreement and Commercial Customer Agreement. © 2009, DISH Network L.L.C. All rights reserved.

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No.26248 EchoStar.indd 1No.26248 EchoStar.indd 1 05/08/2009 10:3805/08/2009 10:38


28

1

3. FASHIONABLY PUNCTUAL President Obama knows what time it is: He sports a Jorg Gray 6500, originally designed for the Secret Service. $325 / jorggray.com

2. IN THE BAG Bodhi’s sleek and functional ostrich briefcase means no more having to bury your head in the sand.$2,688 / bodhibags.net

1. MADE IN THE SHADES Oliver Goldsmith’s designs from the 1940s through the ’70s, including the Audrey and the tortoiseshell Zodiac, are back. / $362 / olivergoldsmith.com

4. SCENT OF A MAN The new Coach for Men is fresh and leathery (what would you expect?) and was inspired by president Reed Krakoff’s travels around the world. $75 / coach.com

goods

5. THE WHEEL DEAL The three-gear Townie by Electra Bike boasts Flat Foot Technology for stability and comfort. Time to replace the car? $498 / electrabike.com

2

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HEM_0909_Goods.indd 2HEM_0909_Goods.indd 2 07/08/2009 10:2307/08/2009 10:23

LEICA DREAMD-Lux 4 Safari/ $995 / leica-camera.com

27

DIRECTIONS | SEPTEMBER 2009

The exalted German cameramaker Leica has been inventing new ways to snap beautiful pictures since 1923. Their latest offering, the limited-edition

digital compact D-Lux 4 Safari, is just the thing for travelers looking to stylishly capture wildebeests and giraffes. The 10.1-megapixel camera has a

24- to 60-millimeter zoom lens and a three-inch LCD display with Leica’s own color-matching, contrast and picture-defi ning systems, so you know right away exactly how good your pictures look. Just as important, though, is how

good you look when you're taking them.

Shutterbugs are buzzing about this slick, high-quality camera.BY LAYLA SCHLACK // PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN LAWTON

Snap Judgment

goods

HEM_0909_Goods.indd 1HEM_0909_Goods.indd 1 07/08/2009 10:2307/08/2009 10:23

No.24589 Philips.indd 1No.24589 Philips.indd 1 03/08/2009 11:4203/08/2009 11:42

Creating a New Vision for a New Tomorrow

Why did we create a global health enterprise?

We don’t bring together outstanding hospitals and physicians just to growbigger ... or run an innovative health plan just to try our hand in the insurance business … or take our expertise abroad just to say we are an international leader.

We do all this, and more, to realize a vision for transforming health care.One which brings together an integrated network of world-renownedproviders and puts the information they need at their fingertips … which positions our health plan as a front door, not a barrier, to gettingneeded care and staying healthy … which nurtures new companies, develops strategic business relationships with some of the world’s leading multinational corporations, and extends our expertise to international markets.

We are solving the problems of fragmentation in care delivery, managing costs, and hard-wiring quality, and in so doing we are forging a new model for health care and a new global industry, providing a 21st century platform for western Pennsylvania’s economic development.

No.26087 University of Pittsburgh.indd 1No.26087 University of Pittsburgh.indd 1 07/08/2009 11:4707/08/2009 11:47


CALENDAR SEPTEMBER

24

10-13SAN FRANCISCO // Watch yachts blow through the bay at the Rolex Big Boat Series, and be glad you’re on solid ground. regattanews.com

11-13ISLE OF WIGHT // With a name like Bestival, this zany music fest is bound to be good. Perhaps even the best. bestival.net

12-13LONDON // Celebrating bodies of water is always more fun than it sounds. Allow the Thames Festival to demonstrate. thamesfestival.org

15-20LOUISVILLE // Learn the delicate art of a bourbon distillery or, you know, just sip some at the Kentucky Bourbon Festival. kybourbonfestival.com

19-OCTOBER 14MUNICH // There’s more to Germany than lederhosen, like absolutely enormous pretzels. Never is that more clear than during Oktoberfest. oktoberfest.de

2-4AUSTIN // Yes, the Austin City Limits Music Festival is named after the PBS series. And no, Jim Lehrer will not be there. Pearl Jam will. aclfestival.com

