hot wire foam cutter

7/30/2019 Hot Wire Foam Cutter

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http://www.instructables.com/id/Hot-wire-foam-cutter/

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Hot wire foam cutterby flywoodkb on March 21, 2006

Table of Contents

Hot wire foam cutter ............................................................................................................

Intro: Hot wire foam cutter ....................................................................................................

Step 1: Parts ..............................................................................................................

Step 2: Tools and supplies ...................................................................................................

Step 3: Making the frame pieces ...............................................................................................

Step 4: Bolting the frame together ..............................................................................................

Step 5: Attaching the lead wires to the frame ......................................................................................

Step 6: Making the tensioning loop .............................................................................................

Step 7: Attaching the hot wire .................................................................................................

Step 8: Cross strings ........................................................................................................

Step 9: Applying tension .....................................................................................................

Step 10: Wiring up the transformer and dimmer switch ...............................................................................

Step 11: My crappy project box ................................................................................................

Step 12: Turning it on .......................................................................................................

Step 13: Quick and dirty sample cuts ............................................................................................

Step 14: Alternatives and expansion ideas ........................................................................................ 1

Step 15: Acknowledgements .................................................................................................. 1

Related Instructables ........................................................................................................ 1

Comments ................................................................................................................ 1
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Intro: Hot wire foam cutterCheap ($30+-) and easy to build hot wire foam cutter made from commonly available parts. Cuts styrofoam for surfboards, model plane wings, sculpture, model train otabletop wargame terrain, 3D sign letters, mold models for lost foam casting, etc.

5/17/2007, Important note! Please be sure to read the comments that other users have left below. There's a LOT of good info there. Check out the links that folks haposted and study what they've said here and you will be able to build a cutter thats suited to your budget and the materials you have access to. There are a lot ofalternatives listed or linked below for the frame, the transformer, the wire, the enclosure, and the heat control. Don't underestimate the power of comments! :)

Image Notes1. This loop of string is twisted to apply tension to the wire.2. There's a transformer in this box.3. Guitar string is used for the part that heats up.4. Temperature of the wire is controlled by this dimer switch.5. This criss-cross string arrangement keeps the rig somewhat square.

Step 1:PartsThe parts should be pretty easy to find.

1. 12 foot, 16 guage extension cord, about $2 at Home Depot

2. 2 wooden yard sticks from the Home Depot paint department, $.97 each

3. 4 #10-24 x 1.25" machine screws with nuts, $1 at Home Depot

4. 10 #10 washers, $1 at Home Depot

5. About 12 feet of strong, low-stretch string. I used 200 lb dacron kite line.

6. A single-pole dimmer switch. About $10 at Home Depot.

7. A 25 volt, 2 amp transformer, $10.49 from Radio Shack.

8. An electric guitar string, about .10 - .16 size. I think around $1? You can get these individually at a music store or you can use either of the 2 smallest strings from apackaged set. You should keep a spare handy because they can burn out or break from too much tension.

9. A length of two conductor electrical wire with a regular plug on the end. I salvaged mine, but you could use another extention cord if you like.

10. A piece of wooden dowel or stiff plastic rod about one foot long (not shown). I used a bamboo skewer.

11. Optional: 4 regular-thickness CD cases. These are for the box that holds the transformer and dimmer switch, but you would be much better off with something like "project box" from Radio Shack.


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Image Notes1. Transformer.2. Dimmer switch

3. Guitar string doesn't need to be exactly 12 guage

Step 2:Tools and suppliesYou might be able to do the whole project with just a knife, a drill and some tape, but it would be better to have the following:

1. Utility knife

2. Small wood saw

3. Drill with a bit slightly bigger than the #10 screws

4. Screwdriver

5. A couple of cable ties or twist ties

6. Electrical tape

7. Wide packaging tape

8. Nibbler

9. Multitester (you don't NEED one but it's a good safety check)

10. Wrench to match the nuts ( I didn't have my SAE wrenches handy so I used a 9mm)

11. Solder and soldering iron, if you like


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Image Notes1. I didn't end up using the solder.2. This little saw was cheap and it's super handy. I picked it up at an art store.3. Nibblers4. Hand drill lets you work while the significant other is sleeping

Step 3:Making the frame piecesCut one of the yardsticks in half. In each half, drill a hole in the middle and one about 1/2 inch from each end. One end of one half will already have a big hole in it, so won't have to drill that end.

