hemming jeanswith designer styleby nancy minskyauthor of “denim revolution: dozens of ways to turn denim cast-offs into fashion must-havesremake cast-off jeans”http://21centurydressmakers.blogspot.com

Every pair of jeans, new or old, ends with a cuff, with distinctive denim details and characteristics. So, if jeans need to be shorted they should to be hemmed in a manner that is durable, invisible and does not change the style or look of the jeans.

The hemming technique on the following pages is designed especially for denim. It isnamed for your eyes only due to how it blends so seamlessly, that only the seamstress knows it’s there.

As you will discover, it is simple and easyto complete or, if you’re not a seamstress, then to explain, to the person who will shorten your jeans.

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for your eyes onlya technique to seamlessly shorten and hem your jeans

the jean dilemmaYou have a pair of jeans that have a special worn effect, and fit you perfectly in all ways, except – they are too long and need to be hemmed. Since you certainly don’t want to walk around with a glaringly “ohh, you shortened your jeans” look, you need a hemming technique that will blend seamlessly with the existing, worn cuff.

the cureThe hemming technique is easy, but different from how pants are usually hemmed. Just follow the easysteps and special notations to achieve a beautiful alteration.

the sewing materials- two sewing threads, one color that matches with the denim at the jean cuff on the outside and another color that matches the backside;- general sewing materials including: scissors, straight pins, sewing machine with a “denim sewing needle”, a pencil or tailor’s chalk, tape measure, ruler, iron, seam ripper.

step-by-step how-to-do-it- Press your jeans.

- Mark the new length and measure the excess. note: A common mistake is hemming jeans too short. Keep in mind that denim is cotton and it shrinks. It takes a few wash and dry cycles before they stop shrinking and the length stabilizes.

- (Photo on left) Cut the cuffs off,¾” above the cuff topstitchingdetail.

- Allowing for a ¾” seamallowance on the leg, calculate the excess (adding the cuff, and subtracting the seam allowances.) Then with a ruler and tailor’s chalk, mark the cutting line on the leg and cut off excess.

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- Thread your sewing machine, with the color of the right side in the needle, and the other color in the bobbin.

- With right side up, zigzag finish the raw edges on the cuff and the leg, twice around.

- Trim any dangly denim threads.

- Slide the cuff over the leg, align the cut edges together with right sides facing each other. Gently ease together so side seams are aligned and pin.

note: Sometimes due to the amount you have shortened your jeans or the curve of the shape of the leg, you may need to adjust the leg shape in order for it to fit smoothly into the cuff. If this is necessary, open the outer leg seam, pin to reshape it to fit the cuff, and re-stitch the side seam closed.

- (Photo on left) using a zipper foot, sewwith a straight stitch and 5/8’ seam allowance, just above the edge of the original cuff.

- Press seam, with seam allowance up.

- (Photo on left) with right side up, topstitch ¼” above the original cuff topstitching.

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(Above photo) a view of the clean finish of the inside.

You’re finished!