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GOOD EVENING, VIETNAM // As tensions rose in Saigon in 1959, sanctuary-seeking journalists fl ocked to the Caravelle Hotel to nervously sip cocktails at the rooftop bar. Fifty years later, Saigon is Ho Chi Minh City and its streets are considerably calmer, but the Caravelle remains. To celebrate its golden anniversary, the hotel is knocking half off the price of rooms booked online through the end of the month. It won’t bring rates back to those of the Kennedy era, but it’ll leave you with enough to grab a drink on the roof. caravellehotel.com

PRIX-VIEW // Remember that racecar bed you had as a kid? You’d close your eyes and suddenly be rocketing down Monte Carlo streets at 220 miles per hour, leaving a hapless Mario Andretti in your dust. This month, you can experience some of that thrill again with Fullerton Hotel Singapore’s Grand Prix package. Guests will receive exclusive entry to the Fullerton’s trackside rooftop during the Singtel Singapore Grand Prix. There, they’ll have a bird’s-eye view of racers screaming around the hairpin Turn 13, all for the princely sum of $1,400 per night. Unfortunately, the beds don’t look like racecars here, but on the plus side, they’re much more relaxing. fullertonhotel.com

TOON TIME // When people hear the name Walt Disney, they’re more likely to think of mice, movies or amusement parks than the visionary who created those things. That may change once The Walt Disney Family Museum opens in San Francisco’s Presidio. Meant to lend insight into the iconic animator, the museum holds many of Disney’s early drawings and uses them to tell the story of a boy from Chicago who became one of the biggest names in show business—with the help of a large-eared rodent. disney.go.com

FREE RIDE // There’s no excuse not to be cultured—not after September 26. That’s when hundreds of museums across the country will fl ing open their doors for free as part of Smithsonian Museum Day. Your toughest decision won’t be whether to visit, but how many. smithsonianmag.com/museumday

HEM_0909_TravelNews.indd 2HEM_0909_TravelNews.indd 2 07/08/2009 10:4607/08/2009 10:46

WHERE TO STAY / WHAT TO SEE / WHEN TO GO


23

news

Roman HolidayThrough the end of the month, camera-toting tourists in Italy’s capital have the chance to take part in something usually reserved for the ghosts of slain gladiators: a nighttime stroll through the Colosseum. The after-hours tour will lead visitors through an exhibit on the Flavian dynasty, which erected the giant stone stadium almost 2,000 years ago. A couple blocks away, the Temple of Romulus is also providing a rare treat: It’s opening its doors. Usually closed to the public, the temple will allow visitors a peek at its eighth century frescoes. 060608.itP

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HEM_0909_TravelNews.indd 1HEM_0909_TravelNews.indd 1 07/08/2009 10:4607/08/2009 10:46

FOR A TOUGHWORLD™

TOUGHBOOK

Intel, the Intel logo, Centrino, Centrino Inside, Intel vPro and vPro Inside are trademarks of Intel Corporation inthe U.S. and other countries. Toughbook notebook PCs are covered by a 3-year limited warranty, parts and labor.To view the full text of the warranty, log on to panasonic.com/business/toughbook/support.asp. Please consultyour Panasonic representative prior to purchase. Panasonic is constantly enhancing product specifications andaccessories. Specifications subject to change without notice. (*CF-52EV, CF-52GF and CF-52GU, **CF-30K,***CF-F8EW are Intel® Centrino® 2 with vPro™ technology) ©2009 Panasonic Corporation of North America.All rights reserved. Wireless_H_PCS_FY09-1

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The four members of Alash Ensemble, a traditional throat-singing group from the Russian republic of Tuva, have seen a lot in their global travels. They’ve played a private concert for Vladimir Putin, recorded with banjo virtuoso Béla Fleck and appeared on Late Show with David Letterman. But nothing seems to have prepared them for a sight that greets them on their recent trip to New York: Williamsburg hipsters. “I tried to explain what they are, but I failed,” says Sean Quirk, Alash’s American-born manager and interpreter. “The Tuvans were like, ‘Are they a gang?’”

The ensemble is in Brooklyn to play a gig at Zebulon, a cozy bar off Bedford Avenue. During sound-check, Quirk, who sports granny glasses and a reddish ponytail, explains the nuances of xöömei, as throat-singing is known. By enhancing overtones present in ordinary vocalizations, a xöömei singer produces multiple pitches simultaneously. The eerie sounds are said to imitate nature as experienced on the Tuvan steppe: The low-pitched drone called kargyraa evokes the lowing of a yak, while sygyt, a shrill whistle, resembles the wailing of the wind.

