himalaya - nepal - (in english)

7/30/2019 Himalaya - Nepal - (in english)

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Himalayan Peaks of

NEPAL(8,000 meters and above) Mt. Everest (8,848m)


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2009 Edition

N T B

T he in formati on cont ain ed in th is book has been out sourced from

every effort has been made to ensure accuracy and reli abili t y. H ow

and discrepancies, revisions and updates would be subsequently c

com ing issues.


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Introduction/ The Eight-thousanders

Mountains Over 8000m High 3

Mt.Everest 5

Mt.Kanchenjunga 7

Mt. Lhotse 9

Mt. Makalu 11

CONTENTS

Cholatse pe


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HIMALAYAN PEAKS O(8,000 meters and above)

In1950, a French expedition summitted the f8000m in height. It was Annapurna I, and althtempts had been made on Mt. Everest, the high

world, no expedition had succeeded until then

are known as the eight-thousanders and all fo

in Asia. Of the fourteen, Nepal has a big share

Mt. Everest (8,848m), Kanchenjunga (8,586mMakalu (8,463m), Cho Oyu (8201m), Dhaulagi

(8,163m), and Annapurna I (8,091m). These lo

of the Himalaya (The Abode of the Snows, H

dwelling place.) and form a natural boundary w

and Tibet/China in the north and between Ind

east. The highest peak outside Asia is the Acothe Andes in Peru, South America and the h


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Europe, Mt. Elbrus is significantly smaller,rising no higher than 5,643m.

It is believed the Himalaya was formed

around 50 million years ago and that,

in geological time is considered recent,

which is why this gigantic chain ofmountains is called the youngest in the

world. These mountains are still rising. It

is also known that the region occupied

by the Himalayan range today, was once

a shallow Tethys sea. Countless fossils of

mollusks are found even today provingthe point. Gigantic forces moved the

Indo-Australian Plate against the Eur-

asian continental Plate causing the land

to fold upwards creating a massive chain

of mountains over millions of years. The

Himalaya stretches 2,400 km across eastto west.

Four of the other eight-thousanders

are in Pakistan while one lies in China.

Eight-thousanders are the ultimate chal-

lenge for any mountaineer. They have

fascinated the avid climber who is always

on the lookout for fresh challenges. A

towering figure among all the climbers

is the Tyrolean champion mountaineer,

then astounded the w

eight-thousanders. Ins

man, others followed i

there are mountainee

of achieving this great

The zone above 80Death Zone as many

the thin cold air that

its limits. Doubts wer

conquest of Everest w

survive at such dizzyi

British had been attthe worlds highest p

1920s via Tibet. Man

attempt. Nepal had fir

to outsiders, hence al

the longer and more

via Tibet, but none weever, in the early 195

its doors to the outsid

was a mad rush to clim

A few expeditions we

year and it was only

Edmund Hillary andreached the top of Eve

first humans to do so

conquered the first

seemed to have set t


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Ever since the highest peak in the world wemployee of the Geological Survey of Indiatain has fascinated and drawn climbers from Known simply as Peak XV when the historic d

it was eventually named Everest by the then

Andrew Waugh in honour of his predecessor,

The Tibetans and Sherpas (who lived close

knew it as Chhomolungma and the Nepalese

gave it the name Sagarmatha. The early climb

duo, George Mallory and Andrew Irvine at

from the Tibetan side which lies on the north

Mt.Everest (8,848m, Sagarma

in Nepali): The highest moun

in the world

Latitude: 27 59 17 N, Longitude: 86 55 31 E


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The first British Everest Reconnaissance

Expedition to the mountain was led by

Lt. Colonel Charles Howard-Bury and

George Mallory was part of the team.

The northern and eastern reaches of

the mountain were explored and on

24th September 1921, Guy Bullock alongwith Mallory became the first climbers

to reach a height of 7000m on Everest.

They had climbed to the north Col of

the mountain establishing the northern

route. Nepal being completely cut off

from the rest of the world (except for afew invited guests), no attempts could be

made from the south. In Tibet, the Dalai

Lama of the time had given permission to

the foreigners to climb even though he

wondered why they wanted to do such a

senseless thing. To Asians it made no senseat all; risking ones life to reach the top of

a mountain that is covered in snow under

bitterly cold conditions.