One the remaining, uncut yardstick, drill a hole about 6 inches from the pre-existing hole (see photo), and another about 1 inch from the other end (not shown in thisphoto, but visible in later steps).

Image Notes1. Drill here2. This hole is already in the yardstick when you buy it3. Drill here4. Drill here5. Drill here6. This hole is in the yardstick when you buy it7. Drill here8. Drill here

Step 4:Bolting the frame togetherMake a sort of a big H shape out of your pieces by bolting them loosely together with the machine screws. Don't tighten the nuts down yet, just get 'em on there kindaloose.


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Image Notes1. Machine screw with washers and nut here2. Machine screw with washers and nut here

Step 5:Attaching the lead wires to the frameNow we're going to attach the wires that carry the 25V current to the cutting wire. We'll use two machine screws as terminal posts.

First, cut off each end of your 12 foot extension cord. Save the plug and outlets for future projects, if you like. Strip the insulation off the last inch of one end of one wirthe cord.

Insert a machine screw in the top of the right leg of your "big H" as shown in the photo. This is the leg that is on the other side of the H from the handle. Use one washon the screw head side and two on the nut side, as shown in the second picture below. Put the nut on, but don't tighten it down at all. You need room between thewashers so you can put your wire in there.

Bend the bare wire of the extension cord (the part you just strippeed) into a U shape, and hook it around the screw between the two washers. Now you can tighten dowthe nut. You can see what the final hook-up looks like close-up in the photos for step 7.

Starting the the end you just hooked up, pull the two conductors of the cord apart so that it's split for about 3 1/2 feet. Cut the unmounted side of the split to about onefoot. Strip the end of the one foot section and mount it to the other leg of the H the same way you hooked up the first wire. You'll see what I'm talking about here if youlook at the photo.

Use cable ties, twist ties or string to keep the wire close to the frame so it won't get in the way when you're using the tool.

Image Notes1. Cable tie or twist tie here to keep this wire out of the way when you're using thetool2. Machine screw and nut here with wire pinched between two washers3. For safety's sake, cut the plug off before you start.4. Machine screw and nut here with wire pinched between two washers5. Cable tie or twist tie here to keep this wire out of the way when you're using the

tool


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Step 6:Making the tensioning loopTake a piece of string about 6 feet long and thread it through each hole on the other ends of the legs, as shown. Tie it into a loop so that when you pull the legs apart tstring keeps the legs fairly parallel. So, the length of the loop when taut should be about the same as the distance between the bolts.

Image Notes1. The length of the loop should be the same as the distance between the bolts so that the legs are pretty much parallel when the loop is taut.2. The length of the loop should be the same as the distance between the bolts so that the legs are pretty much parallel when the loop is taut.

Step 7:Attaching the hot wireWhile you are hooking up your wire, try to avoid making any kinks it.

Your guitar string should have a sort of a bead (for lack of the proper name) on one end. Make a loop by feeding the other end through this bead. Hook the loop over oterminal and sinch it up. Keep the loop pretty close to the nut or there will be too much twisting force on the leg when the wire is tensioned. But also make sure it's not

touching the wood.

To hook up the other end of the wire, pull the frame legs towards each other so your string tensioning loop on the other end is taut. Wrap the end of the wire around thother terminal screw and twist it off. See the second photo. It might help to use pliers to keep good tension, but be careful not to pull too hard and break the wire.

If the wire is not super tight at this point, don't worry. It can be kind of floppy when plucked but should be pretty much straight when at rest. We'll add more tension late

Image Notes1. This "bead" comes attached to the guitar string.

Step 8:Cross stringsNow we need to install the mechanism that keeps the the legs square to the wire. Without this step your contraption will easily wobble into a parallelogram.

Tie a loop in one end of a 3 foot piece of str ing and hook it under the washer of one of the middle screws. See the photos. Thread the other end of the string though thopposite leg's hole. Square up the frame and tie off the string. Repeat with another string for the other side, but when you tie off the string at the top of the leg this timemake sure you have some tension. Now both of the criss-cross trings should be pretty tight, and there should be some slight tension on the wire too. It's ok if thetensioning loop is a little f loppy at this point. Now you can tighten down both of the middle screws with the wrench. No need to chrush anything, just make 'em tightenough to hold everything together.