A former bike messenger from Wisconsin, Quirk is the foremost Western practitioner of xöömei. In 2003, he moved to Tuva on a Fulbright fellowship, and he became a member of the national orchestra, married a local woman and started a family. Life in a former Soviet province infl uenced by the nomadic culture of nearby Mongolia has required some adjustment. “I had to learn little things, like never shake hands with somebody through a doorway,” he says, “and big things, like when I invited some people to my house for a drink and three days later they’re still there.”

As Quirk fi nishes speaking, band members appear onstage in silken costumes and take up their instruments, which resemble lutes topped by wooden horse heads. As they play to a packed house, Quirk passes a bucket around for donations. “Siberia’s a long way from here,” he says. —JEFF BERCOVICI

Sweet and Low

Brooklyn, New York

21

fi nale is a dining room with a grand piano. A wax fi gure of a young, glamorous Baker presides over a table set for 12. Photos on the piano include one of Saint-Exupéry on her wedding day at the château. “We destroyed the parquet,” she recalls with a laugh. “So much dancing!” “Josephine wouldn’t have minded,” someone says. —CAROLINE TIGER

Jalpa, Mexico

LET US BRAYOn a dusty soccer fi eld ringed by mountains and elephant-eared cacti, a small burro does a sort of striptease, its pajama pants slowly slipping off its hindquarters as it parades in front of 300 spectators huddled under tents, parasols and mesquite trees. A burro in pajamas is not a common sight in Mexico. But then, neither is

wrapping multicolored beads around stout necks, poking holes in straw hats to accommodate fl oppy ears and slipping stockings over spindly legs. Each child entering the pageant receives a diff erent bilingual book from a local bookstore; each burro gets a bushel of carrots and an award, such as Most Elegant, Best Tail and Least Stubborn. This year’s Best in Show prize—decided by audience applause—goes to third-grader Guadalupe Parades Anaya and his burro Gofi , who sports a fl oral skirt, a long braided wig, thick blue eyeshadow and black construction paper eyelashes that render its huge brown

eyes unimaginably soulful. Guadalupe is awarded a pair of walkie-talkies; Gofi gets braying rights.

After the pageant, the locals treat visitors to a meal of gorditas, carnitas, enchiladas and chicharones. “This is the best,” says Larry Castriotta, an American realtor who, like the other guests, paid $28 to attend. “The burros are hysterical.”

Though she didn’t win, fourth-grader Leticia Paredes Mendoza smiles broadly as she pulls her bridal-clad burro toward the mariachi band. “I love having all these people in our town. It’s like the biggest wedding ever.” —JEANNIE RALSTON

one in a wedding dress. Nor one in black go-go boots.

Which is why fans turn up each year in the poor pueblo of Jalpa, just outside San Miguel de Allende, for the annual Burro Festival.

“Burros are such an integral part of campo life in Mexico,” notes Sara Tylosky, codirector of FINO, a local nonprofi t, as she giggles at a reluctant pageant participant that has to be pushed across the fi eld. FINO sponsors the event to raise money for the classes in English and leadership it off ers the children of Jalpa. “A few years ago, one of our volunteers saw Best in Show”—the dog show mockumentary—“and thought it would be fun to have a contest with kids and their dressed-up burros.”

This year, 20 children have given their family beasts a new burden of sorts,

HEM_0909_Dispatches.indd 3HEM_0909_Dispatches.indd 3 06/08/2009 15:5106/08/2009 15:51


dispatches

One warm summer morning on a quiet street in East Berlin, a tall, bespectacled Russian muralist named Dmitri Vrubel stands in front of a section of the Berlin Wall, surveying an expanse of fresh whitewash. He’s

here to repaint a famed piece of graffi ti that has graced this stretch of concrete for years. Around him stand a handful of fellow artists who, like him, decorated the once-forbidden east side of the wall in the autumn of 1989, during the German reunifi cation. They are part of a preservationist movement seeking to repair a structure they once cursed.

Since the fi rst days of Reunifi cation, which became offi cial 19 years ago next month, the Berlin Wall has been systematically dismantled by a euphoric populace, not to mention hammer-wielding tourists and souvenir collectors. Chunks of the graffi ti-covered concrete turned up in museums, private art collections and on eBay.