Mt. Everest lies in the Khumbu region

of Nepal on the northern borderwith Tibet and also falls within the

Sagarmatha National Park. After many

attempts had been made on the moun-

tain, it was Tenzing Norgay and Edmund

picture, which graceof newspapers aroun

a great moment in hi

the two climbers bu

general. Before the

had been much spec

were raised if man such great altitudes. T

Tenzing had almost

with Swiss climber R

but it was the Briti

by John Hunt that

honours. Way back inIrvine had disappeare

last seen 240m below

though Mallorys we

was found high up o

1999, nobody is rea

made it to the summway up.

Since 1953, many re

broken and many she

more than ten times

holder Apa Sherpa ha

an astounding eight

today climb to set a n

the speed record. Ot

to become the young


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There was a time when Mt. Kanchenjunga whighest mountain in the world. This was bdiscovery made by the Chief Computer (todayby machines) who pointed out that Peak XV

than Peak IX, Kanchenjunga. Later it became a

IX was actually only the third highest moun

and K2 (Karakoram, Pakistan). It lies 128 km e

western face lies in Nepal while the other sid

of Sikkim, India. Kanchenjunga or Kangchenz

means Five treasures of the Great Snows as

five prominent peaks. They are Kanchenjung

Yalung Kang (8,505m), Kanchenjunga West

Twin Peaks (both 8,476m). Unlike most of the

peaks, this mountain lies north to south and

Kanchenjunga (8,586m):

The third highest mountain

in the world



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glacier drains into the Tamur River which

is a tributary of the Koshi.

Climbing Kanchenjunga had been contem-

plated by many as far back as in 1882, yet no

attempt was made until 1905. The first to go

up the Yalung glacier was Alaister Crowleybut he lost four men on the mountain; a

Lieutenant Pache and three porters. For

fifteen years, no one dared another attempt.

In 1929, an American climber named Francis

Farmer left behind his porters and climbed

up the south face but was never seen again.Then Paul Bauer led a Bavarian expedition

up the mountain later in the same year and

reached the altitude of 7,700m. Following an

unsuccessful attempt by Gunther Dyhren-

furth in 1930, Bauer made a second attempt

in 1931. Hans Hartman and Dr. Karl Wienreached 7,990m before they were forced

to turn back.

With the outbreak of the Second World-

War, there was no climbing in the Himalayas.

The next attempt was

Lewis and George Frey

an easier route to the

returned two years late

but met with no succes

again in 1954 with a ne

but luck was not on hi

Fifty years after the

1955, a British expedit

Charles Evans, who h

of the successful exp

two years earlier. TwBand and Joe Brown fi

summit of this difficu

the fact that the Sikk

the mountain very sa

teers refrained from s

the top. They stoppebelow the summit on

Kanchenjunga, the thir

in the world had bee

first Nepali to climb

Phurba Sherpa on 14t


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Mt. Lhotse is connected to Everest via ththe fourth highest mountain in the worlis 8,516 m while Lhotse Middle (East) is 8,414

Shar is 8,383 metres. Very often, climbers ma

Everest, go up the Lhotse to acclimatize. In faleading to Everest starts up the northwest face

cuts across to the more famous mountain.

An early attempt on Lhotse was made by the

Himalayan Expedition. It was led by Norman

also included two Austrians, Erwin Schneidas well as two Swiss climbers, Bruno Spirig a

It was also the first expedition in the Evere

Americans:Fred Beckey, George Bell, and R

Lhotse (8,516m): the fourthhighest mountain in the

world



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They climbed up the West Cwm and

the northwest face of Lhotse reaching

an altitude of 8,100 metres. They were

beaten back by unexpectedly strong

wind and cold temperatures.

Working under cartographer Schneiders

direction, they completed the first map

of the Everest area. They also made sev-

eral short films on local cultural topics.

B id i i Lh h

1956, a Swiss team o

Fritz Luchsinger from

Everest/Lhotse Exped

summit becoming the

so. Lhotse Shar was s

May by Zepp Maier a

Austria. It was some t

Middle was climbed, a

remained the highest

point on Earth. It was

2001 h b

Mt. Amadablam-way to Ev


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Mt.Makalu is 20 km east of Everest in the Kis the fifth highest moutain in the worldin the Makalu Barun National Park and is kno

pyramid shape with four sharp ridges. North o

Tibet and it has two notable subsidiary peaks

Makalu II, 7,678 m lies north-northwest of the

other is Chomo Lonzo which lies just north o

The first attempt on Makalu was made by a

led by William Siri in the spring of 1954. Th

southeast ridge but were turned back at 7,10

barrage of storms. In the fall of 1954, a Fren

expedition made the first ascent of the s

Makalu (8,463m): The fifth

highest mountain in the

world



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Kangchungtse on 22nd October. They

were Jean Franco, Gyaltsen Norbu and

Pa Norbu.