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Step 9:Applying tensionInsert a ruler or dowel in the tesioning loop and twist it until it seems to be getting a little tight. Careful not to twist too much or you'll break the wire or the frame. Pluck twire and listen for a musical tone. If it sounds like "fwubababa" it needs more tension. If it sort of hums it should be enough to start. You can always add more if it seemtoo floppy when you try to make your cuts. Once you are happy with the tension, slide the ruler or dowel down so that the yardstick keeps it from unwinding (see thephoto).

You'll have to readjust the tension later, after the wire gets hot for the first time. Or maybe every time.

Image Notes1. The frame keeps the tensioner from unwinding, just like an old-fashioned saw frame.

Step 10:Wiring up the transformer and dimmer switchThis photo is your wiring diagram. The black two conductor wire on the left goes to the wall plug, and the brown one on the right goes to the hot wire.

This photo is just to show what connects where. You should of course use the wire nuts that came with the dimmer switch (esp on the 120V connections) and/or tape ensure that no bare wires touch each other, or you, or your pet. Be careful not to electrocute yourself or start a fire.


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Image Notes1. To hot wire2. to outlet

Step 11:My crappy project boxI really want to make a different box for this project, or buy a project box at Radio Shack. This box was made from 4 cd cases and some packaging tape. Two CD caseare openned to right angles, then pushed together to make 4 walls. The corners join up nicely. Run a strip of packaging tape down each corner. Now take the lid offanother case and tape it to the bottom of the 4 walls. The bottom will touch two opposite walls and there will be gaps under the other walls. Don't tape over the gaps, tprovide ventillation. Take the lid and plastic tray off a 4th cd case and throw them out. Nibble or cut a hole for the dimmer switch and tape it in. Then connect up all thewiring according to the diagram in the previous step, tape in the transformer, and tape the top on. In the photo, the box has been turned on it's side.

If you drop the box, the transformer will shatter it. Have I mentioned that you should use a dif ferent design for your enclosure?

I think this kind of box might have some other uses. Maybe you could make a version without a top and bottom, put some nice photos in it, and set a small plant pot inwith the plant sticking out?

Step 12:Turning it onSet the rig up somewhere where it won't catch the house on fire or melt the carpet if something is wired wrong, or if the wire overheats and breaks. Take a moment tolook over your creation and make sure all the wiring seems to make sense.

Turn the dimmer all the way down (counterclockwise).

With your fire extinguisher handy and your body away from the device, plug it in. Are the lights still on? Is the hotwire still whole? Sweet.

You can use your multimeter to see if there's any current between the terminals. There shouldn't be yet. SLOWLY (like 5 degrees per second) turn the dimmer up(clockwise) til the wire starts to quietly hum. With the wire I used that's about 1/4 or 1/3 of the full rotation. If the wire doesn't hum or heat up by the time the dimmer ishalfway up, turn the dimmer all the way down, push in til it clicks, and start again.

If you turn up the dimmer too fast, your wire may burn out before you realize that it's even hot.

Once you are sure everything's all set, grab the frame and try laying the wire on some scrap styrofoam. It should slice smoothly into the foam. You shouldn't have to pvery hard. Try playing with the dimmer switch setting to get the best cut. I've read that cutting slower and cooler makes a smoother cut.

The wire heats up and cools down within a second or two.

Next time you use the foam cutter, make sure nothing meltable or flammable is touching the wire when you plug it in, just in case the dimmer isn't off.


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Image Notes1. This loop of string is twisted to apply tension to the wire.2. There's a transformer in this box.3. Guitar string is used for the part that heats up.4. Temperature of the wire is controlled by this dimer switch.5. This criss-cross string arrangement keeps the rig somewhat square.

Step 13:Quick and dirty sample cutsHere are some freehand and template-cut shapes to give you an idea of what the tool does. These are really basic one-cut shapes. You can of course bevel edges, etwith a second pass.