A few sections of this 96-mile-long symbol of totalitarian brutality remain, however. And now Vrubel and 117 other artists, known as the Artists Initiative East Side Gallery, have taken up the task of repairing one such section, which featured Vrubel’s most famous work, now an emblem of the fall of the Soviet Empire. Called the “Bruderkuss,” it depicted bushy-browed Soviet Premier Leonid Brezhnev planting a Communist smooch on the lips of his East German counterpart, Erich Honecker. For years, teenagers wore T-shirts featuring the “brother kiss” and tacked it to dorm room walls, even as the original artwork faded and peeled.

They’ve begun repairs just in time, says Kani Alavi, an Iranian-born artist who heads the Initiative. “If the city hadn’t fi nally agreed to do something,” he says, “the wall would have just fallen over.” —RACHEL NOLAN

Off the WallBerlin

20

Périgord, France

SIREN SONGAs birthday gifts go, the Château des Milandes was pretty sweet. Though a fi xer-upper, the 15th century pile on a hillside in southwest France, which Angélique de Saint-Exupéry’s parents bestowed upon her when she turned 25, had real promise. In the eight years since, she has planted 4,000 box hedges, replaced sections of the roof and made the interior over into a museum celebrating the legacy of chanteuse Josephine Baker—

known in France as simply La Baker—who lived here from 1947 to 1969. The château is where the performer located her “World Village.” Before Madonna or Angelina or even Mia Farrow, Baker became a tabloid sensation by adopting a “rainbow tribe” of 12 children, each of a diff erent nationality. On a balmy morning in June, 41 years after Baker lost the deed to the property and vowed never again to sing in France, Saint-Exupéry regales a group of visitors with tales of the diva’s life (admission to the property runs eight euros), as an older man lingers nearby. This turns out to be Akio Bouillon, Baker’s eldest son, a Korean orphan adopted in 1954. Bouillon turns up randomly a few times a year, just to chat with visitors. He prefers not to enter, however, because the memories of times that were at fi rst wonderful and then not so good are simply too intense. Inside, visitors move through rooms displaying Baker’s sparkly frocks, her scandalous banana skirt and her famous bathroom, inspired by a Lanvin perfume bottle. A few of them peer closely at a photo of Baker at Martin Luther King’s 1963 March on Washington. They follow Saint-Exupéry into the kitchen, where a penniless Baker barricaded herself in a futile attempt to avoid eviction, an incident Bouillon, 16 at the time, prefers not to relive. “We used to end the tour here,” says Saint-Exupéry, “but it was too sad.” Now the

youngest and fastest ballhawk—streaks by and snags the ball in midair. All’s fair in the world of the ballhawk. The fans looking down from the bleachers above roar at Davison’s athleticism.

As the ecstatic crowd pours out of Wrigley (the Cubs, who are fl irting with .500 ball, won 9–5), two middle-aged guys walk up to Davison and ask where the ball landed. “It didn’t land,” he responds proudly. “I caught it.” —ROD O’CONNOR



NOTES FROM ALL OVER

“SOONER OR LATER, somebody’s gonna pull one to left-center,” predicts Rich Buhrke, a wiry 63-year-old in a Chicago Cubs cap. He grabs his baseball glove and jogs back to his preferred spot near the corner of West Waveland and North Kenmore avenues, just outside the walls of Wrigley Field, and waits for a home run to sail over the red brick cornice above.

Buhrke has been roaming Wrigley’s shadows as a “ballhawk” for 50 straight seasons, one of a rotating cast of 10 or so characters who chase balls that clear the bleachers, something that seems to happen less and less often.

“It’s not the team philosophy to hit the three-run homer anymore,” laments the mustachioed Moe Mullins, 58, who started ballhawking at the age of eight and has a collection of more than 5,200 baseballs. His usual spot is between two oak trees on Waveland. “Your Sosas and McGwires are gone. And it’s a shame.”

Ballhawks arrange their work shifts around games and study weather forecasts for hints on wind speed and direction. In exchange, they tend to acquire amazing collections of memorabilia. Buhrke’s stash includes a ball hit by Willie Mays, and Mullins sold a Sammy Sosa homer on eBay for, well, a lot.

So far tonight’s game is a throwback to power: six home runs, including a fourth-inning grand slam to left-center and onward to West Waveland. It fl oats near Mullins’ oak trees, but Dave Davison—the

dispatches

Backstreet Ballers

Chicago

To fi nd the most dedicated Chicago Cubs fans, you have to leave the stadium.

ILLUSTRATIONS BY GRAHAM ROUMIEU

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00

STILL WATERS // Cypress trees draped in Spanish moss frame a fisherman on a still Texas morning.