Makalu was first climbed on 15th May

1955 by Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy,

members of a French Expedition led byJean Franco. The very next day, Franco,

G. Magnone and Gyaltsen Norbu also

summitted followed by Bouvier, S.

Coupe, Leroux and A. Vialatte on the

17th. The expedition climbed from the

north face and northeast ridge via thesaddle between Makalu and Kangchun-

gtse which subsequently became the

standard route.

The first ascent of the southeast ridge

was made by Y. Ozaki and A. Tanaka froma Japanese expedition on 23rd May 1970.

An American team had tried before them

and failed. The very teroute was climbed in M

men B. Mellet and Y.

one of the harder eigh

is considered one of

mountains in the wo

mountain has challenand knife while the f

summit pyramid invo

climbing. In 2006, a F

named Jean-Christop

peared on Makalu wh

the first winter ascenthe only Nepalese 8,

has yet to be climbed

ditions. The first Nep

was Ang Chepal Sherp

Note: Most of the she

with the expeditions considered Indian nat

been living in India.


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Unlike other attempts, the successful expehad its origins in very simple circumstanceHerbert Tichy along with sherpas Adjiba and Pa

around a campfire on a mountain and enjoyinPasang suddenly asked, Next year, Cho Oyu

nod and repeat, Cho Oyu. Thus it was decid

tain would be attempted in 1954. In the prev

Nanga Parbat and Annapurna among the other

had been climbed.

Cho Oyu lies 20 km west of Everest, at the bor

and Nepal. In Tibetan, Cho Oyu means Tu

The first attempt on this mountain was mad

supported by the Joint Himalayan Committe

Cho Oyu (8201m): The sixth

highest mountain in the

world



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as preparation for an attempt on MountEverest the following year. With Eric

Shipton as team leader, the expediton

also included Edmund Hillary, George

Lowe, Charles Evans and Tom Bourdilon,

but technical difficulties at an ice cliff

above 6,650m forced them to give upthe climb. It was estimated that it would

take two weeks to get everyone across

and it would also mean entering Tibetan

territory which it is believed Shipton was

unwilling to do.

It was Dyhrenfurth and Shipton who first

came up with measurements that put

Cho Oyu sixth on the list of the highest

mountains in the world.

The Austrian expedition led by HerbertTichy arrived in Birgunj in 1954 via India

and flew into Kathmandu by means of

an Indian airliner of the time. Once they

were packed and ready, they moved to

Bhaktapur from where the long trek

to the mountain woand Hillary had also

to Everest from this

expedition has its pec

was no exception. The

foreign climbers and

the team.

Cho Oyu was finally

October 1954 via th

by Tichy, Joseph Jchle

Lama. Where as Ship

been stopped by an imountain, the Austr

tackle the problem in

up towards the summ

remark had led to a

tion. This was the fifth

to have been climbedsidered the easiest to

eight-thousanders an

most popular. The first

climb the peak was A

29th April 1987.


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The Dhaulagiri massif lies northwest of Pothis mountain was at first considered imformidable and the French expedition that

1950 and successfully climbed Annapurna I, d

peak a second thought. Captain William Webb

was the first European to set eyes on Mt. D

calibrated the height of the mountain, he wa

then, the Andes in South America were con

chain of mountains in the world. The news of

left the rest of the world incredulous. For ma

revelation, Dhaulagiri was thought to be the

in the world.

Dhaulagiri (8,167m): The

seventh highest mountain in

the world

Latitude: 28 4146

N, Longitude: 83 29

43

E


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The White Mountain as it was known

to foreigners, was one of the peaks that

could not be conquered during the Gold-

en Decade. Although numerous attemptswere made throughout the 1950s, none

were successful. A string of expeditions

arrived in Nepal: the Argentineans tried

their luck in 1954. A Swiss-German team

gave it a shot in 1955, and were followed

by the Argentineans making a bid in 1956

once again, but with no better luck. In

1958, the Swiss were back and returned

yet again without reaching the summit.

Then it was the turn of the Austrians who

expedition met with c

and was compounded

Yeti. The pilot and re

caped unhurt and walkto Pokhara from the

expedition persevered

proved to be a lucky

taineers as it was a bri

practically no wind blo

of the expedition reac

become the first to clim

were Kurt Diemberge

Sherpa, Ernst Forrer, Al

Diener and Nima Dorj

Hig


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Mt. Manaslu lies on the border between Gdistricts in northern Nepal and 64 km The Manaslu region encompasses the sub-t

the Himalaya to the arid Trans-Himalayan hig

ing Tibet. Manaslu is derived from the Sanskrit

translates as Mountain of the Spirit.