Image Notes1. You can attach identical airfoil templates to each end of a slab of foam to cut awing.2. The templates are made of aluminum flashing and cut out with regular scissors

Image Notes1. Cats like nice warm styrofoam, and they love getting in the way.2. This is green floral foam, available at craft stores. More rigid thanstyrofoam.3. Sort of has a cliff face texture


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Step 14:Alternatives and expansion ideasSome people set up their cutters in sort of a bandsaw configuration, so that small pieces can be manipulated against a table for precise cutting. Those are generally nuseful for cutting wings or slicing chunks off larger pieces. See this page for an example:

http://www.hhhh.org/~joeboy/resources/hotwire_foam_cutter/hotwire_foam_cutter.html

The enclosure for the transformer and dimmer needs to be more rugged, and it should incorporate a fuse, maybe a power indicator, and maybe a modular connector tfacilitate attachment of larger or smaller cutters.

Instructables user Moofie suggested rigidifying the connection to one of the legs, perhaps simply by using a second bolt where the yardsticks overlap, to eliminate theneed for the criss-cross strings.

Step 15:AcknowledgementsI collected much of the raw info for this project from these two pages :

http://members.fortunecity.co.uk/slmohr/rcinterest2.htm

http://www.vatsaas.org/rtv/construction/hotwirecutter.aspx

Both pages have more good info. Check em out.

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Comments

50 comments Add Comment view all 117 commen

dazedonblu says: Jan 10, 2011. 11:54 AM REPThis is great I've now built an industrial quality one for a friend that owns a gun shop and he is now making custom fit gun cases out of those cheap 20.00cases by upping the charge for the "custom fi t",weapon case. Its kind of a rip off for him to do it but some people are too lazy and have too much money anwould rather just have it all done for them. But these are the plans I used and i t cost me ZERO dollars to build it because I used all scraps and things I hadaround my house these plans(http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.htm...=292695&page=1).The only problem I've had is figuring out just the right wire. I used an old #1 e guitar string. But i f anyone has any suggestions let me know. I would love toturn this into an automated CNC type system but it's in the drawing phase, and any input will be greatly appreciated. All I have is a regular PC an a free CAsoftware. Well thank you all and I hope these help(This is not design and I take no credit for it.)
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Wyoming says: Mar 24, 2009. 9:54 PM REPFor anyone looking for nichrome wire: I picked up a small "personal" type electric heater from Goodwill. The kind to look for has the coiled elements. Theylook like long springs. I imagine that hand-held hair (blow) driers would be a good source, also. Curling irons, maybe, although I have yet to tear into one tofind out... Once you get the element free from whatever ceramic affair it is wrapped around, unwind the spring between your thumb and index finger until yget the rough length of heater wire you need. This will get out most of the kinks. Thread the wire through a small hole in a scrap piece of wood (l ike lacing ashoe). Pull the wire back a forth several times, let the friction warm it a bit, and it will straighten out nicely. I got over 20 feet of wire from the first element.There is a second in the heater just like the first. Hope this helps those who have no easy source for resistance wire.

formman says: Dec 13, 2010. 9:56 AM REPI make floralforms for florist. Been doing this for 21 years. I have found that agreat place to get wire is the local welding supply house. .025 or .030 highgrade stainless steel (316 or 316L) (L is for low carbon) or Inconnel wire

works great. Plus, a good power supply is a small 2 (two) amp battery charger,or for longer wire operations a 40-200 amp will work.

waltbosz says: May 17, 2010. 1:47 PM REPIjust harvested some nichrome wire from a broken toaster. Ialso harvested two MickeyMouse branding iron from the same toaster. Note:do not buy

appliances from The Disney Store; they will set your house on fire.

mikesnyd says: Nov 1, 2010. 9:01 PM REPSo i made this wonderfull little contraption you have described. I have a light dimmer and a 24V 2A transformer. I initially had a #10 guitar string as my wirebut i broke it and was told to use this 80lbs test fishing line(its steel). Everything was running smooth until about 5minutes of operation. i was in my third cuwhen my transformer started to smoke. I have not been able to get the thing working again. So do i unwrap my transformer and re wrap it or just go getanother one? How may i put a safety catch in there so as to protect this from not happening again? And as for the thrid wire comming out of the secondaryside of the transformer.... do i ground that wire? your diagram had this left alone. Maybe i am just lucky enough to have a crap transformer. Have a happyhappy day eh. Sweet build man.