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16 wish you were here

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SHAWN JOHNSON would love to see Chicago selected as host city of the 2016 Olympic and Paralympic Games. For one, the charismatic 17-year-old gymnast knows a little something about the Olympic Games—she brought home gold and silver medals for the U.S. Olympic Team in 2008 in Beijing.

And as a native of the U.S. Midwest—Shawn’s hometown of Des Moines, Iowa, is just a hop, skip and a backfl ip from Chicago—seeing the games in the Windy City “would be the greatest thing ever.”

United Airlines shares Shawn’s enthusiasm for the Olympic and Paralympic Games and, like Shawn, is hoping Chicago is selected to host the 2016 Games. Chicago’s bid has been widely supported by the region’s business community, nonprofi ts, elected offi cials, athletes and—perhaps most importantly—by Olympics fans across the country. As Chicago’s hometown carrier, United has played an important role in the city’s bid for two years, providing transportation around the world for Chicago 2016. And United will proudly fl y the organization to Copenhagen, Denmark, for the October 2 announcement of the selection.

United has served as the offi cial airline of the U.S. Olympic Team for three decades. For United employees—from customer service agents and ramp workers at dozens of airports to fl ight attendants on board and pilots in command—fl ying the U.S. Olympic Team is a tremendous source of pride. For a specialized group of reservations sales agents, staffi ng United’s dedicated Olympic Desk has been a unique privilege, enabling them to get to know U.S. Olympic Committee employees personally.

These are relationships that—to United—are worth their weight in gold. Visit chicago2016.org for more information.

For the GoldUnited proudly supports the Olympics and U.S. Olympic Team


GOOD SPORTS

14 connections

See for yourself what a world-class city Chicago is. United and United Express touch down in the Windy City more than 500 times a day, with nonstop service from airports on four continents. And whether you’re visiting from the City that Never Sleeps, the City of Angels, the City of Brotherly Love or the City of Lights, stretch out in roomy comfort in United Economy Plus and enjoy up to fi ve inches of additional legroom.

If you’d like to be in Copenhagen on October 2 when the International Olympic Committee selects the site of the 2016 Olympic and Paralympic Games, United and our Star Alliance partners will get you there. Fly United to London, Frankfurt, Paris, Brussels or Amsterdam and connect seamlessly on SAS or Lufthansa into Copenhagen. God rejse! (That’s Danish for bon voyage!)

CUBS SCOUT Shawn Johnson throws the fi rst pitch at Wrigley Field.

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don’t see beyond that, a city slowly dies. I don’t lose sight of education or jobs or healthcare or public safety. But it’s also important to look ahead. Has the job of mayor changed in the last 20 years? When I was fi rst elected, it was very uncommon for mayors to travel. In the past ten years, as I see more of the world, I realize that we all are faced with the challenge and opportunity of living and working in a global economy. We no longer compete just with cities in our own countries for jobs, business and tourism, we compete with cities all over the world.What’s the biggest lesson you’ve learned during your time in offi ce? Always be willing to change. Nothing’s written in stone. How do you see Chicago’s chances against Rio de Janeiro, Tokyo and Madrid? This is

a tough competition. These are great global cities, in great countries, and their governments are supporting their bids fi nancially. In the U.S., that’s not the case. You have to raise private-sector money. So far no government money has been spent at all. That, to me, is amazing. That said, we have the full backing of the Obama administration. He supported us during his campaign, and that’s important because we represent the United States. It’s all part of changing the old image of America.How would the Olympics and Paralympics benefi t Chicago? Hosting the 2016 Games is a

historic opportunity. From the global attention we’ll receive, the economic growth and the investments we’ll make in our neighborhoods, our city could be transformed. It would also inspire young people around the world to participate in sports.What do you regard as the city’s top selling point? The people. And then our incredible architecture and green space. It’s a little gem. Until you

come here you don’t realize how beautiful it is. Are you risking your own political capital with this bid?Maybe, but if you don’t have any vision, what do you

stand for? You just worry about making a mistake all the time. Clearly it’s a big challenge in a recession. Everyone’s naturally skeptical. They’re worried. Unemployment is high. But you need to give people some form of hope. What advice do you have for other mayors who might want to lure the games? You need the business community and the nonprofi t community working with you, and public support. Beyond that, good planning is essential. We’re not going to build white elephants. For instance, our plans for the Olympic Stadium call for an 80,000-seat venue, but after the games it becomes a much smaller stadium and the additional seats get used in other stadiums and venues.