Out of the fourteen eight-thousanders, twelve

expeditions from the west while only two wer

Asians. Shisha Pangma (eight-thousander) whic

first climbed by the Chinese while Manaslu w

by a Japanese expedition.

Manaslu (8,163m) The

eighth highest mountain in

the world

Latitude: 28 3258

N, Longitude: 84 33

43

E


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The famous Manaslu trekking route goesaround the Manaslu massif over the pass

down to Annapurna. The trekking trail

follows the classic salt-trade route along

the Budhi Gandaki river.

The first Japanese Manaslu Recon-naissance Expedition ventured up the

mountain in 1952 when the mountain

was still a virgin peak. Following this, the

first climbing expedition in 1953, went up

the river Budi Gandakis course to reach

the mountain. They were able to climbup to 7,750 m before turning back. The

expedition that came after them in 1954

was not so fortunate. Inhabitants of Samu

village which lay on their route denied

them access to the mountain believing

they would bring them misfortune. Themountain they said was sacred to them.

As a result, the climbers were forced to

turn to Ganesh Himal instead.

After the Nepalese Government man-

aged to pacify the villagers of Samu

village, an advance party for the next

expedition was able to make their way

up towards the mountain. The third Japa-

nese Manaslu Expedition led by veteran

comprised Katsuro Oshi, Dr. Hirokichi Tat

Chitani, Kichiro Kat

Kiroyoshi Otsuka, Dr

Yuichi Matsuda, Mino

kayoshi Yoda accomp

Norbu as sherpa sard

This expedition had u

one of which was an

which was set up in

from the climbers. F

was pumped to all thetheir respective tents

the dedication of th

tor, who had to rem

changing oxygen cand

a half hours.

On 9th May 1956, Ima

reached the summit o

ing the first to do so

Ganesh Himal, Anna

and Machhapuchhare

clouds. Following them

also climbed to the t

The Japanese team w

expedition to make a

eight-thousander. The


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The Annapurna range is a series of peaks strthe highest point, Mt. Annapurna I, beingsummit in the world. It lies east of a great gor

Himalaya by the Kali Gandaki River, which seother large massif, the Dhaulagiri. Dhaulagiri

Annapurna I. In Sanskrit Annapurna literally m

but is normally taken to mean Goddess of Ha

Goddess of fertility is also known as Annapurn

lies within the Annapurna Conservation Area

Annapurna I is the main peak of this chain o

includes three other peaks that share its name. T

II (7.937m), Annapurna III (7,555m) and Annapu

Unlike other giants, the Annapurna I barely sta

hidden by other peaks in front of it.

Annapurna I (8091m): The

tenth highest mountain in

the world

Latitude: 27 51'42

N, Longitude: 86 51

50

E


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The conquest of Annapurna I was remark-able in many ways. For a start, the French

climbers spent weeks just trying to locate

the mountain as it was still unexplored.

It was the first eight-thousander to be

climbed and even more remarkable was

the fact that they did it on their first at-tempt. This was highly unusual as on most

mountains of this size, many exploratory

teams went up to study the possible

routes up to the summit. Only after

several expeditions had tried and failed

would one eventually succeed.

When Annapurna I was climbed, Nepal

was still under Rana rule and the country

was strictly closed to outsiders. The climb

made Maurice Herzog, the expedition

leader very famous, this being the firsteight-thousander to be climbed. No expe-

ditions had taken to the mountains from

Nepal before this team and so sherpas

had to be hired from Darjeeling from

where many expeditions were launched

via Tibet. Even beforein Nepal, they had giv

options: Climb Dhaula

Finding the former to

they turned their atte

As we have seen overing history, the best ti

Himalaya is May. How

Herzog and his team w

the summit it was the

Having received news

was to begin from 5tracing against time and

just two days before th

for the worse. Herzog

reached the top on 3r

face. The two summi

price for the climb, lo

some fingers to frostb

not climb any major

historic climb. The fi

to summit this peak w

Sherpa on 13th Octo


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Some important Mountaineering Rules Regulations

All mountaineering expeditions intending to climb an eight-thous

mountain have to obtain permission from the Ministry of Tourism

Once a permit has been obtained, the expedition has to strictly fo

the regulation as prescribed in the permit issued by the Governm

A mountaineering expedition team which has obtained a permit f

shall have to include a Liaison Officer appointed by the Governm

An expedition team has to deposit garbage deposit fee before obtaining

varies according to mountains ranging from US$ 500 to US$ 4000,

after the expedition team shows the clearance evidence of the garba

Royalty for Mountaineering Expeditions

Notice -1:

Schedule-4(Relating to sub rule 1of Rule 4)

(a) Name of Peak: Mt. Everest (Sagarmatha) 8,848m.