Audiyoda says: Nov 23, 2010. 7:53 PM REPOn almost all transformers the secondary lines can be configured for full voltage or half voltage. Generally the two same colored wires are full voltage (your case, 24V 2A - green and green), combining two different colored lines wi ll result in half the voltage (in your case, 12V 2A - green and yellow). Yowill always have that third line 'free' in a single pole application like this. I always tape it off so as to no cause a short.

*A Transformer doesn't require a ground - your work should still be grounded, but not the transformer.

mikesnyd says: Nov 1, 2010. 9:04 PM REPOH ya. and the secondary leads off the transformer are two greens and a green with a yellow line. The two greens are my source of the 24V 2A. and i thinkthe grn/ylw is ground but i am unsure. The schematic it came with didnt even tell me.

bricabracwizard says: Sep 28, 2010. 9:40 PM REPGreat hot wire! Thanks for giving me the idea of using templates for a better finish, I've always done freehand with not such a good result.

Evilthingamabober says: Nov 27, 2009. 8:39 PM REPUmm, I have a nibbler from Futurama, will that do?

giventake65 says: Sep 7, 2010. 4:01 AM REPwhat is the use of a nibbler in this project?

msmith9899 says: Aug 17, 2010. 7:48 PM REPHey flywoodkb, thanks for posting this. I made a hot knife based on your design for a foam project and it worked great! I featured your instructable on myweb show. If you would like to check it out, it's at http://www.tectherobot.com/shows/tecs-toolbox/foam-sculpting-hot-knife/ Thanks again

balisticjoe says: Aug 4, 2010. 6:06 PM REPIs this able to cut through foam-board? Not sure if it would make it through the paper like parts.
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carloriolo says: Jun 22, 2010. 11:11 PM REPHey Guys - I just wanted to send along a friendly link to my website http://hotwirefoamcutterinfo.com After reading this tutorial, I had ALOT of questions. Afa few months of research, I made my own website just to share :) Enjoy

LPittman says: Apr 8, 2010. 7:24 AM REPI desperately need to source one of these transformers, but I've been everywhere in New York and can't find anything close. Can someone help me out aswhere to get my hands on one?

guru_florida says: Jan 18, 2010. 9:38 AM REPThe green wire is typically earth ground, as in attach it to your metal project box ( if used.) The purpose of this wire is if any electrons are passed through it(i.e. if there is any voltage difference between the earth and this wire), it will trip the breaker! It's a safety feature of three prong electrical systems.

There are three wires used in AC, Hot, Neutral and Earth Ground. It sounds like you are using this green wire as if its the AC neutral wire when in fact it isEarth Ground. In DC, we talk about ground being the return path to our electrical circuit, but this ground is not the same as Earth Ground. In theU.S./Canada, AC neutral wire is usually white and black is hot. See the following link for AC color codes:http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_5/chpt_2/2.html

STBro says: Dec 7, 2009. 4:49 PM REPAll transformers are AC in and AC out. An autotransformer with a variable output is called a Variac or variable autotransformer.

If the device also converts AC to DC, then it includes a rectifier and can also include a transformer before rectification. It is also called a DC power supply.the DC power is clean and maintains voltage or current, then it is a regulated power supply or linear regulator.

You can use either AC or DC to heat a wire. The wire acts as a resistor.

If you use a light dimmer with a transformer, you should "derate" the transformer (by selecting the correct wire resistance) so no more than 70% of the ratepower flows thru it. Also, do not use the lowest setting on the dimmer. It will severely reduce the life of the transformer. A fan "dimmer" used to regulatefan speed is a different type of device and it is suitable for use with a transformer. You still need to make sure it has enough of a power rating.

If you feel any tingling when using electrical power equipment, the rig is unsafe and should not be used until the safety problem is found and corrected.

tb17mccoy says: Dec 5, 2009. 8:59 PM REPI did everything in your instructions except I made my frame out of 1/2 ' pvc but everything else I did as you instructed including the crappy plastic box. Icouldn't find a 120v 25 with only 2 amps so I used a 120 24v 40 va transformer and put a 3 amp fuse on the hot side between the dimmer switch and thetransformer. I tested it in my Garage and all worked well. I cut a test piece of foam cut like butter. Thanks you saved me about $ 140.00

steve cook says: Jan 22, 2008. 8:51 PM REPOK we just built ur home made hot wire cutter and I find for small projects it is great but the wire u used for cutting keeps breaking after short usage andshould we be yousing the ground wires ? ur instructions did not say what to do with them. but I must say it is a great do it ur self project it was easy to puttogether and ur pictures wear a really big help and ur prices for the parts wear almost on the penny and I defiantly would suggest to any one how is lookingfor a small project hot wire to visit ur page thanks so much