There’s a global trend toward urbanization. What challenges and opportunities does that pose? Over the next twenty-fi ve years, more and more people around the world will be moving into cities. The cities are where opportunity is, education, jobs. There are huge environmental issues that go with that, housing issues, public transportation. We have to be prepared. What Olympic event are you most looking forward to? Well, you look at the gymnasts and think, “What amazing athletes.” But then you see the swimmers. And the paralympians. They’re really all so amazing. People don’t always realize the discipline that they have and the sacrifi ces that athletes make in their lives to make it to the Olympic and Paralympic Games.Let’s assume Chicago’s bid is successful. What are the chances you’ll be watching as mayor? [Laughs] Well, this is bigger than Mayor Daley. It’s the combined vision of a lot of people. Younger people especially want this for Chicago. They have a real understanding and appreciation for how it can transform their city, shape the culture here and improve their lives.

voices

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AS “CHICAGO’S HOMETOWN AIRLINE®,” United is inextricably linked with the Windy City. In early August, our long history of working together, including United’s support of the modernization program at Chicago O’Hare International Airport, took another major step forward: We announced United will move its Operations Center to Willis Tower in the heart of downtown, creating a much-improved work environment for our 2,800 employees and bringing increased tax revenue to the city.

Subject to approval by Chicago City Council, this win-win move will fi ll 460,000 square feet of prime offi ce space, representing the largest relocation of jobs to Chicago in recent history and making United the largest private employer based in Chicago.

“Between this team of employees, those within our expansive airport operations at O’Hare, our customer contact center and those already based at the new world headquarters at The United Building, the people of United will be more than 13,000 strong within Chicago city limits,” said Glenn F. Tilton, United chairman and chief executive offi cer. “This represents a further deepening of our commitment to our world-class hometown.”

United in Chicago

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MAYOR RICHARD M. DALEY, the chief executive of the city of Chicago for 20 years now, has been known to hop on his mountain bike for the occasional spin around his South Loop neighborhood. But if he could be an Olympic athlete, he’d be a rower. “It’s a fascinating sport,” says the mayor, who has attended several Olympics. “I really appreciate the discipline, the emphasis on teamwork, the cadence, the need to understand the wind factor—all of it.” Not to mention the incredible view of his favorite city one can get from a seat in a four-man shell knifi ng through the waters of Lake Michigan. At 67, Daley isn’t apt to actually grab an oar any time soon, but after a near-marathon as Chicago’s mayor, he knows which way the wind is blowing in the so-called Windy City. And having been reelected in 2007 with 71 percent of the vote, he seems to have his constituents pulling together. As he awaits the International Olympic Committee’s October 2 verdict on Chicago’s highly touted bid to host the 2016 Games, Mayor Daley takes a few minutes to speak with Hemispheres about the Olympics, going green and Chicago’s future.

A century ago, urban planner Daniel Burnham laid out The Plan of Chicago, which shaped the city. Did his famous exhortation to “Make no little plans” infl uence your own vision? Burnham was right. You can’t limit your goals, or you’ll never be able to fulfi ll them. A great city can’t stand still. You respect the past and honor the present, but you’ve got to look to the future. Whether it’s reversing the Chicago River, keeping the lakefront open, holding the 1893 and 1933 World’s Fairs during tough economic times or creating Millennium Park and Northerly Island, we have never shied away from big plans. How do you keep your eye on the future when there are so many pressing concerns to deal with? It’s easy for mayors to get caught up in the day-to-day, but if you

Mayor Richard M. Daley has spent two decades positioning Chicago

to meet the challenges of the 21st century. Now, his biggest gamble yet,

the city’s bid for the 2016 Olympic and Paralympic Games, is heading for

the fi nish line. // BY AARON GELL

The Gold Rush

voices 11

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to send your bags ahead.

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Customize the way you fly at united.com/traveloptions.