Route: Normal route (South East Ridge)

Member of the

mountaineering

expedition

Mountaineering royalty (In US $)

Spring season Autumn season Winseaso

One member 25,000/- 12,500/- 6,25

Two member 40,000/- 20,000/- 10,0


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Member of the

mountaineering

expedition


Spring season Autumn season W

S

One member 15,000/- 7,500/- 3Two member 21,000/- 10,500/- 5

Three member 27,000/- 13,500/- 6

Four member 33,000/- 17,500/- 8

Five member 39,000/- 19,500/- 9

Six member 45,000/- 22,500/-

Seven member 50,000/- 25,000/-

P e r ad d i t i o n a l

member (An ex-

pedition team may

have maximum of

15 members)

10,000/- 5,000/- 2

Member of the

mountaineering

expedition



S

(b) Name of Peak: Mt. Everest (Sagarmatha) 8848mRoute: Except normal route

(c) Name of Peak: Other mountains having more than 8,0

Mt. Everest)


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Member of the

mountaineering

expedition



SOne member 2,000/- 1,000/- 5

Two member 2,400/- 1,200/- 6

Three member 2,800/- 1,400/- 7

Four member 3,200/- 1,600/- 8

Five member 3,600/- 1,800/- 9

Six member 3,800/- 1,900/- 9

Seven member 4,000/- 2,000/- 1

(d) Name of Peak: Mountains having 7501-7999m height.

Seven member 10,000/- 5,000/- 2

P e r ad d i t i o n a lmember (An ex-

pedition team may

have maximum of

15 members)

1,500/- 1,000/- 5

Member of the

mountaineering

expedition



S

s


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Member of the

mountaineering

expedition



S

One member 1,500/- 750/- 3

Two member 1,800/- 900/- 4

Three member 2,100/- 1,050/- 5

Four member 2,400/- 1,200/- 6

Five member 2,600/- 1,300/- 6

Six member 2,800/- 1,400/- 7

Seven member 3,000/- 1,500/- 7

P e r ad d i t i o n a l

member (An ex-

pedition team may

have maximum of

15 members)

400/- 250/- 1

Member of the

mountaineering

expedition



S

One member 1,000/- 500/- 2

Two member 1,200/- 600/- 3

Three member 1,400/- 700/- 3

(f) Name of Peak: Mountains having 6501-6999m height.(

dablam)

(e) Name of Peak: Mountains having 7000-7500m height


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Member of the moun-

taineering expedition

Mountaineering royalty (In US

Spring and Autumn

season

Winter

season

One member 1,000/- 500/-

Two member 1,200/- 600/-

Three member 1,400/- 700/-

Four member 1,600/- 800/-

Five member 1,800/- 900/-

Six Member 1,900/- 950/-

Seven member 2,000/- 1,000/-

Per additional member

(An expedition team may

have maximum of 15

members)

300/- 200/-

(g) Name of Peak: Mt. Amadablam(6812m.)

Member of the

mountaineering

expedition



S

One member 400/- 200/- 1

Two member 500/- 250/- 1

Three member 600/- 300/- 1

(h) Name of Peak: Mountains having less than 6500m heig


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Note: Above revised royalty will be effec-tive from 2065/04/01 (16th July, 2008).

Notice -2:

The mountaineering royalty has been

totally waived to those mountains situ-ated on mid western and Far western

development regions of Nepal for coming

five years.

Notice -3

According to the

2065/02/22B.S.) made

of Nepal (Secretary L

of the season is hereb

Q Spring ( March, ApQ Summer ( June, Ju

Q Autumn ( Septemb

vember)

Q Winter ( Decembe

ary)


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www.welcomenepal.com

Nepal Tourism Board

Nepal Tourism BoardBhrikuti Mandap Kathmandu, Nepal

P. O. Box: 11018Fax: 977-1-4256910

Tel: 977-1-4256909, 4256229E-mail: in fo@nt b.org.np

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