_-MacGyver-_says: Nov 13, 2009. 11:25 PM REP

dude, go to home depot, and get some 16 gauge wire, that stuff wont ever fall apart

charliey says: Jul 17, 2009. 9:34 AM REP7862 Tony ---- what's this "VARIABLE Electronic Transformer"? You don't mean a Variac, not at $20 Oz, for sure.Not sure I understand the "downlights"Would be obliged for further info.

dacarls says: Nov 6, 2009. 10:44 AM REPI used "Beadalon" wire from local sewing store. It is stainless steel 7-stranded wire (.0018 inches) that comes with a nylon coating that you burn off. Twire handled 50 volts AC perfectly.

7862Tony says: Nov 3, 2009. 11:04 PM REPHi go to bunnings and get yourself a downlight electronic transformer for $8.45. made by Nelson.Cheers 7862 Tony

nebhob says: May 11, 2009. 5:12 PM REPI blew a transformer because I cranked up the dimmer too far. Should I put the fuse between the dimmer and the transformer or the transformer and the boor would it matter? I ordered a 25v 5amp transformer, an automotive style fuse holder and 5 amp automotive style fuses (figure they are easier to find outhere in the boonies than other kinds of fuses).

7862Tony says: May 19, 2009. 5:19 PM REPHi firstly , a 25 volt tx (transformer ) is way too high.anything more than 15 volts is high. Do not use strings as they are not resistive enough and therefowill blow the fuse. Should be Nichcrome wire .about 28 swg is OK. Very importantly you will find that the light dimmer is very touchy. these dimmers aredesigned to work on light globes (resistive) Tx are inductive. there is no way one can get of these dimmers to work efficiently on a transformer. What yoneed is a variable electronic transformer used in downlights. these have 12volt variable output. get them from most hardware stores for less than $20Aussie. By far better and safer way of doing things.
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Rainh2o says: Oct 31, 2009. 6:41 PM REPThe foam cutter is resistive. Its a wire, not an inductor.

7862Tony says: Nov 3, 2009. 10:59 PM REPyes you are right the wire is resistive ,But i'm not talking about the wire ,i'm talking about the tx (transformer) an inductor. The downlight electrontransformer that i'm talking about comes from Bunnings. $8.45. if you open it you will find 15 turns on the toroid to give you 11.5 volts. remove athe secondary (15 turns) and put 3 turns instead. That will do it . put it back in its case before connecting it to the mains.

lsocoee says: Jul 13, 2009. 1:36 PM REPI think that a fan dimmer would work instead of a light dimmer.

Grimm123 says: Jul 22, 2009. 7:44 AM REPso i built one, but when its all hooked up, the power supply is only showing 2.7 volts and the wire barely warms up. do i need a smaller wire for it to work? ihave a 0.015" guitar string on i t now.

lasermaster3531 says: Aug 15, 2009. 4:33 PM REPturn the transformer around. make sure that the primary is connected to the dimmer switch, not the wire.

lasermaster3531 says: Aug 15, 2009. 4:36 PM REPI made something similar out of some galvanized picture wire unraveled so i just had one thin strand(this stuff works as well as nicrome wire inelectronic matches and such) and two wall wart transformers rated at 4.5 volts dc and 500 and 600 mA respectively. wired in a light switch and thewire between two screws. works a little slow, but it does work!

charmrus says: Aug 2, 2009. 1:56 PM REPre-check your hookup to the transformer...

littlemog92 says: Jul 15, 2009. 12:06 AM REPYa know if you had an extra nonusable soldering iron you could turn that into a handheld hotwire....

xadevox says: Jun 8, 2009. 2:43 PM REPcan i use a model train transformer?

izzdawg1323 says: Apr 22, 2009. 9:08 PM REP

so i got all the gear for the power supply. the only difference is the power cable has a green lead which im assuming is the ground. when i plug it all in it kilthe circut breaker in the house. i checked for a short circut, but everything seems fine. i made a bow thats 2.5 feet long and it has a 24guage wire. in eithercase im stumped.. any advise/ideas