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6 contributors


EDITOR IN CHIEF Aaron GellEXECUTIVE EDITOR Mike GuyASSOCIATE EDITORS Adam K. Raymond,Layla Schlack

ART DIRECTOR Rob HewittDESIGNER Ellie ClaymanPHOTO EDITOR Erin Giunta

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Jane Black, Jason Fine, Porter Fox, Jason Gay, Sarah Horne, Edward Lewine, Willa Paskin, Matt Thompson CONTRIBUTING ARTISTSClaire Benoist, Barry Blitt, Spencer Heyfron, John Lawton, Graham RoumieuEDITORIAL INTERNS Katie Gant, Tiffanie Green, Peter Koch, Ashley Venable PHOTO INTERN Valeria Suasnavas

GROUP EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Michael KeatingUS EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Orion Ray-JonesINK PUBLISHING, 68 Jay Street, Suite 315, Brooklyn, NY 11201TEL: +1 347-294-1220 FAX: +1 917-591-6247Hemispheres.ed@ink-publishing.comhemispheresmagazine.com

ONLINE TEAM Salah Lababidi, Martin Buhr, Andy Shaw

ADVERTISINGPUBLISHER Steve AndrewsSENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGERS Al Loise, Catherine Hanson, Cynthia Carns, Issac Ingram, Jonathan Ebert, Ryan Smith

REGIONAL REPRESENTATIVESNORTHEAST PJ Lucus TEL: +1 973-366-1368COLORADO Lauren GrilloTEL: +1 303-256-6986HAWAII Robert WiegandTEL: +1 808-587-8300

INTERNATIONAL REPRESENTATIVESCHINA/[email protected]: +852 3541 9890SE [email protected]: +65 6302 [email protected]: +44 20 7613 8796MIDDLE [email protected]: +44 20 7613 8798 PRODUCTION MANAGER Joe MasseyTEL: +1 678-553-8091PRODUCTION CONTROLLER Grace RiveraTEL: +1 678-553-8080 EXT 135

Ink Publishing (sales), Capital Building, 255 East Paces Ferry Road, Suite 400, Atlanta, GA 30305TEL: +1 888-864-1733 FAX: +1 917-591-6247INK PUBLISHINGCEO Jeffrey O’RourkeCOO Hugh GodsalPUBLISHING DIRECTOR Simon Leslie

HEMISPHERES is produced monthly by Ink Publishing. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without the prior written permission of the copyright holder. All prices and data are correct at the time of publication. Opinions expressed in HEMISPHERES are not necessarily those of the Publisher or United Airlines, and United Airlines does not accept any responsibility for advertising content. Any images are supplied at the owner’s risk. Any mention of United Airlines or the use of United Airlines logo by any advertiser in this publication does not imply endorsement of that company or its products or services by United Airlines.

HEMISPHERES

MARK HEALY The director of editorial projects at GQ, Healy has also written for The New York Times and T. An avid traveler, he says his favorite destination is “a place I haven’t been yet but will one day return to.” Of shopping at Uniqlo, the Japanese clothier he profi les on page 70, Healy notes, “I spend twenty minutes, tops, in their store, and it’s completely satisfying. I love the clothes and fi nd it amazing what they can deliver at such low cost.”

MARK ULRIKSEN In addition to being an accomplished dog-portraitist, Ulriksen has done illustrations for advertising agencies, book publishers and most major magazines in the U.S., including The New Yorker, to which he’s been a regular contributor since 1983. His latest assignment, this month’s Hemispheres cover, inspired him to go to Budapest. “I’ve never been,” he says, “but I’d like to get there soon.”

ROD O’CONNOR A lifelong Chicagoan and a regular Hemispheres contributor, O’Connor has written for ESPN the Magazine, The Believer, SPIN, Frommer’s Budget Travel, Chicago and Time Out Chicago. The die-hard White Sox fan stepped out of his comfort zone to write about the Cubs this month (page 19). “As a baseball fan, I can’t resist the Wrigley Field mystique.”

SARAH HORNE A senior editor at Page Six Magazine, Horne has already spent six perfect days with Hemispheres—the fi rst three in San Diego and then this month in Budapest (page 76). “It’s a city that immediately gets under your skin—in a good way,” she says. “Though you can’t help but suspect that Hungarians are reluctant to let you in on their secret.” She also writes for Elle, Allure, The Daily Beast, Fashion Week Daily and New York, among others.

JOSHUA LUTZ Usually drawn to “spaces right outside of cities—somewhere between urban and suburban,” Lutz photographed the northern New Jersey mire that’s home to Giants Stadium for his book, Meadowlands, which was recently named one of the Best Photography Books of 2008 by Photo District News. For Hemispheres, he shot Uniqlo (page 70), and “picked up a pair of pants before I left—for less than thirty dollars, of course.”

JENNY ELISCU A writer for Rolling Stone since 1999 who “can barely remember life before that,” Eliscu is also a DJ on Sirius XMU, an indie station. Her favorite thing about Break Up, by Scarlett Johannson and Pete Yorn (page 37), is that “it really works well as a complete thought,” she says. “I’ve got a soft spot for the cover of Chris Bell’s ‘I Am the Cosmos.’” She’s also excited about Up From Below by Edward Sharpe and the Magnetic Zeroes, “this incredible band from L.A.”

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Best coverage worldwide.

Best coverage claim based on global coverage of U.S. carriers. Activation of international service required. ©2009 AT&T Intellectual Property. Service provided by AT&T Mobility. All rights reserved. AT&T, the AT&T logo, and all other marks contained herein are trademarks of AT&T Intellectual Property and/or AT&T affiliated companies. All other marks contained herein are the property of their respective owners. Coverage not available in all areas.

att.com/globalMore phones that work in more than 215 countries, like China.

No.25445 AT&T.indd 1No.25445 AT&T.indd 1 03/08/2009 12:1003/08/2009 12:10

departments

COVER IMAGE Mark Ulriksen // markulriksen.com

6 Contributors 11 Voices With Chicago’s Olympic

bid under consideration, Mayor Richard Daley discusses the city’s future.

14 Connections United helps Team

USA go for the gold. 16 Wish You Were Here DISPATCHES 19 Notes From All Over Baseball’s

way-way outfi eld; Josephine Baker’s château; a prettiest-donkey contest; the Berlin Wall rebuilt; and throat singers serenade Brooklyn

DIRECTIONS23 News What to see, where to stay,

when to go

27 Goods Gizmos and gear 30 Whirlwind Five hours in St. Louis 33 Whereabouts Actress Rebecca

Romijn prefers to play on la playa. CULTURE35 Uncommon Scents Halston gets

haute again with a new signature fragrance. By Sarah Horne

37 Scarlett Fever Pete Yorn and Scarlett Johansson make sweet music together on Break Up. By Jenny Eliscu

40


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WRITE TO US: [email protected] MAGAZINE68 Jay St. Suite 315, Brooklyn, NY 11201

SUBSCRIBE TO HEMISPHERESFor a free subscription to our monthly eMag and to access recent issues, go to HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

38 A Shot of Wry The Soup's Joel McHale goes primetime on NBC. By Willa Paskin

40 Collective Memory

Author E.L. Doctorow on his latest novel, Homer & Langley By Aaron Gell

42 Cheap Thrills Online game

producer Zynga amasses a fortune, one dollar at a time. By Diane Mehta

47 Wok on the Wild Side Chinese food gets a molecular makeover in Hong Kong. By Jay Cheshes

50 Fantasy Football The NFL could use a little help boosting its profi le, don't you think? By Jason Gay

53 Hero Lauren Bush's FEED bags

are right on trend—and help kids, to boot. By Layla Schlack

55 In Praise of Jet Lag A frequent traveler shares his cure—embrace it and carry on. By Adam Sachs

59 “Shoes” In Cuba, footwear can be the stuff of dreams.By Luís Rafael Hernández

61 Artifact A souvenir from the fi eld

91 Featured Promotion:Investing in People

23 40

PLAY102 Movies, television and audio

programming 112 Route Maps and

Terminal Diagrams 124 Crossword, sudoku and quiz 128 Beverages & Food 130 In Transit Who’s sitting next

to you?

47

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Budapest is fl ourishing again, its grand buildings refaced, its potted streets once more lined with Belgian blocks. But don’t worry—the city’s rebirth hasn’t diminished its bohemian dreaminess. 3 PERFECT DAYS | P. 76

Sept.

THE WATCHMAN French watchmaker Richard Mille is bringing

timepieces up to speed, creating the most complex, the lightest and the most extravagant available. BY STEPHAN TALTYPHOTOGRAPHS BY STEEVE IUNCKER

THE EMPEROR HAS NEW CLOTHES After conquering the

Asian market, Japanese retail giant Uniqlo sets its colorful sights on the rest of the world. BY MARK HEALYPHOTOGRAPHS BY JOSHUA LUTZ

3 PERFECT DAYS: BUDAPEST The Hungarian city has an Old World feel and rich

history accented by raucous bars and trendy shops. No wonder its denizens are so protective of it.BY SARAH HORNE

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contents

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Fisherman’s Bastion in Budapest

YOUR COMPLIMENTARY COPY

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