Bennichen says: Apr 4, 2009. 12:23 PM REPThank you soo much Loved the instructions! Well done!

redriders180 says: Jan 12, 2009. 2:43 PM REPok i have 2 questions. the fi rst one is "what should i do with the ground wires? theres oone on the dimmer swith i bought and one on the transformer too. ai dont want to like blow something up so how can i safely discharge the voltage? also wond the wood burn if the wire is reaching those hot temps? pleaseanswer or mom and dad wont let me make one

larrymalone says: Jan 23, 2009. 8:25 AM REPInstead of using an extension cord. Buy a three pronged plug and wire at the hardware store. The third wire is the ground wire. Attach the ground wiresfrom the switch and transformer to the third wire. The wood won't burn, this has to do with the amount of heat generated. Enough to melt styrofoam, noenough to burn wood.

vangon47 says: Oct 16, 2008. 4:16 PM REPI just finished the wire cutter as described here. i cut a few pieces and it appears that the transformer got quite hot...real hot! now i when attempt to turn it othe fuse blows! help! ed

joinaqd says: Jan 8, 2009. 6:05 PM REPomg lol this guy is slow...why dont you just use 2 or 3 AA NI-CD batteries?it works great,plus its waaaaay easier than this!!one disadvantage is that thebattery heats up after 5-6 mins...but thats plenty of time to cut out some styrofoam sculptures,eh?
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ecrew says: Oct 23, 2008. 7:56 AM REPHowdy vangon47,(Ed) just my 2 cents here.... Although looking real cool inside a CDRom case/box, you may want to give your transformer somebreathing room. Try a larger container with a nice opening for airflow. I had same situation with a transformer I use to control 4 Axis stepper motors, thetransformer got so hot that the solder dislodged from one of the connectors and did not work any longer. I reattached the wire and now run with a smalfan blowing right on the unit and I have not had the problem ever since. Ed (also)

vangon47 says: Oct 23, 2008. 9:53 AM REPthanks ecrew, ill try it ed

Mikeldigra says: Dec 16, 2008. 12:14 AM REPDoes the wire need DC or AC to heat up?

mshan says: Dec 13, 2008. 11:03 PM REPI've got it all wired up but can't quite get enough heat out of it on the wire. As far as I can see my only difference is I couldn't get a 25 v 2 amp I could only ga 24 volt 150mA is this basically my problem? not much of an electrician.... Thanks

eng.alamin says: Nov 10, 2008. 8:47 AM REPhow many AMP and Volt is this transformer also did you have cutting lead for RC pane wings am new i alawyas missup :(

mikeythev says: Dec 8, 2008. 11:39 AM REPI measured the current and voltage on the hot wire loop. The 25.2V 2A transformer put out 7 volts and close to 1.5Amps. The current peaks and declinvery quickly because the wire heats up quite quickly. To add what was previously commented on, temperature affects resistance a lot.

Lt. Duct Tape says: Nov 16, 2008. 9:15 PM REPMy question is: Can you use this to cut through Camping-pad foam? I mean, clearly it'll cut through it, but will it create some sort of toxic fume or something

Replicator says: Oct 6, 2008. 10:32 PM REPONI Rules that was an awesome game :)

vangon47 says: Oct 1, 2008. 1:21 PM REPdoes any body know if the transformer on this wire cutter is A/C or D/C current. thanks ed

Scubabubba says: Oct 3, 2008. 8:21 PM REP

Input has to be A/C, output is probably also A/C as there was no mention of rectifiers. The hot wire is a simple resistance circuit so it will work off eitherA/C or D/C. If you've got a big wall wart that puts out D/C and is rated for enough amps (see example calculations in previous comments) you shouldcertainly be able to use it.

shimmeree says: Jan 28, 2008. 7:06 PM REPok, we figured out that part of the problem was the dimmer switch (we were using a 3 speed switch) but it works with a single speed dimmer switch (with th12 transformer) just need to figure out the perfect ni-chrome wire to use with it, we have 26gauge on it now but doesn't cut quite as fast as we would like.Any suggestions on what ni-chrome wire we should use? thinner or thicker?

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